China 2006 – Ronnie Robinson

Zhengzhou, Chenjiagou & the Shaolin Temple

In October this year I revisited China Qigong in Shanghai on a trip organised by Faye Li Yip, daughter of Li De Yin, one of the most prominent tai chi practitioners in China who was responsible for the creation of a number of the new standardised forms used for competition. The main focus of our journey was to visit the 2nd World Traditional Wushu Championships held in Zhengzhou, Henan Province a town significantly placed for Chinese martial arts, being a mere 65k from Dengfeng which is 15k from the Shaolin Temple and an hour or two by car from Chenjiagou Village. Fellow travellers included my good friend Dan Docherty, Shanghai park. The park itself was beautiful, founder member of the Tai Chi Union This was Shanghai’s second airport clean and orderly, neat, protected for Great Britain and founder and which was very different from the lawns, hundreds of trees and neatly President of the Taijiquan & Qigong original one which I had travelled arranged flower gardens everywhere. Federation for Europe, Gary Wragg, through a few times before. The The locals were there in their founder member and Chairman of the service was more efficient and the hundreds practising various activities Tai Chi Union for Great Britain, Luce airport, though dull and soul-less was from taiji, qigong, ballroom dancing, Condamine a well-known French more clean and modern compared to aerobics, taiji ball, badminton and the practitioner and a few students of the original one. Once through the unusual backwards walking. In the Faye’s. customs we journeyed by bus to our main the quality of taiji was average welcoming, clean hotel rooms, took with most people doing basic health Not looking forward to the 11 hour a few minutes to unpack and freshen taiji. Because of the situation with flight we partook of a few glasses up and then went for food at the Falun Gong, teachers now had to of the amber nectar to help us to restaurant next door. After an after be registered to teach in the parks settle down for the long night ahead. Being a fairly restless traveller, this dinner stroll we said our goodnights and were now limited to particular helped considerably, making me and arranged to meet early morning practices. No longer could you see care substantially less about hiding to visit the local parks. qigong healing sessions or the more on the floor of the plane beneath esoteric practices that one often the seats. Luce being quite small, The first thing that struck those of encountered in the parks. Teachers lay comfortably over two seats us that had visited Shanghai before were identifiable by small white whilst I lay on the floor, head on a (Dan and I) was the cleanliness of cloths attached to their garments pillow with a blanket over my head, the place and the profusion of trees, and it was good to soak up the undetected to the safety vigilant air shrubs and flowers. There has been atmosphere of the daily practices of stewardesses. Some six to seven a major initiative which saw the the various groups enjoying their hours sound sleep left me feeling planting of literally thousands of morning exercises. We later left to delightfully fresh on arrival at trees and shrubs along the green and eat breakfast prepare for our onward Shanghai airport mid-afternoon the pleasant avenues on the way to the flight to Zhengzhou. following day. 1 Ronnie Robinson Entrance to Zhengzhou park Chen Mural Zhengzhou Chen Wang Ting One significant factor was that all Zhengzhou was a bustling city of entrants in this stadium were in fact medium size by Chinese standards non-Chinese natives; the Chinese but still more than enough for us competitors were in fact competing to endure the slow arduous journey in another stadium at the other side of from the airport to the hotel. Getting town. Later we would visit them. through traffic took a good two hours or so and we were all happy to Faye arranged meetings for us with settle in our quality hotel which had various eminent figures from the good sized fresh clean