TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 543

Index

AATCC (American Association of Textile Airpro, 478 Chemists and Colorists), 217 Akovali, G and Takrouri, F, 250 rain test, 296–7, 298 Akzo, 9, 30 abaca, 378 Akzo Nobel, 293 plant/fibre, generalised description, 383 Albany (US), 13 abrasion resistance, of fabrics used in Albright and Wilson, 165 transportation, 494 Alcantara, 511 accident survival, 463–5 alginate fibres, 37 acid dyes, 192–3 alginates, 411–12 Acrilan, 28 Allied Colloids, 28 acrylic fibres, 28 Allied Signal, 39, 240 dyeing, 194 Altex (Sumimoto, Japan), 229 flame-retardant additives, 242–3 aluminium oxide (or alumina) fibres, 32 gel dyeing, 203 aluminosilicate compounds, 32 acrylic polymers, LOI-char relationship with American Society for Testing Materials, 130 various flame-retardants, 244, 245 Amgard, 248 adhesive bonding, 145 Amijima, S et al., 271, 278 adhesives, in fusible interlinings, 184–5 ammonium polyphosphate (APP), 248 aerodynamic fabric transport systems, 214 Amoco Fabrics and Fibres Co., 232 aeronautics, 36–7 amorphous regions, in fibre structures, 163 aerosol protection performance, 486 Anand, S C, 113, 114, 128 Agarwal, B D and Broutman, L J, 268 Anand, S C and Garvey, S J, 236 agricultural engineering, 34–6 Anand, S C, Lawton, P J, Barlow, G and agriculture, 14–15 Hardman, E, 356 protective clothing, 484–7 anhydrous liquid ammonia treatments, air jet, weft insertion by, 91 cotton, 206–7 air jet weaving machines, 91–2 anthraquinones, in coloration, 190 air laying antifungal finishes, 171–2 batt production in nonwovens, 134–6 antimicrobial finishes, 171–2 diagram of air lay machine, 135 in car interiors, 514 air pollution, 534 antimony (III) oxide, 167 air-jet , 51–2 antistatic finishes, 169–71 aircraft antistatic properties of fabric, 323 fibre-reinforced composites, 520–21 Antron, 28 furnishing fabrics, 519–20 Antron P140 (DuPont), 519 technical fabrics, 521 Apyeil (Unitika), 230 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 544

544 Index

Aquatex, 435 using machines, 131–4 aramid fibres, 226 cross laying, 133–4 aramid filament , 57–8 parallel laying, 131–3 aramids, 8–9, 230 spun laying, 137–8 military use, 451 battery separators, 507 in protective clothing, 472 beam dyeing, 213–14 ‘architectural membrane’, 15 bearded needle, weft knitting machines, 98 Arctic bedcovers and pillows, ignitability tests, clothing, 432–4 254–5 conditions, 464, 467 Benisek, L, 251, 472, 480 area density, in knitted fabrics, 97 Bibo, G A and Hogg, P J, 274 aromatic fibres, melt-spinnable, 30 biodegradation, 376 aromatic polyamides, 29, 230 of medical textiles, 409 aromatic polymers, 30 of polymers, 36 aromaticity, in polymers and fibres, 229 biological and chemical warfare protection, artificial fibres 457–8 mass coloration, 200–204 biomimetics, 293 products for mass coloration and bath Bishop, S M and Curtis, P T, 271 dyeing, 202 bleach activators, in dyeing, 197 artificial leather and suede, in car interiors, bleaching, in conventional dyeing, 205 511–12 Blum, C, 532 asbestos, 32, 229 Bombyx Mori (silk moth), 25 Asgard, 233 Boniface, L et al., 271 ASTM (American Society for Testing and Borofos, 240 Materials), 217, 252 boron fibres, 32 D3659, 252 boron nitrides (BN), 32 atmospheric conditions, and water vapour Bradbury, A G W et al., 248 permeability, 306 braided polyester artificial ligaments, automatic or semiautomatic flat screen (flat 418–19 bed) printing, 216 braided reinforcement automatic stop motions, single phase analyses, 274 weaving machines, 93 of composites, 273–4 automotive industry see cars mechanical behaviour, 273–4 azoic colouring matters, 195 Braun, E et al., 254 bridging model, 272 backcoating formulations, for flame British Defence Clothing and Textile retardant fabric, 167–8 Agency, 293 bacteriostatics, 171 British Standards, for colour fastness, 217 Bajaj, P et al., 251 British Textile Technology Group manikin ballistic casualties, in general war, 452 test systems, RALPH, 257–8 ballistic protective materials, 38, 429, 452–7, bromine, 167 465 BS 476, 518, 522 fabric types and composition, 456 BS 1006, 505 levels of protection, 453–4 BS 2576, 405, 505 testing and evaluation, 456–7 BS 3119, 252, 520 textiles used, 454–6 BS 3356, 506 ballistic textile performance, comparison BS 3424, 505, 506, 507 against steel wire, 456 BS 4303, 505 Ballyclare Special Products, UK, 232 BS 4443, 505, 506, 507 bandages, 412, 413–15 BS 4736, 506 Barber-Colman Co., 74 BS 4768, 506 Barker, R H and Drews, M J, 246 BS 4790, 256 Barlow, G, 356 BS 4948, 506 BASF, 234 BS 4952, 506 basic dyes, 194–5 BS 5058, 506 Basofil, 234, 474–5 BS 5438, 252, 253 batt production BS 5636, 506 in melt blowing process, 139 BS 5690, 505 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 545

