Greek Wine Reputation the Reputation of Greek Wine Is a Complicated Matter
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Global Public Rhetoric Analysis 20.10.2008 Wines from Greece
Greek Wine Reputation The reputation of Greek wine is a complicated matter. For decades Greek wine was well known but rather notorious. In the recent years this was altered however, following great efforts and the tide has not completely changed still. Although retsina is not anymore synonymous to Greek wine, the product is not established yet among the leading wines in the world and its quality and consistency in particular, are still under question.
Greek wine equals retsina 87 88 89 90 91 Retsina has been the equivalent of Greek wine for decades as it has been the main and most popular produce. Moreover, the fame of retsina is consequently linked to the kind of tourism that Greece had been attracting over the years. Visitors were not particularly interested in discovering great vintages, therefore opted for the popular and economical retsina, which in turn became a constant in the sun, sea, taverna equation.
Retsina, the most famous or notorious Greek wine is a real love-it-or-hate-it tipple.
In historical terms retsina is simply famous as an ancient product. There are often factual references, which without praising the wine; they do not condemn it either.
Retsina: The process for making this Greek wine is more than 3,000 years old and involves treating the wine with pine-tree resin. The wine has a strong smell and flavor that takes some getting used to.
However, as an ancient wine it does not have a bad reputation.
The story goes that long before casks and bottles were invented, the ancient Greeks stored their wine in goatskins and poured pitch-pine on top to seal the goatskins and preserve the wine. Greeks developed a liking for the unique
87 Reuters: RPT-FEATURE-Greek wines seek to regain their mythical status – 18.09.08 88 Daily Mirror: Mirror Travel - Ouzo clever chap. – 16.03.02 89 Sunday Gazette – Mail: Food School: Glossary of Greek Foods – 01.08.99 90 Aberdeen Press and Journal: Board here for Greek islands – 23.03.02 91 Houston Chronicle: Absorb-a the Greek/ Coming to terms with food from the eastern Mediterranean – 10.03.00
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flavor and continued to add the resin even after barrels and bottles came into use.
On the other hand, retsina, as the produce of modern times is not characterised by positive comments and there are hardly any good reviews to be found.
…the resin-flavoured Greek wine retsina, which has probably been the target of more uncomplimentary remarks than most other wines. Somebody once described it as tasting like turpentine which has been strained through a bishop's socks, while author Evelyn Waugh thought it tasted like varnish and brown sugar.
In other words, retsina is not considered to have a place among what is considered ‘sophisticated’ wines.
Adverse reputation factor: Retsina is not a good wine 92 93 94 95
Retsina has burdened the image of Greek wine for a long time and it has proved quite hard to overcome this popular perception that all wines from Greece are like retsina.
It can be argued that retsina has been almost unanimously condemned in the global wine rhetoric.
… the resin-flavoured wine that still gives Greek wine a bad name, not to mention taste…
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If you're brave enough, try a glass of pine sap-tasting retsina, look for Kourtakis and Malamatinas, which make good brands of this traditional white.
A bad wine
As young Nikos is in tow we'll go to that expensive new Greek restaurant in Barnsbury. I'll be choosing the wine, mind you. No offence, Nikos, but Greek wine should only be used as rat poison or anti-freeze." … In the cosy confines of the Acropolis restaurant, the food that was served was typically Greek -
92 The San Franchisco Chronicle: THE CHRONICLE'S WINE SELECTIONS / Greek whites – 06.07.07 93 National Post: The Gods must be thirsty – 09.08.08 94 Pensions Management: PM Regular - The lawyer's tale - Back to basics – 01.03.01 95 Daily Mirror: TRAVEL - Around the world in a.. BOTTLE – 07.09.02
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stuffed vine leaves, kleftika and bachlava, although the wine was decidedly French.
Ulcer inducing retsina
The wines: We're not talking Chateau Lafitte here, but there is more to Greek wine than ulcer-inducing retsina.
Ambiguous reputation factor: Cheap Greek wine and Greek folklore 96 97 98
The only situations in which retsina may have attracted a positive sounding comment are when it is recommended as a local curiosity to be succumbed to.
