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Home , Hardegg, Inner German border, Morava (river)

The Trail’s Landscapes of Memory, Meaning, and Recovery by David G. Havlick Photographs by the Author

Introduction pride (Cramer 2010; 2012). Against the possible, and to create opportunities to paradox of these transformations from visit cultural and ecological features along At a commencement speech in 1946, death strip to green belt, the Iron Curtain the way, I decided to travel solo by bicy- warned his audience at now presents an important trans-European cle. In all, during nine days of cycling I Westminster College in Fulton, Missouri, geography that blurs the boundaries not would cover 1,200 kilometers from Bratis- that, “From Stettin in the Baltic to Trieste just of political ideologies, east and west, lava, , to Point Alpha (), in the Adriatic, an iron curtain has des- but also those of nature and culture. The . This is just a small stretch of the cended across the [European] Continent” Iron Curtain remains both a symbolic pres- entire Iron Curtain Trail (ICT). Formally (Churchill 1946). The “curtain” Churchill ence and an actual set of places, but the recognized by the (EU) in referred to at the time was not yet a physi- way its meanings and physical presence 2005, the ICT is now one of Europe’s lon- cal barrier, but for much of the have changed in the span of just over two gest designated bicycle routes, running the Iron Curtain signified Soviet and east- decades can offer insights into processes of some 6,800 kilometers from the Barents Sea ern European isolation from the West. The demilitarization, land use change, and eco- to the (Figure 1). The trail is no Iron Curtain’s impermeability soon logical restoration that apply well beyond mere recreational path. With the ICT, the became more than just symbol or meta- these Cold War borderlands. EU aspires to provide a means of “experi- phor; by the early 1960s it also effectively encing history,” a model for sustainable described a material presence that reached Bicycling along the Iron Curtain Trail tourism, and a legacy that fosters a nearly 7000 kilometers north to south broader sense of European identity (Cra- through . Until 1989, fences, In September 2013, with support from mer n/d; Iron Curtain Trail n/d; see also watchtowers, concertina wire, minefields, the American Geographic Society’s McColl Hammer 2009). walls, and guards maintained this Family Fellowship (and a grant from my I rolled out of in a light driz- linear feature as a militarized death strip home institution, the University of Colo- zle, leaving behind the largest city I would extending the length of Europe. Today, rado Colorado Springs), I set out for cen- encounter during my entire ride. After ten these same borderlands form the backbone tral Europe to experience a portion of the kilometers I met my first ICT marker and of Europe’s most ambitious and extensive Iron Curtain borderlands and see for turned onto a network of bike paths and set of ecological preserves, including hun- myself how these transformations are farm roads following the Morava (or dreds of protected areas and a series of occurring. My research seeks to under- March) that delineates the Slovakia- national parks and biosphere reserves that stand how people and communities proxi- border. It wasn’t long before some collectively are considered, “The Green mate to the borderlands are negotiating of the layered histories of the borderlands Belt of Europe” (e.g. Terry et al. 2006; the Iron Curtain’s profound transitions, started to emerge. As I pedaled through Hammer 2009; Schwagerl€ 2011). and to compare how demilitarization and forested floodplains and wetlands flitting In the latter half of the 20th Century, ecological recovery are taking place along with waterfowl, it was easy to marvel at the Iron Curtain was likely the most iconic the new versus for- the simple beauty of the landscape (it also and disruptive feature of the central Euro- mer military sites in the U.S. that have helped that the drizzle had broken into pean landscape (Steiner 2006, ix). Consid- seen somewhat analogous conversions scattered sunshine). But time and again I ering its prominence during more than from militarized landscapes to new was confronted with the realization that four decades of the Cold War, the Iron emphases on wildlife conservation and these lands were not simply a product of Curtain’s rapid transformation from habitat protection. In particular, I am inter- nature at work. Rounding a bend at the feared, highly