Series 500 Free Patterns

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Series 500 FREE knitting patterns 

Mindego Mitts Directions: Designed for WEBS by Cat Bordhi CO 48 sts and join in the Rnd, being careful not to twist the cast-on edge. (24 sts on each needle) Mark start of Rnd.

Short mittens: start with Rnd 19.

Long mittens, wrist-warmers, and fingerless mitts: start with Rnd 1. Rnds 1-3: Repeat (p1, k2, p1) to end. Rnd 4: Repeat BIND 6 times. Rnds 5-9: Repeat (p1, k2, p1) to end. Rnds 10-15: Repeat Rnds 4-9. Rnd 16: Repeat BIND twice, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, repeat BIND twice, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1. Size: Rnds 17-21: Repeat (p1, k2, p1) to end. women's average; Long mittens are 12.5” long, short Wristwarmers only: mittens are 9.5” long. Fingerless mitts are 11” long and Repeat Rnds 4-21 once more, then Rnds 4-13 once more. wrist-warmers are 8” long. Bind off.

Materials: Mittens and fingerless mitts only: 2 (wrist-warmers), 3 (mittens and fingerless mitts) balls Set-up for thumb gusset: Valley Yarns Valley Superwash (100% extrafine merino, Rnds 22-26: Repeat Rnds 4-8. 50g/109 yds) Rnd 27: Purl 1, k2, p2, k2, p1, place new start of Rnd 2 US size 7 circular needles – 24” long marker here (do not move needle intersection; start of Rnd is now 8 sts past start of this needle). Repeat (p1, k2, p1) Gauge: to new start of Rnd marker. 20 sts and 28 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch in the Rnd 28: Repeat BIND twice, BIND once but end with m1p, Rnd p1, BIND once but start with p1, m1p, repeat BIND twice. (50 sts) Abbreviations: th Rnd 29: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p2, repeat BIND—p1, insert right tip in space after 6 st, wrap yarn (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. aRnd inserted tip and pull loop through to front, place loop Rnd 30: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p1, LLinc, on left tip and snug up to bind these 6 sts together; knit st LRinc, p1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. (52 sts) loop together with 1 st, k1, p2, k2, p1. Rnd 31: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) to end. Rnd 32: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p1, LRinc, k2, Thumb-BIND—same as BIND, but omit the final p1. LLinc, p1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. (54 sts) You can close up gap between right side of binding and Rnd 33: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p1, k4, p1, adjacent fabric if you wish: on following Rnd, after the p1 repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. preceding the binding, knit first bound st together with the Rnd 34: BIND once, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, BIND once, p1, p1's purl bump. BIND just the next 4 k sts, p1, BIND once, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, BIND once. LLinc—lifted left increase: Lift the left leg of the stitch to Rnd 35: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p1, k1, kfb, the right of the running thread and place it on left needle. m1p, k2, p1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. (56 sts) Knit into its back leg. Rnd 36: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 7x. Rnd 37: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, Lrinc, p1, k2, LRinc—lifted right increase: Lift the right leg of the stitch to p2, k2, p1, LLinc, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. (58 the left of the running thread and place it on left needle. sts) Knit into its front leg. Rnd 38: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, k1, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. cdd—centered double decrease: Slip next 2 sts as if to Rnd 39: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, Lrinc, k1, p1, work a k2tog, k following st, pass the 2 slipped sts over k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, LLinc, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 the st just worked. times. (60 sts) Rnd 40: Repeat BIND 3 times, k2, BIND once, k2, repeat BIND 3 times. Rnd 41: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times.

Valley Yarns ©2010 Valley Yarns knitting/crochet patterns and weaving drafts are for personal use only and may not be copied. Any commercial use, including selling patterns and/or drafts and items made from them is prohibited. Questions? Please contact WEBS-America’s Yarn Store at [email protected] or 800.FOR.WEBS.

Rnd 42: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, m1p, k2, p1, Rnd 84: Repeat (k2tog, k2, k2tog) 6 times. (24 sts) k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, m1p, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. Rnd 85: Repeat (k2tog) 12x. (12 sts) (62 sts) Rnd 86: Repeat (k2tog) 6 times. (6 sts) Rnd 43: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p1, k2, p1, k2, Cut tail and weave through 6 sts, pull snug and weave in p2, k2, p1, k2, p1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. end. Rnd 44: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p1, m1p, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, m1p, p1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) Thumb 3 times. (64 sts) Set-up: Leave first 4 sts on the string or holder while you Rnd 45: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p2, k2, p1, k2, reload remaining 12 sts on 1 circ. Start of Rnd is at start of p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. these 12 sts. Rnd 46: Repeat BIND 3 times, p2, k2, BIND once, k2, p2, Rnd 1: Join yarn and p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2. Use a repeat BIND 3 times. second circ to pick up and knit 7 sts along cast-on edge, Rnds 47-51: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p2, k2, then work the 4 sts from the string as follows: p2, k2. (23 p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 sts total—12 on first needle and 11 on second needle) times. Rnd 2: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2) twice, k5, p2, k2. Rnd 52: BIND once, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, BIND once, p2, k2, Rnd 3: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2) twice, p1, cdd, k1, p2, k2. BIND once, k2, p2, BIND once, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, BIND (21 sts total—12 on first needle and 9 on second) Move 2 once. sts from second needle to first so first has 14 sts and Rnd 53: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, p2, k2, p1, k2, second has 7. p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. Rnd 4: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2) 3 times. To set the 16 thumb gusset sts [p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, Rnd 5: Thumb-BIND 3 times. k2, p2) aside and join for the 4 fingers of the hand: Rnds 6-10: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2) 3 times. Rnd 54: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times [note: the third repeat is worked from the other needle with the first For fingerless mitts only, bind off after Rnd 11. needle, for a total of 32 sts on the first needle), place 16 Rnds 11-18: Repeat Rnds 5-10, then Rnds 5-6 once more. thumb gusset sts on holder, CO 5 sts (on first circ – it now Rnd 19: Repeat cdd 7x. (7 sts remain) holds 37 sts), repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times (work 16 Close with purse-string closure and weave in all ends. sts with with new needle, then work next 8 from first needle. (53 sts--29 on first circ and 24 on second) Start of Rnd is now at start of needle that holds 29 sts. Rnd 55: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, k5, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. Rnd 56: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, k1, cdd, k1, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. (51 sts) Rnd 57: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times, k3, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. Rnd 58: Repeat BIND 3 times, cdd, repeat BIND 3 times. (49 sts) Rnd 59: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) twice, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 3 times. (48 sts—24 on each circ) Rnds 60-63: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 6 times. Rnd 64: Repeat BIND 6 times.

Fingerless mitts only: Rnds 65-69: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 6 times. Rnd 70: Repeat BIND 6 times. Rnds 71-72: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 6 times. Bind off and weave in all ends.

Mittens only: Rnds 65-69: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 6 times. Rnd 70: BIND once, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, repeat BIND twice, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, BIND once. Rnds 71-75: Repeat (p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) 6 times. Rnd 76: Repeat BIND 6 times. Rnds 77-82: Repeat rnds 71-76. Rnd 83: Repeat (k2tog, k1, p2, k1, k2tog) 6 times. (36 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc and tr across; turn. Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as a tr), skip first sc;skip next 2 sc, tr in next sc, ch 1, working all in front of last tr made, tr in first of 2 skipped sc – CRtr made; * ch 1, skip next sc, CRtr over next 3 sc; repeat from * to last sc; tr in last sc; turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each tr and ch-1 sp across; turn. Rows 6 and 7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3. Rows 8-11: Repeat Rows 4-7.

PANEL-Row 12: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), skip first 2 sc, dc in next sc, * ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next sc; repeat from * across; turn. Rows 13-34: Ch 4, skip first dc and ch-1 sp, * dc in dc, ch 1; repeat from * to last st; dc in 3rd ch of ch-4; turn. Row 35: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-1 sp across, sc in 3rd ch of ch-4; turn. Repeat Rows 2-35 twice more, then repeat Rows 2-11 once more. Fasten off.

TOP BORDER: With right side facing and larger hook, attach yarn to work across short edge; ch 1, work 177 sc evenly across; turn. Repeat Rows 2-11. Fasten off. Repeat same on bottom edge. Flower Garden LARGE ROSE AND LEAVES (Make 8): With larger hook, Afghan ch 4; join with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, [sc in ring, ch 3] 6 times; join with a sl st in first sc. LW1470 Rnd 2: Ch 1, [(sc, 4 dc, sc) all in ch-3 lp] 6 times; join in first sc – 6 petals. Rnd 3: Ch 2, working behind petals, [sc in ch-3 lp of Rnd 1 Designed by Mary Jane Protus. between 2nd and 3rd dc of petal, ch 4] 6 times; join in first sc. Afghan measures 52” x 68”. Rnd 4: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc) all in ch-4 lp] 6 times; join. RED HEART® “Soft Yarn”: 13 balls 4601 Off White. Rnd 5: Ch 3, working behind petals, [sc in ch-4 lp of Rnd 3 between 2nd and 3rd dc of petal, ch 5] 6 times; join. Crochet Hooks: 5.5mm [US I-9], 6mm [US J-10]. Rnd 6: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 6 dc, hdc, sc) all in ch-5 lp] 6 times; Yarn needle, pins for basting flowers to Panels. join. Rnd 7: Ch 3, working behind petals, [sc in ch-5 lp of Rnd 5 GAUGE: 14 sts =4”; 8 rows = 4” in panel pat with larger between 3rd and 4th dc of petal, ch 5] 6 times; join. hook. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to Rnd 8: Ch 1; (sc, hdc, 6 dc, hdc, sc) all in ch-5 lp – petal obtain the gauge. made; ch 11, * sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc Note: Afghan is worked from side to side. in next ch **, ch 10; repeat from * once more, then from * to ** once, sc in first sc of first leaf, sc in first ch of ch-11 With larger hook, ch 214. – leaf group made; work [2 petals, leaf group] twice, petal; BORDER- Row 1 (Right Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook join. Fasten off. and in each ch across; turn – 213 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * tr in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across; turn.

SMALL ROSE AND LEAVES (Make 14)-Rnds 1-3: Work same as Rnds 1-3 of Large Rose. Rnd 4: Work same as Rnd 4 of Large Rose AND AT THE SAME TIME after the first petal work one leaf group making 2 leaves instead of 3, then work remaining 5 petals. Fasten off.

FIVE-PETAL FLOWER (Make 14): With larger hook, ch 4; join with a sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, [sc in ring, ch 3, tr, ch 3] five times; join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

FINISHING: Sew flowers to Panels as shown. With a double strand of yarn, make 3 French Knots at center of each 5-Petal Flower.

Edging Row: With right side facing and smaller hook, attach yarn in any corner; ch 1, ** (sc, ch 2, sc) all in corner, * ch 1, skip next sp or sc, sc in next sp or sc; repeat from * to next corner; ch 1; repeat from ** around; ch 1; join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

RED HEART® “Soft Yarn”, Art. E728 available in solid colors -- 5 oz (140 g), 256 yd (234 m) or prints – 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd (187 m) balls.ball

ABBREVIATIONS: beg = beginning; ch = chain; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; lp(s) = loop(s); mm = millimeters; pat = pattern; rnd = round; sc = single crochet; sl st = slip stitch; sp(s) = space(s); st(s) = stitch(es); tr = treble crochet; yo = yarn over; * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified.

NOTE: All Fpdc are worked on right side. All bobbles are worked on wrong side and then pushed out to right side.

THROW Motif (Make 12). Ch 40. Row 1 (Right Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn – 39 sc. Rows 2-6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn – 39 sc. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first 15 sc, [Fpdc in corresponding st 2 rows below, skip next st on current row, sc in next 3 sc] 3 times, sc in remaining 12 sc, turn. Row 8: Repeat Row 2. Row 9: Ch 1, sc in first 16 sc, [Fpdc in next Fpdc, skip next sc of current row, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, sc in remaining 14 sc, turn. Row 10: Repeat Row 2. Row 11: Ch 1, sc in first 17 sc, [Fpdc in next Fpdc, skip next sc of current row, sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in remaining 16 sc, turn. Row 12: Repeat Row 2. Row 13 and 15: Ch 1, sc in first 18 sc, [Fpdc in next Fpdc, skip next sc of current row] 3 times, sc in remaining 18 sc, turn. Rows 14 and 16: Repeat Row 2. Row 17: Repeat Row 11. Row 18 and 20: Repeat Row 2. Row 19: Repeat Row 9. Row 21: Repeat Row 7. Rows 22 and 24: Repeat Row 2. Row 23: Ch 1, sc in first 14 sc, [Fpdc in corresponding st 2 Aran Nosegay Crochet rows below, skip next st on current row, sc in next 4 sc] 3 times, sc in remaining 10 sc, turn. Throw Rows 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37 and 39: Ch 1, sc in first 13 sc, [Fpdc in corresponding st 2 rows below, skip next st on current row, sc in next 5 sc] 3 times, sc in remaining 8 sc, WR1765 turn. Rows 26, 30, 34 and 38: Ch 1, sc in first 18 sts, Bobble in next st, sc in next st, Bobble in next st, sc in last 18 sts, Designed by Dorothy Warrell. turn. Rows 28, 32 and 36: Ch 1, sc in first 12 sts, Bobble in RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 8 skeins 313 Aran. next st, sc in next st, Bobble in next st, sc in next 9 sts, Crochet Hook 5.5 mm (US I-9). Bobble in next st, sc in next st, Bobble in next st, sc in last Yarn needle. 12 sts, turn. Row 40: Ch 1, sc in first 13 sts, Bobble in next st, sc in GAUGE: Motif = 14 ½” wide x 15” high “. 14 sc = 4”. 16 next 11 sts, Bobble in next st, sc in last 13 sts, turn. rows = 4”. CHECK YOUR GAUGE: Use any size hook to Row 41: Ch 1, sc in first 19 sts, Fpdc in next st, skip next obtain gauge. sc, sc in last 19 sts, turn. Row 42: Ch 1, sc in first 19 sts, Bobble in next st, sc in last THROW measures 48” x 67” 19 sts, turn.

Rows 43-48: Repeat Row 2. Do Not Fasten Off. BOWS Make 1 for each Motif. Motif Border Chain 60. Fasten off. Work around each Motif. Pull ends of chain through Throw on each side of stems at Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last st, 3 sc in last sc, point between Rows 13 and 15. Tie ends into a bow. turn to work along side edge, sc in each row end to last row, 3 sc in last row end, turn to work along opposite side of beginning ch, sc in each st across bottom working 3 sc RED HEART ® “Super Saver®”, Art. in last st, turn to work along opposite side edge, sc in each E300 available in solid color – 7oz (198g), row end, work 2 sc in same st as beginning sc, join with a 364yd (333m) or multi or fleck color – 5oz slip st to first sc, turn – 178 sc. (141g), 244yd (223m) skeins. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, [work sc, Bobble, sc] in next center st of corner, *sc in next st, [Bobble in next ABBREVIATIONS: dc = double crochet; Fpdc: Front post st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 15 times, Bobble in next st, sc double crochet; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet; in next st, [work sc, Bobble, sc) in next center st of corner, st(s) = stitch(es); tog = together; yo = yarn over needle; sc in next st, [Bobble in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 12 [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times times, **Bobble in next st, sc in next st [work sc, bobble, specified; * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as sc] in next center st of corner; repeat from * to ** one time, indicated. Bobble in last st, join with a slip st to first sc, turn. Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc in same st as joining and in each st Special Abbreviations: including Bobble ch-1] across to corner Bobble, skip ch -1, Bobble: [Yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 work 3 sc in Bobble, sc in each sc and ch-1 space around, times in same st, yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook, skipping ch-1 of corner Bobble and working 3 sc in corner ch 1. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Do not work any Bobble st, join with a slip st to first sc. stitches in the ch-1 of Bobble. Do Not Turn. Rnd 4 (Right Side): Ch 3, dc in first st to the right, * skip sc2tog (sc dec) Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. next st, dc in next st, ch 2, dc in skip st to the right; repeat Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, from * around, working 3 sc in each corner, join with a slip draw through all 3 loops on hook. st in first sc. Fasten off.

FINISHING Assembly Arrange Squares into 3 rows of 4 motifs each. With wrong sides facing, hold 2 Motifs together, sc in back loops of both pieces to join. Repeat to join Motifs together.

Border Rnd 1: With right side facing, join yarn in any st, sc evenly spaced around, working 3 sc in each corner, join with a slip st to first sc. Rnd 2: Repeat Rnd 2 of Motif Border. Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 3 of Motif Border.

Weave in ends.

FRINGE Cut 20” lengths of yarn. Knot 6 strands in corners and every 4th st along ends of afghan. [Knot 3 strands of each fringe with 3 stands of next fringe on either side] across. Repeat to make another row of knots. Trim fringe evenly.

How to Make a Gauge Swatch Ch 13. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across—12 sc. Rows 2-16: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across. Swatch should measure 4” square. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Note: To change colors, work last st of old color until 2 Pillow 1 loops remain on hook, drop old color to wrong side, yo with new color and draw through both loops on hook. When colors will be used again in same row, carry colors across wrong side, working over them every few sts across long Pillow 3 sections.

PILLOW Back With A, ch 53. Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across—52 sc. Rows 2-66: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across. At end of row 66, do not fasten off.

Back Edging Round 1 (right side): Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across row 66, rotate work, sc in edge of each row across left edge, Pillow 2 rotate work, sc in free loop of each ch across bottom, rotate work, sc in edge of each row across right edge; join with slip st in first sc—236 sc. Fasten off.

