Go with the Flow PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier’S Spring Collection for Hermès Was Full of Beautiful Basics, Including Suede Baseball Jackets and Polished Pantsuits
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Phd Thesis Eindhoven University of Technology, Eindhoven, the Netherlands Door
CRAFTING SUSTAINABLE SMART TEXTILE SERVICES Kristi Kuusk Crafting sustainable smart textile services Kristi Kuusk Crafting sustainable smart textile services PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de A catalogue record is available from the Eindhoven University of Technology Library Technische Universiteit Eindhoven, op gezag van ISBN 978-90-386-4020-4 de rector magnificus prof.dr.ir. F.P.T. Baaijens, voor een commissie aangewezen door het College voor Promoties, in het openbaar te verdedigen op Title Crafting sustainable smart textile services donderdag 18 februari 2016 om 14:00 uur ISBN 978-90-386-4020-4 Graphic design Kerstin Zabransky Cover Kerstin Zabransky Copy edits Terry Lavender PhD thesis Eindhoven University of Technology, Eindhoven, the Netherlands door Copyright © 2016 Kristi Kuusk Kristi Kuusk All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and geboren te Pärnu, Estland retrieval system without written permission of the author. Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotoren en de samenstelling van de promotie- commissie is als volgt: voorzitter: prof.dr.ir. A.C. Brombacher 1e promotor: prof.dr. R. Wakkary copromotor(en): dr.ir. S.A.G. Wensveen dr. O. Tomico Plasencia leden: prof.dr. L.-L. Chen prof.dr. N. Nimkulrat (Estonian Academy of Arts) ir. K. van Os (Philips Research) dr. K. Niinimäki (Aalto University, School of Arts, Design and Architecture) Het onderzoek of ontwerp dat in dit proefschrift wordt beschreven is uitgevoerd in overeenstemming met de TU/e Gedragscode Wetenschapsbeoefening. -
Designing Embodied Smart Textile Services : the Role of Prototypes for Project, Community and Stakeholders
Designing embodied smart textile services : the role of prototypes for project, community and stakeholders Citation for published version (APA): ten Bhömer, M. (2016). Designing embodied smart textile services : the role of prototypes for project, community and stakeholders Eindhoven: Technische Universiteit Eindhoven Document status and date: Published: 18/02/2016 Document Version: Publisher’s PDF, also known as Version of Record (includes final page, issue and volume numbers) Please check the document version of this publication: • A submitted manuscript is the version of the article upon submission and before peer-review. There can be important differences between the submitted version and the official published version of record. People interested in the research are advised to contact the author for the final version of the publication, or visit the DOI to the publisher's website. • The final author version and the galley proof are versions of the publication after peer review. • The final published version features the final layout of the paper including the volume, issue and page numbers. Link to publication General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal. -
Luis Venegas What to Read, Watch, Listen To, and Know About to Become a Bullet-Proof Style Expert
KUltur kriTik SChOol of FasHion Vol. 1: LuiS VEnegas What to read, watch, listen to, and know about to become a bullet-proof style expert. SULEMAN ANAYA (username: vertiz136) talked to the Spanish magazine mastermind LUIS VENEGAS about his list of references. coat, jacket, and pants: Lanvin Homme, waistcoat: Polo Ralph Lauren, shirt: Dior Homme, bow tie: Marc Jacobs, shoes: Pierre Hardy photo: Chus Antón, styling: Ana Murillas 195 KUltur SChOol kriTik of FasHion At 31, Luis Venegas is already a one-man editorial powerhouse. He produces and publishes three magazines that, though they have small print runs, have a near-religious following: the six-year-old Fanzine 137 – a compendium of everything Venegas cares about, Electric Youth (EY!) Magateen – an oversized cornucopia of adolescent boyflesh started in 2008, and the high- ly lauded Candy – the first truly