controlled barrier to open ested in how formerly militarized sites are confluence of the Morava and Riv- and widely appreciated green space repre- commemorated in this European context ers, a medieval tower and the ramparts of sents a profound transformation. Commu- and to examine approaches to restoration Devın Castle loomed above me – a remnant nities along these borderlands now treat of these complex landscapes in the U.S. and reminder that some of these this strip as an open-space amenity, a liv- versus Europe. were marked and militarized long before ing memorial to a divided Europe, and as My research along the Iron Curtain the days of the Iron Curtain. The more an important site of ecological revitaliza- also came with a small twist: in order to recent history was also evident, though, tion, cultural meaning, local and European experience the borderlands as directly as with a large rectangular monument at the

126 Focus on Geography Volume 57, Number 3 unifying narrative that pulls the disparate layers of this region easily into view. Instead, the traveler is pressed to consider the borderlands as complex socioecological landscapes. Even the borders themselves present a problem. I was drawn to central Europe specifically to study the transitions along the Iron Curtain borderlands, but for much of my trip the borders I bicycled along had histories that reached nearer to the end of the Iron Age than the onset of the Iron Curtain. This was made abun- dantly clear not only from the looming stone bulwarks of Castle Devın and others I passed along the way, but even more acutely by barriers of language. On the Austrian and German sides of the border I managed to communicate reasonably well (I studied German for six years, including a term abroad in college), but in Slovakia and the I was quickly reduced to pantomime. Despite my clear understanding of the profound disloca- tions and violence caused by forty years of Cold War separation between countries east and west, time and again the realiza- tion came that this was but one relatively brief phase of among many centuries of boundary-making. With nearly all physical traces of the Iron Curtain now dismantled, overgrown, or lost from view, it may be dangerously easy to let the importance of this barrier and the impacts it wrought fade away as well. There is also the issue of heterogene- ity. The borderlands are not – and really never were – the same from section to sec- tion. This diversity showed itself most dra- matically in the contrast between the inner-German border that formerly divided Germany into East and West, and the international borders farther south that are now open but remain in place. For many Germans, the Cold War division of the Iron Curtain represented a sharp dis- ruption in cultural identity and established Figure 1. Iron Curtain Trail map (Cartography: Based on an original map by Michael Cramer, new forms of separation that do not com- modified by the author, and used by permission). pare exactly to those of the German-Czech and Austrian-Czech/Slovak borderlands. foot of Devın Castle commemorating the ing an individual killed while patrolling Though Germans had long-established hundreds of lives lost trying to cross from the border or attempting to flee, to eclectic sub-national identities as Saxons, Bavari- east to west during the Cold War (Fig- sculpture gardens and open air museums. ans, Thuringians, or Hessians, prior to the ure 2). The monuments invariably pulled me out Cold War they had generally maintained of the bucolic fields or woods, mountains, common linguistic and cultural identities. Commemorating and Interpreting and streams I was pedaling through to Even language and national affilia- Borderlands recall that these landscapes were the prod- tions are blurred in places along the Iron uct not just of natural processes but a vari- Curtain, however, as evidenced by the Over the course of my trip, I encoun- ety of social practices enacted over case of Sudetenland. Prior to 1945, the tered a number of monuments marking previous decades and centuries. western reaches of today’s Czech Republic the Iron Curtain and recalling the violence In this respect, a journey along the were predominantly settled by Moravian it imposed upon people and place. These Iron Curtain Trail can prove to be rather Germans. Following World War II, the ranged from simple crosses commemorat- disorienting as there is no single story, no German population was expelled from

Fall 2014 Focus on Geography 127 Figure 2. Devın, Slovakia monument.

