Andean Vest Recipe

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Andean Vest Recipe

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SIZE: Adult

ADVANCED 2 mm (US #0) Fine Fingering

This is not a knitting pattern, but an expanded NEEDLES outline of the stages and the principles underlying the Choose the smallest size in which you can obtain construction of the original vest. This vest uses many many lengths and types of needles. It is helpful to techniques including sew-and-cut and is not for the have multiple circulars ranging from 30 - 80 cm (12 faint of heart. - 32”) and both long and short dpns. The original The sum of all the areas of the vest is more impressive was worked on 2 mm (US# 0). A pair of dpns one than the difficulty any particular part. No more than size larger are used for the I-cord. two colours are used at any time. Very experienced and daring knitters only. ABBREVIATIONS This vest was inspired by South American ch’ullus, Dec2: A balanced two-stitch decrease about a whose gauge and ingenuity of design leave me central stitch. It is made first from the right and breathless with admiration. The construction then from the left. Pick up 2nd stitch on RHN, pass principle behind the vest is: Four triangles equal a it over first stitch, k1 from LHN, s2sts back to the tube. The use of the triangles is to give the impression LHN, pick up second stitch and pass it over the first of individual hats although the motifs have to fit a stitch on LHN, slip the remaining stitch to the RHN. triangular rather than a conical shape. K2t: Knit two stitches together YARN LHN: Left hand needle A large number (60-70) in wool, wool blends and Make one stitch by working into the bar a little alpaca were used, this is adjustable to taste. M1: between stitches. Select yarns of fingering weight or finer to give you the desired gauge. Either choose yarns to give the O: Yarn over needle to create a new stitch. necessary gauge for the charts to fit your size, or determine the gauge to suit your yarns and draw P2t: Purl two stitches together your own charts by the given method. Add life Psso: Pass slipped stitch over to the colours by use of multiple shades of each colour. RHN: Right hand needle S1: Slip one stitch to RHN unworked, purlwise COLOURS unless otherwise specified. A bright South American palette was used for the Front and Back triangles, but for the Side triangles Ssk: Slip, slip, knit. Slip the next two stitches, a slightly more restrained colourway was used. knitwise, one at a time, to the RHN, insert LHN Predominantly greens, shaded from dark to light, purlwise (needle tip to needle tip) into both with flashes of brighter colours to tie the pieces stitches and knit them together. This produces a together. Bands are garter stitch throughout, with a one-stitch, left-slanting decrease. single colour garter bump (2 rows/rounds) on both Tbl: Work through back of loop. inner and outer edges to frame the colour pattern within. Pictures are included to help illustrate colour and technique details.

CHARTS Number of sts at the top of the Back triangle: Very large pieces of graph paper are necessary, or (A-1) x sts/in =...... use a computer charting program. [round up to an odd number]

GAUGE Number of rows of Back triangle: Work simulated ‘circular’ swatches using any (B-0.5) x rows/in =...... section of the chart that takes your fancy. Aim for a dense fabric of approximately 10.5 sts x 11 rows per Chart your triangle onto squared paper or into a inch. The dense fabric will ensure a strong contrast computer program. With an erasable pencil, draw between main and contrast colours and help the straight lines from the outer edge of the top row vest to withstand the ravages of time. Gauge may stitches to either side of the final ‘point’ stitch on be modified to adjust the size of the vest or you the last row. Outline the edge of the fabric stitches may chart your own vest from scratch. down one side, conforming to the edges of the stitches and following the line as closely as possible. SIZE It is unlikely to be a convenient ratio. Repeat for At gauge, size as charted; 40” chest, 20” length. the opposite side of the chart. If you copy the first Finished weight 340g. side, the increases will always be paired on the same round. Once you have your template for the back CONSTRUCTION chart make a few extra blank copies, one of which The vest is constructed from four separate pieces of will become the basis of the front chart. circular stranded knitting with steeks. All triangles are worked from the large end towards the smaller SIDE TRIANGLES end. The front triangle has two steeks, the side Using your Back triangle chart, draw the long triangles have armhole steeks. All shapings are fully (lower) edge of the Side triangle approximately fashioned on the first/last stitches of the fabric to (1.5 x row gauge) rows up from the tip of the back ensure that there will be a clear and easy column of triangle. See diagram, p. 3. stitches to follow for seaming purposes. Calculate the width of the Back Triangle at the this level (D”). D =...... PLANNING YOUR TRIANGLES Armed with your gauge in sts and rows per inch, The base width (“) of both side triangles is: calculations (“) are made from the following [C-(2 x D)] / 2 =...... measurements: A: Desired shoulder width (excluding bands). Multiply this figure by stitches per inch to give you =...... the number of stitches for the long edge of the Side B: Desired overall vest length, inc 2” of lower band. triangle. Draw this alongside the Back triangle to =...... give you a perfectly matching edge and take one of C: Finished chest measurement the back charts and place it on the opposite side =...... to give the other side of the triangle. Draw into the