There, we can wander narrow lanes between sparkling white buildings, check out shops selling local souvenirs and foods, tour on foot or by motorbike, or laze on a beach. In the evenings, we can drink retsina (cheap Greek wine) to the music of the bouzoukia, dance a spirited Syrtaki over shards of crockery and feast in seaside cafes on dolmadakia, souvlaki, moussaka and other Greek specialties.
Retsina … the Greek way
What you've heard about Greek winemakers is true. They take perfectly good (if humble) white wine and drip pine resin into it. On purpose. They call it retsina and drink it with savoury Greek appetizers from sautéed goat cheese to grilled octopus, and smack their lips.
Retsina as an aperitif
Chef Cora stands by the old varieties, too. "The retsina is a great aperitif because of the strong resin; it really gets the palate working."
96 National Post: Island hopping: Inspiration, tranquility and cafe-sitting on Greece's fabled Saronic Islands – 04.01.03 97 The Record: Moving beyond retsina – 07.09.94 98 St. Petersburg Times: A champion of Greek wine – 05.12.07
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Greek wine beyond retsina 99 100 101 102 103 Gradually and rather slowly, Greek wine emerged from obscurity and is currently quickly covering ground against its home-grown ‘enemy’, the notorious retsina.
But if you've had only Retsina, you haven't had the best. And you've missed many of the other wines of Greece, modern or ancient . . . very ancient.
When the connection between the modern wine production in Greece and the ancient history behind it, as well as the rich grape variety is made, Greek wine production enjoys profound appreciation for its small but very worthy produce.
There's nothing wrong with Retsina, of course, but pretty much everyone has tried that - and, as a result, too many people think that's the extent of Greek wine. In fact, Greece is remarkable both for its wine-making history and the huge number of indigenous grapes that still make unique wines.
However, exports of retsina constitute less than 30% of the total, and possibly even less regarding to the USA exports.
Greek wine is a great bargain, although its most famous example, Retsina, is somewhat of an acquired taste. It is flavoured from the resin of pine trees. There are some fine white and rose unresinated wines if Retsina doesn't appeal to you.
Lacking character 104
Greek wine has managed to be distinguished for its own separate and unique taste. However, what has not been achieved is to establish what exactly this individual character is.
Greek wine has not made a clear statement in the international audience yet.
99 St. Petersburg Times: Sips and tips – 27.06.07 100 The Wall Street Journal: Tastings: A World of Wine – 02.12.05 101 The News Tribune: German or greek, it's TIME TO PARTY; It's not too late to sample a savory array of ethnic fare at the first Oktoberfest Northwest in Puyallup or Tacoma's 30th Greek Festival – 09.10.05 102 The Record: Moving beyond retsina – 07.09.94 103 The Financial Post Magazine: Athens: The good, the bad and the ugly: The Acropolis and other remnants of Classical Greece can stir the soul but this ancient city has largely eradicated its past. And it suffers for it – 01.11.95 104 The San Franchisco Chronicle: The chronicle's wine selections / Greek whites – 06.07.07
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We tasted 58 Greek white wines and were pleased that we didn't taste as many flawed wines as we feared we might. In fact, the biggest drawback surprised us: Many Greek whites are simply innocuous, with little character. The flip side of that is that the wines we're recommending tend to be light- bodied and friendly to foods far beyond feta.
***
But that's the thrill of tasting Greek wines: When you have a good one, you wonder if anyone since Socrates has experienced such a virtue.
Divided opinions 105 106 107 Regardless of the quality of Greek wine, which evidently is a divisive issue, the various elements of what is considered a ‘Greek experience’ and what is considered pleasant by the visitors to Greece, is another matter. Not rarely are products, and in this case wine, appreciated as an integral part of Greek culture and how they are fit for purpose.
Some say Greek wine doesn't travel well, some that it's never good in the first place. Whatever the truth of the matter, it tastes refreshing and delicious on an August evening.
On the other hand, when not in Greece, opinions about Greek wine may be quite negative.
