OFFICIAL GUIDE OF BCN ENGLISH EDITION! ENGLISH 2 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Time Out Barcelona in English The Best April 2015
of BCN MARIA DIAS
Features 14. The most romantic day Barcelona gets all loved up on April 23. Hannah Pennell explains what it’s all about. 20. They’ve got rhythm Groove on down as Marta Salicrù talks to four local funk and soul bands. 24. Time for the chop Need to get your tresses cut? Eugènia Sendra reveals the city’s top hair salons. 26. Temptation calls Laura Conde makes a huge sacriƁ ce and tries out some of BCN’s best chocolate offerings. Love chocolate? Feast on our 28. Put your money away selection of the best choccie treats around p. 26 Many Barcelona museums have free-entry days. Jan Fleischer lists a few to check out.
Regulars 30. Shopping & Style 34. Things to Do 42. The Arts 54. Food & Drink 62. Clubs 64. LGBT
65. Getaways GALLERY 2015. COURTESY GALERIE PERROTIN&PAULA PARIS, SOPHIE CALLE / ADAGAP, We talk to French artist Sophie Calle, as Barcelona Take part in the vermouth revival that is currently 66. BCN Top Ten hosts a retrospective of her work p. 42 taking the city by storm p. 58
Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Impressió LitograƁ a Rosés Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Deputy editor Hannah Pennell | Features & Distribució S.A.D.E.U. web editor María José Gómez | Art director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers Jan Fleischer, Maria Junyent, Dipòsit legal B-26040-2014 Josep Lambies, Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Pol Pareja | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors ISSN 2385-5142 Our cover Marcelo Aparicio, Laia Beltran, Javier Blánquez, Òscar Broc, Ada Castells, Nick Chapman, Irene Fernández, Ivan Giménez, Maria Gorgues, Eulàlia Iglesias, Ricard Mas, Iván IRISNEGRO Moreno, Martí Sales, Carla Tramullas, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Mercedes Arconada [email protected] | Carme Mingo [email protected] | Marketing Clara Narvión [email protected] | Advertising designer Xavi Laborda | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona English edition Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. | All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD®
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 3 The BCN_APR 2015 hot list THURSDAY FRIDAY 02 03 Ruta de la Sal Regatta Rolf y Flor Sailing Family Show of work by Leopold Bilingual Spanish-English Pomés at La Pedrera. show for children. JOSEP MARIA DE LLOBET THURSDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY 09 15 16 Mecal Scott Matthew Tablao Cordobés Film festival Concert Flamenco The CCCB hosts short Australian indie singer The popular venue marks Ɓ lms and animation. performs at L’Auditori. its 45th anniversary. ALFRED FERRER
Lapsus. Festival of national and international Morrissey. British singer was last in BCN in...October DON’T MISS! avant-garde electronic music held at the CCCB. SAT 11 2014! He’s clearly a fan of the city. WED 29
FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY THURSDAY 17 18 20 23 Esperit de Montjuïc BCN Open Banc Sabadell Carmen Sant Jordi Sport Sport Opera Tradition Classic racing cars in Week-long tennis Modern retelling of Celebration of love and action at Catalan track. tournament gets going. Bizet’s epic work. Catalonia’s patron saint. A. BOFILL FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY THURSDAY 24 25 26 30 D’A Festival Shen Yu Espanyol vs. Barça Santa Eulàlia schooner Film Dance Football Sailing Fifth international Show taking in 5,000 Local derby played at RCD Take a three-hour sea trip festival of auteur Ɓ lms. years of Chinese history. Espanyol’s Cornellà pitch. on this historic boat. LA CHAMBRE BLEUE (2014) / MATHIEU AMALRIC LA CHAMBRE BLEUE (2014) / MATHIEU
4 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 5 People of Barcelona Louise Keohane BCN: Bookshop owner, 39 years old TOP SECRET
Begoña García Did you arrive in Barcelona with the idea of setting up a cafe-bookshop? _ To see the 49- No, not at all. I was actually living in Madrid at the time and I was bell 16th-century working for a production company carillon of the on small documentaries and some cinema stuff. But the boss Generalitat Palace, was from Barcelona and she which rings daily wanted to move back here so she said, ‘Look, if you want to come at noon and 6pm, with me, you’ve a job; if not, you’re go to the corner of welcome to stay in Madrid’. And I thought about it a lot, but I came C/Ciutat and C/ and I’m still here. That was eight Hèrcules. and a half years ago. _ Discover a Did you carry on working ‘Roman’ building with her? Yes, for about a year, and then at Bailén, 70. another production company for A 19th-century about six years. And it was in the other company that I made friends reconstruction of with Berta, and the two of us MARIA DIAS a temple, it has wanted to do something different, something that was ours. The books from here, it’s people been a theatre and who are moving Ƃ at, or houses that jeweller’s studio. The idea for the bookshop came are being left empty or people give from throwing around ideas? donations. _ Pròleg bookshop, Well, I studied literature and I’ve always liked books and always had Do people come from all over at Sant Pere Més this idea of owning a second-hand Barcelona? Alt, 46, specialises bookshop. Berta liked the idea of I think so. The impression I get is having a café, so we thought, Why LANDMARK: LA that in the mornings, what we get is in women’s not do both at the same time? CARBONERIA mostly Catalans working in the writing. Francesca Because a second-hand bookshop This squatter’s building is due to area, so they come in here for their is difƁ cult to make a living from. be demolished, but Keohane says coffee. Then at lunchtime it’s Bonnemaison, who The idea was, with Berta coming its murals used to cheer her up. people who want a lighter lunch. fought for girls’ from here and me coming from But in the evening, there’s a abroad, to unite the two worlds a mixture. I think there are people education rights, bit, because you know in who will go out of their way to once lived here. Barcelona the two worlds tend to come, there’s every nationality. I stay separate. So with the food, suppose we get a lot of English _ BCN is home to there’s entrepà de fuet (cured speakers, as well, knowing that many sundials, e.g. sausage sandwich) but carrot they can have a chat because they cake as well. And book clubs haven’t got their Spanish yet. on the Casa de les and meetings, we have some PLACE OF BIRTH: Punxes (Rosselló, in Catalan, some in English. SHANNON What are you reading at the Originally from this town in the moment? 260) and Petritxol, Where do you get your books? west of Ireland, she has also I’m reading Toni Morrison’s Jazz, 17, a surprisingly I brought a lot with me from Ireland, travelled around South America. because we have it for the book and my family do a continuous ‘Lou club on Monday. shady street. needs books’ donation, so every time I go home, I bring books back. –Hannah Pennell
6 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com I love BCN La Rambla/Columbus Pl. Portal de la Pau
See the trees in full leaf on What am I Barcelona’s famous street as you stroll down to see Señor Columbus. doing here?
Jan Fleischer Towering Catalans
This is probably not the best thing to say when writing about castellers, but reading about castellers seems to be a waste of time. What are they? BrieƂ y, they’re people who make human towers (see page 35). Why do they do it? It’s a Catalan tradition, which dates back to around 1712. So don’t question it. Go and check it out. Because you can read descriptions and look at photos and videos, but you won’t know what it’s really like until you’re there. The Ɓ rst time I saw them, I happened upon a group on the Rambla del Raval. Friends were visiting so I made like I took them there on purpose to show them a bit of the local culture. We squinted skyward as the barefoot castellers climbed like koalas up the trunks of their teammates, building this human house of cards that could topple at any minute. I didn’t hear my friends asking questions I was meant to know the answers to, wrapped up as I was in the trembling drama and my train of thought: They must know each other well, judging from all the
MARIA DIAS shimmying up and down of bodies. Oh! Please don’t fall! I wonder what it would be like if they did–. No, terrible thoughts! Please don’t fall! WTF IS... OH! That was close. Heh heh. Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer There was actually a small spill that day, but the crowd’s collective gasp was quieted by the suprisingly effective human cushion around the bottom of the Fideuà tower. Triumph, once again, belonged to the castellers. And the pleasure was all ours. Fideuà (fee-de-WAH) is described by some foreigners as paella with noodles instead of rice. It can be just noodles or Jan is content to be a have seafood or meat. Ideally eaten with allioli (garlic mayo). spectator, not a shimmier.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 7 It’s a can’t-miss – Gaudí’s Sagrada Família... 48 HRS IN BARCELONA
See the city from on high with the Montjuïc cable car...
Sant Pere de les Puel.les or Sant 14:00-16:30 Agusti Vell. The Born is an area 09:00-11:30 Down in the Born that’s packed with boutiques where Trees and parks Start at the Born Centre Cultural you can pick up some designer COOL HUNTING Start your day with a big (Pl. Comercial, 12), an iron and shoes or one-of-a-kind gifts to bring breakfast among the tree-lined glass structure built in 1876 as a home. As you’re strolling through Once called the ‘Barrio streets of the Esquerra Eixample. market. From there you can stop in the streets, keep your eye out for Chino’, the Raval has inspired Velodromo (Muntaner, 213) to the spectacular Santa Maria del Ivori (Mirallers, 7), an exquisite many a writer. Nowadays, it’s opens at 6am, for those of you Mar church (Pl. de Santa Maria, 1), shop with local designs, On Land a place where local really keen to get going, while a local favourite and setting for (Princesa, 25), where men and businesses thrive in the form Travel & Cake (Rosselló, 189), many a wedding. Just next to that is women both can Ɓ nd new threads, of unique shops and opens every day from 9am and the Fossar de les Moreres, a and Studiostore (Comerç, 17), with restaurants, while still has an eclectic menu of sweet square that might not be much to everything from clothes and maintaining some of its and savoury options. Once look at, but which has great eyewear to original cushions. seedy underworld glamour. you’ve got your energy levels up, signiƁ cance to the people of Urban culture is booming jump on public transport and Barcelona; it was built over a here, alongside gems such as head up to Gaudí’s natural cemetery where those who died 20:00-23:30 the CCCB and Filmoteca. wonder, Park Güell – book in Ɓ ghting to defend the city in the It’s time to eat advance on www.parkguell.cat to Siege of Barcelona in 1714 were For dinner, try the Asian tapas at ensure you get in to the buried. The square features an Mosquito (Carders, 46) – they’ll to just one restaurant but can graze ‘monumental’ zone and save a eternal Ƃ ame to honour the melt in your mouth. Always a sure from a buffet of 16. To top off the euro. Bonus! memory of the fallen. thing is eating in one of the city’s night, head in the direction of the fresh markets, such as the Santa sea and have a drink in Absenta Caterina market (Av. Francesc (Sant Carles, 36) and you’re sure to 12:00-14:00 17:00-19:30 Cambo, 16) with its attention- get a good night’s sleep, the more Gracious living Sustenance and shopping drawing rooftop, or the Mercat upscale Zahara Cocktail Club (Pg. Grab a bite down the hill in Stop for a break in one of the Born’s Princesa (Flassaders, 21), where Joan de Borbó, 69) or Café de los Gràcia, at the woodsy and lesser-known squares, such as you don’t have to limit your choice Angelitos (Almirall Cervera, 26). spacious Café Salambó (Torrijos,
DID YOU KNOW? Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, is also the patron of leprosy, plague, herpes and syphilis sufferers. Renaissance man.
8 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN BARCELONA. HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S ESSENTIALS
Barceloneta has terraces, restaurants and amazing sea views...
51) or at La Pubilla (Pl. de la (Diagonal, 332). Alternatively, walk around the plentiful gardens, Llibertat, 23), specialising in old- take the metro from the Sagrada 19:30-02:00 including the Jardins del Teatre school local food, or if the Família (L5) down to Diagonal Big night out Grec (Pg. Santa Madrona, 39) and weather’s nice, in a square such and stroll down Passeig de Try the out-of-this-world double the Jardins Laribal (Pg. Santa as Plaça del Diamant or Plaça de Gràcia to just hit the terrace of Invisible-Pizza Ravalo Madrona, 2), including the Colla de la Virreina. While you’re in the modernisme biggies: La (Pl. Emili Vendrell, 1), Teresa l’Arròs rose gardens, at their most area, have a look around for Pedrera (Provença, 261), Casa Carles for a healthy vegetarian picturesque in late spring. some unusual souvenirs in the Amatller (Pg. de Gràcia, 41) and option (Jovellanos, 2), or the shop-lined streets – suggestions Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). Mediterranean banquet that is Lo include Pinc Store for clothes de Flor (Carretes, 18). After lining 13:00-15:00 (Encarnació, 24) and Magnesia your stomach, get a couple of drinks End on a beach spot (Torrent de l’Olla, 192) or Mueblé in Negroni or Tahiti, both in the bar- Take the cable car from Montjuïc to Martínez de la Rosa, 34) for laden C/Joaquín Costa (46 and 39, Barceloneta, where you can relax homewares. WANDER OFF respectively), and then ease on with a vermouth and a paella. Most down to the dance Ƃ oors at Apolo, restaurants in Barceloneta Many Barcelona visitors Marula or other area clubs, before specialise in seafood, taking 14:30-18:00 stick to the central areas, calling it a night. advantage of the nearby sea. Also Explore modernisme but the city is so much more. due to the prime real estate, some Next stop: the Sagrada Família. Gràcia is full of life at all of the better spots aren’t cheap, but Gaudí’s masterpiece gets very hours of the day, Sarrià 10:00-12:00 if you’re feeling Ƃ ush, they’re worth crowded, but take your time to retains much of its historical Mountain climbing it. Try Can Solé (Sant Carles, 4), La appreciate his vision. Once small-town ambience, while Head to the ‘mountain’ of Montjuïc. Mar Salada (Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58) done, walk over to Av. Diagonal Poble-sec and Sant Antoni Depending on what you’re in the or El Suquet de l’Almirall (Pg. Joan to keep the modernisme theme are currently the places to mood for, you can visit the Joan Miró de Borbó, 65). A great place for the going by stopping at Casa de les be, especially for their top Foundation (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n) more budget-conscious, with a Punxes (Rosselló, 260), Palau cuisine and quality or the National Museum of huge terrace and fresh, scrummy del Baró de Quadras (Diagonal, entertainment. Contemporary Art (MNAC) (Palau dishes to go with their relaxed vibe 373) and Casa Planells Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc, s/n), or is Santa Marta (Grau i Torras, 59).
Barça fans wanting to keep in with the tradition of rose-giving on the day of Sant Jordi can buy stems in the blue-and-red colours of their team.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 9 Tourism Desk
Barcelona... just a click away Find more than 200 suggestions to suit a wide range of tastes
BCN/ART a journey Articket through a Barcelona: thousand years of creativity by visiting the one ticket, following museums: Picasso Museum, Joan Miró six museums Foundation, MNAC, CCCB, MACBA and Antoni Tàpies In April, Barcelona means Foundation – all with one love, roses and books. But ticket. it’s also a great time to Get 5 percent off when you discover the best art in the buy the Articket at city. If you’re an art lover, take bcnshop.com. Barcelona is a vibrant, Segway, which cover both the city cosmopolitan city that offers centre and the lesser-known visitors a wealth of different neighbourhoods; running tours products and services. You will be and gastronomic excursions; A BREATH OF FRESH AIR... surprised at what you can Ɓnd panoramic hop-on hop-off bus when you visit the bcnshop.com tours or themed routes through website and the Turisme de speciƁc districts; cooking Barcelona Tourist Information workshops, wine and chocolate Points around the city. tasting, or craft workshops for the There are many ways to visit little ones; visits to historic Barcelona – in the company of buildings like the Palau de la friends, or with your family or Música, or to museums, taking partner – and a multitude of advantage of the Articket (see reasons to come here: the right) or Barcelona Card, with culture, cuisine, music, art... free transport and discounts; Whether you’re planning to and babysitting services, In the mountains: On the coast: see the best-known attractions wheelchair, pram and pushchair Pyrenees Costa Brava or you’re looking for a truly hire, in addition to the standard Enjoy pure nature in a rustic A perfect place for beach lovers: special experience, at left-luggage services and airport ambience of stone houses and small coves of crystal-clear bcnshop.com you will Ɓnd more transfers. slate roofs. Don’t miss Vall de waters, pine glades, charming than 200 suggestions to suit a There are many Barcelonas to Núria, a lovely valley surrounded Ɓshing villages, great gastronomy wide range of tastes. explore. Which one is yours? by 3,000m-high mountains – and much more. And all just a You’re here to see Barcelona, Discover the full range of ideal for a day out of the city. stone’s throw from Barcelona. but how will you get around? Here possibilities on offer by visiting are just a few ideas. There are bcnshop.com. Buy your tickets at bcnshop.com. guided tours on foot, by bicycle or with special vehicles like the bcnshop.com
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Book the best restaurants Enjoy a wide range of choices and top dishes across the city MARIA DIAS MARIA DIAS Find out what’s on Buy your tickets Get the latest info on what to do while you’re Theatre, Ɓlm, dance, festivals, concerts, here in town kids shows... On our website you’ll Ɓnd details about what’s on right now, and up-to- You can also buy tickets to the city’s biggest events through our website, date news about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you events added each day, you’ll have no excuse not to have fun. can get discounts, get your tickets early and beneƁt from special offers.
Discover top ideas for exploring outside Barcelona: where to eat, what to Explore the bustling and varied neighbourhoods of Barcelona do... at www.timeout.com/barcelona/getaways. at www.timeout.com/barcelona/by-area.