queer fashion magazine on the planet, which was launched last year. His all-encompassing, erudite view of the fashion universe is the foundation for Venegas’ next big project: the fashion academy he plans to start in 2011. It will be a place where people, as he says, “who are interested in fashion learn about certain key moments from history, film and pop culture.” To get a preview of the curriculum at Professor Venegas’ School of Fashion, Suleman Anaya paid Venegas a visit at his apartment in the Madrid neighborhood of Malasaña, a wonderful space that overflows with the collected objects of his boundless curiosity. Television ● Dynasty ● Dallas What are you watching these days in your scarce spare time? I am in the middle of a Dynasty marathon. -
Completeandleft
MEN WOMEN 1. Adam Ant=English musician who gained popularity as the Amy Adams=Actress, singer=134,576=68 AA lead singer of New Wave/post-punk group Adam and the Amy Acuff=Athletics (sport) competitor=34,965=270 Ants=70,455=40 Allison Adler=Television producer=151,413=58 Aljur Abrenica=Actor, singer, guitarist=65,045=46 Anouk Aimée=Actress=36,527=261 Atif Aslam=Pakistani pop singer and film actor=35,066=80 Azra Akin=Model and actress=67,136=143 Andre Agassi=American tennis player=26,880=103 Asa Akira=Pornographic act ress=66,356=144 Anthony Andrews=Actor=10,472=233 Aleisha Allen=American actress=55,110=171 Aaron Ashmore=Actor=10,483=232 Absolutely Amber=American, Model=32,149=287 Armand Assante=Actor=14,175=170 Alessandra Ambrosio=Brazilian model=447,340=15 Alan Autry=American, Actor=26,187=104 Alexis Amore=American pornographic actress=42,795=228 Andrea Anders=American, Actress=61,421=155 Alison Angel=American, Pornstar=642,060=6 COMPLETEandLEFT Aracely Arámbula=Mexican, Actress=73,760=136 Anne Archer=Film, television actress=50,785=182 AA,Abigail Adams AA,Adam Arkin Asia Argento=Actress, film director=85,193=110 AA,Alan Alda Alison Armitage=English, Swimming=31,118=299 AA,Alan Arkin Ariadne Artiles=Spanish, Model=31,652=291 AA,Alan Autry Anara Atanes=English, Model=55,112=170 AA,Alvin Ailey ……………. AA,Amedeo Avogadro ACTION ACTION AA,Amy Adams AA,Andre Agasi ALY & AJ AA,Andre Agassi ANDREW ALLEN AA,Anouk Aimée ANGELA AMMONS AA,Ansel Adams ASAF AVIDAN AA,Army Archerd ASKING ALEXANDRIA AA,Art Alexakis AA,Arthur Ashe ATTACK ATTACK! AA,Ashley -
2Bemag Issue05.Pdf
EDITORIAL The fifth issue of 2bemag is finally here, and so far the journey has been interesting, challenging and full of surprises, but most importantly - so rewarding! Step by step we are closer to achieving the initial idea behind 2bemag, to create a base of both readers and contributors that is as international and diverse as possible. The photographers collaborating for issue Nr. 5 are for e.g. from Austria, Sweden, France, Spain, Canada and Russia, and it gives our whole team such immense pleasure to receive and be able to publish more diverse and original work for every day that passes. The essence of 2bemag is really about, freedom of expression through the medium of photography, videography & writing and as always we invite you to collaborate with us. It is important for us to be able to give our fellow collaborators free hands to realize their dreams, and with the finished end result be able to shine the spotlight solely on the artists behind the contributions. Always feel free to contact them for new assignments, comment on their work or simply keep on following their path! We love to discover a talent – as well as we love to be discovered by a new reader. Come as you are and join us again for a new issue of 2bemag, full packed with international raw talent. Be with us 2beMag Staff e-mail: [email protected] 02 2beMag www.2bemag.com STAFF Editor in Chief JOSE GRIMM General Coordinator ROMAN AUSTIN Art Director DANI MELO Advertising EMMA WIKSTRÖM Net Working DR. -
Manufacture of Wool Products
