YOUR O.A.T. ADVENTURE TRAVEL PLANNING GUIDE®

Enhanced! Northern , & : Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great

2022

Small Groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! (average of 13) Overseas Adventure Travel ® The Leader in Personalized Small Group Adventures on the Road Less Traveled 1 Dear Traveler,

At last, the world is opening up again for curious travel lovers like you and me. And the O.A.T. Enhanced! Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great itinerary you’ve expressed interest in will be a wonderful way to resume the discoveries that bring us so much joy. You might soon be enjoying standout moments like these:

As I explored the monasteries of Meteora, I stood in awe atop pinnacles perched in a boundless sky. I later learned that the Greek word meteora translates to “suspended in the air,” and that’s exactly how I felt as I stood before nature’s grandeur and the unfathomable feats of mankind. For centuries, monks and nuns have found quiet solitude within these monasteries that are seemingly built into the sandstone cliffs. You’ll also get an intimate view into two of these historic sanctuaries alongside a local guide.

Could there be any place more distinct in Europe than Albania? You’ll see for yourself when you get a firsthand look into the lives of locals living in the small Albanian village of Dhoksat. First, you’ll interact with the villagers and help them with their daily tasks before sharing a Home-Hosted Lunch with a local family. While savoring the fresh ingredients of the region, you’ll discuss daily life in the Albanian countryside with your hosts.

The way we see it, you’ve come a long way to experience the true culture—not some fairytale version of it. So we keep our groups small, with only 8-16 travelers (average 13) to ensure that your encounters with local people are as intimate and authentic as possible. It’s also why your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader will be a resident “insider” who can show you the culture as only a local can.

To ensure that your adventure is truly unique, put your own personal stamp on it. You can arrive early and stay later, add a pre- or post-trip extension, spend time in a Stopover city, or combine two or more trips. Plus, your itinerary offers ample free time so you can pursue your own interests.

So until the day comes when you are off to enjoy your Enhanced! Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great adventure, I hope you will relish the fun and anticipation that this O.A.T. Adventure Travel Planning Guide® will inspire. Should you have further questions, feel free to call our Regional Adventure Counselors at 1-800-955-1925.

Love and peace,

Harriet R. Lewis Vice Chairman, Overseas Adventure Travel

P.S. For further peace of mind, please know that we are EXTENDING our Risk-Free Booking Policy through 12/31/21. Learn more at www.oattravel.com/risk-free-booking.

USA Today “Best Tours” 10Best Readers’ Presented by Choice Awards Solo Traveler

2 CONTENTS

A Letter from Harriet Lewis ...... 2 The O.A.T. Difference...... 4 The Freedom to Personalize Your Experience ...... 6 Grand Circle Foundation...... 8 The Leader in Solo Travel ...... 9

NORTHERN GREECE, ALBANIA & ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: MACEDONIA: ANCIENT LANDS OF CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE ALEXANDER THE GREAT Balkan Culture ...... 82 Your Adventure at a Glance: Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Where You’re Going, What it Costs, Shipping & More ...... 89 and What’s Included ...... 10 Your Detailed Day-To-Day Itinerary ...... 12 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY Optional Tours ...... 33 Greece...... 91 Pre-Trip Extensions ...... 34 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 91 Post-Trip Extensions ...... 46 Greece: A Brief History ...... 91 Dates & Prices ...... 57 Albania ...... 93 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 93 Albania: A Brief History ...... 93 ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION ...... 94 Travel Documents & Entry Requirements. . . 58 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 94 Visas Required ...... 58 North Macedonia: A Brief History ...... 95 Rigors, Vaccines & General Health ...... 60 ...... 96 Vaccines Required ...... 61 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 96 Money Matters: Local Currency & Tipping Turkey: A Brief History ...... 97 Guidelines ...... 64 ...... 98 Tipping Guidelines...... 67 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 98 Air, Optional Tours & Staying in Touch ..... 69 Serbia: A Brief History ...... 99 Optional Tours ...... 69 ...... 100 Communicating with Home from Abroad . . 70 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 100 Packing: What to Bring & Luggage Limits . . . 72 Kosovo: A Brief History ...... 101 Suggested Packing Lists ...... 74 Electricity Abroad ...... 76 RESOURCES Climate & Average Temperatures ...... 78 Suggested Reading ...... 103 Suggested Film & Video ...... 106

O.A.T. Health & Safety Measures...... 110 Notes...... 111 Map ...... 115

3 EXPERIENCE THE O.A.T. DIFFERENCE in the

This adventure not only showcases iconic sights, but takes you beyond them to experience the culture through unique activities, engagement with the natural world, and authentic encounters with local people. Since our founding in 1978, O.A.T. has become America’s leader in personalized small group journeys on the road less traveled.

SMALL GROUPS: 8-16 TRAVELERS LOCAL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION (AVERAGE OF 13)—GUARANTEED To see the world like the locals, you should The world feels more intimate and engaging travel like one. Our small group size allows when your experience of it is also personal us to take the roads and waterways that are and genuine. That’s why our groups never less traveled, and we often follow them using exceed 16 travelers. This gives you access to the same unique modes of transportation people and places larger groups simply can’t that the locals use—be it a canoe, a camel or a reach. More authentic interactions. Deeper vintage cab. bonds with your travel mates. Personal service from your Trip Experience Leader. Smoother UNIQUE LODGINGS transitions. And a far more satisfying Our lodgings reflect the local character, experience than any traditional tour offers. from smaller family-run hotels and historic manors to comfy inns. Occasionally, larger THE BEST TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS hotels closer to city centers are used. Wherever Your English-speaking, O.A.T. Trip Experience you stay, you’re assured fine comfort and Leader is a resident of the region you are visiting, hospitality. so you will get a true insider’s perspective that brings each place alive—the stories, , OUR WORLDWIDE OFFICES customs, hidden treasures and more. With 36 regional offices around the world, we are perfectly poised to leverage our local AUTHENTIC CULTURAL CONNECTIONS relationships to deliver an excellent experience Engage with local people through visits to and value. During this trip, you’ll be supported farms, factories, markets, and artisans’ by our team in Greece. studios; school visits; Home-Hosted meals; and more.

Uncover ancient history at the ruins of Butrint in Albania Delve into daily life during a Home-Hosted meal

4 THE PILLARS OF DISCOVERY En riching. Inspiring. Unforgettable. These features form the foundation of your Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia adventure.

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION (GCF) VISIT A DAY IN THE LIFE GCF was established in 1992 to help change Do you ever wonder, “What would it be like people’s lives in the world where we live, to live here?” when you visit new lands? work, and travel. To date, we have pledged or Let’s find out during your O.A.T. A Day in donated $200 million worldwide. the Life, an exclusive, immersive experience that places you in the heart of a community By investing in the places we explore— where you’ll meet various people where they including local schools, cooperatives, or arts live, work, and play; visit the neighborhood centers—we hope to give locals the skills and school; lend a hand with daily chores; and confidence they need to become leaders of break with our hosts. their generation and preserve their heritage for many years to come. We’re proud to play This adventure includes a NEW A Day in the a part in preserving precious locales like the Life experience in the small village of Dhoksat. Bryggen waterfront district of Bergen, a living With a local farmer, Landi Koci, as our guide, example of the glory days of the Hanseatic we’ll be immersed in rural Albanian life when League, and supporting villages like Harmi in we meet a goat herder and a winemaker, try Estonia, whose once-struggling school is now our hand at traditional farming activities, and a center of community life. enjoy a homemade lunch.

CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS HOME-HOSTED EXPERIENCES Every culture has its joys and achievements, Stories shared. Differences solved. Taste buds and we celebrate them all. But every place engaged. Good will extended. It’s amazing the also has its challenges, and to gloss over them things that can happen across a kitchen table, would not do justice to those whose stories so we’ll break into groups of 4-5 to join a local need to be told—nor to you, as a traveler who family in their home for a snack or a meal. deserves more than a sugar-coated version of This is a rare opportunity to witness family things. So our Trip Experience Leaders will life, learn local customs, and taste some lead frank discussions on controversial issues, home-cooked fare. and introduce you to people whose stories will On this adventure, we’ll sit down with a family expand your understanding. in Meteora for a dinner of local specialties. For example, we’ll discuss domestic violence They’ll offer unique insights into what it’s in Albania with an abuse victim and a like to live in the shadows of the Meteora’s representative from a local women’s rights mighty monasteries, while sharing stories that organization. While this conversation may highlight local customs. You’ll likely be joined be difficult to have, it will shed light on the by second generation as well—either children inescapable—and often dire—issues women or grandparents—who will provide their own face in this profoundly patriarchal society. perspectives on life in Greece.

5 You're in control with THE FREEDOM TO PERSONALIZE YOUR EXPERIENCE Exclusively with O.A.T. Your Choice. Your Adventure. Your Way.

It’s your adventure, so why not make it exactly what you want it to be? We offer an exclusive variety of options that let you tailor your adventure so it’s completely your own. In fact, O.A.T. is the only travel company to offer this level of flexibility and choice for a truly personalized experience.

PRE- OR POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS 2. Great value: All extensions include Every O.A.T. adventure offers at least one accommodations, daily , and optional pre-trip and one post-trip extension. airport transfers. Here’s why more than 55% of O.A.T. travelers 3. Continuity and camaraderie: You’ll usually choose to take a pre- or post-trip extension: travel with the same Trip Experience Leader 1. You’ll maximize your discoveries—often who leads your main trip, enjoying more of in an even smaller group than your main his or her insider expertise—and more time adventure (on average, 6 travelers with a to bond with the group. dedicated Trip Experience Leader)—and take advantage of your included airfare.

Optional Extensions offered with your Europe adventure

Ancient Greece: & the Isle of NEW! Turkey’s Cultural Capitals: 6 nights pre-trip from $1995 Ankara & 5 nights pre-trip from $1795

Knossos Archaeological site, , Crete , Istanbul, Turkey

Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade NEW! Kosovo’s Cultural Renaissance: & Novi Sad Prizren & Pristina 6 nights post-trip from $1995 5 nights post-trip from $1595

St. Sava’s Temple, Belgrade, Serbia Prizren, Kosovo

6 ARRIVE EARLY, STAY LATER route to your main adventure. Speak with one Extending your time abroad—with us or of our Regional Adventure Counselors to learn on your own—is the best way to broaden more about your options and to arrange your your experience. It’s also a practical way to international airfare. maximize the value of the international airfare You are free to choose however you’d like to covered in your main itinerary. spend this additional time exploring, including the tours you take, activities you plan, and Expand Your Discoveries Before restaurants you visit. If you’d like ideas about or After Your Adventure how to spend this time and what to see and do, Arrive early in the first destination on your our Regional Adventure Counselors can provide pre-trip extension or main adventure, or stay recommendations when helping you plan later in the last city on your main adventure or this option. post-trip extension. By coming early, you can COMBINE ADVENTURES rest after your flight and adjust—with time to You’re already overseas. Why not see more and explore. By staying later, you have extra time maximize your value by avoiding the cost and to relax, pack, or continue exploring. length of another international flight? Here’s This option lets you take advantage of our why 2,250 O.A.T. travelers combined two or lower group rates, with prices from $75 per more adventures in 2019: person per night—including accommodations, • Save a total of $600-$3000 per person when private airport transfer, and daily breakfast. you combine two adventures compared to the • Arrive early in on your main cost of taking each trip separately. trip for $100 per person per night • Apply the 5% or 6% Frequent Traveler Credit • Arrive early in Athens on your Greece pre- you earn on your first trip to your second trip. trip extension for $100 per person per night • Sir Edmund Hillary Club members save an • Arrive early in Ankara on your Turkey pre- extra $250-$350 per person when booking trip extension for $75 per person, per night multiple trips in a calendar year. • Conclude your main trip with more time • Our Regional Adventure Counselors make all in Skopje for just $125 per person per night the arrangements for a seamless experience. • Spend more time in Belgrade at the end of Combine this trip with our Turkish Coastal your Serbia post-trip extension for $100 per Voyage: Greek Islands, Istanbul & Athens person per night adventure—for a total cost of $10,090-$12,890 • Conclude your Kosovo post-trip extension per person—and save $1100-$1400 per person with more time in Pristina for $75 per versus taking each trip separately. person, per night AIR PREFERENCES Accommodations are at the same hotels where 54% of our travelers customize their air you begin or end the main trip and optional itineraries: extensions, so transitions will be seamless. • Choose your departure city and airline Stopover in any major international city • Depart from one city and return to another Travelers with O.A.T. airfare have the • Upgrade to Premium Economy or opportunity to stopover in popular cities en Business Class

7 GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION Changing people’s lives, one village, one school, one person at a time

ON THIS ADVENTURE … Dear Traveler, Since our inception in 1992, the Grand Circle In 1992 we established Grand Circle Foundation has pledged or donated more Foundation, an entity of the Lewis Family than $200 million to projects around the Foundation, as a means to give back to world. Here are just a few of the ways we have the world that had already given us so partnered with the communities on this trip. much. We’ve pledged or donated more than $200 million worldwide to support Albania Earthquake Relief the education of young people and the Total Donations: $20,000 preservation of international treasures In 2019, Albania was rocked by a 6.4 magnitude and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and earthquake, killing 51 people, and leaving the conservation of natural resources for thousands with homes destroyed and uninhabit- future generations. able. GCF decided that the best way to help was providing wood stoves, as the winter had arrived Of course, none of this would be possible and these families had no heat in their tents, without your help. A portion of the proceeds and no means to cook. 35 wood stoves were of every adventure is donated to Grand purchased, including the accessories that come Circle Foundation—so just as your life will with them, and delivered to these people in their be enriched by the discoveries you’ll make tents. In total, 35 families (almost 175 people) were on your journey, you’ll also help to enrich provided heat for the winter. The next project the lives of the people you’ll meet along the will be to rebuild one of the buildings that will be way. Thank you for traveling with us, and needed the most by the local community. for helping to change people’s lives. Naum Ohridski School Love and peace, Total Donations: $13,023 This small school of only 26 students in the Elshani village of Macedonia was in disrepair when Grand Harriet R. Lewis Circle first started visiting in 2016. The roof leaked Chair, Grand Circle Foundation and their was only one toilet for all the students. With the generous help of O.A.T travelers, GCF was able to construct 2 new toilets and repair the roof.

SCAN ME See how Grand Circle Foundation is giving back in this video Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will take you directly to the video.

www.grandcirclefoundation.org

8 THE LEADER IN SOLO TRAVEL in the Balkans—and Around the World

ON THIS ADVENTURE …

FREE Single Supplements: We don’t The leader in solo-friendly charge a single supplement on this travel for Americans— adventure and optional trip extensions— by the numbers a savings of $675 per person compared to other travel companies. But single spaces fill quickly, so early reservations More than 50% of all O.A.T. are advised. travelers are women who travel solo

One of our most popular trips for solo travelers. More than 445 solo travelers In 2022, we’re offering 30,000 joined us on this adventure in the past two singles spaces across all O.A.T. years—either independently or sharing adventures. That’s 86% more than a room with a mother, daughter, sister, offered in 2019 or friend.

of our 30,000 single spaces High ratings: More than 92% of these solo 92% have FREE Single Supplements. The travelers rated their adventure excellent. remaining 8% have the lowest single On average, half of your group will also supplements in the industry. be traveling independently, so it’s easy to forge special bonds as you experience In 2022, we’re offering 25 exclusive unforgettable moments together. women’s departures on some of our most popular itineraries You’ll be in good hands, thanks to your dedicated local Trip Experience Leader (a resident of the Balkans), and the expertise of our regional office team in Greece. NEW! 101+ SCAN ME Increased Single Space: In 2022, we have Tips for Solo 39% more single spaces than in 2019, Women Travelers with up to 8 single spaces per departure. This complimentary, 96-page See available FREE single space at booklet is a comprehensive collection of savvy tips www.oattravel.com/gre2022. specifically for seasoned women travelers going solo. Learn about safety for solos, packing like a pro, the best travel apps, self-care on the road, and more. Scan this code to view an online copy or to request one by mail.

9 Our best value in over 5 years—with a savings of up to $500 per person Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great Small Group Adventure Greece:¦ĞāŭŭÖķŋłĢĴĢ̇māŶāŋũÖ̇ÑÖėŋũĢÖ̳Ά̳Albania:FıĢũŋĴÖŭŶāũ̇¦ĢũÖłÖ̳Ά̳Macedonia: Ohrid, Skopje

Countries: 3 Ά!ĢŶĢāŭ̆6

Small groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! It’s Included (average of 13)

Explore in a small group of 8-16 24 small group activities FROM PER DAY DAYS • • travelers (average group size of 13) $ $ • Services of a local O.A.T. Trip 3895 217 18 • International airfare, airport transfers, Experience Leader government taxes, fees, and airline fuel Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and Including international airfare surcharges unless you choose to make • luggage porters your own air arrangements FREE Single Supplement 5 % Frequent Traveler Credit All land transportation • • toward your next adventure—an • Accommodations for 16 nights average of $308 Maximize Your • 36 meals—16 , 10 lunches, Discoveries & Value and 10 dinners (including 1 Home- Hosted Lunch)

Optional extension s : SCAN ME Ancient Greece: Athens & Watch our #1 most popular video the Isle of Crete 6 nights pre-trip from $1995 for this adventure Travel from only $333 per night Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will New! Turkey’s Cultural Capitals: take you directly to the video. Ankara & Istanbul 5 nights pre-trip from $1795 Travel from only $359 per night Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Sad 6 nights post-trip from $1995 Travel from only $333 per night New! Kosovo’s Cultural Renaissance: Prizren & Pristina 5 nights post-trip from $1595 Travel from only $319 per night

Fishing boats on , Ohrid, Macedonia

Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great

10 M O N SERBIA Itinerary Summary T E KOSOVO B To/From U.S. NE GR A U Internal flight O L G Land route Skopje A Train route Pre-trip extensions: 6 nights in Ancient L R 050Miles Adriatic Matka Canyon I A Greece: Athens & the Isle of Crete OR

Sea B New! 5 nights in Turkey’s Cultural Dajti Mountain MACEDONIA (Optional tour) POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS Capitals: Ankara & Istanbul Novi Sad Tirana Sremski Karlovci A Kovacica Belgrade ROM. Ohrid Da nu L. Ohrid BOSN. & be PRE-TRIP EXTENSIONS HERZ. DAYS DESTINATION Thessaloniki N SERBIA T

U Nis A A I

R GREECE e Thessaloniki MONT. R 1 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece A g K I I e KOS. G o E n a L Athens Y Vergina i n Adriatic Skopje U a B n S A Sea ALB. MACEDONIA 2-4 Thessaloniki S e e a a S E Heraklion Dhoksat (Optional MONT. R Rethymno tour) B 5-6 Meteora CRETE Gjirokaster Mt. Olympus I A Priština Black Zagoria Sea Meteora KOSOVO 7-8 Zagoria Butrint Me Istanbul tsovo A G Thessaloniki L A Ankara B 9-11 Gjirokaster, Albania R e Prizren g A E e GREECE a N E n Skopje C S I e TURKEY A E a MACEDONIA 12-13 Tirana 14-15 Ohrid, Macedonia What to Expect 16-17 Skopje 18 Return to U.S.

Post-trip extensions: 6 nights in Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Pacing: 7 locations in 17 days Sad OR New! 5 nights in Kosovo’s Cultural Physical requirements: Walk on rugged paths and cobblestoned streets, and travel Renaissance: Prizren & Pristina by bus over rural roads that may be bumpy and narrow. Hikes along steep trails in Meteora and up and down hills in mountain villages in the Zagoria region. Arrive Early, Stay Later Flight time: Travel time will be 13-21 hours and will most likely have two connections Prices below include accommodations, View all physical requirements at www.oattravel.com/gre2022 daily breakfast, and private airport transfer. • Arrive early in Thessaloniki on your main trip for $100 per person per night The Balkans : The O.A.T. Difference • Arrive early in Athens on your Greece pre-trip extension for $100 per person Our Best Value in Over 5 Years: Save up to $500 per person, and travel at the per night lowest price and per diems in the industry. • Arrive early in Ankara on your Turkey pre-trip extension for $75 per person, People-to-People Experiences: Enjoy our NEW A Day in the Life experience in the per night Albanian village of Dhoksat, where you’ll meet a goat herder, tour the the village, • Conclude your main trip with more time and savor a meal with a local family—gleaning insight into daily life every step in Skopje for just $125 per person of the way. In Kalambaka, you’ll meet with artists at an icon-painting workshop per night to learn about the sacred nature of this artistic tradition, and you’ll learn more • Spend more time in Belgrade at the about the intersection of spirituality and everyday life during a Home-Hosted end of your Serbia post-trip extension Dinner with a local family. Plus, enjoy a cooking lesson from a family that owns a for $100 per person per night local in the small village of Metsovo; get hands-on experience preparing • Conclude your Kosovo post-trip savory pies, a regional specialty, and taste the results over lunch. extension with more time in Pristina for $75 per person, per night O.A.T. Exclusives: Meet with locals to delve into Controversial Topics like the refugee crisis in Greece, domestic violence in Albania, and discrimination against ethnic in North Macedonia. You’ll also ride a traditional wooden boat through Matka Canyon, and take in the caves and scenery of this ruggedly More than 89% of travelers beautiful river gorge. rated this trip excellent

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/gre2022

11 Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great

YOUR DETAILED ITINERARY

BEGIN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL PRE-TRIP EXTENSION 6 nights in Ancient Greece: Athens & the Isle of Crete

Day 1 Depart for Athens, Greece Day 6 Overland to Rethymno • Home-Hosted Lunch • Heraklion Day 2 Arrive Athens, Greece Day 7 Heraklion • Optional Spinalonga: Day 3 Athens • The Acropolis • Plaka & The Leper Colony tour Square Day 8 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece • Day 4 Athens • Fly to Chania Begin main trip Day 5 Chania

OR 5 nights in Turkey’s Cultural Capitals: Ankara & Istanbul

Day 1 Fly to Ankara, Turkey Day 5 Explore Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar & Istiklal Street • Visit Topkapi Palace Day 2 Arrive Ankara Day 6 Discover Balat & Fener Day 3 Explore Ankara & Hittite Museum Day 7 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece • Begin Day 4 Train ride to Istanbul • Explore main adventure Hippodrome & Hagia Sophia

Day 1 Depart for Thessaloniki, Greece Day 2 Arrive Thessaloniki, Greece

Depart for your overnight flight to • Destination: Thessaloniki Thessaloniki, Greece. • Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace Hotel or similar

Afternoon/Evening: Upon arrival in Thessaloniki, an O.A.T. representative will meet you at the airport. You’ll transfer about 30 minutes by coach to our hotel, and meet your

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

12 Trip Experience Leader and fellow travelers, will take place in one of the city’s oldest including those who took our optional pre-trip neighborhoods at a modern-day grocery store extension to Ancient Greece: Athens & the Isle of that sells a wide range of produce. Crete or New! Turkey’s Cultural Capitals: Ankara • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. & Istanbul. Depending on where we stay, our • Hours: 9am-5pm Monday, Wednesday & hotel may feature onsite amenities including Saturday; 9am-9pm Tuesday, Thursday & a restaurant, , and swimming pool. Typical Friday. rooms include air-conditioning, wireless • Cost: About $6 USD. Internet access, satellite TV, and private bath • Find your center during waterfront yoga: with hair dryer. With green spaces, art and architecture Dinner: On your own. Ask your Trip displays, and more, Thessaloniki’s waterfront Experience Leader where you can find the has become an icon of recreation and leisure. best — bread with chicken or Sign up for yoga along the waterfront for a pork, sauce, tomatoes, and fried calming and introspective way to take in the potatoes—or , an -based dish sights and sounds of this seaside strip. with tomatoes, minced meat, and topped with a • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi white cream sauce. ride. Evening: You have the freedom to spend your • Hours: Varies by class schedule. first evening as you wish. Perhaps you’ll retire • Cost: About $45 USD. to your room to rest up before tomorrow’s • Hike : Follow in the foot- discoveries, or grab a drink with fellow steps of the twelve Olympian gods as you travelers at the hotel bar to discuss what you’re walk the hiking paths surrounding Mount looking forward to most on your upcoming Olympus. You’ll follow the Prionia trail, and adventure. hike through the Epineas Gorge. The trail is made up of several wooden bridges that Freedom To Explore: During your three days in pass over the Epineas stream. On your hike, Thessaloniki, you have the freedom to explore you’ll behold the thundering waters of the on your own during your free time. Below are Epineas waterfall and the black pines of the a few recommended options for independent surrounding forest. Plus, experience the explorations: footprint of World War II as you view Agios • Sample locally produced oil and Dionysios Monastery, which was destroyed at the Olicatessen: is boasted as the by German troops. Then, as your hike winds “gold of Greece,” while olives have earned to an end, you’ll discover the cave of Agios their spot as “caviar of the Mediterranean.” Dionisios, where the saint is said to have lived Learn about the most important varieties as a hermit. The hike in total will take up to 6 of these specialties, and even sample these hours to complete. delicacies during a seminar and tasting. While • How to get there: Transfer from hotel here, you’ll not only learn the basics of olive included in tour price. oil production and tasting, but you’ll also • Hours: 9am-5pm, Monday-Friday. learn how to select quality olive oil from the • Cost: About $195 USD. shelves of a store. Your seminar and tasting

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

13 Day 3 Explore Thessaloniki markets—the city’s main street market, Modiano; and Kapani, a 200-year-old market • Destination: Thessaloniki perched on a hilltop, with local shops and • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner . Following our discoveries around 1pm, • Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace you’ll have free time until dinner. Hotel or similar Lunch: On your own around 1pm in the vicinity Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at of the markets of Modiano and Kapani. Perhaps 7am, with local and American options available. you’ll peruse the food stalls at the markets, Morning: Around 9am, we’ll gather at the hotel keeping your eye out for fresh produce, or get for a 45-minute Welcome Briefing with your a taste of some of the street food, including Trip Experience Leader. During this briefing, kolouri, a Greek variation on what we know we’ll introduce ourselves and review our as bagels. itinerary in more detail (including any changes Afternoon: Free for your own that may need to occur). Our Trip Experience discoveries—perhaps you’ll take a stroll along Leader will also discuss logistics, safety and the city’s famous waterfront, or if you left some emergency procedures, and answer any room after lunch, perhaps you’ll do an olive oil questions we may have. seminar at the Olicatessen, where you sample Then around 10am, we’ll set out to explore this regional specialty and learn more about Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city the production process. We’ll reconvene at and the capital of the northern Greek region the hotel around 6:15pm to make a brief walk of Macedonia (not to be confused with the to dinner. neighboring Republic of Macedonia). First, Dinner: Tonight, we’ll have a Welcome Drink we’ll board a bus and drive about 20 minutes to and Welcome Dinner of regional specialties at a visit historic Ano Poli (Upper Town), the only local restaurant around 6:30pm. section of the city that managed to escape the devastating Great Thessaloniki Fire of 1917. Evening: Around 8:30pm, we’ll depart the We’ll wander through Ano Poli to admire the restaurant and walk back to the hotel. You have Byzantine churches, traditional pastel-painted the remainder of the evening to spend as you homes, and restaurants that cater to the locals. wish. Perhaps you’ll visit a local bar and enjoy Then around 11:15am, we’ll board our bus and the nightlife of Thessaloniki, or relax in the drive about 15 minutes to the the Museum of hotel lounge and recount today’s discoveries Byzantine Culture. The museum houses more with fellow travelers. than 3,000 Byzantine objects, from mosaics and tomb paintings to jewelry and glassware. Alongside each display, you’ll find explanations of daily life from the early-Christian to late-Byzantine eras. During our hour-long visit, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of these time periods.

