Tour Report 17 - 25 March 2013

Tunisia

Naturetrek Tour Report 17 - 25 March 2013

Addax

Desert Sparrow

Carthage Moussier's Redstart

Report and images by Geoff Carr

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Tunisia

Tour Leaders: Geoff Carr Naturetrek Amine Zorgati Local Guide Hedi Dmittri Driver

Tour Group Barry Smithson John Plested Paul Markley Edie Trimmer June Ford John Ford Andrew Keeble Christine Burden

Day 1 Sunday 17th March

Gatwick to Tunis to Bizerte

Cloud, showers and a light northerly wind – 15 degrees C Some clients met up with each other at London Gatwick check-in or at the departure gate for the BA flight and at 1330 we were on our way to Tunisia and the start of the trip. After a good flight we landed at Tunis airport and were met by the remainder of the clients, Amine, the local guide and Hedi the bus driver. We changed money to Tunisian dinar and then we were soon on our way in the fading light to our first night accommodation at Bizerte which we reached after a drive of just over one hour from the airport. After checking in we met for drinks and dinner at 2000 and then by 2130 most people retired to bed after a rather long day.

Day 2 Monday 18th March

Bizerte and Lake Ichkeul

Sunny but with some cloud and a light westerly wind – 22 degrees C We awoke to a fine, sunny morning with Common Bulbul singing in nearby trees and lots of House Martins flying around the hotel establishing territories and nest sites. Most of the group members were up for pre- breakfast birding around the grounds of the hotel and finding Sardinian Warbler, Spanish Sparrow, Mediterranean Gulls and a Montague’s Harrier as starters.

After breakfast we were away from the hotel at a leisurely 0830 and heading north towards Lake Ichkeul, a famous migration hot-spot in Tunisia. En route we called at a supermarket to buy food for the day’s picnic. After a journey of about one hour we reached the lake and surrounding farmland with fields of cereal and beans. First we visited the barrage which separates the salt water of the sea from the fresh water main lake and here we had singing Cetti’s Warbler, Common Sandpipers, Hoopoe, Alpine Swifts and a flock of Spanish Sparrow. We drove around the lake anti-clockwise stopping a number time to look at Long-legged Buzzard, Marsh Harrier, Short- toed Eagle, Grey and Woodchat Shrikes and Yellow Wagtail of a couple of races (cinereocapilla and iberiae). There was a large Barn Swallow and Common Swift migration over and around the lake.

Tunisia Tour Report

We drove further around the lake and then on a road across wet farmland towards the base of Mount Ichkeul where we found a level platform on a rock and here we had a picnic overlooking the lake and surrounding habitat. This year there had been a lot of rainfall a few weeks ago and the lake level was very high and after our picnic we had to turn back on the agricultural road as this was impassable. We drove around the lake further and into the Ichkuel National Park. Here we stopped to view over the lake with an Osprey being a good sighting as it caught a large fish. A couple of Blue Rock Thrush was looking down on us from the rocks and a mixture of Wigeon, Pintail and Teal out on the water.

From here we drove back to Bizerte and back at the hotel for 1730 and had a half hour birding with a few Cory’s Shearwaters out at sea and Mediterranean Gulls passing by. We met for drinks at 1900 and to complete the day’s bird-list then our evening meal.

Day 3 Tuesday 19th March

Bizerte to Chilba and Lebna Barrage, Korba lagoon and Korba

Sunny with a light SE wind 22 degrees C We had breakfast at 0700 then away at 0800 on the bus south to get around Tunis city before the morning rush- hour. We travelled around Tunis and on the way out of the city stopped at a supermarket to buy food for the next two day’s picnics. From here we drove on towards Cap Bon with a stop overlooking farmland where we had lots of migrating Common Crane and White Stork, Short-toed Eagle over and Crested Lark on the farmland. Just as we thought about departing a Black-winged Kite appeared from nowhere and we all had really good fairly close views of this raptor hovering for lizards.

The Chilba Barrage had high water levels and water birds were abundant. We had our picnic lunch near the lakeside on the old road and from here had Marsh Harrier, Yellow Wagtails, Temminck’s Stints, Green Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank, Lapwing, Spoonbill and a Wryneck giving close views for everyone. After the picnic we drove on and then to the outlet of the Lebna Barrage and had Sedge Warblers, Chiffchaff, Glossy Ibis, Moorhen and a distant Black-winged Kite.