12 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 13 SANT JORDI: A BOOK AND CITY OF A ROSE LOVERS
Sant Jordi (aka Saint George) is the patron saint of Catalonia, and although his feast day on April 23 isn’t a public holiday, it’s always a celebration. Don’t expect knights clutching swords or dragons dripping blood: it’s a day for lovers, authors and rose stalls.Tradition dictates a rose for her and a book for him. But nowadays the rules are more flexible – women like to read too! Balconies are draped with Catalan flags, and crowds stroll the streets, while restaurants are booked out by couples seeking a romantic table for two. By Hannah Pennell
14 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 01 CITY OF WRITERS READ ALL ABOUT IT BOOKS In the days leading up to April 23, the matter of the weather forecast ON BCN becomes crucial. There is nothing RODOREDA’S worse than a rainy Sant Jordi – so much of the joy of the day comes from wandering the streets (or, rather, BCN Ɓ ghting your way through the crowds) and perusing the bookstalls. However, By Andreu Gomila as you’ll soon notice, most of the tomes on sale are in the two ofƁ cial languages of the region, Catalan and Spanish. If you’re keen to purchase, but not so Uncertain Glory Mercè Rodoreda, one of certain of your language skills, here are Joan Sales Catalonia’s leading 20th-century four English-language bookshops to try MacLehose Press writers, used to invite her friends to – Come In and BCN Books sell new €14 La Punyalada, an iconic restaurant books, Babelia, second-hand and on the corner of Passeig de Gràcia
Hibernian, a mix of both. MORENO IVÁN with Rosselló, which closed down Hibernian. Montseny, 17 16 years ago. This habit began ⓣ 93 217 47 96 occupied the third Ƃ oor of a when she moved to the Costa www.hibernian-books.com 16th-century building close to the old Brava after her return from exile in Come In. Balmes, 129 port – it still stands, although the Switzerland. She had fled Catalonia ⓣ 93 453 12 04 remaining original features are few. for Europe following the arrival of www.libreriainglesa.com The Gray Cervantes home. Pg. de Colom, 2 Franco’s troops in Barcelona. But BCN Books. Roger de Llúria, 118 Notebook www.unesco.org prior to 1939, Rodoreda’s world ⓣ 93 457 76 92 Josep Pla essentially covered Sant Gervasi www.bcnbooks.com NYRB Classics and Gràcia, although the Raval and Babelia. Villarroel, 27 €12 03 Gòtic areas did hold a few places ⓣ 93 424 66 81 ROSES ARE RED (SOMETIMES) special to her. La Colometa, www.babeliabcn.com If you’re here on April 23, you will wake protagonist of her 1962 book La to Ɓ nd every corner of the city (or so it plaça del Diamant (In Diamond seems) has been taken over by rose- Square, 2013), lived on C/ 02 sellers; not just Ƃ orists but also clubs Montseny in Gràcia, and Teresa IT’S NOT JUST A DAY OF BOOKS and associations, charities, students Valldaura, the heroine of Mirall HERE IN CATALONIA and ordinary folk(s) wanting to raise trencat (1974; A Broken Mirror) in UNESCO has made April 23 World Book Confessions some cash – they all become street- Sant Gervasi. The author claimed and Copyright Day (not to be confused Jaume Cabré sellers for a day. Six million of the that she herself was born ‘in a with World Book Day on March 5), since Arcadia Books Ƃ owers, or about 40 percent of yearly short, narrow street that, at the it was the day in 1616 when William €15 rose sales, will be bought during the time, ran from C/Pàdua to the Shakespeare died and Miguel day, and not only for wives, girlfriends stream in Sant Gervasi and was Cervantes was buried (he died the and mistresses. Grandmothers, called C/ de Sant Antoni. Later on, previous day). Although there is no mothers, work colleagues, teachers – the name of the street was (known) Shakespeare connection with they might all be presented with a red changed to París, and later on Barcelona, the Spanish author of Don bloom, if they’re lucky. And that really is again, to Manuel Angelon.’ Quixote certainly lived and worked here. the operative word, with a single stem Rodoreda was, in fact, born at C/ For instance, he is said to have selling for at least €3. The great Balmes, 340, and when she arrived majority you’ll see are red, but you can from Geneva, she bought a house also Ɓ nd blue, yellow and white, as well just opposite. as rose-themed sweets, jewellery and She spent her childhood in the area soaps. Canny romantics know that at between Ronda General Mitre and the end of the day, roses will be half C/Guillem Tell, where Mirall trencat is price (and probably half wilted, too), so set. At Gran de Gràcia, 25, the Cafè if you want to join the tradition but will Monumental once stood, the site of be heading home on Friday 24, you one of the happier scenes in La might want to buy then. plaça del Diamant, Natàlia’s dance Nearly every street corner in BCN. with Quimet and Mateu. The Liceu opera house, Bagués jeweller’s (located in the 04 modernista Casa Ametller at Pg. de SHOCK NEWS! PROSTITUTES Gràcia, 41), and the Ateneu KEEP CLOTHES ON Barcelonès, where in 1937 she Created in New York City, the Poetry received the Crexells prize for Brothel has had its hookers in Aloma, also form part of the Barcelona for the past six years. The Rodoreda universe. It’s a place that original premise saw clients come to has disappeared. the joint for an up-close-and-personal reading from one of their international
www.timeout.com/barcelona 15 poets, although today they’ve expanded their repertoire to include the publication of original writing and BOOKS workshops. Check their website for details of what’s happening this month. ON BCN Prostibulo Poético www.prostibulopoetico.com 05 FOR WHEN YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT We all have our little obsessions. They’re nothing to be ashamed of. And if you’re looking for a book, but only the Journal du right book will do, we’re pleased to say voleur that Barcelona is served by various Jean Genet specialised bookstores. Altaïr is a two- Folio Ƃoor travel bookshop with maps, travel €8 journals and a lot of guides, including many in English. Comic-book emporium Llibreria Universal will make you feel like a character in The Big Bang Theory, with its extensive racks of comics (including a range of international imports) to Ƃick through. Finally, when Loring Art opened in 1996, it had about Don Quixote 100 titles in stock – today it’s nearer Miguel Cervantes 20,000, which includes a good number Oxford World’s of English-language coffee table tomes. Classics Altaïr. Gran Via de les Corts €10 Catalanes, 616 ⓣ 93 342 71 71 www.altair.es Llibreria Universal. Ronda Sant Antoni, 9 ⓣ 93 443 32 68 www.universal-comics.com Loring Art. Gravina, 8 The Savage ⓣ 93 412 01 08 Detectives www.loring-art.com Roberto Bolaño Picador 06 €8 FACTS AND FIGURES Last year, Swedish writer Jonas Jonasson hit the big time, Sant Jordi– a day, seven days a week. Because you style, by heading the list of most sold just never know when you might need an Ɓction books in Catalan, and was emergency bunch of carnations, right? second on the same list but for the Mercat de la Concepció. València, 320 Spanish language, with his work The IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS ⓣ 675 693 616 Girl Who Saved the King of Sweden www.laconcepcio.cat (both translated versions of his book, Want to Ɓnd out more about clearly). The best-seller lists for April Barcelona’s writerly past? From 23 are no small matter – the Catalan the sea to the Eixample, from La 08 Bookseller’s Association reckoned that Rambla to Montjuïc, this city has DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM? in 2014 some 1.6 million books were housed authors, poets and Lining up to have your newly bought bought in Catalonia, worth almost €20 cultural leaders who wrote, book signed is a Sant Jordi tradition. million and a 5 percent rise on 2013. argued, drank and read (not Any author who has a book just out will necessarily in that order). Choose be shepherded around the city to spend the book Walks Through Literary an hour or so in temporary marquees 07 Barcelona (2005, Ediciones set up by the local chain bookshops, ROSES ARE RED (PART 2) Peninsula) as your Sant Jordi gift greeting fans and writing a dedication While the day of Sant Jordi is clearly and discover some of the places to their cat or great-aunt on the inside crucial to the business of local Ƃorists, that inspired, welcomed and title page. It’s always poignant to see it’s not as if they rest on their laurels the taught them, thanks to its 16 those writers who are, let’s say, a little other 364 days of the year. At the Ƃower walking tours through the city. less well-known, sitting patiently, market of La Concepció, just off Passeig tapping their pen and trying not to throw de Gràcia, the stalls are open 24 hours envious glances at their neighbour’s
16 www.timeout.com/barcelona table with the queues that run round so much easier), and now on at the the back of the marquee. If you’re Palau Robert is an exhibition paying CITY OF WRITERS feeling charitable, you could always give BOOKS tribute to the profession of the librarian them a napkin to sign for ‘your friend in Catalonia. who’s a big fan’. ON BCN Palau Robert. Pg. de Gràcia, 107 Rambla de Catalunya, Plaça ⓣ 93 238 80 91 MARSÉ’S Catalunya, in front of big bookshops. www.palaurobert.gencat.cat BCN 09 12 THE WRITING’S ON THE WALL WILL THE REAL SANT JORDI By Carlos Zanón and A. Gomila Currently showing in BCN are PLEASE STAND UP? exhibitions dedicated to two signiƁcant Of course, we don’t really believe that writers of the 20th century who both there was a dragon and a princess, or died prematurely. German author W.G. Rue des voleurs a rose bush that sprung up from where The territory of Barcelona writer Sebald was killed in a car crash in Mathias Énard the creature’s blood had spilled. Juan Marsé comprises the 2001, but the works he wrote in the Babel Giorgios was a Greek-Palestinian neighbourhoods of Gràcia, Guinardó years just prior to that are regarded as €8.70 Christian who served in the Roman and Carmel, with such landmarks exemplary reƂections on the 20th army in the third century AD. He never as Plaça Rovira, the Church of Sant century, questioning its history, came anywhere near Catalonia. Right – Miquel dels Sants (C/Escorial, literature and art. Over at the MACBA, just try telling that to the people of 163), the streets of Secretari Argentinian writer Osvaldo Lamborghini, Montblanc, a small town in the province Coloma and Torrent de les Flors, the who died in Barcelona aged just 45, is of Tarragona, and the place, legend has Mühlberg bridge (built in 1991 over the focus. He published only three it, where Jordi actually killed the dragon. a space left by a former quarry), the books during his lifetime, but is Montblanc celebrates his triumph with tunnels of the Hospital Sant Pau, regarded as a cult author in his home Lost Luggage ten days of medieval festivities, Plaça del Nord and Plaça de country and across Europe. Jordi Puntí including a traditional market, jester Sanllehy. To get into the shoes of Sebald Variations – CCCB. Short Books Ltd competition and re-enactment of the Teresa, star of Juan Marsé’s 1966 Montalegre, 5 €9 monster slaying. novel, Últimas tardes con Teresa ⓣ 93 306 41 00 Montblanc, Tarragona. (Last Evenings with Teresa), head to www.cccb.org www.montblancmedieval.cat Delicias (Mühlberg, 1) and order Osvaldo Lamborghini – MACBA. their patatas bravas. Or to Tibet Pl. dels Àngels, 1 restaurant (Ramiro de Maeztu, 34), ⓣ 93 412 08 10 13 where she was treated to dinner by www.macba.cat ROSES ARE RED (LAST TIME!) her lover Pijoaparte. Why do Catalans gift red roses on April In Lesseps, the former Rex Bartleby & Co. 23? Why not? Documents from the Cinema was the hang-out of the 10 Enrique Vila- 15th century mention the custom of prostitutes who mothered the poor FILL YOUR STOMACH AS WELL AS Matas noblemen presenting women with the children in Si te dicen que caí (If YOUR SPIRIT Vintage Ƃower, with some suggesting it They Tell You I Fell, 1973). The Manuel Vázquez Montalbán created €9 coincided with a Rose Fair held at the draper’s belonging to protagonist one of the most emblematic Ɓctional time. The concept gradually spread to Java is on C/Secretari Coloma. And Barcelona characters in Pepe Carvalho other parts of society, and became one of Marsé’s most brilliant – private detective, native of Galicia and ‘ofƁcial’ in 1914. Roses given today characters, Captain Blay from El gourmand. Even though Montalbán are adorned with a Catalan Ƃag and a embrujo de Shanghai (The died in 2003, many of the restaurants wheat stalk to represent fertility in Shanghai Spell, 1993), lived at that he, and Carvalho, frequented are partnership with the passion number 8 iin C/Sant Salvador. still open and are city classics. symoblised by the red rose. Teresa’s mother believed that Casa Leopoldo. Sant Rafael, 24 ‘Monte Carmelo [Pijoaparte’s ⓣ 93 441 30 14 neighbourhood] was something like www.casaleopoldo.com the Congo, a remote and subhuman Senyor Paraellada. Argenteria, 37 country with its own, different laws’. ⓣ 93 310 50 94 In fact, Carmel has long been a www.senyorparellada.com ‘normal’ neighbourhood in the Ca l’Isidre. Flors, 12 district of Guinardó. And, it has to be ⓣ 93 441 11 39 said, it’s never been anything like www.calisidre.com the Congo. Nowadays, it enjoys the splendour of the El Carmel-Juan Marsé Municipal Library (Murtra, 11 135), specialising in Marsé’s works BOOK PEOPLE and Barcelona novels. Built on top What do Marcel Duchamp, Mao Zedong of an old landfill site, it now has and Giacomo Casanova have in pride of place in an area that was common? Before they found their true already proud. As Spanish writer calling that made them (in)famous, they Enrique Vila-Matas has said, the all worked as librarians. It’s a noble streets of Marsé seem to exist, but trade, this one of caring for and Ɓling actually only he really knows them. hundreds of tomes (we salute you,
Melvil Dewey, for making that little task MORENO IVÁN
www.timeout.com/barcelona 17 8 RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONA WHERE YOU CAN GET INTO THE ROMANTIC SPIRIT OF THE DAY WITH YOUR SWEETHEART. BY MANEL GUIRADO
‘I LOVE YOU’
EN APARTÉ LE CUCINE MANDAROSSO PLA TORRE ALTA MAR If you associate supper à deux Lunch at Le Cucine Mandarosso Even from the outside it’s clear When it comes to seducing your with a French-tinged theme, then with friends or family is a Ɓ ne that Pla has got the intimate other half, the surprise factor can En Aparté is an excellent place idea, but dinner can feel strange. restaurant vibe sorted. You get make all the difference. Greeting to go. Located in a small square Very strange, thanks to the there through the narrow, humid your partner in your underwear close to the Arc de Triomf, its intimate ambience it emanates streets of the Gòtic area, to and a rose between your teeth is, wines, cheeses and Parisian that makes it seem suited only enter a place that’s dimly lit, of course, an option. But inviting atmosphere will ensure a perfect for a night out with your lover. But well-decorated, informal but them to a restaurant situated at night of love. And one that’s it’s by no means a rose-Ɓ lled elegant, and with a style of the top of a cable car tower is a considerably cheaper than going premises – rather a casual spot cooking to match. The desserts deƁ nite game-changer. It’s not to the actual French capital. Who with retro furniture, books and and wines are excellent the cheapest place on our list, said romance was dead? products on the shelves, and complements, and laudable in but there’s no doubt that treating Lluís el Piadós, 2 Italian cooking that is the their own right. your lover to dinner there will ⓣ 93 269 13 35 epitome of sensuality. $GNNCƁNCⓣ 93 412 65 52 demonstrate your true feelings. www.enaparte.es Verdaguer i Callís, 4 www.elpla.cat Pg. de Joan de Borbó, 88 ⓣ 93 269 07 80 ⓣ 93 221 44 60 GURQUI www.lecucinemandarosso.com RECASENS www.torredealtamar.com Imagine a place that’s a mix This one-time neighbourhood between a restaurant in a BOHÈMIC charcuterie was converted WAGOKORO Woody Allen movie and a Cuban If Bohèmic has made a name for ten years ago into a place Kenia Nakamura and Anna paladar (family-run eatery). itself, it’s thanks to its intention for eating with a modernista Perayre are the duo behind this Gurqui is that place. A typically to revive the bistrot tradition and aesthetic, featuring old photos inviting restaurant where the atmospheric Eixample basement a way of serving food that on the walls and small, softly lit menu is dominated by kaiseki, a decorated with antique furniture, seemed on the way out – the art spaces. Enjoy a supper of style of Japanese cooking that it’s an intimate venue with an nouveau air of the restaurant, select cured meats (embotits), sees dishes vary throughout the intellectual air and excellent the food presented en cocotte cheeses, fondues, salads (as a year, depending on what’s in food, such as foie gras, veal Ɓ llet (casserole) and served up in token gesture of health) and a season. The couple have created and fresh Ɓ sh of the day. If you front of you, the cheese trolley... lot of wine. You may need to a harmonious menu, one that is reserve, they’ll let you stay later This is a local, family-run come up with some way to burn thoughtful, aesthetic, ceremonial than the ofƁ cial kitchen closing restaurant that will help you off all those calories, if you get and stripped of any pretensions. time of midnight, allowing you to remember why you fell in love in our meaning. Forget music, this A gastronomic and a life project. stretch out the romantic moment the Ɓ rst place. Or explain why is the true food of love. An ideal choice for (re)kindling that bit longer. you’re about to. Rbla. del Poblenou, 102 a relationship. Mallorca, 303 ⓣ 93 458 52 16 Manso, 42 ⓣ 93 300 81 23 Regàs, 35 ⓣ 93 501 93 40 www.gurqui.com ⓣ 93 424 06 28 www.canrecasens.com www.wagokoro.es
18 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 19 GROOVE IS IN THE HEART BY MARTA SALICRÚ. PHOTOS: IVÁN MORENO
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: ADRIÀ GUAL, DANIEL SEGURA, KOKO-JEAN DAVIS, MARC BENAIGES, LALO LÓPEZ (THE EXCITEMENTS); SARA PI; RAUL PÉREZ, FRANK MONTASELL, HÉCTOR MORAS, MARINA BBFACE TORRES (MARINA BBFACE & THE BEATROOTS); GUILLAMINO; RAPH DUMAS; JOAN VERGÉS, AYA SIMA, ADRIANA PRUNELL (THE PEPPER POTS). Gual, guitarist and founding member just be ourselves.’ The quartet she Middle Ages, up until 1659; as a of The Excitements, alongside fronts was one of the headliners at BLACKCELONA result some Catalans refer to it bassist Dani Segura, to explain the the third Blackcelona Explosion!, Ferran Amado, today as North Catalonia). In 2008, SOMETIMES THE STARS buzz that arose around their second Barcelona’s festival of soul, funk and who founded Dumas, who made a name for album compared to their debut, boogaloo, and at the end of this Blackcelona as himself with his fusion of electric COME INTO ALIGNMENT, which came out in 2010. ‘The result month they’re on-stage at the Palau a platform for and traditional music on Coblism is it’s a lot better than the Ɓrst,’ says de la Música (see next page). the city’s funk (2011), revived The Primaveras, the AND A WAVE OF and soul music, Segura. When they recorded that Guillamino has also taken a new got involved in rhythm and soul group his Ɓrst album they’d hardly played live, direction, but then the Barcelona- order to raise grandfather had founded in the MUSICIANS TUNE INTO A but now they’re old hands at gigging. based singer, best known for years the groups’ ’60s, working with musicians from Between one album and the next as an electronic crooner, has made visibility. ‘This is Perpignan and Toulouse. ‘I started COMMON SOUND. THAT’S they racked up almost 100 gigs a constant mutation his trademark. Barcelona’s real the project on my own, using year, travelling all over Europe, and His most recent album, Un altre jo underground,’ he samples,’ explains Dumas: today WHAT’S HAPPENED WITH they’ve assembled a repertoire of (Another Me), shows off his most says. he re-creates the samples on their own songs that takes in ‘all the soulful side. It was produced with traditional instruments with The FOUR CATALAN GROUPS, different colours of rhythm & blues the accompaniment of The Control THE SCENE Primaveras of the 21st century. and soul’, in the words of Koko-Jean Z’s, an eight-piece that adds funky ‘We needed to ‘We’ve ended up with ten WHICH ALL DRAW ON Davis, their petite and powerfully brass to Guillamino’s regular band, put groups in musicians.’ Their second LP, voiced singer. plus backing vocals courtesy of touch with each Catalunya Soul, came out in January THE FUNK AND SOUL Gual and Segura set up the group members of The Gramophone other, create 2014. ‘For us, in the south of after taking their previous band The Allstars. ‘My last album (Fang, a scene,’ says France, it’s really important to stand Amado. And TRADITION. Fabulous Ottomans as far as it could 2011) was very electric,’ he the cross- up for our Catalan identity,’ says go. ‘It’s tough making a living from explains, ‘and since I’d already fertilisation Dumas. His band includes a tibla music. People had day jobs, which recorded a soul track, “La vida” [the typical of any and a tenora, traditional Catalan meant they couldn’t always play Ɓrst single from Les minves de gener scene happens woodwind instruments that are On September 23, 2013, exactly 24 gigs. It was holding us back,’ (2008)], I had unƁnished business: in Barcelona too: more commonly used in cobles – hours after the vernal equinox that explains Gual. And they really to make a whole album in the same the photo above these are groups of musicians who marks the start of autumn, wanted to give it their all. ‘We went vein.’ The group’s name, referring to also features accompany dancers of the sardana, members of funk Barcelona-based rhythm & soul outƁt into this intending to give it 100 the Ctrl + Z ‘undo’ function on a Catalonia’s circular folk dance. The Excitements took to the main groups Cardova percent commitment,’ says Davis, a computer keyboard, wasn’t chosen and Chocadelia And while Dumas fuses soul and stage at the city’s annual La Mercè Mozambican with Catalan roots. And at random. It turns out they’re the Internacional. the Catalan cobla, Sara Pi does the festival to offer a sneak peek at the things continue to look rosy for the only digital element on the entire same with contemporary R&B and songs from their second album, formation: after packing out album: it was recorded using strictly the Brazilian tradition. ‘We Ɓnd this Sometimes Too Much Ain’t Enough. Barcelona’s Auditori in March, this analogue technology at the studio of TRADITION fusion of Brazilian music and nu-soul Barely a week later, October 1 saw month sees them play Festimad in The Pepper Pots, live and on tape. ‘If The featured the most natural thing in the world,’ musicians are the release of Wake Up, from nu-soul Madrid before the summer festival we’re going to do it, let’s do it right: says Pi – the sound juxtaposes her vocalist and Barcelona native Sara old-school purists seasons kicks off in earnest, the old-fashioned way.’ Guillamino who use vintage interest in soul with the musical Pi. November 5 saw the digital including an appearance at PopArb took the idea of making an analogue equipment, background of her co-writer, Brazilian release of Un altre jo, the newest at the end of June. record to such an extreme that not revisionists who producer Érico Moreira. Together album from Guillamino and his most After 20 years with Girona band even the disc’s promotional photos want to update they composed all the songs on her soulful work to date. November 12 The Pepper Pots (which disbanded were digital. tradition, and most recent album Wake Up, which was the launch date for We Must at the end of last year), Marina The group went into the studio others who premiered at the Liceu opera house Fight, from Girona’s purveyors of old- Torres left the group to start Marina after only a couple of rehearsals believe in total in November 2013 as part of the school soul, The Pepper Pots. Can freedom, without BBface & The Beatroots. ‘I wanted and a couple of gigs, one of them labels. Músiques Sensibles cycle, with an this all be just a coincidence? How to start a funk and soul group with over the border in Roussillon, eight-piece backing band for the did Catalonia develop this booming no hang-ups, somewhere we could organised by French-Catalan DJ and occasion. That’s right: the sounds of funk and soul scene? Ready? let ourselves go, without all our producer Raph Dumas (the region home-grown funk and soul have Steady? Then let’s groove… musical baggage,’ says Torres. ‘I around the Rousillon city of reached the foyer of the Liceu, ‘The difference is the experience wanted to get away from the Perpignan was part of the Barcelona’s most exclusive venue. we’ve accumulated,’ says Adrià straitjacket of a speciƁc genre and Principality of Catalunya in the And this is only the beginning.
21 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com HEAR THEM SING
BY MARTA SALICRÚ
with three new songs added, came together. These collective which showed a new maturity backgrounds bring with them not and attention to detail, thanks MORE! only experience but also a in no small part to a bigger tremendous range of sounds and budget available to Pi following inƂuences such as funk, soul, rock a signing with Sony Music. MARULA CAFÉ and psychedelia. See them play It was no accident that this month at Palau de la Música THE EXCITEMENTS the group photo at the on Saturday 25 (9pm, €12). Sometimes Too Much start of this report was Ain’t Enough (2013) taken in this Gòtic area THE PRIMAVERAS venue. Marula, now open Catalunya Soul (2014) Ɓve years, has become From the youngest to the oldest. Barcelona’s temple of This band was originally formed in GUILLAMINO blues, soul and funk thanks to its concerts and 1952, but in its present form has Un altre jo (2013) DJ sessions. been around since 2008, when DJ With a proƁle similar to that of Escudellers, 49 and producer Ralph Dumas, who Mayer Hawthorne and Jamie www.marulacafe.com comes from the French town of Lidell, white ‘soulmen’ who Perpignan just over the border, emerged from electronica and hip JAMBOREE resurrected the project – he’s the hop, the versatile Catalan artist grandson of The Primaveras Beneath Plaça Reial you’ll Pau ‘Guillamino’ Guillamet is now Ɓnd this, the best place in original founder, Jo Dejuan. The showing off his most funky self. the city to hear live jazz. new Primaveras are notable for He’s employed the ser vices of a But it’s also a dance club their inclusion of classic Catalan brass section and the singer Judit ‘Early soul’ is how this band’s for R&B and hip hop from wind instruments, the tibla and the Neddermann (members of The music is generally described – residents Flavio Rodríguez tenora. Hear the result on their Gramophone Allstars), doubling R&B combined with the energy of and DJ Yoda. second album, Catalunya Soul. the size of his band in the gospel and channelled through the Plaça Reial, 17 www.masimas.com/ THE PEPPER POTS process. A great move in these vocal cords of Koko-Jean Davis, jamboree times of crisis. ‘I got myself into whose sound is pure ’50s. The We Must Fight (2013) trouble,’ he admits. But when you Excitements are old-school and Although they disbanded in listen to the album, it’s clear that proud of it. This is their second BOILER/MOVIN’ ON December 2014, this Girona the trouble was totally worth it. album, but the Ɓrst that features Cristina Alonso, together group forged itself a place in their own original material, with with Jordi Duró at Boiler, Catalan musical history, with their songs by the group and Enric and Eduardo Domingo and successful decade making soul Marcos Juandó at Movin’ Bosser, a master craftsman from On, are behind two of the music, resulting in six albums. Penniman Records, the renowned oldest soul clubs in BCN, Motown trios of the ’60s were an soul label that produces them. It which have regular visits early inƂuence, but they later was this material that truly from international DJs. renewed themselves to have a established them on the scene. Jazz Room (Pl. Adrià s/n) more ’70s-like vibe, with a harder www.theboilerclub.com look and sound, witnessed on MARINA BBFACE & THE BEATROOTS www.facebook.com/ their farewell record. MovinOnBarcelona Time to Begin (2014) As the youngest group on this particular roll call, it wasn’t until BLACKCELONA last year that they released any This group has been recorded material when Time to promoting soul, funk SARA PI Begin came out. The eponymous and groove in BCN since Wake Up (2013) Marina began her career as a 2012, and organising concerts and festivals Although her last album came soloist with The Pepper Pots (see featuring local musicians. out in 2013, it was actually below), and her Beatroot www.blackcelona.cat recorded at Pi’s home and self- bandmates had similarly produced in 2011 under the established CVs with local groups title Burning. However, two (Cardova, Cocadelia Internacional years later, it was re-released and Sol Lagarto) when they all
22 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 23 LET YOUR ROOM 28 HAIR DOWN! MARIA DIAS BARCELONA’S Fresh ideas Style supremos Hairdressing in Spain was hit hard by the VAT It’s hard not to venerate the Ɓgure of Vidal hike on their services in September 2012 – up Sassoon, but closer to home there’s a long BEST SALONS from 8 to 21 percent – but despite the negative list of Barcelona-based master hairdressers impact across the sector, new salons are still who have left their mark on the city – names opening. Room 28 (Llibertat, 28) offers wall like Cebado, Iranzo, Lluís Llongueras and space to emerging artists looking for an Raffel Pages, among others. But instead of FOR A WASH, audience. Owners Nerea Vázquez and Vanessa one of their many branches, we prefer the Pérez argue that art, beauty and creativity are mezzanine salon of Marcelpel (València, inextricably linked. They have clients of all ages 247), where Marcel Montlleó has chalked up who are fans of their organic products – they more than 50 years in the profession. He’s no TRIM OR TOTAL work with Italian brand Davines – including stranger to fashion shows – as well as BCN’s many devotees of their imaginative ModaFAD he worked on Delpozo’s most recent experiments with colour. Another new arrival is catwalk shows in New York – and when he’s RETHINK D-tox (Tallers, 77). Carolina Suasi and Jesús not styling Spanish celebrities, he and his Prados have set up shop on the Ɓrst Ƃoor of the team take care of their customers in his splendidly named Luminor building, a relic of romantic and theatrical salon in the Eixample. the ’50s with industrial details and Ƃoor-to- Among the younger generation, one up-and- By Eugènia Sendra ceiling windows, a place where you can escape coming name is José Juan Guzman, the the city noise and browse cutting-edge style driving force behind Bot (Bot, 4). His magazines like Purple or F****** Young. As hairstyles have been featured in fashion well as basic treatments and designer spreads and big-name campaigns, and his products such as label.m, they also organise lookbook for 2014 – shot by Outumuro – is full pop-up events with local artists and designers. of romantically waved tresses, with names The borders between beauty, fashion and art inspired by the tracks he listens to while he are also blurred at The Secret Room (Consell works. The salon, in the Gòtic, is easy on the de Cent, 254). This salon and social club eye: minimalist, with clean lines, it radiates recently moved to a new location with a large elegance and glamour. If you want to order garden, where owner Salva G hosts events, yourself a treatment, you should know that exhibitions, tastings and fashion shows. keratin is the order of the day here.
