Denim Brand Bible

Contents

History of Jeans and Denim 3 Blue Jean History Who invented jeans 4 Denim History Origin of denim 5 History of dungaree fabric 6 Skinny jean history 7 History of bootcut jeans 8 Zipper History Who invented the zipper 9 History of Indigo Blue of blue jeans 11 Denim production 13 Selvedge denim 16 Atonomy of Denim 20 Fabrication 22 Our Brands 25 Paige 26 J Brand 29 Citizens of Humanity 32 7 For all Mankind 35 Nudie Jeans Co 39 NEUW 42 True Religion 45 Replay 48 Levi’s 51

2 History of Jeans and Denim Blue Jeans History Who Invented Jeans? Jeans are pants made from denim or to file the papers. Because of that he dungaree cloths which are both cotton suggested to Levi Strauss in 1872 that cloths but denim is woven and then two of them hold the patent. Levi liked colored while dungaree is woven from the idea and on May 20, 1873, the two colored yarn. “Jeans” is a short for “blue men received patent no.139,121 from jeans” which are invented by Jacob the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. Davis and Levi Strauss in 1873. Jeans After that Levi hired Jacob Davis to as name for trousers come from city of oversee production of the riveted pants Genoa in Italy, a place where cotton at his factory - the Levi Strauss & Co. corduroy, called either jean or jeane, Denim from which the cloths of were was manufactured. Republic of Genoa at Levi Strauss & Co made came from exported the jeans throughout Europe. Amoskeag Mill in Manchester, New Weavers from the French city of Nimes Hampshire. tried to copy jean but could not. Fabric Jeans were working clothes at first. They they ended up with became known were made from durable materials and as denim, literally “de Nimes” or “from could last long. Men’s jeans had the History of Jeans and Denim Nimes”. zipper down the front, while women’s In 1851 Levi Strauss came from Germany jeans had the zipper at the left side and to New York where his brother held dry both were designed to fit loosely and in goods store as a family business. From form of overalls. In 1950s Jeans without there, Levi Strauss went to San Francisco the bib became symbol of youth in March 1853, to start a West Coast rebellion after James Dean popularized branch of the business - Levi Strauss & them in the movie “Rebel without a Co. wholesale house. Before he came Cause”. Because of their meaning they there, a Gold Rush began in California became banned in schools, theatres in 1848. Among other things, miners and restaurants. They became more needed strong clothes that could acceptable in 1960s and by the 1970s withstand rough working conditions. they became accepted as a part of One of the tailors that tried to make fashion. In 1965, Limbo, a boutique in clothes that would fill this condition was the New York East Village, was the first Jacob Davis, tailor from Reno, Nevada, retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to who purchased bolts of cloth from the make them look used and worn out, wholesale house of Levi Strauss & Co. decorated them with patches and Only problem he had is that clothes decals and sold them like that for $200. ripped at pockets of the pants. He Idea soon became a hit. In time jeans reinforced corners of the pockets with changes looks but never got out of metal rivets and with that made them style. Today jeans is worn by people of stronger. Jacob Davis tried to patent all genders and ages. the idea but didn’t have the money 4 Denim History Origin of Denim Denim was first used for clothes worn by Original denim was dyed with dye workers because of its high durability. from plant Indigofera tinctoria. Modern Then it became widely popular in the denim is dyed with synthetic indigo. 1930s when Hollywood started making Denim is often dyed with indigo and cowboy movies in which actors wore dried many times over to get a stronger jeans. With the beginning of the World color that will not fade quickly. After the War 2, production of the jeans drops denim is made into clothing it as most but world meet denim when American often washed to make it softer and to soldiers started wearing them when reduce or eliminate shrinkage. Denim they were on the leave. When the war that is not washed is called dry or raw ended, other companies that made denim. Denim fades in time and gets a denim started appearing like Wrangler worn out look which is often desired as a and Lee. Young people started fashion detail. Some denim is artificially wearing denim in the 1950s a mean of distressed so a worn-out look can be rebellion. This fashion was also inspired got even before wearing. Denim that by Hollywood with by Marlon Brando is not made of pure cotton but also with his 1953 film “The Wild One” as well has an elastic component (most often James Dean’s movie “Rebel Without a elastane) is stretch denim. Beside indigo Cause” from 1955. Some public places dyeing, denim can be colored with like schools and theaters banned jeans sulfur dyeing which is used for dyeing of because of what they symbolized. denim in colors other than indigo. Denim crossed from counterculture to fashion in the 1960s and 1970s when manufacturers started to make different styles of jeans.

5 History of Dungaree Fabric Dungaree was mentioned for the first They were used the same way as jeans time in the 17th century, when it was clothing. referred to a cheap, coarse, thick cotton Dungaree is often compared to denim, cloth, often colored blue but sometimes but there is a difference. While denim white, worn by impoverished people is woven from uncolored yarn and in what was then a region of Bombay, only colored after weaving, dungaree India a dockside village called Dongri. is made from pre-colored yarn. They Hindi name of this cloth was “dungri”. became fashionable in the other half of Dungri was exported to England and the 40s and by the start of the 50s, they used for manufacturing of cheap, gained wider acceptance as casual robust working clothes. English began wear because they are comfortable, to call “dungri” cloth a little different, easy to wear and practical. and it became “dungaree”. Everyone Today dungarees are made in a wide who needed clothes for hard work range of sizes, colors, fits, and forms. that would not tear after a short time, They can be tight or loose-fitting, stone- from workers to slaves, began to wear washed and deep indigo, frayed and dungarees. It was used for making of formal. utility uniforms in the United States Navy during the World War One. Dungaree was also used for working clothes of women during that same time. It was used as a material for sails from which sailors later made their cloth for the same reasons as above. Because of all of that, name “dungaree” was starting to be used for fabric as well as for an item of clothing (as plural “dungarees”).

