Sheldon and Four Animal Outfits by Ruthless Knitting Pattern Note The

Sheldon and Four Animal Outfits By Ruthless Knitting

Pattern Note The Sheldon pattern, knit in Knit Picks Shine Sport, was originally published on Knitty in Winter 2006 and is still available as a free pattern from Knitty:

http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTsheldon.html

In 2008, I created a new version of the Sheldon pattern for Knit Picks Shine Worsted, called “Super Sheldon,” as well as four animal outfits for Sheldon to wear. The four animal outfit patterns can be knit in Shine Worsted or Shine Sport to fit your Sheldon. These patterns were available from Knit Picks through 2011.

This pattern includes the original Super Sheldon directions, as well as all four the animal outfit patterns in their original format. I have substituted the most recent Knit Picks Shine color names for the ones used in the 2008 pattern.

If you have questions, corrections, or need help, please contact Ruth at [email protected].

Super Sheldon by Ruthless Knitting

Finished Size: Width approx. 9" from paw to paw Length approx. 10.5"

Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Worsted (60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 75 yd/50g): Macaw (MC), 2 balls; Green Apple (CC), 1 ball.

Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm): double-pointed needles; straight needles (optional) If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle Crochet hook Hanging stitch marker (optional) 2 9mm black acrylic safety eyes with plastic washers Polyester stuffing or cotton batting

Gauge 20 sts / 26 rows = 4" in St st

Notes Achieving the recommended gauge is not crucial for this project. However, it is desirable to knit the pieces—particularly the body—tightly enough that the stuffing is not visible when the knitted fabric is slightly stretched. This will require you to get somewhere in the neighborhood of the given gauge, even if this means going up or down a needle size or two.

The head and body are knit in one piece on DPNs, with 4 limbs knit separately and sewn on. The upper shell is knit in 2 pieces, and then a third panel is worked separately with holes for the limbs and is attached to the shell top with an I-Cord edging.

Because the shell must stretch over the turtle's body and attach to the panel underneath, it is important not to overstuff the shell. Light padding is sufficient to give the desired shape.

You may wish to mark the beg of each round with a hanging stitch marker or a safety pin.

Kfb: Knit into front and back of next st by knitting through the front loop, then knitting through the back loop, then slipping st off the L needle.

Pfb: Purl into front and back of next st by purling through the front loop, then purling through the back loop, then slipping st off the L needle.

Directions Body The body is knit from the tail to the head.

Using MC and DPNs, CO 6 stitches. Divide sts evenly bet 3 needles. Pm if desired and join to beg working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: Kfb in each st. 12 sts. Round 2: K all sts. Round 3: (Kfb, k1) twice, kfb twice, (k1, kfb) twice, k2. 18 sts. Round 4: K all sts. Round 5: (Kfb, k2) 6 times. 24 sts. Rounds 6-9: K all sts. Round 10: (Kfb, k3) twice, kfb, k4, (kfb, k3) twice, kfb, k2. 30 sts. Round 11: K all sts. Round 12: (Kfb, k4) twice, kfb, k6, (kfb, k4) twice, kfb, k2. 36 sts. Round 13: K all sts. Round 14: (Kfb, k5) twice, kfb, k8, (kfb, k5) twice, kfb, k2. 42 sts. Rounds 15-18: K all sts. Round 19: K8, ssk, k20, k2tog, k10. 40 sts. Even-numbered rounds 20-38: K all sts. Round 21: K8, ssk, k18, k2tog, k10. 38 sts. Round 23: K8, ssk, k16, k2tog, k10. 36 sts. Round 25: K8, ssk, k14, k2tog, k10. 34 sts. Round 27: K8, ssk, k12, k2tog, k10. 32 sts. Round 29: K8, ssk, k10, k2tog, k10. 30 sts. Round 31: K8, ssk, k8, k2tog, k10. 28 sts. Round 33: K8, ssk, k6, k2tog, k10. 26 sts. Round 35: K2tog, k6, ssk, k4, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2. 22 sts. Round 37: K2tog, k5, ssk, k2, k2tog, k5, ssk, k2. 18 sts. Round 39: K2tog, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2. 14 sts. Rounds 40-42: K all sts. Round 43: Kfb, k2, kfb, k1, (kfb) twice, k1, (kfb, k2) twice. 20 sts. Even-numbered rounds 44–54: K all sts. Round 45: Kfb, k3, (kfb, k2) 3 times, kfb, k3, kfb, k2. 26 sts. Round 47: (Kfb, k4, kfb, k3) twice, kfb, k4, kfb, k2. 32 sts. Round 49: Kfb, k5, kfb, k16, kfb, k5, kfb, k2. 36 sts. Round 51: Kfb, k6, kfb, k18, kfb, k6, kfb, k2. 40 sts. Round 53: Kfb, k7, kfb, k20, kfb, k7, kfb, k2. 44 sts. Round 55: Kfb, k8, kfb, k22, kfb, k8, kfb, k2. 48 sts. Rounds 56–58: K all sts. Round 59: K2tog, k8, ssk, k22, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2. 44 sts. Even-numbered rounds 60–68. K all sts. Round 61: K2tog, k7, ssk, k20, k2tog, k7, ssk, k2. 40 sts. Round 63: K2tog, k6, ssk, k18, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2. 36 sts. Round 65: K2tog, k5, ssk, k16, k2tog, k5, ssk, k2. 32 sts. Round 67: K2tog, k4, ssk, k3, ssk, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2. 26 sts. Round 69: K2tog, k3, ssk, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2. 20 sts. Round 70: K all sts.

