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82 , Colosseum, © belenox - iStock - Getty Images

Latium is an area worth getting to know, beaches, the lovely cli's, all along the a land rich in blends of art, culture and coastline, from beach to the nature, the crossroads of Mediterranean white sand of with its famous civilization and of Etruscan, Sabine, Sam- dunes, to the clear waters of San Felice al nite, Campanian and Latin peoples. The Circeo and , an authentic region probably got its name from the Tyrrhenian fishing village, down to Gae- , whose most recent history min- ta, with its split mountain overhanging gles with that of Rome and the Pontifical the sea. There are very charming under- State, the Terra del Lavoro and the King- water itineraries along the lovely seabeds dom of the Two Sicilies. A compound of the , to underwater memory that only a few dozen years ago caves, fields of posidonia, lobsters and recovered its role as a unique tourist at- even submerged shipwrecks. traction, together with that of the The counterpoint to the sea are the city. Nowadays the region stands out beautiful mountains, rich in avifauna and with its many charms, from spas to spec- biodiversity, which mark out the region’s tacular lakes, from gentle hilly scenery to ridge and follow its outline from the bor- charming beaches, from ders of Tuscany to , from the and art to the great wealth of traditions. Rieti salt road to the National Latium is a wonderland, the essence of Park. Then there are the natural beauty, historic remains and a and della Duchessa, the magical Simbru- variety of food and wine related to the ini mountains, the heart of Latium, the soil and the simplicity and wholesome- Ausoni mountains and the Aurunci, ness of the crops. which look down on the beauty of the There are many archaeological sites all coast beneath and seem to accompany over the area, from the Etruscan remains the area towards the scents and land- in Tuscania and Tarquinia, to the necrop- scapes of the Mediterranean. In fact olis in , now UNESCO sites, as Latium is a great place for people that well as Hadrian’s Villa and the Villa d’Este want to enjoy nature routes among the in Tivoli. Other must-sees are the ar- many protected nature areas. There are chaeological sites of the Temple of Jupi- lakes, countryside, seas and mountains ter Amur in , the Roman paved just outside Rome and near the count- roads in Arpino, and the Roman colony less mediaeval villages. Hiking paths, wa- of old . Mediaeval villages and terways, woods and beech groves are polygonal walls are another feature of the scene of often pristine natural envi- the area: to mention but a few, there is ronments. The Regional Natural Parks Viterbo with its pilgrims’ district and the and Protected Oases o'er visitors a wide of the Popes, Anagni with the Pal- range of itineraries and the Roads of the ace of Boniface VII and the crypt of the Parks allow you to immerse yourself in Cathedral with its fine frescoes, Fumone the nature of Etruscan Latium or to reach with its mediaeval village, Civita di Bag- Umbria along Roman roads, passing ne- noregio, the wonderful “dying city”, Cal- cropolises, waterfalls and caves. Or you cata and Nifa, true icons of beauty, and can reach the Latium side of the Abruz- oases of ruins and romantic parks that zo-Monti della Laga Natural Park with its enchant the visitor and leave indelible hundreds of equipped trails, practicable memories. even when there is snow, where there is Culture and wellness and spas are an- still a chance of seeing bears, wolves, other of Latium’s strongpoints: thermal chamois and even golden eagles. In waters flow through natural landscapes southern Latium, lovers of the moun- and historic monuments, from the tains and the sea can travel through the dei Papi in Viterbo to the Terme di Boni- Parco del Circeo along ancient Roman facio in Fiuggi. Then there is the sea, the routes, like the Via Flacca. In this area

83 Civita di Bagnoregio (), © bluejayphoto - iStock - Getty Images you can do free climbing, on prepared Franciscan sanctuaries of the Valle Santa, faces, in Sperlonga, and . An ex- Greco, La Foresta, Poggio Busone and cellent way of getting to know the Fontecolombo, nestling in the greenery Latium area is to hike along the ancient of woods and beech groves. All these pilgrimage routes that have been used routes lead through the Latium area, a for getting to Rome since the Middle real red thread which the traveller can Ages, where pilgrims could venerate the follow to discover wonderful scenery, tombs of Saints Peter and Paul and get a lovely little villages and traditional plenary indulgence. The most important flavours. is the Via Francigena, the road used by This kaleidoscopic area, with its thou- merchants and travellers, carrying ideas, sands of years of tradition, has created art, legends, languages and customs. countless folk traditions, historical reen- The road runs down from the to actments and folk festivals, which have northern Latium, passing through Ac- spread all over the various provinces. We quapendente, where there is a sacellum mention some of the most charming. In with a reproduction of the Holy Sepul- Greccio, in the Rieti province, birthplace chre in Jerusalem, through Bolsena, fa- of the first Christmas Crib in the world, at mous for the miracle of Saint Rose, and Christmas time the Nativity is commem- Capranica, Sutri, Campagnano and For- orated with elegant scenes; there is a mello, and reaches Rome from Monte Carnival in Ronciglione, near Viterbo, Mario, formerly known as Mons Gaudii with horse races, decorated decorated (the mountain of joy) because of the joy floats, and confraternity members wear- felt by travellers when they saw the Eter- ing traditional costumes. In , in nal City. This is the same route that Si- the Latina province, there is a Passion of gerico, Archbishop of Canterbury, trav- Christ procession through the old town, elled on at the end of the 10th century, with very impressive shoulder-borne keeping a diary listing nine stages in our structures. In Acquapendente, in the Vit- region, starting from the border with erbo area, on the second Sunday in May Tuscany. In southern Latium you can the various districts compete in making travel along the Via Francigena del Sud, the marvellous Pugnaloni , huge panels which leads from Rome to the Adriatic with lovely made by assembling coast, from where pilgrims set sail for flower petals and leaves. In June, for the Jerusalem. In the Rieti area we find the feast of Corpus Christi,there are many Cammino di Francesco , a ring linking the infiorate (flower festivals) at which the

84 alla , © WEKWEK - iStock - Getty Images streets are “carpeted” with coloured voured with red pepper, or the classic flower petals. The outstanding one is the “coppiette ” made of spiced and dried centuries-old Infiorata in Genzano, horsemeat. The (roast suck- which has been the symbol of the town ling pig) of Ariccia and the whole Castel- since 1773. Then there are palii, folkloric li Romani area is famous; you can even horse races in which di'erent districts eat it in one of the many outdoor “ fra- compete; famous in Latium is the Palio schette ” taverns, which used to be ven- dei Rioni di Morlupo , in the province of ues for out-of-town excursions. There Rome, a spectacular contest between are many traditional first courses, like teams. bucatini all’Amatriciana , made with Many fairs and festivals are linked with local fat bacon and pecorino cheese local agricultural products. There is the from Amatrice, with its unique flavour, or Chestnut Festival in Soriano nel Cimino , pasta dressed with in October, during which there is a cos- the intestines of a milk-fed calf. Carciofi tume joust between the districts. The romaneschi , Roman , have Grape Festival in Marino, is also very fa- their fairs and festivals in the area, while mous and is mentioned in the song the strawberries of Nemi and Terracina “Nannì”, made famous by Petrolini; the still have the sweet flavour of the fruit of festival dates back to the 16th century long ago. Latium wine production has victory of Lepanto by Marcantonio Col- very ancient origins: the ancient Falerno, onna; as the song says, the historic foun- praised by Columella, Pliny the elder and tain in Marino still spills out rosé wine on Horace, now has famous descendants: the occasion of the festival. from Aleatico di Gradoli to Cesanese del The food and wine tradition in Latium Piglio, Est Est Est di Montefiascone, and has always stayed true to its typical fea- Moscato di Terracina, which tradition tures: strong flavours linked with farming says was used by the witch Circe to be- and shepherding. The meats are deli- witch Ulysses. cious, for instance the PDO sausage of Latium has excellent varieties of ex- , made by hand and fla- tra-virgin oil, like Canino and Sabi-

85 Rome, Spanish Steps, © belenox - iStock - Getty Images no, with the PDO label. You can also in Jazz Spring , in Viterbo, is an travel along a Wine, Oil and Typical Prod- important one but so is the Festival Lirico ucts route, visiting the countryside of the in Casamari in or the Reate Fes- Rieti area, with places dedicated to Saint tival in the Flavio Theatre in Rieti, which Benedict. Latium has plenty of farm- promotes Italian operatic tradition. We house accommodation, from Tuscia to must not forget the Festival Pontino in , from Ciociaria to the Riviera di the Latina province, which supports Ulisse, which o'ers stays in restored young and upcoming artists. These are farmhouses, mills and typical dwellings, just a few suggestions for itineraries of with food coming directly from local discovery and pleasure in a fabulous farms, in environments where traditional area. hospitality lives on. Lovers of antique fairs and markets and artistic crafts will Rome find many shopping opportunities, in old Eternal City, caput mundi , navel of the villages and art cities: to mention but a world, Great Destination… this wonderful few, in the Castelli Romani (Roman hills) city has had many di'erent names in the there is the Mercato dell’Antiquariato e past. But if you want to get to know it Artigianato , Civitavecchia holds an An- you have to walk along its streets and tique Fair very popular with collectors enjoy the sensations as picturesque also; there is a furnishing market in Viter- scenes appear in its alleys. We suggest bo, with restored and vintage furniture; you start from Piazza Venezia, which can in Latina you can visit the Mercatino del- be considered the heart of Rome, with la Memoria, while the main historic vil- the majestic monument dedicated to lages in Ciociaria, Anagni, Ferentino, Victor Emanuel II and the Altar of the Fa- Sora and Veroli have charming Sunday therland on its steps in memory of the markets. unknown soldiers that have no graves. There are many musical festivals and op- Behind it is Piazza del Campidoglio , the era and concert seasons in Latium. square designed by Michelangelo

86 Buonarroti, with three Palazzi around it Piazza Venezia is Via del Corso, a central and the statue of Marcus Aurelius in the street leading to Piazza del Popolo. Im- middle. Here you can visit the Capitol mediately to the left of Piazza Venezia is Museums, where works reflecting the Palazzo Pamphili, while on the city’s artistic and cultural evolution are right it stretches up to the Quirinal hill, on display. site of a palace of the same name where The ramp, with its big stone steps, links the President of the Republic lives. the Campidoglio (Capitol) to Piazza Along Via del Corso, set among the little dell’Aracoeli, from where a staircase streets at the side, we find the Trevi leads up to the church of Santa Maria in Foountain and also Piazza di Spagna Aracoeli , where important artists, includ- from where the 135 Trinita dei Monti ing Pinturicchio and Donatello, worked. steps (also known as the Spanish Steps) Important streets, the names of which lead up to the Pincio hill, with Villa Med- are linked with the city’s history, stretch ici, now the site of the French Academy out from Piazza Venezia. One of these is in Rome, and Villa Borghese, the third Via dei Fori Imperiali. If we walk along the biggest park in the city, where there are ancient Via dell’Imperio, as it was origi- the Tempio di Esculapio, Piazza di nally called, on our right we overlook the and the Borghese Gallery, with its won- Roman Forum, the civic and economic derful collection which adds to the hub of the old Roman city, with the Tra- charm of the place. From the viewpoint jan Markets on the opposite side of the on the Pincio you can look down on Pi- street. In the background, as we move azza del Popolo, on the right side of along the Via, the outline of one of the which stands the of Santa Maria most famous monuments in the world del Popolo , with works by Caravaggio, comes into sight: the Colosseum, the Pinturicchio, Sansovino, Bramante, Raf- symbol of Rome. Beside it stands the faello and Bernini. If we leave Piazza del Arch of Constantine, perhaps the biggest Popolo and go into the adjacent streets, and best preserved in Rome, a real mu- near the Lungotevere we see the Ara Pa- seum of Roman sculpture. Nearby is the cis, one of the most important remains Palatine, one of the seven hills of Rome, of the time of , symbolizing the the hub of the ancient city, with the trac- peace and prosperity achieved by the es of its foundation by Romulus and an- emperor. We pass by Piazza Montecito- cient imperial dwellings; from one side it rio, where parliament sits in the palace of overlooks the Roman Forum and from the same name, and nearby Piazza Col- the other the Circo Massimo. From here, onna, called after the column celebrat- you continue along Viale Aventino to the ing the victories of Marcus Aurelius, and Piramide di Caio Cestio, a funeral monu- we come to the Pantheon, an ancient ment in Egyptian style, and turning right temple dedicated to all the gods, now towards the Lungotevere (Tiberside) you the tomb of two kings of and of Raf- come to the temples of Foro Boario: the faello Sanzio. Nearby is the spectacular Tempio di Portuno and the Tempio di Er- Piazza Navona, with Bernini’s famous cole Vincitore, two of the best preserved Fontana dei Fiumi in its centre. All around buildings of , which stand this area there are important churches in Piazza della Bocca della Verità. and monuments, like the church of Nearby you can visit the church of Santa Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, a baroque mas- Maria in Cosmedin , a masterpiece of Ro- terpiece and mature work by Francesco manesque art, distinguished by its beau- Borromini, the church of San Luigi dei tiful campanile, which has the famous Francesi , with masterpieces by Caravag- carved image known as the Bocca della gio, Palazzo Altemps, seat of the Nation- Verità (mouth of truth) from which the al Roman Museum, which has excellent square gets its name and of which the collections of ancient sculptures, the story goes that it can bite the hand of a church of Santa Maria della Pace , with person telling a lie! Branching out from frescoes by Ra'aello, and the elegant

87 Bramante Cloister. From Piazza Navona of the loveliest squares in the city. Con- we come to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, tinuing towards the Janiculum hill we close to which are the Palazzo della come to the church of San Pietro in Cancelleria and the church of Santa Ma- Montorio , located on one of Rome’s ria in Vallicella , known as Chiesa Nuova, most panoramic points, with Bramante’s striking for its magnificence and its Tempietto , which is its main attraction. splendid interior. From here, across the Starting out again from the Lungara, but Corso, we come to Camp de’ Fiori, site heading right this time, we come to the of Roman nightlife, with the statue of 16th century Villa Farnesina, one of the Giordano Bruno, who was burned at the most stately and harmonious buildings stake here, in the centre; a must-see is of the Renaissance, inside which, among the nearby Piazza Farnese, with the Pala- other things, we can see the “Triumph of zzo of the same name, a splendid Re- Galatea”, the famous by Ra'aello, naissance building, seat of the French and the Loggia di Amore and Psiche by Embassy, with the famous Gallery fres- one of his pupils. Behind the Villa is Pala- coed by Annibale Carracci, and, a little zzo Corsini : with the botanic gardens further on, Palazzo Spada with the per- and the seat of the National Gallery of spective gallery by Francesco Borromini, Ancient Art containing, among others, famous for its optical illusions, one of the works by Beato Angelico, Rubens, Muril- must-see curiosities of 17th century lo and Luca Giordano. Rome. Crossing via Giulia, a memorable Continuing towards Borgo Santo Spirito street that leads the visitor through a we come to the Vatican City, the small- 16th century urban landscape, we come est state in the world, in the heart of the to the Lungotevere (Tiberside) and can capital city, with its splendid Saint Peter’s cross the river over the historic Ponte basilica. Inside the walls are the Vatican Sisto. Museums, a wonderful melting pot of Walking to the left along Via della Lunga- the art and history of all ages and all ra we approach the basilica of Santa Ma- places, with works of immense historical ria in Trastevere , with the distinctive mo- and artistic value: must-sees are the Raf- saics on its façade, which overlooks one faello Rooms, the maps in the Galleria

Gardens of Ninfa (Province of Latina), © aizram18 - iStock - Getty Images

88 delle Carte Geografiche and the famous visit the basilica of San Paolo Fuori Mura , Sistine Chapel, frescoed by Michelange- the second biggest after Saint Peter’s, we lo. Travelling along the Via della Concili- go outside the old town centre and al- azione toward the Lungotevere we most reach a newer district than the come to Castel Sant’Angelo, an ancient Rome we have seen so far, the EUR, de- fortress, altered several times during the signed during the nineteen thirties. Middle Ages and the Renaissance, from Among the various alternative routes are where there is a lovely view all around. the charming itinerary of the Christian The other three patriarchal , , originally burial places and Saint John Lateran, Saint Mary Major and then places of refuge where Mass was Saint Paul Outside the Walls, are also part celebrated when Christians were being of the Vatican State. You should see the persecuted. There are more than sixty Scala Santa (holy ) and maybe even catacombs in Rome, the principal ones go up them on your knees in devotion; being the Catacombs of Saints Agnes, according to Christian tradition Jesus Priscilla, Sebastian and Callistus. Last but went up them to the place where he was not least is a visit to Ostia Antica, the best interrogated by Pontius Pilate, before example of a Roman city in existence to- being crucified; they were moved to day; in the summer its Roman Theatre Rome by Saint Helen, the mother of stages a great series of events and shows Constantine. in the lovely setting of the archaeologi- Nearby, on the road between the Colos- cal site with its magical atmosphere. seum and the Lateran, is the lovely basil- Naturally it is impossible to describe ica of San Clemente, with mosaics inside every corner and every wonder of the the lower basilica also. The basilica of capital city: we just want to make a few Santa Maria Maggiore , situated on the suggestions on the basis of which every- Esquiline hill, is the only one that has one can select his or her personal en- kept its original paleochristian structure, counter with a city that holds enchanting even though it was improved later. Near- sights and infinite wonders for every- by you can visit the church of San Pietro body. in Vincoli , where the chains of Saint Pe- ter and one of Michelangelo’s most fa- For more information visit the following mous statues, Moses, are kept. Lastly, to website: www.visitlazio.com

Sperlonga (Province of Latina), © irabassi - iStock - Getty Images

89 90 Fortress of Rocca Calascio in the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, © ROMAOSLO - iStock - Getty Images ABRUZZO

