Identification Guidelines for Shahtoosh & Pashmina
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Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout
English by Alain Stout For the Textile Industry Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout Compiled and created by: Alain Stout in 2015 Official E-Book: 10-3-3016 Website: www.TakodaBrand.com Social Media: @TakodaBrand Location: Rotterdam, Holland Sources: www.wikipedia.com www.sensiseeds.nl Translated by: Microsoft Translator via http://www.bing.com/translator Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout Table of Contents For Word .............................................................................................................................. 5 Textile in General ................................................................................................................. 7 Manufacture ....................................................................................................................... 8 History ................................................................................................................................ 9 Raw materials .................................................................................................................... 9 Techniques ......................................................................................................................... 9 Applications ...................................................................................................................... 10 Textile trade in Netherlands and Belgium .................................................................... 11 Textile industry ................................................................................................................... -
Silk, Linen, Leather, Denim, Grass, Cotton, Felt
Silk, linen, leather, denim, grass, cotton, felt. Natural materials keep the integrity of their shape yet hold an impression of the figure that has worn them. Fit-out for Olivia Spencer Bower speaks to the fabrics and forms that we live in. An assortment of garment patterns, building plans and the lifestyles of art heroines provide templates or underlying structures for Emma Fitts’ installation at the Ilam School of Fine Arts gallery. Adopting the layout of a modernist home and featuring a series of fabric hangings and clothing cutouts, Fitts’ work acutely relates to our situated knowledge, the proportions of the body and our experience of space, while also implying much less measurable qualities. Alternative histories that reveal the social relationships and values of a bygone era are incorporated to form a homage of sorts, though these references are evoked to shed light on the present–what it means to live and make work as an artist today. The gallery is physically divided by four large textile works, hung from the ceiling according to the walls shown in architectural plans for 15A Leinster Avenue, Christchurch–the former home of artist Olivia Spencer Bower (1905- 82). These soft walls enable visitors to occupy the space as though wandering through her actual house: living room, kitchen, sunroom, bedroom and studio. Designed in 1969 by architects Cowey and McGregor in the Christchurch style of neo-brutalism, the house was commissioned to accommodate the needs of a female artist living alone. There is an emphasis on form developed in relation to function and it is both refined and compact, manifesting these ideals. -
A Research on Yarn and Fabric Characteristics of Acrylic/Wool/Angora Blends
(REFEREED RESEARCH) A RESEARCH ON YARN AND FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS OF ACRYLIC/WOOL/ANGORA BLENDS AKRİLİK/YÜN/ANGORA LİFİ KARIŞIMLARINDAN ÜRETİLEN İPLİK VE KUMAŞLARIN ÖZELLİKLERİ ÜZERİNE BİR ARAŞTIRMA Gamze SÜPÜREN MENGÜÇ * Ege University, Emel Akın Vocational Training School, 35100, Bornova-İzmir, Turkey Received: 05.01.2016 Accepted : 09.03.2016 ABSTRACT Acrylic fibers are one of the most commonly used synthetic fibers and due to its low thermal conductivity, good shape retention and durability properties, they have a large application area in knitted garment industry. Acrylic fibers are also used in blends to benefit from more prominent features of other fibers. Wool with having good wrinkle resistance, moisture absorption and warmth is a good blend material for acrylic. In order to get superior tactile properties, luxury animal fibers can also be used in acrylic blends, despite there are spinning difficulties and production limitations for these fibers. In this study, acrylic fiber and its blends with wool and Angora rabbit fiber were investigated for their yarn and fabric properties. According to the experimental results and the statistical analyses, it was concluded that, blending acrylic fiber with wool and Angora rabbit fiber, increases the CVm, thin/thick places and neps of the yarn. Yarns containing 100% acrylic and 70% acrylic/10% wool/20% angora have the highest tensile strength. In case of yarn friction coefficients, 70% acrylic /20% wool /10% angora containing yarn has the highest coefficient of yarn to pin and yarn to yarn friction values. However, 70% acrylic/30% angora and 100% acrylic yarns have lower values, supplying smoother yarn surface. -
