Go with the Flow PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier’S Spring Collection for Hermès Was Full of Beautiful Basics, Including Suede Baseball Jackets and Polished Pantsuits

Home , Annie Leibovitz, Fully fashioned knitting, Shalom Harlow, Sita Murt

COACH NET UP 34%/2 WAL-MART HEADS BACK TO BASICS/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 25, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear Go With The Flow PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring collection for Hermès was full of beautiful basics, including suede baseball jackets and polished pantsuits. Here, some of them: a ﬂ owing lace dress with a ﬁ chu neck, worn under a tailored vest and over a patchwork number.

Bound for New York: Nordstrom in Drive To Open City Flagship

By David Moin NEW YORK — Nordstrom is getting more serious about establishing a store in Manhattan as part of the chain’s program to elevate its fashion profile and sustain expansion. The $7.7 billion chain is being bombarded by brokers and developers pushing properties and has checked out some high-profile locations, although nothing has been signed. Nordstrom is looking for a location of 180,000 to 250,000 square feet. “Almost every week, someone has a different site or plan for us,” said Pete Nordstrom, president of merchandising See Nordstrom, Page 12 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 WWD.COM Coach Net Soars 34.2% in Quarter WWDWEDNESDAY By Vicki M. Young Sportswear hile Coach Inc.’s first-quarter results showed an ac- FASHION W Tommy Hilfi ger hit on campus classics for spring, Ann Taylor Loft went celeration of the company’s performance in its U.S. full-price 4 Americana, Ann Taylor kept on career and Calvin Klein hit the archives. business, top-line growth in Japan was robust as the handbag GENERAL and accessories’ maker contin- Nordstrom executives are getting serious about establishing a store in ued to gain market share. Manhattan to elevate its luxury appeal and propel its national expansion. The company said net income 1 for the three months ended Sept. Coach’s fi rst-quarter results showed gains in U.S. full-price business and 30 rose 34.2 percent to $125.6 mil- 2 strong sales growth in Japan, as it continued to increase market share. lion, or 34 cents a diluted share, Tom Ford unveiled his fi rst Web site featuring images of his eyewear and from $93.6 million, or 24 cents, in information on his new fragrance, Tom Ford Black Orchid. the same year-ago quarter. The 2 analyst consensus estimate had MAINSTREAM: Vendors and retailers at a panel discussion said the biggest Coach pegged to earn 31 cents. 6 challenge in apparel today is how to increase speed to market. Sales rose 23.4 percent to $553.9 BEAUTY: Global beauty giant L’Oréal said Tuesday it has acquired million from $449 million. French organic beauty manufacturer Laboratoire Sanofl ore. “Clearly there were two driv- 8 ers of Coach’s growth. First, the WEST: Loose and easy best describes the looks and mood that prevailed continued entry of new con- 13 at the Los Angeles contemporary fashion market that ended Tuesday. sumers to the franchise, many new stores, midsingle-digit retail Mike Tucci, president of North Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-19 of whom are trading up to the comps and market expansions. American Retail Division, told Coach brand, and second, exist- Indirect sales rose 11 percent to analysts that the company has To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. ing consumers with whom Coach $150 million from $134 million. 10 key item concepts for holiday. [email protected], using the individual’s name. is gaining a greater share of their The ceo said the company has This includes satchels in a range growing accessory wardrobe,” been emphasizing new “usage of sizes and fabrications ranging WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. said Lew Frankfort, chairman occasions” for its products such from $328 to $698. VOLUME 192, NO. 87. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one and chief executive offi cer, dur- as weekend, through Signature The company provided sec- additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. ing a conference call to Wall Stripe and the more sophisticat- ond-quarter guidance of 56 PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: Street analysts. ed Legacy to heighten Coach’s cents, one cent above consensus S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Wall Street applauded Coach’s cachet with its top-tier custom- estimate of 55 cents, and pro- Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- results by driving shares up. Trad- ers. The company plans to drive jected that it will have full-year dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine ing volume Tuesday was heavy at growth in Japan via the opening earnings per share of $1.63 for Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. 14 million shares, which is more of new retail locations, hoping fi scal 2007, compared with the Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable than 4 times the stock’s average eventually to have at least 180 consensus estimate of $1.58. Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS of 3.2 million shares. During in- Coach stores in Japan and a mar- Jennifer Black, of Jennifer CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR traday trading, the stock hit a 52- ket share of 15 percent in a few Black & Associates, wrote in a DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four week high of $39.40, before clos- years from last year’s 9 percent. research note, “We remain ex- weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. ing at $39.21, up 7.93 percent. Elsewhere overseas, the com- tremely positive on this company. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. On the conference call, Frank- pany during the quarter opened We feel Coach is particularly well First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, fort said direct-to-consumer fi ve new Coach stores, including positioned heading into the all and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To sales rose 29 percent to $404 mil- its fi rst each in Shenzhen, China important holiday season as well subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make lion from $315 million last year. and the United Arab Emirates. as the balance of 2007.” our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would On a same-store basis, comps Frankfort said the company Black went on to say that she interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. for U.S. stores rose 21.4 percent, plans to open at least 10 loca- continues to “fi nd the company’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- with retail stores up 16 percent tions in the major cities on the product fantastic, and believes SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- and factory stores up 27.1 per- Mainland of China during the consumers will continue to be ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED cent. In Japan, sales rose 21 next two years, while also ex- compelled to purchase Coach percent in constant currency, or panding its retail store base in as evidenced by sales of their 16 percent in dollars, driven by Hong Kong. $10,000 crocodile purses.” In Brief ● SORONA IN CHINA: DuPont has partnered with China’s Tom Ford Launches Web Site Zhangjiagang Glory Chemical Industry Co. to produce and distribute the company’s Sorona stretch fiber throughout Asia. By Courtney Colavita any interest in returning to the Groundbreaking on a new facility in China to produce Sorona Tom Ford women’s clothing fray. — the first commercial manufacturing facility for the fiber in MILAN — Tom Ford is now only The stand-alone Tom Ford Asia — took place in May and is expected to begin producing a click away. beauty brand, which includes hair during the fourth quarter. The plant will be capable of produc- The American designer on perfume, cleansing oils and hy- ing 66 million pounds of Sorona a year. Terms of the partner- Tuesday unveiled his fi rst Web drating emulsion, is set to launch ship were not disclosed. site, which features evocative next month with Black Orchid (in- images of his eyewear, as well dustry sources estimate it could ● DIESEL CANADA BOUND: Diesel has entered into a joint ven- as information on his new fra- generate $40 million at retail glob- ture with Clothesline Apparel to create its newest subsidiary, grance, Tom Ford Black Orchid, ally in its fi rst year). This spring, Diesel Canada. Clothesline, based in Montreal, has been the and the impending launch of his Ford will simultaneously launch exclusive distributor for Diesel for 20 years. Joelle Adler, who men’s wear collection, now slat- 12 unisex scents and install per- founded Clothesline with her late husband, Lou, in 1987, has ed for April 2007. fumery store-in-stores in his up- been appointed president of Diesel Canada. Financial terms of “I think it is important to al- coming retail doors. His men’s the partnership were not disclosed. ways address and use the prima- line, which was originally due out ry media of one’s time and we all in November, is now slated to be ● LONDON FOG HEADS NORTH: Iconix Brand Group Inc. on have to face the fact that there is introduced in April, when Ford’s Tuesday said it signed an exclusive direct license agreement no more powerful media than the fi rst directly owned store opens for its London Fog brand with Hudson’s Bay Co. HBC, the old- Internet,” said Ford. “It is how on Madison Avenue in New York. est diversified general merchandise retailer in Canada, en- most of us communicate, get our Following the New York shop, tered into a multiyear license to manufacture and distribute news, entertain ourselves, and in- select distribution will begin London Fog apparel, accessories and lifestyle products in its creasingly shop.” for spring 2008, and additional retail stores, the Bay and Zellers. The Bay, with 98 locations Produced by Web design- Tom Ford stores are planned for across Canada, will carry the London Fog brand, while Zellers, ers Create the Group, the site is London, Milan, Hong Kong, Tokyo with 283 locations, will carry a London Fog diffusion line. done in Ford’s signature tones and Los Angeles over the next of brown and black and will be two to three years. The men’s ● ADIDAS MOVES: Adidas AG said Tuesday it is selling its rolled out in multiple stages. The line is expected to generate more Greg Norman Collection apparel business to Albany, Ga.-based Web site, tomford.com, will even- than $100 million in sales in the MacGregor Golf Co. Expected to be completed by the end of the tually house an online Tom Ford fi rst three to fi ve years. year, the transaction excludes existing GNC-related retail out- boutique. Ford, who signed licens- let operations. The German activewear firm said the New York- In addition to current sections, ing deals with Marcolin, Estée based Greg Norman Collection didn’t fit its global golf strategy. which include a lengthy Ford bi- Lauder and Ermenegildo Zegna, Financial details were not disclosed. In other news, Adidas ography, editorial style images of has been coming to Milan with unveils its “mi Innovation Center” today in its new Paris store. lounging women in retro frames more frequency to prepare the With innovation as the new store concept’s driving principle, and product stills, pages will be launch of his luxury men’s collec- its focal point is a large-scale futuristic computer on which cus- added to refl ect growing product tion. Produced by Zegna, the line tomers can customize their own “mi Adidas.” Adidas plans to categories under the Tom Ford will contain both ready-to-wear open additional centers in major metropolitan areas around label, namely men’s wear, since and made-to-measure clothes, the world over the next few years. the Texan has repeatedly denied furnishings and leather goods. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 3 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Refi ning Its Approach

By Sharon Edelson Metro 7 is A look from doing well George ME. IN SOME WAYS, WAL-MART IS RETURNING TO ITS MEAT-AND-POTATOES ROOTS. in 600 Speaking Tuesday to an audience of analysts at the company’s annual two-day pre- stores. sentation to Wall Street, H. Lee Scott Jr., president and chief executive offi cer of Wal- Mart Stores Inc., said the company would go back to basics across several categories, including apparel. Scott also vowed to maintain price leadership, saying, “The $4 generic prescription program is one of the coolest things we’ve done in a long time. That’s the direction of where we’re going. It’s a rational approach to disrupting the market. It could happen in toys. In 2003, we had the most aggressive toy program. You’ll see a very aggressive toy department at Wal-Mart this year.” The company is reinvigorating its price rollback program, which will be heralded in stores with banners and signs with the retailer’s signature yellow smiley faces. Wal-Mart believes rollbacks draw consumers to stores. There are 10,000 rollbacks at Wal-Mart stores and more are on the horizon. One of the biggest opportunities, according to Scott, is in basics in apparel and domestic products. He pointed out that 675 million pairs of white socks were sold at Wal-Mart’s U.S. stores last year. “Some of the numbers we generate are absolutely amazing,” he said. But Wal-Mart’s apparel performance has been less than stellar. “We have to get better at fashion basics, not what I would call high fashion,” Scott said. “Claire, if you disagree, stand up,” he said, referring to Claire Watts, Wal-Mart’s executive vice president in charge of product development for apparel and home. “There’s a tremendous opportunity without stepping out to the next level, which is so dangerous for anyone to get into unless you’re a high fashion company.” During a question-and-answer session, Scott was asked whether the weakness seen in apparel during the last few months could be fi xed by tweaking the current strategy or whether the company got too far ahead of what its customers wanted. “I think what happened is we didn’t follow our strategy,” Scott said, comparing Wal-Mart’s apparel model to a pyramid where the base consists of basics, the middle is fashion basics and the top is fashion. “What we did is we overloaded the fashion part. We didn’t make it a pyramid, but more of an hourglass.” Nor does Scott think Wal-Mart will ever be the place for fashion with a capital F. “The execution moved too far too fast,” he said, referring to the plethora of trends referenced in Metro 7 and George ME by Mark Eisen. “I don’t mean that we should get there later. We should never be out of balance at the top. That’s not who we are and that’s not where the money is to be made. We need to have a little bit [of fashion] at stand Metro 7 and why it does so well in [a certain number of] stores and doesn’t do so the top so our customers know we have a sense of what’s happening out there in the well when you expand it by analyzing this information.” world. If we try to do more at the top, we’re not going to do well.” Wal-Mart has even created a new position with the touchy-feely title of senior vice Karen Stuckey, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of wom- president of customer experience, whose role sounds similar to an ombudsman: rep- en’s wear and jewelry, “is right on for spring,” Scott told the analysts. “You’ll see resent consumers at the store level and develop campaigns to communicate ideas improvements for spring and more improvements for summer.” about Wal-Mart’s reputation, brand equity, price leadership and value. While much has been made about Wal-Mart’s quest for more sophisticated shop- While Wal-Mart may be getting back in touch with its inner rural self, there’s no pers and those with higher incomes, Scott returned to the theme of Wal-Mart’s roots. doubt its technology remains as sophisticated as that of any retailer. In the supply “We’re continuing to remind people we don’t want to lose our current base of cus- chain, Wal-Mart is using a new customer responsive network, or CRNet, which allows tomers,” he said. “We want to create products that allow people to more fully shop high-volume consumables to be delivered more frequently on one truck. This provides our stores. [Customer segmentation] was the missing element. Before, we would put better delivery and fl ow and will improve in-stock and turns. The company is using merchandise in a store. It would work and we’d expand it to all stores. You can under- quick response for markdowns in its “store of the community” program, which tailors assortments to the needs of local units. “This company is more sophisticated and better able to handle itself than it ever was in its history,” Scott said. Wal-Mart Launches Revamped Web Site Wal-Mart also is using increasingly sophisticated methods to answer its critics. Leslie Dach, a political insider who headed Edelman Public Relations’ Washington, WALMART.COM HAS RELAUNCHED AFTER A 13-MONTH OVERHAUL THAT EMPHASIZES D.C. offi ce, was hired last year to manage negative press and craft a new-and-im- large lifestyle images, reduced clutter and interactive technology. proved image for Wal-Mart. One of Dach’s responsibilities as executive vice president It’s the fi rst major revamp since walmart.com returned to e-commerce in 2000 and comes in of corporate and government relations is “reputation manager.” advance of holiday, a season during which walmart.com will have an estimated 100 million visits Dach, who spoke at the analysts’ meeting of Wal-Mart’s transformation, said, “Our in November and December, including seven million per day in the peak around Thanksgiving, strategy is to play offense every day. We have messages and a story line that’s persua- said Raul Vazquez, chief marketing offi cer of Brisbane, Calif.-based walmart.com. sive. Our second strategy is to become part of the solution. When [critics] see the scale The redesign is part of the retailer’s goal of making its stores — even its virtual ones and commitment of Wal-Mart” they understand it’s what they need to get to a solution. — visually sleeker and easier to shop. Instead of simply listing items, the new site focuses Dach said the company is recognizing its need to convey this message to the public. on bundling merchandise — showing a room’s worth of decor, for example, or a head-to-toe Wal-Mart is beginning to test a TV commercial that discusses the contribution the outfi t with corresponding jewelry and shoes. All components shown in the picture, down to company is making in local communities. A version of the spot played Tuesday sounds the earrings or a throw pillow, are listed below the image, allowing for quick purchasing. like the folksy campaign of a political candidate. “It’s been said that when Wal-Mart The approach should benefi t apparel, which is experiencing triple-digit gains and is one comes to town, it’s like getting a nice pay raise,” an announcer says, then he touts the of the fastest-growing online categories, Vazquez said. affordable health insurance plan offered to associates. “We want to be a trend tester for Wal-Mart, as we did trying cashmere sweaters two years Scott admitted the company’s health care plan does have a high deductible — ago.…Stores require a larger investment to try new things, so we’re the perfect place to test.’’ $1,000 to be exact — but said “people are not good health care consumers. More and Carter Cast, walmart.com’s chief executive offi cer, said in evaluating the redesign more companies are moving to a model more similar to Wal-Mart and are trying to executives will be scrutinizing the “attach rate” to see how often a customer buys drive good consumer behavior into the purchase of medical services.” coordinating products and increases the total number of items purchased. Wal-Mart’s ceo was optimistic about the company’s prospects. “As gas prices level — Katherine Bowers off, we will see stronger sales. It is not our expectation to proceed with 1 percent comps. There’s room for growth across almost all of the company.”

