The Development and Migration of Ashkenazi Jewish Cuisine from Its Origins in Eastern France
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Technological University Dublin ARROW@TU Dublin Dissertations School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology 2021-06-14 From Alsace to America: The Development and Migration of Ashkenazi Jewish Cuisine from its origins in Eastern France Angela Hanratty Technological University Dublin Follow this and additional works at: https://arrow.tudublin.ie/tfschcafdis Part of the Jewish Studies Commons, and the Other Arts and Humanities Commons Recommended Citation Hanratty, A. (2021) From Alsace to America: The Development and Migration of Ashkenazi Jewish Cuisine from its origins in Eastern France, Masters Thesis, Technological University Dublin. This Theses, Masters is brought to you for free and open access by the School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology at ARROW@TU Dublin. It has been accepted for inclusion in Dissertations by an authorized administrator of ARROW@TU Dublin. For more information, please contact [email protected], [email protected]. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 4.0 License From Alsace to America: The Development and Migration of Ashkenazi Jewish Cuisine from its origins in Eastern France A thesis submitted to Technological University Dublin in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of Master of Arts in Gastronomy and Food Studies by Angela Hanratty Supervisor: Diarmuid Cawley Technological University Dublin School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology May 2021 Declaration of Authorship I certify that this thesis which I now submit for examination for the award of the Master’s in Gastronomy and Food Studies is entirely my own work and has not been taken from the work of others save and to the extent that such work has been cited and acknowledged within the text of my work. This thesis was prepared according to the regulations of Technological University Dublin and has not been submitted in whole or in part for an award in any other Institute or University. The Institute has permission to keep, to lend or to copy this thesis in whole or in part, on condition that any such use of the material of the thesis be duly acknowledged. Signature: Angela Hanratty Date: 10th May 2021 i Abstract This research examines the historical development of a distinctly Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine from its roots in the Alsace region of France, through the Jewish settlements in Eastern Europe, and the mass immigration to America in the 19th and 20th centuries. The aim of the research was to come to an understanding of how global perception of what is considered to be quintessentially Jewish food (as evidenced in American Jewish delicatessens, Jewish homes, and in popular culture) has been shaped by developments in Alsace. Long standing views were held that Ashkenazi food developed in Eastern Europe, specifically Poland and the former Russian Empire. While aspects of the cuisine were adapted after migration, this research demonstrates that a number of key dishes in the Ashkenazi tradition can be traced back to the Alsace region of present-day France, a territory of the Germanic Holy Roman Empire in the early medieval period when the Jewish community developed. Through a combination of desk research, oral history interviews, and analysis of recipe collections and delicatessen menus from New York, links between Alsace, Eastern Europe, and America were investigated and developed to determine the historical provenance of Ashkenazi food. The findings show that eight key dishes that are considered to be quintessential to Ashkenazi tradition developed or were adapted in Alsace, migrated to Eastern Europe with members of the Jewish community seeking refuge in the Polish commonwealth, and eventually crossed the Atlantic with further waves of migration. The research demonstrates how some of the most iconic Jewish foods that became signifiers through popular culture have their origins in Alsace in the early Middle Ages. ii Acknowledgements Sincerest thanks go to my supervisor, Diarmuid Cawley, for his help and support throughout the process of writing this thesis. I would like to pay tribute to the late Diarmuid Murphy, who encouraged me to pursue my interest in Jewish food history after reading the class paper that was the original inspiration for this research. My research would not have been possible without the help of the many wonderful members of the Jewish community in France, Dublin, and New York City, who spoke to me about their food heritage and culture. Thank you for giving of your time so willingly and with such enthusiasm. Much love goes to Lottie, Francesca, Georgia, and Jonathan, who sacrificed hours of family time without complaint. Thank you for your patience and understanding. Finally, Gerry, for the endless proof-reading, and for your unwavering belief in me – thank you. iii Table of Contents Declaration of Authorship ........................................................................................................................ i Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... ii Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................ iii Table of Figures ................................................................................................................................... viii Chapter One: Introduction ...................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Definition: ..................................................................................................................................... 1 1.2 Justification: .................................................................................................................................. 1 1.3 Historical Scope: ........................................................................................................................... 3 1.4 Jewish Food in Popular Culture: ................................................................................................... 7 1.5 Dietary Laws: ................................................................................................................................ 8 1.6 Main and Sub Research Questions.............................................................................................. 10 Chapter Two: Literature Review........................................................................................................... 11 2.1 General/Ashkenazi Origins: ........................................................................................................ 11 2.2 History of the Region .................................................................................................................. 11 2.3 Links with Germany ................................................................................................................... 12 2.4 Chopped Liver/Foie Gras/Geese ................................................................................................. 13 2.6 Challah/Barches .......................................................................................................................... 15 2.7 Gefilte Fish/Carp ......................................................................................................................... 16 2.8 Herring ........................................................................................................................................ 17 2.9 Cholent ........................................................................................................................................ 17 2.10 Choucroute ................................................................................................................................ 18 2.11 Pastrami..................................................................................................................................... 18 2.12 Emigration/America .................................................................................................................. 20 2.13 New York Delicatessens ........................................................................................................... 21 Chapter Three: Research Methodology ................................................................................................ 24 3.0 Introduction ................................................................................................................................. 24 3.1 Research Focus ........................................................................................................................... 24 3.2 Methodology ............................................................................................................................... 25 3.2.1 Secondary Research ............................................................................................................. 25 3.2.2 Primary Research ................................................................................................................. 26 3.3 Oral History Interviews ............................................................................................................... 26 3.3.1 Interviewees ......................................................................................................................... 27 3.4 Qualitative Research ..................................................................................................................