On then from here to the coast and the next stop at Korba Lagoons which was a large area of shallow, saline lakes with lots of birds. Here we had Greater Flamingo, Marsh Harrier, Teal, Marbled Duck, Garganey, Black- winged Stilt, Slender-billed Gull and at least 3 races of Yellow Wagtail. After all this excitement of large numbers of birds we drove to our accommodation at the Africa Jade Thalasso Hotel. Really nice, 4 star and beside the sea. We met later to complete the day’s birds list and then to have dinner with a fantastic, varied buffet before turning in for bed after a long but rewarding day.

Day 4 Wednesday 20th March

Korba, Cap Bon, Kerkouane, Kelibia and Korba

Sunny, cloud and a late shower with the wind E and 22°C Some people were up at 0700 for a short birding walk around the hotel grounds and views out to sea and had Gannet, Sandwich Tern, Laughing Dove, Great Grey Shrike, Common Swift and a number of Chiffchaff.

2 © Naturetrek April 13

Tunisia Tour Report

After an excellent varied buffet breakfast we left the hotel at 0830 for Cap Bon which is a migration hot-spot. A quick stop to overlook Korba Lagoons where we had up to 300 Greater Flamingos floating and up-ending like duck to feed under the surface and paddling along with long, ungainly legs. We picked up food for the picnic in a small town on the way and drove straight to Cap Bon and right up to the top to the transmitter station. Here we had Moussier’s Redstart, Blue Rock Thrush, Thekla Lark and a number of Marsh Harrier drifting around. It was clear weather on the top and offered really good views all around but a strong east wind, not ideal for migration. Nevertheless, we soon witnessed the start of some migration with Marsh Harrier, Long-legged Buzzard, Black Kite, Montague’s Harrier, and the sight of 37 Common Cranes on a thermal, calling and then flying off towards Sicily and then on to their breeding grounds in Northern Europe. We descended in the bus and found a sheltered picnic spot with a view of other migrants heading to the summit.

After lunch we visited the Carthaginian ruins at Kerkouane which was very interesting and extensive with a backdrop of the sea beyond. The ruins had been uncovered and preserved but not rebuilt at any height above 2-3 metres which gave a splendid overview of the whole area. Various houses were showing structural detail right down to the stone bath-tubs. Lots of Common Swift, Swallow and House Martin were passing north.

We left here and then drove to Kelibia Castle with its layered history of Carthaginian, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, French and Germans during the Second World War. The castle walls had been rebuilt but the interior had work to be done in many parts but never the less, was very impressive in its current state. Here, during a short shower, we had a number of Pallid Swift, Common Swift, Little Swift, Black Redstart and another large passage of Cory’s Shearwater out at sea. From here we had a quick visit to a shallow lake near the town of Kelibia where we had Common Snipe, Black-winged Stilt and a lone male Garganey. From here we then drove back to the hotel at Korba and enjoyed the usual drinks and bird list before our evening dinner.

Day 5 Thursday 21st March

Korba to Jedidi Lake, El Jem and Mahres

Sunny with a strong northerly wind and 23°C Another excellent breakfast at 0700 then we checked out at 0800 and drove south for about one hour and stopped at Jedidi Lake to look for both resident and migrant birds. This is a large lake with some reeds and is an attraction to migratory birds being on the edge of a dry, arid area with a backdrop of rugged hills. We were lucky and found 2 White-headed Ducks in the centre of the lake and everyone had good but distant views. Other birds included Shoveler, Pintail, Garganey, Little Stint, Marsh Sandpiper and Alpine Swift as the highlights.

From here we departed south and reached El Jem at 1315 where we had had a three course lunch in a restaurant close to the amphitheatre. After lunch we visited the amphitheatre and walked all around the impressive structure and one of the best preserved in North Africa. It was quite hot as we walked around the structure and much of it restored to its former glory.