rooms. Once Chinese martial arts world including ensconced, we had a good dinner, her father Li De Yin, and the and then went for an evening stroll. President of the Henan Traditional Taijiquan Association. We would Everywhere along the streets one later arrange to invite a group of could see banners advertising the officials to join us (The TCUGB) competition which was obviously a early next year as guests of the major event for the city. After an hour British Tai Chi Open Championships or so walking down the long avenue up and down a fairly attractive the event with large red Chinese in April. conifer. On leaving by another exit, lanterns floating some several metres with not much of interest we retired competitors and there trainers filled small British village comprising we chanced upon a garishly painted, high. to our rooms. the vast stadium. Chenjiagou (Chen Village) of 30 or 40 buildings, a handful of paper-mache’ looking sculpture in the The next day Dan kindly arranged shops and work of various kinds shape of a taiji practitioner executing Once inside the stadium we got The next morning we once more Each of the four areas was constantly for two taxis to take us to Chenjiagou being carried out on the streets. A ‘Single-Whip’. This noble edifice a further sense of the scale of the adjourned to the local park to see in use with external arts on one side, Village, the home of Chen Style small trailer included all the tools of was deeply embedded in a garden of event. There were four performing what was on display. Once again weapons at the rear of the room and Taijiquan the original taiji style. the local bicycle repair shop whilst marigolds and geraniums, creating a areas each with four judges behind the park was noticeably clean and hand forms at the front. It seemed The journey took over two hours another served as the local café false authenticity to the proceedings desks. Each judge marked his or her orderly, so much so that the local that every competitor was guaranteed through a variety of dusty dirt tracks, dispensing simple soup, rice and that took place in the park everyday. score into computers which were in parkie reprimanded Mr Docherty for a medal, merely for being there and stopping several times for our drivers dumplings. This was the first visual sign of how turn collated by a team of six-eight sitting on the kerb, making the place those that won gold, sliver or bronze to ask directions, always to be told important the Chinese considered people behind a bank of laptops. The untidy. The park was lively with were competing in smaller groups of it was another 30 or so kilometres. It cost of £4 or £5 each for entry to taiji to their economy, more would scores were electronically displayed people training everywhere, doing up to 14. The standard was variably This went on for some time until the Chen centre, very expensive by follow later. minutes after each performance and all manner of exercises; chanting, with some nice forms on display we finally arrived at our destination. Chinese standards. Once through also relayed over a giant scoreboard modern aerobics to music, ballroom and the livelier external forms were The village itself is very primitive the entry gate the central area was 2nd World Traditional Wushu on the wall. Flags of all competing dancing and various systems of taiji. raucously cheered on by their friends. with rough hewn roads and very old about 40 metres square with typical Championships countries hung around the sides of There were even a group of ‘tree- One highly popular entrant was a small buildings. The main square, Chinese buildings around it. Again After a substantial breakfast, we the hall as hundreds of neatly attired huggers’ who meaningfully caressed young lad of around eight performing where the world famous taiji centre everything was clean with neatly went to the venue for the competition a very impressive monkey form. is located is around the size of a very manicured gardens and fairly new Competition Hall Early morning ‘tree-huggers’ itself. Gary, Luce and Lisa (an