I have spent years perfecting ways of saying "I'm sure it was just the ticket on its home territory", and not saying "I wouldn't drink this even if I were desperate". Funnily enough, though (unless I have blanked the experience from memory), I cannot recall anyone ever persuading me to taste the wine they brought back from their summer holiday in Greece.
Unfortunately Greek wine, especially until the end of the previous decade, had not managed to acquire a reputation amongst the wider public.
Not a good buy?
People just do not seem to come home with their luggage stuffed with bottles of Greek wine in the same way they do with French, Spanish, Italian et al.
105 The Scotsman: 24-Hour Guide All roads lead to Rhodos Town – 17.07.99 106 The Sunday Times: Greece is the word - Wine - Food & Drink – 30.03.97 107 St. Petersburg Times: A champion of Greek wine – 05.12.07
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This is partly explained by the fact that retsina dominated as ‘the Greek wine’, leaving no space for the refined vintages that are also being produced.
It speaks volumes about the Greek wines 99% of tourists drink - retsina, retsina and more retsina, with an occasional, sticky sweet Samos or Patras muscat.
The above, combined with lack of organised promotion to the consumer abroad or even the visitor of Greece resulted in placing wine rather low in the general public’s estimation.
These are wines selected as much through lack of opportunity as lack of discrimination. No wonder few returning holidaymakers are tempted to test Greek wines' ability to travel.
No value for money? 108
As Greek wine is not yet established in the perceptions of the average consumer abroad, those unfamiliar with the developments regarding the product are very hesitant to purchase expensive Greek wine as they are not confident about what the outcome is going to be.
It has been harder to move the reputation and consumer willingness to pay more than $10 for Greek wine, although large numbers of Americans are eating Greek food.
Expensive product 109 110 111 112
With its high production costs, Greece cannot compete on price. A typical retail entry-level price for a Greek wine in a British supermarket is about 7.14 Euros, higher than for an Australian one. "Greek wine producers have made great strides in improving the quality and diversity of their products bringing them up to export-quality level," says Helen McGinn, spokeswoman at Tesco PLC, the largest supermarket chain in the U.K. "But at a time of fierce international competition coupled with a world supply glut, the high price of Greek wine makes it harder to sell." Sales in Britain fell 11% from 2000 to 2002. From 1995 to 2002, the volume of Greek wine sold in Germany dropped 8% and Greece fell to eighth place from fourth in market share.
108 St. Petersburg Times: A champion of Greek wine – 05.12.07 109 The Wall Street Journal: Greece Offers New Wave of Wines - Vintners Aspire to Global Markets, But Production Costs Are High And Marketing Remains Poor – 04.08.04 110 Euromonitor: Greek wine goes for Olympic gold – 03.11.03 111 The Age: It's all Greek to me – 25.09.07 112 Athens News: Affordable Greek wine for every palate – 23.03.01
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And for those of us used to cheap Greek wines, get ready to pay more. The new Greek age of wine brings modern wines at modern prices (all that stainless steel and new French oak doesn't come cheap).
Greek wine reinvention
Rebranding 113 114
The new era in Greek wine industry has not gone unnoticed and this is evident in the global public rhetoric. The more refined produce has evidently distinguished itself from notorious retsina and is on its way of being established in some foreign markets. The regeneration of the industry and the more sophisticated image that Greek wine producers nowadays have resulted in their relatively frequent presence in the public debate.
Polite surprise, frowning disapproval, outright pity - these were the reactions of most wine types when your correspondent revealed the summer holiday scheme. Greece? Two weeks of Demestica or that deadly Retsina ... my dear, how could you? Night after night, sitting by the water's edge in Cephalonia's prettiest port, I raised a glass to the sceptics. A glass of crisp white Robola, the local speciality, sometimes; or tangy Strofilia from Attica, or some soft, ripe red wine from Macedonia or the Peloponnese.
The efforts are being recognized although they are still regarded as efforts, since Greek wine does not appear to have secured its place in the league of top wines.
It is still the interesting newcomer that may be holding great potential.
The Greek wine industry has been fighting gallantly over the past decade or two to improve the range and standard of its output - but, rather like the Trojan War, the struggle has gone on for quite some time without a major breakthrough. In wine marketing terms, that means only one thing: the message hasn't yet got through to the rest of the world that Greece is a force worth taking seriously.