Front (Use B, C and D for Pillow 1; B, C, D and E for Pillow 2 or Desert Pillows B, C, D and F for Pillow 3) Starting with B, work same as Back using the appropriate CTSept08-44 chart for changing colors and direction of Rows. Rows numbered on right-hand side are worked with right side facing. Rows numbered on left-hand side are worked with Designed by Regina Rioux Gonzalez wrong side facing. In areas where consecutive Rows are worked on right side, fasten off first right side Row, then Finished Measurements: 18” square plus edging begin next right side Row (and each consecutive right side row) with sc in first sc on right side, fastening off each right RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 1 skein each 360 Café side Row until next area with alternating (right side, wrong A, 330 Linen B, 387 Soft Navy C, 378 Claret D, 656 Real side) Rows. Teal E, 406 Medium Thyme F. Front Edging Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9] Work same as Back Edging, matching edging colors with 18” Square pillow form for each pillow, yarn needle. colors used on Front. Carry along colors not in use at back of work. gauge: 12 sc and 16 sc rows = 4”. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. Assembly With wrong sides of Front and Back together and Front

facing, join A with slip st at top right-hand corner of Front. Note: When working Braided Edging, always make sure Working in back loops only of both thicknesses, sc in each chains are twisted in same direction around entire pillow. sc along 3 edges, securing them together. Insert pillow form. Sc in each remaining sc along last edge. Join with Finishing slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Braided Edging RED HEART® “Super Saver®”, Art. E300 With Front facing, join A with sc in first sc on any edge, available in solid colors – 7 oz (198 g), ch 4. Remove hook and allow ch sts to dangle at front 364 yd (333 m); multi colors – 5 oz of work. Skip next sc and join B with sc in next sc, ch 4. (141 g), 244 yd (223 m); flecks – 5 oz Remove hook and allow ch sts to dangle at front of work. (141 g), 260 yd (238 m) skeins. *Place A loop back on hook. Skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 4. Remove hook and allow ch sts to dangle at front of ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, etc = Color A, Color B, etc.; work. Place B loop back on hook. Skip next sc, sc in next ch(s) = chain(s); sc = single crochet; sl st = slip stitch; sc, ch 4. Remove hook and allow ch sts to dangle at front st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; * = Repeat directions of work. Repeat from * around. Place A loop back on hook following * as many times as indicated. and join with slip st in first A sc. Fasten off A. Place B loop back on hook and join with slip st in firstB sc. Fasten off B. SOUTHWEST PILLOW SOUTHWEST PILLOW DIAGRAM 1 DIAGRAM 2 CHART 1 CHART 2

Pillow 1 Pillow 2 66 66 65 65 64 64 63 63 62 62 61 61 60 60 59 59 58 58 57 57 56 56 55 55 54 54 53 53 52 52 51 51 50 50 49 49 48 48 47 47 46 46 45 45 44 44 43 43 42 42 41 41 40 40 39 39 38 38 37 37 36 36 35 35 34 34 33 33 32 32 31 31 30 30 29 29 28 28 27 27 26 26 25 25 24 24 23 23 22 22 21 21 20 20 19 19 18 18 17 17 16 16 15 15 14 14 13 13 12 12 11 11 10 10 9 9 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 CHART 1 CHART 2

©2010 Coats & Clark For more ideas & inspiration — P.O. Box 12229 www.redheart.com www.coatsandclark.com Greenville, SC 29612-0229 www.crochettoday.com SOUTHWEST PILLOW SOUTHWEST PILLOW DIAGRAM 4 DIAGRAM 3 CHART KEY CHART 3 www.redheart.com

Pillow 3 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 CHART KEY 38 37 = Linen (B) 36 35 34 = Navy (C) 33 32 = Rust (D) 31 30 = Teal (E) 29 28 27 = Medium Thyme (F) 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 CHART 3

How to Make a Gauge Swatch With any color, ch 14. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across—13 sc. Rows 2-15: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across. Swatch should measure approx 4” square. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notes 1. When working with multiple color sections across a row, do not carry colors under sts. Instead, make bobbins (small, separate balls of yarn) for each color section, and join them as needed. 2. To change colors, work last st of old color until 2 loops remaining on hook, yo with new color and draw through both loops on hook. Drop old color to wrong side of work to be picked up again on next row. 3. Fasten off any colors not being used on next row.

THROW With A, ch 138. Row 1 (wrong side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—137 sc (Row 1 of chart complete). Rows 2-64: Work in sc and dc following chart. Work all even-numbered rows from A to B, then work from C to B once, then work from C to D, turn. Work all odd-numbered rows from D to C, then work from B to C, then work from B to A, turn. Rows 65-172: Repeat Rows 11-64 twice. Rows 173-182: Repeat Rows 11-20. Sunset Throw Row 183: With A, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across. Rows 184-192: Repeat Rows 2-10. At end of Row 192, CTSept08-53 fasten off.

Finishing Designed by Marianne Forrestal. Weave in all ends.

Finished Measurements: 42” x 60” RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: Art. E300 RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 3 skeins 330 Linen A, 1 available in solid color 7 oz (198 g), skein 320 Cornmeal B, 2 skeins 360 Café C, 1 skein 332 364 yd (333 m); multi color, fleck and print Ranch Red D, 1 skein 656 Real Teal E 5 oz (141 g), 244 yd (223 m) skeins.

Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9] Yarn needle ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, etc. = Color A, Color B, etc.; ch(s) = chain(s); dc = double crochet; sc = single crochet; gauge: 13 sc and 15 sc rows = 4”. 13 dc and 4.5 dc rows st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; * = Repeat directions = 4”. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to following * as many times as indicated; [ ] = Repeat obtain the gauge. directions inside brackets as many times as indicated.

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64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 REPEAT 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 SOUTHWEST19 AFGHAN 18 DIAGRAM 2 17 CHART KEY 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

BD CHART C A

CHART KEY

= sc in Linen (A) = dc in Cornmeal (B) = sc in Cornmeal (B) = sc in Cafe (C) = dc in Cafe (C) = sc in Ranch Red (D) = dc in Dusty Teal (E) = sc in Dusty Teal (E)

©2010 Coats & Clark For more ideas & inspiration — P.O. Box 12229 www.redheart.com www.coatsandclark.com Greenville, SC 29612-0229 www.crochettoday.com Special Abbreviation PC (picot cluster) = (sc, ch 3, slip st in 3rd ch from hook, sc) all st or space indicated.

SCARF Ch 29. Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across; turn – 27 sts.

Row 2: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in each dc across and in top of ch-3; turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next dc, [ch 5, skip next 3 dc, PC in next dc] 5 times, ch 5, skip next 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc in top of ch-3; turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next dc, [PC in next ch-5 space; ch 5] 5 times, PC in last ch-5 space, dc in next dc and in top of ch-3; turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next dc, [ch 5, PC in next ch-5 space] 5 times, ch 5, dc in next dc and in top of ch-3; turn.

Rows 6-139: Repeat Rows 4 and 5.

Row 140: Ch 3, skip first dc, dc in next dc, [4 dc in next ch-5 space] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-5 space, [4 dc in next ch-5 space] twice, dc in next dc and in top of ch-3; turn – 27 sts.

Row 141: Repeat Row 2; do NOT turn.

Capri Scarf EDGING/FRINGE Round 1: Ch 1, with right side still facing pivot to work LC2006 down long edge; (sc, hdc, sc) all in first row end of long edge for corner, * work 2 sc in each row end across long edge; (sc, hdc, sc) all in first st of short edge for corner; [ch 20, (sc, ch 5, sc, ch 5, sc) all in 5th ch from hook, slip st in back bump of next 15 ch, sc in next 2 sts] 13 times **; Designed by Darla J. Fanton. (hdc, sc) all in same st as last sc for corner; repeat from * once more, end at **; join with a slip st in first sc. Fasten Scarf measures 6” x 60” excluding fringe. off. Weave in ends.

AUNT LYDIA’S® “Bamboo Size 3 Thread”: 3 balls 846 Cruise Blue. AUNT LYDIA’S® “Bamboo Crochet Thread,” Size 3, Art. 147 available in 150 yd (135 m) balls. (100% Viscose Crochet Hook: 3.5mm [US E-4]. from Bamboo) Yarn needle. ABBREVIATIONS: ch = chain; dc = double crochet; GAUGE: 17 sts = 4”; 10 rows = 4” in dc. CHECK YOUR hdc = half double crochet; mm = millimeters; rnd = round; GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified.

buttons* or plastic safety eyes*; Optional ribbon: plastic pellets and knee-high hose for making pellet packet.

* Do not use buttons or safety eyes for children under 2 years of age, embroider eyes instead.

GAUGE: 20 sc = 4”; 16 rounds = 4” in sc. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Special Abbreviations inc (increase) = 2 sc in next sc. dec (decrease) = [draw up a loop in next st] twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

POODLE Head (Begin at nose) Work in continuous rounds without joining. Mark beginning of round. Move marker up each round. Round 1: With C and smaller hook, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Round 2: [Inc] 6 times – 12 sc. Rounds 3 and 4: Sc in each sc around. Round 5: Dec, sc in next 9 sc, slip st in next sc – 11 sts. Fasten off. Stuff with black yarn remnants to prevent stuffing show-through. Round 6: Join B in any st; ch 1, [inc, sc in next sc] 5 times, inc – 17 sc. Round 7: Sc in each sc around. Round 8: Inc, sc in next 8 sc, inc, sc in next 7 sc – 19 sc. Round 9: Inc, sc in next 9 sc, inc, sc in next 8 sc – 21 sc. Round 10: Inc, sc in next 10 sc, inc, sc in next 9 sc – 23 sc. Round 11: Inc, sc in next 11 sc, inc, sc in next 10 sc – 25 sc. Pomp-a-Poodle Round 12: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times – 30 sc. Round 13: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times – 36 sc. WR2157 Round 14: Sc in each sc around. Round 15: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times – 42 sc. Round 16: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times – 48 sc. Designed by Nancy Anderson. Round 17: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] 6 times – 54 sc. Rounds 18-23: Sc in each sc around. Poodle measures 13” tall x 12” from nose to end Round 24: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] 6 times – 60 sc. (excluding tail). Round 25: Sc in each sc around. Round 26: [Dec, sc in next 4 sc] 10 times – 50 sc. RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 1 skein each 373 Petal Round 27: [Dec, sc in next 3 sc] 10 times – 40 sc. Pink A, 316 Soft White B, and 312 Black C. Round 28: [Dec, sc in next 2 sc] 10 times – 30 sc. Stuff head firmly, continuing as rounds are worked. RED HEART® “Pomp-a-Doodle™”: 1 ball 9785 Cotton Round 29: [Dec, sc in next sc] 10 times – 20 sc. Candy Pink D. Round 30: Sc in each sc around. Finish stuffing head. Round 31: [Dec] 10 times – 10 sc. Crochet Hooks: 3.75mm [US F-5], 5mm [US H-8]. Round 32: [Dec] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off, weaving yarn Yarn needle, stitch marker, black embroidery floss, tail through sc to close hole. polyester filler, strong hand-sewing thread and needle,

Body (Beginning at rear end) Round 18: Sc in each sc around. Round 1: Using A and smaller hook, ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch Round 19: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 5 times – 30 sc. from hook. Round 20: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 5 times – 35 sc. Round 2: [Inc] 6 times – 12 sc. Round 21: [Dec, sc in next 5 sc] 5 times – 30 sc. Round 3: [Inc, sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc. Round 22: [Dec] 15 times – 15 sc. Round 4: [Inc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times – 24 sc. Finish stuffing. Round 5: [Inc, sc in next 3 sc] 6 times – 30 sc. Round 23: [Dec] 7 times, sc in next sc – 8 sc. Round 6: [Inc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times – 36 sc. Round 24: [Dec] 4 times – 4 sc. Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times – 42 sc. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Repeat for other legs. Round 8: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times – 48 sc. Round 9: Sc in each sc around. Pomp-a-Doodle™ yarn is worked in the thread between Round 10: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] 6 times – 54 sc. the pompons. Do not pull pompons through stitches. See Round 11: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] 6 times – 60 sc. Red Heart video tutorial at http://www.redheart.com/ for Rounds 12 and 13: Sc in each sc around. more information on working with Pomp-a-Doodle™. Round 14-Back Leg Openings: Sc in next 3 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 35 Leg Pouf sc –56 sts. Round 1: Join D in any slip st of Round 15; sc in each slip Rounds 15-23: Sc in each ch and sc around – 56 sc. st around leg. Round 24-Front Leg Openings: Sc in next 3 sc, ch 8, Round 2: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off. skip 10 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 8, skip 10 sc, sc in next 31 sc – 54 sts. Round 25: Inc, sc in next 24 sts, inc, sc in next 28 sts – 56 sc. Neck Rounds 26 and 27: Sc in each sc around. Round 1: Attach A to any sc in neck opening; ch 1, sc in Round 28-Neck Opening: Sc in next 39 sc, ch 10, skip 10 each ch and sc around inc 6 sts evenly spaced – 26 sc. sc, sc in next 7 sc – 56 sts. Rounds 2-7: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off leaving yarn Round 29: Sc in each ch and sc around – 56 sc. tail for attaching head. Stuff poodle body as rounds are worked. Round 30: [Sc in next 6 sc, dec] 7 times – 49 sc. Ribbed Sweater Collar Round 31: Sc in next sc, [dec, sc in next 4 sc] 8 times – Row 1: Ch 7; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch 41 sc. across; turn – 6 sc. Round 32: Sc in next sc, [dec] 20 times – 21 sc. Rows 2-21: Ch 1, sc in back loops only in each sc across; Continue to stuff body. turn. Fasten off leaving long tail for attaching to neck. Round 33: Sc in next sc, [dec] 10 times – 11 sc. Round 34: Sc in next sc, [dec] 5 times – 6 sc. Edging: Join D in end of any row of collar; slip st evenly Round 35: [Dec] 3 times – 3 sc. across row ends (about 12 pompoms). Fasten off. Fasten off, weaving yarn tail through sc to close hole.

Tail Legs (Make 4) With smaller hook and A, ch 4; join with a slip st to form a Round 1: Join B to any st in leg opening; ch 1, sc in each ring. ch and sc around inc 3 sts evenly spaced – 21 sc. Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring; do not join; work in continuous Rounds 2-14: Sc in each sc around, changing to A in the rounds. last st of the last round. Fasten off B. Rounds 2-12: Work even in sc. Fasten off A in last sc. Round 15: With A, slip st loosely at base of each sc Round 13: Join D in any sc; slip st (1 pompom per slip st) around (this will be the foundation for applying leg pouf). in each sc around. Round 16: Sc in each sc of Round 14 around – 21 sc. Round 14: * 2 Slip sts in next slip st, slip st in next slip st; Stuff upper section of leg. If using plastic pellets to add repeat from * around. weight to poodle, place about ¼ cup in the toe of a knee- Round 15: Slip st in every other st around. Fasten off. high stocking, cut and tightly knot. Stuff this into bottom- most parts needing extra weight, finish stuffing with polyester filler. Round 17: Sc in next sc, [inc, sc in next 4 sc] 4 times – 25 sc.

Ears (Make 2) Round 7: [Dec] 6 times – 6 sc. With smaller hook and B, ch 12; join with a slip st to form Round 8: [Dec] 3 times – 3 sc. Fasten off. a ring. Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around; do not join – 12 sc. Ribbon is attached by weaving the tip of the ribbon Rounds 2-6: Sc in each sc around. between a few D sts, pulling through with even lengths and Round 7: [Inc, sc in next 5 sc] twice – 14 sc. tying into a bow. Tighten and trim ends. Rounds 8 and 9: Sc in each sc around. Round 10: [Inc, sc in next 6 sc] twice – 16 sc. Blushed Cheeks Round 11: Sc in each sc around. Use dark powder blush and extra large makeup brush or Round 12: [Inc, sc in next 7 sc] twice – 18 sc. stencil brush. Load makeup onto brush as if to apply to Round 13: [Inc, sc in next 8 sc] twice – 20 sc. face, tapping off excess. Locate cheek area on Head and Round 14: Sc in each sc around. apply using a tamping or pouncing motion. To do this, hold Round 15: [Inc, sc in next 9 sc] twice – 22 sc. the brush straight and perpendicular to the poodles’ face. Rounds 16 and 17: Sc in each sc around. Tap the brush end onto the desired location; do not use Round 18: [Dec, sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next sc – 15 sc. a brushing or sweeping motion. Apply blush in layered Round 19: [Dec, sc in next sc] 5 times – 10 sc. stages until desired effect is achieved. Round 20: [Dec] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off, using long tail to close hole.

Ear Pouf RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: Round 1: Starting at the tip of the ear at Round 18, slip st Art. E300 available in solid color 7 oz D into stitches around the ear tip. (198 g), 364 yd (333 m); multi color, fleck Round 2: Slip st in each slip st around. Fill in bare spots & print 5 oz (141 g), 244 yd (223 m) skeins. with D as needed. Fasten off. RED HEART® “Pomp-a-Doodle™” Art. E765 available in 3.5 oz (100 g), FINISHING 54 yd (50 m) balls. Sew head, tail, and sweater collar to body as in photo, using long yarn tails. Make certain parts are securely attached. Sew ears to head leaving approximately 4” ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, C, D = color A, B, C, D; diameter circle free between ears at top of head. ch = chain; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; * or ** = repeat whatever Locate eye placement. Using black embroidery thread, follows the * or ** as indicated; [ ] = work directions in sew 3 lines for eyelashes as shown. Attach buttons brackets the number of times specified. securely, overlapping the eyelashes a little OR embroider eyes if toy is to be used for children under 2 years of age.

Head Pouf Add after ears have been attached and head has been sewn to neck. Round 1: Beginning at the crown of the head where the ears are attached, with larger hook and B, loosely work 25 slip sts into the sts of the Head in a circle about 4” diameter. This circle should be placed directly on top of the head, evenly spaced in conjunction with the ears. Round 2: With D and larger hook, sc in each st around. Round 3: Inc, [sc in next sc, inc] 12 times – 38 sc. Round 4: Sc in next 2 sc, [dec, sc in next 2 sc] 9 times – 29 sc. Round 5: [Dec, sc in next 3 sc] 5 times, dec, sc in last 2 sc – 23 sc. Round 6: Sc in next sc, [dec] 11 times – 12 sc.

BUTTONS (Make 2) Round 1 With crochet hook, ch 2, work 6 sc in first ch, slip st to first st to join. Round 2 Ch 3, work 3 hdc in same st, [dc, 3 hdc] in each st around. Round 3 Ch 1, sc in same st, [skip 1 st, sc in next st] around, slip st in first sc to join. Round 4 Repeat Round 3. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach BUTTON.

FINISHING Sew BUTTONS on BAND opposite Buttonholes, using yarn tail for stitching.

BASIC CROCHETED BUTTON designed by Teresa Chorzepa

This is a simple button pattern that creates a harmonized classic look on vests. The button is pliable so that it easily passes through the buttonhole. HELPFUL BUTTON TIPS A contrasting yarn color will call greater • A button-spacer can guide you in the attention to the button and provide a placement of the buttons to customize your fresh, fun look to any vest. garment’s fit. • Using a simple shirting button on the MATERIALS reverse side of the button band will both • Yarn to match or contrast with the anchor the decorative button in place and yarn used to make vest help it to lay flat. It will also prevent pulled • Crochet hook in the gauge stitches or gapping. recommended on yarn label • Remember that a button is like any NOTES: For this project, Water Mill Vest, accessory – it can make or break the look Tahki Yarns Donegal Tweed, color #882 of your outfit. goldenrod & H-8 hook were used. Water Mill • You can dress a vest or cardigan up or Vest pattern may be found in Seaside Tweed, th down – or make it look brand new – simply Tahki Tweed 4 Edition. by changing the buttons. www.tahkistacycharles.com © 2010 Tahki Stacy Charles, Inc. www.redheart.com

GAUGE: One 24 st repeat = 5 3/4”; 5 rows = 4” in pattern. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS: 3dcCL (3 dc cluster) = [yo and draw up a loop in next ch or st or space, yo and draw through 2 loops] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

5dcCL (5 dc cluster) = [yo and draw up a loop in next ch or st or space, yo and draw through 2 loops] 5 times, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook.

