YOUR O.A.T. ADVENTURE TRAVEL PLANNING GUIDE®

Enhanced! Northern , & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great

2021

Small Groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! (average of 13) Overseas Adventure Travel ® The Leader in Personalized Small Group Adventures on the Road Less Traveled 1 Dear Traveler,

At last, the world is opening up again for curious travel lovers like you and me. And the O.A.T. Enhanced! Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great itinerary you’ve expressed interest in will be a wonderful way to resume the discoveries that bring us so much joy. You might soon be enjoying standout moments like these:

As I explored the monasteries of Meteora, I stood in awe atop pinnacles perched in a boundless sky. I later learned that the Greek word meteora translates to “suspended in the air,” and that’s exactly how I felt as I stood before nature’s grandeur and the unfathomable feats of mankind. For centuries, monks and nuns have found quiet solitude within these monasteries that are seemingly built into the sandstone cliffs. You’ll also get an intimate view into two of these historic sanctuaries alongside a local guide.

Could there be any place more distinct in Europe than Albania? You’ll see for yourself when you get a firsthand look into the lives of locals living in the small Albanian village of Dhoksat. First, you’ll interact with the villagers and help them with their daily tasks before sharing a Home-Hosted with a local family. While savoring the fresh ingredients of the region, you’ll discuss daily life in the Albanian countryside with your hosts.

The way we see it, you’ve come a long way to experience the true culture—not some fairytale version of it. So we keep our groups small, with only 8-16 travelers (average 13) to ensure that your encounters with local people are as intimate and authentic as possible. It’s also why your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader will be a resident “insider” who can show you the culture as only a local can.

To ensure that your adventure is truly unique, put your own personal stamp on it. You can arrive early and stay later, add a pre- or post-trip extension, spend time in a Stopover city, or combine two or more trips. Plus, your itinerary offers ample free time so you can pursue your own interests.

So until the day comes when you are off to enjoy your Enhanced! Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great adventure, I hope you will relish the fun and anticipation that this O.A.T. Adventure Travel Planning Guide® will inspire. Should you have further questions, feel free to call our Regional Adventure Counselors at 1-800-955-1925.

Love and peace,

Harriet R. Lewis Vice Chairman, Overseas Adventure Travel

P.S. For more inspiration, you can watch videos and slideshows from travelers like you at www.oattravel. com/traveler-moments. You can also share some of your own favorite moments by uploading your travel videos and slideshows directly onto the trip-specific pages of our website.

USA Today “Best Tours” 10Best Readers’ Presented by Choice Awards Solo Traveler

2 CONTENTS

A Letter from Harriet Lewis ...... 2 The O.A.T. Difference...... 4 The Grand Circle Foundation...... 6 The Leader in Solo Travel ...... 7

NORTHERN GREECE, ALBANIA & ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: MACEDONIA: ANCIENT LANDS OF CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE ALEXANDER THE GREAT Culture & Points to Know ...... 68 Your Adventure at a Glance: Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Where You’re Going, What it Costs, Shipping & More ...... 72 and What’s Included ...... 8 Your Detailed Day-To-Day Itinerary ...... 9 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY Optional Tours ...... 30 Greece...... 74 Pre-Trip Extension ...... 31 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 74 Post-Trip Extension ...... 39 Historical Overview of Greece ...... 74 Dates & Prices ...... 45 Albania ...... 76 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 76 ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION Albania: A Brief History ...... 76 Travel Documents & Entry Requirements. . . 46 ...... 77 No Visas Required ...... 46 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 77 Rigors, Vaccines & General Health ...... 48 Historical Overview of North Macedonia . . . 78 Vaccines Required ...... 49 ...... 79 Money Matters: Local Currency & Tipping Guidelines...... 52 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 79 Serbia: A Brief History ...... Tipping Guidelines...... 55 80 Air, Optional Tours & Staying in Touch ..... 56 RESOURCES Optional Tours ...... 56 Suggested Reading ...... 82 Communicating with Home from Abroad . . 57 Suggested Film & Video ...... 84 Packing: What to Bring & Luggage Limits . . . 59 Suggested Packing Lists ...... 61 Electricity Abroad ...... 63 Climate & Average Temperatures ...... 65

O.A.T. Health & Safety Measures...... 87 Notes...... 88 Map ...... 91

3 EXPERIENCE THE O.A.T. DIFFERENCE in the

This adventure not only showcases iconic sights, but takes you beyond them to experience the culture through unique activities, engagement with the natural world, and authentic encounters with local people. Since our founding in 1978, O.A.T. has become America’s leader in personalized small group journeys on the road less traveled.

SMALL GROUPS: 8-16 TRAVELERS LOCAL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION (AVERAGE OF 13)—GUARANTEED To see the world like the locals, you should The world feels more intimate and engaging travel like one. Our small group size allows when your experience of it is also personal us to take the roads and waterways that are and genuine. That’s why our groups never less traveled, and we often follow them using exceed 16 travelers. This gives you access to the same unique modes of transportation people and places larger groups simply can’t that the locals use—be it a canoe, a camel or a reach. More authentic interactions. Deeper vintage cab. bonds with your travel mates. Personal service from your Trip Experience Leader. Smoother UNIQUE LODGINGS transitions. And a far more satisfying Our lodgings reflect the local character, experience than any traditional tour offers. from smaller family-run hotels and historic manors to comfy inns. Occasionally, larger THE BEST TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS hotels closer to city centers are used. Wherever Your English-speaking, O.A.T. Trip Experience you stay, you’re assured fine comfort and Leader is a resident of the region you are visiting, hospitality. so you will get a true insider’s perspective that brings each place alive—the stories, , OUR WORLDWIDE OFFICES customs, hidden treasures and more. With 36 regional offices around the world, we are perfectly poised to leverage our local AUTHENTIC CULTURAL CONNECTIONS relationships to deliver an excellent experience Engage with local people through visits to and value. During this trip, you’ll be supported farms, factories, markets, and artisans’ studios; by our team in Greece. school visits; Home-Hosted ; and more.

Uncover ancient history at the ruins of Butrint in Albania Delve into daily life during a Home-Hosted

4 THE PILLARS OF DISCOVERY En riching. Inspiring. Unforgettable. These features form the foundation of your Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia adventure.

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION (GCF) VISIT A DAY IN THE LIFE GCF was established in 1992 to help change Do you ever wonder, “What would it be like people’s lives in the world where we live, to live here?” when you visit new lands? Let’s work, and travel. To date, we have pledged or find out during your O.A.T. A Day in the Life, an donated $200 million worldwide. exclusive, immersive experience that places you in the heart of a community where you’ll By investing in the places we explore—including meet various people where they live, work, local schools, cooperatives, or arts centers—we and play; visit the neighborhood school; lend a hope to give locals the skills and confidence they hand with daily chores; and break with need to become leaders of their generation and our hosts. preserve their heritage for many years to come. We’re proud to play a part in preserving precious Perhaps you’ll join a local resident or locales like the Bryggen waterfront district of community leader for a guided walk through Bergen, a living example of the glory days of the the town, visit a market, or enjoy a unique Hanseatic League, and supporting villages like opportunity to meet teachers and students at Harmi in Estonia, whose once-struggling school a local school if school is in session. is now a center of community life. HOME-HOSTED EXPERIENCES CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS Stories shared. Differences solved. Taste buds Every culture has its joys and achievements, engaged. Good will extended. It’s amazing the and we celebrate them all. But every place also things that can happen across a table, has its challenges, and to gloss over them would so we’ll break into groups of 4-5 to join a local not do justice to those whose stories need to be family in their home for a snack or a meal. told—nor to you, as a traveler who deserves more This is a rare opportunity to witness family than a sugar-coated version of things. So our Trip life, learn local customs, and taste some Experience Leaders will lead frank discussions on home-cooked fare. controversial issues, and introduce you to people On this adventure, we’ll learn more about whose stories will expand your understanding. the rich culture of Dhoksat when we share a For example, we’ll speak to an expert in meal with a local family in their home. We’ll Russia about free speech and the popularity get an intimate view into everyday village of President Vladimir Putin; in Zambia, we’ll life and savor a homecooked meal of regional have a candid conversation with a park ranger specialties. in Kafue National Park on trophy hunting, a controversial sport which generates around $200 million in annual revenue across Africa; and we’ll meet a local Tangier woman to discuss women’s roles and the challenges they face in contemporary Moroccan society.

5 GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION Changing people’s lives, one village, one school, one person at a time

ON THIS ADVENTURE … Dear Traveler, Since our inception in 1992, the Grand Circle In 1992 we established Grand Circle Foundation has pledged or donated more Foundation, an entity of the Lewis Family than $200 million to projects around the Foundation, as a means to give back to world. Here are just a few of the ways we have the world that had already given us so partnered with the communities on this trip.. much. We’ve pledged or donated more Albania Earthquake Relief than $200 million worldwide to support Total Donations: $20,000 the education of young people and the In 2019, Albania was rocked by a 6.4 magnitude preservation of international treasures earthquake, killing 51 people, and leaving thousands and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and with homes destroyed and uninhabitable. GCF de- the conservation of natural resources for cided that the best way to help was providing wood future generations. stoves, as the winter had arrived and these families had no heat in their tents, and no means to cook. Of , none of this would be possible 35 wood stoves were purchased, including the acces- without your help. A portion of the sories that come with them, and delivered to these proceeds of every adventure is donated to people in their tents. In total, 35 families (almost 175 Grand Circle Foundation—so just as your people) were provided heat for the winter. The next life will be enriched by the discoveries project will be to rebuild one of the buildings that will you’ll make on your journey, you’ll also be needed the most by the local community. help to enrich the lives of the people you’ll meet along the way. Thank you Kivotos Ark of the World Total Donations: $7,500 for traveling with us, and for helping to Kivotos is a youth center, soup kitchen, and shel- change people’s lives. ter that cares for 150 children, 7 days per week. Love and peace, Kivotos is dedicated to providing a safe place for children from hundreds of ethnic backgrounds, religions, languages, and cultures. GCF’s support Harriet R. Lewis Chair, was used to provide necessities for the shelter in- Grand Circle Foundation cluding clothes, shoes, pencils, notebooks, books, and other essentials.

Naum Ohridski School Total Donations: $13,023 This small school of only 26 students in the Elshani village of Macedonia was in disrepair when Grand Circle first started visiting in 2016. The roof leaked and their was only one toilet for all the students. With the generous help of O.A.T travelers, GCF was able to construct 2 new toilets and repair the roof.

www.grandcirclefoundation.org

6 THE LEADER IN SOLO TRAVEL in the Balkans—and Around the World

ON THIS ADVENTURE … FREE Single Supplements: We don’t charge The leader in solo-friendly a single supplement on this adventure and travel for Americans—by optional trip extensions—a savings of $675 per the numbers person compared to other travel companies. But single spaces fill quickly, so early reservations are advised. More than 50,000 solo travelers joined us in the past two years—on One of our most popular trips for solo their own or with a friend or relative travelers. More than 448 solo travelers joined us on this adventure in the past two years— either independently or sharing a room with a 15,000 single spaces with a mother, daughter, sister, or friend. FREE or low-cost Single Supplement in 2021—a 76% increase from 2019 High ratings: More than 92% of these solo travelers rated their adventure excellent. More than 90% of solo women On average, half of your group will also be travelers rated their adventure traveling independently, so it’s easy to forge excellent special bonds as you experience unforgettable moments together. 51 exclusive women’s departures You’ll be in good hands, thanks to your featured on 25 of our most popular dedicated local Trip Experience Leader (a adventures—10 of which are single- resident of the Balkans), and the expertise of only departures our regional office team in Greece.

Increased Single Space: In 2021, we have 73% more single spaces than in 2019, with up to 8 single spaces per departure. See available FREE single space at www.oattravel.com/gre2021.

Exclusive Women’s Departures: We are thrilled to offer 1 women-only departure of Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great: October 26, 2021. Space is limited so don’t delay. Join our traveling sisterhood today!

Solo doesn’t mean “alone.” Three out of eight O.A.T. travelers join our small groups as solos, so you will be in good company.

7 Lower Prices than last year—a value of up to $1000 per couple Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great Small Group Adventure Greece: Thessaloniki, Meteora, Zagoria | Albania: Gjirokaster, Tirana | Macedonia: , Skopje

Countries: 3 | Cities: 6

Small groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! It’s Included (average of 13) • International airfare, airport transfers, • Explore in a small group of 8-16 government taxes, fees, and airline fuel travelers (average group size of 13) $ surcharges unless you choose to make 18 days from 4195 Services of a local O.A.T. Trip your own air arrangements • Includes international airfare Experience Leader $234 All land transportation Travel from only a day • • Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and • Accommodations for 16 nights luggage porters 17 days from $3095 • 36 meals—16 , 10 , • 5% Frequent Traveler Credit Without international airfare and 10 dinners (including 1 Home- toward your next adventure—an Hosted Lunch) average of $324 FREE Single Supplement • 24 small group activities

Maximize Your To get a richer view of the Included Features on this adventure, Discoveries & Value watch our Trip Itinerary video at www.oattravel.com/gre2021 Optional extensions : Greece: & 6 nights pre-trip from $1995 Travel from only $333 per night Serbia: & Belgrade 6 nights post-trip from $1995 Travel from only $333 per night

Fishing boats on , Ohrid, Macedonia

Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great

8 Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great

YOUR DETAILED ITINERARY

BEGIN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL PRE-TRIP EXTENSION 6 nights in : Athens & the Isle of Crete

Day 1 Depart for Athens, Greece Day 6 Overland to Rethymno • Home-Hosted Lunch • Heraklion Day 2 Arrive Athens, Greece Day 7 Heraklion • Optional Spinalonga: Day 3 Athens • The Acropolis • & The Leper Colony tour Square Day 8 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece • Day 4 Athens • Fly to Chania Begin main trip Day 5 Chania

Day 1 Depart for Thessaloniki, Greece rooms include air-conditioning, wireless Internet access, satellite TV, and private bath Depart for your overnight flight to with hair dryer. Thessaloniki, Greece. Dinner: On your own. Ask your Trip Day 2 Arrive Thessaloniki, Greece Experience Leader where you can find the best — bread with chicken or • Destination: Thessaloniki pork, , tomatoes, and fried • Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace potatoes—or , an -based dish Hotel or similar with tomatoes, minced meat, and topped with a Afternoon/Evening: Upon arrival in white cream sauce. Thessaloniki, an O.A.T. representative will meet Evening: You have the freedom to spend your you at the airport. You’ll transfer about 30 first evening as you wish. Perhaps you’ll retire minutes by coach to our hotel, and meet your to your room to rest up before tomorrow’s Trip Experience Leader and fellow travelers, discoveries, or grab a drink with fellow including those who took our optional pre-trip travelers at the hotel to discuss what you’re extension to Ancient Greece: Athens & the Isle looking forward to most on your upcoming of Crete. Depending on where we stay, our adventure. hotel may feature onsite amenities including a restaurant, bar, and swimming pool. Typical

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

9 Freedom To Explore: During your three days in you’ll behold the thundering waters of the Thessaloniki, you have the freedom to explore Epineas waterfall and the black pines of the on your own during your free time. Below are surrounding forest. Plus, experience the a few recommended options for independent footprint of World War II as you view Agios explorations: Dionysios Monastery, which was destroyed by German troops. Then, as your hike winds • Sample locally produced oil and to an end, you’ll discover the cave of Agios at the Olicatessen: is boasted as the Dionisios, where the saint is said to have lived “gold of Greece,” while olives have earned as a hermit. The hike in total will take up to 6 their spot as “caviar of the Mediterranean.” hours to complete. Learn about the most important varieties of these specialties, and even sample these • How to get there: Transfer from hotel delicacies during a seminar and tasting. While included in tour price. here, you’ll not only learn the basics of olive • Hours: 9am-5pm, Monday-Friday. oil production and tasting, but you’ll also • Cost: About $195 USD. learn how to select quality olive oil from the shelves of a store. Your seminar and tasting Day 3 Explore Thessaloniki will take place in one of the city’s oldest • Destination: Thessaloniki neighborhoods at a modern-day grocery store • Included Meals: , Dinner that sells a wide range of produce. • Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. Hotel or similar • Hours: 9am-5pm Monday, Wednesday & Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at Saturday; 9am-9pm Tuesday, Thursday & 7am, with local and American options available. Friday. • Cost: About $6 USD. Morning: Around 9am, we’ll gather at the hotel for a 45-minute Welcome Briefing with your • Find your center during waterfront yoga: Trip Experience Leader. During this briefing, With green spaces, art and architecture we’ll introduce ourselves and review our displays, and more, Thessaloniki’s waterfront itinerary in more detail (including any changes has become an icon of recreation and leisure. that may need to occur). Our Trip Experience Sign up for yoga along the waterfront for a Leader will also discuss logistics, safety and calming and introspective way to take in the emergency procedures, and answer any sights and sounds of this seaside strip. questions we may have. • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi ride. Then around 10am, we’ll set out to explore • Hours: Varies by class schedule. Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city • Cost: About $45 USD. and the capital of the northern Greek region of Macedonia (not to be confused with the • Hike : Follow in the foot- neighboring Republic of Macedonia). First, steps of the twelve Olympian gods as you we’ll board a bus and drive about 20 minutes to walk the hiking paths surrounding Mount visit historic Ano Poli (Upper Town), the only Olympus. You’ll follow the Prionia trail, and section of the city that managed to escape the hike through the Epineas Gorge. The trail devastating Great Thessaloniki Fire of 1917. is made up of several wooden bridges that We’ll wander through Ano Poli to admire the pass over the Epineas stream. On your hike, Byzantine churches, traditional pastel-painted

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

10 homes, and restaurants that cater to the locals. wish. Perhaps you’ll visit a local bar and enjoy Then around 11:15am, we’ll board our bus and the nightlife of Thessaloniki, or relax in the drive about 15 minutes to the the Museum of hotel lounge and recount today’s discoveries Byzantine Culture. The museum houses more with fellow travelers. than 3,000 Byzantine objects, from mosaics and tomb paintings to jewelry and glassware. Day 4 Thessaloniki • Controversial Topic: Alongside each display, you’ll find explanations Greece’s refugee crisis with Nicholas of daily life from the early-Christian to Connolly Rangos • Mount Olympus • Dion late-Byzantine eras. During our hour-long visit, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of • Destination: Thessaloniki these time periods. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace Around 12:30pm, we’ll make a brief drive to the Hotel or similar city center. We’ll spend some time exploring two of Thessaloniki’s bustling traditional Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries markets—the city’s main street market, feature the Controversial Topic of the Modiano; and Kapani, a 200-year-old market challenges refugees are facing in Greece with perched on a hilltop, with local shops and Nicholas Connolly Rangos, who works at a . Following our discoveries around 1pm, pro-refugee non-governmental organization you’ll have free time until dinner. (NGO). This conversation will reveal Greece’s role in Europe’s refugee crisis, and how local Lunch: On your own around 1pm in the vicinity attitudes toward refugees are changing as of the markets of Modiano and Kapani. Perhaps the crisis wears on. Read more about this you’ll peruse the food stalls at the markets, conversation below. keeping your eye out for fresh produce, or get a taste of some of the street food, including Breakfast: Served at the hotel from 7am-8am kolouri, a Greek variation on what we know with Greek and American options available. as bagels. Morning: Around 8am, we’ll board a bus bound Afternoon: Free for your own for the Solidarity Center, about 15 minutes discoveries—perhaps you’ll take a stroll along away. The center is run by Solidarity Now, a the city’s famous waterfront, or if you left some local non-governmental organization dedicated room after lunch, perhaps you’ll do an olive oil to supporting refugees, minorities, and other seminar at the Olicatessen, where you sample vulnerable populations in Greece. Upon arrival, this regional specialty and learn more about we’ll be met by Nicholas Connolly Rangos, a the production process. We’ll reconvene at Project Coordinator for Solidarity Now, with the hotel around 6:15pm to make a brief walk whom we’ll be discussing this morning’s to dinner. Controversial Topic: the refugee crisis in Greece. Since 2014, at least 80,000 documented Dinner: Tonight, we’ll have a Welcome Drink refugees, primarily from war-torn Syria and and Welcome Dinner of regional specialties at a Afghanistan, have arrived in Greece. At first, local restaurant around 6:30pm. were welcoming, providing food, jobs, and clothing to the asylum seekers. However, Evening: Around 8:30pm, we’ll depart the as the crisis rages on with no end in sight, local restaurant and walk back to the hotel. You have attitudes toward refugees have soured. the remainder of the evening to spend as you