Czechoslovakia en masse, reducing what remain. Designated initially in 1963 and width ranging from 200 meters to five kilo- had been a 90% majority of German expanded in 1991, Sumava National Park meters (Bicık and Stepanek 1994). In the speakers region-wide to less than 5% and Preserve covers 167,000 hectares of this slightly less-restrictive Zone B, extending (Bicık and Stepanek 1994; Bicık et al. area that, in 1991, contained less than 2,500 inward from the border fence for up to an 2001). In just three years, from 1945 to permanent residents (Sumava National additional five kilometers, local settlements 1948, approximately 2.8 Moravian Ger- Park and Preserve 1999). Other traces of were cleared but select activities such as mans were evicted and relocated across the historically strained Czech-German timber or mushroom harvesting were the border east to west. relationship are a bit more subtle: in days allowed only with a special permit (Bicık The expulsion of the German-speaking of cycling through the Czech borderlands, I and Stepanek 1994). As of the 1991 census, population also resulted in a sudden evacu- did not meet a single person able (or per- population numbers in these Czech border ation of property claims along these border haps willing) to speak to me in German. zones had only rebounded to 61% of the regions that later facilitated the establish- Whenever I asked, “Sprechen Sie Deutsch 1930 census levels (the last census con- ment of federally protected areas. Within Englisch?” the reply always came ducted prior to World War II). To this day, three years of the spring 1945 armistice, back, even if haltingly, “English is better.” many of the communities that once thrived approximately three million hectares “sud- The depopulation of Czech Sudeten- in this area remain virtually abandoned. denly became virtually uninhabited”; most land was made starker still as the fortifica- The land cover of the Czech borderlands of this land subsequently became and tion of the Iron Curtain proceeded in the has also reflected these population declines, remains property (Bicık et al. 2001). 1950s. In order to enhance border security, with increases in forest cover and open Though today the border in this region is the so-called Zone A of the Czech side fields, and decreases in arable land that open, with the Czech Republic and Ger- between the actual border and the border have only accelerated during the post-1990 many both members in the European fence was completely depopulated with period, as state-sponsored subsidies evapo- Union, residues of this mass expulsion virtually no human activity permitted for a rated (Kupkova et al. 2013) (Figure 3).

128 Focus on Geography Volume 57, Number 3 moved with impressive celerity and from both sides of the border. In 1990, at its final meeting, ’s council of minis- ters set aside the Thuringian Rhone as a biosphere reserve, a move that was later included in the Unification Treaty between the two German states. By mid-April 1991, the United Nations granted nearly 185,000 hectares of these borderlands formal status as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (Our Way Into the Future n/d). This post-unification designation “was not only Germany’s first nationwide conservation project but also a living memorial to recent German history” (Geidezis and Kreutz 2012, p. 15). There are now 150 nature conservation areas along the German Green Belt, as well as 125 additional conservation areas that serve as “ribs” spreading from the backbone of the former borderlands (Geidezis and Kreutz 2012). The vision of a trans-European Green Belt has moved steadily forward from these early measures. A 2001 ecological ı Figure 3. Abandoned church at Doln Dvoriste, Czech Republic. The church tower was used as a survey of the inner German borderlands lookout by Czech border guards during the Cold War. found 109 different habitat types, includ- ing all known German habitats except for the alpine. Perhaps even more dramatic As a Curtain Falls, Nature Rises military tests and training, but also by the considering the highly fragmented Euro- uses that military control excluded. In the pean landscape, more than 85% of these This combination of depopulation, absence of residential or commercial devel- areas were considered “intact” (Geidezis changes in land ownership, and land cover opment, extractive industry, recreational and Kreutz 2012, p. 16). A number of rare change partially explains the flourishing of developments, or intensive agriculture, eco- species are