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976 Index A Albertina (Vienna), 941 partying, 73–77 AAA (American Automobile Alcázar (Seville), 856 performing arts, 77 Association), 46 Aldstadt (Munich), 632 pharmacies, 65 AB (Ancienne Belgique; Al Faia (Lisbon), 530 picnic fare and spots, 73 Brussels), 184 The Alfama (Lisbon), 521, 534 playing outside, 81–82 Abbey Theatre (Dublin), 292 Alfi’s Goldener Spiegel post offices, 65 The Abbotsford (Edinburgh), (Vienna), 937 recommended books, 62–64 349 Alhucena (Seville), 852 Red-Light District, 76 Above and Beyond Tours, 49 Alibi (Rome), 816 restrooms, 65 Accademia (Florence), 385–386 Allatkert (Zoo; Budapest), 215 safety, 65 Accademia (Venice), 916–917 Alley (Galway), 312 shopping, 82–85 Accademia Foscarini Snack Bar All-Ireland Hurling and Gaelic sightseeing, 77–81 (Venice), 918 Football Finals (Dublin), 294 sleeping, 66–71 Access-Able Travel Source, 48 Alsergrund (Vienna), 926–927 smoking coffee houses, 63 Accessible Journeys, 48 Alte Nationalgalerie (Berlin), starting a conversation with Accommodations, 12, 23 167 a local, 62 booking online, 27 Alte Pinakothek (Munich), 648 taxis, 59 tips on, 26–29 Altes Residenztheater (Munich), telephone, 66 websites, 52 646–647 tipping, 66 ACEA–Centrale Montemartini Altstadt (Old Town), Salzburg, tourist offices, 61 (Rome), 828 947 traveling to, 56–58 The Acropolis (Athens), 114 Amalfi, 679–682 12 hours in, 80 Acropolis Archaeological The Amalfi Coast, 679–688 university scene, 78 Museum (Athens), 115 Amalienborg Slot (Amalienborg walking, 60–61 Action Bar (Budapest), 209 Castle; Copenhagen), 237–238 websites, 62 Ad Hoc (London), 578 American Automobile for women, 76 Adolfo Domínguez (Barcelona), Association (AAA), 46 Amsterdam Pride, 79 142 American Express Amsterdam Roots Festival, 79 Adventure Café (Bath), 582 Brussels, 178 AmsterUit Buro (AUB) INDEX African-American travelers, 50 Madrid, 592 Ticketshop (Amsterdam), 74 After Line (Milan), 623 traveler’s checks, 24 Ancient Akrotiri (Santorini), 451 Agência 117 (Lisbon), 538 American Foundation for the Ancient Thira (Santorini), 451 AghaRTA (Prague), 754 Blind, 49 Andrews Lane Theatre (Dublin), The Agora (Athens), 115–116 Amnesia (Ibiza), 475 292 Ägyptisches Museum (Berlin), Amsterdam, 54–85 Anema e Core (Capri), 676 166 accommodations, 55–56 Angel (Budapest), 209 Aire de Sevilla—Baños Arabes best of, 55–56 Ann Demeulemeester (Seville), 856–857 bicycling, 60, 78 (Antwerp), 100 Airfares, 12, 38, 39 brown cafes and tasting Anne Frankhuis (Anne Frank Airlines, 36–37, 46–47, 970–973 houses, 74 House; Amsterdam), 79 bankrupt, 39 cellphones, 64 Annual Tattoo Expo (Athens), booking online, 38–39 consulates, 64 114 Air Travel Advisory Bureau, 47 culture tips, 63 Antiques Market (Antwerp), 100 Akkusativ, 51 drugs and drinking, 63, 65 Antre Bloc (Paris), 727 AKM (Istanbul), 508 eating, 71–73 Antwerp, 86–100 Akmerkez Shopping Center emergencies, 64 best of, 87 (Istanbul), 513 COPYRIGHTEDfestivals, 78–79 MATERIALcellphone providers, 90 Akt.Records (Budapest), 219 free activities, 78 culture tips, 89–90 A la Mort Subite (Brussels), getting around, 58–60 currency, 90 183–184 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 65 drugs and alcohol, 94 Albergue de Juventud Kabul laundry, 65 eating, 93–94 (Barcelona), 4 luggage storage, 65 eats, 87 Albert Cuyp Market movies, 64 emergencies, 90 (Amsterdam), 84 museums, 79–81 festivals, 97 Albert Heijn (Amsterdam), 73 neighborhoods, 61 gay clubs, 95 INDEX 977 Index emergencies, 125 festivals, 137 getting around, 121 hanging out, 142 Internet access, 123 laundry, 125 luggage storage, 125 neighborhoods, 121–122 partying, 133–136 best of, 119 cafes and tearooms, 132–133 currency, 124–125 drugs and drinking, 124 eating, 131–133 dat Caddesi (Istanbul), 495 g (Berlin), 170 (Inter-laken), 4 430–431 122 with special travel needs, 48–49 B Babbity Bowster (Glasgow), 432 Babylon (Bath), 582 Bacaro Jazz (Venice), 903 Ba Bagni Nettuno (Capri), 678 Bagni Tiberio (Capri), 678 Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Bairro Alto (Lisbon), 521 Baixa (Lisbon), 521 Balmer’s Herberge Bamboo (Glasgow), 431 Ba Mizu (Dublin), 288 Banana Brothers (Glasgow), Banana Cabaret (London), 570 Bancogiro (Venice), 903 Bang Bang (Barcelona), 134 Banje (Dubrovnik), 331 The Bank (Dublin), 288 Bar Bar (Rome), 813–814 The Barbican (London), 568 Barcelona, 118–143 Ayasofya (Istanbul), 509 Ayios Sostis (Mykonos), 464 Attanasio (Naples), 6 Attanasio (Naples), Auditorium (Rome), 818 290 The Auld Dubliner (Dublin), Au Printemps (Paris), 727 Automático Bar (Madrid), 6 Avalanche (Glasgow), 439 The Aventine (Rome), 832 Avinguda Diagonal (Barcelona), Avis Rent a Car, for customers movies, 105 taxis, 103 tipping, 107 tourist offices, 104 traveling to, 102–103 12 hours in, 105 websites, 104 getting around, 103–104 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 106 laundry, 106 luggage storage, 106 neighborhoods, 104 partying, 112–113 performing arts, 113 pharmacies, 106 playing outside, 117 post offices, 106 recommended books and restrooms, 107 safety, 107 shopping, 117 sightseeing, 114 sleeping, 107–110 best of, 102 culture tips, 104–105 currency, 106 drugs and drinking, 104–105 eating, 111–112 embassies and consulates, 106 emergencies, 106 festivals, 114 free activities, 115 114 Eleftherios Venizelos, 102 machines), 23 Climbing (Istanbul), 512 530 (Amsterdam), 83 Athens), 114 Athens and Epidaurus Festival, Athens International Airport A-38 (Budapest), 2, 208 ATMs (automated teller Atoll, 51 Atölye Mountaineering & Atomik Café (Munich), 2, 645 Atomium (Brussels), 187 A Tasca Tequila Bar (Lisbon), 510 Atatürk Museum (Istanbul), Athenaeum Boekhandel B.V. Athena Nike (Athena of Victory; Athens, 101–117 Astra Apartments (Santorini), 5 Astra Apartments Astra Bar (Ios), 458 Asturias (Madrid), 590 a local, 89 starting a conversation with telephone tips, 91 tipping, 91 tourist information, 89 traveling to, 87–88 12 hours in, 99 university scene, 98 websites, 89 pharmacies, 90 playing outside, 99 post office, 90 red-light district, 96 restrooms, 90 safety, 90 shopping, 99–100 sightseeing, 97–99 sleeping, 91–93 getting around, 88 getting around, Internet access, 90 laundry, 90 luggage storage, 90 orientation, 88–89 partying, 94 performing arts, 96–97 (Mykonos), 464 Stockholm), 878–879 (Seville), 856 Museum (Dubrovnik), 330 688 945 827 753–754 Area Sacra (Rome), 822 Arsenale (Venice), 917 Art Café (Rome), 816 Art Deco Galerie (Prague), 765 Art galleries, Paris, 717 Arc de Triomphe (Paris), 720 Archaeological Museum Archa Theater (Prague), 756 The Archipelago (near Archivo General de Indias Aquarium and Maritime Aquarius (Dubrovnik), 332 The Aragonese Castle of Ischia, Aragon House (London), 566 Ara Pacis (Rome), 823 Arcadia Opera Shop (Vienna), Antwerp Tourist Office, 89 Apartment rentals, 27 Apollo Belvedere (the Vatican), Apostasy (Galway), 313, 314 Appian Way (Rome), 821–822 Aqua Club 2000 (Prague), 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 977 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 978

978 Index Barcelona (Cont.) Bayswater (London), 552 free activities, 165 playing outside, 141 Bazaar P&J-P.Truhlár (Prague), gay nightlife, 163 post offices, 125 766 getting around, 147 recommended books and Beach Bar 23 (Barcelona), 135 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 151 movies, 124 Beaches, 10 laundry, 151 restrooms, 125 Barcelona, 141 luggage storage, 151 safety, 125 Cannes, 415 neighborhoods, 148–149 shopping, 142–143 Capri, 678–679 partying, 161–163 sightseeing, 136–141 Copenhagen, 241 playing outside, 170 sleeping, 126–131 Dublin, 301 post offices, 151–152 starting a conversation with Dubrovnik, 331–332 recommended books, movies, a local, 120 Galway, 317 and music, 150 telephone tips, 125–126 Hvar, 257 restrooms, 152 tipping, 126 Ibiza, 477 safety, 152 tourist offices, 123 Lisbon, 536–537 shopping, 170–171 traveling to, 119–121 Monaco, 416 sightseeing, 165–170 12 hours in, 136 Mykonos, 464 sleeping, 152–159 websites, 124 Nice, 406 starting a conversation with Barcelona (Copenhagen), St-Tropez, 409–410 a local, 146 235–236 Santorini, 452 telephone tips, 152 Barcelona Card, 122 Split, 254 tipping, 152 Bar del Fico (Rome), 814 Venice, 919 tourist offices, 149 Bar Directo (Amalfi), 682 Zurich, 966 traveling to, 145–147 Barfly (Glasgow), 433 Beaufort House (London), 566 12 hours in, 169 Barfüsser (Zurich), 962–963 Beaujoulais Nouveau (Paris), university scene, 167 Bargello (Florence), 386 720 websites, 149 Bar Jardí (Barcelona), 132 Beckett’s Irish Bar (Budapest), Berliner Ensemble (Berlin), Barmacy (Ios), 458 208 163–164 Bar Magenta (Milan), 622 The Beehive (Rome), 4 Berlin-Mitte, 149 INDEX Barockmuseum (Vienna), 940 Beer Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra Bar Quisi (Capri), 675 Belgian, 181 (Philharmonisches Barri Gòtic (Barcelona), 122 Prague, 751 Orchester), 164 Barrowland Ballroom Beer Saloon (Berlin), 161 Berlin Wall, 168 (Glasgow), 433 Before (Nice), 404 Berlin Zoo/Aquarium, 165 Bars and pubs, best, 2–3 Belém (Lisbon), 521 Bermuda Dreieck (Vienna), 936 Bar 10 (Glasgow), 431 Belgravia (London), 551 Berns (Stockholm), 872 Bar Tiberio (Capri), 675 Bellagio, 626 Bertramka (W. A. Mozart Bartolucci (Florence), 390 Bell Tower (Venice), 915 Museum; Prague), 762 Bar Zuka (Ibiza), 473 Beltane (Edinburgh), 351 Be@ikta@, 495 Basilica da Estrela (Lisbon), 534 Belvedere Palace (Vienna), Bestiario (Seville), 851–852 Basilica di San Marco (Venice), 939–940 Betsy Palmer (Amsterdam), 83 914 Belvedere Torso (the Vatican), Beulé Gate (Athens), 114 Basilica di Sant’Antonio 827 Beyoglu (Istanbul), 495 (Padua), 920 Benelux Tourrail pass, 174 Biblioteca Laurenziana Basilique du Sacre-Coeur de Berlin, 144–171 (Florence), 384 Montmartre (Paris), 721 bars, 161–162 BiddingForTravel, 39 Bastille Day (Paris), 719 best of, 145 Biennale d’Arte (Venice), 911 Bateau Concorde Atlantique cabaret, 164–165 Bierhalle Wolf (Zurich), 962, (Paris), 715 cellphones, 150 965 Bath, 581–584 culture tips, 149–150 Biffi (Milan), 628 Baths of Caracalla (Rome), 819, currency, 151 Big Ben Bookshop (Prague), 757 821 eating, 159–161 Big Big World Festival Batofar (Paris), 715 embassies, 151 (Glasgow), 434 Battistero (Baptistery), emergencies, 151 Big Brother Records (Dublin), Florence, 382 festivals, 165 304 Bauhaus (Seville), 852 on foot, 148 Big Mama (Rome), 815 INDEX 979 Index 173–175 and movies, 178 a local, 175 bathhouses, 218 beer, 208, 209 best of, 194–195 cellphone providers, 200 emergencies, 179 festivals, 186–187 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 179 laundry, 179 luggage storage, 179 neighborhoods, 175 partying, 183 playing outside, 189–190 post offices, 179 recommended books, music, restrooms, 179 safety, 179 shopping, 190 sightseeing, 186–189 sleeping, 180–181 starting a conversation with tipping, 180 tourist offices, 175, 178 12 hours in, 188 university scene, 189 websites, 178 beer, 181 best of, 173 cafes and tearooms, 183 cellphone providers, 178 culture tips, 178 currency, 178 eating, 181–183 embassies, 178–179 (Budapest), 211 Ballet Festival (Budapest), 211 Hall; Budapest), 216 439 573 Brixton Academy (London), 567 Brixton Academy Bruges, 191–193 432 Brunswick Cellar (Glasgow), Brussels, 172–193 “Budafest” Summer Opera and Budai Vigadó (Buda Concert Budapest, 194–220 Brussels Jazz Marathon, 187 Brutus (Amsterdam), 83 Bruxelles (Dublin), 288 BT2 (Dublin), 304 Buchanan Galleries (Glasgow), Buckingham Palace (London), Buda Castle Labyrinth and Modern Art 5 ), 261 c kovi (Florence), 387 s Birth of Venus Santorini, 452 Zurich, 966 (London), 572 580 566 573–574 945 574 Gallery (Bra 965 Primavera 451–452 (Brandenburg Gate; Berlin), 168–169 Archaeology Museum, 516 390–391 347–348 (Prague), 764–765 Brittany Ferries, 37 Brazen Head (Dublin), 290 Brel (Glasgow), 431–432 The Brick Lane Festival Brick Lane Market (London), The Bricklayers Arms (London), Bridge of Sighs (Brisbane), 913 Britart Showroom (London), 571 British Airways, 46 British