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

11 Nicholas first learned of the refugee crisis At 15%, the unemployment rate in Greece in late 2015, and like so many Greeks at the is one of the highest in Europe, and locals time, he felt compelled to help. His support resent the idea that refugees may be taking was monetary at first, until he visited a jobs (and government-funded services) away refugee camp—most of which are packed with from citizens. In a 2018 poll, 74% of Greeks three-to-five times more people than they are said refugees were an economic burden. designed to hold, and are plagued by violence They also worry that the proliferation of and poverty. Upon witnessing the deplorable refugee camps—especially on the popular conditions, Nicholas realized that he needed Aegean islands—will damage Greece’s $22 to do more. He started by volunteering before billion-dollar-a-year tourism industry. eventually accepting a full-time position with As a result of these fears, Greeks elected the Solidarity Now. In his current role, he helps leader of the right-wing New Democracy refugees access vital support services and is party, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, as prime minister keenly aware of their plight. However, as a in 2019, encouraged by his promises to crack Greek citizen, he also has first-hand knowledge down on migration. Since his election, the of the local attitudes toward the crisis. prime minister has cut refugees’ access to The biggest surge of refugees came in 2015, at public healthcare, restricted access to schools, the height of the Greek financial crisis, when and painted them as national security threats. the country had just defaulted on nearly $2 Emboldened by these policies, landlords, billion worth of debt and was struggling to lenders, and employers reportedly regularly support its own citizens. Around the same discriminate against refugees: two-thirds of time, the decreed that anyone rental applications are denied, as are half of all seeking asylum in Europe would be required to credit applications, and half of all employed remain in their EU country of entry until their refugees have reported abuse at work. applications are processed. This ordeal can This complex issue will require time and ample sometimes take years, leaving refugees stuck in discussion to unravel. Nicholas will share his a nightmarish limbo: unable to continue on to insights for about 15 minutes, and then we’ll wealthier nations like and Germany and have approximately 45 minutes to ask the unable to go home. As a result, many refugees questions we are sure to have. no longer view Greece as their gateway to Europe, but as their final destination. Following our conversation around 9:30am, we’ll set off by coach for a 1.5-hour drive to In recent years, several NGOs like Solidarity Mount Olympus, mythical home of the ancient Now have sprung up to help refugees integrate Greek gods. Alongside a local guide, we’ll enjoy into society by providing legal and employment a hike near the foot of Mount Olympus at the counseling, healthcare, and even cash site of Dion, the sacred city of the Macedonians, assistance. And the EU has allocated hundreds and the location of the Olympian Games that of millions of euros to help Greece manage the were held in honor of Zeus and the Muses. financial burden. But despite these efforts to It was here that Alexander the Great made ensure a smooth transition, prejudice against sacrifices to the gods before setting off to refugees is mounting. conquer the ancient world. After taking in the natural beauty of our surroundings for about 1.5

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

12 hours, we’ll meet our coach and drive about 20 Manolis Andronikos, the sacred site contains minutes to the village of Litohoro, where we’ll the fourth-century BC tombs of King Philip pause for lunch. II—father of Alexander the Great—and other ancient royals, along with numerous items of Lunch: At a local restaurant in Litohoro around daily life from the Macedonian era, housed in 1pm featuring local specialties. an underground museum. We’ll explore here Afternoon: We’ll depart the restaurant by coach for about 1.5 hours before we board our coach around 2:45pm, returning to Thessaloniki by and drive about an hour to a local winery. Upon about 4:15pm, and for the rest of the afternoon arrival around 12:30pm, you’ll have some time you may explore on your own. Perhaps you’ll to get acquainted with your surroundings and take a scenic cruise on a pirate ship around the enjoy the scenic vistas. Thermaic Gulf, or visit the churches of Saint Lunch: At the winery around 1:15pm featuring Dimitrios and Saint Sophia. regional specialties. Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip Afternoon: Around 3pm, we’ll continue our Experience Leader for local restaurant drive to Meteora, a UNESCO World Heritage recommendations. Perhaps you’ll seek out the Site known for its unique geology. Upon world-renowned , which typically includes arrival around 6pm, we’ll check in to our roasted meat, and wrapped in a hotel in Meteora, which will be our home pita with special sauce, or —minced base for the next two nights. Depending on meat layered with , sauce, and where we stay, our hotel may feature on-site béchamel sauce. amenities including a terrace, sun deck, and Evening: You have the freedom to spend the bar. Typical rooms include wireless Internet, rest of your evening as you wish. You may stroll air-conditioning, satellite TV, minibar, along the waterfront, or choose to retire to your refrigerator, and private bath with hair dryer. room and relax in preparation for tomorrow’s You’ll have about 45 minutes to relax before discoveries. we drive about 10 minutes to a local restaurant around 6:45pm.

Day 5 Thessaloniki • Royal Tombs of Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant Vergina • Meteora featuring a live bouzouki musical performance. • Destination: Meteora Traditionally used for dancing and • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner entertainment at social gatherings, the bouzouki has become one of the most popular • Accommodations: Doupiani House or similar instruments of Greece, and this instrument Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am is also played in a variety of musical genres with Greek and American options available. around the world, including bluegrass, jazz, rock, and folk. Morning: We begin our journey to Meteora by coach this morning. Departing around 8:30am, we’ll drive about 1.5 hours before Evening: You have the freedom to spend the stopping at the village of Vergina, home to rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps Aigai, the ancient capital of the Macedonian you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in kings. Discovered beneath a man-made hill the lounge. almost 40 years ago by Greek archaeologist

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

13 Freedom To Explore: During your two days open as it can be closed due to work being in Meteora, you have the freedom to explore done. There are walkways constructed to on your own during your free time. Below are allow easy navigation within the cave. a few recommended options for independent • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi explorations: ride, about $30 USD one way. • Immerse yourself in all things Greece at the • Hours: By appointment only. Hellenic Culture Museum: From ancient • Cost: About $4 USD. books, school supplies, and maps to mytho- • Visit the Natural History Museum: Learn logical paintings, archival photographs, and about the mammals and birds of the area more, let this private collection illuminate in the museum’s 300 exhibits, including the culture, language, and . fascinating discoveries about the unique You can explore three exhibition rooms: the dangers they face in their current ecosystems. Old School Room, Hall Aesop, and the Hall Through dioramas mimicking the exact about Meteora. Take a step into Greece’s past environment they inhabit, you can get a in the Old School Room, where old wooden precise look into the lives of these creatures. desks, vintage maps, and a blackboard are Plus, enjoy a fascinating exhibit dedicated displayed. Here, you can try your hand at to the growth and development phases of writing either on a slate board or using a pen, mushrooms. ink, and blotting paper. Or, delve into the • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi mythical past of Greece in the Hall Aesop, ride, about $15 USD one way. and more contemporary history in the Hall • Hours: 9am-5pm Monday-Friday; and about Meteora. 10am-6pm Saturday & Sunday. • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi • Cost: About $6 USD. ride, about $20 USD one way. • Hours: 9am-3pm Monday-Friday; and Day 6 Explore Monasteries of Meteora • 11am-5pm Saturday-Sunday. Home-Hosted Dinner • Cost: About $6 USD. • Destination: Meteora • Discover The Cave of Theopetra: Step into • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner ancient history at this archaeological site, • Accommodations: Doupiani House or similar first excavated in 1987. Within the cave walls Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: This evening we’ll are records of our early human ancestors, join a local family for a Home-Hosted Dinner. from Neanderthal to modern human, and As you dine on traditional, homemade dishes, from hunter-gatherers to farmers after you’ll have the opportunity to ask your hosts the end of the last Ice Age. The first human about Greek customs, culture, and lifestyles. To occupation of the cave has been dated back to facilitate more intimate conversation, you’ll be almost 130,000 years ago. Our regional office broken into smaller groups of no more than 5 suggests asking ahead of time if the cave is travelers for this experience. Read more about this activity below.

Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am with Greek and American options available.

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14 Morning: We’ll set off around 8:45am and drive ensure an intimate experience, you’ll be broken about 15 minutes to witness the towering rock into even smaller groups of no more than 5 formations of the region, on top of which are travelers for this special meal. built the famous monasteries of Meteora, some Dinner: We’ll arrive at our family’s home of which date back to the early 14th century. around 6:45pm and make our introductions. The word meteora actually means “suspended Our hosts hail from a variety of different in the air,” and these astonishing retreats are backgrounds, from teachers and tradespeople, indeed perched atop pinnacles that rise about to hospitality professionals, and homemakers. 1,000 feet from the valley floor. For centuries, They’ll offer unique insights into what it’s like the monasteries served as Christian redoubts to live in the shadows of Meteora’s mighty while the Ottoman Turks ruled Greece. In the monasteries, while sharing stories that company of a local guide this morning, we’ll highlight local customs. You’ll likely be joined visit two of these historic structures, which will by a second generation of family members as be dependent on local restrictions at the time. well—either children or grandparents—who Around 12:45pm, we’ll board our bus and drive will provide their on perspectives on life to Kalambaka. in Greece. Lunch: On your own in Kalambaka Town As you delight in spirited conversations about around 1pm—ask your Trip Experience Leader Greek culture and lifestyles, you’ll also indulge for local restaurant recommendations. Perhaps in a hearty, multi-course meal prepared you’ll track down the area’s best Greek ; by your hosts. You might have a chance to while every restaurant has their own spin on it, try topped with olives and the country’s famous staple will usually include cheese, or scoop up (sesame spread) or a delightful mix of fresh vegetables, feta traramasalata ( dip) with bread. and cheese, and olives. Or, seek out , a lamb are popular main course options. And be pastry filled with spinach, cheese (typically feta sure to save room for a sweet finish. cheese), and herbs. Evening: Our visit with the local family Afternoon: You may enjoy some time on your concludes around 8:15pm, at which time own after lunch. Then around 2:45pm, we’ll the taxis will be called to transport us back visit a nearby icon-painting workshop. Here, to our hotel. Upon arrival around 8:30pm, our small group will meet with the artists who the remainder of the evening is on your will share the sacred traditions surrounding own—ask your Trip Experience Leader for their art. This is a great chance to ask questions, recommendations. Perhaps you’ll stay in town engage in conversation, and get a better sense and stop by a local café to try an authentic of how spirituality plays into local life today. Greek coffee, known for its particularly Then, around 4:45pm, we’ll board our bus and rich flavor. drive about 15 minutes back to our hotel. You’ll have a little under two hours to enjoy some free time.

Around 6:30pm, we’ll reconvene in the lobby to begin making our way to local family’s homes via taxi for our Home-Hosted Dinner. To

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15 Day 7 Meteora • Visit Metsovo Evening: You have the freedom to spend the village • Zagoria rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. • Destination: Zagoria You may want to try to find some late-night • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner loukoumades, a well-known dessert made with • Accommodations: Aristi Mountain Resort fried and . or similar Freedom To Explore: During your two days Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am in Zagoria, you have the freedom to explore with Greek and American options available. on your own during your free time. Below are Morning: Around 9am, we’ll board our bus a few recommended options for independent and set off to Metsovo, a small village nestled explorations: in the Pindus Mountains and renowned for • Visit the beautiful 19th-century Aristi Village its stone mansions, cobbled streets, and : This church is dedicated to one of the longstanding cultural and craft traditions. biggest religious celebrations in Greece, the Upon arrival around 10:30am, we’ll explore Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Its high belfry Metsovo’s picturesque town square and enjoy can be spotted from afar. Perhaps you’ll stroll a lesson around 11:45am from a family through the village square and enjoy a coffee that owns a local , where our small before heading to the church to take in the group will get hands-on experience preparing scenic views. Operating on a limited schedule, pies, a regional specialty. In a group as small the church is occasionally open for masses. as ours, this will be an excellent opportunity to And even when closed, its setting between the interact one-on-one with locals, ask questions, peaceful village cemetery and bustling central and get a sense of family dynamics in modern square make it a great place to spend time. Greek society. • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. Lunch: We’ll have lunch in the taverna around • Hours: Varies by season. 1pm while our pies are baking, and then get to • Cost: Free (donations welcome). sample our freshly-baked creations. • Visit Zinovia’s Little Farm: Meet the owners Afternoon: We’ll depart the restaurant around of this small farm in the Greek countryside. 2pm, walking about a half hour to our bus. As One of the owners will bring you on a tour of we stroll the streets of Mestovo and through the farm and explain their organic farming the town square, we’ll seek out opportunities techniques. You’ll also delve into their goat to interact with the locals we come across. By and bee keeping processes. Depending on the about 4pm, we’ll arrive and check in to our season, you may wish to try your own hand hotel in one of Zagoria’s mountain villages. at milking the goats or other farm activities. Depending on where we stay, our hotel Honey from their on-site bee hives can be may feature on-site amenities including a purchased. bar and restaurant. Typical rooms feature • How to get there: A 20- to 25-minute taxi air-conditioning, wireless Internet access, safe, ride, approximately $23 USD one way. minibar, and private bath with hair dryer. You’ll • Hours: 3pm-5pm, daily. have about three hours of free time. • Cost: Free. Dinner: We’ll enjoy an included dinner together at the hotel this evening around 7pm.

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16 • Take a horseback ride through the mountain- deepest canyon. Travelers can elect to hike ous Zagoria region: On this scenic ride, you’ll down the famous Vitsa stairs (which date from follow trails forged by local herders on the the 17th century), down to the tiny village of outskirts of Megalo Papigo village. You can Kapesovo. Around 11:30am we’ll board our choose between a 30-minute or 45-minute bus and drive about 30 minutes to a local ride that will take you through vast fields, restaurant. small dirt foot paths, and oak forests. Learn Lunch: At a local restaurant around noon more about the history of the area, including featuring traditional Greek . its hay production and cow- and goat-herd- ing traditions. Along the way, enjoy a sweep- Afternoon: We’ll depart the restaurant around ing view of the Vikos Gorge and the springs 1:45pm and drive about 30 minutes back to our of the Voidomatis River. Both of these rides hotel. The rest of the afternoon is yours to make are easy to moderate in difficulty and are your own discoveries. Or, you may join our designed for beginner to intermediate riders. optional Vikos Gorge Rafting excursion, which • How to get there: A 20- to 25-minute taxi features a raft ride along the crystal-clear ride, approximately $23 USD one way. waters of the Voidomatis River with • Hours: Must be booked in advance. experienced local guides. We’ll depart the hotel • Cost: About $23 USD for a 30-minute ride around 3pm and drive about 15 minutes to the or about $28 USD for a 45-minute ride. rafting site. Upon arrival, we’ll board our boats and cruise gently along the river. The optional Day 8 Explore Zagoria • Optional Vikos tour will take approximately three hours, and Gorge Rafting around 6:30pm we’ll drive back to our hotel.

• Destination: Zagoria Dinner: At the hotel around 7:30pm featuring • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner regional and international options. • Accommodations: Aristi Mountain Resort Evening: You have the freedom to spend the or similar rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Activity Note: Today is a very active day, Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. featuring a 2-hour hike. The optional Vikos Perhaps you’ll seek out a nearby bar, or return Gorge Rafting excursion will not operate if to your room to relax before tomorrow’s water levels are too low. discoveries.

Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am, with local and American options available. Day 9 Explore Ioannina • Journey to Gjirokaster, Albania Morning: We’ll depart by bus around 8:30am, • Destination: Gjirokaster journeying into the past to explore Zagoria, a scenic region in the Pindus Mountains dotted • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner with hidden villages linked by mountain roads • Accommodations: Hotel Argjiro or similar and arched stone bridges. Around 9am, we’ll Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am stop in Vitsa, a centuries-old village perched with Greek and American options available. on a mountain slope near the Vikos Gorge, and explore with a local mountain guide. About Morning: Around 8:30am, we board our 12 miles long and a depth of some 3,000 feet bus and begin our drive of about an hour to in spots, Guinness lists Vikos as the world’s Ioannina. Our discoveries continue in this

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17 regional capital situated on the western shores • Admire stunning Viroi Lake: Walk the bus- of Lake Pamvotis. Ioannina was founded by tling promenade along Viroi Lake for idyllic the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the sixth scenery, and the chance to mingle with locals century CE, and was often referred to as the who may also be walking or biking alongside “Metropolis of knowledge” during Byzantine you. Here, you’ll take in views of lush natural times. While here, we’ll have some free time surroundings, and perhaps even stop in at one to stroll through the downtown area of this of the cafés or restaurants along the shores. ancient lakeside city. Then, we’ll reconvene Or, perhaps you’ll enjoy a picnic next to around 12:30pm to walk to a local restaurant. the lake.

Lunch: We’ll enjoy an included lunch at a local • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute taxi restaurant around 12:30pm. ride, approximately $15 USD one way. • Hours: Daily. Afternoon: Around 2pm, we board our bus • Cost: Free. and begin our drive to leave Greece and cross • Take a tour of the Zekate House: Built in the border into Albania. We’ll drive for about the early 19th century, this well-preserved 2 hours before we check in to our hotel in home provides one of the best glimpses into Gjirokaster, Albania, around 4pm. Depending the Ottoman-style architecture Gjirokaster where we stay, our hotel may feature on-site has become known for. These fortified tower amenities including a bar and restaurant. houses, known as kullë, belonged to wealthy Typical rooms include air-conditioning, a individuals, such as merchants or adminis- flat-screen TV, and private en suite bathroom trative officials. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped with hair dryer. You’ll have about two hours into the past as you marvel at its fortified of free time to explore on your own. Around towers, double-arched facade, carved wooden 6:30pm, we’ll reconvene in the hotel lobby and ceilings, stained glass windows, and more. walk about 30 minutes to a local restaurant. You can also enjoy panoramic vistas of the Along the way, your Trip Experience Leader will town and river valley from the towers. familiarize our small group with the area on an orientation walk. • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. • Hours: Varies by season—please ask your Dinner: At a local restaurant around 7pm Trip Experience Leader. featuring regional specialties. • Cost: About $2 USD.

Evening: Around 8:45pm, we’ll depart the • Uncover history at Gjirokastër’s Cold War restaurant and walk about 15 minutes back to Tunnel: Built in secret in the early 1970s, our hotel, where you have the freedom to spend this tunnel served as an emergency bunker the rest of your evening as you wish—ask your during Albania’s Communist era. This tunnel, Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. spanning almost 3,000 feet, has remained Perhaps you’ll go for a stroll through the in its original condition. The bunker was Old Bazaar. designed to serve many purposes in case of nuclear attack, and its 59 rooms were created Freedom To Explore: During your three days for various people and services, such as in Gjirokaster, you have the freedom to explore government ministries, local government, on your own during your free time. Below are interrogators, party elites, sleeping quarters, a few recommended options for independent power generation, and water storage. During explorations:

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18 your visit, you’ll learn more about Albania’s Depending on the season, we may have a complex past under Communist dictator chance to meet with one of these shepherds this Enver Hoxha. morning. With Landi’s help, we’ll learn about • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. the shepherd’s small flock of goats and sheep • Hours: 8am-7pm, Monday-Saturday, and hear details about his profession and life in April-September; 9am-2pm, Monday- the countryside. Continuing on to the heart of Friday, October-March. the village, Landi will share the history of the • Cost: About $2 USD. village—including how it was impacted by the reforms and repression of Albania’s communist Day 10 A Day in the Life of Dhoksat village era—as he points out some of the traditional • Explore Gjirokaster homes and structures along our route: Stone walls, red tile roofs, and wooden gates are the • Destination: Gjirokaster norm here, with sloping, cobbled alleyways • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch giving way to sandy paths. • Accommodations: Hotel Argjiro or similar Our walk will conclude at Landi’s house, where Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries we’ll meet his wife, Panorea, and his mother, feature a NEW A Day in the Life experience Katrina. After touring their property, we’ll in the small village of Dhoksat. With a local be invited to pitch in on the farm. Our exact farmer, Landi Koci, as our guide, we’ll be activity depends on the season—beekeeping, immersed in rural Albanian life when we meet grape harvesting, churning, and even a goat herder and a winemaker, try our hand distilling raki are all necessary chores at traditional farming activities, and enjoy at different times of year. It’s quite likely a homemade lunch. Read more about this we’ll have the opportunity to prepare dhalle, a activity below. slightly salty -based drink that’s one of Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am the most popular beverages in Albania. with Albanian and American options available. Around 11:15am, we’ll join Panorea and Morning: Around 9am, we’ll board a bus Katrina in the kitchen to help with lunch. The and begin our 30-minute drive to Dhoksat, expression for eating a meal in Albania literally where we’ll enjoy our NEW A Day in the Life translates to “going to eat bread,” and we’ll experience. Nestled in the foothills of the likely be tasked with preparing the essential mountains, this unspoiled village is home to loaf. We might also make , a dried just 130 residents. Upon arrival around 9:30am, pasta-like ingredient resembling breadcrumbs. we’ll meet one of them: Landi Koci, a local Lunch: We’ll gather around the family table farmer and fixture in the community. Landi’s around 12:15pm to enjoy the food we’ve family is the largest in Dhoksat, and his farm prepared and to learn more about the family. is one of the most successful. When villagers Our meal will conclude with a cup of traditional have questions about local affairs or need help Albanian coffee. navigating a government issue, Landi is the leader they turn to. Afternoon: Around 1:30pm, we’ll begin our 30-minute drive back to Gjirokaster. You may As we make our way from the bus into the choose to join your Trip Experience Leader center of town, we’ll pass through a dry creek on a 2-hour walk through this hillside town, bed that local shepherds use as pastureland. which begins at 3:30pm. Birthplace of Albanian

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19 dictator Enver Hoxha, Gjirokaster is nicknamed Day 11 Explore Butrint • Controversial the “City of Stone” for the distinctive stone Topic: Domestic violence in patriarchal roofs adorning its old homes and Ottoman-era Albania with a victim and a women’s mansions, which are listed by UNESCO as a rights advocate World Heritage Site. We’re sure to spot them as we stroll along the cobblestone streets leading • Destination: Gjirokaster to the Ottoman bazaar, whose origins go back • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch to the 17th century. Shops line the street selling • Accommodations: Hotel Argjiro or similar traditional products, and we’ll see locals going Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries about their daily routines. We’ll then continue feature the Controversial Topic of domestic on to Gjirokaster’s Ethnographic Museum, violence in Albania with an abuse victim and where Enver Hoxha was born. The home offers a representative from a local women’s rights insights into how a typical wealthy family of organization. While this conversation may merchants or Ottoman administrators would be difficult to have, it will shed light on the live during the 19th century. Our explorations inescapable—and often dire—issues women conclude around 5:30pm at which time you’re face in this profoundly patriarchal society. Read free to continue exploring at leisure. more about this activity below.

Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am Experience Leader for local restaurant with Albanian and American options available. recommendations. Perhaps you’ll seek out local specialties such as Qebapa, which are grilled Morning: We’ll depart by bus around 8:30am beef and lamb sausages, or perime ne zgare—a and embark on an excursion to explore the popular appetizer of grilled vegetables, stunning ruins of Butrint, a UNESCO World including eggplant, , tomatoes, , Heritage Site. Inhabited since prehistoric and peppers. times, Butrint was the site of a Greek colony, a Roman city, and a bishopric of the Byzantine Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Empire. Following a period of prosperity under rest of your evening as you wish—ask your the Byzantines, then a brief occupation by the Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Venetians, the city was abandoned in the late Perhaps you’ll join your fellow travelers on a Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area. walk around our surroundings to take in the Led by an expert local guide, we’ll explore local scenery and nightlife. Or, you may retire to the archaeological site on foot for almost 2 your room to relax. hours, marveling at the repository of ruins representing each period in the ancient city’s development. Around 11:45am, we’ll board our bus and drive about 15 minutes to a local restaurant.

Lunch: Around 12pm at a local seaside restaurant featuring traditional Albanian cuisine.

Afternoon: Around 1:45pm, we’ll finish lunch and begin making our way to Saranda, arriving around 2pm. While this morning’s excursion

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20 revealed Albania’s past, our afternoon activity women. In 2013, Albania ratified the will be focused on present. Saranda is home Convention, an international coalition designed to the Jona Association, a non-government to address violence against women. organization dedicated to advancing women’s On paper, Albania is slowly making headway rights in Albania. Upon arrival in Saranda, we’ll towards equality; in practice, however, the join a representative from this organization, country remains deeply patriarchal—and as well as a local woman, at a small hotel to women continue to suffer at the hands of their discuss a Controversial Topic: combating partners. Property ownership, while legal for domestic violence in male-dominated Albania. women, is difficult to achieve since laws are According to a 2018 survey, nearly 53% of poorly implemented and property is typically Albanian women have been subjected to passed down from fathers to sons. What’s sexual violence at least once in their lifetimes. more, women earn up to 35% less than men Unfortunately, our local speaker is one such for the same work, making self-sufficiency victim. She will bravely share her experience almost impossible. As a result, women are also with us today, while the representative from forced to remain in abusive relationships out Jona translates her story into English and of necessity. Extended families rarely provide provides broader cultural context around the any support: Parents and siblings tend to side issue. Due to the sensitive nature of this topic, with male abusers, blaming the victim for our speakers have requested that we not use bringing the violence on herself. Local police their names. They also ask that no photos departments—which are typically made up or videos be taken during our hour-long almost entirely of men—are also unreliable: conversation. They regularly fail to investigate domestic Gender inequality is a long-standing issue in violence cases, punish abusers, or enforce conservative Albania. Traditionally, men have restraining orders. Since 2010, an estimated 120 been considered the heads of the household women have been killed by intimate partners. and have shouldered the family’s financial During this difficult conversation this burdens, while women have been expected afternoon, our speaker will detail her to be subservient mothers and homemakers. experiences with domestic violence and explain The gender divide is even more pronounced how she eventually managed to escape the in rural areas and small towns, where women abuse. We’ll also learn about the steps NGOs are often seen as property rather than people. like Jona are taking to protect and empower This dehumanizing attitude, coupled with women throughout Albania. Since 2011, ten a sky-high unemployment rate of 18%, has of these organizations have been united resulted in dire conditions for women: 47% within the Albania Women Empower Network have experienced domestic violence with (AWEN) to provide counseling to victims, an intimate partner, and nearly 66% have raise awareness, and advocate for change at experienced dating violence. In recent years, international, national, and local levels. After the government has made efforts to elevate listening to our speaker and Jona representative women’s status in society: Women are now for approximately 15 minutes, we’ll have 45 legally permitted to own property, more than minutes to ask any questions we might have. half participate in the labor force, and nearly one quarter of parliament is composed of

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21 Around 3:30pm, we’ll depart for our hotel in Afternoon: Following lunch around 2:15pm, Gjirokaster, arriving at approximately 4:30pm. we’ll enjoy a stroll through the cobbled The remainder of the evening is free for your streets and old houses of Berat with your Trip own discoveries. Experience Leader. We’ll pass by King Mosque, built in the 15th century by the Ottoman sultan Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip Bayezid II. Around 2:45pm, we’ll board our Experience Leader for local restaurant bus and continue our drive to Tirana, arriving recommendations. We recommend you look and checking in to our hotel around 5:15pm. for options that are known for their Qofte, fried Depending on where we stay, our hotel may seasoned meatballs served in delicious tomato include on-site amenities such as a bar, sauce, and usually served with vegetables restaurant, swimming pool, and fitness center. or beans. Typical rooms include air-conditioning, HD Evening: You have the freedom to spend the TV, complimentary wireless Internet access, rest of your evening as you wish—ask your and a private bath. Around 6:15pm, your Trip Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Experience Leader will lead an orientation walk Perhaps you’ll get a drink at the hotel’s bar through the “Blloku,” an exclusive quarter of with fellow travelers. the former communist party high officials, as we make our way to dinner.

Day 12 Journey to Tirana • Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant in Excursion to Berat Blloku, or the Block, site of the former dictator • Destination: Tirana Enver Hoxha’s villa—once forbidden to the • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner public, the Block is now one of the city’s most vibrant districts. • Accommodations: Hotel Opera or similar

Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am Evening: Around 8:45pm, we’ll make our with Albanian and American options available. way back to the hotel on foot. You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as Morning: Around 8am, we’ll check out of our you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for hotel and begin our journey by bus through recommendations. Perhaps you’ll relax out by Albania’s -producing region to Tirana, the hotel’s swimming pool, or get a drink at the with a stop along the way to witness the hotel bar. stunning collection of Ottoman-style homes of Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We’ll Freedom To Explore: During your two days stop for about an hour to explore around 11am. in Tirana, you have the freedom to explore on Our discoveries will include Berat Castle, a your own during your free time. Below are a 2,500-year old fortress and “living castle” few recommended options for independent situated high above the Osum River, where explorations: we’ll also enjoy a short walk around the castle. • Relive some of Albania’s darkest days at the Lunch: Included at a restaurant inside House of Leaves: Step into this building that Berat Castle around 12:30pm featuring actually housed Gestapo during World War II. . The house was originally built as a medical clinic in 1931, but was taken over during World War II. In 2015, they transformed the house into a museum. Also known as the

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22 Museum of Secret Surveillance, this museum defining memorials throughout the park now chronicles the spying and torture dedicated to Albanian authors and those who that went on here when Albania was under lost their lives in World War II. communist rule. This two-story structure • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute walk. has 31 inter-connected rooms which hold a • Hours: Daily. dark history. Separated into nine sections, • Cost: Free. the museum exhibits varying pieces: from displays of surveillance technology to the Day 13 Explore Tirana • Optional Dajti statements, work, and dossiers prepared by Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum tour informants of the state. Each exhibit presents • Destination: Tirana the communist perception of the enemies they were monitoring. • Included Meals: Breakfast • Accommodations: Hotel Opera or similar • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. • Hours: 9am-5pm, Monday-Saturday. Activity Note: If today’s optional Dajti • Cost: About $10 USD. Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum tour falls on a Tuesday, then the Kruja optional tour will be • Shop and meet locals at the New Bazaar of offered instead. Tirana: Located in Tirana’s Old Town, the new bazaar is a large market and gathering Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am place. In addition to regional fruits, vegeta- with Albanian and American options available. bles, meat, and fish, the market also offers a selection of Albanian and raki, an Morning: Around 9:15am, we’ll depart the -flavored alcoholic beverage. Enjoy hotel and walk about 15 minutes to the National views of the nearby Kokonozi Mosque of History Museum to learn about Albania’s Ottoman and its stone-covered façade. After turbulent history before and after World War II, its 2017 renovation, the bazaar became a along with the country’s post-war difficulties hotspot for locals to gather and socialize. under a Communist regime. The city was You’ll see these locals going about their daily founded in 1614 by Sulejman Pasha, who was routines, and perhaps you’ll even strike up a drawn here by its location at the crossroads conversation with them. of caravan routes, and flourished until the 19th century, when the death of the founder’s • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. grand-nephew, Kaplan Pasha, left the city • Hours: 8am-11:30pm, daily under the control of a megalomaniac, Esat • Cost: Free. Toptani. It was not until Tirana was named • Spend some time at the Grand Park of Tirana: the capital of Albania in 1920 that it began to Known locally as one of the most relaxing thrive again. Today, mud-brick houses and places in the city, this park is situated on cobbled alleyways have largely been replaced more than 700 acres of land. And with an by modern architecture and wide paved streets, artificial lake, a church, the Presidential hills have been reforested and inviting parks Palace, and more, there’s plenty to see while created, and the gray façades that characterized exploring. You may run into locals running or the Communist regime now exude a jumble of walking as part of their daily routines. To one bright colors. In the company of a local guide, end of the park, there is a zoo and botanical we’ll delve into this nation’s complex history garden. Within the botanical garden, you’ll for about two hours at the museum. find native flora and fauna. You’ll also find

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23 Following our visit, the remainder of the day is Lunch: At a local restaurant around 1:30pm. free for your own discoveries. You can join our Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll check in to our optional Dajti Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum hotel. Depending on where we stay, our hotel tour, which departs around 12:30pm. may feature on-site amenities including a Lunch: On your own for those who don’t take restaurant and spa. Typical rooms will feature this afternoon’s optional tour—ask your air-conditioning, cable TV, and a private en Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant suite bathroom. You’re free to explore on your recommendations. For those on the optional own for the remainder of the afternoon. tour, lunch is included at a local restaurant Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip around 1:30pm. Experience Leader for local restaurant Afternoon: You may enjoy free time for the recommendations. lovers rejoice, as one remainder of the day. Perhaps you’ll stroll of the area’s best-known specialties is their along the promenade at the Grand Park of makalo, a ubiquitous garlic sauce. Or, if you’re Tirana, or visit the House of Leaves. in the mood for seafood, perhaps you’ll seek out grilled Ohrid , which locals usually Dinner: On your own. Perhaps at this point in like to pair with a red and your adventure, you know exactly what local . dishes you’d like to search for. Or, if you’d like to get a taste for local flavors, maybe you’ll Evening: You have the freedom to spend the seek out fried kaçkavall, a salty cheese typically rest of your evening as you wish. You might served as an entrée in local restaurants. choose to take advantage of the hotel spa for some additional relaxation. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps you’ll Freedom To Explore: During your two days mingle with fellow travelers and discuss the in Ohrid, you have the freedom to explore on discoveries you’ve made on the adventure so your own during your free time. Below are a far. Or, you might choose to return to your few recommended options for independent room to relax for the night. explorations:

• Explore the Monastery of : Day 14 Journey to Ohrid, Macedonia Originally built by Saint Naum in the ninth • Destination: Ohrid century, and rebuilt in the 16th century, the • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch monastery boasts beautiful multi-domed • Accommodations: City Palace Hotel Byzantine architecture. The central element or similar of this monastery complex is the Church of the Holy Archangels. Enjoy the charming Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am façade of this secluded church—surrounded with Albanian and American options available. by tall cypresses, traditional buildings, and Morning: At about 8:30am, we’ll depart red-tiles roofs—or enter the inside to admire Tirana by bus and make our way to Ohrid, the its distinct wood carvings and dedication to picturesque hillside city set along the shores of the holy Assumption of Saint Naum. You can Lake Ohrid in the Republic of Macedonia. Upon also enjoy a stroll through the complex’s arrival in Ohrid around 1pm, we’ll have a brief serene garden teeming with local flora, orientation walk. spouting fountains, and colorful peacocks.

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24 Plus, small row boats depart from the monas- since medieval times. All icons are very well tery, taking visitors across a lake to the sight preserved, and boasted by many as vibrant of stunning bubbling springs. and powerful. • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi • How to get there: A 5- to 10-mile taxi ride, ride, about $30 USD. about $5 USD. • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. • Hours: 9am-5pm, Tuesday through • Cost: About $5 USD. Sunday. • Visit Galichitsa Mountain and National • Cost: About $5 USD. Park: Nestled between Lake Ohrid and , this rock-crested massif and Day 15 Explore Ohrid • Boat ride to Bay of surrounding national park are an idyllic place the Bones & “Museum on Water” to hike, take in the scenery, and witness • Destination: Ohrid local wildlife. Traditional mountain villages • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner dot this craggy landscape, and more than • Accommodations: City Palace Hotel 1100 native plant species exist within the or similar national park—including 12 that can only Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at be found here. On Lake Prespa, you can find 7am, with local and American options available. the rocky island of Golem Grad. Once home to a settlement between the fourth century Morning: Combining historical heritage BCE and sixth century CE and a monastery with natural beauty, the town of Ohrid is complex in medieval times, this island is Macedonia’s crown jewel. Set on the shores of now home to more natural inhabitants: wild Lake Ohrid, the lakeside town is one of Europe’s tortoises, cormorants, and pelicans. Explore oldest human settlements—and the entire the island’s ancient ruins and get up close to Ohrid region is listed by UNESCO as a Natural its distinct wildlife. and Cultural Heritage Site. We’ll depart on • How to get there: A 20- to 30-mile taxi foot around 9am for a walking tour along the ride, about $120 USD. narrow streets of Ohrid’s compact Old Town, • Hours: Daily. a blend of old churches, modern restaurants, • Cost: About $5 USD. and vibrant cafés. At about 10am, we’ll stop at a workshop specializing in world-renowned • Explore the Ohrid Icon Gallery: This small Ohrid pearls, created through a secret process museum holds an impressive collection passed down by just a few local families over of religious artifacts. In addition to its several generations. Hearing about the history collection of Macedonian icons, the gallery and tradition from the people who know it best, contains liturgical objects spanning from the we’ll come away with a better understanding of Byzantine era to the Macedonian Renaissance. the local economy and culture. Plus, our small The collection highlights the importance of group size gives us the opportunity to make real Saint Ohrid as a cultural and spiritual symbol connections with the people we meet.

Then around 10:45am, we’ll walk 15 minutes to a port to embark on a boat ride along the lake’s azure waters to the Bay of the Bones and its “Museum on Water,” an open-air reconstruction of a Neolithic lake dwelling

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25 based on artifacts found on the surrounding Day 16 Depart for Skopje • Controversial lake bed. We’ll sail back around 12:30pm and Topic: Ethnic Albanian discrimination arrive back in Ohrid about 40 minutes later. in North Macedonia with local mosque Lunch: On your own around 1pm. Ask your Trip leader Mensur Miftari • Discover • Experience Leader where you can try the best Boat ride in Matka Canyon pastrmaylia—a Macedonian bread pie topped • Destination: Skopje with either chicken or pork. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Afternoon: After lunch around 2pm, well • Accommodations: Alexander II or similar regroup and take a short 15-minute taxi ride to Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: During today’s the legendary ruins at Ohrid: the Upper Gate. discoveries at Šarena Džamija, or the “Colorful Out of the four that were built when the town Mosque,” we’ll learn about the Controversial was first established, two remain standing. Topic of discrimination faced by the ethnic We’ll take a walking tour of the ruins and the Albanian minority population living in North surrounding area area, during which our Trip Macedonia. We ask that you bring an open Experience Leader will talk about the history mind to this sensitive discussion, which will of the gates and the town. Our next stop is the be led by local mosque leader and ethnic nearby Holy Mother of God Peribleptos Church, Albanian Mensur Miftari. Read more about this which dates back to 1295. We’ll admire the activity below. Byzantine architecture and intricate frescoes adorning the walls. Lastly, we’ll step even Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at further back in time at the Ancient Theatre 7am, with local and American options available. of Ohrid, which was built in 200 BCE and is Morning: We depart for Skopje by bus around the only Hellenistic theater remaining in 8am. Along the way, we’ll enjoy a stop in Macedonia. Even today, performances are held Tetovo, where we’ll visit the city’s unique at the theater throughout the summertime. Šarena Džamija around 10:30am, an ancient Our tour wraps up around 3:45pm, at which mosque decorated with bright floral paintings. point rest of the day is yours to pursue The mosque is a place of significant importance individual interests in Ohrid. Or you may wish for North Macedonia’s ethnic Albanian to simply relax along the lakeside promenade to minority, who are Muslim in a predominantly take in the region’s natural beauty. Orthodox Christian country. We’ll learn more about this minority population when we meet Dinner: Tonight, we’ll gather together and with a local ethnic Albanian speaker to discuss head out to a local restaurant around 7:30pm the Controversial Topic of discrimination for an included dinner featuring a performance against Albanians living in North Macedonia. of Macedonian folk music. About a quarter of North Macedonia’s two Evening: You have the freedom to spend the million residents are ethnic Albanians—making rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip North Macedonia the country with the largest Experience Leader for recommendations. percentage of ethnic minorities in all of Europe. On the surface, it seems as though the two groups have found a way to peacefully coexist, with the North Macedonian government passing a series of legislative efforts to ensure

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26 equal treatment of Albanians: Albania’s barriers to achieving Macedonian citizenship residents have the right, for example, to receive make some ethnic Albanians feel their future in their education—from primary school to North Macedonia is uncertain. university—in Albanian; they are able to freely You’ll have plenty of time to hear Mr. Miftari’s practice Islam in mosques around the country; views on these issues and more. You’ll also have they have their own political parties with about 45 minutes to ask him any questions you representatives in Parliament; and the Albanian may have on the intricacies of this complex language is now the second official language in situation. While discussions of this nature may North Macedonia. be sensitive and, for some, uncomfortable, And yet, ethnic tensions have long been we feel they are critical to understanding . To understand why, it helps to modern-day North Macedonia. understand the complex—and at times, We’ll conclude our discussion with Mr. Miftari bloody—history of the region. North Macedonia around 11:30am and then drive to Matka was established as an independent nation in Canyon. Around 12:30pm we’ll begin exploring 1991, after the dissolution of and the deep mountain gorge surrounding a the Balkan War. In the three decades prior man-made lake formed by the damming of the to Yugoslavia’s collapse, more and more River Treska. Following our discoveries, we’ll ethnic Albanians began moving to North walk to a local restaurant. Macedonia—in 1961, for example, only 13% of the population was ethnic Albanian. Ethnic Lunch: At a local restaurant around 1pm, Macedonians fear the steadily rising number of featuring regional specialties. Albanians. In particular, they worry that, after finally achieving statehood a mere thirty years Afternoon: At about 2pm, we’ll view some ago, North Macedonia risks becoming part of of the region’s scenery during a boat ride “Greater Albania” if it continues giving in to along the river canyon, and learn about the the ethnic Albanians’ demands. region’s ecosystem at one of the many natural caves found here. We’ll depart for Skopje For a personal perspective on the situation, around 3:30pm, and arrive at our hotel around we’ll meet with Mensur Miftari, an ethnic 4pm. We’ll enjoy a brief orientation walk to Albanian, North Macedonian citizen, and head familiarize ourselves with the area. Depending of the Pasha Mosque. Mr. Miftari was born in on where we stay, our hotel may feature on-site 1967 and has thus had an up-close view on amenities including a rooftop restaurant, Albanian-Macedonian relations both before bar, fitness center, pool, and Jacuzzi. Typical and after North Macedonia became a state. rooms may feature air-conditioning, LCD TV, We’ll hear from him what it’s like to be part of telephone, Internet, minibar, safe, and private an ethnic minority and what struggles members bath. We’ll depart on foot for a 15-minute walk of his community continue to face, despite to a local restaurant around 6:45pm. government intervention. As we’ll learn, one of the ongoing issues is perceived xenophobia Dinner: At a local restaurant around 7pm, from North Macedonians. Many ethnic featuring local cuisine. Albanians feel their cultural heritage is being Evening: You have the freedom to spend the threatened by intolerance and deeply-rooted rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Slavic hatred towards them. In addition, Trip Experience Leader for recommendations.

