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Mohair: a Review of Its Properties, Processing and Applications

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Mohair: a Review of Its Properties, Processing and Applications A review of its properties, processing and applications by L Hunter MOHAIR: A REVIEW OF ITS PROPERTIES, PROCESSING AND APPLICATIONS by L Hunter PhD CText FTI CSlR DIVISION OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY Copyright @ 1993 Division of Textile Technology All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storaae and retrieval svstani. without oermission in writina from the Additional copies of this book are available from the publisher and the International Mohair Association. Address all inquiries to: Division of Textile Technology PO BOX 1124 Port Elizabeth South Africa 6000 or International Mohair Association Mohair House OT 68 The Grove The Textile Institute llkley International Headquarters West Yorkshire 10 LS29 9PA Blackfriars Street England Manchester M3 5DR UK ISBN 0 7988 3717 9 Jointly published by. CSlR Oision of Textile Technofogy !ntema6oMI Mohair Associatim The Textile In?Litute Printed and bound in South Africa by NMB Printers (Pty) Ltd, Port Elizabeth CONTENTS Page 1.INTRODUCTION .............................................. 1 1.1 Preamble ............................................... 1 1.2 General Background Characteristics and Properties ........................................... 1 1.3 Historical Background..................................... 6 2. MOHAIR FIBRE GROWTH AND PRODUCTION ..................... 8 2.1 General ................................................. 8 2.2 Effect of Angora Goat Age ................................. 10 2.3 Effect of Nutrition and Season ............................. 12 2.4 Secondary and Primary Follicles ............................ 13 2.5 Weathering .............................................. 15 3. MOHAIR PRODUCTION IN VARIOUS COUNTRIES .................. 17 3.1 South Africa ............................................. 17 3.1.1 introduction ........................................ 17 3.1.2 Properties of Cape Mohair ........................... 18 3.2 United States of America .................................. 25 3.3 Turkey .................................................. 26 3.4 Australia ................................................ 26 3.5 Newzealand ............................................ 27 3.6 United Kingdom ......................................... 28 3.7 Argentina ............................................... 28 4.CASHGORA .................................................. 29 5. MOHAIR GREASE AND OTHER FLEECE CONSTITUENTS ............ 32 6. OBJECTlVE MEASUREMENT.................................... 38 6.1 General ................................................. 38 6.2 Sampling for Objective Measurement ....................... 40 7. FINENESS AND CROSS-SECTION RELATED PROPERTIES ........... 41 7.1 General ................................................. 41 7.2 Vibroscope Measurements of Mohair Fineness ............... 45 7.3 Fibre Cross-sectional Shape ............................... 45 7.4 Fineness Relationship of Grease Mohair. Card Sliver and Top ........................................... 45 8.STAPLE LENGTH AND STRENGTH ............................... 46 9. QUALITY AND RELATED CHARACTERISTICS ...................... 48 9.1 General ................................................. 48 9.2 Classing and Quality ...................................... 49 9.3 Style and Character....................................... 50 9.4 Grades ................................................. 52 9.5 Spinning Limits and Quality ............................... 54 10. FIBRE PHYSICAL AND RELATED PROPERTIES ..................... 57 10.1 Single Fibre Tensile Properties ............................. 57 10.2 Fibre Bundle Tenacity Properties ........................... 70 10.3 Fibre Bending Stiffness ................................... 71 10.4 Fibre Friction ............................................ 71 10.5 Moisture Related Properties................................ 72 10.6 Scale Pattern ............................................ 78 Page 10.7 Lustre .................................................. 81 10.8 General ................................................ 83 11. MEDULLATION AND KEMP ..................................... 88 11.1 Introduction .............................................. 88 11.2 Occurrence and Growth of Kemp and Medullated Fibres ........................................ 90 11.3 Physical and Mechanical Properties ......................... 93 11.4 Geometrical Properties .................................... 95 11.5 Chemical and Physical Nature of the Medulla................. 96 11.6 Dyeing Behaviour ........................................ 96 11.7 Measurement of Kemp and Medullation ..................... 