Journal of American Science 2015;11(2)
Journal of American Science 2015;11(2) http://www.jofamericanscience.org Relationships among Physical, Chemical and Industrial Characteristics of Different Dromedary Camel's Hair Types Helal, A. Animal & Poultry Production Division, Desert Research Center, Egypt. [email protected] Abstract: Three hundred kg of raw camel-hair fibers (Magrabi camels) were collected during shearing season from Camel Research Station located in Matroh Governorate. The amount of camel-hair was subjectively classified into four categories control (C1, has no classification), coarse brown fibers (C2), coarser with white fibers liken to wool kemp fiber (C3) and fine fibers (C4). Results indicate that fine camel hair contains higher amount of B, Cd, Co, Cr, Fe, Mn, Ni and S compared with coarse fibers, while coarse fibers had higher Mo, Pb and Zn than fine fibers. Coarse fibers had the highest values of amino acids (THR, SER, GLU, GLY, ALA, VAL, MET, ILE, LEU, TYR, PHE, HIS, LYS, ARG and PRO). Sulfur content of camel hair takes an opposite trend of both MET and CYS with FD, SDFD, B-force, CV of B-force, CV of tenacity, yarn metric count, Twists/meter, twist multipliers and abrasion. Copper, which involved in forming pigments found to be higher in brown coarse categories C1 and C2. Hair bundle elongation reached the maximum in C4 (34.4%), while the lowest percentage found in C3 (4.6%). Category (4) had higher twist multipliers 2.4, 2.5 and 2.6 times those of C3, C2 and C1, respectively. Fine fibers selecting subjectively from the camel-hair fleeces had a good quality as raw material and yarn. -
Pashmina Shawls
Pashmina Shawls March 27, 2021 About Pashmina Shawls In 2019, the Bureau of India Standards (BIS) published an Indian standard for identification, marking and labelling the Pashmina Shawls for its purity. Pashmina Shawls are a fine variant of shawls spun from cashmere wools. A cashmere wool itself is obtained from the Changthangi goat native to the high plateau of Ladakh. Pashmina Shawls status symbol not just for the wealthy in Indian but even across the world, known for its soft features, The shawl made up of pashmina wool was promoted as an alternative to Shahtoosh shawl. Shahtoosh Shawls is made from the Tibetan Antelope. Due to demand for Shahtoosh, the shawl had wiped out 90% of the Tibetan Antelope. To preserve what population is left, other alternatives, like the pashmina shawl, are being considered. History of Pashmina Shawls Pashmina shawls gained much prominence in the days of the Mughal Empire as objects of rank and nobility. Babur first established the practice of giving khilat – giving ‘robes of honour’ – in 1526 to members of his court for their devoted service, high achievements or as a mark of royal favour, made of Pashmina wool. Upon the complete conquest of Kashmir in 1568 by Akbar, a pair of pashmina shawls were an integral part of a khilat ceremony. Pashmina Pashmina is a fine type of cashmere wool. The wool comes from a number of different breeds of the cashmere goat; such as the changthangi or Kashmir pashmina goat from the Changthang Plateau in Tibet and part of the Ladakh region and few parts of Himachal Pradesh. -
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area Cggk"0F{ ;+/If0f If]Qsf :Tgwf/L Jgohgt' Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area - 2019
Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area cGgk"0f{ ;+/If0f If]qsf :tgwf/L jGohGt' Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area - 2019 ISBN 978-9937-8522-8-9978-9937-8522-8-9 9 789937 852289 National Trust for Nature Conservation Annapurna Conservation Area Project Khumaltar, Lalitpur, Nepal Hariyo Kharka, Pokhara, Kaski, Nepal National Trust for Nature Conservation P.O. Box: 3712, Kathmandu, Nepal P.O. Box: 183, Kaski, Nepal Tel: +977-1-5526571, 5526573, Fax: +977-1-5526570 Tel: +977-61-431102, 430802, Fax: +977-61-431203 Annapurna Conservation Area Project Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Website: www.ntnc.org.np Website: www.ntnc.org.np 2019 Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area cGgk"0f{ ;+/If0f If]qsf :tgwf/L jGohGt' National Trust for Nature Conservation Annapurna Conservation Area Project 2019 Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area cGgk"0f{ ;+/If0f If]qsf :tgwf/L jGohGt' Published by © NTNC-ACAP, 2019 All rights reserved Any reproduction in full or in part must mention the title and credit NTNC-ACAP. Reviewers Prof. Karan Bahadur Shah (Himalayan Nature), Dr. Naresh Subedi (NTNC, Khumaltar), Dr. Will Duckworth (IUCN) and Yadav Ghimirey (Friends of Nature, Nepal). Compilers Rishi Baral, Ashok Subedi and Shailendra Kumar Yadav Suggested Citation Baral R., Subedi A. & Yadav S.K. (Compilers), 2019. Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area. National Trust for Nature Conservation, Annapurna Conservation Area Project, Pokhara, Nepal. First Edition : 700 Copies ISBN : 978-9937-8522-8-9 Front Cover : Yellow-bellied Weasel (Mustela kathiah), back cover: Orange- bellied Himalayan Squirrel (Dremomys lokriah). -
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Inheritance of Down Hair and Live Weight Traits for Inner Mongolia Cashmere Goats in China