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27 Perhaps you’ll use this time to visit the hotel’s It’s recommended to use the bathroom prior fitness center, or enjoy a nightcap at the to departing and to bring water as there is no on-site bar. running water at the top of the mountain.

Freedom To Explore: During your two days • How to get there: A 5- to 10-mile taxi ride, in Skopje, you have the freedom to explore on about $5 USD. your own during your free time. Below are a • Hours: Varies by season. Please ask your few recommended options for independent Trip Experience Leader. explorations: • Cost: About $5 USD. • Explore one of the largest museums in • Visit Chateau Kamnik Winery: Resembling Macedonia, the Contemporary Art Museum a fairy-tale-like castle, this boutique winery of Macedonia: Founded in 1963 and donated is set among rolling countryside hills. Enjoy as a gift from Poland following a disastrous scenic views of the rows of vineyards and earthquake, this museum was the first of its the surrounding mountains as you sip on a kind in the Balkans. Its extensive collection glass of regional wine. With a modern aims to connect people with domestic and on traditional Macedonian wine production, international contemporary art. International the vineyard offers a variety of red, white, exhibitions include pieces from Picasso, orange, and sparkling wines. Perhaps you’ll Léger, Hockney, Meret Oppenheim and take part in a wine tasting, where you’ll visit Bridget Riley. Temporary exhibitions of the vineyards and wine cellar to better un- foreign and local art are also on display. Plus, derstand the viticulture and wine production enjoy panoramic views of Skopje before or process. Or, savor a meal of international or after your visit from the hilltop the muse- regional cuisine at the restaurant attached to um rests on. the winery. • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute taxi How to get there: A 5- to 10-mile taxi ride, • ride, about $5 USD. about $10 USD one way. • Hours: 10am-5pm, Tuesday-Saturday; Hours: 8am-10pm, daily. • 9am-1pm, Sunday. Cost: Email [email protected] • • Cost: About $5 USD. to inquire about pricing. • Marvel at the Millenium Cross: Sitting atop Day 17 Explore Skopje Vodmo Mountain and standing at over 200 • Destination: Skopje feet, this landmark pays tribute to 2,000 • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner years of Christianity. The monument’s • Accommodations: Alexander II or similar design reflects a 4th-century mosaic. Take a cable car ride to see the monument, and Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at perhaps take the elevator to the top of the 7am, with local and American options available. monument for panoramic views of Skopje. Morning: After breakfast, we’ll set off around 9am to explore several highlights of the Macedonian capital on a walking tour, including the rich repository of historical and cultural heritage at the Archaeological Museum, a massive, Italianate-styled building. We’ll make our way here around 10am, and spend about

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28 an hour exploring. Inside, there are numerous Kamnik Winery. Or, if you are looking for more archaeological excavations displayed. A historical discoveries, maybe you’ll set out to few highlights of the museum include 3D the Contemporary Art Museum of Macedonia. reconstructions of early Macedonian faces from Dinner: This evening, we’ll gather around skulls found during excavations, a replica of an 7pm to celebrate our discoveries during a early Christina basilica, and a Phoenician royal festive Farewell Dinner at a local restaurant necropolis. Following our discoveries, we’ll featuring music. make begin our exploration of the older part of the city: the Old Turkish Bazaar. We’ll meander Evening: You have the freedom to spend the the narrow., cobbled streets, keeping an eye out rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps for interactions with local Macedonians. Your you and your fellow travelers will spend time Trip Experience Leader will guide us through together in the hotel bar, reminiscing about all this chaotic assortment of traditional shops and the experiences you’ve had in the Balkans. authentic restaurants. We’ll end our discoveries here, where you’ll be in the vicinity of many Day 18 Return to U.S. or begin local shops and restaurants. post-trip extension Lunch: On your own around 1pm. Seek out • Included Meals: Breakfast with minced calf meat and onions in one Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at of the many traditional restaurants in the Old 7am, with local and American options available. Turkish Bazaar. Morning: We transfer to the airport for our Afternoon: The balance of the afternoon is set return flight home, or to begin our post-trip aside for individual pursuits in Skopje. Perhaps extension Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade you’ll sample local vintages at the Chateau & Novi Sad.

END YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL POST-TRIP EXTENSION 6 nights in Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Sad

Day 1 Transfer to Nis, Serbia Day 4 Explore Belgrade • Optional From Royalty to Today’s Belgrade tour Day 2 Explore Nis • Visit Nis Fortress & Red Cross Concentration Camp Day 5 Excursion to and Novi Sad Day 3 Transfer to Belgrade • Explore and Oplenac Day 6 Belgrade • Excursion to Kovacica Day 7 Depart for the U.S.

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29 OPTIONAL TOURS

During your trip you will be able to book optional tours directly with your Trip Experience Leader. He or she will ask you to confirm the payment for these tours by filling out a payment form. Optional tours can only be purchased with a credit or debit card. We accept Visa, MasterCard, and Discover credit cards. We also accept Visa and MasterCard debit cards, but it must be a debit card that allows you to sign for purchases.

In order to correctly process these charges, there can be a delay of 2-3 months from the date of your return for the charges to be posted to your account. Therefore we ask that you use a card that will not expire in the 2-3 months following your return.

Please note: Optional tour prices are listed in U.S. dollar estimates determined at the time of publication and are subject to change. Optional tours may vary.

Vikos Gorge Rafting Please Note: This optional tour is not available (Day 8 $75 per person) on Tuesdays. When unavailable, we will offer a replacement optional tour to the hilltop This afternoon’s optional tour features a gentle town of Kruja. raft ride along the crystal-clear waters of the Voidomatis River. The scenery unfolding during your ride includes several springs, small Kruja cascades of water, and arched stone bridges. (Day 13 $75 per person) Experienced local guides will lead the tour. This optional tour journeys outside of Tirana to Kruja, a hill-top town that gained its Dajti Mountain & Bunk’Art Museum legendary reputation during the 15th century (Day 13 $75 per person) when national hero Skanderbeg made it the center of Albania’s war against invading This optional tour takes us first on the longest Ottoman Turks. During our visit, we’ll see the cable car in the Balkans over the Dajti mountain statue of Skanderbeg wielding his sword at tops. While in the gondola, we’ll take in the town square, visit Kruja’s splendid castle, spectacular views of the landscape below, and view paintings and other depictions of and once at the top, we’ll enjoy an included Skanderbeg’s struggles against the Ottomans lunch at a restaurant overlooking the city of at the Skanderbeg Museum. We’ll also explore Tirana and its adjacent valley. After witnessing the collections of the Ethnographic Museum, the city from above, we’ll then venture to its housed in an original 19th-century home depths with a visit to the Bunk’Art Museum. A of an affluent Albanian family. And since five-story, labyrinthine underground bunker Kruja is considered the best place to shop with over 100 rooms to explore, the design, for embroidery and traditional keepsakes of origins, and history of the museum will reveal Albania, we’ll spend some time at the local the impact World War II and the Cold War bazaar. This optional tour also includes lunch. had on Albania’s trajectory from the 20th century onward.

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30 PRE-TRIP Ancient Greece: Athens & the Isle of Crete

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations for 2 nights in Athens » 7 small group activities at the Hera Hotel or similar, 2 nights in » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Chania at the Kydon Hotel or similar, and 2 Experience Leader nights in Heraklion at the Olive Green Hotel » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and or similar luggage porters » 10 meals—6 breakfasts, 2 » All transfers lunches, 2 dinners

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Extend your discoveries by exploring Athens and Crete. Visit iconic sites like the Acropolis in Athens, and explore Crete, Greece’s largest and most populated island, whose roots date back to one of Europe’s earliest documented civilization: the Minoans.

Day 1 Depart for Athens, Greece Later in the afternoon, our Trip Experience Leader will take us on a short orientation • Destination: Athens walk around the hotel to get acquainted with Afternoon/Evening: Depart today on your the area, including where to find an ATM or overnight flight to Athens, Greece. Please anything you might need. refer to your individual air itinerary for exact departure and arrival times. Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience Leader will be happy to provide dining Day 2 Arrive Athens, Greece recommendations, whether you want to find authentic moussaka or a nearby bar to enjoy • Destination: Athens some . • Accommodations: Hera Hotel or similar Evening: The remainder of your evening is free. Afternoon: Depending on your flight schedule, You may like to take a nighttime stroll through arrive in Athens, Greece, where a representative the city, or retire early to your room after your will meet you at the airport and assist with overnight flight. your 45-minute bus transfer to your hotel. Depending on where we stay, our hotel may Freedom To Explore: During your two days in feature air-conditioned rooms with coffee- and Athens, you have the freedom to explore this -making facilities, high-speed wireless ancient capital on your own during your free Internet access, telephone, a private bath with a time. Below are a few recommended options for hair dryer, and a safe. independent explorations:

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31 • Explore the multi-faceted complex of Stavros buildings in Athens, including the Parliament Niarchos Park: Located in the scenic bay building, Kallimarmaro Stadium (Panathinaic of Faliro, the environmentally sustainable Stadium) and the temple of Olympian Zeus. grounds are comprised of a park, a new, • How to get there: A 5-minute taxi ride, state-of-the-art national library, as well as about $40 USD one way. the Greek National Opera. Here, you have the • Hours: 6am-8pm, daily. opportunity to enjoy cultural events, engage • Cost: Free. in educational activities, stroll the landscaped walking paths, enjoy a meal in the on-site Day 3 Athens • The Acropolis • Plaka & catering facilities, and mingle with locals. Monastiraki Square At the highest point of the park, there is a • Destination: Athens lighthouse, where visitors are able to enjoy a panoramic view of both Athens and the sea. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner • Accommodations: Hera Hotel or similar • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi ride, about $12 USD one way. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at • Hours: 6am-8pm, Monday-Friday; 6am- 7am, featuring local and American options. 10pm, Saturday & Sunday. Morning: Around 9am, we’ll enjoy a Welcome • Cost: Free. Briefing with our Trip Experience Leader. • Witness a sweeping view of Athens on a cable During this briefing, we’ll introduce ourselves car ride up Mount Lycabettus: Perched on and review our itinerary in more detail a limestone hill almost 1,000 feet above sea (including any changes that may need to occur). level, Mount Lycabettus is arguably one of Our Trip Experience Leader will also discuss the best vantage points in the area. A stroll logistics, safety and emergency procedures, and around the hill provides a great opportunity answer any questions we may have. for those who enjoy a walk with a bird’s eye view of their surroundings. Mount Lycabettus Then, around 10:15am we’ll set out with our is comprised of cretaceous limestone, which Trip Experience Leader and a local guide to means it’s tens of millions years old. soak up Athens’ magnificent history. One of the oldest cities in existence, Athens is • How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, considered the birthplace of democracy and has about $9 USD one way. long been a hot spot for many of the artistic, • Hours: 9am-2:30pm, daily. philosophical, and political developments that • Cost: Free. continue to shape our world. We’ll begin our • Escape to the verdant grounds of the National discoveries with a visit to one of the city’s most Garden of Athens: Spanning almost 40 acres, iconic sites, the Acropolis. Constructed under the National Garden was commissioned by the guidance of Pericles, the leader of ancient Queen Amalia in 1838. It contains ancient Athens, the Acropolis sits perched above ruins and mosaics among other interesting the city, its historically and architecturally features. Peruse the historical relics and significant remnants—including the wander the lush grounds of this natural gem. Parthenon—providing glimpses into Greece’s You may also want to explore the vicinity Golden Age. around the gardens. Just next to them is the building of , an exhibition hall surrounded by some of the most important

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32 After witnessing the site firsthand, we’ll Day 4 Athens • Fly to Chania continue our discoveries around 11:30am at the • Destination: Chania , a tribute to the site’s many • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner archaeological treasures. The exhibitions in the museum reflect the immense cultural riches • Accommodations: Kydon Hotel or similar of Greece. We’ll then cap off our explorations Early Morning: We wake early this morning in Athens with a stroll through Plaka around and depart for about a 45-minute bus 12:30pm, the city’s oldest neighborhood, whose transfer to the airport for our flight to Chania serpentine streets spill down the slopes off the around 5:30am. northern and eastern sides of the Acropolis. Arriving in Monastiraki Square, perhaps Breakfast: To ensure a timely transfer, we’ll Athens’ most popular shopping district, you bring boxed breakfasts from the hotel along may enjoy some free time to explore and mingle with us, with the opportunity to eat in transit or with locals. when we arrive at the gate.

Lunch: On your own in Monastiraki Square Morning: This morning, our 1-hour flight to around 1:30pm. Check with your Trip Crete departs around 8am. The largest and most Experience Leader for ideas. Perhaps you’d heavily populated of the Greek islands, Crete’s like to seek out a gyro, rotisserie-cooked meat roots date back to Europe’s earliest documented served in a type of pita wrap along with tomato, civilization, the Minoans, who existed during , and tzatziki sauce. You might also try the Bronze Age, predating what we know briam, a medley of traditional Mediterranean as ancient Greece. A mountainous expanse flavors including eggplant, bell peppers, spotted with gorges, rivers, and lakes, Crete is zucchini, potatoes, cherry tomatoes, shallots, distinctive in its beauty. Upon landing around carrots, and garlic mixed with herbs, roasted to 9am, we will transfer to our hotel, about an perfection, and topped with tomato sauce. hour away, to briefly check in and deposit our luggage. Depending on where we stay, our hotel Afternoon: We’ll continue our exploration may feature air-conditioned rooms including after lunch on our own. Perhaps you want to a balcony or terrace, wireless Internet access, stroll the idyllic pedestrian street Dionysiou telephone, satellite TV, and private bath. Areopagitou or visit another one of the many museums in the area. Your Trip Experience Our Cretan journey begins around 10am as Leader is also happy to provide suggested we join a local guide for our discoveries in activities. Chania, the island’s second largest city. We’ll start off with a walking tour departing from Around 6:45pm, we’ll depart for the 15-minute our hotel through the narrow, winding streets drive to our dinner spot for the evening. of the war-torn Old Town. Lined by what’s left of an old Venetian wall that was mostly Dinner: We’ll gather as a group for dinner in a destroyed during World War II, the Old Town local restaurant around 7pm. offers beautiful harbor views and fascinating Evening: You have the freedom to spend the excavated remains of an ancient Minoan city. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip We’ll stroll through the Agora, a lively market Experience Leader for recommendations. on the border of the Old Town and the modern city. We’ll also stop to admire the town’s Agios Nikolaos Church and Kucuk Hasan mosque,

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33 getting a sense of the different architectural memorialized for their struggle to unify with and spiritual influences that shaped the mainland Greece. A reservation is recom- area. Around 10:45am, we’ll pay a visit to the mended, as this is a popular spot (especially Archaeological Museum of Chania, where on weekends). artifacts reveal the city’s cultural development • How to get there: A 15-minute taxi ride, from the Neolithic period to the Roman period. about $8 USD one way. Lunch: On your own around noon—ask your • Hours: 10am-12am, daily. Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant • Cost: Free. recommendations. You might take this • Experience authentic Cretan olive oil with opportunity to savor sarikopitakia, a Cretan a Biolea Olive Oil tour: Open to culinary specialty. These coil-shaped pastries are filled connoisseurs year-round, pay a visit to the with sheep’s cheese, then fried in olive oil and Biolea olive oil estate, where you’ll tour topped with warm honey. production facilities, watch a short film about winter production, as well as enjoy a tasting Afternoon: We’ll resume our walking tour at of their three distinguished products. You’ll the Maritime Museum around 1:30pm, followed also have the opportunity to observe olive by a stroll around the surrounding area. Around oil production from the mezzanine of the 3:30pm, we’ll head back to the hotel to enjoy olive mill, providing a bird’s eye view of the free time or rest before our small group gathers entire process. for dinner. • How to get there: A 45-minute taxi ride, Around 6:45pm, we’ll depart for the 15-minute about $113 USD one way. drive to to dinner. • Hours: 10am-6pm, Monday-Saturday. • Cost: Free. Dinner: Around 7pm we’ll sit down for an included dinner at a local restaurant. • Delight in the craggy coast and turquoise waters of Agioi Apostoli: Board a boat from Evening: You have the freedom to spend the the old port and visit pristine nearby beaches, rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip with the opportunity to snorkel, swim, and Experience Leader for recommendations. explore. You’ll encounter sea life, relax in the tranquil waters, and enjoy sweeping views Freedom To Explore: During your two days in of the shoreline. This particular area is also Chania, you have the freedom to explore the famous for its protected coves, which you are island’s second largest city on your own during free to explore. Depending on the tour, this your free time. Below are a few recommended activity may run from 1 to almost 4 hours. options for independent explorations: • How to get there: A 5-minute walk. • Take in the lovely views and history of Chania • Hours: Varies. with a visit to Koukouvaya Café & Venizelos • Cost: Ranges from about $10-$35 USD. Tombs: Perched atop a hill overlooking the town, Koukouvaya Café is a favorite hangout for locals and those looking to appreciate the landscape of the surrounding area over a cup of coffee or sweet treat. Directly next to the café is a park containing the tombs of the Venizelos family, prominent political leaders

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34 Day 5 Chania Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant • Destination: Chania recommendations. One specialty you might • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch want to try is , a light, yet filling, salad • Accommodations: Kydon Hotel or similar of tomato, myzithra (creamy sheep or goat Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at cheese), and herbs, set atop a slice of bread or 7am, featuring local and American options. paximadi (barley rusk) soaked in olive oil.