NOTE: When changing color, work last st of row until 2 loops are left on hook, drop old color, yo with new color and complete stitch. Fasten off old color.

Color Sequence: [1 row A, 1 row B, 1 row A, 1 row C, 1 row B, 1 row C, 1 row D, 1 row B, 1 row D] 8 times, 1 row A, 1 row B, 1 row A.

THROW: With A, ch 197. Row 1: Yo and draw up a loop in 4th ch from hook, yo and draw through 2 loops, [yo and draw up a loop in next ch, yo and draw through 2 loops] twice, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook, * dc in next 9 ch, 5 dc in next ch, dc in next 9 ch **, 5dcCL over next 5 ch; repeat from * to last 4 ch, end at **; 3dcCL over next 3 ch, dc in last ch changing Evening Ease to B; turn. Ripple Throw Row 2: Ch 3, skip first dc, 3dcCL over next 3 sts, * [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, skip next st, 5 dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, WR1851 skip next st **, 5dcCL over next 5 sts; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end at **; 3dcCL over next 3 sts, dc in top of ch-3 changing to next color; turn. Designed by Marianne Forrestal. Row 3: Ch 3, skip first dc, 3dcCL over next 3 sts or ch-1 Throw measures 61” x 46”. spaces, * dc in next 9 sts or ch-1 spaces, 5 dc in next st, dc in next 9 dc or ch-1 spaces **, 5dcCL over next 5 sts or RED HEART® “Fiesta®”: 2 Skeins each of 6382 ch-1 spaces; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end at **; 3dcCL Country Blue A, 6635 Coffee B, 6334 Buff C, and 6250 over next 3 sts or ch-1 spaces, dc in top of ch-3 changing Cornmeal D. to next color; turn.

Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]. Row 4: Ch 3, skip first dc, 3dcCL over next 3 sts, * dc in Yarn needle. next 9 sts, 5 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts **, 5dcCL over next 5 sts; repeat from * to last 4 sts, end at **; 3dcCL over next 3 sts, dc in top of ch-3 changing to next color; turn.

Rows 5-75: Repeat Rows 2-4 twenty three times, then repeat Rows 2 and 3 once more. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

RED HEART® “Fiesta®”, Art. E704 available in 6oz (170g), 316 yd (289m) skeins.

ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, etc = color A, B, etc; ch = chain; dc = double crochet; mm = millimeters; st(s) = stitch (es); yo = yarn over; * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated; [] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified.

NOTES: The ends and center sections of the scarf are worked in the double-ended hook technique. The pick-up action and work-off action are listed as two separate rows.

The Keyhole sections are worked in Tunisian Crochet where the pick-up and work-off actions comprise one row. A row is complete when you have one stitch remaining on the hook.

When working in horizontal stitches, insert hook under top loop only.

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS: Horiz = horizontal Vert = vertical TKS = Tunisian Knit Stitch – Insert hook from front to back between vertical strands of same st, yo and draw through keeping loop on hook.

NECK WARMER With A, ch 3. Row 1: Working in bump on wrong side of ch, pick up loop in 2nd ch from hook and remaining ch; slide loops to opposite end of hook and turn – 3 loops on hook.

Row 2: Place slip knot of B on left end of hook; draw slip knot through first loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops] twice; 1 loop of B remains. DO NOT TURN.

Row 3: Pick up loop in first horiz st, pick up loop under Bow Tie Neck Warmer next vert bar, pick up loop in next horiz st, pick up loop under final vert bar; slide loops to opposite end of hook WR2033 and turn – 5 loops.

Row 4: Pick up A, yo, draw through 1 loop; * yo, draw Designed by Darla J. Fanton. through 2 loops; repeat from * across until 1 loop of A remains. DO NOT TURN. Scarf measures 4¾” wide x 31” long.

RED HEART® “Soft Yarn®: 1 ball each 9440 Lt Grey Row 5: Pick up loop in first horiz st, pick up loop under Heather A, 9520 Seafoam B. next vert bar, pick up loop in each horiz st until 2 vert bars remain, pick up loop under next vert bar, pick up Crochet Hooks: 6.5mm [US K-10½] – 10” double-ended loop under final horiz st, skip final vert bar; slide loops to crochet hook; 6.5 mm [US K-10½] standard hook (used for opposite end of hook and turn – 7 loops. edging only). Two stitch holders (at least 4” length), tapestry needle. Rows 6-19: Repeat Rows 4-5, alternating two rows of A and two rows of B – 21 sts at end of Row 19. GAUGE: 19 sts = 4”; 24 rows = 4” in double hook pattern. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain Row 20: Repeat Row 4. the gauge.

Row 21: Pick up a loop in each horiz st; slide loops to Rows 159-168: Repeat Rows 21-22 alternating two rows opposite end of hook and turn – 21 loops. of A and two rows of B.

Row 22: Repeat 4 with B. Row 169: Skip 1st horiz st, pick up loop in each horiz st until 2 remain; skip next horiz st, pick up loop in final horiz Row 23-30: Repeat Rows 21-22, alternating two rows of A st; slide loops to opposite end of hook and turn – 19 loops. and two rows of B. Row 170: Repeat Row 4. DIVIDE FOR KEYHOLE-Row 31: * Pick up loop in next horiz st, transfer loop to stitch holder, pick up loop in next Rows 171-184: Repeat rows 169-170; noting two fewer horiz st holding it on hook; repeat from * keeping st holder loops on hook each pick-up row – 5 loops at end of Row 183. to the back of work. DO NOT TURN – 11 B sts on hook, 10 B sts on holder Row 185: Skip first horiz st, slip st in next horiz st, skip next horiz st, slip st in final horiz st; transfer final loop of A Row 32: Working only sts on hook, yo, draw through one to standard hook for edging. Fasten off B. loop, * yo, draw through 2 loops; repeat from * across; drop B, ch 1 with A. Edging: Ch 1, turn so predominantly A side is facing; working in ends of rows, sc evenly around working through Row 33: TKS in each st across – 11 sts. top thickness only of keyhole section, join with slip st in Row 33 Return: Yo, draw through 1 loop; *yo, draw beginning sc. Fasten off. Weave in yarn ends. through 2 loops; repeat from * across until 1 loop remains; DO NOT TURN. RED HEART® “Soft Yarn” Art. E728 Rows 34-40 Return: Repeat Row 33 and Row 33 Return. available in solid 5 oz (140 g), 256 yd (234 m); print 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd Row 41: TKS in each st across, transfer loops to 2nd stitch (187 m) balls. holder.

Work 2nd half of 1st keyhole: Turn work, place loops from ABBREVIATIONS: A, B = color A, B; ch = chain; 1st st holder on hook making sure B yarn is to the left. mm = millimeters; st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated; Repeat Rows 32 – 41 on 10 sts with B. [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified. Rejoin sts: Holding work so st holder with 11 sts is closest to you, replace loops on hook beginning with 1st st at right edge of front holder and alternating 1 st from each holder. 21 sts on hook, one strand of yarn at each edge of work.

Row 42: Repeat Row 4 with A, drop A, ch 1 with B.

Rows 43-146: Repeat Rows 21-22, alternating two rows of A and two rows of B.

DIVIDE FOR KEYHOLE-Row 147: Repeat Row 31.

Rows 148-157: Repeat Rows 32-41.

Work 2nd half of 2nd keyhole as for first through Rejoining Sts.

Row 158: Repeat Row 42.

GAUGE 9 sts and 18 rows = 4”/10 cm in Garter stitch TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

NOTES: This triangular shawl is worked from the bottom up. The yarn over increases are made 2 stitches from each side edge. Decorative slanted eyelet lines radiate from the center, forming internal triangles. You can make this shawl as long or as short as you wish by working more or fewer repeats of the radiating eyelets (you will need more yarn for a larger shawl).

SHAWL Cast on 2 sts. Row 1 and all odd number rows (WS) Knit. Row 2 (RS) K2. Row 4 K1-f/b, k1 – 3 sts. Row 6 K1, K1-f/b, k1 – 4 sts. Row 8 K2, yo, k2 – 5 sts. Row 10 K2, yo, k1, yo, k2 – 7 sts. Row 12 K2, yo, k3, yo, k2 – 9 sts. Row 14 K2, yo, k5, yo, k2 – 11 sts. Row 16 K2, yo, k7, yo, k2 – 13 sts.

Row 18 K2, yo, k9, yo, k2 – 15 sts. Row 20 K2, yo, k11, yo, k2 – 17 sts. FLYING GEESE SHAWL Row 22 K2, yo, k6, yo, k2tog, k5 yo, k2 – designed by Charlotte Quiggle 19 sts. Row 24 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2 – 21 sts. Row 26 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, SIZE k5, yo, k2 – 23 sts. One size Row 28 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2 – 25 sts. KNITTED MEASUREMENTS Row 30 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, Length to Tip: 30”/76 cm k5, yo, k2 – 27 sts. Width: 60”/152.5 cm Row 32 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k9, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2 – 29 sts. MATERIALS Row 34 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k11, yo, k2tog, • 7 balls Tahki Yarns PRESTO 45% wool, k5, yo, k2 – 31 sts. 46% acrylic, 3% nylon, 3% mohair Row 36 K2, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k6, (yo, k2tog, (1.75oz/50g; 60yds/55m) in color #01 k5) twice, yo, k2 – 33 sts. tapioca Row 38 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k1, (yo, • One size 15 (10mm) circular needle, k2tog, k5) twice, yo, k2 – 35 sts. 29”/73.5cm or longer Row 40 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k3, (yo, OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE k2tog, k5) twice, yo, k2 – 37 sts. • Yarn needle Row 42 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k5, (yo, k2tog, k5) twice, yo, k2 – 39 sts. www.tahkistacycharles.com © 2009 Tahki Stacy Charles, Inc.

Row 44 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k7, (yo, sets of 7 sts radiating from each side of k2tog, k5) twice, yo, k2 – 41 sts. center. Row 46 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k9, (yo, On the last repeat, do not split the center k2tog, k5) twice, yo, k2 – 43 sts. with a yo when you have 11 sts between Row 48 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k11, the center 2 yo’s, but continue until you (yo, k2tog, k5) twice, yo, k2 – 45 sts. have 19 sts between the center 2 yo’s. Row 50 K2, yo, (k5, ssk, yo) twice, k6, (yo, (RS) K2, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2. k2tog, k5) 3 times, yo, k2 – 47 sts. Knit 1 row. Continue working in this manner, repeating Rep last 2 rows 3 more times. Rows 37-50 4 more times, but working 1 Bind off all sts very loosely. more 7-st “radiating section” at each side each time you split the center with a yo (as FINISHING on Rows 22, 36, and 50), until you have 7 Block Shawl to measurements. Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS SPECIAL TERMS

inc increase K1-f/b: Knit 1 front and back (inc) – Knit

k knit next st, then knit it tbl.

p purl K2tog: Knit 2 together (dec) – Knit 2 sts

RS right side tog through the front loops.

st(s) stitch(es) Ssk: Slip, slip, knit (dec) – Slip 2 sts,

tog together one at a time KNITWISE to right-hand

WS wrong side needle, return the sts to left-hand needle

yo yarn over in the turned position and knit them

together through the back loops.

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Dc2tog cluster: Working into same st throughout, [yo and draw up a loop in next st, yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook. Dc3tog cluster: Working into same st throughout, [yo and draw up a loop in next st, yo and pull through 2 loops] 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

FIRST MOTIF With A, ch 5, join with a slip st to form a ring. Round 1: Ch 3, dc2tog cluster in first ch, ch 3, [dc3tog cluster in next ch, ch 3] 5 times; join with a slip st in top of first group. Round 2: * Ch 1, in ch-3 space work (sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc, hdc, sc); repeat from * 5 times more; join with a slip st into ch-1 space at beginning of round. Round 3: In same ch-1 space work (ch 5, tr), ch 3, in next ch-2 space work *(sc, ch 3, sc – CORNER), ch 3, in ch-1 space work (tr, ch 1, tr) ch 3; repeat from * 4 times more, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-2 space, ch 3; join with a slip st in 4th ch of beginning ch-5, fasten off.

1 SIDE JOINED—SECOND MOTIF With A complete Rounds 1 and 2 as for First Motif. Round 3: * In ch-1 space work (ch 5, tr), ch 3, in next ch-2 space work (sc, ch 3, sc – CORNER), ch 3, in ch-1 space work (tr, ch 1, tr), ch 3, in next ch-2 space with WS tog, sc in ch-2 space, ch 1, sc in CORNER of First Motif, ch 1, sc in same ch-2 space of motif being made, ** ch 3, in next ch-1 space work tr, sc in ch-1 space between treble crochets of First Motif, tr in same ch-1 space of motif being Multi Motif Scarf made, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 space, ch 1, *** sc in CORNER of First Motif, ch 1, sc in same ch-2 space of motif being WR2168 made; complete as for First Motif. 2 SIDES JOINED — THIRD MOTIF Designed by Mary Jane Protus. With appropriate color, work Rounds 1 and 2 as for First Motif. Scarf measures 6½” x 70”. Round 3: Repeat from * to *** of Second Motif once, sc in joining sc, ch 1, sc in same ch-2 space of motif being RED HEART® “Heart & Sole® with Aloe”: 3 balls 3955 made; repeat from ** to *** once, sc in CORNER of Mellow Stripe A, 1 ball 3935 Tequila Sunrise B. finished Motif, ch 1, sc in same ch-2 space of motif being made; complete as for First Motif. Crochet Hook: 4mm [US G-6]. Yarn needle. Continue to join motifs as shown, alternating rows of 2 motifs in A and rows of 1 motif in B until 12 B motifs GAUGE: Motif = 3¼” across before joining. CHECK YOUR are completed and piece begins and ends with a row of GAUGE. Use any hook to obtain the gauge. 2 A motifs. Work all B motifs as for Third Motif; work A motifs as for either Second or Third Motif depending on placement and the number of sides to be joined.

HALF MOTIF (make 24, all in A) With A, ch 4; join with a slip st to form a ring. RED HEART® “Heart & Sole® with Row 1 (Wrong Side): Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), Aloe”, Art. E745 available in solid color working into next ch [dc3tog cluster, ch 3] 2 times, dc3tog and multi color 1.76 oz (50 g), 213 yd cluster into next ch, ch 2, dc into last ch; turn. (195 m) balls. Row 2 (Right Side): Ch 5, in ch-2 space work (tr, dc, hdc, sc), ch 1, in ch-3 space work [(sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc, hdc, sc), ch 1] 2 times, in next space work (sc, hdc, dc, tr, ABBREVIATIONS: A, B = Color A, Color B, etc; ch 1, tr ); turn. DO NOT FASTEN OFF. ch = chain; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet; Place Half Motif in back of joined strip of motifs along side st(s) = stitch(es); tr = treble crochet; yo = yarn over; of a B motif with Right Side facing, work all joining sc from * or ** or *** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** or *** as finished motif to Half Motif along sides. indicated; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times indicated. Row 3 (Joining): Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in CORNER of finished motif, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 space, * ch 3, tr in ch-1 space of Half Motif being made, sc in ch-1 space between treble crochets of finished motif, tr in same space on Half Motif being made, ch 3, sc in ch-2 space, ch 1 ***, sc in joining sc, ch 1, sc in same space on Half Motif being made **; repeat from * to ** once; repeat from * to *** once; sc in CORNER, ch 1, sc top of tr, fasten off.

Continue to join all remaining Half Motifs, filling in on each side of all B motifs.

Border Round 1: With Right Side facing and A, join with sc in middle of scarf, work sc evenly along side to end, adding sc in corners along ends to make scarf lay flat, continue around; join with a slip st in first sc; turn. Round 2 (Wrong Side): Ch 1, sc in each sc; join with a slip st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

cl (cluster) = [Yarn over, insert hook in specified st or space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times; yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

THROW Triangle 1 (make 52) With A, ch 4; join with slip st to form a ring. Round 1 (right side): Work beginning cl in ring, [ch 3, cl in ring] 5 times, ch 3; join with slip st in top of beginning cl—6 cl and 6 ch-3 spaces. Fasten off. Round 2: With right side facing, join B with slip st in any ch-3 space, ch 3 (counts as dc); *(3 dc, ch 3, tr, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 space, skip next cl**; (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-3 space; repeat from * 2 more times, ending last repeat at **; (dc, ch 1) in next ch-3 space; join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-3—3 tr, 24 dc, 6 ch-3 spaces and 3 ch-1 spaces. Fasten off. Round 3: With right side facing, join A with slip st in any ch-1 space, ch 3 (counts as dc); *dc in next 4 dc, 4 dc in next ch-3 space, ch 5, 4 dc in next ch-3 space, dc in next 4 dc**; dc in next ch-1 space; repeat from * 2 more times, ending last repeat at **; join—51 dc and 3 ch-5 spaces. Fasten off. Round 4: With right side facing, join B with slip st in any ch-5 space, ch 1, (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in same ch-5 space Angular Granny Throw as joining, sc in next 17 dc; [(3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in next ch-5 space, sc in next 17 dc] twice; join with slip st in first CTMar09-70 sc—69 sc and 3 corner ch-2 spaces. Fasten off.

Triangle 2 (make 52) Designed by Joyce Nordstrom. Work same as Triangle 1, except use B for Rounds 1 and 3 and A for Rounds 2 and 4. Finished Measurements: Approx 51” x 57” Assembly RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 4 skeins 631 Light Sage A Join motifs into 8 rows of 13 triangles, alternating RED HEART® “Fiesta”: 4 skeins 6350 Horizon B Triangles 1 and 2, starting and ending with Triangle 1 in 4 rows and Triangle 2 in other 4 rows as follows: With right Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9] sides of 2 adjacent triangles together, working through Yarn needle both thicknesses, join with slip st in back loop of first sc on edge, slip st in back loop of each sc across. Fasten off. gauge: Motif = 6½” diameter (7¼” along each side). Join rows together in same manner, alternating rows and CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain joining points of center triangles where 6 triangles meet the gauge. with slip st in ch-2 spaces on point of center triangles.

Special Abbreviations Edging beginning cl (beginning cluster) = Ch 3, [yarn over, Round 1: With right side facing, join A with slip st in first insert hook in specified st or space and draw up a loop, unjoined sc on first triangle on Row 1 in top right-hand yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice; yarn corner, ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, ch 1. Work as over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. follows: Skip every even-numbered sc on long edges of triangles. Work (sc, ch 1) in every odd-numbered sc on

www.redheart.com long edges of triangles (12 sc and 12 ch-1 spaces along long edge of each triangle); work (sc, ch 1) in corner ch-2 space of center triangle where 3 triangles are joined 1 1 1 1 1 1 (along top and bottom edges); work (sc, ch 1) in each 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 corner ch-2 space where 2 triangles are joined (outer corners at 4 corners of afghan and along left and right 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 edges of joined Rows 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6, 7 and 8); 2 2 2 2 2 2 work (sc, ch 1) in joining of center joined triangles where 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 triangles are joined (inner corners along left and right 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 edges of joined Rows 2 and 3, 4 and 5, 6 and 7); join with 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 slip st in first sc. 2 2 2 2 2 2 Rounds 2 and 3: Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space; *ch 1, skip 1 1 1 1 1 1 next sc, sc in next ch-1 space; repeat from * around; ch 1, 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 skip next sc; join. At end of Round 3, fasten off. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Finishing 2 2 2 2 2 2 Weave in all ends. 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: Art. E300 2 2 2 2 2 2 available in solid color 7 oz (198 g), 364 yd (333 m); multi color, fleck and print 5 oz ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM (141 g), 244 yd (223 m) skeins.