Index 545

BS 5811, 505 future of textile developments, 513–16 BS 5852, 167, 253, 254, 255, 518 interior design, 498–9 BS 5867, 238 new seat technology, 511 BS 6307, 256 other parts of the interior, 504, 507 BS 6524, 506 sales, worldwide, 491 BS 6538, 506 seat covers BS 6807, 253 composition, 501 BS 6853, 518 design, 498, 499 BS 6906 (parts 1–8), 405 fabric structure, 500–501 BS 7157, 254 fabrics, 490–91 BS 7175, 254 summary of test methods, 505–7 BS 7176, Hazard Classifications and manufacturing process, 501–4 Ignitability Performance quality control and testing, 503–4 Requirements, 255 resistance to light, 499–500 BS 7209, 302, 306, 309 three-dimensional, 510 BS EN 22313, 506 types, 500 BS EN ISO 9237, 506 seat layout, 514–15 BSI, 252 seatbelts, 508 Bundesmann rain tester, 294, 295 textiles in, 497–516 bunker gear, 479–80 upholstery, 493 buses and coaches, use of textiles in, 517 cationic dyes, 194–5 butyl rubber, 177 Celanese, 232 Butylkina, N G et al., 240 Celguard, 435 BWF (Germany), 13 celluloid, 184 Byun, J-H and Chou, T-W, 274 cellulose, 27, 376 cellulose acetate, 184 CAD (computer aided design), 216 cellulose phosphorylation, 246 calcium alginate fibres, 409–10, 412 cellulosic fibres calender manufacturers, 157 dyeing, 196 calender rollers, and thermal bonding, 144 fabrics, 246–9 calendering scouring, 205 effects achieved by, 154 ceramic fibres, 10, 32, 229 and filtration, 330–31, 353–4 chasing, 156 in finishing processes, 152, 153–7 chemical and abrasion resistance of fibres, pad mangle, 153 322 types of calender, 154–6 chemical bonding types of finish, 156–7 in nonwoven production, 140–43 Caliban, 249, 250, 472 foam bonding, 142 Camino, G and Costa, L, 248 print bonding, 142–3 camouflage, 439–47 saturation bonding, 140–42 military textiles, 427, 428, 429–30 spray bonding, 143 near infrared camouflage, 444–5 chemical degradation, of polymers, 36 snow camouflage, 441 chemical hazards, 483–8 thermal infrared camouflage waveband, chemical processes 446–7 durable flame-retardant treatments, 165–7 and ultraviolet waveband, 439–40 in finishing, 153, 164–72 and visible waveband, 440–43 chemical resistance, and geotextiles, 370 Canadian Turl Dish method, 300 chemical treatments, and filtration, 331 carbon, military use, 458 China, 2, 18–19 carbon fibres, 9, 32, 497 chintz, 156 carbon filament yarns, 58–9 chitin, 38, 409, 410 carding machines, batt production using, chitosan, 38, 409, 410 131–4 chlorofibre, 234 cardiovascular implants, 419–20 chlorosulphonated polyethylene (hypalon), carpets, and flame retardants, 241 178 cars, 36–7 Chou, T W, 272, 274 airbags, 509, 514 chrome dyes, 194 and environmental issues, 515 chromophores, 189 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 546

546 Index

Ciba, 165 texts on, 265 cigarette ignition, 253, 254 composite moduli, for textile circular machines, weft knitting, 112–13 reinforcements, 269–70 CIRFS (Comité International de la composite reinforcement, basic mechanics, Rayonne et des Fibres 266–70 Synthetiques), 5 composites civil engineering, 24, 34–6 braided reinforcement, 273–4 geotextiles, 16–17, 358–71 fabricated from continuous undirectional natural fibre geotextiles, 372–406 fibres, 266, 268–9 Clevyl, 234 knitted reinforcement, 274–7 clothing components, 14 stitched fabrics, 277–9 clothing fabrics, thermal characteristics, 473 composites industry, 4 coated textiles, chemistry, 173–9 composition parameter (CP), 226, 228 coating compound needle, weft knitting machines, of technical textiles, 173–86 98 of waterproof breathable fabrics, 290–92 compressive shrinkage, in finishing coating techniques, 179–83 processes, 153, 159–61 gravure coating, 182 condensation, and waterproof breathable hot-melt coating, 183 fabrics, 310 knife coating, 180–82 Conex (Teijin), 30, 230, 445 lick roll, 179–80 construction, building and roofing, 15 rotary screen coating, 182–3 consumption transfer coating, 183 of technical textiles, 18–19 coir, 378, 405 by application, 11 plant/fibre, generalised description, 385 by product type, 10 Colback (Akzo), 507 worldwide, by region, 19 collagen, 38, 409 continuous dyeing machinery, 215 colorants, distribution of chemical class, 190 conventional dyeing coloration, 187–222 bleaching, 205 dye classes and pigments, 192–200 fluorescent brightening, 205–6 dyes, 188–9 heat setting, 207 fluorescent brightening agents, 189–90 mercerization, 206 objectives, 187–8 pretreatments, 204 pigments, 189 quality control in pretreatment, 207–8 range of colorants available, 190–92 scouring, 205 colour fastness, 195–6, 217–19 singeing, 204 degree of fade, 218 cotton, 25 performance, 218 anhydrous liquid ammonia treatments, quality standards, 217 206–7 tests, 218 dyeing, 195 to light, 218 in geotechnical engineering, 373 to rubbing, 218–19 mercerization, 206 colour fastness properties, and mass in protective clothing, 472 coloration, 202–3 retardant-finish formulations, 247 Colour Index International, 190 , 43 colour specification schemes, 208 in space suits, 478 Combat Soldier 95 layered system, 437, 438 course, in knitted fabrics, 95 combustion , 27, 28, 30, 37 as a feedback mechanism, 227 Courtek M (Courtaulds), 487 of fibres, 224 Courtelle, 28 schematic stability diagram, 225 Courtelle Neochrome process, 203 combustion products Credit Rain Simulation tester, 296, 297 of fibres, 495 creep physiological effects, 495 geotextiles, 365–6 composite materials, 264–5 natural fibre geotextiles, 394–5 market for, 265 crimp, 78–9 textile techniques under development for, Cripy 65, 33 267 cropping, in finishing processes, 152 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 547

Index 547

crystal growth, 29 double jersey fabric, 95 crystalline regions, in fibre structures, 163 double jersey machines, 102–5 Cyclone, 435 interlock machines, 103 needle layouts, 102 Dacron, 28, 419, 420 needle timing, 103 Danufil CS (Hoechst AG), 235 rib machines, 103 David Rigby Associates, 463 Dow Weave, 74 Day, M et al., 241, 249 drainage, and geotextiles, 367, 389–90 decomposition, in combustion, 226 Drake, G L and Reeves, W A, 246 defence Dransfield, K et al., 278 ballistic protective materials, 452–7 drawn fibre, 163 battlefield hazards, 429 Dref friction spinning technology, 474 biological and chemical warfare DREF-2, 234 protection, 457–8 Drews, M J and Barker, R H, 248 camouflage, 439–47 drowning, protection from, 463–5 economic considerations, 429 dry-laid processes, in nonwoven production, environmental protection, 430–32 136 flame-retardant textiles and heat DSM, Netherlands, 29 protective textiles, 448–52 DSP (dimensionally stable polyester), 497 incompatibilities in combat materials Du, G-W et al., 273, 274 systems, 427–30 Du, G-W and Ko, F, 277, 279 military combat clothing systems, 436–9 Duncan’s multiple range test, 485 thermal and water vapour resistance duplex weaves, and filtration, 348 data, 437–8, 438 DuPont, 9, 28, 29, 30, 51, 58, 150, 167, 200, military flame and heat threat, 448–50 226 military uniforms, 426–7 Durvil, 473 non-clothing textile items, 426 dust collection, 317–25 requirements for military textiles, 428–9 cleaning mechanisms, 318–20 textiles in, 425–60 cost, 324 history, 425–7 equipment considerations, 324 thermal insulation materials, 432 fabric design or selection, 320–25 insulation efficiency, 432–3 filter sleeve location arrangement, 325 thermoplastic melt hazard, 450–51 filtration requirements, 321, 323–4 underwear materials, 430–32 knitted fabrics, 328 water vapour permeable/waterproof needlefelts, 326–8 materials, 435–6 particle collection mechanisms, 317–18 Defence Clothing and Textiles Agency, 436 performance related tests, 356 definitions, of technical textiles, 2, 24 pulse jet cleaning, 319–20 degradation reverse air cleaning, 319 of pigments, 203 shake cleaning, 319 of textiles, 530–31 thermal and chemical conditions, 321 delustering, 156 woven fabrics, 326 ‘Denison smock’, 427 dye classes and pigments, 192–200 Descente, 33 dyeing desizing, conventional dyeing, 204–5 car seat covers, 501–2 Dewas system, 90 conventional dyeing of technical textiles, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), 300 204–8 digital jet printing machines, 217 and the environment, 539 dimensional stability treatments, for dyeing machinery, 211–15 filtration fabrics, 352 batch dyeing machinery for exhaust DIN 4102, 522 dyeing, 211–14 DIN 53887, 355 beam dyeing, 213–14 DIN 53906, 520 continuous dyeing machinery, 215 direct dyes, 195–6 jig dyeing, 212–13 discharge printing, 215 pad-batch dyeing, 214 disperse dyes, 198–200 pressurised machines, 214 Disperse Red 127, 250 softflow jet dyeing machine, 214 dobbies, 84–5 winch (or back) dyeing, 213 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 548