Morning: With its Minoan roots and geographic Evening: You have the freedom to spend the separation from mainland Greece, Crete rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip developed a culture—including its own Experience Leader for recommendations. mythology, poetry, music, and more—that’s divergent from typical Greek culture. Its Day 6 Overland to Rethymno • climate, biodiversity, and natural environment, Home-Hosted Lunch • Heraklion are also quite unique. With both Mediterranean • Destination: Heraklion and North African climates, Crete is an • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch agricultural superpower where summer fruits and vegetables grow year-round. The island • Accommodations: Olive Green Hotel also hosts a wide range of flora and fauna, or similar including swallows that forego their species’ Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at typical African migration to reside in Crete 7am, featuring local and American options. full time. Morning: Around 8:30am, we’ll depart for Around 8:30am, we’ll depart for about a Heraklion, but first stop in Rethymno, a city 30-minute drive to a lush botanical park just situated on the north coast. We’ll arrive around outside of Chania, where we’ll witness some 9:45am, at which time we’ll begin our day with of this biodiversity firsthand. Around 9:15am, a walking tour through the Old Town, an area of we’ll enjoy an introduction to local herbs the city whose layout has remained unchanged and Cretan nature. Then, we gather fresh since the 17th century. From the quaint ingredients from the gardens, and enjoy a tavernas to the old world ambiance, we’ll go cooking lesson with a local, where we’ll get back in time wandering the narrow streets. hands-on experience preparing a regional We’ll later visit the Folk Art Museum, featuring specialty using the ingredients we found. Next, collections of ancient clothing, crafts, tools, we take about a 1.5-hour hike in the botanical and furniture. park, beginning around 10:45am. On our guided hike, we’ll see plants native to five different Around 12:15pm we’ll depart for the 15-minute continents. We’ll also learn about these flora in drive to the home of a local family. preparation for the lunch we will soon cook. Lunch: Around 12:30pm we’ll enjoy a Lunch: Around 12:30pm we’ll enjoy lunch traditional meal during a Home-Hosted Lunch together in the garden, where our hike ends. with a local family. We’ll have the opportunity to experience authentic Cretan cooking, as well Afternoon: Around 2:30pm, we’ll drive back as ask the family any questions we may have into town where you may enjoy some time to about daily life and culture. relax or seek out your own discoveries.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

35 Afternoon: Around 3pm, we continue on • Experience the Bronze Age of Aegean with about a 2-hour drive to Crete’s capital, Civilization at the Heraklion Archaeological Heraklion. After checking in to the hotel, the Museum: The archaeological museum of rest of the day is yours to enjoy on your own Heraklion is considered one of the greatest terms. Depending on where we stay, our hotel museums in all of Greece, housing the most may feature on-site amenities including a extensive and notable collection of Minoan swimming pool and restaurant and bar. Typical art in existence. Peruse the impressive rooms include wireless Internet access, a safe, exhibitions covering a chronological span of and a mini-fridge. over 5,500 years from the Neolithic period to Roman times. The museum is located in In terms of afternoon activities, we recommend the city center and was founded in 1883, but a visit to Lions Square, named after the the building it’s currently housed in wasn’t Cretan statesman Eleftherios Venizelos. It erected until around 1937. dates back to the Venetian era and contains a renowned Venetian-era fountain appropriately • How to get there: A 5-minute walk. named “The Lions.” For more architectural • Hours: 8am-8pm, Monday-Sunday. marvels, visit the stunning churches in • Cost: Free. St. Catherine’s Square or walk along the • Bask in the sun at Karteros Beach: Located pedestrian street of 25th of August, lined with just a few miles outside of Heraklion, Karteros shops and restaurants leading down to the Beach is a favorite coastal spot for those magnificent harbor. looking to take advantage of the many aquatic opportunities. Go for a relaxing swim, lounge Dinner: On your own—your Trip Experience on the picturesque beach, and if the mood Leader is always available to provide strikes, stop by one of the beach cafés serving recommendations. Maybe you’ll try apaki, food and cool refreshments. a Cretan recipe for salted pork. Marinated in vinegar for several days, apaki is then • How to get there: A 15-minute taxi ride, slow-smoked with local herbs and , about $17 USD one way. resulting in a delectable flavor that can be • Hours: Open 24 hours, 7 days a week. enjoyed as its own meal, or as an ingredient in • Cost: Free. omelets, , or other dishes. • Explore the vivid aquatic world of Crete at CretAquarium: Witness the wide breadth and Evening: You have the freedom to spend the abundance of species in the Mediterranean rest of your evening as you wish—ask your marine world. Among other creatures, you’ll Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. have the opportunity to come face to face Perhaps you’ll spend some time at the hotel’s with an , allowing you to examine bar and try some of the region’s famous wines. its behavior and habitat. A visit to the Freedom To Explore: During your two days CretAquarium is ideal for anyone interested in Heraklion, you have the freedom to explore in learning about and admiring local aquatic Crete’s capital city on your own during your life. You can also enjoy a relaxing break at the free time. Below are a few recommended options for independent explorations:

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

36 on-site Café- Restaurant Thalassea, where Lunch: On your own, for those who don’t take you’ll find a variety of salads, , seafood the optional tour. Your Trip Experience Leader dishes, and drinks to choose from. is always happy to provide ideas. For those who • How to get there: A 15-minute taxi ride, do join the tour, a seafood lunch is included at a about $23 USD one way. local restaurant around 1pm in Plaqa. • Hours: 9:30am-7pm, Monday-Sunday. Afternoon: For those who joined the optional • Cost: About $10 USD. tour, we’ll return to Heraklion around 4:30pm, after which the entire group may enjoy Day 7 Heraklion • Optional Spinalonga: free time. The Leper Colony tour Dinner: On your own—this is your chance • Destination: Heraklion to sample some of your new favorite dishes • Included Meals: Breakfast once more before concluding your pre-trip • Accommodations: Olive Green Hotel extension. Perhaps you’ll celebrate your or similar journey with gamopilafo, a meat and dish Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at traditionally enjoyed at Cretan weddings. 7am, featuring local and American options. Gamopilafo is prepared by roasting high-quality meat—typically goat, lamb, or chicken—and Morning: Our exploration of Crete’s capital city then cooking the rice in the broth, for a savory begins around 8am when we’ll depart for the and complimentary flavor. 15-minute drive to the Knossos Archaeological Site in Heraklion. Here, we’ll witness the ruins Evening: You have the freedom to spend the of a 1,300-room palace complex from what is rest of your evening as you wish. considered to be Europe’s oldest city. Dating back to the Bronze Age, the site reveals insights Day 8 Fly to Thessaloniki, Greece • into the Minoan civilization. Begin main trip Around 10am, you may choose to spend the rest • Included Meals: Breakfast of the day making discoveries on your own, or Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at join us on our optional Spinalonga: The Leper 7am, featuring local and American options. Colony tour. Originally part of mainland Crete, but carved into a separate island during the Morning: Around 8:30am, we transfer about 15th century Venetian rule, Spinalonga—known 20 minutes to the airport for our flight to officially as Kalydon—was used first for Thessaloniki to connect with the rest of the fortification, and then as a leper colony in group and begin our Northern Greece, Albania & the first half of the 20th century. We’ll depart Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great around 10am for the 1.5-hour drive to Plaqa, adventure. where we’ll board a boat to the island. Those who choose to will get to explore both the fortress and the abandoned colony during our optional tour, followed by lunch together in a local seafood restaurant.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

37 OPTIONAL TOUR

Spinalonga: The Leper Colony (Day 7 $115 per person) Spinalonga, also known as Kalydon, was originally part of mainland Crete. In the 15th century, under Venetian rule, it was carved off into its own separate island. Originally used as fortification and protection over trade routes, the island eventually was used to separate those suffering from leprosy from the rest of society during the first half of the 20th century. On this optional tour, we’ll get to explore both the fortresses and the abandoned leper colony, followed by lunch together in a local seafood restaurant.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

38 POST-TRIP Highlights of Serbia: Nis, Belgrade & Novi Sad

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations for 2 nights in Nis at the » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Best Western Hotel My Place or similar and Experience Leader 4 nights in Belgrade at the Envoy Hotel » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and or similar luggage porters » 13 meals—6 breakfasts, 4 lunches, 3 dinners » All transfers » 9 small group activities

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Journey into the heart of the Balkans to discover the rich culture and hidden history of Serbia, from its laid-back university town of Nis—birthplace of the Roman emperor Constantine—to its vibrant capital of Belgrade, whose bright and bustling pedestrian boulevards have long ago shaken the dark days of Serbia’s past.

Day 1 Transfer to Nis, Serbia Afternoon: At about 3pm, we’ll check in to our hotel. Depending on where we stay, • Destination: Nis our hotel may feature on-site amenities • Included Meals: Lunch including a restaurant, bar, rooftop terrace, • Accommodations: Ambasador Hotel and fitness center. Typical rooms will feature or similar air-conditioning, satellite TV, safe, minibar, Morning: Around 8:30am, we depart our hotel and private bath with hair dryer. You’ll have to cross the border from Macedonia to Serbia. around 3.5 hours of free time to relax and Here, we will also change buses to continue explore the area before we meet our Trip our journey to Nis. Around 11am, we’ll stop by Experience Leader for a walk to discover the a local coffee shop to recharge for the rest of area at around 6:30pm. our journey. We’ll arrive around 1pm. Then, Dinner: On your own tonight. Perhaps you’ll we’ll take about a 15-minute walk to the Nis try Ćevapi, a typical dish made with grilled Archaeological Gallery, where we’ll admire meat wrapped in a flatbread, or bourek—a flaky exhibits of antiquities from the surrounding pastry either filled with ground beef, spinach region. We’ll then take a quick walk to a local and cheese, or potatoes and onions. restaurant for lunch. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Lunch: Around 1:45pm at a local restaurant rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip featuring regional cuisine. Experience Leader for recommendations.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

39 Freedom To Explore: During your two days glass and metal chapel also accompanies the in Nis, you have the freedom to explore this structure designed by Nis-based architect ancient city on your own during your free time. Aleksandar Buđevac, giving visitors a place to Below are a few recommended options for reflect at this solemn location. independent explorations: • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi • Try a local treat at Pelivan Pastry Shop: With ride, about $4.50 one way. its 150 years of history, this type of pastry • Hours: Open daily. shop started after a man used the winnings • Cost: Free. from a wrestling competition to open a store- font in Belgrade in 1851. Over the years, his Day 2 Explore Nis • Visit Nis Fortress & Red family opened similar shops throughout the Cross Concentration Camp country, and today they sell a wide selection • Destination: Nis of treats and cakes made using traditional • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner methods. Sample flaky while you • Accommodations: Ambasador Hotel sip on , a popular creamy, fermented or similar beverage, and people watch from the bakery’s Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian prime location in the city center. and American dishes beginning at 7am. • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. • Hours: 10am-8pm, Monday-Saturday. Morning: We’ll set off on a walking tour of • Cost: Free. Serbia’s third largest city around 8:30am with your Trip Experience Leader. Settled in • See the Parish of the Exaltation of the Holy pre-Roman times, the university town of Nis is Cross: Established as a small chapel in 1884 also the birthplace of Constantine, the Roman after Serbia’s liberation from the Ottoman emperor responsible for converting the entire Empire, the church has been expanded Roman Empire to Christianity. over the years and maintains a prominent place in Nis’s Catholic history. The church’s To begin, we’ll visit Nis Tower. The symbol establishment made Nis the first Serbian of the city, Nis Fortress is a Turkish-era city to house a Catholic parish and gave the fortification complex built in the early 18th city’s Catholic population, mostly made up of century over Roman and medieval foundations construction or railroad workers, a place to on the bank of the Nisava River. Then, we learn practice their faith. Today, visitors can admire Serbian history at a monument dedicated to the its ornate interior and classic architecture. 1809 Battle of Cegar and Cele Kula—or, “Tower • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute walk. of Skulls.” Following the Serbian defeat at the • Hours: Open daily. Battle of Cegar, victorious Turks embedded • Cost: Free. almost 1,000 skulls of dead in the fortress walls to deter future acts of rebellion (some 58 • Visit the Bubanj Memorial Site: Built on a are still there), and the Tower of Skulls remains site of mass executions during World War II, a proud symbol of Serbian resistance. We the hilltop memorial of three clenched fists continue on foot around 10:15am to stop by one remembers those who died here, symbolizing of the oldest churches in Serbia and the village their strength and resistance. Not too far from of Gornji Matejevac. the memorial, there is also a relief depicting the trauma and vistory of World War II. A

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

40 Lunch: On your own around noon. You may find of Karadjordje, the man who led the Serbian a restaurant that serves Karadjordje’s schnitzel, uprising against Turkish rule in 1804. Our or pork stuffed with a local cheese and discoveries include the final resting place of fried, or mućkalica, a containing barbecued Karadjordje and 22 members of the Serbian meat and vegetables. royal family at the Royal Mausoleum Complex, situated inside St. George’s Church, a Afternoon: We’ll resume our city tour around magnificent five-domed church with marble 1:30pm and drive to the nearby memorial columns and vibrant mosaics rendered from museum of Crveni Krst (Red Cross), home millions of pieces of colored glass. Then, we’ll to one of Europe’s best-preserved Nazi stop around 1pm in Arandjelovac, a spa town concentration camps. Some 30,000 Serbs, renowned for its healing waters. Roma, Jews, and Partisans were held (and about 10,000 killed) at this notorious camp during the Lunch: Around 1:30pm at a restaurant German occupation of Serbia from 1941 to 1945. dedicated to the memory of King Alexander I in We’ll round out today’s explorations of Nis with Arandjelovac. a visit to a tea house around 2:30pm, where Afternoon: Upon arrival in Belgrade around a local expert will help us discover the rich 4:30pm, we’ll check in to our hotel and enjoy variety of medicinal herbs used in the region. a brief orientation walk of our surroundings We return to the hotel around 3:30pm for some around 5pm. Depending on where we stay, our free time. We’ll meet again around 6:30 to head hotel may feature on-site amenities including to dinner by bus. a fitness center, spa, and restaurant. Typical Dinner: At about 7pm, we’ll enjoy a Welcome rooms will include complimentary wireless Dinner at a local restaurant serving traditional Internet access, a TV, a mini bar, a safe, coffee- Serbian cuisine. and tea-making facilities, and a private bath with a hair dryer. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Dinner: At about 7pm at a local restaurant Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. serving traditional hot and cold dishes. Perhaps you’ll enjoy the views from the hotel’s Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rooftop terrace. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Day 3 Transfer to Belgrade • Explore Topola and Oplenac Freedom To Explore: During your four days in Belgrade, you have the freedom to explore • Destination: Belgrade this capital city on your own during your free • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner time. Below are a few recommended options for • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar independent explorations: Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian • Explore the National Museum: Delve into and American dishes beginning at 7am. the history of Serbia and the Balkan region Morning: We’ll depart Nis at about 8:30am by perusing the museum’s collections of for our northern journey to Belgrade. Along ancient artifacts, European art, and more. the way, we’ll discover the origins of the Built in 1903 and reconstructed a number Serbian kingdom in Topola and Oplenac of times throughout the years, the museum around 11:30am. Topola was the birthplace features over 5000 square feet of exhibition

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

41 space spanning three floors. Perhaps the (a Serbian biscuit). The shop offers 26 flavors most celebrated works housed here are by per day, with much of the selection frequent- Croatian Ivan Mestrovic, a famous sculptor ly rotating. of the ; archaeolog- • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. ical artifacts from Roman-era Serbia; and • Hours: 10am-11pm, daily. extensive galleries featuring both 18th- and • Cost: Free. 19th-century Serbian art and 20th-century Yugoslavian art. In total, the museum collec- Day 4 Explore Belgrade • Optional From tion comprises approximately 400,000 pieces. Royalty to Today’s Belgrade tour • How to get there: A 5- to 10-minute walk. • Destination: Belgrade Hours: 10am-6pm, Tuesday, Wednesday, • • Included Meals: Breakfast Friday & Sunday; 12pm-8pm, Thursday & • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar Saturday; closed on Mondays. • Cost: About $5.50. Free on Sundays. Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian and American dishes beginning at 7am. • Browse the shelves at the Sava Perfume Shop: Experience a bygone era when you step Morning: We’ll set off on foot around 9am for into this perfume shop, located on one of the an enlightening city tour of Serbia’s capital and oldest streets in Belgrade. Peruse the rows largest city. Belgrade (meaning “White City”) of unbranded scents handmade by Belgrade enjoys a prime location at the confluence of perfumer, Nenad Jovanov, whose parents the Sava and Danube rivers—which helps to founded the shop. Opened in the 1950s and explain the countless times the city has been one of the last traditional perfumeries in rebuilt during its vast 2,300-year history. the city, the scents are mixed in a private In fact, Kalemegdan Citadel, Belgrade’s room behind a heavy curtain, labeled by a impressive fortress at the bend of the two typewriter, and dispersed from a 1930s hand rivers, has been destroyed more than 40 pump. Expect to spend between $5-$10 USD times over the centuries. We begin with a walk for a small bottle. through Trg Republike, the city’s main square • How to get there: A 10- to 15-minute walk. and popular gathering place for locals and • Hours: 10am-1pm & 4pm-7pm, Monday- visitors alike, passing by the National Museum Friday; 10am-2pm, Saturday; closed on and Kalemegdan Park, where we’ll stop to visit Sunday. the renowned . Then, our • Cost: Free. tour continues by bus with a stop at the Church of St. Sava, the massive structure dominating • Treat yourself at Crna Ovca (Black Sheep) Ice Belgrade’s cityscape that is one of the world’s Cream: Get a taste of Belgrade at this local ice largest Orthodox churches. cream shop, where the owners use non-con- ventional flavors such as plum, kajmak Lunch: On your own beginning around cheese, gorgonzola, and peanut butter. Other 12:30pm. You may ask your Trip Experience popular flavors include creme brulee and Leader for recommendations. caramelized , , and Plazma Afternoon: The rest of the day is yours to seek out your own discoveries in Belgrade. Or, you may join an optional excursion, departing around 3pm. Our afternoon optional tour begins

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

42 with a visit to Belgrade’s Tito Memorial. At this unique locale hosts the Festival, a this structure erected to honor the memory of world-renowned music festival that takes place Josip Bros Tito, we’ll learn much more about each July. A walking tour featuring many of the the man who held Yugoslavia together during city’s historic landmarks will also bring us past the turmoil following World War II and the the Novi Sad , the fifth synagogue to subsequent Cold War. Then, we’ll visit the be erected here since the 18th century. residence and magnificent grounds and gardens Then, around 12:45pm, we’ll drive 30 minutes of the Royal Palace, current home of Crown to a farmhouse in the countryside outside Prince Alexander and his family. Novi Sad. Dinner: On your own, for those who don’t take Lunch: Around 1:30pm at the traditional the optional tour. Ask your Trip Experience farmhouse, featuring local dishes. Leader where you can find the best wedding cabbage, a popular local dish made of cooked Afternoon: We’ll depart by bus for Belgrade cabbage and smoked pork. For those who do around 2:30pm, arriving at about 3:30pm, and take the tour, it concludes with a memorable the rest of the day will be free for your own dinner at one of the many floating restaurants discoveries. lining the banks of the Danube. Dinner: On your own. Perhaps you’ll try djuvec, Evening: You have the freedom to spend the a stew containing rice, vegetables, and meat. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the You may seek out some of the local nightlife, or rest of your evening as you wish—ask your relax back at the hotel. Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Perhaps you’ll take advantage of the hotel’s Day 5 Excursion to Sremski Karlovci amenities, or simply relax in your room. and Novi Sad Day 6 Belgrade • Excursion to Kovacica • Destination: Belgrade • Destination: Belgrade • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar • Accommodations: Envoy Hotel or similar Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian and American dishes beginning at 7am. Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian and American dishes beginning at 7am. Morning: Today, we’ll set out at about 9am to discover the northern Serbian province of Morning: Today, around 9am, we’ll journey , beginning in Sremski Karlovci, a 1 hour by bus outside the city to Kovacica, a charming town set on the banks of the Danube. picturesque village that is world-renowned Arriving around 9:30am, we’ll set off on a for its school of Naïve art. Settled by ethnic walking tour to view its Baroque architecture. Slovaks early in the 19th century, Kovacica Then around 11am, we’ll journey to nearby Novi represents a unique oasis of living traditions, Sad, capital of the Vojvodina province. We’ll original arts and crafts, and a way of life drive by the Citadel, the towering seemingly untouched by modernity. The Naïve 17th-century fortress nicknamed “Gibraltar art tradition began in earnest here by two on the Danube.” In more modern times, local artists in 1939, and we’ll learn about this

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

43 enduring tradition at the Gallery of Naïve Art, Afternoon: We’ll depart for the 1.5-hour drive where we’ll visit with some artists at their back to Belgrade around 3pm, at which time ateliers. you’re free to make your own discoveries for the balance of the day. Around 12:15pm, we’ll also visit the home workshop of a local painter and the atelier Dinner: At about 7pm, we’ll gather together of violin maker Jan Nemček, who exports his for a Farewell Dinner in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s elegant instruments throughout the world. popular Bohemian quarter. Because of our small group size, we’ll get Evening: You have the freedom to spend the to interact closely with the people we meet, rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip coming to understand their passions as we ask Experience Leader for recommendations. questions and share stories with each other.

At approximately 1pm, we’ll depart for the Day 7 Depart for the U.S. 30-minute drive to our lunch spot for the day. • Included Meals: Breakfast Lunch: At a local farm restaurant in the village Breakfast: Served at the hotel featuring Serbian of Debeljaca around 1:30pm. and American dishes beginning at 7am.

