. inepanel co uk f interior wall panelling

Installation Tips & Pictures - All Styles Page 1 - Introduction Page 2 - Quantities Page 3 - Skirtings - Dado Rails - Picture Rails, Shelves, Brackets Page 4 - Removing Staples - Cutting Panels - Basic Page 5 - Fixing Methods - Glue, Pins, Screws, Staples Page 6 - Starting Panel - Outside Corners - Inside Corners Page 7 - Mid-Panels - Finishing Panel Page 8 - Cutting Panels - Advanced Page 9 - Decorating

Introduction Finepanels are the simple, stylish and affordable way to create a beautifully panelled interior Cover any type of wall Quick & easy to fit Fixes & links invisibly Whole panels NOT parts Primed & ready to paint Keep skirtings or fit new Moisture resistant Dado height panels from stock

The Installation Guide in every box (also downloadable from www.finepanel.co.uk > Instructions) contains essential fitting instructions and diagrams - all you will need are a few tools, basic DIY skills and the ability to follow simple instructions!

IMPORTANT - Prior to fitting remove from packaging and lay flat in room of installation to acclimatise for 48 hours

Used in conjunction with the Installation Guide this document is designed to further assist you in all aspects of Finepanel installation and includes additional advice, a pictorial installation sequence and tips & diagrams of advanced installation techniques

© Finepanel Ltd 2013 T - 01892 544228 [email protected]

Page 1 Quantities

We recommend that customers use our online Calculator - the quick, easy and accurate way to calculate how many panels and end trims an installation requires and how also much they would cost

This can be found on the www.finepanel.co.uk > Prices page of our website or by clicking on the Calculator symbol at the top of most of our web pages

If you do not have internet access use the tables below to manually work out how many panels and end trims each individual run of panelling requires. Use Table A for all panel styles other than Shaker and Table B for Shaker style panels only. One end trim indicates that only the finishing panel of a panel run is trimmed - two end trims gives you the option to avoid a small finishing panel by trimming both starting and finishing panels. Single panels excepted, by using the table quantities no panel center need finish narrower than half width i.e. 160mm (Shaker 153mm)

Table A - All styles except Shaker Table B - Shaker Only

Wall Dim (mm) Panel Qty Trim Qty Wall Dim (mm) Panel Qty Trim Qty 0 - 450 1 1 0 - 464 1 1 451 - 675 2 2 465 - 696 2 2 676 - 835 2 1 697 - 849 2 1 836 - 1060 3 2 850 - 1081 3 2 1061 - 1220 3 1 1082 - 1234 3 1 1221 - 1445 4 2 1235 - 1466 4 2 1446 - 1605 4 1 1467 - 1619 4 1 1606 - 1830 5 2 1620 - 1851 5 2 1831 - 1990 5 1 1852 - 2004 5 1 1991 - 2215 6 2 2005 - 2236 6 2 2216 - 2375 6 1 2237 - 2389 6 1 2376 - 2600 7 2 2390 - 2621 7 2 2601 - 2760 7 1 2622 - 2774 7 1 2761 - 2985 8 2 2775 - 3006 8 2 2986 - 3145 8 1 3007 - 3159 8 1 3146 - 3370 9 2 3160 - 3391 9 2 3371 - 3530 9 1 3392 - 3544 9 1 3531 - 3755 10 2 3545 - 3776 10 2 3756 - 3915 10 1 3777 - 3929 10 1 3916 - 4140 11 2 3930 - 4161 11 2 4141 - 4300 11 1 4162 - 4314 11 1 4301 - 4525 12 2 4315 - 4546 12 2 4526 - 4685 12 1 4547 - 4699 12 1 4686 - 4910 13 2 4700 - 4931 13 2 4911 - 5070 13 1 4932 - 5084 13 1

As when using the online Calculator first measure each wall carefully (mm). Enter each panel run individually into Table C below, one line at a time. Using the appropriate table above make a note of how many panels and end trims are required and then add them up to establish a Project Total. Work out quantities for different types of panel separately including any shorter ones for under windows or above doors. To find out how much your project would cost for a particular style and size of finepanel either contact us with your quantities or access our online Retail Price List. Note - Stair panels are measured differently for which you will need to access the Stairs or Instructions page of our website.