comes to holiday shopping.” Analysts Offer Holiday Forecasts Weinswig said retailers will be more promotional this year. Wal-Mart has already stepped up its promotions, Weinswig said. “In addition, we believe that retailers By WWD Staff will be aggressively competing for market share following signifi cant industry consolidation at the department stores.” orecasting holiday sales, like predicting weather, is an inexact science. Stevan Buxbaum, executive vice president of turnaround and consultant fi rm F Analysts, equity firms and consultants are predicting gains of as much as Buxbaum Group, is bearish in his outlook for holiday sales. In a report Tuesday, Buxbaum 7 percent this season, but they’re hedging their bets, too, waring there will be as said “retailers can expect a small increase in holiday sales but no real strength — the many retail losers as winners. same kind of middling performance they saw in back-to-school sales this summer. As analysts, equity firms and consultants offer their best guess on holiday sales, “It will be a season without much steam. Same-store sales may rise a little, but their overall outlook is good, showing expected gains of up to 7 percent. But there you won’t see anybody knock the cover off the ball, because the overall mood of the will also be as many retail losers as winners, they warned. consumer is cautious,” Buxbaum said. “That will translate into very disciplined Despite being upbeat on lower fuel costs, consumers will troll for the best value spending, with people being very choosy and buying quality rather than quantity.” their money can buy, analysts said this week, adding that companies such as Wal- Dana Telsey, chief executive offi cer and chief researcher at the Telsey Advisory Mart Stores, Target, Kohl’s and J.C. Penney are best positioned to leverage this Group, is more upbeat. “We had a pretty good holiday season last year, and positive trend, while the specialty apparel fi rms will likely face the most challenges. August and September trends are leading people to anticipate a solid holiday season.” Citigroup analyst Deborah Weinswig explained in a research note Tuesday that Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners, is calling for a gain of 5.4 holiday sales are looking to be robust “as energy prices have eased and the outlook percent this year. He described the American consumer as more resilient than some for the consumer has improved. However, even with an improved macroeconom- analysts and economists give them credit for. “This year we are expecting an above- ic backdrop, we believe the consumer is ‘trained’ to look for a good deal when it average year, maybe not as good as recent years, but still positive,” Johnson said. 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 Crisp, Tommy Hilfi ger Tommy Hilfi ger Clean and Classic

NEW YORK — This season, Tommy Hilfi ger is testing new ground. Uniting his U.S. and European collections, he’s looking to turn his empire into a global brand with one uniform collection and ad campaign. Hilfi ger’s new looks for spring were on display Monday, including plenty of his campus classics: colorful rugby tops, seersucker shorts and shrunken blazers decorated with exaggerated crests. But for those antiprepsters, Hilfi ger also took a desert-chic turn with military-style jackets, a safari Tommy Hilfi ger tunic and dark denim shorts. Later that day, Ann Taylor and Ann Taylor Loft hosted their own fashion show. Shari Hershon, senior vice president of design for Ann Taylor Loft, was inspired by vintage American style, which translated into slouchy khaki trousers, playful seersucker shorts and cropped denim jackets. Meanwhile, Michael Smaldone, senior vice president of design for Ann Taylor, set his sights on the career woman with day looks that focused on tailored suits and graphic skirts and dresses. Highlights for night included soft chiffon polkadot cocktail dresses and a bow blouse paired with a little lace skirt. And at an informal breakfast presentation on Tuesday, it was evident that Kevin Carrigan, creative director of Calvin Klein white label, was inspired for spring by his company’s rich history with a collection full of iconic Calvin Klein looks that were clean, fresh and modern. Simple shirtdresses and easy draped tops paired with city shorts, for instance, looked relaxed, while still sophisticated. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Calvin Klein white label Calvin Klein white label Ann Taylor Loft

Calvin Klein Ann Taylor white label PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 WWD.COM In the Mainstream Industry Insiders: Gant Taps an Undersea World Speed to Market Wins With Jean-Michel Cousteau NEW YORK — Ask vendor and retailer vice president of supply-chain operations REFLECTING ITS alike about their biggest challenge, and for Polo Ralph Lauren. ongoing message, A spring Gant ad featuring the answer likely will be the same: how Heightened consumer awareness and “Our commitments Jean-Michel Cousteau and his to shorten speed-to-market time. industry consolidation make speed to reflect our passions,” children, Fabien and Celine. More than 50 executives met Tuesday market more important than ever, execu- Gant has enlisted at the Princeton Club here to talk about tives said. Jean-Michel Cousteau streamlining the supply chain. The In the face of this challenging en- and his Ocean panel discussion, organized by Emanuel vironment, Boyd Rogers, president of Futures Society for a Weintraub Associates, included experts the global supply chain at VF, said the global spring ad cam- from Polo Ralph Lauren, VF Corp. and company has succeeded by adopting paign. Federated Department Stores. a consumer-centric approach that in- Part of a multimil- Speakers said their companies began volves researching and segmenting its lion-dollar marketing reevaluating the supply chain and speed ultimate consumer base. On the retail initiative, the image to market around 2000 and questioned side, VF aims to be “the most relevant campaign will debut why production cycles are so long when supplier to strategic partners” by tar- in February in all 73 it only takes an average of 18 minutes to geting brands to specific consumers countries that carry make a shirt. and channels, as well as developing its Gant, the Swedish “How do we go from mere minutes to own stores to showcase the brands and line known for its sig- months?” asked Robert Zane, chairman develop brand equity that carries over nature preppy look. of the U.S. Association of Importers of to the wholesale sales. The print shots Textile & Apparel. VF now does more than half of its will feature Cousteau Zane, who recently retired from Liz business with its 20 top retail partners, with his children, Celine and Fabien, on the water wearing looks from the Gant Claiborne Inc. where he was in charge Rogers said. spring 2007 collection — and scuba gear thrown in for good measure. of sourcing, emphasized that every area Federated Department Stores, cap- “The Cousteau family is passionate about exploring and protecting the ocean,” of a company — not just the sourcing de- turing 10 percent of the apparel dollars Arthur Engel, chief executive offi cer of Gant AB, said in a statement. “Their dedica- partment — should be held accountable spent in the U.S., according to one pre- tion and admirable work through Ocean Futures Society represents an enthusiastic for speed to market. sentation, epitomizes the consolidated conviction and dynamic lifestyle that Gant shares.” “Willingly or unwilling, we happily retailer. Thomas Cole, vice chairman of Gant declined to give an exact budget fi gure but said the campaign, which in- trade time for comfort,” Zane said. Federated, gave vendors a piece of ad- cludes in-store promotions, would run in the multimillions of dollars. In lieu of “The most expensive elements of a vice: “Speed wins.” paying Cousteau, Gant made a six-fi gure donation to Ocean Futures Society. The slow time to market does not even ap- “Why aren’t we all better than this?” apparel fi rm is developing specialty items to refl ect the images, though it does not pear on the cost sheets: the costs of Cole asked. “Consolidation will only plan to donate those proceeds to OFS. Gant will also insert the Cousteau portfolio markdowns.” make the need for speed greater. Those in its consumer catalogue, of which it distributes about 2 million copies to retail- To find inefficiencies, Hamilton who can keep up will survive.” ers and customers worldwide. McDermott, vice president of Emanuel Cole called slow speed-to-market time Carrying on the legacy of his father, Jacques Cousteau, Gant’s new partner is Weintraub Associates, recommended that “one of the great tragedies of our busi- the founder and president of his nonprofi t marine, environmental and educational companies map out their entire supply ness.” organization. His family’s active maritime lifestyle has been an inspiration to Gant, chain, upgrade outdated processes and Federated, which supplies 20 per- which has associated itself with coastal living and an active marine lifestyle, accord- eliminate duplicate steps. cent of its own business through private ing to the company. A company can cut one or two weeks labels, is the worst culprit of long lag “I am very excited to work together with Gant on this project that also supports by shipping from Asia to the West Coast times, but its goal is to shrink private the Ocean Futures Society,” said Cousteau in a statement. “We share the same instead of the East Coast, McDermott label speed to market so that buyers can commitment and passion for an active water lifestyle and the ocean, which is said. One-third of Polo Ralph Lauren’s see vendor’s offerings before making its such an integral part of our lives.” products are distributed through the own orders, he said. — W.B. West Coast, said Howard Smith, senior — Whitney Beckett Isabella Co. Brings Its Brands Into Retail NEW YORK — The Isabella Co. (New York) Inc. is adding retailer to its repertoire. Desert, Calif., to house several of the company’s lines under one roof. “We know The multiline showroom here, which wholesales, markets and distributes sev- the customer base in Palm Desert is ideal for our client base, and there are no mul- eral European bridge labels, recently opened two in-store shops at Montreal retail- tibrand retailers there who could carry our lines adequately,” Aubrey explained. er Ogilvy for the brands Basler and Gerard Eventually, the as-yet-unnamed specialty store could spread to other regions, Darel, which Isabella also represents in The Gerard Darel shop-in-shop. where Isabella’s lines are underrepresented. Aubrey plans to have three stores by New York. According to the fi rm’s president, the end of next year, two of which will be for Basler. “One of our goals is brand pro- Howard Aubrey, the plan is to open more motion,” Aubrey added. “We believe this will help our retail clients.” such stand-alone stores for some of its labels, — Marc Karimzadeh as well as venture into a new retail concept that could carry several of Isabella’s lines. In its high-tech, 12,000-square-foot digs just off Seventh Avenue, Isabella represents the Basler, Bianca and Annette Görtz lines from Germany, Gerard Darel from France, Sita Murt from Spain, and Homme Body from England. At Ogilvy, the 1,250-square-foot Basler boutique and adjacent 950-square-foot Gerard Darel boutique were created to resemble each brand’s own stores. Worldwide, Basler, the German collection of high-quality sportswear separates and knits, has six company- owned stores and 35 franchised boutiques, while Gerard Darel has 50 boutiques, 18 franchised stores and 81 in-store shops. “We hope that our new stores will help build brand-name recognition in the USA and Canada for both Basler and Gerard Darel, which in turn will help increase our distribution with independent specialty and department stores,” Aubrey added. Isabella was founded in 1985 as a joint venture between The Isabella Co. (London), Aubrey’s family business, and Basler GmbH. Basler continues to own 50 percent of the business here but has no involvement with the other lines the company represents. According to Aubrey, the company has annual wholesale sales of $20 million. The Basler in-store boutique at Ogilvy. Aubrey said he is currently looking for retail real estate in Palm

8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 WWD.COM Live and In Person at Tiffany Flagship L’Oréal in Deal to Buy