Chen Mural buildings, (or newly renovated old American student of Fay) were buildings) in the traditional style. competing and the rest of us went to There were a number of statues experience how things were done at and memorials to the various Chen a major Chinese competition. The family members including the venue was a huge modern sports largest of which for the founder, stadium with bright new apartments Chen Wangting who of course took around the campus. On the all- central position in front to the main weather courts at the back of the ‘temple.’ Once inside the main building a couple of hundred anxious building featured various garishly competitors were honing their painted statutes of the Chen family various skills with pre-match practice members through the generations. sessions. All manner of Chinese Each were brightly coloured with martial arts were on view, Shaolin, a red painted board beneath them Wushu and internal arts. Around the signifying in questionable English pristine new buildings there were who they depicted. The other more and more banners advertising buildings were decorated with

China 2006 2 3 Ronnie Robinson Chen ‘fresco’ it was taught and practiced and what, Next door to Yang’s house in both languages. We tried to open if any, was the philosophical basis for the gate. It was closed. We knocked this highly-respected art. loudly and walked around it a few times, still no response. At the left After visiting the main buildings side of the building was a rough we checked out the on-site shop yard which contained two or three which had equally poor merchandise construction trucks, a pile of old on offer, a few swords, some silk bricks, and a couple of lines of suits, books & CDs. And even the hanging washing. At the right side I met and interviewed the good man ubiquitous plastic kung-fu figurine was a narrow lane. I walked up the some 8 years prior and when space that you can pick up in your local lane a bit and considered getting a lift permitted I reminded him of our Chinese supermarket for a few coins. over the wall and into the courtyard, previous acquaintance and gave him Chen style Taijiquan is being widely but my fear of getting back out some copies of our magazine, Tai promoted as the authentic style of again without someone to give me Chi Chuan & Internal Arts where the art which goes back some 400+ a leg over stopped me from doing I had also included his protégé’ years; unfortunately there are no so. Dan conversed with a couple of Wang Hai Jun who trained at the records, or copies of records to truly more locals but again they had no village since early childhood and is verify its passage through these long information to give either. We began now based in Manchester, England. ‘frescos’ of the different classical years. It is hard to credit that, this Ronnie inside the house of Yang Luchan to slowly walk away from the house Understandably he didn’t remember taiji styles being performed. The little, barely developed rural village, when a man came cycling down the me until I pointed out his picture paintings were of elementary school as the birthplace of a now world-wide road towards us. Thankfully he had in the list of back issues. He was standard and designed to look older activity practised by millions across the key and would let us in. pleased to see his family style than they actually were. Whole walls the globe. This being the cased I’m featured and told me he would be were painted with what looked like equally sure that in 10 or 20 years The first thing on view, facing us visiting the UK in a few months depictions of legendary tales of great ‘history’ will be recreated and Chen as we entered, was a tasteful stone and I would be welcome to join his masters although, unfortunately, Village will become an even major memorial featuring the taiji symbol. courses. there was no explanatory literature pilgrimage site for lovers of the art, The house itself consisted on two available in English. As a museum with more than enough ‘authentic’ very small rooms. Downstairs there Yang Luchan’s House to the ‘original’ taiji family style the material to satisfy their requirements. was a dusty table and chair with a The next stop on our journey was to Chen village left a lot to be desired. small wooden staircase leading to visit the place where Yang Luchan No clear information in English, Chen Zheng Lei the upper floor A dusty cardboard had stayed in the village. As the poorly painted representations of One little bonus for us was the fact picture approximately 2m x 1m information people at the Chen the past masters and their lives and that Chen Zheng Lei happened to be leaned against the steps with a family centre were occupied with little else to inform us as to how this filming his latest DVD in the main picture of Yang and some Chinese trying to keep the few visitors out of world-renowned system came to be courtyard; I took the opportunity to texts. Upstairs was a bare, empty camera range of the Grandmaster’s passed through the generations, how film and photograph the proceedings. attic. The second ground floor room filming and the village being so displayed two sets of a couple of small, we decided to find our own Receiving the secrets of tai chi ChenZhenglei bronzed figures; one of Yang humbly way there. Mr Docherty had visited being passed the secrets of taijiquan the place some years before and in a golden box and the other of two had a general idea of the direction, figures in taiji postures. The walls but with ongoing changes taking displayed various pictures of the life place, he wasn’t entirely certain. He of Yang, again with Chinese texts. stopped two or three locals who were none the wiser before we eventually A small lane led to the back garden found it some 15 – 20 minutes later. with a worn area to the right and a The small grey brick building was small pagoda at the back. A few trees surrounded by a high wall with an and shrubs surrounded this area. Here old sign pointing directly at it with is where Yang supposedly learned the the words, “Yang Luchan’s Taiji secrets of the art. At the back of the Learning place,” in both English yard the remains of a brick wall