24 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com ONE O NINE
Just for men
It’s a good time to be a barber: beards and moustaches are in, and customers are once more settling in to a classic Triumph barber’s chair to take advice from the professionals on the subject of razors, fades and quiffs. At Vicenç Moretó (Joaquin Costa, 51), the third generation of the Moretó family snips in style while dispensing wisdom: he discusses hair products – they use beard-speciƁc ones from Catalan brand V7 and Paul Mitchell – and the role of the apprentice in the recent revival of the barber’s
MARIA DIAS trade, praising initiatives like Barberias con Encanto (Barbers with Charm), a platform designed to raise the visibility of the surviving Statement cuts Healthy hair men’s salons. The Barberia de Gràcia (Torrent de l’Olla, 198) They’re trendsetters who take risks with cuts We visit them on an irregular basis to get prides itself on old-school haircuts and styles, but also work with ideas that our unruly locks in line, but once there, why based on scissors, comb and transcend aesthetics, and attempt to bring not make the hairdresser’s a place to traditional techniques. Jordi Pérez, hairdressing closer to the average punter. If you unwind and refresh your head inside and named best new hairdresser at want to buck trends and make a statement, out? Following the philosophy that well- Cosmobelleza 2014, runs the there’s always La Pelu (Tallers, 35). They offer being begins (and ends) with healthy hair, barbershop he inherited from his styles and colours that work for you as an there’s been a proliferation of hair spas father, where you can still enjoy a individual without slavishly following fashion. offering all kinds of treatments. You’ll Ɓnd proper wet shave. He talks about They’re closely involved in charities and local the real deal at Tön Vangard (Diputació, the prestige of the profession, and initiatives, as are Pódame (Robador, 5), run by 191), but if you can’t afford the whole ritual the boom. ‘Maybe while we’re in Sergi Coloma and company. After years of and are happy with just the preamble, drop fashion we can re-educate all these campaigns to revitalise the Raval Sud area, in at Creatival (Venezuela, 3). Located in people who’ve rediscovered the comb and scissors in hand (plus hairdressing the Poblenou neighbourhood, they have one barbershop.’ Fades, Ɓne lines, skills and a knack for understanding their of the latest hits in salon furniture, designer Ƃattop boogies and executive customers’ needs), they’ve opened a branch in Karim Rashid’s minimalist chairs, in which, contours are just some of the Gràcia (Bonavista, 25). Gràcia is also where while your hair is being shampooed and specialities at Krispy Cuts (Basses Anthony Llobet Ɓrst opened (Ros de Olano, caressed, you can enjoy a shiatsu air de Sant Pere, 1), where Alexis Ariza 19). The eponymous Catalan-British stylist massage and a chromotherapy session, puts the principles of contemporary came up with the idea of hair salons for English with the playlist on your phone as a American barbering into practice. speakers in the city who didn’t want their soundtrack – you take the chance of falling How about a haircut over a glass of language skills (or lack of them) to get in the asleep in public at your own risk. You’ll Ɓnd wine? Wine expert and barber way of their haircut. He now has three other the last word in luxury at Le Salon Andrea Varini has joined the team at branches across the city, in Born (Carders, 34), (Mallorca, 230). A peaceful private garden One O Nine (Mare de Deu del Pilar, the Gòtic area (Avinyò, 34) and Barceloneta in which to wait, a hand massage while your 15 bis), an art gallery, tattoo parlour (Almirall Churruca, 8). The vibe in them all is colour takes, and a range of exclusive hair and barbershop, all in one. retro, often due to the fact that Llobet takes and skin products are the hallmarks of this over classic salons and barbershops, and French-style salon, which has its own barely touches the existing aesthetic – indeed collection of styles, that favour natural he seems to relish it. cuts and colours.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 25 Tickets Gilda by Belgious Paral·lel, 164 (Poble-sec) Ample, 34 (Gòtic) 1.606 225 545 2.93 310 34 92 HAVE AHAVE TASTE
Thanks for the La Pastisseria Oriol Balaguer Chok YOUTHFUL CREATIVITY THE CLASSIC CUSTOMISED DOUGHNUTS You can’t talk about chocolate in Barcelona If there’s one outstanding name in Barcelona This Raval shop has a bit of everything: from without mentioning Josep Maria Rodríguez, the when it comes to chocolate, it’s Oriol trufƂes to neules (rolled wafers), chökanias talented young pastry chef whose credentials Balaguer, a master chocolatier who has made (Marcona almonds, toasted, caramelised, then include Ɓrst place in 2011’s Coupe du Monde the dark stuff his life’s work, winning dipped in chocolate) and even an olive oil with de la Pâtisserie. Three years ago he opened his prestigious prizes along the way. Both his chocolate that has legions of fans. They also run Ɓrst shop in Barcelona, La Pastisseria, recently stores in Les Corts and Sarrià and his new workshops on the different uses of cocoa, in joined by a sister site on Via Augusta. venture in the Born (La Xocolateria by Oriol sweet and savoury recipes: from a marmitako The speciality: Although they also make one of Balaguer, on Carrer de la Fusina) pay homage (Basque tuna pot) to a French omelette – all with the meanest croissants in the city, which you to chocolate in the form of sophisticated chocolate as a key ingredient. can order with chocolate sauce, milk foam and creations that could well have inspired the The speciality: The eponymous choks are a powdered chocolate, La Pastisseria is a little person (whoever it was) who invented the customised chocolate doughnut (less sugary universe of delicacy, sensuality and creativity term food porn – or maybe the even-less- and less greasy) that represent a sublimation of focused entirely on the art of cake-making. inhibited foodgasm. this food of the gods. There are over 30 types, Superlative technique and elegance go hand in The speciality: At the shops, try the bonbons. all with a layer of chocolate as a base, topped hand, giving rise to creations such as their pure At La Xocolateria, ask for a personalised with oodles of creativity. Fillings include Nutella, chocolate cake or the spectacular I Love Xoco. chocolate bar. freeze-dried strawberry and chilli.
Aragó, 228 (Eixample) Pl. de Sant Gregori Taumaturg, 2 (Sarrià) Carme, 3 (Raval) ⓣ 93 451 84 01 ⓣ 93 201 18 46 ⓣ 93 304 23 60 www.lapastisseriabarcelona.com www.oriolbalaguer.com www.chokbarcelona.com
26 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Due Spaghi 1. Airy churros with creamy Sepúlveda, 151 (St Antoni) stone-ground hot chocolate. 93 503 19 30 Always pushing the dessert envelope, one of the latest treats to be unveiled at Tickets are these 3. unusual churros, made from dry meringue and served with a cup of thick, creamy stone-ground hot chocolate. You won’t forget them.
2. Chocolate and goat’s cheese ice cream. Don’t be a chocolate purist: this delicacy combines a mild chocolate Ƃavour with the subtle and perfectly calibrated taste of goat’s cheese.
3. Bread with oil and chocolate At Due Spaghi nothing is what it seems. Their bread with olive oil and chocolate, in which the oil is formed into tiny spheres and the bread into delicate, crispy threads, is just another example of their playful creativity.
Chocoholics, Barcelona loves you: the city is brimming with dark temptations By Laura Conde chocolate Photos Ivan Giménez Dismon Pastissos Bubó Xococake i Xocolata PURE BEAUTY PUNK PASTRIES Step into Bubó and all your senses spring into With chocolate at centre stage, Xococake, a ADDITIVE-FREE life. Their creations, as well as being delicious paradise of Ɓne cake-making in Gràcia, is the At Dismon, as well as a spectacular selection and original, are a feast for the eyes, as beƁts brainchild of Albert Badia Roca, who has of bonbons and cakes, you can always Ɓnd one of the city’s coolest cake shops, located patisseries in Sants and Sant Gervasi. unusual creations that, if nothing else, will in the Born area, just opposite the church of Xococake is the punkier cousin of his other bring a smile to your face. This pastry shop, Santa Maria del Mar. outlets, a place where chocolate takes on the where all the products are made using The speciality: They have bonbons, chocolate most unexpected forms. traditional techniques and without additives, is bars, macaroons and cakes, and they also The speciality: Biscuits, bonbons, cakes, ice a family business that has been sweetening make delicious treats called meteorites cream – at Xococake you’ll Ɓnd it all, but we’ll the lives of Gràcia residents for years. (chocolate mixed with almonds, pistachio and settle for the magniƁcent xocolatines, which The speciality: They make all kinds of cookies, sunƂower seeds). But our top pick at Bubó remind us of the days when a small disc of viennoiserie and canapés for their buffet has always been the delicious Xocoxups, chocolate accompanied by a piece of bread dining service, but we love their decorated lollipops with gianduja (chocolate spread with was a traditional teatime snack for many chocolates – they feature the Barça shield, hazelnut paste) that come in two varieties: Catalan children. If vermouth has made a scenes from the Kama Sutra, and even the pistachio with raspberry and coconut, or milk comeback, can’t we bring chocolates at Sagrada Família. and dark chocolate. Pure indulgence. teatime back into fashion too? Pretty please?
Ramón y Cajal, 108 (Gràcia) Caputxes, 10 (Born) Gran de Gràcia, 17 (Gràcia) ⓣ 93 284 32 91 ⓣ 93 268 72 24 ⓣ 93 315 41 29 www.dismonpastissos.com www.bubo.es www.xococake.es
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Save your euros and take advantage of the times when Barcelona’s museums let you in for nothing. By Jan Fleischer
01 TWO MILLION YEARS OF HISTORY With exhibits ranging from the Lower Paleolithic era right up to Jordi Pujol’s proclamation as President of the Generalitat in 1980, the Catalan History Museum offers a virtual chronology of the region’s past. There are two Ƃ oors of text, Ɓ lm, animated models and reproductions of everything from a medieval shoemaker’s shop to a 1960s bar. Hands-on activities add a little pizzazz to the
rather dry early history, while the huge rooftop IVANOV ANTON café terrace has unbeatable views over the city and marina. hoard. Even when the Council gave him this Museu d’Història de Catalunya 03 palace in which to display his collection (and Palau de Mar, Plaça de Pau Vila, 3 AN INSTRUMENTAL VISIT live), it wasn’t enough; the overƂ ow eventually www.mhcat.cat Finally rehoused at L’Auditori in 2007 after spread to two other Marès museums. #FOKUUKQPKUHTGGVJGƁTUV5WPFC[QHGXGT[ six years in hibernation, the Music Museum Museu Frederic Marès OQPVJCPFVJKUOQPVJQP6JWCUYGNN has over 1,600 instruments, displayed like Plaça de Santiu, 5-6 precious jewels on red velvet and in glass www.museumares.bcn.cat cases, along with multimedia displays and Admission is free every Sunday from 3pm, 02 interactive exhibits. With pieces spanning the CPFVJGƁTUV5WPFC[QHGXGT[OQPVJ THE ART CONNECTION ancient world to the modern day, and from all The Palau Nacional, which dates from the parts of the globe, the high note is the 1929 World’s Fair, houses the Catalan world-class collection of 17th-century guitars. BOTANIC GARDEN National Museum of Art and its collection of Museu de la Música works, from sculpture, painting and drawings Lepant, 150 to prints, posters and photography, and with www.museumusica.bcn.es On Montjuïc, between the castle and the objective of explaining the importance of Admission is free every Sunday from 3pm, the Olympic Stadium, this 14-hectare Catalan art from the Romanesque period to CPFVJGƁTUV5WPFC[QHGXGT[OQPVJ garden has a shape remininscent of an the mid-20th century. It’s also home to some amphitheatre. Its collections of plants of the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection, come from the Mediterranean and formerly at the Convent de Pedralbes, and the 04 more distant places, and the amazing legacy of Francesc Cambó. PRETTY, SHINY THINGS views stretch over the city and beyond. MNAC: Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Kleptomaniac and general magpie Frederic Jardí Botànic Parc de Montjuïc, s/n Marès (1893-1991) ‘collected’ everything he Doctor Font i Quer s/n www.museunacional.cat laid his hands on, from hairbrushes to Admission is free every Sunday from 3pm Admission is free every Saturday from 3pm, gargoyles. Marès wasn’t wealthy, but spent all CPFVJGƁTUV5WPFC[GCEJOQPVJ CPFQPVJGƁTUV5WPFC[QHGXGT[OQPVJ he earned as a sculptor on extending his
28 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 29 Shopping & Style
RITA ROW Who? Imma Serra and Xènia Semis launched the label in Urban chic 2012, and in no time they won a fan base that’s been growing ever since. They’ve featured masterclass as emerging talents at Madrid’s Fashion Week and Who’s Next in Paris. Want to get ahead in the style stakes? What? Versatile clothing. Eugènia Sendra reveals a range of They work with prints a lot, and the autumn-winter 2015 Barcelona’s fashion talents collection will include knitwear and a footwear range. Where? Ivori (Mirallers, 7) and online at www.ritarow.com. ALBERT RUSO KRIZIA ROBUSTELLA Who? Amsterdam native who grew up in BCN, she regularly shows (and is one of the most daring) at the city’s 080 Fashion event. What? Robustella does sport deluxe, giving sophisticated touches to more classic sportswear styles. Where? In her KR Store (Sant Pere Més Alt, 50), you’ll Ɓnd clothes from similar designers such as Ahida Aguirre and David Méndez.
MANUEL BOLAÑO ISOMETRIC Who? Born in BCN and raised Who? Collaboration between in Galicia, he often travels to Joan Ros – Ɓnalist in the local Japan and Anvers seeking ModaFAD Fashion Awards in inspiration. 2014 – and Jessica Montes, What? Intrepid clients, who were workshop comrades artisanal details (such as at Barcelona’s Martin Lamothe hand-made lace) and beautiful design label. materials are the basis of his What? Earlier this year, they collections for men and presented their Ɓrst men’s women, which often have a collection, inspired by Freud and biographical element. psychoanalysis, and referencing Where? Colmado Shop Ɓlm-makers, including Hitchcock (Mirallers, 5) or take a visit to and Buñuel. his showroom-studio in the Where? Stay up-to-date with the Eixample (Aragó, 344. www. duo and their creations on manuelbolano.com). facebook.com/isometricpress.
30 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] @eugeniasendra
SITA MURT Who? This label was created in the ’80s by the eponymous Murt, who died in December last year. Her children are now in charge of the company. What? Knitwear specialists, they create utilitarian, minimalist pieces – for the coming winter, the designs have a clear masculine edge. Where? Sita Murt (València, 242) or www.sitamurt.com.
MIRIAM PONSA Who? An established name on the Catalan design scene, last summer Ponsa proved she is still a force to be reckoned with, taking home the best collection prize at 080. What? Ponsa, originally from the Catalan town of Manresa, is excellent at experimenting with unusual fabrics and creating GEORGINA VENDRELL oversize knits, and always aims to Who? Debuted at ModaFAD in 2007, where she won the award for best Ɓll her collections with meaning. collection, Vendrell returned to the 080 catwalks in February this year Where? As well as a Barcelona following several years of absence, conƁrming her as a name to watch. shop (Princesa, 14), Ponsa What? A menswear specialist, she is now exploring what’s new in the shares a Paris space with peers sector and delving into more technical fabrics. Josep Abril, Txell Miras and Where? www.georginavendrell.com Projecte 01.
BRAIN&BEAST PABLO ERROZ Who? Troika made up of ngel Who? Trained at Saint Martins in Vilda, César Olivar and Verónica London, among other places, he Raposo. combines his own-label design What? ZombiƁed pop icons work with commissions for feature on many of the label’s companies such as Inditex. graphics, a nod to the trio’s dark What? Leather is a recurrent sense of humour. For the coming element in his outƁts for both men winter season, they’ve created and women; his latest collections tailored coats, collaborated with featured pieces created using Barcelona knitwear Ɓrm wam, rustic materials. And he Matalafría, and designed their recommends never ignoring Ɓrst ranges of clothing for kids accessories when putting and accessories for pets. together a look. Where? Their Born space is a Where? Buy his jackets, dresses, mini hub for local designers trousers and skirts online: (Canvis Nous, 10). pabloerroz.bigcartel.com.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 31 Shopping & Style Indulge your most feminine side Local labels and luxury accessories reign at MoiStore. By Eugènia Sendra
Housed in a former stationer’s, collection is marked by the use of which opened in 1929, multi-label quality materials, hidden and clothing and accessory shop sealed seams, and monochrome MoiStore still has the wooden tones. furniture and fittings left over from Accessories are just as the space’s previous incarnation. important as the clothes at The people behind this new MoiStore, ideal for those clients creative venture are musical who want to find a head-to-toe look, empresario Jorge Morgé and whatever their style. So lovers of designer Jean-Yves Terrón. Their both Pertini Oxfords and the super interest doesn’t just lie in fashion, feminine footwear of Zinda (the however – the pair want MoiStore two labels are produced in to become a reference point in the Born neighbourhood, where customers come to find clothes, music – jazz in particular – and art. Organic leather MoiStore is a haven of eclecticism. On its rails you’ll find bags by Veja local labels such as print maestros contrast with the Ailanto, and Menchén Tomás with his romantic creations, as well as Barroque luxe of European designers such as Maison du Posh Barbara Alan. Another standout is the first Moi collection, Terrón’s Alicante) will be happy here. own label that he has founded Veja’s organic leather bags, with after ten years working alongside their pure lines, contrast with the Menchén Tomás as well as time extreme Barroque luxury of Maison with Thierry Mugler, from whom du Posh. And the necklace range Terrón got his initial grounding in includes the metallic creations of fashion. His work is inspired by Elena Estaún, chunky pieces by Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Mireia Fusté and feather-adorned Garçons, Azzedine Alaïa and Rick products from 2dós. Owens, infused with the spirit of the ’80s, and aims to flatter the MOISTORE female figure. ‘I’m no innovator,’ Rera Palau, 2 (Born).
says the designer, whose first www.storemoi.com MARIA DIAS PHOTOGRAPHY:
SPRING TONES Seasonal looks
SIMPLY GORGEOUS Nude and rose are the Moi shades for this season; this cotton and silk dress (€150) is accessorised with a Mireia Fusté necklace.
IN-HOUSE EXTRAS PARTY ON Moi creates its own small range of If we had to choose just one pair accessories; the clutches, made from Zinda’s footwear range, from python skin, come in a range we’d have to go with these white of colours (€159). perforated peep-toes (€215).
32 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Shopping & Style
Re-creating a classic
Nothing is completely sacred, Your style totally untouchable. Not even the design of Levi’s 501s, an iconic Feminine creativity for those who piece of clothing created at the end appreciate good design and of the 1800s and designated ‘product of the century’ by Time execution. By Eugènia Sendra magazine in 1999. Coming at the start of a spring-summer season noteworthy for its fashion revivals and denim adoration, Levi’s brings us a new version of its boyfriend design – a move that brings to mind the launch of its Engineered jeans line, its twisted product made for both men and women. to the company’s SVP of global The new arrivals are called Levi’s design, so they decided to cut out 501 CT – the initials stand for the middleman and make a range custom and tapered – and were with the ankle pre-narrowed. Check inspired by the way many clients the Levi’s website for ways to wear choose to change their trousers. this instant classic. –E.S. ‘After hemming, tapering the leg of 501 jeans is the most requested LEVI’S alteration in Levi’s stores and tailor Passeig de Gràcia, 37. MINIMALIST shops around the world,’ according www.levi.com Finnish-Swede Ann-Sofi Storbacka is behind Vaska leather bags, such as this Helmi Box (€180), mixing Scandi style with Mediterranean craftsmanship. Colmado Object of desire Shop (Mirallers, 5). vaskabags.com RUNAWAY STYLE The fantasy designs and materials that are the signature of Jazmin Berakha can now be found on Le Coq trainers, converting the wearer’s steps into moments of art. LCS R950 (€120). Odd Barcelona (Mallorca, 279).
DELICATE Berta Riera, whose jewellery has been shown across Europe, has created a new collection where the emphasis is on simplicity and the use of quality materials. www.bertariera.com
VERSATILE Dos Ocho Cinco clothing is striking, pretty and, if you have time, made to measure by Blanca and Cristina at their studio. Find them at Palo Alto Design Market (Apr 4-5). dosochocinco.com
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The city and the club 1 share a common history dating back over 100 years. Braden Phillips takes a tour of the 2 key landmarks
CAMP NOU Most visited museum in 1| 3 Catalonia last year? That’s right – the FC Barcelona one (aka the ground zero of any Barça pilgrimage), which heart – once CANALETES FOUNTAIN received over 1.5 million fans held the 4|Barça fans converge here, at in 2014. Europe’s largest ofƁ cial event. the top of La Rambla, to celebrate stadium with capacity for over Players gave titles. The tradition began in 99,000, Camp Nou will get a the trophy to Catalonia’s 1930, when Catalan newspaper facelift in 2017, including covered 5 political leaders on the Town La Rambla posted football results seating for 105,000 spectators. Hall balcony. Very moving for in the window of its ofƁ ce (where The museum is state of the art, all, but crowds forced a Bar Nuria is today). Fans came to with giant interactive touch change to Camp Nou. Ɓ nd out – and celebrate – if Barça screens, a vast collection of had won. They’ve been coming football memorabilia and a CAMP DE LES CORTS ever since. new-ish space dedicated to 3|Barça’s stadium from the team’s diminutive star, Leo 1922 to 1957. Soon after it SOLÉ GYMNASIUM Over a Messi. opened, on Travessera de Les 5|century ago, on November Corts between C/Vallespir and 29, 1899, a dozen men gathered PLAÇA SANT C/Numancia, Barça fans jeered here (half Catalans and half |JAUME Canaletes the Spanish national anthem, foreigners), at C/Montjuïc del (see 4) is the place for resulting in a six-month closure. Carme, 5, on the corner of Pintor popular fetes of Les Corts held a special place Fortuny, to create FC Barcelona. Barça triumphs, 4 in Catalan hearts, but it was Today you can visit the spot and but this square – razed after the construction of admire the plaque that the city’s political Camp Nou. commemorates the historic event.