NEW YORK — There’s a fi rst time for everything — even at Organic Beauty Firm venerable jeweler Tiffany & Co. After 161 years of showing its annual collection of one-of- PARIS — L’Oréal is taking root in the organic beauty category. a-kind designs only in Tiffany’s Blue Book catalogue, the The French beauty giant announced Tuesday it has acquired luxury retailer on Monday unveiled the entire assort- French organic beauty manufacturer Laboratoire Sanofl ore for an ment on the recently remodeled main fl oor of its Fifth undisclosed sum. Avenue fl agship here. Sanofl ore is expected to ring up sales of 15 million euros, or $19 Tiffany kicked off the display with a celebration million at current exchange, in 2006. In a statement, L’Oréal said during which guests, including Keri Russell, Mira the 20-year-old brand, which employs 147 people and is based in Sorvino, Dustin Hoffman, Carol Kane, Christopher Lloyd Dustin Hoffman the Drome region of southeast France, is to become part of its ac- and Newt Gingrich and his wife, Calista, ogled an estimat- and Mira Sorvino tive cosmetics division, which also includes the pharmacy brand ed 200 rare gems in cases and on models outfi tted in gowns A Tiffany & Co. Vichy. specially designed from recycled paper. diamond ring. L’Oréal said it intends to capitalize on consumer demand for “We used muffi n cups to create a collar, packing material organic products and to expand Sanofl ore’s international reach. from Crate & Barrel to create the effect of an eyelet skirt Tiffany & “We are delighted to be welcoming Sanofl ore, a company that and even Chinese paper lanterns,” said David Monn, the Co. white specializes in natural and organic products, to the family,” said event architect. “We wanted the models to be dressed in and fancy Brigitte Liberman, managing director of L’Oréal’s active cosmet- something that was more about art, like the jewels.” yellow ics division, in the statement. “Having Sanofl ore on board will “It’s like Project Origami,” said Carson Kressley of diamond enhance our ability to be “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy,” admiring a gown that earrings. even more responsive to cascaded to the fl oor with a train the aspirations of each Models of rosettes. consumer. This is truly Kressley was also drawn to the cases an alliance of expertise, BEAUTY BEAT in paper gowns of jewels created using rare and time- combining the experi- and Blue consuming techniques, like a plique-à- ence and knowledge of an organic brand, the integrity of whose Book jour flamingo that allows light to shine formulas and values we will preserve, with the know-how and re- jewels through the enamel, emulating the effect of stained glass. search capabilities of the L’Oréal group.” at the Other showstoppers were a $4.5 million necklace compris- L’Oréal said it plans to increase Sanofl ore’s international turn- Tiffany ing 84 carats of diamonds and a 41.37-carat pear-shaped over going forward. Currently, 20 percent of the brand’s sales are & Co. diamond pendant. It also featured rare colored diamonds, generated outside France. event. like a pair of earrings modeled after an archival Tiffany “We are determined in our aim to internationalize Sanofl ore, design from 1925 that held yellow diamonds at the center. making its products available all over the world to consumers “If you want an evening in New York with quite a whose appetite for natural and organic products is constantly spectacle, this is the place to be,” Gingrich said before growing,” said Liberman. heading upstairs to see a predinner performance by Tony “Joining the L’Oréal group will enable us to speed up our devel- Bennett. opment both in France and internationally, while clearly reassert- Tiffany’s Blue Book collection will remain on display ing the identity of our company and our close links with the world Keri through Sunday. of organic ingredient suppliers,” said Stephane Richard, chairman Russell — Jennifer Hirshlag and chief executive of Sanofl ore, in the statement. This is the second investment in an organic brand by a large French beauty fi rm this month. On Oct. 6, Groupe Clarins announced it had snapped up a 10 percent stake in the newly founded natural brand Kibio. Clarins and Kibio plan to create an organic cosmetics line together. Gucci Gets Creative Adding iPod to Opening — Ellen Groves

MILAN — At Gucci, the music and are providing to the press and VIP customers for fashion axis will now spin on tech- our Ginza opening and reinforces the commitment nology, as well. to creativity and innovation we have at Gucci,” To fete the opening of its eight-story said Lee. SK-II Cleared in China fl agship in Tokyo on Nov. 1, Gucci will Saved in the memory of the 30 gigabyte iPod NEW YORK — Procter & host a performance by Mary J. Blige the fol- will be a press release about the store’s opening in Gamble plans to resume Select SK-II products. lowing night and present a fi fth-generation Ginza; a virtual mini movie that will show work in selling its SK-II skin care iPod etched with the Gucci logo and cradled progress on the Ginza outpost; images from the brand in China within inside a silver La Pelle Guccissima holder. men’s and women’s spring-summer 2007 shows, weeks, now that the The link between Apple and Gucci for the and images of special accessories de- General Administration iPod is for the Tokyo event only. signed by Giannini for the store unveil- of Quality Supervision, On Nov. 2, during a dinner at the Tokyo ing. Also, thanks to a special card, the Inspection and Quarantine Harumi Boat Terminal hosted by Gucci chief iPod holders will be able to download and the Ministry of Health executive offi cer Mark Lee and creative direc- custom-made playlists by Giannini of the People’s Republic tor Frida Giannini for some 1,000 guests, Gucci and Mary J. Blige. of China have deemed the will distribute 1,100 iPods with logos to guests — Alessandra Ilari products safe. and press that will serve as high-tech luxury P&G halted sales of SK- press kits. “This is a breakthrough experience we The Gucci iPod. II on Sept. 22 after AQSIQ, a watchdog group there, announced Sept. 14 that was going to be a casual dinner at Sindi’s Knightsbridge it found chromium and apartment turned out to be a seated affair for 30. For the neodymium in nine of the Fashion Scoops full-on fall harvest effect, she decorated her dining room line’s products imported from Japan, where they were produced. with pumpkins, 5-foot corn husks, gourds, cornucopias Both substances are listed as prohibited substances in cosmetics BERGDORF’S MOL: Gretchen Mol was the fi rst to admit she and other autumnal touches for guests such as Tara by China. P&G insisted that the presence of the trace amounts of became acquainted with Sari Gueron’s clothes before she Palmer Tomkinson; Lillian von Stauffenberg and her metallic elements presents no health or safety risk and stated that got to know their namesake. All three parties husband, Damian, and Marc Rich with his neither substance is used in the manufacture of SK-II products. were represented — Mol in a yellow short- daughter, Ilona, and her husband, Kenny In a statement released Monday evening in China, the AQSIQ sleeved dress and Gueron in an elbow-baring Schecter. Not to be overlooked in the crowd, and MOH noted, “P&G has carried out a complete and rigorous blouse and shorts — during Gueron’s fi rst Isabella Blow chose a Philip Treacy hat with examination and investigation of its manufacturing process and public appearance, which was at Bergdorf feathers that spelled her surname. confi rmed that chromium and neodymium are not added during Goodman on Tuesday. Don’t look for the Los the manufacturing process.” The report went on to say that the Angeles-based actress to be lolling around DIAMOND DREAM: It was a double substances were “carried in by raw materials” and, according to other luxury stores later this week. Mol had celebration for Laurence Graff last week. evaluations by experts, that the risk the trace levels of chromium to cut short her Manhattan getaway to start The jeweler not only received the Queen’s and neodymium pose to consumers’ health is “relatively low under fi lming an indie fl ick in Baltimore. Her Award for Enterprise for International normal usage.” latest assignment will take some juggling, Trade at London’s Orangery, Kensington In a separate statement, Daniela Riccardi, president of P&G since she already has signed on to appear Palace, but he also unveiled Graff’s Dream Greater China, said, “P&G would like to thank the relevant Chinese in “3:10 to Yuma” with Russell Crowe and Diamond, a 100.09-carat vivid yellow government authorities for their responsible and prudent attitude Christian Bale (a remake of the 1957 fi lm cushion-cut diamond, worth more than in dealing with the situation. We express our appreciation for their starring Glenn Ford and Van Hefl in). But $20 million. Set on a pear-shaped white partnership in resolving the issue.” the independent movie offered a few perks diamond necklace, the jewel took center Stevie Wong, general manager, SK-II Greater China, stated, “We she couldn’t resist. Set around the time of stage as guests buzzed around its case. thank SK-II consumers for their patience and our customers for the Bay of Pigs, the fl ick’s Sixties infl uence “There’s a few reasons why we called it the their support and we apologize for any confusion. We are deeply won points with Mol. “It has great hair, great Gretchen Mol and Sari Gueron Dream Diamond — such as the beautiful gratifi ed by the clarifi cation regarding SK-II product safety by rel- clothes. I said, ‘I’m in.’” painting ‘The Dream’ — but really it’s just evant authoritative government organizations. SK-II always puts a great name,” said Graff’s son, Francois, who added the product safety and quality fi rst and we always endeavor to strictly PILGRIMS’ CROSSING: Dennis Basso and his partner, company already has a few deep-pocketed buyers lined abide by the laws and regulations in China. We are communicating Michael Cominotto, got a warm welcome in London last up. “It will sell — we have two or three people in mind with our customers on the details for resuming sales of SK-II in week, thanks to Rena Sindi. What the New Yorkers thought already,” he said. Mainland China.” — Molly Prior WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 9 WWD.COM

to drag him on the plane” (although he didn’t say exactly care and empathy by those at the top of the government.” why). Zinczenko also will look for more service-oriented Jabs at the Bush administration also dominated the MEMO PAD panels similar to the show, tell and discuss ones led by winners in the News category, which included another Carr this time round. “I also want better breakfasts,” he New Yorker winner (“Watch Your Back Mountain,” a play WHAT’S ON THEIR MINDS: A legend has it that men said, somewhat disappointed by the offerings this year. on “Brokeback Mountain” and vice presidential rifl e skills) think of sex every seven minutes, so si.com editor Paul “Breakfast is the most important meal of the day.” and the Rolling Stone cover of Bush in a dunce cap Fitchenbaum sure knew how to appeal to their instincts on Thanks for the tip, Dave. Are you carb- beside the line, “Worst President in History?” Tuesday at the American Magazine Conference during a loading, or what? — Stephanie D. Smith Clearly, the winners, chosen by a panel of panel discussion on the less-than-scintillating topic of editors and designers, weren’t going to embracing video in magazine’s digital platforms, which LEANING LEFT: Was the media’s alleged convince anyone at Fox News of the was moderated by the New York Times’ David Carr. As liberal bias at work in choosing the magazine world’s red state bona fi des. Deidre Depke, editor of newsweek.com; Stephen Hedlund, winners of the American Society But ASME president and Glamour president of Ehlert Publishing Group, and Alison Tocci of Magazine Editors’ fi rst-ever editor in chief Cindi Leive dismissed joined Fitchenbaum in discussing how they’ve done it, the Best Cover Competition held at Cindi any suggestions the liberals carried common theme was to keep the clips short. Unless, that the conference? The New Yorker Leive the vote. She felt the cover choices is, there are scantily clad women involved. “The only video took the top prize for last year’s refl ected the national mood more longer than four minutes should be the swimsuit video,” “Flood in the Oval Offi ce” cover, than the politics of either the said Fitchenbaum, referring to content surrounding Sports which showed President Bush magazines or the judges, and pointed Illustrated’s swimsuit issue. Of course, he’s biased. and his cabinet submerged. The out that winners in categories such That discussion was only one of the sessions dealing accompanying ASME commentary as Celebrity and Fashion (in which with print’s continuing angst over adapting to the noted the references to Hurricane Departures took top honors) weren’t at new world order of digital. Monthly celebrity-oriented Katrina’s “bodies fl oating unclaimed in all political. “So goes the news,” Leive magazines are becoming even less timely, thanks to murky waters…clear signs of the lack of said. — Irin Carmon the proliferation of celebrity weeklies and celebrity bloggers, according to a panel with Martha Nelson, editor of the People Group; Glenda Bailey, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar; Peter Herbst, editor in chief of Premiere, and celebrity publicist Ken Sunshine that was moderated by culture critic Elvis Mitchell. Bailey and Herbst said they now book covers with celebrities a year to 18 months in advance, since not only the weeklies but even the newsweeklies, such as Time and Newsweek, are competing for bookings. “We have no choice but to make commitments as far out as possible,” said Herbst. That said, exclusives still

David Zinczenko

rule no matter the medium or frequency. Sunshine described how People broke the news that ex-boy band star Lance Bass was gay. “We made a deal with People, the interview, photo shoot, spilling his guts took place in 24 hours,” he said, meaning bloggers and other news outlets did not have time to intercept the story. And, as executives raced through hotel checkout to make their afternoon ﬂ ights, one ﬁ nal order of business was passing the torch to David Zinczenko as the 2007 AMC chair. The Men’s Health editor in chief and author will oversee planning for next year’s conference in Boca Raton, Fla. While this year’s compact schedule and high-wattage Monday luncheon speaker Barack Obama pleased most attendees, Zinczenko already is brainstorming on how to improve the festivities next year (and none of them involved “8-Minute Abs” DVDs and copies of his “Men Love and Sex” book in every room). “I want to spike attendance,” Zinczenko said, adding that New York editor in chief Adam Moss is one person he wants to attend next year, “even if I have

12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 WWD.COM Nordstrom Looks to Make It in Manhattan