Abruzzo lies between the highest peaks posts from which the fisherman casts his of the Apennines and the waters of the net into the sea, and a long, daring walk- . It is a land waiting to be dis- way, also supported by posts, connect- covered, with many treasures and magi- ing the platform to dry land, often doz- cal breath-taking scenery. ens of metres away. The natural panorama of the high imper- A cycling track of about 130 kilometres, vious peaks of the Gran Sasso, the Monti running along the entire Abruzzo Riviera della Laga and the Majella slope down to is under completion and is going to form a harmonious range of hills and then an unbroken link between all the seaside reaches the Adriatic coast. If you like, on resorts and their best attractions. the same day you can hike in the moun- The track runs along the Riviera of each tains in the morning, swim in the sea in municipality and crosses rivers over the afternoon and dine under the stars in pretty wooden bridges. This means that the country that night. in summer you can enjoy, without inter- High in the mountains, amid pristine ruption, the whole length of the coast, peaks and rock faces, there are delightful safely and tranquilly, either by day or by tourist resorts and areas equipped both night: in fact, life in the seaside resorts for winter sports and summer excur- never stops in summer, with a wide sions. Amid the mountains and hills there choice of clubs and places that become are narrow valleys, historic natural routes pubs and disco-bars in the evening. dotted with ancient villages. The little villages in the hinterland, the There are three national parks: the Abru- and the castles are all zzo e , the Gran Sasso-Mon- charming and o'er many itineraries for ti della Laga and the Majella, as well as visiting the green region of Italy. the Sirente Velino regional park, which The provinces are: L’Aquila (administra- ensure protection for species tive centre), Pescara, Teramo, Chieti. and the area’s typical animals, like the The art city most typical of the area is chamois, the golden eagle, the wolf and L’Aquila, located on the slopes of the the marsican brown bear. Gran Sasso, with an inestimable art her- Compared to the region’s relatively small itage: from the magnificent basilica of area, the Abruzzi coast seems to be real- San Bernardino to the 16th century cas- ly infinite: as many as one hundred and tle, to the basilica of Santa Maria in Col- thirty-three kilometres of beach washed lemaggio to the fountain with 999 by a clean sea and kissed by the sun for spouts, decorated with the same num- whole months, with resorts that have ber of stone masks. The city of the “ per- earned the prestigious Blue Flag, sym- donanza celestiniana ” (Celestine’s for- bolising and certifying clean waters and giveness) o'ers countless itineraries for a well-protected environment. The history, art and faith. Unfortunately the Abruzzi coast, divided among the three city and the area around it were severely provinces of Teramo, Pescara and Chieti, hit by an earthquake on 6 April 2009 and has been a popular seaside tourism des- its precious art treasures were badly tination since the late 19th century. damaged. The northern part of the Abruzzo coast Pescara, overlooking long sandy beach- has long, sandy beaches while there are es, is an important tourist resort with quieter pebbled coves in the south. Typ- memories connected with the poet Ga- ical of the southern coast, before the big briele D’Annunzio. Chieti, located in the gulf of Vasto interrupts the jagged series hills, has a wonderful 11th century cathe- of little creeks, we can see the famous dral; as well as a spa and a Roman thea- “trabocchi”. tre and amphitheatre there is also a very They are completely made of wood and interesting national Archaeological Mu- consist of a platform supported by long seum, with finds from the pre-Roman

91 sports holidays: from trekking to moun- tain biking, from horseback riding (the Gran Sasso National Park has one of Italy’s longest bridle paths, 330 km) to canoeing, from cycling holidays to downhill, from free climbing (Abruzzo has the second-biggest rock gym in Ita- ly, in the Majella National Park) to bird watching. Along the coast there are plenty of opportunities for water sports: sailing canoeing, fishing and windsurf, thanks to the equipped beaches and modern tourism. Lake Scanno (Province of L’Aquila), © Regione Abruzzo Cyclotourism is one of the best sports for discovering the myriad aspects of autochthonous people (Marrucini-Pi- Abruzzo, a unique combination of heter- cenes-Peligni-Samnites etc.). ogeneous environments and landscapes Another important city is Teramo, with that thrill the visitor travelling through its majestic “ Santa Maria Assunta ” Basili- our Region. ca-Co-cathedral (13th century) and its The itineraries, of various degrees of dif- impressive 55 metres tall campanile, the ficulty, introduce the tourist to the varie- Roman amphitheatre and the Cathedral, gated geomorphological and cultural a National Monument since 1899 and panoramas of Abruzzo (Parks, protected symbol of the ducal city, one of the few areas, historical and archaeological sites) churches in the world to have a Holy and they are suited for people that like Door. There are many ancient villages, pedalling across plains and over hills as cared for by a peasant civilisation which well as for keen cyclists always on the keeps up its traditions through local lookout for new challenges. folklore and crafts. There are many pilgrimage routes The kaleidoscopic panorama of Abruzzo through pristine environments, including o'ers various kinds of holiday, all thrill- the famous Celestine V Hermitages, set ing and full of surprises. The snow- into the rocky slopes of the Majella and capped peaks of the Abruzzo Apennines Morrone mountains, or the Romanesque have the principal ski areas of the Apen- abbeys of Santa Maria di Propezzano, nine range, which welcome tourists with San Giovanni in Venere, San Liberatore a modern ski lifts and a vast system of Majella, Santa Maria in Valle Porclaneta, tracks. San Clemente a Casauria, and Santa Ma- Even during the rest of the year Abruzzo ria Assunta in Bominaco with the adja- has much to o'er lovers of active and cent Oratory of San Pellegrino.

Nature Reserve of Punta Aderci in Vasto (), © Regione Abruzzo

92 thin pieces of pasta cooked in broth; fish is the main food on the coast. Not to be missed is the typical “brodet- to”, a delicious speciality of Abruzzo’s fishing tradition, which contains shellfish and fresh fish. Menus based on lamb, kid, and mutton (the famous “ are a “must”) are popular every- where but so are lonza (cured pork loin) and ventricina (a kind of salami). A typical Abruzzo meal is washed down by a selection of the best regional wines: Maccheroni alla chitarra, © Karisssa - iStock - Getty Images Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Not to be missed are the folkloric events, Sweetmeats are often made with al- religious feasts and other events: from monds and typical ones are torrone, Sul- the famous Festa della Perdonanza mona confetti (sugared ), cicer- (Feast of the Forgiveness) in L’Aquila to chiata (little balls of dough deep fried the San Domenico Festa dei Serpari and served with honey), bocconotti (snake festival) in Cocullo, the living Na- (pastry tarts) and mostaccioli ( tivity Scene in Rivisondoli to the many biscuits). fairs in the little villages. Abruzzo has an excellent culinary tradi- For more information visit the following tion and each province has its own spe- website: cial dishes. www.abruzzoturismo.it The star turn is maccheroni alla chitarra, homemade pasta cut on a steel wire frame; a typical Teramo dish is scrippelle,

Pacentro (Province of L’Aquila), © gmalandra - iStock - Getty Images

93 94 Cerro al (Province of ), © Regione Molise MOLISE

Located in the centre-south of Italy, Giorgio , built in full Gothic style during Molise stretches from the Apennine the 12th century. The city has the Museo chain to the Adriatic Sea. dei Misteri, which houses the majestic Nature, history, art, ancient traditions “ingegni” (contraptions) created by the and gastronomy are the treasures of this Campobasso sculptor, Paolo Saveria di little-known land. Zinno, in the 18th century; animated by In fact when you visit Molise you feel you figurants they are paraded through the are making a “discovery”, starting with its streets at the Corpus Christi procession. land, mostly mountains and hills lined by The Museo Provinciale Sannitico (Sam- “tratturi”, the old transhumance paths nite museum is interesting: it displays that join Abruzzi’s pastures with ’s. remains of the civilisation that lived in The Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e the area from prehistoric times to the Molise, has surprisingly beautiful land- Samnite period. scapes, while there are many nature re- Worth seeing in Isernia is the old town serves to protect the typical flora and centre, with many old buildings and fauna of the area. charming squares. There is also the im- Scenes of pristine nature surround the portant prehistoric area, located just region’s two most important ski resorts, outside the town, where you can visit La Campitello and . Pineta , the national Palaeolithic muse- Along the coast there are sandy beach- um; the mediaeval “ Fontana Fraterna ” es, bordered by Mediterranean vegeta- fountain is particularly beautiful. tion and clear, clean sea, which got the Well worth visiting are two small towns: Blue Flag again this year. , seat of the ancient Marinelli You can get to know the region’s thou- Foundry, which makes bells for the most sands of years of history and its culture important churches in the world, and by visiting the archaeological sites, ab- , the town of the zampogna (a beys and villages and the many castles kind of bagpipe) which has a museum scattered throughout the area. devoted to this ancient musical instru- The survival of customs and traditions, ment. of handicrafts and of ancient trades that There are important archaeological sites, no longer exist anywhere else is a unique including the Samnite sanctuary in Pie- feature that makes Molise “a little an- trabbondante with its beautiful theatre, tique world”. and Sepino, with the ruins of the ancient There are two provinces: Campobasso Roman city of Altilia, with its Forum, Ba- (administrative centre) and Isernia. The silica, Baths and Theatre, the Cardo and journey to get to know Molise starts at Decumanus streets, the walls and ma- Campobasso, a city rich in history and jestic gates. Larino, a charming town in- culture, dominated by the Monforte cas- habited since the 5th century B.C., has tle, built around 1450 over the ruins of a monuments from di'erent periods, in- Norman building on a hill that dominates cluding the domus ellenistica , the Ro- the whole city. The most important man amphitheatre and the nearby baths, monuments here are the Cathedral, built the 14th century Gothic cathedral with in 1504 and then rebuilt in neoclassical its bell tower, the Palazzo Comunale style in 1805 after an earthquake; the (town hall) and the church of San Franc- Romanesque church of San Bartolomeo ; esco . the church of San Antonio Abate , built in The coastal town of Termoli, a popular 1572, with a late Renaissance façade and seaside resort, has a charming old town a baroque interior, decorated by 17th centre with the majestic Castello Svevo century paintings and frescoes; the and the Romanesque cathedral; in Ve- church of San Leonardo , dating back to nafro the Pandone castle has a lovely the 13th century, and the church of San series of Renaissance frescoes and

95 Termoli (), © Regione Molise archaeological remains from Roman toric paths are an exceptional opportu- and pre-Roman times. nity for “living” history and the local cul- There are many castles in the area, in- ture. cluding the picturesque ones in Pescol- The thrill of skiing at a high altitude is anciano and ; the ab- guaranteed by the system of tracks in beys and sanctuaries include the Badia Campitello Matese, Molise’s most im- benedettina di , portant ski resort, as well as Capracotta, the Santuario dell’Addolorata in Castel- famed for its cross-country ski trails. petroso and the Santuario di Canneto in From Termoli to Campomarino you can Roccavivara. enjoy a quiet holiday on the coast and There are also splendid examples of Ro- practise every kind of water sport amidst manesque architecture: the church of wide, sandy beaches, clear water and San Giorgio in Petrella Tifernina and the modern structures. church of Santa Maria della Strada in Ma- Gourmets can take food-and-wine itin- trice. From the top of the Apennines eraries from the coast to high Molise, down to the coast, Molise’s pristine na- through a countryside covered with ture is the ideal place for a holiday with vineyards and picturesque villages, with relaxation, sport and excursions to the halts to taste the wines and typical prod- region’s most picturesque places. ucts, even the famous white tru?e of Nature lovers can hike or trek in the var- . Molise, the land of ious protected areas, through the typical old traditions, o'ers a number of pil- Apennine scenery of the Parco Nazion- grimage routes, passing through pristine ale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise, or in a var- environments to the sanctuary of Santa ied environment like the WWF Oasis in Maria del Canneto in Roccavivara, the Guardaregia-Campochiari, among charming sanctuary of the Addolorata woods, streams, gorges and waterfalls, amid the steep mountains of Castelpet- and the MAB reserve in Montedimez- roso, and other places of devotion. zo-Collemeluccio. There are not-to-be-missed events and Many parts of the hills are suited for festivals that keep local traditions alive: mountain bikes, while there are pano- the International Bagpipe Festival in Sca- ramic cycling tracks along the coast. poli, the Fiera del bianco (white Always surrounded by nature you can tru?e fair) in San Pietro Avellana, “La enjoy a unique experience travelling on ‘Ndocciata ”, a torchlight procession held horse-back along the “ tratturi”, the an- in Agnone, the Pezzata , a lamb fair in cient transhumance paths typical of Capracotta, the Festa del Mare (sea festi- Molise. In and nearly val) in Termoli, the Festa del Grano everywhere else in the region these his- ( festival) in Jelsi, and many more.

96 (stretched curd cheese) and “stracciata ” (fresh cows’ milk cheese) from Agnone and Alto Molise, are top quality. Scamorza (spun cheese) and “burrini ”, made with caciocavallo on the outside and butter on the inside, are pro- duced everywhere. The local wines are also excellent. They include Biferno, Pentro and Tintilia, made from a native vine. The star turns of typical sweetmeats are mostarda d’uva (a typical country jam), “ calzoni ” Ancient Theatre of (Province of Isernia), (pastries filled with chickpea paste), ostie © Regione Molise farciate (wafers filled with walnuts and almonds), and “ peccellate ” (pastries filled In this mainly agricultural region, the cui- with grape syrup or jam). sine is based on products of the soil and sheep farming.The many typical dishes For more information visit the following include maccheroni alla chitarra (pasta website: cut on a wire frame), “ pallotte cacio e www.regione.molise.it/turismo uova” (cheese and egg balls), “ taccozze e fagioli” (pasta with beans) and roasted “torcinelli ” made from lamb o'al. Other excellent Molise products are extra-vir- gin , Isernia tru?es, and several types of charcuterie, like liver sausage, “ventricina” salami, and “ pampanella ” spicy pork. The milk products, especially

Sanctuary of (Province of Isernia), © Regione Molise

97 98 Villa Rufolo, Amalfi Coast, © bluejayphoto - iStock - Getty Images CAMPANIA

This is one of the regions of Southern It- - old town centre; aly and it stretches along the coast of - The 19th century Palazzo Reale (royal the , from the mouth of palace) in Caserta, with the park of the the Garigliano river to the Gulf of Poli- Vanvitelli aqueduct and the castro. Its mild climate, beautiful coasts, complex; wealth of art and history and love of - The archaeological areas of , cooking make Campania a really enjoy- and ; able place. - The Parco Nazionale del , Vallo The journey starts at the sea, wonderful di Diano e , with the archaeo- with its bright colours, its coastlines with logical sites of and Valia and many bays, inlets and cli's, and the is- the Certosa di ; lands of Capri and , real master- - Longobardi in Italia: I luoghi del potere pieces of nature. Everything is made (568 774 A.D.) at the Santa Sofia com- even lovelier by the rich Mediterranean plex in ; vegetation, dotted with small but pretty - Celebrations with great shoulder-borne villages, where you can spend your holi- processional structures: the Festa dei day immersed in history and Campania’s Gigli (lily festival) in Nola. traditions. How could anybody forget Naples impresses the visitor with its live- nature’s imposing monument that dom- liness and the splendid colours of the sea inates this land? Vesuvius, dark and mys- as well as with its history, which crops up terious, loved for its beauty and feared in every corner of the old town centre, for its power. And then Naples, famous the biggest in Europe and a real outdoor all over the world for the intensity and museum. Wherever you look there is passion of its music, which, like the city, something lovely to see, baroque taber- mixes cultured and folksy, sacred and nacles, churches and obelisks. There are profane, joyful and melancholic. Sorren- ancient handicrafts, from nativity scenes to lies on a terrace of tu' overhanging (in San Gregorio Armeno), to the incom- the sea. In this corner of paradise jagged parable skill of master lute makers, and and inaccessible coasts alternate with then the ancient Borgo degli Orefici little, hidden beaches, creating a unique (goldsmiths’ district). There are countless landscape. Here the work of mankind itineraries you can follow: a visit to the has been wonderful. The most inacces- castles, or the museums, or the historic sible areas have become a series of ter- villas and , or a tour of the many races sloping down towards the sea, churches containing priceless master- used for growing citrus fruits, and pieces of sculpture and painting. vines. These gardens give o' the heady In the year 79 A.D. Herculaneum, Pom- perfumes of oranges, lemons and or- peii, Oplonti and Stabia were completely ange blossom. Music, sea, fun and na- destroyed by Vesuvius. The volcanic lava ture, but history and culture too. To visit destroyed them, but it then solidified and places like Paestum, Herculaneum, formed an exceptional “protection”, Pompeii, the or the which preserved the extraordinary re- Reggia di Caserta is an unforgettable ex- mains, which only came to light many perience and a journey back in time. centuries later. A visit to the ancient Fo- The area is administratively divided into rum of Pompeii allows you to visit ex- 5 provinces: Naples (administrative cen- ceptional places, liked the Casa del Fau- tre), Avellino, Benevento, Caserta and no , a monumental structure with spaces, Salerno. If you decide to spend your hol- rooms and areas devoted to various ac- idays in Campania you have plenty of tivities, the Sacrario dei Lari Pubblici , one options, but you simply must not miss of the most interesting pieces of archi- the six UNESCO Heritage Sites and the tecture found in Pompeii, probably ded- UNESCO Protected site: icated to the city’s protective deity, and

99 The columns of the Jupiter temple in the forum of Pompeii, © bdsklo - iStock - Getty Images the Casa dei Vetti , the interior of which is continuous succession of works of art, decorated with precious paintings. stuccoes, bas-reliefs, frescoes, sculp- The Amalfi Coast is an absolutely unique tures and marquetry flooring. This is a landscape: bays, inlets and picturesque structure of colossal proportions: four villages clinging to the sides of the courtyards, 1200 rooms, more than 30 mountain in miraculous equilibrium. The impressive staircases, the most famous blue of the sea, the green of the Mediter- one is the Scalone d’Onore (staircase of ranean maquis, the colours and shapes honour), with 116 steps, and it is all sur- of the little houses, all blend together to rounded by immense, beautiful grounds. create one of the most beautiful routes Archaeology, nature and tradition are the on the Italian coast. Positano, Amalfi, three distinguishing features of the Ci- Ravello, Minori and Vietri sul Mare are lento, e Alburni national some of the precious gems that form a park, a crossroads of cultures and people necklace of little villages (12 in all) along since prehistoric times. the coast. They look like little living cribs, A precious trace of the past of this land is with their old alleys, archways and Paestum, which has the three best pre- squares, which charm you with their at- served Greek temples in the world. The mosphere, sounds and scents. The Rav- Focesi, founders of Elea (now ) an ello Festival is organized every year in the ancient city famous for having been the lovely setting of the Amalfi Coast, a home of great thinkers like , must-see for people that like to be landed on the Cilento coast in 540 B.C. charmed by great music played in an in- Outstanding among the many Blue Flags comparably beautiful setting. that fly on the Cilento coast certifying The Reggia di Caserta (palace), another the quality of the sea and the services are UNESCO site, is a real masterpiece of ar- the beaches of Cala Bianca and Cala de- chitecture and decoration and it con- gli Infreschi in Camerota and of the Arco tains valuable masterpieces. When you Naturale in Palinuro. A visit to the Certo- visit its interior you are amazed by the sa di San Lorenzo, better known as the