"The last 10 to 15 years have seen an amazing change in the Greek wine scene,” Maggie McNie, the British Master of Wine who has worked energetically as a consultant to the Greek wine industry, wrote a few months ago in an article headed "Waking the Giants" in Decanter magazine. "It is as if
113 Irish Times: Greek wine - no tragedy – 14.08.99 114 The Daily Telegraph: Travel - Now a moussaka-free zone Greece is reinventing itself – 25.05.02
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an industry which had been sleeping ever since the fall of Constantinople has suddenly awoken. It has at last submitted its claim to be accepted once more as the fine wine-making country that it was in classical times." But the change has come "too quickly for the buying world outside Greece to have yet discovered the range of well made wines now available," she admits.
Change of tide 115 116
Did your first experience of Greek wine involve sun, sea, kebabs, bouzouki music and the worst hangover of your life? And do the words retsina and Demestica ring alarm bells? Fear not, you are not alone. It has been a while coming, but, for the more adventurous, Greece now has many good wines - makers such as Boutari, Domaine Carras, Gentilini and Domaine Hatzimichali are becoming increasingly ambitious, with improving results.
In the turn of the century, when Greek wine begun to acquire a better reputation, as the wider variety in existence started becoming known, there were certain productions that first made a name for themselves such as the Gerovasiliou production.
Many of the reds are "hot climate" wines with distinct flavours of dried prunes and dates. Sample the surprising softness and full body of regional red Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi, Thessaloniki, 1996. An interesting and worthy, if slightly overpriced….
New wave 117
In recent years, many Greek winemakers have begun producing world-quality wines. They are drawing on a long heritage, ancient-hillside vineyards and a wealth of indigenous-grape varieties that offer surprising and original tastes to connoisseurs seeking the next thing.
But the New Wave Greek wine industry is considered to be struggling. Production costs are high and marketing is poor.
The Greek wine saga is part of a larger global-grape battle pitting huge conglomerates from Australia, California and elsewhere against Europe's fragmented, family-run vineyards.
115 The Evening Standard: The good fast food guide – 10.03.00 116 Patriot News: Greece glories in its wines – 05.10.94 117 The Wall Street Journal: Greece Offers New Wave of Wines - Vintners Aspire to Global Markets, But Production Costs Are High And Marketing Remains Poor – 04.08.04
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These multinationals can supply large quantities of reliable, if homogeneous, mid priced wine to the giant supermarkets world-wide that increasingly are the important retail outlets. As a result, it becomes a demanding task to compete against such a strong competition.
Good, yet not consistent 118
Greece's nearly three millennia of winemaking experience is regarded both a strength and a hindrance. There is wide appreciation of the long way wine making in Greece has covered, while it is also widely thought that Greek wines are still rather uneven and not consistent enough.
The good news is that the country is still discovering the pleasures that can result from applying modern winemaking techniques to preserve the fresh flavours of indigenous grape varieties like Assyrtiko, Roditis and our clear favourite, Moschofilero. The bad news is that the country is modernizing slowly and its wines are very uneven.
Evolving, though not at the top … yet 119
Overall, Greek wines seem to be works in progress; not up to French or California standards yet, but interesting as something different, and likely to improve as modernization continues.
Greek wine influence Introducing the love for wine 120
Wine making is most of all an interest and a ‘talent’. In order for wine to become such a highly appreciated product and something to be cherished as well as marking special enjoyment, wine is a produce that is almost always referred to as a beloved occupation by its makers. This love is regarded to have been introduced and spread by the ancient Greeks.
Although the ancient Greeks introduced a love of wine to much of Europe, the modern Greek wine industry is only a couple of generations old and winemakers there have had a lot to learn in just a few years.
118 The San Franchisco Chronicle: the Chronicle's wine selections / Greek whites – 06.07.07 119 The Record: Moving beyond retsina – 07.09.94 120 The Journal: Greeks make the earth move – 11.04.08
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A valuable commodity 121
Moreover, historical references reveal that wine has been regarded as a valuable product since the ancient years, with Greek wine being a valuable trade commodity, along with other treasures.