6 Skinny Jeans History Slim-fit pants or skinny jeans (also known tapered jeans as well as musicians of as drainpipes, stovepipes, tight pants, the beginning of the rock and roll. Some cigarette pants, pencil pants, skinny of the names that wore skinny jeans pants or skinnies) are a type of pants were singing cowboy Roy Rogers, Gene that are tailored to have narrow legs Autry, actress Marilyn Monroe, and and small leg opening. Some skinny Sandra Dee and Elvis Presley. Drainpipe jeans are made with stretch denim so jeans were a part of an image of rock they could be slim while other can have ‘n’ roll. Skinny pants were continued to zippers on the leg openings. “Ancestors” be worn by rock bands and musicians of skinny jeans are breeches which in the 1960s, bands and musicians like were fashionably tight and worn since The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Bob the seventeenth century. They were Dylan. End of the 1960s brought hippies first popular in France, at the court of and bell bottom jeans which ended Louis XIII, and were later introduced to the reign of skinny jeans until 1970s, England, and the rest of Europe. They glam rock, rockabilly and punk which were very popular among the high especially liked red tartan drainpipe classes. In time tight trousers ceased jeans. 1980s bring spandex which as being popular but appeared again a countermeasure brought skin-tight from 1805 until 1850 (fashion moves in acid-washed jeans popular with most cycles) as a tight variant of the loose heavy metal bands. In the 1990s, tight work trousers worn during the French jeans were popular among pop stars Revolution. These tight pants were but it quickly went out of fashion in called “pantaloons” and were worn favor of baggy carpenter jeans. Scene high on the waist. At the beginning of stayed like that until 2004 when skinny technological revolution, when mass- jeans (did we say that fashion moves production replaced tailoring, more in cycles?) started replacing baggy loosely fitted pants started replacing gangster jeans and are here still. Skinny tight pantaloons. At the end of the 19th pants started as a fashion for the rich century they again fall out of fashion but in time all classes started wearing and stay there until 1950s when popular them and there are even skinny pants stars of music and film are reintroducing for both sexes. them. Country music stars and actors in western movies started again wearing

7 History of Boot-cut Jeans Boot-cut jeans are denim pants that are under the influence of flower children, tailored straight from waist to the knee design changes and legs became and then slightly wider to the ankle. widely flared. Boot-cut jeans become They were influenced by trousers that bell-bottomed jeans which lasted until were worn by sailors in the 1850s which 1980s when boot-cut jeans came back. were designed for them so they would Today boot-cut jeans style continues allow wearing of the boots without to be popular and is an acceptable much problem. Boot-cut jeans became casual wear for both men and women. popular amongst cowboys and ranch Modern boot-cut jeans are slightly workers because they were comfortable different that classical. The waist height and allowed for boots which were is lower and placed at about the belly necessary for everyday work. When button and below natural waistline. cowboys began to disappear in the real world, Hollywood reintroduced boot- cut jeans in their western films and it became popular again. Boot cut jeans was designed for those who want the durability and comfort. In 1960s and 70s,

8 Zipper History Who Invented the Zipper? Zipper (also known as zip or zip fastener) He received a patent in 1851 for an is a mechanical device used to connect “Automatic, Continuous Clothing two edges of the fabric. It has a variety of Closure”. General idea was to two sew uses in clothes, luggage, camping gear reinforcements to two edges of cloth and sporting goods. Modern zippers are and connect them with small metal made to have of two rows of protruding clasps. Clasps would be connected teeth which are made to interconnect to each other with a strip of wool and and lock when they pass through the separated from each other. When the slider which is also a part of the zipper. strip is pulled it would drag strips along, They can have different principal uses. separate them from each other and They can increase or decrease the size close opening between the clothes. of an already existing opening to allow Pushing of clasps together would open or restrict the passage of objects like in the opening again. Because of success case of a fly of trousers or of a dress or of sewing machine, Elias Howe didn’t skirt. They can also be used to connect market his invention too much. In and separate two edges of the same 1890Max Wolff from Moscow invented a garment, for instance front of a jacket. typo of zipper whose teeth were made Detachable parts of garments can be from in a shape of spiral but because of attached with zippers and zippers can inadequate technology of the time that also be used as decoration (without type of zipper didn’t appeared on the practical use, just a detail on the market until 1950s. In 1893, Whitcomb clothes). Judson invented and marketed a Like many inventions, zipper is also “Clasp Locker”, a sort of hook-and-eye the result of series of ideas by many shoe fastener. inventors. It all started with Elias Howe who invented the sewing machine.