Cut off all but 1-2" of the CO tail and pull the yarn end into the body with the crochet hook. Attach safety eyes to head, using diagram as a placement guide, and stuff the body to desired firmness to almost the top of the head. Take care to stuff the neck particularly firmly so that the head does not flop around.

Round 71: K2tog, k2, ssk, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2. 14 sts. Round 72: K all sts. Round 73: K2tog, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2. 10 sts. Round 74: K all sts. Round 75: K2tog, ssk, k2tog, ssk, k2. 6 sts.

Finish stuffing head to the top. Break yarn. Using yarn needle, thread yarn tail through all 6 sts, beg with first k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close, tie a knot near the opening, and pull tail into the body, emerging a few inches lower down. Tug on the tail to round off the "mouth," then cut off so that the end pulls back into the body.

Limbs (Make 4) Using MC and DPNs, CO 12 sts, leaving a tail at least 12" long. Divide sts evenly bet 3 needles. Pm if desired and join to beg working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Rounds 1-14: K all sts. Round 15: (Kfb, k5) twice. 14 sts. Rounds 16-20: K all sts. Round 21: (K2tog) 7 times.

Break yarn. Using yarn needle, thread yarn tail through all 7 sts, beg with first k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close. Make small knot, pull yarn to inside, and trim end.

Shell Top Note: When working the shell, the color not in use may be carried loosely up the side of the work, as it will not show once the turtle is completed.

Using MC and straight needles, CO 12 sts. Rows 1-2: K all sts. Row 3 (RS): Join CC. Kfb, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k1. 13 sts. Row 4 (WS): Pfb, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p2. 14 sts. Row 5: Kfb, k1, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k2. 15 sts. Row 6: Pfb, p1, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p3. 16 sts. Row 7: Kfb, k2, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k3. 17 sts. Row 8: Pfb, p2, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p4. 18 sts.

Switch to MC. Rows 9-10: Kfb, k to end. 20 sts when row 10 is complete.

Switch to CC. Row 11: Kfb, (sl 2, k6) twice, sl 2, k1. 21 sts. Row 12: Pfb, (sl 2, p6) twice, sl 2, p2. 22 sts. Row 13: Kfb, k1, (sl 2, k6) twice, sl 2, k2. 23 sts. Row 14: Pfb, p1, (sl 2, p6) twice, sl 2, p3. 24 sts. Row 15: Kfb, k2, (sl 2, k6) twice, sl 2, k3. 25 sts. Row 16: Pfb, p2, (sl 2, p6) twice, sl 2, p4. 26 sts.

Switch to MC. Rows 17-18: Kfb, k to end. 28 sts when row 18 is complete.

Switch to CC. Row 19: Kfb, (sl 2, k6) 3 times, sl 2, k1. 29 sts. Row 20: Pfb, (sl 2, p6) 3 times, sl 2, p2. 30 sts. Row 21: Kfb, k1, (sl 2, k6) 3 times, sl 2, k2. 31 sts. Row 22: Pfb, p1, (sl 2, p6) 3 times, sl 2, p3. 32 sts. Row 23: Kfb, k2, (sl 2, k6) 3 times, sl 2, k3. 33 sts. Row 24: Pfb, p2, (sl 2, p6) 3 times, sl 2, p4. 34 sts.

Switch to MC. Rows 25-26: Kfb, k to end. 36 sts when row 26 is complete.

Switch to CC. Row 27: K1, sl 2, (k6, sl 2) 4 times, k1. Row 28: P1, (sl 2, p6) 4 times, sl 2, p1. Rows 29-32: Repeat rows 27- 28 twice.

Switch to MC. Rows 33-34: K all sts.

Switch to CC. Row 35: K2tog, k3, sl 2, (k6, sl 2) 3 times, k5. 35 sts. Row 36: P2tog, p3, sl 2, (p6, sl 2) 3 times, p4. 34 sts. Row 37: K2tog, k2, sl 2 (k6, sl 2) 3 times, k4. 33 sts. Row 38: P2tog, p2, sl 2, (p6, sl 2) 3 times, p3. 32 sts. Row 39: K2tog, k1, sl 2, (k6, sl 2) 3 times, k3. 31 sts. Row 40: P2tog, p1, sl 2, (p6, sl 2) 3 times, p2. 30 sts.