548 Index

dyes, 188–9 European Standards, for colour fastness, acid dyes, 192–3 217 azoic colouring matters, 195 exhaust dyeing machinery, 211–14 basic dyes, 194–5 explosive ordnance disposal clothing, 455 direct dyes, 195–6 extinction oxygen index (EOI), 229 disperse dyes, 198–200 extracorporeal devices, 412, 415 major classes and fibres to which they are extreme weather conditions, survival, 467–9 applied, 191 for mass coloration, 200–201 fabric area density, 78 mordant dyes, 194 fabric geometry, 77–80 for near infrared camouflage, 445–6 of plain single jersey, 108 reactive dyes, 196–7 fabric geometry studies, practical sulphur dyes, 197–8 implications, 108–9 vat dyes, 198 fabric printing machinery, 216–17 Dyneema, 29, 39, 59, 455, 465 fabric relaxation, 160 fabric specifications and geometry, 77–80 EATP (European Polyolefin Textiles cover factors, 79–80 Association), 5 crimp, 78–9 ecological protection textiles, 18 fabric area density, 78 Ecomangement and Audit System (EMAS), fabric width, 78 532 thickness, 80 economic scope, of technical textiles, 1 fading, 218 El-Alfy, E A et al., 249 Faroq, A A, 248 elastane fibres, 29 feed devices, weft knitting, 110, 111, 112 electrolyte, in dyeing, 195 Fenilon (Russian), 230 elemental composition, correlation with fibre blends, in protective clothing, 472–5 oxygen index, 228 fibre glass, 9 Elitex air jet weaving machine, schematic fibre structure, heat setting, 162 section, 81 fibre undulation model, 272 Ellettes (Teijin), 435 fibre yielding plants, 376–7 embossing, 156 fibre/plastic composites, in transportation, EN366:1993, 256, 257 496–7 EN367:1993, 256, 257 fibres EN469:1995, 256 end-users, 26 EN470–1, 257 mechanical properties, 26 EN531:1995, 257 stress/strain behaviour, 29 EN532:1993, 256, 257 thermal behaviour, 224–9 EN533:1997, 257 thermal and flame-retardant properties, EN 31092, 302 228 end-users, of fibres, 26 fibrillated tape (‘splitfilm’) yarns, and end-uses filtration, 344–5 of technical textiles, 20–22 fibrillation, 138, 139 of warp-knitted fabric, 128 Fidion FR, 167 of weft-knitted fabrics, 110–13 filament technical yarns, 57–60 energy consumption, 533 filament yarns, 55–60 engineered fabrics, in cars, 514 comparison of properties, 60 engineering properties, of natural definitions, 55–6 geotextiles, 391–2 manufacture, 56–7 Entrant, 435 melt spinning process, 56 environment, and textiles, 529–42 texturing methods, 57 environmental harm filtration from textile sources, 532 by textile filter, 316–57 reduction, 538–9 and duplex weaves, 348 environmental issues, and cars, 515 and fibrillated tape (‘splitfilm’) yarns, environmental protection, in defence 344–5 textiles, 430–32 and finishing treatments, 328–33 erosion control, and geotextiles, 391, 392 and geotextiles, 390–91 European Committee for Standardization, geotextiles, 367 256 and link fabrics, 348–50 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 549

Index 549

and monofilaments, 341–2 flame protection and multifilaments, 342–4 inherently flame retardant fibres, 229–34 and needlefelts, 350–51 and military textiles, 428 and plain weave, 347 selection of suitable fibres, 229–46 production equipment, 351 flame-retardance and satin weaves, 348 of conventional textile fibres, 234–46 and semiduplex weaves, 348 of materials, 226 solid-liquid separation, 333–41 flame-retardant and -fibre yarns, 345 acrylic fibres, 241–6 and twill weaves, 347 additives and yarn combinations, 346–7 acrylic fibres, 242–3 and yarn types, 341–7 for polyester fibres, 238 filtration equipment fabrics, 470 resistance to flex fatigue, 339–40 finishes resistance to stretch, 339 for polyester, 249–50 filtration fabrics for polyester/cellulosic blends, 250–51 and calendering, 353–4 for wool, 251–2 for dimensional stability treatments, 352 nylon, 240–41 for surface modification, 352–3 polyester, 237–40 test procedures, 355–7 chemical structure, 239 filtration properties patent literature, 240 geotextiles, 367–70 properties, of various fibres, 228 influence of yarn type, 341 test methods, 252–8 finishes, for heat and flame resistance, 478–9 vertical strip test, 253 finishing textiles, in miltary use, 448–52 car seat covers, 501–2 treatments chemical processes, 164–72 durable flame-retardant treatments, compressive shrinkage, 159–61 165–7 and the environment, 539 synthetic fibres with inherent flame heat setting, 161–4 retardant properties, 167–8 mechanical processes, 152–3 viscose, military use, 451 calendering, 152, 153–7 flame-retardants (name and manufacturer), chemical processes, 153 244 compressive shrinkage, 153 flameproof materials, 9 cropping, 153 flammability, 224 heat setting, 153 in aircraft, 519 raising, 153, 157 reduced flammability in transportation shearing, 159, 160 textiles, 491, 494, 496 of technical textiles, 152–72 flash spinning finishing treatments, and filtration, 328–33, bonding of flash spun material, 139 352–5 of nonwovens, 138–9 finite element method (FEM), 272 flat screen (flat bed) printing, 216 fire, protection from, 466 flax, 6, 376, 378 fire tests for upholsterers composites and plant/fibre general description, 379 mattresses, 253–4 Flectalon, 469 fire-fighting clothing, 479–83 flexible engineering materials, scope, 4–5 European fire fighters tunics, 483 flexible intermediate bulk containers, 517 evaluation, 256 flocked fibre, in cars, 508 fire-retardant finishes, 246–52 flotation vests, 464–5 fire-retardant (FR) viscose, 27 fluid jet weaving machines, 90–92 fire-retardants, 25 fluorescent brightening see also flame-retardants agents, 189–90 fireblocker materials, 496, 517 conventional dyeing, 205–6 in aircraft, 520 fluorocarbon, 169 Firesafe Products Corporation, 466 foam bonding, 142 Firotex, 233 footwear (military), vapour permeability, fishing, 14–15 438 flack jackets, 38 Fortafil, 230 flame bonding, in laminating, 186 Fortamid needle felt, 230 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 550