Fill in your blank charts in with motifs that make Back your heart sing and are pleasing to knit. Floats need to be caught in regularly every (3 - 5 sts), plan accordingly (see the little incidental squiggles, level with the cyclists’ head); at this firm gauge there Front should be little difficulty with colour show-through. x 2 Side x 2 KNITTING THE TRIANGLES Cast on at the long edge, adding an extra 6-8 steek sts between the beginning / end point of the D round (in the case of the front, two steeks). Work in the round following the decreases at the edges triangle an armhole of suitable depth and width of each chart meticulously. Use a ssk on the first with 45 degree shaping at the corners. Once the two stitches at the beginning and a k2t on the last Side chart template is complete, make extra copies. two stitches of the round to give a smooth and easily seamed edge. Use armhole steeks on the FRONT TRIANGLE side triangles. Cast off any remaining stitches on Take a Back template, divide it along the center line completion of each piece. (adding an extra stitch to whichever side is missing When down to a very few stitches at the tip of a one or read the final ½ st as a whole stitch on both triangle it is possible to work to and fro on a pair of sides). Plan your neckline shaping and mirror image needles, but maintain the steeks. it to the opposite side. BODY TRIANGLES - DETAILED NOTES MOTIFS Back - Each row of blocks has a dark and light basic Those shown on the charts are derivatives of colour. traditional motifs, scaled to suit the coarser gauge To achieve a vertical stripe effect the dark at which we are working. Create motifs or symbols background blocks are arranged to lie vertically which have meaning to you (bicycles for me), other above those of the preceding row. Select a single possibilities are names, dates, music, family, pets colourway for all the horizontal stripes. and passions. Sides - The background shades of green are graded The two sides of the vest are similar in style and from dark at the wide end through to light at the fairly restrained in character, but the front and back shoulder. Similar bright stripe colours are used on are styled after distinctly different regions and are both sides although not in the same sequence, much more flamboyant in colour. Miscellaneous these colours tie in with those used on the Front alternative motifs appear in the blank areas around and Back. A single stripe outline colour is used the charts. throughout the Left triangle. Two colours of contrast are used alternately on both sides, one of