Switch to MC. Rows 41-42: K2tog, k to end. 28 sts when row 42 is complete.

Switch to CC. Row 43: K2tog, k3, sl 2, (k6, sl 2) twice, k5. 27 sts. Row 44: P2tog, p3, sl 2, (p6, sl 2) twice, p4. 26 sts. Row 45: K2tog, k2, sl 2 (k6, sl 2) twice, k4. 25 sts. Row 46: P2tog, p2, sl 2, (p6, sl 2) twice, p3. 24 sts. Row 47: K2tog, k1, sl 2, (k6, sl 2) twice, k3. 23 sts. Row 48: P2tog, p1, sl 2, (p6, sl 2) twice, p2. 22 sts.

Switch to MC. Rows 49-50: K2tog, k to end. 20 sts when row 50 is complete.

Switch to CC. Row 51: K2tog, k3, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k5. 19 sts. Row 52: P2tog, p3, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p4. 18 sts. Row 53: K2tog, k2, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k4. 17 sts. Row 54: P2tog, p2, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p3. 16 sts. Row 55: K2tog, k1, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k3. 15 sts. Row 56: P2tog, p1, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p2. 14 sts.

Switch to MC. Rows 57-58: K2tog, k to end. 12 sts when row 58 is complete. Row 59: BO all sts. Break yarn and weave in ends on WS.

Shell Bottom Using CC and straight needles, CO 10 sts. Odd-numbered rows 1-21 (RS): K1, kfb, k to end. Even-numbered rows 2-20 (WS): P1, pfb, p to end. 31 sts when row 21 is complete.

Even-numbered rows 22-42 (WS): P1, p2tog, p to end. Odd-numbered rows 23-41 (RS): K1, k2tog, k to end. 10 sts when row 42 is complete.

Row 43 (RS): BO all sts.

Break yarn and weave in ends on WS. Using a length of CC yarn and yarn needle, and holding shell and shell bottom with WS together, attach shell bottom to shell top, centering shell bottom a few stitches in from the edge all the way around. Use any seaming method you like, as long as it is invisible on the RS and will not allow the stuffing to escape; this seam will not show. When seam is three-quarters complete, stuff the shell lightly. Complete seam, tie a small knot, break yarn, and hide ends using crochet hook or yarn needle.

Shell Attachment Panel Using MC and straight needles, CO 16 sts. Odd-numbered rows 1-9 (RS): K1, kfb, k to end. Even-numbered rows 2-8 (WS): P1, pfb, p to end. 25 sts when row 9 is complete.

Row 10: BO 6 sts, p to end. 19 sts. Row 11: BO 6 sts, k to end. 13 sts. Row 12: P all sts. Row 13: K all sts, CO 8 sts using backward loop method. 21 sts. Row 14: P all sts, CO 8 sts using backward loop method. 29 sts. Row 15: K all sts. Row 16: P1, pfb, p to end. 30 sts. Row 17: K1, kfb, k to end. 31 sts. Row 18: P1, pfb, p to end. 32 sts. Row 19: K1, k2tog, k to end. 31 sts. Row 20: P1, p2tog, p to end. 30 sts. Row 21: K1, k2tog, k to end. 29 sts. Row 22: BO 8 sts, p to end. 21 sts. Row 23: BO 8 sts, k to end. 13 sts. Row 24: P all sts. Row 25: K all sts, CO 6 sts using backward loop method. 19 sts. Row 26: P all sts, CO 6 sts using backward loop method. 25 sts. Row 27: K all sts. Even-numbered rows 28-36: P1, p2tog, p to end. Odd-numbered rows 29-35: K1, k2tog, k to end. 16 sts when row 36 is complete. Row 37: BO all sts.

Insert crochet hook into last st and work single crochet along edge of piece to the first leg hole; fold piece so that corners of leg hole meet, and cont to work single crochet around edge of piece, joining corners of remaining leg holes in the same way. You will have a little bowl-shaped piece of knitting with 4 leg holes.

Work a second round of single crochet, break yarn, draw through last st and pull tight. Weave in end on WS.

Finishing Construct Shell Using MC or CC and 2 DPNs, connect the shell to the attachment panel using a 5-st attached I-Cord as follows:

CO 5 sts. Slide sts to other end of DPN. Pulling yarn tightly across back of sts on needle, k4, sl 1. Line up shell and attachment panel with WS together, holding attachment panel facing you. Beg on the top left side of the attachment panel, P up and k 1 stitch through the edges of both pieces held together.

Note: The st you want on the attachment panel is the crocheted st directly above the last of the 16 bound-off sts. On the shell, you want to insert the needle into the MC edge st from the row that forms the base of the final row of "cells" on the shell, which is made up of 1 full cell and 2 partial cells. The I-Cord edging looks best if you pick up only the inside half of the st from both pieces rather than the entire st.