RED HEART® “Fiesta”, Art. E704 available in 6 oz (170 g), 316 yd (289 m) skeins.

ABBREVIATIONS: ch(s) = chain(s); dc = double crochet; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); tr = treble crochet; * = Repeat directions following * as many times as indicated; [ ] = Work directions in brackets as many times as indicated; ( ) = Work directions in parentheses into st or sp indicated.

NOTE: To avoid joining yarn in the middle of a strip, start a new skein after making 2 strips.

Stole: 5 strips of hairpin lace with 240 lps on each side of strips.

Finish Strips: When 240 lps are made and before taking loops from loom, ch 10. Now slide all loops from loom and work as follows: Insert hook through first 5 lps and work 1 sc, *ch 6, 1 sc in next group of 5 lps, repeat from * to end of strip, ch 10, 1 sc in center of hairpin lace strip, ch 10, and work up other side of strip the same as the first side, ch 10, and sl st in center of strip. Fasten off. Repeat for rem 4 strips.

Join Strips: Row 1: Join yarn in first group of first strip, ch 6, 1 sc in first ch-6 sp, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-6 sp, repeat from * across, ending ch 6, 1 sc in sc of last group, ch 6, turn. Row 2: 1 sc in first ch-6 sp, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-6 sp, repeat from * across row ending with ch 6, turn. Row 3: 1 sc in first group of 2nd strip, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-6 sp of first strip, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 sp of 2nd strip, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 sp of first strip, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 sp of 2 nd strip, repeat from * across row, ending ch 3, sl st in last group. Fasten off. Join rem strips in the same way.

Outside Edge: Join yarn to first group of 5 lps, **ch 6, sc in same group, * ch 6, sc in next ch-6 sp, repeat from * across row ending ch 6, sc in last group. Ch 6, sc in same group. Working across end, * ch 6, sc in next space. Rep from * across, ending with sc in first group of other side. Woman’s Hairpin Lace Repeat from ** once. Join with a sl st. Fasten off. Weave Shawl in ends.

WR1650 RED HEART® “Soft Yarn™”, Art. E728 available in solid colors -- 5 oz (140g), 256 yd (234m) or prints – 4 oz (113g), 204 yd STOLE measures approximately 22” x 67” (187m) skeins.

RED HEART® “SOFT YARN™”: 3 skeins 4600 White ABBREVIATIONS: approx = approximately; beg Crochet Hook: 4.0mm [U.S. G -6]. Adjustable Hairpin = begin(ning); ch = chain; lp(s) = loop(s); mm = Lace Loom, set to 3”. millimeters; rem = remaining; rep = repeat; sc = single Yarn needle. crochet; sl = slip; sl st = slip stitch; sp(s) = space(s); st(s) = stitch(es); tog = together; [ ] = work directions in GAUGE: 16 sc = 4 inches at center of strip. brackets the number of times specified; * or ** = repeat CHECK YOUR GAUGE: Use any size hook to obtain whatever follows the * or ** as indicated. gauge.

SHAWL Ch 190. Row 1 (Wrong Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [ch 3, skip next 2 ch, sc in next 3 ch] 37 times, ch 3, skip next 2 ch, sc in last ch; turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 3, dc in center sc of next 3 sc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-3 space] 18 times, ch 3, dc in center sc of next 3 sc, ch 3, sc in last sc; turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 3, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 18 times, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 3, sc in last sc; turn. Row 4: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), [sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 3, skip next sc, dc in next sc, ch 3] 18 times, sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 3, dc in last sc; turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [ch 3, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-3 space] 18 times, ch 3, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of ch-6; turn. Rows 6-43: Repeat Rows 2-5 nine more times, then repeat Rows 2 and 3 once more. Do not fasten off.

Border Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch-3 space across long edge to last sc, 3 sc in last sc; ** working along short edge: [sc in next 3 sc row ends, 2 sc in next dc row end] 10 times, sc in next 3 sc row ends (53 sc) **; working in opposite side of starting ch: 3 sc in first ch, * 2 sc in next ch-space, sc in next 3 ch; repeat from * to last ch; 3 sc in last ch; repeat from ** to **; 2 sc in same st as Stunning Shawl first sc of round; TURN. Short Edge Trim WR1953 Row 1: Ch 1, sc in 57 sc across short side; turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [skip next 3 sc, 7 dc in next sc, skip next 3 sc, sc in next sc] 7 times; turn. Designed by Marianne Forrestal. Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), dc in first sc, * ch 3, skip next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next sc; Shawl measures 64” x 17”. repeat from * across; turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, * 9 dc in next sc, sc in RED HEART® “Soft Yarn™”: 3 balls 4608 Wine. next ch-1 space; repeat from * across; turn Row 5: Ch 4, dc in first sc, * ch 4, skip next 4 dc, sc in next Crochet Hook: 5.5 mm [US H-8]. dc, ch 4, (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next sc; repeat from * across; Yarn needle. turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, * 11 dc in next sc, sc in GAUGE: One repeat = 3”; 8 rows = 3” in pattern. CHECK next c-h 1 space; repeat from * across; turn. YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 4, skip next st, sc in next st] 42 times. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Opposite Short Edge Trim Row 1: With wrong side facing, join yarn in center sc of corner 3 sc; ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and next 56 sc; turn – 57 sc. Rows 2-7: Repeat Rows 2-7 of short edge trim.

RED HEART® “Soft Yarn™”, Art. E728 available in solid colors – 5oz (140g), 256yd (234m) or prints – 4oz (113g), 204yd (187m) balls.

ABBREVIATIONS: ch = chain; dc = double crochet; mm = millimeters; rnd = round; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified.

GAUGE: 14 dc = 4”; 11 rows = 6” using larger hook. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

BACK With larger hook and B, ch 48 (51, 55, 58). Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across – 46 (49, 53, 56) dc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each dc, dc in top of turning ch. 1 1 1 1 Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 5 /2 (5 /2, 6 /2, 6 /2)” from beginning, end on wrong side row.

Shape Armhole Next Row (Right Side): Ch 1, turn, slip st in first 5 sts, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st to last 4 sts, leave last 4 sts unworked – 38 (41, 45, 48) sts. 1 1 1 1 Work in dc until Armhole measures 5 /2 (5 /2, 6 /2, 6 /2)”. Fasten off.

Rib With right side facing and smaller hook, join A at lower edge, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 45 (47, 51, 55) dc evenly across opposite edge of beginning ch – 46 (48, 52, 56) sts.

Ribbing Row: Ch 2 (counts as st), [Fpdc, Bpdc] across to last st, hdc in top of turning ch. 1 1 Repeat Ribbing Row until Rib measures 1 /2 (2, 1 /2, 2)”. Fasten off.

Fun Time Cardigan LEFT FRONT With larger hook and B, ch 25 (26, 28, 30). Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each WR1987 ch across – 23 (24, 26, 29) dc. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each dc, dc in top of turning ch. 1 1 1 1 Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 5 /2 (5 /2, 6 /2, 6 /2)” Designed by Michelle Maks from beginning, end on wrong side row.

Directions are for size 2. Changes for sizes 4, 6, and 8 Shape Armhole are in parentheses. Next Row (Right Side): Ch 1, turn, slip st in first 5 sts, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across – 19 (20, 22, 25) sts. Finished Chest 26 (28, 30, 32)”. Work in dc until Armhole measures 4 (4, 5, 5)”, end with a 1 1 Finished Length 12 /2 (13, 14 /2, 15)”. right side row.

RED HEART® “Kids®”: 1 skein each 2846 Cruise Blue Shape Neck A, 2650 Pistachio B. Next Row (Wrong Side): Ch 3, dc to last 7 (7, 7, 9) sts, leave remaining sts unworked for Neck – 12 (13, 15, 16) sts. Crochet hooks: 4mm [US G-6] and 5.5mm [US I-9]. Dec 1 st at Neck edge every row twice – 10 (11, 13, 14) sts. 7 Six buttons, /8” diameter. Work until piece measures same length as Back to Sewing needle and matching thread. Shoulders. Fasten off. Yarn needle.

Rib Buttonhole Row: Ch 1, turn, [sc to where marked for With right side facing and smaller hook, join A at lower Button, ch 2, skip 2 sc] 6 times, sc to end. edge, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 22 (23, 25, 28) dc evenly across opposite edge of beginning ch – 23 (24, 26, 29) sts. Next Row: Ch 1, [sc to ch-2 space, work 2 sc in ch-2 Ribbing Row: Ch 2 (counts as st), [Fpdc, Bpdc] across to space] 6 times, sc to end. Fasten off. last st, hdc in top of turning ch. 1 1 Repeat Ribbing Row until Rib measures 1 /2 (2, 1 /2, 2)”. Sew on buttons. Weave in ends. Fasten off.

Right Front RED HEART® “Kids”, Art. E711 available Work same as for Left Front reversing shaping. in solid 5 oz (141 g), 290 yd (265 m) and multi 4 oz (113 g); 232 yd (212 m) skeins.. SLEEVES With larger hook and B, ch 28 (30, 32, 34). Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each WR1987ABBREVIATIONS: Colorblock Cardigan A, B, etc= color A, B, etc; Bpdc: Back ch across – 26 (28, 30, 32) dc. post double crochet; ch = chain; dc = double crochet; Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each dc, dcWR1987 in top Colorblockdec = decrease; Cardigan Fpdc: Front post double crochet; of turning ch. inc = increase; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet; Repeat Row 2, inc 1 st each side every other row 6 (5, 8, st(s) = stitch (es); [ ] = work directions in brackets the 7) times – 38 (38, 46, 46) dc. number of times specified. 1 Work even until piece measures 8 (9, 10, 11 /2)” from beginning. Fasten off. 3 (3, 3½, 4)" 3 (3, 3½, 4)" Rib 5 (5½, 5½, 5½)" With right side facing and smaller hook, join A at lower 3 (3, 3½, 4)" 3 (3, 3½, 4)" edge, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 21 (21, 22, 25) dc evenly across opposite edge of beginning ch – 22 (22, 24, 26) sts.

5 (5½, 5½, 5½)" 1½" 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" Ribbing Row: Ch 2 (counts as st), [Fpdc, Bpdc] across to Left 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" last st, hdc in top of turning ch. Back 1½" WR1987 Colorblock Cardigan Repeat Ribbing Row until Rib measures 2”. Fasten off. Front 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" Left 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" Back 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" FINISHING Front Sew Shoulders. Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve 12½ (13, 14½, 15)" 1½ (2, 1½, 2)" 1½ (2, 1½, 2)" 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" seams. 13 (14, 15, 16)" 6½ (7, 7½, 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" 8)" 12½ (13, 14½, 15)" 1½ (2, 1½, 2)" Neck Band 1½ (2, 1½, 2)" With right side facing and smaller hook, join A at Right 13 (14, 15, 16)" 6½ (7, 7½, 8)" Front Neck edge, ch 3, work 47 (47,3 (3, 49, 3½, 49) 4)"sts evenly 3 (3, 3½, 4)" 11 (11, 13, 13)" spaced around Neck5 edge(5½, – 5½, 48 (48, 5½)" 50, 50) sts. Work Ribbing Row as for Back. Fasten off. 11 (11, 13, 13)" Sleeve Button Band 1½" (Work on Left Front for girls, Right Front for boys) 8 (9, 10, 11½)" 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" With right side facing and smaller hook, join A and work 39 Left 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" Sleeve Back 2" (40, 45, 47) sc evenly spaced along Front edge. Front

Work 2 more rows in sc. Fasten off. 7½ (8, 8½,8 (9, 10, 11½)" 9)" 2" 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)" 5½ (5½, 6½, 6½)"

Buttonhole Band 12½ (13, 14½, 15)" 7½ (8, 8½, 9)" 1½ (2, 1½, 2)" Mark for 6 buttons evenly spaced on Button Band. 1½ (2, 1½, 2)" Work 1 row in sc as for Button13 (14, Band. 15, 16)" 6½ (7, 7½, 8)"

11 (11, 13, 13)"

©2009 Coats & Clark For more ideas & inspiration — P.O. Box 12229 www.redheart.com www.coatsandclark.com Greenville, SC 29612-0229 www.crochettoday.coSleeve m www.knitandcrochettoday.com 8 (9, 10, 11½)" 2"

7½ (8, 8½, 9)" kdtvlibrary

Felted Scarf In Beige Jane Patrick Originally published in Weaver's Idea Book, Summer 2010 Brad Bartholomew

Felted Scarf In Beige originally published in Weaver's Idea Book, Summer 2010. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. publishers of Weaver's Idea Book…join the online knitting community at KnittingDailyTV.com Visit InterweaveStore.com for more great patterns! page 1 Felted Scarf

in Beige Jane Patrick

For this felted scarf in plain weave, I threaded 1" (2.5 cm) and then left the next 1" (2.5 cm) unthreaded in the reed. I wove in the same manner, weaving 1" (2.5 cm), then leaving 1" (2.5 cm) unwoven. The fabric is very loosely woven, but during the felting process, everything shrinks and felts together to stabilize it.

We a v i n g and agitated the water and then the Weave a balanced weave (12 ppi) for fabric for only a few minutes. Because 1" (2.5 cm), then insert a 1" (2.5 cm) my water was very hot, I wore rubber spacer, weave the next 1" (2.5 cm), gloves. I inspected the progress often insert another spacer, and so on. I used to avoid overfelting. When the fabric two spacers, leapfrogging them as I was sufficiently felted, I carefully wove. Note: The weave will be very handrinsed in cool water to prevent open. This is as it should be. further felting, then I lay it flat to dry. I gave the fabric a light steam press. Fi n i s h i n g A few areas had felted on top of each This fabric felted quickly by hand. I other, which I corrected by gently pull- used very hot water and lots of soap ing them apart.

Th r e a d i n g Threaded 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 Open 12 12 12 12 12 12 12

Fi n i s h e d Si z e After felting: 8" (20.5 cm) wide × 72" (183 cm) long, plus 8" (20.5¡cm) fringe at each end. Before felting: 14½" (37 cm) wide × 108" (274.5 cm) long.

Ya r n Warp and Weft: 2/18 2ply wool at 5,040 yd (4,608 m)/lb: about 700 yd (640 m). This yarn is Superfine Merino in Suede from Jaggerspun.

Eq u i p m e n t Rigid heddle loom with at leasta 15" (38 cm) weaving width; 12 dent rigid heddle reed; one shuttle. Optional: two 1" (2.5 cm) spacers a little wider than the warp width.

Number of Warp Ends 96. Warp Width 15" EPI 12 Use spacers to separate between each 1" (2.5 cm) of weaving. Use a gentle PPI In woven areas – 12. beat and try to achieve 12 ppi. It'll look loose, but this is as it should be.

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The Weaver’s Idea Book: Creative Cloth on a Rigid-Heddle Loom Jane Patrick $29.95, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-59668-175-0 Available Now

If you've ever made feather yarn you may have noticed that some feathers have prickly shafts. Even if you were to spin it in well, often over time one works it's way a little loose enough to be needling. This would make such a yarn not so good for normal mitten cuffs.

Sizes: Average Womans Yarn/Fiber: Bulky 2 ply handspun for the main mitten part (about 3-4 ounces of Natural BFL – 90 yards) and Bulky 2 ply Feather yarn ( about 3 ounces of Juniper BFL from Spunky Eclectic plied with natural guinea feathers and sparkling crochet cotton – about 75 yards) Spinning Specs: The singles were Z spun at a ratio of 9:1 – plied at the same ratio S twist. For specifics on Feather yarn, please see hints at Knitting Daily TV or in the book “Spin Control” by Amy King. Gauge: 3 spi, 5rpi Needles: US 9 double points. Tools: darning needle for kitchenering and weaving in ends

Pattern : Using CC, CO 32 sts, Join in the round without twisting and marking the beginning of round. Work 4 rows stst R5: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. R6-8: Work stst Work the last 4 rows 3 more times. (24sts)Continue to work in stst until your work measures 4 inches from the CO edge.

Change to MC. Work 4 rows even.

Right Mitten: R1: K1, PM, KFBF, PM, Work to the end of round. R2: Next round, Knit all sts. Slipping markers as necessary. R3: Next round, K to marker, SM, Kfb, K to 1 st before marker, Kfb, SM, Knit to the end of round. **Work rows 2 and 3 until you have 9 sts between the markers. Work 2 rows even. Next round K to marker, Slip off marker, Slip the next 9 sts onto a holder, slip off marker, M1, Knit to the end of round. You are now back to 24 sts. Work until mitten measures just one row over the tip of the pinky finger. Decrease for the top. R1:K1, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K1. (20sts) R2: Knit all R3: K1, K2tog, K4, SSK, K2, K2tog, K4, SSK, K1 (16sts) R4: Knit all R5: K1, K2tog, K2, SSK, K2, K2tog, K2, SSK, K1 (12sts) R6: Knit all Kitchener the stitches together. Line it up the first 6 with the last 6 so that the top of the mitten is correct.

Left mitten: Work second mitten up until the Designation for Right mitten R1: K to last 2 sts, PM, KFBF, PM, K1 R2: Next round, Knit all sts. Slipping markers as necessary. R3: Next round, K to marker, SM, Kfb, K to 1 st before marker, Kfb, SM, Knit to the end of round. Continue working as right mitten starting at **

Thumb: Work Both mittens the same: Pick up and knit 10sts working in the round. Work 2.5 inches of stst or the length you need (which is the length of the wearer's thumb). Next round: K2tog around. Break yarn leaving a long tail – using your needle, pull this tail through the remaining stitches, pull them together tightly and fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

Standard Abbreviations: BO=Bind off, CO=Cast on, K=Knit, K2tog=Knit 2 together, LHN=Left hand needle, M1=Make 1 stitch, P=Purl, PSSO=Pass slipped stitch over and off needle, RHN=Right hand needle, RS=right side, SKP=Slip1, Knit1, PSSO, SSK=Slip1, Slip 1, pass back to LHN, K2together, STS=Stitches, STST=Stockinette, TBL=through the back loop, WS=wrong side, YO=Yarn over

All contents are copyright Amy King 2010. They are for personal use only. Please do not distribute or copy in any part or as a whole without express written permission from Amy King and Spunky Eclectic. 5302 Checkerboard Wrap designed by Laura Bryant©200

One size: approx 20” x 60” blocked

Note: Wrap is worked throughout with three strands of Lacewool held together. To achieve color gradation, begin with three strands of A, then at 14” add one strand B and work 4 sts; cut one strand of A and continue in pattern stitch. At 28”, repeat. At 46”, repeat, ending wrap with three strands B.