Around 12:30pm, we’ll make a brief drive to the city center. We’ll spend some time exploring two of Thessaloniki’s bustling traditional

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

14 Day 4 Thessaloniki • Controversial Topic: three-to-five times more people than they are Greece’s refugee crisis with Nicholas designed to hold, and are plagued by violence Connolly Rangos • Mount Olympus • Dion and poverty. Upon witnessing the deplorable conditions, Nicholas realized that he needed • Destination: Thessaloniki to do more. He started by volunteering before • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch eventually accepting a full-time position with • Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace Solidarity Now. In his current role, he helps Hotel or similar refugees access vital support services and is Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries keenly aware of their plight. However, as a feature the Controversial Topic of the Greek citizen, he also has first-hand knowledge challenges refugees are facing in Greece with of the local attitudes toward the crisis. Nicholas Connolly Rangos, who works at a The biggest surge of refugees came in 2015, at pro-refugee non-governmental organization the height of the Greek financial crisis, when (NGO). This conversation will reveal Greece’s the country had just defaulted on nearly $2 role in Europe’s refugee crisis, and how local billion worth of debt and was struggling to attitudes toward refugees are changing as support its own citizens. Around the same the crisis wears on. Read more about this time, the decreed that anyone conversation below. seeking asylum in Europe would be required to Breakfast: Served at the hotel from 7am-8am remain in their EU country of entry until their with Greek and American options available. applications are processed. This ordeal can sometimes take years, leaving refugees stuck in Morning: Around 8am, we’ll board a bus bound a nightmarish limbo: unable to continue on to for the Solidarity Center, about 15 minutes wealthier nations like and Germany and away. The center is run by Solidarity Now, a unable to go home. As a result, many refugees local non-governmental organization dedicated no longer view Greece as their gateway to to supporting refugees, minorities, and other Europe, but as their final destination. vulnerable populations in Greece. Upon arrival, we’ll be met by Nicholas Connolly Rangos, a In recent years, several NGOs like Solidarity Project Coordinator for Solidarity Now, with Now have sprung up to help refugees integrate whom we’ll be discussing this morning’s into society by providing legal and employment Controversial Topic: the refugee crisis in counseling, healthcare, and even cash Greece. Since 2014, at least 80,000 documented assistance. And the EU has allocated hundreds refugees, primarily from war-torn Syria and of millions of euros to help Greece manage the Afghanistan, have arrived in Greece. At first, financial burden. But despite these efforts to were welcoming, providing food, jobs, ensure a smooth transition, prejudice against and clothing to the asylum seekers. However, refugees is mounting. as the crisis rages on with no end in sight, local At 15%, the unemployment rate in Greece attitudes toward refugees have soured. is one of the highest in Europe, and locals Nicholas first learned of the refugee crisis resent the idea that refugees may be taking in late 2015, and like so many Greeks at the jobs (and government-funded services) away time, he felt compelled to help. His support from citizens. In a 2018 poll, 74% of Greeks was monetary at first, until he visited a said refugees were an economic burden. refugee camp—most of which are packed with They also worry that the proliferation of

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15 refugee camps—especially on the popular Afternoon: We’ll depart the restaurant by coach Aegean islands—will damage Greece’s $22 around 2:45pm, returning to Thessaloniki by billion-dollar-a-year industry. about 4:15pm, and for the rest of the afternoon you may explore on your own. Perhaps you’ll As a result of these fears, Greeks elected the take a scenic cruise on a pirate ship around the leader of the right-wing New Democracy Thermaic Gulf, or visit the churches of Saint party, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, as prime minister Dimitrios and Saint Sophia. in 2019, encouraged by his promises to crack down on migration. Since his election, the Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip prime minister has cut refugees’ access to Experience Leader for local restaurant public healthcare, restricted access to schools, recommendations. Perhaps you’ll seek out the and painted them as national security threats. world-renowned , which typically includes Emboldened by these policies, landlords, roasted meat, and vegetables wrapped in a lenders, and employers reportedly regularly pita with special sauce, or —minced discriminate against refugees: two-thirds of meat layered with , sauce, and rental applications are denied, as are half of all béchamel sauce. credit applications, and half of all employed Evening: You have the freedom to spend the refugees have reported abuse at work. rest of your evening as you wish. You may stroll This complex issue will require time and ample along the waterfront, or choose to retire to your discussion to unravel. Nicholas will share his room and relax in preparation for tomorrow’s insights for about 15 minutes, and then we’ll discoveries. have approximately 45 minutes to ask the questions we are sure to have. Day 5 Thessaloniki • Royal Tombs of Following our conversation around 9:30am, Vergina • Meteora we’ll set off by coach for a 1.5-hour drive to • Destination: Meteora Mount Olympus, mythical home of the ancient • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Greek gods. Alongside a local guide, we’ll enjoy • Accommodations: Doupiani House or similar a hike near the foot of Mount Olympus at the Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am site of Dion, the sacred city of the Macedonians, with Greek and American options available. and the location of the Olympian Games that were held in honor of Zeus and the Muses. Morning: We begin our journey to Meteora It was here that Alexander the Great made by coach this morning. Departing around sacrifices to the gods before setting off to 8:30am, we’ll drive about 1.5 hours before conquer the ancient world. After taking in the stopping at the village of Vergina, home to natural beauty of our surroundings for about 1.5 Aigai, the ancient capital of the Macedonian hours, we’ll meet our coach and drive about 20 kings. Discovered beneath a man-made hill minutes to the village of Litohoro, where we’ll almost 40 years ago by Greek archaeologist pause for lunch. Manolis Andronikos, the sacred site contains the fourth-century BC tombs of King Philip Lunch: At a local restaurant in Litohoro around II—father of Alexander the Great—and other 1pm featuring local specialties. ancient royals, along with numerous items of daily life from the Macedonian era, housed in an underground museum. We’ll explore here

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16 for about 1.5 hours before we board our coach • Immerse yourself in all things Greece at the and drive about an hour to a local winery. Upon Hellenic Culture Museum: From ancient arrival around 12:30pm, you’ll have some time books, school supplies, and maps to mytho- to get acquainted with your surroundings and logical paintings, archival photographs, and enjoy the scenic vistas. more, let this private collection illuminate the culture, language, and . Lunch: At the winery around 1:15pm featuring You can explore three exhibition rooms: the regional specialties. Old School Room, Hall Aesop, and the Hall Afternoon: Around 3pm, we’ll continue our about Meteora. Take a step into Greece’s past drive to Meteora, a UNESCO World Heritage in the Old School Room, where old wooden Site known for its unique geology. Upon desks, vintage maps, and a blackboard are arrival around 6pm, we’ll check in to our displayed. Here, you can try your hand at hotel in Meteora, which will be our home writing either on a slate board or using a pen, base for the next two nights. Depending on ink, and blotting paper. Or, delve into the where we stay, our hotel may feature on-site mythical past of Greece in the Hall Aesop, amenities including a terrace, sun deck, and and more contemporary history in the Hall bar. Typical rooms include wireless Internet, about Meteora. air-conditioning, satellite TV, minibar, • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi refrigerator, and private bath with hair dryer. ride, about $20 USD one way. You’ll have about 45 minutes to relax before • Hours: 9am-3pm Monday-Friday; and we drive about 10 minutes to a local restaurant 11am-5pm Saturday-Sunday. around 6:45pm. • Cost: About $6 USD.

Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant • Discover The Cave of Theopetra: Step into featuring a live bouzouki musical performance. ancient history at this archaeological site, Traditionally used for dancing and first excavated in 1987. Within the cave walls entertainment at social gatherings, the are records of our early human ancestors, bouzouki has become one of the most popular from Neanderthal to modern human, and instruments of Greece, and this instrument from hunter-gatherers to farmers after is also played in a variety of musical genres the end of the last Ice Age. The first human around the world, including bluegrass, jazz, occupation of the cave has been dated back to rock, and folk. almost 130,000 years ago. Our regional office suggests asking ahead of time if the cave is open as it can be closed due to work being Evening: You have the freedom to spend the done. There are walkways constructed to rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps allow easy navigation within the cave. you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi the lounge. ride, about $30 USD one way. Freedom To Explore: During your two days • Hours: By appointment only. in Meteora, you have the freedom to explore • Cost: About $4 USD. on your own during your free time. Below are • Visit the Natural History Museum: Learn a few recommended options for independent about the mammals and birds of the area explorations: in the museum’s 300 exhibits, including fascinating discoveries about the unique

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17 dangers they face in their current ecosystems. be dependent on local restrictions at the time. Through dioramas mimicking the exact Around 12:45pm, we’ll board our bus and drive environment they inhabit, you can get a to Kalambaka. precise look into the lives of these creatures. Lunch: On your own in Kalambaka Town Plus, enjoy a fascinating exhibit dedicated around 1pm—ask your Trip Experience Leader to the growth and development phases of for local restaurant recommendations. Perhaps mushrooms. you’ll track down the area’s best Greek ; • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi while every restaurant has their own spin on it, ride, about $15 USD one way. the country’s famous staple will usually include • Hours: 9am-5pm Monday-Friday; and a delightful mix of fresh vegetables, 10am-6pm Saturday & Sunday. cheese, and olives. Or, seek out , a • Cost: About $6 USD. pastry filled with spinach, cheese (typically feta cheese), and herbs. Day 6 Explore Monasteries of Meteora • Home-Hosted Dinner Afternoon: You may enjoy some time on your own after lunch. Then around 2:45pm, we’ll • Destination: Meteora visit a nearby icon-painting workshop. Here, • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner our small group will meet with the artists who • Accommodations: Doupiani House or similar will share the sacred traditions surrounding Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: This evening we’ll their art. This is a great chance to ask questions, join a local family for a Home-Hosted Dinner. engage in conversation, and get a better sense As you dine on traditional, homemade dishes, of how spirituality plays into local life today. you’ll have the opportunity to ask your hosts Then, around 4:45pm, we’ll board our bus and about Greek customs, culture, and lifestyles. To drive about 15 minutes back to our hotel. You’ll facilitate more intimate conversation, you’ll be have a little under two hours to enjoy some broken into smaller groups of no more than 5 free time. travelers for this experience. Read more about Around 6:30pm, we’ll reconvene in the lobby to this activity below. begin making our way to local family’s homes Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am via taxi for our Home-Hosted Dinner. To with Greek and American options available. ensure an intimate experience, you’ll be broken into even smaller groups of no more than 5 Morning: We’ll set off around 8:45am and drive travelers for this special meal. about 15 minutes to witness the towering rock formations of the region, on top of which are Dinner: We’ll arrive at our family’s home built the famous monasteries of Meteora, some around 6:45pm and make our introductions. of which date back to the early 14th century. Our hosts hail from a variety of different The word meteora actually means “suspended backgrounds, from teachers and tradespeople, in the air,” and these astonishing retreats are to hospitality professionals, and homemakers. indeed perched atop pinnacles that rise about They’ll offer unique insights into what it’s like 1,000 feet from the valley floor. For centuries, to live in the shadows of Meteora’s mighty the monasteries served as Christian redoubts monasteries, while sharing stories that while the Ottoman Turks ruled Greece. In the highlight local customs. You’ll likely be joined company of a local guide this morning, we’ll by a second generation of family members as visit two of these historic structures, which will

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18 well—either children or grandparents—who pies, a regional specialty. In a group as small will provide their on perspectives on life as ours, this will be an excellent opportunity to in Greece. interact one-on-one with locals, ask questions, and get a sense of family dynamics in modern As you delight in spirited conversations about Greek society. Greek culture and lifestyles, you’ll also indulge in a hearty, multi-course meal prepared Lunch: We’ll have lunch in the taverna around by your hosts. You might have a chance to 1pm while our pies are baking, and then get to try topped with olives and feta sample our freshly-baked creations. cheese, or scoop up (sesame spread) or Afternoon: We’ll depart the restaurant around traramasalata ( dip) with bread. and 2pm, walking about a half hour to our bus. As lamb are popular main course options. And be we stroll the streets of Mestovo and through sure to save room for a sweet finish. the town square, we’ll seek out opportunities Evening: Our visit with the local family to interact with the locals we come across. By concludes around 8:15pm, at which time about 4pm, we’ll arrive and check in to our the taxis will be called to transport us back hotel in one of Zagoria’s mountain villages. to our hotel. Upon arrival around 8:30pm, Depending on where we stay, our hotel the remainder of the evening is on your may feature on-site amenities including a own—ask your Trip Experience Leader for bar and restaurant. Typical rooms feature recommendations. Perhaps you’ll stay in town air-conditioning, wireless Internet access, safe, and stop by a local café to try an authentic minibar, and private bath with hair dryer. You’ll Greek coffee, known for its particularly have about three hours of free time. rich flavor. Dinner: We’ll enjoy an included dinner together at the hotel this evening around 7pm. Day 7 Meteora • Visit Metsovo village • Zagoria Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish—ask your • Destination: Zagoria Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner You may want to try to find some late-night • Accommodations: Aristi Mountain Resort loukoumades, a well-known dessert made with or similar fried dough and . Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am Freedom To Explore: During your two days with Greek and American options available. in Zagoria, you have the freedom to explore Morning: Around 9am, we’ll board our bus on your own during your free time. Below are and set off to Metsovo, a small village nestled a few recommended options for independent in the Pindus Mountains and renowned for explorations: its stone mansions, cobbled streets, and • Visit the beautiful 19th-century Aristi Village longstanding cultural and craft traditions. Church: This church is dedicated to one of the Upon arrival around 10:30am, we’ll explore biggest religious celebrations in Greece, the Metsovo’s picturesque town square and enjoy Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Its high belfry a cooking lesson around 11:45am from a family can be spotted from afar. Perhaps you’ll stroll that owns a local taverna, where our small through the village square and enjoy a coffee group will get hands-on experience preparing before heading to the church to take in the

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19 scenic views. Operating on a limited schedule, Day 8 Explore Zagoria • Optional Vikos the church is occasionally open for masses. Gorge Rafting And even when closed, its setting between the • Destination: Zagoria peaceful village cemetery and bustling central square make it a great place to spend time. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Aristi Mountain Resort • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. or similar • Hours: Varies by season. • Cost: Free (donations welcome). Activity Note: Today is a very active day, featuring a 2-hour hike. The optional Vikos • Visit Zinovia’s Little Farm: Meet the owners Gorge Rafting excursion will not operate if of this small farm in the Greek countryside. water levels are too low. One of the owners will bring you on a tour of the farm and explain their organic farming Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at techniques. You’ll also delve into their goat 7am, with local and American options available. and bee keeping processes. Depending on the season, you may wish to try your own hand Morning: We’ll depart by bus around 8:30am, at milking the goats or other farm activities. journeying into the past to explore Zagoria, a Honey from their on-site bee hives can be scenic region in the Pindus Mountains dotted purchased. with hidden villages linked by mountain roads and arched stone bridges. Around 9am, we’ll How to get there: A 20- to 25-minute taxi • stop in Vitsa, a centuries-old village perched ride, approximately $23 USD one way. on a mountain slope near the Vikos Gorge, and Hours: 3pm-5pm, daily. • explore with a local mountain guide. About Cost: Free. • 12 miles long and a depth of some 3,000 feet • Take a horseback ride through the mountain- in spots, Guinness lists Vikos as the world’s ous Zagoria region: On this scenic ride, you’ll deepest canyon. Travelers can elect to hike follow trails forged by local herders on the down the famous Vitsa stairs (which date from outskirts of Megalo Papigo village. You can the 17th century), down to the tiny village of choose between a 30-minute or 45-minute . Around 11:30am we’ll board our ride that will take you through vast fields, bus and drive about 30 minutes to a local small dirt foot paths, and forests. Learn restaurant. more about the history of the area, including its hay production and cow- and goat-herd- Lunch: At a local restaurant around noon ing traditions. Along the way, enjoy a sweep- featuring traditional . ing view of the Vikos Gorge and the springs Afternoon: We’ll depart the restaurant around of the Voidomatis River. Both of these rides 1:45pm and drive about 30 minutes back to our are easy to moderate in difficulty and are hotel. The rest of the afternoon is yours to make designed for beginner to intermediate riders. your own discoveries. Or, you may join our • How to get there: A 20- to 25-minute taxi optional Vikos Gorge Rafting excursion, which ride, approximately $23 USD one way. features a raft ride along the crystal-clear • Hours: Must be booked in advance. waters of the Voidomatis River with • Cost: About $23 USD for a 30-minute ride experienced local guides. We’ll depart the hotel or about $28 USD for a 45-minute ride. around 3pm and drive about 15 minutes to the rafting site. Upon arrival, we’ll board our boats

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20 and cruise gently along the river. The optional Typical rooms include air-conditioning, a tour will take approximately three hours, and flat-screen TV, and private en suite bathroom around 6:30pm we’ll drive back to our hotel. with hair dryer. You’ll have about two hours of free time to explore on your own. Around Dinner: At the hotel around 7:30pm featuring 6:30pm, we’ll reconvene in the hotel lobby and regional and international options. walk about 30 minutes to a local restaurant. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Along the way, your Trip Experience Leader will rest of your evening as you wish—ask your familiarize our small group with the area on an Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. orientation walk. Perhaps you’ll seek out a nearby bar, or return Dinner: At a local restaurant around 7pm to your room to relax before tomorrow’s featuring regional specialties. discoveries. Evening: Around 8:45pm, we’ll depart the Day 9 Explore Ioannina • Journey to restaurant and walk about 15 minutes back to Gjirokaster, Albania our hotel, where you have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish—ask your • Destination: Gjirokaster Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Perhaps you’ll go for a stroll through the • Accommodations: Hotel Argjiro or similar Old Bazaar. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am with Greek and American options available. Day 10 A Day in the Life of Dhoksat village • Explore Gjirokaster Morning: Around 8:30am, we board our bus and begin our drive of about an hour to • Destination: Gjirokaster Ioannina. Our discoveries continue in this • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch regional capital situated on the western shores • Accommodations: Hotel Argjiro or similar of Lake Pamvotis. Ioannina was founded by Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the sixth feature a NEW A Day in the Life experience century CE, and was often referred to as the in the small village of Dhoksat. With a local “Metropolis of knowledge” during Byzantine farmer, Landi Koci, as our guide, we’ll be times. While here, we’ll have some free time immersed in rural Albanian life when we meet to stroll through the downtown area of this a goat herder and a winemaker, try our hand ancient lakeside city. Then, we’ll reconvene at traditional farming activities, and enjoy around 12:30pm to walk to a local restaurant. a homemade lunch. Read more about this Lunch: We’ll enjoy an included lunch at a local activity below. restaurant around 12:30pm. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am Afternoon: Around 2pm, we board our bus with Albanian and American options available. and begin our drive to leave Greece and cross Morning: Around 9am, we’ll board a bus the border into Albania. We’ll drive for about and begin our 30-minute drive to Dhoksat, 2 hours before we check in to our hotel in where we’ll enjoy our NEW A Day in the Life Gjirokaster, Albania, around 4pm. Depending experience. Nestled in the foothills of the where we stay, our hotel may feature on-site mountains, this unspoiled village is home to amenities including a bar and restaurant. just 130 residents. Upon arrival around 9:30am,

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21 we’ll meet one of them: Landi Koci, a local Lunch: We’ll gather around the family table farmer and fixture in the community. Landi’s around 12:15pm to enjoy the food we’ve family is the largest in Dhoksat, and his farm prepared and to learn more about the family. is one of the most successful. When villagers Our meal will conclude with a cup of traditional have questions about local affairs or need help Albanian coffee. navigating a government issue, Landi is the Afternoon: Around 1:30pm, we’ll begin our leader they turn to. 30-minute drive back to Gjirokaster. You may As we make our way from the bus into the choose to join your Trip Experience Leader center of town, we’ll pass through a dry creek on a 2-hour walk through this hillside town, bed that local shepherds use as pastureland. which begins at 3:30pm. Birthplace of Albanian Depending on the season, we may have a dictator Enver Hoxha, Gjirokaster is nicknamed chance to meet with one of these shepherds this the “City of Stone” for the distinctive stone morning. With Landi’s help, we’ll learn about roofs adorning its old homes and Ottoman-era the shepherd’s small flock of goats and sheep mansions, which are listed by UNESCO as a and hear details about his profession and life in World Heritage Site. We’re sure to spot them as the countryside. Continuing on to the heart of we stroll along the cobblestone streets leading the village, Landi will share the history of the to the Ottoman bazaar, whose origins go back village—including how it was impacted by the to the 17th century. Shops line the street selling reforms and repression of Albania’s communist traditional products, and we’ll see locals going era—as he points out some of the traditional about their daily routines. We’ll then continue homes and structures along our route: Stone on to Gjirokaster’s Ethnographic Museum, walls, red tile roofs, and wooden gates are the where Enver Hoxha was born. The home offers norm here, with sloping, cobbled alleyways insights into how a typical wealthy family of giving way to sandy paths. merchants or Ottoman administrators would live during the 19th century. Our explorations Our walk will conclude at Landi’s house, where conclude around 5:30pm at which time you’re we’ll meet his wife, Panorea, and his mother, free to continue exploring at leisure. Katrina. After touring their property, we’ll be invited to pitch in on the farm. Our exact Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip activity depends on the season—beekeeping, Experience Leader for local restaurant harvesting, churning, and even recommendations. Perhaps you’ll seek out local distilling raki are all necessary chores specialties such as Qebapa, which are grilled at different times of year. It’s quite likely beef and lamb sausages, or perime ne zgare—a we’ll have the opportunity to prepare dhalle, a popular appetizer of grilled vegetables, slightly salty -based drink that’s one of including eggplant, , tomatoes, , the most popular beverages in Albania. and peppers.

Around 11:15am, we’ll join Panorea and Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Katrina in the kitchen to help with lunch. The rest of your evening as you wish—ask your expression for eating a meal in Albania literally Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. translates to “going to eat bread,” and we’ll Perhaps you’ll join your fellow travelers on a likely be tasked with preparing the essential walk around our surroundings to take in the loaf. We might also make , a dried local scenery and nightlife. Or, you may retire to pasta-like ingredient resembling breadcrumbs. your room to relax.

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22 Day 11 Explore Butrint • Controversial revealed Albania’s past, our afternoon activity Topic: Domestic violence in patriarchal will be focused on present. Saranda is home Albania with a victim and a women’s to the Jona Association, a non-government rights advocate organization dedicated to advancing women’s rights in Albania. Upon arrival in Saranda, we’ll • Destination: Gjirokaster join a representative from this organization, • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch as well as a local woman, at a small hotel to • Accommodations: Hotel Argjiro or similar discuss a Controversial Topic: combating Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries domestic violence in male-dominated Albania. feature the Controversial Topic of domestic According to a 2018 survey, nearly 53% of violence in Albania with an abuse victim and Albanian women have been subjected to a representative from a local women’s rights sexual violence at least once in their lifetimes. organization. While this conversation may Unfortunately, our local speaker is one such be difficult to have, it will shed light on the victim. She will bravely share her experience inescapable—and often dire—issues women with us today, while the representative from face in this profoundly patriarchal society. Read Jona translates her story into English and more about this activity below. provides broader cultural context around the issue. Due to the sensitive nature of this topic, Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am our speakers have requested that we not use with Albanian and American options available. their names. They also ask that no photos or videos be taken during our hour-long Morning: We’ll depart by bus around 8:30am conversation. and embark on an excursion to explore the stunning ruins of Butrint, a UNESCO World Gender inequality is a long-standing issue in Heritage Site. Inhabited since prehistoric conservative Albania. Traditionally, men have times, Butrint was the site of a Greek colony, a been considered the heads of the household Roman city, and a bishopric of the Byzantine and have shouldered the family’s financial Empire. Following a period of prosperity under burdens, while women have been expected the Byzantines, then a brief occupation by the to be subservient mothers and homemakers. Venetians, the city was abandoned in the late The gender divide is even more pronounced Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area. in rural areas and small towns, where women Led by an expert local guide, we’ll explore are often seen as property rather than people. the archaeological site on foot for almost 2 This dehumanizing attitude, coupled with hours, marveling at the repository of ruins a sky-high unemployment rate of 18%, has representing each period in the ancient city’s resulted in dire conditions for women: 47% development. Around 11:45am, we’ll board have experienced domestic violence with our bus and drive about 15 minutes to a local an intimate partner, and nearly 66% have restaurant. experienced dating violence. In recent years, the government has made efforts to elevate Lunch: Around 12pm at a local seaside women’s status in society: Women are now restaurant featuring traditional legally permitted to own property, more than Albanian cuisine. half participate in the labor force, and nearly Afternoon: Around 1:45pm, we’ll finish lunch one quarter of parliament is composed of and begin making our way to Saranda, arriving around 2pm. While this morning’s excursion

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23 women. In 2013, Albania ratified the Istanbul Around 3:30pm, we’ll depart for our hotel in Convention, an international coalition designed Gjirokaster, arriving at approximately 4:30pm. to address violence against women. The remainder of the evening is free for your own discoveries. On paper, Albania is slowly making headway towards equality; in practice, however, the Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip country remains deeply patriarchal—and Experience Leader for local restaurant women continue to suffer at the hands of their recommendations. We recommend you look partners. Property ownership, while legal for for options that are known for their Qofte, fried women, is difficult to achieve since laws are seasoned meatballs served in delicious tomato poorly implemented and property is typically sauce, and usually served with vegetables passed down from fathers to sons. What’s or beans. more, women earn up to 35% less than men Evening: You have the freedom to spend the for the same work, making self-sufficiency rest of your evening as you wish—ask your almost impossible. As a result, women are also Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. forced to remain in abusive relationships out Perhaps you’ll get a drink at the hotel’s bar of necessity. Extended families rarely provide with fellow travelers. any support: Parents and siblings tend to side with male abusers, blaming the victim for bringing the violence on herself. Local police Day 12 Journey to Tirana • departments—which are typically made up Excursion to Berat almost entirely of men—are also unreliable: • Destination: Tirana They regularly fail to investigate domestic • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner violence cases, punish abusers, or enforce • Accommodations: Rogner Hotel or similar restraining orders. Since 2010, an estimated 120 women have been killed by intimate partners. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am with Albanian and American options available. During this difficult conversation this afternoon, our speaker will detail her Morning: Around 8am, we’ll check out of our experiences with domestic violence and explain hotel and begin our journey by bus through how she eventually managed to escape the Albania’s -producing region to Tirana, abuse. We’ll also learn about the steps NGOs with a stop along the way to witness the like Jona are taking to protect and empower stunning collection of Ottoman-style homes women throughout Albania. Since 2011, ten of Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We’ll of these organizations have been united stop for about an hour to explore around 11am. within the Albania Women Empower Network Our discoveries will include Berat Castle, a (AWEN) to provide counseling to victims, 2,500-year old fortress and “living castle” raise awareness, and advocate for change at situated high above the Osum River, where international, national, and local levels. After we’ll also enjoy a short walk around the castle. listening to our speaker and Jona representative Lunch: Included at a restaurant inside for approximately 15 minutes, we’ll have 45 Berat Castle around 12:30pm featuring minutes to ask any questions we might have. regional cuisine.

