Fermented Foods

Fermented food doesn’t require an added acidic liquid or heat, and can be accomplished with as little as a container and salt. It’s one of the oldest and most basic means of preserving food. The process takes longer than pickling and ultimately alters the food’s colour, flavour, and texture.

Fruits and vegetables contain natural bacteria that, when deprived of air, can suppress and inhibit the growth of other microbes that would cause spoilage. During the fermentation process, these natural bacteria convert the carbs and sugars in whole food items, like vegetables or even milk, into an acid which then becomes the ideal environment to preserve that food. Lacto-fermentation, a process brought on through the presence of lactobacillus, gives fermented foods and drinks their signature tangy and sour taste, but also creates probiotics that aids in digestion.

For these recipes please sterilise jars. (wash them well with hot soapy water and rinse or run through the dishwasher. Place in a pre-heated oven at 115C for 20 minutes to dry them out. Sterilise lids by placing them in boiling water for 1 minute.)

Recipes

Indian Spiced Carrot Kraut

1kg carrots, peeled and grated 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon black onion seeds 1 pinch red chilli flakes (optional) In a bowl, rub the salt into the carrots until they start to release some liquid. This will take about five minutes. Add the spices and mix well. Press all the ingredients into a sterilised jar and push down until the juices rise over the top of the carrots. (If the juice does not rise over the top, mix in a little filtered water and press down again). You can weigh down with a weight, so long as it’s not metal.

Close the lid and leave to ferment for 7-10 days at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. After five days you will see it start to form small bubbles.

Make sure the ingredients remain below the liquid. Keep fermenting and taste it daily until the tangy citrus flavour gets to where you want it, then refrigerate to stop the fermentation process.

Good to eat with eggs, garlic yoghurt and flat bread for breakfast.

Russian Chrain

2 medium beetroot, peeled and finely grated 4-inch piece of fresh horseradish, peeled and finely grated Salt Weigh the beetroot and horseradish, then measure out 2% of their weight in salt. Mix all three ingredients together in a bowl. Put them into a 500g sterilised jar and push the vegetables down so their juices rise over the top. Close the lid and leave to ferment in a warm place, away from direct sunlight. After five days, the chrain will have taken on a sour fermented flavour, at which point it’s ready to eat. When it gets to your desired taste, refrigerate – this will stop it fermenting – and eat it as an accompaniment to meat and fish dishes. Delicious with smoked fish or cold meat.

Yoghurt

1 litre whole milk 85g live Greek yoghurt

Saucepan Thermometer Whisk Container J-cloth or muslin Elastic band or string Tea towel

Make sure all your equipment is very clean before you start. Heat the milk to 85C in a saucepan over a medium heat. Then take the pan off the heat and leave it to cool to 46C. Whisk in the live yoghurt. If you don't have a thermometer then heat milk whilst stirring slowly until you start to see little bubbles around the edge of saucepan. Then turn off heat and leave to cool to room temperature. Then whisk in the yoghurt.

Pour into a container, cover with a j-cloth or muslin and wrap in a tea towel to keep it warm. Leave in a warm place for 8 – 12 hours depending on how thick and tangy you want your finished yoghurt to be. Refrigerate when ready – I like to leave it overnight for a thicker yoghurt (like Greek yoghurt). For your next batch just use some of your homemade yoghurt as your starter, instead of buying more yoghurt. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks in a sterilised jar.

Pickled Foods

Pickling is a method of food preservation that works by immersing foods in an acidic solution, like vinegar, that changes both the taste and texture of the food. It also involves the use of heat, which serves to destroy and inhibit the growth of any microorganisms. The fastest and easiest way is quick pickling, in which vinegar along with sugar, salt, and sometimes various herbs or spices are brought to a boil and then poured over fruits or vegetables that are left to soak for a short time.

Recipes

Pickled Radishes – lots freshly in the shops just now

small bunch of radish, washed and thinly sliced 250 ml white wine vinegar 100 ml water 1 tsp fine cooking salt 1 tbsp white sugar

Slice the radish thinly and place them in a jam jar. Combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt in a small saucepan and heat gently. Bring to the boil, remove from the heat and pour over the sliced radish. After one day the radishes will have turned a delightful neon pink and will be OK to eat but leave for a week for a better texture. Good to keep in the fridge and used in salads or if you're feeling more adventurous try with roasted aubergine slices, a little tahini mixed with yoghurt and pickled radishes on top.

Pickled Spring Onions

1 bunch spring onions (approximately 250 grams once trimmed and cleaned)

115 ml apple cider vinegar 60 ml water 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1/2 teaspoon celery seed 1/8 teaspoon red chilli flakes

Prepare a medium sized jar (capacity 1 pint)

Wash and thinly slice trimmed spring onions into thin rounds. In a small pot, combine vinegar, water, sugar, salt, mustard seeds, celery seeds and red chilli flakes. Bring to a boil. Once brine is simmering, add onions. Stir to combine and cook until onions are heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove pot from heat and put onions and liquid into a pint jar. Put on lid and seal tightly.