Materials: 2 Skeins Lacewool in contrasting colors A & B Needles size 10 or size to get gauge

Gauge: In Checkerboard pattern with 3 strands held together 19 sts & 24 rows = 4”

Checkerboard Pattern: multiple of 8 Row 1, 3, 5: *K 4, p 4* rep** across. Row 2, 4, 6: *P 4, k 4* rep** across. Row 7, 9, 11: rep row 2. Row 8, 10, 12: rep row 1.

Wrap: With 3 strands A, CO 96 sts. Work Checkerboard patt in following color repeat: 3 A—14” 2 A, 1 B—14” 2 B, 1 A—14” 3 B—14”.

BO all sts in pattern.

Block lightly with steam.

Scrunchable enough to qualify as a generous scarf, LaceWool’s fine softness lends itself to a wrap that can do double duty over a coat on cold winter days. The simple yet intriguing concept of shading one colorway to another allows for interesting knitting – and is a great way to take advantage of Prism’s luscious colors! Shown here in Woodlands & Embers. Visit www.prismyarn.com for alternate color combinations.

Like the pages of a good book, our Hoodini unfolds with Mobius strips take us back to our childhood—that magic strip magical twists and turns. Wear it as a wrap, a scarf, a hood of paper, twisted once and taped together, that has just one or a shrug; with a single wrap or doubled up for more drama. surface and one edge! Try it yourself: cut a long, narrow strip Based on Elizabeth Zimmerman’s famous Moebius hoods, ours of paper, flip one end over and tape to the other end. Now, has been updated with modern yarns and colors, and often put pen to paper and draw a continuous line—you’ll trace both made longer for a more variable silhouette. Hoodinis can be surfaces and wind up back where you started. Follow any edge, constructed either as long strips and grafted with a twist, or and the same thing is true: it is one continuous edge. If we knit worked circularly onto a Mobius cast on. a Mobius, we get a wonderful garment that hugs our neck and drapes beautifully in front, with a lovely half cross in front that reduces bulk.

Basic Ribbed Wrap Rib Pattern: multiple of 10 plus 4. This version is worked in one flat piece onto a provisional Cast on is multiple of 8 plus 4. cast on. Once knitted, the wrap is turned once or twice and Preparation row: P 4, *yo, k 4, yo, p 4* rep ** across. then the ends are grafted invisibly. One twist (180°) results in These yarn overs become stitches in following rows. a mismatch of knit sections to purl sections, but produces a Row 1: K 4, *p 6, k 4*. true mobius strip. Two twists (360°) allow knits and purls to Row 2: P 4, *k 6, p 4*. be matched exactly, but produces more bulk from the double Finish: release cast on chain and pick up all live sts to spare twist and requires a longer initial strip. During grafting, one needle. Lay strip flat, then turn one needle over—180° twist stitch on each side of the 6 st sections is dropped and later run made. Now, align both needles with live stitches for grafting, down to the cast on, leaving k 4 p 4 separated by long strands. with cast on row behind and final row in front. Knit stitches Very soft fabrics may not need the dropped stitches. will match to purl sts and extra sts will be dropped from front Provisional cast on: with scrap yarn, chain 5 more sts than needle as grafting progresses. Graft first four sts, drop next st required. With working yarn, pick up required number of sts, 1 from front needle; graft next four sts and drop next st from st through each back leg of chain. front needle. Repeat across. Run each live dropped stitch down entire strip.

Graft knit stitches to purl stitches Work from front needle to back After grafting is complete, run

after making twist. needle, passing through 2 sts ea time. each dropped stitch back to cast on row.

www.prismyarn.com

Portofino Size: Approx 17” x 42” Materials: 3 Tencel A 5 Biwa B # 9 needle With A, provisionally CO 94 sts. Eliminate preparation row, and begin Rib Patt with row 1. Alternate 2 rows A and 2 rows B throughout. Work to approx 42”. Finish as noted above, but do not drop any stitches (all sts will be grafted to first row). Mobius loops can be cast on at the center of strip and worked circularly, with both sides miraculously working outward simultaneously. Different combinations of knits and purls will produce different effects: garter, stockinette, corrugated rib. Follow specific instructions for each model.

Mobius cast on: with circular needle 36” or longer, make a double loop with the cable and hold right needle and cable in right hand. Place a slip knot onto needle. Holding yarn in left hand, *dip rt needle tip in front and under cable, wrap yarn counterclockwise (as for a normal stitch), bring needle tip up, wrap yarn counterclockwise; repeat from * as required. Count stitches beginning at needle tip. This number will become twice as many once joined for circular knitting. Place marker at beginning of round. As you work the first round, every other st on first half will be turned backwards. Simply knit these sts through the back of the st, thus untwisting them. Once you reach the cable portion, sts will be in the correct position. Once first round is complete, all sts will be correct.

1. Hold needle and cable in right hand. Place slip knot onto needle.

2. Dip point of rt needle in front and below cable; Tumbleweed Size: Approx 10” x 60” wrap yarn counter-clock- Materials: wise. 3 Symphony A 3 Fern B 36” Circular needle size 10½ Crochet hook size g

3. Brint point of needle With A, using Mobius CO, CO 180 sts (360 sts on needle). back up and in front of Mark for beginning of round. cable; wrap yarn counter- (K 180 sts, p 180 sts) 4 times: 8 rows of stockinette. clockwise. *With B, k 180 sts, p 180 sts. With B, (P 180 sts, k 180 sts) 3 times. (4 rows B total.) With A, p 180 sts, k 180 sts. With A, (k 180 sts, p 180 sts)7 times. (8 rows A total.)* 4. Repeat 2 & 3, building Repeat ** once more. up stitches on both needle Repeat B rows once more. and cable. With A, (k 1 rnd, p 1 rnd) 4 times (4 rows garter st). BO all sts. With A, work 1 rnd reverse sc around entire edge.

An extra long, soft and furry Hoodini functions as both hood and shoulder wrap. Alternating bands of stockinette and reverse stockinette form soft folds, emphasizing the cushy fur.

Wrap yourself in luxury! CASHWOOL RIBBED ADJUSTABLE COLORED SCARF Designed By: Barry Klein Copyright: January 2010

TRENDSETTER YARNS USED: Cashwool-1/100gr. each of 4 transitional colors Needles #7

GAUGE: With #7 needle and Cashwool triple in Ribbed St. slightly stretched; 31sts=4”.

KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS

NOTES: Carefully open each hank making sure that ALL strands are going in the same direction. Check the tie strands to be sure that they can be seen and are not covered. Place hank on yarn swift making sure that yarn is not twisted. Carefully cut tail and thread through ball winder. Wind each hank in approximate thirds for ease in use for scarf.

SCARF: With #7 needle and 3 ply A, Cast on 55sts. Work in Rib St. pattern as follows:

Row 1: *P5,K5*. Rep *to*, end P5. Row 2: *K5,P5*. Rep *to*, end K5.

Work in Rib Pattern changing colors in sequence every 7” as follows:

Stripe 1: 3 ply A Stripe 2: 2 ply A, 1 ply B. Stripe 3: 1 ply A, 2 ply B. Stripe 4: 3 ply B. Stripe 5: 2 ply B, 1 ply C. Stripe 6: 1 ply B, 2 ply C. Stripe 7: 3 ply C. Stripe 8: 2 ply C, 1 ply D. Stripe 9: 1 ply C, 2 ply D. Stripe 10: 3 ply D.

Work in pattern until 7” have been worked in Stripe 10. Bind off in pattern.

TRENDSETTER YARNS

CHA CHA STRIPED DIAGONAL SHORT SCARF Designed By: Barry Klein Copyright: November 2009

TRENDSETTER YARNS USED: STITCHES USED: Cha Cha #891(A), #10(B)-1/100gr. ea. Garter St.: Cha Cha #413(A), #652(B)-1/100gr. ea. KNIT every row. Trendsetter Needles #8.

CHA CHA STRIPED DIAGONAL SHORT SCARF – KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS

DIAGONAL KNITTING: Row 1: Knit across the row. Row 2: K1 Increasing in stitch. Knit until 2sts remain. K2-tog. Be sure to keep Cha Cha flat when winding. Put yarn on yarn swift and wrap yarn around cardboard, yarn label, or paper towel tube. Keep yarn flat so it is easy to knit with and all boxes remain horizontal.

With #8 needle and Cha Cha A, Cast on 20sts as follows: Be sure yarn has a smooth cut edge that runs vertically through center of an open box. Fold tail over so that two boxes overlap in a row. This creates a HEM. With point of Needle, pick up first doubled box from back to front. (Threads sit on needle as your stitch.) Repeat for next doubled box. Pick up 18 additional boxes from back to front. 20sts are now on the needle. Knit 1 row through back of each stitch to twist on this row only. (All other rows will be knit through front of stitch.) Join B by hemming the end as written in Cha Cha instructions on first page and work following the Diagonal Knitting pattern above. Continue working in Diagonal pattern changing color every 2 rows keeping first of each color as a Knit row and the second row as a Pattern row. Continue until ½ of each skein of Cha Cha is worked or desired length for short scarf when wrapped around neck. Work 2 rows of color A, creating a hem on the final 2 stitches. Work 2 rows of Color B, binding off on second row. With a piece of sewing thread or thin yarn, pull through last stitch from Bind Off’s. Knot carefully and bury tails to keep stitches from opening up. Free Knitting Pattern Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice® Fallen Leaves Scarf Pattern Number: 90053AD

Sampler scarves are the perfect way to learn new skills. This pattern features basketweave, seed stitch, and colorwork. Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice® Fallen Leaves Scarf Pattern Number: 90053AD

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

SIZE: One Size About 7 x 72 in. (18 x 183 cm)

CORRECTIONS: None as of Nov 4, 2009. To check for later updates, click here.

MATERIALS

• 860-170 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Pea Green 1 Ball (A) • 860-127 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Espresso 1 Ball (B) • 860-134 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Terracotta 2 Balls (C) • 860-133 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Brick 2 Balls (D) • Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm] • Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE:

18 sts + 24 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Basket Weave. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

Basket Weave (multiple of 8 sts) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Rows 2-6: *K4, p4; rep from * across. Row 7: Knit. Rows 8-12: *P4, k4; rep from * across. Rep Rows 1-12 for Basket Weave.

Seed Stitch (over an odd number of sts) Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Rep Row 1 for Seed St.

Two-Color Pattern (multiple of 4 sts + 1) Note: Carry color not in use along the side of the work. Set up Row (WS): With first color, purl. Row 1 (RS): With second color, k1, *sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, sl 1 wyib, k1, rep from * across. Row 2: With second color, p1, *sl 3 wyib, p1, rep from * across. Row 3: With first color, knit. Row 4: With first color, purl. Row 5: With second color, k1, *sl 1 wyib, insert needle from front under long B strand of Row 2 and k next st, sl 1 wyib, k1, rep from * across. Row 6: With second color, K1, *sl 1 wyif, p1, sl 1 wyif, k1, rep from * across. Rows 7 and 8: Rep Rows 3 and 4. Row 9: With second color, K1, *sl 1 wyib, k1, rep from * across. Row 10: Rep Row 6. Row 11: With second color, K1, *sl 1 wyif, k1, rep from * across. Row 12: With second color, P1, *sl 1 wyif, p1, rep from * across. Rows 13 and 14: Rep Rows 3 and 4. Row 15: With second color, K1, *sl 1 wyif, k1, rep from * across. Row 16: With second color, purl. Rows 17 and 18: Rep Rows 3 and 4. Rep Rows 1-18 for Two-Color Pattern.

NOTES:

1. Scarf edges are designed to curl along some of the pattern stitches. 2. The stitch count will change when increases and decreases are worked to accommodate individual pattern stitches.

SCARF With A, cast on 33 sts. Row 1: With A, work Setup Row of Two-Color Pattern. Rep Rows 1-18 of Two-Color Pattern, using A as first color and B as second color, until piece measures 18 in. (46 cm) from beg, end with a Row 4, 8, 14, 16 or 18 of Two-Color Pattern. Change to D. Next Row (RS): With D, k2tog, k to end of row. With D, and beginning with Row 2, repeat Rows 1-12 of Basket Weave until piece measures 36 in. (91.5 cm) from beg, end with a Row 6 or 12. Change to C. Next Row (RS): With C, work Row 1 of Seed St across to last st, increase 1 st by knitting into front and then back of last st– 33 sts. Continue in Seed St until piece measures 54 in. (137 cm) from beg, end with a RS row. Next Row (WS): With C, work Setup Row of Two-Color Pattern. Rep Rows 1-18 of Two-Color Pattern, using C as first color and D as second color, until piece measures 72 in. (183 cm) from beg, end with a Row 4, 8, 14, 16 or 18 of Two-Color Pattern. Bind off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES Click fo r explanatio n and illustratio n beg = begin(s)(ning) dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit p = purl rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side wyib = with yarn in back wyif = with yarn in front

Learn to knit instructions:http://learnToKnit.LionBrand.com

Every effort has been made to have the knitting and crochet instructions accurate and complete. We cannot be responsible for variance of individual knitters and crocheters, human errors, or typographical mistakes. *Vanna's Choice® (Article #860) is a 4-ply worsted-weight 100% acrylic yarn. • Solids in 3.5 oz/100g (170 yd/156 m) balls • Prints in 3 oz/85 g (145 yd/133 m) balls 100% acrylic

We want your project to be a success! If you need help with this or any other Lion Brand pattern, e-mail support is available 7 days per week. Just click here to explain your problem and someone will help you!

For thousands of free patterns, visit our website www.LionBrand.com To order visit our website www.lionbrand.com or call: (800) 258-YARN (9276) any time!

Copyright ©1998-2009 Lion Brand Yarn Company, all rights reserved. No pattern or other material may be reproduced -- mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying -- without written permission of Lion Brand Yarn Company. Felted Flower Market Tote Designed by Becca Smith

Stitch Pattern: Garter stitch: K all rows. Stockinette stitch: K 1 row, p 1 row. Body of Bag: 1. Begin with the bottom gusset. With A, CO 50 sts and k 20 rows in garter stitch. 2. Pick up sts around the edge of the gusset as follows: 10 sts along each short edge and 50 sts along the long edge (120 sts). 3. Begin knitting in the round with stockinette stitch. PM at beginning of rnd. 4. Continue with A for 4 rnds. 5. Change to B for 4 rnds. 6. Change to A for 4 rnds. 7. Change to B for 10 inches. 8. Change to A for 2 rnds Buttonhole round with 2 buttonholes on each side: 9. Marker should be at the beginning of the rnd, ready to knit one of the long sides. K 20, BO 5, k 20, BO 5, k 30, BO 5, k 20, BO 5, k 10. 10. K 20, CO 5, k 20, CO 5, k 20, CO 5, k 20, CO 5, k 10. 11. K next rnd. 12. Change to B for 5 rnds.

Page 2 The BagSmith © 2008 www.bagsmith.com 888.879,7224 Decrease row: 13. *K2, k2tog; repeat to end of rnd (90 sts). 14. Combine colors A and B for 2 rnd. 15. BO alternating between knitwise and purlwise. I-cord shoulder strap: 16. With A on dpn, CO 5 sts, leaving a 7-inch tail. 17. *K 1 row, p 1 row; rep from * until piece measures 60 inches. 18. BO leaving a 7-inch tail.

Time to felt! Insert the body of bag and shoulder strap into a mesh lingerie bag, and place in the washing machine with a couple of old towels, and an athletic shoe. Wash in a mild detergent (no bleach) for a complete "normal" cycle with hot wash and cold rinse. When the cycle in complete, check the pieces and be sure they've felted enough. The fabric should be thick and the stitches obscured. Do not put them in the dryer. Instead, stretch them into the desired shape and let them air dry.

When the pieces are all dry, thread the I-cord strap through the buttonholes. Tie the ends together securely with the tails. With the darning needle, thread the tails into the inside of the I-cord.

Felted flowers, stems, and bow: The felted flowers are three sizes of the same pattern. The stem and bow are made of I-cords.

Small flower: 1. With E, CO 20 sts on 10.5 straight needles. 2. Row 1: K all sts. 3. Row 2: *K1 f&b; rep to end (40 sts). 4. Row 3: Rep row 2 (80 sts). 5. BO loosely, leaving a 7-inch tail. Medium flower: 1. With C, CO 30 sts. 2. Row 1: K all sts. 3. Row 2: *K1 f&b; rep to end (60 sts). 4. Row 3: Rep row 2 (120 sts). 5. BO loosely, leaving a 7-inch tail. Large flower: 1. With D, CO 45 sts. 2. Row 1: K all sts. 3. Row 2: *K1 f&b; rep to end (90 sts). 4. Row 3: Rep row 2 (180 sts). 5. BO loosely, leaving a 7-inch tail.

Page 3 The BagSmith © 2008 www.bagsmith.com 888.879,7224 Assembling the flowers: 1. Twist the knitted piece into a swirl shape. 2. Using the darning needle, sew the swirl in place. 3. Repeat for each flower.

Stems and ribbon: I-cords: CO 3 sts on dpn, and create I-cord stems for each flower and a bow to tie them together. Each cord should be approximately 8 inches long.

Felting the flowers, stems, and bow: Place a large bowl in the sink and fill it with very hot water. Put on a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands during this process. Add some mild dish detergent to the hot water. I use Ivory Dishwashing Soap for this project. Put the flowers, stems, and bow cord into the hot water, and agitate the water with your gloved hands. Be patient; this may take a little while.

If the water cools, pour off some of it and refresh with hot water. If the felting isn't going fast enough, rinse with cold water and repeat the process.

When the pieces are felted, rinse them again in cold water. To be sure that all the soap is out, you can add a little vinegar to the cold water. This will neutralize any soap left in the pieces.

When everything is dry, sew the pieces onto the body of the bag with strong thread. I used linen thread. That's it! You should have a stunning little number to take to the market.

Knitting

BeccaBececca Smith

Find the Felted Market Bag along with lots of other fun patterns in The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Knitting by Becca Smith.

Published by Alpha Books, a division of Penguin Publishing

For more information: call 888.879.7224, or visit www.bagsmith.com

This sock-inspired stuffed sheep is cuddly and adorable! Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn Lion Brand® Wool-Ease® Little Lamb Sock Critter Pattern Number: 90572AD

SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Intermediate

SIZE: One Size About 9 1/2 in. (24 cm) tall

CORRECTIONS: None as of Dec 14, 2009. To check for later updates, click here.