which is common to both. The edge stitch on either EAR FLAP side is worked in the background colour except for With RS facing and a dpn, beginning at the junction the edges of the stripes. of the left Side triangle and the protruding section of the Back triangle: knit up one stitch into left Side Fronts - The background is formed by using triangle edge, then knit up stitches under one stitch all the colours of the rainbow (and a few more of the I-cord (ensure that the public side of the besides), shaded from dark to light and back again I-cord still shows two stitches), as far as the point. repeatedly with a natural contrast used throughout. Cast on 2 sts. With a new dpn, m1 (between the Watch out for the neck increases. For subtlety new stitches-fudge if needed), m1 after next new try knitting into each ply of the yarn or a raised stitch, knit up stitches up to vest edge, knit up one increase if the former is not possible. stitch into vest edge and pass the preceding stitch over it. (There should be one more stitch on the I-CORD first needle than second). Using a bright colour yarn, on 2.25 mm (US 1) needles, the cord runs down the hypotenuse of the Row 1 WS: P1, knit to last two sts, end p2t. triangles and so needs slightly bigger stitches to Row 2 RS: Begin patterning, see chart. With yarn achieve a row to row match for mattress stitching. at the back of the work insert needle through first Work four lengths (as long as the sides of each stitch knitwise and also through the edge of the triangle) of 4 stitch I-cord. Leave the two I-cords Left Side triangle, bring yarn through fabric and that will frame the Back triangle with live stitches. stitch together (may be easier with a crochet hook). Knit to the end of the first needle, cast on 2 sts. CONSTRUCTION Next needle, make 2 sts placed as before, knit to Sew and cut open each conical piece. It may be last st, end s1, k1 through edge of vest, psso. necessary to cut and then sew at the tips of the Row 3 WS: P1, knit to last st, end p1. triangles, don’t worry, it won’t go anywhere! Beginning at the wide end of the front and back Repeat last two rows until the flap is approximately triangles, mattress stitch the I-cord, row for row, 1.25” in depth from I-cord. Complete Ear Flap by down the sides. A two stitch column of I-cord applying a garter stitch edging, either solid, striped, stitches will remain visible on either side. At the end triangles or waves. of the Back, amalgamate the live stitches of each cord onto one needle and reduce smoothly to a GARTER STITCH APPLIED EDGING point. With chosen initial colour, RS Seam the sides into position against the other side facing, knit up 6 sts along the edge of the cords. Keep an eye out for everything coming of the body (from the point shown together level, except the projecting ear flap. towards the flap, knit first flap stitch Cold-water block at this time, measure carefully from needle and pass the preceding RS and manipulate pieces to ensure symmetry. stitch over it. Turn. Knit 6.

RS Rows: K5, k2t tbl, turn. (Places final edging stitch RS: K2, knit into edge as before, turn. over the raw stitch on the LHN and joins them) WS: K3. WS Rows: Knit 6. Repeat increases until the original number of edge Repeat these two rows incorporating any patterns. stitches has been reached, begin attaching to the See over for triangle directions. Change colour right side ear flap stitches on the subsequent RS on any RS row to create stripes. Stripes are often row. shaded from light to dark or in the form of a rainbow. Both ends may be GARTER STITCH INTARSIA TRIANGLES knitted in at the back of the Row 1 RS: K5 Col A, ssk in Col A. work to keep the edge firm Row 2 WS: K6 Col A. and tidy, darn tails further into work later. See diagram Row 3: K5 Col A, intarsia link to Col B, ssk in Col B, showing two tails knitted turn. in simultaneously on the Row 4: K1 Col B, link, k5 Col A. private side. Row 5: K4 Col A, link, k1 Col B, ssk in Col B, turn. Check the gauge of your edging, if frilly or flaring change to a smaller dpn until 2 rows garter equals Row 6: K2 Col B, link, k4 Col A. the width of 1st, or work k3t tbl occasionally to use Row 7: K3 Col A, link, k2 Col B, ssk in Col B, turn. up an extra edge stitch. Check as you work that the band is at the correct tension, a little tight is better Row 8: K3 Col B, link, k3 Col A. than floppy. It can always be blocked out. Row 9: K2 Col A, link, k3 Col B, ssk in Col B, turn. Row 10: K4 Col B, link, k2 Col A. Row 11: K1 Col A, link, k4 Col B, ssk in Col B, turn.