550 Index

Fortasil, 233 glass fibre fabrics, 252 Fostetrol, 240 glass fibres, 15, 229 FR viscose, 234–7 glass filament yarns, 58 Fraglight (DSM), 455 glass transition temperature, heat setting, Frank-Kamenetzky, D A, 225 163 Frey, F and Meyer, M, 539 glazing, 156 friction spinning, 48–9 globalisation, of technical textiles, 18–19 Fujita, A et al., 271 Godbehere, A P et al., 278 full tricot, warp-knitted structures, 122 Gommers, B et al., 277 functions of technical textiles, 20–22 Gore-Tex, 286, 309, 435, 477, 484 fungistatics, 171 graphitisation, 58 Furniture and Furnishing (Fire) (Safety) gravure coating, 182 Regulations, UK, 167, 248 Gretton, J, 309, 310 fusible interlinings, 183–5 Gymstar (Unitika), 435 coating resins, 185 development of adhesives, 184–5 Haigh, H, 252 history, 184 hairpin selvedge, shuttle weaving machine, modern adhesive development, 185 76 future of the technical textiles industry, Hall, M E et al., 242 19–23 halogen, 167, 242 halogen halides, 250 Gabler system, 90 halogenated species, 471 Gao, F et al., 272 hazardous occupations, 470 gas filtration media, and needlefelts, 147 HDPE (high density polyethylene) filament gauze fabrics, 72, 73 yarns, 59 gel dyeing, acrylic fibres, 203 headliners, 504 gel spinning process, 29, 59 healthcare see hygiene; medical textiles gel spun polyethylene, 455 Hearle, J W S, 162 Gelman Tufferyn, 435 heat geosynthetics, 34, 36, 360–62 and associated hazards, 469–83 maximum daylight exposure, 364 effect on textile material, 224–9 stress-strain curve shapes, 365 heat energy, from various activities, 283 geotextile fibre forming polymers, 361–2 heat and flame protection, 223–63 geotextile structure forms, 395, 398–400 garment construction, 479–83 geotextiles, 11, 18, 34, 358–71 heat and flame resistance, finishes for, 478–9 and chemical resistance, 370 heat proof materials, 9 in civil engineering, 16–17 heat protection characteristics, 481 and creep, 365–6 heat protective textiles, military use, 448– in drainage, 148, 367, 389–90 52 and erosion control, 391 heat release rate, of various fabrics, 496 essential properties, 362–70 heat setting, 161–4 and filtration, 363–4, 367–70, 390–91 conventional dyeing, 207 frictional resistance, 400–405 fibre structure, 162 functional requirements, 387 and filtration, 328–9 mechanical properties, 364–7 in finishing processes, 153 needlefelts, 147 glass transition temperature, 163 price, 360 heat shrinkage, 163 quality, 360 heat-setting mechanisms, 162 and separation, 391 melting point, 163 and soil, 369–70 and polyamides, 164 standard properties of vegetable fibre polymer orientation, 162–3 and synthetic geotextiles, 397 process, 163–4 stress-strain failure levels, 363 synthetic thermoplastic fibres, 207 types, 361 transition temperatures, 163 and ultraviolet light, 364, 370 heavy goods vehicles, use of textiles in, see also natural fibre geotextiles 516–17 Glaessegen, E H and Griffin, O H, 272 helical selvedges, 77 glass, 9–10, 31 Helly-Hansen, Norway, 467 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 551

Index 551

hemp, 376, 378 International Convention for the Safety of plant/fibre, generalised description, 380 Life at Sea, 464 Herszberg, I et al., 274 International Geotextile Society, 359 high chemical resistant organic fibres, 30–31 International Standard Organization, 4 high combustion-resistant fibres, 30–31 intumescent systems, 237 high modulus organic fibres, 29–30 ISO, 252, 9092 high modulus polyethylene (HMPE), 9, 15 ISO 9000, 360 high performance fibres, 8–9 ISO 9092, 130 high performance inorganic fibres, 31–3 ISO 11092, 302, 431, 437 high performance pigments, for ISO Grey Scale, 218 polypropylene fibres, 201 high strain organic fibres, 29–30 Jäger, 89 high temperature fibres, properties, 231 Japan, 5, 7, 8 high temperatures and associated hazards, microfibres, 33 469–83 Japan Exlan Co, 240 Hoechst, 28, 167, 238 Japanese ‘Chemical’ Fibres Manufacturers Hoechst-Celanise, 30 Association (JCFA), 5 Hogg, P J et al., 277, 278, 279 jig dyeing, 212–13 Hohenstein Skin Model Apparatus, 431, 437 Jones, R M, 268 Hohn, W, 539 Jürgens, 89 Holme, I, 246, 254 jute, 6, 25, 378, 392 Holme, I and Patel, S R, 251 plant/fibre, generalised description, 381 Holmes, D A, Grundy, C and Rowe, D, 306 woven fabric geotextiles, 373 home textiles, 13–14 Horrocks, A R, 229, 236, 246, 248 Kandola, 249 Horrocks, A R et al., 239, 251 Kanecaron, 167, 234 Horstmann, G, 532 Kaneka Corporation, 167, 234 horticulture, 14–15 Karl Mayer, West Germany, 114 hot-melt coating, coating techniques, 183 Karvin (DuPont), 235, 474 Howa Machinery Ltd, Japan, 74 Kemira (now Sateri Fibres), Finland, 27 hydrocel, 37 Kermel, 232, 445, 473 hydroentanglement, nonwoven fabrics, Kevlar, 29, 30, 58, 230, 455, 465, 466, 477, 150–51 478, 496 hydrogen bonding, in heat setting, 162 in protection and defence, 38 hydrophilic coatings, 291–2, 435 as a structural reinforcement, 497 hydrophilic membranes, 287–9 Kilzer and Broido mechanism for cellulosic hygiene products, 420–23, 487 pyrolysis, 249 applications, 13, 37–8 Kilzer, F J and Broido, A, 248 fibre type and manufacture, 421 knife coating, 180–82 hypalon, 178 air knife coating, 182 hypothermia, protection from, 463–5 knife geometry, 181–2 knitted carbon reinforcement, 276 ignitability knitted fabrics, 95–29 of bedcovers and pillows, 254–5 definitions, 95–7 of fabrics used in tented structures, 254 dust collection, 328 of textile floor coverings, 255–6 knitted reinforcement impermeable clothing, effects in different analyses, 277 conditions, 435 for composites, 274–7 implantable materials, 415–20 damage accumulation, 276–7 industrial products and components, 12–13 mechanical properties, 275–6 industrial textiles, 2, 11 knitting machinery, classification, 97 inherently flame-retardant fibres, 229–34 knitting machines, displacement curves of in protective clothing, 470 various needles, 119 Inidex, 30, 232–3, 520 Koerner, R M and Welsh, J P, 359 Institute Textile de France, 375 Kotresh, T M et al., 234 insulation, effect of moisture, 434 Kralik, M, 532 insulation efficiency, of thermal insulation Kramar, L, 532, 539 materials, 432–3 Krasny, J et al., 256 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 552