Pass the slipped st over the picked-up st.

*Slide sts to the other end of the DPN. Pulling yarn tight across the back, K4, sl 1. Pick up and knit next st from the joined pieces and pass slipped st over.* Repeat from * to *, working your way around the shell. Be sure to center the area bet the 2 limb openings on each side over the widest part of the shell, and the 16 bound-off sts along the bottom over the bottom row of cells (2 partial cells and 1 whole cell). This will require you to skip rows when picking up sts from the shell. When you have worked about two-thirds of the way around, insert the turtle body into the shell to check the fit, and determine how large the neck opening should be. When you reach the bottom of the final row of cells on the right side of the turtle directly across from where you began working I-Cord (or, if your turtle body is too large to accommodate such a small opening, when the neck opening is as small as it can be), cont I-Cord but pick up stitches through the shell only. Work to the point where you began, break yarn, thread needle and pull through all 4 sts. Tuck this end underneath the foundation of the I-Cord where they overlap and weave in ends underneath the edging, where they will be inconspicuous.

Attach Limbs Stuff the limbs, being sure to stuff the ends quite firmly and the tops more lightly. Sew the limbs to the body.

To do this, thread the yarn needle with the tail left from casting on. Position the limb against the body, using the diagram as a placement guide and checking placement against the fit of your turtle body inside the shell. Run the needle under the upside-down "V" of a stitch on the turtle body and then under a knitted "V" on the limb. Cont around until the limb is completely attached. You may need to use your crochet hook or needle to tighten or loosen the sts you have made in order to improve their appearance. Before finishing, recheck that the limb will fit through its opening properly when the turtle is inserted into the shell. Tie an inconspicuous knot with the remaining yarn, cut a 1" tail, and use the crochet hook or yarn needle to pull it into the body.

Insert Sheldon into his shell and admire your work!

Bee Shell by Ruthless Knitting

Size: This pattern is designed to fit Super Sheldon, but the same directions may be followed to produce a shell for the original Sheldon if sport weight yarn is used.

Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Worsted (60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 75 yd/50g): Coffee (MC), 1 ball; Dandelion (CC), 1 ball.

Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm): double-pointed needles If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle Hanging stitch marker (optional)

Gauge 20 sts / 26 rows = 4" in St st on US 6.

Notes This shell consists of inner and outer portions. The inner portion is knit from the bottom up to the "turtleneck." Sts are then picked up and the outer portion is worked downward toward the stinger.

Modified pick up and knit: A modified version of the pick up and knit technique is used to pick up stitches for the outer portion of the shell. Rather than pull the new stitch through from the back of the fabric, you should (1) use the needle to find the bar that lies within a knitted "V" (as you would to seam using mattress stitch), (2) poke the needle through the bar from bottom to top, keeping it on the right side of the knitted fabric, and (3) wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it back through. This technique allows you to pick up stitches from the right side of the fabric without bringing the yarn from the wrong side, which is necessary when you have to pick up stitches in the middle of a piece rather than along an edge.

Attaching legs: When it is time to attach a leg, place the 2 live leg stitches on a DPN with the purl side facing you and hold this needle in front of the working needle in your left hand. Put your working needle through both the first leg st and the next st on the working needle and knit them together. Repeat for the second leg stitch.

Increases: In this pattern, the abbreviation "m1," or "make 1," refers to making a st by creating a loop with the working yarn, twisting it, and placing it on the R needle. The abbreviations "m1R" and "m1L" are used to indicate different increases, as follows: To m1R, insert left needle into bar to the right of the next st from back to front and knit st normally. To m1L, insert left needle into bar to the right of the next st from front to back and knit st through the back loop. The abbreviation "kfb" refers to knitting into the front and back of the next stitch.

You may wish to mark the beg of each round with a hanging stitch marker or a safety pin.

Inner Portion With MC, leaving a 12" tail, CO 32 sts.

Divide sts over 4 DPNs, with 12 sts on needles 1 and 3 and 4 sts on needles 2 and 4. Join to knit in the round.

Odd-numbered rounds 1–7. K all sts. Round 2. (K12, m1R, k4, m1L) twice. 36 sts. Round 4. (K12, m1R, k6, m1L) twice. 40 sts. Round 6. (K12, m1R, k8, m1L) twice. 44 sts. Round 8. (K12, m1R, k10, m1L) twice. 48 sts. Rounds 9–28. K all sts.

Pause to turn your knitting inside out and use the cast-on tail to seam the bottom, centering the sets of 12 sts from needles 1 and 3 on the front and back, respectively. Use any seaming method you like; this seam will not show.