100 and film stars. A stroll through its mythi- cal square is de rigueur for getting to the heart of this island, so full of charm and mystery. This island has many wonders and there are many ways of seeing them: by hiring one of the famous and com- fortable “ gozzi ” boats to sail around the island and see the lovely Blue Grotto; by booking a helicopter tour and flying over the whole Bay of Naples and the Hercu- laneum and Pompeii areas; or, if you Bu'alo , © svariophoto - iStock - Getty Images want to keep your feet on the ground, by booking a guided tour to see the most Certosa di Padula, one of the biggest beautiful places and hear the most curi- monasteries in the world, is a must. ous anecdotes. With an exceptionally beautify land- The sea is certainly Campania’s chief at- scape, shaped by the wind, by the sea traction but the hinterland is also worth and by mankind, Campania o'ers you seeing. Old paths, some of them dating countless ways of enjoying its land and back 2000 years, lead into the heart of discovering its highlights and the perfect the National and Regional Parks, which harmony between history, nature, cul- contain many traces of past history in an ture, folklore and wholesome flavours. exceptionally beautiful natural setting. These are places where you can spend We find old traditions in the many fairs your holidays practising sport and enjoy- and events held throughout the Campa- ing yourself, but, above all, where you nia area, which is also host to cultural can restore yourself and regain your psy- events of international importance. The cho-physical balance by being pam- cuisine is lively and sunny, mainly fa- pered in one of the many spas. There are mous for typical local produce. Thanks many places where you can regain new to the sun, Campania has some of the strength, because in the past there were juiciest and tastiest tomatoes in the volcanic phenomena in them, which world, used in sauces for many local created many aquifers, from which wa- dishes and, last but not least, on the fa- ter with curative properties still gushes mous Neapolitan . The story is told today. about a pizza maker who invented a tri- When we talk about spas we talk about coloured pizza in honour of Queen Mar- Ischia, one of the pearls of the Bay of gherita of Savoy, made with tomatoes, Naples, which, thanks to its volcanic ori- mozzarella cheese and basil, which is gin, has one of the best hydro-thermal still popular today under the traditional heritages in the world. Modern and name of “ Pizza Margherita ”. Naples is equipped wellness centres o'er a wide also the land of spaghetti. There are range of curative and aesthetic treat- many kinds of sauces and they are all ments for getting back into the best of very tasty, but the important thing is for form while surrounded by the charming the pasta to be properly cooked and the scenery of this wonderful island. Castel- Neapolitans are real masters where that lammare di Stabia, , Contursi is concerned. Another feather in the cap and Villamaina are some of the other lo- of this region is cheese, with the famous calities where you can take a cure for bu'alo mozzarella, excellently made in your body and your spirit. In the wonder- the and Piana del Sele ar- ful setting of the Bay of Naples, in addi- eas. The most typical desserts are cer- tion to Ischia, there is one of the most tainly pastiera napoletana ( pie), famous places in the world, Capri, the delicious sfogliatelle di ricotta (ricotta queen of social life and luxury, a meeting pu's) and babas soaked in liqueur. Of point for political personalities, the jet set course a land kissed by the sun and bor-

101 The island of Procida in the Gulf of Naples, © RolfSt - iStock - Getty Images dered by the sea produces excellent with the everyday gaiety and imagination wine, esteemed internationally. There is typical of the Neapolitans. The city has a wide range of excellent wines with four castles. Castel Nuovo, better known strong and not-so-strong flavours and as the Mascio Angioino, with quite di'er- wine bu's can taste them by travelling ent but well integrated architectural along one of the Wine Routes in the styles, which recall the dual role of for- good company of nature, tradition and tress-palace played by this building dur- flavour. Campania wines, from Taurasi to ing the Angevin and Aragonese periods. Aglianico, not forgetting Greco di Tufo, The splendid Arco di Trionfo was built on Asprinio d’Aversa, Lacrima Christi del Ve- the order of King Alfonso I of Aragon and suvio, Fiano and Solopaca, go wonder- designed by Pietro de Martino and fully at a dinner with traditional dishes, Francesco Laurana. On a small island, maybe even enjoyed on a terrace over- connected to the nearby mainland by a looking the sea, by candlelight, with a bridge, stands the Castello dell’Ovo, a lovely Neapolitan song in the back- venue for exhibitions and congresses, ground, finishing up with a Sorrento li- with a wonderful view of the whole bay. moncello. Perched on the Vomero hill is Castel Sant’Elmo, with a view of the major road Naples popularly known as “ spaccanapoli ” be- Naples is a treasure trove of art and his- cause it divides the city into two parts. tory, with the indelible footprints of Lastly there is Castel Capuano, originally dominations of the past, each of which a fortress and later beautified by archi- contributed to the formation of this city tectural work and converted into a state- which has such a rich heritage in its old ly home. Nearby is Porta Capuana, which town centre that it has been included in used to be the main gate into the city, the UNESCO sites. 2500 years of history outlined by a lovely marble arch. There are recounted by buildings, churches, are very many churches all over the city. monuments and art places, combined The Cathedral, built over older buildings,

102 Naples, Piazza Plebiscito, © edella - iStock - Getty Images part of which were included in the pres- Along the “Spaccanapoli” road you find ent structure, has undergone radical al- the church of Gesù Nuovo , with an unu- terations, particularly on the outside, to sual façade recovered from a fifteenth remedy the serious damage caused by century noble palace, and wonderful seismic events. It was Enrico Alvino who, marble and pictorial decorations inside in 1800, designed the vertical lift charac- it. The Santa Chiara , with the terising today’s façade, with pinnacles, plain, simple lines typical of Franciscan aedicules and spires, built around the churches, contains the royal graves and structure that had survived the earth- the characteristic Chiostro delle Clarisse quake. The interior, which has a Latin with unusual decorations completely in cross plan and a nave and two long aisles multi-coloured majolica in the colours divided by two rows of pillars, has the fa- of this land. The church of San Domeni- mous Cappella del Tesoro di San Genna- co Maggiore , as majestic as a cathedral ro , which not only houses the two phials and containing numerous works of art, is containing the saint’s blood, but also another interesting example of how Na- wonderful masterpieces made of pre- ples’ artistic and cultural heritage was cious metals. Another important place formed. The Sansevero chapel, a won- linked with Naple’s patron saint is the derful combination of architecture and Catacombs of San Gennaro, with very art, popularly known as the “ pietatella ”, precious frescoes, mosaics and finds. or the “little pieta”, is linked with the ver- The imposing Basilica of San Lorenzo satile personality of Raimondo Di San- Maggiore is the result of a set of archi- gro. Giuseppe Sammartino’s Cristo Vela- tectural stratifications built at di'erent to sculpture is famous and people are periods; it is built over the ruins of enchanted by the unusual skill with Greek-Roman structures, which have which the winding sheet delicately rest- been brought to life and can be visited ing on the body of Christ was made. through the entrance located in the in- The rich collections of old noble fami- ternal cloister. lies, like the Farnese and the Borgia, and

103 Panoramic view of Naples with Mount Vesuvius in the background, © bluejayphoto - iStock - Getty Images the many finds brought to light in Pom- Plebiscito is a must, with its wonderful peii and Herculaneum and in other parts colonnade, built to the orders of Gioac- of the South are on display in Southern chino Murat, facing one of the sides of Italy’s biggest museum of ancient art: the magnificent Palazzo Reale , designed the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, by Domenico Fontana, seat of the Vitto- housed in the ancient Palazzo degli Stu- rio Emanuele III national library, the big- di. The Palazzo Reale in Capodimonte, gest in , with very valua- surrounded by big grounds, holds the ble,extremely ancient, items. Behind the Museo e la Gallerie Nazionali di Capodi- Palazzo is the San Carlo theatre, the old- monte, a wonderful collection of mas- est opera house still operational in Eu- terpieces by Titian, Ra'aello, Correggio, rope, a temple of great music and classi- Masaccio, Mantegna, Caravaggio and cal ballet, where world famous names, the Neapolitan masters. The Apparta- like Gioacchino Rossini and Gaetano mento Reale (royal apartment) has Donizetti, have performed. In front of splendid furnishings, with the salottino di the entrance to the theatre is Galleria Porcellana (china parlour), a masterpiece Umberto I, one of the most elegant ar- made by the Real Fabbrica in Capodi- cades in Italy; its marble flooring is dec- monte, some of the products of which orated with elegant geometrical pat- are on display in the Galleria delle Por- terns. cellane. This is the only museum that If you like shopping you have a choice of displays ancient art side by side with pieces of craftwork and amusing souve- contemporary works by artists like Andy nirs to take home with you in remem- Warhol. The Museo Civico Gaetano brance of Naples and its people. In the Filangieri not only has a series of lovely central streets there are workshops, sculptures and paintings, it also has a shops and boutiques where you can buy good collection of European and Orien- whatever you like: from little terracotta tal weapons, an excellent numismatic statues in San Gregorio Armeno, where collection and many fine pieces of china creativity is at its peak at Christmas, to from the most important Italian and Eu- high fashion creations and leather ac- ropean factories. Among the main cessories, ties and shoes, from precious squares of Naples, the famous Piazza del gold jewellery to lovely umbrellas made

104 by hand of fine materials. The Naples lit time underneath Naples, a charming by the rays of the sun hides another Na- route along underground passages and ples, nestling underground, dug out by important finds, like the Greek-Roman the ancient Greeks and then the Ro- Theatre. mans, who built a massive aqueduct here, which was used until 1600. A guide For more information visit the following takes visitors on this journey through website: www.incampania.com

Panoramic view of Amalfi and harbor, © HaizhanZheng - iStock - Getty Images

105 106 , European Capital of Culture 2019, at sunset, © RudyBalasko - iStock - Getty Images

Basilicata is a region in Southern Italy the Civita, the oldest part of the town, bordered by Apulia, and takes you into the ancient urban settle- Campania. You do not go there by ment consisting of a network of caves chance and you only go if you want to dug out of the rock. This archaic type of enjoy a unique experience in places architecture, with no planning, created a where silence, colours, scents and fla- real monumental masterpiece, which vours keep away the noise and stress of attracts millions of visitors from all over everyday life and bestow genuine sensa- the world. The city of Matera is a real tions. The woods and forests that clothe natural film set and famous national and the mountains are dotted by small, international directors have chosen it as charming villages, some even at an alti- a location for their films: Pier Paolo Pa- tude of 1000 metres, where pure air, solini filmed “The Gospel According to genuine flavours and the beauty of na- St. Matthew” and Mel Gibson filmed “The ture blend with history. Basilicata is Passion” in Matera. A great deal of the washed by two seas: the Ionian and the Basilicata area is occupied by mountains, Tyrrhenian, on the coasts of which there clothed in wonderful woods and splen- are many beaches where you can relax did forests: a really spectacular land- in the sun and take a refreshing dip in the scape where you can regain your clear waters of a pristine sea. strength, enjoy yourself and eat well all The Ionian coast, with the well-known the year round. There is a beautiful area Metaponto resort, has wide beaches of where you can see the Lakes of Montic- very fine sand, in some parts surrounded chio: the Lago Grande and the Lago Pic- by pine woods and rows of eucalyptus colo are two wonderful stretches of wa- trees, which give o' a pleasant scent. ter in two craters - now extinct - of The Tyrrhenian coast, higher and jagged, Monte Vulture and they are surrounded has promontories perched over the sea by thick, lush vegetation. and little beaches here and there, washed In winter, when the high peaks are coat- by a clear sea. Maratea, called the pearl ed with white, Basilicata is the ideal des- of the Tyrrhenian, is famous not only for tination for skiers, because there are so the richness and beauty of its seabeds many facilities. In summer the Lucanian but for the possibility of taking boat trips mountains become the ideal place for along the coast, visiting the many marine trekking, climbing, and cycling. The re- caves, and also for its lovely old town gion has a number of options for sports centre and many churches. Also not to and outdoor activities, also thanks to the be missed are the imposing statue of streams and brooks flowing down the Cristo Redentore (Christ the Redeemer) mountains and the lakes surrounded by on Monte San Biagio, from where there luxuriant nature, on which you can prac- is a wonderful view of the gulf. In tise sports like rafting or canyoning, ca- Maratea it can also be fun to have a look noeing or sailing, diving or sport fishing. round the shops in the old town centre The people of Lucania are very proud of or spend a pleasant evening dining in their cuisine, which is basic and flavour- one of the typical restaurants in the port ful and entirely based on local products, and then go on to have a dessert in one skilfully combined to make typical, very the cafes in the square and stay up late at traditional dishes. The hard wheat pasta, pleasant nightclubs. made by hand using ancient tools like The provinces are: Potenza (administra- the rasola and the cavarola (a blade and tive centre) and Matera. a small chopping board) and the macca- Matera, European Capital of Culture runara (spaghetti cutter), is really deli- 2019, is the city of the Sassi cave dwell- cious. For other formats like minuich ings, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (short pasta tubes) and tria (fried pasta since 1993. A walk through the alleys of strips) all that is needed is the skill of the

107 monuments worth visiting are the Cathedral, built in the 12th century and altered in neoclassical times, which con- tains fine works of art; the Torre Guevara , the ruins of an ancient mediaeval castle; Villa Romana di Malvaccaro , with lovely mosaics; the Edicola di San Gerardo , a little temple built in the 19th century to house a highly venerated statue of the Patron Saint of the town; the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Museo Maratea, Statue of Christ the Redeemer, © APT Basilicata Archeologico Provinciale , where there are many finds linked with historic events cook. The sauces are very spicy and al- in Potenza and with Lucanian archaeol- ways contain red pepper, one of the ogy; the Archivio di Stato , with docu- symbols of Lucanian cuisine, which is ments dating back to the 14th century more commonly known here as “ dia- and many parchments; the Romanesque volicchio” (little devil). Panella , big loaves church of San Michele Arcangelo , built in of made with flour and boiled po- Romanesque style in the 13th century, tatoes, and pancotto , slices of toast which contains interesting works like the soaked in broth with egg added to them, “Madonna del Carmine” and the “Ma- are two typical dishes based on bread, a donna del Rosario e quindici misteri”; the common food in Lucanian cuisine. Lamb church of Santa Maria del Sepolcro , dat- and cazmarr, meat loaf made with o'al ing back to the 12th century, inside of (gnumaredd in dialect), and cutturiddi, a which there is a marble bas-relief de- kind of , are other specialties of Lu- picting a “Madonna col Bambino e ange- canian cooking. Lamb’s head, cooked in li”. the oven and flavoured with oregano and pecorino cheese, is also very popu- Matera lar. Famous among meats is the Lucani- You cannot even imagine Matera with- ca lean pork sausage, made in a number out the Sassi, which have made the city of variations, without any additives. An- famous all over the world. Included in other queen of gastronomy is the vege- the list of Heritage Sites, the “Sassi di table, prepared in a variety of tasty Matera” are houses (superimposed one dishes. There are di verdure over the other and joined by little steep (vegetable roll) and (fried po- streets and wide flights of steps), inhabit- tatoes, bell peppers and fla- ed from ancient times until the middle of voured with ), ciaudedda (with the last century; only their façades are in broad beans, potatoes and artichokes), masonry, while the rest (often only one and lampascioni (hyacinth bulb) salad. room) is dug out of the rock. Used since Then a superb vegetarian combination is the Middle Ages the term Sassi literally the “ piatto d’erbe alla lucana ” (Lucanian means the “inhabited rocky districts” that style herb platter), which contains onion, grew up around the original centre of eggplant, bell pepper, tomato, , the ancient town, the Civita, and occupy basil and parsley, cooked together and the two basins above the precipices of dressed with olive oil. the Gravina stream. They are Sasso Ba- risano and Sasso Caveoso. The architec- Potenza tural landscape includes a series of Even though much of the city has been churches, also dug out of the rock. Some rebuilt following the many earthquakes of the most interesting monuments in that have struck it down through the Sasso Caveoso are the rupestrian church centuries, Potenza still has many impor- of Santa Lucia alle Malve , founded by a tant traces of the past. Some of the Benedictine community around the 8th

108 century, the church of Madonna de Idris, and little canyons carved out by the sun which leads into the crypt of San and the rain. Also of interest in this area is Giovanni in Monterrone , with many the charming village of Craco, now un- lovely frescoes from various periods, the inhabited but full of historical layers, with Cimitero Barbarico (barbarian cemetery) the castle and a group of houses clinging in Rione Malve and the four rupestrian to the rock, behind which alleys, steps churches of the Convicinio di Sant’Anto- and squares spread out. Also worth a - nio. In Sasso Barisano there is the church it is the town of Tursi, with the ancient La of San Pietro Barisano, one of the big- Rabatana district, the ruins of the castle gest churches dug out of the rock, and and the church of Santa Maria Maggiore the church of Madonna delle Virtù , built in Rabatana , and the nearby church of in baroque style in 1591. Also worth visit- Santa Maria d’ Anglona . Also worth men- ing in Matera are the Cathedral, built in tioning is the coastal area around the Io- Romanesque style in 1268-70, Palazzo nian Sea, the only flat ground in the Lanfranchi, an exceptional example of province, where there are many archae- 17th century architecture in Matera, and ological remains because in the past it the many museums in the city, including was one of the main centres of Magna the “Domenico Ridola” national archae- Graecia. Of particular interest is the ological museum, and the Museo Metaponto archaeological area, with its Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna , ruins and the Tavole Palatine, ruins of a and the MUSMA, Museo della Scultura Doric-archaic temple dedicated to the Contemporanea di Matera . Another goddess Hera, the Doric style Temple of must is the Parco archeologico storico e , and the Ionian temple dedicated naturale delle Chiese rupestri del Mater- to Aphrodite, built around 470 B.C., the ano, also a Heritage Site, which has more old with the theatre and the Mu- than 160 rupestrian churches, three seo Archeologico Nazionale di Meta- Neolithic villages (Serra d’Alto, Timmari ponto , containing many archaeological and Murgia Timone) and countless pre- finds. Another place of interest is historic tombs. Policoro, with the Castle, the archaeo- In the south-eastern area of Matera there logical park with Greek ruins and the is also a series of lovely little towns, in- Museo Nazionale della Sirtide . cluding Montescaglioso, with the splen- did Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo, For more information visit the following Miglionico, with the imposing Castello website: www.basilicataturistica.it del Malconsiglio, Beralda, with the 15th century castle and also Tricarico, Grassa- no, Irsina and Ferrandina, all with many monuments. If we continue southwards we come to the lovely Calanchi area, with white clay hills, pinnacles, cones