Continued from page one The company does show some fl exibil- Loretta Soffe Field shopping center in Garden City, for the Seattle-based chain. “There are a ity and in Naples, Fla., plans a store with and Pete Long Island; the Westchester Mall in good half-dozen that are worth exploring. about 80,000 square feet for a fall 2008 Nordstrom at White Plains, N.Y., and Garden State We are looking at sites. Our focus is really opening, though Nordstrom has acknowl- the Metropolitan Plaza in Paramus, N.J. For years, trying to get something in Manhattan.” edged that Naples was a unique situation Museum of Art. Nordstrom was lukewarm about open- Nordstrom was interviewed at the because 80,000 square feet was all the ing a store in Manhattan because it is Metropolitan Museum of Art on Monday company could get. Smaller formats are reluctant to deal with the high costs night, where he and his executive team, a possibility for certain markets, such as and hassles of opening in the city’s cen- surrounded by a slew of young design- Los Angeles, where there are already big ter. The retailer even passed over some ers, celebrated the launch of “In Vogue,” Nordstrom stores. interesting sites, which one source said a book about the history of Vogue pub- The Lord & Taylor site also could included 23rd Street near Sixth Avenue, lished by Rizzoli. Nordstrom co-spon- be a long shot. Nordstrom did express which went to Home Depot. But this sored the party. concerns about the location, which is year, Nordstrom appears to have made The executive wouldn’t elaborate on on Fifth Avenue between 38th and 39th an attitude adjustment. all the sites the retailer is viewing but Streets. It’s about 10 blocks south of The retailer’s increasing interest did say the Penn Station area, down- Fifth Avenue’s fashion retail enclave in being part of New York’s fashion town around the Battery Park area, and and not a primary destination for an up- scene was apparent at Monday night’s Trump Tower are among those being scale fashion crowd. The owners of the party. About 300 people, including “In examined. “We looked at Lord & Taylor, Lord & Taylor fl agship property are con- Vogue” co-author Alberto Oliva, Ivanka too,” Nordstrom said. “We haven’t ruled sidering downsizing the 650,000-square- Trump, Diane von Furstenberg, Proenza anything out.” foot site for possibly a smaller L&T store Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Nordstrom said the company is “cre- or converting the entire site to residen- Hernandez, Tory Burch, Zani Gugelmann, ative and open-minded to locations. tial and commercial use. Or they could Justin Giunta from Subversive Jewelry, “We don’t have to be between Saks decide to put Nordstrom in there. No Ashleigh Verrier, Peter Som, Andrew Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman,” decision about the site by L&T’s new Rosen, Damon Dash and Rachel Roy, at- Nordstrom said. “There are other places owner, NRDC Equity Partners, has been tended. Nordstrom’s top merchant and where we could probably be successful.” announced. marketing executives were all there, in- Donald Trump said he’s got 125,000 Nordstrom also cluding executive vice presidents Loretta square feet available for Nordstrom, agreed that lower Soffe, women’s; Jack Minuk, shoes; or some other potential tenant, with Manhattan poses Margaret Myers, accessories; Laurie Asprey and Avon recently closing their some challenges, Black, cosmetics; marketing vice presi- locations at Trump Tower. Trump noted particularly since dent Terri Rose and vice president of de- that Nordstrom could have frontage ex- it doesn’t have as ZACK SECKLER PHOTOS BY signer apparel Jennifer Wheeler. tending along 75 percent of the block much weekend Jennifer “Sometimes, it’s a tough thing for us between 57th and 56th Streets on Fifth shopping traffi c as Wheeler to be based in Seattle,” Nordstrom ac- Avenue, providing excellent exposure in SoHo or Midtown. and Jeffrey knowledged. “We feel a little out of the the high-traffi c neighborhood. Tiffany & Department stores Kalinsky loop sometimes in certain things.” But Co. occupies the other 25 percent on the require strong he stressed that Nordstrom’s presence 57th Street side of Fifth Avenue. Trump weekend traffi c to will be increasingly felt in New York. also said he could extend the retail space survive. Recently, Nordstrom sponsored the up a few levels to six, adding more space, Real estate CFDA Awards and the “Anglomania” ex- but prefers not to. exec utives indi- hibit at the Costume Institute at the Met. “They love the space, but we are talk- cated that Vornado At the “In Vogue” party, a silent ing to so many different people,” other has development auction of prints of iconic Vogue im- than Nordstrom, Trump said. rights across from Marchesa’s ages raised $90,000 for the CFDA/Vogue Nordstrom’s vision at this point doesn’t Penn Station and Georgina Fashion Fund. “I have always loved seem to match Trump’s. Nordstrom said could assemble a Chapman and that moment when Shalom Harlow and he ideally would like 225,000 to 250,000 number of proper- Keren Craig Amber Valletta were reigning, particu- square feet for a Manhattan store, so ties to accommo- larly one of Shalom jumping up in this that could rule out Trump Tower. “It all date Nordstrom. pink dress,” Thakoon Panichgul remi- depends on the location and fl oor plate “Thirty-fourth Street would be a great lo- The Meatpacking District is another nisced, before placing — and winning — 180,000 square feet on three fl oors cation because of the traffi c,” said Laura possibility. There is space available on — a bid for an Annie Leibovitz photo- might be right. We want to open a store Pomerantz, principal of PBS Realty 14th Street and Ninth Avenue, but only graph of a group of models. Phillip Lim, that speaks to the full breadth of what Advisors. about 62,000 square feet over three fl oors, too, had his own favorite images from Nordstrom can be.” The problem is that many of the sites Pomerantz said. the magazine. “I loved Peter Lindbergh’s It seems Nordstrom has upped his available in good retail locations are too In addition, a variance is required to cover with all the supermodels in leath- requirements. Last spring, he said a small for what Nordstrom wants. “They open a large site and build upward in er outfi ts and biker caps,” he said. “My Manhattan site would have to have at really need a good ground-fl oor plate,” some areas, such as SoHo. The chain did past holiday collection was inspired by least 100,000 square feet in an area Pomerantz said. examine the Shops at Columbus Center, it.” Doo-Ri Chung, however, looked fur- that’s proven fertile for retailing and Vornado also has property on the where ultimately the economics and fi t ther back in time for her favorite Vogue that the company would be fl exible in southeast corner of Broadway and with the developer weren’t right. image. “There is quite a fantastic image its format for Manhattan, perhaps creat- Broome Street, being redeveloped for Breaking into Manhattan is of Martha Graham’s ‘Lamentation,’ ” she ing a site that’s more vertical than most residential and some retail use that, ac- Nordstrom’s logical next step since it said. “And it was jersey.” Nordstroms. “We don’t want to be a pio- cording to Pomerantz, has about 75,000 has ringed the city with stores, includ- — With contributions from neer,” he said at that time. above ground and 35,000 below. ing units that operate in Roosevelt Marc Karimzadeh

Malo looks for Malo Looks to Fashion to Broaden Appeal spring 2007. By Alessandra Ilari image alongside awareness,” the remainder from wovens. and oversize totes. said Santucci. Stores that lauded Malo’s In the knitwear arena, MILAN — Malo is knitting a Aquilano and Rimondi’s new fashion direction and that there were slouchy cashmere new future for itself. 6267 line won the Vogue-spon- carry the line include Bergdorf sweater dresses or flat knit Without shunning its heritage sored Who Is On Next contest a Goodman, Neiman Marcus and shifts with a Lurex border. of plush cashmere knitwear, the year ago with a collection that Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S., Accessories, a growing cat- brand, owned by IT Holding, has melded big-screen glamour Selfridges in London and Lane egory for Malo, included over- developed a growth plan based with innovative tailoring. Crawford in Hong Kong. Malo size bags with braided handles on broader collections with a Santucci said Malo was ex- also has 30 freestanding stores and sculpted patent leather contemporary spin. panding its offerings beyond around the world. platforms. Santucci said foot- The arrival last July of de- knits because “not only is knit- “First, we want to consoli- wear was launched by a team of signers Tommaso Aquilano and wear an overcrowded market, date the collection to then designers hailing from Prada. Roberto Rimondi of the 6267 but depending on China for reach out to new sales points Wholesale prices range line marked the beginning of cashmere is very risky.” that aren’t necessarily interest- from $1,000 for a long cash- Malo’s drive to be edgier, lure In Santucci’s opinion, Malo ed in cashmere,” said Santucci. mere cardigan and $1,400 for a new sales points and broaden should be more fashion-driven To up the international quo- glass embroidered silk bomb- its customer base. since “people’s drawers are fi lled tient, Malo showed its spring er jacket to $2,000 for a light- To be credible, Malo’s chair- with classic cashmere sweaters.” line in New York during fashion weight cashmere coat. man Giacomo Santucci believed In the near future, Malo ex- week. The Sixties-driven col- Santucci said Malo regis- it was necessary for the clothes pects the percentage of its busi- lection spotlighted structured tered double-digit growth in to be associated with a face — or ness to be equally split between volumes and bigger silhouettes sales this season. Malo’s fi rst- faces, in this case — rather than knitwear and wovens. Currently, with a Mod streak. Detail was half sales grew 13.6 percent, with an anonymous design team. 70 percent of the company’s rev- key, with cabochon glass beads to 22.6 million euros, or $27.8 “We want to build brand enues come from knitwear and applied to tulip skirts, shorts million at current exchange. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 13 WWD.COM WWD West Dolce & Gabbana Optimism, Nostalgia at Contemporary Market Betting on Vegas By Rachel Brown and Khanh T.L. Tran A Sixties- olce & Gabbana has reopened its inspired LOS ANGELES — Loose and easy may best describe the looks Las Vegas boutique at the Forum shift dress D and mood that prevailed at the five-day contemporary fashion Shops at Caesars Palace after a four- from April, market that ended here on Tuesday. month renovation, part of a worldwide May. Below: Encouraged by lower gas prices and the popularity of dress- initiative to replicate the decor of the Pinstriped es, retailers wrote orders at a brisk pace. company’s Milan flagship in most of its baggy pants Buyers appeared to be enticed by Sixties-era styles as locations. from Hengst. evoked by Jackie O-style shift dresses, widened pant legs and “Las Vegas is one of our key mar- lengthened waists. kets, and the store had one of our “Dresses are still the thing,” said Nevena Borissova, original design concepts,” said owner of Los Angeles specialty store Curve. Glenn McMahon, president of Dolce “Wider-legged pants will be really important for & Gabbana USA. “[Now] all of the us,” added Jaye Hersh, owner of the Los Angeles spe- stores in the major fl agship cities are cialty store Intuition. For spring, Intuition reordered of the latest generation: Milan, Paris, wide-legged looks from Lotta and GoldSign. London, Miami, Las Vegas, New York Reduced gas costs may leave extra cash in the and Los Angeles.” pockets of young shoppers who are the prime mar- The Los Angeles unit was renovated ket for the contemporary clothing featured at Brighte last year, increasing its selling space Companies and Designers & Agents, two New York- by 35 percent through the addition of based trade shows that ran in conjunction with the Los a freestanding men’s store. The com- Angeles market at New Mart, Cooper Design Space, pany’s three-fl oor New York fl agship California Market Center and the Gerry Building. at 825 Madison Avenue will be joined “When the cost of living goes down, you go on a lit- by a permanent men’s store at 827 tle trip to Fred Segal, [and] you have fun,” said Jake Madison Avenue, in spring 2007. Until Campbell, a representative for J & Company. The Los then, a temporary men’s store is up Angeles jeans maker unveiled a pricier line called and running at 755 Madison Avenue. Select, which wholesales from $85 to $95 and is being The revamped Las Vegas space fea- scouted by better department stores. tures 15-foot ceilings, crystal chande- Prices are also rising in the accessories market. liers and a fl oor-to-ceiling LED screen “It used to be that $300 was the magic retail [price broadcasting Dolce & Gabbana runway for purses],” said Richard Luna, owner of the hand- shows. Walls are swathed in alternat- bag showroom Richard Luna + Associates Inc. “Now, ing panels of black glass and mirrors, $400 is the new $300. I am sure a year from now I will and accessories are displayed on glass tell you $500 is the new $400.” eyelet and tiny gold beads that took the form of a and lacquered vitrines in a lounge The Sixties permeated the 300-plus booths at peacock. “It can go over jeans or leggings,” said area framed by black serpentine velvet Designers & Agents. Cap-sleeved shift dresses in knits, Anis Rawji, Joolay’s sales representative in Los sofas. Fixtures are rendered in brown silks, prints and solids were seen at Voeu, Crispin & Angeles. wood in the men’s section and ebon- Basilio, Anna Sui and Mel en Stel. France’s April, May showed Another testament to the popularity of all things Mod was ized wood in the women’s section. versions in solid-white organza and in silk Pop Art prints. the ubiquity of boxy jackets that appeared to have stepped out “It’s typical Dolce & Gabbana,” “It’s all a mix between Sixties’ ‘Dolce Vita’ and French pop of Jackie O’s closet. The versatility of crop jackets — they can McMahon said. “There’s a play be- star Mareva Galanter,” said Diane Sitbon, the designer for be paired with pants, shorts, skirts and dresses — created de- tween the organic and the very pol- April, May, which received orders from Los Angeles specialty mand for a draped collar number in charcoal and moss at the ished.” retailers Fred Segal, Madison and Lisa Kline, among others. showroom of designer Robert Rodriguez. Among the company’s fi ve U.S. re- Curve’s Borissova ended her search for a Twiggy dress by Manoush and Wilster showed versions with dramatic bub- tail stores, the 5,300-square-foot Las writing an order for variations on it at England’s Boudoir. She ble sleeves, while Borne and Anna Sui opted for metallic fab- Vegas unit is consistently in the top acknowledged that dresses are easy to wear for customers but rications. SO, a new label from 20-year-old British brand bgn, three in sales. “The store is impor- might not be a fi nancial boon for all stores. “It’s not great for featured a jacket cut from ombré-dyed leather. tant not only domestically, but it gets all the retailers, because it’s a one-piece sale,” she said. No single color ruled the market. The trend was a move a lot of international guests, as well,” Still, retail buyers scooped up dresses, which began their away from bold tones to a more subdued palette, however. McMahon said. reign on runways and sidewalks last spring. Olive was the best-selling color at Sita Murt. Handbag design- Outside the U.S., the company op- Los Angeles’ Crispin & Basilio, which wrote orders with er Rebecca Ciccio found an audience for an off-white hue in erates 51 stores, including 17 in Italy. Madison and Diavolina, showed shiny silk tunic tops in laven- which she sold a shoulder bag for $270 wholesale. Although there are no imminent plans der and cream, in addition to chic waistless dresses in metallic Lounge lifestyle maven Trina Turk infused her eye-catching to launch more retail units in the U.S., champagne and taupe. “People want everything easy-fi tting,” patterns with bronze and slate. One standout item was a silk McMahon said, “We’re always looking said sales representative Jackie Yi. “They like the shapeless cotton dress wholesaling for $122 in soft brown slate. at additional markets.” pieces more, as opposed to the super-body-conscious.” While the skinny jean continued to sell well for Los — E.V. Some buyers were turning away from leggings, yet Joyce Angeles-based denim companies such as Blue Cult, 575 Denim, Boutique in Hong Kong ordered 500 units of 10 legging styles, James Jeans and Denim of Virtue, orders for straight and boot- including navy, brown and gold Lurex, from Los Angeles’ Romeo cut styles outpaced those for the slimmer silhouette. and Juliet, said Showroom Seven cofounder Karen Erickson. “Straight is the hottest cut right now,” said Hallie Chan, Dresses maintained their momentum at ENK West Coast sales representative for James Jeans, which nar- International’s Brighte expo. They were big hits for companies rowed its boot-cut slightly for spring. “Everyone’s been order- ranging from Los Angeles’ Voom by Joy Han to Barcelona’s Sita ing the skinny and straight cuts in a [solid black] wash.” Murt/Esteve and New York’s Joolay, which produces its entire A jean with a 13-inch leg opening also sold well at Blue silk line in India. Cult, as did a cropped skinny silhouette with zippered ankles. Benefi ting from positive reviews of her Oct. 19 fashion show, The fi ve-year-old brand still sells twice as many boot and Han estimated that she booked $600,000 in orders, making it straight styles as skinnies, said sales manager Jill Kissel. one of the best trade shows ever for her. Buyers placed orders In reaction to two seasons of slim fi ts, a handful of compa- for immediate deliveries and the spring collection of colorful nies debuted wide-legged and baggy-cut pants, some of which silk prints that she had shown on the runway, she said. featured artfully high waistlines. Los Angeles’ Tag offered Joolay fashioned light, billowing dresses out of a variety high-waisted, wide-legged dungarees, while San Francisco’s Dolce & Gabbana’s of textiles. One knee-length trapeze dress — which, at $135 Hengst cut pinstriped Italian poplin into baggy trousers whose revamped Las Vegas wholesale, was among the most expensive and popular pieces wide waistband could be folded down. store.