7th World Congress on Genetics Applied to Livestock Production, August 19-23, 2002, Montpellier, France INHERITANCE OF DOWN HAIR AND LIVE WEIGHT TRAITS FOR INNER MONGOLIA CASHMERE GOATS IN CHINA H. Zhou1 and D. Allain2 1 The College of Biotechnology, Inner Mongolia Agricultural University, Hohhot 010018, China 2 INRA, Station d’Amélioration Génétique des Animaux, Castanet Tolosan 31326, France INTRODUCTION China is the largest producer and exporter of cashmere in the world. And Inner Mongolia cashmere goats, a large population of 13 million individuals, are the country’s most important contributors to the cashmere production, and economic earners, which provides approximately 30% of the world’s cashmere. The further enhancement of the fibre quality is necessary for the competition in the world market. Therefore, better control of the quality is of importance for cashmere production to satisfy the consumer’s requirements for a consistently desirable product. Knowledge of the extent of genetic variability is a prerequisite for the genetic improvement of the primary traits. Some genetic parameters and genetic correlation or phenotypic correlation amongst particular traits in some breeds of cashmere goat have been estimated (Patties et al., 1989 ; Baker et al., 1991 ; Rose et al., 1992 ; Bigham et al., 1993 ; Ning et al., 1995). However, there is little scientific literature available on the genetic background of main production traits in Inner Mongolia cashmere goat, which requires an analysis on variance component estimates and accurate genetic parameter evaluation under animal models in characteristics for the seed-stock selection and progress of genetic improvement in Inner Mongolia cashmere goats. MATERIALS AND METHODS Data and animals. -
Cuticle and Cortical Cell Morphology of Alpaca and Other Rare Animal Fibres
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Repositorio Institucional Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Chota The Journal of The Textile Institute ISSN: 0040-5000 (Print) 1754-2340 (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/tjti20 Cuticle and cortical cell morphology of alpaca and other rare animal fibres B. A. McGregor & E. C. Quispe Peña To cite this article: B. A. McGregor & E. C. Quispe Peña (2017): Cuticle and cortical cell morphology of alpaca and other rare animal fibres, The Journal of The Textile Institute, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2017.1368112 To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2017.1368112 Published online: 18 Sep 2017. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 7 View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=tjti20 Download by: [181.64.24.124] Date: 25 September 2017, At: 13:39 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE, 2017 https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2017.1368112 Cuticle and cortical cell morphology of alpaca and other rare animal fibres B. A. McGregora and E. C. Quispe Peñab aInstitute for Frontier Materials, Deakin University, Geelong, Australia; bNational University Autonoma de Chota, Chota, Peru ABSTRACT ARTICLE HISTORY The null hypothesis of the experiments reported is that the cuticle and cortical morphology of rare Received 6 March 2017 animal fibres are similar. The investigation also examined if the productivity and age of alpacas were Accepted 11 August 2017 associated with cuticle morphology and if seasonal nutritional conditions were related to cuticle scale KEYWORDS frequency. -
Pioneering Textile Fibers Ruth Herzig Iowa State College
Volume 23 Article 6 Number 1 The Iowa Homemaker vol.23, no.1 1943 Pioneering Textile Fibers Ruth Herzig Iowa State College Follow this and additional works at: http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/homemaker Part of the Home Economics Commons Recommended Citation Herzig, Ruth (1943) "Pioneering Textile Fibers," The Iowa Homemaker: Vol. 23 : No. 1 , Article 6. Available at: http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/homemaker/vol23/iss1/6 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Publications at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in The oI wa Homemaker by an authorized editor of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. This new feather light fiber 1·eplaces war mataia/s, lwjJOk and sjJOnge rubber Succeeding PTioTity mateTials aTe new textiles silient and stain resistant. Velon has already been produced in fabrics for draperies and upholstery and made fmm synthetic pmducts, says Ruth Herzig present plans, provided the chemicals can be obtained, call for production of these fabrics with natural elas ~OYBEAN, peanut or milkweed fibers, nylon fleece, ticity to make girdles and other undergarments for UJ fiber D, luminescent fabrics, velon and aralac are women. the fibers voted most likely to succeed priority mate Research workers in Henry Ford's laboratories at rials such as wool and nylon. Fort Dearborn have discovered how to spin textile Nylon fleece is the first new nylon fabric to appear fabrics from soybeans. These fabrics, which resemble on the market since war demands required the entire wool in texture and consistency, are combined with production for military needs.