552 Index

Kriz, R D, 272 matrix materials, 37 Kunit, 503 matt weave fabrics, 66 Kuo, W-S and Chou, T-W, 265, 272 Matthews, F L and Rawlings, R, 268 Kurose, A and Shirai, H, 249 mattresses, fire tests, 253–4 Kynol, 233–4 Mayer, Karl, 113 mechanical properties, of fibres, 26 laboratory matching, total colour medical textiles, 13, 37–8, 407–24 management systems, 210–11 commodity fibres, 408–9 Laminariae (seaweed), 408 nonwoven medical products, in Western laminated composites, 268 Europe, 408 laminated plate theory, 268, 272 speciality fibres, 409–10 laminating, 185–6 melt blowing process, nonwovens, 139–40 lamination, car seat covers, 502–3 melting point, heat setting, 163 land pollution, 535–6 mercerization, of cotton, 206 latch needles meta-aramids, 30, 230 loop formation, 99–100 meta-phenylene isophthalamide, 30 weft knitting machines, 97–8 metallised coatings, and thermal insulation, Lee, William, 113 469 leno fabrics, 71–4 Micrell, 33 leno selvedges, 76–7 microbicidal finishes, 171 Lenzig:84, 30 manufacturers, 172 Lenzing AG, 27, 167, 230, 235, 328 microbiological hazards, 483–8 Lenzing FR, 167 microfibres, 32–3 Lenzing Viscose FR, 235 microporous coatings, 290, 435 Leong, K H et al., 277 production methods, 290–91 Levchik, G F et al., 241 microporous membranes, 286–7 levelling agents, in dyeing, 193 military use of textiles see defence Lewin, M, 248 Miller, B et al., 226, 251 Lewis, P A, 204 Milliken (USA), 13 Liba, West Germany, 114 Mischutin, V, 250 lick roll, coating technique, 179–80 mitrelle, 33 Liebowitz, Benjamin, 184 Mitsubishi (r), 33 light durability, of natural and synthetic ‘mock leno’ weave, 345 fibres, 494 modacrylic, 234 limiting oxygen index (LOI), 226 military use, 451, 452 effect of fabric mass, fibre and blend moisture, effect on insulation, 434 ratio, 474 molten metal, protection from, 472 of high chemical and combustion- monofilaments, and filtration, 341–2 resistant organic fibres, 31 Monsanto Co, 28, 241 link fabrics, and filtration, 348–50 Montefibre, 167 liquid crystalline polymers, 29 mordant dyes, 194 liquid flame-retardant, and polyester, 250 Morden, K, 323 Lomax, J, 283, 303, 304 mosaic model, 272 Lorica, 511 multifilaments, and filtration, 342–4 Lycra, 29 multiknit, 503 Lyocell, 37 multilayer insulation systems, for protective clothing, 467–8 Ma, Z et al., 239 multiphase weaving machines, 94 marine applications, 521–3 shedding, 85–7 coated fabrics, 522 weft insertion, 85 fibre composites, 522 Munsell Chip system, 208 furnishing fabrics, 521–2 Murata system, 51 markets, for technical textiles, 1, 20–22 mustard agent, 457 Marxmeier, H, 311 mass coloration N-methyl morpholine oxide, 27 of artificial fibres, 200–204 N-methylol and colour fastness properties, 202–3 dialkylphosphonopropionamides, dyes and pigments for, 200–201 246 methods, 201–2 Naik, R A et al., 274 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 553

Index 553

Naik, R A and Shembekar, P S, 272 nonwovens NASA, 478 in car interiors, 507–8 natural fibre geotextiles, 372–406 flash spinning, 138–9 applications, 378–91 melt blowing process, 139–40 creep, 394–5 spun laying, 137–8 development, 372–4 wet laying, 136 durability/biodegradation rates, 393–4 nonwovens industry, 4 engineering properties, 391–2 Norgaard, L, 532 long-term stability, 393–5 normal gloss, 156 performance during shear, 401–3 Norman, T L et al., 274 for soil strengthening, 393–5 novelty fibres, 33–4 natural fibres, 6–7, 25–7 stress/strain curves, 34 medical and hygiene applications, 37–8, novoloid fibres, 233–4 409 nylon, 7, 27–8, 334 pretreatment prior dyeing, 204 in airbags, 509 properties, 374–7 dyeing, 193 strength, elongation and modulus values compared to synthetic fibres, 375 Oasis, 28 near infrared camouflage, 444–5 Oeko-Tex Standard 100, 239, 246 dyes for, 445–6 Omerod, A Sondhelm, W S, 82, 83, 90 needlefelt nonwoven carpets, in cars, 507–8 Orbit 112, 86 needlefelting organophosphorus, 241 needlelooms, 146 original equipment manufacturers (OEMs), nonwoven fabrics, 145–48 512 needlefelts Orlon, 28 dust collection, 326–8 orthopaedic implants, 419 and liquid filtration, 350–51 Oszevski, R J, 309 uses, 147–8 Outlast (Gateway Technologies Inc), 469 neoprene (DuPont), 509 overlap, in knitted fabrics, 96 neoprene rubbers, 177–8 oxidised acrylic fibres, 30 nerve agents, 457–8 in protective clothing, 471 Nextel (DuPont), 229 oxygen index NFPA 1971, Protective Clothing for correlation with elemental composition, Structural Fire Fighting, 256 228 Nicalon (Nippon Carbon Co.), 229 of flame-retardant materials, 226 Nikki Chemical Industry, 250 nitrile rubber, 176–7 P84 (aromatic copolyamide fibre), 230, 328 noise pollution, 536 packaging and containment, 15–16 Nomex, 30, 58, 167, 226, 230, 252, 328, 445, pad bath additives, 248 471, 473, 477, 478, 496 pad-batch dyeing, 214 Nomex III(DuPont), 472 Palmer finishing, 157 non-crimp fabric (NCF), 277 Pandey, R and Hahn, H T, 274 analyses, 279 Panotex, 233 damage accumulation, 279 Panox (RK Textiles), 30, 233, 473 mechanical properties, 278 Pantone, 208 non-implantable materials, medical use, paper industry, 136 410–12, 416 para-aramid fibres, 230 non-woven-promulgated, definition, 4 para-aramids, 30 nonwoven fabrics, 10, 13, 130–51 para-phenylene terephthalamide see Kevlar for ballistic protection, 465 parallel shed weaving machines, 86 batt production using carding machines, parcel trays, 507 131–4 Paris Commission, 539 definitions, 130 Parkes, Alexander, 184 hydroentanglement, 150–51 Parkesine, 184 needlefelting, 145–48 Partex System for upholstery fabrics, 254 solvent bonding, 145 particle collection efficiency, 333 stitch bonding, 148–50 Pbi Gold, 232 in survival products, 488 PBI (polybenzimidazole), 59, 232, 471, 477, thermal bonding, 143–5 520 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 554