now found along the Green protected areas and nature reserves along logical processes came to the fore in many Belt, including brown bear, wolf, lynx, the former Iron Curtain. Similar processes parts of these former installations (see wolverine, imperial eagles, Dalmatian Peli- are now evident in militarized and Havlick 2007; 2011). Some of the changes cans, Eurasian eagle owls, and a variety of restricted spaces, past and present, in a are also due to problems of site contamina- songbirds (Geidezis and Kreutz 2012). number of places around the world. The tion that limit redevelopment. This often In 2003, the first international confer- demilitarized zone (DMZ) of the Korean results in socio-ecological landscapes where ence on the European Green Belt was held Peninsula, which persists as one of the most processes of human development and in Bonn, Germany. The meeting the fol- highly militarized borders on the planet, ecological change are inextricably mixed. lowing year was held at the Ferto-Hansag has attracted attention for years due to its The greenward shift occurring along trans-boundary park in Hungary and unintended role as a de facto wildlife sanc- the Iron Curtain borderlands may be attracted representatives from 17 European tuary (Higuchi et al. 1996; Kim 1997; Turner unique compared to these other cases, how- countries (Geidezis and Kreutz 2012). The 2005; Thomas 2010; see also Weisman 2007). ever, both for the rapidity with which it conferences are now annual events held in Montebello Islands, off the coast of Western has occurred and for the degree of coordi- locations across the 24-country region ded- Australia, were the site of British nuclear nation and agreement that exists in moving icated to the Green Belt project (European tests in the 1950s and are now managed as a the vision forward. Just one month after Greenbelt 2013). The June 2012 meeting marine park by the state Department of the fall of the – and before the saw the creation of a formal structure for Parks and Wildlife. The Department’s web- opening of most crossings along the the maintenance and protection of the site unabashedly touts the park as an extended inner German border – the Ger- Greenbelt, including contacts for each “Explosive attraction.” (Montebello Islands man group BUND (Bund fur€ Umwelt und country, the designation of regional coor- n/d). The United Nations’ enforced buffer Naturschutz Deutschland, also known as dinators, and measures to coordinate zone dividing Cyprus – the so-called Green Friends of the Earth Germany) – organized NGOs such as the International Union for Line – has also inspired visions of a future a meeting with some 400 conservationists Conservation of Nature (IUCN), which zone of ecological and psychological heal- from East and to discuss will serve as a coordinating consultant ing (e.g. Grichting 2011). the prospects of creating a green belt along (Schwaderer 2013). In all, the Greenbelt In the , since 1988, nearly the inner German borderlands. The gather- includes 39 national parks adjacent to or two dozen former military sites have been ing concluded by passing a resolution directly on the borderlands, and more than redesignated as national wildlife refuges. asking for conservation efforts along the 3,200 “nature protected areas” within 25 These once-restricted areas have become Iron Curtain to become a national priority kilometers of the former Iron Curtain characterized not only by the impacts of (Geidezis and Kreuz 2012). The project then (Geidezis and Kreutz 2012, p. 18).

Fall 2014 Focus on Geography 129 Considering the prevalance of pro- able to connect people and nature” (2012, erase human-caused damage and degrada- tected areas, a resurgent environment, and p. 28). tioncanalsoleadtotheerasureofimpor- the sparse human populations, political The commitment to maintaining a tant human histories and cultural value. borders often seemed invisible as I bicy- sense of the Iron Curtain both in its horror For many of us, to lose sight of the human cled. Along the inner German border I and inhumanity as well as its promise and dimensions of the Iron Curtain’shistory soon lost track of which side of the former ecological benefit is perhaps the European would represent a devastating loss of mem- Iron Curtain I was on as the sinuous bor- Green Belt effort’s most significant feature. ory and meaning. der turned in all directions. Even in the As the current president of the German Considering the degree of human international borderlands of Germany- League for Nature and