Round 29. (K12, ssk, k8, k2tog) twice. 44 sts. Even-numbered rounds 30–34. K all sts. Round 31. (K12, ssk, k6, k2tog) twice. 40 sts. Round 33. (K12, ssk, k4, k2tog) twice. 36 sts. Round 35. (K12, ssk, k2, k2tog) twice. 32 sts. Round 36. K all sts. Rounds 37–44. (K2, p2) around. BO loosely. Break yarn and weave in end on WS.

Legs (make 4) Make 3-st I-Cord legs as follows: using a DPN and leaving a tail at least 6" long, CO 3 sts. *Slide sts to opposite end of needle, pull yarn tightly across the back of the sts, and k3. Rep 11 more times. On the next row, k2tog, k1. Break yarn, leaving a tail at least 6" long, and place sts on a holder.

Outer Portion With "turtleneck" pointed toward you and using MC, work a modified pick up and knit over 40 sts in the first row below the ribbed portion, dividing sts so you have 14 on needles 1 and 3 (front and back) and 6 on needles 2 and 4 (sides).

Round 1. K all sts. Round 2. With CC, k15, m1, k4, m1, k16, m1, k4, m1, k1. 44 sts. Round 3. With MC, p all sts. Round 4. With CC, k15, m1, k6, m1, k16, m1, k6, m1, k1. 48 sts. Round 5. With MC, k all sts. Round 6. With CC, k15, m1, k8, m1, k16, m1, k8, m1, k1. 52 sts. Round 7. With MC, p all sts. Round 8. With CC, k15, m1, k10, m1, k16, m1, k10, m1, k1. 56 sts. Round 9. With MC, k all sts. Round 10. With CC, k15, m1, k12, m1, k16, m1, k12, m1, k1. 60 sts. Round 11. With MC, p all sts. Rounds 12–13. With CC, k all sts. Round 14. With MC, k4, attach leg, k2, attach leg, k rem sts. Rounds 15–16. With CC, k all sts. Round 17. With MC, p all sts. Round 18. With CC, k all sts. Round 19. With MC, k all sts. Round 20. With CC, k all sts. Round 21. With MC, p all sts. Rounds 22–23. With CC, k all sts. Round 24. With MC, k3, attach leg, k4, attach leg, k rem sts. Rounds 25–26. With CC, k all sts. Round 27. With MC, p all sts.

Pause to make "feet" on the legs by threading the CO tail through a yarn needle, poking the needle through the leg 1–2 sts from the end, carrying the yarn tail over the end of the leg, and poking it through the leg again. Continue doing this until the leg ends in a stiff ball of yarn, then thread the yarn down through the inside of the leg and cut off the end, pulling it back to the inside.

Weave in the other end for each leg on the WS. If you like, you may use duplicate stitch with this end on the RS to neaten up any loose sts where the leg joins the bee body before pulling the tail through to the WS to weave it in.

Round 28. With CC, k15, ssk, k10, k2tog, k16, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 56 sts. Round 29. With MC, k all sts. Round 30. With CC, (k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1) 4 times. 48 sts. Round 31. With MC, p all sts. Round 32. With CC, (k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1) 4 times. 40 sts. Round 33. With MC, k all sts. Round 34. With CC, (k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1) 4 times. 32 sts. Round 34. With MC, p all sts. Round 35. With CC, (k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1) 4 times. 24 sts. Round 36. With MC, k all sts. Round 37. With CC, (k1, ssk, k2tog, k1) 4 times. 16 sts.

Break CC yarn and weave in end on WS.

Round 38. With MC, p all sts. Round 39. (K2, k2tog) 4 times. 12 sts. Round 40. K all sts. Round 41. (K1, k2tog) 4 times. 8 sts. Rounds 42–43. K all sts. Round 44. K2tog 4 times. 4 sts. Rounds 45–46. K all sts.

Break yarn and use yarn needle to pull tail through all 4 rem sts and into the stinger.

Wings (make 2)

Using modified technique as for body, with CC, P up and knit 6 sts along "spine" of bee. (See photo for placement guide.)

Rows 1–5. Kfb, k across. 11 sts after row 5. Rows 6–7. K across. Rows 8–16. K2tog, k across. 2 sts after row 16. Row 17. K2tog.

Break yarn and weave in ends underneath wing.

Stuff Sheldon into his bee costume, tucking his bottom legs up and his top legs down, and watch him fly around!

Sheep Shell by Ruthless Knitting

Size: This pattern is designed to fit Super Sheldon, but the same directions may be followed to produce a shell for the original Sheldon if sport weight yarn is used.

Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Worsted (60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 75 yd/50g): Cream (MC), 1 ball; Black (CC), 1 ball.

Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm): double-pointed needles; straight needles If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle Short lengths of waste yarn (4) Hanging stitch marker (optional)

Gauge 20 sts / 26 rows = 4" in St st on US 6. Notes The upper shell is knit in 2 pieces, and then a third panel is worked separately with integrated limbs and is attached to the shell top using mattress stitch. The tail is added last.