From here we had a short drive through town to the nearby Mosaic Museum in El Jem which was just as impressive as the amphitheatre with many preserved mosaics recreated around the walls and depicting past scenes from Roman times. We left the museum about 1620 and drove through a landscape of endless Olive Groves to reach Mahres at 1800 and the Tamaris Hotel beside the sea.

Tunisia Tour Report

After checking in at the hotel we had a quick bird-watch on the shore-line and had Grey Plover, Common Sandpiper and Redshank. We met later for drinks and an excellent evening meal at 2000.

Day 6 Friday 22nd March

Mahres Harbour, Bouhedma National Park and Douz

Sunny with a light north wind and 25°C Up as usual at 0630 and breakfast and at 0730 away in the bus to the harbour at Mahres where we had a mixture of wader and gulls. The low tide in the harbour produced Pintail, Wigeon, Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Bar-tailed Godwit, Greenshank and Caspian Tern. At 0900 we departed from Mahres and drove south then west to the arid area towards the Bouhedma National Park. Just before we reached the park we had Northern Wheatear, Short-toed Lark and Great Grey Shrike.

We reached the Bouhedma National Park entrance by 1030, a remnant of the original North African landscape with numerous Acacia trees and depicting a scene of the dry habitats in central Africa. After registering we drove to the central area and then had a short walk through the Acacia scrub and found Dorca’s Gazelle and Oryx. After about one hour we returned to the central area for our picnic under the trees while watching Hoopoe’s chasing around. After eating we boarded the bus and drove through part of the park up to a spring on the hillside. En route we had Barbary Partridge, Desert Wheatear, Northern Wheatear and a Roller. When we reached the spring it was now quite hot and around 30 degrees C with most birds seeking shade but we found Redstart, Black Wheatear, Chiffchaff, and lots of Subalpine Warbler.

We left the park at 1530 and drove alongside the inaccessible part of Bouhedma NP where we had 28 Ostrich, 17 Addax and 40+ Oryx. From here then south over a rocky ridge where we found a lone Golden Jackal hunting close to the road, a Scrub Warbler and a couple of Desert Lark. We continued south towards Douz and across the flat salt pan of Chott El Fejaj. We reached Douz at 1900 and checked into the smart hotel there on the edge of the desert.

Day 7 Saturday 23rd March

Douz, Jebil National Park and Douz

Sunny with a light north wind and 30°C We awoke to a clear, sunny day and all met for breakfast at 0700 and departed in two 4x4 vehicles for our journey into the desert and to the Jebil National Park. En route we had lots of Hoopoe Larks and had really good fairly close views of males displaying with their backwards loop flight. A café area had Desert Sparrow, White-crowned Wheatear and nearby good views of a Pallid Harrier hunting and killing an unfortunate Subalpine Warbler in the scrub. We also had Long-legged Buzzard, Marsh Harrier, Brown-necked Raven, Woodchat Shrike, Northern Wheatear, Desert Wheatear and a Desert Warbler. At 1100 we reached the Jebil National Park gates and in the entrance had a number of Short-toed Larks, Trumpeter Finch, Temminck’s Horned Lark and a surprise Thick-billed Lark feeding with the other larks. Cream-coloured Coursers were running about nearby on the stone desert and a distant Barbary Falcon was hunting the desert.

4 © Naturetrek April 13

Tunisia Tour Report

We had our picnic lunch in the shade of the park museum and then ventured out for a short walk to look at Addax and Dorca’s Gazelle. We left the Jebil National Park at about 1400 and drove back while birding en route. It was hot now and most birds were in what little shade could be found but we had another Desert Warbler. We were back at the hotel for 1600 and most people relaxed before meeting later for a drink, completing the bird list and having the evening meal.

Day 8 Sunday 24th March

Douz, Matmata and Jerba Island

Sunny with a strong west wind and 33°C We had breakfast at 0730 and left the hotel in the bus at 0830 travelling east towards Matmata and finally Jerba Island. During the morning we stopped a number of times to look at Raven, Desert Wheatear, Red-rumped Wheatear, Short-toed Lark and Desert Lark. It was by now quite hot with a strong wind blowing sand out of the desert and giving the sun a hazy appearance.