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24 Afternoon: Following lunch around 2:15pm, Museum of Secret Surveillance, this museum we’ll enjoy a stroll through the cobbled now chronicles the spying and torture streets and old houses of Berat with your Trip that went on here when Albania was under Experience Leader. We’ll pass by King Mosque, communist rule. This two-story structure built in the 15th century by the Ottoman sultan has 31 inter-connected rooms which hold a Bayezid II. Around 2:45pm, we’ll board our dark history. Separated into nine sections, bus and continue our drive to Tirana, arriving the museum exhibits varying pieces: from and checking in to our hotel around 5:15pm. displays of surveillance technology to the Depending on where we stay, our hotel may statements, work, and dossiers prepared by include on-site amenities such as a bar, informants of the state. Each exhibit presents restaurant, swimming pool, and fitness center. the communist perception of the enemies Typical rooms include air-conditioning, HD they were monitoring. TV, complimentary wireless Internet access, • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. and a private bath. Around 6:15pm, your Trip • Hours: 9am-5pm, Monday-Saturday. Experience Leader will lead an orientation walk • Cost: About $10 USD. through the “Blloku,” an exclusive quarter of • Shop and meet locals at the New Bazaar of the former communist party high officials, as Tirana: Located in Tirana’s Old Town, the we make our way to dinner. new bazaar is a large market and gathering Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant in place. In addition to regional fruits, vegeta- Blloku, or the Block, site of the former dictator bles, meat, and fish, the market also offers Enver Hoxha’s villa—once forbidden to the a selection of Albanian and raki, an public, the Block is now one of the city’s most -flavored alcoholic beverage. Enjoy vibrant districts. views of the nearby Kokonozi Mosque of Ottoman and its stone-covered façade. After Evening: Around 8:45pm, we’ll make our its 2017 renovation, the bazaar became a way back to the hotel on foot. You have the hotspot for locals to gather and socialize. freedom to spend the rest of your evening as You’ll see these locals going about their daily you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for routines, and perhaps you’ll even strike up a recommendations. Perhaps you’ll relax out by conversation with them. the hotel’s swimming pool, or get a drink at the hotel bar. • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. • Hours: 8am-11:30pm, daily Freedom To Explore: During your two days • Cost: Free. in Tirana, you have the freedom to explore on • Spend some time at the Grand Park of Tirana: your own during your free time. Below are a Known locally as one of the most relaxing few recommended options for independent places in the city, this park is situated on explorations: more than 700 acres of land. And with an • Relive some of Albania’s darkest days at the artificial lake, a church, the Presidential House of Leaves: Step into this building that Palace, and more, there’s plenty to see while actually housed Gestapo during World War II. exploring. You may run into locals running or The house was originally built as a medical walking as part of their daily routines. To one clinic in 1931, but was taken over during end of the park, there is a zoo and botanical World War II. In 2015, they transformed the garden. Within the botanical garden, you’ll house into a museum. Also known as the find native flora and fauna. You’ll also find

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25 defining memorials throughout the park Following our visit, the remainder of the dedicated to Albanian authors and those who day is free for your own discoveries. You can lost their lives in World War II. join our optional Dajti Mountain & Bunk’Art • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute walk. Museum tour, which departs around 12:30pm • Hours: Daily. and begins with a ride on the longest cable car • Cost: Free. in the Balkans over the Dajti mountain tops. While in the gondola, we’ll take in spectacular Day 13 Explore Tirana • Optional Dajti views of the landscape below. Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum tour Lunch: On your own for those who don’t take • Destination: Tirana this afternoon’s optional tour—ask your • Included Meals: Breakfast Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant • Accommodations: Rogner Hotel or similar recommendations. For those on the optional tour, lunch is included at a local Activity Note: If today’s optional Dajti restaurant overlooking the city of Tirana and its Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum tour falls on a adjacent valley around 1:30pm. Tuesday, then the Kruja optional tour will be offered instead. Read more details below. Afternoon: You may enjoy free time for the remainder of the day. Perhaps you’ll Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am stroll along the promenade at the Grand with Albanian and American options available. Park of Tirana, or visit the House of Leaves. Morning: Around 9:15am, we’ll depart the Travelers on our optional tour will visit the hotel and walk about 15 minutes to the National Bunk’Art Museum. A five-story, labyrinthine History Museum to learn about Albania’s underground bunker with over 100 rooms to turbulent history before and after World War II, explore, the design, origins, and history of the along with the country’s post-war difficulties museum will reveal the impact World War II under a Communist regime. The city was and the Cold War had on Albania’s trajectory founded in 1614 by Sulejman Pasha, who was from the 20th century onward. drawn here by its location at the crossroads Dinner: On your own. Perhaps at this point in of caravan routes, and flourished until the your adventure, you know exactly what local 19th century, when the death of the founder’s dishes you’d like to search for. Or, if you’d like grand-nephew, Kaplan Pasha, left the city to get a taste for local flavors, maybe you’ll under the control of a megalomaniac, Esat seek out fried kaçkavall, a salty cheese typically Toptani. It was not until Tirana was named served as an entrée in local restaurants. the capital of Albania in 1920 that it began to thrive again. Today, mud-brick houses and Evening: You have the freedom to spend the cobbled alleyways have largely been replaced rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps you’ll by modern architecture and wide paved streets, mingle with fellow travelers and discuss the hills have been reforested and inviting parks discoveries you’ve made on the adventure so created, and the gray façades that characterized far. Or, you might choose to return to your the Communist regime now exude a jumble of room to relax for the night. bright colors. In the company of a local guide, we’ll delve into this nation’s complex history for about two hours at the museum.

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26 Day 14 Journey to Ohrid, Macedonia • Explore the Monastery of Saint Naum: Originally built by Saint Naum in the ninth • Destination: Ohrid century, and rebuilt in the 16th century, the • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch monastery boasts beautiful multi-domed • Accommodations: City Palace Hotel Byzantine architecture. The central element or similar of this monastery complex is the Church of Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am the Holy Archangels. Enjoy the charming with Albanian and American options available. façade of this secluded church—surrounded by tall cypresses, traditional buildings, and Morning: At about 8:30am, we’ll depart red-tiles roofs—or enter the inside to admire Tirana by bus and make our way to Ohrid, the its distinct wood carvings and dedication to picturesque hillside city set along the shores of the holy Assumption of Saint Naum. You can Lake Ohrid in the Republic of Macedonia. Upon also enjoy a stroll through the complex’s arrival in Ohrid around 1pm, we’ll have a brief serene garden teeming with local flora, orientation walk. spouting fountains, and colorful peacocks. Lunch: At a local restaurant around 1:30pm. Plus, small row boats depart from the monas- tery, taking visitors across a lake to the sight Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll check in to our of stunning bubbling springs. hotel. Depending on where we stay, our hotel • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi may feature on-site amenities including a ride, about $30 USD. restaurant and spa. Typical rooms will feature • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. air-conditioning, cable TV, and a private en • Cost: About $5 USD. suite bathroom. You’re free to explore on your own for the remainder of the afternoon. • Visit Galichitsa Mountain and National Park: Nestled between Lake Ohrid and Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip , this rock-crested massif and Experience Leader for local restaurant surrounding national park are an idyllic place recommendations. lovers rejoice, as one to hike, take in the scenery, and witness of the area’s best-known specialties is their local wildlife. Traditional mountain villages makalo, a ubiquitous garlic sauce. Or, if you’re dot this craggy landscape, and more than in the mood for seafood, perhaps you’ll seek 1100 native plant species exist within the out grilled Ohrid , which locals usually national park—including 12 that can only like to pair with a red and be found here. On Lake Prespa, you can find . the rocky island of Golem Grad. Once home to a settlement between the fourth century Evening: You have the freedom to spend the BCE and sixth century CE and a monastery rest of your evening as you wish. You might complex in medieval times, this island is choose to take advantage of the hotel spa for now home to more natural inhabitants: wild some additional relaxation.

Freedom To Explore: During your two days in Ohrid, you have the freedom to explore on your own during your free time. Below are a few recommended options for independent explorations:

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27 tortoises, cormorants, and pelicans. Explore and vibrant cafés. At about 10am, we’ll stop at the island’s ancient ruins and get up close to a workshop specializing in world-renowned its distinct wildlife. Ohrid pearls, created through a secret process • How to get there: A 20- to 30-mile taxi passed down by just a few local families over ride, about $120 USD. several generations. Hearing about the history • Hours: Daily. and tradition from the people who know it best, • Cost: About $5 USD. we’ll come away with a better understanding of the local economy and culture. Plus, our small • Explore the Ohrid Icon Gallery: This small group size gives us the opportunity to make real museum holds an impressive collection connections with the people we meet. of religious artifacts. In addition to its collection of Macedonian icons, the gallery Then around 10:45am, we’ll walk 15 minutes contains liturgical objects spanning from the to a port to embark on a boat ride along the Byzantine era to the Macedonian Renaissance. lake’s azure waters to the Bay of the Bones The collection highlights the importance of and its “Museum on Water,” an open-air Saint Ohrid as a cultural and spiritual symbol reconstruction of a Neolithic lake dwelling since medieval times. All icons are very well based on artifacts found on the surrounding preserved, and boasted by many as vibrant lake bed. We’ll sail back around 12:30pm and and powerful. arrive back in Ohrid about 40 minutes later.

• How to get there: A 5- to 10-mile taxi ride, Lunch: On your own around 1pm. Ask your Trip about $5 USD. Experience Leader where you can try the best • Hours: 9am-5pm, Tuesday through pastrmaylia—a Macedonian bread pie topped Sunday. with either chicken or pork. • Cost: About $5 USD. Afternoon: After lunch, well regroup and take Day 15 Explore Ohrid • Boat ride to Bay of a short 15-minute taxi ride to the legendary the Bones & “Museum on Water” ruins at Ohrid: the Upper Gate. Out of the four that were built when the town was first • Destination: Ohrid established, two remain standing. We’ll take a • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner walking tour of the ruins and the surrounding • Accommodations: City Palace Hotel area area, during which our Trip Experience or similar Leader will talk about the history of the gates Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at and the town. Our next stop is the nearby Holy 7am, with local and American options available. Mother of God Peribleptos Church, which dates back to 1295. We’ll admire the Byzantine Morning: Combining historical heritage architecture and intricate frescoes adorning with natural beauty, the town of Ohrid is the walls. Lastly, we’ll step even further back Macedonia’s crown jewel. Set on the shores of in time at the Ancient Theatre of Ohrid, which Lake Ohrid, the lakeside town is one of Europe’s was built in 200 BCE and is the only Hellenistic oldest human settlements—and the entire theater remaining in Macedonia. Even Ohrid region is listed by UNESCO as a Natural today, performances are held at the theater and Cultural Heritage Site. We’ll depart on throughout the summertime. foot around 9am for a walking tour along the narrow streets of Ohrid’s compact Old Town, a blend of old churches, modern restaurants,

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28 Our tour wraps up around 3:45pm, at which for North Macedonia’s ethnic Albanian point rest of the day is yours to pursue minority, who are Muslim in a predominantly individual interests in Ohrid. Or you may wish Orthodox Christian country. We’ll learn more to simply relax along the lakeside promenade to about this minority population when we meet take in the region’s natural beauty. with a local ethnic Albanian speaker to discuss the Controversial Topic of discrimination Dinner: Tonight, we’ll gather together and against Albanians living in North Macedonia. head out to a local restaurant around 7:30pm for an included dinner featuring a performance About a quarter of North Macedonia’s two of Macedonian folk music. million residents are ethnic Albanians—making North Macedonia the country with the largest Evening: You have the freedom to spend the percentage of ethnic minorities in all of Europe. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip On the surface, it seems as though the two Experience Leader for recommendations. groups have found a way to peacefully coexist, with the North Macedonian government Day 16 Depart for Skopje • Controversial passing a series of legislative efforts to ensure Topic: Ethnic Albanian discrimination equal treatment of Albanians: Albania’s in North Macedonia with local mosque residents have the right, for example, to receive leader Mensur Miftari • Discover • their education—from primary school to Boat ride in Matka Canyon university—in Albanian; they are able to freely practice Islam in mosques around the country; • Destination: Skopje they have their own political parties with • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner representatives in Parliament; and the Albanian • Accommodations: Hotel StoneBridge language is now the second official language in or similar North Macedonia. Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: During today’s And yet, ethnic tensions have long been discoveries at Šarena Džamija, or the “Colorful . To understand why, it helps to Mosque,” we’ll learn about the Controversial understand the complex—and at times, Topic of discrimination faced by the ethnic bloody—history of the region. North Macedonia Albanian minority population living in North was established as an independent nation in Macedonia. We ask that you bring an open 1991, after the dissolution of Yugoslavia and mind to this sensitive discussion, which will the Balkan War. In the three decades prior be led by local mosque leader and ethnic to Yugoslavia’s collapse, more and more Albanian Mensur Miftari. Read more about this ethnic Albanians began moving to North activity below. Macedonia—in 1961, for example, only 13% Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at of the population was ethnic Albanian. Ethnic 7am, with local and American options available. Macedonians fear the steadily rising number of Albanians. In particular, they worry that, after Morning: We depart for Skopje by bus around finally achieving statehood a mere thirty years 8am. Along the way, we’ll enjoy a stop in ago, North Macedonia risks becoming part of Tetovo, where we’ll visit the city’s unique “Greater Albania” if it continues giving in to Šarena Džamija around 10:30am, an ancient the ethnic Albanians’ demands. mosque decorated with bright floral paintings. The mosque is a place of significant importance

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29 For a personal perspective on the situation, 4pm. We’ll enjoy a brief orientation walk to we’ll meet with Mensur Miftari, an ethnic familiarize ourselves with the area. Depending Albanian, North Macedonian citizen, and head on where we stay, our hotel may feature on-site of the Pasha Mosque. Mr. Miftari was born in amenities including a rooftop restaurant, 1967 and has thus had an up-close view on bar, fitness center, pool, and Jacuzzi. Typical Albanian-Macedonian relations both before rooms may feature air-conditioning, LCD TV, and after North Macedonia became a state. telephone, Internet, minibar, safe, and private We’ll hear from him what it’s like to be part of bath. We’ll depart on foot for a 15-minute walk an ethnic minority and what struggles members to a local restaurant around 6:45pm. of his community continue to face, despite Dinner: At a local restaurant around 7pm, government intervention. As we’ll learn, one featuring local cuisine. of the ongoing issues is perceived xenophobia from North Macedonians. Many ethnic Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Albanians feel their cultural heritage is being rest of your evening as you wish—ask your threatened by intolerance and deeply-rooted Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Slavic hatred towards them. In addition, Perhaps you’ll use this time to visit the hotel’s barriers to achieving Macedonian citizenship fitness center, or enjoy a nightcap at the make some ethnic Albanians feel their future in on-site bar. North Macedonia is uncertain. Freedom To Explore: During your two days You’ll have plenty of time to hear Mr. Miftari’s in Skopje, you have the freedom to explore on views on these issues and more. You’ll also have your own during your free time. Below are a about 45 minutes to ask him any questions you few recommended options for independent may have on the intricacies of this complex explorations: situation. While discussions of this nature may be sensitive and, for some, uncomfortable, • Visit Chateau Kamnik Winery: Resembling we feel they are critical to understanding a fairy-tale-like castle, this boutique winery modern-day North Macedonia. is set among rolling countryside hills. Enjoy scenic views of the rows of vineyards and We’ll conclude our discussion with Mr. Miftari the surrounding mountains as you sip on a around 11:30am and then drive to Matka glass of regional wine. With a modern Canyon. Around 12:30pm we’ll begin exploring on traditional Macedonian wine production, the deep mountain gorge surrounding a the vineyard offers a variety of red, white, man-made lake formed by the damming of the orange, and sparkling wines. Perhaps you’ll River Treska. Following our discoveries, we’ll take part in a wine tasting, where you’ll visit walk to a local restaurant. the vineyards and wine cellar to better un- derstand the and wine production Lunch: At a local restaurant around 1pm, process. Or, savor a meal of international or featuring regional specialties. regional cuisine at the restaurant attached to Afternoon: At about 2pm, we’ll view some the winery. of the region’s scenery during a boat ride • How to get there: A 5- to 10-mile taxi ride, along the river canyon, and learn about the about $10 USD one way. region’s ecosystem at one of the many natural • Hours: 8am-10pm, daily. caves found here. We’ll depart for Skopje • Cost: Email [email protected] around 3:30pm, and arrive at our hotel around to inquire about pricing.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

30 • Marvel at the Millenium Cross: Sitting atop Day 17 Explore Skopje Vodmo Mountain and standing at over 200 • Destination: Skopje feet, this landmark pays tribute to 2,000 • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner years of Christianity. The monument’s design reflects a 4th-century mosaic. Take • Accommodations: Hotel StoneBridge a cable car ride to see the monument, and or similar perhaps take the elevator to the top of the Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at monument for panoramic views of Skopje. 7am, with local and American options available. It’s recommended to use the bathroom prior to departing and to bring water as there is no Morning: After breakfast, we’ll set off around running water at the top of the mountain. 9am to explore several highlights of the Macedonian capital on a walking tour, including How to get there: A 5- to 10-mile taxi ride, • the rich repository of historical and cultural about $5 USD. heritage at the Archaeological Museum, a Hours: Varies by season. Please ask your • massive, Italianate-styled building. We’ll make Trip Experience Leader. our way here around 10am, and spend about Cost: About $5 USD. • an hour exploring. Inside, there are numerous • Explore one of the largest museums in archaeological excavations displayed. A Macedonia, the Contemporary Art Museum few highlights of the museum include 3D of Macedonia: Founded in 1963 and donated reconstructions of early Macedonian faces from as a gift from following a disastrous skulls found during excavations, a replica of an earthquake, this museum was the first of its early Christina basilica, and a Phoenician royal kind in the Balkans. Its extensive collection necropolis. Following our discoveries, we’ll aims to connect people with domestic and make begin our exploration of the older part of international contemporary art. International the city: the Old Turkish Bazaar. We’ll meander exhibitions include pieces from Picasso, the narrow., cobbled streets, keeping an eye out Léger, Hockney, Meret Oppenheim and for interactions with local Macedonians. Your Bridget Riley. Temporary exhibitions of Trip Experience Leader will guide us through foreign and local art are also on display. Plus, this chaotic assortment of traditional shops and enjoy panoramic views of Skopje before or authentic restaurants. We’ll end our discoveries after your visit from the hilltop the muse- here, where you’ll be in the vicinity of many um rests on. local shops and restaurants. How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi • Lunch: On your own around 1pm. Seek out ride, about $5 USD. with minced calf meat and onions in one Hours: 10am-5pm, Tuesday-Saturday; • of the many traditional restaurants in the Old 9am-1pm, Sunday. Turkish Bazaar. • Cost: About $5 USD. Afternoon: The balance of the afternoon is set aside for individual pursuits in Skopje. Perhaps you’ll sample local vintages at the Chateau Kamnik Winery. Or, if you are looking for more historical discoveries, maybe you’ll set out to the Contemporary Art Museum of Macedonia.

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31 Dinner: This evening, we’ll gather around Day 18 Return to U.S. or begin 7pm to celebrate our discoveries during a post-trip extension festive Farewell Dinner at a local restaurant • Included Meals: Breakfast featuring music. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at Evening: You have the freedom to spend the 7am, with local and American options available. rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps you and your fellow travelers will spend time Morning: We transfer to the airport for our together in the hotel bar, reminiscing about all return flight home, or to begin our Highlights the experiences you’ve had in the Balkans. of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Sad post-trip extension. Travelers on our New! Kosovo’s Cultural Renaissance: Prizren & Pristina post-trip extension will begin their overland journey across the border.

END YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL POST-TRIP EXTENSION 6 nights in Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Sad

Day 1 Transfer to Nis, Serbia Day 4 Explore Belgrade • Optional From Royalty to Today’s Belgrade tour Day 2 Explore Nis • Visit Nis Fortress & Red Cross Concentration Camp Day 5 Excursion to Sremski Karlovci and Novi Sad Day 3 Transfer to Belgrade • Explore Topola and Oplenac Day 6 Belgrade • Excursion to Kovacica Day 7 Depart for the U.S.

OR 5 nights in Kosovo’s Cultural Renaissance: Prizren & Pristina

Day 1 Overland to Prizren, Kosovo • Visit Day 4 Overland to Pristina • Discover Gracanica Monastery Decani Monastery & Patriarchate of Peja • Explore Pristina Day 2 Explore Prizren • Visit local winery Day 5 Visit Battle of Kosovo Monument & Day 3 Visit local farm Adem Jashari Memorial Complex • Meet former Kosovo Liberation Army fighter Day 6 Return to U.S.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

32 OPTIONAL TOURS

During your trip you will be able to book optional tours directly with your Trip Experience Leader. He or she will ask you to confirm the payment for these tours by filling out a payment form. Optional tours can only be purchased with a credit or debit card. We accept Visa, MasterCard, and Discover credit cards. We also accept Visa and MasterCard debit cards, but it must be a debit card that allows you to sign for purchases.

In order to correctly process these charges, there can be a delay of 2-3 months from the date of your return for the charges to be posted to your account. Therefore we ask that you use a card that will not expire in the 2-3 months following your return.

Please note: Optional tour prices are listed in U.S. dollar estimates determined at the time of publication and are subject to change. Optional tours may vary.

Vikos Gorge Rafting Please Note: This optional tour is not available (Day 8 $75 per person) on Tuesdays. When unavailable, we will offer a replacement optional tour to the hilltop This afternoon’s optional tour features a gentle town of Kruja. raft ride along the crystal-clear waters of the Voidomatis River. The scenery unfolding during your ride includes several springs, small cascades of water, and arched stone bridges. Experienced local guides will lead the tour.

Dajti Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum (Day 13 $75 per person)

This optional tour takes us first on the longest cable car in the Balkans over the Dajti mountain tops. While in the gondola, we’ll take in spectacular views of the landscape below, and once at the top, we’ll enjoy an included lunch at a restaurant overlooking the city of Tirana and its adjacent valley. After witnessing the city from above, we’ll then venture to its depths with a visit to the Bunk’Art Museum. A five-story, labyrinthine underground bunker with over 100 rooms to explore, the design, origins, and history of the museum will reveal the impact World War II and the Cold War had on Albania’s trajectory from the 20th century onward.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

33 PRE-TRIP Ancient Greece: Athens & the Isle of Crete

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations for 2 nights in Athens » 7 small group activities at the Hera Hotel or similar, 2 nights in » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Chania at the Kydon Hotel or similar, and 2 Experience Leader nights in Heraklion at the Olive Green Hotel » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and or similar luggage porters » 10 meals—6 breakfasts, 2 » All transfers lunches, 2 dinners

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Extend your discoveries by exploring Athens and Crete. Visit iconic sites like the Acropolis in Athens, and explore Crete, Greece’s largest and most populated island, whose roots date back to one of Europe’s earliest documented civilization: the Minoans.

Day 1 Depart for Athens, Greece Later in the afternoon, our Trip Experience Leader will take us on a short orientation • Destination: Athens walk around the hotel to get acquainted with Afternoon/Evening: Depart today on your the area, including where to find an ATM or overnight flight to Athens, Greece. Please anything you might need. refer to your individual air itinerary for exact departure and arrival times. Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience Leader will be happy to provide dining Day 2 Arrive Athens, Greece recommendations, whether you want to find authentic moussaka or a nearby bar to enjoy • Destination: Athens some . • Accommodations: Hera Hotel or similar Evening: The remainder of your evening is free. Afternoon: Depending on your flight schedule, You may like to take a nighttime stroll through arrive in Athens, Greece, where a representative the city, or retire early to your room after your will meet you at the airport and assist with overnight flight. your 45-minute bus transfer to your hotel. Depending on where we stay, our hotel may Freedom To Explore: During your two days in feature air-conditioned rooms with coffee- and Athens, you have the freedom to explore this tea-making facilities, high-speed wireless ancient capital on your own during your free Internet access, telephone, a private bath with a time. Below are a few recommended options for hair dryer, and a safe. independent explorations:

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

34 • Explore the multi-faceted complex of Stavros buildings in Athens, including the Parliament Niarchos Park: Located in the scenic bay building, Kallimarmaro Stadium (Panathinaic of Faliro, the environmentally sustainable Stadium) and the temple of Olympian Zeus. grounds are comprised of a park, a new, • How to get there: A 5-minute taxi ride, state-of-the-art national library, as well as about $40 USD one way. the Greek National Opera. Here, you have the • Hours: 6am-8pm, daily. opportunity to enjoy cultural events, engage • Cost: Free. in educational activities, stroll the landscaped walking paths, enjoy a meal in the on-site Day 3 Athens • The Acropolis • Plaka & catering facilities, and mingle with locals. Monastiraki Square At the highest point of the park, there is a • Destination: Athens lighthouse, where visitors are able to enjoy a panoramic view of both Athens and the sea. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner • Accommodations: Hera Hotel or similar • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi ride, about $12 USD one way. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at • Hours: 6am-8pm, Monday-Friday; 6am- 7am, featuring local and American options. 10pm, Saturday & Sunday. Morning: Around 9am, we’ll enjoy a Welcome • Cost: Free. Briefing with our Trip Experience Leader. • Witness a sweeping view of Athens on a cable During this briefing, we’ll introduce ourselves car ride up Mount Lycabettus: Perched on and review our itinerary in more detail a limestone hill almost 1,000 feet above sea (including any changes that may need to occur). level, Mount Lycabettus is arguably one of Our Trip Experience Leader will also discuss the best vantage points in the area. A stroll logistics, safety and emergency procedures, and around the hill provides a great opportunity answer any questions we may have. for those who enjoy a walk with a bird’s eye view of their surroundings. Mount Lycabettus Then, around 10:15am we’ll set out with our is comprised of cretaceous limestone, which Trip Experience Leader and a local guide to means it’s tens of millions years old. soak up Athens’ magnificent history. One of the oldest cities in existence, Athens is • How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, considered the birthplace of democracy and has about $9 USD one way. long been a hot spot for many of the artistic, • Hours: 9am-2:30pm, daily. philosophical, and political developments that • Cost: Free. continue to shape our world. We’ll begin our • Escape to the verdant grounds of the National discoveries with a visit to one of the city’s most Garden of Athens: Spanning almost 40 acres, iconic sites, the Acropolis. Constructed under the National Garden was commissioned by the guidance of Pericles, the leader of ancient Queen Amalia in 1838. It contains ancient Athens, the Acropolis sits perched above ruins and mosaics among other interesting the city, its historically and architecturally features. Peruse the historical relics and significant remnants—including the wander the lush grounds of this natural gem. Parthenon—providing glimpses into Greece’s You may also want to explore the vicinity Golden Age. around the gardens. Just next to them is the building of Zappeion, an exhibition hall surrounded by some of the most important

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

35 After witnessing the site firsthand, we’ll Day 4 Athens • Fly to Chania continue our discoveries around 11:30am at the • Destination: Chania Acropolis Museum, a tribute to the site’s many • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner archaeological treasures. The exhibitions in the museum reflect the immense cultural riches • Accommodations: Kydon Hotel or similar of Greece. We’ll then cap off our explorations Early Morning: We wake early this morning in Athens with a stroll through Plaka around and depart for about a 45-minute bus 12:30pm, the city’s oldest neighborhood, whose transfer to the airport for our flight to Chania serpentine streets spill down the slopes off the around 5:30am. northern and eastern sides of the Acropolis. Arriving in Monastiraki Square, perhaps Breakfast: To ensure a timely transfer, we’ll Athens’ most popular shopping district, you bring boxed breakfasts from the hotel along may enjoy some free time to explore and mingle with us, with the opportunity to eat in transit or with locals. when we arrive at the gate.