554 Index

PBO (polyphenylenebenzobisoxazole), 60 polymers, 29 penetration pressure tests, 297–8 flash spinning, 138 Perenich, T A, 532 melt blowing process, 139–40 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) at spun laying, 137–8 Work Regulations (European polyolefins, 8, 28, 435 Union), 17 polyphenylene sulphide (PPS), 9 perspiration polypropiolactone (PPL), 410 and military textiles, 431–2 polypropylene, 15, 28, 34 rates from various activites, 283 fibres, high performance pigments for, 201 sweat buffering indices, 431 in geotextiles, 361–2 pesticides, and protective clothing, 484–6 industry, UK, 6 Peter Cook International, 254 in liquid filtration, 334 phenolic fibres, 9, 233–4 oxidation damage, 334 Philene, 234 polysilic acid, 236 ‘philosophical Transaction, 425 polytetrafluoroethylene see PTFE phthalocyanine dyes, 190, 195 polyurethanes, 178–9 physical degradation, of polymers, 36 polyvinyl acetate, 185 pigment printing, 215 polyvinyl chloride (PVC), 173–4 pigments, 189, 192–200 polyvinylidene chloride (PVDC), 174 formulations, 200 potassium iodide, 241 high performance pigments for Primapor (Madison Filter), 352–3 polypropylene fibres, 201 print monitoring systems, 216 for mass coloration, 200–201 printing, 215–17 for technical coated fabrics, 203–4 car seat covers, 502 plain single jersey and the environment, 540 fabric geometry of, 108 fabric printing machinery, 216–17 K-Constant values, 109 print image, 216 plain weave styles, 215–16 for ballistic protection, 465 Proban (Albright and Wilson), 25, 165–6, construction, 63–4 168, 478 diversity of fabrics, 64–5 military use, 451 and filtration, 347 ProbanCC (Albright and Wilson), 247, 248 plant fibres projectile weaving machines, weft insertion, chemical composition, 386 88–9 morphological characteristics, 386 Protech 2000, 487 physical characteristics, 386 protection and defence applications, 38–9 ply yarn, 52–5 protection index, effect of garment mass pollution, 531–2 and thickness, 481 textile sources, 533–7 protective clothing, 17–18, 139, 165, 226, polyacrylate (Inidex), 30, 232–3, 520 232, 233, 234, 251, 461–3 polyacrylic fibres, properties, 28 agriculture, 484–7 poly(amide-imide) fibres, 232 European consumption of fabric, 464 polyamides, 7, 334 evaluation, 256–7 and heat setting, 164 fabric constructions, 475–8 polybenzimidazole (PBI), 9, 30, 232, 466 flame-retardants in, 471 polycaprolactone (PCL), 410 inherently flame-retardant fibres in, 470 polychloroprene (neoprene), 177–8 military use, 448 polyester, 7, 28 multilayer insulation systems, 467–8 flame-retardant additives, 238 oxidised acrylic fibres, 471 flame-retardant finishes, 249–50 specification for racing drivers’ garment recycled, 503 assembly, 483 polyester/cellulosic blends, flame-retardant suitable fibres, 470–72 finishes, 250–51 thermal protective clothing, construction, polyethylene, 28 479–83 in geotextiles, 361–2 TPP ratings, 482 polyethyletherketone (PEEK), 9 use of fibre blends, 472–5 polyheterocyclic fibre, 30 wool in, 472 polymer orientation, heat setting, 162–3 Protex M, 234 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 555

Index 555

Pryce, A W and Smith, P A, 265 rotor spinning, 46–8 PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene), 9, 174–5 rubber, as a textile coating, 175–6 fibres, 59 Ruckman, J E, 306, 307, 309 laminated, 304, 305, 307, 308 Rumford, Count, 425 medical uses, 417, 419 Rüti shuttle weaving machine, schematic membranes, 311, 312 section, 81 pulse jet cleaning, 319–20 Ryton (sulfar) fibres (Tm 285o), 232 Purchas, D B, 335 Purdy, A T, 350 safety clothing, 17–18 Pyromex, 233 sails, 522–3 Pyrotex, 25 Saltz, P, 303, 305 Pyrovatex (Ciba-Geigy), 165, 166–7, 168, Sandoflam 5060 (Sandoz), 167, 234–5 246, 248, 478 Saranex, 487–8 Sarsby, R W et al., 393 quadraxial reinforcement, 278 sateens, 70–71, 72 quick style change, single phase weaving Sateri Fibres (formerly Kemira), Finland, 27 machines, 93 satin, 70–71, 72 satin weaves, and filtration, 348 radiant and convective heat sources, saturation bonding, 140–42 comparison, 476 Savina (Kanebo), 435 radiation hazards, 487–8 Scapa (UK), 13 railways, textile applications, 517–19 Schreiner finishing, 156 raising scouring, conventional dyeing, 205 and filtration, 329–30 sealed selvedges, 77 in finishing processes, 152, 157–9 seatbelts, cars, 508 modern raising machines, 157, 158 Securitex, 466 Raju, I S et al., 271 SEF (Solutia Inc.), 234 Ramakrishna, S, 277 self-extinguishing modacrylic fibres, 242 Ramakrishna, S and Hull, D, 276 selvedges, 74–7 ramie, 25 hairpin selvedge, 76 Rankilor, P R, 359 leno selvedges, 76–7 Ranklor, P R, 359 sealed selvedges, 77 Rapier weaving machines, 89–90 tucked-in selvedges, 77 raschel machines, 114–15 semicarbon/panox fibres, 233 knitting action, 115–16, 118–19 semiduplex weaves, and filtration, 348 Raz, S, 359 separation, and geotextiles, 391 reactive dyes, 196–7 Setila, 33 systems and brand names, 197 The Setting of Fibres abnd Fabrics, 162 recycling, 533, 538 shake cleaning, 319 of car interiors, 512–13 shearing regenerated fibres, 27 in finishing processes, 159, 160 Reid, J D and Mazzeno, L W, 246 interactive values, natural fibre and resist printing, 215–16 synthetic geotextiles compared, 404 Resistat (BASF), 519 performance of vegetable geotextiles, resource depletion, 531–2, 532–3 401–3 respirators, military use, 458 shedding, 81, 83–7 retardant-finish formulations, for cotton, multiphase weaving machines, 85–7 247 single phase weaving machines, 84–5 reverse air cleaning, 319 shrinkage, 355 Rhone-Poulenc, 232, 234 Shukla, L and Singh, R K, 251 Rhovylon FR, 234 shuttles, 97–8 rib fabrics, 66, 67 Sigratex, 233 ring spinning, 42–6 silica-based fibres, 229–30 RK Textiles, UK, 30 silicon carbide (SiC), 32 Robinson, A T and Marks, R, 68, 70 silicon oxide (or silica) fibres, 32 rotary screen coating, 182–3 silicone rubbers, 178 rotary screen printing, 216 silk, 7, 24, 25, 27, 55 rotary vacuum drum filter, 340 dyeing, 196 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 556