Airways London Eye, The British Bookshop (Vienna), British Library (London), 574 The British Museum (London), Bray Head, 302 Boss (Seville), 852 Botanic Gardens, Glasgow, 437 Botanischer Garten (Berlin), 170 Botanischer Garten (Zurich), Botticelli’s Boudisque (Amsterdam), 83 Boujis (London), 565–566 Boutari Winery (Santorini), Brandenburger Tor Branislav-De Bocca della Verità (Rome), 823 Bodrum, 514–516 Bodrum Underwater Bois de Boulogne (Paris), 725 329 Bokar Fortress (Dubrovnik), Bologna (city), 392–393 Bologna (shop; Florence), Bongo Club (Edinburgh), Bontonland Megastore Book market (Amsterdam), 84 The Book of Kells (Dublin), 295 Boom Chicago (Amsterdam), 75 Bora Bora (Ibiza), 473 Boboli Gardens (Florence), 389 Boboli Gardens (Florence), Como, 627 the Danube, 944 Dublin, 303 Lake Thun, 490 Paris, 718 St-Tropez, 407 Galway, 317 Munich, 651–652 Prague, 764 Rome, 833 Zurich, 966 Capri, 678 Munich, 651 Reykjavík, 772 Rome, 791, 832–833 Seville, 840, 858 Stockholm, 863 Vienna, 925, 943 Zurich, 953 Copenhagen, 224–225, 241 Dublin, 271, 301 Edinburgh, 336 Florence, 359 Galway, 317 Glasgow, 419 Ibiza, 467 Lisbon, 537 Madrid, 588 Amsterdam, 60, 78 Antwerp, 88, 99 Barcelona, 121, 141 Berlin, 147–148, 170 Brussels, 189 677 (Budapest), 209 Boat rides, 10 Boat tours Bloomsbury (London), 553–554 Bloomsday (Dublin), 294 Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), The Blue Lagoon (Iceland), 786 Blue Mosque (Istanbul), 509 Blue Note (Galway), 312–313 The Boater (Bath), 582 Boating (boat rentals) Bird Market (Antwerp), 100 Bird-watching, Istanbul, 512 Bisevo, 258 Blackberry Fair (Dublin), 305 Black Bo’s (Edinburgh), 348 Black Travel Online, 50 Bloemenmarkt (Amsterdam), 84 Blogs and travelogues, 53 Birdland Restaurant and Bar Bikers Caffe (Dubrovnik), 328 Bikers Caffe (Dubrovnik), Biking 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 979 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 980

980 Index Budapest (Cont.) Cacilhas (Lisbon), 521 Capitoline Museums (Rome), coffee houses, 210 Cádiz, 860 828 culture tips, 199–200 Café Chris (Amsterdam), 74 Capocaccia (Florence), 376 currency, 200 Café Cozy (Reykjavík), 780 Cappella dei Principi eating, 206–207 Café d’Anvers (Antwerp), 2, 94 (Florence), 383 embassies, 201 Café del Rio (Budapest), 208 Cappelle Medicee (Florence), emergencies, 201 Café du Journal (Galway), 314 383 festivals, 210–211 Café en Seine (Dublin), 288 Capri, 671–679 free and easy activities, 211 Café Konvikt (Prague), 761 Carabela (Vienna), 936 gay nightlife, 209 Café Latte (Seville), 7 Caravaggio, 296, 387, 388, 669, getting to and around, Café Local (Antwerp), 95 824, 827, 829, 830 195–198 Café Mambo (Ibiza), 474–475 Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice), 917 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 201 Cafe Royal Circle Bar The Carlsberg Visitors Center laundry, 201 (Edinburgh), 349 (Copenhagen), 240 luggage storage, 201 Café Sacher (Vienna), 7 Carnaby Street (London), 580 neighborhoods, 198–199 Café Slavia (Prague), 6, 749 Carnevale (Venice), 910 partying, 208 Café t’Veurleste (Antwerp), 95 Carnival, 1 performing arts, 210–211, Caffè Florian (Venice), 902, Athens, 114 216–217 910, 913 Copenhagen, 237 playing outside, 217 Cagaloglu Hamami (Istanbul), Croatia, 245 recommended books, movies, 513 Carpe Diem Cocktail Bar/ and music, 200 Cala Xarraca Beach (Ibiza), 477 Nightclub (Hvar), 2, 256–257 restrooms, 201 Caledonia Books (Glasgow), 439 Car rentals, 45–46 road trips from, 219 Camaldoli Park (Naples), 671 Carrer Aragó (Barcelona), 140 safety, 201 Camden (London), 556 Car travel, 38, 44–45 shopping, 218–220 Camden Arts Centre (London), Caryatids (Athens), 114 sightseeing, 210–216 571 C.A.S.A. (Dublin), 304 sleeping, 202–206 Camden Market (London), 580 Casablanca Café (Milan), 623 starting a conversation with Camera Obscura (Edinburgh), Casa de Campo (Madrid), 608 INDEX a local, 196 352–353 Casa de la Memoria de tipping, 201 Çamlica (Istanbul), 495 Al-Andalus (Seville), 854 tourist offices, 199 Campania, best of, 655–656 Casa Del Libro (Madrid), 609 12 hours in, 215 Campania Artecard, 667 Casa Milà (La Pedrera; university scene, 216 Campanile (Venice), 915 Barcelona), 138, 140 websites, 199 Campidoglio (Rome), 832 Casanova (Venice), 906 Budapest Art Weeks, 211 Camping, St-Tropez, 408–409 Casa Patas (Madrid), 606 Budapest Spring Festival, 210 Camp Nou (Barcelona), 136 Cash, 22–23 Budda Bar (Glasgow), 432 Campo de’ Fiori (Rome), 813 Casino Barrière de Cannes Bulldog (Amsterdam), 63 Campo di Marte (Florence), 389 Croisette (Cannes), 414 Bull Dog (Ios), 458 Campo San Polo (Venice), 919 Casino Ruhl (Nice), 405 Bulldog Palace (Amsterdam), 63 Campo Santa Margherita Casinos Bullfighting (Venice), 911–912, 919, 921 Cannes, 414 Lisbon, 537 Campo San Vio (Venice), 919 Monte-Carlo, 416 Madrid, 587 Canal Bike (Amsterdam), 82 Nice, 405 Seville, 859 Canal Bus (Amsterdam), 59–60 Vienna, 936–937 Bundestag (Reichstag; Berlin), Canal Café Theater (London), Casino Vienna, 936–937 169–170 570 Casselli (Vienna), 945 Burns Night (Edinburgh), 351 Canal Grande (Venice), 912 Castel dell’Ovo (Naples), The Burrell (Glasgow), 435 Candela (Madrid), 605 667 Busker Brownes (Galway), 313 The Candy Bar (London), 567 Castello Nuovo (Naples), Bus travel, 38, 47 Cannaregio (Venice), 887 667 Cannes, 410–415 Castello Sforzesco (Milan), 624 Can Pou Bar (Ibiza), 474 Castelo de Sao Jorge (Lisbon), C Caparica, 536–537 534 Ca’Bianca Club (Milan), 623 Capitoline (Rome), 832 Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome), Cabiria Cafe (Florence), 385 Capitoline Hill (Rome), 820 823–824 INDEX 981 Index 77, 78 (Amsterdam), 83 965 (Venice), 918 (Glasgow), 433 Amsterdam), 74 (Giverny), 731 379–380 d’Antibes), 51 (Paris), 721 Concertgebouw (Amsterdam), Condomerie Het Gulden Vlies Condoms, 31, 32 Confiserie Sprüngli (Zurich), Confraternity of St. Roch Conservation International, 51 City Hall (Barcelona), 134 City Halls and Old Fruitmarket City Park (Budapest), 217 City Theatre (Reykjavík), 781 City Wall, 329 CJP (Cultural Youth Pass; Claddagh Records (Dublin), 304 Claude Monet Foundation Clerkenwell (London), 554–555 Clock Tower (Dubrovnik), 329 Clock Tower (Venice), 916 Club 14 (Istanbul), 507 Club Industria (Antwerp), 95 Club Metro (Interlaken), 486 Club Nautica (Hvar), 257 Club Purple (Istanbul), 507 Club Stella (Prague), 754 Club Vega (Istanbul), 507–508 Coach travel, 38, 47 The Cobblestone (Dublin), 290 Coccodrillo (Antwerp), 100 Cockney, 548 Coin (Florence), 391 Coin (Rome), 834 Colete Encarnado (Lisbon), 534 Colosseum (Rome), 820 Comedy Café (London), 570 Comedy Store (London), 570 Come on Eileen (Paris), 728 Como (city), 626 Como, Lake, 626–627 Circus Maximus (Rome), 821 Citadella (Budapest), 212 Citadium (Paris), 728 The City (London), 554 City codes, 34–35 C.I.A (Centre International Ciánkáli (Budapest), 219 Cimetière du Père-Lachaise Cinema Astro (Florence), ), 261 c (Rome), 814 873 (Dublin), 295 238–239 226 (Munich), 647 (Berlin), 165 (Bra 166 571–572 295 651 (Naples), 668 (Istanbul), 513 (London), 573, 575 (Naples), 668 (Florence), 383 (Sorrento), 684 760 (Galway), 318 676 (Dubrovnik Cathedral), 329 esky Krumlov, 766–769 esky Krumlov Château, 767 Chokladkoppen (Stockholm), Christ Church Cathedral Christiania (Copenhagen), Christianshavn (Copenhagen), Christopher Street Day Christopher Street Day Parade Chueca (Madrid), 589–590 Church of the Annunciation Charlie Rocket’s (Bruges), 4 Charlottenburg Palace (Berlin), Charter flights, 46 Chateau (Prague), 750 Chelsea (London), 551 Chelsea Flower Show (London), Chemical Tattoo (Madrid), 609 Chester Beatty Library (Dublin), Chez Wayne’s (Nice), 404 Chiado (Lisbon), 521 Chiaia Beach (Forio), 688 Chinesischer Turm (Munich), Chioschetto Ponte Milvio C C Cevahir Shopping Center Changing of the Guard Chapel of San Gennaro Chapel of the Princes Chaplin’s Pub/The English Inn Charles Bridge (Prague), 759, Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop Certosa di San Giacomo (Capri), Certosa di San Certosa-Museo di San Martino Church of the Assumption (Istanbul), i Hamam @ ula), 264 c 627 (Edinburgh), 351 434 530 Gudule (Brussels), 187 (Kor (Rome), 9, 822–823 (Naples), 668 (Madrid), 609 (Lisbon), 532 dei Turchini (Naples), 666 Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB), 139 Art (Glasgow), 435 (C.I.A), 51 142 Déssinée (Brussels), 188 513 (Brussels), 188 Prevention, 30 C.C. Bloom’s (Edinburgh), 348 Ceilidh Culture Festival Cellphones, 35–36 Celtic Connections (Glasgow), Celtic Park (Glasgow), 438 Çemberlita Catedral (Seville), 856 Catedral Club (Seville), 858 Catedral de Barcelona, 138 et Cathédrale des Saints Michel Cathedral of St. Marco Cavalcalario Club (Bellagio), Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples), 668 Castel Sant’Elmo Catacombes de Paris, 720–721 Catacombs of San Callisto Catacombs of San Gennaro Catacumbas Jazz Bar (Lisbon), Centro Cultural de Belém Centro di Musica Antica Pieta Centro Storico (Rome), 792 The Centre for Contemporary Centre International d’Antibes Centre Pompidou (Paris), 723 Centro Comercial Barceló Centrale Lounge (Venice), 903 Central Park (Florence), 378 Central Park (Galway), 312 Central Station (London), 568 Central Wine Bar (Bath), 582 Centre Belge de la Bande Centre de Cultura Center for Comic Strip Art Centers for Disease Control and Centraal Station (Amsterdam), 57 Central (Athens), 112 Central Bookstore (Barcelona), 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 981 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 982

982 Index Consolidators, 39 Corso Buenos Aires (Milan), 628 Dante Alighieri language Constantine, colossal statue of Coses de Casa (Barcelona), 142 school, 51 (Rome), 829 Country codes, 34–35 Danube River, cruising, 944 Constantine Column (Istanbul), The Courtauld Institute Data (Florence), 391 509 (London), 571 Davy Byrnes (Dublin), 289 Contemporary Music Weeks The Court Bar (Glasgow), 432 Days of European Film (Budapest), 211 Covent Garden (London), 554 (Prague), 759 Conversion charts, 974–975 Cow’s Lane Market (Dublin), DC-10 (Ibiza), 475 Cooking schools, 50 305 De Dampkring (Amsterdam), 63 Copacabana Beach (Dubrovnik), Cox (Paris), 716 De Drie Fleschjes (Amsterdam), 331–332 Coxx Club (Budapest), 209 74 Copenhagen, 221–243 The Crane (Galway City), 4, 314 De Duivel (Amsterdam), 75 best of, 222–223 Crash (Munich), 644 Delos, 463–464 culture tips, 226–227 Crawdaddy (Dublin), 290 De Muze (Antwerp), 96 currency, 227 Crazy Larry’s (London), 566 Den Lille Havfrue (The Little discount cards, 224 Credit cards, 24 Mermaid) Statue eating, 233–235 Cricket, London, 578 (Copenhagen), 239 embassies, 227 Crisco (Florence), 379 De Pijp (Amsterdam), 61 emergencies, 228 Croatian National Theater Der Weinkeller (Berlin), 171 famous Danes, 222 (Split), 251 De Sade (Milan), 623 festivals, 237 Crypt of the Capuchin Monks DeSingel (Antwerp), 97 free and easy activities, 238 (Rome), 830 Det Kongelige Teater gardens and parks, 241 Cuba (Galway), 312 (Copenhagen), 236 getting to and around, Cube (Glasgow), 432 Deurne Airport (Antwerp), 87 223–224 Cultural differences, 12–13 Deutsche Guggenheim (Berlin), Internet/Wi-Fi access, 228 Cultural Information Desk 166 laundry, 228 (Antwerp), 97 Deutsches Museum (Munich), luggage storage, 228 Cumhuriyet Bayrami (Republic 648 neighborhoods, 225–226 Day; Istanbul), 508–509 Deutsche Staatsoper (Berlin), INDEX partying, 235–236 Cumpa’ Cosimo (Ravello), 686 164 performing arts, 236 Curia (Rome), 821 Devil’s Forest (Venice), 903 post offices, 228 Curlers Bar (Glasgow), 432 De Windroos (Antwerp), 99 recommended books, movies, Curling, Glasgow, 438 Diamondland (Antwerp), 98 and music, 227 Currency and currency Die Badeanstalt (Munich), 645 restrooms, 228 exchange, 21–22 Diesel Lisboa (Lisbon), 538 road trip from, 242–243 Customs regulations, 20–21 Die Stachelschweine (Berlin), safety, 228 Cuvillies Theater (Munich), 164 shopping, 242 646–647 Die Wiesse (Salzburg), 948 sightseeing, 237–241 Cycling. See Biking Dig a Little Deeper (Berlin), 