Castelmezzano (Province of Potenza), © APT Basilicata , © APT Basilicata

109 110 Trulli houses in (Province of ), © claudio.arnese - iStock - Getty Images APULIA

This is a multiple land, a place that has esque cathedrals and baroque churches, more than one soul, this is Apulia, the of good eating and of traditions. Here we “heel of the boot”, an enchanting region, find Cisternino, Locorotondo and Os- suspended between nature, history, tra- tuni, genuine villages, full of typical art dition, taste and spirituality, a lovely place and culture, with their narrow alleys, to visit twelve months of the year. courtyards, and little squares with their If you like the sea you have plenty to craft workshops and restaurants. choose from here: the cli's of In addition to the trulli Apulia has anoth- and Santa Maria di Leuca, where the Ion- er UNESCO site, the Castel del Monte , a ian and Adriatic Seas meet, Gallipoli, the unique masterpiece of mediaeval archi- “Jewel of the area”, the Gargano tecture, built to the order of Frederick II promontory, also known as the “Sperone of Hohenstaufen in the 13th century. d’Italia” (spur of Italy), projecting into the Austere and solemn, with an esoteric clear waters of the sea where the lovely charm, it stands in spectacular solitude Tremiti islands lie. at a height of 540 metres. It was certain- Nature plays the leading role, with the ly not a defensive fortress, but perhaps a Alta Murgia national park and the Garga- hunting lodge or a centre for astronom- no national park with the wild Foresta ical teaching; today the mansion is the Umbra, and then the Monti Dauni, the symbol of Imperial Apulia, land of castles deep gorges of Laterza and the wide and cathedrals, including the Valle of the sinkholes of Altamura, which, with their Ofanto River, the Adriatic Sea and the lovely landscapes, characterise the in- Alta Murgia hill. land part of the region. A must-see Apulian art city is , with And if you want to take a trip through its baroque buildings, churches, the se- history Apulia o'ers a wide choice of cret gardens of the old town centre and places that recount the ancient origins of the scenic Piazza Duomo, overlooked by this land: from prehistoric times to Mag- the Cathedral, the Vescovado (Bishop’s na Graecia, from the imperial period to palace) and the Palazzo del Seminario the Renaissance, to the baroque splen- (seminary). Lovely , the city of the dours of Lecce and Salento. two seas, with the Aragonese Castle and The provinces are: Bari (administrative the national archaeological museum, centre), Barletta--Trani, , the MarTa, is one of the most important , Lecce, Taranto. Italian areas dedicated to the culture of The devout, and even others, will want to ; after seeing the famous visit San Giovanni Rotondo, a world pil- Ori , golden artefacts dating back to the grimage centre since Padre Pio’s time, 4th-2nd century B.C., it is well worth and Monte Sant’Angelo, with the famous while visiting the old town centre, once UNESCO Heritage Site, the Santuario the of the Greek , where dedicated to the Archangel Michael, we can see the 11th century cathedral of who, according to local tradition, ap- San Cataldo , with the beautiful Cappel- peared there. lone (chapel), a masterpiece of the Nea- However, if you want full immersion in politan school of baroque décor. history and tradition, Alberobello is a If you like sporting holidays in direct must. It is the homeland of the trulli, pic- contact with nature you have many op- turesque old stone houses with conical tions. If you enjoy the thrill of exploring roofs, many of which o'er accommoda- the sea there are certainly plenty of tion nowadays and form the city’s old choices. The clear waters of the Tremiti town centre, recognised as a UNESCO islands are a wonderful scene, with in- World Heritage Centre. This is the Murgia lets, caves and deep seabeds, all colour- dei Trulli, land of sunny olive groves and ed by thick vegetation and populated by vineyards, of trulli and farms, of Roman- many species of fish. San Domino, San

111 Nicola, Capraia, Cretaccio and Pianosa home to the last wolves of Apulia. Let are the five islands of the Tremiti Archi- yourself go on a slow holiday and taste pelago, a miniature paradise where his- the traditional dishes in a fascinating area tory and nature blend perfectly to o'er a where knowledge and flavours blend. wonderful landscape just waiting to be has always been classi- explored. Santa Maria di Leuca, between fied as “poor” because of the simplicity the Ionian and Adriatic seas, is another of its ingredients and it can please every must. In some places the seabeds are 90 type of palate. The cuisine has three metres deep and the life forms that col- strong points: wheat, onise this stretch of sea create a lovely and olive oil, which, combined with meat play of colours. But if you enjoy yourself and fish, are always the basis for original better above the water there are many dishes that maintain genuine and unmis- places where you can practise windsurf takable flavours. The cornerstone of re- or kitesurf, and not only during the sum- gional food is home-made pasta made mer. But Apulia is not just sea: in order to of durum wheat or a mixture of hard and discover the wonderful gifts of nature soft wheat: orecchiette , the small pasta and the traditions and travel in a di'erent shells symbolic of the region, also called way a cycling tour is the ideal way of chiancarelle and stracenàte in dialect, getting to know the area. You don’t need were once the main dish of poorer fam- to be an experienced cyclist to take a trip ilies but are now highly appreciated and on two wheels; all you need is to want an served in the best restaurants. Some of alternative experience. The itineraries are the excellent products that have earned many and varied: through nature, pedal- the protection of PDO or TGI labels are: ling along the paths of the Gargano or Altamura bread, famous for its flavour; Alta Murgia parks, through history, dis- sweet, juicy clementines from the gulf of covering the many traces of the past of Taranto; the Bella della Daunia olive, this land, or going inland to discover a grown in Foggia since the year 1400; the lifestyle far removed from the frantic famous extra-virgin olive oils; and the pace of the big cities. Apulia will surprise fine wines from autochthonous vines you with a little known itinerary, the like , Primitivo and Uva di Monti Dauni route, with little villages Troia. where time seems to be standing still. All Many patron saints’ feast days, fairs and around are green hills and luxuriant historic reenactments are organised all woods, like those surrounding Faeto, the year round in every part of Apulia: Bovino and Biccari, from where you can the Carnival of Putignano, the Feast of depart to plunge into pristine nature, Saint Nicholas in Bari, the Disfida di Bar-

Polignano a Mare (Province of Bari), © emicristea - iStock - Getty Images

112 Vieste (), © Poike - iStock - Getty Images letta tournament, and the accensione tals through which you enter the naves, della focara (bonfire) in Novoli, are where there are important works of art. among the most famous. The second most important church in Bari is the Cathedral, flanked by a high Bari and its environs bell tower and built over previous an- A tour through the cathedrals and cas- cient buildings. A beautifully decorated tles dominating many of the old town rose window and three portals enhance centres is also an opportunity to explore the design of the main façade. The new the area’s wonderful natural landscape. town, built at the desire of Gioacchino The starting point is Bari, a crossroads of Murat, is crossed by the main shopping cultures since ancient times. A city with streets, like Corso Cavour, where the op- two souls: the old town centre, sur- era house, Teatro Petruzzelli, is located. rounded by imposing walls and many A must-see on the Adriatic coast is Trani, streets leading to the discovery of its rich with its majestic Romanesque Cathedral, cultural heritage, and the modern city, which looks as if it was rising up out of built at the beginning of the 19th centu- ry, which, as time went by, has become the lively cosmopolitan city of today. Along the walls of the old part there is the majestic Castle, built to the order of Federico II of Swabia, with a big inner courtyard where shows and events are held today. A splendid example of Apulian is the big Basilica di San Nicola, which contains the body of the famous Saint. Its plain lu- minous façade, flanked by two towers of di'erent shapes and sizes, has three por- Orecchiette Pasta, © DENIO RIGACCI - iStock - Getty Images

113 Ostuni (Province of Brindisi), © Poike - iStock - Getty Images

Lecce, Basilica di Santa Croce, © ROMAOSLO - iStock - Getty Images

114 the sea, and the alleys of the Giudecca Mediterranean maquis, taking on the district, the Synagogue of Scolanova, dark shades of bleak land, and we come and the Santa Lucia and Sant’Antonio to Altamura, known mainly for its PDO piers, with the colourful fishing boats in bread. We can see the town perched on the background, and all the bars and a hill of the plateau with the big towers clubs that become so lively in the night standing out in the sky, as if trying to at- time. Polignano a Mare, perched over tract the visitor’s attention. The last, but the coast, is perfect for lovers of con- certainly not the least interesting, stage temporary art, with the Fondazione Mu- is a visit to Gravina in Puglia, land of ca- seo Pino Pascali ; in Monopoli there are nals, caves and ravines carved out by un- charming views of little churches, build- derground water and used as a refuge by ings, tower houses and clubs along the humans in the past. long Capitolo beach. When we go back up the Murgia, the For more information visit the following landscape loses the warm colours of the website: www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

Bari, view from marina, © jocker17 - iStock - Getty Images

115 116 Chianalea di Scilla (Province of ), © nata_rass - iStock - Getty Images CALABRIA

This is the “toe of the boot”, the extreme a few of the wonders of nature that this south of Italy, washed by the Ionian and land contains. When you think of Cal- Tyrrhenian Seas and separated from Sic- abria what immediately comes to mind ily by the Strait of . are the sea and the beaches, where you Its mild climate, its rocky coasts alternat- can bask in the sun, practise windsurf or ing with sandy shores, its pristine and kitesurf, or dive to see the wonderful mysterious nature, the intense flavours seabeds with their brilliantly coloured of the local food, and the traces of its gorgonians and fascinating wrecks from ancient origins, all combine to make World War 2. Calabria a unique place, lovely in both Calabria o'ers many options for amuse- winter and summer. If you like to bask in ment and relaxation to people who de- the rays of the sun and bathe in a crys- cide to spend their holidays exploring tal-clear sea, you can choose one of the the hinterland. charming resorts that dot the Tyrrhenian Lovers of winter sports can opt for one and Ionian coasts. of the many ski resorts, which also have If you prefer getting to know about this synthetic tracks for training on skis all land’s past, Calabria, cradle of Magna year round. Graecia and land of antique settlements, For the more adventurous, a rafting ex- o'ers you a wide choice of churches, cursion along the river Lao or through monasteries, castles, palaces and places the Sila gorges is certainly an experience where centuries-old customs and tradi- not to be missed. tions still live on. Alternatively, you can go down the river The provinces are: Catanzaro (adminis- without the aid of special craft (rafts) but trative centre), Reggio Calabria, Cosen- just “walking”, diving into the water and za, and . letting yourself down by rope on the The whole world has heard of the fa- more di[cult stretches (canyoning). mous Bronzi di Riace , on display in the The assistance of specialised guides National Museum in Reggio Calabria, makes these fascinating sports accessi- important relics of Magna Graecia, a pe- ble for all. Another opportunity for learn- riod that left a deep mark on the history ing and for enjoying yourself at the same of this land. These wonderful statues of time is orienteering, a sport that started two warrior heroes are a rare example of in the Scandinavian countries, testing classical Greek sculpture. your ability to find your way. The partici- For lovers of the sea, Calabria - with its pant, equipped with a map and a com- 800 kilometres of coastline - o'ers pass, has to reach the finishing post as beautiful beaches, one of which is Capo quickly as possible, choosing the route Vaticano, in the Vibo Valentia province, independently but with obligatory inter- said to be one of the 100 most beautiful mediate stages. beaches in the world: a long stretch of And why not try the thrill of “flying”? Spe- very fine sand, edged by centuries-old cialised instructors will guide you trees and washed by crystal-clear water through the skies, firmly fastened to the inhabited by a wide variety of fish fauna. seat of a paraglider, and show you the A journey into the wild nature of the Cal- beauty of Calabria from an absolutely dif- abrese hinterland is a must and the Sila, ferent perspective. Serre, Aspromonte and Pollino parks are Calabria is the land where thrills are some of the most interesting nationalis- strong and intense. And so are its fla- tic destinations. vours. The famous Calabrian red pepper The “fiumare” (torrents) and “ grandi pie- is proof of this. We find it in most of the tre ” (big rocks) of Aspromonte, the “ pa- typical Calabrian dishes: from triarchi vegetali” (plant patriarch trees) of (toast) with n’duja (chopped bacon Sila, and the rich fauna of Serre are only spread) or with sardella (a paste made of

117 Briatico (Province of Vibo Valentia), a traditional fishing village, © Freeartist - iStock - Getty Images

Nduja, a typical meat spread, © Proformabooks - iStock - Getty Images

118 Stilo (Province of Reggio Calabria), © SKatzenberger - iStock - Getty Images newly hatched sardines) known as “the Messina, dating back to the 16th century. poor man’s caviar”, to sauces for pasta, The Norman tower, square shaped and to fish dishes. crenelated, is what remains of the ruins The strong flavour of red pepper is o'set of a Norman castle. Villa Trieste is sur- by the sweetness of the famous Tropea rounded by beautiful gardens containing red onions, protected by a PGI label, rare plants and marble busts of famous used for flavouring food but also as a people of the region. Moreover, the Bel- cure. You could write a book about Cal- vedere is a perfect viewpoint for admir- abrian products and typical foods. Ex- ing the Fiumarella valley and the Squil- tra-virgin olive oil; wines; liqueurs made lace Gulf. The Provincial Museum, with bergamot, liquorice, citron or herbs; located in the Villa Comunale , has col- honey and jam; pasta with typical shapes lections of prehistoric finds and antique (strangugghij, fileja, maccaruni ) still coins. made in the old way, are just some of the Soverato, known as the pearl of the Ion- delicacies you can taste when you ex- ian, is Calabria’s leading tourist city, with plore this wonderful region. its nightlife and dozens of nightclubs. The province of Catanzaro is famous for Montepaone consists of the old town maritime tourism, especially on the Ioni- centre in the hinterland and the Lido an coast, but there is also the beautiful overlooking the Costa dei Saraceni - or Sila area. Places to visit on its slopes are Costa degli Aranci . Cortale, Taverna and Tiriolo. The main The Municipality of Borgia is also famous monuments in Catanzaro are the for its archaeological site, Scolacium, Cathedral, and inside it the Madonna and which has the ruins of the pre-Roman Child, a statue by Antonello Gagini da settlement of Skylletion, with the re-

119 Tropea (Province of Vibo Valentia), © nata_rass - iStock - Getty Images

One of the Riace Bronzes at display in the National Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria, © SimonePellicciotti - iStock - Getty Images

120 mains of roads, aqueducts, mausoleums, Belcastro is situated on the south-east- and a theatre and amphitheatre. ern foot of Sila Piccola, towards the Ion- Squillace gave its name to the Gulf and ian coast, equidistant from the sea and has several monumental churches in the the mountain. old town centre, as well as a Norman It is a typical mediaeval fief, standing on Castle also known as “Dei Borgia”. In the a rocky spur at the foot of the castle of streets you can see traces of Greek, Ro- the Counts of Aquino, The alleys are man, Saracen and Byzantine domination. lovely and so narrow that a car cannot Cortale, located in the narrowest point pass through them. There are many of Calabria, is very important for its artis- churches from di'erent periods. tic-musical tradition and it has one of the oldest town centres in the region. More- For more information visit the following over, the first regional wind farm is locat- website: www.turiscalabria.it ed here.