were and Chinese. The wall contained a virtually covered in bushes – here tablet inscribed, “Taijiquan Learning there was a sign (in Chinese) saying Place by Mr Yang Luchan,” again China 2006 4 Ronnie Robinson 5 The Opening Ceremoy Yang Luchan’s training yard Ironically, had it not been for Yang Later we were treated to a display of Luchan I strongly believe that Shaolin monks, again accompanied taijiquan would have died and the by fireworks and cheesy music! (It’s Chen Village would remain, as it still real hard to get their theme tune out mainly is, a small insignificant rural of your head – “Shaaaoo – Leeene! village of little interest. This being - “Shaaaoo – Leeene!) the case, I am equally convinced that in a few years time we will see The scale and production of the event a major site for taiji pilgrims to visit was certainly very impressive which with much in the way of ‘historical made it highly evident how much evidence’ and plenty opportunity time, energy and money was put in to spend time their training in this to the promotion of the competition. ‘authentic’ family art. (Witness the It seemed like a rehearsal for the development of the Shaolin Temple forthcoming Olympic Games in as a major ‘cultural’ centre, later in 2008, although Chairman Gary this article.) became increasingly convinced it was the real thing. this was where Yang concealed scene was like that of a big rock The Pop Concert himself to watch the Chen family Inside Yang’s home concert until we saw the flags of the On entering the actual stadium itself The Chinese Competitors practice. The inside roof of the various competing countries line up we immediately became aware of the The next day we returned to the pagoda had various painting around at various points along the long route. enormity of the event (particularly to competition, this time to the Chinese it with a taiji symbol at its apex. It Eventually, near the end of the line, our host country). Tens of thousands competitors. This was altogether a is doubtful that they are original, we saw the Union Jack proudly flying of people filled the stadium, roaring very different ball-game. The stadium although they look old. in the wind supported by the strong and cheering with delight every time was considerably smaller, mush less arms of our French-Vietnamese a new country entered the arena, to modern and, in fact fairly grubby and In Chenjiagou Village we are led to companion, Luce Condamine who take their pride of placed in front of grimy with a profusion of fag-ends believe that the original authentic somehow had managed to gain the assembled throng. There were around the seating area. Scoring here style of taijiquan was created. We control, much to the annoyance of three massive screens which focussed seemed much more realistic than in are also led to believe that all other our English compatriots from the on each country as they were led the other stadium used by non-native styles came from the same source. British Council for Chinese Martial through the ongoing procession Chinese and westerners. The quality In the village Yang Luchan has been Arts (BCCMA ). Despite their and we Brits (much to our surprise) seemed higher and points seemed notably relegated as a lesser figure protestations wee Luce maintained received rapturous applause on lower than the other stadium. This who was fortunate to be allowed her grip on the British standard for arrival. The stadium, it seems, was could be because the locals have to learn this secret family art. It is the next hour, proudly displaying it around 70-80% full of excited locals more to gain from getting higher harder to find his house and when more than anyone had a right to. eagerly awaiting the big show. After marks and therefore work harder you get there his subservience to the opening speeches by the officials in for it in face of fiercer competition Chen family is strongly emphasised. 2nd World Traditional Wushu After some 20 minutes or so the attendance and a few inspiring words or, perhaps they were placating the The pagoda ceiling Championships procession began towards the from a specially selected South visitors from overseas to ensure long- Later that evening we were bussed stadium. Most competing countries African competitor (also relayed term, continued support for such to a huge stadium on the outskirts were smartly attired, in sports or through massive screens) the show grand events; not for me to say. of the city to witness the official smart clothes proudly featuring began. For the next two hours we opening ceremony and celebration their national identity, however our were subjected, sorry treated, to the The Shaolin Temple of the 2nd World Traditional Wushu motley group, which consisted of very best that China had to offer in Our one-day excursion to the temple Championships. We were around one English member, one Welsh, two the shape of pop acts. The locals was not in fact our first visit there a hundred or so busses, led by Scots, one Chinese, one Jamaican were frantically waving their light this trip. The distance of time causes policed escort, through the city Rastafarian and an American, all sabres in time to the cheesy popsy me to forget the exact evening but we of Zhengzhou where everywhere causally attired in their bog-standard acts and obviously having the best did travel one night, again in many, along the route huge billboards travel gear excepting, of course, night of their lives. Frequently, when many busses with a police escort, and banners advertised this major our French-Vietnamese colleague, the music became blander and less to witness an evening concert in the event. We arrived at a huge bus park, who obviously, in anticipation of poppy they’d liven things up with a grounds of the temple. (I use the disembarked, and were then led in her special role and British flag- firework display, which again sent the word concert but they may choose lines to where we had to meet before bearer, dressed neatly in her long silk local populace into further heights of to call it something else.) The venue entering the massive stadium. The Vietnamese robe. enthusiastic applause. was stunning, utilising the very