171 sleeping, 229–233 Cyclorent (Antwerp), 99 Dining, 23 starting a conversation with Czech Philharmonic Orchestra best cheap, 5–7 a local, 227 at Rudolfinum (Prague), 756 tips on, 28 telephone tips, 228 Diocletian’s Palace (Split), 246, tipping, 228 251–253 tourist offices, 226 D Disabilities, travelers with, 12 hours in, 240 Dachau Concentration Camp, 48–49 university scene, 240 653 Disco 7 (Cannes), 414 websites, 226 Dalkey Hill, 302 Disco Gaudi (Korcula), 264 Copenhagen International Film The Dalmatian Coast, 244–265 Discotheque (Barcelona), 134 Festival, 237 best of, 244 Disfunzioni Musicali (Rome), Copenhagen Jazz Festival, 237 festivals, 245–246 834–835 Copenhagen JazzHouse, 236 D’Alt Villa (Ibiza), 468 Dissolvenze (Florence), 380 Copper Face Jacks (Dublin), 288 Damascus (Dublin), 304 Ditta G. Poggi (Rome), 835 Cornetto Free Music Festival Dance clubs. See “Partying” Dive Center Hvar, 258 (Rome), 818 under specific cities Diversions Temple Bar (Dublin), Corniche (Edinburgh), 354 294 INDEX 983 Index a local, 322 Fiore), 360, 382–383 safety, 324 shopping, 332 sightseeing, 328–331 sleeping, 324–326 starting a conversation with tipping, 324 tourist office, 322 12 hours in, 331 best of, 334–335 cellphones, 339 culture tips, 338 currency, 339 eating, 344–346 embassies, 339 emergencies, 339 Amalfi, 682 Florence (Santa Maria del Milan, 625 Naples, 668 Festival, 328 328 566 (Florence), 386 (Dubrovnik), 332 220 the Assumption), 329 E.D. (Paris), 707 Edinburgh, 333–354 Dubrovnik Summer Festival, Duchamp (Venice), 903 The Duke of Clarence (London), Dulcenea (Istanbul), 506 Duomo Duomo Works Museum Duplex (Prague), 752 Dynamic Earth (Edinburgh), 352 E Eager Beaver (Dublin), 297, 304 Eagle Bar (Vienna), 937 Eamonn Doran’s (Dublin), 290 Earl’s Court (London), 552 East (Stockholm), 873 The East End (London), 555 Eastwest Beach Club EasyJet, 46 Eats, best cheap, 5–6 Ecotourism, 50–51 Ecotravel.com, 51 Ecseri Flea Market (Budapest), Dubrovnik Cathedral (Church of Dubrovnik Cathedral (Church Dubrovnik International Film 276 268–271 297 and music, 273–274 276, 291 and music, 323 shopping, 303–305 sightseeing, 293–300 sleeping, 276–280 taxis, 270 telephone, 275 tipping, 276 tourist offices, 272–273 12 hours in, 294 websites, 273 youth information services, hanging out with students, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 275 laundry, 275 luggage, 275 music bars and clubs, 290 neighborhoods, 271–272 organized tours, 299–300 partying, 285–292 performing arts, 292–293 pharmacies, 275 playing outside, 300–303 post offices, 275 pubs, 289–290, 300 recommended books, movies, gay and lesbian travelers, gay and lesbian getting to and around, road trips from, 332 best of, 320 culture tips, 322–323 eating, 326–327 embassies, 323–324 emergencies, 324 festivals, 328 getting to and around, 321 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 324 luggage storage, 324 neighborhoods, 321–322 partying, 327–328 performing arts, 328 post offices, 324 recommended books, movies, restrooms, 324 332 Dubrovnik, 320–332 Dublin Castle, 295 Dublin Experience, 295 Dublin Film Festival, 294 Dublin Theatre Festival, 294 Dublin Writers Museum, 297 Dubrovacka kuca (Dubrovnik), ), c ), 262 c ula), 264 c 275 297 currency, 274–275 eating, 281–285 embassies and consulates, emergencies, 275 festivals, 293–294 bars and wine bars, 288–289, best of, 267–268 cellphones, 274 comedy clubs, 292 culture tips, 273 Hvar, 258 Ibiza, 478 Mykonos, 464 Nice, 406 Split, 254 289 912, 919 214 568–569 434 261 Museum (Dubrovnik), 330–331 (Vienna), 940 (Galway), 315 (Glasgow), 439 Dom (Salzburg Cathedral), 950 Dôme Bar (Ibiza), 477 Dominican Monastery (Bra Djurgården (Stockholm), 877 Docklands (London), 555 Dock’s (Lisbon), 531 Dogana da Mar (Venice), 907, Doge’s Palace (Venice), 912–913 Dohány Synagogue (Budapest), Doheny and Nesbitt (Dublin), Diving Diwali (London), 572 Dos Locos (Kor Dovas (Stockholm), 872 Dragon’s Cave (Bra Dom Museum (Salzburg), 950 Donmar Warehouse (London), Don Quijote, 51 Doors Open Days (Glasgow), Dorsoduro (Venice), 887, 912 Dos de Mayo (Madrid), 606 Dominican Monastery and Domkirche St. Stephan Dublin, 266–305 Dr. Jives, a vintage boutique Drottingholm (Stockholm), 878 Drug laws, 30 Drugs, Amsterdam, 63, 65 Druid Theatre Company 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 983 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 984

984 Index Edinburgh (Cont.) Elevador de Santa Justa Fado, 532 festivals, 351 (Lisbon), 533 Fallers of Galway, 319 gay bars, 349 El Mercadillo (Barcelona), 142 Fame Music (Amsterdam), 83 getting to and around, El Prat de Llobregat Airport Fasching (Munich), 647 335–337 (Barcelona), 119–120 Fasching (Vienna), 939 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 340 El Rastro (Madrid), 609 Fashion Gallery (Prague), 765 laundry, 340 El Raval (Barcelona), 122 Fashion Week (Paris), 719 luggage storage, 340 El Retiro (Madrid), 608–609 Fast Flying Ferries neighborhoods, 337 Els Quatre Gats (Barcelona), (Amsterdam), 85 partying, 346–349 132–133 Fatih (Istanbul), 494–495 pharmacy, 340 El Tamboril (Seville), 4, 854 Fat Tire Bike Tour (Berlin), 170 post offices, 340 ELTExpress, 39 Fauchon (Paris), 728 recommended books, movies, El Viajero (Madrid), 604 Fauno Bar (Sorrento), 684 and music, 338–339 Email Café (Nice), 400 The Feast Day of San Marco restrooms, 340 Emerging Horizons, 49 (Venice), 911 safety, 340 Eminönü (Istanbul), 494 Feast of St. Blaise (Dubrovnik), shopping, 354 Empire Club (Vienna), 937 328 sightseeing, 350–354 Energie (Rome), 835 Feast of St. Domnius (Split), 246 sleeping, 340–344 Englischer Garten (Munich), Febiofest (Prague), 759 starting a conversation with 648, 651 Feira de Ladra (Lisbon), 539 a local, 334 English, teaching, 52 Fenix (Stockholm), 873 taxis, 336 Enigma (Santorini), 450 Feria de Abril (Seville), 855 telephone tips, 340 Enjoy Rome, 819 Ferries, 37, 47 tipping, 340 Enoteca Belledonne (Naples), Festa de la Mercé (Barcelona), 12 hours in, 353 665 138 university scene, 350 Erechtheion (Athens), 114 Festa del Redentore (Venice), websites, 337–338 Ergostasio (Athens), 113 911 youth information service Ermita de San Antonio de la Festa di San Giovanni offices, 340 Florida Panteón de Goya (Florence), 380–381 INDEX Edinburgh Castle, 351 (Madrid), 606 Festa Major de Gràcia Edinburgh International Jazz & Erotik Museum (Berlin), (Barcelona), 138 Blues Festival, 351 166–167 Festas dos Santos Populares Edinburgh University, 350 Érra Café (Prague), 750 (Lisbon), 534 EFTI (Escuela de Fotografía y Es Cavellet Beach (Ibiza), 477 Festival Month (Edinburgh), 351 Centro de Imagen; Madrid), Escorted tours, 40 The Festival of the Sea 607 Estates Theatre (Prague), 756 (Reykjavík), 782 Egon Schiele Foundation and Ethic (Rome), 835 Fete de la Musique (Paris), 719 the Egon Schiele Centrum Etnomusic (Barcelona), 142 Fete de St-Sylvestre (Paris), 720 (Cesk; Krumlov), 768 Etruscan Museum (the Vatican), The Fez Club (Bath), 582 Egyptian Obelisk (Istanbul), 509 827 Fiddler’s Elbow (Florence), 377 Egyptian Spice Bazaar Eurailpass, 40, 41 Fiesole, 389 (Istanbul), 514 The euro, 21–22 The Fifth Bar (Paris), 711 Eiger, 488 EuroArte (Lisbon), 532 Figueres, 143 Eklektika Café (Budapest), 208 Eurolines, 47 Filmfest München (Munich), Elafiti Islands, 332 Europe by Air, 46 647 Elaine’s Vintage Clothes E-vision (Florence), 391 Finalmente (Lisbon), 531 (Edinburgh), 354 Excess (Vienna), 936 Fine Arts Museum (Zurich), 964 El Barón Rampante (Seville), Finnegan (Rome), 814 853 Finnhamn, 879 El Café que Pone Muebles F First Floor (Vienna), 937 Navarro (Barcelona), 132 Fabric (London), 2, 566 Fish & Chips (Antwerp), 100 El Corte Inglés (Seville), 859 Faces Disco (Brac), 261 Fishing El Divino (Ibiza), 475 Facultad de Bellas Artes Dublin, 301 Elefunk (Seville), 852 (Madrid), 607 Galway, 317 El Encants (Barcelona), 143 FA Cup Final (London), 571 5.Kat, 506 INDEX 985 Index a local, 306 308 playing outside, 317–318 shopping, 318–319 sightseeing, 316–317 sleeping, 308–310 starting a conversation with youth information service, laundry, 308 luggage storage, 308 pharmacies, 308 post offices, 308 telephone tips, 308 best of, 267 crisis centers, 307 culture tips, 307 eating, 310–311 emergencies, 308 festivals, 316 gay bars, 314–315 getting to and around, 306 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 308 neighborhoods, 307 partying, 311–315 performing arts, 315–316 190 (Milan), 625 729–730 (Glasgow), 435 (Edinburgh), 352 (Barcelona), 140 Galway Film Fleadh, 316 G Gaiety (Dublin), 292 495 Galata (Karaköy; Istanbul), Galerie de la Java (Paris), 729 Galerie MXM (Prague), 755 Galeries St-Hubert (Brussels), Galleria Borghese (Rome), 829 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Galleries Lafayette (Paris), Gallery of Modern Art Galway Galway Arts Centre, 316 Galway Arts Festival, 316 Galway City, 305–319 Frituur N°1 (Antwerp), 5, 93 Frituur N°1 (Antwerp), Fritz Hot Club (Barcelona), 134 Front Door (Galway), 313 291 The Front Lounge (Dublin), Fruitmarket Gallery Fun Club (Seville), 852 Fundació Joan Miró best of, 395 business hours, 396, 398 culture tips, 396 emergencies, 398 festivals, 395–396 free and easy activities, 396 telephone, 398 tipping, 398 Dubrovnik, 331 Hvar, 257 Florence, 389 Istanbul, 512 Lisbon, 537 London, 571, 578 Milan, 627 Munich, 651 Rome, 833 Barcelona, 136 Brussels, 189–190 See also specific destinations Danish Resistance 1940–1945; Copenhagen), 241 (Rome), 824 (Amsterdam), 79 648–649 755 (Budapest), 211 (Monaco), 396 578 The French Riviera, 394–416. Freni e Frizioni (Rome), 815 Friday Market (Antwerp), 100 Friends (Prague), 754 The Friends Pub (Florence), 378 Frihedsmuseet (The Museum of Fringe Festival (Edinburgh), 347 The Fortress Citadel (Hvar), 257 Forum of Trajan (Rome), 821 Fountain of the Four Rivers Frágil (Lisbon), 531 Franciscan Monastery Frank, Anne, House Frauencafé (Vienna), 937 Frauenkirche (Munich), Fraumünster (Zurich), 964 Freischwimmer (Berlin), 162 The French Institute (Prague), Forbidden Planet (Dublin), 304 Forbidden Planet (Dublin), Forio, 688 Formentera, 478–479 Formula One Grand Prix Formula One Grand Prix Foro Italico (Rome), 833 Fortnum & Mason (London), Football (soccer) 361–362 a local, 361 movies, and music, 362–363 356–359 12 hours in, 388 university scene, 385 websites, 362 youth information services, restrooms, 365 safety, 365 shopping, 390–392 sightseeing, 380–388 sleeping, 365–371 starting a conversation with telephone tips, 365 tourist offices, 361 luggage storage, 364 partying, 376–379 performing arts, 379–380 playing outside, 389–390 post offices, 364–365 recommended books, emergencies, 364 farm stays, 368 festivals, 380 gay bars, 379 gelato, 375 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 364 laundry, 364 Vienna, 946 best of, 356 cellphones, 363 consulates, 363 culture tips, 362 eating, 372–376 Amsterdam, 84 Athens, 9, 102, 105, 117 Budapest, 220 Lisbon, 539 Nice, 406 Focus Theatre (Dublin), 292 Foire du Trône (Paris), 719 Fonó (Budapest), 209 Fontana di Trevi (Rome), 825 Flying Wheels Travel, 48 FNAC (Antwerp), 100 FNAC (Paris), 729 Flip (Dublin), 304 Flohmarkt (Vienna), 946 Florence, 355–393 Flaminio (Rome), 794 Flaminio (Rome), Flea markets 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 985 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 986