— combined panels of chiffon with a neckline made of satin — With contributions from Emili Vesilind JIM LAURIE DOLCE & GABBANA BY TYLER BOYE; MARKET PHOTOS BY

work,” Lhuillier said. taped acceptance speech, “I love being The Marketing Excellence Award able to introduce people — editors and Awards Celebrate Los Angeles Fashion went to Collection Bebe. Other nomi- fashion industry people — to our world nees were Joe’s Jeans, Kitson, l.a. and to some [Los Angeles] designers.” THE SECOND ANNUAL LOS ANGELES acceptance speech. Eyeworks and Quiksilver. Popular vin- Junior retailer Charlotte Russe Fashion Awards at the historic Orpheum The three emerging designers staged tage stores Decades and Decades Two received the Nasdaq California Theatre downtown on Friday attracted a runway shows as part of the event, took home the Fashion Retailer Award Apparel Stock of the Year Award. The festive crowd of designers, retailers and which was sponsored by Saturn and over American Rag Cie, Kitson and Inspiration Award went to the fashion members of the fashion community. Los Angeles magazine. Grey Ant’s Grant Satine. “Thank you, you compulsive and arts collective Gen Art and was ac- Designer Rozae Nichols, lauded for Krajecki, who was originally a fourth shoppers, you keep us in business,” said cepted by its West Coast regional direc- her elegant-yet-edgy designs, won the nominee in the category, had asked to co-owner, style consultant and fashion tor, Jennifer Egan. Moss Adams Fashion Innovator Award be taken off the ballot. writer Cameron Silver. Nominees and winners were chosen over nominees Juan Carlos Obando Bridal and ready-to-wear designer Arianne Phillips, the stylist and by the Los Angeles Fashion Award nom- and Society for Rational Dress’ Corrine Monique Lhuillier won the Wells Fargo Academy Award-nominated cos- inating committee, comprising local de- Grassini. “This award is really a refl ec- Century Fashion Achievement Award. tume designer, received the Fashion signers, retailers, media members and tion of the passion and talent of every- “There are so many designers out Communication Award. Phillips, who style arbiters. one in my factory,” Nichols said in her there…this kind of confi rms all the hard was fi lming in Santa Fe, N.M., said in a — E.V. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006

Merchandise Coordinator Loro Piana has an outstanding opportunity available in the wholesale division. Candidates must have a minimum of 5 yrs exp in luxury/designer clothing either as a merchandise coordinator or dept mgr. Responsibilities will include visually presenting Loro Piana product; developing, building & managing relationships with accounts; & conducting in store seminars. Travel required. Must have excellent interpersonal and communication skills. Only LA based candidates will be considered. Please submit resume with salary requirement to: Vice President, Human Resources Loro Piana, 711 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10022 [email protected]

A Los Angeles Sleepwear & Daywear Manufacturing Group Seeks: National Sales Manager/ Sales Executive Looking for someone with strong relationships with major retail. Must posses excellent communication skills, self-motivation & ST. JOHN be a team player. Minimum five years experience required. St. John, headquartered in Irvine, California, one of the premier names in American women’s DESIGNER Sleepwear Designer Looking for a professional with at least 4 years exp working for fashion and widely recognized in the fashion industry for its innovative and extensive manufac- North Hollywood, CA turing capabilities is seeking creative, exceptional and dynamic individuals to join our team. large co. handling mass market accounts. Must have strong sketch The following exciting opportunities are located in Irvine, California. Great first time opportunity for and technical package skills, illustrator skills, fit knowledge, etc. an experienced designer to take Sales Coordinator charge from concept to show- Seeking someone with a min. of 3 years exp. in Sales/ product PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER room. If you have a passion for St. John Knits is currently searching for highly skilled Patternmakers. Individuals will be respon- development. Must have good merchandising skills, PC fashion, love our product and are knowledge and be able to work independently. sible for First Design prototype patterns as well as finalizing patterns for production. The ideal a leader, call us! Must have expe- candidate will have the following: adept at draping and extremely detail oriented, proven rience in contemporary market, Please email or fax resume and expected salary to: experience in working directly with Designers and an ability to instruct sewers in the making of able to predict and execute best [email protected] the first sample. Computer patternmaking skills a plus. sellers, self starter good communication and management skills. TECHNICAL DESIGNER Great opportunity to work with a St. John is also currently seeking new Technical Designers to join the Technical Design team. fun, innovative team in a fabulous The ideal candidate will have the following: a degree in Fashion Design with emphasis in North Hollywood location. MAJOR ACCESSORIES CO. is looking for talented textiles and clothing. Possess an aesthetic point of view with an eye for detail and proportions. Please email resume to: & motivated individuals who are interested in joining our team. Ability to work independently and within a team environment. Ability to manage multiple proj- [email protected] ects simultaneously. Strong computer skills. or call 818-505-0018 x102 Creative Director: Los Angeles/Phoenix Manage men’s/boy’s design, graphics & sample dept. Design products to satisfy all brand reqs each season. Must have 5 EMBROIDERY DESIGNER years experience in design/dev and line building in men’s We are currently looking for an Embroidery Designer of Embellishment to support our Sequin leather belts and accessories for mass and dept stores, as and Embroidery department. The ideal candidate must have innate artistry and design capa- well as 5 years experience with overseas factories. bilities, in addition to excellent digitizing skills with 5-7 years experience in the industry. Experi- ence in operating embroidery equipment is essential. Knowledge of patternmaking, grading Product Coordinator: Los Angeles and graphic arts are a plus. Ensure proper product development flow from product conception through product release. Source finished goods, raw materials & St. John offers a comprehensive benefit package including Vacation, 401(k) Plan, Employee vendors. Must have excellent organizational & negotiation Discount, Medical, Dental, and Life Insurance. skills, be detail oriented, outstanding verbal & written communication abilities. Bilingual in Chinese/English a plus. Please submit resumes to: [email protected] or fax to 949-437-8112 . To view all career Must have 2-3 year experience with overseas manufacturing. opportunities within St. John please visit www.stjohnknits.com. EOE Send resume to [email protected]

CHARLIE LAPSON GROUP HANDBAG AND ACCESSORIES ASSOCIATE DESIGNER LOS ANGELES BASED THE CANDIDATE FOR THIS EXCITING POSITION WILL WORK DIRECTLY WITH THE HEAD OF THE COMPANY, CREATING THE KEY ACCESSORIES THAT DAZZLE CELEBRITIES ON THE RED CARPETS AND ARE FEATURED IN FASHION MAGAZINES INTERNATIONALLY. YOU WILL ASSIST WITH ALL ASPECTS OF DESIGN, SKETCHING, SOURCING, RESEARCH AND SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT. YOU WILL INTERACT WITH VENDORS IN ASIA AND TANNERIES IN ITALY. MUST BE COMPUTER SAVVY AND ABLE TO COMMUNICATE WITH OVERSEAS OFFICES VIA EMAIL DAILY. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO TRAVEL TO ASIA, EUROPE AND SEVERAL US CITIES DURING THE YEAR. MUST HAVE A DESIGN DEGREE AND MINIMUM 2 + YEARS OF INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE WITH ACCESSORIES. PLEASE EMAIL YOUR RESUME AND SALARY HISTORY TO [email protected] INCLUDE JOB CODE #1068 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT / DESIGN COORDINATOR KA7 is seeking a Product Development/Design Coordinator with min 3 years of experience. Must be knowledgeable in overseas development and pre-production. Should be a team player. Position based in the Los Angeles area. Please forward your resume and salary requirements to laitken@7forallmankind or fax us at 323-406-5309 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 15

LeSportsac, the leading worldwide brand of nylon bags, DIRECTOR OF SALES - travel accessories, and luggage since 1974 has the HOSPITALITY ACCOUNTS following career opportunities at the select locations; Major L.A. based apparel manufacturer and wholesaler Fashion Show Mall- Las Vegas, Nevada seeks creative and dynamic person to oversee uniform, linen Seeking strong, professional, and experienced and home products sales/prod. Current clients include premier individuals to fill the following positions; Las Vegas restaurants and hotels, with pending opportunities to expand distribution to restaurants, hotels and resorts inter- Store Managers nationally. Candidate must have a min. of 5 years exp. in the Assistant Managers apparel/fashion industry with some in sales. Skills required: Full Time Sales Specialists Good judgment and passion for growing sales, great follow- Part Time Sales Specialists through and ability to work in a fast-paced, fun environment. Stock positions Please email resume to [email protected] Retail exp., strong customer service skills, and desire to grow are required. Please email your resume and salary history with subject header specific to the position you seek to: [email protected] We will only contact those candidates for further consideration. Equal Opportunity Employer. SALES REP WANTED To learn more, visit us at lesportsac.com Well established premium luxury brand is seeking a highly motivated Footwear & Accessory Sales person for the West Coast. Should be aggressive, organized and have strong computer and follow-up skills. Must have excellent relation- SALESPERSON ships with higher end retail buyers—a background in luxury Irvine, CA footwear is preferred. Please send resumes to: [email protected] Luxurious womenswear co. in Irvine, CA is looking for a salesperson to work at corp. headquarters. Must have min. 3 years experience, relation - ships w/ chains & dept stores SALES REPS Aggressive Sales Rep and be willing to travel to Experienced Sales Reps LOS ANGELES BASED shows. Seeking a self-motivated needed for luxury clothing co. individual who wants to grow Growing women’s contemporary with an established company. Prefer California Resident. line. Motivated, organized, efficient, Competitive salary & commission. Please e-mail resume to: detail oriented. Email resume: [email protected] Call 213-689-8808 x 304 [email protected] or Fax: 949-748-7615 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