9 He joined forces with Colonel Lewis tobacco pouches. It took a while for Walker and launched the Universal fashion to take zippers in consideration Fastener Company to manufacture as substitution for buttons and first in the new device. The same year, “Clasp children’s clothing because children Locker” was shown at Chicago World’s could dress themselves with zippers. Fair and also had very little commercial Today there are many different types success because of high price and of zippers. There are coil zippers (made unreliability. After the Universal Fastener with coils in spiral form or with coils in Company was reorganized as the ladder form), invisible zippers (with “Fastener Manufacturing and Machine teeth hidden behind a tape), metallic Company” it hired an electrical engineer zippers (with teeth that are individual Gideon Sundback in 1906 who quickly pieces of metal), plastic-molded zippers took position of a head designer who in (identical to metallic zippers, with teeth 1913 had designed the modern zipper. that are plastic), open-ended zippers He increased the number of teeth per (which ends are not connected with length, made both sides to have teeth each other, slider is on one end of one in the same shape. He also invented the side and are closed when the end of manufacturing machine that made the the other side off the zipper is placed in new device that was called “Separable the slider and slider pulled) and closed- Fastener”. B. F. Goodrich Company ended zippers (which have one or the name device “zipper” in 1923. First use both sides closed). for zippers was for closing boots and

10 History of Indigo Blue of Blue Jeans Indigo is a type of blue dye that is cosmetics. There are tablets from 7th generally used for coloring of cotton century BC Mesopotamia that tell about yarn that is used for production of denim coloring of the wool. In the Middle Ages cloth for blue jeans. Indigo is also used indigo becomes rare because heavy for dyeing wool and silk. Indigo was a duties imposed by Persian, Levantine, natural dye which was extracted from and Greek merchants. Instead of it plants but now it is synthetic. people used woad, a dye made from Indigo was produced from many plants the plant “Isatis tinctoria” that was throughout the history but the most chemically identical to the indigo. When, famous indigo dye was produced from in the second half of the 15th century, the plants of the genus Indigofera. One Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama of those plants is Indigofera tinctoria discovered a sea way to India that which is native to India which was the opened trade route to India, the Spice earliest major center for production Islands, China, and Japan. After that and processing of indigo dye. From use of indigo rises in Europe. Portugal, there it arrived to Ancient Greece the Netherlands, and England were and Rome where it was considered a major importers of indigo for Europe. luxury product. Other Asian countries European powers planted indigo like China, Japan and South East Asian plantations in their tropical colonies. nations also used indigo for centuries Biggest plantations were in Jamaica, but India is considered oldest center Virgin Islands and South Carolina and of indigo dyeing. Even its name points labor on these plantations were African that. Greek word for the dye, indikón - and African-American slaves. Easily means Indian. Romans changed that to obtainable indigo threatened local indicum. After that term passed through woad industry so France and Germany Italian dialect and then into English as outlawed imported indigo in the 16th the word “indigo”. That shows that other century. Natural indigo was used until parts of the ancient world got their the invention of synthetic indigo. indigo from India. Romans used indigo painting and for medicinal and and as

11 Natural indigo in India was made Indigo mass is then boiled, filtered and like this: cut plant is tied and placed pressed to be dry as much as possible. in the vats made of brick lined with Final product is a dry mass cut into cement. Plants are then covered with cubes. clear fresh water and left to steep until The first synthetic indigo dye was made fermentation ends, usually 10 to 15 by German chemist Adolf von Baeyer hours. Liquor that is yellow in color and in 1878 but synthesis of indigo those first is a result of fermentation is moved into tries was impractical. Experimenting beaters where it is treated with wooden continued and first commercially oars or by machinery. Color of the mass practical synthetic indigo was made in changes into green, then blue and 1897. then into the indigo. Mass settles to the bottom of the vat and is then extracted.

12 Denim Production There is a long road from cotton to jeans, and every pair has to travel it. We will explain it here: Everything starts with ginning of cutting machines into pieces needed cotton. Cotton is picked from fields for desired designs of jeans. A pair of and processed and baled. Bales are blue jeans has some ten different pieces opened and separated into small tufts. from which they are sewn, like pockets, Then, after it is removed from tightly leg panels, waistband and belt loops. packed bales and inspected, cotton Pieces are sewn on the assembly line goes, by means of by air suction, to of industrial human-operated sewing carding. It goes to the machine with machines where each place on the bent wire brushes called cards. They assembly line is assigned a specific are doing cleaning from foreign matter, function and does one job, and all the disentangling, straightening, and pieces are sewn into a pair of jeans. gathering the cotton threads into slivers. Jeans are then prewashed or stone- Those slivers go to spinning machines washed if needed. that twist and stretch the cotton slivers forming yarn from them. Some of that Denim Production yarn is dyed with chemically synthesized indigo dye few times so the colour would last longer. After dyeing yarn is “slashed”. It is coated with sizing (a type of starchy substance) which makes the threads stronger and stiffer. The dyed and white yarn is then woven on large shuttle-less looms. Blue threads that form the warp are packed closer together than the white ones, which form the weft, so the resulting cloth is blue. Cloth of this type is called “denim”. After it is woven, denim is ready for so-called finishing which means it is brushed to remove loose threads and lint, skewed which prevents it from twisting and preshrunk. Denim cloth is then stacked 100 layers thick and cut with high speed