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Building castles in the air FAMILIES AL FRESCO This month, Human towers are an iconic par t of Catalan there are various CULTURAL HAVEN casteller events culture. Lynn Baiori talks to two young climbers going on – see our listings It is impossible to watch without Ten-year-old Rehmat has been a for info becoming emotionally involved. casteller for three years and she The musicians prepare as young dedicates five or more hours to and old, dressed in the emblematic practising after school every week. uniform of the casteller, lock to She says she loves the festive form the pinya (base), while dozens environment that fills the squares DE CATALUNYA GENERALITAT more castellers encircle the group, on the days they perform. She offering support. Over the decided to become a casteller PALAU ROBERT shoulders of the pinya climb the on the insistence of her sister, At the top of Passeig de Gràcia, this men and women who will form the who was already hooked. one-time aristocratic residence is next level, and they, in turn, are Sometimes entire families excellent for all ages – shady gardens followed by the next set. All the sign up. for playing or picnicking on the benches while the cap de colla (leader of the Maia, a casteller since the (there are no lawns), tourist information group) is shouting directions from age of six, was invited by a and free exhibitions. Pg. de Gràcia, the ground. Then the music begins, friend to her first rehearsal. 107. www.gencat.cat/palaurobert signalling the ascent of the tower’s She has been at it now for top three levels made up of the almost four years, despite youngest members, el pom de dalt, having fallen twice when the ON THE LOW SEAS and the breathless climb of tower collapsed, once from children over the trembling human the seventh level, which pillar begins. At that moment, your resulted in a black eye. neck arched back, your heart When she climbs, she accompanies each small child as thinks of a song so as not to they climb several stories above worry about how high she’s the square towards the summit – going. Why does she do it? and you’re there with the enxaneta ‘I get very emotional when I
as she arrives at the top, throwing make it to the top and raise MARIA DIAS one arm to the sky and completing my arm. It’s called xecar the castell to euphoric cries and l’aleta [raising your wing]’. LAS GOLONDRINAS applause from below. Then she adds, ‘You See Barcelona’s watery side with a trip This is not child’s play. The know, sometimes on one of these boats that have been youngsters involved take it very I dream I’m at touring the port since 1888. Choose seriously. The pom de dalt wear the top, I raise between a 40-minute local ride or a specially designed helmets, and an my wing and 90-minute voyage further up the coast. ambulance is always standing by. I can fly.’ Portal de la Pau (end of La Rambla). 10am-8pm. €7 adults, €2.75 children
Anyone for Nadal? URBAN OASIS While FC Barcelona is ‘more than a The crowd favourite is Rafa Nadal, club’, Barcelona itself is also about who triumphed every year from more than one sport. Tennis, for 2005 to 2013, except 2010 when instance, is much-loved here – he didn’t actually play, so fair many past and present stars have enough. Last year Nadal went out in honed their skills at local training the quarter-Ɓ nals, despite being the facilities – and the city’s annual favourite. Kei Nishikori ultimately
tournament is a highlight for triumphed, the Ɓ rst non-Spaniard to DE BARCELONA AJUNTAMENT aƁ cionados of all levels. The win the title in 12 years. All eyes will Barcelona Open Banc Sabadell be on the Reial Club de Tennis this TURÓ PARK Trofeu Conde Godó, apart from month to see whether the local A lovely park in Sant Gervasi with a surely being the contest with the darling can recover his crown. great children’s play area, a pond full longest name in the world, gives of fish, and an outdoor café perfect fans a chance to see top players in Barcelona Open Banc Sabadell for parents wanting to recharge their more intimate surroundings than, takes place from April 18-26. batteries. Av. Pau Casals, 19
say, Wimbledon or Roland Garros. NATURSPORTS barcelonaopenbancsabadell.com (off Pl. Francesc Macià)
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tie-in short Mike’s New Car. waterside shopping centre. CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Tour (Moll d’Espanya, 5). M: Drassanes Day by day Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). Every Sun FGC). 5pm. €4. Secret Basilica del Pi in Apr. Noon. Information and sales: Night-time visits to the 14th-century Tourist Information Points and Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi. www.visitbarcelona.com Tour Santa Maria del Pi Church (Plaça del Tour Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). Thu, Fri 9.20pm FREE This activity is free Santa Maria del Mar rooftop (English). Sat 9.50pm (English). €22 FREE Baluard Gardens Guided tours to the top of this (general). €9 (in advance). www. Visit the newly renovated gardens, * The dates of league matches historic church for great city views. adsentiabarcelona.com, www. tucked behind the only remaining may be moved forward or back (Plaça de Santa Maria, 1). M: bcnshop.com. gateway of the city’s medieval walls. one day, depending on TV Jaume I (L4). Mon-Fri 12pm to 5pm (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: broadcast schedules (every hour, last entry 4pm). Sat, House-museum Casa Bloc Drassanes (L3). 1st and 3rd Sun Sun, public holidays 11am to 5pm Workers’ apartment block, built 11am-2pm. (every hour, last entry 4pm).€10 between 1932 and 1936, that is an Wednesday 1 (general). €8 (reduced). Booking: icon of rationalist architecture. The FREE Guided tour of Poblenou Itinera Plus – tel. 93 342 83 33. museum captures the original’s Cemetery revolutionary spirit. Visit one of Barcelona’s historical Kids (C/ d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: cemeteries. Regatta Torras i Bages (L1). Sat 11am, (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 1st Chocolate workshop 12.30pm. €3 (advance booking and 3rd Sun 10.30am (Catalan) & Recreate sweet treats from 300 Salt route: BCN-Formentera necessary. Info and booking: 12.30pm (Spanish). years ago, using tools of city’s The most popular sea navigation www.museudeldisseny.cat 18th-century chocolate makers. regatta in the Mediterranean has FREE Visit CCCB rooftop terrace Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, been held since 1989, with a Tour of Liceu opera house See Barcelona from the top of this 12). M: Jaume I + Barceloneta (L4) colourful Ƃeet of over 2000 ships Discover Barcelona’s glorious city centre building. & Arc de Triomf (L1). 10am-1pm.€5. sailing from BCN to Formentera. opera house, restored after a (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1, For 6 to 12 year olds. Apr 2-5. More info: larutadelasal. devastating Ɓre in 1994. L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). com; ananbcn.org (La Rambla 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Pixar: One-Man Band and Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. €14. Torre Bellesguard | Finding Nemo Tours of Gaudí’s modernista Family cinema with comic short Friday 3 FREE Funeral carriage tour castle on the slopes of Tibidabo. One Man Band and heartwarming Unique collection of hearses and (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo undersea epic Finding Nemo. Kids other funerary paraphernalia. (FGC). English: Wed, Sun 11am. CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: €16. €12.80 (reduced). Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Pixar: Cars and For the Birds Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Every Sat noon. FGC). 5.30pm. €4. Classic Pixar short For the Birds is paired with every Ƃedgling petrol- Football Easter at CosmoCaixa head’s favourite, Cars. Kids Natural history illustrator Carles CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i * League fixture. RCD Puche shares techniques for using Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, Bookmark workshop Espanyol – Elche CF your iPad as a drawing tool. L3; FGC). 5.30pm. €4. Design your own bookmark. Espanyol face Valencian team. (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Date and time TBC. More info: Tibidabo (FGC). Until Apr 6. 11am. Rolf & Flor, peace Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya www.rcdespanyol.com. Estadi €4. From 6 years. ambassadors (L1, L3; FGC). Apr 5, 12, 19 and Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del Baix Live music show from pop group The 26 10.30am. Included in Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de Miró alphabet Pinker Tones in Spanish and English. admission price. Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà Riera. Tour based on the book Miró’s CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Alphabet, observing shapes, drawing Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, Story time! pictures and creating stories. L3; FGC). Noon. €2. Two travellers roll into town with a Monday 6 Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de cart full of stories. Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Poble Espanyol (Av. Francesc Tour FGC). www.fundaciomiro-bcn.org Saturday 4 Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Apr 5, 12, 19 and 26 The Secret Pedrera Cinema 10.30am. €13. €8 kids. Delve into the corners of Gaudí’s Thursday 2 building with this night-time tour. Film cycle: ‘Big in Japan’ (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal Kids Cinema season featuring the best Sunday 5 (L3, L5) and Provença (FGC). Wed- of recent Japanese cinema. Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €30. Pixar: Monsters, Inc. and Mike’s Casa Asia, Sant Pau modernista Human towers New Car monument (Sant Antoni María Palau de la Música Pixar’s things-that-go-bump-in-the- Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau-Dos de FREE Castellers at Maremagnum Tour this emblematic building of night smash Monsters Inc. with the Maig (L5). Tel. 93 368 08 36. Human towers and pillars at Catalan modernisme, a UNESCO
36 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Things to Do
World Heritage Site since 1997. (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Kids Urquinaona (L1, L4). Daily tours 10am-3.30pm. €18. €11 (reduced). Feet on the ground Miró felt most free in the countryside, in direct contact with Kids earth. Learn how natural materials are used to create art. Pixar: The Incredibles and Jack- Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Jack Attack Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Pixar’s deƁnitive take on the FGC). 11am. fundaciomiro-bcn.org supehero genre, with tie-in Jack- Jack Attack, featuring the youngest member of the Incredibles family. Tour CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Drassanes, history of life FGC). Noon. €4. A dramatised tour brings to life the city’s medieval Royal Shipyards, Strategies for living beings with tales of kings, sea captains, Games and models help kids stone masons and soldiers. discover how shapes, colours and Maritime Museu (Av. de les behaviour are strategies that help Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes living creatures survive. (L3). 11am. €10, €7 children. CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Until Apr 26. See web for times: cosmocaixa. Thursday 9 com/agenda. €4. From 5 years. Human towers
Tour Castellers practice session See Tue 7. (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot Sant Pau modernista (L1, L2;). 7pm. monument| Once a working hospital, this network of pavilions was designed Tour by Lluís Domenech i Montaner. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Secret Basilica del Pi Sant Pau – Dos de Maig (L5). Tours See Sat 4. Santa Maria del Pi in various languages; consult for (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). schedule. Mon-Fri 10.30am-1pm. Sat, Sun, public holidays 10.30am- Sant Pau modernista 1.30pm. €14. €9.80 (reduced). monument| See Mon 6. Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Tuesday 7 Sant Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). Human towers Festival Castellers practice session Barcelona’s Colla Castellera Mecal 17 rehearse their spectacular skills. BCN’s International Short Film and (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot (L1, L2;). 7pm. Animation Festival marks 17th edition. CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, Wednesday 8 L3). Until Apr 19. More info: www. Football cccb.org.
* League fixture. FC Friday 10 Barcelona – U.D. Almería Barça take on Andalusian team. Human towers Date and time TBC. Info: www. fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou (Aristides Castellers practice Maillol, s/n). M: Les Corts (L3). session
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See Tue 7. (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot (L1, L3). Apr. 11-12. More info: Hospital Sant Pau (Sant Antoni (L1, L2;). 7pm. www.cccb.org. Tour Maria Claret, 167). M: Sant Pau- Dos de Maig (L5). FREE Guided tour of Montjuïc Tour Sunday 12 Cemetery Visit Barcelona’s hillside Cinema FREE Fossar de la Pedrera Human towers cemetery. Cementiri de Montjuïc tour (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: Film screening: Bouchra English guide Nick Lloyd takes you FREE Castellers day in Sants Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 2nd & 4th Khalili round this part of Montjuïc Watch them go up – but hold your Sun 11am (Catalan) and 11.15am MACBA director Bartomeu Marí cemetery dedicated to victims of breath until they’re all safely down. (Spanish). presents Khalili’s work Garden Spain’s fascist regime. (Badalona, 38-40). M: Sants-Estació Conversation (2014), in a (Mare de Déu del Port, 56-58). M: (L3, L5). Noon. dialogue with the artist. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 4pm. Also Monday 13 (Pl. dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat Apr 26 11am. FREE Castellers: the Can Jorba (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). trophy Tour www.macba.cat Human towers in competition. Saturday 11 (Avda. Portal de l’Angel). Palau de la Música M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). 10am. See Mon 6. (Palau de la Música, Friday 17 Kids 4-6) M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Sport Adventures of the Intrepid Kids The Secret Pedrera Oldies See Mon 6. (Provença, 261-265). Spirit of Montjuïc Puppet show for the whole family. The Balinese gamelan. Stories M: Diagonal (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC). Classic car revival, with a Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, and musical experiences packed programme of races. 12). M: Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). Discover the haunting music of Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya Apr 11--12. Sat 6pm. Sun noon. the gamelan, an ensemble of Tuesday 14 (Camí Mas Moreneta, Montmeló). Adults €5. Under-8s free. gongs, metallophones and drums, Montmeló (RENFE). Apr 17-19. and try your hand at playing it. Human towers www.circuitcat.com Puppet show: The Shoe Tree Museu de la Música (Lepant, 150) Tim has lost his left shoe. Mrs Gris M: Glòries (L1) , Monumental (L2) Castellers practice session tells him it might be on a special and Marina (L4). 5.30pm. See Tue 7. (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot Tour tree, so Tim hops off to Ɓnd it. (L1, L2;). 7pm. Fundació Joan Miró (Parc de Sundays at the theatre: Paper Tour of Liceu opera house Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya (L1, L3; bubbles See Sat 4. (La Rambla 51-59). M: FGC). 5pm. fundaciomiro-bcn.org Dance, live music and multimedia Tour Liceu (L3). projections create an imaginative Indiana Stones: let’s world in which the audience is Santa Maria del Mar rooftop Secret Basilica del Pi explore! invited to participate. See Thu 2. (Plaça de Santa Maria, See Sat 4. Santa Maria del Pi Daring explorers discover the Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). 1). M: Jaume I (L4). (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). hidden corners of La Pedrera in an M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Noon. In architectural adventure. Catalan. T. 93 317 75 99. www. (Provença, 261). M: Diagonal (L3, L5) teatrepoliorama.com. From 3 years. Wednesday 15 Saturday 18 and Provença (FGC). 10am.€8.50. For children from 5-13. Interactive visit to Tour Tennis ‘Toca, Toca’ Bitxo Bot Find out how to protect the different Drassanes, history of life Barcelona Open Banc Sabadell - Use motors, LEDs and recycled ecosystems of our planet, from See Wed 8. Maritime Museu (Av. 62nd Conde de Godó Trophy materials to build simple robots. deserts to tropical rainforests. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Top names from the international MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). CosmoCaixa (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Drassanes (L3). tennis circuit hit town for BCN’s 11.30am. €15. Recommended for Avinguda Tibidabo (FGC). Sat, Sun biggest clay-court tournament. children 8-12 years. Info and 11am, noon, 1pm, 4pm and 6pm. See page 35. booking: tickets@mibamuseum. €4. €2 reduced. From 3 years. Thursday 16 Reial Club de Tennis Barcelona com or call 93 332 79 30. 1899 (Bosch i Gimpera, 5-13). M: Football Tour Maria Cristina (L3). Apr 18-26. Find time and price info at www. Festival * League fixture. RCD Secret Basilica del Pi barcelonaopenbancsabadell.com. Espanyol – Athletic Club See Sat 4. Santa Maria del Pi Lapsus Espanyol meet the Bilbao team. Church (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Avant-garde electronic music Date and time TBC. More info: Liceu (L3). Dance–swing event with artists including Mouse www.rcdespanyol.com. Estadi on Mars, Moiré and Lost Twin. Cornellà - El Prat (Av. del Baix Sant Pau modernista FREE Want to dance? CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Llobregat, 100. Cornellà de monument| Grab your partners for this Universitat ( L1, L2) & Catalunya Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà Riera. See Mon 6. swing session at the MNAC.
38 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Things to Do
(Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, See Sat 11. Fundació Joan Miró festival, see local and guest L3; FGC). 4pm-5.45pm. (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Sunday 19 castellers in actions. Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). (Pl. Sagrada Família). M: Sagrada Football Família (L2, L5). Noon. Kids Món Llibre Born detectives A festival of children’s literature. * League fixture. FC Get your camera ready to CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Barcelona – UD Almería Tour investigate an archaeological Universitat (L1, L2) & Catalunya Prepare for goals as Barça face site. Find clues and solve the (L1, L3). Apr 18-19. More info: the Andalusian club. Date and FREE Baluard Gardens mystery! www.cccb.org. time TBC. More info: www. See Sun 5. (Av. de les Drassanes, Born Cultural Centre (Pl. fcbarcelona.cat. Camp Nou s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I + (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Barceloneta (L4) & Arc de Triomf Tour Corts (L3). FREE Guided tour of Poblenou (L1). 10am-1pm.€5. For 6 to 12 Cemetery year olds. MNAC viewing-point See Sun 5. (Av. Icària, s/n). M: Take advantage of this rooftop Traditions Llacuna (L4). Guided visit to MIBA museum vantage-point to observe the city. and family workshop (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, FREE Sagrada Familia Festa Can you build an invention that L3; FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat Major Kids will allow an egg to fall 1.70m 10am-6pm; Sun, public holidays Concerts, theatre, art shows, without breaking? 10am-3pm. Mondays closed. €12. kids’ activities, sports, street See and touch sound MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). Sat from 3pm, free. Included in fairs and more. Find out about Reactable, the 5pm. €10. Recommended for museum entry-fee. Various venues. Apr 19-28. interactive digital instrument children 10-14 years. Info and M: Sagrada Família (L2, L5). created in Barcelona in 2003. booking: tickets@mibamuseum. Torre Bellesguard Museu de la Música (Lepant, com or 93 332 79 30. See Thu 2. FREE Human towers at the 150) M: Glòries (L1) , (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Tibidabo Sagrada Familia Monumental (L2 and Marina Puppet show: The Shoe Tree (FGC) As part of the neighbourhood (L4). 5.30pm. €2.50.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 39 Things to Do
Mateu’s whistle Zona Universitària (L3). Apr 24-26. Barcelona Maritime Museum (Av. Story time for the kids. Kids www.rcpolo.com de les Drassanes, s/n). M: Born CC (Pl. Comercial, 12). M: Drassanes (L3). 11.30am and Jaume I & Barceloneta (L4). Apr 11-- Feet on the ground 12.45pm. €4 adults, €2.50 kids. 12. Noon. See Wed 8. Fundació Joan Miró Saturday 25 (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Sundays at the theatre: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Tour Monday 27 Paper bubbles See Sun 12. Teatre Poliorama (La Santa Maria del Mar Tour Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, Thursday 23 rooftop Book your L3; FGC). Traditions See Thu 2. (Plaça de favourite Tour of Liceu Santa Maria, 1). M: restaurants at opera house Let’s experiment! Jaume I (L4). timeout.com/ See Sat 4. (La Rambla Combined family concert and FREE Sant Jordi barcelona 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). workshop. The streets Ɓll with books and (Palau de la Música, 4-6) M: roses to celebrate love and Saint Kids Urquinaona (L1, L4). 10.30am. €3 George, Catalonia’s patron saint. Tuesday 28 adults, €11 children. For kids aged Various venues, including La Guided visit to MIBA museum 5-10 years old. Rambla. www.bcn.cat. and family invention workshop Kids Kids unleash their inner inventor to Music of the world Ɓnd Ɓve solutions for Ɓve problems Bitxo Bot Family concert at historic venue. Tour in a creative workshop. See Sat 11. MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: (Palau de la Música, 4-6) M: MIBA (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). Jaume I (L4). 11.30am. €15. Urquinaona (L1, L4). Noon. €11. For Secret Basilica del Pi 5pm. €10. Recommended for children 6 and above. See Sat 4. Santa Maria del Pi children 6-12 years. More info and Church (Pl. del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3). booking: tickets@mibamuseum. Tour com or call 93 332 79 30. Monday 20 Sant Pau modernista The Secret Pedrera monument| Indiana Stones: let’s explore! See Mon 6. (Provença, 261-265). Tour See Mon 6. Hospital Sant Pau See Sat 11. La Pedrera M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (FGC). Palau de la Música Sant Pau-Dos de Maig (L5). (L3, L5) & Provença (FGC) See Mon 6. (Palau de la Música, 4-6) M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Wednesday 29 Friday 24 Sunday 26 The Secret Pedrera Football See Mon 6. (Provença, 261-265). Human towers Football M: Diagonal (L3, L5) and Provença * League fixture. FC (FGC). Castellers practice session * League fixture. RCD Barcelona – Getafe CF See Tue 7. (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot Espanyol – FC Barcelona Barça take on another Madrid (L1, L2;). 7pm. Confrontation between the two club. Date and time TBC. More Tuesday 21 biggest local sides. Date and time info: www.fcbarcelona.cat. Camp TBC. More info: www.rcdespanyol. Nou (Aristides Maillol, s/n). M: Les Tour Cinema com. Estadi Cornellà - El Prat (Av. Corts (L3). del Baix Llobregat, 100. Cornellà Torre Bellesguard D’A International de Llobregat). FGC: Cornellà Riera. See Thu 2. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. Festival Thursday 30 Tibidabo (FGC). Annual event dedicated to auteur cinema f rom around the world. Kids Human towers Includes retrospective of French Wednesday 22 director Bertrand Bonello. Pirate academy Castellers practice session CCCB (Montalegre, 5). M: Universitat Iron Fist the pirate is setting sail in See Tue 7. (Bilbao, 212). M: Clot Al fresco (L1, L2) & Catalunya (L1, L3). Until search of treasure, but he can’t do (L1, L2;). 7pm. May 3. www.cinemadautor.cat it alone! Barcelona Maritime FREE Roman festival of Museum (Av. de les Drassanes, Badalona s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). Sailing Sport 12pm. €4.50. For children Historical re-enactments from from 6-12 years. Set sail on the Santa when this was a Roman city. 47th International Polo Eulàlia Museu de Badalona (Pl. Tournament, BCN Polo Clàssic Trip on the Beagle Take a trip on a beautifully- Assemblea de Catalunya, 1, Teams compete in one of the Charles Darwin’s voyage restored three-masted schooner. Badalona). M: Badalona-Pompeu world’s oldest sports. recreated in an immersive Ɓlm Maritime Museum (Av. de les Fabra (L2). www.magnacelebratio. Reial Club de Polo de Barcelona (Av. projected inside the MMB’s Drassanes, s/n). M: Drassanes (L3). cat. Apr 24-27. Dr. Gregoirio Marañón, 19-31). M: planetarium. Sat 9.30am. €12 adults. €6 kids.