Increases and decreases: In this pattern, the abbreviation "m1," or "make 1," refers to making a st by creating a loop with the working yarn, twisting it, and placing it on the R needle. The abbreviations "kfb" and "pfb" refer to "knit into the front and back of the next stitch" and "purl into the front and back of the next stitch," respectively. The abbreviation “dd,” or “double decrease,” refers to the following action: slip one stitch purlwise, purl two stitches together, and pass the first, slipped stitch over the decrease stitch and off the needle.

You may wish to mark the beg of each round with a hanging stitch marker or a safety pin.

Shell Top Using MC, CO 18 sts. Row 1. Sl1, m1, p1, m1, p until 2 sts rem, m1, p1, m1, p1. 22 sts. Row 2. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 4 times, k3. Row 3. Rep row 1. 26 sts. Row 4. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 6 times, k1. Row 5. Rep row 1. 30 sts. Row 6. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 6 times, k3. Row 7. Rep row 1. 34 sts. Row 8. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 8 times, k1. Row 9. Rep row 1. 38 sts. Row 10. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 8 times, k3. Row 11. Rep row 1. 42 sts. Row 12. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 10 times, k1. Row 13. Sl 1, p to end. Row 14. Sl1, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 10 times, k1. Row 15. Sl1, p to end. Row 16. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 10 times, k1. Row 17. Sl1, dd, p until 4 sts rem, dd, p1. 38 sts. Row 18. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 8 times, k3. Row 19. Rep row 17. 34 sts. Row 20. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 8 times, k1. Row 21. Rep row 17. 30 sts. Row 22. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 6 times, k3. Row 23. Rep row 17. 26 sts. Row 24. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 6 times, k1. Row 25. Rep row 17. 22 sts. Row 26. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 4 times, k3. Row 27. Rep row 17. 18 sts. Row 28. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 4 times, k1. Row 29. Rep row 17. 14 sts. Row 30. Sl1, k2, (k1, p1, k1 into next st; p3tog) 2 times, k3. Row 31. Rep row 17. 10 sts. Row 32. Sl1, (p3tog; k1, p1, k1 into next st) 2 times, k1. Row 33. Sl1, p to end. Row 34. BO in knit.

Shell Bottom Using CC, CO 10 sts. Odd-numbered rows 1-21 (RS): K1, kfb, k to end. Even-numbered rows 2-20 (WS): P1, pfb, p to end. 31 sts when row 21 is complete.

Even-numbered rows 22-42 (WS): P1, p2tog, p to end. Odd-numbered rows 23-41 (RS): K1, k2tog, k to end. 10 sts when row 42 is complete.

Row 43 (RS): BO all sts.

Break yarn and weave in all ends from shell top and bottom on WS. Using a length of MC yarn and yarn needle, and holding shell and shell bottom with WS together, attach shell bottom to shell top, centering shell bottom a few stitches in from the edge all the way around. Use any seaming method you like, as long as it is invisible on the RS. Complete seam, tie a small knot, break yarn, and hide ends using crochet hook or yarn needle.

Shell Attachment Panel Using MC, CO 16 sts. Odd-numbered rows 1-9 (WS): P1, pfb, p to end. Even-numbered rows 2-8 (RS): K1, kfb, k to end. 25 sts when row 9 is complete.

Row 10: K1. Join waste yarn and k6. Slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k11. Join second piece of waste yarn and k6. Slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k1. Odd-numbered rows 11–15: P1, pfb, p to end. Even-numbered rows 12–16: K1, kfb, k to end. Row 17. P1, pfb, p to end. 32 sts. Row 18. K all sts. Odd-numbered rows 19–22. P1, p2tog, p to end. Even-numbered rows 20–22: K1, k2tog, k to end. Row 23. P1, p2tog, p to end. 27 sts. Row 24. K1, Join waste yarn and k6. Slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with CC, k13. Join second piece of waste yarn and k6. Slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with CC, k1. Odd-numbered rows 25–33. P1, p2tog, p to end. Even-numbered rows 26–34. K1, k2tog, k to end. Row 35. P1, p2tog, p to end. 16 sts. Row 36: BO all sts.

Limbs (make 4) Use a DPN or yarn needle to unpick waste yarn and place sts released on 2 DPNs, divided 5 sts on top needle and 6 on bottom. Using DPNs, join CC and k around, picking up and knitting 3 new sts between the needles on the outer edge of the body and 2 new sts between the needles on the inner part of the body. 16 sts.

Rounds 1–16. K all sts. Round 17. (Kfb, k3) 4 times. 20 sts. Rounds 18–21. K all sts. Round 22. K2tog 10 times. 10 sts. Round 23. K2tog 5 times. 5 sts.

Break yarn. Using yarn needle, thread yarn tail through all 5 sts, beg with first k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close. Make small knot, pull yarn to inside, and trim end.