Let pickles rest at least two days before using. Unopened, this pickle will keep for up to one year in a cool, dark place. Once opened, keep refrigerated and use within 2-3 weeks.

Good to eat on top of a burger or with goats cheese.

Giardiniera

Prepare a 1 litre jar

You can use the vegetables listed below or make up your own Giardiniera medley of vegetables. For example you could also include red peppers, olives, garlic, chilli, pickled gherkins, green beans, red onion, leeks- its up to you!

1 small cauliflower, broken into florets 1 fennel bulb sliced 6 baby carrots 2 sticks of celery, halved lengthways and chopped into 2 inch batons plenty of sea salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 or 2 bay leaves 500 ml apple cider vinegar

Lay the vegetables in a shallow dish with plenty of salt, cover and leave overnight at room temperature. The next day you will find some liquid has been released from the vegetables. Drain and rinse the vegetables well, then pat dry with kitchen paper and leave to dry over the next couple of hours before tossing them in the extra virgin olive oil.

Pack the vegetables into a sterilised, airtight jar along with the bay leaves. Heat the apple cider vinegar in a pan until just boiling, take off the heat and pour into the jar until just covering the vegetables. Allow to cool before sealing.

Keep in a cool place - it will last for a month and continue to pickle during that time, so the vegetables will become increasingly sour on first bite! Great with cheese..

Salt Cured Eggs

Salted-cured yolks are exactly what they sound like: egg yolks that have been cured in salt.

Makes 4 150g sea salt 100g coconut sugar or regular sugar. 4 egg yolks Combine the salt and sugar and add to a small, flat bottomed sealable container. Make indentations and gently tip each yolk into its own indentation. Seal tightly and leave to cure in the fridge for 4 days. Try grating them over pasta or rice dishes. As this recipe only uses the yolk of the egg you could use the whites to make meringues.

Ricotta

Makes about 300g 2 litres whole milk A pinch of sea salt 40ml distilled white vinegar

1 Pour the milk into a large pan, add a pinch of sea salt and put over a medium heat. Allow the milk to heat up slowly, stirring from time to time.

2 When it is almost coming to the boil – when steam and small bubbles begin to appear on the surface (if you have a kitchen thermometer it should be 82C-85C)

Remove from the heat, add the vinegar and stir gently. You will see curds starting to form. Continue to stir for 1 minute or so.

3 Cover with a clean cloth and allow it to sit for a couple of hours. Once the ricotta has rested, line a colander with a large piece of damp muslin and put this over a larger bowl or pan.

4 Spoon the ricotta into the colander and allow it to drain for an hour or so, or overnight depending on your desired firmness (see note above).

To test whether the cheese is ready, gently lift the muslin up by the corners and twist lightly – the liquid should be slightly milky in colour. The ricotta is now ready.

Transfer to a container, seal and store in the fridge and use within 3 days.

Whipped herb and lemon ricotta Quick and super-light, this blend of herbs and ricotta is ideal for dipping. I use baby vegetables, but fingers of good toast or crackers would work too. Serves 4 450g fresh ricotta Salt and black pepper 1 garlic clove, crushed or grated 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 tbsp mint leaves, finely chopped Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus a good squeeze of lemon juice 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve. To serve Baby carrots, beetroots and radishes, cut into sticks 1 Put your ricotta into a bowl with a good pinch of salt and pepper, then beat it with a wooden spoon until light and fluffy. You can do this with an electric mixer if you want it really cloud-like. 2 Now stir in the garlic, herbs, zest and olive oil. Taste for balance and adjust the seasoning, if necessary, adding a squeeze of lemon juice and a little more of whatever you think it needs. 3 Serve in the middle of the table with your choice of veg or toast for dipping. 4 Drizzle with some olive oil and serve.

Spaghetti with chard, garlic, chilli and ricotta One of the fastest pastas I know (the sauce is cooked in the time it takes for the pasta to turn al dente) and for my money one of the nicest. Serves 4 400g spaghetti Extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced 1–2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 1 sprig of fresh rosemary, leaves picked 400g chard, rinsed leaves shredded and stalks finely sliced Grated zest and juice of 1 large unwaxed lemon (plus an extra lemon for juice, if needed) Salt and black pepper 150g of ricotta Parmesan or pecorino (optional) 1 Put a large pan of boiling water on to boil and add a couple of generous pinches of salt. Once the water is at a rolling boil, add your pasta and cook according to the packet instructions or until just al dente.

2 Meanwhile, heat a good drizzle of olive oil in a large frying pan and add the garlic, chilli and rosemary. Fry for a minute or so, until the garlic is starting to colour, then add the chard stalks and sizzle for 1-2 minutes. Add the leaves. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3–4 minutes, or until the leaves have wilted a little. 3 Drain the pasta, reserving a mugful of cooking water. Add a splash of the pasta water to the greens and mix well. Grate over the zest of the lemon and squeeze over the juice. Take off the heat and taste for seasoning. Crumble over the ricotta and stir it though. Serve topped with a drizzle of olive oil and, if you like, a wispy grating of parmesan or pecorino.