Lunch: On your own in Monastiraki Square Morning: This morning, our 1-hour flight to around 1:30pm. Check with your Trip Crete departs around 8am. The largest and most Experience Leader for ideas. Perhaps you’d heavily populated of the Greek islands, Crete’s like to seek out a gyro, rotisserie-cooked meat roots date back to Europe’s earliest documented served in a type of pita wrap along with tomato, civilization, the Minoans, who existed during , and tzatziki sauce. You might also try the Bronze Age, predating what we know briam, a medley of traditional Mediterranean as ancient Greece. A mountainous expanse flavors including eggplant, bell peppers, spotted with gorges, rivers, and lakes, Crete is zucchini, potatoes, cherry tomatoes, shallots, distinctive in its beauty. Upon landing around carrots, and garlic mixed with herbs, roasted to 9am, we will transfer to our hotel, about an perfection, and topped with tomato sauce. hour away, to briefly check in and deposit our luggage. Depending on where we stay, our hotel Afternoon: We’ll continue our exploration may feature air-conditioned rooms including after lunch on our own. Perhaps you want to a balcony or terrace, wireless Internet access, stroll the idyllic pedestrian street Dionysiou telephone, satellite TV, and private bath. Areopagitou or visit another one of the many museums in the area. Your Trip Experience Our Cretan journey begins around 10am as Leader is also happy to provide suggested we join a local guide for our discoveries in activities. Chania, the island’s second largest city. We’ll start off with a walking tour departing from Around 6:45pm, we’ll depart for the 15-minute our hotel through the narrow, winding streets drive to our dinner spot for the evening. of the war-torn Old Town. Lined by what’s left of an old Venetian wall that was mostly Dinner: We’ll gather as a group for dinner in a destroyed during World War II, the Old Town local restaurant around 7pm. offers beautiful harbor views and fascinating Evening: You have the freedom to spend the excavated remains of an ancient Minoan city. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip We’ll stroll through the Agora, a lively market Experience Leader for recommendations. on the border of the Old Town and the modern city. We’ll also stop to admire the town’s Agios Nikolaos Church and Kucuk Hasan mosque,

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

36 getting a sense of the different architectural memorialized for their struggle to unify with and spiritual influences that shaped the mainland Greece. A reservation is recom- area. Around 10:45am, we’ll pay a visit to the mended, as this is a popular spot (especially Archaeological Museum of Chania, where on weekends). artifacts reveal the city’s cultural development • How to get there: A 15-minute taxi ride, from the Neolithic period to the Roman period. about $8 USD one way. Lunch: On your own around noon—ask your • Hours: 10am-12am, daily. Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant • Cost: Free. recommendations. You might take this • Experience authentic Cretan olive oil with opportunity to savor sarikopitakia, a Cretan a Biolea Olive Oil tour: Open to culinary specialty. These coil-shaped pastries are filled connoisseurs year-round, pay a visit to the with sheep’s cheese, then fried in olive oil and Biolea olive oil estate, where you’ll tour topped with warm honey. production facilities, watch a short film about winter production, as well as enjoy a tasting Afternoon: We’ll resume our walking tour at of their three distinguished products. You’ll the Maritime Museum around 1:30pm, followed also have the opportunity to observe olive by a stroll around the surrounding area. Around oil production from the mezzanine of the 3:30pm, we’ll head back to the hotel to enjoy olive mill, providing a bird’s eye view of the free time or rest before our small group gathers entire process. for dinner. • How to get there: A 45-minute taxi ride, Around 6:45pm, we’ll depart for the 15-minute about $113 USD one way. drive to to dinner. • Hours: 10am-6pm, Monday-Saturday. • Cost: Free. Dinner: Around 7pm we’ll sit down for an included dinner at a local restaurant. • Delight in the craggy coast and turquoise waters of Agioi Apostoli: Board a boat from Evening: You have the freedom to spend the the old port and visit pristine nearby beaches, rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip with the opportunity to snorkel, swim, and Experience Leader for recommendations. explore. You’ll encounter sea life, relax in the tranquil waters, and enjoy sweeping views Freedom To Explore: During your two days in of the shoreline. This particular area is also Chania, you have the freedom to explore the famous for its protected coves, which you are island’s second largest city on your own during free to explore. Depending on the tour, this your free time. Below are a few recommended activity may run from 1 to almost 4 hours. options for independent explorations: • How to get there: A 5-minute walk. • Take in the lovely views and history of Chania • Hours: Varies. with a visit to Koukouvaya Café & Venizelos • Cost: Ranges from about $10-$35 USD. Tombs: Perched atop a hill overlooking the town, Koukouvaya Café is a favorite hangout for locals and those looking to appreciate the landscape of the surrounding area over a cup of coffee or sweet treat. Directly next to the café is a park containing the tombs of the Venizelos family, prominent political leaders

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37 Day 5 Chania Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant • Destination: Chania recommendations. One specialty you might • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch want to try is , a light, yet filling, salad • Accommodations: Kydon Hotel or similar of tomato, myzithra (creamy sheep or goat Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at cheese), and herbs, set atop a slice of bread or 7am, featuring local and American options. paximadi (barley rusk) soaked in olive oil.

Morning: With its Minoan roots and geographic Evening: You have the freedom to spend the separation from mainland Greece, Crete rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip developed a culture—including its own Experience Leader for recommendations. mythology, poetry, music, and more—that’s divergent from typical Greek culture. Its Day 6 Overland to Rethymno • climate, biodiversity, and natural environment, Home-Hosted Lunch • Heraklion are also quite unique. With both Mediterranean • Destination: Heraklion and North African climates, Crete is an • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch agricultural superpower where summer fruits and vegetables grow year-round. The island • Accommodations: Capsis Astoria or similar also hosts a wide range of flora and fauna, Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at including swallows that forego their species’ 7am, featuring local and American options. typical African migration to reside in Crete full time. Morning: Around 8:30am, we’ll depart for Heraklion, but first stop in Rethymno, a city Around 8:30am, we’ll depart for about a situated on the north coast. We’ll arrive around 30-minute drive to a lush botanical park just 9:45am, at which time we’ll begin our day with outside of Chania, where we’ll witness some a walking tour through the Old Town, an area of of this biodiversity firsthand. Around 9:15am, the city whose layout has remained unchanged we’ll enjoy an introduction to local herbs since the 17th century. From the quaint and Cretan nature. Then, we gather fresh tavernas to the old world ambiance, we’ll go ingredients from the gardens, and enjoy a back in time wandering the narrow streets. cooking lesson with a local, where we’ll get We’ll later visit the Folk Art Museum, featuring hands-on experience preparing a regional collections of ancient clothing, crafts, tools, specialty using the ingredients we found. Next, and furniture. we take about a 1.5-hour hike in the botanical park, beginning around 10:45am. On our guided Around 12:15pm we’ll depart for the 15-minute hike, we’ll see plants native to five different drive to the home of a local family. continents. We’ll also learn about these flora in Lunch: Around 12:30pm we’ll enjoy a preparation for the lunch we will soon cook. traditional meal during a Home-Hosted Lunch Lunch: Around 12:30pm we’ll enjoy lunch with a local family. We’ll have the opportunity together in the garden, where our hike ends. to experience authentic Cretan cooking, as well as ask the family any questions we may have Afternoon: Around 2:30pm, we’ll drive back about daily life and culture. into town where you may enjoy some time to relax or seek out your own discoveries.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

38 Afternoon: Around 3pm, we continue on • Experience the Bronze Age of Aegean with about a 2-hour drive to Crete’s capital, Civilization at the Heraklion Archaeological Heraklion. After checking in to the hotel, the Museum: The archaeological museum of rest of the day is yours to enjoy on your own Heraklion is considered one of the greatest terms. Depending on where we stay, our hotel museums in all of Greece, housing the most may feature on-site amenities including a extensive and notable collection of Minoan swimming pool and restaurant and bar. Typical art in existence. Peruse the impressive rooms include wireless Internet access, a safe, exhibitions covering a chronological span of and a mini-fridge. over 5,500 years from the Neolithic period to Roman times. The museum is located in In terms of afternoon activities, we recommend the city center and was founded in 1883, but a visit to Lions Square, named after the the building it’s currently housed in wasn’t Cretan statesman . It erected until around 1937. dates back to the Venetian era and contains a renowned Venetian-era fountain appropriately • How to get there: A 5-minute walk. named “The Lions.” For more architectural • Hours: 8am-8pm, Monday-Sunday. marvels, visit the stunning churches in • Cost: Free. St. Catherine’s Square or walk along the • Bask in the sun at Karteros Beach: Located pedestrian street of 25th of August, lined with just a few miles outside of Heraklion, Karteros shops and restaurants leading down to the Beach is a favorite coastal spot for those magnificent harbor. looking to take advantage of the many aquatic opportunities. Go for a relaxing swim, lounge Dinner: On your own—your Trip Experience on the picturesque beach, and if the mood Leader is always available to provide strikes, stop by one of the beach cafés serving recommendations. Maybe you’ll try apaki, food and cool refreshments. a Cretan recipe for salted pork. Marinated in vinegar for several days, apaki is then • How to get there: A 15-minute taxi ride, slow-smoked with local herbs and , about $17 USD one way. resulting in a delectable flavor that can be • Hours: Open 24 hours, 7 days a week. enjoyed as its own meal, or as an ingredient in • Cost: Free. omelets, , or other dishes. • Explore the vivid aquatic world of Crete at CretAquarium: Witness the wide breadth and Evening: You have the freedom to spend the abundance of species in the Mediterranean rest of your evening as you wish—ask your marine world. Among other creatures, you’ll Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. have the opportunity to come face to face Perhaps you’ll spend some time at the hotel’s with an , allowing you to examine bar and try some of the region’s famous wines. its behavior and habitat. A visit to the Freedom To Explore: During your two days CretAquarium is ideal for anyone interested in Heraklion, you have the freedom to explore in learning about and admiring local aquatic Crete’s capital city on your own during your life. You can also enjoy a relaxing break at the free time. Below are a few recommended options for independent explorations:

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

39 on-site Café- Restaurant Thalassea, where Lunch: On your own, for those who don’t take you’ll find a variety of salads, , seafood the optional tour. Your Trip Experience Leader dishes, and drinks to choose from. is always happy to provide ideas. For those who • How to get there: A 15-minute taxi ride, do join the tour, a seafood lunch is included at a about $23 USD one way. local restaurant around 1pm in Plaqa. • Hours: 9:30am-7pm, Monday-Sunday. Afternoon: For those who joined the optional • Cost: About $10 USD. tour, we’ll return to Heraklion around 4:30pm, after which the entire group may enjoy Day 7 Heraklion • Optional Spinalonga: free time. The Leper Colony tour Dinner: On your own—this is your chance • Destination: Heraklion to sample some of your new favorite dishes • Included Meals: Breakfast once more before concluding your pre-trip • Accommodations: Capsis Astoria or similar extension. Perhaps you’ll celebrate your Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at journey with gamopilafo, a meat and rice dish 7am, featuring local and American options. traditionally enjoyed at Cretan . Gamopilafo is prepared by roasting high-quality Morning: Our exploration of Crete’s capital city meat—typically goat, lamb, or chicken—and begins around 8am when we’ll depart for the then cooking the rice in the broth, for a savory 15-minute drive to the Knossos Archaeological and complimentary flavor. Site in Heraklion. Here, we’ll witness the ruins of a 1,300-room palace complex from what is Evening: You have the freedom to spend the considered to be Europe’s oldest city. Dating rest of your evening as you wish. back to the Bronze Age, the site reveals insights into the Minoan civilization. Day 8 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece •

Around 10am, you may choose to spend the rest Begin main trip of the day making discoveries on your own, or • Included Meals: Breakfast join us on our optional Spinalonga: The Leper Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at Colony tour. Originally part of mainland Crete, 7am, featuring local and American options. but carved into a separate island during the 15th century Venetian rule, Spinalonga—known Morning: Around 8:30am, we transfer about officially as Kalydon—was used first for 20 minutes to the airport for our flight to fortification, and then as a leper colony in Thessaloniki to connect with the rest of the the first half of the 20th century. We’ll depart group and begin our Northern Greece, Albania & around 10am for the 1.5-hour drive to Plaqa, Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great where we’ll board a boat to the island. Those adventure. who choose to will get to explore both the fortress and the abandoned colony during our optional tour, followed by lunch together in a local seafood restaurant.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

40 OPTIONAL TOUR

Spinalonga: The Leper Colony (Day 7 $115 per person) Spinalonga, also known as Kalydon, was originally part of mainland Crete. In the 15th century, under Venetian rule, it was carved off into its own separate island. Originally used as fortification and protection over trade routes, the island eventually was used to separate those suffering from leprosy from the rest of society during the first half of the 20th century. On this optional tour, we’ll get to explore both the fortresses and the abandoned leper colony, followed by lunch together in a local seafood restaurant.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

41 PRE-TRIP Turkey’s Cultural Capitals: Ankara & Istanbul

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations at centrally-located » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip hotels for 2 nights in Ankara and 3 nights Experience Leader in Istanbul » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and » 11 meals—5 breakfasts, 3 lunches, luggage porters and 3 dinners » All transfers » 5 small group activities

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Add another stamp to your passport and discover two of Turkey’s grand cultural capitals. In Ankara, feel the pulse of modern Turkish life, and delve into its storied past as you encounter the relics of ancient civilizations at the Hittite Museum and Ankara Castle. Then discover Istanbul, the metropolis that straddles two continents, as you explore UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace, and connect with local people in the historic, lesser-traveled neighborhoods of Balat and Fener.

Day 1 Fly to Ankara, Turkey Day 3 Explore Ankara & Hittite Museum

Fly overnight from the U.S. to Ankara, Turkey. • Destination: Ankara • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 2 Arrive Ankara • Accommodations: Hotel in Ankara • Destination: Ankara Breakfast: At the hotel. • Accommodations: Hotel in Ankara Morning: Gather in the lobby for a Welcome Afternoon: Land in Ankara today, where an Briefing with your fellow travelers and Trip O.A.T. representative will greet you at the Experience Leader, in which you’ll learn about airport and assist you with your transfer to your the itinerary in greater depth and review hotel. Your Trip Experience Leader will meet any changes that may need to occur. Take you at the hotel and help you check in. this meeting as your opportunity to ask any questions you may have about the upcoming Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience days’ discoveries. Leader can recommend a restaurant. After our briefing, we’ll depart from the hotel Evening: On your own to relax or to explore as by private motorcoach to the center of Ankara, you’d like. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for where we’ll explore the city on an included recommendations. tour. Ankara is a very old city, founded in 2000 BC, and there are several Roman ruins scattered

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

42 throughout the metropolis. Archaeologists have After we finish our tour, we’ll walk back to also found artifacts that date to pre-Roman our private motorcoach and ride to a local periods. But you’ll find that much of Ankara’s restaurant for lunch. character is sophisticated and modern, from Lunch: Included at a local restaurant. the educational institutions to the art galleries, from the music to the architecture. There are Afternoon: The rest of the afternoon is free for three symphony orchestras and five theaters, independent exploration. Our coach is available offering classical performances of ballet, opera, if you’d prefer to return to the hotel; or, you can modern dance, and drama. On many levels, opt to remain in this historic section of the city Ankara has become the cultural and political to make further discoveries. center of Turkey. Dinner: Included at the hotel. We’ll learn more about the region’s ancient history during an included visit to the Museum Evening: On your own to relax or to explore as of Anatolian Civilizations, the finest Hittite you’d like. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for museum in the country. It details the many recommendations. cultures that have inhabited this area, starting as far back as the Paleolithic Age. The museum Day 4 Train ride to Istanbul • Explore houses a priceless collection of artifacts from Hippodrome & Hagia Sophia Neolithic, Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Persian, • Destination: Istanbul Galatian, and Roman times. The two buildings • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner themselves, a caravansary (an overnight site • Accommodations: Hotel in Istanbul for caravans) and a bedesten (covered bazaar), are Ottoman structures that date to the 15th Breakfast: At the hotel. century. Vendors abound in this area, adding Morning: We’ll check out of our hotel and to the local color with their fragrant spices, transfer to the train station this morning, dried fruits, and traditional Turkish handcrafts where we’ll set off on our approximately for sale. five-hour rail journey to Istanbul. Our Trip Then, venture to Ankara Castle in the oldest Experience Leader will distribute boxed lunches part of the city, high on a hill overlooking the for us to enjoy during our ride. city. Little remains of the original complex, Lunch: We’ll enjoy the boxed lunches prepared built by the Galatians, but much of the for us earlier in the day. architecture from its Roman, Byzantine, and Selcuk eras may still be admired. We’ll explore Afternoon: Our train will pull in to the the old town just inside the castle walls, an area station in the mid-afternoon, where we’ll where the traditional housing was concentrated disembark and transfer by private motorcoach during the 16th century for protection within to Istanbul’s Old Town for an included tour the fortifications. As we wander through the of this historic cultural capital. Due to its market, our Trip Experience Leader will help us strategic location astride both Asia and Europe, connect with the locals as they go about their Istanbul (formerly known as Constantinople or business. Byzantium in earlier ages) served as the capital of a series of empires since its founding back in the seventh century BC, and today boasts myriad treasures from its incredible history.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

43 We’ll begin exploring Istanbul’s ancient Evening: Return to the hotel where the rest relics—collectively recognized as a UNESCO of the evening is yours to relax or explore World Heritage Site—starting with the independently. Hippodrome of Constantinople, a lively central square that was the social heart of the Day 5 Explore Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar & city during the Byzantine era. In addition to Istiklal Street • Visit Topkapi Palace legendary chariot races, wrestling, boxing, and • Destination: Istanbul other athletic events were also held here, as were political rallies. Today, this section of the • Included Meals: Breakfast city is known as Sultan Ahmet Square, but some • Accommodations: Hotel in Istanbul remnants of the old construction still remain. Breakfast: At the hotel. Of special note is the Obelisk of Theodosius, which dates to around 1500 BC and which was Morning: Explore more of Istanbul’s cultural transported to Istanbul (then Constantinople) treasures on a full-day city tour with our Trip in AD 390. You’ll also see the fourth-century Experience Leader, starting with a guided Constantine Column; the Greek Serpentine visit to the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest Column, one of city’s oldest monuments, (and with its origins in the 15th century, the dating to 479 BC; and the German Fountain, a oldest) covered markets in the world. As you gift to the Ottoman Sultan in 1898. browse among the 4,000 shops stretched along miles of labyrinthine passageways, you’ll find Our tour continues as we walk to the Hagia that the street names recall the days when Sophia—a true wonder of the Byzantine each trade had its own quarter: goldsmiths’ world. Completed under Emperor Justinian street, carpet sellers’ street, and the street in AD 537, this massive building (known best of the skullcap makers. Perhaps you’ll find a for its resplendent dome) was a Christian bargain in brilliant hand-painted ceramics, church for nearly 1,000 years, until Mehmet copper and brassware, gleaming gold jewelry, the Conqueror claimed it for Islam. Kemal spices, leather goods, traditional costumes, and Atatürk, the revolutionary leader and founder antiques. of the Republic, proclaimed it as a museum in 1934—but it was reverted back to a working Next, we’ll board our private motorcoach and mosque in 2020. Its interior was designed as make for Taksim Square in the bustling city an earthly mirror of heaven, and as we explore, center, where we’ll disembark and enjoy a our Trip Experience Leader will point out the guided walk down Istiklal Street. The beating stunning Byzantine mosaics and distinctive heart of the city, Istiklal Street stretches features that contributed to the success of this from Taksim Square almost all the way to the estimable goal. landmark Gala Tower. This is where Istanbul locals from all walks of life come to work, eat, We’ll then transfer to our hotel, where we’ll play, and shop. And while the three million check in and have about an hour to get settled people who traverse Istiklal each day can make before dinner. the street rather crowded, there is nowhere better to get a slice-of-life look at modern Dinner: We’ll walk to a local restaurant where Istanbul society. we’ll enjoy an included dinner.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

44 Lunch: On your own. Istiklal Street is a great displaced much of the population. Today’s place to sample Turkish street food—your Trip Balat is a multicultural neighborhood where Experience Leader can help you select the best churches, synagogues, and mosques stand vendors to get a taste of local flavors. side-by-side along the cobblestone streets next to brilliantly-painted wooden houses. Afternoon: Our tour continues as we drive back to the Old Town to discover Topkapi Palace, Modern Balat is undergoing a facelift as some another highlight of the city’s glorious past. of its older and more neglected buildings are The complex of grand pavilions and courtyards making way for trendy restaurants, shops, was built by Mehmet II in the middle of and art galleries, giving the neighborhood an the 15th century (just after his conquest of eclectic ambiance where old and new coexist. Constantinople) and served as the residence of We’ll also visit nearby Fener, home to a Ottoman sultans—along with their wives and thriving Greek population. As these districts concubines—for the next 400 years. Today, are relatively undiscovered by tourists, we’ll it is one of the world’s richest museums, enjoy more opportunities for people-to-people boasting a staggering collection of arms, interactions as our Trip Experience Leader porcelain, and priceless treasures that include helps us connect with these historic the jewel-studded dagger made famous by the neighborhoods’ warm, welcoming residents. Hollywood heist film, Topkapi. Lunch: Included at a local restaurant. We’ll see the highlights on a guided tour with Afternoon: We’ll return to our hotel after our Trip Experience Leader, and then have lunch, where we’ll have a final free afternoon the rest of the day free to explore. Those who to make any last-minute discoveries, or to are intrigued by Topkapi’s treasures can stay prepare for tomorrow’s transfer to Greece. behind to examine them in depth at their own pace. Dinner: Included at a local restaurant.

Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax Leader can recommend a restaurant. or explore independently.

Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax or explore independently. Day 7 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece • Begin main adventure Day 6 Discover Balat & Fener • Included Meals: Breakfast

• Destination: Istanbul Breakfast: At the hotel. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Morning: Transfer to the airport for your • Accommodations: Hotel in Istanbul flight to Thessaloniki, where you’ll begin your Breakfast: At the hotel. Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great adventure. Morning: We’ll see a lesser-known side of Istanbul this morning when we join our Trip Experience Leader for a guided tour of Balat, one of the oldest neighborhoods of the city. Traditionally, Balat was Istanbul’s Jewish Quarter, until an earthquake in the 19th century

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

45 POST-TRIP Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Sad

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations for 2 nights in Nis at the » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Best Western Hotel My Place or similar and Experience Leader 4 nights in Belgrade at the Envoy Hotel » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and or similar luggage porters » 13 meals—6 breakfasts, 4 lunches, 3 dinners » All transfers » 9 small group activities

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Journey into the heart of the Balkans to discover the rich culture and hidden history of Serbia, from its laid-back university town of Nis—birthplace of the Roman emperor Constantine—to its vibrant capital of Belgrade, whose bright and bustling pedestrian boulevards have long ago shaken the dark days of Serbia’s past.