Showroom & Office Sublet 37th & 7th Ave. 3000 Sq. Ft. Showroom & Office - Fully Built. Rent below current Important Italian Fashion Co. market price. Call 646-752-8727 JOBBER/EXPORTER We buy better goods. All categories, Seeking Agent in the U.S. for including fabrics. Immediate $$. Please call 212-279-1902 Representation & Distribution of a New Luxury Line of Women’s Fashion Please E-mail all inquiries to: [email protected] Leather & Shearling Samples, Domestic Prod, Short Runs. Alligator & Python. Fast, Reliable, Economical. Call Steve 917-841-6726 1407 BROADWAY SHOWROOMS/OFFICES TREBOR MGMT Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 14th-40th St. Showroom-Hot Lofts PRODUCTIONS 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. High-End Couture House Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Major Business. Accomplished high- search- www.manhattanoffices.com end couture house w/ trademark cur- IMPORT/EXPORT/PROD rently in major doors throughout the SPECIALIST PATTERNS, SAMPLES, US market seeks buyer. Tel: 973.220.2008 Search For Space In Garment Center Hong Kong based Production Specialist Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee available, with 15 yrs garment import/ PRODUCTIONS www.midcomre.com export experience in China. Will set up Full service shop to the trade. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 branch office in Shanghai/Jingsu to Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. monitor all sample, patternmaking, production, QC, packing/shipping lo- Patterns/Samples/Production UPSCALE BOUTIQUE IN MIAMI SOHO: 413 W. BROADWAY gistics. If interested in setting up your Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms PRIME LOCATION IN CORAL GABLES 2,200 SF. Full Floor. Betw Prince & branch office in Shanghai, please e-mail Any Style - Full Service SELECT CLIENTELE Spring. Call Jason Kling: 212-880-0431. BILLIE NG at: [email protected] Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 UPDATED INVENTORY. HELMSLEY-SPEAR, Inc. ONCE IN A LIFE TIME OPPORTUNITY ESTABLISHED 1968 - HUGE SUCCESS HI-PROFIT - UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE [email protected]

SHOWROOMS - LIVE/WORK Ideal showroom on Fashion Ave CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Better Wmn’s Sportswear Business luxury doorman, 1000sf 2bath $3350, U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 For Sale. Well est’d NYC base business 1Br $1650, $1875. Also 2000sf $3600, www.sanodesignworks.com w/large existing customer base & exp’d. 4300sf $8500 Broker 917-678-7927 sales force. Pls call: 646-752-8727 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006

FABULOUS JOBS!!!! Freelance and perm openings in…. Dir of Womens Merch- branded exp, Long Island Sweater Designers- Mens & Womens Tech Designers- Web PDM Asst Design, Merch & Prod- freelance Send resumes ASAP!!!! Email: [email protected] Chargeback/Specialist Est’d Importer seeks chargeback specialist w/ min 3 yrs exp in Apparel ONLY to join our fast paced team. Must have strong computer/ communications skills and be aggressive in pursuing customer deductions. Re- sponsibilities: Investigation/resolution of C/B, issuing & follow-up of RA’s, POD’s, posting of C/R, cust service calls. Good benefits. Fax: 212-695-3847 or email: [email protected] COLLECTION PATTERN MAKERS *1St Prd’n Bridal Runway $80-110K *1St Prd’n Looks Like Tahari $100K Drappings & Suitings [email protected] 212-947-3400 Compliance/CB Specialist NYC Apparel Manufacturer seeks exp. individual to implement & enforce vendor compliance: Floor ready, EDI, Ops & Logistics. Respons. includes analysis, collections, waivers & disputes of CB’s. Excel benefits & salary pkg. Please fax resume 212-967-0924 or email: [email protected]. Designer Designer Children’s Wear Sportswear & Controller To $100K Rapidly growing girls dress importer Sweater Designer Exp Managing $15M Co. NYC Retail seeks a creative professional to design Updated missy sportswear co. seeks [email protected] for our sportswear and dress divisions. organized, exp designer. Must be This individual should possess a creative, high energy, technically strong sense of new and upcoming knowledgeable. (Phila Suburbs) COSTING ENGINEER trends and have a good knowledge of Fax resume and salary reqmts to: Leading manufacturer of girl’s clothing the market. Excellent track record and (610)251-2230 or [email protected] Assistant Designer seeks costing engineer. Candidate references are mandatory. Admin Since 1967 ADRIENNE LANDAU must be able to develop 1st specs, Submit resume in confidence to Luxury ready to wear designer seeks a [email protected] calculate consumption and have extensive DESIGNERS W-I-N-S-T-O-N organized & motivated design assistant BRAND MANAGER knowl. of fit, construction, patternmaking www.kahnlucas.com with 3-5 years experience. Must have APPAREL STAFFING Are you a seasoned Brand Manager and costing. Please send resume to: experience with technical packages & [email protected] DESIGN * SALES * MERCH be aware of trends. Please send resume with a flair for creative and innovative ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION along with a cover letter to: ways to market an exciting product? (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 Designer - Dancewear [email protected] The Colibri Group is looking for a dy- Customer Service Salary 40K We invite passionate, creative and namic Brand manager for our Precious Experience with order entry, inventory West. PA Dancewear Co seeks exp’d driven individuals to apply for: Ladies Jewelry line to bring a new vision reports, and Excel. designer. Gerber Sys. 1st pattern / Assistant Trim to the line and create brand objectives Raskin Executive Search grading a must. Reply to: DESIGNER: and strategies that will improve brand F: 732-536-4770 Email: [email protected] Box#M 1039 Purchasing Agent quality and positive brand associations. c/o Fairchild Classified Women’s Sweaters Movie Star Inc. has an opening for an This Brand Manager will define the 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl assistant trim purchaser w/ min. 2-3 brand DNA, provide direction as it re- CUTTING Room Mgr-LIC-review knit New York, NY 10017 DESIGNER: yrs exp. To qualify you must have: lates to distribution channel, product fabrics on Perkonic mach/check cuttings/ good time-mgt/analytical skills, strong design and marketing materials to pref Chinese speaking/mge 25. $OPEN Women’s Knits attention to detail, follow-up a must, maximize growth. Requirements: BA/BS Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Both positions require a college degree & the ability to work in a fast paced in marketing or related field. 3-5 years in fashion, 5 + years of design and fit environment. Comp: MS Word, Excel, experience in the jewelry industry and experience, excellent sketching ability, knowledge of precious jewelry preferred. DESIGNER AS 400 a plus. Please fax resume Designer sportswear co. seeks senior and strong computer skills including w/ salary to CPJ (212) 684-3295. Please submit your resume and salary Design Assistant PDM. For Sweaters, knowledge of requirements to: designer to create collections. Strong A/R Credit and Importing Sweaters & Cut/Sew Knits. experience in using trims and patterns US, European & Asian yarn markets Collections Manager The Colibri Group, 100 Niantic Avenue Seeking new fresh starter right after preferred. Fax or email resume to: & machine knitting experience re- Providence, RI 02907 college. Fax Resume to: 212-391-5800. E: [email protected] F: 212.695.9483 quired. For knits, cut & sew experience DC Design International is a luxury is required. design and marketing company with Fax: (401) 946-0390 BERNARDO E-mail: [email protected] distribution in premier department Designer Please visit our career site: and fine specialty stores. Open for im- SALES EXECUTIVE Designer/Graphic Artist http://careers.polo.com mediate hire. Individual must review A Leading Ladies Outerwear Company Asst Hat Designer Young Men’s/Boys’ Co seeks: and use keyword search to apply and extend credit within established seeks a Sales Executive. Candidates must High-end NY hat design co. seeks cre- 1-YM Designer/Graphic Artist for for a Designer position at Lauren. policies. Assure timely collection of have a minimum of 5 years experience ative, organized individ to help design T-shirts with min 9 years exp. receivables and resolve chargebacks. working with Department and Specialty women’s, mens, bridge line hats, hair 2-Boys’ Designer/Graphic Artist Also, please reference WWD when Assist in cash forecasting & budgeting. Stores. A Great opportunity to join a BUYER acc & belts. Must have 1-2 yrs hat/acc with min 9 years experience. applying. Only qualified candidates Monthly rec of AR to GL. Min 5 yrs exp. stellar team. Compensation level relative Fast paced buying office seeks hard design & RTW exp., technical knowledge The full time candidate must have will be contacted. For immediate consideration, please to Experience. Please fax or email to: working Junior Buyer to shop the of hat patterns, felt/straw, cut/sew, knit excellent Photoshop & Illustrator e-mail your resume w/ salary req to: 212 594-3999 wholesale market. Email resumes to: & fur hats. Fax/email resume & $ req skills & understand the current trends. Polo Ralph Lauren is an Equal [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] F: 212-674-1769 E: [email protected] Email resume to: [email protected] Opportunity Employer. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 17

SMILES NY-based Women’s Apparel Importer is looking for: PRODUCTION COORDINATOR A highly organized, detail-oriented individual with min 3 years exp in garments. Good communication skills - Computer skills with Excel a must. Technical Designer A Designer who can sketch tops, pants, skirts, jackets and dresses, issue initial size spec’s, measure garments, issue fit comments / up- dates, communicate with overseas factories and good understanding of patternmaking and garment construction. Email resume to: [email protected]

DESIGNER Est’d Missy Sportswear line seeks exp’d designer. Must be proficient in CAD work & all phases of design, be organized & very detail oriented. Email:[email protected] or fax res: 212-768-1858.

NATIONWIDE APPAREL JOBS • Designers, Men’s & Women’s, Activewear/Athletic • Designers, Men’s & Women’s, Lifestyle, Skate, Surf • Technical Designers, Multiple positions • Graphic Design Manager, Athletic Apparel • Product Developers, Basketball, Fitness, Tennis, Running • Product Line Managers, Athletic/Activewear • Global Brand Managers, Fitness & Running • Director of Product Development and Sourcing Must have a Degree & a min. of 3 yrs. exp.working for a major Brand. Submit resume as a Word attachment to John at: [email protected] Patternmaker/Asst Designer Handbags Experienced in sewing first sample for overseas production. Salary commensurate with experience. JKARA Call 914-420-4136 / Fax 201-784-3242 OFFICE & BILLING ASST Women’s clothing co. seeks computer PATTERNMAKER literate individual 3-5 years exp in EDI Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. billing, order processing, data entry for person, Bklyn warehouse. Gerber all major retailers. Excellent verbal, skills a plus. Fax: (718) 369-4927. TECHNICAL KNITWEAR DESIGNERS written, follow up & communication skills needed. Able to assist w/ all general office duties as well. Personal/Exec Assistant We are expanding our design team and are seeking experienced Technical For Liquor/Fashion/Design/Art CEO Designers and Assistants. Preferable with a degree in knitwear design, Please fax resume to 212-840-9310. $60-70K salary + 25% bonus w/ travel. knowledge of knitwear specification and the fit process and a thorough See: www.recruitny.com/wwd technical knowledge of fully fashioned knitting and knitwear construction. PROD’N COORD $65K Knowledge of cut & sew knits also a plus. Must have proficient drawing * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * Cut & Sew Knits skills for technical diagrams. Detail oriented, with good communication, *Artist Girls 4/14 Jr. Driven *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men PROD’N COORD $65-70K computer and follow-up skills. Ability to work as part of a close team. A *Coster--Apparel 2-3 years experience Better Woven Sportswear good knowledge of the luxury, designer and contemporary markets. Full *Dsgnr or Assoc Girl 4/14 Denim Bottom PROD’N SOURCE COORD $55K compensation package including health/dental benefits plus life and disa- *Design/Merch Director Jr. Denim $HI Bi-ling Chinese *Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr-Missy [email protected] 212-947-3400 bility insurance, 401K, transit checks and clothing allowance. *Patternmaker-c/s knits-Gerber $HI Please e-mail resume, cover letter and salary history to: *Production Coords- bilingual Chinese $HI PROD’N/TECHNICAL OPENINGS *Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI Label Purch/Co-ord order labels/followup [email protected] *Technical Designer & Assist C/S Knits Cutting Rm. Mgr sptswr loc. L.I. City *Technical Designer -- Sweaters Tech Designer - intimates co. will train *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI CREATIVE CONNECTIONS AGENCY *Technical Designers-Childrens PH: 212-563-5930 Fax: 212-563-6086 Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Email: [email protected] Product Coordinator GRAPHIC ARTIST Rapidly growing NJ based importer Graphic artist for girls 2-6x size range selling mass market chains seeks needed for fast growing children’s Product Coordinator for Crafts Marketing wear company. Must have at least 3-5 - JOHN RICHMOND - Department. Our line includes Ribbon, years experience with children’s li- Seeks highly energetic and committed Beads, Trims, and Embellishments. pro’s to fill the following positions: Responsibilities include product costing FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES cense character art, Disney character preferred. Excellent knowledge of il- • SALES DIRECTOR & specs, packaging & product approvals, Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 lustrator CS2 and Photoshop. Ability • ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE communication with overseas suppliers. Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 to design original graphics and prints. • RECEPTIONIST Candidate must have strong EXCEL Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Knowledge of embroidery, appliqué, Please e-mail resume to: skills, be detail oriented & highly and print production techniques. Fast, [email protected] organized. Excellent salary/benefits. [email protected] Send resume/salary requirements to: www.raskinexecsearch.com detail orientated with a good sense of color, trend and design. Salary based [email protected] on experience. Please send Resumes to [email protected] Production Assistant Hbag Mfgr seeks team player w/exc Junior Fit Model communication, organizational skills FASHION FACULTY Fashion forward Jr. Sportswear Co. & ability to prioritize. Daily corresp w/ Private College seeks faculty for seeks Jr. Fit Model for daily fittings. Far East & customers, submission & Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, GRAPHIC ARTIST Required body measurements include: follow up of lab dips & samples. Must Master’s degree required, along with Major apparel company seeks skilled Height: 5 ft. 6"/5 ft. 7", Size: 5/7, Bust: 34B be proficient in Outlook, Excel and Word. significant industry exp. Knowledge of (Bra cup size), Waist 26 1/2 to 27, Hips E-mail [email protected] freelance graphic artist in Junior girls 36 1/2 to 37. F/T pref’d but will consider textiles, product development, buying, tops for execution in screen prints. Must Design Room Asst visual merchandising, merchandise P/T for fashion students. Must have a Entry level position for a busy design be proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. clean neat appearance for showroom Production Assistant planning & control. Send resume to: Import Co, childrenswear, seeks Prod room that specializes in nb-toddler Fashion Search Fax resumes to: 212.730.9705 modeling and some experience. Other apparel and accessories. Resp. will responsibilities include: clerical, some Asst to handle order details from include but not limited to board Berkeley College data entry (will train) and assist in placement through shipment. Must presentations, sample and catalog 44 Rifle Camp Road, West Paterson, organizing samples. Serious candidates understand garment size specs. Com- preparation for sales, sample prep. for Division Head New Jersey 07424, Fax: 973-278-0080 only, No Agencies please. puter literate Excel a must. Fluent in the orient. Knowledge of Excel and Fashion Pet Accessories Inc. or Email: [email protected] GRAPHIC ARTIST Please e-mail resume with photos English & Chinese. Fax resume other business programs a plus. Fashion Pet, Inc., the largest provider Equal Opportunity Employment Must have 3-5 years exp in nb-toddler (Applications that do not include 212-268-8232 or Email [email protected] Call Naomi 212-391-6970 x 147 of Pet Apparel in the USA, is looking apparel or access. Must be able to work photos will not be considered) to: for an entrepreneurial individual to in Illustrator and Photoshop. Resp. in- [email protected] manage this rapidly growing category. clude both creative & technical design. Salary commensurate with experience Production Assistant Candidates should have minimum of 5 Call Pat 212-391-6970 x 143 and paid full benefits. years exp managing fashion support Major apparel company seeks detail Design staff, designers & sales personnel, and oriented and organized assistant for possess a thorough understanding of GRAPHIC ARTIST Fast growing children’s wear company busy production dept. Responsibilities Senior Designer fashion, apparel construction and cost- include PO entry, work order entry and Fast paced, high energy, growing ing. Previous travel to Asia a big plus. looking for a graphic artist for 7-16/ MANAGER Women’s Apparel Co seeks: Must be motivated, detail oriented, junior’s (girl’s) size range. Must have at QC tracking plus follow up & handling Min 3 - 5 years exp in Contemporary comfortable making key account sales least 3-5 yrs exp. in children’s market, Graphic Designer $45-65K OPERATIONS of all packing and carton markings. Must Active / Sleepwear design. Includes presentations, and possess an extreme Excellent Knowledge of illustrator CS2 Fast Growing women’s sportswear and Photoshop. Ability to design original Apparel company seeks talented indi- have good computer and communication supervising designers & giving clear desire to succeed. Reports directly to vidual to create marketing & graphic company seeking responsible and skills. AS 400 experience preferred. direction to patternmakers, designers, the President. Excellent salary and prints, embroideries, applique’s etc. hardworking individual. Must multi- Good sense of color, trend & knowledge content for advertising, catalogs, Please fax resumes to: 212.730.9705 production & sales to meet deadlines. benefits. Located in Bloomfield, NJ. packaging, photo-retouching, etc. Detail task. Duties include overseeing import, Create collection from color to end Please E-mail resume & salary history to: of garment construction. Detail oriented shipping, logistics, customer service and very organized. Technical ability as oriented and organized. the ability to product. Must be self-starter and [email protected] work with a team under tight deadlines and credit. Min. 3 yrs of experience. multi-tasker. Great oppty for growth well as creative. Salary based on exp. LIC location. Email cover letter and PRODUCTION ASST Please fax resume to: 212-643-2365 is essential. Proficient in MAC, Adobe and excellent benefit package. Email Illustrator/Photoshop. Fun & fast-paced. resume to Leah at : Busy import apparel co seeks detail /Fax resume: [email protected] Email: [email protected] [email protected] oriented person. Must be comp lit, effi- or 212-827-3344 Attn: DS or fax to 212-730-7872 cient and organized. Fax 212-695-7548 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006