986 Index Galway International Oyster Ghetto Nuovo (Venice), 915–916 Globe Bookstore and Festival, 316 Ghosts and Gore (Edinburgh), Coffeehouse (Prague), 757 Galway Irish Crystal Heritage 9, 337 Globus/Cosmos, 40 Centre, 316 Gianicolo (Rome), 820 Glyfada (Athens), 112 Galway Market, 318 Giardini Pubblici (Milan), 626 The Golden Circle (Iceland), Galway Races, 316 Giardini Reali (Venice), 918–919 785–786 The Garage (Glasgow), 431 Gigasport (Prague), 765 Golf, Lisbon, 538 Garricks Head (Bath), 582 Giverny, 731 Government websites, 52–53 G’Art (Florence), 391 Glasgay! (Glasgow), 435 GPO (Galway), 312 The Gate (Dublin), 292–293 Glasgow, 417–439 Gràcia (Barcelona), 122 Gaudí i Cornet, Antonio, 139 best of, 418 The Grand Bazaar (Istanbul), 9, G-A-Y (London), 568 cafes and tearooms, 430 492, 514 Gay and lesbian travelers, cellphones, 422 Grand Canal (Venice), 912 49–50 coffee houses, 430–431 Grand Escurial (Nice), 404 Amsterdam, 79 culture tips, 420–421 Grand Ole Opry (Glasgow), 433 Antwerp, 95–96 currency, 422 Grand-Place (Brussels), 187 Barcelona, 136 eating, 428–430 Grand Rokk (Reykjavík), 780 Berlin, 163 emergencies, 422 Grands Appartements Brussels, 185 festivals, 434 (Monaco), 416 Dublin, 276, 291–292 gay bars, 432 Grand Veranda (Stockholm), 7 Edinburgh, 349 getting to and around, Great Spitalfields Pancake Race Florence, 379 418–420 (London), 571 Galway, 314–315 Internet/Wi-Fi access, GREC Festival (Barcelona), Glasgow, 432 422–423 137–138 Ibiza, 477 laundry, 423 Greek Folk Art Museum Ireland in general, 315 luggage storage, 423 (Athens), 116 Istanbul, 507 neighborhoods, 420 The Greek Islands, 440–464. Lisbon, 531 partying, 431–433 See also specific islands London, 567–568, 572 performing arts, 433 best of, 440–442 INDEX Milan, 623 playing outside, 437–438 island-hopping by boat, 441 Munich, 646 post offices, 423 Greene’s Bookshop Ltd. Naples, 666 recommended books, movies, (Dublin), 304 Nice, 405 and music, 421–422 Green Park (London), 577 Paris, 716 safety, 423 Grinda, 879 Prague, 753–754 shopping, 438–439 Grindelwald, 489 Reykjavík, 781 sightseeing, 434–437 Grinzing, 944 Rome, 816–817 sleeping, 423–428 Grossmünster (Zurich), 964 Seville, 853 spectator sports, 438 Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), Stockholm, 873, 874 starting a conversation with 677 Vienna, 937 a local, 421 Grunewald (Berlin), 170 Zurich, 962–963 taxis, 419 GUBU (Dublin), 291 Gay.com Travel, 49 telephone tips, 423 The Gues’t (Nice), 404 Gay Pride Parade (Paris), 719 tipping, 423 Guinness Storehouse (Dublin), Gelateria Italiana Peppino tourist offices, 420 298–299 (Amsterdam), 73 12 hours in, 437 Gullfoss waterfall (Iceland), 785 Gelato, 5 university scene, 435 Guy Fawkes Night (London), 572 Gellért Bathhouse (Budapest), websites, 420, 434 218 Glasgow Comedy Festival, 434 General Post Office (GPO; Glasgow Green, 437–438 H Dublin), 297–298 Glasgow Science Centre, Habanilla Café (Seville), 3, The George (Dublin), 291 435–437 852–853 Gerbeaud’s (Budapest), 210 Glasgow University, 435 Hadrian’s Arch (Athens), 116 German State Opera (Berlin), Glastonbury, 583 Haggis, 344 164 Glastonbury Tor, 583 Hagia Sophia (Istanbul), 509 Geyser National Park (Iceland), Glenlee, S.V., the Tall Ship at 785 Glasgow Harbour, 437 INDEX ; ula), 987 c esk C Index e (Rose Hotel; *z Lisbon, 524, 526 London, 559–560 Madrid, 593, 597 Milan, 618 Munich, 636 Naples, 662 Nice, 401–402 Paris, 701, 704 Prague, 743, 746 Reykjavík, 775–776 Rome, 799, 802 Salzburg, 948 Santorini, 447–448 Seville, 844–845 Split, 249–250 Stockholm, 866–867 Venice, 890–891 Vienna, 929, 932 Zurich, 957 Budapest, 202–203 Cannes, 411 Copenhagen, 229 Dublin, 276, 278 Dubrovnik, 324 Edinburgh, 341 Florence, 365 Galway, 308–309 Glasgow, 423–428 Interlaken, 483–484 Ischia, 687 Istanbul, 499 Krumlov), 768 264 Modern Art (Dublin), 295–296 Tomb (Paris), 721 904–905 Hotels, best, 5 Hot Springs Party (Ischia), 687 House of Marco Polo (Kor Hoverspeed, 38 H202 (Florence), 378 Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Huis Marseille (Amsterdam), 80 Humana (Vienna), 945 Hotel Amadeus (Seville), 5 Hotel Arena (Amsterdam), 5 Hotel Burchianti (Florence), 5 Hôtel Byblos (St-Tropez), 5 Hôtel des Invalides/Napoleon’s Hotel La Palma (Capri), 675 Hotel mitArt (Berlin), 4 Hotel Monaco (Venice), Hotel R Zurich, 966–967 St-Tropez, 409 Santorini, 452–453 Vienna, 943 Amsterdam, 66–67 Antwerp, 91 Athens, 107, 110 Barcelona, 126–127 Berlin, 152, 154 best, 4 Bruges, 191 Brussels, 180 Galway, 317 Ibiza, 478 Stockholm, 878 432 Budapest), 212 Skeppsholmen (Stockholm), 4 78–79 348 (Vienna), 925, 940 487 (Salzburg), 950 Horse riding, Dublin, 301 The Horse Shoe Bar (Glasgow), Horse-trekking, Reykjavík, 784 Hósök tere (Hero’s Square; Hostel Af Chapman/ Hostelling International, 26 Hostels, 26 Holala! (Ibiza), 479 Holborn (London), 554 Holburne (Bath), 582–583 Holdudvar (Budapest), 208 Hole in the Wall (Galway), 313 Holland Festival (Amsterdam), Hollywood (Milan), 623 Homer’s Grave (Ios), 459 The Honeycomb (Edinburgh), Hoppe (Amsterdam), 75 Horseback riding Horse racing, Galway, 317–318 Hippodrome (Istanbul), 509 Hippy Market (Ibiza), 478 Hisar (Istanbul), 512 The Hive (Glasgow), 435 Hodges Figgis (Dublin), 305 Hofbräuhaus (Munich), 3, 644 Hofburg Palace Complex Hogmanay (Edinburgh), 351 Hogmanay (Glasgow), 435 Höhenpromenade (Interlaken), Hohensalzburg Fortress Hohe Wand (Vienna), 944 Höheweg (Interlaken), 487 trh; ; (Istanbul), 513 Dublin, 301–303 Nice, 406 Reykjavík, 784 Bastion; Budapest), 212 828–829 (Amsterdam), 83 (London), 576 (Edinburgh), 352 (Amsterdam), 9, 56, 79–80 (Amsterdam), 77 Vatican), 827 220 Prague), 765 192–193 136 Museum (Amsterdam), 80 (Dublin), 292 Hamley’s (London), 579 Hammam Halászbástya (Fisherman’s 782 Hallgrímskirkja (Reykjavík), Hall of Emperors (Rome), 731 Hall of Mirrors (Versailles), Halt Bar (Glasgow), 432 Hiking and walking Het Grote Avontuur Highgate (London), 556 High Holborn Residence The High Kirk of St. Giles High season, 13 Heineken Music Hall The Helix (Dublin), 293 Hercules, statue of (the Herend Porcelain Company, Hessenhuis (Antwerp), 95 Hatchard’s (London), 579 Havel’s Market (Havelsk Health concerns, 29–30 Heilig Bloed Basiliek (Bruges), Heimatwerk Interlaken, 487 Heineken Experience Harlem Jazz Club (Barcelona), Harlequin (Dublin), 297 Harrods (London), 579 Harry Potter books, 338 Harry’s Bar (Venice), 882, 904 Harvey Nichols (Edinburgh), 354 Hash Marijuana & Hemp Hampstead (London), 556 H&M (Stockholm), 878 Hangar (Rome), 817 Hangar 7 (Vienna), 948–949 Ha’Penny Laugh Comedy Club Harem (Istanbul), 510 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 987 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 988

988 Index Humboldt University (Berlin), Imperial War Museum International Youth Travel Card 167 (London), 571 (IYTC), 48 Hungarian National Museum Indochine (Zurich), 962 Internet access, 33 (Budapest), 212–213 Inkadelic (Ibiza), 478 Internet/Wi-Fi access Hurling, 302 In-line skating, Amsterdam, 82 Amsterdam, 65 Hüsi Bar-Cafè (Interlaken), 486 Inner City (Vienna), 925 Antwerp, 90 Hvar, 254–258 Interlaken, 480–490 Athens, 106 Hyde Park (London), 577 best of, 481 Barcelona, 123 Hype (Ibiza), 474 currency, 482 Berlin, 151 eating, 485–486 Brussels, 179 emergencies and safety, 482 Budapest, 201 I getting to and around, Copenhagen, 228 Ibiza, 465–479 481–482 Dublin, 275 best of, 466 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 483 Dubrovnik, 324 culture tips, 469 language, 483 Edinburgh, 340 drugs, 469 partying, 486 Florence, 364 eating, 472–473 post office, 483 Galway City, 308 emergencies, 469 road trips, 488–490 Glasgow, 422–423 gay bars, 477 shopping, 487–488 Ibiza, 473 getting to and around, sightseeing and playing Interlaken, 483 466–467 outside, 487 Istanbul, 498 hanging out, 474 sleeping, 483–485 Lisbon, 523 Internet access, 473 telephone tips, 483 London, 558 neighborhoods, 467 tourist office, 482 Madrid, 592 partying, 473–477 website, 482 Milan, 617 performing arts, 477 International Arts Biennale, Munich, 635 pharmacies, 469 508 Naples, 660 playing outside, 477–478 International Association for Paris, 700 shopping, 478 Medical Assistance to Reykjavík, 775 INDEX sleeping, 469–471 Travelers (IAMAT), 30 Rome, 797–798 telephone tips, 469 International Bar (Dublin), 292 Santorini, 447 tourist offices, 468 International Driver’s License, Seville, 843 websites and magazines, 468 46 Stockholm, 865 Ibiza Town, 467 The International Ecotourism Venice, 889 Ibrox Stadium (Glasgow), 438 Society (TIES), 50 Vienna, 929 ICan, 49 International Film Festival In The Park (Glasgow), 434 Icarus (Mykonos), 463 Berlin, 165 Ios, 453–459 Icebar (Stockholm), 873 Cannes, 414 Irish Film Centre (Dublin), 298 Icelandic Dance Company International Gay and Lesbian Irish Music Hall of Fame (Reykjavík), 781 Travel Association (IGLTA), (Dublin), 298 Icelandic Opera (Reykjavík), 781 49 Irók Boltja (Budapest), 220 Ice-skating International Istanbul Film Isaacs Hostel (Dublin), 4 Amsterdam, 82 Festival, 508 Isar River (Munich), 651 Antwerp, 97 International Istanbul Music Ischia, 685–688 Copenhagen, 242 Festival, 508 Isla Cartuja (Seville), 841 Glasgow, 438 International Jazz Festival The Island Brac, 258–262 Icon (Berlin), 162 Glasgow, 434 Island Central (Athens), 113 IKEA (Stockholm), 878 Prague, 760 The Island Korcula, 262–265 Ile Ste-Marguerite, 415 International Music Festival Islington (London), 556 Ile St. Honorat, 415 (Vienna), 939 Istanbul, 491–516 Iles de Lerin, 415 International Society of Travel ATMs, 497 Il Locale (Rome), 815–816 Medicine, 30 best of, 491–492 Il Salvagente (Milan), 628 International Storytelling cellphones, 497 Imperial Forums (Rome), Festival (Edinburgh), 351 culture tips, 496 820–821 International Student Identity eating, 503–505 Card (ISIC), 48 embassies, 497–498 INDEX 989 Index ula, 262–265 ula Museum, 264–265 c c 875 Looier (Amsterdam), 84 (KFDA; Brussels), 187 Museum (Dublin), 296 (Glasgow), 433 218 Budapest), 214 450 Vlaanderen (Antwerp), 96–97 Schone Kunsten Antwerpen (Antwerp), 98 Market Hall; Budapest), 220 Arena (Glasgow), 438 (Galway), 318 577 Kulturhuset (Stockholm), 874 Kungliga Slottet (Stockholm), Kungsholmen (Stockholm), 877 Kunst-& Antiekcentrum De KunstenFESTIVALdesArts King Döner (Barcelona), 5 King’s Head (Galway), 313, 314 The King’s Head (London), 569 King Tut’s Wah-Wah Hut Kinki (Amsterdam), 83 Kinky (Naples), 665 Kiraly Bathhouse (Budapest), Királyi Palota (Buda Palace; Kira Thira Jazz Bar (Santorini), Kitesurfing, Dublin, 303 Kit Kat Club (Berlin), 162 Kleine Scheidegg, 488 Klub Lávka (Prague), 752 Knightsbridge (London), 551 Kolonaki (Athens), 117 Koninklijk Ballet van Koninklijk Museum voor Konzerthaus Berlin, 164 Koo Club (Santorini), 450 Kor Kor Kozmic Music (Brussels), 190 Központi Vásárcsarnok (Central The Kulminator (Antwerp), 95 Kultfabrik (Munich), 645 Kelvin Hall International Sports Kelvin Hall International Kemanci (Istanbul), 505 Kemwel, 39 Kenny’s Book Shop and Gallery Kensington (London), 551–552 Kensington Gardens (London), Keyser Soze (Berlin), 162 Killiney Hill, 302 Kilmainham Gaol Historical m (Prague), * vestka Galerie (Prague), S telet (Split), 252 s í 168 (Budapest), 217 749 185 6–7, 779 962 756 (Glasgow), 433 79 915–916 r Kaiser Wilhelm Church (Berlin), Kalamajka Dance House Kalamoto, 332 Kalerie (Berlin), 171 Kamari (Santorini), 452 Kapital (Madrid), 603 Karaköy (Galata; Istanbul), 495 Karma (Dublin), 288 Ka Kaufhaus Schrill (Berlin), 171 Kaufleuten (Zurich), 962 Káva Káva Káva (Prague), 761 Kavárna Obecní d Kelvingrove Park (Glasgow), 437 K Kaaitheater Studios (Brussels), Kactus (Vienna), 936 KaDeWe (Berlin), 171 Kaffee Burger (Berlin), 162 Kaffi Hljomalind (Reykjavík), Kaffibrennslan (Reykjavík), 780 Kahlenberg, 944 Jules Verne Wine Bar (Zurich), Jungfrau, 488 Jungfraujoch, 488 Jungle Montmartre (Paris), 715 Jewish Museum (Prague), 760 Jimmy’s Inferno (Athens), 117 Jimmy Woo (Amsterdam), 75 Ji John Anthony (Bath), 583 Jolly’s (Bath), 584 Jongleurs (Edinburgh), 349 Jongleurs Comedy Club The Jordaan (Amsterdam), 61 Jordaan Festival (Amsterdam), Jo’s Bar (Prague), 761 José Alfredo (Madrid), 604 Josefov (Prague), 737 Josefstadt (Vienna), 926 Jerusalem (London), 567, 576 Jerusalem (London), The Jewish Ghetto (Venice), a local, 497 and music, 496 492–494 tourist offices, 496 12 hours in, 511 university scene, 511–512 websites, 496 road trip from, 514 safety, 498 shopping, 512–514 sightseeing, 508–512 sleeping, 499–503 soccer, 512 starting a conversation with tipping, 498 luggage storage, 498 neighborhoods, 494 partying, 505–508 performing arts, 508 playing outside, 512 post offices, 498 recommended books, movies, restrooms, 498 emergencies, 498 festivals, 508 gay nightlife, 507 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 498 laundry, 498 506–507 (Lisbon), 537–538 725, 727 509, 510 Java (Galway), 313 Jazz & Image (Rome), 818 Jazz-Fest Berlin (Berlin), 165 Jenners (Edinburgh), 354 Jenny Vander (Dublin), 305 James Bond, 490 James Joyce (Istanbul), Jardim Zoológico de Lisboa Jardin des Tuileries (Paris), 726 Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris), Itineraries, 36 Itinerary tips, 13 J Jaap Edenbaan (Amsterdam), 82 Jackson Hall (Athens), 113 Jáma (Prague), 750–751 Jamboree (Barcelona), 136 Istanbul Archaeology Museum, Istanbul University, 511–512 Itaca (Seville), 853 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 989 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 990