40 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Sights
Architecture opera houses: discover the Panoramic tour: €7 (audio guide A fascinating interactive journey impressive concert hall and to exterior + remains of Martin that uses 4-D technology to take Basílica de la exclusive private rooms that the Humane’s palace + you inside Gaudí’s creative Sagrada Família make this one of Barcelona’s audiovisual centre). Guided tour: universe. A new way to discover (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada most emblematic buildings. €16 (tower exterior and interior the architect and his world. Família (L2, L5). T. 93 513 20 60. + roof terrace access). English: Apr-Sep: 9am-8pm. Guided tour/ La Pedrera Mon-Sat 11am. Spanish: Mon, Tibidabo Amusement Park with audio guide: €19.50. (Provença, 261–265). M: Wed, Fri noon. Catalan: Tue, Thu, (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). Bus Barcelona’s most famous Diagonal (L3, L5). T. 902 202 Sat noon. Tibibus (T2A) from Plaça landmark, begun by Antoni Gaudí 138. 9am-8.30pm. Last Discover the modernista castle Catalunya. M: Av. Tibidabo (FGC) in 1891 and unƁnished to this admission: 8pm. €20.50. that Antoni Gaudí built at the + Tramvia Blau or Bus 196 + day. Ticket sales help fund the €16.50 (reduced). foot of Tibidado mountain. Funicular del Tibidabo. T. 93 211 ongoing construction of Spain’s Many Barcelona residents 79 42. More info: www.tibidabo. most popular tourist attraction. regard this as Gaudí’s true Leisure cat. Sky Walk: Mon-Fri 11am- masterpiece. The roof terrace 5pm; Sat, Sun: 11am-8pm. Basílica de represents modernista Aire de Barcelona, €12.70. Children measuring less Santa Maria del Pi architechture at its Ɓnest. Arab Baths than 120cm: €7.80. Amusement (Plaça del Pi, 7). M: Liceu (L3) + (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: park: Sat-Sun noon-8pm. Please Jaume I (L4). T. 93 318 47 43. Palau Güell Barceloneta (L4) & Jaume I (L4). note that opening hours for both Until Apr 7: Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: 6/QP(TK ƁTUV vary during Easter week – check Sun 5pm-7pm. Apr 8-Nov 10: Drassanes & Liceu (L3). T. 93 entry 10am; last entry between website for details. €28.50. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am- 472 57 75. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. 10pm and midnight; Sat, Sun Children under 120cm: €10.30. 6pm; Sun 5pm-8pm. €4. €3 Last admission: 7pm. Closed and days before public holidays: With over 100 years of history, (reduced). Guided tour (including Mon except public hols. last entry between midnight and Tibidabo is one of the oldest belltower): €12. €8 (reduced). €12. €8 (reduced). 2am. www.airedebarcelona.com. theme parks in the world, One of Barcelona’s grandest Built by Gaudí in the late 19th These Arab baths revive the featuring classic rides, old Gothic churches, with great century, this palace belonged to ancient tradition of bathing as a favourites and brand-new views from its belltower. his principal patron. The roof form of relaxation, in a gorgeous attractions with spectacular terrace shouldn’t be missed. setting. views over the city. Casa Batlló (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de Palau de la Música Barcelona Urban Forest PortAventura Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 216 03 Catalana (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El (Av. Alcalde Pere Molas. Km. 2. 06. 9am-9pm. €21.50. €18.50 (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 117 Vila Seca, Tarragona). Train: Port (reduced). Last admission: 8pm. Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 295 34 26. Apr: Sat, Sun 10am-3pm, Aventura. T. 902 20 22 20. For More info: www.casabatllo.cat. 72 00. 10am-3.30pm. Apr 2: 4pm-7pm. Easter week (Mar 28- prices and times contact tourist The sensuality and harmony of its 2.30pm-5pm. €18. €11 Apr 6): daily 10am-7pm. Apr 18: QHƁEGUQTXKUKVRQTVCXGPVWTCGU interior, combined with Gaudí’s (reduced). Under 10s free. 10am-3pm. €11-€27 (prices vary PortAventura is a theme park use of colours, shapes and light Step inside one of the most depending on age and circuit). located one hour south of make this a must-see for admirers beautiful modernista buildings Get some high-adrenaline Barcelona. Its six themed of the architect’s work. in the city, today a UNESCO exercise in an urban adventure zones (Mediterranean, Far World Heritage Site. park with over 30 attractions, West, Sesame Adventure, Gaudí Crypt including zip lines, bungee Mexico, China and Polynesia) at Colònia Güell Sant Pau, modernista jumping, trampolines and more. cover 119 hectares, with 30 (Claudi Güell, 6 – Santa Coloma monument attractions, 100 processions de Cervelló). M: Espanya (L1, L3) (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167). M: Poble Espanyol every day, 75 restaurants and & FGC (S4, S8, S33): Colònia Sant Pau (L5). T. 93 553 78 01. (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, snack bars, and 27 craft and Güell. T. 93 630 58 07. Mon-Fri Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun, 13). M: Espanya (L1, L3). T. 93 gift shops. 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun, public hols public hols 10am-2.30pm. Self- 508 63 00. Tue-Thu Sun 9am- 10am-3pm. €9 (incl. audio guide). guided tour: €8. €5.60 (reduced). midnight; Fri 9am-3am; Sat 9am- Barcelona Zoo €7.50 (reduced). Guided tour: €14. €9.80 (reduced). 4am. €12. €7, €8.40 (reduced). (Parc de la Ciutadella, s/n). M: Gaudí’s hidden treasure is a First Sunday of month, Apr 23 and Built for the 1929 Barcelona Arc de Triomf (L1) & Ciutadella/ UNESCO World Heritage Site under 16s free. More info: www. Expo by modernista architect Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 902 45 75 inside Colònia Güell, a planned santpaubarcelona.org. Puig i Cadalfach, Poble Espanyol 45. Until May 15: 10am-7pm. textile factory and residential Tour the buildings and grounds of is an open-air museum on €19.90. Children (ages 3-12): area 20 mins from Barcelona. Hospital Sant Pau, one of the Montjuïc with replicas of €11.95. world’s largest Art Nouveau streets, squares and buildings One of the city’s best-loved Gran Teatre del Liceu monuments, recently restored from all over Spain. Regularly attractions, which has been (La Rambla, 51–59). M: Liceu and opened to the public. hosts live music events. open for more than 100 years. (L3). T. 93 485 99 14. Guided Nowadays it’s home to more tour: Mon-Fri 9.30am, 10.30am. Torre Bellesguard Gaudí Experience than 2,000 animals €14. 30-minute tour: €6. (Bellesguard, 6-9). M: Av. (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). T. representing some 315 www.liceubarcelona.cat. Tibidabo (FGC). T. 93 250 40 93. 93 285 44 40. 10am-7pm. €9. species, and the dolphin and Visit one of the world’s great Tue-Sun 10am-3pm. Closed Mon. €7.50 (reduced). sealion shows draw big crowds.
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 41 Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] The Arts @eugeniasendra The diva’s eye Sophie Calle is a llegend of contemporary art, a revolutionary, a pioneer... Ahead of a new retrospective at La Virreina Image Centre, Eugènia Sendra talks with the artist “L’AUTRE” / “THE OTHER”, 1992 ©SOPHIE CALLE/ ADAGAP, PARIS, 2015. COURTESY GALERIE PERROTIN AND PAULA COOPER GALLERY COOPER GALLERY AND PAULA 2015. COURTESY GALERIE PERROTIN PARIS, 1992 ©SOPHIE CALLE/ ADAGAP, / “THE OTHER”, “L’AUTRE”
Known for her conceptual Histoires Vraies’, in which she without it. ‘It was the women who absence. ‘A man who leaves, a experiments and rituals, French recalls her disastrous beginnings spoke and wrote for me – I had to mother who dies, a blind person… artist Sophie Calle’s past projects with a camera. Calle prefers to Ɓnd my place. I think that’s why I in all my work there is absence, include inviting a group of vindicate herself as an artist: ‘I’m gave so much signiƁcance to the which I don’t go looking for, but it is strangers to sleep in her bed for not a great photographer, it’s not photography,’ says Calle. The the kind of idea that appeals to eight hours (‘Les Dormeurs’), the aspect of a project that most same goes for ‘Voir la Mer’ (2011), me,’ she admits. Circling around asking a group of women to interests me. There are projects a project carried out in Istanbul her projects are notions of re-create the moment they with local residents who had never loneliness, loss, memory, desire, received a break-up letter (‘Take seen the sea before, despite truth, what is public and what Care of Yourself’), and recording having it on their doorsteps. ‘I had private, beauty and elements her mother’s Ɓnal breath to be able They looked at them look at the sea with their captured from her own life story, to hear her last words (‘Rachel, backs to me, I didn’t want to get in which is protected under lock and Monique’). Currently on a break the camera with between them and the sea. In a key. ‘If old stories about me have from creating, the artist presents a those eyes that subtle way, by looking at their got out, it’s because I’ve found a collection of her works that backs, you can tell that something way to deal with them… if one of combine photography, live action had seen the sea is happening. Afterwards, I asked the thousands of rituals I have in and essays with a marked HQTVJGƁTUVVKOG them to look at the camera to show my life is used in my work, then I will autobiographical tone, at me those eyes that had seen the talk about my own story, but that’s Barcelona’s La Virreina. where it’s really important to me, sea for the Ɓrst time…’. enough – I have to keep something Labelling Calle as just a and others where the idea has Calle can spot artistic merit in the back for myself.’ photographer would be a mistake, more weight.’ most banal act and the most even if that genre has been a Calle often incorporates text with transcendental, but she doesn’t Sophie Calle. Modus Vivendi is constant in the work of the artist the photos and videos that explore get obsessed with the process; the running until June 7 at La Virreina who, in 2010, won the Hasselblad people’s daily lives. However, in results often transmit intimacy, (La Rambla, 99). Tel. 93 316 10 Award for ‘Les Autobiographies/ ‘Take Care of Yourself’ she did emptiness and, above all, 00. http://lavirreina.bcn.cat
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Talking your language If you fancy seeing a Ɓlm, Barcelona has various alternative cinemas offering a range of original language screenings. By Hannah Pennell
1. PHENOMENA 1 the beauty and music of the island After four years screening Ɓlms (Apr 2, 8pm, €4); and Retratos de old and new in different BCN memoria política (Portraits of cinemas, the organisers of Political Memory), two Ɓlms from Phenomena decided to take the Argentinian Germán Scelso looking next obvious step and open their at the lingering effects of the own place. They opted for the country’s dictatorship that saw closed-down Cine Nàpols and thousands killed (Apr 26, 6.30pm, last year spent six months €4). Montalegre, 5. www.cccb.org modernising its facilities. The two screens were converted into a 3. ZUMZEIG super-size one of 15 metres, An arthouse cinema with a bar while seating and projectors were that serves food! We’re not also updated. Films are shown talking popcorn and Kit Kats from Wednesday to Sunday with either, but well-made French and double features, cycles Catalan dishes, such as goose dedicated to various directors rillettes (similar to pâté), quiches such as Billy Wilder and his gem and brandada de bacallà Some Like It Hot (right) and kids’ (emulsion of salt cod and olive sessions all on offer. Sant Antoni oil). They also pour a good craft Maria Claret, 168. phenomena- 2 3 beer and, as you might expect experience.com from a cinema-bistrot, have an appealing wine list. For its 2. XCÈNTRIC programming, Zumzeig looks to Now in its 14th season, Xcèntric is Ɓlm-makers with a deƁned the CCCB’s ‘cinema series’, personal voice, whether they’re running each year from September talking philosophy, politics or to June, and featuring visionary society. Documentaries, such as Ɓlms from around the world. 2014’s Silvered Water, Syria Self- Currently in the middle of the Portrait (left, shown in March), March-May section of the 2015 indie Ɓlms and sessions for programme, this month’s agenda children all appear on the monthly includes: Soy Cuba (I am Cuba, changing line-up. Everything is shown right), a 1964 Soviet subtitled except the kids’ Ɓlms, propaganda Ɓlm, and although its which are dubbed in Catalan. intentions are clear, it still captures Bejar, 53. www.zumzeig-cine.eu
SPIRITUALISED Cultural activities in churches
BACH IN BARCELONA SECRET BASILICA DEL PI STA MARIA DEL MAR ROOFTOP GUITAR STARS IN SANTA ANNA Dutch cellist Jurgen van Win gives Explore one of Barcelona’s oldest Not only is this one of the loveliest Hidden just behind Plaça Catalunya, lunchtime (Mon, Wed) concerts of churches without the daytime crowds, churches in the city, but by visiting its this beautiful, cloistered church hosts works by JS Bach in the 12th-century by taking an evening candlelight tour roof, you’ll get a fantastic view across regular concerts of Spanish guitar, Sant Pau del Camp church. (Thu-Sat) of this Gothic gem. Barcelona and its surrounds. performed by various local musicians. www.bachinbarcelona.com www.adsentiabarcelona.com www.itineraplus.com www.spanishguitarbarcelona.com
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leads his quartet. (Ronda de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1, (L1, L4). 5pm. €24-€51. Kids Music L3). 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge €8. Peter and the Wolf Blues & Jazz ProkoƁev’s classic piece for Wednesday 1 chidlren, adapted for wind quintet Thursday 2 Blues and more at and narrator, with each Classical the MEAM instrumentalist playing a Catalan pop Pianist and vocalist Julio Lobos character n the story. Bach in Barcelona plays the blues. CaixaForum (Av. Francesc Ferrer i Twice a week, cellist Jurgen van FREE Born de Cançons 2015 MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Guàrdia, 6-8). M: Espanya (L1, L3; Win performs Bach’s Suites in an Up-and-coming Ƃamenco talent Jaume I (L4). 6pm. FGC). Sat 4 5.30pm; Sun 5 noon. €6. 11th-century monastery. Pere Martinez sings his own Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp version of Salvador Espriu’s poem VII Festival Jazz & Blues at (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel ‘Pell del Brau’, a critical allegory of Milano Cocktail Bar Flamenco (L2,L3). Mon & Wed 1pm. €16. post-war Spain. Serbian double bass player Ivan [email protected]. Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Kovacevic is one of the hardest- Live Flamenco T. 679 305 718. Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I, working Ɓgures on the Catalan Dancers Yasaray Rodriguez and Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. jazz scene. Eva Santiago, backed by cantaores, Spanish Guitar Maestros (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: guitar and the cajón. Barcelona Guitar Trio perform. Classical Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double Sala Tarantos (Plaça Reial, 17). M: Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Pl. session). Cover charge €8. Liceu (L3). 8.30pm, 9.30pm, 10.30 del Pi, 7). 9pm. €19 (discount at Mozart’s Requiem pm. €10 (on the door). €8 (web). VQWTKUVQHƁEGU The Russian State Symphony Orchestra performs Mozart’s Flamenco Requiem and his Symphony No. Sunday 5 Flamenco 40, the ‘Great G Minor Symphony.’. Opera&Flamenco ‘A Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau LoveStory’ Classical Palacio del Flamenco Show de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona A full cast performs the traditions Guitarists, singers and dancers, (L1, L4). 7pm. €22-€49 of opera, zarzuela and Ƃamenco. Raval’s Bolero and the rhythms of the cajón, heels Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau The Russian State Symphony and palms. (Balmes, 139). M: Spanish Guitar Maestros de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona perform popular classics, with Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Daily 6.25pm, Performance of traditional music (L1, L4). 9.30pm. €35-€49. Ravel’s Bolero, Rimski Korsakov’s 8.15pm, 10.30pm. Show only; show + from Barcelona 4 Guitars. Scheherezade and Dukas’ one drink; show + different menu Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Sorceror’s Apprentice. options. €45-€160 (discount at tourist de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Saturday 4 Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau QHƁEGU RCNCEKQFGNƂCOGPEQEQO (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Classical (L1, L4). 7pm. €22-€49. 45th Anniversary Tablao Cordobés Experimental Teatime classical music Spanish Guitar Maestros The Tabalao Cordobes celebrates ‘Promenade romantique’ with music Barcelona Guitar Trio perform. its 45th anniversary with the Tiger Menja Zebra by Frank, Debussy and Fauré. Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Pl. del passion of José Maya, the Tiger menja zebra’s second album MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Pi, 7). 9.30pm. €19 (discount at creative genius of Amador Rojas super ego made many best-of Jaume I (L4). 6pm. VQWTKUVQHƁEGU and the power of Karime Amaya lists for 2014. the three ex- (until Apr 10), and the elegance of members of camping continue to Spanish Guitar Belen López and María Juncal push the limits of musical Maestros Flamenco (from Apr 10). experimentation. Performance by Manuel González. (Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes/Liceu Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau The most authentic (L3). Daily 8.15pm, 10pm. €42.50. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9.30pm. €12 de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona contemporary flamenco at (on the door). €10 (in advance). (L1, L4). 9pm. €20-€40. Tablao Cordobés Gran Gala de Flamenc Live Ƃamenco in one of Barcelona’s Special show featuring bailaor most emblematic tablaos, with Nacho Blanco. Friday 3 Swing-Blues performances from some exciting Palau de la Música Catalana, (Palau new names on the scene. de la Música 4-6). M: Urquinaona Opera VII Festival Jazz & Blues at (La Rambla, 35). M: Drassanes (L3) (L1- L4). 9.30 pm. €20-€49. Milano Cocktail Bar & Liceu (L3). Daily 6.30pm, 8.15pm, Famous opera arias and Live blues and swing from 10pm and 11.30pm. €44-€78.50. choruses Barcelona’s nattiest band, led by Jazz With some of the best-known arias, charismatic Argentinean guitarist Opera & Flamenco ‘A Love preludes and choruses from great ‘Chino, ‘ Hernán Senra. Story’ VII Festival Jazz & Blues at composers including Verdi, Bizet, (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: See Fri 3. Teatre Poliorama (La Milano Cocktail Bar Puccini and Wagner. Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; Jazz trumpeter David Pastor Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau session). Cover charge €8. FGC). 9.30pm. €20-€49.
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Monday 6 GOOD TO SEE YOU AGAIN Country
Classical Born de Cançons 2015: Tomeu Penya. Take it from a cowboy Hollywood’s Greatest Veteran Mallorcan country artist Soundtracks Tomeu Penya has more than 25 The Cinema Symphony Orchestra albums to his credit. Catalan plays music from E.T., Titanic, country from a Balearic cowboy. Grease, Beauty and the Beast, West Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Side Story, The Wizard of Oz and 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4). Jurassic Park, among other Ɓ lms. 8pm. €10. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. €23-€50. Blues
Spanish Guitar Maestros Blues and more at the MEAM Barcelona Guitar Trio perform. Guitarist and singer Fede Aguado, Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Pl. del with Osi Martínez on harmonica. Pi, 7). 9pm. €19 (discount at tourist MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: QHƁEGU Morrissey Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Bach in Barcelona The former frontman for The Smiths comes to Barcelona See Wed 1. Monestir de Sant Pau for the second time in seven months, promoting his latest Catalan indie del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: album, World Peace Is None of Your Business (2014). This Paral·lel (L2,L3). The New Raemon time around, he’ll perform in more intimate surroundings. Concert to mark the ofƁ cial launch Razzmatazz. Wed 29, 8pm. €55 of Oh Rompehielos, the latest album Flamenco from the Barcelona indie outƁ t. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Grand Flamenco Gala de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Passionate performance that Flamenco Jazz (L1, L4). 9pm. €14. takes in some of the key styles of the classic Spanish music genre, Opera & Flamenco ‘A Love Live session at Jamboree including fandango and bulería. Story’ Noted Madrid-based jazz pianist Flamenco Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). See Fri 3. Palau de la Música Moisés P. Sanchez performs with M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). 7pm. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). his trio as part of the 1906 cycle. The most authentic €20-€49. M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu contemporary flamenco at (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on the door). Tablao Cordobés Palacio del Flamenco Show €10 (web). www.masimas.com See Sun 5. (La Rambla, 35). M: Tuesday 7 See Wed 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Drassanes (L3) & Liceu (L3). Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Havaneras Pop-rock Grand Flamenco Gala See Mon 6. Port-Bo, 50 years of havaneras Thursday 9 Glaucs 20th anniversary Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). Male vocal trio Port-Bo sing Fibromyalgia benefit concert M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Habaneres, the folk songs imported Classical The Catalan rock group from Begur from Cuba that became popular up on the Costa Brava celebrate 20 and down the Catalan coast. Cor Madrigal, Spiritual years on the road, with a concert to Jazz Palau de la Música Catalana minimalism raise funds for the Ɓ ght against (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Anton Serra, Ƃ ute, and Jaume Ɓ bromyalgia. Jazz at Milano Cocktail Bar Urquinaona (L1, L4). 7pm. Torrent on guitar perform works Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: Live blues, jazz, boogie-woogie and €12, €15. by Locatelli, Loeillet and Molino. Diagonal (L3, L5). 7pm. €28. swing in a city-centre cocktail bar. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Catalunya (L1, L3). Wednesday 8 (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15, €25. Friday 10
Classical Classical Saturday 11 Flamenco Bach in Barcelona Spanish Guitar Maestros Classical See Wed 1. Palacio del Flamenco Show Performance from Barcelona Guitar Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp See Wed 1. (Balmes, 139). M: Trio. Palau de la Música Catalana Immortals of Cinema (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). Daily (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: The Valles Symphony Orchestra (L2,L3). 6.40pm, 8.30pm & 9.40pm. Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. under Rubén Gimeno play the
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 45 The Arts great cinema soundtracks. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Monestir de Sant Pau del Camp Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau 8pm. €15-€65. Classical (Sant Pau, 101). M: Paral·lel de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L2,L3). (L1, L4). 7pm. €16-€48. Reial Academia classical Classical music Kristian Bezuidenhout Teatime classical music Anton Serra (Ƃute) and the Nova See Tue 14. Palau de la Música 17th and 18th century Gustav Mahler Orquestra de Cambra Germans Pla Catalana (Palau de la Música, masterpieces for bass tones. Jugendorchester conducted by Josep Maria Sauret 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Works by Vivaldi, J.S. Bach, The Youth Orchestra plays Mahler’s perform ‘Bach’s popular and Leclair, Lully and Lupo. Symphony no. 2 in C minor, brilliant bandinerie sets the stage Spanish Guitar Maestros MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: ‘Resurrection’, with conductor for own composers.’ Performance by Xavier Coll. Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Johann Nott, Chen soprano, Reial Academia de Belles Arts de Palau de la Música Catalana Christa Meyer, mezzo-soprano, the Sant Jordi (Pg Isabel II, 1-7, 4-6). M: (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Palau de la Música Chamber Choir Jaume I and Barceloneta (L4), Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. Rumba flamenca and the choir of the Orfeó Català. Drassanes (L3). 8pm. €12 (with €30-€35. Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau reservation). €15 (without Los Chichos de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona reservation). Legendary purveyors of the (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €20-€125. Thursday 16 stripped-down, streetwise Kristian Bezuidenhout, Palau Ƃamenco style known as the 100 Classical rumba since 1973, Los Chichos Flamenco South African fortepianist Kristian present their greatest hits on Bezuidenhout performs the third Elisabeth Leonskaja, double album 40+1 Aniversario. Opera & Flamenco ‘A Love instalment of his long-term project Palau 100 Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113). Story’ to interpret all of Mozart’s sonatas The grande dame of the piano, M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 7.30pm. €25 See Fri 3. Teatre Poliorama (La for fortepiano. Elisabeth Leonskaja, celebrates (on the door). €20 (in advance). Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau her 70th birthday with a L3; FGC). de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona performance of works by (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €15. Schubert: his sonatas 4 and 21, Pop and the Wanderer Fantasy. Monday 13 Palau de la Música Catalana Núria Graham Folk–Country–Rock (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Catalan guitarist and singer- Classical Urquinaona (L1, L4). 8.30pm. songwriter Núria Graham has The Jayhawks €30-€35. earned comparisons to St. Vincent. Bach in Barcelona The 1997 line-up of Minneapolis Her Ɓrst album Bird Eyes is due out See Wed 1. Monestir de Sant Pau alt-country rockers The Jayhawks this May. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: on tour to mark the re-release of Flamenco M: Glòries, Marina (L1) and Paral·lel (L2,L3). their classic albums Sound of Lies Monumental (L2). 9pm. €15. (1997), Smile (2000) and Rainy 45th Anniversary Tablao Hector París Day Music (2003). Cordobés Suite Festival: Antonio Orozco Organist Hèctor París plays J.S. Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, See Wed 1. (Rambla, 35). M: One of the most proliƁc and Bach’s Prelude and Fugue in B L3). 9pm. €22-€25. Drassanes/Liceu (L3). successful singer-songwriters minor and works by Vivancos, on the Spanish pop scene, Ginastera and Liszt. Antonio Orozco performs Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Wednesday 15 Singer-songwriter ‘Único’, a show that looks back de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona over his entire career. (L1, L4). 8.30pm. €6. Singer-songwriter Ferran Palau Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, Palau at the Palau: Ferran Palau 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €15-€65. Banc Sabadell 16th Festival presents the ofƁcial launch of Flamenco Mil·lenni: Scott Matthew second solo album Santa Ferida. Australian crooner Scott Matthew Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau Kids 45th Anniversary Tablao brings his ‘quivering, otherworldly’ de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Cordobés singing style to his own (L1, L4). 9pm. €10. Peter and the Wolf See Wed 1. (Rambla, 35). M: melancholic songwriting on new See Sat 4. CaixaForum (Av. Drassanes/Liceu (L3). album This Here Defeat, released Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8). M: last month. Pop Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries, Tuesday 14 Marina (L1) and Monumental (L2). Christina Rosenvinge 9pm. €20-€28. Spanish singer-songwriter Sunday 12 Flamenco Rosenvinge plays with her band as part of the Guitar BCN Pop Grand Flamenco Gala Classical festival. See Mon 6. L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Suite Festival: Antonio Orozco Teatre Poliorama (La Rambla, Bach in Barcelona Glòries, Marina (L1) and See Sat 11. Gran Teatre del Liceu 115). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). See Wed 1. Monumental (L2). 9pm. €25.
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Ferrer on piano. Jazz MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Jazz concerts at Jamboree One of Spain’s best-known jazz groups, led by Ignasi Terraza on Pop piano, play a special collaboration with French Born de Cançons 2015: saxophonist Pietro Pedron. Sanjosez. Alegria Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Carlos Sanjosé, the Catalan Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €12 (on musician from La Bisbal better the door). €10 (web). known by his stage name www.masimas.com Sanjosex, performs songs from his upbeat new album Festival. Born Cultural Centre (Pl. Comercial, Friday 17 12). M: Jaume I, Barceloneta (L4). 8pm. €10. Opera
Carmen Singer-songwriter The heroine of Prosper Mérimée’s 1845 novel Carmen became the Gemma Humet archetypal ‘femme fatale:’ a Humet, one of the newest and woman who lives and loves as she most refreshing voices on the wishes – but whose need for Catalan scene presents new freedom dooms herself and those album Si Canto Enrere. around her. Calixto Bieito’s Palau de la Música Catalana production, set in a car cemetery (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: in an undeƁned South, strips Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9pm. €12. Bizet’s opera-comique of its folkloric baggage, emphasising the call for women’s freedom in a Saturday 18 male-dominated world. Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Flamenco Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Apr 17, 20, 23, 26, 29 8pm; Sun Rafael Amargo and 5pm. €9-€176. friends Spanish choreographer, dancer Classical and, since 2011, director of the Comañía Flamenca de Spanish Guitar Maestros Catalunya performs in luxurious Performance by Manuel González. surrounds. Palau de la Música Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona Urquinaona (L1, L4). 9.30pm. (L1, L4). 9pm. €30-€35. €20-€49.