Day 1 Transfer to Nis, Serbia Afternoon: At about 3pm, we’ll check in to our hotel. Depending on where we stay, • Destination: Nis our hotel may feature on-site amenities • Included Meals: Lunch including a restaurant, bar, rooftop terrace, • Accommodations: Best Western Hotel My and fitness center. Typical rooms will feature Place or similar air-conditioning, satellite TV, safe, minibar, Morning: Around 8:30am, we depart our hotel and private bath with hair dryer. You’ll have to cross the border from Macedonia to Serbia. around 3.5 hours of free time to relax and Here, we will also change buses to continue explore the area before we meet our Trip our journey to Nis. Around 11am, we’ll stop by Experience Leader for a walk to discover the a local coffee shop to recharge for the rest of area at around 6:30pm. our journey. We’ll arrive around 1pm. Then, Dinner: On your own tonight. Perhaps you’ll we’ll take about a 15-minute walk to the Nis try Ćevapi, a typical dish made with grilled Archaeological Gallery, where we’ll admire meat wrapped in a flatbread, or bourek—a flaky exhibits of antiquities from the surrounding pastry either filled with ground beef, spinach region. We’ll then take a quick walk to a local and cheese, or potatoes and onions. restaurant for lunch. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Lunch: Around 1:45pm at a local restaurant rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip featuring regional cuisine. Experience Leader for recommendations.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

46 Freedom To Explore: During your two days glass and metal chapel also accompanies the in Nis, you have the freedom to explore this structure designed by Nis-based architect ancient city on your own during your free time. Aleksandar Buđevac, giving visitors a place to Below are a few recommended options for reflect at this solemn location. independent explorations: • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi • Try a local treat at Pelivan Pastry Shop: With ride, about $4.50 one way. its 150 years of history, this type of pastry • Hours: Open daily. shop started after a man used the winnings • Cost: Free. from a wrestling competition to open a store- font in Belgrade in 1851. Over the years, his Day 2 Explore Nis • Visit Nis Fortress & Red family opened similar shops throughout the Cross Concentration Camp country, and today they sell a wide selection • Destination: Nis of treats and cakes made using traditional • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner methods. Sample flaky while you • Accommodations: Best Western Hotel My sip on , a popular creamy, fermented Place or similar beverage, and people watch from the bakery’s Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian prime location in the city center. and American dishes beginning at 7am. • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. • Hours: 10am-8pm, Monday-Saturday. Morning: We’ll set off on a walking tour of • Cost: Free. Serbia’s third largest city around 8:30am with your Trip Experience Leader. Settled in • See the Parish of the Exaltation of the Holy pre-Roman times, the university town of Nis is Cross: Established as a small chapel in 1884 also the birthplace of Constantine, the Roman after Serbia’s liberation from the Ottoman emperor responsible for converting the entire Empire, the church has been expanded Roman Empire to Christianity. over the years and maintains a prominent place in Nis’s Catholic history. The church’s To begin, we’ll visit Nis Tower. The symbol establishment made Nis the first Serbian of the city, Nis Fortress is a Turkish-era city to house a Catholic parish and gave the fortification complex built in the early 18th city’s Catholic population, mostly made up of century over Roman and medieval foundations construction or railroad workers, a place to on the bank of the Nisava River. Then, we learn practice their faith. Today, visitors can admire Serbian history at a monument dedicated to the its ornate interior and classic architecture. 1809 Battle of Cegar and Cele Kula—or, “Tower • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute walk. of Skulls.” Following the Serbian defeat at the • Hours: Open daily. Battle of Cegar, victorious Turks embedded • Cost: Free. almost 1,000 skulls of dead in the fortress walls to deter future acts of rebellion (some 58 • Visit the Bubanj Memorial Site: Built on a are still there), and the Tower of Skulls remains site of mass executions during World War II, a proud symbol of Serbian resistance. We the hilltop memorial of three clenched fists continue on foot around 10:15am to stop by one remembers those who died here, symbolizing of the oldest churches in Serbia and the village their strength and resistance. Not too far from of Gornji Matejevac. the memorial, there is also a relief depicting the trauma and vistory of World War II. A

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47 Lunch: On your own around noon. You may find of Karadjordje, the man who led the Serbian a restaurant that serves Karadjordje’s schnitzel, uprising against Turkish rule in 1804. Our or pork stuffed with a local cheese and discoveries include the final resting place of fried, or mućkalica, a containing barbecued Karadjordje and 22 members of the Serbian meat and vegetables. royal family at the Royal Mausoleum Complex, situated inside St. George’s Church, a Afternoon: We’ll resume our city tour around magnificent five-domed church with marble 1:30pm and drive to the nearby memorial columns and vibrant mosaics rendered from museum of Crveni Krst (Red Cross), home millions of pieces of colored glass. Then, we’ll to one of Europe’s best-preserved Nazi stop around 1pm in Arandjelovac, a spa town concentration camps. Some 30,000 Serbs, renowned for its healing waters. Roma, Jews, and Partisans were held (and about 10,000 killed) at this notorious camp during the Lunch: Around 1:30pm at a restaurant German occupation of Serbia from 1941 to 1945. dedicated to the memory of King Alexander I in We’ll round out today’s explorations of Nis with Arandjelovac. a visit to a tea house around 2:30pm, where Afternoon: Upon arrival in Belgrade around a local expert will help us discover the rich 4:30pm, we’ll check in to our hotel and enjoy variety of medicinal herbs used in the region. a brief orientation walk of our surroundings We return to the hotel around 3:30pm for some around 5pm. Depending on where we stay, our free time. We’ll meet again around 6:30 to head hotel may feature on-site amenities including to dinner by bus. a fitness center, spa, and restaurant. Typical Dinner: At about 7pm, we’ll enjoy a Welcome rooms will include complimentary wireless Dinner at a local restaurant serving traditional Internet access, a TV, a mini bar, a safe, coffee- Serbian cuisine. and tea-making facilities, and a private bath with a hair dryer. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Dinner: At about 7pm at a local restaurant Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. serving traditional hot and cold dishes. Perhaps you’ll enjoy the views from the hotel’s Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rooftop terrace. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Day 3 Transfer to Belgrade • Explore Topola and Oplenac Freedom To Explore: During your four days in Belgrade, you have the freedom to explore • Destination: Belgrade this capital city on your own during your free • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner time. Below are a few recommended options for • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar independent explorations: Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian • Explore the National Museum: Delve into and American dishes beginning at 7am. the history of Serbia and the Balkan region Morning: We’ll depart Nis at about 8:30am by perusing the museum’s collections of for our northern journey to Belgrade. Along ancient artifacts, European art, and more. the way, we’ll discover the origins of the Built in 1903 and reconstructed a number Serbian kingdom in Topola and Oplenac of times throughout the years, the museum around 11:30am. Topola was the birthplace features over 5000 square feet of exhibition

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48 space spanning three floors. Perhaps the (a Serbian biscuit). The shop offers 26 flavors most celebrated works housed here are by per day, with much of the selection frequent- Croatian Ivan Mestrovic, a famous sculptor ly rotating. of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia; archaeolog- • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. ical artifacts from Roman-era Serbia; and • Hours: 10am-11pm, daily. extensive galleries featuring both 18th- and • Cost: Free. 19th-century Serbian art and 20th-century Yugoslavian art. In total, the museum collec- Day 4 Explore Belgrade • Optional From tion comprises approximately 400,000 pieces. Royalty to Today’s Belgrade tour • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. • Destination: Belgrade Hours: 10am-6pm, Tuesday, Wednesday, • • Included Meals: Breakfast Friday & Sunday; 12pm-8pm, Thursday & • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar Saturday; closed on Mondays. • Cost: About $5.50. Free on Sundays. Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian and American dishes beginning at 7am. • Browse the shelves at the Sava Perfume Shop: Experience a bygone era when you step Morning: We’ll set off on foot around 9am for into this perfume shop, located on one of the an enlightening city tour of Serbia’s capital and oldest streets in Belgrade. Peruse the rows largest city. Belgrade (meaning “White City”) of unbranded scents handmade by Belgrade enjoys a prime location at the confluence of perfumer, Nenad Jovanov, whose parents the Sava and Danube rivers—which helps to founded the shop. Opened in the 1950s and explain the countless times the city has been one of the last traditional perfumeries in rebuilt during its vast 2,300-year history. the city, the scents are mixed in a private In fact, Kalemegdan Citadel, Belgrade’s room behind a heavy curtain, labeled by a impressive fortress at the bend of the two typewriter, and dispersed from a 1930s hand rivers, has been destroyed more than 40 pump. Expect to spend between $5-$10 USD times over the centuries. We begin with a walk for a small bottle. through Trg Republike, the city’s main square • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. and popular gathering place for locals and • Hours: 10am-1pm & 4pm-7pm, Monday- visitors alike, passing by the National Museum Friday; 10am-2pm, Saturday; closed on and Kalemegdan Park, where we’ll stop to visit Sunday. the renowned Belgrade Fortress. Then, our • Cost: Free. tour continues by bus with a stop at the Church of St. Sava, the massive structure dominating • Treat yourself at Crna Ovca (Black Sheep) Ice Belgrade’s cityscape that is one of the world’s Cream: Get a taste of Belgrade at this local ice largest Orthodox churches. cream shop, where the owners use non-con- ventional flavors such as , kajmak Lunch: On your own beginning around cheese, gorgonzola, and peanut butter. Other 12:30pm. You may ask your Trip Experience popular flavors include creme brulee and Leader for recommendations. caramelized , , and Plazma Afternoon: The rest of the day is yours to seek out your own discoveries in Belgrade. Or, you may join an optional excursion, departing around 3pm. Our afternoon optional tour begins

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49 with a visit to Belgrade’s Tito Memorial. At this unique locale hosts the EXIT Festival, a this structure erected to honor the memory of world-renowned music festival that takes place Josip Bros Tito, we’ll learn much more about each July. A walking tour featuring many of the the man who held Yugoslavia together during city’s historic landmarks will also bring us past the turmoil following World War II and the the Novi Sad Synagogue, the fifth synagogue to subsequent Cold War. Then, we’ll visit the be erected here since the 18th century. residence and magnificent grounds and gardens Then, around 12:45pm, we’ll drive 30 minutes of the Royal Palace, current home of Crown to a farmhouse in the countryside outside Prince Alexander and his family. Novi Sad. Dinner: On your own, for those who don’t take Lunch: Around 1:30pm at the traditional the optional tour. Ask your Trip Experience farmhouse, featuring local dishes. Leader where you can find the best cabbage, a popular local dish made of cooked Afternoon: We’ll depart by bus for Belgrade cabbage and smoked pork. For those who do around 2:30pm, arriving at about 3:30pm, and take the tour, it concludes with a memorable the rest of the day will be free for your own dinner at one of the many floating restaurants discoveries. lining the banks of the Danube. Dinner: On your own. Perhaps you’ll try djuvec, Evening: You have the freedom to spend the a stew containing rice, vegetables, and meat. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the You may seek out some of the local nightlife, or rest of your evening as you wish—ask your relax back at the hotel. Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Perhaps you’ll take advantage of the hotel’s Day 5 Excursion to Sremski Karlovci amenities, or simply relax in your room. and Novi Sad Day 6 Belgrade • Excursion to Kovacica • Destination: Belgrade • Destination: Belgrade • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian and American dishes beginning at 7am. Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian and American dishes beginning at 7am. Morning: Today, we’ll set out at about 9am to discover the northern Serbian province of Morning: Today, around 9am, we’ll journey Vojvodina, beginning in Sremski Karlovci, a 1 hour by bus outside the city to Kovacica, a charming town set on the banks of the Danube. picturesque village that is world-renowned Arriving around 9:30am, we’ll set off on a for its school of Naïve art. Settled by ethnic walking tour to view its Baroque architecture. Slovaks early in the 19th century, Kovacica Then around 11am, we’ll journey to nearby Novi represents a unique oasis of living traditions, Sad, capital of the Vojvodina province. We’ll original arts and crafts, and a way of life drive by the Petrovaradin Citadel, the towering seemingly untouched by modernity. The Naïve 17th-century fortress nicknamed “Gibraltar art tradition began in earnest here by two on the Danube.” In more modern times, local artists in 1939, and we’ll learn about this

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50 enduring tradition at the Gallery of Naïve Art, Afternoon: We’ll depart for the 1.5-hour drive where we’ll visit with some artists at their back to Belgrade around 3pm, at which time ateliers. you’re free to make your own discoveries for the balance of the day. Around 12:15pm, we’ll also visit the home workshop of a local painter and the atelier Dinner: At about 7pm, we’ll gather together of violin maker Jan Nemček, who exports his for a Farewell Dinner in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s elegant instruments throughout the world. popular Bohemian quarter. Because of our small group size, we’ll get Evening: You have the freedom to spend the to interact closely with the people we meet, rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip coming to understand their passions as we ask Experience Leader for recommendations. questions and share stories with each other.

At approximately 1pm, we’ll depart for the Day 7 Depart for the U.S. 30-minute drive to our lunch spot for the day. • Included Meals: Breakfast Lunch: At a local farm restaurant in the village Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian of Debeljaca around 1:30pm. and American dishes beginning at 7am.

Morning: Depending on the time of your flight, we’ll transfer to the airport for our return flights home.

OPTIONAL TOUR

From Royalty to Today’s Belgrade (Day 4 $105 per person) Our afternoon optional tour begins with a visit to Belgrade’s Tito Memorial. At this structure erected to honor the memory of Josip Bros Tito, we’ll learn much more about the man who held Yugoslavia together during the turmoil following World War II and the subsequent Cold War. Then, we’ll visit the residence and magnificent grounds and gardens of the Royal Palace, current home of Crown Prince Alexander and his family. Our optional tour concludes with a memorable dinner at one of the many floating restaurants lining the banks of the Danube.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

51 POST-TRIP Kosovo’s Cultural Renaissance: Prizren & Pristina

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations at centrally-located » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip hotels for 3 nights in Prizren and 2 nights Experience Leader in Pristina » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and » 12 meals—5 breakfasts, 4 lunches, luggage porters and 3 dinners » All transfers » 8 small group activities

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Get to know Europe’s youngest nation, Kosovo, which has emerged from the Balkan conflicts of the late 20th century to rebuild itself as an emerging travel destination. Spend three nights in Prizren, heralded by many as one of the most scenic cities of the Balkans, where an eclectic mix of European and Ottoman architecture reflects the region’s complex cultural tapestry. Plus explore the bustling capital, Pristina, and take advantage of people-to-people interactions throughout your journey to see firsthand how the shadows of war and ethnic strife still linger over daily life, and how Kosovo’s Serbian and Albanian population are working together to build a brighter tomorrow.

Day 1 Overland to Prizren, Kosovo • Visit different epochs of Christian history, and its Gracanica Monastery interior features an array of intricately-crafted medieval paintings and murals. • Destination: Prizren • Included Meals: Lunch After our tour, we’ll return to our motorcoach • Accommodations: Hotel in Prizren and continue our journey toward Prizren.

Morning: We’ll meet our Trip Experience Lunch: We’ll stop at a local restaurant, staffed Leader this morning, then board our private by members of Kosovo’s Serbian population, motorcoach and make our way across the for an included lunch. While we’re here, we’ll border into Kosovo. We’ll then head toward have the opportunity to speak to the staff Prizren, stopping along the way for a guided to learn what it’s like for Kosovo’s minority tour of Gracanica Monastery, a UNESCO World Serbian population, and how relations between Heritage Site. This Orthodox monastery was them and Kosovo’s Albanian majority have completed in 1321 by order of the Serbian king changed in the decades since the brutal war Stefan Milutin, and was built upon the ruins of fought between the two ethnic groups in 1999. a 13th-century Christian church, which itself stood upon the site of an ancient 6th-century Afternoon: We’ll continue our transfer basilica. The monastery now rests upon three to Prizren, arriving at our hotel in the mid-afternoon. After checking in and taking

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52 some time to unpack and unwind, our Trip within the Balkans and abroad. You’ll have the Experience Leader will lead us on an orientation opportunity to see for yourself when we visit a walk to acquaint us with the neighborhood local winery for a tour and a tasting. surrounding our hotel. Lunch: Enjoy an included lunch at the Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience winery, accompanied by a sampling of Leader can recommend a restaurant. locally-made wines.

Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax Afternoon: We’ll return to our hotel in Prizren, or explore independently. where the rest of the day is yours to spend as you please.

Day 2 Explore Prizren • Visit local winery Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience • Destination: Prizren Leader can recommend a restaurant. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax • Accommodations: Hotel in Prizren or explore independently. Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: We’ll begin the day’s discoveries with Day 3 Visit local farm an included tour of Prizren, one of the oldest • Destination: Prizren human settlements in all of Kosovo. Prizren • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and • Accommodations: Hotel in Prizren the city that exists today is like an open-air Breakfast: At the hotel. museum, an eclectic mix of architecture left behind by the various people who have called Morning: We board our private motorcoach it home over the years. We’ll explore this this morning and drive outside of the city to historic cultural capital on a walking tour, visit a local village, where we’ll be welcomed taking in the well-preserved architecture, such onto a farm by a local family to get a sense of as the 14th-century Our Lady of Ljevis Serbian what daily life is like in the Kosovo countryside. Orthodox church—selected for the UNESCO list We’ll meet our hosts upon arrival, and after we of protected medieval monuments in 2006. introduce ourselves, we’ll take a walk around the estate, enjoying a firsthand look at farm After our tour, we’ll board our motorcoach and life in Kosovo. We’ll also have the opportunity drive out into the countryside to visit a winery to roll up our sleeves and help out with any in the lush Rahovec wine region. Also known seasonal chores, such as tending to crops or as to the area’s Serbian population, livestock, or helping out in the kitchen. Rahovec has been the region’s leading wine producer for around 2,000 years. The wars Lunch: We’ll share a meal with our hosts, that followed the collapse of Yugoslavia in the enjoying a taste of farm-fresh cuisine, and 1990s forced Rahovec’s vintners to pause their more opportunity for intimate conversation trade for a time, but in recent years, Kosovo’s about life in rural Kosovo. wines have been making a resurgence, taking advantage of the region’s unique soil and ample Afternoon: We’ll bid our hosts farewell and sunshine to produce vintages that are popular return to Prizren, where you’ll have the rest of the afternoon free to explore independently. Perhaps you’ll head to hilltop Prizren Fortress,

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53 where you can take in panoramic views of the the monastery is open and welcome to visitors, city and the surrounding valley, or take a stroll and the small brotherhood of monks who through the Old Town for a closer look at the practice their faith here are eager to share the well-preserved medieval Ottoman architecture. monastery’s legacy with all travelers.

Dinner: Included at a local restaurant. After touring the monastery, we’ll drive by private motorcoach to the Patriarchate Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax of Peja—recognized alongside Decani or explore independently. Monastery as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This Serbian Orthodox monastery complex Day 4 Overland to Pristina • Discover consists of four churches, built in the 13th Decani Monastery & Patriarchate of Peja • century, immaculately decorated with a host Explore Pristina of countless medieval frescoes. Today, the • Destination: Pristina monastery is home to a sisterhood of Serbian Orthodox monks, who maintain the historic • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner complex and preserve its centuries-old • Accommodations: Hotel in Pristina artworks. Breakfast: At the hotel. We’ll spend some time discovering the Morning: We check out of our hotel this monastery, then board our private motorcoach morning and begin our private motorcoach to continue our journey to Pristina. transfer to Pristina, stopping along the way to discover two important religious sites, Lunch: Included at a local restaurant en route both of which are part of a UNESCO World to Pristina. Heritage Site. Afternoon: We arrive at our hotel in Pristina First, we’ll stop at Decani Monastery, a Serbian in the mid-afternoon. After checking in and Orthodox monastery built in the 14th century taking some time to relax and settle in, we’ll by the Serbian king Saint Stephen of Decani. head out for a walking tour of the city. Pristina Its well-preserved but humble façade belies its is Europe’s youngest capital, the beating heart inner beauty, which we’ll see for ourselves as of the Republic of Kosovo, which declared we step inside to view thousands of Byzantine its independence from Serbia in 2008. We’ll frescoes depicting scenes from the New take in some of the highlights of the city as Testament. we stroll along the streets, including Mother Teresa Boulevard, named in honor of the saint The monastery is protected by UNESCO as who spent her childhood in Kosovo, and the a recognized piece of this region’s cultural statue, erected in the memory and religious heritage. It is also protected by of the 15th-century Albanian general who a detachment of NATO peacekeepers, as the fought against the which once monastery’s monks have been the target of occupied these lands long ago. condemnation from nationalist extremists from both Serbians who view the brotherhood as We’ll see evidence of this period of Kosovo’s traitors for sheltering Albanian refugees during history as we pass by several Ottoman-era the violence of the 1990s, and by Albanians who mosques, including the remarkable Fatih view the monastery as an unwanted symbol of Mosque, a 15th-century building crowned by Serbian presence in Kosovo. Today, however, a massive domed cupola. Although the city

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54 boasts a long and complex history, Pristina is to some, deepening the hostilities between a thoroughly modern capital with its eyes set Kosovo’s Serbian and Albanian population firmly on the future, determined to move past (Milosevic would go on to die in prison while the ethnic strife that terrorized the region in under trial for alleged war crimes committed decades past. during the Balkan Wars of the 1990s). In 2010, jurisdiction over the monument fell to the Dinner: Included at a local restaurant. newly-independent Kosovo police force, much Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax to the consternation of some Serbs who view it or explore independently. as a symbol of their own national pride.

We’ll spend about a half hour at the monument Day 5 Visit Battle of Kosovo Monument & to learn more about its role in modern Kosovo Adem Jashari Memorial Complex • Meet society, and then drive by private motorcoach former Kosovo Liberation Army fighter to the Adem Jashari Memorial Complex located • Destination: Pristina in Prekaz, about an hour outside of Pristina. Here, we’ll gain insights into a more recent • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner period of violence in Kosovo’s history. • Accommodations: Hotel in Pristina

Breakfast: At the hotel. In March 1998, in the early months of the Kosovo War, Serbian special forces Morning: We’ll delve into Kosovo’s tumultuous raided the village of Prekaz, killing Adem history this morning during included visits Jashari—the leader of the Kosovo Liberation to two historic monuments. First, we’ll stop Army (KLA)—along with 60 members of his by Gazimestan, a monument dedicated to family, including several young children. The the Serbian soldiers and leaders who died in massacre remains a sensitive subject today, and battle with Ottoman forces during the Battle of a point of conflict between Kosovo’s Albanian Kosovo in 1389. The monument is a stone tower and Serbian ethnic groups. Some revere Jashari on the outskirts of Pristina, just three miles as a freedom fighter who sacrificed his life away from the field where the battle took place. for the independence of Kosovo’s Albanian majority; others regard him and his family The memorial is a symbol of Serbian national as terrorists, responsible for acts of violence pride, and has a long and violent history of its against police outposts and other state targets. own—the Serbian prince Stefan Lazarević was the first to build a monument here in the 14th Today, Prekaz is the site of a memorial complex century, which was subsequently destroyed by dedicated to Jashari and his family, and during Ottoman rulers during their occupation of this our included tour, we’ll learn more about the region. Another monument was erected in 1924, events of that fateful day, and their broader but destroyed by Albanian soldiers fighting for impact on the region and its people. We’ll the Axis during World War II. also get a firsthand perspective of what life in Kosovo was like during this period of ethnic The tower that stands today was built in 1953, strife when we meet a former member of the and has courted its own share of controversy; KLA, who will offer their perspective on the Serbian president Slobodan Milosevic delivered conflict between Kosovo’s Albanian and Serbian an infamous speech here in 1989 on the population. 600th anniversary of the battle, stoking the fires of Serbian nationalism and, according

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55 We’ll spend about an hour and a half at the memorial complex, and then board our motorcoach and return to Pristina.

Lunch: On your own in Pristina. Your Trip Experience Leader can recommend a café or restaurant.

Afternoon: Enjoy a free afternoon to explore Pristina independently.

Dinner: We’ll walk to a local restaurant for an included dinner.

Evening: The rest of the evening is free to relax or explore independently.

Day 6 Return to U.S. • Included Meals: Breakfast

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: Transfer to the airport for your flight home.

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56 Northern Greece, Albania & OUR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURE COVID-19 VACCINATION POLICY To ensure the safety of all of our travelers, we are requiring that all travelers Macedonia: Ancient Lands of joining us on one of our Small Group Adventures must be fully vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure of their adventure— Alexander the Great and provide proof of their vaccination on-site. For more details, please visit www.oattravel.com/covid-update. 2022 Dates & Prices

MAY JUNE- DEPART FROM MARCH APRIL MAY 2, 12 16-30 JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER

New York $3895 $4395 $4595 $4695 $4995 $4795 $4495 $4295 $4195

Boston, Houston, Miami $4095 $4595 $4795 $4895 $5195 $4995 $4695 $4495 $4395

Atlanta, Chicago, Los Angeles, $4195 $4695 $4895 $4995 $5295 $5095 $4795 $4595 $4495 San Francisco, Washington, DC

Dallas, Denver, Detroit, $4395 $4895 $5095 $5195 $5495 $5295 $4995 $4795 $4695 Minneapolis, , San Diego

Philadelphia, Portland, Seattle $4495 $4995 $5195 $5295 $5595 $5395 $5095 $4895 $4795

Orlando, Tampa $4595 $5095 $5295 $5395 $5695 $5495 $5195 $4995 $4895

Additional departure cities are available. Upgrade to Business Class may be available for the international portion of your flight. Call for details.

MAY 16-30; JUNE- MARCH APRIL MAY 2, 12 SEPTEMBER AUGUST OCTOBER NOVEMBER Without international airfare $2795 $3295 $3495 $3395 $3695 $3195 $3095

GRE2022

RISK-FREE BOOKING POLICY: RESERVE WITH CONFIDENCE—NOW THROUGH 12/31/21 We will waive any change fees if you transfer to another departure date for any reason—up until 24 hours prior to departure. See details at www.oattravel.com/riskfree-booking.

Prices are per person. Airfare prices include government taxes, fees, and airline fuel surcharges. All prices and availability are effective as of the date of this publication, and are subject to change without notice. Standard Terms & Conditions apply, please visit our website: www.oattravel.com/tc. Every effort has been made to produce this information accurately. We reserve the right to correct errors.

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SAVE UP TO 10% WITH FREE SINGLE SUPPLEMENTS SHARE YOUR LOVE OF TRAVEL OUR GOOD BUY PLAN We offer FREE Single Supplements on all New travelers you refer will instantly save The earlier you reserve your departure of our adventures and pre- and post-trip $100, and you’ll earn increasing rewards— and pay in full, the more you’ll save—up extensions. up to a FREE trip! to 10%—plus, you’ll lock in your price. Each departure has limited solo space For details, visit www.oattravel.com/va For details, visit www.oattravel.com/gbd available—call today to reserve.

Publication Date 6/19/21

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57 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: For the main trip only, you will need 4 blank passport pages.

• Pre-trip extension to Crete: No additional pages needed.

• Pre-trip extension to Turkey: You will need an additional blank passport page.

• Post-trip extension to Serbia: You will need an additional blank passport page.

• Post-trip extension to Kosovo: You will need an additional blank passport page.

Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure. In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This information is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.

• Greece, Albania & North Macedonia: No visas required. U.S. citizens are not required to obtain visas for stays up to 90 days.

• Turkey (pre-trip extension): Visa required. We suggest you obtain an e-visa in advance through the Turkish government’s website as while visas can be obtained upon arrival, the lines are reported to be long and will delay your arrival.

• Serbia (post-trip extension): No visa required. U.S. citizens are not required to obtain visas for stays up to 90 days.

58 • Kosovo (post-trip extension): No visa required. U.S. citizens are not required to obtain visas for stays up to 90 days.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.

Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.

Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

59 RIGORS, VACCINES & GENERAL HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Experience Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

PACING • 7 locations in 17 days

• Early morning departures with 1 pre-dawn flight

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids

• You must be able to walk approximately 3 miles unassisted and be comfortable participating in 6-8 hours of physical activities each day

• Our activities on Day 8 include an elective hike on uneven surfaces for a minimum of 2 hours

• We reserve the right for Trip Experience Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

CLIMATE • Temperatures are mild and seasonable throughout most of the year, with the hottest temperatures in July and August averaging 80°F; temperatures begin dropping in November with the possibility of rain or even snow

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Walk on rugged paths and cobblestoned streets, and travel by bus over rural roads that may be bumpy and narrow

• Hikes along steep trails in Meteora and up and down hills in mountain villages in the Zagoria region; good hiking shoes are recommended for these activities

• Agility and balance are required for boarding or disembarking rafts on optional Vikos Gorge Rafting tour

• Travel by air-conditioned minibus, taxi, and small boat

ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • Hotel rooms are smaller than those in the U.S. and offer basic amenities

• All accommodations feature private baths with showers

60 MAXIMUM GROUP SIZE & LEADERSHIP • 16 travelers and 1 Trip Experience Leader

Albania & North Macedonia

• Roads in Albania and North Macedonia are underdeveloped. Be prepared for drives over bumpy terrain and poorly maintained roads with extremely basic roadside facilities.

Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

Vaccines Required

COVID-19 Overseas Adventure Travel requires that all travelers are fully vaccinated against COVID-19 and are able provide proof of their vaccination upon arrival at their destination. A full vaccination is defined as having been inoculated at least 14 days prior to departure by an approved vaccine. This requirement is not contingent on the countries the tour visits, but a strict company policy due to the nature of the pandemic.

Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness

• A pain medication. You might need this in the unlikely event of an injury in a location where medical attention would be delayed.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

61 We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

Staying Healthy on Your Trip Jet Lag Tips

• Start your trip well-rested.

• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies

If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water in Greece, North Macedonia, Albania, Turkey, Serbia, and Kosovo is safe to drink, but is processed differently than in the U.S. so it can still upset your stomach or feel “heavy”. Therefore, we suggest drinking bottle water instead.

• Bottled water is readily available and inexpensive. (Bottled water is not included in the price of your tour.)

• Inspect each bottle before you buy it to make sure the cap is sealed properly.

• When in doubt about the water, salads, or ice, just ask the restaurant or your Trip Experience Leader.

• It is OK to brush your teeth with tap water.

62 Food • We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals. Your Trip Experience Leader can suggest restaurants for the meal you take on your own.

• Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked .

63 MONEY MATTERS: LOCAL CURRENCY & TIPPING GUIDELINES

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high.