This diagram shows additional edging pattern ideas. Row 12: K5 Col B, link, k1 Col A. Disconnect Col A. EAR FLAP POINT Row 13: K5 Col B, ssk in Col B, turn. When all the left side stitches have been used up, taper the 6 edge stitches to a point by making a ssk Row 14: K6 Col B. Disconnect Col B. at the end of every RS row until 1 stitch remains. On completion of Row 14, begin next pair of RS facing, knit into this stitch with a new colour triangles from Row 1, with two new colours. For to begin the new side. Slip this st back to the LHN ease of working, calculate how much yarn one unworked, k1, k1 into the knot at the edge of the triangle uses by knitting and unpicking one triangle, 2st row of the opposite side, turn. cut the yarns to length allowing plenty for ends and darning.

AFTERTHOUGHT SHOULDERS Repeat at opposite shoulder edge. Path of the row Row 3 RS facing: Knit across remaining sts, from Right Front to Left Front,. Begin row Row 4 WS facing: P1, knit to last st, p1. Repeat here Pin Shoulder Bind Off, using the tails of yarn from Pin previous decrease. Right Repeat Rows 3 and 4, until the shoulders are Front RS bound off. Place Back neck stitches on a holder or dpn. Change colours to taste, but for maximum effect MAIN GARTER STITCH BAND use each colour for both a right and wrong side row Knit up 3st per 4 rows up a 4” vertical section of before changing. Two colour patterning may also be one of the fronts as a test swatch. Work a section used, as long as the float length is kept small. of the band repeat, check gauge. Adjust needle size until this ratio gives a stable band. Row 1 RS facing: Join and shape shoulders by knitting up stitches (stitch for stitch) across the With several circular needles (it is helpful to begin a right Front, onto a dpn, from neck to armhole edge. new needle at the sharp corners), begin knitting up to the left of the ear flap: Knit one stitch into steek at either edge of each body Knit-up stitch for stitch along the lower edge. piece to form selvage stitch when knitting up the Marker. bands. A single ‘corner’ stitch. Marker. 3 sts /4 rows up to turn on front edge. Marker. With the same piece of yarn and a circular needle, 4 sts/5 rows along the neck slope. Marker. knit up across Back stitches. Continuing with the 3 sts /4 rows up to shoulder gusset. Marker. same yarn and another dpn knit across the left One st per garter bump across the gusset. Marker. Front stitches. Pin the vest together at the shoulder Stitch for stitch along the back of Neck, marking edges to help prevent gaps at these points. the mid point. Repeat knit up ratios and markers down the Row 2 WS facing: P1, knit across all 3 needles in opposite side. turn, end p1. Before working further, check that the numbers of Shoulder Bind Off: Turn work inside out. Slide the stitches between corresponding markers are equal Back and Front shoulder edge stitches to the ends on either side. Mark any minor discrepancies and of their needles. With a separate length of yarn, work a k2t on Row 1 in any appropriate positions. work a three-needle-bind-off over the outer 1/4 of This will ensure that the band pattern will be the shoulder stitches. Bring tail of yarn through the symmetrical. last stitch and allow it to dangle inside for later use.

It may be necessary to make a couple of increases at the extreme ends of the band to ensure a good fit to the curved edge of the ear flap. See diagram (opposite) and chart for suggestions. Main Band

Row 1 WS: Knit to end, making any adjustments to stitch numbers. Row 2 RS: Knit. Begin pattern from chart or design your own-keep float lengths small. Make an increase on either side of the right angle corner Row 4: With Col C, knit. stitch (mirror image the pattern around the corner stitch). Make a single inc at the turn on the front Row 5: With Col D, [k6, Dec2 x 2,] rpt, end k3. edge, incorporate this into pattern-see colour [15 sts] picture. Mirror image pattern around the center Row 6: With Col D, knit. This leaves 4 sts for every back. Complete row, making corresponding incs on multiple of 12 sts at beginning + 3 sts. left side. Increase Row: (k1, O) rpt, end k1. This is 2 x the Check at the end of row for fit with the ear flap. number of sts at the end of Row 6 less 1. [29 sts] Row 3: With colour pattern as dictated by the Next Row: Knit. previous row, knit. Take care to strand the floats on the WS. Calculate the length of Puntas that you require, allow a little extra for the curvature of the earflap, Work as for Rows 2 and 3 until 13 rows have been see diagram. On completion of the Puntas section completed. Leave stitches on the needles. and final knit row, work 10 rows of any stranded Garter pattern of your choice or see chart / PUNTAS EDGING STRIPS pictures. (Make decreases at the appropriate end to Make two separate pieces. fit the ear flap in this section). Work the given 3 repeat practice swatch to determine the number of repeats you require. The original triangles were worked in groups of 2 or (The original has 16 repeats). 3 in the same colour and yarns linked intarsia style at the back of the work. With Col A, and ribbing size needles, cast on gently Work as usual. a multiple of 12st + 3. [39 sts] Row 11 RS: Row 1 RS: With Col B, knit. Row 12 WS: Apply waste yarn. Row 2 WS: With Col B, knit. Row 3: With Col C, K8, Dec2 x 2, [k10, Dec2 x 2,] rpt, end k5. [27 sts]