14 Prewashing is done in industrial have 3% of elastane which makes them detergent and makes denim softer. stretchy. Rivets are made of copper, Stone-washing gives faded look. It can while the zippers, snaps, and buttons be done with smaller or bigger stones. are usually steel. Labels are made Smaller stones fade jeans more evenly out of cloth, leather or plastic, and while bigger give more uneven texture embroidered with cotton thread. and lines. Denim can also be sprayed with sand or chemicals during the wash process to create a worn-out appearance. A finished pair of jeans is then pressed in large pressing machines that press whole pants at once. After those jeans are boxed according to style, colour, and size and sent to the warehouse. From warehouse boxes of jeans are sent to stores. By-products of manufacturing are treated according to their biodegradability. Biodegradable ones can be dumped into nature while those that are not (like starch and dye) must be processed in compliance with all relevant government regulations. Blue Jeans are usually made out of 100 percent cotton, but there are types of blue jeans that have synthetic in them. One of those types is stretch jeans which

15 Selvedge denim The word ‘selvedge’ relates to the ‘self-edge’ of fabric. Selvedge is woven so the fabric’s ‘edge’ can be used in garment construction. In regards to jean construction, using the outer edge of the denim (the self-edge), makes a jean a ‘selvedge’ denim jean.

16 Origins of Selvedge Denim Selvedge denim is woven using old- compared to denim woven on modern fashioned denim-weaving techniques; looms. These variations make the denim most authentically woven on old looms. visually unique and highly desirable. See finished selvedge jeans. Selvedge Denim mills that have committed to looms were popular in denim weaving the production of selvedge denim until the mid-to-late 1900’s. US denim understand and value the nuance and mills began modernizing their machinery history of denim. With their advanced to speed production as demand for knowledge comes a desire, as well as denim grew world-wide. For these mills, a self-imposed responsibility to make a that were focused more and more superior product. For these mills, yarn on increasing output, the use of old quality, dyeing techniques, quality selvedge looms became unwanted, control, design and innovation take making the looms obsolete due to their heightened priority as compared to mills slower and less consistent production. focused on commodity, high-volume However, today, selvedge denim has production. The result is an undeniable become more desirable than non- increase of the overall quality of selvedge for two reasons: the nuance of selvedge. the denim weaving technique itself and the commitment to quality from the mills producing selvedge denim. Japanese mills are the unquestionable leaders in selvedge denim production, nowadays. Selvedge tends to have a tighter, denser weave than non-selvedge. The higher density gives the denim a sturdier hand. The use of the older selvedge loom technology also creates variations on the denim surface (due to inconsistencies in the weaving process)

17 Constructing a Selvedge Jean The above picture shows how to place a jean pattern onto selvedge denim before cutting. This clarifies the use of “self-edge.” Selvedge is narrower than non-selvedge. Fully using the “self-edges” minimizes fabric waste.

This illustrates the most common identifier of a selvedge jean.

Non-selvedge jeans require a cleaning stitch to keep the out seam from unravelling.

18 Selvedge denim is not the same as raw denim. Raw denim has never been washed. Therefore, all denim, selvedge or non-selvedge, is raw when it comes out of the loom. Washed denim is no longer raw. There may be many questions concerning the differences between selvedge and non-selvedge denim. One is not superior to the other in terms of quality and longevity. Moreover, the cotton and the dyeing processes used for selvedge are not necessarily different than those used for non-selvedge. In question of comfort, non-selvedge may offer somewhat more flexibility in fabric. However, selvedge is undeniably more desirable and attractive, and the Todd Shelton brand recommends highly and Anatomy of Denim truly the purchase of selvedge jeans.

19 Anatomy of Denim Fabrications

21 Fabrications Cotton Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that lowered the cost of production that grows in a boll, or protective case, led to its widespread use, and it is the around the seeds of the cotton plants most widely used natural fiber cloth in of the genus Gossypium in the mallow clothing today. family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost Current estimates for world production pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, are about 25 million tonnes or 110 million the cotton bolls will tend to increase the bales annually, accounting for 2.5% of dispersal of the seeds. the world’s arable land. China is the The plant is a shrub native to tropical world’s largest producer of cotton, and subtropical regions around the but most of this is used domestically. world, including the Americas, Africa, The United States has been the largest and India. The greatest diversity of exporter for many years. In the United wild cotton species is found in Mexico, States, cotton is usually measured in followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton bales, which measure approximately was independently domesticated in the 0.48 cubic meters (17 cubic feet) and Old and New Worlds. weigh 226.8 kilograms (500 pounds). The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric dated from 5000 BC have been excavated in Mexico and between 6000 BC and 5000 BC in the Indus Valley Civilization. Although cultivated since antiquity, it was the invention of the cotton gin that Elastane Spandex, Lycra or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is stronger and more durable than natural rubber. It is a polyester- polyurethane copolymer that was invented in 1958 by chemist Joseph Shivers at DuPont’s Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro, Virginia. When introduced in 1962, it revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry.

23 Tencell/Lyocell Lyocell is a form of rayon which consists the TENCEL® division with other fibre of cellulose fibre made from dissolving divisions under the Acordis banner, pulp (bleached wood pulp) using dry prior to selling them off to private equity jet-wet spinning. It was developed (CVC Partners). However the structure beginning in 1972 by a team at the now of Lyocell isn’t very apparent online defunct American Enka fibers facility at (SM). In 2004 CVC sold the TENCEL® Enka, North Carolina. This development division to Lenzing AG, who combined it was recognised by the American with their “Lenzing Lyocell” business but Association of Textile Chemists and maintained the brand name TENCEL®. Colorists (AATCC) in 2003 by the As of 2013, Lenzing’s TENCEL® brand is awarding of their Henry E. Millson Award perhaps the most widely known lyocell for Invention. The operating name for fiber producer throughout the world. the fibre inside the Enka Organization was “Newcell”, and the development was carried through pilot plant scale before the work was halted. The fibre was developed further as TENCEL® in the 1980s by Courtaulds Fibres in Coventry, UK and at the Grimsby, UK pilot plant. The process was first commercialised at Courtaulds rayon factories at Mobile, Alabama (1990) and at the Grimsby plant (1998). In 1998 Courtaulds was acquired by Akzo Nobel, who combined