• You will not be able to pay with U.S. dollars on this trip; you will need local currency instead.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Euro Countries The euro is the official currency in many member countries of the European Union. Unless otherwise listed, the countries you will be visiting will use the euro. Euro banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euros

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents; 1 and 2 euros

Albania The Lek is the official currency of Albania. It is subdivided into 100 qindarka, although qindarka are no longer issued. The banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 200, 500, 1000, 2000, and 5000 lek

• Coins: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 lek

U.S. dollars are not accepted for payment in Albania; local currency is required. (Note: Leks are a restricted currency and cannot be exchanged outside of Albania.)

North Macedonia The Denar is the monetary unit of North Macedonia. It is subdivided into 100 deni. Denar banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 50, 100, 500, 1000, and 5000 denari

• Coins: 50 deni; 1, 2, 5, 10, and 50 denari

U.S. dollars are not widely accepted for payment in these countries; denari are preferred.

64 Turkey The currency in Turkey is the Turkish lira (TL). The Turkish lira is divided into 100 kurus (pronounced “koo-ROOSH”). U.S. dollars can sometimes be used in Turkey. Banknotes and coins come in denominations of:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 TL

• Coins: 5, 10, 25, and 50 kurus and 1 TL

Many shops and restaurants in Turkey will accept U.S. dollars (or euros). This is more common in places/businesses that cater to tourists. Accepting U.S. dollars is legal, but since it is not the official currency of Turkey, the businesses that accept dollars can do so on their own terms. This means that they may set their own exchange rate and might not be able to make change for large U.S. bills.

Serbia In Serbia, the official currency is the Dinar (RSD), made up of 100 paras. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and 5000 dinars (also called “dinara”)

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 dinara

How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets. Or you can wait and change money on the trip instead—but it might be helpful to arrive with some local currency in case you run into a bank holiday or an “out of order” ATM.

On your trip, the easiest way to obtain local currency is to withdraw funds from a local ATM. The ATM will give you local money and your bank at home will convert that into U.S. dollars.

You may be able to exchange cash at some hotels, large post offices, and money exchange offices, however they do not typically offer good exchange rates and can be difficult to find. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). New bills (post 2004) are best.

Please note that many banks in Europe will only exchange money for their own customers. Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

65 Many banks charge a fee of $1-$10 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

Greece: ATMs are very common in Greece and are readily available in large cities and small towns.

Albania: ATMs can be easily found in large cities and small towns but can be scarce in rural villages.

North Macedonia: ATMs are widely available in large cities and small towns but can be difficult to find in rural villages.

Turkey: ATMs are widely available in larger cities and towns. They may become less frequent in rural areas.

Serbia: ATMs can be readily found in large cities and small towns but can be scarce in rural villages.

Kosovo: ATMs are widely available in large cities, but have been know to charge a €5 fee even on international cards.

Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

Greece: Credit cards are widely accepted in Greece. Some small shops and restaurants may still require cash so it always good to ask before making a purchase.

Albania: Credit cards are becoming more common in Albania, but there are still some smaller businesses and local restaurants that may require cash. Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

North Macedonia: Credit cards are widely accepted in North Macedonia. However, some types of businesses—street vendors, local restaurants, or “Mom and Pop” stores- are still largely “cash only.” Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

Turkey: Credit cards are widely accepted in Turkey.

66 Serbia: Credit cards are readily accepted in Serbia. However, some smaller businesses, such as street vendors, local restaurants, or “Mom and Pop” stores, may be “cash only.” Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

Kosovo: Credit cards are widely accepted in Kosovo. However, some types of businesses—street vendors, local restaurants, or “Mom and Pop” stores- are still largely “cash only.” Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

Chip Cards Many countries have adopted a new type of credit card that has an embedded computer chip. These cards are inserted into the reader instead of swiped. The card owner then authorizes the purchase using a PIN instead of signing.

This new technology is only now gaining traction in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in other countries that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) If you are not able to sign for a purchase, such as at an automated ticket booth, you can use another form of payment, such as a debit card that has a PIN.

Notify Card Providers of Upcoming Travel Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines.

• O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your Trip Experience Leader at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $8-$12 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person for each day their Trip Experience Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Trip Experience Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

• Housekeeping staff at hotels: $1-2 per room, per night

67 • Waiters: When dining as a group, your tip is included—there is no need for you to leave an additional tip. When dining on your own, you can simply round up the bill. Or if you want to leave a really nice tip for excellent service, 10% of the check is suggested.

• Taxi drivers: While tipping is not customary, many locals will round up the fare and let the driver keep the change.

Please Note: Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and optional extensions for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.

68 AIR, OPTIONAL TOURS & STAYING IN TOUCH

Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air Quick Definitions

• Land Only: You will be booking your own international flights. Airport transfers are not included.

• Air-Inclusive: You booked international air with us. Airport transfers are included as long as you didn’t customize your trip’s dates (see next bullet).

• Personalized Air: You booked international air with us, and have customized it in some way. If you have customized your trip’s dates to arrive early, stay longer, or stop on your own in a connecting city, airport transfers will NOT be included. You must also arrange your own accommodations for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations”.

Airport Transfers Can Be Purchased For eligible flights, airport transfers may be purchased separately as an optional add-on, subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

If you don’t meet the requirements above, you’ll need to make your own transfer arrangements. We suggest the to Rio website as a handy resource: www.rome2rio.com.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

69 • Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Experience Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Experience Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

Communicating with Home from Abroad

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).

One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

Internet Most hotels in the region will have Internet services available, some for free, some for an hourly charge. WiFi service is fairly common, but may be limited to a public area, like the lobby. If you’d like to use WiFi when and where it is available, you’ll need to bring your own device. Or you could chose to rely on hotel computers instead—many hotels will also offer a limited number of computers in the lobby or business center for guests to use.

70 How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Greece: +30 Turkey: +90

Albania: +355 Serbia: +381

North Macedonia: +389 Kosovo: +383

71 PACKING: WHAT TO BRING & LUGGAGE LIMITS

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person.

Weight restrictions Varies by airline. The current standard is 50 lbs for checked bags and 15 lbs for carry-ons.

Size Restrictions Varies by airline. Measured in linear inches (length+width+depth). Generally, 62 linear inches is the checked bag limit; carry-on limit is 45 linear inches.

Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Please do not bring a hard-sided (clamshell) suitcase.

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Same as the main trip.

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy. Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent. However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question.

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.

72 Your Luggage • Checked Luggage: One duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.

• Carry-on Bag: You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

• Locks: For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions: Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle- resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.

• Outerwear: Rainfall can occur any time of year, so don’t forget a waterproof jacket, poncho, or folding umbrella. In early spring and winter, temperatures can be chilly—snowfall can begin as early as November. Late fall through early spring bring warm gear such as a fleece, sweaters, and a coat.

• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. We recommend you wear sturdy hiking boots or other supportive sports shoes that offer good traction. Some of our activities include hiking or walking on steep terrain covered by rocks, and loose gravel—so shoes with good traction are a must. Tennis shoes are not recommended for hiking.

Style Hints & Dress Codes • Dress on our trip is functional and casual. You might want to bring one slightly dressier outfit for dining on your own at nicer restaurants or for the Farewell Dinner, but that is completely up to you.

• Some religious sites, like Orthodox churches and Muslim mosques, strongly prefer that visitors of both genders dress modestly. In this context, “modestly dressed” usually means covered from shoulders to below the knees—no shorts, no sleeveless shirts, no low or revealing necklines, and women may be required to wear skirts below the knee.

• In many Orthodox churches or Muslim mosques, local women will cover their hair with a scarf; as a visitor you are usually not required to do the same, but doing so would be a nice way to show respect.

73 Suggested Packing Lists We have included suggestions from Trip Experience Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

And don’t forget a reusable water bottle—you’ll need it to take advantage of any refills we offer as we are working to eliminate single-use plastic bottles on all of our trips.

Recommended Clothing ‰Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts. Sleeveless tops are OK in some places, but when visiting religious sites a short-sleeved top is considered more appropriate.

‰Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. Avoid tight-fitting jeans; they can be uncomfortable, restrict movement, and are not considered appropriate.

‰Travel skirt: It is perfectly acceptable for women travelers to wear trousers or jeans through most of this trip, with a few exceptions. Please see “Style Hints and Dress Codes” for details

‰Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable with good arch support and good traction. Some types of shoes that would be good choices are sturdy walking shoes, running shoes, or trekking shoes.

‰Underwear and sleepwear. For women travelers: one or two sports bras—the roads are very bumpy.

‰Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ‰Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ‰Light cotton or wool sweater for cooler days. Even in summer, this can be useful as motor coach air conditioning can be cold.

Seasonal Clothing Recommendations In summer: ‰Walking shorts: knee-length shorts are OK for big cities. In more conservative areas trousers or a long skirt are preferable.

‰Light materials that breathe—cotton, linen, etc. Summer can bring extreme heat waves to the region.

74 ‰Swimsuit, for the occasional hotel pool

From late fall through early spring: ‰Warm clothing: A warm jacket (coat in the winter), long or thermal underwear, hat, and gloves are in order because temperatures can dip into the 40s and 30s. See the climate charts on the previous pages and pack accordingly.

‰Swimsuit: it might be too cold to swim in the Mediterranean, but a swimsuit could still be useful for an indoor hotel pool.

Essential Items ‰Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but if you are sensitive to fragrances or new products, you may wish to bring your preferred brands. Most hotels do not provide a washcloth, so you may wish to pack one.

‰Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses ‰Sunglasses ‰Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ‰Travel money bag or money belt ‰Light folding umbrella ‰Folding hiking pole, sold in most camping stores ‰Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ‰Pocket-size tissues ‰Moist towelettes (not individual packets) and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser

‰Electrical transformer & plug adapters

Medicines & First Aid Gear ‰Your own prescription medicines ‰Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.

75 ‰An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ‰Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes

Optional Gear ‰Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ‰Hanging toiletry bag (with hook to hang on doorknob and pockets to organize items) ‰Basic sewing kit ‰Insect repellent with DEET (30%-35% strength) ‰Travel journal/note pad and pens ‰Reading materials ‰Home address book ‰Photos or post cards from home, small gift for Home-Hosted visit ‰Phrase book ‰Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates

Electricity Abroad When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

Voltage Electricity in this region is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/ converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics

76 goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

Greece: C, D, E and F

Albania: C

North Macedonia: F

Turkey: C and E (note that C plugs fit into E sockets)

Serbia: F

Kosovo: C and/or F

Type C Type D Type E Type F

Availability Barring the occasional and unpredictable power outage, electricity is as readily available on this adventure as it is in the U.S.

77 CLIMATE & AVERAGE TEMPERATURES

Albania: Albania’s location in a transition zone means its climate is a cross between the typical warm Mediterranean climate and a cooler continental climate. Rainy winters and dry, hot summers are typical of the coastal plain. Away from the coast, summer rainfall is more frequent and the winters are colder, especially in the mountainous areas. In Tirana, summers are hot and humid while the winters tend to be mild.

North Macedonia: North Macedonia has three distinct climate regions. The region where the city of Ohrid is located has the classic Mediterranean climate. Like Greece, this area has plenty of sunshine and dry air most of the year, and winters tend to be mild. Whereas the climate for the capital of Macedonia, Skopje, has precipitation all year round.

Crete, Greece: Overall, Crete has similar weather to Athens, but the heat is never as intense in summer, and the winters are some of the mildest in the country. The moderating factors are the sea breezes and the persistent Etesian wind, which consistently wafts across the Aegean islands and Crete.

Greece: The coastal regions of Greece have an almost ideal climate—plenty of sunshine and dry air most of the year. During spring and early fall, days are generally very comfortable. Although temperatures usually range from 60 to 80 degrees, occasionally they reach extremes of warm and cold. From May to July beaches are less crowded than during the heart of the summer and the water can be warm enough for swimming. In spring, Athens’ surrounding hills come to life with gentle hues of green and colorful wild flowers. Coastal breezes often moderate summer heat, but on calm summer days, Athens can be very hot.

Istanbul, Turkey: Geographically, western Turkey, including Istanbul, is in Europe, while the rest of the country is in and Asia Minor. As you move from the west to the east, the altitude goes up. Due to the varied geography, you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions in Turkey. Istanbul is cooler than most of the places you’ll visit, but winters are mild and snow is rare.

Serbia: Serbia has varied weather within three climatic areas. The Adriatic-Mediterranean climate near the coast is the warmest and mildest, with long, hot summers and short, rainy winters. A continental climate prevails on the Pannonian plain and central hills, with warm and dry summers and moderately cold and snowy winters. The third climate zone includes the higher altitudes, which have a mountainous climate, with short summers and very cold, snow-filled winters. Summers in Belgrade can be very hot, with temperatures in the 90s and high humidity.

Kosovo: While Kosovo experiences a Continental climate, it is heavily influenced by the nearby Mediterranean and mountains. Due to this, the climate is not uniform across the country. The mountain regions in the west and southwest get the coldest, with high amounts of annual rains, short summers, and cold winters. Down south, at the Albania border, the weather is more Mediterranean, with even distributed rain all year and temperatures ranging from average 32 degrees in January to 72 degrees in July. In the north, the Kosovo Plain is influenced by the

78 continental weather, with less yearly rainfall than the more Mediterranean and mountainous areas, colder winters, and very hot summers. Snowfall is significant and common across the majority of the country.

Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH THESSALONIKI, GREECE TIRANA, ALBANIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 49 to 34 81 to 69 1.4 53 to 36 -- 5.1 FEB 52 to 36 80 to 65 1.5 55 to 37 -- 5.8 MAR 58 to 40 83 to 62 1.6 57 to 38 -- 4.2 APR 66 to 46 84 to 57 1.5 65 to 46 -- 5.8 MAY 76 to 54 85 to 54 1.8 73 to 54 -- 5.7 JUN 85 to 61 77 to 45 1.2 82 to 60 -- 3.1 JUL 89 to 66 74 to 42 0.9 88 to 63 -- 1.5 AUG 88 to 65 75 to 45 0.8 90 to 63 -- 0.5 SEP 81 to 59 79 to 51 1.1 82 to 57 -- 1.6 OCT 70 to 51 83 to 63 1.6 73 to 50 -- 4.9 NOV 60 to 44 84 to 72 2.1 62 to 46 -- 6.0 DEC 52 to 37 83 to 72 2.2 56 to 38 -- 5.3

79 MONTH SKOPJE, NORTH MACEDONIA CHANIA, GREECE

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 38 to 25 88 to 76 1.5 57 to 46 -- 5.6 FEB 46 to 29 86 to 63 1.4 59 to 46 -- 4.4 MAR 56 to 36 83 to 52 1.6 63 to 48 -- 3.2 APR 64 to 43 78 to 49 1.5 68 to 52 -- 1.3 MAY 73 to 50 78 to 50 2.3 75 to 57 -- 0.5 JUN 81 to 57 73 to 45 1.9 84 to 64 -- 0.2 JUL 86 to 60 69 to 39 1.4 86 to 70 -- 0.0 AUG 85 to 60 72 to 39 1.1 86 to 68 -- 0.1 SEP 79 to 53 79 to 42 1.4 81 to 64 -- 0.7 OCT 67 to 45 86 to 55 1.8 73 to 59 -- 3.1 NOV 51 to 35 89 to 72 2.3 68 to 54 -- 2.9 DEC 41 to 28 89 to 79 1.8 61 to 48 -- 3.7

MONTH ATHENS, GREECE ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 57 to 45 75 to 63 1.9 46 to 37 82 to 71 3.7 FEB 57 to 45 75 to 62 1.6 47 to 37 81 to 68 2.8 MAR 60 to 47 76 to 60 1.6 51 to 40 83 to 65 2.3 APR 67 to 53 75 to 58 1.0 60 to 47 81 to 61 1.7 MAY 75 to 60 73 to 54 0.6 69 to 54 84 to 59 1.2 JUN 84 to 68 68 to 48 0.2 78 to 62 83 to 55 0.9 JUL 89 to 73 58 to 41 0.2 82 to 66 83 to 51 0.7 AUG 89 to 73 58 to 41 0.3 82 to 67 84 to 52 0.6 SEP 83 to 67 64 to 47 0.4 76 to 61 82 to 53 1.1 OCT 74 to 60 71 to 57 1.9 67 to 55 83 to 61 2.1 NOV 66 to 54 76 to 64 2.2 57 to 47 81 to 66 3.5 DEC 59 to 48 76 to 65 2.5 50 to 42 81 to 71 4.0

80 MONTH BELGRADE, SERBIA PRISTINA, KOSOVO

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (avg) (inches) JAN 40 to 30 89 to 82 1.8 41 to 27 83 1.7 FEB 45 to 32 87 to 73 1.6 46 to 29 76 1.7 MAR 54 to 39 83 to 59 1.9 54 to 35 67 1.9 APR 64 to 47 80 to 56 2.2 65 to 42 64 2.1 MAY 74 to 55 79 to 56 2.3 73 to 49 66 2.7 JUN 79 to 60 81 to 56 4.0 80 to 56 65 2.2 JUL 84 to 64 79 to 50 2.5 86 to 59 57 1.5 AUG 84 to 64 81 to 50 2.3 88 to 59 53 1.1 SEP 75 to 56 86 to 54 2.2 77 to 52 63 2.2 OCT 65 to 48 87 to 63 2.0 65 to 43 74 2.7 NOV 52 to 40 90 to 78 2.2 55 to 36 80 2.0 DEC 42 to 32 89 to 84 2.3 43 to 29 85 2.0

81 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE

O.A.T. Trip Experience Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Experience Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Experience Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Experience Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

Balkan Culture Playground of Zeus, Apollo, and Aphrodite, birthplace of the Olympic Games, academy of Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle, cradle of democracy and Western literature—although it’s relatively small in size, Greece has had a legendary influence on world culture. From its classical capital of Athens, to a countryside speckled with grand amphitheaters and sacred temples, to the sun-soaked islands that dot its coast, it’s no wonder mighty heroes and ancient thinkers found inspiration in this Mediterranean oasis.

In recent years, the country has fallen on harder times: A persistent economic crisis, frictions within the European Union, and immigration issues all present ongoing challenges. But in spite of it all, Greece’s indomitable spirit lives on through its most valuable asset—its people. Warm, proud, and gregarious, Greeks cling fiercely to their long-held traditions—including a love of family and a passion for their famous cuisine—while focusing on shaping their future in a modern world.

Due to its isolation on the Adriatic and Ionian Sea, Albania has long been a bridgehead for various nations and empires seeking to conquest new lands. They’ve been conquered by the Romans and Byzantines and suffered centuries of invasions from the Visigoths, Huns, Bulgars, and Slavs. The Ottoman Turks were the last to conquer this nation in the 15th century and essentially cut Albania off from Western civilization. Albania has lived in isolation through most of its turbulent history—in part due to the rugged mountainous terrain.

The country was closed to outsiders for much of the 20th century until the end of communism in 1991. As a result, Albania opened its borders, and travelers could finally experience the country’s sparkling beaches, crumbling ancient ruins, fortress towns, and awe-inspiring mountain ranges. Despite these years of isolation, Albanians are known for their warm and welcoming nature. Home to Muslims, Christians, and Jews, religious tolerance is one of the most important foundations of Albanian culture.

Part Balkan, part Mediterranean and rich in Greek, Roman and Ottoman heritage, Macedonia has a complex history and national identity. Macedonians trace their history and culture back to the time of Alexander the Great. Under his rule, the Macedonian Empire had power and territory across Greece, Thrace, Asia Minor, , , Afghanistan, and .

82 Following Alexander the Great’s death and the end of the Macedonian Empire, Macedonia became part of the Roman Empire, the , and finally the Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman Empire occupied Macedonia until it was partitioned in 1912 and 1913 because of the Balkan Wars. The land was split between Bulgaria, Greece, Serbia, and Albania. Modern-day North Macedonia was formed as a republic under former Yugoslavia after World War II. In 1991, it obtained national independence.

There are cultural remnants of each country that has occupied Macedonia, including a strong Christian Orthodox culture—approximately 67% of the population identifies as Eastern Orthodox—an Islamic culture, and a small Jewish culture. While the country has only recently gained independence, modern-day Macedonians proudly associate their national identity with the ancient history and culture of Alexander the Great. However, the country often receives criticism and denial of their cultural identity based on technical claims surrounding ancient history. In fact, nations have blocked Macedonia’s entry into the European Union and NATO over these claims.

Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in Europe is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Consent is especially important if you want to take a photo of a child or minor—ask their parent for permission first. To get a great portrait, show interest in your subject and try to have a bit of social interaction to put them at ease. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK.

Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.

Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Most hotels will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set your own personal number). Please utilize them.

Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your wallet or money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

83 Hotel Courtesy in Greece Greek hotels do not allow food and beverages to be taken from their breakfast rooms, nor is it courteous to eat or drink food or beverages purchased elsewhere in hotel common rooms. In conformity with municipal laws to promote urban decorum, hotels do not allow hanging laundry on room balconies. Travel clotheslines, used in your bathroom, are a more private and effective solution.

Macedonia or North Macedonia? For many centuries the heartland of Alexander the Great was known simply as “Macedonia”. But over time, this region was divided by two different countries—one called Greece and one called Macedonia. To the Greeks “Macedonia” is a northern province within Greece and they were concerned that the country of Macedonia would try to claim Greek territory. To the Macedonians, using “Macedonia” was a symbol of their heritage and question of national pride. So the use of the name was controversial and widely discussed on both sides.

In 2019 a compromised was reached when the country formerly known as Macedonia changed its official name to “North Macedonia”. Because the name is still relatively new, you may see both in various places, such as online or on signs.

In this document, we use “Macedonia” when referring to the region at large—or when talking about historical events—and “North Macedonia” when referring to the present-day country.

The Finer Points of Turkish Etiquette Don’t let the fine points of Turkish customs worry you; Turks know that visitors can’t be expected to know every detail. Much of what is considered polite in Turkey is similar to what’s polite in the U.S. But as a matter of interest, our regional office has put together a list of “finer points” that might surprise you:

• Body posture is important. Sprawling, pointing the soles of your feet at someone, or keeping your legs crossed when someone speaks to you are seen as impolite.

• Even after eating, your host might press you to take more. Perversely, while it is polite to accept a first helping, it is polite to decline a second helping…at least at first. (Eventually giving in and accepting more because the food is just too good to miss is perfectly acceptable.)

• Blowing your nose loudly and in public is frowned on.

• If a piece of bread is dropped, you may see a Turk pick it up, kiss it, and touch it to their forehead. This gesture is in remembrance that bread is the stuff of life and a gift from God.

84 Toilets in Turkey Although all our accommodations feature western-style toilets, some rest stops on the road and some public restrooms will have eastern-style squat toilets. For women travelers who are novices at using a squat toilet, a skirt might be easier to maneuver than trousers. (This does not mean you need to wear a skirt every day, just that it might be worthwhile to bring a skirt for days with long transfers through small villages. The other “trick” is to wear trousers, but roll up the legs.)

Public toilets may be hard to find; it is just not a common facility in this part of the world. And inevitably, when one is found it is out of toilet paper, or soap, or both. Carry a travel-sized roll of toilet paper or packets of tissues along something to clean your hands—like anti-bacterial gel or moist wipes—and you’ll be prepared no matter what. Rest stops on the road will be widely spaced, and may be extremely basic. Despite their basic nature, there is often a small fee to use the restroom.

Because many buildings have older plumbing, with narrow pipes that easily clog, it is also common for public restrooms to offer a special trashcan inside the stall. Waste paper is put into the can instead of flushed. You may also see this arrangement when visiting a home.

Alcohol Consumption in Turkey Although is forbidden by Islam, attitudes towards alcohol are more relaxed in Turkey and than in the . In Turkey, alcohol is readily available in city restaurants and cafes, and areas that cater to foreign guests. (It is, however, heavily taxed.) Markets may not sell alcohol between 10pm and 6am (but restaurants can). You may want to try one of the local specialties—raki in Turkey. Just don’t bring alcohol as a gift for the locals—if someone is personally strict in adhering to Islam, they won’t be able to enjoy it.

Greek Cuisine A perfect Mediterranean climate. More than 6,000 islands and no mainland location more than 90 miles from the sea. Bountiful (and mostly organic) olive groves, fruit orchards, pastures, and vineyards. With all this richness, Greece has had no reason to change or complicate its cuisine in thousand of years. Here, it is the quality and freshness of simple ingredients that makes every dish a flavorful standout.

So let’s start as the Greeks do, with mesethes, or . These are frequently described as appetizers and though a specific may be offered as a first course, for most Greeks mezes is a separate event in and of itself. One goes out for mezes with friends and family, sharing various small plates of food, drinks, and conversation. You might be served olives or olive paste (pasta elias) to spread on breadsticks, chunks of feta or cheese, marithes (grilled octopus or smelts), keftedes (seasoned meatballs), kolokythokeftedes (zucchini fritters), or grape leaves (dolmathakia or just ) rolled and stuffed with rice, pine nuts, meat, or other seasonings. These will all be accompanied by (fish roe dip) tzatziki (yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip), melitzanosalata (eggplant dip), or fava (bean dip.)

85 Dishes that are popular all over Greece include the white bean soup called fasolatha; and moussaka, a layered casserole of eggplant, ground lamb, tomato sauce, and potatoes covered in béchamel sauce and cheese, and spiced with . Try also pastitsio, a lasagna-like dish made with pasta and ground beef or lamb, béchamel, cheese, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Stalls everywhere sell gyros and souvlaki, which are chunks or slices of seasoned grilled meat (usually lamb or pork) with chopped tomatoes and onions in pita bread, with lashings of tzatziki. For something lighter, there’s spanakopita is a phyllo pastry layered with feta cheese and spinach.

In the morning, start your day with a bowl of Greek yogurt drizzled with honey. It will be creamier, thicker, and tastier than any you buy off American supermarket shelves. As you head out, you may see locals having coffee with koulouri – pretzel rings covered in sesame seeds.

As for regional specialties, the Aegean abounds with seafood such as (rockfish soup), cured , and various grilled whole fish drizzled with ladholemono (a lemon and oil dressing). But try also chick pea fritters from , kapama (kid goat stuffed with rice), and the tomatokeftedes (tomato fritters) of .

In the , look for arni me votana, a lamb casserole with vegetables, beans, tomatoes, potatoes and herbs. This region is also famous for kaimaki, a sweet cream topped with nuts and honey. is the signature dish of the Ionian islands, savory chicken or beef simmered in wine, cinnamon, garlic and spices. It’s often served with bucatini pasta, a nod to the area’s Venetian past. Elsewhere in western Greece you may find glyko kastano, a pudding with honey and orange. And in , Macedonia, and parts of northern Greece, the influence of Ottoman and Balkan cultures means more and meat. Look for savory pites pies, or tzigerosarmades (rice balls with spiced lamb, pine nuts and .)

If you have room for dessert, there are many variations on the classic Greek baklava that involve honey and phyllo. Try also revani a moist cake with lemon and orange; buttery kourabiethes shortbread cookies; or the classic galatoboureko, filled with custard.

Albanian Cuisine Albanian food has many Greek and Turkish influences, so you’ll see familiar dishes like spinach in pastry (byrek), sweet baklava, and grilled qofte meatballs. But it differs in its use of dairy, creating unique dishes like the quiche-like darilike tave kosi; or a fried local cheese called kackavall. Vegetarians will love perime ne zgare (a mixed grill of eggplant, zucchini, onions, and peppers) or speca me gjize (peppers stuffed with rice, cottage cheese, and spices). On a hot day, try tarator, a cold soup of cucumber, garlic, , , vinegar, and spices.