Reggio Calabria, Monument of Vittorio Emanuele © nata_rass - iStock - Getty Images

121 122 , Temple of Concordia, © RobertoGennaro - iStock - Getty Images

Since ancient times, Sicily has always The Roman Villa del Casale is a late Ro- been a crossroads of cultures, a blend of manesque structure located in Piazza art and history, culture and archaeology, Armerina (in the province of ), which nature and landscape, sports, food and is very famous for its exquisite architec- wine, marvellous coastlines and crystal ture and elegant mosaics. Agrigento’s clear waters, a vast array of uniquely Greek temples are an architectural mar- Mediterranean sights, sounds, colours vel, and at sunset, you can see the light and fragrances. The treasures of this is- turn them into an intense yellow and land, inherited over the course of centu- pink; while in summer a night tour of the ries that witnessed the passing of various moonlit structures makes for an unfor- cultures and civilizations, are testimony gettable experience. Hellenic sanctuar- to the diverse people that have lived ies and necropolises dot the whole Valle here: from the Greeks to the Phoeni- dei Templi, spanning an archaeological cians, from the Romans to the Byzan- area of 1,300 hectares. The Aeolian Is- tines, from the Arabs to the Normans, lands are a volcanic archipelago com- from the Spaniards to the Austrians. This prising 7 islands: , , Salina, is one of the real jewels of Southern Italy, , , Alicudi and . a land to discover and experience via its These “seven pearls of the Mediterrane- broad range of o'-the-beaten-path itin- an” are home to a number of incompa- eraries, which span the most varied in- rable natural treasures: beaches, coves, terests: nature, history, traditions. With caves, inlets, stacks, seabeds and other its myriad small islands dotting the Sicil- beauties of nature. The baroque ian coast, the Mediterranean here o'ers centres of Val di are of incompara- us landscapes, fragrances and flavours of ble artistic and architectural beauty. Syr- such a stunningly unique and intense acuse is an architectural jewel, with its nature that only a pristine natural territo- archaeological park, theatre, quarries, ry could provide: parks, thermal springs, amphitheatre and the old city centre of awe-inspiring volcanoes, and many oth- Ortigia, founded by Greek colonists from er exuberant and fascinating sights and Corinth, and the remains of the temple sounds. The island’s charm is enhanced of Athena, currently a Cathedral. Pantali- by the archaeological treasures that bear ca’s Necropolis, with more than 5,000 witness to the roots of the civilizations tombs built between the eighth and sev- that settled this ancient land. enth century B.C. Finally, there is Mount Sicily’s main cities are: , its capi- Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano, tal, Agrigento, , Caltanissetta, declared a UNESCO World Heritage be- Enna, Messina, Ragusa, Syracuse and cause of the exceptional level of volcan- Trapani. Sicily is renowned worldwide ic activity and because of its document- also for its high number of UNESCO ed activity dating back 2,700 years. It is a World Heritage Sites, with the most re- perfect spot to go skiing or for a hike cent inclusion of Arab Norman Palermo with fantastic views of the intense blue and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalú of the Sicilian seas. Sicily’s mediaeval and in 2015 it has now a total towns and castles are also magnificent of seven sites on the prestigious list: Villa places to visit. del Casale, (Valley of the The undisputed ruler of this land is defi- temples) in Agrigento, the Aeolian Is- nitely the sea, which can be enjoyed and lands, the , the late baroque experienced in many di'erent ways: re- cities of , Syracuse and the laxing on a sandy beach enjoying the rupestrian . An- fantastic scenery of the coastlines, snor- other folkloric and intangible world her- kelling and scuba diving in its waters, or itage is the Opera dei Pupi marionette riding its waves and winds on a windsurf theatre. or kite surf. The force of the sea, mixed

123 Favignana, one of the (), Cala Rossa Beach, © spooh - E+ - Getty Images with the strength of the winds, is the per- and others yet are just a few steps away fect opportunity to experience “gliding” from the sea or right by a salt pit. The or even “flying” on the pristine waters vulcanelli delle Macalube di Aragona (in that caress the coasts of San Vito lo Capo Agrigento) also make for an unforgetta- and the Zingaro natural reserve, Mondel- ble experience. lo, Cefalu, Marina di Ragusa, , Since ancient Roman times, Sicily has the Aeolian Isles, the Aegadian Islands, been a sought-after destination for those Pantel- leria, Lampedusa, (which seeking thermal treatments. A land of is also a scuba diving paradise), Menfi, water and volcanoes, Sicily has a wide Torre Salsa, Capo d’Orlando, Patti, Leto- range of therapeutic and cosmetic spa janni and Fiumefreddo near Messina, the treatments. The most famous thermal Playa di Catania, the coast of San Leone locations are those in , Ali Terme, and the Scala dei Turchi, a huge rock wall Volcano, Terme Vigliatore, Termini Imer- overlooking the sea near Agrigento. The ese, Montevago Acqua Pia and finally most famous place near Syracuse is Acireale, where underground seawater Fontane Bianche. blends with sulphuric waters from Mount For those who love sports and the great Etna. outdoors, Sicily o'ers breathtaking land- The Istituto Nazionale di Dramma Antico scapes that are perfect for the enjoy- INDA (national institute of ancient dra- ment of diving, trekking, kayaking, rock ma) puts up great shows at the scenic climbing, MTB and horseback riding. The Teatro Antico (ancient theatre) of Syra- exuberant plant life, mild climate, beauti- cuse, while the Teatro Massimo in Paler- ful mountains and crystal clear waters, mo and Taormina Arte at the Teatro Anti- high-end resorts and hotels, and the tra- co in Taormina organize a great variety ditional colours and fragrances of the of thrilling shows. The and Seli- region are joined by spectacular golf nunte archaeological areas also o'er courses, some with Mount Etna or Punic shows and performances. But Sicily is Necropolises as their backdrop, while also a land of contemporary art, the others are located in historic parks from Cretto di Burri and the Atelier sul Mare the eighteenth century or surrounded by art hotel are perfect examples of the the unique Mediterranean vegetation, work of artists from the last century. Sic-

124 Palermo, the Italian Capital of Culture 2018, © marcociannarel - iStock - Getty Images ily’s archaeological museums, on the with sardines, with broccoli, sarde a other hand, host exquisite treasures dat- beccafico, just to name a few. The tiny ing back to prehistoric times, while re- silver , the exquisite red tuna gional galleries display mediaeval, re- and the pink swordfish, as well as naissance and baroque works of art, and savoury cheeses, like Caciocavallo and contemporary art museums host pieces Ragusano, and even Bronte’s pistachio from the last two centuries. nuts: just a few of the traditional ingredi- Sicily is also a land of many fairs and tra- ents used to prepare the local delicacies. ditional festivals. There are many festi- A platter that every visitor should try is vals on the occasion of the Carnival, the the Trapani style . In Sicily, year’s most cheerful and colourful event. reigns supreme. Palermo is Acireale’s celebration is particularly fa- Italy’s only city included in the world’s mous for its creativity and originality, top ten for street food. The panino con with allegorical floats built in papi- la milza (a spleen sandwich), the er-mâché and decorated with many and crocché fritters, the arancine (stu'ed flowers, for a parade that is also a de- and fried rice balls) and the sfincione (a lightful and colourful masquerade. Ritual type of ), cardi fritti (fried and tradition find their expression also in cardoons) and the stigghiola (a type of the many celebrations in honour of the ), the (a traditional various Patron Saints of Sicily, with aubergine platter), the and the events that are a blend of faith and folk- sea urchin, are some of the many delica- lore and reflect the profound devotion of cies on o'er here. Catania also has its the Sicilian people. In July, there is the own street food tradition. For lunch, feast of Saint Rosalia in Palermo, while in there is a long list of hors d’oeuvres, February there is Saint Agatha’s Feast in delicious main courses and second Catania, being just a few of the many courses with fish or meat, followed by celebrations held yearly throughout all the pleasures of the unparalleled Sicilian of the region. Noto’s Infiorata flower fes- pastries, where Ricotta cheese and tival is a beautiful event held in spring in almond paste reign supreme. A variety of this baroque town. extra virgin olive oils, the deliciously juicy The charm and warmth of this land has blood oranges and the sweet grapes of even influenced the , Canicattì, the Pachino tomatoes and the which, through its exquisite platters, re- capers, the prickly pears and veals the passion and attention to detail olives of Nocellara del Belice, Castelve- that characterizes the Sicilian people and trano’s black bread, are all just a few their love for genuine flavours. There are of the many gastronomic delicacies used a myriad of traditional platters that are in Sicilian cuisine, along with cheeses renowned worldwide for their Mediter- like the Ragusano or Piacentino, and ranean flavour. , pasta many di'erent types of cold cuts

125 and baked goods like the pagnotta di rious past: majestic Palazzo dei Norman- Dittaino bread. ni or Palazzo Reale with the Palatina Sicily’s wine has grown in popularity and Chapel, filled with ancient mosaics in prestige in recent years, with some ex- gold-foil; there is also the spectacular cellent wines with bold and full-bodied Duomo di Monreale (another, the church flavours, like the Passito di Pantelleria of San Giovanni degli Eremiti ; the Cathe- and the d’Avola, which are re- dral, a masterpiece of Arab-Norman ar- nowned worldwide. Sicily is home to chitecture, which hosts the collections many PDO and TGI products, which of the Diocesan museum. Particularly makes the island one of the points of ref- noteworthy is the Chiesa del Gesù (the erence world- wide for Mediterranean church of Jesus), one of Palermo’s most cuisine, well known for the authenticity important baroque architectural works, of its products. while the Oratorio del Santo Rosario di San Domenico (oratory of the holy rosa- Palermo ry of Saint Dominic) and the Oratorio di A picturesque city dominated by its red Santa Zita (oratory of Saint Zita) are fa- Arabic domes that have been listed as a mous for their intricately designed stuc- UNESCO World Heritage Site, the majes- co façades and their exquisite interiors. A tic façades of its luminous palaces; from tour of the city must always include a then colourful historic markets of Ballarò visit to the Martorana or Chiesa di Santa and del Capo to its luscious verdant Maria dell’Ammiraglio , which hosts one parks: Parco della Favorita , the one at of the most important series of mosaics Villa Giulia, the Giardino di Garibaldi and in all of Sicily; the Church of Saint Cath- the Giardino Inglese. The buildings in the erine, with its richly decorated interiors, old centre are witnesses to the city’s glo- and the Chiesa del Magione , which was

Traditional Sicilian , © EnkiPhoto - iStock - Getty Images

126 Cefalù (), © xenotar - E+ - Getty Images founded in the twelfth century. For a Mount Pellegrino. Thanks to its unique uniquely distinct tour, visit the Cata- cultural heritage Palermo was named combs of the Capuchin monks. Another the Italian Capital of Culture 2018 . must-see is the botanical gardens. For some beautiful scenery, visit Castello Ut- For more information visit the following veggio, which overlooks the city from website: www.visitsicily.info

Noto (), © dalib0r - iStock - Getty Images

127 128 Stintino (Province of Sassari), La Pelosa Beach, © kasto80 - iStock - Getty Images

Thousands of years of history steeped in cient watchtowers in Sardinia. Castelsar- fascination and mystery, a very distinctive do also overlooks this Gulf, but from the cultural identity and a unique mix of cli- other side. You can stop there to see its mate and natural beauty make this island lovely mediaeval old town and the castle in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea a of the Genovese family, Doria. land to visit, discover and love, and it has Before going west along the coast it is deep, almost indissoluble, links with its well worth while stopping in Sassari, inhabitants and its guests. Sardinia dis- where two typical events of Sardinian plays to its visitors a treasure trove of culture are held: in mid-May there is the lovely beaches and crystal-clear and Cavalcata Sarda (horse parade) and, on temperate seas, mountains and valleys of the 14th of August (the day before the volcanic origin, breathtaking scenery and Feast of the Assumption) there is the natural contrasts of lights and colours, Discesa dei Candelieri (candlestick pro- and also culture, art, monuments, fairs cession). On the road again, along the and big events, artistic crafts and tradi- north-eastern coast, we come to the tional cuisine. Around its circumference charming port of Santa Teresa di Gallura, (1800 metres of coastline), where stretch- at the centre-north end; surfers and sail- es of sand alternate with high promonto- ors should make a short visit to the Rena ries, you can enjoy a lovely itinerary with Bianca beach. frequent and thorough visits, to discover On the east, amid the charms of Gallura, the hinterland with its wild, and often is the Costa Smeralda, one of the most pristine, scenery. famous tourist resorts in the world. In The first stop is Alghero, on the particular there is Porto Cervo (in the north-western coast. Known as ‘ Barce- Arzachena area), built around the natural loneta ’ (little Barcelona) because the port, which is now the best equipped people speak an Alghero version of Cata- tourist port on the Mediterranean; it dates lan, it is the chief town of the red coral back to the sixties when Prince Karim Aga Riviera. Of the many beaches, Bombarde Khan IV opened up this area to luxury is worth mentioning. Not to be missed is tourism. From the port to the beaches: an excursion to Capo Cassia, an impres- Cala Moresca and Cala Pittulongu (in sive calcareous rock promontory, also Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo) attract famous for its many marine caves. lovers of crystal-clear atmospheres. A Going northwards we see the island of few minutes by sea takes us to the Madd- with the colonies of white don- alena archipelago, an ideal place for di- keys that still live wild there. This is a part vers: the underwater world is just as of the country where you ought to go on beautiful as what we see on the surface. an excursion by bicycle or in the little Along the coast of the park’s main island train, and bathe in the waters of Sardinia’s you can stop for a bathe on the Relitto or biggest island, the national park of which Spalmatore beach. Then you come to is an extremely beautiful treasure of na- Porto Massimo, a tourist resort located in ture and avifauna, with many rare species. the north-eastern area. The marina, You can easily get there from Stintino. framed by pristine scenery, directly faces Christened the “capital of the lateen sail” another island, Caprera, with many pas- and famous for “La Pelosa” (an oasis of tures and pine woods where there is a white sand in a sea of inimitable colours), Garibaldi museum and Garibaldi’s tomb. the town was founded by fishermen who Sailing from Caprera towards the Bocche originally lived on Asinara. Time has not di Bonifacio you are struck by the wild altered the charm of the old fishing vil- splendour of the Budelli island, with its lage. Beside the Pelosa beach stands the lovely Spiagga Rosa (pink beach), which tower of the same name, a 16th century gets its colour from shells and corals. Aragonese building, one of the many an- From here you go a little further south

129 Capo Coda Cavallo (Province of -Tempio), © massi67 - iStock - Getty Images along the Tyrrhenian coast to Capo Coda the marine itinerary is a visit to Ogliastra, Cavallo and the , in one of with scenery marked by Mediterranean Italy’s loveliest marine protected areas; maquis reflected in the transparent wa- everyone likes diving on the delightful ters of the creek of Santa Maria Navar- seabeds. rese, a coastal hamlet of Baunei. The Further south, departing from Porto Otti- symbol of Santa Maria is a little church, olu, used by the Romans as a landing probably dating back to the year 1000, stage on the Sardinian coasts, we can vis- which, legend has it, the Princess of it the Gulf of Orosei. The bay is famous Navarre had built in honour of Our Lady, for some of Sardinia’s most beautiful because she had survived a shipwreck. beaches: Cala Brandinchi (in San Teo- We leave from the port of Santa Maria to doro, a little further north than the Gulf), explore 40 kilometres of the uncontami- Berchida (in Siniscola) and Bidderosa (in nated coast of the Mediterranean, with Orosei). Then we land at Cala Gonone, the not-to-be-missed Cala Sisine, Cala perched on a steep hill.This lovely hamlet Mariolu and Cala Goloritzè (all in the Bau- of Dorgali has some wonderful coves nei area), which the keenest and most (Cartoe, Cala Fuili and Cala Luna), some skilled trekkers in the world opt for every of which can only be reached by sea or year. We head for the south-eastern along paths from the hinterland. A must coast to admire the very long (10 kilo- in this area is an excursion to the Grotta metres) beach of Costa Rei and dive on del Bue Marino. We set out from Dorgali the seabeds of Capo Ferrato (in the Mura- for not-to-miss trekking in the fascinat- vera area) and then make a stop at the ing archaeological area of Tiscali. port of Villasimius: a wonderful destina- And then we go on to visit the Gennar- tion because of its many white beaches gentu, Sardinia’s biggest mountain com- (Cala Giunco, for example). Nowadays it plex, with its picturesque scenery where is one of the most popular resorts on the man and nature have come together, Mediterranean. We move from the with nature taking the leading role. The south-eastern end to the Sardinian capi- fauna is plentiful, with mouflons, golden tal. eagles, Sardinian deer and various almost Cagliari for Sardinians is “Casteddu”, the extinct species. The Gennargentu area is castle. The fortified area is full of monu- not just trekking and archaeological ex- ments: the mediaeval Rampart of Saint cursions, you can ski here too, especially Remy, the Elephant and the San Pan- on Bruncu Spina and Monte Spada. Fur- crazio Towers, the Cathedral of Santa ther south, the natural continuation of Maria, located in the beautiful Piazza

130 Barumini, considered a Heritage Site. There are more than seven thousand nuraghes scattered throughout the is- land: they are truncated conical stone towers and are the biggest and best pre- served megalithic monuments in all Eu- rope, unique in the world, traces of an ancient culture that existed between the 15th and 6th centuries B.C. We go back west, on the coasts of . Sulcis was Sardinia’s mining centre and so the re- Seadas, a typical sardinian dessert, © Macrolife.it - iStock - cent development of tourism is one more Getty Images reason for discovery for people who thought they already knew everything Palazzo, and the ‘Cittadella dei Musei’, about Sardinia. The mines are open to the with its museums. Outside the walls are public now, thanks to the Parco Geomin- the Amphitheatre and the Villa of Tigellio, erario , a notable example of industrial ar- from Roman times, and the Tuvixeddu chaeology. We can take the port of Necropolis, with hundreds of tombs dat- Sant’Antioco as a starting point for diving ing back to between the 6th century B.C. at (), which of- and the 1st century A.D., and many other fers expert technical tips, and for a dive early mediaeval constructions. The city into the waters of Porto Pino (in Sant’An- looks down on some areas of naturalistic na Arresi), Masua and Pan di Zucchero value, the ponds of Molentargius (with (Iglesias), and Cala Domestica (a Bugger- many colonies of flamingos) and Santa ru), a breathtaking place. Gilla; there are spectacular stretches A little further north of Buggerru we come along its coastline, like Poetto, which to Medio Campidano, Sardinia’s granary, reaches the foot of the hill called ‘Sella here the Arbus marina, and especially the del Diavolo’. We start again from here beaches of Piscinas and Torre dei Corsari, across the Golfo degli Angeli towards are well worth a visit. Further up, in the Pula, along the same road as the fair of Oristano area, we make a stop at the Ma- Sant’Efisio, one of the most important re- rina of Torregrande, a little fishing village ligious and folkloric events in all Sardinia, that grew up around the ancient Spanish enhanced by the traditional costumes of tower, the biggest in Sardinia. The almost every town participating. The main cul- 3 kilometres-long strand runs from the tural attraction in Pula is the Phoeni- mouth of the Tirso as far as the port. cian-Punic and Roman ruins in Nora. This From here we depart to visit the Sinis was probably the island’s most important peninsula and the Mal de Ventre (Cabras) city at the time of the Roman conquest island, frequented by divers and very (238 B.C.). The remains of the old town popular with international surfers. Inland, are the forum, theatre, tophet, temple of a stop at the Tharros archaeological site, Tanit, thermal baths and dwellings. From of Roman times, from which there is a culture to the beaches, the lovely ones of wonderful view down to the sea, is a Chia, like Cala Cipolla (perfect for kite must. Last stop: Bosa, a mediaeval village, surfers) and the wild ones of Teulada, unique of its kind in Sardinia. A visit to the Tuerredda for instance, which can be ex- old town centre and the castle is obliga- plored by bicycle or on horseback. Before tory. A thing the whole island has in com- going back to our travels we can immerse mon is its authentic Sardinian hospitality, ourselves in the folk traditions of the with many acts of kindness and a cuisine province of Cagliari, in search of the mys- renowned all over the world. terious “tombs of the giants” and the “ do- Famous traditional specialities include: mus de janas ”, ancient graves carved out porchetto (roast ), cordula of the rock, and the nuraghic villages of (grilled intestines of milk-fed lamb or

131 calf), boiled mutton, homemade char- ‘su civraxiu ’ (big circular loaves), or cara- cuterie and sausages, all typical delicacies sau (crispy sheets), and the home-made of the hinterland. De rigueur at the sea pasta, like culurgionis (kind of ), fer- are mullet (bottarga, mullet roe prepared gola (tiny balls of dough) or malloreddus in Cabras, is a must), grilled bass, bream (small dumplings) would appeal to any or eels, not forgetting lobster (Alghero is palate. Hors d’oeuvres and first and sec- particularly recommended) and tuna ond courses may be accompanied by (with Carloforte in the forefront), sea ur- Sardinian pecorino cheese, and an end- chins and and clams. The bread, less variety of almond cakes, honey and like ‘ su coccoi ’ (rolls in various shapes), pastries. Food can be washed down with

Panoramic view of Cagliari, © di Cagliari

Tavolara Island (Province of Olbia-Tempio), © lucien82 - iStock - Getty Images

132 first-class wines like Cannonau and Ver- For more information visit the following mentino and accompanied by liqueurs website: www.sardegnaturismo.it like myrtle. All these ingredients greatly contribute to a very high quality of life.