99 11.7.1 General ........................................... 99 11.7.2 Medullameter Test .................................. 100 11.7.3 Coarse Edge ....................................... 103 11.7.4 Other Tests ........................................ 104 11.8 International Kemp Round Trials............................ 105 11.9 Ways of Reducing Kemp Levels and Appearance.............. 105 11.9.1 General ........................................... 105 11.9.2 Mechanical Removal of Kemp ........................ 106 12. FIBRE CHEMICAL. MORPHOLOGICAL AND RELATED STRUCTURE... AND PROPERTIES~ ~ ................................. 109 12.1 General ................................................. 109 12.2 Nature of Mohair Cortex .................................. 112 12.3 Ctystallinity ............................................. 116 12.4 Small (Low) AngleX-Ray and Related Studies of Mohair ........................................ 119 12.5 Thermal and Thermo-Analytical Studies ..................... 121 12.6 Amino-Acid Composition .................................. 124 12.7 Sulphur Content ......................................... 129 12.8 Certain Chemical Related Properties and Treatment Effects ........................................ 133 12.8.1 Sensitivityto Acids and Bases and Urea-Bisulphite and AlkalineSolubilities .............................. 133 12.8.2 Supercontraction ................................... 135 12.8.3 Resistance to Micro-Organisms ....................... 135 12.8.4 Birefringence ....................................... 135 12.8.5 General ........................................... 136 13. SCOURING AND CARBONlSlNG ................................. 138 13.1 Scouring. ................................................. 138 13.2 Carbonwng .............................................. 140 14. MECHANICAL PROCESSING INTO YARN ......................... 142 15.ARTIFICIAL CRIMPING ......................................... 160 16. CORONA TREATMENT ......................................... 161 17. FANCY (NOVELTY) YARNS ..................................... 163 18. REPCO-WRAPPED CORE-SPUN YARNS ........................... 1G7 19. DREF FRICTION SPINNING ..................................... 170 20 .YARN PROPERTIES ............................................ 171 20.1 General ................................................. 171 Page 20.2 Friction ................................................. 171 20.3 Bending Stiffness ........................................ 173 20.4 Diameter and Hairiness ................................... 174 21 .WEAVING AND WOVEN FABRIC PROPERTIES ..................... 179 21.1 General ................................................. 179 21.2 Woven Fabric Objective Measurement....................... 185 21.3 Wrinkle Recovely ........................................ 186 22 . KNlnNG AND KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES .................... 190 22.1 General ................................................. 190 22.2 Co.We-Nit ............................................... 195 23 . DYEING AND FINISHING ....................................... 196 23.1 General ................................................. 196 23.2 Light Degradation ........................................ 203 23.3 Felting and Shrink-Resistance .............................. 203 23.4 Flammability and Flame Retardant Treatments ............... 204 24 . FIBRE IDENTIFICATION AND BLEND ANALYSIS.................... 206 24.1 Introduction ............................................. 206 24.2 Microscopic Methods ..................................... 207 24.2.1 General ........................................... 207 24.2.2 Scale Length ....................................... 208 24.2.3 Scale Height (Thickness) ............................. 209 24.2.4 Multivariate Analysis ................................ 218 24.3 Image Analysis .......................................... 219 24.4 Fibre Friction Method ..................................... 220 24.5 Tensile "Modulus" ....................................... 221 24.6 Amino-Acid Analysis of Formic Acid Extracts ................. 221 24.7 Electrophoretical Techniques (Page)......................... 222 24.8 Internal and External Lipids ................................ 225 24.9 DNA Hybridisation ....................................... 227 24.10 General ................................................ 230 25 .THE INTERNATIONAL MOHAIR ASSOCIATION (IMA) ............... 231 26.MOHAlRMARK ............................................... 233 27 . MOHAIRLABS ................................................ 234 28 . MOHAIR APPLICATIONS AND END.USES ......................... 235 28.1 General ................................................. 235 28.2 Mohair Product List....................................... 242 29 .REVIEWS.
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