24 Our Brands Our Brands

26 Paige Adams-Geller: Passionate about creating clothing that reflects and celebrates a life lived to the fullest, Paige Adams-Geller’s vibrant entrepreneurial spirit and convention-breaking ways continue to inspire and empower. After graduating from USC, the former Miss California became a fashion industry muse, transitioning from modeling to a career behind the seams. For over 10 years Adams-Geller was the denim industry’s most sought after fit model, working with the market’s top premium denim designers. As the only female founder in premium denim, Paige Adams-Geller shook up the industry when she launched her namesake collection in 2004. With a commitment to quality and a passion for creating pieces you will live in, Adams-Geller’s designs are now sold at fine retailers nationwide from NET A PORTER to Calypso St. Barth, Shopbop to Printemps.

At PAIGE, we believe that every choice Our brand first launched in February we’ve ever made-the big ones, the 2005 in high-end retailers including small ones, the right or the wrong-has Intermix, Ron Herman, Bergdorf led us to this moment. We believe that Goodman and Harvey Nichols. Paige’s the best story you can make and share designs became an instant obsession of is the one of your own life, and we are consumers, celebrities, and prominent passionate about designing pieces that fashion editors. Quickly, we unveiled our reflect and celebrate it. men’s, petites and maternity ranges - all From the beginning, our founder & created with the same commitment to creative director Paige Adams-Geller the craft. embraced every moment, aiming We only partner with the best wash- to inspire and empower as her story houses in the country, which happen evolved. Her journey began in Los to be in our hometown of Los Angeles. Angeles, where her entrepreneurial spirit Every style we create is wear-tested, took her from working as one of the top and tested again. We are completely fit models in the industry to launching obsessed with designing pieces you’ll her namesake collection in 2004. Today, live in-jeans that go from morning to she sits at the helm of PAIGE as the only moonlight; the perfect pair that works female founder in the denim industry, like a charm, always; pieces to help you continuing to challenge convention stand tall in what you’re wearing, and and infuse her colourful spirit and take you exactly where you want to go. chic sensibility to every collection she designs.

27 NORMANDIE FEDERAL • Paige Denim stretch-denim jeans • Paige Denim stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, straight, mid-rise, belt loops, • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, contrast five pockets, subtle faded wash, stitching, belt loops, five pockets, branded hardware, branded branded hardware, branded leather patch at back waistband, leather patch at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, brand v-shaped yoke at back, brand signature stitching detail at back signature stitching detail at back pockets pocket • 54% rayon, 23% cotton, 22% • 54% rayon, 23% cotton, 22% polyester, 1% elastane polyester, 1% elastane • Machine wash • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 16” opening 14”

LENNOX CROFT • Paige Denim stretch-denim jeans • Paige Denim stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front zip-fly fastening at front • Skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, five • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, pockets, branded hardware, five pockets, branded hardware, branded leather patch at back branded leather patch at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back • 54% rayon, 23% cotton, 22% • 54% rayon, 23% cotton, 22% polyester, 1% spandex polyester, 1% elastane • Machine wash • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 30.5”, leg • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 13” opening 14”

28 29 J Brand set out to create timeless, with a masculine sensibility.In spring classic and sophisticated jeans with 2012, J Brand introduced a ready-to- an emphasis on fit and the inspiration wear collection designed to pair back to make a woman look and feel to denim with luxurious contrasting beautiful in her jeans. Since the launch fabrics while continuing the simplistic in 2004, J Brand has achieved a winning attention to detail and sensibility of the combination of style and comfort, brand. Remaining authentic and true to with a vision to create a jean that fit so the customer while delivering inventive perfectly it would follow the contours of designs, J Brand continues to be an the body.With the introduction of the industry leader in the fashion world. The dark-washed skinny jean, J Brand was breadth of the brand also includes past the first company to drive the skinny collaborations with such designers as: jean trend with global distribution. J Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane and Brand also introduced stand out trends Simone Rocha.J Brand is a California- like the Love Story flare and the Houlihan based company, featured in specialty cargo pant. In fall 2008, a men’s line was stores and luxury retailers in more than introduced embodying modern classics 25 countries worldwide.

30 TYLER MICK • J Brand stretch-denim jeans • J Brand stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button fastening with • Exposed button fastening with concealed zip-fly at front concealed zip-fly at front • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, belt loops, • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, faded five pockets, branded • wash and whiskering, branded • hardware, v-shaped yoke at back hardware, v-shaped yoke at back • 92% cotton, 6% elastomultiester, 2% • 92% cotton, 6% elastomultiester, 2% elastane elastane • Machine wash • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 12” opening 14”

KANE • J Brand stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button fastening with concealed zip-fly at front • Regular-fit, straight, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, • contrast stitching, branded hardware, v-shaped yoke at back • 98% cotton, 2% elastane • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 16”

31 32 With over 25 years of experience in the denim industry, founder Jerome Dahan, is a true visionary and the first to bring the concept of luxury designer denim to the global marketplace. The company designs, markets and produces Citizens of Humanity, Goldsign and AGoldE brands in a full vertical facility to ensure the product is unparalleled. Citizens of Humanity is distributed in more than 35 countries including high-end specialty boutiques such as Brown’s, 10 Corso Como, Joseph, Aritzia, Club Monaco and Anthropologie; online at Shopbop.com, Moda Operandi, The Dreslyn, and MyTheresa.com as well as in luxury department stores Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, and Nordstrom.