Flamenco Classical
Flamenco at Palau Dalmases Teatime classical music Live Ƃamenco in the evocative Music by Tosti, Cardillo, Di surroundings of the courtyard of a Capua, Puccini, Mascagni and stately 17th-century palace. Verdi. (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Mon-Thur 7.30pm. Fri-Sun 7.30pm Jaume I (L4). 6pm. and 9.30pm. €20. Cantatas for the Ascension Swing and groove J.S.Bach’s cantatas BVW 43, 37 and 11, with the Palau de la Blues and more at the Música Chamber Choir under MEAM Josep Vila i Casañas. Vocalist Augi Burr, with Big Dani Església de Santa Maria del Pi Pérez on saxophone and Marc (Pl. del Pi, 7). 7.30pm. €20.
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113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 9pm. Cohen all rolled into one. The VII Festival Jazz & Blues at Jazz €39 (on the door). €29 (in closing concert of his tour of the Milano Cocktail Bar advance). Latin world is guaranteed a Johanna Jari Quartet. VII Festival Jazz & Blues at rapturous, sell-out audience. (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Milano Cocktail Bar Palau Sant Jordi (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double Big Dani Pérez’s Organic Trio Monday 20 M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 9.30pm. session). Cover charge €8. featuring Santos Puertas. €30-€185. (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Opera Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm Flamenco (double session). Cover charge €8. Carmen Electronic See Fri 17. Gran Teatre del Liceu Palacio del Flamenco (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Suite Festival: Kraftwerk Show Sunday 19 Legendary electronic See Sun 1. (Balmes, pioneers Kraftwerk, Find the 139). M: Diagonal (L3, Classical Classical whose career has latest L5, FGC). Daily art reviews fused the pop melodies timeout.com/ 6.25pm, 8.15pm & Percussion instruments Bach in Barcelona of the Beach Boys with Barcelona 10.30pm. large and small: keyboards See Wed 1. Monestir de Sant Pau the avant-garde and castanets del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: electronic experiments of Using instruments from the Paral·lel (L2,L3). Karlheinz Stocjhausen. Pop–Rock museum’s collection, Belén Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Cabanes and Marina Rodríguez Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). La Unión investigate the unique sound of Electronic 9pm. €15-€135. Few Spanish groups have the castanets and its role in survived the vagaries of fashion music and dance. Matthew Herbert as well as La Unión, the Spanish Museu de la Música (Lepant, Starting out as an electronic Thursday 23 new wave three-piece whose 150). M: Glòries, Marina (L1), musician, Matthew Herbert’s recent album Hip.Gnosis Vol.2 Monumental (L2). Noon. €7. subsequent career deƁes Opera reworks ’80s hits such as ‘Lobo classiƁcation. This tour marks the Hombre en París,’ and ‘Sildavia’. Musical Residencies 2014- release of new album Shake and Carmen Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel 2015: Òscar Alabau, cellist the 20th anniversary of his debut See Fri 17. Gran Teatre del Liceu (L2, L3). 9pm. €18, €25. One of Catalonia’s most Letsallmakemistakes. (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). talented young cellists Barts (Av. Para·lel, 6). M: Paral·lel (L2, performs a solo recital, L3). 9pm. €25-€35. Alternative rock including a new piece for solo Pop-folk cello by Jean-Sélim Banc Sabadell 16th Abdelmoula. Tuesday 21 Els Catarres Millennium Festival: Vetusta La Pedrera (Provença, 261). M: Catalan pop-folk group Els Catarres Morla Diagonal (L3, L5). 6pm. €12. Classical soared to fame in 2011 with their The alternative rockers from YouTube hit ‘Jenifer’ about the love Madrid have added this second Marcos Padmore-Paul Lewis, Stroll through the world of of a proud Catalan for a girl from date to the Barcelona leg of their Palau 100 the trio Castelldefels. tour, having sold out Saturday’s Tenor Mark Padmore performs Selection of works written for trios Sant Jordi Club (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). M: concert months in advance. Schubert’s Die Schöne with piano. Reial Academia de Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). 9pm. €14. Presenting recent album A la Müllerin, accompanied by Belles Arts de Sant Jordi (Pg Isabel deriva, they’re a band at the pianist Paul Lewis. II, 1-7, 4-6). M: Jaume I and height of their powers, exploring Palau de la Música Catalana Barceloneta (L4), Drassanes (L3). Flamenco the possibilities of their unique, (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: 8pm. €12 (with reservation). €15 emotionally charged style. Urquinaona (L1,L4). 6pm. €30, (without reservation). 45th Anniversary Tablao Sant Jordi Club (Pg. Olímpic, 5-7). €40. Cordobés M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC). Spanish Guitar Maestros See Wed 1. (Rambla, 35). M: 9pm. €28 See Thu 2. Palau de la Música Drassanes/Liceu (L3). Musical Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). Saturday 25 RuPaul’s Drag Race: Battle Friday 24 of Seasons Classical Drag diva RuPaul’s search for Wednesday 22 Jazz the queen of the queens hits Teatime classical Barcelona. Be prepared for Singer-songwriter Jazz Moustache music spectacular musical numbers, Bernat Guarné on the clarinet, Excerpts from the zarzuelas of parodies, lip-syncing, comedy, Joaquín Sabina Jacob Marcé and Diego Mena, Sorozábal, Barbieri and Millán in outrageous circus tricks Poet and singer-songwriter Sabina manouche guitar and Brady Lynch, memory of Marcos Redondo. and more. is a living legend, Spain’s answer to double bass. MEAM (Barra de MEAM (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Bob Dylan, Tom Waits and Leonard Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Jaume I (L4). 6pm.
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Jazz Wednesday 29
VII Festival Jazz & Blues at Opera Milano Cocktail Bar A Contrablues. Carmen (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: See Fri 17. Gran Teatre del Liceu Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). (double session). Cover charge €8. Jazz Sunday 26 Jazz concerts at Jamboree Flamenco Considered a true enfant terrible of his generation, saxophonist Palacio del FlamencoShow James Carter has daring, See Wed 1. (Balmes, 139). M: boldness and intesnity to match Diagonal (L3, L5, FGC). the jazz greats he reveres. His trio, with Hammond organ and drums, has lit up stages all over the world. Jazz-Swing Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €35 (on the Jazz and swing with the door). €30 (web). Barcelona Jazz Orchestra www.masimas.com One Sunday per month, Apolo puts on its Sunday best for the popular and lively Jazz & Swing Thursday 30 soirées with the Orquestra. Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Opera 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). 7.30pm. €18 (on the door). I Due Foscari Concert version of Verdi’s sixth opera I due Foscari, based on Monday 27 Byron’s play about a dying Doge of Venice. With the Symphony Classical of the Gran Teatre del Liceu under Massimo Zanetti and Plácido Bach in Barcelona Domingo as Francesco. See Wed 1. Monestir de Sant Pau Gran Teatre del Liceu (La del Camp (Sant Pau, 101). M: Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). Paral·lel (L2,L3). 8pm. €9-€199.
Tuesday 28 Jazz
Classical VII Festival Jazz & Blues at Milano Cocktail Bar Reial Academia classical Chino and the Big Bet. music (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Two high-voltage quartets. Catalunya (L1, L3). 8.30pm (double Reial Academia de Belles Arts de session). Cover charge €8. Sant Jordi (Pg Isabel II, 1-7, 4-6). M: Jaume I and Barceloneta Jazz concerts at Jamboree (L4), Drassanes (L3). 8pm. €12 A hugely inƂuential Ɓgure in (with reservation). €15 (without psychedelic rock and folk since reservation). the late seventies, Robyn Hitchcock combines melodic mastery with lyrical eccentricity Flamenco in his most recent solo album The Man Upstairs. 45th Anniversary Tablao Jamboree (Pl. Reial, 17). M: Cordobés Liceu (L3). 8pm, 10pm. €18 (on See Wed 1. (Rambla, 35). M: the door). €15 (web). www. Drassanes/Liceu (L3). masimas.com
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Can Framis. Fundació Vila Casas Istotxnikov, who disappeared from Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries his spacecraft in October 1968. (Aragò, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia Exhibitions (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). Year 2100 experiment No end (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue- T. 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat 11am- date. What might life be like in the Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Mon. €7. 6pm; Sun 11am-2pm. Closed Mon, year 2100 and the 22nd century? Students and pensioners, €5.60. Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona public holidays and Easter (Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: Arc de weekend. €5. Reduced: €2. Centre Comercial Las Arenas Maria Lassnig Until May 31. Work Triomf (L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 (Cúpula del Centre Comercial Las by the Austrian artist, who passed 34 20. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Closed The Art of Collecting Until Jul 19. Arenas. Plaça d’Espanya, s/n). M: away last year. Sun and public holidays. Paintings, photos and sculpture Espanya (L2-L3-FGC). Mon-Sun and Antoni Tàpies. Collection # 10 from collection of Ventura Garcés. public holidays, 10am-9pm. (Last Until May 31. Another range of Antoni Capella, society Painted in 2014 Until Jul 19. Works admission 8pm). €12. Reduced: €7. works by the late Catalan artist. photographer Until Oct 3. Catalan by Manolo Ballesteros. Under 7s free. www.humanbodies.eu snapper whose subjects included Fundació Francisco Godia the Liceu and Ràdio Barcelona. Castell de Montjuïc Human Bodies Until April. An (Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya exhilarating journey inside the Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) & Provença Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. Oct- human body. (FGC). T. 93 272 31 80. Mon-Sat Barcelona Mar: Mon-Sun and public holidays 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-3pm. (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume I (L4) & 10am-6pm. €5. Reduced: €3. El Born Centre Cultural Closed Tue. €7. Reduced: €4. Urquinaona (L1, L4). T. 93 256 22 (Plaça Comercial, 12). M: Jaume I 55. Mon-Fri 9am-8.45pm; Sat 9am- Montjuïc, the construction of a (L4) & Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 256 Permanent exhibition Works by 1pm. Closed Sun & public holidays. castle Permanent exhibition. 68 51. Tue-Sun and public Ramon Casas, Santiago Rusiñol, Doble Creu Sculpture by Carles holidays, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon Joan Miró and Miquel Barceló. FREE Eating in Barcelona. A Berga. Permanent exhibition. (except public holidays). €6. century of menus from the Archive Montjuïc Stone Barcelona Until Reduced: €4. Under-16s free. Sun Fundació Joan Miró (1880-1980) Until Apr 30. The Jun 15. Exploration of how the city 3pm-8pm free. First Sun every (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: socialisation of eating out in the city. was built using this local material. month free, 10am-8pm. Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Oct-Jun: Tue-Sat 10am- Blue Project Foundation CCCB El Born Centre Cultural Under the 7pm; Thu 10am-9.30pm; Sun & (Princesa, 57). M: Arc de Triomf (L1) (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1, cast-iron structure of one of the public holidays 10am-2.30pm. & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 182 43 71. Tue- L3). T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & city’s 19th-century markets lie Closed Mon (except public Sun, 10am-8pm. Mon, closed. €3. public holidays 11am-8pm. 5-6 Jan extensive remains from the holidays). €11. Temporary 11am-3pm. Closed Mon (except 1700s. exhibition: €7. Espai 13: €2.50. Un nuage sur mes épaules Until public holidays). €6. Reduced entry Barcelona 1700. From stones to Jun 7. First solo exhibition in for pensioners and students on Wed people. Permanent exhibition Prophetia Until May 4. Various Barcelona for French artist Lionel (except public holidays): €4. Under- 18th-century Barcelona was artists look at the development of Esteve. 16s & unemployed: free. dynamic and forward-looking, but the European project. Luz Broto Apr 15-May 24. marked by the wars that affected In Cycling: The Wilson Exercises Arissa. The shadow and the the city from 1691 to 1714. Until Jun 21. Collaborative project CaixaForum photographer, 1922-1936 Until Until it is done! The siege of 1714 between US artist Anna Craycroft (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). Apr 12. See page 53. No end date. Examining the 14- and Spaniard Marc Vives. M: Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 476 Shadowland by Kazuhiro Goshima month siege of Barcelona that La notte, 1961 Until May 24. 86 00. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults Until Apr 12. Film installation ended with capitulation to Bourbon Photos by art critic and curator €4. Under 16s free. projected in 3-D. troops on September 11, 1714. Frederic Montornès with the night Sebald Variations Until Jul 26. Futbolnet. Values through as a recurring theme. Pixar: 25 years of animation Author W.G. Sebald is acclaimed football Until Apr 12. FC Barcelona Until May 3. A behind-the- for his turn-of-millennium works. initiative to encourage debate and Fundació Suñol computer look at the mega- understanding amongst teens. (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal successful animation company. CosmoCaixa The Reaper’s Revolt Apr 14-Mar (L3, L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri Moche culture from ancient (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo 31, 2016. 11am-2pm & 4-8pm; Sat 4-8pm. Peru. Gold, myths and rituals Until (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun Closed Sun and public holidays. €4. Jun 7. Artworks created almost and public holidays 10am-8pm. Espai VolART-Fundació Vila Reduced: €2. 2,000 years ago by the Moche Closed Mon (except public Casas people from northern Peru, holidays). €4 (permanent and (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona Italia. I Sei Sensi Until Jan 9, revealing how they saw the world. temporary exhibitions). Under 16s (L1, L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri 2016. Re-examination of late 20th- Three narratives. Memory Until free. First Sun of month free. 5pm-8.30pm; Sat 11am-2pm, century Italian works held in the Jun 21. Works from the “la Caixa” 5pm-8.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm. collection of the Suñol Foundation. contemporary art collection. Permanent exhibition Closed Mon and public holidays. Miquel Mont. Never is enough FREE I see what you can’t Until Barcelona’s science museum that €1. Reduced: 50¢. Until Apr 25. Barcelona-born artist May 24. The creative world of covers more than 50,000m2. now based in Paris exhibits his people diagnosed with autism. Sputnik. The Soyuz 2 Odyssey Jordi Fornàs / Joan Pedragosa simple, striking paintings. FREE Windows of the world Until Until May 31. Delving into the Until Apr 26 Acte 31: Thibault Brunet. From Aug 31. Short Ɓlms portraying life mystery of what happened to Subirà-Puig, son of the trees 0 to 1. From 1 to 0 Until Apr 25. in Africa, Asia and South America. cosmonaut Colonel Ivan Until Apr 26 Show from French photographer.
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Hash Marihuana & Hemp Changes in art and society between Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €7. Poisoned. The most venemous Museum the late ’70s and early ’80s. Reduced: €5. Under-16s free. Free animals in nature Until Dec (Ample, 35). M: Drassanes (L3). T. Car je est un autre. Pep admission Sun from 3pm. Discover how natural poisons can 93 319 75 39. Every day 10am- Dardanyà Until May 24. both kill and save. 10pm. €7.50. Under-13s free. Questioning the touching-up of Permanent exhibition An photos, used so often in archaeological tour of the Roman Museu de Badalona Permanent exhibition The past, advertising. colony of Barcino, the origins of (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). present and future of the cannabis Osvaldo Lamborghini Until Sept the city we know today. Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93 plant and its various uses. 6. Looking back on the life and Haggadot Until Jul 5. 15th-century 384 17 50. Tue-Sat 10am-2pm, work of this Argentinian writer. Barcelona and Catalan haggadots 5pm-8pm; Sun & public holidays Jardí Botànic Past disquiet Until May 18. Re- (illlustrated Jewish Easter texts), 10am-2pm. €6.48. Reduced: €2.16. (Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: examination of the international art considered the Ɓnest in Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 256 41 show held in 1978 in support of the world. Permanent exhibition Visit 60. Apr-Sep: daily, 10am-7pm. Palestine. Barcelona in late the underground remains of Find the €3.50. Reduced: €1.70. antiquity times Until latest Baetulo, a Roman City. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Jul 14. Exhibition of art reviews Intimates. History of Jardí Botànic (MCNB) Plants from Modern archaeology. timeout.com/ underwear, 19th-21st Mediterranean climate zones all (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Barcelona century Until Jun 14 over the world. T. 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am- MUHBA Refugi 307 Checking out what we’ve Salvadoriana. Barcelona’s cabinet 8pm. €7. Reduced: €5. (Nou de la Rambla, 169). been wearing under our clothes of curiosities Until Feb 2016. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 93 256 21 for the past few hundred years. Reconstruction of one of BCN’s 21st-century art. Permanent 22. Sun: guided visits by earliest natural history collections. exhibition from the museum’s appointment only. 10.30am, Museu de Montserrat Bonsai Until Jun Mini tree display. collection with almost 300 11.30am, 12.30pm. Closed (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 paintings and 80 sculptures. public holidays. €3.40. Montserrat). Monistrol de Montserrat. La Pedrera – Fundació Catalunya Golucho. An anthropological T. 93 877 77 45. Mon-Sun 10am- (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal exhibition. Until Apr 12. Madrid MUHBA Refugi 307 400 metres 5.30pm. €7. Reduced: €4. (L3, L4; FGC). T. 902 202 138. 9am- artist Miquel Ángel Mayo, of underground passageways bear 8.30pm. €3.50. Reduced: €1.70. ‘Golucho’, is a self-taught painter witness to the city’s suffering Permanent Exhibition Paintings by who learnt his trade studying works during the Civil War. El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, Leopold Pomés. Flashback Until at the Prado and Retiro. Barcelona during the Civil War. Degas, Pissarro, Dalí and Picasso. Jul 12. See page 53. Revolution and bombing Something sacred from Jiménez- MIBA. Museu d’Idees i Invents Until May 9. Balaguer Until Jul 5. La Virreina Centre de la Imatge de Barcelona (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 332 MUHBA Santa Caterina MEB: Museu de l’Eròtica 316 10 00. Tue-Sun and public 79 30. Tue-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm- (Pl. de Joan Capri). T. 93 256 21 22. (La Rambla, 96). M: Catalunya (L1, holidays, 12pm-8pm. 7pm; Sat 11am-8pm; Sun, public Mon-Sat 10am-2pm. Closed Sun L3). T. 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun 10 holidays 10am-2pm. Closed Mon and public holidays. am-12pm. Adults €9. Reduced: €8 FREE Jordi Socías. Found (except public holidays). €8. photographs Until Apr 26. See Reduced: €6. FREE Permanent exhibition. Permanent exhibition The page 53. Archaeological display among the history of eroticism. FREE Sophie Calle. Modus Vivendi Permanent exhibition The foundations of the Santa Caterina Until Jun 7. French photographer fascinating world of creativity and market. Museu de la Moto de known for her insight into concepts inventing. Barcelona of privacy and human vulnerability. MUHBA Turó de la Rovira (C/ de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584. See page 42. MUHBA Park Güell (Marià Labèrnia s/n). T. 93 256 21 Until Jun 14: Tue-Sat 10.30am- (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 22. Mon-Fri 5pm-8pm; Sat, Sun 2.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun MACBA. Museu d’Art 256 21 22. Oct 27-Mar 28: daily, 11am-8pm. 10.30am-2.30pm. Closed Mon. Contemporani 8.30am-6.15pm. Mar 29-May 3: (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat daily, 8am-8pm. The Casa de la City viewpoint Revel in the bird’s- The history of the motorbike in (L1, L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 Guarda museum in Park Güell is eye views from this perch on top of Catalonia 36 of the most 412 08 10. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; part of the ‘monumental area’ of the hill overlooking the city. representative models. Sat 10am-9pm; Sun, public holidays the park, and visits are covered by Permanent exhibition Barcelona Bultaco, a legendary motorbike 10am-3pm. Closed Tues (except general conditions for admission. to the limit. Until Nov. The musem pays homage public holidays). Whole museum Access with ticket only. More to one of the greatest Spanish ticket: €10. Reduced: €8. information: www.parkguell.cat. Museu Blau motorbike manufacturers. (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc Art & Language: Uncompleted. Permanent exhibition The Casa del Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum Museu de la Música The Philippe Meaille collection de la Guarda, Park Güell and (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Sat (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: Until Apr 12. Conceptual works modernista Barcelona. 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays Glòries (L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93 from the Art & Language 10am-8pm. Closed Mon (except 256 36 50. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; movement. MUHBA Plaça del Rei public holidays). €6. Reduced: Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. €5. Collection 2014: The (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 €2.70. Museum & Botanical Reduced: €3.50. Free admission Immaterial Legacy Until Jun. 256 21 22. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Gardens €7. Reduced €5. Sun from 3pm.