MATERIALS

• 620-099 Lion Brand Wool-Ease Yarn: Fisherman 1 Ball (A) • 620-152 Lion Brand Wool-Ease Yarn: Oxford Grey 1 Ball (B) • Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 5 [3.75 mm] • Lion Brand Double-Pointed Needles - Size 5 • Lion Brand Stitch Markers • Lion Brand Cable Needles (Set of 2) • Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6) • Additional Materials Small amount of contrast yarn Fiberfill stuffing Small piece of black or brown felt Sewing needle and thread

GAUGE:

18 sts + 26 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

Cable Cast On *Insert right needle between first 2 sts on left needle; wrap yarn and pull through (as if knitting a st); transfer new st to left needle. Rep from * for desired number of sts. RT (Right Twist): K2tog and leave on left needle, then with right needle, go between the 2 sts and knit the first st again. 1/1 LPC (1 over 1 left purl cross): Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front, p1, then k1 from cable needle. 1/1 RPC (1 over 1 right purl cross): Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back, k1, then p1 from cable needle. kfb (knit in front and back) Knit next st without removing it from left needle, then k through back of same st – 1 st increased. ssk (slip, slip, knit) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; insert left needle into fronts of these 2 sts and knit them tog – 1 st decreased. ssp (slip, slip, purl) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; pass them back to left needle; purl them tog through back loops – 1 st decreased.

PATTERN EXPLANATION Moss St (multiple of 2) Rows 1 and 2: *P1, k1; rep from * across. Rows 3 and 4: *K1, p1; rep from * across. Rep Rows 1-4 for Moss st.

NOTES:

1. If desired, 2 double pointed needles can be substituted for straight knitting needles. When working in rows on 2 double pointed needles, take care that sts do not drop off the ends of the needles by wrapping one end of each double pointed needle with an elastic band. 2. Body and legs are worked back and forth in rows; head is worked in a similar way to knitting a sock; arms, ears and tail are worked in the round. 3. Pattern is written for a Critter with felt eyes. Do NOT use button eyes if Critter is for a child.

LAMB LEG (make 2) With straight needles and B, and leaving a long beg tail, cast on 8 sts. Work back and forth in rows. Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each st across – 16 sts at the end of this row. Rows 2-6: Beg with a WS row, work in St st (k on RS, p on WS). Change to A. Row 7: With A, knit. Row 8: *K1, p1; rep from * across. Rows 9 and 10: With A, work Rows 1 and 2 of Moss st. Rows 11 and 12: With A, work Rows 3 and 4 of Moss st. Rep last 4 rows once more. Next Row (WS): Bind off 3 sts, work in Moss st as established to end of row – 13 sts at the end of this row. Next Row: Bind off 3 sts, work in Moss st as established to end of row – 10 sts at the end of this row. Cut yarn. Thread contrast yarn through Leg sts and set Leg aside. Make a second Leg in same way, but keep sts on needle and do not cut yarn. Both Legs: Thread beg tail (at cast on) into blunt needle and weave through cast-on rnd. Pull tog tightly and fasten off.

Body Notes: 1. Pattern sts on Body can be worked from chart OR by following written instructions below. 2. On Row 1, remove contrast yarn from Leg sts as you knit them.

Row 1 (RS): With RS of second Leg facing, and using working yarn from second Leg, cable cast on 4 sts, (p1, k1) twice across these 4 sts, (p1, k1) 5 times over sts of second Leg, turn, cable cast on 6 sts, turn, working across sts of first Leg, k1, p1, k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, turn, cable cast on 4 sts – 34 sts at the end of this row. Row 2 (WS): (P1, k1) 5 times, p2, k1, p1, k2, p2, k2, (p1, k1) 7 times. Row 3: (K1, p1) 5 times, k2, p1, k1, p2, RT, p2, (k1, p1) 7 times. Row 4: (K1, p1) 7 times, k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1) 5 times. Row 5: (P1, k1) 6 times, p1, (1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC) twice, p1, k2, (p1, k1) 5 times. Row 6: (P1, k1) 5 times, (p2, k2) 3 times, (p1, k1) 6 times. Row 7: (K1, p1) 5 times, k2, (p2, RT) twice, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times. Row 8: (K1, p1) 6 times, (k2, p2) 3 times, (k1, p1) 5 times. Row 9: (P1, k1) 6 times, p1, (1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC) twice, p1, k2, (p1, k1) 5 times. Rows 10-17: Rep Rows 2-9. Rows 18-22: Rep Rows 2-6. Row 23: K2tog, (p1, k1) across to last 2 sts, ssp – 32 sts. Divide sts onto 3 double pointed needles as follows: 8 sts on needle #1, 16 sts on needle #2, and 8 sts on needle #3. Join for working in the rnd. Place marker for beg of rnd. Rnds 24-30: *K1, p1; rep from * around.

Shape Head Note: Back and top of head are worked in rows across sts on needles #1 and #3 only (as when working a sock heel). The sts on needle #2 will be worked later, when shaping face. Back of Head Row 1: With A, (k1, p1) 4 times across sts on needle #1, turn. Row 2: (K1, p1) 4 times across sts on needle #1, then (k1, p1) 4 times across needle #3, turn. Work back and forth across 16 sts on needles #1 and # 3 only. Rows 3 and 4: (P1, k1) 8 times. Rows 5 and 6: (K1, p1) 8 times. Rows 7 and 8: Rep Rows 3 and 4. Rows 9-12: Rep Rows 5-8. Shape Top of Head Note: Beg short row shaping for top of head as follows: Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, k2tog, k1, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, turn. Row 3: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k2tog, k1, turn. Row 4: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p2tog, p1, turn. Row 5: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, k2tog, k1, turn. Row 6: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1, p2tog, p1, turn – 10 head sts rem. Shape Face Note: Work now proceeds in the rnd. Sts are worked all the way around the edges of the top and back of head, and over the held sts on needle #2 to complete the first rnd. Set Up Rnd (RS): On needle #1, k across 10 rem sts of head, pick up and knit 10 sts along side of back of head; on needle #2, k6, ssk, k2tog, k6; on needle #3, pick up and knit 10 sts along other side of back of head; then k across first 5 head sts (the same sts worked at the beg of this rnd) – 44 sts at the end of this rnd. Place marker for beg of rnd. Rnd 1: On needle #1, k3, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog; on needle #2, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5; on needle #3, ssk, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 – 38 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnd 2: Knit. Rnd 3: On needle #1, k3, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog; on needle #2, k; on needle #3, ssk, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 – 34 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnd 4: Knit. Cut A and continue with B only for face. Rnd 5: With B on needle #1, k3, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog; on needle #2, k across; on needle #3, ssk, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 – 30 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnd 6: Knit. Rnds 7 – 9: Rep Rnds 5 and 6 – 22 sts at the end of Rnd 9. Rnds 10 – 12: Knit. At the end of Rnd 12, beg stuffing head, and continue to stuff head as work progresses. Rnd 13: K2, k2tog, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5, ssk, k2 – 18 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnd 14: Knit. Rnd 15: K1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1 – 14 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnd 16: K2tog, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, ssk – 10 sts at the end of this rnd. Cut yarn. Thread tail into blunt needle and thread through rem sts. Finish stuffing head, then pull sts tog tightly and fasten off.

ARM (make 2) With double pointed needles and B and leaving a long beg tail, cast on 8 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 4 double pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Rnd 1: Kfb in each st around – 16 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnds 2-6: Work in St st worked in the rnd (k every rnd). Rnd 7: Change to A, work in St st. Rnd 8: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rnds 9 and 10: *P1, k1; rep from * around. Rnds 11 and 12: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rep last 4 rnds once more. Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread beg tail (at cast on) into blunt needle and weave through sts of cast-on rnd. Pull tog tightly and fasten off. Stuff Arm lightly.

EAR (make 2) With double pointed needles and A and leaving a long beg tail, cast on 8 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 4 double pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Rnd 1: Kfb in each st around – 16 sts at the end of this rnd. Rnds 2 and 3: *P1, k1; rep from * around. Rnds 4 and 5: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rnds 6 and 7: Rep Rnds 2 and 3. Rnds 8 and 9: Rep Rnds 4 and 5. Rnds 10 and 11: Rep Rnds 2 and 3. Rep last 4 rnds once more. Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread beg tail into blunt needle and weave through sts of cast-on rnd. Pull tog tightly and fasten off. Do not stuff Ears.

TAIL Make same as for Ear. Do not stuff Tail.

FINISHING Sew opening between legs closed. Stuff body, then sew body closed. Seam Legs, stuff lightly before finishing seam. Sew top edge of Arms closed, then sew Arms to Body. Sew Ears to sides of Head. Flatten Tail and sew to back of Body. From felt, cut 3 small circles for eyes and nose. With sewing needle and thread, sew felt circles to face. To allow Critter to sit: With matching yarn, sew a straight line across lower edge of body just above top of Legs, sewing through all layers and pushing stuffing slightly to either side of stitching. Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES Click fo r explanatio n and illustratio n beg = begin(s)(ning) k = knit k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl p2tog = purl 2 together rem = remain(s)(ing) rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side sl = slip St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side

Learn to knit instructions:http://learnToKnit.LionBrand.com

For thousands of free patterns, visit our website www.LionBrand.com To order visit our website www.lionbrand.com or call: (800) 258-YARN (9276) any time!

Embroidery techniques can be used to duplicate stitches in a stranded pattern or to add detail to plain Stockinette or Intarsia. Mission Falls patterns often use embroidery to add texture and interest to our colourful knits.

A French Knot is one of the basic embroidery stitches. It creates a raised dot on the surface of the fabric. It can be a little tricky to get right the first time, but with practice, you’ll find that you can create these little knots with ease.

Instructions for French Knots

• Thread your needle and bring your thread and needle to the working side of your fabric. • Keep the thread tight against the fabric with your left hand. • Wrap the thread around the needle twice. • Insert the needle back into the fabric. Make sure it is only a stitch or a thread away from the place you brought the needle to the front. Keep holding the thread to keep the tension. You might have to guide the knot down with your fingernail to where it should meet the fabric. • You have a completed French Knot!

These images are from the Mission Falls pattern book ‘Smitten’. For stockist information, please visit www.missionfalls.com or call 1-877-244-1204. sstitches rows

A Perennial Classic www.missionfalls.com THE COMMUNITY SOCK CLUB

MT HOOD FIBER PRESENTS: OCTOBER 2009

Presents: “Pico”, by Larissa Brown pico by Larissa Brown

A versatile, simple cowl/collar/neck warmer named after my friend Stevanie.

Without the t it’s her last name, with the t it’s the key to this cowl.

Size 6 inches by 17 inches, shown on a

14 ¾ inch neck. Size can be adjusted by knitting the piece longer before binding off.

Yarn ShibuiKnits Highland Wool Alpaca (Bulky, 12 ply, 7 wpi, wool & alpaca, 250 grams, 246 yards), 1 skein in Rapids. (Note: Project uses less than 1 skein. You will have leftovers to use for another project.)

Needles US size 13/9 mm Optional crochet hook and waste yarn.

Gauge 10.5 sts and 10 rows over 4”/10 cm in garter stitch

Notions 1 large clip-on earring

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions k = knit bo= bind off co, or cco = cable cast on, worked as follows. Insert the right needle, front to back, between the two first sts on the left hand needle. Grab the working yarn from behind and place this new loop on the left hand needle. You have created one stitch. Repeat to cast on more sts.

Note It does make a difference that you use the cable cast on method. If not, your picots may not be as pronounced.

Instructions Before you begin, decide how you want to end. You have two choices. Using a provisional cast-on, you can come back and have live sts to complete the bind-off. Using the long-tail cast on method, you can come back to pick up sts later. Both are easy and look just the same.

If using provisional cast-on, using waste yarn crochet a chain more than 18 sts long. Using project yarn, pick up and knit 18 sts in the loops of the crochet chain. Then continue with Body below.

If using long-tail method, cast on 18.

Body

Turn work to begin knitting.

Row 1. Cco 1 st, bo 1 st, knit to end.

Repeat Row 1 until piece measures 15 inches long (or about the desired neck circumference.)

Final row. *Cco 2, bo 4*. Repeat * * until all sts are bound off.

Now either return to your provisional cast-on and place the live sts on the needle (removing the crochet chain,) or return to your co edge and pick up and knit 18 sts.

Position sts so you can begin knitting at the edge without the long tail.

Repeat the Final Row from above.

Weave in ends. It may be best to not block this piece, so it retains all its frilliness.

Fold around neck, using the earring to secure in various configurations—as a neck warmer, with edges slightly rolled, as a partial collar, or as a centered collar—as shown in photos.

Please see more patterns by Stitch Marker at www.larissmix.typepad.com or www.ravelry.com

© 2008, Larissa Brown, all rights reserved. This pattern is for personal or charitable use only. You may use it to knit for yourself, for gifts, or for donation to a charity or charity event. You may not use it to knit objects for sale. Please do not share in any form, electronic or otherwise. For more information, to ask questions, or if you find an error, please write to [email protected]. kdtvlibrary

Ring of Cables Oval Shrug by Kristin Omdahl Originally published in A Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2010 Joe Hancock

SHRUGS HAVE REMAINED POPULAR OVER THE DECADES because they flatter the figure and complement many outfits. In this design, I pay homage to a variety of cables for unusual texture in a thick, warm wrap. The body is worked back and forth in rows in a pretty cable and rib pattern. Through two series of short-rows, the flat fabric is manipulated into a long oval shape. The collar is picked up from the body and worked in a cable pattern against a k1, p1 ribbed foundation to form reversible fabric. Wear the collar standing up for drama or fold it over for a more casual look.

(see Glossary) to join the exposed CO sts to Getting started Stitch Guide the last row of knitting to form a ring. With 2/2 LC yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and RS Finished Size About 24 (27½)" (61 [70] cm) Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 facing, use the mattress st (see Glossary) to wide and 13" (33 cm) long. from cn. sew up the center of the ring to form an Yarn Worsted weight (#4 Medium). Shown 2/2 RC oval (oval shape will become more obvious here: Malabrigo Worsted (100% merino; 210 yd Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2, k2 after blocking). Wet-block and pin to fin- [192 m]/ 100 g): #52 Paris Nights, 3 (3) skeins. from cn. ished measurements. Let air-dry completely Needles Size U.S. 8 (5 mm): 24" (60 cm) 8/8 LC in Ribbing before removing pins. circular (cir). Ribbing: size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm): 32" Sl 8 sts onto cn and hold in front, [k1, p1] 4 (80 cm) cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to times, [k1, p1] 4 times from cn. Edging and Collar obtain the correct gauge. 8/8 RC in Ribbing With WS tog, fold oval in half along center Notions Contrasting waste yarn for provision- Sl 8 sts onto cn and hold in back, [k1, p1] 4 seam. Mark both edges on each side of oval al cast-on; cable needle (cn); markers (m); times, [k1, p1] 4 times from cn. about 8" (20.5 cm) from fold for armhole tapestry needle. placement. Gauge 24 stitches and 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Back With RS facing and using larger cir needle, cable pattern with smaller needle; 25 stitches = With waste yarn and working yarn, use a pick up and knit 120 (130) sts along one 4" (10 cm) in ribbing pattern with larger needle. provisional method (see Glossary) to CO 40 long side of the oval, turn and pick up 120 sts. (130) sts along the other long side of the Work Rows 1–24 of Back Cable chart, then oval—240 (260) sts total. Place marker (pm) rep Rows 5–24 one (two) more times, then and join for working in rnds. work Rows 5–14 once more—54 (74) rows Note: Omitting the shorter sides of the total. Work Rows 1–160 of Short-Row chart oval when joining in the round creates the (see pages 4 and 5), hiding wraps by work- beginning of the sleeves. ing them tog with wrapped sts when you Set–up rnd: *[K1, p1] 2 times, (k1, p1) in come to them on subsequent rows (see same st; rep from *—288 (312) sts. Glossary). Rep Rnds 1–12 of Edging and Collar Cable Rep Rows 1 and 2 of Back Cable chart, then chart until edging measures about 6" (15 rep Rows 5–24 of Back Cable chart three cm) from pick-up rnd, ending with Rnd 5 (four) more times, then rep Rows 5–14 once or 11. Use a modification of the yarnover more, then rep Rows 1–160 of Short-Row method (see page XX) to BO loosely in rib chart, then rep Rows 1 and 2 of Back Cable as foll: K1, *yo, p1, insert left needle tip into chart, then rep Rows 5–20 of Back Cable the first knit st and yo, and pass both off the chart once more—piece measures about needle, leaving purl st on right needle tip, 11½ (15)" (29 [38] cm) from CO along edge yo, k1, insert left needle tip into first purl st at center of oval between sets of short-rows. and yo and pass both off the needle, leaving knit right needle tip; rep from *. Finishing With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, Carefully remove the waste yarn from the sew 2½ (2)" (6.5 [5] cm) sleeve seams from provisional CO and place the live sts on a the beginning of the edging to the sleeve needle. Use the three-needle BO method edge. Weave in loose ends. Block again.