Jerome Dahan Jerome Dahan grew up in Paris and a quarter of a century working in the came of age in Montreal, where in industry, Dahan has emerged as a true the mid ‘70s, he designed his first pair visionary. “ CITIZENS OF HUMANITY is of jeans, which featured embroidered the ultimate expression and realization back pockets- an innovation in the of what a denim company can be,” early days of designer denim. In the he says. “It is fueled by knowledge, early 1980s, he migrated to Los Angeles, creativity and a love for denim; an helping establish it as a world capital enduring symbol of the American for the design and manufacturing of landscape which has captured the premium blue jeans. imagination of the world.” Dahan’s passion for denim as both a material and an industry has led to a string of high-profile design and brand- building positions at Guess and Lucky Jeans. As a founder of Seven For All Mankind, he brought the concept of luxury denim to the U.S. market and built a 21st century global brand. After

33 BOWERY SLIM NOAH • Citizens of Humanity Bowery slim-fit • Citizens of Humanity stretch-denim mid-rise jeans jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastenings zip-fly fastening at front • Silm-fit, straight, mid-rise, faded • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, wash and whiskering, belt loops, five pockets, brand label • five pockets, branded tab at front • at front waistband, branded pocket, silver-toned branded hardware, hardware, • branded leather patch at back • branded leather patch at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back • 98% cotton, 2% elastane • 98% cotton, 2% polyurethane • Machine wash • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • True to size opening 14” • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 14”

GAGE • Citizens of Humanity stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, brand label at front waistband, branded hardware, branded leather patch at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back • 94% cotton, 4% elastomultiester, 2% elastane • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 11”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 15”

34 35 For All Mankind (often referred to simply worked in the apparel industry for years, as Seven, Seven Jeans or 7FAM) is an created the company in response American denim brand founded by to what they saw as a void in the Michael Glasser, Peter Koral, and Jerome contemporary denim market. Focusing Dahan in 2000 and headquartered in on female denim wearers, it has been Vernon, California. It was owned by the stated the company was successful VF Corporation from 2007 to 2016. because of the fit, fabrics, washes, 7 for All Mankind began by designing attention to detail, and the logo on women’s jeans. A men’s jeans line was the product’s back pockets. 7 For All introduced in fall 2002, and its Children Mankind’s proximity to Los Angeles Denim Collection for boys and girls in fall makes the brand popular with celebrities 2005. 7 for All Mankind also produces and urban young adults. Prince Harry other clothing items such as skirts, has also been photographed in the shorts, and denim jackets. The brand jeans. is sold in over 80 countries including Europe, Canada, and Japan. Dahan and Glasser, denim designers who had

36 STANDARD THE STRAIGHT • 7 For All Mankind stretch-denim • 7 For All Mankind stretch-denim jeans jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front button-fly fastening at front • Regular-fit, tapered, mid-rise, • Standard-fit, regular leg, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, branded belt loops, five pockets, hardware, • branded hardware, faded wash • faded wash and whiskering, double and all-over distressed, contrast stitching, • branding at back, signature • branded suede patch at back, stitching at back pockets, v-shaped v-shaped yoke at back yoke at back • 98% cotton, 2% elastane • 48% modal, 46% cotton, 4% • Machine wash polyester, 2% elastane • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • Machine wash opening 14” • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 16”

SLIMMY • 7 For All Mankind stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, faded wash and whiskering, • branded hardware, branding at back, v-shaped yoke at back • 92% cotton, 6% elastomultiester, 2% elastane • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 14”

37 CHAD RONNIE • 7 For All Mankind stretch-denim • 7 For All Mankind stretch-denim jeans jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed button-fly fastening at front zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, belt loops, • Skinny-fit, mid-rise, belt loops, five five pockets, branded hardware, pockets, branded hardware, • faded-wash and whiskering, faded wash and all-over distressed, branding at back, branding at back, signature • signature stitching at back pockets, stitching at back pockets, v-shaped v-shaped yoke at back yoke at back • 89% cotton, 11% elastomultiester • 66% cotton, 17% lyocell, 15% • Machine wash polyester, 2% elastane • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • Machine wash opening 14” • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 33”, leg opening 14”

38 39 Nudie Jeans is a Swedish clothing figures are likely to have increased brand originating in Gothenburg and massively during the past 3 years as the a subsidiary of Svenska Jeans AB, brand has become more popular (in founded in 2001 by Maria Erixon, a 2004, Nudie’s net income increased by former employee and AD of Lee Europe 70% ). and Swedish designer JC. Erion states Nudie specialises in raw and prewashed that she is drawn to designing jeans as denim jeans, but the company’s “the more you wear and repair jeans, collection includes many other items of the more character they have. Denim casual clothing & accessories. In 2003, is a living fabric that changes over time denim jeans comprised 70% of their – and they are for everyone, of all ages total sales. and genders”. As of 2003, the company had 12 employees, revenue of 93 million Swedish kronor and a net income of 13.6 million kronor. 70% of their revenue was generated outside of Sweden.These