The exhibition highlights the contents of a grave unearthed in Vani in 2004. It contained elaborate Colchian hair ornaments made of gold and appliques for clothing; a Persian silver bucket, ladle and libation bowls; and Greek wine amphorae and red-figure pottery, evidence of the importance of wine in ancient Georgian culture. The exhibition also features a spectacular bronze torso in a fifth-century Greek style; Greek silver drinking cups; a magnificent Colchian gold necklace with thirty-one pendant tortoises, each decorated with tiny granulation; and a gold pectoral, inlaid with carnelian and turquoise figures and influenced by Egyptian, Greek and Achaemenid jewelry.
A regional success 122
Greece represents a case of the outsider on its way to become the favourite. Since its wine making tradition remained numb for centuries and its modern production achieved notoriety before its quality produce was appreciated, Greece has covered considerable ground in relatively short time, in the past few decades. As a result, it could be labelled as a success case that is only in the beginning. Consequently, this successful evolution has constituted an example and has motivated other countries with small productions to pursue their place in the international wine making game.
Croatia winemakers are encouraged by the success of their counterparts in Greece, where wars and a military dictatorship kept winemaking largely isolated from the rest of Europe until 1981, when the country joined the EU. By the time the market was opened to much-feared competition from cheaper French table wine, Greek winemakers had built a strong domestic market based on local varietals favoured by Greek wine drinkers, giving them the muscle to begin developing an export business.
121 States New Service: 'Wine, worship and sacrifice: golden graves of ancient vani' opens dec. 1 at Arthur M. Sackler gallery – 06.11.07 122 The Wall Street Journal: Infusing Napa Valley's Magic Into Croatia - Vintners Aim to Put EU-Entry Hopeful on Map of World's Distinctive Wine Producers – 23.05.05
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Art presence 123
Over 30 years ago, when he was studying oenology, Vivanco also developed a passion for collecting all things related to wine. Little by little, he acquired items like Greek wine basins, such as one from the 4th century BC depicting Dionysus urinating wine - to the excitement of his fellow diners, oil paintings by Sorolla and engravings by Picasso.
Reputation obstacles Fighting the past 124 125
Even fame, though, is difficult to achieve for Greek winemakers overseas, such is the legacy of retsina's reputation. And ouzo cannot have helped.
The Greek wine industry had for years to shake off a tainted reputation that it produces nothing more than astringent pitch wine, due to the notoriety of retsina, which has for several consecutive decades been the country’s top wine export.
On the other hand, ouzo, the drink that is synonymous to Greece in the global public rhetoric has also contributed to keeping quality vintages into the shadow.
This licorice-flavored liqueur is so popular that bars, called ouzeries, exist solely for the purpose of enjoying ouzo with an assortment of mezethes. And unlike the tavernas, where the focus is on the mezethes… ouzeries exist for the ouzo, not the food.
Greece produces mediocre spirits 126
It has been widely held over the years that all spirits produced in Greece are of low standard. As a matter of fact they have been considered cheap products, worthy of a try merely for the experience.
Greek wine has improved a lot recently, with winemakers, such as Boutari, bringing in "flying wine makers" from Australia. The Aussies work their magic - but there's still some dodgy stuff around. Resinated retsina is pretty disgusting - but if it's all that's on offer, drink it very cold. Ouzo is cheap and
123 El Pais: A tribute to the history of wine fit for a king – 29.06.04 124 The Sunday Times: Greece is the word - Wine - Food & Drink – 30.03.97 125 Restaurants & Institutions: Authentic ethnics: Greek – 15.08.95 126 Daily Star: Why Greece? Kos you'll love it – 01.06.03
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has its traditional place as a sundowner. The Greek brandies are foul - avoid at all costs. Steer clear also of the cocktails made from Greek versions of spirits such as tequila, vodka and schnapps. They taste simply awful.
Greek wine vs. ouzo 127
Greek wine has not only to compete with the notoriety of retsina, but also with the incredible fame of ouzo. Alongside all things Greek, ouzo occupies one of the top positions as a ‘Greek element’.