We reached Matmata at 1200 and had a look in a “Troglodite Cave” before sitting down to eat in the shade of the “cave hotel”. Being Sunday and the Tunisian children’s holiday it was very busy in the town. After the lunch we left Matmata and drove east across dramatic, rocky scenery where we had Black Wheatear and a lone Gundi sitting under a boulder in the shade. We continued on and then descended to the coastline and towards Jerba Island where there was a large queue of traffic waiting to cross to the island on the ferry. We left the bus in the queue and walked onto the ferry then crossed to Jerba and waited there for the bus to come over about one hour later but it was interesting watching people coming and going while studying the plumage variations on Yellow- legged Gulls. From here we drove on to our hotel at Houmt Souk. It was a long day but an interesting landscape.

Day 9 Monday 25th March

Jerba to Tunis to London

Sunny and 25°C Breakfast at 0700 and checked out then away to Jerba airport for 0900 and said goodbye to Hedi, the bus driver who was driving back to Tunis, checked in and we were soon away for the one hour flight to Tunis airport. We collected our baggage from the airport and boarded a coach to take us to Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. The weather was cloudy, cool and windy at first as we looked around the ruins at Carthage, the Roman water tanks and the Punic Port.

From here we went to a restaurant near Carthage where we had an excellent meal then from here to Sidi Bou Said where we walked around the streets and to the ancient lighthouse. After a coffee/tea we boarded the coach to take us to Tunis airport for our flight to Gatwick at 1945. After checking in and a short wait we were soon away and after a good 3 hour flight landed at Gatwick at 2200. After collecting our baggage we said goodbyes and departed for our various home destinations.

Tunisia Tour Report

Acknowledgements Thanks to Amine our local guide who looked after us all and sorted our accommodation and provided information on Tunisia and its history. Thanks to Hedi the bus driver who was very helpful and was so patient when we wanted to stop to look at the birds and to our 4x4 drivers.

We had 151 species of birds recorded in a whole range of habitats with both resident and migratory birds which proves this is an important North African birding country.

My thanks also go to all the members of the group who contributed in a variety of ways to make this a particularly memorable trip.

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Tunisia Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds ( = recorded but not counted; h = heard only)

March Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 1 Ostrich Struthio camelus 28 1 2 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 50 6 1 3 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 100 10 25 4 Mediterranean Shearwater Puffinus yelkouan 5 5 Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea 30+ 1000s 6 Northern Gannet Morus bassanus 2 10 1 7 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 2 50 2 30 70 8 Cattle Egret Bulbucus ibis    30 9 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 100+   30 4 10 Great Egret Egretta alba 40 2 1 11 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 20 30 20 10 2 12 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 60 50 40 3 13 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 1 1 14 Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 46 4 1 15 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber 1 300 300 26 1000 16 Shelduck Tadorna tadorna 70 30 50 17 Gadwall Anas strepera 5 30 18 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 200   6 3 19 Pintail Anas acuta 40 6 1 20 3 20 Shoveler Anas clypeata 30 20 21 Wigeon Anas penelope 10 6 2 10 22 Teal Anas crecca 10 20 23 Garganey Anus querquedula 6 6 1 12 24 Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris 2 25 Pochard Aythya ferina 3 1 2 26 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 14 27 White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala 2 28 Osprey Pandion haliaetus 1 29 Short-toed Eagle Cicaetus gallicus 10 4 2 1 30 Black Kite Milvus migrans 30 31 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus 5 2 1 32 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus 2 2 1 1 33 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 1 1 1 34 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 20 12 25 3 1 1 1 35 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 8 3 2 1 36 Northern Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1 37 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 10 10 8 4 1 1 1 38 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 1 39 Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides 1 40 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 3 41 Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara 20 42 Common Quail Cotirnix coturnix 1h 1h 43 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 1 6 4 44 Coot Fulica atra   4  100 45 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 1 46 Common Crane Grus grus 450 37 1