990 Index Kunsthalle (Vienna), 942 L’Atelier Privé des Langues, 51 Lighthouse (Glasgow), 434 Kunsthaus (Zurich), 964 La Terrrazza (Barcelona), 135 Likavitos Festival (Athens), 114 Kunsthistorisches Museum Latin Club Fuego (Dubrovnik), Lillie’s Bordello (Dublin), 291 (Vienna), 941 327 Limelight (London), 566 Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm; Laugardalshöll (Reykjavík), 781 Lipizzaner Museum (Vienna), Berlin), 148 Laundry Day (Antwerp), 97 941 Kuzelky (Prague), 764 Laurentian Library (Florence), Liquid (Galway), 314–315 K.V. (Istanbul), 512 384 Lisboa Card, 533 Lava (Stockholm), 874 Lisbon, 517–540 Lavapies (Madrid), 589 best of, 518 L La Venencia (Madrid), 604 cafes and tearooms, 529 La Base (Rome), 816 La Vía Láctea (Madrid), 605 cellphones, 522–523 La Bodeguita (Lisbon), 530–531 La Vineria (Rome), 814–815 culture tips, 522 La Boqueria/Mercat de Sant La Voile Rouge (St-Tropez), 410 eating, 527–529 Josep (Barcelona), 133 Lazzarella (Naples), 665–666 embassies, 523 Labyrinth (Dubrovnik), 327–328 Leader Price (Paris), 707 emergencies, 523 La Carbonería (Seville), Le Blue Boy (Nice), 405 festivals, 533–534 854–855 Le Blue Note (Paris), 4, 715 gay bars and clubs, 531 The Lady and the Unicorn Le Botanique (Brussels), 184 getting to and around, Tapestries (Paris), 724 Le Carré (Paris), 716 518–521 La Feltrinelli (Florence), 391 Le Cithéa (Paris), 714 hanging out, 530 La Feltrinelli (Rome), 835 Le Club 55 (St-Tropez), 410 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 523 La Fiorentina (Florence), 389 Le Fumoir (Paris), 6, 710 laundry, 523 La Fontelina (Capri), 678 Le Fuse (Brussels), 184 luggage storage, 523 La Font Mágica (Barcelona), 138 Le Garage (Madrid), 603 neighborhoods, 521 Lagoon Leisure Centre Le Graal (Galway), 313 partying, 530–532 (Glasgow), 438 Leicester Square (London), 553 performing arts, 532–533 Lainzer Tiergarten (Vienna), 943 Le Klub (Nice), 405 playing outside, 536–538 La Latina (Madrid), 589 Leonardo da Vinci post offices, 523 INDEX La Locomotive (Paris), 715 Annunciation (Florence), 387 recommended books, movies, La Maison (Rome), 816 The Last Supper (Milan), 625 and music, 522 La Mela (Naples), 666 Leopold Museum (Vienna), 942 restrooms, 523 Landesmuseum (Zurich), 964 Leopoldstadt (Vienna), 925–926 road trip, 539–540 Landhuis van het Brugse Vrije Le Progress (Paris), 714 safety, 523–524 (Bruges), 192–193 Le Reflet (Paris), 724 shopping, 538–539 Landstrasse (Vienna), 926 Le Rendez-vous des Amis sightseeing, 533–536 The Language Center (Istanbul), (Paris), 715–716 sleeping, 524–527 512 Le Scimmie (Milan), 623 starting a conversation with Language courses, 51 Les Deux Magots (Paris), 710 a local, 519 Language Courses Abroad, 51 Les Distilleries Ideal (Nice), 404 taxis, 520 Laocoön (the Vatican), 827 Le 6 (Nice), 405 tipping, 524 La Paloma (Barcelona), 134–135 Les Puces de Nice (Nice), 406 tourist offices, 521–522 La Petit Fer à Cheval (Paris), 711, Levant (Istanbul), 495 12 hours in, 536 714 Le Whisky à Gogo/Ladybird university scene, 536 Largo das Portas do Sol (Cannes), 414 websites, 522 (Lisbon), 534 Le You (Brussels), 184 Literární kavárna G plus G La Rinascente (Florence), 391 Le Zattere (Venice), 912 (Prague), 758 La Rinascente (Milan), 628 L’Hôtel (Paris), 5 The Little Mermaid (Den Lille La Risacca (Amalfi), 682 Liberation Day (Amsterdam), 78 Havfrue) Statue La Riviera (Madrid), 605 Liberation Monument (Copenhagen), 239 La Scala (Milan), 624 (Budapest), 212 Little Venice (Mykonos), 463 Las Ramblas (Barcelona), 9, 121 Liberty of London, 579 Live music, best, 3–4 Las Salinas Beach (Ibiza), 477 Liberty Travel, 39 Livraria Bertrand (Lisbon), 538 Last Blast (Milan), 622 Libro Azul (Ibiza), 479 Livraria Britanica (Lisbon), 538 L’Atelier-Palm Beach (Cannes), The Lido (Venice), 896, 919 Loft (Cannes), 414 414 Lifestyle websites, 53 Lokrum Island, 331 INDEX ula), c 991 Index Lisbon, 539 London, 580 Munich, 652 Paris, 729 Prague, 765 Rome, 836 Venice, 920, 921 Vienna, 946 Amsterdam, 84 Antwerp, 100 Barcelona, 133, 143 best, 9 Dublin, 305 Florence, 390 Galway, 318 187–188 (Madrid), 609 (Barcelona), 140 (Barcelona), 137 9, 189 Clignancourt (Paris), 9, 729 (Hungarian State Opera House; Budapest), 216 189–190 Prague), 736–737 754 264 926, 942 Manganari Beach (Ios), 459 Manneken-Pis (Brussels), 173, Manto’s (Mykonos), 463 Manuel Contreras II, Luthier Manzana de la Discordia Mapa Mundi (Ibiza), 479 Marais Plus (Paris), 730 Marató de L’Espectacle Marché à la Brocante (Nice), 406 Marché-aux-Puces (Brussels), Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Marco Polo, House of (Kor Magyar Allami Operaház Magyar Allami Maison du Football (Brussels), Maki Beach (Bodrum), 516 Malasaña (Madrid), 589 Malá Strana (Lesser Town; Malostranská Beseda (Prague), Mamacas (Athens), 113 Margareten (Vienna), 926 Margaret Island (Budapest), 217 Mariahilferstrasse (Vienna), Marina Grande (Sorrento), 685 Marina Piccola (Capri), 678–679 The Market Bar (Dublin), 288 Markets a local, 587 587–589 terms, 610 and music, 590–591 sightseeing, 606–608 sleeping, 593–599 starting a conversation with tapeos, 604 telephone tips, 593 top 10 local favorites, 591 tourist offices, 590 12 hours in, 608 university scene, 607 websites, 590 glossary of common slang Internet/Wi-Fi access, 592 laundry, 592 luggage storage, 592 neighborhoods, 589–590 partying, 602–605 performing arts, 605–606 pharmacies, 592 playing outside, 608–609 post offices, 592 recommended books, movies, restrooms, 592 safety, 592–593 shopping, 609–612 best of, 586–587 cellphones, 591 culture tips, 590 currency, 591–592 eating, 599–602 embassies, 592 emergencies, 592 festivals, 606 getting to and around, (Naples), 666 (Florence), 380 (Amsterdam), 79 Maggio dei Monumenti Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Magic Fountain (Barcelona), 138 Magnet (Berlin), 162 M Macho 2 (Brussels), 185 Macnas (Galway), 315 Macotte (Zurich), 962 Madame Tussaud’s Madrid, 585–610 Lunatheater (Brussels), 185 Lunatheater (Brussels), Lux (Lisbon), 531 a local, 543 and music, 557 548–550 tourist offices, 556 Travelcards, 550 12 hours in, 573 university scene, 576 websites, 556 shopping, 578–581 sightseeing, 570–577 sleeping, 559–562 spectator sports, 578 starting a conversation with taxis, 549 tipping, 559 neighborhoods, 550–556 partying, 565–568 performing arts, 568–570 playing outside, 577–578 post offices, 559 recommended books, movies, road trips from, 581–584 safety, 559 emergencies, 558 festivals, 570–572 free and easy activities, 571 gay bars, 567–568, 572 getting to and around, 543, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 558 laundry, 558 luggage storage, 558 best of, 542 cellphones, 557–558 coffee houses, 565 culture tips, 556–557 eating, 562–565 embassies, 558 (Dubrovnik), 329 of Munich, 650–651 (Stockholm), 878 Lucerna Music Bar (Prague), 754 Lucky’s, (Santorini), 6 Ludwig-Maximilians-University Lopud, 332 Los Gallos (Seville), 855 Louise Gallery (Brussels), 185 Louisiana Bistro (Milan), 622 The Lounge (Florence), 377 Love Parade (Berlin), 166 Lovrijenac Fortress The Long Hall (Dublin), 2, 289 The Long Hop (Paris), 714 Loonees (Florence), 378 Loppmarknaden i Skärholmen London, 541–584 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 991 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 992

992 Index Marmontova Street (Pazar; currency, 617 Monroe’s (Galway), 314 Split), 252 eating, 620–622 Monte-Carlo Casino, 416 Marquis de Sade (Prague), 751 embassies, 617 Monte Solaro chairlift Martina Novelli (Rome), 835 emergencies, 617 (Anacapri), 678 Marylebone (London), 552–553 gay nightlife, 623 Montuno’s (London), 567 Matilda Club (Sorrento), 684 getting to and around, Moog (Barcelona), 135 Mátyás Templom (St. Matthias 612–613, 616 Moore Street Market (Dublin), Church; Budapest), 214 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 617 305 Mausoleum of Halicarnassus laundry, 617 Morrison’s Music Pub (Bodrum), 516 luggage storage, 618 (Budapest), 209 Max Emanuel Brauerei neighborhoods, 616 MossRehab, 49 (Munich), 644 partying, 622–623 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Maximillianstrasse (Munich), performing arts, 624 (Lisbon), 534–535 632 playing outside, 626–627 Mother Red Caps Market Maximum Underground post offices, 618 (Dublin), 305 (Prague), 765 restrooms, 618 The Moulin Rouge (Paris), Mayfair (London), 552 safety, 618 717–718 The Mazet (Paris), 714 shopping, 627–628 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus, Mecca (Prague), 752 sightseeing, 624–627 Museum (Prague), 762 Meccanò (Florence), 378 sleeping, 618–620 Mozart Dinner Concert MEDEX Assistance, 31 spectator sports, 627 (Salzburg), 949 MedicAlert identification tag, tourist offices, 616 Mucsarnok Múzeum (Museum 30–31 12 hours in, 625 of Modern Art; Budapest), 212 Medici Chapels (Florence), 383 university scene, 626 Mulligan (Galway), 318–319 Megaron Musikis (Athens), 113 websites, 616 Mumok (Vienna), 942 Meiringen, 488–489 Milan International Film Münchner Philharmoniker Melkweg (Amsterdam), 3, 77 Festival, 624 (Munich), 647 Mercado da Ribeira (Lisbon), Milk and Honey (London), 567 Munich, 629–654 539 Millenium Monument best of, 629–630 INDEX Mercado Fuencarral (Madrid), (Budapest), 212 Catedral, 633 609–610 Mini-Europe (Brussels), 188 cellphones, 634–635 Mercato di Testaccio (Rome), Minority travelers, 50 consulates, 635 836 Mirador de Colón (Barcelona), culture tips, 634 Mercato La Loggia (Florence), 138 currency, 635 390 Mljet, 258 eating, 642–643 Mercato Rialto (Venice), 920 Mobile phones, 35–36 emergencies, 635 Mercurio, 42 Moby Dick Bar (Brac), 261 festivals, 647 Merlin Theater (Budapest), 217 Moderna Dansteatern gay nightlife, 646 Mestizaje, 134 (Stockholm), 874 getting to and around, Mestrovi5 Gallery (Split), 252 Moderna Museet (Stockholm), 630–632 Metaverso (Rome), 817 875 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 635 Metro (Stockholm), 873 Mogador (Antwerp), 95 laundromats, 635 Michelangelo, 827, 832 Mojo Blues Bar (Copenhagen), luggage storage, 635 Holy Family (Florence), 387 236 neighborhoods, 632–633 Pietà (the Vatican), 826 Molecule Man (Berlin), 169 partying, 643–646 Rondanini Pietà (Milan), 624 Moles (Bath), 582 performing arts, 646–647 Michelin maps, 46 Mommy (Athens), 113 playing outside, 651–652 Midsummer’s Night Monaco, 415–416 post offices, 635 (Copenhagen), 237 Monastiraki Flea Market recommended books, movies, Mike’s Bike Tours (Amsterdam), (Athens), 9, 102, 105, 117 and music, 634 60 Mönch, 488 restrooms, 636 Milan, 611–628 Mondo (Stockholm), 872 road trips, 653–654 best of, 612 Mondo at Stella (Madrid), 603 safety, 636 cafes and tearooms, 622 Mondo Culto! (Florence), 381 shopping, 652 cellphones, 617 Money matters, 21–24 sightseeing, 647–651 culture tips, 616 websites, 53 sleeping, 636–642 INDEX 993 Index ída (Prague), 759 r 656–658 and music, 659 a local, 659 660 emergencies, 660 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 660 laundry, 660 luggage storage, 660 neighborhoods, 658 partying, 665–666 playing outside, 670–671 post offices, 660 recommended books, movies, restrooms, 660 safety, 660 shopping, 671 sightseeing, 666–670 sleeping, 660–663 starting a conversation with tipping, 660 tourist offices, 658–659 12 hours in, 669 websites, 659 culture tips, 659 