Environment suffering, , displacement, and Czech Republic, Austria-Czech Republic, (Deutscher Naturschutzring) noted back in death that occurred as a result of the forti- and Austria-Slovakia, had it not been for 2004, the Iron Curtain’s only true “win- fied separation of Europe throughout the signage and linguistic differences it would ner” was nature, but by working to imple- Cold War, it can be rather disturbing to have been easy to cross borders without ment a common set of conservation goals read accounts that seem only to value an realizing it. Ironically, this is one of the Europeans today might turn “a once ecological aesthetic along the borderlands. concerns held by some backers of the vari- dividing structure into an ecological bond” As one 2008 article in the International Jour- ous Green Belt and Iron Curtain Trail ini- (Vogtmann 2004, p. 5). Ultimately, this nal of Wilderness lamented, “Unfortunately, tiatives: that the cultural landscapes and may prove to be a way to overcome per- the spectacular Sumava-Bavarian Forest history of the Iron Curtain will fade from sistent historical divisions and achieve a transboundary protected area is now under view as nature surges to the fore. new sense of European unity. some threat from increased recreational use We need only turn again briefly to the This very much fits the vision for the given that the Schengen Treaty, which example of former U.S. military bases con- Iron Curtain Trail described by its princi- came into effect December 21, 2007, allows verted to wildlife refuges to see that this is pal sponsor in the EU Parliament. Michael tourists to cross the border between the not a trivial concern. User surveys I have Cramer is a member of Parliament and two countries freely” (Martin et al. 2008, p. conducted at several of these sites suggest founder of the Berlin Wall Trail that com- 38). Conceding that increased use and that visitors quickly normalize the refuges memorates the former route of the barrier access may lead to ecological harm that we in their new form, with a corresponding separating East and . In the might wish to regulate or avoid, this nar- deemphasis on the militarized past or official brochure describing the Iron Cur- row framing still seems rather perverse other prior histories (e.g. Havlick et al. tain Trail and its purpose, Cramer suggests with its wistful implication: remember the forthcoming). While this may indicate an the Iron Curtain is, “no longer a dividing good old days when the border was secure? inspiring recovery of formerly dangerous line but a symbol of a shared, pan-Euro- As Cramer’s more inclusive vision sug- military sites, such reconceptions can also pean experience in a reunified Europe” gests, there ought to be ways to protect the eradicate important social meaning and (Cramer n/d). I was fortunate enough to natural features and ecosystems of the Iron events that occurred at these places. Partic- be able to meet with Mr. Cramer in Berlin Curtain borderlands while also valuing, ularly at sites of imposed violence, severe at the end of my Iron Curtain travels. Cra- commemorating, and preserving the contamination, weapons development, mer embraces the ecological flourishing region’s culture, politics, and history. In proving grounds, or nuclear facilities, the that is taking place along the central Euro- fact, as I bicycled along the resurgent forests impacts, risks, and sacrifices warrant a pean borderlands, an appreciation he has and fields of the formerly militarized and stronger regard for commemoration. cultivated by personally bicycling all of restricted borderlands, I regularly encoun- the inner German border and writing three tered examples of this type of approach. At Unifying Europe and Avoiding Historical detailed cycling guides of the entire route times it was tempting to forget what had Erasure (Cramer 2007; 2010; 2012). But he is also happened along this winding route of the very clear about the importance of consid- Iron Curtain, but there were also many Along the Iron Curtain borderlands, ering the changes along the Iron Curtain vivid reminders of how the social and the the desire to recognize ecological and in an integrated way: “We can’t only look natural can be effectively linked. I will cultural attributes often seems more expli- to nature, that would be crazy. Culture, briefly highlight three of these cases. cit and determined than in cases I have politics, nature, and history all need to be studied in the U.S. As Geidezis and Kreutz considered together” (Cramer 2013). Cızov, Czech