40 LEAN DEAN LONG JOHN • Nudie Jeans stretch-denim jeans • Nudie Jeans stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastenings at front zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, contrast stitching, five pockets, branded hardware, branded hardware, branded branded leather patch at back leather patch at back yoke, waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, v-shaped yoke at back, branded brand label at back pocket label at back pocket, brand • 98% cotton, 2% elastane signature stitching detail at back • Machine wash pockets • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • 99% organic cotton, 1% elastane opening 13” • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 9”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 13”

BRUTE KNUT • Nudie Jeans stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastenings at front • Regular-fit, tapered, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, fading and whiskering, contrast stitching, branded hardware, branded badge at back yoke, v-shaped yoke at back, signature stitching at back pockets • 98% organic cotton, 2% elastane • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 11”, inside leg 30”, leg opening 14”

41 42 Based on the concept of ‘Vintage denim started as a teenager, becoming Revision’, Neuw denim was founded more and more deeply rooted as in 2009. Originally named after he moved to Stockholm and started Nieuwlandstraat, the street in Brussels playing in bands as well as working where it all began, this mouthful was within a denim store. shortened down to Neuw, creating Getting his first real designer/ the brand we know and love today. development role with Lee Europe, his The brand has enjoyed relatively rapid buying and denim hoarding expanded success in the denim world, being able rapidly. His first pair of Lee 101’s from to add a number of high profile stockists the 1950’s became the first pair of jeans to the books in a very short time period. he learnt to tailor denim fits upon, with A lot of this success is due to the an old friend called Raymond. Now passion and enthusiasm for denim constantly customising, staining, altering demonstrated on a daily basis by and repairing the items within his own designer and founder, Par Lundqvist. collection – each pair of NEUW jeans is Boasting an impressive vintage denim based upon and inspired by elements collection of over 2500 pairs, some even of these vintage jeans, adding a story dating as far back as the late 1800’s, and a substance to everything they do. Par is clearly driven by the concept of Vintage Revision. His obsession with

43 LOU HELL • Neuw stretch-cotton jeans • Neuw stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed button-fly fastening at front button-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, straight, mid-rise, tapered, • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, belt loops, five pockets, fading five pockets, branded hardware, and whiskering at front and back, branded suede patch at back distressed, v-shaped yoke at back, waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, branded suede label at back brand stitching detail at back waistband pocket • 95% cotton, 4% polyester, 1% • 99% cotton, 1% elastane elastane • Machine wash • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 31”, leg • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 12” opening 12”

IGGY • Neuw stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed zip fly fastening at front • Mid-rise, skinny-fit, five pockets, all-over distressed, faded wash, branded silver-toned metal hardware, contrast stitching with detailing at crotch, hardware loop at belt loop, branded leather patch at back waistband, v-shaped yoke • 98% cotton, 2% elastane • Machine wash • True to size • Size 23: Rise 9”, inner leg 32”, leg opening 12”

44 45 THE TRUE STORY: THE STITCH THAT STARTED IT ALL In 2002, True Religion emerged onto the to stand out. Our specialty denim fits, Los Angeles denim scene by blowing washes & treatments, were all designed up the construction of the classic five- with amplified details to grab attention pocket jean. Industry-standard sewing at every turn. Our iconic horseshoe was machines couldn’t handle our designs, born from the silhouette of a Buddha’s so we broke them apart and rebuilt smile, and our hardware was inspired them to produce our one-of-a-kind by the romance of denim’s 140-year vision. With its five-needle thread at history. We have always been fashion two-stitch-per-inch process, our Super T forward, even from behind. stitch was instantly recognized for style Our styles inherit the swagger of their that was unlike any other denim brand given name. The Joey. The Ricky. The in the world. Halle. However, it’s the Fearless Style True Religion’s designs soon caught the Leaders who rock True Religion with attention of the world’s most iconic style a Be So Bold attitude that ignite the leaders, and demand for our denim world with bold statements of creative grew rapidly. Everything from there on self-expression. We became famous out was committed to be bigger, better, because we were like no one before and bolder than the rest. us, and what began with a stitch now As our stitching evolved, True Religion leads to a future of innovative fashion became synonymous with quality designed by the fearless, for the fearless. craftsmanship and bold style designed

46 ROCKO RICKY • True Religion stretch-denim jeans • True Religion stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, • Relaxed-fit, straight, mid-rise, rope five pockets, faded wash and stitching detailing, belt loops, whiskering, paint splatter detailing, five pockets, branded hardware, branded hardware, branded branded leather patch at back leather patch at back waistband, waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, v-shaped yoke at back, signature signature brand stitching at back brand stitching at back pockets pockets • 98% cotton, 2% elastane • 79% cotton, 19% rayon, 2% elastane • Machine wash • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 34”, leg • Size 32: Rise, 10”, inside leg 34”, leg opening 14” opening 16”

GENO • True Religion stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed button-fly fastening at front • Straight, mid-rise, belt loops, five pockets, branded leather patch at back waistband, signature stitching at back pocket • 98% cotton, 2% elastane • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 17”, inside leg 34”, leg opening 7”