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Phonos, 40 years of Design for life Until May 17. artworks and objects. played by the aristocracy, wealthy electronic music in Barcleona. Looking at how design can provide Maillol and Greece Apr 27-Nov 22. and even some popes. Until Sep 27. The Phonos the answer to everyday problems. Sculptor Aristides Maillol took a laboratory was created in 1974 trip to Greece in 1908, a voyage Museu Picasso and became a Spanish pioneer Museu del Futbol Club that saw him inspired to develop (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). in electro music, through Barcelona his own artistic style. T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; experimentation and (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Gates 7 or 9). Thu 9am-9.30pm. Closed Mon composition. M: Les Corts (L3). T. 902 18 99 00. Museu Marítim de Barcelona (except public holidays). €14 Voices of the Mediterranean. Apr-Oct: Daily 9.30am-7.30pm (Av. de les Drassanes, s/n). M: (combined ticket for museum + Until Jul 26. Bringing together (some parts of tour are closed on Drassanes (L3). T. 93 342 99 20. temporary exhibition). Collection examples of voices from countries match day). €23. Children: €17. Daily 10am-8pm. €5. Reduced: €4. only: €11. Temporary exhibition around the Med, including Italy, Under 6s & FCB members, free. only: €6.50. Croatia, Greece, Egypt and Algeria. Underwater cameras. The Camp Nou Experience Discover challenges of submarine Permanent exhibition More than Museu de la Xocolata 100 years of the club’s history and photography (Naus de les 3,800 works from different periods (Comerç, 36 - Antic Convent de Sant visit the stadium. See page 34. Drassanes) Until Apr 12. The in Picasso’s life. Agustí). M: Arc de Triomf (L1). T.93 evolution of underwater images. Picasso/Dalí, Dalí/Picasso View 268 78 78. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Museu del Mamut Catalonia Cities Until Apr 26. Show works by the two great 20th- Sun 10am-3pm. €5. Groups: €4. (Montcada, 1). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 inspired by the 100th anniversary century artists in parallel. 268 85 20. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. in 2014 of the Catalan Permanent exhibition €7.50. Reduced: €5. Children (6- Mancomunitat, which started Palau Robert The story of chocolate, from its 15): €3.50 investigating the local territory. (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal origins to its arrival in Europe. Barcelona World Race Until Apr 6. (L3, L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat Permanent exhibition Exhibition focused on the biennial 10am-7pm; Sun, public holidays Museu de les Cultures del Món See remains of woolly mamoths sailing regatta that sees teams 10am-2.30pm. (Montcada, 12-14). M: Jaume I (L4). and other Ice Age animals. compete to be the Ɓrst to return to T. 93 256 23 00. Tue-Sat 10am- the starting port of Barcelona. FREE 100 years of the 7pm; Sun and public holidays Museu del Modernisme Català professional librarian Until May 10. 10am-8pm. Closed Mondays (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia Museu Nacional d’Art de Study of the work of these (except public holidays). €5. (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon- Catalunya indispensable bibliophiles. Reduced: €3.50. Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1, FREE Catalunya Moto Until Oct 25. €10. Reduced: €7. L3, FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Oct-Apr: Show that looks at the history of Permanent exhibition Art, Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun, public motorcycles in Catalonia, covering books, and other objects gathered Permanent exhibition holidays 10am-3pm. Closed Mon themes of industry, society, on expeditions to Asia, Africa, 350 works by 42 of the most (except public holidays). €12. Free competition and technology. Oceania and the Americas. important artists of the Catalan entry Sat afternoon, from 3pm. FREE RCR Architects. Shared modernisme movement. Temporary shows: ask at museum. creativity Until Sep 13. Museu del Disseny Admission includes admission to FREE Treasures Until Apr 26. de Barcelona Museu Egipci de Barcelona the museum’s roof terraces. 'FKƁEK&KUUGP[*WD$CTEGNQPC2N (València, 284). M: Passeig de Pis-museu Casa Bloc de les Glòries Catalanes, 37-38). M: Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 93 488 01 88. Permanent exhibition World’s (C. d’Almirall Pròixida, 1-3-5). M: Glòries (L1). T. 93 256 68 00. Tue- Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- most important collection of Torras i Bages (L1). Guided visit by Sun 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. More 2pm. €11. Reduced: €8. Romanesque art and Catalan appt. in Catalan, Spanish and information: museudeldisseny.cat modernisme. English: reservations must be made Permanent exhibition Almost a Gabriel Casas Apr 22-Aug 30. before Thu. Guided tours: Sat 11am From the world to the museum. thousand exhibits provide a See opposite page. & 12.30pm. 93 256 68 01. Product design, cultural heritage glimpse into life in Ancient Egypt. Metal stories. Art and power in Information line: Tue-Fri 10am-1pm; Permanent exhibition. Daily objects Tutankhamun. Story of a European medals Until Oct 18. Sat, Sun 3-5.30pm. More info: www. considered from a museum discovery No end date. Medal-making across the continent museudeldisseny.cat. perspective. Remembering the archeological between the 1600s and 1800s. Dressing the body. Silhouettes expedition of 1922 that uncovered Casa Bloc A symbol of rational and fashion (1550-2014) the pharaoh’s tomb. Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport Joan social housing in Barcelona. Permanent exhibition. How women Antoni Samaranch change their shape with clothes. Museu Frederic Màres (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: Reial Monestir de Santa Maria Extraordinary! Decorative and (Pl. de Sant Iu, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T. Espanya (L1, L3, FGC). T. 93 292 53 de Pedralbes applied arts collections (3rd-20th 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; 79. Oct-Mar: Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: century) Permanent exhibition. Sun, public holidays 11am-8pm. Sun, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Reina Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 Pieces of art from across the Closed Mon (except public holidays). Closed Mon (except public holidays). 34 34. Oct-Mar: Tues-Fri, 10am- centuries including ceramics, €4.20. Reduced: €2.40. €5.10. Students: €3.20. Under-7s 2pm; Sat & Sun, 10am-5pm. textiles, furniture and clocks. and over-65s: free. Public holidays, 10am-2pm. Graphic design: from trade to Permanent exhibition Located in Closed Mon (except public profession Permanent exhibition. space that once housed part of the Calcio Storico. When honour is holidays). €4.40. Reduced: €3.10. Tracing the professionalisation of Palau Reial Major, its collection as stake Until Apr 26. Similar to graphic design. includes a range of valuable football, Calcio was an Italian sport Permanent exhibition Murals under
52 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com The Arts the magnifying glass – paintings public holidays from 5pm Fri from 5pm. Sat & Sun from 4pm. Tel. 93 485 99 00. www. from the Sant Miquel Chapel. El curiós incident del gos a Polònia, the musical Until Apr 30. NKEGWDCTEGNQPCECV6KEMGVQHƁEGU mitjanit Apr 9-May 10. Wed-Sun Wed & Thu, 8.30pm; Fri, 9.30pm; Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8pm. Sat, Sun 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. €23.20-€26. Sat, 6pm & 9pm. Sun, 6pm. €15- 9.30am-6pm. Stage play based on Mark €39. Musical version of satirical Theatre Haddon’s bestseller The Curious Catalan TV show, poking fun at Shen Yun Apr 24 8.30pm. Apr 25 Incident of the Dog in the Night- Spanish and Catalan politicians 4.30pm. €40-€120. Dance Time. In Catalan. and public Ɓgures. company gives a performance El Molino Frank V (Operata d’una banca covering 5,000 years of Chinese (Vilà i Vilà, 99). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). privada) Apr 16-May 17. Wed-Fri Teatre Tívoli history. Tel. 93 396 71 91. www. 8.30pm; Sat 9pm; Sun 6pm. €15- (Casp, 8). M: Catalunya (L1, L3). Pg. GNOQNKPQDEPEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU €29. Catalan-language musical. de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). T. 902 888 Mercat de les Flors Thur-Sat, 5-9pm. Tickets available 788. www.sisteractelmusical.com. (Lleida, 59). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. via Ticketea, Atrapalo, Telentrada, Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc Ticketmaster, Atrapalo, Grup Balanyà 93 329 91 89. www.mercatflors. 'PVTCFCUEQOCPFVKEMGVQHƁEGU (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). M: CPF6GCVTG6ÉXQNKoUQYPVKEMGVQHƁEGU cat. Ticket offices open one hour Espanya (L1, L3, FGC) & Poble Sec (on days with a programmed before performances start. El Molino Show-Time Wed 6.30pm. (L3). T. 93 289 27 70. www. performance, from 5pm). Thu 9.30pm. Fri 6.30pm. Sat 8pm. VGCVTGNNKWTGECV6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP Mryiam van Imschoot/Idola €33. Weekdays 9am-8pm (Plaça Margarida Sister Act, the Divine musical Zabaleta/Itziar Okariz Apr 8-9. Rumba Experience Tue-Thu Xurgú) and 3 hours before shows start Wed, Thu 8pm; Fri, Sat 5.30pm & 8.30pm.€12. Three-part 6.30pm. €22.50. Rumba as you’ve (Sala Fabià Puigserver). 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. Until May. €25- performance where different never seen it before, where €65. Comedy musical. In Spanish. sounds play an intricate part. audience participation is required. Mammón Apr 10-26. Wed-Fri 9pm; Pere Faura: Sin Baile No Hay Sat 6pm and 9.30pm; Sun 6.30pm. Teatre Victòria Paraíso. My Own Dance History Teatre Gaudí Barcelona €15-€29. In Catalan. (Av. Paral·lel, 65-67). M: Paral·lel (L2, Apr 10-12, 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). M: L3). T. 93 329 91 89. www. €20. Humourous take on Sagrada Família (L2, L5) & Sant Teatre Nacional de Catalunya VGCVTGXKVQTKCEQO$QQMQHƁEG 9GF choreography where Faura gives Pau/Dos de Maig (L5) T. 93 603 51 (Pl. de les Arts, 1). M: Glòries (L1). T. Fri, from 5pm. Sat, Sun, from 4pm his own take on four emblematic 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. 93 306 57 00. www.tnc.cat. Ticket until performance starts. dances, including ‘The Dying EQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGPQPGJQWT QHƁEGUQRGP9GF(TKRO 5CV Swan’ and Travolta’s moves in before performances start. 3-8.30pm; Sun 3-5pm. Mar i Cel Thu 8.30pm; Fri 9.30pm; Saturday Night Fever. Sat 5.30pm & 9.30pm; Sun 6pm. Aerowaves: Spring forward Mares i Filles Apr 9-Jun 14. Wed- Ganes d’Udolar Apr 9-12. Thu-Sat Until Apr 30. €29-€46. Dagoll Apr 17-19, 8pm; Sun 7pm. Sat 10pm. Sun 8pm. €20. Catalan 8pm; Sun 6pm. €12. Reduced €6. Dagomm’s popular musical, a story Aerowaves gives young musical. In Catalan. of corsairs and captives. In Catalan. European dance talent the El Viatge d’Orfeu Wed-Sat 8pm. Purga Apr 10-16, Thu-Sat 8pm; chance to perform in other Sun 6pm. In Catalan. Sun 6pm. €23. Reduced €11.50. countries – Spring forward is its In Catalan. annual get-together taking place Teatre Lliure: Gràcia Dance each time in a different city. (Montseny, 47). M: Fontana (L3) & Teatre Poliorama Evolucions/Dansa urbana. Joanic (L4). T. 93 238 76 25. www. (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1, Catalan and international hip VGCVTGNNKWTGEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGUQRGP L3). T. 93 317 75 99. www. Gran Teatre del Liceu hop Apr 23-May 3. Celebration of Mon-Fri 5-8pm. Weekends and VGCVTGRQNKQTCOCEQO6KEMGVQHƁEGU6WG (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). different urban dance acts.
TIME FOR A CLOSE-UP Barcelona photographers in black and white GABRIEL CASAS / ARXIU NACIONAL DE CATALUNYA GABRIEL CASAS / ARXIU NACIONAL COLECCIÓN TELEFÓNICA / HEREDEROS ARISSA 2014 COLECCIÓN TELEFÓNICA / HEREDEROS JORDI SOCÍAS STUDIO POMÉS / LEOPOLDO
THE SHADOW & THE FLASHBACK FOUND PHOTOGRAPHS PHOTOGRAPHY, INFORMATION PHOTOGRAPHER, 1922-1936 Retrospective of work from second Images by photojournalist Jordi Socías AND MODERNITY Over 160 images, including ‘Eternal fight half of 20th century, such as ‘Finestra such as this ‘Self-portrait with beast’ Work from the ’30s by Gabriel Casas, I’ (c. 1928, above), by Antoni Arissa, a Rodona 2’ (1959, above), by multi- (1984). His stylistic work, which covers an early proponent of the New Vision printer and adherent of the typophoto faceted creative, Leopold Pomés. the past 40 years, has clear cinematic movement. Shown is ‘Self-portrait’ style. CCCB. Until Apr 12 La Pedrera. Until Jul 12 influences. La Virreina. Until Apr 26 taken in 1931. MNAC. Apr 22-Aug 30
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 53 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Food & Drink @RicardMartn Who’s afraid of the big bad restaurant? Don’t Ɓght shy of Lateral: yes, it’s a mega-restaurant, but the key to its success is jaw-dropping value for money. By Ricard Martín
There’s nothing worse than everyone. The menu is pretending to be something impressively comprehensive, you’re not. When it comes to and militant meat-eaters can Ɓll bars, your heart sinks when their boots with carnivorous someone tells you you have to delicacies, such as the oxtail try a new place with these stew (€3.95) or a whole Burgos words: ‘it’s a total dive. With morcilla (black sausage) with designer tapas.’ So the most spicy green Padrón peppers welcome aspect of the recently (€7.30 – we advise sharing it). opened, king-sized Lateral is Those who prefer something that there’s no big swell. Or lighter will Ɓnd crunchy leaves rather, that when you put it to the and fresh vegetables, test, you Ɓnd it does exactly what gazpachos and ceviches (they you expect. must have the cheapest in the El Lateral, which opened at the city, at €6.95). Their star pincho end of 2014 on C/Consell de is the Spanish omelette: creamy Cent, just off Rambla de and perfectly done, with Catalunya – a jealously contested territory with plenty of high-end eating options – is the Ɓrst Barcelona venture for the We’re honest Lateral group, which boasts six successful outlets in Madrid. with suppliers It’s a giant space that recalls the and customers enormous and popular bistros of Paris, and it promises top- – people really quality racions (small portions) respond to that and pinchos (tapas on a stick) at affordable prices. And you know caramelised onion holding its what? They deliver. In fact, you own against the potatoes in a might say they specialise in ratio of almost 1:1 (€2.60). taking classics that are too They don’t have a set lunch often overpriced and poorly menu, per se. ‘The idea is that executed, and doing them people can put together a meal properly. For example: Jabugo from an extensive menu,’ says ham salad with tomatoes and Moraleda. The Lateral team mozzarella (€7.65), avocado have invested heavily to enable and salmon tartare (€4.70), people to eat cheaply: seared tuna (€4.40). €1,200,000 to convert a travel I sample the tomatoes, the agency into a palatial (and ham, the salmon and the tuna. attractive) eatery. They have a And they’re good! Mercedes staff of 30 working to serve food Moraleda, the group’s managing non-stop from noon until 2 in the director, says, ‘The key to being morning. So that’s your lunch, able to work with tight margins is afternoon snack, supper and that we’ve been in the business post-evening-out munchies for 17 years. And since we’re covered, then. honest with our suppliers and our customers, people have LATERAL really responded.’ Consell de Cent, 329 One of Lateral’s strengths is (Eixample Dret).
that there’s something for MARIA DIAS PHOTOGRAPHY: T. 93 348 79 94. P: €15-€17.
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Barcelona establishment has 20 crafts beers on tap, of which approximately half are guests Limited run and the rest their own – and that’s before you start in on the menu, which includes around 40 bottled craft beers. Conpalillos 2012 DO Empordà. ABV 13.5%. €23. Take your choice Our recommendation? Without Potent but fresh, well-balanced and a doubt, the Punk IPA (the India full of character, this is a Pale Ale that has transcended delightfully generous wine, the specialised world of craft delicate and delicious. Syrah, beers and practically become a Merlot, Cabernet Franc and standard), which represents Cabernet Sauvignon tint the glass around 50 percent of BrewDog’s with lilac highlights and a vivid, output. We also like the Dead bright hue. Ageing in French oak Pony Club, further proof of their casks for 14 months provides the talent for christening their toasted notes, a more brews, and probably the ideal voluptuous body and beer for those who think they greater depth in the don’t like beer. Smooth, light mouth. Mas Pesadita and fruity, it stands in stark is located in contrast to way-out concept Casavells, in the Baix beers like the Abstrakt 17, an Empordà on the experimental limited edition of Costa Brava, and it’s black beer infused with a triple a daring project, dose of coffee. with a minimal,
MARIA DIAS If you feel the need for a painstakingly nibble with your drink, don’t put-together, fear. Among their bar snacks, artisanal Godfathers of punk there’s the high-protein time production of bomb called the Special BDG: only 1,200 Scottish craft brewers BrewDog open a pub 200 grammes of beef, a fried bottles. in BCN, their Ɓ rst in Spain. By Laura Conde egg and bacon. They also have –Meritxell patatas bravas, croquettes, Falgueras Craft beer is the new G&T. Or brought a spate of new bars to ham and a range of beer- the new vermouth, the new Barcelona. The latest, which inspired tapas: from mini gourmet hamburger, the new opened earlier this year, is chorizos in beer to squid in a The English rock and roll, the new black. The Scottish brand BrewDog’s Ɓ rst lager batter. name of the wine fact is that people like me who pub in Spain. company is could once take or leave beer BrewDog have bars all over BREWDOG Objective Parker are suddenly experts on APAs, Europe, where you can taste Casanova, 69 (Esquerra de – aimed at critic IPAs, hops and all the their specialities or try one of l’Eixample). Robert Parker paraphernalia of home brewing. the guest beers, which are Mon-Thu noon-midnight; Fri & The craft beer boom has constantly rotated. The Sat noon-2am.
GOOD FOOD ON A BUDGET
DANIEL CAFÉ MOSQUITO TAVERNA BLAI TONIGHT EL KIOSKO Based in Chinese dumplings in myriad The Poble-sec street of Blai is a hub Brad Ainsworth, the chef who brought the Barcelona for forms are the speciality at this for quality cafés and bars – this one gourmet burger to Barcelona with his mini seven years, micro restaurant, but its tapas has won a special place in locals’ Bacoa chain, is also behind El Kiosko. It’s French chef comprise a grab bag from all hearts thanks to its cheap-but- along the same lines but more spacious and Daniel Brin opened over the continent. The crispy excellent montaditos (bread with comfortable, and open onto the street. Try this bistrot in 2014, duck is more than toothsome, and toppings such as quail any of the delicious recipes with special with the aim of serving good-value a steaming bowl of Vietnamese pho egg with ham, or fresh chutney sauce and home-cooked fries dishes from his home country. with noodles makes for a sturdy cheese and tomatoes, and you’ll see what we mean. It’s a Recommendations include the lunch on its own. Mosquito also has right) and other popular spot, so make sure you get homemade paté, quiche, cocotte and excellent beers, some of which are tapas, which start at there ahead of the lunch crowds. their slow-cooked meats. brewed just for the restaurant. €1. Blai, 23. T. 648 Marquès de l’Argentera, 1. T. 93 Diagonal, 177. T. 93 557 98 98 Carders, 46. T. 93 268 75 69 73 32 00 310 73 13
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La Xalada WHERE THE BAR FOOD IS FRESHEST Best places to eat in BCN’s markets
LES CORTS EL BISAURA A tip: here they make perhaps BCN’s best fried squid rings. Parada 8-12.
SANT ANTONI EL ELS ENCANTS BAR CASA PINOTXO (LA FOGÒ BLANCA BOQUERIA) IS Catalan cooking at Try fresh fish, full-on ALWAYS CROWDED, good prices and in just breakfasts, or a fab BUT IF YOU HAVE THE the right amounts. Run MARIA DIAS cheese and bacon PATIENCE TO WAIT, by Albert Marimon, centolla, crunchy stuck-to-the- (formatge i bacó) IT’S WORTH IT 2013 Chef of the Year. pan, flavour-packed rice with sandwich. Parada 54. Castillejos, 158. Parlament, 1 (Sant Antoni). spider crab and langoustines, T. 93 129 43 31. P: around €25 served with a mild allioli (garlic SANTA CATERINA mayo). Next time (because I’ll be Sooner or later, the city of back), I’ll order the baby octopus BAR JOAN Barcelona will have to erect a and cuttlefish with black olive The €11 set lunch menu monument to the Adrià family for pesto. Carnivores have great includes excellent local dishes. having revived Avinguda del options too, such as the pisa Parada 108. Paral·lel with their gastronomic morena, lamb with migas (a ventures. It’s as a result of this traditional dish of fried revival that restaurants like La breadcrumbs with garlic and Xalada have found a niche in Sant paprika) and mojo verde sauce, a Brie encounter Antoni – a district that’s gradually feast for all the senses. For getting its groove back after years pudding, I plump for the flam de on the sidelines. torró, a crème caramel with La Xalada is owned by Isabel nougat, served with orange Cruz, of Bar Mundial fame (a sponge cake. The dessert classic spot in the Ciutat Vella selection is interesting, although that Cruz owned until 2013), and a little too heavy for my taste. with a name derived from the I skip coffee and finish my wine, Catalan verb xalar – to let the house red, pleased I took the yourself go – it invites customers advice of everyone who to have fun, matching tapas with recommended La Xalada, a main course dishes. At La taperia and restaurant that Xalada, there’s something to suit reflects all the passion of Isabel all tastes, with all bases covered. Cruz and the talent of chef For my first course I order the Gabriel González. –Daniel Can you ever have too much of a who like their supper melted and Limenya salad, which turns out to Vázquez Sallés good thing? Say, a cheese bar with gooey, there are fondues and be a fantastic ceviche of corvina over 150 varieties to be tried? raclettes. And don’t despair if you and sea urchins, fresh and That’s a hell of a lot of Manchego, or someone in your party doesn’t powerful, with an unapologetic THE BILL Sbrinz and Burrata action. I have to like or can’t eat cheese – various flavour of coriander. For those admit, though, that as a major dairy options on the menu are available who prefer something less spicy, (For 1) fan I reckon that a cheese bar is far as ‘anti-queso’, which essentially there’s la russa, a version of the 1 Limenya salad ...... €8.50 and away the best idea for a translates as ‘cheese-free’. classic Spanish ensaladilla rusa 1 Mi centolla ...... €12.00 restaurant ever. At Poncelet, –Hannah Pennell (diced vegetables tossed in 1 Glass red wine ...... €3.00 opened by the eponymous Spanish mayonnaise and sometimes 1 Flam de torró ...... €6.00 cheese retailers late last year, you PONCELET CHEESE BAR BCN served with tuna or other can choose from the lengthy list of Hotel Meliá Barcelona Sarrià ingredients). Alternatively, try a TOTAL (with VAT) ...... €29.50 cheeses for a straight tasting Avinguda Sarrià, 50. dish from the list of appetisers experience, or go à la carte, T. 93 410 60 60 such as bunyols (deep-fried with starters, meat, Ɓ sh and dough balls) or, for the daring, the Time Out Barcelona Food & Drink rice dishes all created with at milupe, ‘almost traditional tripe’. critics review anonymously and least one cheesy For seconds I order the mi pay their own bills. ingredient. For those
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Andreu likes discretion. Boixet, explosive drama. I prefer Boixet’s vision because Andreu’s ingredients deserve it. Mussels pickled in sweet potato escabeche (a classic at La Pepita), and cockles with a ginger conƁ t and baby radish using products from Conservas de Cambados demand you pick up your fork and not stop. ‘Bar service, tapas and forks only,’ Boixet warned me by email. It’s a JOAN PUIG JOAN good slogan – a knife would be superƂ uous. The razor clams are a let-down – too tough – but not Thinking outside the tin the Bloody Mary sauce. Tinned vegetables by Pedro Luis: The owners of L a Pepita go back to basics with L a Cava: tinned artichokes with allioli (garlic delicacies and vermouth at the bar. By Pau Arenós mayonnaise), leeks with romesco sauce, white asparagus with Vermouth producers are rubbing with a rustic air that sets it apart parents were busy sipping tarragon mayonnaise their hands: a 19th-century from the ruling classes. Hipsters Coca-Cola Zero. (outstanding), and tomatoes with aperitif is suddenly the drink of adopted it as a viable drinking Sofía Boixet and chef Sergio smoked sardines, basil and the moment (see page 58), option and, at least in Barcelona, Andreu, owners of La Pepita, are fennel. There’s a miniature consumed with relish and this gave it visibility. Winemakers determined to reinvent the kitchen, from which emerge the conviction by bearded youth. Gin Casa Mariol and the bloggers- ordinary. At La Pepita they did it magniƁ cent sweet and sour still rules the roost in the city’s turned-bar owners and vermouth with the sandwich, and now vegetables, the Andalusian-style bars, but aromatised wines are producers Morro Fi may had a lot they’ve moved on to the national lightly battered squid with kimchi advancing with all the elegance to do with the revival. It passed tradition of serving tinned (round of applause) and the that beƁ ts a less alcoholic from grandparents to grown-up delicacies as a bar snack. ‘We dogƁ sh with lime mayonnaise. beverage. People take these grandchildren, while their wanted La Pepita to be a busy And the vermouth? They serve crazes with a pinch of salt, little bar, and it became Miró, one of my favourite brands. I associating them with vacuous something much bigger. So try three vermouth cocktails: a style magazines and sloppy WHAT ELSE? we’ve returned to our original Negroni, an Oliver (tonic, gin, red journalism. But that’s a mistake: intentions at La Cava.’ La Pepita vermouth) and a Benji (the same, these trends are intimately Look out for: has established itself among the with white vermouth). If anyone linked to what makes whole Sister bar La Pepita, found city’s top-end tapas bars, so with had passed me a football at this groups within society tick, even just along the street. La Cava the pair want to go back point, I’d have scored an own when the superƁ ciality sends Recommended for: to basics, to vermouth, beer and goal. Andreu is planning a your blood pressure soaring. We Those who can accept top-end tinned food: ‘Dressed and partnership with the companies need writers with skill and vision tinned food as legitimate served in our own style.’ that supply their raw materials. gastro fare. to explain the rise of the Designer-tapas-from-tins They have big plans for their cans. hamburger, the croquette and Stay away if: originated at the now world- the G&T. And vermouth. You hate eating standing up. renowned Quimet & Quimet, LA CAVA It’s a golden age for vermouth. taking us back to the prehistory Còrsega, 339 (Gràcia). A craftsmanlike, festive drink, of the city’s gastronomy. T. 93 348 39 09. P: €5-€20.