Republic (2012, p. 20) point out, “Above its This multifaceted approach to com- uncountable value for nature conservation, memoration that values cultural landscapes A quiet road heading west from the European Green Belt is also a Euro- in full partnership with ecological condi- Znojmo, Czech Republic, traces the bound- pean cultural heritage of invaluable asset. tions is surely one important lesson we ary of National Park Podyji, as it passes It is both a commemorative landscape and ought to gather from the changes occurring through 20 kilometers of open fields, for- a living monument for the overcoming of along the Iron Curtain borderlands. From ests and the Czech villages of Masovice, the Iron Curtain and the Cold War just as my research of military-to-wildlife transi- Lukov, and Hornı Breckov to the tiny burg it is a symbol for the overcoming of the tions in the U.S., and in ecological restora- of Cızov (population 216). Signs and separation of Europe.” Similarly, in tion efforts more generally, we often find a kiosks along the road highlight dozens of describing his vision for a green belt set of objectives that orient more exclusively hiking trails coursing through this post- through Germany’s Thuringian border- to prior – and ideally, pristine – ecological Cold War park, which when combined lands, Thone€ emphasizes that the “Green conditions. This approach can effectively with National Park Thayatal on the Aus- Belt must also communicate to future restore endangered species, degraded eco- trian side of the nearby border, covers generations how a dividing line through a logical communities, or important function 7,950 hectares. On a sunny September day, country has become a unique space that is to impaired ecosystems, but the effort to it’s easy to imagine stopping for several

130 Focus on Geography Volume 57, Number 3 Figure 4. Cızov, Czech Republic, Iron Curtain Traces. Figure 5. Hardegg bridge, Austria. days, or weeks, to explore the woods and Hardegg, Austria’s smallest , with a concrete and with moss gradually coloniz- the twisting canyon of the River population of just 88 persons (Figure 5). ing the rounded top. I could imagine the below. Just south of Cızov, though, a ser- residents of Gorsdorf,€ or perhaps others ies of concrete plinths, a weathered but Gorsdorf,€ Germany from the west, tearing down the barrier in still-imposing fence, and a the heady enthusiasm of opening borders lookout tower mark one of the last pre- Working against the prospect of losing late in 1989, taking sledge hammers, chis- served sections of Iron Curtain barriers the memory of a divided Germany, more els, pry bars, whatever was at hand, much that remain out of nearly 1000 kilometers than two dozen border museums can be as Berliners did under the glare of news of the former Czechoslavakian border- found scattered along the former inner Ger- cameras from around the world. But here, lands (now split between the Czech man borderlands. I visited a number of the hand of the town’s mayor stayed the Republic and Slovakia) (Figure 4). A sign these, including those at Modlareuth€ (also demolition (see Cramer 2012). The wall in Czech, German, and English describes known as “little Berlin” for the wall and fragment now marks not only the division the “No Man’s Land” created by the Iron other fortifications that split this small town that persisted for decades, but also the Curtain, where a two to six kilometer-wide in two) and the border crossing at Point boundary of a small nature reserve that border zone saw villages demolished, Alpha that have emerged as legitimate tour- offers habitat for a variety of butterflies, access strictly limited, and more than ist destinations in recent years. The muse- bats, and other small animals. I pedaled 1,000 people killed either trying to cross or ums were chock full of information and on, reminded again of the privilege of guard the border (nearly two-thirds of featured walls, fencing, watch towers, bun- crossing this painful divide unimpeded the deaths were those of border guards: kers, anti-vehicle structures, control roads, (Figure 8). ten from cross-border conflicts, the rest interactive displays, and other remnants or from suicide, electrocution, drowning, or reenactments from the days of the Iron Cur- Gompertshausen-Alsleben, Germany accidental gunshots). tain (Figures 6, 7). In many ways, they pro- The pastoral landscapes I’ve just trav- vide effective reminders and important Another day, biking along the Thurin- eled through, the hiking trails I