Beautiful narrow alley in the old town of Alghero, © kkoszowski- iStock - Getty Images

133 MUSEUMS AND PERMANENT EXHIBITION AREAS

The U[zi Gallery, , © NicolasMcComber - E+ - Getty Images

ITALY’S GREAT MUSEUMS

U"zi Gallery, Florence Normal opening hours: Tuesday through www.u%zi.firenze.it Sunday, 8.15 a.m. to 6.50 p.m. Foremost home of Renaissance and Tickets: full price 16 € from March 1st to fourteenth century art, the U[zi Gallery October 31st, 10 € from November 1st to contains absolute masterpieces of Italian February 28th, reduced 8/5 € art. Info and reservations: phone Normal opening hours: Tuesday through +39.055.294883 Sunday, 8.15 a.m. to 6.50 p.m. Tickets: full price 20 € from March 1st to Capitoline Museums, Rome October 31st, 12 € from November 1st to www.museicapitolini.org February 28th, reduced 10/6 € Since 1734, the first public museum in There are integrated prices and special the world has been showing its visitors reductions the splendours of classical times and Info and reservations: phone opening its doors to exhibiting modern +39.055.294883. works during the following centuries. Today it is the kingpin of the “Sistema dei Palazzo Pitti, Florence Musei in Comune” (civic museums sys- www.u%zi.it/en/pitti-palace tem). The Florentine palace is the imposing Normal opening hours: Open daily from setting for one of the most varied collec- 9.30 a.m. to 7.30. p.m., tions of art in : painting, Tickets: full price 15 €, reduced 13 € sculpture, ceramics, goldsmithery… Info and reservations: phone every branch is found in it. +39.06.0608.

134 Vatican Museums, Rome Normal opening hours: every day except www.museivaticani.va Wednesday, from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. Van Gogh, Matisse, Michelangelo, Cara- Tickets: full price 12 €, reduced 8 € vaggio, Giotto, Da Vinci… The museums Info and reservations: cultivated by the Popes for five centuries +39.06.39967050. o'er visitors the possibility of enjoying the works of the greatest artists in Egyptian Museum, Turin history. www.museoegizio.it Normal opening hours: Monday through Champollion said: “The road to Memphis Saturday, 9.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. (closes and Thebes passes through Turin”. And at 6.00 p.m.) to be precise, it passes through this mu- Tickets: full price 17 €, reduced 8 € seum, the most important in the world There are integrated prices and special after Cairo. reductions Normal opening hours: Monday 9.00 Info: phone +39.06.69884676 a.m. to 2.00 p.m., Tuesday through Sun- Reservations: www.museivaticani.va day, 9.00 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. Borghese Gallery, Rome Tickets: full price 15 €, reduced 11€ www.galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it Info and reservations: The collection started by Scipione phone +39.011.4406903. Borghese at the beginning of the 17th century hosts masterpieces by Caravag- gio, Ra'aello, Titian as well as classical antiques and magnificent sculptures by Canova and Bernini. Normal opening hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. Tickets: full price 13 € + 2 € reservation fee, reduced 6.50 € There are integrated prices and special reductions. Advance booking is required. Info: phone +39.06.8413979. Reservations at number +39.06.32810

Brera Art Gallery, Milan www.pinacotecabrera.org Milan’s most important museum is an in- teresting treasure trove of works of art, particularly religious art, collected since the end of the 18th century. Normal opening hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 8.30 a.m. to 7.15 p.m. Tickets: full price 10 € reduced 7 € Info: phone +39.02.722631 Reservations at number +39.0292800361

Capodimonte Museum, Naples www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it The Farnese collection, together with the Bourbon collection, is housed in this splendid Neapolitan Palace. A particular- ly vast cultural o'er is completed by the area devoted to contemporary art.

135 THEATRES AND AUDITORIUMS

Ancient Greek Theatre in Taormina, Sicily, © michelangeloop - iStock - Getty Images

TEATRO ALLA SCALA IN MILAN The ruins of Ostia Antica and its theatre www.teatroallascala.org come to life every year to host a series of Founded in 1776, the Teatro alla Scala is summer events in their unique atmos- certainly the most famous Italian opera phere. house and its season’s opening night is an internationally important social event. PARCO DELLA MUSICA AUDITORIUM IN ROME LA FENICE THEATRE IN www.auditorium.com www.teatrolafenice.it All year round the futuristic “scarabs” of Splendidly risen from its ashes in 2003 Renzo Piano host a full calendar of mu- after it had been destroyed by fire 7 years sical events. before, the La Fenice Theatre is one of the places that has made the history of GREEK THEATRE IN TAORMINA Italian symphonic music. www.taormina-arte.it In addition to music, ballet and opera, ARENA IN the Greek Theatre is famous in particular www.arena.it for being the location of the Taormina Every year, from June to August, the are- Film Fest, a cinema event that brings na from Roman times, perfectly pre- world cinema to the banks of the Medi- served in Verona, hosts one of the most terranean every June. important opera festivals in the world. GREEK THEATRE IN SYRACUSE ROMAN THEATRE IN OSTIA ANTICA www.indafondazione.org www.ostianticateatro.com , , … the full

136 programme of the Greek Theatre in Syr- SAN CARLO IN NAPLES acuse every summer takes us back in www.teatrosancarlo.it time, with the same dramas staged now The historic theatre of the Neapolitan as thousands of years ago. city, built to the order of the Bourbons in 1737, is RAVELLO AUDITORIUM a wonderful place to enjoy the works of www.ravellofestival.com Neapolitan baroque melodrama. Niemeyer’s creation is the most recent and futuristic setting in Ravello, city of SFERISTERIO IN MACERATA music. In addition to the usual pro- www.sferisterio.it gramme, the auditorium hosts part of This unique pearl of Italian neoclassi- the famous Ravello Festival (from July to cism, built to host sports in the nine- September). teenth century, now hosts an interesting opera festival in its massive structure every summer.

Teatro alla Scala, Milan, © AndreaAstes - iStock - Getty Images

137 UNESCO SITES

PIEDMONT- Industrial City of the Twentieth Century This is the 54th and most recent Italian UNESCO site. The recognition was de- liberated during the work of the 42nd of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cul- tural Organization in July 2018. An im- portant recognition for a positive idea (the possible „humanization“ of industrial and social transformations, and their po- tential compatibility with the wellbeing of local communities) that the technical skills of great professionals have trans- formed in Ivrea into tangible achieve- ments. The Industrial City of Ivrea is an industrial and socio-cultural project of the Company founded in 1908 by Camil- lo Olivetti, progressively developed from the 1930s to the end of the 1960s.

PIEDMONT - Savoy Royal Palaces Serralunga d’Alba in the area, The fifteen Savoy buildings - villas, pal- © argalis - E+ - Getty Images aces and castles - located near Turin bear witness, with their magnificent ar- chitectural style, to the splendour of the most important Piedmont noble family. Almost all of the buildings are open to visitors, but with di'erent times and pro- cedures.

PIEDMONT - Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe- and Monferrato The hills of Langhe-Roero and Monfer- rato in Southern Piedmont are a vast ter- ritory spanning five di'erent winemaking areas, located between the river Po and the Ligurian Apennines. The exceptional beauty of these landscapes, which have been shaped by mankind as a result of the craft of winemaking, in the shade of the beautiful Grinanze Cavour Castle, are a living witness of the history and culture of wine, which is inextricably linked to the lives of the people of Pied- mont. The rows of vines, the types of crops and the production systems used , are all defining traits of this unique land- © phbcz - iStock - Getty Images scape that is constantly evolving in an

138 ongoing pursuit of balancing innovation and tradition. This constant pursuit of excellence and the heritage of traditional knowledge combined give us the exqui- site traditional wines Barolo, Asti Spu- mante, Barbera d’Asti, Nebbiolo, Mosca- to Bianco and Barbera, great wines of international renown. The whole area is just waiting to be explored with a broad range of wine tasting itineraries available.

PIEDMONT AND - Sacri Monti Located partly in each of the two regions, in the Prealpine area, the nine complexes covered by the UNESCO definition are a wonderful combination of architectural, spiritual and scenic values. Started in the 15th century they are still an important destination for believers and others. LOMBARDY - Like a gigantic casket, Monte San Gior- gio, on the border with , brings back memories of ancient times through its priceless heritage of fossils. A , , , © TomasSereda - iStock - Getty Images great many of the more than 10,000 ex- amples of fossil fauna and flora which came to light in this area divided between Italy and Switzerland, are still kept in the museums in the area.

LOMBARDY - Crespi d’Adda, the Industrial Village This real workers’ village, built at the end of the 19th century, springs from an illu- minated industrial mentality, careful about the balance between the quality of the products and the living conditions of the workers. As the village is still inhabit- ed it has no opening or closing hours and can be visited with or without a guide.

LOMBARDY - and Sabbioneta A little-known but very important ex- pression of the Renaissance. The cities of Mantua and Sabbioneta are the em- blem of the most significant Renaissance town planning concepts, without ne- glecting the exceptional value of each piece of architecture. Verona, the balcony of Juliet`s house, © LuigiConsiglio - iStock - Getty Images

139 LOMBARDY - The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci The sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Gra- zie, in Milan, contains the most famous and significant picture of Christ’s last supper, painted at the end of the 15th century by an artist who symbolizes the Renaissance period: Leonardo da Vinci. The work can be seen from Tuesday through Sunday, buying a ticket in ad- vance.

LOMBARDY - Because of its unique route and integra- tion with the environment it travels through, the Rhaetian Railway of the Al- bula and the Bernina has become some- thing much di'erent from an ordinary means of transport. In fact, the “little red train” that links Italy and Switzerland has acquired the unusual and well-deserved role of a tourist destination.

LOMBARDY - Rock art in , Andrea Palladio’s Villa Rotonda, The diary, written on stone, of the origins © ChiccoDodiFC - iStock - Getty Images of the cammunic civilization was the first Italian site to be included in the UNESCO Heritage Sites. The area’s rupestrian sites are included in seven natural or archae- ological parks: a visit to them reveals the ancient need of men to communicate their daily life, beliefs and rituals.

LOMBARDY, VENETO, - Venetian Works of Defence The “Venetian Works of Defence be- tween the 16th and 17th Centuries: Stato da Terra - Western Stato da Mar” are col- lected in a transnational site that includes the most extensive and innovative de- fense networks built by the Serenissima, wall structures with exceptional histori- cal, architectural and technological val- ue. The fortifications throughout the “Stato da Tera” protected the Republic of Venice from other European powers to the northwest while those of the “Stato da Mar” protected the commercial sea routes and ports vital to the expansion of the Republic of Venice. Three of the six sites declared UNESCO World Heritage ,Verona, the Patriarchal balcony Basilica,of Juliet`s house, Sites are within Italian borders: in Lom- © Emmeci74LuigiConsiglio - iStock - iStock - Getty - Getty Images Images bardy, Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

140 VENETO, , FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA - Dolomites The Dolomites, which became a Herit- age Site in 2009, are a group of moun- tains that are special from the geological point of view and unique for their beauty. Nowadays the Dolomites are popular with lovers of the mountains, skiers and naturalists.

VENETO - Botanic Gardens “It is the origin of all the botanical gar- dens in the world, a cradle of science and scientific exchange, serving as the basis for the understanding of the rela- tionship between nature and culture.” The description given by UNESCO gives a better idea than any other of the uniqueness of this site, which can be vis- ited all year round.

VENETO - Venice and its Lagoon There is no place in the world like Venice and probably no city as famous. Venice, its system of canals and its splendid ar- ,Dolomites, Cinque Giau Pass, Terre, Veneto, © MarkHatfieldTomasSereda - - iStock iStock - - Getty Getty Images Images chitecture have kept their charm intact over the centuries, and fully deserved to be included among the UNESCO sites.

VENETO - City of Verona With a very ancient structure capable of developing over the millennia without every losing its harmony, the city of Ro- meo and Juliet is one of Italy’s best ex- amples of town planning. The number of excellent examples of architecture and art add to its value.

VENETO - Vicenza and the Palladian Villas in the Veneto There are as many as 39 sites included in this definition: the constellation of villas designed by Andrea Palladio around the middle of the sixteenth century. This ar- chitectural experience was destined to influence European and North-American styles in the centuries to come. The villas can be visited, with di'erent opening hours and procedures, available on the spot.

Verona, the , Mosaics balcony in of the Juliet`s Mausoleum house, of Galla Placidia, © LuigiConsiglioVvoeVale - iStock - iStock - Getty - Getty Images Images

141 FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA LOMBARDY, UMBRIA, APULIA - Longobards in Italy. Places of the Power The serial property “Longobards in Italy. Places of the Power (568-774 A.D.)” spans the most important architectural heritage left by the Longobards in Italy. Spanning the peninsula from north to South, these were the domains of the most important dukedoms of the Lon- gobards, who formed the first “nation” that we could truly define as Italian. Carefully selected, the property repre- sents the quintessence of Longobard culture at its apex. During their time in Italy, the Longobards assimilated the culture and traditions of the Romans, the spiritual values of Christianity, and even Byzantine influences, which they magnif- icently blended with their Germanic val- ues, breathing life into a whole new and original culture during the late seventh century and the eighth century. Leaning Tower of Pisa, Vicenza, Andrea Palladio’s Villa Rotonda, © ekinyalgin - FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA, TRENTINO © ChiccoDodiFC - iStock - Getty ImagesiStock - Getty Images ALTO , VENETO, LOMBARDY, PIEDMONT - Prehistoric Pile dwellings around the Alps The area where excavations yielded the remains of prehistoric pile-dwell- ings (or stilt houses) spans the whole alpine range and encompasses 111 small individual sites located in Italy, Switzer- land, , and . Built from around 5000 to 500 B.C., these villag- es were located on the edges of lakes, rivers or wetlands. The humidity of these waterlogged sites provided ex- ceptional conservation conditions for organic materials such as wood, fabrics, as well as vegetable and bone scraps. The richness of the findings allowed for incredible insights into the world of early agrarian societies, a time when in Europe, men were developing agriculture and animal husbandry. Unfortunately these sites cannot be visited because they are located under water or layers of sediment. Because of this reason, the sites are interpreted in museums, archaeological parks and SanVerona, Gimignano, the balcony medieval of Juliet`s town house,towers, private collections, where artefacts from © StevanZZLuigiConsiglio - iStock - iStock - Getty - Getty Images Images the excavations are placed on exhibit

142 and reconstructions of the prehistoric villages are put on display.

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA - Aquileia the Ruins and the Patriarchal Basilica Aquileia can boast of its origin as a pro- tagonist of the Roman Empire. The city, an important port city as well as a bul- wark against the barbarian invasions, was founded in 181 B.C. and its original form has remained almost intact. The perfect- ly preserved mosaics in its Basilica (11th century) are of exceptional value.

LIGURIA - Portovenere, and Islands Cultural and human values interweave with those related to the scenery of this exceptional corner of Italy. The area be- tween Cinque Terre and Portovenere still bears witness to a successful balance between man and the environment, consisting of landscapes and customs that have never changed over time. Rome,Dolomites, Imperial Giau Forums, Pass, Veneto, © RudyBalaskoTomasSereda - - iStock iStock - - Getty Getty Images Images - The Strade Nuove (new roads) and the Palazzi dei Rolli complex, The Ligurian city can boast a town plan- ning system unique of its kind: more than one hundred historic buildings built by the nobility of the sixteenth and seven- teenth centuries on the basis of lots drawn by the public authorities. A long catalogue of exceptional aesthetic and historic value, which is well worth seeing.

EMILIA ROMAGNA - , a Renais- sance city, and the Po Delta Ferrara: a city that was able to evolve without losing its identity and the archi- tectural delights that the Este family started bestowing on it in the 13th cen- tury. Its old town centre and the Po Delta have been recognized by UNESCO: a landscape in which culture and nature mutually enhance each other.

EMILIA ROMAGNA - Cathedral, Torre Civica bell tower and Piazza Grande, The religious, civic and cultural spheres Verona,Tivoli, Hadrian’s the balcony Villa, of Juliet`s house, © LuigiConsigliosantirf - iStock -- iStockGetty Images- Getty Images all converge around the Cathedral of

143 Modena, which is regarded as a basic feature of the evolution of Romanesque architecture. The building, built in the 12th century, has an incredible figurative wealth, consisting of statues and sym- bols of exceptional symbolic and artistic value.

EMILIA ROMAGNA - The Paleochristian monuments, Ravenna Eight monuments built in the 6th and 7th centuries have survived until our times, together with their exceptional mosaics. Eight religious buildings that take us back to just before the golden age of the Christian religion, in the presence of Byzantine art in all its glory.

EMILIA ROMAGNA, ABRUZZO, LAZIO, BASILICATA, APULIA - The Ancient Beech Forests Ten ancient Italian beech forests which extend from Emilia Romagna to Basilica- ta are recognized by the UNESCO World Herculaneum, House of Neptune and Amphitrite, Heritage for their exceptional naturalistic © RPMGsas - iStock - Getty Images value and the incredible biodiversity that characterizes them. The Italian Ancient Beech forests protected by UNESCO fall within the context of the transnational environmental site of the „Primeval for- ests of the Carpathian beech and other parts of Europe“. The ten naturalistic sites protected by UNESCO are Casenti- nesi forests in Emilia Romagna; the for- ests of the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park in the villages of Villavallel- onga, Lecce in the Marsi, Pescasseroli and Opi in Abruzzo; the forests of Monte Cimino and Monte Raschio in Lazio; the Umbra Forest in the in Puglia; the Cozzo Ferriero Forest in Basilicata in the Pollino National Park.