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The world’s Vermouth Take a break only vermouth museum is in Barcelona has fallen back in love with the vermouth hour. A drink, a the Catalan snack, a chat – what could be more civilised? By Montse Virgili town of Reus
CLASS IN A GLASS SIMPLY SIPHONED NU-APERITIFS MARIA DIAS MARIA DIAS BODEGUETA CAL PEP LA PLATA SENYOR VERMUT Open for 20 years on the corner of Sants Renowned locally for their delicious, freshly fried Open in 2013, this bar has around 40 different market, this tiny bar has fabulous fishy snacks: fish, they also serve Perucchi vermouth here, one types of vermouth that can be accompanied by sea snails, crab, razor clams... Canalejas, 12. of the oldest Catalan brands. Mercè, 28. simple but delicious tapas. Provença, 85. SCOTT CHASSEROT SCOTT BAR CALDERS LA TIETA BALIUS Sit on the terrace of this Sant Antoni bar Chickpeas with prawns, tasty potato omelette, Poblenou cocktail bar specialising in vermouth dedicated to writer Pere Calders and try a glass amazing olives – where to start? There’s no mixes, plus tapas made with organic and local of the Falset vermouth. Parlament, 25. secret here, just good food and drink. Blai, 1. products where possible. Pujades, 196. IVÁN MORENO IVÁN LA VERMUTERIA DEL TANO BAR MINGUS LOLITA One of BCN’s hidden bodegas with marble Compared to the nearby places serving plastic This crowded bar serves all kinds of edible tables, a lingering smell of long-gone cigars and tapas, Mingus is a star bar (try the meatballs). delights with its glasses of vermouth, including a classic vermouth experience. Bruniquer, 30. And there’s great beer on tap. Ataülf, 6. treats such as squid croquettes. Tamarit, 24.
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additives, at accessible prices. Catalan cuisine QUESTION OF DEGREES Princesa, 14. T. 93 319 98 81. M: Jaume I (L4) 7 portes The eponymous Seven Doors Casa Mariol open on to as many dining At the Casa Mariol Wine Bar, salons, all kitted out in elegant which is part of the bodega of the 19th-century décor. Long- same name, you’ll have the aproned waiters bring regional chance to get to know suau, which dishes, including a stewy Ɓsh is a version of a drink (a blend of zarzuela with half a lobster, a soda and coffee) that was different paella daily (shellƁsh, popular in the Ribera de l’Ebre for example, or rabbit and region decades ago. You can also snails), a wide array of fresh taste cask wines from the Ebre, seafood, and heavier dishes accompanied by a nice clotxa such as herbed black-bean (bread stuffed with herring, stew with pork sausage, and onions, tomatoes and garlic), and orujo sorbet to Ɓnish. then top it all off with delicious Reservations are available only cakes from Batea (a town also in for certain tables; otherwise, the Ebre). get there early. Rosselló, 442. Passatge Isabel II, 14. Basílico Gastrobar T. 93 436 76 28. T. 93 319 30 33. This former lounge bar has been reborn in the style of a M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) M: Barceloneta (L4) modern bodega. The menu (divided up by ‘cooking’ temperatures, from -18ºC up to 240ºC) features new spins Magatzem Escolà Agut It looks like a hoarder’s Barcelona has a wealth of on classic Catalan dishes and a selection of creative paradise of wine bottles, but eateries that have improved over tapas. Paral·lel, 142 (Sant Antoni). T. 93 423 73 76. the shop’s staff know exactly the years. Many are back on the where everything is. You’ll Ɓnd a map after having been forgotten, great variety of products, which and some have the added bonus nuts, cuttleƁsh with artichokes, have two standout dishes: the is the result of a company that of having modernised without and perhaps the Ɓnest capipota and the oxtail. really knows its business and going over the top, to catch up macaroni in Barcelona. Sant Rafael, 24. has spent more than half a with the demand for the quality Sant Elies, 22. T. 93 209 75 59. T. 93 441 30 14. century dedicated to wine products that their clients want. M: Sant Gervasi (FGC) M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) distribution. Watch out for their One such case is Agut. wine tasting and cocktail Gignàs, 16. T. 93 315 17 09. Restaurant Gaig events. M: Drassanes (L3), Jaume I (L4) It’s currently all the rage for Wine bars Comercial, 13. Barna’s top chefs to set up T. 93 167 26 55. Bar Velódromo more-affordable offshoots, and Bar Nostàlgic M: Barceloneta (L4) This classic serves quality dishes this one is under the guiding Although located in the from early morning until the wee hand of Carles Gaig. The chef’s fashionable Sant Antoni market Monvínic hours. With Jordi Vilà (one of the philosophy, as at Petit Comitè, area, this bar does not mimic This is one of the largest city’s masters in the kitchen) at is a return to grandmotherly the Nordic aesthetic of most information centres for wine not the helm, they produce an Catalan basics, and the new local establishments. They only in Europe but the world over. endless succession of dishes favourite dish here is the serve a good selection of It’s also a wine bar and and tapas that will teach you canelons – hearty, steaming wines, particularly from restaurant. The latter – which about Catalonia’s gastronomic tubes of pasta Ɓlled with Catalonia, plus they have good focuses on traditional cuisine heritage. The full menu is shredded beef and topped with beer on tap and an impressive with a creative touch – is available all day, so if you fancy a fragrant béchamel. The list of gins, malt whiskies and excellent, by the way. some Iberian ham at 7am or a various dining rooms manage special rums. Gin and tonics, Diputació, 249. croissant for a midnight snack, to be both modern and spritz... they make it all, T. 93 272 61 87. just say so. wonderfully comfortable. including tapas to please even M: Universitat (L1,L2) Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 60 22. Còrsega, 200. the most sybaritic palates. M: Hospital Clínic (L5) T. 93 453 20 20. Viladomat, 38. M: Sant Antoni (L2) M: Hospital Clínic (L5) Seafood Freixa Tradició Can Cisa/Bar Brutal The return of Josep Maria Freixa Casa Lepoldo This restored neighbourhood Els pescadors to his family home, now that Rosa Gil, the heart and soul of bar combines a classic bodega Josep Maulini and his wife have Ramón has gone off to enjoy this lovely eatery, has carried at the entrance with a wine bar turned this into a lovely spot, fame in Madrid, has resulted out a veritable revolution here, at the back. They stock 300 combining antique furniture with in an authentic festival of and with excellent results. The wines, all from organic or bio- modern décor, and retaining its traditional cuisine: pig’s cuisine has improved – which is dynamic producers around the air of a small-town bar. One trotters with prunes and pine really saying something. They world, without chemicals or delicious recommendation:
60 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Food & Drink grilled sardines in sauce, though Piazze d’Italia they don’t always have them. Rice A temple of southern Italian SE Asian dishes are a staple on the menu, cuisine with an innovative and and never disappoint. provocative twist. The pizza Bangkok Cafè Plaça Prim, 1. chef makes the dough spin and Squeezed into a matchbox-sized T. 93 225 20 18. M: Poblenou (L4) dance above his Ɓngertips space, this tiny Thai restaurant before transforming it into an serves delicious curries with a Rías de Galicia outstanding crust. Dare to try genuinely Ɓery kick – and cool This restaurant is the setting for their sweet Nutella pizza, which Thai beers to quench the Ƃames. the Iglesias family’s wonderful is completely over the top, but With its few tables and high level relationship with the Ɓnest not to be missed. of success, make sure you seafood. The menu includes Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 59 77. reserve (way) in advance. Cantabrian lobster with garlic, M: Rocafort (L1) Evarist Arnús, 65. John Dory and txangurro crab T. 93 339 32 69. cannelloni. And when it’s M: Plaça del Centre (L3) in season, they have the Don’t go Tapas exquisite Bordeaux hungry. Book Batik lamprey. restaurants at Bar del Pla A simple, unpretentious Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. timeout.com/ Positioned restaurant with lovely décor and M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC) barcelona somewhere between a wide selection of Indonesian, a French bistro and a Thai and Malaysian dishes. Try Tabarca Langosta’s Club tapas bar, the Bar del the €14 sampling menu and Tino Martínez, sailor and chef Pla serves tapas and small take a gastronomic tour. extraordinaire, has opened an plates (divine pig’s trotters with València, 454. unusual restaurant in foie, superb pa amb tomàquet). T. 93 231 60 15. Barcelona specialising in Drinks include Mahou on tap (a M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5) lobster: he has recovered the Ɓne beer, often ignored here recipes of the lobster Ɓshermen because it’s from Madrid), plus El Petit Bangkok from the island of Tabarca, and some good wines by the glass. Authentic Thai specialities he does so with a menu that Montcada, 2. include nem sausages and a includes lobster and rice T. 93 268 30 03. range of curries and wok cooked in the lobster stock. M: Jaume I (L4) dishes. Serious connoisseurs Comte Borrell, 160. T. 661 074 of Thai food consider this one of 704. M: Universitat (L1,L2) El Jabalí the best restaurants in the city. This deli bar, which is Vallirana, 26. T. 616 185 196. reminiscent of Paral·lel in its M: Padua (FGC) Pizza heyday, is a great place to eat wonderful tapas – try the Gado Gado La Bella Napoli patatas bravas, the chicken In the Gothic quarter, the long- There can be few Barcelona salad and the cured sausage – established Betawi is a popular residents who haven’t tried the while sipping on good wine. It’s choice for Indonesian food, with wonderful pizzas served in this also a nice place to sit on the fresh spices and dishes that place with an authentic Italian terrace and do some serious balance sweetness and heat. atmosphere, with noisy, people watching. Their other restaurant, in cheerful waiters. Book a table if Ronda Sant Pau, 15. Gràcia, also serves Thai you’re going at the weekend. T. 93 441 10 82. specialities. Try the eponymous Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) gado gado salad, with a rich M: Paral·lel (L2,L3) peanut sauce, or bakmi goreng, Tapas 24 traditional stir-fried noodles La Bricciola Another nu-trad tapas bar with egg and vegetables, or A real Italian trattoria with good focusing on quality produce. their delicious curries. pizzas and fantastic pasta. Among the oxtail stews, fried Or, 21. T. 93 179 85 58. Features a good wine list and prawns and cod croquettes, M: Joanic (L4) some great Italian grappa. however, fans of chef Carles Olzinelles, 19. T. 93 432 19 33. Abellan will also Ɓnd playful Mé M: Mercat Nou (L1) snacks more in keeping with Delicious Vietnamese and Thai his signature style. The McFoie specialities fused with other Murivecchi Burger is an exercise in fast- world cuisines, as in their This restaurant-trattoria is a food heaven, as is the bikini, a mackerel ceviche with daikon direct relative of Un Posto al Sol small version of his take on the radish and sprouts. Fantastic on C/Urgell, and they both make ham and cheese toastie. beef tartare with sweet basil and really good pizzas. Diputació, 269. matchstick fries. Princesa, 59. T. 93 315 22 97. T. 93 488 09 77. París, 162. T. 93 419 49 33. M: Jaume I (L4) M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2,L3,L4) M: Diagonal (L3,L5), Provença (FGC)
Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com 61 Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected] Clubs @RicardMartn Back on the decks MORE MUSICAL GUESTS Northern Irish indie-rockers Two Door Cinema Club exchange their live show for a DJ session at Razzmatazz. By Javier Blánquez
KATE BOY Austrialian singer Kate Akhurst teams up with Swedish duo Markus Dextegen and Hampus Nordgren Hemlin of Rocket Boy for this electro-pop project. Razzmatazz. Sat 4, 1am
TWO DOOR CINEMA CLUB TWO GODFLESH A few years back, you could hardly completely. And when one appears looking to get a balance between The British duo visit Barcelona move for indie-pop groups DJing in on the bill, as this month at partying and creating a didactic once more, promoting new LP A clubs. It was the height of the indie- Razzmatazz with Northern Irish experience – recent and classic World Lit Only by Fire. It’s only dance era, when bands such as group Two Door Cinema Club, there hits, with a contagious rhythm and their eighth full-length album Hot Chip, LCD Soundsytem and is a strikingly stimulating sense of melody if necessary, ranging from despite a 26-year career. La [2] Franz Ferdinand were revelling in nostalgia. The band is presumably disco to R&B. We’re talking Bonobo de Apolo. Mon 20, 8.30pm critical and public success, in the process of producing a new and Trentemøller, Daft Punk and bringing a new wave of fun to the guitar-based bands such as Girl scene. Such was their popularity Names: intense, catchy, that they often performed a double entertaining and appealing for the session, starting with a concert of +HVJGFCPEGƂQQT group’s fans, more accustomed as their hits before heading to the DJ they are to the structure of a pop decks. It was an unorthodox is slow, their song than to the length and approach as the musicians rarely secret weapon is abstraction of techno. The group had the skill for proper mixing while have confessed more than once the tunes they selected tended to the R. Kelly hit, that, when the dance Ƃoor is slow, be simply the best-sellers of the ‘Ignition’ their secret weapon is the R. Kelly day. Still, they found their niche and hit ‘Ignition’, which will probably a public receptive to their efforts. disc, which would be their third ring out at Razz as a kind of end-of- KEN ISHII Latterly, the trend has slowed. after Tourist History (2010) and night prize. While you won’t hear The techno DJ has spent recent Clubs want a different kind of DJ – Beacon (2012). A DJ session thus the band’s own songs, you will get a weeks going back and forth either pure underground or house makes sense – it keeps them in the great night, with fun guaranteed. between Europe and his home stars with a commercial outlook – public eye without having to reveal country of Japan to perform, so and indie-rock bands just don’t do their new material. Bassist Kevin Two Door Cinema Club are at should be well warmed up for this it for them. But they haven’t gone Baird usually takes the reins, Razzmatazz on Apr 25 at 12.30am show. Razzmatazz. Fri 24, time tbc
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INHERITANCE TRACKS
James Holden Holden is a busy man. Currently in the throes of a European tour, he’ll jump into a series of UK dates at the end of the month. The British DJ is touring a live show that features drums and sax, where he revisits works from his album The Inheritors. Sala Apolo, Thursday 16, 8pm.
obsessive fans, all under the Sessions watchful eye of MC, US comedian and actor, Rachel Arieff. Nasty Mondays Sidecar Factory Club (details Tattoos, sweat and rock ’n’ roll: above). Thu 10pm. €8. Price the city’s wildest Monday night includes one drink. party. Miss it at your peril. Sala Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, Cupcake 113). M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). Mon Take a trip down memory lane midnight. €15 (on the door). €14 without forgetting to live in the (advance). moment, with hits from the ’70s right up to the present day. Raw Rebels Sala Apolo (details above). Thu Dance to the best beats of the 12.30am. €10 (on the door). €8 ’40s, ’50s and ’60s, with local (advance). Price includes one drink. and international DJs, in the heart of the city. The Bus Music Club Sidecar Factory Club (Plaça Reial, Session celebrating non- 7). M: Liceu (L3). Tue 12.30am. commercial, non-mainstream €5. Price includes one drink. and underground music. Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). Caníbal Sound M: Bogatell (L4). Thu midnight. System €15 (on the door). €13 (advance). Live acts, DJs and roots music Price includes one drink. make for an underground vibe at this long-running club night. Happy Techno Sala Apolo (details above). Wed The beat will get you at this 12.30am. €12 (on the door). €9 weekend party dedicated to new- (advance). Price includes one age and old-school dance music. drink. City Hall (Rbla Catalunya, 2-4). M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). Sat Anti-Karaoke 12.30am. €12-€18 (depends on This is the hard rock version of arrival time and if you sign up on karaoke, with dressing up and guest list). Price includes one drink.
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LA SUE BCN MELON PARTY Bloc Barcelona, Ronda de Sant Pere 19-21. www.facebook. com/GirliciouspartyBarcelona
LA MELON BCN Though its scheduling can be on the ad hoc side, La Melon has become a Ɓesta with a large following. First held in the summer of 2010, after trying out a variety of venues, it is now settled in at Sala Upload in Poble Espanyol, with a party every month or so (usually the Ɓrst Saturday). The organisers are committed to their cause: throwing a party for young lesbians just starting to go out and eager to have fun dancing GIRLICIOUS to commercial house music with a Spanish pop hit thrown in now and then. They also do theme nights from time to time, where everyone dons costumes. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13. M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC).
TARANTINA In January, this weekly party moved to a new venue on C/ Aribau, in the heart of the Eixample. Every Saturday, from 11pm, you can enjoy a lesbian cocktail party where the boys
LYDIA SANZ - MATINÉE GROUP SANZ - MATINÉE LYDIA IRENE FERNÁNDEZ are also welcome, as long as they’re accompanied by a girl or two. Drinks (especially their speciality, fresh fruit cocktails) Girls, get together and dancing are usually at the heart of the fun, although Looking to meet other women like you? Barcelona’s lesbian scene Tarantina also hosts occasional features bars, clubs and party nights. By Hannah Pennell cabaret nights, where they welcome entertainers such as LA SUE BCN and with special activities such each August, this is a slick illusionists and monologuists. Since its opening in August as fancy dress Carnival parties, dance club night that takes Whether or not it’s a show night, 2012, La Sue BCN has become this bar has lots going on place about every six weeks. when the dance Ƃoor is open, one of the places for women to throughout the year. Villarroel, Popular both with local women you can shake what you’ve got meet women. It’s a popular 60 (Eixample Esquerre). Tel. 93 and those from further aƁeld, till 3am. place for girls to meet for Barça 323 61 53. Thu-Sun from 7pm. the night features guest DJs, as Another well-known name in matches with a side of M: Urgell (L1). www.facebook. well as resident musicians such the local lesbian community, sandwiches, salads and tapas. com/lasue.bcn.3 as Matinée All Star Lydia Sanz Martha Arroyo, is in charge of If literature is more your leaning, (pictured), Lady Chus and the musical selection – each they also organise poetry GIRLICIOUS Vondoom, among others – week she plays a popular range recitals and monologues, as Organised by Matinée Group, sounds range from vocal of hits from the latest well as providing a comfortable, the people behind one of remixes to techno and house. commercial triumphs to rock, welcoming place to catch up Barcelona’s biggest LGBT This month’s event takes place R&B and rumba. with your reading. Art events, the huge Circuit on Saturday 4. Find all the info Aribau, 132. www.facebook. exhibitions are regularly held, summer party staged here you’ll need on Facebook. com/TarantinaParty
64 Buy tickets & book restaurants at www.timeout.com/barcelona & www.visitbarcelona.com Getaways Festival fever hits Around Catalonia this month you’ll Ɓnd festivals for children, history lovers and strawberry fans. By Nick Chapman
1 2
3 4 1. Hats off for kids’ theatre 2. Roman crafts in Badalona 3. Pulling the right strings in Mollet 4. Vallalta strawberries, ripe for picking
1. La Mostra d’Igualada 2. Magna Celebratio 2015 3. Mostra Internacional de 4. Jornades Gastronòmiques de Every year children’s theatre The modern city of Badalona was Titelles de Mollet del Vallès les Maduixes de la Vallalta companies from all over Catalonia known as Baetulo in Roman times, Puppets from all over the world Stretching up the coast from come to Igualada for a four-day and the town’s Magna Celebratio is converge on Mollet for the town’s Barcelona, the Maresme is festival that takes over the city’s Catalonia’s biggest salute to its annual puppet festival, organised famous for its market gardens, theatres and streets. Traditionally, Roman past. As well as talks and by the local troupe Galiot Teatre. and boasts over 50 gastronomic this is where productions for the presentations at the city’s There are open-air shows in the festivals a year. This month the upcoming season get their Ɓrst impressive archaeological town’s streets and squares – even region celebrates the Maduixa de airing, and the programme includes museum, there are historically in the market – and most of them la Vallalta, a unique variety of more than 50 shows for kids of all accurate reconstructions of are free. As well as performances, strawberry that is grown only in ages, representing every genre – Roman life. These include hands- there are all kinds of activities Ɓve local towns, and famous for from theatre, dance and puppet on demonstrations of dozens of aimed at families, including the its sweetness, intense red colour shows to magicians, clowns and crafts such as ironmongery, chance to handle different kinds of and perfect shape. Visitors can musicals – as well as performing bronze-working, glass-blowing and puppet, from glove puppets to taste them freshly picked, in arts workshops. pottery, and re-enactments, marionettes and shadow puppets, preserves or as part of mouth- lamostraigualada.cat; April 16-19 including an upper-class wedding, and to learn the techniques used to watering recipes. and training at the gladiator school. make them come to life. costadebarcelonamaresme.cat; magnacelebratio.cat; April 22-26 molletvalles.cat; April 3-5 Apr 25-May 31
www.barcelonaismuchmore.com
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Top Ten out and touch the Med, even 1 though it’s a fair distance away Carrer A and Muntaner doesn’t even In the industrial area of Zona Unusual stretch to the sea. Franca, between the seaport and airport, there are streets (carrers in Catalan, abbreviated to C/) streets 7 named A, B, C, D and Number 3, Carrer de les Mosques Number 4, etc. Clearly NYC has A strikingly narrow road close to nothing on the pragmatism of the Born and its former market, BCN. It’s probably worth the Street of the Flies was once mentioning that the streets that the place vegetable scraps were intersect with these ones do chucked, inevitably attracting the have more inventive monikers: scavenger insects. A local saying e.g. Passatge de Yucatán and C/ goes, ‘In the Street of the Flies, de la Mar Groga (Yellow Sea). the shadows are Ɓlled with movement,’ because it was used 2 by prostitutes plying their trade. Carrer del Panorama Found high above the city, this 8 street could scarcely have a Escalating better name. Although the In Barcelona there are 55 nearby C/Gran Vista (Great streets with escalators, View) gives it a good go. Set according to a Council report, among the hills of Barcelona, proving this is a city with from here the Catalan capital 2 inclining issues. Find them in
looks calm and unsullied. You MARIA DIAS the areas of Meridiana, might just want to stay up there. Montbau, Vallcarca, Carmel and Montjuïc. Locals love them, 3 especially when they work. Furnaces On the edge of Barcelona, close 9 to neighbour L’Hospitalet, Carrer Gran de Gràcia various streets have been given Gràcia’s Big Street now the names of elements from the seems to have a somewhat periodic table. C/Coure (Copper) outdated name, although it crosses Alumini (Aluminium), still dominates over many of connects to Bronze (same!) via the district’s tinier roads. But Platí (Platinum), and leads to it can hardly be compared to Urani (Uranium). the numerous ample streets in the adjacent Eixample. And 8 the same can be said of carrers 4 with similarly large monikers in Avda. Diagonal places such as Sarrià and Sant Often a cause of local could be Anisadeta in the Ribera Andreu, all once municipalities bemusement thanks to its area, which has just one number, separate from Barcelona – and length, geometry and parrot the aptly named C/Curt (Short) still proud of the fact. population, lately a new in Horta or C/Menor (Minor) in phenomenon has been Sarrià. witnessed on this avenue: its 10 bike lanes have been vanishing, Carrer dels Petons a result of recent extensive 6 No one is quite sure where roadworks to widen the Muntaner Street of the Kisses got its pavements on its lateral Just pipped at the post by name. Some say it was where sections. Cue mass confusion. C/Balmes for being the longest families bade farewell to loved vertical thoroughfare in the city, ones facing execution in the old the view from the very top of this Ciutadella fortress. But we 5 street, up by the park of prefer the notion that couples Name the shortest street Monterols, is both amazing and headed to its dark corners for This is a fun game for all the strange. On clear days, you get 4 some privacy. family to play. Which will win? It the feeling you could just reach By Ada Castells
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