fancied, details about the conditions during Ger- gian-Bavarian borderlands, the Iron Cur- suddenly take on a different shade – in many’s four decades of division. tain Trail steered me out of the small town some ways no less beautiful, with the for- Perhaps the most powerful meeting I of Zimmerau and onto a series of forest ests and fields rolling into the distance, but had with the actual Iron Curtain, though, paths straddling the border. Signs for hik- more haunted than before. I see before me came not from one of these more elaborate ing and cross country skiing dotted the not just aging strands of barbed wire, but a set pieces but from an unexpected scrap of route. As I emerged into open fields, I lethal barrier that once carried 10,000 volts wall I encountered far from any tour came to a quiet road that ran between the and triggered lights and alarms (and, too buses, near the small village of Gorsdorf.€ villages of Gompertshausen () often, death) at the slightest touch. Nature It was growing late on a gray day, with a and Alsleben (). At this inner Ger- remains vivid here in this scenic cross-bor- light drizzle ramping towards downpour, man border, a large boulder and a bench der national park, but it is a nature forged when I rounded a turn after a short climb sit at the base of a 5.4 meter high steel by human action, horror, and only more and came upon a 30-meter section of cross. A closer look reveals that the cross recently, hope. When I finally pedal on, barrier wall. It was partially overgrown, is made from the Iron Curtain’s border dropping down steeply to cross a foot- verging steadily into vines and trees, and I fence, ripped out in 1990 and restored in bridge over the River Thaya, it is with gen- could easily have missed it, head down, different form in 1992. Two small plaques uine appreciation and relief that I find the trying to get another 15 kilometers behind are affixed to the cross. The first notes that bridge open, with not a border guard or me before nightfall. It looked abandoned, the cross was designed and built by a resi- barrier in sight. A stone marker quietly cel- like so many border themselves, dent of nearby Alsleben. The second is a ebrates the revitalized border crossing to with several large holes punched into the dedication: 1945-1990. To Remember those

Fall 2014 Focus on Geography 131 Figure 6. M€odlareuth, Germany, border sign and wall. Figure 7. M€odlareuth, Germany, border museum fencing and guard tower.

Figure 8. G€orsdorf wall, Germany. Figure 9. Cross at Gompertshausen-Alsleben, inner Germany border crossing.

Killed on the Border. To Warn the Living for References Cramer, Michael. n/d. Iron Curtain Trail the Future (my translation) (Figure 9). The brochure. The Greens/EFA in the monument is an apt reminder of the prom- Bicık, Ivan and Vıt Stepanek. 1994. “Post- European Parliament. [http://www2.iron ise of rebirth (the border fence, resur- War Changes of the Land-Use Struc- curtaintrail.eu/uploads/brochure_iron_ rected!), the hazards of forgetting, and the ture in Bohemia and : Case curtain_trail.pdf 3 December 2013]. many layers of meaning that emerge from Study Sudetenland,” GeoJournal 32(3): Cramer, Michael. 2007. Iron Curtain Trail, a single long line drawn on a map. 253–259. Part 1. Rodingersdorf, Austria: Verlag Bicık, Ivan, Leos Jelecek and Vıt Stepanek. Esterbauer. “ Cramer, Michael. 2010. Iron Curtain Trail, Part Acknowledgements 2001. Land-Use Changes and their Social Driving Forces in Czechia in the 3. Rodingersdorf, Austria: Verlag Esterbauer. th th ” Cramer, Michael. 2012. Iron Curtain Trail, Thank you to the American Geo- 19 and 20 Centuries, Land Use Policy – Part 2. Rodingersdorf, Austria: Verlag graphic Society’s McColl Family Fellowship 18: 65 73. “ Esterbauer. and the UCCS Committee on Research and Churchill, Winston. 5 March 1946. The ” Cramer, Michael. 2013. 19 September 2013. Creative Work for providing research Sinews of Peace, Speech given at Interview with the author, Literaturhaus support. I also appreciate the cooperation of Westminster College, Fulton, Missouri. Berlin, Berlin, Germany. the Honorable Michael Cramer, Member of [http://www.winstonchurchill.org/ European Greenbelt. 2013. “From Iron the European Parliament; visual storyteller learn/speeches/speeches-of-winston- Curtain to Lifeline.” Coordination and ICT cyclist Kate Trenerry; and the churchill/120-the-sinews-of-peace 19 Group of the European Green Belt insights of two anonymous reviewers. May 2014].

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