China 2006 6 7 Ronnie Robinson Flag bearers Weight lifting A Shaolin pink rabbit The visitors get in

best in outdoor lighting to tastefully another matter. of us. Mistakenly she then told the Once entering the grounds of the groups of girls in purple and pink silk It seems that because of various illuminate the grounds of the temple, narrator that we wanted her to stop temple we were over-whelmed by ran frantically screaming in circles, fires and attacks over the years that its main buildings and the impressive A few days later our entourage immediately when all we required the magnitude of the display put on chasing each other with swords. most of the temple has been rebuilt. backdrop of Song Shan itself. Once set off, again with a hundred or so was a slightly quieter tone. This on our behalf. For over 2 hours we Neigong skills were demonstrated by Alongside the very few original the substantial crowd of spectators busses, again with police escort, on caused much upset to one Hong walked slowly through the grounds supporting the adept with the sharp edifices we saw a number of newer were finally seated the performance the hour or so trip to the Shaolin Kong native who had a go at our of the temple and constantly, at spears on his chest whilst others tablets which had been donated by began. Temple bells were quietly Temple. Leaving fairly early in the Chairman, deeming him responsible either side of us, legions of monks ran quickly up and down the tall various individuals or organisations struck as a handful of monks were morning had not prepared us for the for the disrespect he thought he gave. demonstrated their considerable wooden posts rising to some three with an interest in the work of the revealed, meditating by a pool of continuous loud commentary, solely On disembarking I quietly enquired skills. From very young children metres high. We saw the finer arts of Shaolin Monastery. In fact it was water, through the subtle use of in Chinese (despite the fact that 70% to the nature of his more than evident standing for some time on one leg calligraphy and tea ceremonies side difficult to ascertain how much lighting. The show lasted nearly of our bus was not). After some anger and re-assured him that we whilst the other was held adroitly by side to dynamic martial displays of the place was new or old. Luce two hours and featured hundreds 20 minutes or so it got the better meant no such disrespect but merely above their heads to the dynamic, whilst in the distance still more Condamine and I wondered up to on monks, musicians and female of me and I began to groan rather suggested that perhaps it may be fast flashing sabre-fights. Some were battalions exercised their impressive the back of the temples to an area dancers performing in a manner that loudly in desperation. Fortunately, better for the commentator to focus constantly lifting heavy weights up drills. In all I believe 50,000 monks which was brand new, although very would delight the campest Broadway or otherwise, this was noted by our her attention on the handful of native and down with one arm, others were were in attendance. much in the style of the original. producer. The spectacle was truly Chinese guide who enquired as Chinese speakers at the front of the fighting with spears, and armies Further away still we saw even more fantastic with the stunning setting to the nature of my cries. I, and a bus and allow those of us ignorant were practising sabre drills whilst Beyond the area of demonstrations building being carried out and in a and choreography being used in number of others, began to voice of her words to attain some degree others posed statically for many, we reached the grounds of the quite corner found the remains of meticulous harmony. Whether its our inner feelings at being subjected of peace. He was sympathetic to our many minutes. Children were dressed main temple buildings. Most were a number of original stone pieces something we expect to see from to this cacophony of noise which plight and became increasing friendly as monkeys, rabbits and tigers to noticeably well constructed, in good which may, or may not, be reused in a holy Buddhist order is entirely was unintelligible to the majority towards us thereafter. entertain the youngsters whilst condition, clean and well decorated. the reconstruction. Before the show Young girls with swords the batallions are drilling In meditation

China 2006 8 Ronnie Robinson 9 Resting shoes Ronnie at a temple door A working weapon

Summary

Having first visited China in the early 90’s, and returning fairly regularly at 3 – 4 year intervals, I’m hugely impressed with the incredible rate of development. More and more industrial, grimy cities are being cleaned up whilst modern, and in the main, tastefully creative new buildings of incredible proportion are springing Some hours later we made our Our visit to the Shaolin Temple up everywhere. China has wholeheartedly embraced way towards the exit to meet the was certainly interesting but consumerism and look set busses at our pre-arranged time. personally I would be happier to to lead the world in many Sculpture at the entrance Here were around 20 or so shops return in quieter times, slowly aspects in a few years. It the batallions are drilling selling various related wares wonder around, ask questions, would be a great shame to to the temple. Buddhist beads, buy serious reading matter and lose its traditional jewels such as the martial arts of training swords and wooden ones get a better sense of what it is taiji, shaolin and qigong for children, incense, silk suits, they actually teach in terms of systems but it seems already coins, banners, videos, CDs, cold physical, mental and spiritual too late. New forms of a drinks, snacks and various charts work. shorter, standardised nature have been created and and books. Unfortunately I found many of the old, valuable it impossible to find any seriously skills will surely be allowed informative literature in English to disappear in favour of which I, and I’m sure many others packaging for the fast-paced would have been more than happy modern world. Whilst my visits to the Chen Village to purchase. and Shaolin Temple were greatly interesting I’m

Dring Flowers afraid I learned nothing new, despite the fact I wanted to. China holds many precious treasures from the past which can continue to enrich Standing by the wall and enhance our future My thanks to Faye Li Yip for organising the trip and for development which, I’m ensuring all our needs were met in a very caring and afraid will be lost and the pleasant manner. worthy lessons which can Thanks too to Dan Docherty for his knowledge, humour and be gained will fail to assist willingness to act as our tour guide for the Chen Village visit. our increasingly endangered world. In 2007 Chiron Tai Chi in conjuction with Faye Li Yip will be arranging a trip to Beijing, Chen Village, Shaolin Temple, Xian (Terracotta Warriors) and Wudang Mountain. Ronnie Robinson 2006 Full details can be had by emailing [email protected]

China 2006 Ronnie Robinson 10 11 China 2006