Tunisia Tour Report

March Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 47 Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus 30 8 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 12 100   30 49 Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus 2 50 Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor 30 51 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 10 2 52 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 5 6 53 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 3 2 4 6 6 54 Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola 2 20 10 55 Lapwing Vanellus vanellus 6 6 56 Turnstone Arenaria interpres 1 6 57 Sanderling Calidris alba 1 58 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea 5 59 Dunlin Calidris alpina 5 30 60 Little Stint Calidris minuta 20 6 61 Temminck’s Stint Calidris temmincki 8 62 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 1 1 63 Curlew Numenius arquata 20 64 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus 20 65 Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica 10 66 Redshank Tringa totanus 1 3 50 67 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 12 2 68 Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 2 10 69 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 2 70 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 1 71 Green Sandpiper Tringa hypoleuca 2 1 2 72 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 6 7 3 73 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 1 1 2 74 Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus 10 6 6 1 6  75 Slender-billed Gull Larus genei 30 6   76 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus      2  77 Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans 6       78 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 2 2 1 2 2 10 79 Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis 4 2 6 2 80 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 10 10 81 Caspian Tern Chlidonias hybridus 1 1 1 2 82 Rock Dove Columba livia       2   83 Woodpigeon Columba palumbus 1 84 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 10 50 50 50 25 10 10 4 85 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 4  10 10 20 10 10 10 10 86 Little Owl Athene noctua 1 1 87 Common Swift Apus apus 10+ 50 20 20 1 1 4 50 88 Pallid Swift Apus pallidus 2 8 5 6 89 Alpine Swift Apus melba 3 4 2 1 90 Little Swift Apus affinis 3 91 Hoopoe Upupa epops 2 1 1 3 25 3 1 92 Wryneck Jynx torquilla 1 93 Roller Coracias garrulus 1 94 Skylark Alauda arvensis   95 Crested Lark Galerida cristata        96 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae 8 97 Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla 15 50 6

Tunisia Tour Report

March Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 98 Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti 2 3 2 99 Thick-billed Lark Ramphocoris clotbey 1 100 Temminck's Lark Eremophila bilopha 20 1 101 Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes 20 4 102 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 25 2 103 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 4      12   104 House Martin Delichon urbica 20+       105 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis 2 1 106 Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta 1 107 Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus 1 108 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 20 6 2 1 1 109 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 50  1 110 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 2 1 111 Common Bulbul Pycnonatus barbatus 5 7 10 2 6 2 112 Robin Erithacus rubecula 2 1 113 Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 1 4 1 114 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 1 2 4 1 115 Moussier's Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri 5 116 Stonechat Saxicola torquata 6 10 4 1 117 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 1 10 5 1 1 118 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica 119 Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti 2 2 6 120 White-crowned wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga 3 121 Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura 1 10 122 Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta 1 4 123 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 2 3 124 Blackbird Turdus merula 20 10  10 1  125 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 20 20 1 126 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti 2h 3h 127 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 5 128 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 20 6 8 3 1 2 129 Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans 3 10 10 2 130 Desert Warbler Sylvia nana 2 131 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 6 1 132 Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis 1 133 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 4 2 4 134 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 6  2 2 2 2 135 Blue Tit Parus cearuleus 4 2 4 2 136 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis 5 7 2 5 30 2 137 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 2 1 2 138 Fulvous Babbler Turdoides fulvus 20+ 139 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris 2 140 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor 20+ 50 50   20 20 141 Raven Corvus corax 2 6 2 10 1 142 Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis 3 143 Spanish Sparrow Passerhispaniolensis      144 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 20+        145 Desert Sparrow Passer simplex 10 146 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 2 2 6 1 2 1 5 147 Serin Serinus serinus 10 20 30 10 2 10 148 Greenfinch Cardulis chloris    10 20 5

Tunisia Tour Report

March Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 149 Linnet Acanthis cannabina 2 10 20 6 10 150 Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus 10+ 151 Corn Bunting Milaria calandra 6 10

Mammals

Dorcas Gazelle (Bouhedma and Jebil) Scimitar-horned Oryx (Bouhedma) Addax (Bouhedma and Jebil) Gundi (Matmata) Cape Hare (Kerkouane) Golden Jackal (El Haffey) Bat spp

Reptiles and Amphibians

Marsh Frog spp. (various sites) Pond Terrapin (Lebna and Jedidi) Sand Lizard

Butterflies

Small White Large White Green-striped White Eastern Orange Tip Greenish Black Tip Clouded Yellow, Spotted Fritillary Red Admiral Painted Lady Southern Speckled Wood Small Copper Wall Common Blue Cleopatra African Grass Blue Provence Hairstreak