556 Index

silk finishing, 156 staple fibre yarns, 42–54 singeing, 204 air-jet spinning, 51–2 and filtration, 329 and filtration, 345–6 single jersey fabric, 95 friction spinning, 48–9 single jersey latch needle machines, 100–102 ply yarn, 52–5 single phase weaving machines ring spinning, 42–6 automatic stop motions, 93 rotor spinning, 46–8 quick style change, 93 twistless spinning, 52–3 shedding, 84–5 wrap spinning, 49–51 take-up motion, 92–3 Starlinger circular , 86 warp supply and let-off motion, 92 static electricity, in cars, 515 weft insertion, 87–92 statistical reporting, 5 Sirolan (TM) LTD, 192 stitch bonding sisal, 6, 378 nonwoven fabrics, 148–50 plant/fibre, generalised description, 384 to produce a pile fabric, 149 sleeping bags, vapour permeability, 438–9 without threads, 149 snow camouflage, 441 stitch density, 95 soft-tissue implants, 418–19 stitch length, 95 softflow jet dyeing machine, 214 stitched fabrics, composites, 277–9 soil, and geotextiles, 369–70 Stoddart, J W et al., 241 soil reinforcement, 378, 380, 382 Stomatex, 293 long-term embankments, 382, 388 Stork, 183 and natural fibre geotextiles, 393–5 stress/strain behaviour, fibres, 29 short-term embankments, 388–9 stress/strain curves Solar-Aloha, 33 novelty fibres, 34 solid-liquid separation, 333–41 ultra-fine fibres, 34 fabric design/selection considerations, structures, of woven fabrics, 62–94 334–41 styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR), 176 filter aids and body feed, 338–9 submarine suits, 467 filtrate clarity, 335–6 sulphamates, as fire retardants, 248 filtrate throughput, 336 sulphur, 321 filtration equipment considerations, sulphur dyes, 197–8 339–41 Sulzer Brothers (now Sulzer-Textil), good cake release, 337–8 Switzerland, 77 low cake moisture content, 336–7 Sulzer Rüti, 91 properties of fibres, 335 Sulzer Textil, 88, 89 resistance to abrasive forces, 338, 339, multiphase parallel shed M8300 loom, 340–41 shed formation, 86 resistance to blinding, 337 Supara, 30 thermal and chemical conditions, 334–5 surface coating, in finishing processes, 153 solvent bonding, nonwoven fabrics, 145 surface modification, for filtration fabrics, Sommer Alibert (UK) Ltd, 469 352–3 Sommerflex, 469 survival Soteri, 471 long term survival, 466–88 space suits, cotton in, 478 short term (accident) survival, 463–5 special surface treatments, and filtration, textiles for, 461–89 331–3 sutures, 417 specialist yarns, and cars, 515 Swissing, 156 Spectra, 29, 59, 455 Sympatex, 293, 436 Spectra Shield, 39 synthetic fibres, 27–9 spectrophotometers, 208–9 in civil and agricultural engineering, 34 sport and leisure, 16 synthetic thermoplastic fibres, heat setting, spray bonding, 143 207 spray guards, 517 spun laying, nonwovens, 137–8 Tactel, 33 standards take-up motion, single phase weaving for flame-retardants, 253–8 machines, 92–3 harmonisation, 217 tarpaulins, 516–17 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 557

Index 557

teasels, 157 thermal-protective performance (TPP), 477, technical fabric structures 482 knitted fabrics, 95–29 thermofixation, 215 nonwoven fabrics, 130–51 thermoplastic melt hazard, 450–51 woven fabrics, 62–94 Thermosol process, 200 technical fibre mill consumption (1995), 6 Thinsulate (3M), 468 technical fibres, 24–41 Thompson, Benjamin, 425 technical textiles, definitions, 2, 24 tightness factor K, in knitted fabrics, 97 technical textiles industry, future, 19–23 Toray Industries, 250 Technora (Teijin), 30, 230 total colour management systems, 208–11 Techtextil, 3, 11, 18 colour measurement, 208–210 Teflon, medical use, 419 laboratory matching, 210–11 Teijin, 30 specification of colours and colour Tekmilon, 59 communication, 208 temperature-regulating fabric, 469 toxic fumes and smoke, 449–50 tenacity range, of high chemical and toxicity of fabrics at different burning combustion-resistant organic temperatures, 239 fibres, 31 Toyobo, 60 Tencel, 27 transfer coating, 183 tented structures, ignitability, 254 transfer printing, 217 tetrabromophthalic acid (TBPA), 251 transportation tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium future prospects, 523 chloride (THPC), 165 properties of fibres used in, 493 TEXCAD, 274 seat coverings, 492–6 textile body armours, 453 textiles in, 12, 490–524 Textile Centre at Bolton Institute, 395 use of fibre/plastic composites, 496–7 textile chemicals, and pollution, 540 Trevira CS (Hoechst), 167, 237, 238, 471 textile combustion, 224 Trevira FR, 237 textile composite analysis for design, 274 triarylmethanes, in coloration, 190 textile floor coverings, evaluation for triaxial weaves, 74, 75 ignitability, 255–6 triboelectric series, 170 Textile Institute, 2 tricot industry, 114 textile processes, 10–11 tricot machines, 114–15 textile reinforcement, 265–70 Tris-BP, 249 Textile Terms and Definitions,2,33 Trubenised Process Corporation, 184 textile-reinforced composite materials, tucked-in selvedges, 77 264–81 Twaron, 30, 230, 455, 465 textiles, scope of the term, 3–5 in protection and defence, 38 thermal behaviour of fibres, 224–9 twill fabrics, 66, 68–70 thermal bonding twill weaves, and filtration, 347 with high pressure, 144 twistless spinning, 52–3 nonwoven fabrics, 143–5 NTO method, 52, 53 with point contact, 144 Tyranno (Ube Industries Ltd), 229 powder bonding, 145 tyres, 37, 490, 497 without pressure, 144 Tyuganova, M A et al., 240 thermal convective testing, of different Tyvek, 139, 464, 487 fibres and fibre blends, 474 thermal infrared camouflage waveband, Uedelhoven, W and Braun, W, 311 446–7 ultra-fine fibres, 33–4 thermal insulation materials, military use, stress/strain curves, 34 432–4 ultra-high modulus polyethylene thermal properties (UHMPE), 455 of clothing fabrics, 473 ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene of various fibres, 228 (UHMWPE), 29 thermal protection, selection of suitable in protective garments, 39 fibres, 229–46 ultraviolet degradation, resistance in thermal protective clothing, construction, transportation fabrics, 492–4 479–83 ultraviolet light, and geotextiles, 364, 370 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 558