23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5

Back Cable chart 3 1 Back Cable chart 23

21 23 19 Edging and Collar Cable chart 21 17 19 11 15 17 9 13 7 15 11 5 13 3 9 11 1 7 9 5 7 3 5 1 3 k on RS; p on WS

1 p on RS; k on WS

k1 tbl on RS; p1 tbl on WS

Edging and Collar Cable chart short-row wrap and turn

2/2 RC Edging and Collar Cable chart 11 2/2 LC 9 11 8/8 LC in Ribbing 7 9 8/8 RC in Ribbing 5 7 pattern repeat 3 5 no stitch 1 3 21 (24½)" 1 53.5 (62) cm

Don’t be concerned if the 8" shrug doesn’t look like an 20.5 cm oval before blocking.k on The RS; p on WS ribbing and cables kp on on RS; RS; p k onon WSWS condense the fabric and 13" proper pinningpk1 on andtbl RS; on k RS;on p1WS33 tbl cm on WS blocking are needed to achieve the oval k1short-rowshape. tbl on RS; wrap p1 tbland on turn WS 6½" Blocking will help you see 16.5 cm where to pick up stitchesshort-row2/2 RC wrap and turn for the collar, too. 2/22/2 RCLC

2/28/8 LCLC in Ribbing 6½" 11 (14½)" 16.5 cm 28 (37) cm 8/88/8 LCRC inin RibbingRibbing

8/8pattern RC in repeat Ribbing

patternno stitch repeat 24 (27½)" 61 (70) cm no stitch Ring of Cables Oval Shrug originally published in A Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2010. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com Visit InterweaveStore.com/knittingdailytv for more great patterns! page 3 Back Cable chart

23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1

Edging and Collar Cable chart

11 9 7 5 3 1

Short Row 1–81 Short Row 82–160 81 k on RS; p on WS

79 p on RS; k on WS 159

77 k1 tbl on RS; p1 tbl on WS 157

75 short-row wrap and turn 155

73 2/2 RC 153

71 2/2 LC 151

69 8/8 LC in Ribbing 149

67 8/8 RC in Ribbing 147

65 pattern repeat 145

63 no stitch 143 61 141 59 139 57 137 55 135

53 133 51 131 49 129 47 127 45 125 43 123 41 121 39 119 37 117 35 115 33 113 31 111 29 109 27 107 25 105 23 103

21 101 19 99 17 97 15 95 13 93 11 91 9 89 7 87 5 85

3 83 1

23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1

Edging and Collar Cable chart

11 9 7 5 3 1

Short Row 1–81 Short Row 82–160 81 k on RS; p on WS 79 159 p on RS; k on WS 77 157 k1 tbl on RS; p1 tbl on WS 75 155 short-row wrap and turn 73 153 2/2 RC 71 151 69 149 2/2 LC 67 147 8/8 LC in Ribbing 65 145 8/8 RC in Ribbing 63 143 pattern repeat 61 141 no stitch 59 139 57 137 55 135

53 133 51 131 49 129 47 127 45 125 43 123 41 121 39 119 37 117 35 115 33 113 31 111 29 109 27 107 25 105 23 103 21 101 19 99 17 97 15 95 13 93 11 91 9 89 7 87 5 85 3 83 1

Ring of Cables Oval Shrug originally published in A Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2010. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com Visit InterweaveStore.com/knittingdailytv for more great patterns! page 5 Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch Mattress Stitch Seam Work to turn point, slip next stitch With RS of knitting facing, use threaded needle to pick up one purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to bar between first two stitches on one piece (Figure 1), then cor- front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back responding bar plus the bar above it on other piece (Figure 2). to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and *Pick up next two bars on first piece, then next two bars on other Figure 1 bring yarn in position for next stitch, (Figure 3). Repeat from * to end of seam, finishing by picking up wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: last bar (or pair of bars) at the top of first piece. Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit Figure 2 stitch: On right side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap Figure 1 Figure 3 from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit Figure 2 them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold put on left needle. Purl them together. waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste Three-Needle Bind-Off yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, over both yarns, and grab a second Place stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re ready to work in the them with right sides of knitting facing together. Insert a third opposite direction, pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches. needle into first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch over second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Yarnover Bind-Off The yarnover bind-off is extremely elastic and allows you to block and stretch your project without any restriction from the invisible vertical seam (mattress stitch) bind-off edge. (Also called ladder stitch.) With the right side of the knitting K1, *yo, k1 (Figure 1), then lift the yo and the first st over the facing you, use a threaded needle to pick up one bar between the second st and off the needle (Figure 2) to BO 1 st; rep from * for first two stitches on one piece(Figure 1), then the corresponding desired number of sts. bar plus the bar above it on the other piece (Figure 2). *Pick up the next two bars on the first piece, then the next two bars on the other (Figure 3). Repeat from * to the end of the seam, finishing by picking up the last bar (or pair of bars) at the top of the first piece. To reduce bulk, pick up the bars in the center of the edge stitches instead of between the last two stitches. To prevent a half-row displacement at the seam, be sure to start the seam by Figure 1 Figure 2 picking up just one bar on the first side, then alternate two bars on each side.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Summit American Yak Wrap by Kristin Omdahl Originally published in A Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2010 Joe Hancock

I DESIGNED THIS WRAP AS AN EXPERIMENT IN JOINING KNITTED LACE STRIPS to create a reversible rectangular wrap with arm openings. The two center strips are worked in three separate pieces to accommodate the armholes; the outside strips extend the full width of the wrap. The strips are joined in a method similar to a three-needle bind-off, but worked over two rows—the stitches are knitted together on the first row, then bound off on the second row. The wrap is finished with two types of edging—the first is worked in the round to form a border around the joined strips, the second is worked perpendicularly to the live stitches.

Notes ROW 3: K1, *K2tog; rep from * to last st, Getting started • A monochromatic wrap will require 6 k1—132 sts rem. skeins total. ROWS 4 AND 5: K1, *yo, k2 tog; rep from * to Finished Size About 22" (56 cm) wide and • This lace-stitch pattern is reversible, not last st, k1. 1 58 ⁄4" (148 cm) long. Each small strip measures because the stitches are identical on both ROWS 6 AND 7: Knit. 3½" (9 cm) wide and 16¾" (42.5 cm) long; each sides, but because there is an odd number Rep Rows 1–7 once, then rep Rows 1–3 large strip measures 3½" (9 cm) wide and 50¼" of rows in the repeat—every other repeat once more—piece measures about 3½" (9 (127 cm) long. has an opposite right side. Theoretically, cm) from CO. BO as for short strip. Yarn Sportweight (#2 Fine). you could add an additional row to any Shown here: Bijou Basin Ranch 50/50 Yak/ stitch pattern to make it reversible in this Join Strips Cormo Wool Blend (50% yak, 50% American fashion. Notes: For an element of color and design, cormo; 150 yd [137 m]/2 oz): Cream (A), 5 join strips with B; for a more uniform look, skeins; Heathered Gray Brown (B) 1 skein. Stitch Guide join strips with A. Holding 2 strips tog, pick Needles Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): straight, 32" (80 Bobble (MB) up and knit through the large holes formed cm) circular (cir), and one double-pointed ([K1, p1] 2 times, k1) in same st to make by yarnovers in the BO row of both thick- (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain 5 sts, turn work, [k5, turn work] 3 times, nesses for the same number of stitches as the correct gauge. k5tog—1 st. were CO as foll. Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle. Join Two Short Strips Gauge 10½ stitches and 20 rows = 4" (10 cm) Short Strip (makes 6) (make 3 sets of 2 joined short strips) in lace pattern, after blocking. With A and straight needles, CO 44 sts. ROW 1: K1, *yo, k1; rep from * to last st, ROW 1: Holding both strips together, pick k1—86 sts. up and knit 44 sts along CO edge. ROW 2: K1, purl to last st, k1. ROW 2: Use the yarnover method to BO as ROW 3: K1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, foll: K1, *yo, k1, use left needle tip to pick k1—44 sts rem. both the first knit st and yo over the other ROWS 4 AND 5: K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to knit st and off the needles (1 st rem on right last st, k1. needle tip); rep from *—1 st rem. ROWS 6 AND 7: Knit. Fasten off. Rep Rows 1–7 once, then rep Rows 1–3 once more—piece measures about 3½" (9 Join Short-Strip Pairs to Long Strips cm) from CO. Use the yarnover method (see Following the schematic on page 3, work as foll: Glossary) to BO as foll: K1, *yo k1, insert left ROW 1: Holding the edge of one short strip needle tip into both yo and first st on right needle tip, and lift them over the last st on tog with the beg of a long strip, pick up and right needle; rep from *. Fasten off last st. knit 44 sts, hold second short strip together with middle of same long strip with end Long Strip (makes 2) next to end of first short strip, pick up and With A and straight needles, CO 132 sts. knit 44 sts, hold third short strip together ROW 1: K1, *yo, k1; rep from * to last st, with end of same long strip with end next to k1—262 sts. end of second short strip, pick up and knit ROW 2: K1, purl to last st, k1. 44 sts—132 sts total.

Summit American Yak Wrap originally published in A Knitting Wrapsody, Interweave 2010. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com Visit InterweaveStore.com/knittingdailytv for more great patterns! page 2 ROW 2: Use the yarnover method to BO as foll 4th row. before. ROW 1: With A and dpn, CO 7 sts. Fasten off. ROW 2: K6, k2tog (last edge st and 1 wrap Repeat Rows 1 and 2 to join the opposite st). Notice that the wrap sts are a different side of the short strips to the second long color than the edging sts. strip. ROW 3: K3, yo, k4—8 sts. ROW 4: K7, k2tog (last edge st and 1 wrap st). Finishing ROW 5: K3, yo, k5—9 sts. First Edging ROW 6: K8, k2tog (last edge st and 1 wrap Note: This edging is worked in garter stitch st). (alternate knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd); place a ROW 7: K3, yo, k6—10 sts. marker (m) before each corner st to remind ROW 8: K9, k2tog (last edge st and 1 wrap st). you to work corner incs. ROW 9: K3, yo, k7—11 sts. RND 1: With B, cir needle, RS facing, and beg ROW 10: K10, k2tog (last edge st and 1 wrap at one corner, pick up and knit 12 sts along st). the short edge of each strip, 1 st in each join, ROW 11 (BOBBLE ROW): K3, yo, k7, MB (see 1 st in each corner, and 132 sts along the page 74). long side of each strip—370 sts total. ROW 12: BO 6 sts, k5, k2tog (last edge st and Place marker (pm) and join for working in 1 wrap st)—6 sts rem. rnds. ROW 13: K3, yo, k3—7 sts. RND 2: Purl. RND 8: Purl. ROW 14–24: Rep Rows 2–12 once. RND 3: With A, k1, M1 (see Glossary), *knit to RNDS 9–10: Rep Rnds 5–6—402 sts. Rep Rows 13–24 until all wrap st have been 2 sts before corner m, M1, k1, slip marker (sl used. BO rem sts. Cut yarn, leaving a 20" (51 m), M1; rep from * 2 more times, knit to end, Second Edging cm) tail. Thread tail on a tapestry needle and M1—8 sts inc’d; 378 sts. Notes: This edging is worked with a dpn sew CO edge to BO edge. RND 4: Purl. perpendicularly to the live sts. At each RND 5: With B, rep Rnd 3—386 sts. corner, work 3 rows before joining to corner Weave in loose ends. Wet-block and pin to RND 6: Purl. wrap st at end of 4th row, then work 3 rows finished measurements. Let air-dry com- RND 7: With A, Rep Rnd 3—394 sts before joining to next live wrap st at end of pletely before removing pins.

Joining Diagram

3rd joining row

1st joining rows

2nd joining row

For a solid rectangular wrap without sleeve openings, knit five long strips and join them accordingly. Knit and join only three long strips for a beautiful scarf.

Work to turn point, slip next stitch Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1 purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to With left needle tip, lift strand front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back between needles from front to to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop Figure 1 bring yarn in position for next stitch, Figure 1 Figure 2 through the back (Figure 2). wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right Right Slant (M1R) With left needle tip, lift strand side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. between needles from back to Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit Figure 2 through the front (Figure 2). stitch: On right side, work to just before Figure 1 Figure 2 wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit Purlwise (M1P) With left needle tip, lift strand them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. between needles, from back Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. to front (Figure 1). Purl lifted Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and loop (Figure 2). put on left needle. Purl them together. Figure 1 Figure 2

Yarnover Bind-Off The yarnover bind-off is extremely elastic and allows you to Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On block and stretch your project without any restriction from the Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold bind-off edge. waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working K1, *yo, k1 (Figure 1), then lift the yo and the first st over the yarn over left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste second st and off the needle (Figure 2) to BO 1 st; rep from * for yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), desired number of sts. then bring needle to the front, over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 1 Figure 2

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How to Make a Gauge Swatch Ch 3, join with sl st to form a ring. Rows 1 and 2: Work same as Rows 1 and 2 on square. Swatch should measure 1½” from ring to top of last dc on Row 2. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Note: Squares are fan-shaped and a bit off-kilter to form a swirled effect when joined together.

THROW Square (make 35) Ch 3, join with slip st to form a ring. Row 1 (right side): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 6 dc in ring – 7 dc. Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2 space on next row now and throughout), turn. Row 2: Skip next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc] twice, dc in 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 – 4 dc and 3 ch-2 spaces. Ch 3 (counts as dc on next row now and throughout), turn. Row 3: [Work 3 dc in next ch-space, 2 dc in next dc] twice, 3 dc in next ch-space, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-5 – 15 dc. Ch 5, turn. Row 4: Skip next 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc] 5 times, skip next dc, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-3 – 7 dc and 6 ch-2 spaces. Ch 3, turn. Row 5: [Work 2 dc in next ch-space, dc in next dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next ch-space, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-5 – 19 dc. Ch 5, turn. Row 6: Skip next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc] 8 times, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-3 – 10 dc and 9 ch-2 spaces. Ch 3, turn. Row 7: [Work 2 dc in next ch-space, dc in next dc] 4 Swirling Fans Throw times, 3 dc in next ch-space, [dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-space] 4 times, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-5 – 29 dc. Ch CTMar08-56 5, turn. Row 8: Skip next 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc] 12 times, skip next dc, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-3 – 14 dc Designed by Katherine Eng. and 13 ch-2 spaces. Ch 3, turn. Row 9: [Work 2 dc in next ch-space, dc in next dc] 12 Finished Measurements: 46” x 52” times, 2 dc in next ch-space, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-5 – 40 dc. Ch 5, turn. RED HEART® “Soft Yarn”: 7 balls 4601 Off White Row 10: [Skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2] twice; *[skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch 2] 6 times*; skip next 2 dc, dc in Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9] next dc, ch 2; repeat from * to * once; skip next 2 dc, dc in Yarn needle next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-3 – 18 dc and 17 ch-2 spaces. Fasten off. gauge: Rows 1 and 2 = 1½” along edge. Square = 8” Row 11: With right side facing, join with slip st in 5th dc on square. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to Row 10, sc in next ch-space and in next dc, hdc in next obtain the gauge. ch-space and in next dc, dc in next ch-space and in next dc, tr in next ch-space and in next dc; *(tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch-space (corner space made in center ch-space on Row 10); tr in next dc and in next ch-space, dc in next dc and

©2010 Coats & Clark For more ideas & inspiration — P.O. Box 12229 www.redheart.com www.coatsandclark.com Greenville, SC 29612-0229 www.crochettoday.com www.redheart.com in next ch-space, hdc in next dc and in next ch-space, sc from * around, working [7 dc in corner ch-4 space (corner in next dc and in next ch-space, slip st in next dc. Do not shell made), sc in next ch-4 space] at each remaining fasten off. corner – 106 shells and 4 corner shells. Join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-3. Square Border Round 3: Slip st in next 3 dc, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2 Note: Round 2 is joining round. See “assembly” for space), dc in same dc as last slip st; ch 1, skip next dc, instructions on working joining of squares 2–35 while dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next sc, work [ch 1, working Round 2 of border. skip next dc, dc in next dc (2nd dc of shell), ch 2, skip next dc, dc in next dc (4th dc of shell), ch 1, skip next dc, dc in Round 1: Starting in next ch-space, sc evenly around next sc] in each shell around and [ch 1, skip next dc, dc entire piece working 2 sc in each remaining ch-space on in next dc (2nd dc of shell), ch 1, skip next dc, (dc, ch 2, Row 10, sc in each remaining dc on Row 10, 2 sc around dc) in next dc (center dc of shell), ch 1, skip next dc, dc in post of each dc and in turning ch-spaces along edges of next dc (6th dc of shell), ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next sc] rows, sc in each st on Row 11, (sc, ch 2, sc) in each of in each corner shell. Join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning 3 corner sts or spaces on Rows 10 and 11 (corner st at ch-5. beginning of Row 10 is 3rd ch of turning ch-5) and (2 sc, Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 5 dc in each corner ch 2, 2 sc) in beginning ring, ending with sc in slip st – 4 ch-2 space, 3 dc in each ch-2 space along sides, dc in corner ch-2 spaces and 92 sc (23 sc on each side between each ch-1 space and in each dc around. Join with slip st in corner ch-2 spaces). Join with slip st in first sc. 3rd ch of beginning ch-3. Round 2: *Ch 4, skip next 2 sc, slip st in next sc; repeat Round 5: Ch 1, sc in same ch as joining; *ch 1, skip next from * around working (slip st, ch 4, slip st) in each corner dc, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next dc] 3 times, ch 1, skip next dc, sc ch-2 space – 36 ch-4 spaces. Join with slip st in joining slip in next dc; [ch 1, skip next dc, sc in next dc] 3 times*; **ch st. Fasten off. 1, skip next dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next dc (center dc of 3 dc worked in ch-2 space along side), [ch 1, skip next dc, sc in Assembly next dc] 3 times**; repeat from ** to ** along sides, ending See Construction Diagram. Join squares into 5 columns with one additional repeat of [ch 1, skip next dc, sc in next with 7 squares in each column. In columns 1, 3, and 5, dc] before corners; repeat from * to * in corners, ending fans should point down and to the right. In columns 2 with ch 1, skip next dc, join with slip st in first sc. and 4, fans should point up and to the right. Join on 1 or Round 6: Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sc as joining; *ch 1, 2 sides as necessary while working Round 2 of border. (sc, ch 3, sc) in first ch-2 space in corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 4, sc) To join ch-4 spaces on 1 side of square, continuing in 2nd ch-2 space in corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 3rd ch-2 in pattern st, ch 2, drop loop, draw loop under to over space in corner, ch 1, sk next sc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next sc, through corresponding ch-4 space on adjacent square, ch 3, skip next sc, slip st in next sc*; **ch 3, skip next 2 sc, ch 2 and continue in pattern st. When joining 2 sides of (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-2 space, ch 3, skip next 2 sc, slip st square where corner of square meets corner of 3 adjacent in next sc**; repeat from ** to ** along sides, ending with [ch squares, ch 2, drop loop, draw loop under to over through 3, sk next sc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next sc] before each corner corresponding corner ch-4 space on first adjacent square, (except beginning corner) and repeating from * to * in each ch 1, drop loop, skip corner ch-4 space on 2nd adjacent rem corner. Ch 3, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. square, draw loop under to over through corresponding corner ch-4 space on 3rd adjacent square, ch 2 and Finishing continue in pattern st. Weave in all ends. Block lightly.

Edging Round 1: With right side facing, join with slip st in any RED HEART® “Soft Yarn”, Art. 728 corner ch-4 space, ch 4, slip st in same ch-space as available in 5oz (140g), 256yd (234m) balls joining; *ch 4, slip st in next ch-4 space; repeat from * around, working (ch 4, slip st in each of next 2 joined corner ch-4 spaces) at each joining seam of squares and ABBREVIATIONS: ch(s) = chain(s); dc = double (ch 4, slip st) twice in each of 4 corner ch-4 spaces – 220 crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sc = single crochet; ch-4 spaces. Ch 4, join with slip st in joining slip st. st(s) = stich(es); tr = treble crochet; yo = yarn over; Round 2: Slip st in next corner ch-4 space, ch 3 (counts * = Repeat directions following * as many times as as dc), work 6 dc in same corner ch-4 space (beginning indicated; [ ] = Work directions inside brackets as many corner shell made), sc in next ch-4 space; *5 dc in next times as indicated; ( ) = Work directions inside parentheses ch-4 space (shell made), sc in next ch-4 space; repeat into stitch or space indicated.

