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Tunisia):BITN 772 20,21 (Orbit) 6/5/10 17:58 Page 24 BITN 823_24,25 (tunisia):BITN 772_20,21 (orbit) 6/5/10 17:58 Page 24 See the sites Helen Clifton takes an archaeological tour of Tunisia, Little remains of the original Punic civilisation but nor, it seems, is there a hurry to uncover any traces. centre of the ancient Carthaginian civilisation, site of Tunisia is the site of 200 Roman cities but a lack of funds and the sheer size of the sites mean only a 200 Roman cities – and some even older fraction have been uncovered – even in key areas. But what does remain overground is as impressive as anything in Rome or Athens, with thankfully fewer I am looking out across the Bay of Tunis, a landscape tourists. Tunisians’ lack of a certain archaeological barely changed since the fated queen of ancient thoroughness is more than made up for by the Carthage flung herself on the sword of her lost lover creativity with which they have incorporated sites Aeneas, the Trojan warrior and founder of ancient into modern life. Carthage doubles up as one of Rome. Tunis’s poshest suburbs. In between ruins, and Of course, the myth of Dido and Aeneas’s torrid indeed on top of them, were built the grand post- love story is only a tale, told by the poet Virgil to colonial residences of the French ruling classes. propagate the idea of an all-conquering Rome. But the Tunisians have even created a brash amusement fair – powerful story is easy to believe amidst the grandiose Carthageland – in honour of their ancestors. ruins of Carthage. The imposing pillars sweep into a A modern country about the size of England, blue sky, framed by a sea pounding against massive Tunisia has a population of over ten million. Tunis’s defences. Carthage’s Phoenician founders had a pretty streets are jammed with new cars blaring out the impressive sense of location – had they defeated the latest in fusion pop music, and teenage Romans, North Africa would have become the centre schoolchildren stroll round in branded jeans, trainers, of classical civilisation and the grandeur of the and rucksacks. Much about it suggests a relatively Eternal City a mere footnote in European history. progressive country but Amnesty warned in 2008 that The Phoenicians, a sophisticated seafaring people Tunisia paid only lip service to human rights, its influenced by the Greeks, emigrated to Tunisia in counter-terrorism policies leading to abuses. 1000BC and founded Carthage on the site of what is Images of Zine El Abidine Ben Ali, the country’s now the Tunisian capital, Tunis, in 814BC. But their president for the past 23 years, stare blankly from empire threatened the might of Rome. The every street corner. Although he has publicly Carthaginian commander Hannibal travelled across pronounced his commitment to promoting the Alps with a fleet of elephants and thousands of democracy, in 2002 he sought constitutional men to defeat the Italians on their home turf. When amendments to pursue re-election, and in 2004 and the Romans got to exact their revenge, it was swift 2009 was duly elected on landslides. and brutal. Carthage and other Punic cities were Yet Tunisia seems prosperous. Foreign investment razed to the ground and rebuilt in the image of Rome. is thriving, links with the European Union are strong 24 THE BIG ISSUE IN THE NORTH · 10-16 MAY 2010 BITN 823_24,25 (tunisia):BITN 772_20,21 (orbit) 7/5/10 13:47 Page 25 TUNISIA Facing page: Carthage was home to half a million people at its height. This page: the mosaics of Bulla Regia, and a poster of President Ben Ali and literacy is high. The climate is warm, offering a site, and the only remaining pre-Roman settlement in welcome winter escape for sun-starved Brits. Tunisia. Located on the Cap Bon peninsula, a short My guide, Lilia Maknoune, tells me that although drive from the dazzling beaches of Hammamet and everyone calls themselves Muslim, Tunisians are not Kélibia, Kerkouane literally clings to the coastline. Its generally strict. Girls stroll round with their hair bucolic location, coupled with a lack of uncovered and alcohol is freely available. Celtia beer administrative and civil buildings, has led historians is a refreshing drop after a hard day pounding the to liken it to a Club Med for the ancients. Each house routes of the ancients. Tagines and kebabs are has a perfectly preserved terracotta glazed sit-in bath delicious. Every meal starts with a plate of spicy with views over the coastline, and houses are styled harissa sauce, fresh tuna, olives and bread, and with