9 Manufacture of wool products K RUSSELL, D McDOWELL, I RYDER AND C SMITH©THE WOOLMARK COMPANY 9.1 Introduction Opportunities for introducing variety into wool products are provided by the fact that wools of different origin vary considerably in terms of mean fibre diameter, distribution of diameter, fibre length, crimp and medulla- tion. Such extensive variations result from the fact that many different breeds have evolved over the years, either through natural selection or through the efforts of man. Different breeds have adapted to particular habitats, and the wools from each breed have their own characteristics and physical properties. In textile processing, wools of different types may be blended together or with other fibres to create special product features, but usually within a fairly narrow average diameter range. Figure 9.1 illustrates the typical usage of wools of different diameters in 11 broad product areas.The darker colour in each band indicates major usage and the lighter areas in the bands indi- cate some usage. Most apparel products are made by weaving or knitting, although carpets and felts may use other processing methods (see Chapter 10). Chapter 6 covers the processing of wool fibre into singles yarns. This chapter now out- lines the machinery used when processing from singles yarns into woven and knitted materials. The various processes are applicable to all fibres, but some are more suited to wool than others, and special conditions apper- taining to wool may sometimes be required to ensure production of a satisfactory wool product. 9.2 Twisting Yarn twisting or folding is a relatively expensive and non-productive operation but for weaving yarns it was, until relatively recently, the only way to produce a final yarn that could withstand the rigours of the weaving process and provide fabrics that exhibited good performance in wear. -
Technology Up-Gradation Fund (TUF) Scheme
Technology Up-gradation Fund (TUF) Scheme Introduction: 1. The Ministry of Textile Industry issued 'Technology Up-gradation Support' Order 2010 through Notification No.3(18)TID/10-P-I dated 5th April, 2010. According to the notification, the Federal Government will reimburse 50% of mark-up subject to a maximum of 5 percentage points p.a., whichever is less for projects exceeding investment of Rs. 10 million in machinery or technology. For projects with investment in machinery and technology not exceeding Rs. 10 million, the Federal Government may provide grant up to 20% of the capital cost for new Plant and Machinery only as "Investment Support". This support will be available to SMEs as defined under the SBP Prudential Regulations for SMEs. The scheme takes effect from September 01, 2009 and shall remain valid up to June 30, 2014. Disbursements under this Order will continue for the duration of loans till June 30, 2024. The repayment period shall not exceed ten years including grace period as may be allowed by the SBP. 2. The Textiles Policy states that the units availing the Technology Up-gradation Scheme would be required to establish that their investments will have at least one of the following characteristics: i. Improve overall technological configuration of the sector; ii. Remove critical imbalances in the value chain; or, iii. Achieve compliance with international standards Technical Committee:- 3. Technological Up-gradation Notification Order states “The Mark-up Support and Investment Support shall cover only the technology and machinery identified under this Order by a Technical Committee chaired by the Secretary to be constituted and notified by the Ministry of Textile Industry. -
Marcas E Editoriais De Moda Em Diferentes Nichos De Revistas Especializadas
UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR Engenharia Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas O caso Vogue, i-D e Dazed & Confused Joana Miguel Ramires Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Moda (2º ciclo de estudos) Orientador: Prof. Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira Covilhã, Outubro de 2012 Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas II Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas Agradecimentos Ao longo do percurso que resultou na realização deste trabalho, foram várias as pessoas que ajudaram a desenvolve-lo e que disponibilizaram o seu apoio e amizade. Desta forma, o primeiro agradecimento vai para a orientadora, Professora Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira, que desde o início foi incansável. Agradeço-lhe pela disponibilidade, compreensão, por me ter guiado da melhor forma por entre todas as dúvidas e problemas que foram surgindo, e por fim, pela força de vontade e entusiamo que me transmitiu. A todos os técnicos e colaboradores dos laboratórios e ateliês do departamento de engenharia têxtil da Universidade da Beira Interior agradeço o seu apoio e os ensinamentos transmitidos ao longo da minha vida académica. Agradeço em especial á D. Lucinda pela sua amizade, e pelo seu apoio constante ao longo destes anos. Às duas pessoas mais importantes da minha vida, pai e mãe agradeço do fundo do coração por todo o amor, carinho, compreensão, e por todos os sacrifícios que fizeram, de modo a me permitirem chegar ao final de mais esta etapa de estudos. Aos meus avós e restante família que também têm sido um pilar fundamental na minha vida a todos os níveis, os meus sinceros agradecimentos. -
Cras-38.1.-009 165..190
Shooting the Movement: Black Panther Party Photography and African American Protest Tr a di ti o n s T.N. P h u Abstract: Although the failure of the Black Panther Party has often been attributed to the violence which consumed it, the photographic record suggests otherwise. This paper argues that the movement in fact developed a striking and self-aware protest aesthetic. Moreover, this still influential self-referential visuality emphasized the spectacular forms of defiance, contributing, in doing so, to African American traditions of protest conventionally rooted in the oral tradition. A focus on Black Panther Party photography helps account for how the rhetorical violence which focused the BPP’s protest aesthetic became complexly indistinguishable from violent realization. Keywords: African American photography, American studies, cultural studies, visual culture, race Re´sume´ : Bien que l’e´chec du parti des Panthe`res Noires ait souvent e´te´ attribue´ a` la violence qui l’embrasait, les dossiers photographiques laissent penser le contraire. Selon le pre´sent article, le mouvement a en fait de´veloppe´ un caracte`re d’autoprotestation frappant en matie`re d’esthe´tique. En outre, ce phe´nome`ne de perception autore´fe´rentiel qui conserve toujours son influence a mis l’accent sur des formes spectaculaires de de´fi et a ainsi contribue´ aux traditionnelles protestations afro-ame´ricaines classiquement enracine´es dans la tradition orale. L’accent mis sur la photographie du parti des Panthe`res Noires permet de constater comment la rhe´torique violente sur laquelle s’est polarise´ ce parti est devenue complexe et impossible a` distinguer de la re´alisation violente. -
Annie Leibovitz Who Is Annie Leibovitz? Who Is Annie Leibovitz?
ANNIE LEIBOVITZ WHO IS ANNIE LEIBOVITZ? WHO IS ANNIE LEIBOVITZ? Annie Leibovitz is an American portrait photographer. She photographed John Lennon on the day he was assassinated, and her work has been used on numerous album covers and magazines. Born: 2 October 1949 (age 68) Awards: Honorary Clio Award, Glamour Award for The Visionary WHERE IS ANNIE LEIBOVITZ FROM? Waterbury, Connecticut, United States HOW ANNIE LEIBOVITZ GOT INTO PHOTOGRAPHY? During a vacation from school, Leibovitz visited her family, then living in the Philippines. She and her mother took a trip to Japan, where she bought a camera and began taking pictures. When she returned to school, Leibovitz enrolled in a night class in photography. "I was totally seduced by the wonderment of it all," she told a writer for Art News. "To see something that afternoon and have it materialize before your eyes that same day. There was a real immediacy to it. I lived in the darkroom." WHAT LOCATIONS / COUNTRIES HAS ANNIE SHOT AT? Annie Leibovitz has shot at various places in the world, one being at Buckingham Palace in the UK, as she did a photoshoot of the queen for the BBC. Leibovitz has also shot various photos for vanity fair which is based in Mayfair, London. Various photos have also been shot in the United States such as in New York where she shot in various places, such as a bar and New York skyline. WHAT ARE THEY TRYING TO COMMUNICATE WITH THEIR WORK? What Annie Leibovitz is trying to communicate with her work is a subject at the time, capturing a subject in the moment. -