Macedonian Cuisine Macedonians enjoy other foods that are common throughout the Balkans, including taratur (yogurt with shredded cucumber) and baklava. Macedonian specialties include (a sauce made from sweet red peppers), tavce gravce (baked beans), shopska salata (a salad combining sliced cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes with soft white cheese), and (pork chops and mushrooms in brown gravy). Another national favorite is pastrmajlija, an oval-shaped, fried dough pie topped with cubed meat.

86 Due to the long presence of the Ottoman Turks in the region, the traditional cuisine of North Macedonia not only has a Balkan and Mediterranean spin but also Turkish influences. Among the country’s dishes of Turkish origin are kebapcinja (grilled beef kebabs) and the burek, a flaky pastry often stuffed with cheese, meat, or spinach.

Turkish Cuisine Turkey’s storied gastronomic tradition is often ranked as one of the world’s top three cuisines (alongside French and Chinese). Aside from Turkey’s own rich agricultural bounty, its crossroads location has meant that exotic ingredients from Persia, Central Asia, Africa, the Mediterranean and beyond have graced the local diet for centuries. Then there is the technical artistry of the legendary Ottoman and Seljuk palace chefs—chefs who were often sent abroad (or imported from far-flung imperial colonies) expressly for the purpose of inventing and refining new dishes. Prepare to be delighted by dishes like these:

Turks like big breakfasts so the day may start with a range of and pastries, fresh fruit, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh yogurt or (similar to clotted cream) with honey. There will also be an array of meats, such as sucuk (a spicy sausage), (a seasoned, air- cured beef) and borek, which are flaky phyllo dough pastries filled with meat or cheese. Be sure to try the specialty called , eggs whisked into a pot of cooked vegetables with broth that is something like a cross between scrambled eggs and stew. Wash it down with some tea, fresh pomegranate juice, or strong, sweet .

Different kinds of restaurants specialize in certain dishes. Be sure to visit an ev yemekleri, which are typically run by women and serve up home-cooked meals. This would be a good place to try mercimek corbasim, a hearty , or sulu yemek, a stew that can include any combination of vegetables and may include meat, poultry, sausages, or seafood. A balik restoran is a fish and seafood restaurant, where you can sample sardalya (grilled sardines), palamut (autumn ), levrek (sea ), or hamsili pilav (oven baked rice layered with fresh anchovies). Don’t miss the chance to try midye , stuffed with aromatic rice, nuts, and spices such as raisins, pine nuts, , , cinnamon, red pepper flakes, , and .

Turkey is famous as the home of kebabs, and there are dozens of varieties of these grilled (and often skewered) delicacies made of seasoned beef, lamb, or chicken. (The one thing you won’t find in Turkey is pork, as it is forbidden according to the Islamic halal tradition.) Kebabs are the most ubiquitous street food, followed closely by pide, a flatbread-style topped with your choice of kasarlı or peynirli cheese, yumurtali (egg), sucuklu (sausage) and more. Try also mantg, a meat-filled drenched in yogurt and spiced oil.

If you are a vegetarian you will find a vast array of tasty options. Dishes cooked without any meat are called zeytin yaglı—which means vegetables cooked with olive oil. Most are served cold. Yaprak are grape leaves filled with rice and seasoned with onion, mint, currants, peppers and cinnamon. You will also find similarly stuffed , zucchini, or peppers called dolmas or imam bayildi. Taze fasulye are green beans simmered with tomatoes and onions. These are all standards when you order mezes, the traditional array of Turkish appetizers.

87 Turks love their sweets, including , an out-of-this-world frozen dessert made from orchid flour and a sweet, fruity resin called . It’s like ice cream that you eat with a knife and fork. A Ramadan tradition is güllac, a pastry flavored with milk, rosewater, pomegranate seeds, and nuts. Or keep it simple with kayisi tatlisi, apricots stuffed with cream and nuts. Finally, your visit won’t be complete without a taste of baklava, a pastry of layered phyllo dough, honey, and that is perhaps the most famous confection to come out of Turkey’s imperial kitchens.

Serbian Cuisine Serbians love their meat—especially when it’s cooked pod sac style, in a covered pan until it’s fall-off-the-bone tender. Then there’s pljeksavica (“Serbian hamburger”) and karadjordjeva šnicla or schnitzel, a breaded veal cutlet smothered with tartar sauce. For a snack, try cvarci, crispy, salty pork rinds. Almost all of this will be served with ajvar, a garlicky, red pepper relish. And you can top it off with knedle, potato-dough dumplings stuffed with a plum and rolled in sugar and cinnamon.

But Serbian food isn’t all meat all the time! Vegetables and dairy get attention too. Some key dishes to look for include prebranac (a baked bean soup), sopska salad, or soft unripened cheeses called kajmak or mladi sir (similar to cottage cheese).

Kosovan Cuisine Meals is Kosovo commonly utilize grilled meats (beef, chicken, or lamb) or freshwater fish like carp and trout, served with potatoes or rice. Pies, pastries, , and cheeses are a staple in the small country, with the most common vegetables (fresh served in the summer and pickled or preserved in the winter) are cucumbers, green tomatoes, and peppers. Pies, savory and stuffed with meats and vegetables or sweet and filled with yogurt are an important part of any meal in Kosovo.

Much of Kosovan cuisine is heavily influenced by its neighbors, notably Albania, Serbia, and Turkey, due to their close contact and shared history. As such, many traditional Kosovan meals will look familiar, but often the dish will come with their own local twist. Familiar meals include baklava, sarma (from Turkey, sarma is cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with minced meat, rice, vegetables, and a variety of seasonings) , slivovica (Serbia’s national drink, slivovica uses damson are the base for this ), pite me spanaq (better known as spanakopita, a typically Greek spinach pastry), and burek (an popular street food, this Albanian flaky pastry is usually filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables). Other foods that have been more influenced by Kosovo’s own traditions and environment are (a common brandy in the Balkans but either made with or walnuts in Kosovo), cevapi (small minced meat sausages made with beef, pork, veal, or lamb and served with soft grilled flat bread and a variety of spreads), tarator (a cold herbal soup made with yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, walnuts, and fennel), and stuffed peppers (a traditional summer dish of fresh peppers stuffed with minced meat, vegetables, rice, and spices. It can also be served stuffed with (fermented milk) and cottage cheese.

88 Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

Crafts & Souvenirs

Greece Specialties include handicrafts, gold and silver jewelry, embroidered shirts and dresses, fabrics, flokati rugs of fluffy sheep wool, pottery, onyx, marble, alabaster, and leather goods. These are available in the main shopping area downtown around Syntagma, Omonia, and Kolonaki squares as well as in Monastiraki, the flea market, where shopping sometimes involves bargaining. Some of the best jewelry comes from Ioannina, ceramics from Sifnos and , and embroidery from Skryos, Crete, Lefkas, and Rhodes. Thessaly and regions specialize in flokati rugs.

Albania When visiting Albania, souvenirs you will want to keep an eye out for are homemade ceramics with traditional Albanian patterns, çifteli (a traditional guitar-like instrument), olive oil, a qilim (a handwoven rug), pupa (hand-knitted fabric slippers), bunker-shaped ashtrays, skënderbeu , and handmade jewelry.

North Macedonia When looking for souvenirs, look no further North Macedonia’s Ohrid pearls (made by two families, Filevi and Talevi, using a closely guarded secret technique), ajvar (a spread made with red bell peppers, eggplants, and oil), filigree jewelry, and opinci (traditional hand-made leather shoes).

Turkey Traditional souvenirs include beautiful handmade rugs, tiles, pottery, gold jewelry, and products made of copper, silk, and leather.

Bargaining: In Turkey, some shops have fixed prices. In the open-air markets prices are usually flexible and negotiating is normal. The only rule is that if you make an offer, you should be prepared to buy at that price. Bring a mix of small bills so that you can pay in exact change.

89 Tip: Street vendors have been known to be persistent, so if you really aren’t interested, it is best not to start the bargaining process, or even make eye contact.

Antiques: Items that are 100 years old or older are not allowed to leave Turkey. If someone offers you an antique item for sale, keep in mind that if it is truly more than 100 years old, they should not be selling it to you. They are either ignorant of the customs laws or the item is really not as old as they say it is.

Serbia claims to have the finest wines of the region, but up-and-comer Serbia offers some wonderful options too—especially from the Oplenac region, considered the “Serbian Tuscany.” Other souvenirs you will want to bring home with you include: Yugoslavia memorabilia, traditional Serbian pottery, local honey, ajvar (red pepper dip), Licider heart (a traditional heart shaped cookie), handmade jewellery, ratluk (the Serbian answer to ), and pirot kilim (handmade flat tapestry rug made in Pirot).

Kosovo Common Kosovan souvenirs include local wines, soaps, preserves, religious items and icons such as the Hyjnesha n’fron(the Goddess on the Throne), and filigree jewelry. Filigree is a historic metalwork craft of making jewelry or objects out of delicate twisted silver or gold. Other popular crafts perfect for a souvenir includes lacework, embroidery, rugs, leatherworks, handmade musical instruments, woolen clothes, black pottery, and carpets.

U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

90 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Greece

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 50,949 square miles

• Capital: Athens

• Population: 10,775,643 (estimate)

• Languages: Greek

• Geography: The peninsula that constitutes mainland Greece is surrounded by more than 5000 islands, of which 220 are inhabited—169 have more than 150 inhabitants. The islands are divided into six groups: the , the Ionians, the Dodecanese, the islands of the Northeastern Aegean, the and the Saronic Gulf islands. The two largest islands, Crete and Evia, do not belong to any group. Roughly four-fifths of Greece is mountainous, with most land lying over 1500m (4920ft) above sea level. Epiros and Macedonia, in northern Greece, still have extensive forests, but goat grazing, felling and forest fires have seriously denuded the rest of the country.

• Religions: Greek Orthodox 98%, Muslim 1.3%, other 0.7%

• Time Zone: Greece is on , two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (seven hours ahead of Eastern Time). Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: Greece

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/25 25th of March Greece celebrates a number of national 05/01 Labor Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling 08/15 Dormition of the Holy Virgin during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/28 The Ochi Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day

01/06 Epiphany 12/26 Synaxis of the Mother of God

Greece: A Brief History The glory that was Greece reached its pinnacle during the Classical period, between 500 and 300 BC. But the seeds for that golden age, which has stood for centuries as a beacon of Western civilization, were sown at least 700,000 years ago, when humans first appeared in Greece. But it was during the Bronze Age, around 3,000 BC, when three major Greek civilizations emerged.

91 The Cycladic culture of the Aegean islands was sustained by farming and seafaring. But the small island populations made it hard for larger, more complex societies to organize. Not so for the Minoans of Crete, who created a palace culture, a written system of language, and effective military and mercantile sectors. Had Crete not been wracked by natural disasters, the Minoans may have prevailed against the mainland Mycenaeans who landed around 1400 BC. But their star faded in 1100 BC, when the Dorians took over, and Greece entered a Dark Age.

Light dawned again around 800 B.C., when the Greeks came into contact with the Phoenicians. The Greeks borrowed their alphabet, which Homer used to record his epics. This was followed by the Persian Wars, which continued from 520 to 480 BC, and prompted some Greek city-states to form an alliance under Athens called the . When Persia was beaten in 461 BC, the leader Pericles presided over Athens’ golden age. He rebuilt the city, including its iconic Acropolis. Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides were writing plays; and Socrates and Plato were teaching. But when the Delian League clashed with the militaristic Peloponnesian League of Sparta, a Peloponnesian war persisted for 27 years, with Sparta prevailing.

Athens was conquered by Philip II of Macedon in 360 BC. When he was assassinated, his son Alexander (the Great) was embraced by Athens. Though Alexander built an empire that reached as far east as India, his death left Greece vulnerable. By 200 BC, Rome had annexed all of Greece, but they venerated the culture. Athens remained an important seat of learning until Justinian closed its philosophy schools in AD 529. Under Byzantine rule (AD 300–1200), many temples were modified to Christian use, and Athens became a provincial backwater.

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the Ottomans seized Athens and ruled for almost 400 years, during which time the Acropolis was desecrated. The Ottoman yoke was shaken off with the bloody 1829 War of Independence. Through the intervention of Britain, France, and Russia, Greece became a monarchy whose kings were largely foreigners. This helped to keep Greece out of World War I, but World War II was another story. The country was overrun by Hitler and the civilian population suffered greatly. More than half the nation’s Jews were murdered.

In 1944, civil war broke out between the communist and monarchist resistance groups who had helped defeat the Nazis. It lasted for three years and took more lives than the entirety of World War II. A diaspora ensued, with many Greeks fleeing to Australia, the United States, and Canada. Greece joined NATO in 1952 and continued to be ruled as a monarchy until 1967, when former King Constantine fled Greece after a military junta. In 1974, democracy was restored and the monarchy was abolished in favor of a republic. In 1981, Greece joined the European Union.

The focus for 21st century Greece has been its economy. Integration with Europe brought a rising standard of living, but also skyrocketing costs and a serious debt crisis. This threatened to take down the EU, which provided bailouts that required strict austerity. Greeks endured record unemployment, protests, and successive governments. By 2018, Greece’s credit rating improved and in 2019, the center-right New Democracy party of Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis won a landslide election, with a term ending in 2022.

92 Albania

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 11,100 square miles

• Capital: Tirana

• Languages: Albanian

• Geography: Occupying an area slightly smaller than Maryland, Albania lies between Greece to the south and Montenegro and Kosovo to the north. The geography is mostly mountains and hills, small plains along the coast, with farmland in between the two.

• Population: 3,029,278 (estimate)

• Religions: Muslim 56.7%, Roman Catholic 10%, Orthodox 6.8%, atheist 2.5%, Bektashi 2.1%, other 5.7%, unspecified 16.2%

• Time Zone: Albania is on Central European Time (six hours ahead of Eastern Time). Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: Albania

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/22 Nevruz Day Albania celebrates a number of national 05/01 Labour Day/May Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Ramadan. To find out if you will be 10/19 Mother Teresa Beatification Day traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 11/28 Independence Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 11/29 Liberation Day

03/14 Summer Day 12/8 National Youth Day

12/25 Christmas Day

Albania: A Brief History Though many of the former Yugoslav republics can trace their ancient roots to the Illyrian people, Albania has the strongest connection to these seafaring marauders. The is directly descended from Illyrian, and is completely distinct from Serbo-Croatian or any other European language.

When the Roman Empire split into its eastern and western spheres, Illyria fell within the eastern or Byzantine realm. Gradually, Illyrian pantheism was replaced by Eastern Orthodoxy. By the late Middle Ages, urban Albanian society prospered both culturally and economically, thanks to its wealthy mercantile class, and education and the arts flowered.

93 Byzantine rule declined as waves of , Venetians, Normans and Serbians took over. Then the Turks began invading Illyria in 1388, occupying all of it by 1479. An important effect of this was the Islamization of the people. Under Ottoman laws, Christian families had to give up one son to convert to Islam and serve in the military, but Muslim families were exempt. As a result, many Albanians embraced the new faith. The Turks ruled for 400 years.

When an Albanian independence movement arose in 1878, it was put down by the Turkish army in 1881. But the dream of nationhood did not die. Uprisings took place in 1910 and 1912 that resulted in the formation of an . But the Great (Britain, France, Germany, Russia, Austria-Hungary and ) intervened, ceding the provinces of Kosovo to Serbia, and Çamëria to Greece. This left many ethnic Albanians outside the national borders. During World War I, the weak new nation was occupied by various neighbors. After the war, a deal to partition Albania among its neighbors was thwarted by US President Woodrow Wilson.

A republican government formed in 1920, but was overthrown in 1924 by Ahmed Bey Zogu, who declared himself king. He allied himself with Italy, until Mussolini invaded in 1939. Albania was occupied by the Nazis in 1943, but by 1944, it was liberated by the communist-led resistance. Its leader, Enver Hoxha, became Supreme Comrade of the People’s Republic of Albania.

Hoxha undertook a radical modernization program that included agrarian reform, the nationalization of industries, the eradication of poverty and illiteracy, and elevation of women’s status. It also instituted brutal purges and suppressed all civil liberties, foreign travel, and religion. Albania received substantial aid from the Soviet Union and China, but over time, Hoxha broke ties with those regimes, accusing them of having betrayed Marxist ideals in favor of rapprochement with the west. An isolated Albania suffered food shortages and widening unrest.

When Hoxha died in 1985, his successor, Ramiz Alia, instituted some democratic reforms, but failed to deliver on most promises and was ousted. The country descended into chaos, as smuggling operations and drug and human trafficking proliferated, and peasants were forced off farms. A 1997 pyramid investment scheme (which may have been supported by the government) robbed about 70% of Albanians of their savings. Widespread rioting ensued.

In the 2005 elections, the Democratic Party staged a comeback, promising to tackle crime and corruption. Progress on these and other fronts gained Albania’s entry into NATO in 2009. Since 2015, the Socialist Party has gained power, subsequent elections have been peaceful, and Albania is further integrated with the west. This brings the elusive goal of EU membership more within Albania’s reach.

North Macedonia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 9,928 square miles

• Capital: Skopje

• Languages: Macedonian is the official language

94 • Ethnicities: Macedonian 64.2%, Albanian 25.2%, Turkish 3.9%, Roma (Gypsy) 2.7%, Serb 1.8%, other 2.2%

• Location: North Macedonia is in Southeastern Europe, located north of Greece.

• Geography: Occupying an area slightly larger than Vermont, North Macedonia lies between Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, and Serbia. North Macedonia has mountainous territory covered with deep basins and valleys.

• Population: 2,096,015 (estimate)

• Religion: Macedonian Orthodox 64.8%, Muslim 33.3%, other Christian 0.4%, other and unspecified 1.5%

• Time Zone: North Macedonia is on Central European Time (six hours ahead of Eastern Time). Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: North Macedonia

In addition to the holidays listed below, North 05/24 Saints Cyril and Methodius’ Day Macedonia celebrates a number of national 08/02 Republic Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Eid al-Fitr. To find out if you will 09/08 Independence Day be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/11 Day of People’s Uprising

01/01 New Year’s Day 10/23 Day of the Macedonian Revolutionary Struggle 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day 12/08 Saint Kliment Ohridski’s Day 05/01 Labour Day

North Macedonia: A Brief History Pre-14th Century

Today North Macedonia can boast a long and rich history with various cultural influences over the centuries, from the Ancient Greeks to the Ottoman Empire, from Serbian rule to independence. Under Philip II and his son Alexander the Great during the 4th century B.C., the Kingdom of Macedonia experienced a period of great expansion, though the states they established were not very long-lasting. It was not until the Romans arrived towards the end of the 3rd century that the region began to stabilize. The Romans divided the area into two sections, the first under Byzantium rule, and the second under the influence of Orthodox Christianity. Under the Roman Empire, many roads and sites were constructed that still exist today.

After the introduction of Christianity, two monks known as Saints Cyril and Methodius were sent to the region in the 9th century A.D. to spread their teachings. They are attributed with creating an alphabet that later became the Cyrillic alphabet, uniting an aspect of the various Slavic cultures. Despite this commonality, wars still erupted between Byzantium and the Slavs in

95 modern-day Bulgaria until Byzantium won the Battle of Belasica and took over Macedonia once again. Eventually Serbian rule developed in the 12th century and under Stefan Dušan, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, and parts of Bosnia and Serbia were united under the Serbian empire.

The Ottoman Empire

The Serbians remained in power until 1389 when the Ottoman Empire defeated the Slavs in the Battle of Kosovo and by the end of the 14th century, Macedonia was under Ottoman rule. During this period, there were many Turkish influences on Macedonian culture and economics as they continued to rule until 1913. After the decline of Turkish rule under the Ottoman Empire, following the end of the first Balkan War, the surrounding states, including Serbia, Montenegro, Greece, and Bulgaria, divided the remains of the Ottoman Empire and established boundaries through the Treaty of Bucharest in 1913.

World War I

Throughout World War I, Macedonia was occupied by Bulgaria and upon the end of the war in 1918, Macedonia was incorporated into Serbia again. Serbia, , and Slovenia then joined together as Yugoslavia in 1929. During the Second World War, Yugoslavia was invaded and divided between the Axis powers. Macedonia was occupied once again by Bulgaria until 1945 when Yugoslavia was reformed under communist control as six republics, including Macedonia.

Independence

On September 8, 1991, the Republic of Macedonia gained their independence after 74% of Macedonians voted to secede from Yugoslavia and form their own autonomous state. Since declaring their independence, Macedonia has faced a lot of opposition from Greece regarding the name of their new republic. Greece argued that the name “Macedonia” came from the Ancient Greeks and in using it for the newly established Republic, it would foster the desire to reclaim Greek Makadonían territories. Because of its fears that Macedonia would try to reclaim these territories, Greece did all it could to prevent Macedonia from entering into the United Nations and other organizations. It was not until a temporary name, the “Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia”, was established that Greece allowed Macedonia to enter into the United Nations. In 2019, a compromise was reached between the two nations when the country officially changed its name to “North Macedonia”.

Turkey

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 302,535 square miles

• Capital: Ankara (although Istanbul is the largest city)

• Government: Republican parliamentary democracy

• Languages: Turkish is the dominant language in the Turkic language group, which also includes such lesser-known tongues as Kirghiz, Kazakh, and Azerbaijani.

96 • Location: Turkey occupies the Asian peninsula of Anatolia (Asia Minor) and a tiny corner of the European peninsula of Thrace. These two regions form a land bridge, which is interrupted by a narrow waterway called the Bosporus. To the west, Turkey is bordered by the Aegean Sea, Greece, and Bulgaria; to the east, by Georgia, , and Iran; on the north, by the Black Sea; and to the south, by the , Syria, and Iraq. While most of Turkey is in Asia, because of her membership in the Council of Europe she is regarded as a European country.

• Geography: Turkey is relatively big (larger than Texas) and has a varied geography. Many visitors come to Turkey expecting to find mostly dusty deserts, palm trees, and camel caravans, when in fact its diverse landscape also includes lots of craggy snowcapped mountains, gentle hills, broad lakes, cool pine forests, and miles of white beaches.

• Population: 80,845,215 (estimate)

• Religion: Muslim 99.8%, other 0.2%

• Time Zone: Turkey goes by Eastern European time: two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, or seven hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. When it is noon in Turkey, it’s 5 am in New York, and 2 am in Los Angeles. In the warm months from late March through late September, Turkish clocks are turned ahead one hour for daylight saving time.

National Holidays: Turkey

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor and Solidarity Day Turkey celebrates a number of national 05/19 Commemoration of Atatürk, Youth and holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Sports Day Ramadan and Sacrifice Feast. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, 07/15 Democracy and National Unity Day please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 08/30 Victory Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 10/29 Republic Day 04/23 National Sovereignty and Children’s Day

Turkey: A Brief History Long before recorded history, nomadic peoples inhabited Turkey. By 7000 BC, they’d ceased wandering and founded permanent settlements, including one of the world’s oldest cities, Çatalhöyük (outside Konya). Turkey’s first empire arose during the Bronze Age with the Hittites. Rivals of Babylon and Egypt, they were eventually conquered by Assyrians and Greeks. Hellenic Turkey flourished in places like Troy, Lycia, and the Phyrgia. After Alexander the Great “liberated” Anatolia from Persia, the Romans arrived in 129 BC, and made Ephesus their capital.

In 330 AD, the Roman Emperor Constantine converted to Christianity, renamed Byzantium Constantinople, and made it his capital. For the next seven centuries it was the heart of the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) empire. But by the 11th century AD, Byzantine power had declined,

97 and the Seljuk Turks invaded from Central Asia, bringing Islam with them, and conquering Syria, Palestine, and parts of the waning Byzantine Empire. The rise of the Seljuks prompted Christian Europe to mount a series of bloody Crusades. The Seljuk’s demise came in the late 13th century when Mongols swept across Anatolia, splintering the Seljuk empire into small principalities called beyliks. One of these was led by Othman I, founder of the Ottoman dynasty.

The Ottoman empire grew based on an administrative and military model called the janissary system. It plucked the smartest and strongest boys from conquered subjects, and schooled them in Islam and war. For 300 years, this army pushed the empire from Anatolia to the Middle East, North Africa, and into Europe. In 1453, the Byzantine Empire received a deathblow when the Ottomans took the capital, Constantinople. Ottoman culture reached its zenith under Suleiman the Magnificent (1520–66), who codified Ottoman law, ensured tolerance of Christians and Jews, sponsored a flourishing of the arts, and expanded the borders. His likes were never seen again and after a succession of weak rulers and growing opposition from European states, by the late 17th century the empire began to decline. Its final gasp came with World War I.

Turkey’s next visionary leader arose just after the war, during the Greek occupation of Izmir in 1919. A commander called Mustafa Kemal led his armies to victory against the French, Italians, and Greeks, who were expelled in 1922. In 1923, Turkey became an independent republic, with Kemal as president. Given the title “Ataturk” (meaning “father of the Turks”), he initiated a program of modernization, democratization and radical westernization. Ataturk made sweeping reforms to ensure that the new republic would be secular, including a new legal code to supplant Islamic law, and the limitation of clerical power. Women were granted equal rights, the alphabet was changed from Arabic to Latin, and even western styles of dress were favored. Ataturk also instituted free and compulsory education, and industrialized the economy. Ataturk ruled until his death in 1938, but the pillars of his policy, known as Kemalism, are still revered.

After World War II, Turkey furthered relations with Western Europe by joining the United Nations, and increasing individual liberties. Turkish troops fought in Korea, and Turkey was made a member of NATO in 1952. However, economic difficulties led to a military coup in 1960, followed by nearly two decades in which Turkey alternated between civilian and military rule.

In 1982, a new constitution was adopted and Turkey resumed its western ties. During the Gulf War, it supported UN forces. In 2014, Recep Tayyip Erdogan became president, after having served as Prime Minister since 2003. A religious conservative, he has exerted authoritarian control, and criticism of his regime for suppression of dissent, human rights abuses, and attacks on journalists are some reasons why Turkey’s accession to the EU has been stalled since 2016.

Serbia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 29,913 square miles

• Capital: Belgrade

• Language: Serbian is the official language. Albanian is also spoken.

98 • Location: Serbia is a landlocked country in central and southeastern Europe, covering the central part of the Balkan Peninsula and the southern part of the Pannonian Plain. Serbia borders Hungary to the north; and Bulgaria to the east; the Republic of North Macedonia and Albania to the south; and Montenegro, Croatia, and to the west.

• Geography: Serbia’s is slightly smaller than South Carolina, and its northern region is rich with fertile plains, where as its eastern region has limestone ranges and basins. The southeast features a mountainous landscape.

• Population: 6,926,705 (estimate)

• Religion: Serbian Orthodox 84.6%, Catholic 5%, Muslim 3.1%, Protestant 1%, atheist 1.1%, unknown 4.5%.

• Time Zone: Serbia is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of North American Eastern Time. Daylight Saving Time goes from the last Sunday of March to the last Sunday of October.