TUSCANY - Florence, Old Town Centre When you say Florence you think of the Renaissance. The old town centre of the Tuscan capital is recognized by UNESCO as much for its material value as its sym- bolic ones: an exceptional number of masterpieces of art and architecture blend with a cultural climate that has Paestum,Verona, the Temple balcony of Hera,of Juliet`s house, been influencing the whole of Europe © bluejayphotoLuigiConsiglio - - iStock iStock - - Getty Getty Images Images since the 15th century.

144 TUSCANY - , Old Town Centre It is thanks to Pope Pius II that we can enjoy the beauties of this little town in Val D’Orcia. The pope, who came from Pienza, decided to transform the place into the “ideal town”. Even today Pienza is still emblematic of the Renaissance concept of town planning.

TUSCANY - Pisa, Piazza del Duomo The image of Pisa is indissolubly linked with the fascination of its leaning tower. A blend of cultures and di'erent archi- tectural experiences, the complex con- sisting of the four monuments located in Piazza del Duomo can be visited all the year round.

TUSCANY - , Old Town Centre In Val d’Elsa, in the heart of Tuscany, stand the towers of this little town of very ancient origins. San Gimignano was founded by the Etruscans, while its de- velopment is linked with via Francigena, Positano,Dolomites, Amalfi Giau Pass,Coast, Veneto, © MilenaTomasSereda Pigdanowicz-Fideraf - iStock - Getty - iStockImages - Getty Images which passed through it in mediaeval times.

TUSCANY - Siena, Old Town Centre The great value of Siena, like other Italian cities listed by UNESCO, can be summed up in its e'ective integration between the architecture, the urban layout and their environment. Siena and its tradi- tions are an example of rare excellence in that sense.

TUSCANY - Val d’Orcia It’s just like walking personally into a Re- naissance painting when you pass through the magnificent settings of the Val d’Orcia, an expression of the excep- tional sensitivity applied in the 14th and 15th centuries for redesigning the Italian landscape.

TUSCANY - and Gardens in Tuscany Twelve villas and two gardens spread across the Tuscan landscape make up this site which bears testimony to the in- fluence the Medici family exerted over Verona,Alberobello, the balconyTrulli houses, of Juliet`s house, © LuigiConsiglioannavee - iStock - iStock - Getty - GettyImages Images modern European culture through its

145 patronage of the arts. The villas were built using an innovative construction system in harmony with nature, and were developed to be dedicated to lei- sure, the arts and knowledge. They em- body a new type of princely residence that di'ered from both the farms owned by rich Florentines of the period and from the military might of baronial cas- tles. The sober elegance and their con- nection with their magnificent grounds and gardens helped develop the appre- ciation of beauty and landscape charac- teristic to Humanism and the Renais- sance.

THE MARCHES - , Old Town Centre A little jewel, able to integrate the Middle Ages and the Renaissance harmonically, the city of Urbino played a leading role on the Italian cultural scene in the past. The number of masterpieces you can see when you stroll around the city is re- Vicenza, Andrea Palladio’s Villa Rotonda, ally amazing. Matera,© ChiccoDodiFC © Ladiras -- iStockiStock -- GettyGetty ImagesImages UMBRIA - , Basilica di San Franc- esco and other Franciscan sites The city of Assisi is an exceptional cor- nerstone of artistic, architectural and spiritual values. Seat of the sanctuary dedicated to Saint Francis, its Basilica contains the frescoes that are consid- ered to have confirmed the birth of Ital- ian art, by artists like Giotto, Cimabue and Martini.

LATIUM - Old Town Centre of Rome This old town centre, one of the most famous in the world, certainly needs no introduction. You can stroll through an- cient Rome with or without a guide, and feel the beating heart of a unique civili- zation.

LATIUM - Etruscan necropolises in Cerveteri and Tarquinia The two cities of the dead are probably the most important source of informa- tion concerning the ancient , its daily life and its art. These CathedralVerona, the of balcony Monreale, of Juliet`s house, sites, with their unique and mysterious © fauk74LuigiConsiglio - iStock - - iStock Getty -Images Getty Images charm, can be visited all the year round.

146 LATIUM - Villa d’Este The Villa d’Este in Tivoli, with its palace, garden, fountains, nymphs and grottoes, is one of the most magn ificent examples of and 16th-century gardens. Defined by ter- races, staircases, grand slopes and promenades, the stunning garden evokes the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and constitutes a much-copied model for European gardens in the mannerist and baroque styles. The “100 Fountains” lining the longest promenade also make a strong impact on the scenography, and contributed to the gardens’ turns as the background for several films - such as the banquet scene in William Wyler’s “Ben Hur”.

LATIUM - Hadrian’s Villa Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli, designed to be a home for the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century A.D., is a an exceptional monumental living complex that even today continues to display the lavishness RagusaDolomites, Ibla Giauin the Pass, Noto Veneto, Valley, © elxeneize-TomasSereda iStock - iStock - Getty - Getty Images Images and enormous power of Ancient Rome. The magnificent display of Roman luxury combines the best elements of the ar- chitectural heritage of the ancient Medi- terranean world in the form of an ‘ideal city’. This villa, that is open all year round, is an absolute must-see excursion while you are visiting Rome.

CAMPANIA - Naples Old Town Centre More than twenty centuries of history and of architectural and artistic styles are condensed in this fascinating city. Its ar- tistic and intellectual energy has had a great influence in the development of all Europe and it can still be felt in the tur- moil of its squares and the magnificence of its buildings.

CAMPANIA - Archaeological areas of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Torre Annunziata Preserved almost intact after the erup- tion of Vesuvius in year 79 A.D., the ancient cities of Pompeii and Hercu- laneum, as well as the buildings of (Torre Annunziata), allow visi- Verona,,the balcony of Juliet`s with Lipari house, in the background, © LuigiConsiglioFlavio Vallenari - - iStock E+ - Getty - Getty Images Images tors to project themselves personally

147 into the classical age and learn about the with the perfection and mysterious sym- habits and customs of daily life in ancient bolism of its shapes. times. BASILICATA - The Sassi in Matera CAMPANIA - Costiera Amalfitana There are not many places in the world A Symbol of a Mediterranean landscape, that bear witness, like Matera, to man’s the Amalfi Coast combines exceptional ability to adapt to the harshness of his cultural value with natural value in one of environment. In fact it was the local the most famous areas of Italy, a real shepherds in the 10th century who got symbol of Italianism. the idea of digging these simple dwell- ings out of the rock, creating a complex CAMPANIA - Reggia di Caserta, the capable of taking in the whole slope of Park, the Vanvitelli aqueduct and the the mountain. San Leucio Complex The magnificent project was the result of SICILY - Agrigento, archaeological area the craving for grandeur of King Charles The Agrigento archaeological area gives of Bourbon, who was determined to us the feeling of a city of remote origins make Caserta into a new innovative Eu- and magnificent size, while its group of ropean capital. Vanvitelli used all his ge- Doric temples survives over the millen- nius in designing a villa regarded as Italy’s nia to show the splendour of the part of Versailles; now it can be visited every day the Mediterranean area once known as except Tuesday. Magna Graecia. SICILY - Arab-Norman Palermo and the CAMPANIA - Parco Nazionale del Cathedral Churches of Cefalú and Cilento e del Vallo di Diano with the Monreale archaeological sites of Paestum and The serial heritage site “Arab-Norman Velia and the Certosa di Padula Palermo” consists of a set of nine indi- The synthesis of the Mediterranean land- vidual sites, comprising monuments and scape: this is what you could call this churches; the first seven located in area that, among its ilexes, olive trees Palermo itself whilst to complete the and pines, guards significant prehistoric itinerary and visit the last two treasures it settlements, thousand year old temples is necessary to go on to Cefalù and and baroque buildings. The Certosa can Monreale. The Royal Palace (aka Nor- be visited every day except Tuesday. man Palace - Palazzo dei Normanni) with its Palatine Chapel, containing Byz- APULIA - The Trulli in Alberobello antine mosaics of rare beauty, the Zisa Building techniques that date back to Palace; the Church of San Giovanni deg- prehistoric times. The trulli are an exam- li Eremiti, the church of Santa Maria ple of a method of building and a way of dell’Ammiraglio (or „della Martorana“), living in the area that can last for thou- the , Ponte sands of years without any change in its dell’Ammiraglio, which used to span the usefulness. Their white walls speak of ancient course of the Oreto river, Paler- civilisations that no longer exist while in- mo Cathedral, Monreale Cathedral and side they accommodate inhabitants and Cefalù Cathedral, all with their extraordi- visitors of our times. nary depictions of Cristo Pantocratore, famous throughout the world, are the APULIA - Andria, Castel del Monte places reminiscent of the multicultural 1240: Frederic II Hohenstaufen of Swa- Western-Islamic-Byzantine harmonious bia had Castel del Monte built: a real syncretism, cultural heritage of a unique stone compendium of mathematical, ar- historical period in the religious and po- chitectural, philosophical and astronom- litical life of the island. ical knowledge. Since then the Castle has never ceased to amaze its guests

148 SICILY - Piazza Armerina, Villa Romana SICILY - Mount Etna Park del Casale Located on the Eastern coast, at 3,350 A Roman villa built between the 3rd and metres a.s.l., Mount Etna is not only Sici- 4th centuaries A.D. and perfectly pre- ly’s highest mountain; it is also one of the served in its original structure and the world’s most active volcanoes. Its erup- splendour of its floors, for which tions constantly shape the landscape, it is really considered to be a unique ex- which spans large deserted areas cov- ample. ered in igneous rock and important eco- systems with their own endemic plant SICILY- Syracuse and the rupestrian and wildlife. The diverse and accessible Necropolis of Pantalica range of volcanic features such as sum- From the rupestrian necropolis down to mit craters, cinder cones, lava flows and our times, passing through Greek, Ro- the Valle de Bove depression have made man and - much more modern - ba- the site a prime destination for research roque influence, Syracuse has preserved and training of vulcanologists. The whole in its territory the unmistakeable and area can be considered a natural labora- magnificent traces of the cultures that tory for the study of ecological and bio- lived there. Three thousand years of his- logical processes. Inside the Park, in the tory contained in a city with thousands areas below the main volcanic cone, of aspects. there are a number of hiking trails of un- paralleled beauty. SICILY - Val di Noto, baroque towns Noto, , Ragusa, … SARDINIA - Barumini, the southern Sicily contains a constellation Nuraghic Village of places linked with the curvaceous The most complete nuraghe in Sardinia lines of the late baroque. An unmistaka- shows traces of the basalt of the nuraghic ble style that distinguishes this area, har- culture, one of the most mysterious in moniously linking the towns in this love- the whole Mediterranean area. More ly corner of Italy. than three and half thousand years of history have passed through these pe- SICILY - Aeolian Islands rimeters, which we can still clearly make The islands that, according to Greek my- out. thology, gave shelter to Aeolus, god of the wind, are an exceptional “manual” for For more information visit the following geologists and students of volcanic ac- website: tivity. These pearls of the Mediterranean http://www.italia.it/en/travel-ideas/ have also preserved valuable traces of unesco-world-heritage-sites.html the more than millennial presence of man.

149 NATIONAL PARKS

Arcipelago di La Maddalena, the famous pink beach of the Budelli island, © alanphillips - E+ - Getty Images

Abruzzo Latium and Molise shade of the typical silver fir trees you www.parcoabruzzo.it can see views that extend to the neigh- Located in the heart of central Italy, this bouring protected areas. is an international model for the protec- tion of its natural and environmental Appennino Tosco-Emiliano heritage, for which it received the Euro- www.parcoappennino.it pean Diploma of Protected Areas from The mountain landscapes that separate the Council of Europe. If you are lucky Tuscany from Emilia Romagna are not you might see some of its most famous only a wonderful sight. The area o'ers inhabitants: the bear, the wolf, the eagle visitors a wide variety of typical products or the deer. and high quality services for people who want to spend quiet periods of relaxation Alta Murgia, Apulia surrounded by nature. www.parcoaltamurgia.gov.it With its canyons and its karstic sinkholes, Arcipelago di La Maddalena, Sardinia the Parco dell’Alta Murgia has got very www.lamaddalenapark.it impressive scenery only a few kilometres This geomarine park, created to protect away from the Adriatic Sea. Excursions in one of the most incredible environments its hinterland are not particularly chal- of Sardinia, is a kind of natural Garden of lenging and they are well supported by Eden. The many endemic species and the organization of the agency. the fact that there are not many people preserve the sensation of having discov- Appenino Lucano - Val d’Agri – ered a place out of this world. Lagonegrese, Basilicata www.parcoappenninolucano.it Arcipelago Toscano The peasant imprint of man continues to www.islepark.it live side by side with pristine nature in It- Once dominated by mining work, the is- aly’s youngest natural park, set between lands of the now the parks of Pollino and Cilento. In the form the biggest geomarine park in the

150 Mediterranean. The extraordinary envi- than 500 thousand years and its history ronmental wealth of the islands can be blends with Greek and Roman mytholo- experienced and enjoyed by taking ad- gy. As well as a wonderful scenic and en- vantage of a wide range of outdoor ac- vironmental heritage, the area contains tivities. sites considered by UNESCO to be Her- itage of Humanity: Paestum and the Asinara, Sardinia Certosa di Padula. www.parcoasinara.org Isola di Ercole, Isola Sinuosa, Isola del Di- Cinque Terre, Liguria avolo… of its thousand names Asanara www.parconazionale5terre.it has kept the one that celebrates its most The most typical scenery of this park, famous inhabitants: the albino donkeys, formed by thousands of kilometres of symbol of this island and a unique spe- terraces overhanging the sea, bears wit- cies. ness to man’s ancient ability to over- come the harshness of the land. It was Aspromonte, Calabria just this equilibrium between man and www.parcoaspromonte.gov.it nature that made this park a UNESCO The area is crisscrossed by a thick web of site. torrents, streams and waterfalls as well as by the many people that have lived Circeo, Latium there over the centuries. The Park has www.parcocirceo.it some of the most beautiful Calabrian It has the task of holding the last remains towns, which overlook the Mediterrane- of the , most of which an Sea and protect the hinterland and area was reclaimed during the early 20th coasts of this lovely region. century. For this reason it has a large number of quite rare animal and vegeta- Cilento e Vallo di Diano, Campania ble species and has been included in the www.cilentoediano.it “UNESCO Man and Biosphere” areas. The area of the Parco del Cilento e Vallo di Diano has been inhabited for more

Foreste Casentinesi National Park, © anzeletti - iStock - Getty Images

151 Gargano National Park, Baia delle Zagare, © Poike - iStock - Getty Images

Dolomiti Bellunesi, Veneto and junipers cover big stretches of this www.dolomitipark.it land, rich in history and tradition. With its 18 peaks higher than 3000 me- tres, the Park has one of the most im- Gargano, Apulia pressive pieces of natural scenery in the www.parcogargano.it world, worthy of being included among Ilexes, pine trees, olive trees, and orange the UNESCO Heritage of Humanity Sites. and almond trees line the Gargano One of the good things about visiting the promontory until it meets the clear sea. park is the extensive network of access Thanks to its natural setting and its old points, information centres and an inter- picturesque villages, the Gargano park esting calendar of events. can be considered emblematic of the Mediterranean landscape. Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona, Campigna Gran Paradiso, Valle d’Aosta www.parcoforestecasentinesi.it www.pngp.it Between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, This is Italy’s first national park, created in where the still young river Arno flows, lie 1922 with the main purpose of protect- the Casentini Forests, among the oldest ing the ibex from extinction and that an- in Europe. The Camaldoli Hermitage, imal is now the symbol of this protected founded in 1012, and the La Verna Sanc- area. Because of the attention it pays to tuary join with the forests as millennial sustainable development, the Gran witnesses of time. Paradiso park was awarded the Europe- an Diploma of Protected Areas. Gennargentu, Sardinia www.parcogennargentu.it Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga, Abruzzo Protector of the natural value of the Sar- www.gransassolagapark.it dinian hinterland, the Gennargentu Park The Gran Sasso park has the highest has flora that is very typical of the Medi- peak (the Corno Grande) and the only terranean maquis. Ilexes, chestnut trees glacier (the Calderone) in the Apennines

152 as well as a considerable amount of tra- tory. Its area includes the ancient Ita- ditions and important historic-architec- lo-Albanian arbëreschë community with tural traces, which are well worth seeing its centuries-old store of Greek-Byzan- for yourself. tine traditions.

Majella, Abruzzo Sila, Calabria www.parcomajella.it www.parcosila.it This is the reign of the wolf and the bear, Between the parks of Pollino and Aspro- which live here permanently. But it is monte, the Sila Park has wonderful natu- also a very mountainous area where ral scenery, sloping down towards the karstic rocks create spectacular views: Tyrrhenian Sea, leaving the sight of the The Cavallone and Piccioni caves, ac- Aeolian Islands and Mount Etna on the cessible to the public, are an opportunity horizon, and towards the Ionian. The for an unforgettable excursion. most important inhabitant of this area is the Sila wolf, an autochthonous species Monti Sibillini of which about one hundred individuals www.sibillini.net have survived. Situated partly in the Marches and partly in Umbria, the Sibillini Park includes Stelvio - Stilfserjoch, Trentino-Alto mythological and rural traditions, natural Adige, Lombardy endemic species and spiritual places in www.stelviopark.it its area. All in a park that has made sus- The great altitude variations in the Stelvio tainable development its slogan. Park enable you to admire high and low Alpine scenery in the heart of the central Pollino, Basilicata and Calabria Alps. Each of the three areas that make www.parcopollino.it up this protected area is crossed by a Italy’s biggest national park, set between thick network of paths, of di'erent di[- the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, has culty and type, just waiting for you to unique natural and cultural riches, de- travel on them. posited during thousands of years of his-

Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park, Campo Imperatore, © ROMAOSLO - iStock - Getty Images

153 Val Grande, Piedmont Vesuvio, Campania www.parcovalgrande.it www.parconazionalevesuvio.it The biggest wild area in Italy, which has The Vesuvius Park protects a unique never even seen asphalt: in Val Grande area, dominated by the volcano that you can only travel along the paths and gives it its name and its environmental cart-tracks used for centuries by shep- characteristics. A system of paths was herds and woodsmen. The wilderness created in 2003 so that you can see the needs to be visited prudently, accompa- various kinds of scenery in an area that nied by expert guides. is sometimes luxuriant and sometimes lunar.