In Greece, it's traditional to unwind after a long day with a glass of ouzo. Although the tourists often water down this bracing, aromatic, licorice- flavored spirit made of grapes and anise seed, purists sip it straight or over ice.
Moreover, when traditional Greek tastes are recommended, for years retsina has been the first alternative to ouzo.
If ouzo is too strong, try retsina, a popular Greek wine. Infused with the distinctive flavor of pine resin, retsina is an acquired taste.
Health alerts 128 129
The mycotoxin ochratoxin A is found in some Greek wines
The presence of ochratoxin A in foods and wines is of current interest owing to its toxic effects. Ochratoxin A is a widely distributed mycotoxin with nephrotoxic activity. It constitutes a new restrictive agent for the export of vinicultural products and is thus important from an economic as well as a scientific point of view.
"In this study, the determination of ochratoxin A in Greek wines was made by means of commercial immunoaffinity columns for purification followed by HPLC with fluorescence detection for quantification of the toxin. The method was applied to 28 dry wines (14 red, 13 white, one rose) and seven sweet wines (three red, four white) obtained by various viticultural and oenological practices. The levels of ochratoxin A ranged from <0.02 to 3.2 ng/ml, with sweet wines containing higher levels than dry wines. Most of the wines contained relatively low concentrations of ochratoxin A (0.02-0.5 ng/ml),
127 Houston Chronicle: Absorb-a the Greek/ Coming to terms with food from the eastern Mediterranean – 10.03.00 128 Proteomics Weekly: Nephrotoxins: The mycotoxin ochratoxin A is found in some Greek wines – 31.03.03 129 Soufleros and colleagues published the results of their study in Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture; Occurrence of ochratoxin A in Greek wines. J Sci Food Agr, 2003;83 (3):173-179
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which do not represent a serious risk to consumer health," stated E.H. Soufleros and co-authors.
Wine experts on Greek wine As mentioned above, the opinions of the top international wine experts are divided. In addition, not all experts have expressed an opinion on Greek wine. However, there is a clearly distinguishable trend of increasing positive comments about Greek wine.
Robert Parker 130
Robert Parker the influential wine expert that writes in Business Week does not seem to have Greek wines in great respect. The rankings he has provided to some Greek wines are quite poor.
Attention to Greek wine was paid recently by the influential Robert Parker and Wine Spectator Magazine. While it’s listing and markings were disappointing…
Kim Marcus 131
Kim Marcus has a rather positive view on Greek wines praising some Greek labels, highlighting though that modern techniques in Greek viniculture are still on their infancy. The expert sees some future potential of Greek wines if Greek wine producers adopt modern techniques.
Moschofilero (pronounced mos-ko-FEE-lay-ro) is one of the primary wine grapes of Greece, which boasts an amazing and sometimes bewildering collection of more than 300 native varieties ….…..
….Quality is rising among the white wines, especially from the storied Peloponnesian peninsula west of Athens and idyllic island redoubts such as Santorini…..
….When it comes to Greece's red wines, too many of them are still dominated by astringent characteristics. Some of these wines simply do not have enough body and freshness to deliver the fruit flavours that should be a vintner's primary goal…..
130 Allaboutgreekwine.com: Articles on greek wines 131 Allaboutgreekwine.com: Greece at the Crossroads – 31.12.06
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….Yet modern winemaking and viticultural techniques are still in their infancy in this inspiring land. Whether Greek wines in the 21st century will reach their potential is up to the country's vintners…..
Jancis Robinson 132
Jancis Robinson has a positive view regarding Greek wines. The expert believes that the country produces some fine wines. On the other hand though, she highlights the small scale production of wines in Greece, while she also pinpoints that modern viniculture techniques are still in their infancy.
….The fact that Greece produces some fine wine is now known by many serious wine lovers around the globe and believed fervently by all Greeks
…Good Greek wine will never be cheap however because most producers are small-scale……
…..Greece will never be a serious player in the high-volume, low-price wine game but she has much of interest to offer the wine lover prepared to spend between £5 and £15 a bottle……
….modern Greek wine market is still in its infancy….