currency, 660 eating, 663–665 embassies and consulates, (Lisbon), 535–536 293 (Amsterdam), 78 Villa Giulia (Rome), 829–830 574 905–906 Dance Festival (Milan), 624 Museum (Athens), 116 Budapest), 215 350 National Coach Museum National Concert Hall (Dublin), National Cycling Day National Etruscan Museum at The National Gallery (London), Napoleon’s Tomb (Paris), 721 Naranzaria (Venice), 3, Národní t NASA (Reykjavík), 780 Naschmarkt (Vienna), 9, 946 Nasti Club (Madrid), 605 National and International National Archaeological N Nachtwerk (Munich), 645 Nagy Cirkusz (Great Circus; Napier University (Edinburgh), Naples, 655–671 ny ; e Moderna (Bologna), 393 (Lisbon), 535 (MACBA; Barcelona), 141 (Uppsala), 880 Charlie (Berlin), 167 (Rembrandt House Museum; Amsterdam), 80 Arsenale (Venice), 917 (Vienna), 942 Catalunya (MNAC; Barcelona), 141 (Lisbon), 535–536 939 (Berlin), 171 (Museum of Medieval Art; Vienna), 940 Venice, 917 (Vienna), 940 (Budapest), 213 941 464 (Stockholm), 875 (Santorini), 452 (Prague), 762 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian Museu d’Art Contemporani 60 Museumboot (Amsterdam), Museum Gustavianum Museum Haus am Checkpoint Museum Het Rembrandthuis Museuminsel (Berlin), 167 Museum Kampa–Sovovy ml Museo Storico Navale and Museo Storico Museo Tattile di Pittura Antica Mystic SK8s (Prague), 765 MuseumQuartier Complex Museums, top 17, 8 Museu Nacional d’Art de Museu Nacional dos Coches Museu Picasso (Barcelona), 141 Music Film Festival (Vienna), Musiekgebouw (Amsterdam), 77 Musik Unter den Gleisen Musikverein (Vienna), 938 Múvész Kávéház (Budapest), 210 Muziektheater (Amsterdam), 78 Mykonos, 459–464 Museum of 18th-Century Museum of Baroque Art Museum of Ethnography Museum of Fine Art (Vienna), Museum of Folklore (Mykonos), Museum of Modern Art Museum of Prehistoric Thira Museumplein (Amsterdam), 61 Museum Mittelalterlicher Kunst spectator sports, 651 spectator sports, tourist offices, 633 12 hours in, 650 university scene, 650–651 websites, 633–634 youth information, 636 Reina Sofía (Madrid), 607 Martino (Naples), 668 (Rome), 829 (Venice), 917 (Florence), 386 Capodimonte (Naples), 669–670 Aquarium (Monaco), 416 386 (Naples), 656, 668–669 857 185–186 Thermes de Cluny (Paris), 723 724 Contemporain (Nice), 405 414–415 Ste-Marguerite), 415 (Nice), 405–406 Orchestra, 647 731 188 (Brussels), 188–189 Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Museo Nazionale di San Museo Nazionale Romano Museo del ‘700 Veneziano Museo dell’Opera del Duomo Museo del Prado (Madrid), 607 Museo e Gallerie di Musée Océanographique et Musée Rodin (Paris), 724 Museo Archeologico (Florence), Museo Archeologico Nazionale Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville), Musée du Cinéma (Brussels), Musée du Louvre (Paris), 723 Musée Matisse (Nice), 406 Musée National du Moyen Age Musée National Picasso (Paris), Musée de la Castre (Cannes), Musée de la Mer (Ile Musée de la Ville Brussels, 189 Musée d’histoire Naturelle Musée d’Orsay (Paris), 723 Murphy’s (Santorini), 450 Musée d’Art Américan Giverny, Musée d’Art Ancien (Brussels), Musée d’Art Moderne Musée d’Art Moderne et Munich Philharmonic 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 993 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 994

994 Index National Gallery of Ireland New York Café Jazz Club Old English Store (Florence), (Dublin), 296 (Brussels), 184 391 National Gallery of Nice, 398–406 Old Fashion Café (Milan), 623 Photography (Reykjavík), 783 Nice Carnaval, 395 Old Fortress (Ibiza), 468 National Gallery of Scotland Nice Festival du Jazz, 396 The Old Jameson Distillery (Edinburgh), 335, 351–352 Nice ‘n’ Sleazy (Glasgow), 433 (Dublin), 299 National Garden (Athens), 117 Nightclubs, best, 2 Old Mrs. Henderson (Munich), National Jewish Festival Nightflight (Munich), 645–646 646 (Budapest), 211 Nimmo’s Long Walk Wine Bar Old Town Hall (Prague), 761 Nationalmuseet (Copenhagen), (Galway), 314 Olivia Cruises & Resorts, 49 241 Nobel, Alfred, 876 Oltrarno (Florence), 361 National Museum (Dublin), 296 Nobel Museum (Stockholm), Olympia (Dublin), 292 National Museum (Prague), 762 876 Olympiapark (Munich), National Museum (Reykjavík), Nobel Prize, 876 632–633, 652 783 Nordiska Museet (Stockholm), Olympic Stadium (Barcelona), Nationalmuseum (Stockholm), 876 139 875 Norrebro (Copenhagen), 226 151 (London), 565 National Museum of Art Notre-Dame (Paris), 722 100 Club (London), 567 (Stockholm), 875–876 Notting Hill (London), 552 O’Neill’s Irish Pub (Nice), 405 National Museum of Scotland Notting Hill Carnival (London), One World Shop (Edinburgh), (Edinburgh), 352 572 354 The National Portrait Gallery Nova (Brussels), 186 Onofrio’s Fountain (London), 574–575 Nové Mêsto (New Town; (Dubrovnik), 328 National Theater (Prague), Prague), 737 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal 756–757 Now, Voyager, 49 (Antwerp), 98 National Theatre (Reykjavík), No. 1 Royal Crescent (Bath), 582 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk 781 Number Two (Capri), 676 (Bruges), 193 National Trust for Scotland Nuova Idea International Opal Lounge (Edinburgh), 348 (Glasgow), 439 (Milan), 623 Open House (London), 572 INDEX Natural History Museum Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Opening hours, 12 (London), 574 (Copenhagen), 241 Open World, 49 Nature (Madrid), 603 Nyhavn (Copenhagen), 225–226 Opera Assos Odeon (Athens), Nautical Museum of the Aegean 113 (Mykonos), 464 Operabaren (Stockholm), 872 Naval History Museum and the O Opernhaus (Zurich), 963 Arsenal (Venice), 917 Obchodní Centrum Novy Orange Bar (Venice), 906, 918 Naval Museum (Santorini), 452 Smíchov (Prague), 766 Original Sound of Music Tour Navigaytion (Antwerp), 97 Océade (Brussels), 189 (Salzburg), 9, 949 Negroni and Zoe (Florence), 377 Oceanario de Lisboa (Lisbon), Orlando’s Column (Dubrovnik), Nelly’s (Reykjavík), 780 535 330 Nemzeti Múzeum (Budapest), O’Ché’s (Galway), 313 Orsanmichele (Florence), 212–213 Octagon Bar (Dublin), 288–289 383–384 Néprajzi Múzeum (Budapest), Odeon (Amsterdam), 75 Orsanmichele, Church of 213 Odeon Cinehall (Florence), 379 (Florence), 380 Ness (Edinburgh), 354 O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 289 Ortaköy (Istanbul), 495, 511 Neubau (Vienna), 926 O Faia (Lisbon), 532 Oschen Garten (Munich), 646 Neue Pinakothek/Pinakothek Off season, 16 Ostiense (Rome), nightlife, 817 der Moderne (Munich), 649 O Guarracino (Capri), 676 Ostiense, Goa (Rome), 817 Neuschwanstein Castle, 653 O’Hara’s Irish Pub (Barcelona), O’Sullivan’s (Paris), 716 New Joli Coeur (Rome), 817 135 Our Lady Cathedral (Antwerp), New Sacristy (Florence), 383 Okresní Muzeum (Cesky 98 New Valentino (Ischia), 687 Krumlov), 768 Out & About, 49 New Year’s Eve Oktoberfest (Munich), 647 Outdoor activities, best, 10 Antwerp, 98 Old Christmas (Croatia), 245 The Outhouse (Edinburgh), 348 Paris, 720 Outlook Tower and Camera Vienna, 939 Obscura (Edinburgh), 352–353 INDEX 995 Index university scene, 724 university scene, websites, 697 360 887, 913 825–826 609 856 140 2, 531 (Venice), 917–918 167–168 (Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra), 164 392–393 832 360, 381 (Florence), 389 539 Piazza Maggiore (Bologna), 392 Piazza Mino (Fiesole), 389 Piazza Navona (Rome), 824 Piazza San Marco (Florence), Piazza San Marco (Venice), 882, Piazza San Pietro (the Vatican), Parque María Luisa (Seville), Passage (Vienna), 937 Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona), Passports, 19 Pavilhao Chinês Bar (Lisbon), Pazarin (Pazar; Split), 252 The Peacock (Dublin), 293 Peggy Guggenheim Collection Peluso (Florence), 391 Pension Unitas (Prague), 5 People (Brussels), 184 Pergamon Museum (Berlin), Perissa (Santorini), 452 Peter Stücken (Munich), 652 Petticoat Lane (London), 580 Philharmonisches Orchester Phoenix Park (Dublin), 296 Piazza dei Martiri (Bologna), Piazza del Campidoglio (Rome), Piazza della Signoria (Florence), Piazza del Popolo (Rome), 824 Piazzale Michelangelo Paris Roller Rando, 726 Park Hotel (London), 577 Parkour (Paris), 725 Parks, best, 10 Parliament (Budapest), 214 608 Parque de Retiro (Madrid), Parque Eduardo VII (Lisbon), Parque Genovés (Cádiz), 860 Parque Juan Carlos I (Madrid), ments), 694–696 and music, 697–699 a local, 698 691–693 partying, 711–716 performing arts, 716–718 picnics, 707–708 playing outside, 725–727 post office, 700–701 recommended books, movies, safety, 701 shopping, 727–730 sightseeing, 718–724 sleeping, 701 starting a conversation with tipping, 701 tourist offices, 696–697 tours, 718 12 hours in, 722 best of, 690–691 cafes, 710–711 cellphones, 699 culture tips, 697 currency, 699 eating, 707–711 embassies, 699–700 emergencies, 700 festivals, 719–720 free and easy activities, 719 gay nightlife, 716 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 700 laundry, 700 luggage storage, 700 neighborhoods (arrondisse- (Barcelona), 141 (Barcelona), 141 671 817–818 389 Parc André Citroen (Paris), 726 Parc André Citroen (Paris), Parc d’Atraccions Tibidabo Parc de Bercy (Paris), 726 Parc de la Ciutadella Parc Güell (Barcelona), 139 Parco della Floridiana (Naples), Parco della Musica (Rome), Parco delle Cascine (Florence), Parco Forlanini (Milan), 626 Parco Sempione (Milan), 626 Parioli (Rome), 794 Paris, 689–730 Papeneiland (Amsterdam), 75 Papeneiland (Amsterdam), Paradiso (Amsterdam), 75–76 Paradox (Amsterdam), 63 (Copenhagen), 235 414 725 912–913 828–829 192–193 603–604 (Sintra), 540 (Lisbon), 535 (Edinburgh), 352 571 (Amsterdam), 79 Panini and Web (Nice), 400 Panorama Bar (Berlin), 163 Panoramas, best, 8 Panormos (Mykonos), 464 Pantheon (Rome), 822 Palazzo Pitti (Florence), 388 Palazzo Reale (Naples), 668 Palazzo Vecchio (Florence), 381 Pallas Theater (Athens), 113 Pampelonne, 409, 410 PAN Club and Café P&O Ferries, 37 Palais du Luxembourg (Paris), Palais Princier (Monaco), 416 The Palatine (Rome), 832 Palazzo Ducale (Venice), Palazzo Nuovo (Rome), Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, Palacio Gaviría (Madrid), Palácio Nacional de Pena Palácio Nacional de Sintra, 540 Palacio Real (Madrid), 606 Palais des Festivals (Cannes), Paddington (London), 552 Padrao dos Descobrimentos Padua, 920–921 Pakleni Otoci, 257 Palác Akropolis (Prague), 754 Palace of Holyroodhouse Oxford/Cambridge Boat Race, P Pacha (Madrid), 603 Pachá (Ibiza), 2, 475–476 Package tours, 39 Packing tips, 21 Out on the Liffey (Dublin), 292 Out on the Liffey Over Het IJ Festival Overstock (Barcelona), 143 Oxegen (Dublin), 294 Oxfam (Dublin), 304 The Oxford (Nice), 405 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 995 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 996