Finishing Construct Shell Weave in all ends. Seam shell attachment panel to shell top using mattress stitch. You will need to seam approximately one stitch on the top for every two on the bottom along the sides and approximately two stitches on the top for every two on the bottom along the tail end. Leave the top open for the turtle’s head. Trim seaming yarn, make a small knot, and pull the end into the inside with crochet hook or yarn needle.

Make Tail With MC, P up and knit 6 sts along the “butt” seam, centering your sts between the two nubbly bits that form the first row of trinity stitch. Row 1 (WS). Sl1, k5. Row 2 (RS). Sl1, p5. Row 3. Rep row 1. Row 4. Sl1, SSP, p2tog, p1. 4 sts. Row 5. Sl, k3.

Break yarn. Using yarn needle, thread yarn tail through rem 4 sts. Pull tightly to draw sts together. Weave in ends on underside of tail.

Put Sheldon in his sheep costume, stuffing each of his legs into place, and watch him frolic around!

Bat Shell by Ruthless Knitting

Size: This pattern is designed to fit Super Sheldon, but the same directions may be followed to produce a shell for the original Sheldon if sport weight yarn is used.

Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Worsted (60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 75 yd/50g): Black, 2 balls.

Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm): double-pointed needles; straight needles (optional) If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle Short lengths of waste yarn (2) Hanging stitch marker (optional)

Gauge 20 sts / 26 rows = 4" in St st on US 6.

Notes This shell is knit in one piece from the bottom to the neck. The stitches for the two front limbs are placed on waste yarn and then picked up and knit after the body is finished. Finally, the wings are made separately in one piece and seamed to the body.

You may wish to mark the beg of each round with a hanging stitch marker or a safety pin.

Body CO 6 sts. Divide over 3 DPNs. Round 1. K around. Round 2. Kfb 6 times. 12 sts. Round 3. K around, redistributing sts evenly over 4 DPNs. Even-numbered rounds 4–20. Kfb into first st on needle 1; k to last st on needle 2, kfb; kfb into first st on needle 3; k to last st on needle 4, kfb. 48 sts after round 20. Odd-numbered rounds 5–19. K around. Rounds 21–27. K around. Round 28. SSK, k until 2 sts rem on needle 2, k2tog, SSK, k until 2 sts rem on needle 4, k2tog. 44 sts. Round 29. K around. Round 30. Rep round 28. 40 sts. Round 31. K1, join waste yarn and k6, slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k6, join second piece of waste yarn and k6, slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k to end of round. Rounds 32–37. Rep rounds 28 and 29 three times. 28 sts. Rounds 38–47. K2, p2 around. Round 48. BO sts in pattern.

Limbs (make 2) Use a DPN or yarn needle to unpick waste yarn and place sts released on 2 DPNs, divided 5 sts on top needle and 6 on bottom. Using DPNs, join CC and k around, picking up and knitting 3 new sts between the needles on the outer edge of the body and 2 new sts between the needles on the inner part of the body. 16 sts.

Rounds 1–16. K all sts. Round 17. (Kfb, k3) 4 times. 20 sts. Rounds 18–21. K all sts. Round 22. K2tog 10 times. 10 sts. Round 23. K2tog 5 times. 5 sts.

Wings CO 3 sts. Odd-numbered rows 1–25. P all sts. Row 2 (RS). K1, m1, k1, m1, k1. 5 sts. Row 4. K1, kfb, m1, k1, m1, kfb, k1. 9 sts. Row 6. K1, kfb, k2, m1, k1, m1, k2, kfb, k1. 13 sts. Row 8. K1, kfb, k1, (m1, k1, m1, k2) twice, m1, k1, m1, k1, kfb, k1. 21 sts. Row 10. K1, kfb, k3, (m1, k1, m1, k4) twice, m1, k1, m1, k3, kfb, k1. 29 sts. Row 12. K1, kfb, k5, (m1, k1, m1, k6) twice, m1, k1, m1, k5, kfb, k1. 37 sts. Row 14. K1, kfb, k7, (m1, k1, m1, k8) twice, m1, k1, m1, k7, kfb, k1. 45 sts. Row 16. K1, kfb, k9, (m1, k1, m1, k10) twice, m1, k1, m1, k9, kfb, k1. 53 sts. Row 18. K1, kfb, k11, (m1, k1, m1, k12) twice, m1, k1, m1, k11, kfb, k1. 61 sts. Row 20. K1, kfb, k13, (m1, k1, m1, k14) twice, m1, k1, m1, k13, kfb, k1. 69 sts. Row 22. K1, kfb, k15, (m1, k1, m1, k16) twice, m1, k1, m1, k15, kfb, k1. 77 sts. Row 24. K1, kfb, k17, (m1, k1, m1, k18) twice, m1, k1, m1, k17, kfb, k1. 85 sts. Row 26. K1, kfb, k19, (m1, k1, m1, k20) twice, m1, k1, m1, k19, kfb, k1. 93 sts. Row 27 (WS). K to end. Row 28. P to end. Row 29. BO in knit.