MACK TRUCK CLOTHING, a division of Brand Marketing Strategies, Inc. is expanding its team. The following opportunities are located in NYC: DESIGN ASSISTANT Partner with design on all projects. Create presentation boards. Initiate DIRECTOR OF SALES - DRESSES line sheets. Create and maintain tech packs. Ability to do color approvals. Knowledge of Illustrator and Photoshop. A.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designer clothing seeks a PRODUCTION COORDINATOR dynamic, highly motivated and dedicated individual to join our dress division. Candidate will be responsible for managing Monitor line development to ensure time and action calendar from development to sampling thru production. Communicate daily with overseas a team of sales executives, as well as, direct sales responsibility offices and factories. Create and maintain seasonal PO’s and UPC ’s. Par- for key accounts. Individual must be challenged to open up ticipate in all department meetings and fit sessions. Maintain all samples. new businesses, build existing businesses and re-build and Excellent organizational skills and time management a must. Proficient in strengthen relationships within the marketplace. Established Excel. relationships with Better/Contemporary Department stores TECHNICAL DESIGN ASSOCIATE and Specialty retailers a must. Minimum of 3-5 years sales Technical experience in men’s apparel in both knit and woven product. experience required. Develop spec packages. Issue and adjust specs and grades. Review garment Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources construction. Ability to conduct fit sessions. Must be organized, able to (213) 891-2812 or email: [email protected] communicate technical needs daily with factories, work well under pressure, E/O/E with strong computer skills. EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE PRESIDENT Experienced and self motivated Executive Assistant with a talent for prioritizing, an eye for detail and the ability to handle multiple administrative, marketing and sales support responsibilities. Please submit resume and salary requirements to: EMAIL: [email protected] or FAX: (212) 358-1544 Tech Design Assistant Hip & Trendy Missy Contemporary WHERE FASHION MEETS IT’S FINEST TD for Sweaters & Knits • Retail Sales mgr 80-90K+ Min of 1 Year Exp Req • Tech Design Wms Contemp 90-100K Production Coordinator RECEPTIONIST Illustrator Skills a MUST • Graphic Design mkt/adv 60-70K For brand new outerwear showroom in • Admin asst 30-40K Eric Javits Inc. Midtown. Salary $20,000 E-Mail: [email protected] • Prod mgr mens 45-55K Fast paced better handbag co. located in Fax resume to: 212-768-4035 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS • Designer-urban 40-50K LIC seeks person w/ min 3-5yrs exp to • Mktg/Ops-spa 60-70K support all phases of overseas produc- • Mgr-Spa 55-60K tion. Prod development and sourcing ROCKLAND COUNTY, NY • Tech Design-mens 50-60K exp a plus. Key responsibilities incl TD Sr. Sweater $80K • Prod. mgr-mens sweaters 80-90K developing specs, measuring/evaluating CENTRAL NEW JERSEY Tech Graphic Artist samples, recording of all styling Must have 3-5 years exp. in nb-toddler PLEASE put job title in subject line. TD Wovens Sportswear $80K apparel or access. Must be able to work E-mail: [email protected] changes and communicating them to [email protected] 212-947-3400 factories. Computer proficiency/strong in Illustrator & Excel. Responsibilities organizational and follow up skills a SALES ASSISTANT TO 50K include print repeats, technical pack- must. Email resume w/ salary req to: ages, specs & construction. Exp w/ the Detail oriented, Accurate, computer orient a plus. Call Pat 212-3916970 x 143 [email protected] Skills, Prep for sales meetings. Call Janet at 727-772-8717 Production Coordinator [email protected] Fashion Accessory Co. seeks an exp’d. Technical Designer person to oversee all import production. Sales Coordinator Must be detail oriented, motivated, and ADRIENNE LANDAU JR Tech Designer have Wal-Mart/CTL experience. Chinese Luxury accessory designer seeks an Major Denim Sportswear CO seeks speaking a big plus. Overseas travel a organized & motivated sales coordinator Tech Designer w/ min 5 yrs exp & Jr Account Executive & must. Excellent organization, commu- with 2-3 yrs. exp. Must have a positive Tech Designer w/ min 1 yr exp who are nication, and computer skills (Excel) attitude & good communication skills. expert in spec & fit. Knowledge of gar- Asst Account Executive req’d. Fax resumes to: 866-300-5900 Assist sales manager in meeting goals. ment construction and computer liter- Leading Outerwear Mfr seeks energet- Please send resume along with cover ate. Wal-Mart exp a plus. Excellent ic, extremely organized self-starters to PRODUCTION letter to: [email protected] Benefits,401K, Competitive Sal. Email work in fast-paced environment. Must resume: [email protected] be highly motivated, team players w/ Victorinox Swiss Army is looking CO-ORDINATOR SAMPLECUTTER/ sales exp and have current contacts w/ for Sales Managers for our men’s Michelle Roth/Henry Roth provide better dept stores. Email resumes to: & women’s apparel division great oppty to join a dynamic co. Resp. PATTERNMAKER [email protected] include order entry & accurate tracking Technical & Textile Designers based in NYC. Must have at least Experienced in custom clothing. FREELANCE through to purchase orders & ordering Call Ron at: (212) 317-1418 or FABRIC SALES $60K+COMM 5+ yrs exp in a wholesale and trims for o/s vendors. Prepare & invoice Leading Soho home Furnishings/Textile Fax resume to: (212) 832-4849 firm seeks Freelance Technical & Textile Japanese Fabric Mfr, Sell USA luxury brand environment. Strong orders, overseeing the packing of [email protected] 212-947-3400 orders for national distribution. Moti- Designers for bedding, table linens, baby industry relationships required. Samplemaker/Fitter accessories. vated candidate will interact w/ design Full Time Sales Position Email resume to: Management and Sales & production team daily. Must be Experienced in couture cocktail and Tech Designer prepares mechanicals/ [email protected]. EOE organized, detailed, reliable - able to evening wear, for NY showroom. construction/color spec sheets for over- SALARY + COMMISSION positions available in NY area maintain accurate records in related Please call Ron at (212) 317-1418 or seas factories. Reviews samples, makes 525 7th Ave showroom for better sepa- activities. Min. 3 yrs. exp. in similar Fax (212) 832-4849 revisions. Very detail oriented, strong rates and suits seeks F/T salesperson to experienced salespeople position required. Email resume to : computer skills. for small chain stores as well as specialty stores. Min one year experience. in high-end luxury retail. [email protected] SAMPLE RM MGR $$$ Textile Designer needs solid print exp. SALES Supervise Sample Floors For Better Works from trend boards to develop Fax: 212-643-1289 Please fax resume to: concept, color palette, patterns. Knowl- Outerwear / Wools: Fleet Street Ltd Production Manager Designer. Time’N Action. 1st thru Prod’n seeks experienced sales professional. (917) 463-1042 or E-mail: [email protected] 212-947-3400 edge of wovens a +. Modern aesthetic Morgane Le Fay seeks Prod Mgr with req’d. E-mail: [email protected] Jewelry Sales Pro Fax resume to: 212-768-4035 knowledge of entire prod. process, Women’s accessory company is seeks [email protected] strong staff mgmt and personnel skills, Senior Demand Planner experience sales help to increase chain SALESPERSON WTD. E O E expertise with in-house, domestic, and ACTIVITY KITS & TOYS store business. Please send resume to: MORRIS COUNTY, NJ LOCATION oversees production of high-end Warren, NJ supplier of activity kits & [email protected] Better women’s apparel with garments a MUST. toys for mass market seeks experienced Trim Purchasing and specialty store focus. Travel a must, Fax or email resume 212-604-9190/ individual for demand planning and Development Asst experience a must, flexible hours. forecasting a large and dynamically NICOLE MILLER [email protected] Looking for Reps nationwide to promote Please fax resume to: (973) 884-4495 growing business. Right candidate will For Tahari by or E-mail: [email protected] French Boutique have minimum 3 yrs. in retail consumer unique fashion line of wireless phone Production Manager Arthur Levine cases. Please call: (631) 273-7302 x138 WOMEN’S CLOTHING Women’s designer apparel company demand planning experience, outstand- People Orientated, High Energy, ing excel skills, and the ability to com- Are you a trim purchasing assistant in Fax: (516) 908-7668 or Email resume to: seeks a self motivated, career oriented [email protected] SALES PROFESSIONAL Love Fashion, and Enjoy Teamwork? municate well with customers. Excellent the garment industry? Exciting oppor- F/T post – 5 days, including weekends individual. Ideal candidate must tunity to join a fast-paced Women’s Ladies Sportswear Co seeks an aggres- possess a minimum of 7 years expe- Salary/Benefits. E-mail resume/salary to: sive salesperson with strong relation- Fax resumes to: 212-473-9743 [email protected] Wear Company experiencing rapid SALES ASSOCIATE(S) rience with strong organizational, growth! We offer a competitive salary ships with Dept / Chains. Excellent technical and leadership skills. Children’s wear mfr, medium to high end and excellent benefits! Please email seeks hardworking candidate(s) who can earning potential. Fax: 212-719-4644 Domestic prod’n a must with some resume to [email protected] offshore a plus. Great opportunity! produce high volume of sales. Must have strong communication & follow-up skills. STYLECAREERS.COM Please send resume to: SHOWROOM ASST $27-35K Sales Rep - Childrens [email protected] Must be organized, & computer knowl- 1+yrs Fashion Exp. Excel. 7th Ave edgeable. IMMEDIATE OPENING! Sales Assistant – Handbags [email protected] 212-947-3400 Pleasant work environment. Sales Rep – Wms Bridge Production Openings Competitive Salary + Commission Wholesale Acct Rep - Lingerie *All Openings Req Luxury Exp* VP/ GMM Merchandising 150-250K Please fax resume to: (212) 575-2870 Acct Exec - Mult Positions VP Wholesale Sales (2) 125-200K Sales Rep - Handbags/Access Trim / R&D Coord - 90K SPEC TECHNICIAN/ Account Ex. Collections(2) 70-100K Showroom Sales - Sleepwear Senior QC Coord - 85K Planners-All levels 70-90K Sales Rep – Footwear Trim Prchsr / Coord - 60K TECH DESIGNER Buyer On Line- Luxury 60-70K Sales Mgr – Home Fashions Established Active Sportswear and Designers- Freelance 20hr-50hr SALES EXECUTIVE [email protected] Outerwear Co. seeking an experienced Many opportunities available for A women’s boutique company is looking E-Mail: [email protected] for a highly motivated sales executive KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS individual to evaluate sample develop- TEMP and TEMP TO HIRE positions ment through final production. Must Fax: 212-986-7708 with minimum 2 years experience. Must have fitting, grading, garment construc- Email: [email protected] have buyer contacts. E-mail resume to: tion, specing, overseas communication [email protected] PRODUCT MANAGER skills and sewing knowledge. Team ACTIVITY KITS AND TOYS oriented environment excellent Warehouse Manager Warren, NJ major mass retail supplier of compensation & benefits package. activity kits and toys seeks experienced Apparel co seeks individual w/ min 5 Fax resume w/ salary requirements years exp managing inventory, pick / SALES EXECUTIVE individual for sourcing, product direc- to: 646-364-9750 tion & development. Ability to create & pack, shipping/billing operation. Fax Lisa International manage detailed spreadsheets/timelines. resume & salary req to 212-289-3932 or Experienced Sales Exec. to sell ladies Must have creative ability to interpret e-mail: [email protected] Sportswear, Sweaters &Knits. Min 5 yr exp. trends, be hands-on & have good com- Please send resume to: fax S. Sadaka at munication & organizational skills. SWIMWEAR 212.302.5184 or email Experience communicating with China * Patternmakers $80K-$85K Warehouse Supervisor [email protected] a must. Excellent Salary/Benefits. * Tech Designer Asst $40K E-mail resume/salary to: [email protected] 212-947-3400 French Connection has an immediate [email protected] opening for an experienced warehouse SALES supervisor to assist with all facets of Leading Jr. Knit & Sweater Importer TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s warehouse operations. Knowledge of seeks a motivated, dedicated individual QUALITY CONTROL product scanning & computer skills a with 5-7 years experience in Jr. Market *Mod Mass Mkt Director of QC I NEED TD’S!! must. Full time, excellent benefits. Fax or to join our Sales Team. Must be chal- *Luxury Mkt Senior QC Coord *TD Designer Market $75-90K email resume with salary requirements to: lenged to opening up new business, as IMMEDIATE NEED *TD Fully Fashion Knits $85K well as building up est’d. business. Solid E-Mail: [email protected] *TD Better Bridge $85K Pearl at 718-465-0550 or relationships w/Dept. & Specialty Stores KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS [email protected] 212-947-3400 [email protected] req’d. Fax resume to: 212-840-0487 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2006 19 WWD.COM EU Trade Head Urges Concerns Raised Over Vietnam Import Plan By Evan Clark Antidumping cases, which apply to individual goods, can result in punitive tariffs against the offending country. China to Lift Barriers WASHINGTON — Importers are worried the Bush ad- For a case to proceed, the administration would have ministration’s plan to review apparel and textile im- to fi nd that dumping — when an exporting country sells By John Zarocostas ports from Vietnam and possibly initiate antidumping goods at unfairly low prices — occurred. In addition, cases will lead to trade disruptions. the domestic industry would have to prove “material in- GENEVA — European Union Trade Commissioner Policy changes can have a major impact on companies. jury.” The U.S. International Trade Commission would Peter Mandelson on Tuesday called on China to remove The Commerce Department initiated safeguard quotas ultimately rule on the case. unfair trade barriers and threatened to take the case to against China last year, interrupting trade fl ow and vex- “This deals with illegal, unfair activity, and if you’re not the World Trade Organization if Beijing failed to act. ing manufacturers trying to bring goods into the country. doing anything wrong, this letter or this activity that the “Where we have a strong case and where all efforts “If the safeguards were the devil they knew, this is the government is talking about is beyond the reach of what have failed, Europe will use the WTO dispute settle- devil they don’t know,” said Stephen Lamar, senior vice pres- you’re doing,” said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of ment system to ensure the obligations are met and rules ident of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. enforced,” Mandelson said at the European Parliament Though different in scale and method, the cases of Erik Autor, vice president and international trade in Strasbourg, France, where he launched a new policy Vietnam and China are instances in which U.S. tex- counsel for the National Retail Federation, countered, strategy paper on EU-China trade and investment. tile manufacturers won protections against non-market “Every time somebody wants a political deal cut on get- The paper argues that barriers to market access economies seeking to join the World Trade Organization. ting protectionist measures through the trade remedies “are preventing a genuinely reciprocal trading rela- China agreed to safeguard quotas when it joined the WTO law, it’s couched in terms of enforcing U.S. law, and it’s tionship between Europe and China.” It said China in 2001, but the system created uncertainty as importers not [in this case] because it’s being applied on a very ad has maintained a number of peak tariffs in industries didn’t know when quotas would be applied or fi ll up. This hoc basis, driven by political concerns for a handful of of major importance for the EU, such as textiles and led to a U.S.-China deal setting fresh quotas through 2008. special interests. This is going to seriously chill business apparel, leather and fur, footwear, ceramics, steel and Vietnam hopes to join the 149-member WTO this fall. in Vietnam. It creates a more heightened atmosphere of automotives. However, a deal the Bush administration made with unpredictability.” The EU trade chief said the bottom line is that Sens. Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) and Elizabeth Dole (R., The antidumping program should be a useful trial both sides need to arrive at “a proper accommoda- N.C.), who sought to protect manufacturers in their states, balloon for the textile groups that will gauge the impact tion” of each other’s economic interests. might lead to more headaches for importers. Seeking a similar move might have on China when its quotas ex- “Europe has a huge stake in an economically to unblock pending legislation normalizing trade rela- pire at the end of 2008. strong and stable China,” Mandelson said. “Europe tions with Vietnam, U.S. Trade Rep. Susan Schwab and “This is the prelude, this is a test for China,” said Julia has to accept fi erce competition. China has to ensure Commerce Secretary Carlos Gutierrez agreed to an ap- Hughes, senior vice president of international trade at it is fair competition.” parel and textile monitoring program once Vietnam joins the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel. From 2000 to 2005, EU exports to China increased the WTO. If biannual reviews fi nd imports that are sold The impact of possible antidumping cases on im- by more than 100 percent. In 2005, China’s exports to for less than fair value, the administration could initiate ports from Vietnam is unclear, but growth will likely the EU were valued at 158 billion euros, or $198.5 bil- antidumping cases. be slowed. Over the past year, the country’s imports lion at current exchange, and EU exports to China at The results of the fi rst review, which would contin- jumped 21.7 percent to 1.1 billion square meter equiva- 52 billion euros, or $65.3 billion, resulting in a trade ue through the Bush administration, are expected six lents, capturing 2.2 percent of the market. defi cit for the 25-member country bloc of 106 billion months after Vietnam joins the WTO. “People feel a bit betrayed by the administration for euros, or $133.2 billion. Senior fashion executives met with Schwab and making this commitment,” Hughes said. “Companies Referring to recent bilateral trade disputes sparked Gutierrez Tuesday to air their views on the new policy. developed partnerships there, and they feel the admin- by surges in Chinese shipments, Mandelson said, “We “We want to be open and transparent, and we offered istration doesn’t understand the full impact.” managed on textiles. We coped on shoes. Undoubtedly, them the opportunity to feed into any type of monitor- Importers question how the initiating process will formal contacts and personal relations are good. But a ing program that we create,’’ said a U.S. trade offi cial, work, including what will constitute evidence of mate- trade relationship of the sort that we have needs to be speaking on condition of anonymity. “Some companies rial injury. There are also questions on how the admin- worked at more intensively, from a clear road map.” are interested in talking to us and interested in being istration will determine that dumping has occurred. However, he also stressed, “China is not a global- part of that process, others have different evaluations.” The government says it has simply moved to enforce ization scare story. It is a globalization success story. The government is “stepping in as the plaintiff on existing laws. We must keep it that way.” behalf of the [domestic] textile or apparel industry in “To the extent that there is a change of policy, it was a China’s growth has also meant “cheaper goods in terms of initiating a case,” said Cass Johnson, president change in policy that was decided back in 1994 when we European shops, cheaper inputs in business, com- of the National Council of Textile Organizations. decided to end the quota system and realign textiles and petitive stimulus for European companies, growing Domestic textile producers have shied away from using apparel trade with the regular rules of trade,” said the markets for Europe’s exporters, lower interest rates the antidumping laws, since they lack the standing neces- U.S. trade offi cial. “Dumping and countervailing duty and lower infl ation at home,” Mandelson said. sary to bring the expensive cases against apparel imports. rules are the fundamental rules of the road for trade.”