996 Index Piazza Santa Trinità (Florence), POSITIVeinfach Café & Cocktail Prague Symphony Orchestra in 360–361 Bar (Interlaken), 486 the Municipal House, 757 Piazza Stazione (Padua), Posto Italiano (Rome), 835 Prater Ferris Wheel (Vienna), 920–921 Potsdamer Platz (Berlin), 149 944 Piazza Tasso (Sorrento), 684 Potterow (Edinburgh), 350 Praterverband (the Prater; Piazza Venezia (Rome), 824 Powerscourt Townhouse Vienna), 943–944 Piccadilly Circus (London), 553 Centre (Dublin), 303 The Prati (Rome), 793 Piccadilly Sound (Florence), 391 Praça de Touros de Lisboa Pravda (Reykjavík), 2, 780 Picnic fare, 7 (Lisbon), 537 Prescription medications, 31 Pierro’s (Mykonos), 463 Prague, 732–769 Pride London (London), 572 Pile Gate (Dubrovnik), 329 best of, 733 Prince’s Palace (Monaco), 416 Pinacoteca (the Vatican), 827 bookstores, 757–758 Princes Square (Glasgow), 439 Pinakothek der Moderne cafes, 749–750 Prinzknecht (Berlin), 163 (Munich), 649 cellphones, 740 Privilege (Ibiza), 476 Pincio (Rome), 820 culture tips, 738–739 Project: Dublin, 292 Pingvellir (Iceland), 785–786 currency, 740 The Proms (London), 572 Pink Moon (Rome), 835 eating, 747–750 Protestant Cemetery (Rome), Pizzafest (Naples), 667 embassies, 741 825 Plaça Catalunya (Barcelona), emergencies, 741 Prototype (Rome), 835 140 festivals, 759–760 Puerta del Sol (Madrid), 589 Place du Jeu de Balle (Brussels), free and easy activities, 759 Puffin Island, 784 189, 190 gay bars and clubs, 753–754 Pulalli (Capri), 675–676 Plage de la Bouillabaisse getting to and around, Pulp Bar (Bath), 582 (St-Tropez), 410 733–736 Punta della Dogana area Plage de Larvotto (Monaco), 416 hanging out, 759 (Venice), 919 Planet Out (Edinburgh), 349 laundry, 741 Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus Playa d’en Bossa (Ibiza), 468 luggage storage, 741 (Copenhagen), 236 Plaza de Toros Real Maestranza movie theaters, 757 (Seville), 859 neighborhoods, 736–737 INDEX Ploce Gate (Dubrovnik), 329 partying, 750 Q Poble Espanyol (Barcelona), performing arts, 755–757 Q Jazz Bar (Istanbul), 507 138–139 pharmacies, 742 The Quays (Galway), 313 P O’Flaherty’s (Seville), 853 playing outside, 763–764 The Queen Adelaide (London), The Point Depot (Dublin), 293 post offices, 741 577 Polé Polé (Antwerp), 97 recommended books, movies, Queen Bar (Istanbul), 508 Pollok Country Park (Glasgow), and music, 739–740 Queen Elisabeth Concert Hall 438 restrooms, 742 (Antwerp), 97 Pompeii, 670 safety, 742 Queens (Lisbon), 531 Po Na Na (Edinburgh), 348 shopping, 764–766 Queen’s Day (Amsterdam), 78 Pond Bar (Edinburgh), 348 sightseeing, 758–763 Queen’s Hall (Edinburgh), 349 P1 (Munich), 646 sleeping, 743–747 Quintas de Regaleiga (Sintra), Ponte di Rialto (Venice), starting a conversation with 540 913–914 a local, 736 The Quirinale (Rome), 793, 832 Ponte Vecchio (Florence), taxis, 734, 736 381–382 telephone tips, 742 Pop Boutique (London), 579 tipping, 742 R Populart (Madrid), 605 tourist offices, 737–738 Radnice (Town Hall; Cesky Porta Portese (Rome), 836 12 hours in, 763 Krumlov), 768 Portas Largas (Lisbon), 531 university scene, 761 Radost/FX (Prague), 752, 765 The Porterhouse (Dublin), 5 websites, 738 Rag Republic (Munich), 652 Portobello Market (London), 9, Prague Autumn, 760 Raid Bar (Paris), 716 552, 580 Prague Castle, 760 Rail Europe, 41–42 Portobello Road (London), 580 Prague House of Photography Rail passes, 37, 40–42 Poseidon (near Forio), 688 (Prague), 756 Rastoni (Santorini), 450 Poseidon’s Temple (Athens), Prague Spring Festival, 759 Ravello, 686 116–117 Prague State Opera House, 757 INDEX 997 Index and music, 795–796 a local, 796 information, 794 789–791 797–798 828–830 playing outside, 832–834 post offices, 798 recommended books, movies, safety, 798 seven hills of, 832 shopping, 834–836 sightseeing, 818–831 sleeping, 799–806 starting a conversation with taxis, 791 tipping, 799 tourist offices and 12 hours in, 830 university scene, 831 websites, 794–795 getting to and around, getting to and Internet/Wi-Fi access, laundry, 798 luggage storage, 798 museums and galleries, neighborhoods, 792–794 partying, 812–817 performing arts, 817–818 pizzerias, 810–811 433 (Antwerp), 96–97 (Edinburgh), 351 (Antwerp), 98 (London), 569 Castle; Copenhagen), 239 348–349 242 (London), 575 (London), 571 568 Royal Concert Hall (Glasgow), Royal Flanders Ballet Royal Highland Show Royal Museum of Fine Arts Royal National Theatre Rookies (Amsterdam), 63 Roosevelt Tér (Budapest), 217 Rosenborg Slot (Rosenborg Rose Street (Edinburgh), Roskilde, 242–243 Roskilde Domkirke (Cathedral), Roxy (Prague), 751, 753 Royal Academy of Arts Royal Air Force Museum Royal Albert Hall (London), 4, a local, 773 797 tourist offices, 772–773 12 hours in, 783 websites, 773 sleeping, 775–778 starting a conversation with gelaterias, 808 best of, 788 cafes, 812 culture tips, 795 currency, 796–797 eating, 806–812 embassies and consulates, emergencies, 797 festivals, 818 free and easy activities, 820 gay nightlife, 816–817 (Vienna), 945–946 914–915 434 783–784 782 Festival, 783 Photography, 782, 784 919 Rodgers Travel, 50 Roísín Dubh (Galway), 314 Rokerij (Amsterdam), 63 Rolling Stone (Milan), 623 Rolling Venice pass, 911 Roman Forum (Rome), 821 Rome, 787–836 Ricordi (Rome), 836 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), 81 The Ringstrassen Galleries Rí-Rá (Dublin), 291 Rise (London), 572 Riva degli Schiavoni (Venice), River strolls, 10 Road Records (Dublin), 297 Robbie Burns Night (Glasgow), Robot (Munich), 652–653 Rock Café (Prague), 754–755 Rock climbing, Paris, 726–727 Rock en Seine (Paris), 720 Rockhouse (Salzburg), 949 Reykjavík Art Museum, 782, Reykjavík Dance Festival, 782 Reykjavík Gay Pride Festival, Reykjavík International Film Reykjavík Jazz Festival, 782 Reykjavík Museum of Rialto Bridge (Venice), 913–914, Rialto Market (Venice), 920 Ribeira Nova (Lisbon), 539 and music, 774 771–772 playing outside, 784–785 recommended books, movies, road trips, 785–786 shopping, 785 sightseeing, 781–784 free and easy activities, 782 gay bars, 781 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 775 neighborhoods, 772 partying, 779–781 performing arts, 781 best of, 771 cellphones, 774 culture tips, 773 eating, 778–779 embassies, 774 emergencies, 775 best cheap, 5–7 tips on, 28 (Salzburg), 950 416 (Museum Het Rembrandthuis; Amsterdam), 80–81 Festival (Paris), 720 76 380 169–170 538–539 330 Revelin Fort (Dubrovnik), 329 Rex (Reykjavík), 780 Reykjavík, 770–786 Residents, The, 239 Residenz (Munich), 649 Residenzgalerie Salzburg, 950 Residenz State Rooms Restaurants, 23 Relève de la Garde (Monaco), Rembrandt, 80–81 Rembrandt House Museum Rendez-Vous Electroniques Rent a Skate (Amsterdam), 82 Red-Light District (Amsterdam), Regata Storica (Venice), 911 Regatta on the Arno (Florence), Regent’s Park (London), 577 Reichstag (Bundestag; Berlin), Reina (Istanbul), 506 Raveman Records (Lisbon), Raveman Records Razzmatazz (Barcelona), 3, 135 Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik), Red & Blue (Antwerp), 95–96 Red Garter (Florence), 377 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 997 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 998

998 Index Royal Palace (Stockholm), 875 St. Stephen’s Day (Budapest), partying, 450 Royal Scottish Academy of 211 playing outside, 452–453 Music and Drama (Glasgow), St-Tropez, 406–410 post office, 447 433 St. Vitus Cathedral (Cesky shopping, 453 Roy d’Espagne (Brussels), 184 Krumlov), 768 sightseeing, 451 Rubens, Peter Paul, 98–99 Salamanca (Madrid), 590 sleeping, 447–449 Rubenshuis (Rubens’s House; Salotto 42 (Rome), 815 taxis, 445 Antwerp), 98–99 Salvatian Army (London), 579 tourist offices, 446 Rust (Copenhagen), 235 Salvation (Barcelona), 136 websites, 446 Ruta del Modernisme Salzburg, 946–950 Sanz Sans (Paris), 714 (Barcelona), 138, 140 Salzburg Festival, 949 Sao Jorge Movie Theater Ryanair, 46 San Antonio (Ibiza), 467 (Lisbon), 532–533 San Clemente (Rome), 831 Sa Penya (Ibiza), 467–468 Sandhamn, 879 Saponeria (Rome), 817 S San Gennaro Festival (Naples), SATH (Society for Accessible Saatchi Gallery (London),The, 575 666 Travel & Hospitality), 49 Safety tips, 32–33 San Isidro Festival (Madrid), Sauna Marco (Prague), 754 Sagrada Familia (Barcelona), 606 Scanrail Pass, 223 139, 140 San Lorenzo (Florence), 360, Schauspielhaus (Zurich), 963 Sagrestia Nuova (Florence), 383 384 Schipol Airport (Amsterdam), Sailing, Split, 254 San Lorenzo street market 56–57 St. Blaise, Church of (Florence), 9 Schloss Charlottenburg (Berlin), (Dubrovnik), 329 San Michele (Venice), 907 166 St. James’s (London), 553 San Polo (Venice), 887 Schönbrunn Palace (Vienna), St. James’s Park (London), 577 San Rafael (Ibiza), 468 940–941 St. John (Dubrovnik), 329 Santa Cecilia (Rome), 831 Schwabing (Munich), 633 St. Marco, Cathedral of Santa Croce (Florence), 360, Scottish National Gallery of (Korcula), 264 384–385 Modern Art (Edinburgh), 353 St. Mark’s Basilica (Venice), 914 Santa Croce (Venice), 887 Scuba diving INDEX St. Michan’s Church (Dublin), Santa Eularia (Ibiza), 468 Hvar, 258 298 Santa Gertrudis (Ibiza), 468 Ibiza, 478 St. Nicholas, Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone (Rome), Mykonos, 464 (Prague), 760–761 824 Nice, 406 St. Nicholas’ Collegiate Church Santa Maria della Salute Split, 254 (Galway), 316–317 (Venice), 916 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Saint Nicholas’ Day (Prague), Santa Maria delle Grazie/The (Venice), 918 760 Last Supper (Milan), 625–626 Sé (Cathedral; Lisbon), 535 St. Patrick’s Dublin Festival, 293 Santa Maria del Popolo (Rome), Seasons, 12, 13, 16–17 St. Paul’s Cathedral (London), 824 Secession Building (Vienna), 941 572 Santa Maria in Trastevere The Secret Book and Record St. Peter Castle (Bodrum), 516 (Rome), 831 Store (Dublin), 297 St. Peter’s Basilica (the Santa Maria Maggiore (Rome), Sefahathane Bar (Istanbul), 507 Vatican), 826 831 The Seine (Paris), 722 St. Peter’s Square (the Vatican), Santa Maria Novella (Florence), Selfridges (London), 579 825–826 359–360, 385 Semana Santa (Seville), 855 St. Peter’s tomb (the Vatican), Sant’Ambrogio (Florence), 390 Senso Unico (Venice), 906 826 Sant Joan (Barcelona), 137 Serpentine Column (Istanbul), St. Savior Church (Dubrovnik), Sant Jordí (Barcelona), 137 509 330 Santorini, 442–453 Seville, 837–860 St. Stephan’s Cathedral eating, 449–450 best of, 838–839 (Vienna), 940 emergencies, 446–447 cellphones, 843 St. Stephen’s Basilica getting to and around, consulates, 843 (Budapest), 214–215 442–445 culture tips, 842 St. Stephen’s Cathedral Internet/Wi-Fi access, 447 currency, 843 (Hvar), 257 laundry, 447 eating, 849–851 neighborhoods, 445–446 emergencies, 843 INDEX 999 Index sto (Old Town; ê 862–863 free and easy activities, 875 gay bars, 873 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 865 laundry, 865–866 luggage storage, 866 neighborhoods, 863–864 partying, 872–873 performing arts, 874 best of, 862 cellphones, 865 culture tips, 864–865 eating, 870–871 emergencies, 865 festivals, 874–875 Franchi (Florence), 389 824 649–650 (London), 571 577 907 Prague), 737 439 (Amsterdam), 81 (London), 580 Stadhuis (Bruges), 193 Stadio Comunale Artemio Stadio dei Marmi (Rome), 833 Stadio Olimpico (Rome), 833 Stadium of Domitian (Rome), Stadsmuseum (Stockholm), 876 Stadsschouwburg (Antwerp), 97 Stadt Café (Munich), 644 Stadtmuseum (Munich), StadtPark (Vienna), 944 The Stand (Edinburgh), 349 The Stand (Glasgow), 433 Staré M Spitalfields (London), 580–581 Spitalfields (London), Spitalfields Festival Fringe Split, 246–254 Split Summer Festival, 246 330 Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik), Sprite Urban Games (London), Square (Bath), 583 Squero di San Trovaso (Venice), Staandard (Antwerp), 100 Starry Starry Night (Glasgow), STA Travel, 39, 48 Statue Park (Budapest), 213 Stedelijk Museum CS Steffl (Vienna), 946 Steinberg and Tolkien Stoa of Attalos (Athens), 116 Stockholm, 861–880 websites, 52 Barcelona, 136 Brussels, 189–190 Florence, 389 Istanbul, 512 Lisbon, 537 London, 571, 578 Milan, 627 Munich, 651 Rome, 833 Dublin, 301 Lisbon, 538 Munich, 651 Reykjavík, 784 Vienna, 944 booking online, 27 tips on, 26–29 724 (London), 579 551–552 378–379 Spagna; Rome), 792, 825, 834 (Dublin), 293 (Stockholm), 878 Vatican), 827–828 Spiritual Café (Barcelona), 133 Soma Store (Munich), 653 Sónar (Barcelona), 137 Sorbonne, College de (Paris), Sorrento, 682–685 Sortie (Istanbul), 506 Soundgarden (Amsterdam), 76 Sounds of the Universe South Bank (London), 555 South Kensington (London), Space (Ibiza), 476 Space Electronic (Florence), Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Speakers Corner (London), 577 SLM (Stockholm), 873 Slovansky ostrov (Prague), 759 S’move Light Bar (Naples), 666 Soccer (football) Société Lutèce (Rome), 815 Soho (London), 553 Sole (Rome), 836 The Skeff (Galway), 313 Skiing Skinny Bridge (Amsterdam), 78 Sky Bar (Vienna), 936 Sleeping, 12, 23 Skansen (Stockholm), 876 Skärholmen Shopping Center Skateboarding The Sistine Chapel (the The Sistine Chapel Six Nations Rugby Tournament a local, 838 and music, 842 839–840 tourist offices, 841 12 hours in, 857 university scene, 857–858 websites, 841–842 restrooms, 844 safety, 844 shopping, 858–860 sightseeing, 855–858 sleeping, 844–848 starting a conversation with telephone tips, 844 tipping, 844 luggage storage, 843 neighborhoods, 840–841 partying, 851–853 performing arts, 853–855 pharmacies, 843 playing outside, 858 post offices, 843 recommended books, movies, festivals, 855 free and easy activities, 856 gay bars, 853 getting to and around, Internet/Wi-Fi access, 843 laundry, 843 (London), 575 Theatre (Galway), 315 942 (London), 569 (London), 567 (Meiringen), 489 (Paris), 730 Sipan, 332 Sir John Soane’s Museum Sirkeci (Istanbul), 494 Siroco (Madrid), 605 Sidetrack (Stockholm), 873 Sigmund Freud Haus (Vienna), Single travelers, 48 Sinksenfoor (Antwerp), 97 Sinners (Amsterdam), 76 Sintra, 539–540 Sheperds Bush Empire Sherlock Holmes Museum Shooters Bar (Ios), 458–459 Shoulder seasons, 16 Shrove Tuesday (London), 570 Siamsa, The Galway Folk Sexmuseum Amsterdam, 81 Shakespeare & Company Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 999 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 1000