National Holidays: Serbia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 02/15 Statehood of the Republic of Serbia Serbia celebrates a number of national 02/16 Statehood of the Republic of holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such Serbia (Day 2) as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www. 05/01 Labour Day timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/02 Labour Day (Day 2) 01/01 New Year’s Day 11/11 Armistice Day 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day

Serbia: A Brief History Like its neighbors, Serbia was settled by Illyrians and Celts; subsumed into the Roman Empire; and inhabited by waves of Slavic people. The Slavs merged with native Illyrians, Thracians and Dacians to form the ethnic base of the Serbian people. The next nation-shaping event occurred in AD 395, when the Roman Empire split into eastern and western spheres, and Serbia became part of the eastern realm. Subsequent proselytizing by saints Cyril and Methodius led the Serbs to embrace the Orthodox religion, which is still the heart of the Serb national identity.

That identity began forming in 1166 when Stefan Nemanja, a Raskan chief, formed the first Serbian kingdom. His successors in the Nemanjic dynasty expanded it from the Danube to the Peloponnessus. Through shrewd diplomacy, King Stefan was recognized by the Pope Honorius III, and his brother Sava was granted an archbishopric by the Patriarch of Constantinople. This established the first independent Serbian Orthodox church, with Saint Sava as its head.

99 In 1389, the Serbs fought the Ottomans at the Battle of Kosovo. Though the battle ended in a draw, for Serbs it took on mythic proportions: Kosovo came to symbolize their national suffering, in which Serbs sacrificed their lives for their religious ideals. In truth, the Serbs were granted several decades to recover, as the Turks had suffered too many casualties to push on. It was only in 1459 that the Ottomans resumed their takeover; by 1521, Serbia was fully occupied.

The Ottomans dismantled most of Serbian society—except for the Serbian Orthodox church. The Ottoman administrative system revolved around the extraction of revenues and was not concerned with converting subjects to Islam. Instead, they required the Christian ecclesiastical authorities to serve as their functionaries. Still, frequent Serbian peasant uprisings broke out and a revolt in 1815 gained the Serbs a degree of autonomy; by 1878, Serbia achieved full statehood. When the first World War ended and with it, the Hapsburg dynasty, a new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes emerged. It became the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929.

When the Nazis invaded in World War II, the Yugoslav state was divided among the Axis nations. The Croatian Ustase government, who were Nazi puppets, waged a genocidal campaign against Jews, Serbs, and Roma people. Two major resistance groups emerged: the communist partisans under Tito, and the Chetnik royalists. They were so bitterly opposed that they turned on each other. By 1944, the communist partisans (with Allied support) overwhelmed the Nazis. Serbia joined the new Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia under Marshal Tito.

In the postwar years, the crimes committed by the various Yugoslav groups during World War II were never addressed. After Tito’s death, Serbian nationalists began to push for a “Greater Serbia” that included ethnic Serbian communities in neighboring republics. As one after another of the six Yugoslav republics declared independence, the Serbian controlled Yugoslav army reacted with violence, and the peninsula was ravaged by ethnic cleansing. It mainly affected Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, but the Serbs repeated the same tactics in 1998 when they attempted to suppress cries for autonomy in Kosovo. It was only after weeks of NATO air strikes against Serb military targets that Serbia agreed to a peace proposal.

This century saw the complete dissolution of Yugoslavia with the independence of Montenegro and Kosovo. Serbian President Slobodan Milosevic was tried for war crimes, but died before he could be convicted. Serbia has normalized relations with Kosovo, and both nations are candidates for accession to the EU, with hopes for full membership by 2025.

Kosovo

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 4,203 square miles

• Capital: Pristina

• Language: Albanian and Serbian are the official languages. Bosnian, Turkish, and Romani are also spoken.

100 • Location: Kosovo is a small landlocked country in southeastern Europe, bordering Serbia to the north and east; North Macedonia to the south; Albania to the west; and Montenegro to the northwest.

• Geography: Kosovo is the smallest Balkan country, being roughly the size of the island nation of Jamaica. The country’s borders are primarily defined by mountain ranges; the Sharr Mountains separate Kosovo and North Macedonia in the south and the Kopaonik Mountains create the northeastern boarder with Serbia. Two plains, the Kosovo Plain in the east and the Metohija Plain in the west, make up the interior terrain, drained by two main rivers, the Sitnica River and Beli Drim.

• Population: 1,873,160 (estimate)

• Religion: Muslim 95.6%, Roman Catholic 2.2%, Orthodox 1.5%, other 0.1%, none 0.1%, and unspecified 0.6%

• Time Zone: Kosovo is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of North American Eastern Time. Daylight Saving Time goes from the last Sunday of March to the last Sunday of October.

National Holidays: Kosovo

In addition to the holidays listed below, 01/07 Christmas (Orthodox) Kosovo celebrates a number of national 02/17 Independence Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter, Eid ul-Fitr, and Eid ul-Adha. To 04/09 Constitution Day find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 05/01 International Worker’s Day holidays. 05/09 Europe Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas (Catholic)

Kosovo: A Brief History In the 1st century AD, the Romans took control of the area that contains modern day Kosovo, known then as Dardania, from the Dardani people, a Paleo-Balkan tribe thought to be either Illrian or Thracian. Little is known of the people who came even before the Dardani, though evidence of their existence has been proven due to prehistoric art found during expeditions. After Rome split, Kosovo was under the rule of the Byzantine Empire, exposed to raids from the 4th century until the 9th century, as the Byzantine Empire loses control of the area with the arrival of the Slavs and the region becomes an area for border disputes. In the mid-9th century, the Byzantine lose the once-Dardania to the First Bulgarian Empire, regaining it again over a century later. Centuries pass and the Byzantine Empire slowly collapsed, allowing Serbia to tie Kosovo in as the heart of the Serbian Empire in the 12th century. The Serbian empire establishes its control of Kosovo, building countless Serbian Orthodox sites, such as the notable Decani Monastery.

101 A bare 3oo years later, the Ottomans defeated the Serbia prince Lazar at the epic 1389 Battle of Kosovo, integrating Kosovo into the Empire. This leads to an immigration of Turks and Albanians, who eventually become the majority ethnic group in Kosovo.

It’s not until 1912 that Serbia regained Kosovo during the Balkan Wars. Kosovo saw many battles and hardship with World War I, split between the Central Powers of Bulgaria and Austria-Hungary during the war and then between Serbia and Montenegro after. It wasn’t until 1929, when Kosovo joined Yugoslavia that the region was put back into one piece. The Yugoslav government sought to undermine the majority Kosovar Albanians living in Kosovo, first by implementing a mass Serbian immigration into the area, then banning the right to learn Albanian, before forcing Kosovar Albanians and Muslins to emigrate through land reforms and violence. With the invasion of Yugoslavia in 1941, Kosovo was again split between the invading powers, with inter-ethnic and ideological conflicts frequently breaking out. After the war, the Yugoslav government estimated 8,000 Kosovans died in these conflicts.

In 1974, after decades of tension between Kosovar Albanians and Serbians, Yugoslavia recognizes Kosovo as an autonomous state, giving them the right to self-govern. The Serbian, many of whom saw Kosovo as the heartland of Serbia after the near mythical Battle of Kosovo in 1389, fervently disagree with this decision. Communist politician Slobodan Milosevic uses this outrage and the raising nationalism to come into power as the Yugoslav President in 1990, where he near immediately took away Kosovo’s autonomy and, once more, the ethnic Albanian majority faced cultural suppression. The Kosovar Albanians began a non-violent movement of civil disobedience, with the goal of independence. This brought forth the Republic of Kosovo in 1992, a self-proclaimed independent state, who elected Ibrahim Rugova as its president. The only country to recognize the Republic of Kosovo was Albania and in 1996, the Kosovo Liberation Army takes charge.

The Kosovo Liberation Army’s attacks on the Yugoslav army and the Serbian police escalated into the Kosovo War. Yugoslav and Serbian forces retaliated in multiple Kosovo Albanian massacres, including the Prekaz massacre, which targeted the family of Adem Jashari, a founding member of the Kosovo Liberation Army, and killed 58 people.

Numerous attempts at peace are pushed by international forces, first a ceasefire signed by Yugoslavia 1998 and broken that same year. Then the Rambouillet Accords, drafted at an international conference, calling for Kosovo’s autonomy and the deployment of NATO peacekeepers is denied by Yugoslavia. As the fighting continued and an ethnic cleansing against the Kosovar Albanians forced thousands to flee Kosovo, NATO intervened by bombing Yugoslavia and Serbian targets to force their hand. A peace is reached, and the Yugoslav and Serbian forces withdraw, allowing the UN to implement a transitional administration. The Kosovo War culminated in an estimated 10,317 civilian deaths and 3,218 dead members of the conflicting armed forces. Nine Yugoslav officials, including Milosevic, were indicted for war crimes during the Kosovo War – of whom, two (including Milosevic) died before conviction, one was acquitted and six convicted. Six members of the opposing side, the Kosovo Liberation Army, were indicted, with only one convicted.

102 RESOURCES

Suggested Reading

General Complete Mediterranean Wildlife by Paul Sterry (Field Guide) An illustrated survey of the plants, animals, birds, insects, marine mammals, and other wildlife of the Mediterranean region. May only be available through special order or online, but useful for a nature enthusiast.

The Ancient Mariners: Seafarers and Sea Fighters of the Mediterranean in Ancient Times by Lionel Casson (History) The classic review of the Mediterranean’s seafaring history, with a focus on the Greek and Roman empires. Originally written in 1959, but revised in the 1980’s and 1990’s.

Greece The King Must Die and The Bull From the Sea by Mary Renault (Fiction) Modern retellings of the Greek myth of Theseus and the Minotaur. Recommended by travelers.

The Rise of Athens: The Story of the World’s Greatest Civilization by Anthony Everitt (2017, History) This book traces the origins of modern Athens and goes well beyond it, with plenty of entertaining detail about the figures who made it great, as well as those who contributed to its demise.

Holy Madness of Modern Greeks: An Introduction to the Ways of the Greeks by Theodore Pagiavlas (2016, Social History) The Greeks are often described as “passionate,” but what makes them so? This book offers a detailed examination of the most important aspects of Greek culture, amusing anecdotes about the figures who gave rise to it, and reasoned explanations of the beliefs and behaviors inspired by it all.

Little Infamies by Panos Karnezis (2003, Fiction) These magical and darkly funny stories take place in an unnamed Greek village (likely in the Peloponnesus), whose animal and human inhabitants (the village prostitute, a centaur, a wily doctor, a Homer-reciting parrot) reveal the secrets of their neighbors.

Eleni by Nicola Gage (2010, Biography/History) The moving true story of a Greek mother who dared to arrange an escape for her four children from a communist labor camp in the late 1940s, and paid the ultimate price. Written by her son, a New York Times reporter.

Mythology: Timeless Tales of Gods and Heroes by Edith Hamilton (1942, Mythology) This classic introduction to Greek and Roman mythology is still used as the standard in high schools and colleges throughout the U.S. From the Olympians to the Trojan War, Hamilton presents the myths and adventure stories of the ancient world in a clear and accessible manner.

A Concise History of Greece by Richard Clogg (History) An introductory illustrated , from the late 18th-century national movement to the present.

103 Ancient Greece: Art, Architecture, and History by Marina Belozerskaya and Kenneth Lapatin (Art/ Architecture) A lively guide to the architecture, painting, and sculpture of ancient Greece with color illustrations.

Corelli’s Mandolin by Louis De Bernieres (Fiction) This novel about village life on a Greek island during the Italian occupation in the 1940s explores the difficult choices facing a young woman in love during wartime.

Dinner with Persephone by Patricia Storace (Travel Narrative) An American fluent in Greek, Storace recalls a year of living and traveling there and the complexities, heartbreak, humor, and resilience of a people rooted in their glorious past, yet uncertain of the future.

Eleni by Nicola Gage (Biography/History) The moving and tragic true story of a Greek mother who dared to arrange an escape for her four children from a communist labor camp in the late 1940s.

Greek Mythology by Edith Hamilton (Mythology) The classic introduction to Greek and Roman mythology that is used as the standard in high schools and colleges throughout the U.S.. From the Olympians to the Trojan War, Hamilton presents the myths and adventure stories of the ancient world in a clear and accessible manner.

The Colossus of Maroussi by Henry Miller (Travel Narrative) The soul of Greece circa 1939. Miller captures the spirit and warmth of the resilient Greek people in this tale of a wartime journey from Athens to Crete, , and Delphi with his friend Lawrence Durrell.

The Parthenon by Mary Beard (History) An absorbing tale of the construction of the 2,500-year- old Athenian monument by a Cambridge University classicist.

Albania The Sworn Virgin by Kristopher Dukes (Historical Fiction) When Eleanora’s father dies in the 1910s, she takes on a new role in her village as a “sworn virgin”—an Albanian tradition that let women take over as the head of the household.

The Albanians: A Modern History by Miranda Vickers (History) An historical account that traces the history of the Albanian people from the Ottoman era to the formation of the Albanian Communist Party.

Chronicle in Stone by Ismail Kadare (Literature) A fictionalized account of the author’s own experiences during World War II, this novel follows a sensitive boy struggling to grow up in an occupied town near the Albanian-Greek border. The author is considered one of Albania’s most famous writers.

North Macedonia Alexander the Great: The Story of an Ancient Life by Thomas R. Martin and Christopher W. Blackwell (Biography/History) An in depth analysis that answers the question about what made Alexander “Great.”

104 Blood Ties: Religion, Violence and the Politics of Nationhood in Ottoman Macedonia, 1878-1908 by Ipek K. Yosmaoglu (History) A history which focuses on the final decades of Ottoman rule in the region known today as North Macedonia.

Fire from Heaven by Mary Renault (Novel) An acclaimed historical novel set during the time of Alexander the Great’s early childhood and youth. This novel was the inspiration for Oliver Stone’s film Alexander.

Turkey Birds Without Wings by Louis De Bernieres (2004, Fiction) A sweeping historical drama that weaves together the lives of an Anatolian family, the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, and the rise of Ataturk. Highly recommended.

Fragments of Culture: The Everyday of Modern Turkey by Deniz Kandiyoti and Ayse Saktanber (2002, Sociology) This carefully curated collection of articles by leading scholars from various disciplines offers a detailed and vivid portrait of daily life in contemporary Turkey.

Constantinople: City of the World’s Desire 1453–1924 by Philip Mansel (1995, History) An engaging look at the personalities, fashions, pageantry and politics of this legendary city.

Ataturk: The Biography of the Founder of Modern Turkey by Andrew Mango (1999, Biography) This is the most comprehensive biography of the complex and charismatic leader who brought Turkey into the modern age.

The Bastard of Istanbul by Elif Shafak (2006, Fiction) Nineteen year-old Aysa is chafing to break free of the four headstrong women at the heart of her Istanbul family. But things change when her uncle’s stepdaughter arrives from America. The two young women discover secrets that link their families to the 1915 Armenian genocide. The book caused a sensation in Turkey, where the author was put on trial for “insulting Turkishness.”

Harem: The World Behind the Veil by Alev Lytle Croutier (1991, History/Culture) A fascinating glimpse of harem culture, especially at Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace.

The Janissary Tree by Jason Goodwin (2006, Historical Mystery) Winner of the Edgar Award, this is the first in a series of novels featuring the eunuch detective Yashim. Here, he prowls the alleys, harems, salons and mosques of 1836 Istanbul to solve three cases related to the historical disbanding (and slaughter) of the elite Janissary troops.

The Museum of Innocence (2008), The White Castle (1985), or My Name is Red (1998) by Orhan Pamuk (Historical Fiction) Three moving historical novels by the winner of the 2006 Nobel Prize in Literature. The Museum of Innocence is about a complicated love triangle in 1970s Istanbul; The White Castle tells of a seventeenth-century Italian scholar who becomes enslaved in the service of an astronomer; and My Name is Red describes the events surrounding the murder of a miniaturist during the height of the Ottoman Empire.

105 The Turkish Cookbook by Musa Dagdeviren (2019, Cooking) After being enchanted by , you’ll want to recreate all those delicacies at home. This exhaustive culinary collection by a renowned Turkish chef shows you how.

Serbia With Their Backs To The World: Portraits from Serbia by Åsne Seierstad (Nonfiction) Norwegian journalist Seierstad conducted extensive interviews with ordinary Serbs from across the political and ethnic spectrum—a farmer, a rock star, a priest and more—to create this detailed tapestry of modern Serbian life.

Serbia: The History of an Idea by Stevan K. Pavlowitch (History) A readable history focusing on the nineteenth and twentieth centuries of Serbia.

Kosovo The Hemmingway Book Club of Kosovo by Paula Huntley (2004, Memoir). Paula Huntley and her husband move to Kosovo after the fighting has settled, her husband to help rebuild the Kosovo legal system and Huntley to teach English in a private school. Huntley struggles with connecting with her students until they read Hemingway’s Old Man and the Sea, the first book of their soon- to-be-formed book club dedicated to great American writers.

Elegy for Kosovo: Stories by Ismail Kadare, translated by Peter Constantine (2000, Historical Fiction). Three short stories about the War of Kosovo in 1389, in which the Serbian Empire forces were defeated by the Ottoman army in Kosovo, leading to over 500 years of Turkish Ottoman rule.

Kosovo: War and Revenge by Tim Judah (2000, History). A breakdown of the 20th century war in Kosovo, historically and politically, from the view of British reporter and political analyst, Tim Judah, who witnessed the explosion of violence in the region and its aftereffects.

Suggested Film & Video

Greece Mamma Mia! (2008) and Mamma Mia, Here We Go Again (2018) (Musical Comedy) Yes, there is Meryl Streep and an all-star cast. Yes, there are the bouncy, nostalgic soundtracks based on hits by the 70s supergroup, ABBA. But there are also idyllic Greek islands, and whimsical fantasies about the life you could live there.

Zorba the Greek (1964, Comedy/Drama) This classic still stands the test of time. Anthony Quinn plays the iconic Zorba, a lusty and exuberant musician, who strikes up a friendship with an uptight Englishman (Alan Bates) during a picaresque adventure in Greece.

Troy (2004, Drama) This may not have been 2004’s best film, but it was its highest grossing one, thanks to an all-star cast (Brad Pitt, Peter O’Toole, Brian Cox, Diane Kruger, and Orlando Bloom), sweeping sets, and an epic story based on Homer’s Iliad. It concerns the motivations of the central characters as they reach their destinies during the historic battle between the Trojans, and the various Greek armies at their gates.

106 Shirley Valentine (1989, Comedy) An unappreciated British housewife accepts an invitation to Greece with a friend, and finds the escape she’s been looking for.

My Life in Ruins (2009, Comedy) A romantic comedy about a tour guide (Nia Vardalos) set among the ruins of . Vardalos also wrote and starred in My Big Fat Greek Wedding.

Never on Sunday (1960, Comedy) A classics scholar tries to steer a Greek call girl towards a moral life, but gets turned around himself in this modern take on the Pygmalion myth. Wrtten by and starring director Jules Dassin the film also stars his wife, Melina Mercouri, who became a political activist and Greece’s first female Minister of Culture.

The Guns of Navarone (1961, Action) Follows six Allied and Greek soldiers as they try to disable the two German guns that are preventing the evacuation of British troops from a Greek island in WWII. But the real heavy artillery is the cast—Peck, Niven, and Quinn all won at least one Oscar each during their distinguished careers.

Albania The Forgiveness of Blood (2011, Drama). Medieval mores and modern dreams clash in this tale of teenaged siblings Nik and Rudina. Their lives are upended by Albania’s centuries-old tradition of the blood feud, or Kanun, when their father and uncle kill a neighbor during a land dispute.

Dear Enemy (2006, Drama). Based off the true story of the director’s grandfather who, during World War II and the German occupation of Albania, befriended a German officer while harboring a partisan, a Jewish watchmaker, and an Italian soldier in his basement.

The Delegation (2018, Drama). Based in October 1990, before the fall of communism, a delegation from the Organization for Security and Co-Operation in Europe arrives in Tirana, Albania to judge the communist government for entry as a member into the intergovernmental organization. At the same time, Albania’s government sends an official to release a political prisoner.

North Macedonia Alexander (2004, Action) An epic historical drama based off of the life of Alexander the Great. The film was inspired by Mary Renault’s historical novel Fire from Heaven.

Willow (2019, Drama) This film follows one medieval woman and two modern-day women as they struggle to become mothers. These women face issues of control over their own bodies, tradition, and adoption.

Before the Rain (1994, Drama) This critically acclaimed drama presents three intersecting romantic storylines set in Macedonia and London. When a mysterious incident takes place in the Macedonian mountains, it threatens to start a civil war but brings together a young monk, a London picture editor, and a war photographer.

Turkey Winter Sleep (2014, Drama) A visually stunning film set in the mystical landscapes of Cappadocia, where a former actor runs a hotel and tries to confront his broken relationships.

107 The Water Diviner (2014, Drama) Directed by Russell Crowe (who also stars), this film follows an Australian man who travels to Turkey to find his three missing sons after the Battle of Gallipoli.

Midnight Express (1978, Drama) Based on the real experiences of an American tourist who was imprisoned in Turkey for trying to smuggle hashish in the 1970s. With its gripping prison scenes and harsh portrayals of the Turkish police, the film was (and still is) controversial and unpopular in Turkey.

Topkapi (1964, Comedy/Thriller) A star-studded, international cast brings panache to this heist story about a group of thieves in Istanbul who plan to rob a priceless bejeweled dagger from the titular palace-museum. The witty, breezy style set the stage for future comic from The Pink Panther to Ocean’s Eleven and beyond.

Bliss (2007, Drama) A gorgeous and surprising look at a difficult subject. When a young woman in an extremely traditional village is suspected of sexual relations outside of marriage, one of her distant cousins is recruited to commit an “honor killing,” but ends up trying to protect his potential victim instead.

Crossing the Bridge: The Sound of Istanbul (2005, Documentary) A Turkish documentary about the exhilarating, musical melting pot of Istanbul.

A Touch of Spice (2003, Comedy/Drama). A sentimental favorite in Turkey, this heartwarming story follows a Greek boy growing up in Istanbul as he learns about food and life from his grandfather.

Uzak (Distant) (2002, Drama) Some consider this Istanbul classic to be one of the best Turkish films ever made. It concerns a country bumpkin who becomes the unwelcome guest of his city photographer cousin.

Kedi (2016, Documentary) A heartwarming documentary that follows some of Istanbul’s kedi— street cats that are beloved and cared for by multiple humans as community pets. These friendly felines are an institution in Istanbul, and are pretty much given free reign to roam wherever they want—they’ve been known to show up at fashion shows, the orchestra, and even inside places of worship.

Serbia Fuse (2003, Comedy) Two years after the Bosnian civil war, a small town that is plagued by corruption, prostitution, and organized crime must quickly organize a democracy when it’s announced that U.S. President Bill Clinton will be paying a visit.

Circles (2013, Drama) Inspired by the true story of a Bosnian-Serb soldier who was murdered protecting a Muslim civilian from three fellow soldiers during the Bosnian War, this film delves into the deep repercussions of this tragic act through three parallel perspectives. Nebojša, who witnessed the death of his best friend, overcomes his guilty conscience; Haris risks everything in order to return the favor to the person who saved his life; and the murderer’s son meets the fallen hero’s father.

108 Kosovo The Marriage (2017, Drama). With their wedding two weeks away, young couple Bekim and Anita are moving on and looking towards the future. The past isn’t done with them, however, as Anita anxiously awaits news on if her parents survived the Kosovan war and Bekim’s childhood friend, Nol, a now famous musician in France, shows up at their doorstep. A story of love and heartbreak,The Marriage addresses the aftereffects of war and the struggles of falling in love.

Shok (2015, War/Drama). Based on true events during the 1990s Kosovan War, this short film is about two young boys in Serbian occupied Kosovo, Petrit and his bestfriend, Oki. The boys’ friendship is testing as they experience violence and the horrors of war in an increasingly divided country.

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109 VACCINATIONS NOW REQUIRED FOR ALL TRAVELERS, SHIP CREW, TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS, AND COACH DRIVERS Plus, updated Health & Safety Protocols for our Land Tours

The health and safety of our travelers is always our #1 priority, and we understand travelers are concerned about exploring the world in light of the unprecedented crisis we are currently facing. To ensure your safety and give you peace of mind, we have worked with our regional team and listened to government guidance and feedback from our travelers to create these health and safety protocols for our trips. As we continue to make changes, we will keep our website updated with the latest information.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS • All travelers, ship crew, and Trip Experience AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY Leaders will have their temperature checked PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL SHIP every time they return to the ship using a non- ADVENTURES contact infrared temperature scanner. • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against • All meals are served by the dining staff— COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure buffets are no longer available. and provide proof of vaccination upon VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS AND boarding the ship. If you are unable to UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY PROTOCOLS provide proof of vaccination upon arrival at FOR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURES ON LAND your destination, you will have to return • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against home at your own expense. COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure. If To meet this requirement, please bring your you are unable to provide proof of vaccination original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card upon arrival at your destination, you will with you on your trip. The white card must have to return home at your own expense. display your name, type of vaccine, and the To meet this requirement, please bring your date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card with suggest taking a picture of this card to keep for you on your trip. The white card must display your records as a backup. your name, type of vaccine, and the date(s) • All local Trip Experience Leaders, the vaccine was administered. We also suggest fully ship staff, and crew will be taking a picture of this card to keep for your vaccinated against COVID-19. records as a backup. fully • All coach drivers will be • All local Trip Experience Leaders will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. vaccinated against COVID-19. • All public areas will be sanitized nightly and • All coach drivers will be fully vaccinated all ships are equipped with High Efficiency against COVID-19. Particulate Air (HEPA) filters.

Help us ensure travelers’ safety and health while on our trips. Please follow best health and hygiene practices to prevent the spread of illness—wash your hands regularly and cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing. Together, we can create a safer travel experience for everyone.

Learn more at www.oattravel.com/covid-update

110 Notes

111 Notes

112 Notes

113 Notes

114

A

I

R

A G L U B A I B ROM. R e E b S ica u

c Miles n

To/From U.S. Internal flight Land route Train route a D

Nis Skopje

Kova tina

KOS. š

MACEDONIA 050 MACEDONIA

Sremski Karlovci

Skopje Pri

SERBIA ALB. A

MONT.

I KOSOVO Belgrade Prizren I A

R Novi Sad A N

A Sea B HERZ. L

BOSN. & MONT. POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS G Adriatic A L U B Thessaloniki Vergina SERBIA Meteora Mt. Olympus Mt.

o

v Skopje

o

Matka Canyon s t e

M MACEDONIA GREECE Vikos Gorge (Optional tour) Ohrid L. Ohrid Vitsa Zagoria KOSOVO

A Ioannina Dhoksat N I Gjirokaster A Butrint A L B

E Y U R K Tirana T O

R Ankara Sea (Optional tour) (Optional G CRETE e a Black E Dajti Mountain S Istanbul

N a n Heraklion E g e T A e

N TURKEY O M Thessaloniki ea Sea n S Chania egea Athens A a Rethymno BULGARIA Thessaloniki GREECE Se E Adriatic an EC PRE-TRIP EXTENSIONS Ioni GRE

115 YOUR TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADER

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