Finishing Orient the wings so that the cast-off edge forms the bent V-shape extending from the tip of one arm down to the base of the body and back up to the tip of the other arm. Seam the wings across the arms and back, allowing the wings to extend over the end of each arm by a few stitches. Working underneath the wings, seam the center spine to the body from neck to base of body. Weave in all ends on the WS or beneath the wings.

Stuff Sheldon into his shell, putting his arms into the armholes and tucking his legs upward against his body. Watch him fly off into the night!

Lion Shell by Ruthless Knitting

Size: This pattern is designed to fit Super Sheldon, but the same directions may be followed to produce a shell for the original Sheldon if sport weight yarn is used.

Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Worsted (60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 75 yd/50g): Sweet Potato (MC), 2 balls; Coffee (CC), 1 ball.

Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm): double-pointed needles If necessary, adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle Small amount of waste yarn Hanging stitch marker (optional)

Gauge 20 sts / 26 rows = 4" in St st on US 6.

Notes This shell is knit in one piece from tail to neck, with stitches for the four legs placed on waste yarn and then picked up and knit separately at the end. The mane is knit separately and grafted to the neck.

I-Cord: To work 3-stitch I-cord for “tail,” CO 3 stitches onto a double- pointed needle. *Slide the stitches to the far end of the needle, pull the yarn tight across the back of the stitches just worked, and k3. Rep from *. After a few rows, the stitches will begin to form a tube.

Loop stitch: To work loop stitch, hold the middle finger of your left hand behind the left needle and make your knit stitch so that the yarn loops around your finger before being pulled through the needle. Do not slip this stitch off the needle. Instead, transfer it back to the left needle and knit the stitch just knitted and the original stitch together through the back loop. Repeat for every stitch to be worked.

Increases: The abbreviation "kfb" refers to kniting into the front and back of the next stitch.

You may wish to mark the beg of each round with a hanging stitch marker or a safety pin.

Body With MC, work 3-st I-cord for 4”. Kfb three times. 6 sts. Divide over 3 DPNs. Round 1. K around. Round 2. Kfb 6 times. 12 sts. Round 3. K around, redistributing sts evenly over 4 DPNs. Even-numbered rounds 4–20. Kfb into first st on needle 1; k to last st on needle 2, kfb; kfb into first st on needle 3; k to last st on needle 4, kfb. 48 sts after round 20. Odd-numbered rounds 5–19. K around. Round 21. K2, join waste yarn and k6, slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k8, join second piece of waste yarn and k6, slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k to end of round. Rounds 22–27. K around. Round 28. SSK, k until 2 sts rem on needle 2, k2tog, SSK, k until 2 sts rem on needle 4, k2tog. 44 sts. Round 29. K around. Round 30. Rep round 28. 40 sts. Round 31. K2, join waste yarn and k6, slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k4, join second piece of waste yarn and k6, slide these 6 sts back to the working end of the needle and reknit with MC, k to end of round. Rounds 32–37. Rep rounds 28 and 29 three times. 28 sts. Rounds 38–47. K2, p2 around. Round 48. K around.

Place all sts on waste yarn.

Mane With MC, use a provisional method to CO 30 sts. Rows 1 and 3. K to end. Rows 2 and 4. P to end. Row 5. K1, work loop st over 28 sts, k1. Row 6. Knit all sts through back loop. Join CC. MC may be carried loosely up the side. Rows 7–8. K all sts. Row 9. Rep row 5. Row 10. Rep row 6. Switch to MC. CC may be carried loosely up the side. Rows 11–12. K all sts. Row 13. Rep row 5. Row 14. Rep row 6. Switch to CC and BO all sts.

Using provisional cast-on loops, graft mane to neck. Seam open side of mane closed using mattress stitch and weave in all ends.

Rounds 1–16. K all sts. Round 17. (Kfb, k3) 4 times. 20 sts. Rounds 18–21. K all sts. Round 22. K2tog 10 times. 10 sts. Round 23. K2tog 5 times. 5 sts.

Finishing Add tail fringe: Trim cast-on end and pull into tail using crochet hook or yarn needle. Take about 24” of CC yarn, thread through yarn needle, and draw through the tail about 1/4” from the tip. Pull this yarn over your finger and draw it back down through the tail, again entering the tail about 1/4” from the tip. Continue looping the yarn over your finger and through the tail, entering and exiting at different points until you’ve pretty well covered the end of the tail with CC yarn and loops. Pull the yarn tightly around the base of these loops several times to secure them, tie it off, trim the end, and use the yarn needle to conceal the end inside the tail. Use scissors to cut the loops where they cross your finger, turning them into fringe.

Add “paws”: Using the picture as a guide, take about 10” of CC yarn and sew toes onto each “paw.” Turn lion inside out and weave in ends on WS.