47 48 Jeans are more than just a piece of increasing control of the distribution clothing. They do not only last for a network. Innovative flair, characteristic season. Jeans blend with the body, Italian design and the superb quality of are moulded by the body into an its products, have always been three indissoluble whole, becoming one cornerstones of Fashion Box S.p.A.’s with the wearer in a sublime symbiosis. philosophy. In addition to distinctive skill Jeans reflect just who we are – slipped and expertise, this has made the Italian on in seconds, shaped over the years group a major player in international as the fabric adapts to and enhances denim styling and production.The every single curve and fold.This is why Fashion Box combination of vast they’re so sexy. This is why they’re still so experience and advanced know- rebellious, still a symbol of dressing and how, alongside an extensive search thinking outside the box. Above all, this for distinctive style using sophisticated is what makes them so unique. No two techniques, constitutes the intrinsic pairs are ever the same, just as no two value of its garments, and thus, much people are ever the same. Yet there’s of the Group’s investment is focused nothing haute couture or high class on stylistic and technological research about jeans. They’re democratic. into materials.Trading under the brands THE GROUP REPLAY, REPLAY&SONS, and WE ARE Established in 1981 and based in the REPLAY, the Italian group creates, hilltop town of Asolo (Treviso), a place promotes and distributes casual wear, of worldwide renown for creativity, accessories and footwear for men, Fashion Box S.P.A has been the synonym women and children. Brand extension for the highest standards in the denim projects, including eyewear and the sector for more than 30 years.Since its Replay Perfume lines, are entrusted to foundation, Fashion Box has developed, licence partners. and stuck to, its key strategy: product vision, expansion into new markets and

49 ANBASS HYPER FREE • Replay Anbass Hyperflex slim-fit • Replay stretch-denim jeans skinny jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed zip-fly fastening at front zip-fly fastening at front • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, drawstring • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, faded at waist, faded wash, belt loops, wash and whiskering, belt loops, five pockets, branding at front five pockets, branding at front pocket, branded hardware, pocket, branded hardware, branded leather patch at back branded leather patch at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, embroidered brand initial at back embroidered brand initial at back pocket, signature stitching at back pocket, signature stitching at back pockets pockets • 58% cotton, 40% nylon, 2% elastane • 85% cotton, 10% polyester, 5% • Machine wash elastane • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • Machine wash opening 14” • Size 32: Rise 10.5”, inside leg 33”, leg opening 13”

JOHN DRILL HYPERFLEX • Replay stretch-denim jeans • Replay Anbass Hyperflex slim-fit • Exposed button fastening with skinny jeans concealed zip-fly at front • Exposed button and concealed • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, belt loops, zip-fly fastening at front five pockets, branding at front • Slim-fit, skinny, mid-rise, faded and back pocket, faded wash wash and whiskering, belt loops, and whiskering, contrast stitching, five pockets, branding at front branded hardware, branded pocket, branded hardware, leather patch at back waistband, branded leather patch at back v-shaped yoke at back waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, • 92% cotton, 6% elastomultiester, 2% embroidered brand initial at back elastane pocket, signature stitching at back • Machine wash pockets • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • 85% cotton, 10% polyester, 5% opening 13” elastane • Machine wash • Size 32: Rise 10.5”, inside leg 33”, leg opening 13”

50 51 Levi Strauss & Co. is a privately owned American clothing company known worldwide for its Levi’s brand of denim jeans. It was founded in May 1853 when Levi Strauss came from Buttenheim, Bavaria, to San Francisco, California to open a west coast branch of his brothers’ New York dry goods business. The company’s corporate headquarters is located in the Levi’s Plaza in San Francisco.

Levi Strauss started the business at the Strauss suggesting that they go into 90 Sacramento Street address in San business together. After Levi accepted Francisco. He next moved the location Jacob’s offer, on May 20, 1873, the two to 62 Sacramento Street then 63 & men received U.S. Patent 139,121 from 65 Sacramento Street. Jacob Davis, the United States Patent and Trademark a Latvian Jewish immigrant, was a Office. The patented rivet was later Reno, Nevada tailor who frequently incorporated into the company’s jean purchased bolts of cloth made design and advertisements. Contrary from denim from Levi Strauss & Co.’s to an advertising campaign suggesting wholesale house. After one of Davis’ that Levi Strauss sold his first jeans to customers kept purchasing cloth to gold miners during the California Gold reinforce torn pants, he had an idea to Rush (which peaked in 1849), the use copper rivets to reinforce the points manufacturing of denim overalls only of strain, such as on the pocket corners began in the 1870s. The company and at the base of the button fly. Davis created their first pair of Levis 501 Jeans did not have the required money to in the 1890s. purchase a patent, so he wrote to

52 501 511 • Levi’s denim jeans • Levi’s stretch-denim jeans • Exposed button and concealed • Exposed button and concealed button-fly fastening at front zip-fly fastenings at front • Regular-fit, straight, mid-rise, • Slim-fit, tapered, mid-rise, faded contrast stitching, belt loops, five wash and whiskering, contrast pockets, branded hardware, stitching, belt loops, five pockets, branded leather patch at back branded hardware, branded waistband, v-shaped yoke at back, leather patch at back waistband, brand tab at back pocket v-shaped yoke at back, branded • 100% cotton tab at back pocket • Machine wash • 99% cotton, 1% elastane • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg • Machine wash opening 16” • Size 32: Rise 10”, inside leg 32”, leg opening 14”

53 Content Jake Sharp Creative Input Hana Alexander Design PinkGinger Studios