APPLICATION OF WASTE YARN AND suggested for the Ear Flap beginning at the lower GRAFTING DETAILS right front edge. Count the stitches of the Puntas edge and also the lower stitches of the band edge. They will be similar. ARMHOLE BANDS While working the first row of waste yarn make k2t In a solid colour, RS facing, knit up stitches around decreases evenly across whichever edge has the armhole. Purl one round. greater number of stitches until stitch numbers are Work 4 chart rows / 8 rounds of Garter stitch. Knit equal. one round solid, cast off purlwise on following round. With strongly contrasting, smooth waste yarn of a similar weight, knit Row 12 of edging. Work a THE FINAL FLOURISH further 6 rows of Stocking stitch in waste yarn. Darn in any remaining ends and add a little tassel to Thread stitches off needle onto a tail of yarn. Work the ear flap. 6 rows of Stocking stitch across the lower stitches of the band edge. Diagram. Thread stitches off needle onto a tail of yarn.

With the appropriate colour yarn for Row 12 (to match Row 11), graft the two pieces together following the path of the first row of waste yarn where it intersects with the working yarn on either side; purlwise through Row 11 and knitwise through the edge of the band. Treat the k2t sts as a single stitch, be sure to sew cleanly through both yarns.

APPLICATION OF GARTER STITCH EDGING Complete the line of the outer edge of the main band. With matching colour knit up stitches along the front side edges of the puntas strips, see diagram. Complete the garter ridge by turning work and knitting back. Break off yarn. Add these new stitches to the end of the needle with the other front band stitches. With a new colour and a dpn, cast on 6 sts. Work as for Applied Garter Stitch triangles or other edgings

Andean Vest - Fronts Cast (35 x 2) sts + 2 x steek sts. Work from the wide end (invert the chart).

Andean Vest - Back Cast 131 sts + steek sts. Work from the wide end (invert the chart).

Andean Vest - Side 1 Cast 178 sts + steek sts. Work from the wide end (invert the chart).

© 1999 Lucy Neatby | LucyNeatby.com | Made in Canada 45 Dorothea Drive, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada B2W 5X4 12/13 Andean Vest - Side 2 Cast 178 sts + steek sts. Work from the wide end (invert the chart).

© 1999 Lucy Neatby | LucyNeatby.com | Made in Canada 45 Dorothea Drive, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada B2W 5X4 45 Dorothea Drive, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada B2W5X4 Canada Dartmouth,45 Dorothea Scotia, Drive, Nova Neatby © 1999Lucy EDGE EAR &LAP FIT SHAPING TO Armhole bands - work only rows. 4chart -work bands Armhole Puntas band - do not complete not -do Puntas band the WSrow. last directions. See Armhole and PuntasBand Armhole EAR FLAP EAR Main Band Main MITER

| LucyNeatby.com | Made inCanada |Made REPEAT

direction rowBand Applied Edge - worked at 90 degrees to previous rows. CENTER BACK DETAIL IMAGE MIRROR 13/13