Morning: Depending on the time of your flight, we’ll transfer to the airport for our return flights home.

OPTIONAL TOUR

From Royalty to Today’s Belgrade (Day 4 $105 per person) Our afternoon optional tour begins with a visit to Belgrade’s Tito Memorial. At this structure erected to honor the memory of Josip Bros Tito, we’ll learn much more about the man who held Yugoslavia together during the turmoil following World War II and the subsequent Cold War. Then, we’ll visit the residence and magnificent grounds and gardens of the Royal Palace, current home of Crown Prince Alexander and his family. Our optional tour concludes with a memorable dinner at one of the many floating restaurants lining the banks of the Danube.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

44 Northern Greece, Albania & RISK-FREE BOOKING POLICY: RESERVE WITH Macedonia: Ancient Lands of CONFIDENCE—NOW THROUGH 12/31/21 We will waive any change fees if you transfer to another departure date for Alexander the Great any reason—up until 24 hours prior to departure. See details at www.oattravel.com/riskfree-booking. 2021 Dates & Prices

J U N E - JULY; DEPART FROM APRIL MAY 5, 12 MAY 17-28 AUG 3 AUG 22 SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER

New York $ 4395 $ 4595 $ 4695 $ 4995 $ 4795 $ 4495 $ 4295 $ 4195

Boston, Houston, Miami $ 4595 $4795 $4895 $5195 $4995 $4695 $4495 $4395

Atlanta, Chicago, Los Angeles, $ 4695 $ 4895 $ 4995 $ 5295 $ 5095 $ 4795 $ 4595 $ 4495 San Francisco, Washington, DC

Dallas, Denver, Detroit, $ 4895 $ 5095 $ 5195 $ 5495 $ 5295 $ 4995 $ 4795 $ 4695 Minneapolis,

Philadelphia, Portland, San Diego, $ 4995 $ 5195 $ 5295 $ 5595 $ 5395 $ 5095 $ 4895 $ 4795 Seattle

Orlando, Tampa $ 5095 $5295 $5395 $5695 $5495 $5195 $4995 $4895

Additional departure cities are available. Upgrade to Business Class may be available for the international portion of your flight. Call for details.

MAY 17-28; JUNE; JULY; APRIL MAY 5, 12 SEPTEMBER AUGUST OCTOBER NOVEMBER Without international airfare $3295 $3495 $3395 $3695 $3195 $3095

GRE2021

Prices are per person. Airfare prices include government taxes, fees, and airline fuel surcharges. All prices and availability are effective as of the date of this publication, and are subject to change without notice. Standard Terms & Conditions apply, please visit our website: www.oattravel.com/tc. Every effort has been made to produce this information accurately. We reserve the right to correct errors.

For specific departure dates, current availability, and detailed pricing, visit www.oattravel.com/gre2021pricing

SAVE UP TO 10% WITH FREE SINGLE SUPPLEMENTS SHARE YOUR LOVE OF TRAVEL OUR GOOD BUY PLAN We offer FREE Single Supplements on all New travelers you refer will instantly save The earlier you reserve your departure of our adventures and pre- and post-trip $100, and you’ll earn increasing rewards— and pay in full, the more you’ll save—up extensions. up to a FREE trip! to 10%—plus, you’ll lock in your price. Each departure has limited solo space For details, visit www.oattravel.com/va For details, visit www.oattravel.com/gbd available—call today to reserve.

Publication Date 12/17/20

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/gre2021

45 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: For the main trip only, you will need 4 blank passport pages.

• Pre-trip extension to Crete: No additional pages needed.

• Post-trip extension to Serbia: You will need an additional blank passport page.

No Visas Required Travelers with a U.S. passport do not need any visas for this adventure, including the optional trip extensions.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.

Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.

46 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

47 RIGORS, VACCINES & GENERAL HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Experience Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

PACING • 7 locations in 17 days

• Early morning departures with 1 pre-dawn flight

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids

• You must be able to walk approximately 3 miles unassisted and be comfortable participating in 6-8 hours of physical activities each day

• Our activities on Day 8 include an elective hike on uneven surfaces for a minimum of 2 hours

• We reserve the right for Trip Experience Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

CLIMATE • Temperatures are mild and seasonable throughout most of the year, with the hottest temperatures in July and August averaging 80°F; temperatures begin dropping in November with the possibility of rain or even snow

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Walk on rugged paths and cobblestoned streets, and travel by bus over rural roads that may be bumpy and narrow

• Hikes along steep trails in Meteora and up and down hills in mountain villages in the Zagoria region; good hiking shoes are recommended for these activities

• Agility and balance are required for boarding or disembarking rafts on optional Vikos Gorge Rafting tour

• Travel by air-conditioned minibus, taxi, and small boat

ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • Hotel rooms are smaller than those in the U.S. and offer basic amenities

• All accommodations feature private baths with showers

48 MAXIMUM GROUP SIZE & LEADERSHIP • 16 travelers and 1 Trip Experience Leader

Albania & North Macedonia

• Roads in Albania and North Macedonia are underdeveloped. Be prepared for drives over bumpy terrain and poorly maintained roads with extremely basic roadside facilities.

Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

Vaccines Required

COVID-19 Overseas Adventure Travel requires that all travelers are fully vaccinated against COVID-19 and are able provide proof of their vaccination upon arrival at their destination. A full vaccination is defined as having been inoculated at least 14 days prior to departure by an approved vaccine. This requirement is not contingent on the countries the tour visits, but a strict company policy due to the nature of the pandemic.

Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness

• A pain medication. You might need this in the unlikely event of an injury in a location where medical attention would be delayed.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

49 We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

Staying Healthy on Your Trip Jet Lag Tips

• Start your trip well-rested.

• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies

If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water in Greece, North Macedonia, Albania, and Serbia is safe to drink, but is processed differently than in the U.S. so it can still upset your stomach or feel “heavy”. Therefore, we suggest drinking bottle water instead.

• Bottled water is readily available and inexpensive. (Bottled water is not included in the price of your tour.)

• Inspect each bottle before you buy it to make sure the cap is sealed properly.

• When in doubt about the water, salads, or ice, just ask the restaurant or your Trip Experience Leader.

• It is OK to brush your teeth with tap water.

50 Food • We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals. Your Trip Experience Leader can suggest restaurants for the meal you take on your own.

• Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked .

51 MONEY MATTERS: LOCAL CURRENCY & TIPPING GUIDELINES

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high.

• You will not be able to pay with U.S. dollars on this trip; you will need local currency instead.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Euro Countries The euro is the official currency in many member countries of the European Union. Unless otherwise listed, the countries you will be visiting will use the euro. Euro banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euros

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents; 1 and 2 euros

Albania The Lek is the official currency of Albania. It is subdivided into 100 qindarka, although qindarka are no longer issued. The banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 200, 500, 1000, 2000, and 5000 lek

• Coins: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 lek

U.S. dollars are not accepted for payment in Albania; local currency is required. (Note: Leks are a restricted currency and cannot be exchanged outside of Albania.)

North Macedonia The Denar is the monetary unit of North Macedonia. It is subdivided into 100 deni. Denar banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 50, 100, 500, 1000, and 5000 denari

• Coins: 50 deni; 1, 2, 5, 10, and 50 denari

U.S. dollars are not widely accepted for payment in these countries; denari are preferred.

52 Serbia In Serbia, the official currency is the Dinar (RSD), made up of 100 paras. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and 5000 dinars (also called “dinara”)

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 dinara

How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets. Or you can wait and change money on the trip instead—but it might be helpful to arrive with some local currency in case you run into a bank holiday or an “out of order” ATM.

On your trip, the easiest way to obtain local currency is to withdraw funds from a local ATM. The ATM will give you local money and your bank at home will convert that into U.S. dollars.

You may be able to exchange cash at some hotels, large post offices, and money exchange offices, however they do not typically offer good exchange rates and can be difficult to find. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). New bills (post 2004) are best.

Please note that many banks in Europe will only exchange money for their own customers. Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$10 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

Greece: ATMs are very common in Greece and are readily available in large cities and small towns.

Albania: ATMs can be easily found in large cities and small towns but can be scarce in rural villages.

North Macedonia: ATMs are widely available in large cities and small towns but can be difficult to find in rural villages.

53 Serbia: ATMs can be readily found in large cities and small towns but can be scarce in rural villages.

Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

Greece: Credit cards are widely accepted in Greece. Some small shops and restaurants may still require cash so it always good to ask before making a purchase.

Albania: Credit cards are becoming more common in Albania, but there are still some smaller businesses and local restaurants that may require cash. Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

North Macedonia: Credit cards are widely accepted in North Macedonia. However, some types of businesses—street vendors, local restaurants, or “Mom and Pop” stores- are still largely “cash only.” Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

Serbia: Credit cards are readily accepted in Serbia. However, some smaller businesses, such as street vendors, local restaurants, or “Mom and Pop” stores, may be “cash only.” Cash only establishments are more common in the countryside than in cities. If you don’t see a credit card logo on the door or the cash register, then check with the cashier or server.

Chip Cards Many countries have adopted a new type of credit card that has an embedded computer chip. These cards are inserted into the reader instead of swiped. The card owner then authorizes the purchase using a PIN instead of signing.

This new technology is only now gaining traction in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in other countries that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) If you are not able to sign for a purchase, such as at an automated ticket booth, you can use another form of payment, such as a debit card that has a PIN.

54 Notify Card Providers of Upcoming Travel Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines.

• O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your Trip Experience Leader at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $8-$12 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person for each day their Trip Experience Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Trip Experience Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

• Housekeeping staff at hotels: $1-2 per room, per night

• Waiters: When dining as a group, your tip is included—there is no need for you to leave an additional tip. When dining on your own, you can simply round up the bill. Or if you want to leave a really nice tip for excellent service 10% of the check is suggested.

• Taxi drivers: Tipping is not customary, but many locals will round up the fare and let the driver keep the change.

Please Note: Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and optional extensions for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.

55 AIR, OPTIONAL TOURS & STAYING IN TOUCH

Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air Quick Definitions

• Land Only: You will be booking your own international flights. Airport transfers are not included.

• Air-Inclusive: You booked international air with us. Airport transfers are included as long as you didn’t customize your trip’s dates (see next bullet).

• Personalized Air: You booked international air with us, and have customized it in some way. If you have customized your trip’s dates to arrive early, stay longer, or stop on your own in a connecting city, airport transfers will NOT be included. You must also arrange your own accommodations for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations”.

Airport Transfers Can Be Purchased For eligible flights, airport transfers may be purchased separately as an optional add-on, subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

If you don’t meet the requirements above, you’ll need to make your own transfer arrangements. We suggest the to Rio website as a handy resource: www.rome2rio.com.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

56 • Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Experience Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Experience Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

Communicating with Home from Abroad

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).

One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

Internet Most hotels in the region will have Internet services available, some for free, some for an hourly charge. WiFi service is fairly common, but may be limited to a public area, like the lobby. If you’d like to use WiFi when and where it is available, you’ll need to bring your own device. Or you could chose to rely on hotel computers instead—many hotels will also offer a limited number of computers in the lobby or business center for guests to use.

57 How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Greece: +30 North Macedonia: +389

Albania: +355 Serbia: +381

58 PACKING: WHAT TO BRING & LUGGAGE LIMITS

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person.

Weight restrictions Varies by airline. The current standard is 50 lbs for checked bags and 15 lbs for carry-ons.

Size Restrictions Varies by airline. Measured in linear inches (length+width+depth). Generally, 62 linear inches is the checked bag limit; carry-on limit is 45 linear inches.

Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Please do not bring a hard-sided (clamshell) suitcase.

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Same as the main trip.

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy. Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent. However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question.

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.

59 Your Luggage • Checked Luggage: One duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.

• Carry-on Bag: You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

• Locks: For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions: Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle- resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.

• Outerwear: Rainfall can occur any time of year, so don’t forget a waterproof jacket, poncho, or folding umbrella. In early spring and winter, temperatures can be chilly—snowfall can begin as early as November. Late fall through early spring bring warm gear such as a fleece, sweaters, and a coat.

• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. We recommend you wear sturdy hiking boots or other supportive sports shoes that offer good traction. Some of our activities include hiking or walking on steep terrain covered by rocks, and loose gravel—so shoes with good traction are a must. Tennis shoes are not recommended for hiking.

Style Hints & Dress Codes • Dress on our trip is functional and casual. You might want to bring one slightly dressier outfit for dining on your own at nicer restaurants or for the Farewell Dinner, but that is completely up to you.

• Some religious sites, like Orthodox churches and Muslim mosques, strongly prefer that visitors of both genders dress modestly. In this context, “modestly dressed” usually means covered from shoulders to below the knees—no shorts, no sleeveless shirts, no low or revealing necklines, and women may be required to wear skirts below the knee.

• In many Orthodox churches or Muslim mosques, local women will cover their hair with a scarf; as a visitor you are usually not required to do the same, but doing so would be a nice way to show respect.

60 Suggested Packing Lists We have included suggestions from Trip Experience Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

And don’t forget a reusable water bottle—you’ll need it to take advantage of any refills we offer as we are working to eliminate single-use plastic bottles on all of our trips.

Recommended Clothing ‰Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts. Sleeveless tops are OK in some places, but when visiting religious sites a short-sleeved top is considered more appropriate.

‰Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. Avoid tight-fitting jeans; they can be uncomfortable, restrict movement, and are not considered appropriate.

‰Travel skirt: It is perfectly acceptable for women travelers to wear trousers or jeans through most of this trip, with a few exceptions. Please see “Style Hints and Dress Codes” for details

‰Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable with good arch support and good traction. Some types of shoes that would be good choices are sturdy walking shoes, running shoes, or trekking shoes.

‰Underwear and sleepwear. For women travelers: one or two sports bras—the roads are very bumpy.

‰Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ‰Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ‰Light cotton or wool sweater for cooler days. Even in summer, this can be useful as motor coach air conditioning can be cold.

Seasonal Clothing Recommendations In summer: ‰Walking shorts: knee-length shorts are OK for big cities. In more conservative areas trousers or a long skirt are preferable.

‰Light materials that breathe—cotton, linen, etc. Summer can bring extreme heat waves to the region.

61 ‰Swimsuit, for the occasional hotel pool

From late fall through early spring: ‰Warm clothing: A warm jacket (coat in the winter), long or thermal underwear, hat, and gloves are in order because temperatures can dip into the 40s and 30s. See the climate charts on the previous pages and pack accordingly.

‰Swimsuit: it might be too cold to swim in the Mediterranean, but a swimsuit could still be useful for an indoor hotel pool.

Essential Items ‰Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but if you are sensitive to fragrances or new products, you may wish to bring your preferred brands. Most hotels do not provide a washcloth, so you may wish to pack one.

‰Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses ‰Sunglasses ‰Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ‰Travel money bag or money belt ‰Light folding umbrella ‰Folding hiking pole, sold in most camping stores ‰Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ‰Pocket-size tissues ‰Moist towelettes (not individual packets) and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser

‰Electrical transformer & plug adapters

Medicines & First Aid Gear ‰Your own prescription medicines ‰Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.

62 ‰An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ‰Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes

Optional Gear ‰Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ‰Hanging toiletry bag (with hook to hang on doorknob and pockets to organize items) ‰Basic sewing kit ‰Insect repellent with DEET (30%-35% strength) ‰Travel journal/note pad and pens ‰Reading materials ‰Home address book ‰Photos or post cards from home, small gift for Home-Hosted visit ‰Phrase book ‰Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates

Electricity Abroad When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

Voltage Electricity in this region is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/ converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics

63 goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

Greece: C, D, E and F

Albania: C

North Macedonia: F

Serbia: F

Type C Type D Type E Type F

Availability Barring the occasional and unpredictable power outage, electricity is as readily available on this adventure as it is in the U.S.

64 CLIMATE & AVERAGE TEMPERATURES

Albania: Albania’s location in a transition zone means its climate is a cross between the typical warm Mediterranean climate and a cooler continental climate. Rainy winters and dry, hot summers are typical of the coastal plain. Away from the coast, summer rainfall is more frequent and the winters are colder, especially in the mountainous areas. In Tirana, summers are hot and humid while the winters tend to be mild.

North Macedonia: North Macedonia has three distinct climate regions. The region where the city of Ohrid is located has the classic Mediterranean climate. Like Greece, this area has plenty of sunshine and dry air most of the year, and winters tend to be mild. Whereas the climate for the capital of Macedonia, Skopje, has precipitation all year round.

Crete, Greece: Overall, Crete has similar weather to Athens, but the heat is never as intense in summer, and the winters are some of the mildest in the country. The moderating factors are the sea breezes and the persistent Etesian wind, which consistently wafts across the Aegean islands and Crete.

Greece: The coastal regions of Greece have an almost ideal climate—plenty of sunshine and dry air most of the year. During spring and early fall, days are generally very comfortable. Although temperatures usually range from 60 to 80 degrees, occasionally they reach extremes of warm and cold. From May to July beaches are less crowded than during the heart of the summer and the water can be warm enough for swimming. In spring, Athens’ surrounding hills come to life with gentle hues of green and colorful wild flowers. Coastal breezes often moderate summer heat, but on calm summer days, Athens can be very hot.

Serbia: Serbia has varied weather within three climatic areas. The Adriatic-Mediterranean climate near the coast is the warmest and mildest, with long, hot summers and short, rainy winters. A continental climate prevails on the Pannonian plain and central hills, with warm and dry summers and moderately cold and snowy winters. The third climate zone includes the higher altitudes, which have a mountainous climate, with short summers and very cold, snow-filled winters. Summers in Belgrade can be very hot, with temperatures in the 90s and high humidity.

Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

65 Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH THESSALONIKI, GREECE TIRANA, ALBANIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 49 to 34 81 to 69 1.4 53 to 36 -- 5.1 FEB 52 to 36 80 to 65 1.5 55 to 37 -- 5.8 MAR 58 to 40 83 to 62 1.6 57 to 38 -- 4.2 APR 66 to 46 84 to 57 1.5 65 to 46 -- 5.8 MAY 76 to 54 85 to 54 1.8 73 to 54 -- 5.7 JUN 85 to 61 77 to 45 1.2 82 to 60 -- 3.1 JUL 89 to 66 74 to 42 0.9 88 to 63 -- 1.5 AUG 88 to 65 75 to 45 0.8 90 to 63 -- 0.5 SEP 81 to 59 79 to 51 1.1 82 to 57 -- 1.6 OCT 70 to 51 83 to 63 1.6 73 to 50 -- 4.9 NOV 60 to 44 84 to 72 2.1 62 to 46 -- 6.0 DEC 52 to 37 83 to 72 2.2 56 to 38 -- 5.3

MONTH OHRID, NORTH MACEDONIA SKOPJE, NORTH MACEDONIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 40 to 31 83 to 69 -- 38 to 25 88 to 76 1.5 FEB 42 to 33 81 to 62 -- 46 to 29 86 to 63 1.4 MAR 50 to 38 82 to 56 -- 56 to 36 83 to 52 1.6 APR 56 to 44 79 to 56 -- 64 to 43 78 to 49 1.5 MAY 65 to 53 78 to 56 -- 73 to 50 78 to 50 2.3 JUN 72 to 59 73 to 52 -- 81 to 57 73 to 45 1.9 JUL 78 to 63 70 to 45 -- 86 to 60 69 to 39 1.4 AUG 78 to 63 73 to 44 -- 85 to 60 72 to 39 1.1 SEP 72 to 56 79 to 50 -- 79 to 53 79 to 42 1.4 OCT 61 to 49 83 to 61 -- 67 to 45 86 to 55 1.8 NOV 50 to 40 85 to 71 -- 51 to 35 89 to 72 2.3 DEC 42 to 34 84 to 72 -- 41 to 28 89 to 79 1.8

66 MONTH CHANIA, GREECE ATHENS, GREECE

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 57 to 46 -- 5.6 57 to 45 75 to 63 1.9 FEB 59 to 46 -- 4.4 57 to 45 75 to 62 1.6 MAR 63 to 48 -- 3.2 60 to 47 76 to 60 1.6 APR 68 to 52 -- 1.3 67 to 53 75 to 58 1.0 MAY 75 to 57 -- 0.5 75 to 60 73 to 54 0.6 JUN 84 to 64 -- 0.2 84 to 68 68 to 48 0.2 JUL 86 to 70 -- 0.0 89 to 73 58 to 41 0.2 AUG 86 to 68 -- 0.1 89 to 73 58 to 41 0.3 SEP 81 to 64 -- 0.7 83 to 67 64 to 47 0.4 OCT 73 to 59 -- 3.1 74 to 60 71 to 57 1.9 NOV 68 to 54 -- 2.9 66 to 54 76 to 64 2.2 DEC 61 to 48 -- 3.7 59 to 48 76 to 65 2.5

MONTH BELGRADE, SERBIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 40 to 30 89 to 82 1.8 FEB 45 to 32 87 to 73 1.6 MAR 54 to 39 83 to 59 1.9 APR 64 to 47 80 to 56 2.2 MAY 74 to 55 79 to 56 2.3 JUN 79 to 60 81 to 56 4.0 JUL 84 to 64 79 to 50 2.5 AUG 84 to 64 81 to 50 2.3 SEP 75 to 56 86 to 54 2.2 OCT 65 to 48 87 to 63 2.0 NOV 52 to 40 90 to 78 2.2 DEC 42 to 32 89 to 84 2.3

67 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE

O.A.T. Trip Experience Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Experience Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Experience Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Experience Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

Balkan Culture Playground of Zeus, Apollo, and Aphrodite, birthplace of the Olympic Games, academy of Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle, cradle of democracy and Western literature—although it’s relatively small in size, Greece has had a legendary influence on world culture. From its classical capital of Athens, to a countryside speckled with grand amphitheaters and sacred temples, to the sun-soaked islands that dot its coast, it’s no wonder mighty heroes and ancient thinkers found inspiration in this Mediterranean oasis.