An ibex in the Gran Paradiso National Park, © ueuaphoto - iStock - Getty Images

154 USEFUL INFORMATION

Getting around by train is a very comfortable way of exploring Italy, © Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane SpA

BY AIR tween cities are numerous and there are Getting to Italy frequent services from Rome and Milan The main intercontinental and interna- to all the other Italian airports. The broad tional arrival points in Italia are Leonardo network of connections also connects da Vinci airport in Rome Fiumicino and the peninsula with Sicily and Sardinia and Malpensa Airport in Milan, but almost all with the minor islands. Italy has nearly of the many Italian airports have interna- forty medium and small airports, distrib- tional connections. uted through all the regions (except There are plenty of flights, both by low- Molise and Basilicata). cost and traditional airlines, and they cover a large number of destinations. It- BY TRAIN aly is connected by air with most Euro- Getting to Italy pean countries and with every continent. The charm of travelling by train never You can obtain more information about fades if the destination is Italy. The cur- routes, timetables, prices and availability rent services for travelling either by day on the sites of the main and low-cost or by night between Italy and the other airlines. Nearly all the airports are served European countries are distinguished for by an extensive network of taxis, buses high quality, shorter travel times and ex- and trains, so that you can arrive at your cellent comfort while travelling. It is ad- final destination quite comfortably. visable (and sometimes obligatory) to book seats. You have to punch your tick- Getting around in Italy et before boarding the carriage, other- It is easy to travel by air in Italy, thanks to wise you will be fined. Some internation- the wide range of flights and carriers ex- al railway companies also o'er car isting in the country. Connections be- transport service. Every day many inter-

155 national trains arrive in Italy, crossing the companies connect the main European frontier and connecting the Peninsula ports with Italy. The ticket prices vary ac- with the main cities in Austria, , cording to the weight of the means of and Eastern Europe. transport you are taking with you. For more information: www.trenitalia.com, www.italotreno.it Getting around in Italy For information about trains from The Italian islands are an ideal place to France: www.sncf.com spend a holiday. Discovering Sicily, Sar- For information about trains from dinia, the Tuscan Archipelago, Lipari, Germany: www.reiseauskunft.bahn.de, Lampedusa and Stromboli, to mention www.dbitalia.it just a few, is certainly a unique experi- For information about trains from Swit- ence. zerland: www.sbb.ch Many ferry companies sail on di'erent and varied routes all the year round. Big Getting around in Italy ships ensure connections with the main Italy has a vast railway network, which Italian islands, Sardinia and Sicily. connects almost the whole country, and The main departure points for getting to plenty of regional, Intercity and high- the island of Sardinia are Genoa, Livorno, speed trains. Trenitalia operates 95% of Civitavecchia and Naples. To get to Sicily, the routes and guarantees as many as to the ports of Palermo and Messina, 7,000 trains a day, almost half of which however, it is better to leave from Na- travel during peak hours. There are vari- ples, or from Villa San Giovanni in Cal- ous types of trains: local ones, Direct abria, a municipality that stretches along (DIR), Regional (R) and Interregional (IR), the famous Strait of Messina. Many ships which stop at all the intermediate sta- sail by night and travellers can either tions, and faster, long-distance ones, In- choose to spend the night in a cabin or tercity (IC) and Eurostar (ES), which only book an armchair on the covered decks. stop in the big cities. Then there are the You can get to the smaller islands by fer- High-Speed Eurostar Italia Trains, known ry and . as the Freccia Rossa (red arrow), which You can take your vehicles with you on can travel as fast as 300 km/h. When you almost all the ships and ferries, paying have bought your ticket, before getting the basic fare plus an extra. It should be on the train, you have to punch the tick- remembered that many companies give et in one of the yellow machines, of discounts and very special o'ers if you which there are many near the tracks. book in advance. For timetables and information you are advised to consult the Ferrovie dello Sta- BY BUS to (State railways), please visit the foll- Getting to Italy lowing websites: www.trenitalia.com, You can travel through the Alps and get www.italotreno.it to Italy on board comfortable buses. Eu- rolines is a consortium of the main Euro- BY SHIP pean companies; it has information of- Getting to Italy fices in the main cities and more than Getting to Italy by sea is a not-to-be- thirty departure points all over Italy. The missed experience: on the waves of the buses have all the comforts necessary Mediterranean, on board of comfortable for the journey and, obviously, call at the ships, by the oldest and most fascinating big cities, like Milan, Rome and Florence. mode of travel. Before leaving, however, you need to Getting around in Italy find out how long the crossing takes and The cities, towns and villages of Italy are about the international routes that stop connected by e[cient interurban trans- at Italian ports. port services, which allow you to travel Many national and international shipping and discover the country, its attractions

156 Many of Italy’s streets o'er magnificent panoramic views, © Dainela - iStock - Getty Images and its beauty spots. What is more, you BY CAR OR MOTORCYCLE can travel all over the country using the Getting to Italy various passenger transport lines. The extensive network of European mo- The many companies existing in Italy torways and the existence of direct provide both local connections between crossings facilitate access to Italy by car small country villages and small and me- or motorcycle. You can get to the penin- dium cities as well as faster travel be- sula from Austria, France, Switzerland tween the big cities. Usually, when it is a and Slovenia. case of getting to minor places or little The main entry points, open all the year country villages, it is cheaper and more round, are the Mont Blanc tunnel, which, comfortable to travel by bus than by from Chamonix, connects France to the train.You can consult the departure and A5 motorway for Turin and Milan, the arrival timetables in local information of- Gran San Bernardo tunnel, which con- fices or with the Aziende di Promozione nects Switzerland to the A5 motorway Turistica (tourist agencies) and the U%ci also, the Brenner Pass through Austria, d’Informazione Turistica Locali (local which joins up with the A22 motorway to tourist information o[ces. In the bigger Bologna. The Alpine tunnels are often cities you can buy tickets at the o'ces of closed during the winter and sometimes the companies or at travel agencies. In even in autumn and spring due to snow. small places, however, it is easier to con- For information: www.autostrade.it tact co' shops, or even the driver. It is not necessary to book seats but it is ad- Getting around in Italy visable for long or night journeys. An excellent network of motorways, in- For any information regarding destina- dicated by green signs, shortens the dis- tions, timetables and prices you can tance between the twenty Italian re- consult either the portals or the o[cial gions: 3,408 kilometres, which ensure sites of the various companies. e'ective mobility and territorial commu- nication, in complete safety.

157 Two main motorways connect Northern sage on ships or ferries and, furthermore and Southern Italy: the Autostrada del you are allowed into some of the limited Sole (the A1, which passes by Milan, Bo- tra[c areas in the big cities. You must logna, Florence, Rome and Naples) and wear a helmet. the Adriatica (the A14, which connects Bologna, Ancona, Pescara, Bari and Assistance Taranto). At any time of the day, assistance for On the motorways you have to pay a toll. motorists in emergencies is guaranteed You can pay in cash or with a credit card. by ACI (the Italian automobile club), a Or, instead, there are faster methods, like federation of 106 provincial automobile the “Viacard”or “Telepass” cards. The Via- clubs, which represents and protects the card is a magnetic card, which can be interests of Italian motoring. You can used at the automatic or manual gates, phone 803.116 or visit the ACI o[cial or even handed to the collector. The site. The radio o'ers assistance regard- Telepass is the most practical and fastest ing tra[c conditions: in fact the three automatic payment system, based on RAI channels broadcast the “Onda verde” remote electronic recognition and deb- news bulletin (about every 30 minutes), ited to the user: it makes it possible to while in the stretches served you can carry out the financial transactions with- tune into 103.3 MHz on Isoradio, which out stopping at the tollgate, thus speed- broadcasts good music as well as road ing up tra[c and reducing fuel con- news. sumption. For any information related to weather Petrol stations conditions, toll charges, or tra[c you Italy has an extensive network of petrol can stop at the “ Punti Blu” (blue point of- distribution stations (lead-free, diesel) on fices) situated at all the motorway junc- both the motorway network and sec- tions, contact the o[cial site of the Soci- ondary roads. età Autostrade, or phone the Viabilità Call Centre, open all day, on 840-042121. Hire In addition to the motorways, an exten- It is very simple to hire a car but it is bet- sive national road system, indicated by ter to enquire in advance about the re- blue signs, connects all the regions or quirements of the various agencies. Usu- the towns of di'erent regions. With no ally the driver must be over 23 years old toll charges, one or two lanes, the sec- (sometimes 25), but some companies ondary roads o' panoramas and lovely hire even to younger people. Then you views that cannot be seen from the mo- need a credit card and a driving licence. torway: they are not as fast but the jour- Citizens from non-EU countries must ney is definitely more interesting. also hold an international driving licence For information: www.autostrade.it, (IDP). www.aci.it Parking Italy by motorcycle Parking areas in the big cities are marked Italy is also the home of motorcycling o' by lines of various colours: usually tours. In summer the roads are full of en- white lines indicate free parking, yellow thusiasts, attracted by breathtaking lines mean reserved parking (residents, scenery along the coastal stretches, on disabled, taxis …), while blue lines mean the slopes of hills or tree-lined mountain paid parking, the cost of which varies ac- roads. There are many itineraries sug- cording to the town, the area, and the gested by public or private bodies, which time band. help you to discover the peninsula, from North to South, from the sea to the Taxis mountains. When travelling by motorcy- In Italy authorized taxis are white and cle you do not need to book your pas- must bear the word “Taxi” written on the

158 roof. They must also have a meter that DOCUMENTS REQUIRED FOR DRIVING shows the cost of the trip in real time, to IN ITALY which, depending on the case, extra Driving licences issued by any State be- costs are added for luggage, holidays, longing to the European Union are valid night hours, out-of-town runs (like in the in all the EU territory, and therefore also case of trips to airports). To find a taxi in Italy. you have to go to the special areas, marked by yellow lines or by an orange If you have a licence issued by a non-EU notice, or phone the radio-taxi numbers, State, you must have an international which vary from town to town. driving licence or a sworn (o[cial) trans- lation of your licence. To be able to drive BY BICYCLE in Italy you must be over 18 years of age. Italy is a place worth getting to know, for You drive on the right and overtake on keen cyclists and people who have cho- the left. According to the new Highway sen the bicycle as their main mode of Code, in force since 01/07/2003, all mo- travel. In fact you can take a bicycle on tor vehicles must have their dipped all trains marked with a logo showing the headlights, side lights and number plate outline of a bicycle. lights lit on any road outside the town The cheapest way of travelling with your and on the motorway. In town you can bicycle is to buy, even from the auto- decide whether to keep them lit or not. matic machines, a separate ticket for the However the obligation to have the lights bicycle, which is valid for 24 hours from on is valid in town also for all two-wheel the time of issue. If, however, you decide vehicles (mopeds and motor- cycles). to make a trip around any of the big or The horn should not be used in built-up small Italian islands travelling is even areas, except for emergencies. easier: in general the ferries and ships of- Trams and trains have precedence. fer free transport for bicycles. The use of seatbelts in the front and in the back (if the vehicle has them) is com- ENTRY DOCUMENTS pulsory and both driver and the passen- All that citizens of European Union gers can be fined. On roads with two or countries that have signed the Schengen more lanes you should use the free lane agreement need is an identity card or a furthest to the right; the left lane or lanes valid passport. Citizens from all other are only for overtaking. countries must show their passport at When you come to a crossroads you the frontier and, where necessary, have must give precedence to vehicles com- an entry visa, which must show the dura- ing from your right unless otherwise in- tion of their stay and their place of desti- dicated. nation. You can apply for a visa at the Motorcycles with a cylinder capacity of Italian consulates in your country of res- less than 150 are not allowed to travel on idence, specifying the reason for the motorways in any circumstances. A hel- travel (visas are usually issued 90 days met is absolutely compulsory for per- after the application). When you reach sons driving mopeds and motorcycles of your destination, and if you are not stay- any cylinder capacity. ing at a hotel or accommodation facility, you must register at the police head- What are the speed limits? quarters within 8 days of your arrival. For Cars and Motorcycles (over 150 cylinder tourists staying at hotels, or other types capacity): urban areas 50 km/h; second- of tourist accommodation, registration is ary outside-town roads 90 km/h; main done automatically by the facility’s re- outside-town roads 110 km/h; motor- ception. ways 130 km/h. If there is rain or snow the limit goes down to 110 km/h on motorways and 90 km/h on main outside-town roads.

159 Moreover, to make sure that speed limits Emergency numbers are complied with, many “autovelox” A modern and e[cient network of oper- electronic controls have been installed ations centres of the various police forc- along all the Italian road and motorway es and of emergency centres connects, network. in a single integrated system, all the po- Cars with a trailer or caravan: In urban lice forces, bodies and agencies respon- areas the speed limit is 50 km/h; on sec- sible for responding to emergency calls ondary outside-town roads 70 km/h; on throughout the country. Contacting this main outside-town roads 70 km/h; on network is simple and fast. motorways 80 km/h. All you have to do is call the national Camper caravans weighing more than emergency numbers, which are well 3.5 tons but less than 12 tons: urban are- known and easy to remember. as 50 km/h; secondary outside-town roads 80 km/h; main outside-town POLIZIA DI STATO (State police): 113 roads 80 km/h; motorways 100 km/h. This is the single national number for Compulsory equipment in the vehicle: every kind of emergency, from reports of warning triangle; spare tyre; first-aid kit theft, robberies or assaults, to accidents (recommended); extinguisher (recom- and health emergencies. mended). This number connects with the State Po- You must have safety jackets and reflect- lice network of operations centres, op- ing braces in the vehicle and they must erational 24 hours a day 7 days a week. be worn by drivers of vehicles that are stopped on the road, outside built-up ar- CARABINIERI (Police): 112 eas, by night or when visibility is poor. When you dial 112 the police operations You must also wear them when you go centres are activated. Since 1991 the Eu- to place the warning triangle on the road ropean Union introduced 112 as a single after a breakdown, or if you get out of a emergency number for all the Member car stopped on the emergency lane. States, precisely to facilitate tourists and Insurance: you must have third party in- foreigners when travelling around the surance. continent. For this very reason an an- People coming from abroad are advised swering service in a foreign language ex- to have the green card: an insurance that ists for callers to this number. can even be taken out at the frontier and is valid for 15, 30 or 45 days. VIGILI DEL FUOCO (Fire Brigade): 115 Alcohol and driving: in Italy the limit of In case of fire, sighting of smoke or gas alcohol in the blood for driving is 0.5 leaks you can also call the Fire Brigade grammes per litre, more or less the same directly; it is present all over the country as the rest of Europe. and acts promptly even in the event of earthquakes or other calamities. Useful and emergency numbers: State Police: 113 MEDICAL EMERGENCIES - Fire Brigade: 115 AMBULANCES: 118 Emergency and medical emergency ser- When you call this number from any- vice: 118. where in Italy (including the islands) the network for medical assistance and for SAFETY AND EMERGENCY transport by ambulance to the nearest Italy is a safe country. If you do encoun- hospital or medical facility is alerted. ter problematical or dangerous situa- A helicopter-ambulance service is also tions you should contact the police forc- available for the most impassable and es, which are responsible for the safety hard-to- get-at places. of citizens and for foreigners staying in Italy.

160 SOCCORSO STRADALE shorter and less severe and the summer (Road assistance): 803.116 is longer, but there is hardly ever the sul- This is the number of the ACI road assis- try weather that a'ects northern cities, tance service, available to Members and thanks to the mitigating e'ect of the sea, clients for requesting ACI services in Italy which touches nearly the whole area. (road assistance, replacement car, car to In the South and on the Islands, the win- your home, doctor quickly etc.). It is a ter is never too harsh and the tempera- toll-free number, operational only in Ita- tures in autumn and spring are nearly the ly, 365 days a year, round the clock. same as the summer ones in other parts of Italy. FOREST FIRES: 1515 This is the number of the forestry corps EMBASSIES (Corpo Forestale dello Stato) for envi- There rare embassies of over 200 coun- ronmental emergencies and it is opera- tries in Rome, the capital city, and it is tional 24 hours a day all year round. possible to find out about the cultural The forestry corps deals with the protec- events organized by the various States in tion of the environmental and scenic Italy and the business opportunities, as heritage and, in particular, with forest well as the procedures for working in It- fires, which may be an issue especially aly or for obtaining a teaching qualifica- during the summer months. tion You can find a full list by visiting the site GUARDIA COSTIERA - SOCCORSO of the Ministero degli A'ari Esteri (minis- MARITTIMO (coast guard - maritime try of foreign a'airs) www.esteri.it rescue): 1530 If your boat breaks down or there is any CONSULATES emergency in Italian territorial waters, Consulates can be a great help for tour- you can contact the national coast guard ists that, unfortunately, are having prob- directly on this number. lems in Italy. Th ey can help out in specific individual and CLIMATE collective emergency situations and is- In Italy there are marked di'erences in sue travel documents for returning home climate between North and South. if identity documents have been stolen In the North, which is the part between or lost. Countries that have permanent the Alps and the Appenino Tos- and frequent relations with Italy have co-Emiliano, the climate is severe: the consulates in the principal Italian cities. winters are very cold and the summers Furthermore, there are honorary consu- very hot, with high levels of humidity. lates in many Italian cities, which can In the Centre, approximately between help tourists and back them up in any Liguria and the Rome area, the climate is eventuality. temperate and there is less di'erence in You can find a full list by visiting the web- temperature between summer and win- site of the Ministry of Foreign A'airs: ter than in the North: the cold period is www.esteri.it

161 162 The variety of is famous all over the world, © Foxys_forest_manufacture - iStock - Getty Images Active holiday in Italy - Hiking the Path of Gods, Amalfi Coast, © RomanBabakin - iStock - Getty Images 164 A hot balloon ride is the ideal way of exploring Italy’s breathtaking landscapes, © ah_fotobox - iStock - Getty Images Front Cover Photo: Procida, Island, Campania, © mikolajn- iStock - Getty Images Back cover photo: Matera, European Capital of Culture 2019, © bluejayphoto - iStock - Getty Images

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