Publications Received
Publications Received The information for annotations was provided by the publisher. Adler, K.H. Jews and Gender in Liberation France . New York: Cambridge University Press, 2003. Pp. 273. $60.00. Anderson, Kim, and Bonita Lawrence, eds. Strong Women Stories: Native Vision and Community Survival . Toronto: Sumach Press, 2003. Pp. 248. Paper $22.95. Includes contributions by Zainab Amadahy, Cyndy Baskin, Fay Blaney, Shelly E. Bressette, Nancy Cooper, Rosanna Deerchild, Carl Fernandez, Lita Fontaine, Elize Hartley, Jean Catherine Knockwood, Carole Leclair, Sylvia Maracle, Dawn Martin-Hill, Gertie Mai Muise, Rebecca Martell, Lynn Nicholson, Laura Schwager, and Shandra Spears. Arredono, Gabriela F., Aída Hurtado, Norma Klahn, Olga Nájera- Ramírez, and Patricia Zavella, eds. Chicana Feminisms: A Critical Reader . Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2003. Pp. 408. Paper $23.95. Includes contributions by Norma Alarcón, Ruth Behar, Maylei Blackwell, Norma E. Cantú, Sergio de la Mora, Ann Ducille, Michelle Fine, Rosa Linda Fregoso, Rebecca M. Gámez, Jennifer A. González, Ellie Hernández, Claire Joysmith, Amalia Mesa-Bains, Anna Nietogomez, Renato Rosaldo, Elsa Rosario Sánchez, Marcia Stephenson, and José Manuel Valenzuela Arce. Ayres, Ian. Pervasive Prejudice? Unconventional Evidence of Race and Gender Discrimination . Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2003. Pp. 400. Paper $27.50. Baumel, Judith Tydor, and Tova Cohen, eds. Gender, Place, and Memory in the Modern Jewish Experience: Replacing Ourselves . Portland, Ore.: International Specialized Book Services, 2003. Pp. 297. Paper $26.50. How different memories of different gendered experience affected the Jewish attitudetoward modernity, focusing on pre-war and wartime Europe, the United States, and Israel. 687 688 Publications Received Belzer, Tobin, and Julie Pelc, eds. -
Phaidon New Titles Winter/Spring 2021 Phaidon New Titles Winter/Spring 2021
Phaidon New Titles Winter/Spring 2021 Phaidon New Titles Winter/Spring 2021 phaidon.com Phaidon New Titles Winter/Spring 2021 Photography Food & Cooking Annie Leibovitz: Down the Rabbit Hole 6 Home Farm Cooking 48 The Family Meal: Home Cooking with Ferran Adrià, 10th anniversary edition 50 6 8 12 14 18 Art Australia: The Cookbook 52 Mouths to Feed 54 Catherine Opie 8 The Arabesque Table 56 Don Marron: Collector 10 monk 58 Vitamin D3: Today’s Best in Contemporary Drawing 12 Today’s Special: 20 Leading Chefs Choose Vitamin C: Clay and Ceramic in Contemporary Art 14 100 Emerging Chefs 60 KAWS: WHAT PARTY 16 The Origins of Cooking: Palaeolithic and Neolithic Jim Hodges 18 Cooking 62 How To Become A Successful Artist 20 20 22 24 26 28 Travel Architecture Wallpaper* City Guides 64 Living in Nature 22 Drama 24 Radical Architecture of the Future 26 Children’s Books Architizer 28 Carlo Scarpa 30 Jean Jullien: This is Still Not A Book 68 JR: How Old Am I? 70 Banksy Graffi tied Walls and Wasn’t Sorry. 72 30 32 34 36 38 40 Design & Decorative Arts My Art Book of Friendship 74 Phaidon’s Bestselling Series for Children 76 By Design 32 Patented: 1,000 Design Patents 34 nendo 2016–2020 36 How to Order OWN Iittala 38 Omer Arbel 40 How to Order 78 IT General Interest 42 44 46 48 50 52 Flower Color Theory 42 Own It 44 Jane’s Carousel 46 54 56 58 60 62 68 70 72 74 phaidon.com Annie Leibovitz: Down the Rabbit Hole Annie Leibovitz, with a foreword by Anna Wintour Legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz’s surprising – and surprised – account of her encounters with fashion ‘Looking back at my work, I see that fashion has Key Selling Points 290 × 250 mm ‘Annie seems to travel through the world ‘Leibovitz’s portfolio could serve as a ‘Whether she’s photographing the always been there,’ Annie Leibovitz observes in the - 9 ⅞ × 11 ⅜ inches in the way of a wonderstruck stranger, record of our times.’ – The Telegraph, famous and powerful – or simply preface to her new book, Down the Rabbit Hole.