RETAIL SALES AND SALES ASSOCIATES We are recruiting Sales Associates for Sales Rep(s) Wanted Global Sourcing & MANAGEMENT our Flagship Store in New York with Women’s Contemporary Manufacturer/Retailer is hiring: sales experience in high-end luxury Established luxury custom shirt label Prod Exec OPPORTUNITIES shoes, accessories and apparel. Candi- seeks independent sales reps Seeks new challenge w/ well financed date will be responsible for meeting throughout NE for direct retail positions. ladies import co. Negotiating, costing, S A L E S A S S O C I A T E S bebe, a leading retailer in women’s targeted sales goals, customer devel- Sales / Bus. development exp a must. global factory affiliations, organization opment and customer service follow Independent / flexible. Full/part time. building, product development, Mass apparel is seeking candidates for Send resume or info to: (Wal Mart), mid tier and dept store Management and Sales Positions at its through. Seeking energetic sales associates to work at our NY Boutique. Competitive compensation/benefits [email protected] QC and compliance, cost control, and Must love fashion, have an established client book, love to New York City 5th Ave, 3rd Ave, and package offered. Please send resume Fax: 215.496.0925 profits. I bring results, not promises. AOL Time Warner locations. to: FAX: (212) 751-9126 Please Reply to: 917-572-2383 or sell, enjoy building relationships with customers and provide [email protected] Candidates should demonstrate excep- superior customer service. FT and PT positions available. tional customer service with strong communication and interpersonal skills, Production Manager Please e-mail resume to [email protected] along with a polished and professional Available in Eastern Europe demeanor. American apparel executive living in trinaturk.com SALES e-mail: [email protected] Bulgaria. Xtensive Xperience managing Management positions require previous Nat’l Sls Mgr/Hi-end Amer dsgn $75-100k all aspects of ladies suits & sportswear specialty retail management experience District Mgr/East Coast/Hi-end fshn $80k production. Avail to travel to other east Sales Mgr/Childrenswear/French a+ $50k with proven success in sales leadership, countries. Full design knowledge/tech Sales Assoc/Luxe goods/Growth $40k+ design - available immed F/T - P/T. people development, retail operations Contrlr/ French req/Chrgbck-retail $75k+ 1-516-521-2070 [email protected] and the ability to lead change. Sales positions require passion and knowledge of current fashion trends, an understanding of who the bebe client is, and the ability to develop a lasting relationship with her. In addition to an excellent compensation SALESPERSON P/T package, we offer a team-oriented environment with career growth GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Luxury Accessory Company seeking opportunities. someone dynamic & results driven Please e-mail resume to: for their Madison Avenue boutique. Must have 3 plus years exp dealing w/ [email protected] high-end clientele in accessories or fax at: 813-289-6112 Fax resume to 212-794-3910 LIMITED SPACE AVAILABLE WHERE INFORMATION TURNS TO KNOWLEDGE CEOs Can’t Afford to Miss It

November 1-3, 2006 | Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park

SPEAKERS: TERRY J. LUNDGREN, Chairman. President and CEO, Federated Department Stores Inc. DONATELLA VERSACE, Vice President of the Board and Creative Director, Gianni Versace SpA MAUREEN CHIQUET, President and Chief Operating Officer, Chanel Inc. ROSS LEVINSOHN, President, Fox Interactive Media JOHN FLEMING, Executive Vice President and CMO, Wal-Mart Stores TOM DOCTOROFF, CEO, Greater China, JWT GELA TAYLOR, Co-Founder and Co-Designer, Juicy Couture Inc. STEPHEN I. SADOVE, CEO, Saks Inc. BRENDAN HOFFMAN, President and CEO, Neiman Marcus Direct ELIE TAHARI, Chairman and CEO, Elie Tahari Ltd. ARTHUR C. MARTINEZ, Chairman and CEO Emeritus, Sears, Roebuck and Company ADRIENNE MA, President, Joyce Boutique Holdings Ltd. TONY HSIEH, CEO, Zappos.com Inc. CHRIS ANDERSON, Author of The Long Tail: Why the Future of Business is Selling Less of More SUSAN MCGALLA, President and CMO, American Eagle Brand, American Eagle Outfitters

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 866.211.1628 OR E-MAIL [email protected]