1000 Index Stockholm (Cont.) T Theater in der Josefstadt picnic fare, 870 Tabasco (Florence), 379 (Vienna), 938 playing outside, 877–878 Taboo Records (Antwerp), 100 Théâtre de la Ville (Paris), 717 post office, 866 Tacheles (Berlin), 163 Théâtre des Champs-Elysées recommended books, movies, Tahe Audley (London), 567 (Paris), 717 and music, 865 Taiza (Prague), 765 Théâtre Toone VII (Brussels), shopping, 878 Taksim, 495 185 sightseeing, 874 Tanec Praha (Prague), 759 Thermal pools, Reykjavík, 784 sleeping, 866–870 Tantra (Cannes), 414 Thesion (Temple of Hephaistos starting a conversation with Tantra (London), 566 and Athena; Athens), 116 a local, 864 Tate Britain (London), 575–576 Thieves’ Market (Lisbon), 539 tipping, 866 Tate Modern (London), 576 Thiossan (Barcelona), 135 tourist offices, 864 Tchai Ovna (Glasgow), 430 Thomas Cook European 12 hours in, 877 Tea Room Luthi (Interlaken), Timetable, 42 university scene, 877 488 Thor (Nice), 405 websites, 864 Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres), 3D.Com (Nice), 400 Stockholm Cultural Festival, 874 143 3W Kafé (Paris), 716 Stockholm Jazz Festival, 874 Teatro Comunale di Firenze Thun, Lake, 489–490 Stockholm Pride, 874 (Florence), 380 Thunersee (Lake Thun), Stohrer (Paris), 710–711 Teatro da Trinidade (Lisbon), 489–490 The Strand (London), 554 533 Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum Stroget (Copenhagen), 225 Teatro degli Arcimboldi (Milan), (Madrid), 607–608 Stromovka Park (Prague), 764 624 Tibidabo, Mount (Barcelona), Stúdentakjallarinn (Reykjavík), Teatro de la Maestranza 141 780 (Seville), 855 Tiergarten (Berlin), 149, 170 Studenterhuset (Copenhagen), Teatro della Pergola (Florence), Tigh Neachtain (Galway), 313 236 380 Time Out magazine (London), Sture Compagniet (Stockholm), Teatro dell’Opera (Rome), 818 570 872 Teatro Nacional de Sao Carlos Time zones, 33 INDEX The Sub Club (Glasgow), 431 (Lisbon), 533 Tinderbox Espresso Emporium Sultanahmet (Istanbul), 494 Teatro Olimpico (Rome), 818 (Glasgow), 431 Summer of Antwerp, 97 Teatro Pereyra (Ibiza), 475 Tingl Tangl (Prague), 754 Sunset Café (Ibiza), 474 Teatro Romano (Fiesole), 389 Tipping Supperclub (Rome), 7 Teatro Scribe (Florence), 377 Amsterdam, 66 Surfing, 10 Teatro Verdi (Florence), 380 Antwerp, 91 Galway, 318 Telephones, 34–35 Athens, 107 Munich, 651 Temple Bar Book Market Barcelona, 126 S.V. Glenlee, the Tall Ship at (Dublin), 305 Berlin, 152 Glasgow Harbour, 437 Temple Bar Food Market Brussels, 180 Swimming. See also Beaches (Dublin), 305 Budapest, 201 Dublin, 301 Temple Bar Gallery and Studios Copenhagen, 228 Munich, 651–652 (Dublin), 298 Dublin, 276 Stockholm, 878 Temple Bar Music Centre Dubrovnik, 324 Vienna, 945 (Dublin), 290 Edinburgh, 340 Zurich, 967 Temple of the Olympian Zeus The French Riviera, 398 Swingcafe (Antwerp), 96 (Athens), 116 Glasgow, 423 Swiss National Museum Tenax (Florence), 379 Istanbul, 498 (Zurich), 964 Terrasse (Zurich), 962 Lisbon, 524 Sword Dance Festival, 246 Terror Háza (House of Terror; London, 559 Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Budapest), 213 Naples, 660 Bridge; Budapest), 213 Testaccio (Rome), nightlife, 817 Paris, 701 Szechnyi Baths & Thermal Pools Teviot (Edinburgh), 350 Prague, 742 (Budapest), 218 Texas Lone Star Saloon Rome, 799 Szentendre, 219 (Seville), 853 Seville, 844 Szépmúvészeti Múzeum Texxt (Munich), 653 Stockholm, 866 (Budapest), 213 Venice, 889 INDEX 1001 Index 907 883–885 911 and music, 888 getting to and around, gondolas, 904–905 Internet/Wi-Fi access, 889 laundry, 889 local dialect, 886 luggage storage, 889 money-saving passes, 888, partying, 902–906 performing arts, 906–907 picnics, 919 playing outside, 918 post office, 889 recommended books, movies, road trip, 920 shopping, 920 sightseeing, 907–918 sinking problem, 901 sleeping, 890–897 tipping, 889 tourist offices, 887 12 hours in, 913 university scene, 918 websites, 887–888 best of, 882 cellphones, 888 culture tips, 888 districts, 887 eating, 897–902 emergencies, 889 festivals, 911 free and easy activities, (London), 576–577 622–623 Budapest), 215 Festival, 911 Via Veneto (Rome), 793 Vicar Street (Dublin), 290 Victoria (London), 554 Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria Café (Milan), Vidám Park (Amusement Park; Venice International Film Venue (Edinburgh), 348 Versailles, 730–731 Verso (Antwerp), 100 Vesterbro (Copenhagen), 226 Via Sannio (Rome), 836 Velryba (Prague), 756 Velryba (Prague), Velvet (Naples), 666 Veneranda (Hvar), 257 Venice, 881–921 ), 261 c (Prague), 751 * elenyho oka (Prague), ní Palace–National r z (Universität Wien), 942 487 751 (Lisbon), 536 (Brussels), 189 (Amsterdam), 81 Stockholm), 877 878 (Stockholm), 878 539 and Contemporary Art (Prague), 762–763 Gallery Collection of Modern University of Vienna University of Zurich, 965 Unterseen church (Interlaken), Uppsala, 879–880 Uppsala Domkyrka, 880 Uppsala University, 880 Usher Hall (Edinburgh), 349 U Vyst Universidade de Lisboa Universiteit Antwerp, 98 Université Libre de Bruxelles University College Dublin, 297 576 University College London, University of Bologna, 393 University of Copenhagen, 240 University of Dubrovnik, 331 University of Milan, 626 University of Naples, 670 University of Padua, 920 University of Prague, 761 University of Seville, 857 University of Venice, 918 Van Gogh Museum Varadero Bar Lounge (Bra Vasamuseet (Vasa Museum; Vasholm, 879 Vasterlanggatan (Stockholm), Vastermalmgsgallerian The Vatican, 793–794, 825–828 Vatican grottoes, 826 Vatican Museums, 827 The Vault (Glasgow), 433 Vega (Copenhagen), 235 Veletr V Vacation Together, 39 Valentim de Carvalho (Lisbon), U medvídk U Kotvy (Prague), 761 U Kotvy (Prague), Ultra (Florence), 392 U Malého Glena (Prague), 755 ula), 265 c accommodations, 279 Vienna, 929 Zurich, 957 185 31 Day Parade (London), 572 916 315–316 168 Belém; Lisbon), 535 225, 238 (Amsterdam), 77 U Uetliberg (Zurich), 965 Uffizi (Florence), 387 UGC de Brouckère (Brussels), Trinity College (Dublin), 271, 297 Trinity College (Rome), 814 Tropical Bar (Santorini), 3, 450 Trubadur (Dubrovnik), 328 Tulle (Dublin), 305 22 (Reykjavík), 780 Travel Assistance International, Travel Bar (Barcelona), 135 Travel CUTS, 48 Traveler’s checks, 24 Travel Guard International, 45 Trevi Fountain (Rome), 825 Triburbana (Madrid), 610 Tricker’s (Bath), 583–584 Town Treasury (Kor Trafalgar, 40 Trafalgar Weekend/Trafalgar Train travel, 37, 40–44, 973 Transportation, websites, 53 Trash (Berlin), 171 Trastevere (Rome), 792–793 Torre Tavira (Cádiz), 860 Tour de France (Paris), 719 Tour Eiffel (Paris), 722–723 Tourist offices, 968–970 Tours, best offbeat, 9 Tower of London, 573 Town Hall Theatre (Galway), Tom’s Bar (Berlin), 163 Topkapi Palace (Istanbul), 510 Topography of Terror (Berlin), Top Shop (London), 580 Torino@Notte (Venice), 906 Torre de Belém (Tower of Torre dell’Orologio (Venice), Tivoli (Dublin), 292 Tivoli Gardens (Copenhagen), TODINE/TONIGHT 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 1001 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 1002

1002 Index Vienna, 922–950 Visas, 19 Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna), best of, 922–923 Visegrad, 219 938 cafes, 935 Vittoriano (Rome), 820, 824 Wi-Fi access, 33–34 cellphones, 928 Vivoli (Florence), 5 Wild at Heart (Berlin), 163 culture tips, 927 Vlaamse Opera (Antwerp), 96 The Willow Tea Rooms currency, 928 Vltava River (Prague), 764 (Glasgow), 430 eating, 934–935 Voga Longa (Venice), 911 Wimbledon (London), 571, 578 embassies, 928–929 Volcano Show (Reykjavík), 781 Windsurfing emergencies, 929 Volksgarten (Vienna), 937 Brac, 262 festivals, 939 Vondelpark (Amsterdam), Galway, 318 gay scene, 937 81–82 Wini (Amsterdam), 84 getting to and around, Voodoo Lounge (Dublin), 289 Wins Bar/Café (Budapest), 210 923–925 Vrije Universiteit Brussel, 189 Wintergarten Varieté (Berlin), Internet/Wi-Fi access, 929 Vroni’s Wine Bar (Glasgow), 431 164–165 laundry, 929 Vrouwenhuis (Amsterdam), 76 Winter Lights Festival neighborhoods, 925–927 Vysehrad (Prague), 761–762 (Reykjavík), 782 partying, 935–937 Wireless Festival (London), 577 performing arts, 937–938 Women travelers, 50 post offices, 929 W Words’Worth (Munich), 653 recommended books, music, Wake Up! London, 4 Work and volunteer programs, and movies, 927–928 Waldwirtschaft Grosshesselohe 51 restrooms, 929 (Munich), 645 World Pipe Band road trip, 946–950 Walpurgis Eve, 862, 880 Championships (Glasgow), safety, 929 Watch This Space (London), 569 434 shopping, 945 Water bikes, Amsterdam, 82 sightseeing, 938–942 Waterlooplein Flea Market sleeping, 929–934 (Amsterdam), 84 X starting a conversation with Watersports. See also specific X-Tra Hotel Limmat (Zurich), a local, 927 sports 5, 958 INDEX tipping, 929 best, 10 tourist offices, 927 Brac, 262 12 hours in, 943 Dublin, 303 Y university scene, 942 Glasgow, 438 Yab Yum (Florence), 379 Vienna Boys Choir, 4, 938 Interlaken, 487 Yacht Club (Mykonos), 463 Vienna Card, 924 Wax (Paris), 714–715 Yerebatan Cistern (Istanbul), Vienna Jazz Festival, 939 WE (Amsterdam), 84 509–510 Vienna Modern, 939 Weather, 16–17 Vienna’s English Theatre, 938 Websites, 52–53 Vienna Woods, 944 Weihenstephan Brewery, Viking Diving Center (Hvar), 258 Z Freising, 653–654 ZAM–Zentrum für Viking Ship Museum Wembley Arena (London), 567 (Vikingeskibshallen; Aubergewöhnliche Museen Westend City Center (Munich), 650 Copenhagen), 243 (Budapest), 220 Viktualienmarkt (Munich), 652 Zanzibar (Dublin), 289 Westminster (London), 554 Zebra (Brussels), 183 Vilda Vanadis (Stockholm), 878 Westminster Abbey (London), Villa Borghese (Rome), 833–834 Zelezné dvere (Prague), 751 572 Zeneakadémia (Ferenc Liszt Villa Celimontana (Rome), 834 Whale-watching, Reykjavík, 9, Villa Cimbrone (Ravello), 686 Academy of Music; 771, 784–785 Budapest), 216–217 Villa d’Este (Paris), 718 Whelan’s (Dublin), 290–291 Villa Doria Pamphilj (Rome), Zhivago Records (Galway), 319 Where the Monkey Sleeps Zipper (Amsterdam), 84–85 834 (Glasgow), 430 The Village (Dublin), 290 Zlatni Rat, 258 Whitechapel Art Gallery Zomer van Antwerpen Villa Jovis (Capri), 676–677 (London), 571 Villa Rufolo (Ravello), 686 (Antwerp), 97 The White Horse (London), 567 Zoo Antwerpen (Antwerp), 99 Vineria Reggio (Rome), 814–815 Wieden (Vienna), 926 Virgin Express, 46 ZooBar (Rome), 817 INDEX 1003 Index a local, 954 shopping, 967 sightseeing, 963–965 sleeping, 957–958 starting a conversation with telephone tips, 957 tipping, 957 12 hours in, 965 university scene, 964–965 Zurich, Lake, 965 Zurich Street Parade, 963 Züri Fäscht (Zurich), 963 952–953 and music, 955 laundry, 956 luggage storage, 956 neighborhoods, 954 partying, 961–963 performing arts, 963 pharmacies, 956 playing outside, 965–967 post office, 956 recommended books, movie, festivals, 963–964 gay bars, 962–963 getting to and around, banks, 956 best of, 952 consulates, 956 culture tips, 955 currency, 956 eating, 960–961 emergencies, 956 Berlin, 165, 170 Budapest, 215 965–966 Zoologischer Garten (Zurich), Zoologischer Garten Zoos Zrce beach (Pag), 262 Zurich, 951–967 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 1003 PM Page 5:51 10/31/06 1 bindex.qxp:Layout 41_584995 41_584995 bindex.qxp:Layout 1 10/31/06 5:51 PM Page 1004

NOTES