558 Index

ultraviolet waveband, and camouflage, two-guide bar full-set structures, 120–21 439–40 different structures, 122–4 underlap, in knitted fabrics, 96–7 warp-knitting machines, 113–19 Unitika, Japan, 33, 250 classification, 116 USA, 5–6 knitting action of compound needle machine, 115, 117 V-bed flat machine, knitting action, 103–5 knitting action of standard raschel VAETREX, 468 machine, 115–16, 118–19 Van Krevelen, D W, 226 machinery developments, 113–14 Vaslsol LTA-N(TM), 192 raschel machines, 114–15 vat dyes, 198 tricot machines, 114–15 vegetable fibre, 376 yarn developments, 113 geotextiles, 392 warping equipment, for filtration fabrics, mechanical parameters from stress-strain, 351 386 water pollution, 534–5 properties, 377–8 water vapour permeability, 306, 307, 308 tensile strength, 375 of membranes, 311 yarns, total strain and creep strain, 396 water vapour permeable fabrics Velicren FR (Montefibre, Italy), 167, 234, comparison of performance, 436 471 military items, 437 Venlan, military use, 427 water vapour permeable/waterproof Ventile fabric, 284–6, 308, 435 materials, military use, 435–6 military use, 426 water vapour resistance of fabrics, 304 vertical strip test, for flame-retardants, 248, water vapour transfer, 307, 309 253 water vapour transport (WVT), through Viloft (Courtaulds), 468 rainwear fabrics, 305 Vinylon (PVA, polyvinyl alcohol), 8 water-repellant fabrics, 39 viscose rayon, 7, 27 water-repellent finishes, 168–9, 170 visible waveband, and camouflage, 440–43 waterproof breathable fabrics, 282–315 Visil, 27, 167, 235, 237, 471, 520 applications, 284 physical and mechanical properties, 236 assessment techniques, 294–303 VisilAP, 236 biomimetics, 293 visual decoys, camouflage, 443 coatings, 290–92 visual pollution, 536–7 methods of applying, 292 vortex spinner, 51 densely woven fabrics, 284–6 market for, 293–4 Wakelyn, P J et al., 246 measurement of resistance to penetration wale, in knitted fabrics, 95 and absorption of water, 294–8 Wang, Y et al., 276 measurement of water vapour warp knitting, 95 permeability, 299–303 warp preparation, 82–3 British Standard method, 301–2 warp supply and let-off motion, single European and international standards, phase weaving machines, 92 302–3 warp-knitted fabric research techniques, 300 area density, 127–8 standard routine tests, 300 end use applications, 128 measurement of water vapour fabric quality, 125–7 permeability ASTM methods, grey specification, 124–5 300–301 laid-in structure, 126 measurement of wind resistance, 298–9 principle of laying-in, 126 membranes, 286–90 tightness factor, 127 methods of incorporation, 289–90 warp-knitted structures, 119–29 performance, 303–14 full tricot, 122 physiology, durability and protection, locknit, 123 312–14 single-guide bar structures, 120, 121 Watson, W, 68, 70 stitch notation, 119–20 weave structures, 63–5 three-needle queen’s cord, 124 plain weave, 63–5 three-needle sharkskin, 123 diversity of fabrics, 64–5 TECIndex 11/24/2000 10:32 AM Page 559

Index 559

weaving equipment, for filtration fabrics, Wellington Sears Handbook of Industrial 351 Textiles, 2 weaving machines () wet laying, nonwovens, 136 and beating-up, 81 whiskers, 32–3 classification, 83 Whiteley, R H, 257 machine width, 93–4 winch (or beck) dyeing, 213 and operations, 80–94 WIRA (Wool Industries Research shedding, 81, 83–7 Association) shower tester, 294–6 warp preparation, 82–3 Witcoflex Staycool, 436 weft insertion, 81 Woo, K and Whitcomb, J, 272 Weder, M, 312 wood pulp, 27 weft insertion wool, 7, 25 by air jet, 91 dyeing, 192–3, 196 by shuttle, 97–8 flame retardant finish, 251–2 projectile weaving machines, 88–9 problems of blue wool standards, 218 single phase weaving machines, 87–92 in protective clothing, 472 weft knitted structures, 105, 106 ring spun fabric and yarn, 43, 345, comparison of appearance and 346 properties, 107 wound care, 411–12 weft knitting, 95, 96 woven composites, analyses, 272–3 circular machines, 112–13 woven fabric-reinforced composites, 270– dimensional properties, 105 73 fabric geometry of plain single jersey, 108 damage accumulation, 272 feed devices, 110, 111, 112 mechanical properties, 271–2 flat bar machines, 110, 112 woven fabrics laboratory stages of relaxation, 105, 108 dust collection, 326 process control, 105–10 structures, 62–94 quality control, 110 wrap spinning, 49–51 straight-bar machines (fully fashioned machines), 113 X-fire (Teijin), 230 weft knitting machines, 97–105 Xironet, 186 bearded needle, 98 compound needle, 98 Yang, J-W and Chou, C-W, 269 double jersey machines, 102–5 yarn linear density, 96 latch needle, 97–8 yarn types, and filtration, 341–7 latch needles, loop formation, 99–100 Young’s modulus, 266, 270, 271, 277, 278 single jersey latch needle machines, 100–102 Zimmer, 183 V-bed flat machine, knitting action, 103–5 Zirpro (IWS), 25, 233, 251, 472, 519, 520, weft-knitted fabrics, end-use applications, 522 110–13 military use, 451, 452 Weil, E D et al., 257 Zubkova, N S, 240 welders protective clothing, 257 Zylon, 60