simple black and white mosaics. specialities like the brik a l’oeuf – tuna and egg in Sidi Bou Said offers a more mainstream peek into thin pastry – are very popular. Yolk runs down my the Tunisian tourism offer. The admittedly chin. Lilia tells me it’s the sign of a good brik. captivating Arab town was left undeveloped by the First stop on the archaeological roundabout is Bulla French colonisers, and clung on to its original blue Tunisia timeline Regia. Dating from 400BC, the city overlooks a and whitewashed buildings and windy streets. A surprisingly lush, rolling landscape, dubbed the favourite among artists and writers including Paul Carthage was founded as a breadbasket of Rome. Barely a fifth of the sprawling Klee, Cervantes and Simone de Beauvoir, it offers a Phoenician colony near site has been excavated, with the only previous sign predictable mix of over-priced restaurants and stalls. modern Tunis. After the fall of of its existence the city gates jutting from the earth. I eat in the oddly named Au Bon Vieux Temps its mother city Tyre in 575BC, Its sophisticated design features subterranean restaurant (the Good Old Days), where you get the Carthage became the leader of chambers that shielded inhabitants from the impression you’re paying for the seats, which the Phoenician colonies. relentless summer temperatures. But the key overlook picturesque views of the bay. My driver, attraction is the incredibly well preserved mosaics Khalid, attempts to take me to one of his friend’s The Romans sacked Carthage that unceremoniously litter basements. I come across shops – Lilia protests. More archaeology beckons. in 146BC. a portrait of a Roman woman, Amphitrite, in what By the time I arrive in Carthage, my antiquity- was her home. The face of antiquity stares back at me, addled mind can barely take in another site. But After being taken over by the her piercing eyes once garnished with diamonds. Carthage’s beauty wakes me from my historical Vandals, Byzantines and A couple of hours drive away is sprawling Dougga, stupor. The gigantic pillars that supported the cold Islamic armies, Tunisia became a 600BC town inhabited by four civilisations and now rooms of the baths complex remain intact, perfectly known as Regency of Tunis a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city’s aqueduct framing my first view of the city. In the bowels of the under the Ottoman Empire. was still in operation as late as 2003 and, until 1963, operation, slaves beavered away to ensure inhabitants Dougga was home to a small community that were clean. The intricate maze of terracotta piping Rivalry between French and worshipped at an 18th century mosque facing the used for underfloor heating is still visible. Italian interests resulted in temple. But the mosque now lies derelict and the At its height in 100BC, Carthage was home to half a the French invasion of Tunisia community was moved when the authorities realised million people and the centre of the Roman colony of and the creation of a the significance of the ruins. Ambivalent shepherds Africa. But the city soon fell to the Vandals, as did protectorate in 1881. graze their sheep around the ruins. Rome, before being taken by the Byzantines, and then My guide explains that the main temple – its ornate Islamic armies in the 7th century. The country achieved fronting and pillars so well preserved – was, until the Visiting Carthage, it seems easy to understand the independence in 1956 and its 2nd century, a Punic site, which was then power this mesmerising natural harbour held for first president, Habib systematically destroyed by the Italian conquerors. successive waves of ambitious conquerors, keen to get Bourguiba, established a strict “The treachery of the Romans,” she mutters. I giggle, a toe grip in the vast African continent. For travellers one-party state, dominating posing for a picture while placing my head on the too, Tunisia represents a fantastic first opportunity to the country for 31 years, shoulders of the decapitated stone emperors lining experience Africa – and a surprising glimpse into a repressing Islamic the main square. The Romans had the same idea – richly preserved shared history. fundamentalism and they made their statues with removable heads to establishing rights for women. ensure new leaders were swiftly venerated. The Big Issue in the North travelled to Tunis with Kerkouane is a 600BC Punic city, also a UNESCO Tunis Air. We stayed at the Regency Tunis Hotel. 10-16 MAY 2010 · THE BIG ISSUE IN THE NORTH 25.
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