In recent years, the country has fallen on harder times: A persistent economic crisis, frictions within the European Union, and immigration issues all present ongoing challenges. But in spite of it all, Greece’s indomitable spirit lives on through its most valuable asset—its people. Warm, proud, and gregarious, Greeks cling fiercely to their long-held traditions—including a love of family and a passion for their famous cuisine—while focusing on shaping their future in a modern world.

Due to its isolation on the Adriatic and Ionian Sea, Albania has long been a bridgehead for various nations and empires seeking to conquest new lands. They’ve been conquered by the Romans and Byzantines and suffered centuries of invasions from the Visigoths, Huns, Bulgars, and Slavs. The Ottoman Turks were the last to conquer this nation in the 15th century and essentially cut Albania off from Western civilization. Albania has lived in isolation through most of its turbulent history—in part due to the rugged mountainous terrain.

The country was closed to outsiders for much of the 20th century until the end of communism in 1991. As a result, Albania opened its borders, and travelers could finally experience the country’s sparkling beaches, crumbling ancient ruins, fortress towns, and awe-inspiring mountain ranges. Despite these years of isolation, Albanians are known for their warm and welcoming nature. Home to Muslims, Christians, and Jews, religious tolerance is one of the most important foundations of Albanian culture.

Part Balkan, part Mediterranean and rich in Greek, Roman and Ottoman heritage, Macedonia has a complex history and national identity. Macedonians trace their history and culture back to the time of Alexander the Great. Under his rule, the Macedonian Empire had power and territory across Greece, Thrace, Asia Minor, Egypt, Iran, Afghanistan, and .

68 Following Alexander the Great’s death and the end of the Macedonian Empire, Macedonia became part of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, and finally the . The Ottoman Empire occupied Macedonia until it was partitioned in 1912 and 1913 because of the Balkan Wars. The land was split between Bulgaria, Greece, Serbia, and Albania. Modern-day North Macedonia was formed as a republic under former Yugoslavia after World War II. In 1991, it obtained national independence.

There are cultural remnants of each country that has occupied Macedonia, including a strong Christian Orthodox culture—approximately 67% of the population identifies as Eastern Orthodox—an Islamic culture, and a small Jewish culture. While the country has only recently gained independence, modern-day Macedonians proudly associate their national identity with the ancient history and culture of Alexander the Great. However, the country often receives criticism and denial of their cultural identity based on technical claims surrounding ancient history. In fact, nations have blocked Macedonia’s entry into the European Union and NATO over these claims.

Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in Europe is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Consent is especially important if you want to take a photo of a child or minor—ask their parent for permission first. To get a great portrait, show interest in your subject and try to have a bit of social interaction to put them at ease. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK.

Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.

Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Most hotels will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set your own personal number). Please utilize them.

Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your wallet or money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

69 Hotel Courtesy in Greece Greek hotels do not allow food and beverages to be taken from their breakfast rooms, nor is it courteous to eat or drink food or beverages purchased elsewhere in hotel common rooms. In conformity with municipal laws to promote urban decorum, hotels do not allow hanging laundry on room balconies. Travel clotheslines, used in your bathroom, are a more private and effective solution.

Macedonia or North Macedonia? For many centuries the heartland of Alexander the Great was known simply as “Macedonia”. But over time, this region was divided by two different countries—one called Greece and one called Macedonia. To the Greeks “Macedonia” is a northern province within Greece and they were concerned that the country of Macedonia would try to claim Greek territory. To the Macedonians, using “Macedonia” was a symbol of their heritage and question of national pride. So the use of the name was controversial and widely discussed on both sides.

In 2019 a compromised was reached when the country formerly known as Macedonia changed its official name to “North Macedonia”. Because the name is still relatively new, you may see both in various places, such as online or on signs.

In this document, we use “Macedonia” when referring to the region at large—or when talking about historical events—and “North Macedonia” when referring to the present-day country.

Greek Cuisine A perfect Mediterranean climate. More than 6,000 islands and no mainland location more than 90 miles from the sea. Bountiful (and mostly organic) olive groves, fruit orchards, pastures, and vineyards. With all this richness, Greece has had no reason to change or complicate its cuisine in thousand of years. Here, it is the quality and freshness of simple ingredients that makes every dish a flavorful standout.

So let’s start as the Greeks do, with mesethes, or . These are frequently described as appetizers and though a specific may be offered as a first course, for most Greeks mezes is a separate event in and of itself. One goes out for mezes with friends and family, sharing various small plates of food, drinks, and conversation. You might be served olives or olive paste (pasta elias) to spread on breadsticks, chunks of feta or cheese, marithes (grilled octopus or smelts), keftedes (seasoned meatballs), kolokythokeftedes (zucchini fritters), or grape leaves (dolmathakia or just ) rolled and stuffed with rice, pine nuts, meat, or other seasonings. These will all be accompanied by (fish roe dip) tzatziki (yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip), melitzanosalata (eggplant dip), or fava (bean dip.)

Dishes that are popular all over Greece include the white bean soup called fasolatha; and moussaka, a layered casserole of eggplant, ground lamb, tomato sauce, and potatoes covered in béchamel sauce and cheese, and spiced with . Try also pastitsio, a lasagna-like dish made with pasta and ground beef or lamb, béchamel, cheese, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Stalls

70 everywhere sell gyros and souvlaki, which are chunks or slices of seasoned grilled meat (usually lamb or pork) with chopped tomatoes and onions in pita bread, with lashings of tzatziki. For something lighter, there’s spanakopita is a phyllo pastry layered with feta cheese and spinach.

In the morning, start your day with a bowl of Greek yogurt drizzled with honey. It will be creamier, thicker, and tastier than any you buy off American supermarket shelves. As you head out, you may see locals having coffee with koulouri – pretzel rings covered in sesame seeds.

As for regional specialties, the Aegean abounds with seafood such as (rockfish soup), cured , and various grilled whole fish drizzled with ladholemono (a lemon and oil dressing). But try also chick pea fritters from , kapama (kid goat stuffed with rice), and the tomatokeftedes (tomato fritters) of .

In the , look for arni me votana, a lamb casserole with vegetables, beans, tomatoes, potatoes and herbs. This region is also famous for kaimaki, a sweet cream topped with nuts and honey. is the signature dish of the Ionian islands, savory chicken or beef simmered in wine, cinnamon, garlic and spices. It’s often served with bucatini pasta, a nod to the area’s Venetian past. Elsewhere in western Greece you may find glyko kastano, a pudding with honey and orange. And in Thessaly, Macedonia, and parts of northern Greece, the influence of Ottoman and Balkan cultures means more and meat. Look for savory pites pies, or tzigerosarmades (rice balls with spiced lamb, pine nuts and .)

If you have room for dessert, there are many variations on the classic Greek baklava that involve honey and phyllo. Try also revani a moist cake with lemon and orange; buttery kourabiethes shortbread cookies; or the classic galatoboureko, filled with custard.

Albanian Cuisine Albanian food has many Greek and Turkish influences, so you’ll see familiar dishes like spinach in pastry (byrek), sweet baklava, and grilled qofte meatballs. But it differs in its use of dairy, creating unique dishes like the quiche-like darilike tave kosi; or a fried local cheese called kackavall. Vegetarians will love perime ne zgare (a mixed grill of eggplant, zucchini, onions, and peppers) or speca me gjize (peppers stuffed with rice, cottage cheese, and spices). On a hot day, try tarator, a cold soup of cucumber, garlic, , , vinegar, and spices.

Macedonian Cuisine Macedonians enjoy other foods that are common throughout the Balkans, including taratur (yogurt with shredded cucumber) and baklava. Macedonian specialties include (a sauce made from sweet red peppers), tavce gravce (baked beans), shopska salata (a salad combining sliced cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes with soft white cheese), and (pork chops and mushrooms in brown gravy). Another national favorite is pastrmajlija, an oval-shaped, fried dough pie topped with cubed meat.

71 Due to the long presence of the Ottoman Turks in the region, the traditional cuisine of North Macedonia not only has a Balkan and Mediterranean spin but also Turkish influences. Among the country’s dishes of Turkish origin are kebapcinja (grilled beef kebabs) and the burek, a flaky pastry often stuffed with cheese, meat, or spinach.

Serbian Cuisine Serbians love their meat—especially when it’s cooked pod sac style, in a covered pan until it’s fall-off-the-bone tender. Then there’s pljeksavica (“Serbian hamburger”) and karadjordjeva šnicla or schnitzel, a breaded veal cutlet smothered with tartar sauce. For a snack, try cvarci, crispy, salty pork rinds. Almost all of this will be served with ajvar, a garlicky, red pepper relish. And you can top it off with knedle, potato-dough dumplings stuffed with a plum and rolled in sugar and cinnamon.

But Serbian food isn’t all meat all the time! Vegetables and dairy get attention too. Some key dishes to look for include prebranac (a baked bean soup), sopska salad, or soft unripened cheeses called kajmak or mladi sir (similar to cottage cheese).

Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

Crafts & Souvenirs

Greece Specialties include handicrafts, gold and silver jewelry, embroidered shirts and dresses, fabrics, flokati rugs of fluffy sheep wool, pottery, onyx, marble, alabaster, and leather goods. These are available in the main shopping area downtown around Syntagma, Omonia, and squares as well as in Monastiraki, the flea market, where shopping sometimes involves bargaining. Some of the best jewelry comes from Ioannina, ceramics from Sifnos and Skopelos, and embroidery from Skryos, Crete, Lefkas, and Rhodes. Thessaly and Epirus regions specialize in flokati rugs.

72 Albania When visiting Albania, souvenirs you will want to keep an eye out for are homemade ceramics with traditional Albanian patterns, çifteli (a traditional guitar-like instrument), olive oil, a qilim (a handwoven rug), pupa (hand-knitted fabric slippers), bunker-shaped ashtrays, skënderbeu , and handmade jewelry.

North Macedonia When looking for souvenirs, look no further North Macedonia’s Ohrid pearls (made by two families, Filevi and Talevi, using a closely guarded secret technique), ajvar (a spread made with red bell peppers, , and oil), filigree jewelry, and opinci (traditional hand-made leather shoes).

Serbia Slovenia claims to have the finest wines of the region, but up-and-comer Serbia offers some wonderful options too—especially from the Oplenac region, considered the “Serbian Tuscany.” Other souvenirs you will want to bring home with you include: Yugoslavia memorabilia, traditional Serbian pottery, local honey, ajvar (red pepper dip), Licider heart (a traditional heart shaped cookie), handmade jewellery, ratluk (the Serbian answer to ), and pirot kilim (handmade flat tapestry rug made in Pirot).

U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

73 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Greece

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 50,949 square miles

• Capital: Athens

• Population: 10,775,643 (estimate)

• Languages: Greek

• Geography: The peninsula that constitutes mainland Greece is surrounded by more than 5000 islands, of which 220 are inhabited—169 have more than 150 inhabitants. The islands are divided into six groups: the , the Ionians, the Dodecanese, the islands of the Northeastern Aegean, the Sporades and the Saronic Gulf islands. The two largest islands, Crete and Evia, do not belong to any group. Roughly four-fifths of Greece is mountainous, with most land lying over 1500m (4920ft) above sea level. Epiros and Macedonia, in northern Greece, still have extensive forests, but goat grazing, felling and forest fires have seriously denuded the rest of the country.

• Religions: Greek Orthodox 98%, Muslim 1.3%, other 0.7%

• Time Zone: Greece is on Eastern European Time, two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (seven hours ahead of Eastern Time). Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: Greece

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/25 25th of March Greece celebrates a number of national 05/01 Labor Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling 08/15 Dormition of the Holy Virgin during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/28 The Ochi Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day

01/06 Epiphany 12/26 Synaxis of the Mother of God

Greece: A Brief History The glory that was Greece reached its pinnacle during the Classical period, between 500 and 300 BC. But the seeds for that golden age, which has stood for centuries as a beacon of Western civilization, were sown at least 700,000 years ago, when humans first appeared in Greece. But it was during the Bronze Age, around 3,000 BC, when three major Greek civilizations emerged.

74 The Cycladic culture of the Aegean islands was sustained by farming and seafaring. But the small island populations made it hard for larger, more complex societies to organize. Not so for the Minoans of Crete, who created a palace culture, a written system of language, and effective military and mercantile sectors. Had Crete not been wracked by natural disasters, the Minoans may have prevailed against the mainland Mycenaeans who landed around 1400 BC. But their star faded in 1100 BC, when the Dorians took over, and Greece entered a Dark Age.

Light dawned again around 800 B.C., when the Greeks came into contact with the Phoenicians. The Greeks borrowed their alphabet, which Homer used to record his epics. This was followed by the Persian Wars, which continued from 520 to 480 BC, and prompted some Greek city-states to form an alliance under Athens called the Delian League. When Persia was beaten in 461 BC, the leader Pericles presided over Athens’ golden age. He rebuilt the city, including its iconic Acropolis. Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides were writing plays; and Socrates and Plato were teaching. But when the Delian League clashed with the militaristic Peloponnesian League of Sparta, a Peloponnesian war persisted for 27 years, with Sparta prevailing.

Athens was conquered by Philip II of Macedon in 360 BC. When he was assassinated, his son Alexander (the Great) was embraced by Athens. Though Alexander built an empire that reached as far east as India, his death left Greece vulnerable. By 200 BC, Rome had annexed all of Greece, but they venerated the culture. Athens remained an important seat of learning until Justinian closed its philosophy schools in AD 529. Under Byzantine rule (AD 300–1200), many temples were modified to Christian use, and Athens became a provincial backwater.

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the Ottomans seized Athens and ruled for almost 400 years, during which time the Acropolis was desecrated. The Ottoman yoke was shaken off with the bloody 1829 War of Independence. Through the intervention of Britain, France, and Russia, Greece became a monarchy whose kings were largely foreigners. This helped to keep Greece out of , but World War II was another story. The country was overrun by Hitler and the civilian population suffered greatly. More than half the nation’s Jews were murdered.

In 1944, civil war broke out between the communist and monarchist resistance groups who had helped defeat the Nazis. It lasted for three years and took more lives than the entirety of World War II. A diaspora ensued, with many Greeks fleeing to Australia, the United States, and Canada. Greece joined NATO in 1952 and continued to be ruled as a monarchy until 1967, when former King Constantine fled Greece after a military junta. In 1974, democracy was restored and the monarchy was abolished in favor of a republic. In 1981, Greece joined the European Union.

The focus for 21st century Greece has been its economy. Integration with Europe brought a rising standard of living, but also skyrocketing costs and a serious debt crisis. This threatened to take down the EU, which provided bailouts that required strict austerity. Greeks endured record unemployment, protests, and successive governments. By 2018, Greece’s credit rating improved and in 2019, the center-right New Democracy party of Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis won a landslide election, with a term ending in 2022.

75 Albania

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 11,100 square miles

• Capital: Tirana

• Languages: Albanian

• Geography: Occupying an area slightly smaller than Maryland, Albania lies between Greece to the south and Montenegro and Kosovo to the north. The geography is mostly mountains and hills, small plains along the coast, with farmland in between the two.

• Population: 3,029,278 (estimate)

• Religions: Muslim 56.7%, Roman Catholic 10%, Orthodox 6.8%, atheist 2.5%, Bektashi 2.1%, other 5.7%, unspecified 16.2%

• Time Zone: Albania is on Central European Time (six hours ahead of Eastern Time). Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: Albania

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/22 Nevruz Day Albania celebrates a number of national 05/01 Labour Day/May Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Ramadan. To find out if you will be 10/19 Mother Teresa Beatification Day traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 11/28 Independence Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 11/29 Liberation Day

03/14 Summer Day 12/8 National Youth Day

12/25 Christmas Day

Albania: A Brief History Though many of the former Yugoslav republics can trace their ancient roots to the Illyrian people, Albania has the strongest connection to these seafaring marauders. The is directly descended from Illyrian, and is completely distinct from Serbo-Croatian or any other European language.

When the Roman Empire split into its eastern and western spheres, Illyria fell within the eastern or Byzantine realm. Gradually, Illyrian pantheism was replaced by Eastern Orthodoxy. By the late Middle Ages, urban Albanian society prospered both culturally and economically, thanks to its wealthy mercantile class, and education and the arts flowered.

76 Byzantine rule declined as waves of Bulgarians, Venetians, Normans and Serbians took over. Then the Turks began invading Illyria in 1388, occupying all of it by 1479. An important effect of this was the Islamization of the people. Under Ottoman laws, Christian families had to give up one son to convert to Islam and serve in the military, but Muslim families were exempt. As a result, many Albanians embraced the new faith. The Turks ruled for 400 years.

When an Albanian independence movement arose in 1878, it was put down by the Turkish army in 1881. But the dream of nationhood did not die. Uprisings took place in 1910 and 1912 that resulted in the formation of an independent Albania. But the Great (Britain, France, Germany, Russia, - and ) intervened, ceding the provinces of Kosovo to Serbia, and Çamëria to Greece. This left many ethnic Albanians outside the national borders. During World War I, the weak new nation was occupied by various neighbors. After the war, a deal to partition Albania among its neighbors was thwarted by US President Woodrow Wilson.

A republican government formed in 1920, but was overthrown in 1924 by Ahmed Bey Zogu, who declared himself king. He allied himself with Italy, until Mussolini invaded in 1939. Albania was occupied by the Nazis in 1943, but by 1944, it was liberated by the communist-led resistance. Its leader, Enver Hoxha, became Supreme Comrade of the People’s Republic of Albania.

Hoxha undertook a radical modernization program that included agrarian reform, the nationalization of industries, the eradication of poverty and illiteracy, and elevation of women’s status. It also instituted brutal purges and suppressed all civil liberties, foreign travel, and religion. Albania received substantial aid from the Soviet Union and China, but over time, Hoxha broke ties with those regimes, accusing them of having betrayed Marxist ideals in favor of rapprochement with the west. An isolated Albania suffered food shortages and widening unrest.

When Hoxha died in 1985, his successor, Ramiz Alia, instituted some democratic reforms, but failed to deliver on most promises and was ousted. The country descended into chaos, as smuggling operations and drug and human trafficking proliferated, and peasants were forced off farms. A 1997 pyramid investment scheme (which may have been supported by the government) robbed about 70% of Albanians of their savings. Widespread rioting ensued.

In the 2005 elections, the Democratic Party staged a comeback, promising to tackle crime and corruption. Progress on these and other fronts gained Albania’s entry into NATO in 2009. Since 2015, the Socialist Party has gained power, subsequent elections have been peaceful, and Albania is further integrated with the west. This brings the elusive goal of EU membership more within Albania’s reach.

North Macedonia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 9,928 square miles

• Capital: Skopje

• Languages: Macedonian is the official language

77 • Ethnicities: Macedonian 64.2%, Albanian 25.2%, Turkish 3.9%, Roma (Gypsy) 2.7%, Serb 1.8%, other 2.2%

• Location: North Macedonia is in Southeastern Europe, located north of Greece.

• Geography: Occupying an area slightly larger than Vermont, North Macedonia lies between Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, and Serbia. North Macedonia has mountainous territory covered with deep basins and valleys.