…..Many of the reds among the 150-plus Greek wines I have tasted recently in London and Athens seemed curiously rustic and old-fashioned, even though some of them are quite expensive and highly regarded within Greece…..
Stephen D. Tanzer 133
Stephen Tanzer considers that Greek wines are unknown to the rest of the world, since they lack of effective representation. The expert believes that Greek wines are not highly respected.
With this in mind, we turn our attention to Greece, a country that is almost unknown to dessert wine lovers, and, up until recently, was not highly regarded for still wines. Yet, Greece is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, with evidence that the Greeks were making wine nearly 7,000 years ago.
132 Allaboutgreekwines.com: Where is Greek wine today? – 10.08.04 133 Epikouria: Health Sweets uncorked – 07.08
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Hugh Johnson 134
Wine expert Hugh Johnson considers that Greek wines are failing to meet the demands of modern world. They are lacking to meet the tasting standards that modern consumers require.
….the red wines of Crete that, in Hugh Johnson's telling phrase are ''more suited, perhaps, for Minoan than modern man…
Robert Joseph 135
Robert Joseph seems to have a positive view regarding Greek wines, paying emphasis to wines of the Peloponnese.
…..you could have a dry, herby rose from the Semeli winery in Nemea, which stand comparison with the best in Provence. Semeli also makes two of my favourite Greek reds, the cherryish Orinos Helios Nemea, which is made from the Agiorgitiko, and the claret-like Chateau Semeli.
Steven Spurrier 136 137
Wine expert Steven Spurrier praises Greek wines. He specifically names Xinomavro from Amyndeon as Best Old World Red in the April 2005 issue of Decanter.
This recognition extends beyond Greece: English wine writer Steven Spurrier has equated Gerovasiliou's achievements in Greece to that of Marcel Guigal in the Rhone valley.
Taste Profile This wine is a great example of Xinomavro from Amyndeon vinified in a modern way. The colour is a beautiful bright red colour with purple hints, the nose exhibits delicious aromas of red berries with hints of liquorice and chocolate. Aromas of strawberry carry through the finish with a nice structure and well-integrated tannins. This wine was named Best Old World Red by Stephen Spurrier in the April 2005 issue of Decanter.
134 The New York Times: Wine Talk 135 Semeli 136 Greek winemakers.com 137 Vick bar wines
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Tim Atkin 138
Tim Atkin columnist of the Observer provides positive comments about Greek wines. Specifically, he provides extensive mentions and positive comments about the wines of Santorini.
Maybe the Greek government should step in, because Santorini's wines are well worth preserving. The Assyrtiko grape, which dominates the island's vineyards - its lemony acidity and minerally bite make it a kind of Mediterranean Muscadet - is Santorini's gift to the world of wine. I suspect tourists drink it on holiday but forget about it the minute they get home - a bit like Retsina in other parts of Greece, except that this time the wines are worth remembering.
Konstantinos Lazarakis 139
Wine expert Konstantinos Lazarakis believes that Greek wine is not well represented in UK, while most foreign consumers are unfamiliar with the Greek wine labels.
Greek wines are under-represented in the UK, although companies such as Eclectic Wines, Vickbar Wines and Oddbins are doing their best to promote them. Part of the problem is unfamiliarity - especially if the labels are in Greek - which is why this detailed, up-to-date guide by Greece's first Master of Wine is so welcome.
David Lawrason 140
David Lawrason provides enthusiastic comments about red Xinomavro praising the features of the wine and presenting a rather positive view about Greek wines.
One of the star reds of the Greek Wine Road Show that touched down in Toronto last week. A pale but amazingly floral, flavourful, vibrant red from the native xinomavro grape that is finding new legs with modern winemaking in the Naoussa district of northwestern Greece.
Lifted aromas of violets, strawberry, sour cherry and fine spice. Mid-weight, firm and harmonious with some bitter, gritty tannin. Excellent length. Best 2008 to 2011.
138 The Guardian: The word on the vine 139 The Guardian: What's a Greek earn?– 24.04.03 140 Allaboutgreekwines.com: All Greek Wine
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