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CONSTRUCTION DIAGRAM

Free Knitting Pattern Lion Brand® Wool-Ease® Tabard Vest Pattern Number: 80398AD

Vests are perfect for winter, and this gorgeous tunic features a fashionable shawl collar. Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn Lion Brand® Wool-Ease® Tabard Vest Pattern Number: 80398AD SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

SIZE: Medium, Large, 1X Finished Bust 36 (39 1/2, 43) in. (91.5 (99, 109) cm) Finished Length 28 (28 1/2, 29) in. (71 (72.5, 73.5) cm) Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

CORRECTIONS: None

MATERIALS • 620-402 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Yarn: Wheat 7 (8, 9) Balls • Lion Brand Stitch Markers • Lion Brand Stitch Holders • Large-Eyed Blunt Needles • Additional Materials Circular needle size 7 (4.5 mm), 29 in. (73.5 cm) long

Circular needle size 8 (5 mm), 29 in. (73.5 cm) long Four buttons, 1 3/8 in. (35 mm) diameter

GAUGE:

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS) using larger needles. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

M1 as if to purl (make 1 st as if to purl) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal thread lying between the needles and placing it onto the left needle. Purl this new stitch through the back loop. s2kp Slip 2 sts to right needle, knit 1, pass 2 sts over—2 sts decreased. sk2p Slip 1 st to right needle, knit 2 together, pass st over—2 sts decreased. ssk (slip, slip, knit) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; insert left needle into fronts of these 2 sts and knit them tog.

PATTERN STITCHES K1, p1 Rib (over odd number of sts) Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Row 2: K the knits and p the purls. Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

VEST Chart 1 Pattern Row 1 (RS): P6, k2tog, yo, p6. Row 2: Knit. Row 3: P6, yo, ssk, p6. Row 4: Knit. Rep Rows 1–4 for Chart 1 pattern.

Chart 2 Pattern (Sizes S/L and 1X) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: *K5, p3*; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 4: P1, *k3, p5; repeat from * to end. Row 5: *K5, yo, s2kp, yo; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Knit. Row 8: Purl. Row 9: K1, *p3, k5; rep from * to end. Row 10: *P5, k3; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 11: *K1, yo, s2kp, yo, k5; rep from * to end. Row 12: Purl. Rep Rows 1–12 for Chart 2 pattern.

Chart 2 Pattern (Size M) Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: *K5, p3*; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5. Row 4: *P5, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, p5. Row 5: *K5, yo, s2kp, yo; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Knit. Row 8: Purl. Row 9: K1, *p3, k5; rep to last 4 sts, p3, k1. Row 10: P1, *k3, p5; rep from * to last 4 sts, k3, p1. Row 11: *K1, yo, s2kp, yo, k5; rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, s2kp, yo, k1. Row 12: Purl. Rep Rows 1–12 for Chart 2 pattern.

Chart 3 Pattern Row 1 (RS): P2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2, p2, k10, k3tog, (yo, k1) twice, p2, k2, p2, yo, ssk, p2. Row 2 and all WS Rows: (K2, p2) twice, k2, p15, (k2, p2) twice, k2. Row 3: P2, yo, ssk, p2, k2, p2, k7, k3tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2 (twice), k2tog, yo, p2. Row 5: P2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2, p2, k5, k3tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, k2, p2, yo, ssk, p2. Row 7: P2, yo, ssk, p2, k2, p2, k3, k3tog, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, p2, k2, p2, k2tog, yo, p2. Row 9: P2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2, p2, k1, yo, k1, yo, s2kp, k10, p2, k2, p2, yo, ssk, p2. Row 11: P2, yo, ssk, p2, k2 (twice), yo, k1, k2, yo, s2kp, k7, p2, k2, p2, k2tog, yo, p2. Row 13: P2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, s2kp, k5, p2, k2, p2, yo, ssk, p2. Row 15: P2, yo, ssk, p2, k2, p2, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, s2kp, k3, p2, k2, p2, k2tog, yo, p2. Row 16: Rep Row 2. Rep Rows 1–16 for Chart 3 pattern.

BACK Lower Rib Band With smaller circular needles, cast on 123 (133, 143) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib back and forth on circular needle as if working on straight needles for 8 rows. Dec Row (RS): Work in K1, p1 Rib as established over 4 sts, sk2p, work in K1, p1 Rib to last 7 sts, k3tog, work in K1, p1 Rib over last 4 sts – 119 (129, 139) sts. Continue in K1, p1 Rib as established, AT THE SAME TIME, rep last dec row every 8th row once more – 115 (125, 135) sts. Work even until piece measures 3 1/2 in. (9 cm) from beg, end with a RS row. Dec Row (WS): P3, (p4, p2tog) 18 (20, 22) times, p4 (2, 0) – 97 (105, 113) sts. Establish Pattern Change to larger circular needles. Row 1 (RS): Work 14 sts of Chart 1; work 17 (21, 25) sts of Chart 2; work 35 sts of Chart 3; work 17 (21, 25) sts of Chart 2; work 14 sts in Chart 1. Work as established, following charts in this manner, for a total of 16 rows. Dec Row (RS): P4, p2tog, work 6 sts as established, p2tog; work in pattern as established to the last 14 sts; p2tog, work 6 sts as established, p2tog, p4 – 93 (101, 109) sts. Dec 4 sts in this way (in the 2 purl sections at the beg and 2 purl sections at the end) every 8th row 3 more times – 81 (89, 97) sts. Work even until piece measures 17 in. (43 cm) from beg. Mark each end of last row (for beg of armhole shaping).

Shape Armhole Inc Row (RS): P1, M1 as if to purl, work 4 sts as established, M1 as if to purl; work in pattern as established to last 5 sts; M1 as if to purl, work 4 sts, M1 as if to purl, p1 – 85 (93, 101) sts. Work the inc row (working M1 as if to purl each side of the eyelet) every 6th row twice more – 93 (101, 109) sts. Work even until piece measures 8 (8 1/2, 9) in. (20.5 (22, 23) cm) above beg of armhole shaping, end with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 12 (8, 0) rows, 4 sts at beg of next 0 (4, 12) rows – 57 (61, 61) sts.

Shape Neck Next Row (RS): Bind off 3 (4, 4) sts, work as established over next 16 (17, 17) sts; join a 2nd ball of yarn and bind off 19 sts; work as established to end. Work both sides at same time with separate balls of yarn. Next Row (WS): Bind off 3 (4, 4) sts, work as established to end – 16 (17, 17) sts on each side. Next 2 Rows: Bind off 3 (4, 4) sts, work as established to end of first side, bind off 5 sts at neck edge of 2nd side, work as established to end – 8 (8, 8) sts on each side. Next 2 Rows: Bind off 4 sts, work as established to end of first side, bind off 4 sts at neck edge of 2nd side, work as established to end.

FRONT Work lower rib band as for Back – 97 (105, 113) sts.

Establish Patterns and Separate for Pocket and Lining Change to larger needles. Next Row (RS): Work 14 sts of Chart 1, sl the next 69 (77, 85) sts to a st holder (for pocket), cast on 69 (77, 85) sts, work 14 sts of Chart 1. Beg with Row 2 of charts, work 14 sts of Chart 1; work 17 (21, 25) sts of Chart 2; work 35 sts of Chart 3; work 17 (21, 25) sts of Chart 2; work 14 sts in Chart 1 for a total of 16 rows. Dec Row (RS): P4, p2tog, work 6 sts as established, p2tog; work in pattern as established to the last 14 sts; p2tog, work 6 sts as established, p2tog, p4 – 93 (101, 109) sts. Dec 4 sts in this way (in the 2 purl sections at the beg and 2 purl sections at the end) every 8th row 3 more times – 81 (89, 97) sts. Work even until piece measures 8 in. (20.5 cm) above rib; end with Row 15 (RS) of Chart 3. Slip these sts onto a holder (for lining).

Pocket From RS, rejoin yarn to work the pocket sts. Row 1 (RS): Cast on 1 st, purl this st, beg with Row 1 of charts, work 17 (21, 25) sts of Chart 2, 35 sts of Chart 3, 17 (21, 25) sts of Chart 2. Row 2 (WS): Cast on 1 st and k this st, work as established to end. Work even as established on 71 (79, 87) sts until pocket measures about 3 in. (7.5 cm) above the rib; end with a WS row.

Shape Pocket Continue to work in established pattern while dec as follows: Bind off 5 (6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 (4, 4) rows. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 10 (10, 14) rows – 35 sts. Work even as established on remaining sts until pocket measures the same length as lining. Leave these sts on needle.

Join Pocket and Lining Next Row (WS): Work 23 (27, 31) sts of lining; with the pocket sts, purl 1 st from lining and pocket tog, continue purling 1st from lining and 1 st from pocket together until all sts of pocket are joined; work remaining 23 (27, 31) sts of lining. Continue in pattern as for Back until piece measures about 12 (12 1/2, 13) in. (30.5 (32, 33) cm) above the rib; end with a WS row.

Shape Neck Next Row (RS): Work as established over first 32 (36, 40) sts, join a 2nd ball of yarn and bind off 17 sts, work as established to end—32 (36, 40) sts on each side. Work both sides at same time with separate balls of yarn. Work even for 1 row. Dec Row (RS): Work as established to last 11 sts on first side, k2tog, work 9 sts as established; on 2nd side, work 9 sts as established, ssk, work as established to end – 31 (35, 39) sts on each side. Rep this dec row every 6th row 9 more times, AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures about 17 in. (43 cm) from beg, mark each end of last row (for armholes), then work 3 inc rows as for Back. Work even until piece measures same as Back to shoulder; end with a WS row – 28 (32, 36) sts on each side.

Shape Shoulder Bind off 3 sts from each shoulder edge 8 (4, 0) times, 4 sts 1 (5, 9) times. FINISHING Sew shoulder seams.

Pocket Trim From RS, with smaller needles, pick up and k33 (37, 41) sts along pocket edge. Work in K1, p1 Rib for 2 rows. Bind off. Rep along opposite pocket edge. Sew pocket sides in place on Front and sew lining to lower edge on WS.

Side Bands Using the 4 armhole markers as a guide, place one more marker 5 1/2 in. (14 cm) below each of these 4 markers. Left Edge Band: From RS with circular needle, beg at lower left front, pick up and k60 sts evenly spaced to the first marker, slip marker, 28 sts to the 2nd marker, slip marker, 53 (56, 59) sts to the shoulder, 1 st at shoulder, 53 (56, 59) sts to the next marker, remove marker, 28 sts to the last marker, remove marker, 60 sts to the lower edge – 283 (289, 295) sts. Work in K1, P1 rib for 5 rows. Next Row (Buttonhole – RS): *Work in K1, p1 Rib to 2 sts before next marker, bind off 5 sts (for button hole); repeat from * once more; work in K1, p1 rib to end. Next Row (Buttonhole – WS): Work in K1, p1 Rib across, casting on 5 sts over each of 5 bound off sts. Continue in K1, p1 Rib for 5 more rows. Bind off. Work the right edge band in same way, ensuring that buttonholes are worked along the front edge.

Collar From RS with circular needle, pick up and k41 sts evenly spaced across back neck. Row 1 (WS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): Cast on 8 sts, p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 3 (WS): Cast on 8 sts, k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end – 57 sts. Rep last 2 rows 9 more times – 201 sts. Work even as established for about 4 in. (10 cm) or until collar fits across the opening at center front. Bind off. Sew the collar to entire front, with the right edge of collar overlapping the left edge. Sew buttons to back bands opposite buttonholes.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES Click for explanation and illustration beg = begin(s)(ning) dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) inc = increas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit k2tog = knit 2 together k3tog = knit 3 together p = purl p2tog = purl 2 together rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side sl = slip St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es) tbl = through the back loop tog = together WS = wrong side yo = yarn over

Learn to knit instructions:http://learnToKnit.LionBrand.com

For hundreds of free patterns, visit our website www.LionBrand.com To order visit our website www.e-yarn.com or call: (800) 258-YARN (9276) any time! Copyright ©1998-2005 Lion Brand Yarn Company, all rights reserved. No pattern or other material may be reproduced -- mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying -- without written permission of Lion Brand Yarn Company. If you would like to send a copy of this page to someone, click here and we will be happy to do it for you. TURN A SQUARE by JARED FLOOD A striped handknit hat, perfect for gift-knitting or using up leftover yarn scraps.

WWW.BROOKLYNTWEED.NET BLUEPRINT SIZE Average Adult MATERIALS 40g of worsted weight wool in a Solid Color (MC) 25g of worsted weight wool in a Self-Striping Color (CC) NEEDLES Two 16” circular needles: One in size needed to get gauge, the other two sizes smaller. One set of DPNs in larger size. Suggested needle sizes: US5 (3.75mm) & US7 (4.5mm) GAUGE 5 stitches to 1 inch in Stockinette Stitch with larger needle TOOLS 4 stitch markers & a blunt tapestry needle

SPECIAL NOTES I recommend working jogless stripes on this project so that the “seam” line at the beginning of each round remains virtually invisible.

Here’s how: When changing to a new color, knit one full round of the new color. When you reach the first stitch of your second round, pick up a loop of the previous color from the preceding row (the 1st stitch of the last round worked in the old color) and place it on the tip of your L needle. Now, knit both the 1st stitch of the new color and the picked up stitch of the old color together (as for a standard k2tog). Continue the rest of your round as normal. Repeat these instructions at every color change. An online tutorial of this technique (with photos) can be found here: http://www.socknitters.com/kickback/joglessjog.htm SCHEMATIC Note: Hat is knit in-the-round. Schematic is illustrated ‘flat’ to show overall shaping of piece

HEIGHT (Before Crown) 5 inches 2

TOTAL CIRCUMFERENCE 20½ inches unstretched TURN A SQUARE This striped beanie is a great way of using up leftover scraps of yarns from larger projects. Experiment with different colors of both solids and self-striping yarns to get unique, one-of-a-kind hats for your friends and loved ones. The crown is shaped by placing double-decreases at 4 separate “compass” points. This decrease scheme causes the top of the hat to take on a square shape, which is highlighted by the continuous striping pattern. A quick and simple knit, great for last minute gifts. I hope you enjoy! PATTERN With Solid Color (MC) and smaller circular needle, cast on 96 stitches. Work in Stripe Pattern until your work measures 5” from the cast-on Place a marker and join your work into the round, being careful not to edge. You will now begin shaping the crown. twist your ring of stitches. SHAPE SQUARE-CROWN Round 1 *Knit 2, purl 2; Repeat from * around. If you have been working the jogless stripes technique, it will no longer be necessary for the remainder of the project. Repeat the last round, establishing 2 x 2 ribbing, until piece measures 1” from cast on edge. Setup Round Maintaining stripe pattern throughout crown, *knit 26, place marker; Repeat from * twice more, knit 26. Increase Round *Knit 12 stitches, make 1 (increase); Repeat from * until you reach the end of your round. You now have 4 markers placed in your round, each with 26 stitches in between -- one of which indicates the beginning of your round. (I like You will have increased 8 additional stitches over the last round & now to use a marker of an alternate color for this) have a total of 104 stitches on your needle. Round 1 K2tog, *knit until 2 stitches remain before next marker, ssk, Change to your larger circular needle and knit 2 rounds with Self- slip marker, k2tog; Repeat from * twice more, knit until 2 stitches Striping Yarn (CC). remain in round, ssk. [8 stitches decreased] Round 2 Knit all stitches Change back to MC and knit 3 rounds. Switching to DPNs when necessary, repeat the last 2 rounds, decreasing The remainder of the hat will be worked in Stockinette Stitch (knitting 8 stitches every other round, until 8 stitches remain between each all stitches on all rounds) maintaining the striping pattern you have just marker. [32 stitches total in round] established. Continue in this manner, working alternating stripes of CC (2 rounds) and MC (3 rounds), carrying the unworked yarn along the Now, work Round 1 (Decrease Round) on every round (omitting any inside of the fabric and catching it with the working yarn at every color- plain knitting rounds) until 8 stitches remain on your needle. change (see photo below). Trapping the carried yarns in this way will create a secure and clean finish on the inside of your fabric. Break your yarn, leaving a 6” tail. With your tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through the remaining live stitches and pull tightly to close the top of your hat.

Weave in all ends invisibly on the WS of fabric.

BLOCKING I recommend steam-blocking your hat, paying special attention to the base of the “square” crown shaping. If lightly steamed, the fabric will lay wonderfully flat and produce a well-rounded crown shape.

all text, photos, and illustrations copyright brooklyn tweed 2010 www.brooklyntweed.net WATERFALL

Imagine a breathtaking cascade of water, tumbling over a rocky shelf, tucked between majestic

mountains and filled with wildlife and rare wildflowers. This self-fringing wrap works up quickly,

leaving plenty of time for daydreaming.

SKILL LEVEL Intermediate

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Width: 46" Length without fringe: 17"

MATERIALS 2 skeins of Artesanal from AslanTrends (40% cotton, 30% alpaca, 30% poly- amide; 100 g/3.5 oz; 218 yds) in color 218 Size 9 (5.5 mm) needles or size required to obtain gauge Size 11 (8 mm) needles 2 stitch markers 3 purchased metal clasps

GAUGE 12 sts = 4" in waterfall patt

© 2010 by Sheryl Thies. All rights reserved. From the book Nature’s Wrapture: Contemporary Knitted Shawls To find out more about this book or to order, visit Martingale & Company at www.martingale-pub.com Row 6: K9, *P3, K3, rep from * to mist-and-pin method (see below). last 5 sts, K5. Mark placement of 3 metal clasps, Rep rows 1–6 for patt. approximately 2" apart. Sew metal hook along short edge of wrap. Sew metal eye to long edge. WRAP With smaller needles, CO 56 sts. Knit mist-and-pin method 2 rows. Work in waterfall patt until Lay the knitted piece on the surface piece measures 42", ending with and pin to specified measurements. Fill row 6. a clean spray bottle with water and Knit 2 rows. With larger needles, BO mist the piece heavily. Allow to dry all sts loosely to last 6 sts. Leave these completely before removing the pins. STITCH PATTERN 6 sts on needle. Fasten off yarn. Sl 6 waterfall sts off needle and unravel down to SHERYL’S NOTES (Multiple of 6 + 14) CO edge to create fringe. Chart on page 31. FINISHING For a sparkly look, after un- K1B: Knit 1 from row below. Knit raveling the fringe, clip each Make overhand knot near top of each loop and thread a large into center of st below next st on LH fringe and slide knot up to knit edge sequin onto each strand. Knot needle. Drop st above off LH needle. before tightening. Make a second to secure in place. overhand knot about halfway down fringe. Weave in all ends. Block using

6 5 Row 1 (RS): K1, K1B, K1, K1B, K1, 4 P3, *K3, YO, P3, rep from * to last 6 3 2 sts, K6—inc 1 st per rep—7 sts total. 1 (RS) Row 2: K9, *P4, K3, rep from * to 6-st rep, plus 1 inc st rows 1–3 last 5 sts, K5. Key Row 3: K1, K1B, K1, K1B, K1, P3, K on RS, P on WS K1B: K1 from row below *K1, K2tog, YO, K1, P3, rep from * P on RS, K on WS YO to last 6 sts, K6. K2tog on RS, P2tog on WS No st Row 4: K9, *P2, P2tog, K3, rep from * to last 5 sts, K5—dec 1 st per rep—7 46" sts total. Row 5: K1, K1B, K1, K1B, K1, P3, *K1, YO, K2tog, P3, rep from * to 17" last 6 sts, K6.