• Population: 2,096,015 (estimate)

• Religion: Macedonian Orthodox 64.8%, Muslim 33.3%, other Christian 0.4%, other and unspecified 1.5%

• Time Zone: North Macedonia is on Central European Time (six hours ahead of Eastern Time). Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: North Macedonia

In addition to the holidays listed below, North 05/24 Saints Cyril and Methodius’ Day Macedonia celebrates a number of national 08/02 Republic Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Eid al-Fitr. To find out if you will 09/08 Independence Day be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/11 Day of People’s Uprising

01/01 New Year’s Day 10/23 Day of the Macedonian Revolutionary Struggle 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day 12/08 Saint Kliment Ohridski’s Day 05/01 Labour Day

North Macedonia: A Brief History Pre-14th Century

Today North Macedonia can boast a long and rich history with various cultural influences over the centuries, from the Ancient Greeks to the Ottoman Empire, from Serbian rule to independence. Under Philip II and his son Alexander the Great during the 4th century B.C., the Kingdom of Macedonia experienced a period of great expansion, though the states they established were not very long-lasting. It was not until the Romans arrived towards the end of the 3rd century that the region began to stabilize. The Romans divided the area into two sections, the first under Byzantium rule, and the second under the influence of Orthodox Christianity. Under the Roman Empire, many roads and sites were constructed that still exist today.

After the introduction of Christianity, two monks known as Saints Cyril and Methodius were sent to the region in the 9th century A.D. to spread their teachings. They are attributed with creating an alphabet that later became the Cyrillic alphabet, uniting an aspect of the various Slavic cultures. Despite this commonality, wars still erupted between Byzantium and the Slavs in

78 modern-day Bulgaria until Byzantium won the Battle of Belasica and took over Macedonia once again. Eventually Serbian rule developed in the 12th century and under Stefan Dušan, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, and parts of Bosnia and Serbia were united under the .

The Ottoman Empire

The Serbians remained in power until 1389 when the Ottoman Empire defeated the Slavs in the and by the end of the 14th century, Macedonia was under Ottoman rule. During this period, there were many Turkish influences on Macedonian culture and economics as they continued to rule until 1913. After the decline of Turkish rule under the Ottoman Empire, following the end of the first Balkan War, the surrounding states, including Serbia, Montenegro, Greece, and Bulgaria, divided the remains of the Ottoman Empire and established boundaries through the Treaty of Bucharest in 1913.

World War I

Throughout World War I, Macedonia was occupied by Bulgaria and upon the end of the war in 1918, Macedonia was incorporated into Serbia again. Serbia, , and Slovenia then joined together as Yugoslavia in 1929. During the Second World War, Yugoslavia was invaded and divided between the Axis powers. Macedonia was occupied once again by Bulgaria until 1945 when Yugoslavia was reformed under communist control as six republics, including Macedonia.

Independence

On September 8, 1991, the Republic of Macedonia gained their independence after 74% of Macedonians voted to secede from Yugoslavia and form their own autonomous state. Since declaring their independence, Macedonia has faced a lot of opposition from Greece regarding the name of their new republic. Greece argued that the name “Macedonia” came from the Ancient Greeks and in using it for the newly established Republic, it would foster the desire to reclaim Greek Makadonían territories. Because of its fears that Macedonia would try to reclaim these territories, Greece did all it could to prevent Macedonia from entering into the United Nations and other organizations. It was not until a temporary name, the “Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia”, was established that Greece allowed Macedonia to enter into the United Nations. In 2019, a compromise was reached between the two nations when the country officially changed its name to “North Macedonia”.

Serbia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 29,913 square miles

• Capital: Belgrade

• Language: Serbian is the official language. Albanian is also spoken.

79 • Location: Serbia is a landlocked country in central and southeastern Europe, covering the central part of the Balkan Peninsula and the southern part of the Pannonian Plain. Serbia borders Hungary to the north; Romania and Bulgaria to the east; the Republic of North Macedonia and Albania to the south; and Montenegro, Croatia, and to the west.

• Geography: Serbia’s is slightly smaller than South Carolina, and its northern region is rich with fertile plains, where as its eastern region has limestone ranges and basins. The southeast features a mountainous landscape.

• Population: 6,926,705 (estimate)

• Religion: Serbian Orthodox 84.6%, Catholic 5%, Muslim 3.1%, Protestant 1%, atheist 1.1%, unknown 4.5%.

• Time Zone: Serbia is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of North American Eastern Time. Daylight Saving Time goes from the last Sunday of March to the last Sunday of October.

National Holidays: Serbia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 02/15 Statehood of the Republic of Serbia Serbia celebrates a number of national 02/16 Statehood of the Republic of holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such Serbia (Day 2) as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www. 05/01 Labour Day timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/02 Labour Day (Day 2) 01/01 New Year’s Day 11/11 Armistice Day 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day

Serbia: A Brief History Like its neighbors, Serbia was settled by Illyrians and Celts; subsumed into the Roman Empire; and inhabited by waves of Slavic people. The Slavs merged with native Illyrians, Thracians and Dacians to form the ethnic base of the Serbian people. The next nation-shaping event occurred in AD 395, when the Roman Empire split into eastern and western spheres, and Serbia became part of the eastern realm. Subsequent proselytizing by saints Cyril and Methodius led the Serbs to embrace the Orthodox religion, which is still the heart of the Serb national identity.

That identity began forming in 1166 when , a Raskan chief, formed the first Serbian kingdom. His successors in the Nemanjic dynasty expanded it from the Danube to the Peloponnessus. Through shrewd diplomacy, King Stefan was recognized by the Pope Honorius III, and his brother Sava was granted an archbishopric by the Patriarch of Constantinople. This established the first independent Serbian Orthodox church, with as its head.

80 In 1389, the Serbs fought the Ottomans at the Battle of Kosovo. Though the battle ended in a draw, for Serbs it took on mythic proportions: Kosovo came to symbolize their national suffering, in which Serbs sacrificed their lives for their religious ideals. In truth, the Serbs were granted several decades to recover, as the Turks had suffered too many casualties to push on. It was only in 1459 that the Ottomans resumed their takeover; by 1521, Serbia was fully occupied.

The Ottomans dismantled most of Serbian society—except for the Serbian Orthodox church. The Ottoman administrative system revolved around the extraction of revenues and was not concerned with converting subjects to Islam. Instead, they required the Christian ecclesiastical authorities to serve as their functionaries. Still, frequent Serbian peasant uprisings broke out and a revolt in 1815 gained the Serbs a degree of autonomy; by 1878, Serbia achieved full statehood. When the first World War ended and with it, the Hapsburg dynasty, a new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes emerged. It became the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929.

When the Nazis invaded in World War II, the Yugoslav state was divided among the Axis nations. The Croatian Ustase government, who were Nazi puppets, waged a genocidal campaign against Jews, Serbs, and Roma people. Two major resistance groups emerged: the communist partisans under Tito, and the Chetnik royalists. They were so bitterly opposed that they turned on each other. By 1944, the communist partisans (with Allied support) overwhelmed the Nazis. Serbia joined the new Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia under Marshal Tito.

In the postwar years, the crimes committed by the various Yugoslav groups during World War II were never addressed. After Tito’s death, Serbian nationalists began to push for a “Greater Serbia” that included ethnic Serbian communities in neighboring republics. As one after another of the six Yugoslav republics declared independence, the Serbian controlled Yugoslav army reacted with violence, and the peninsula was ravaged by ethnic cleansing. It mainly affected Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, but the Serbs repeated the same tactics in 1998 when they attempted to suppress cries for autonomy in Kosovo. It was only after weeks of NATO air strikes against Serb military targets that Serbia agreed to a peace proposal.

This century saw the complete dissolution of Yugoslavia with the independence of Montenegro and Kosovo. Serbian President Slobodan Milosevic was tried for war crimes, but died before he could be convicted. Serbia has normalized relations with Kosovo, and both nations are candidates for accession to the EU, with hopes for full membership by 2025.

81 RESOURCES

Suggested Reading

General Complete Mediterranean Wildlife by Paul Sterry (Field Guide) An illustrated survey of the plants, animals, birds, insects, marine mammals, and other wildlife of the Mediterranean region. May only be available through special order or online, but useful for a nature enthusiast.

The Ancient Mariners: Seafarers and Sea Fighters of the Mediterranean in Ancient Times by Lionel Casson (History) The classic review of the Mediterranean’s seafaring history, with a focus on the Greek and Roman empires. Originally written in 1959, but revised in the 1980’s and 1990’s.

Greece The King Must Die and The Bull From the Sea by Mary Renault (Fiction) Modern retellings of the Greek myth of Theseus and the Minotaur. Recommended by travelers.

The Rise of Athens: The Story of the World’s Greatest Civilization by Anthony Everitt (2017, History) This book traces the origins of modern Athens and goes well beyond it, with plenty of entertaining detail about the figures who made it great, as well as those who contributed to its demise.

Holy Madness of Modern Greeks: An Introduction to the Ways of the Greeks by Theodore Pagiavlas (2016, Social History) The Greeks are often described as “passionate,” but what makes them so? This book offers a detailed examination of the most important aspects of Greek culture, amusing anecdotes about the figures who gave rise to it, and reasoned explanations of the beliefs and behaviors inspired by it all.

Little Infamies by Panos Karnezis (2003, Fiction) These magical and darkly funny stories take place in an unnamed Greek village (likely in the Peloponnesus), whose animal and human inhabitants (the village prostitute, a centaur, a wily doctor, a Homer-reciting parrot) reveal the secrets of their neighbors.

Eleni by Nicola Gage (2010, Biography/History) The moving true story of a Greek mother who dared to arrange an escape for her four children from a communist labor camp in the late 1940s, and paid the ultimate price. Written by her son, a New York Times reporter.

Mythology: Timeless Tales of Gods and Heroes by Edith Hamilton (1942, Mythology) This classic introduction to Greek and Roman mythology is still used as the standard in high schools and colleges throughout the U.S. From the Olympians to the Trojan War, Hamilton presents the myths and adventure stories of the ancient world in a clear and accessible manner.

A Concise History of Greece by Richard Clogg (History) An introductory illustrated , from the late 18th-century national movement to the present.

82 Ancient Greece: Art, Architecture, and History by Marina Belozerskaya and Kenneth Lapatin (Art/ Architecture) A lively guide to the architecture, painting, and sculpture of ancient Greece with color illustrations.

Corelli’s Mandolin by Louis De Bernieres (Fiction) This novel about village life on a Greek island during the Italian occupation in the 1940s explores the difficult choices facing a young woman in love during wartime.

Dinner with Persephone by Patricia Storace (Travel Narrative) An American fluent in Greek, Storace recalls a year of living and traveling there and the complexities, heartbreak, humor, and resilience of a people rooted in their glorious past, yet uncertain of the future.

Eleni by Nicola Gage (Biography/History) The moving and tragic true story of a Greek mother who dared to arrange an escape for her four children from a communist labor camp in the late 1940s.

Greek Mythology by Edith Hamilton (Mythology) The classic introduction to Greek and Roman mythology that is used as the standard in high schools and colleges throughout the U.S.. From the Olympians to the Trojan War, Hamilton presents the myths and adventure stories of the ancient world in a clear and accessible manner.

The Colossus of Maroussi by Henry Miller (Travel Narrative) The soul of Greece circa 1939. Miller captures the spirit and warmth of the resilient Greek people in this tale of a wartime journey from Athens to Crete, , and Delphi with his friend Lawrence Durrell.

The Parthenon by Mary Beard (History) An absorbing tale of the construction of the 2,500-year- old Athenian monument by a Cambridge University classicist.

Albania The Sworn Virgin by Kristopher Dukes (Historical Fiction) When Eleanora’s father dies in the 1910s, she takes on a new role in her village as a “sworn virgin”—an Albanian tradition that let women take over as the head of the household.

The Albanians: A Modern History by Miranda Vickers (History) An historical account that traces the history of the Albanian people from the Ottoman era to the formation of the Albanian Communist Party.

Chronicle in Stone by Ismail Kadare (Literature) A fictionalized account of the author’s own experiences during World War II, this novel follows a sensitive boy struggling to grow up in an occupied town near the Albanian-Greek border. The author is considered one of Albania’s most famous writers.

North Macedonia Alexander the Great: The Story of an Ancient Life by Thomas R. Martin and Christopher W. Blackwell (Biography/History) An in depth analysis that answers the question about what made Alexander “Great.”

83 Blood Ties: Religion, Violence and the Politics of Nationhood in Ottoman Macedonia, 1878-1908 by Ipek K. Yosmaoglu (History) A history which focuses on the final decades of Ottoman rule in the region known today as North Macedonia.

Fire from Heaven by Mary Renault (Novel) An acclaimed historical novel set during the time of Alexander the Great’s early childhood and youth. This novel was the inspiration for Oliver Stone’s film Alexander.

Serbia With Their Backs To The World: Portraits from Serbia by Åsne Seierstad (Nonfiction) Norwegian journalist Seierstad conducted extensive interviews with ordinary Serbs from across the political and ethnic spectrum—a farmer, a rock star, a priest and more—to create this detailed tapestry of modern Serbian life.

Serbia: The History of an Idea by Stevan K. Pavlowitch (History) A readable history focusing on the nineteenth and twentieth centuries of Serbia.

Suggested Film & Video

Greece Mamma Mia! (2008) and Mamma Mia, Here We Go Again (2018) (Musical Comedy) Yes, there is Meryl Streep and an all-star cast. Yes, there are the bouncy, nostalgic soundtracks based on hits by the 70s supergroup, ABBA. But there are also idyllic Greek islands, and whimsical fantasies about the life you could live there.

Zorba the Greek (1964, Comedy/Drama) This classic still stands the test of time. Anthony Quinn plays the iconic Zorba, a lusty and exuberant musician, who strikes up a friendship with an uptight Englishman (Alan Bates) during a picaresque adventure in Greece.

Troy (2004, Drama) This may not have been 2004’s best film, but it was its highest grossing one, thanks to an all-star cast (Brad Pitt, Peter O’Toole, Brian Cox, Diane Kruger, and Orlando Bloom), sweeping sets, and an epic story based on Homer’s Iliad. It concerns the motivations of the central characters as they reach their destinies during the historic battle between the Trojans, and the various Greek armies at their gates.

Shirley Valentine (1989, Comedy) An unappreciated British housewife accepts an invitation to Greece with a friend, and finds the escape she’s been looking for.

My Life in Ruins (2009, Comedy) A romantic comedy about a tour guide (Nia Vardalos) set among the ruins of . Vardalos also wrote and starred in My Big Fat Greek Wedding.

Never on Sunday (1960, Comedy) A classics scholar tries to steer a Greek call girl towards a moral life, but gets turned around himself in this modern take on the Pygmalion myth. Wrtten by and starring director Jules Dassin the film also stars his wife, Melina Mercouri, who became a political activist and Greece’s first female Minister of Culture.

84 The Guns of Navarone (1961, Action) Follows six Allied and Greek soldiers as they try to disable the two German guns that are preventing the evacuation of British troops from a Greek island in WWII. But the real heavy artillery is the cast—Peck, Niven, and Quinn all won at least one Oscar each during their distinguished careers.

Albania The Forgiveness of Blood (2011, Drama) Medieval mores and modern dreams clash in this tale of teenaged siblings Nik and Rudina. Their lives are upended by Albania’s centuries-old tradition of the blood feud, or Kanun, when their father and uncle kill a neighbor during a land dispute.

North Macedonia Alexander (2004, Action) An epic historical drama based off of the life of Alexander the Great. The film was inspired by Mary Renault’s historical novel Fire from Heaven.

Willow (2019, Drama) This film follows one medieval woman and two modern-day women as they struggle to become mothers. These women face issues of control over their own bodies, tradition, and adoption.

Before the Rain (1994, Drama) This critically acclaimed drama presents three intersecting romantic storylines set in Macedonia and London. When a mysterious incident takes place in the Macedonian mountains, it threatens to start a civil war but brings together a young monk, a London picture editor, and a war photographer.

Serbia Fuse (2003, Comedy) Two years after the Bosnian civil war, a small town that is plagued by corruption, prostitution, and organized crime must quickly organize a democracy when it’s announced that U.S. President Bill Clinton will be paying a visit.

Circles (2013, Drama) Inspired by the true story of a Bosnian-Serb soldier who was murdered protecting a Muslim civilian from three fellow soldiers during the Bosnian War, this film delves into the deep repercussions of this tragic act through three parallel perspectives. Nebojša, who witnessed the death of his best friend, overcomes his guilty conscience; Haris risks everything in order to return the favor to the person who saved his life; and the murderer’s son meets the fallen hero’s father.

85 Useful Websites

Overseas Adventure Travel World Weather www.oattravel.com www.intellicast.com www.weather.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.wunderground.com www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) Overseas Adventure Travel Frequently www.travlang.com/languages Asked Questions www.oattravel.com/faq Packing Tips www.travelite.org International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) U.S. Customs & Border Protection http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.cbp.gov/travel

Electricity & Plugs Transportation Security www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ Administration (TSA) plugs-and-sockets www.tsa.gov

Foreign Exchange Rates National Passport Information Center www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.travel.state.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic Holidays Worldwide ATM Locators www.timeanddate.com/holidays www.mastercard.com/atm www.visa.com/atmlocator

86 VACCINATIONS NOW REQUIRED FOR ALL TRAVELERS, SHIP CREW, TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS, AND COACH DRIVERS Plus, updated Health & Safety Protocols for our Land Tours

The health and safety of our travelers is always our #1 priority, and we understand travelers are concerned about exploring the world in light of the unprecedented crisis we are currently facing. To ensure your safety and give you peace of mind, we have worked with our regional team and listened to government guidance and feedback from our travelers to create these health and safety protocols for our trips. As we continue to make changes, we will keep our website updated with the latest information.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS • All travelers, ship crew, and Trip Experience AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY Leaders will have their temperature checked PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL SHIP every time they return to the ship using a non- ADVENTURES contact infrared temperature scanner. • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against • All meals are served by the dining staff— COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure buffets are no longer available. and provide proof of vaccination upon VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS AND boarding the ship. If you are unable to UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY PROTOCOLS provide proof of vaccination upon arrival at FOR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURES ON LAND your destination, you will have to return • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against home at your own expense. COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure. If To meet this requirement, please bring your you are unable to provide proof of vaccination original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card upon arrival at your destination, you will with you on your trip. The white card must have to return home at your own expense. display your name, type of vaccine, and the To meet this requirement, please bring your date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card with suggest taking a picture of this card to keep for you on your trip. The white card must display your records as a backup. your name, type of vaccine, and the date(s) • All local Trip Experience Leaders, the vaccine was administered. We also suggest ship staff, and crew will be fully taking a picture of this card to keep for your vaccinated against COVID-19. records as a backup. • All coach drivers will be fully • All local Trip Experience Leaders will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. vaccinated against COVID-19. • All public areas will be sanitized nightly and • All coach drivers will be fully vaccinated all ships are equipped with High Efficiency against COVID-19. Particulate Air (HEPA) filters.

Help us ensure travelers’ safety and health while on our trips. Please follow best health and hygiene practices to prevent the spread of illness—wash your hands regularly and cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing. Together, we can create a safer travel experience for everyone.

Learn more at www.oattravel.com/covid-update

87 Notes

88 Notes

89 Notes

90

A

I

R A

G

L U IA B AN K E Y M T U R O R e b a u e n S a n Heraklion D a Niš g e A e

MACEDONIA

KOSOVO

Skopje Thessaloniki CRETE

SERBIA Chania

Belgrade Athens Sea PRE-TRIP EXTENSION Ionian GREECE

MONTENEGRO Sea

BOSNIA & Adriatic

HERZEGOVINA POST-TRIP EXTENSION Thessaloniki Vergina Mt. Olympus Mt. Meteora Skopje Matka Canyon Metsovo MACEDONIA GREECE Ioannina Ohrid L. Ohrid Vitsa Vikos Gorge tour) (Optional Zagoria Tetova Gjirokaster Berat Butrint (Optional tour) (Optional Kruje ALBANIA Tirana Miles To/From U.S. Internal flight Land route Sea 050 Adriatic

91 YOUR TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADER

Your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader is an insider who lives in the destinations you are exploring. They are not just knowledgeable, but personable and personal—eager to understand your own interests, and happy to share their own. This makes all the diff erence between just visiting a place, and experiencing its true spirit.

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