Table C

Wall Dim (mm) Panel Qty Trim Qty 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Project Total =

Page 2 Skirtings

Slight gaps between panels and skirtings are not normally visible - If Intermittent they are, fill prior to painting. For significant gaps consider scribing Packing and fitting new level skirtings first. If necessary pack out new skirtings intermittently so that their top edges are a similar thickness to the panels (1) Infill Chamfered Gaps may also be reduced by scribing the bottom edge of the panels to Moulding Edge follow the line of the skirting however you will need to have decided on this approach before you start installing as the 885mm high pencil line will need to have been measured from the lowest point - not the highest. 1. 2. 3. If your skirtings are only slightly thinner than the thickness of the Skirtings panels consider applying a 3 x 45° chamfer to the very bottom edge of any Classic, Raised or Beaded panel verticals & end caps to help disguise the small step (2). The horizontals and verticals of Shaker and Heritage panels are flush - so if you need to apply a bottom edge chamfer do so right the way across

If the top edge of your existing skirtings are substantially thinner than the panel thickness consider applying a small infill moulding immediately above the skirting to bring the depth out (3)

Dado Rails

Although Finepanels are only 12-15mm deep, the edges of many dado rail profiles are often thinner. A door architrave matched to your skirtings (ogee, torus, ovolo etc) makes an excellent dado rail - used thick edge down it effectively masks the thickness of the top edge of the 4a. Door Architrave as Dado Rail panels (4a & 4b)

As with the skirtings, if the edge of the dado rail is only slightly thinner than the panel verticals adding a small chamfer can help disguise the step. To further reduce the step the lower edge of the dado rail can also be planed to slightly increase its thickness (not shown) Door Packing Packing Architrave Strip Strip Alternatively pack out behind a thin dado rail with a 6-9mm strip of MDF - sufficient to bring the dado forward just enough to mask the top edge of the panels (5)

When installing panels one above another choose a symmetrical dado profile - pack out behind with an MDF strip to mask both the top edge of the lower panels and the bottom edge of the upper ones (6) Dado Symmetrical Rail Dado Rail Picture Rails, Shelves & Brackets

4b. 5. 6. The top edge of a taller panel installation may be finished with a picture rail (7) or other decorative moulding - packed out as necessary

Dado Rails Alternatively a shelf may be supported by intermittent softwood brackets glued and screwed, from behind, to panel verticals and end Plate trims prior to installation. Packing Screws Shelf Strip Available in 3 sizes, Small, Medium & Large, our 25mm thick primed softwood brackets share a common elegant profile and may be used in either orientation (vertical being the stronger). They are suitable for supporting loads ranging from a simple lightweight plate shelf (small), a row of CD’s (medium) or a heavy run of paperback books (large)

Shelves can be made from lengths of primed 18mm MDF - preferably with their leading edge matched to the profile of your skirtings. To Picture make a plate shelf rout a groove into the top surface set back from the Rail leading edge - alternatively add a small bead or moulding to retain the Brackets (mm) plates instead. Attach shelves invisibly from above (8) S - 75 x 50 M - 112.5 x 75 When installing a plate shelf below door height ensure L - 150 x 100 that the door can still open fully 7. 8.

Picture Rails, Shelves & Brackets Page 3 Removing Staples

Staples are used during panel manufacture to hold face trims in place whilst the glue dries - they only need to be removed if in line with, or close to, a proposed cut. Note - The type of staples used splay outwards inside the wood and so are wider than they appear to be

Measure finishing or starting panels for cutting as described in the Installation Guide for your particular panels. Draw a pencil line where the cut is to be made and circle all staples within 10mm of this line. Remove the circled staples one at a time by pushing a bradawl or similar narrow metal tool under the head of a staple with a twisting action (1). Raise the head of each staple until it 1. projects slightly (2) - then either insert the bradawl fully and lever the staple out or extract it with pincers (3)

Check every circle to make sure that all staples have indeed been removed before you make any cuts. (Don't worry - trims are securely glued on and won't come off even if all staples are removed!)

2.

3.

Cutting Panels - Basic (see also Cutting Panels - Advanced on Page 8)

Having removed any obstructing staples clamp the panel face down to a work bench other stable surface. Using a sharp circular saw with dust collector, set the width of the fence to cut along the appropriate side of the line. Set the depth of cut sufficient to cut through both back panel and face trims (15-18 mm nom) before carefully making the cut. Always wear a face mask to prevent dust inhalation

Alternatively use a sharp jig or hand saw then plane or sand the cut edge straight (Tip - A sharp hand or 'Jack' plane is easier to control than an electric one. Use a sanding block to avoid soften- ing the edge)

4.

As it's unlikely that the offcuts can be used elsewhere why not use them to try out possible paint colours?

Page 4 Fixing Methods Glue, Pins, Screws, Staples

Permanently fixed panels should be glued into position then pinned (1a & 1b) or screwed (2a & 2b) or stapled (not shown) to hold them in place whilst the glue dries - allowing the next panel to be applied immediately. Plasterboard and wooden surfaces can generally can be pinned or stapled into - masonry nails may be used on harder walls however always wear goggles when hammering. If a wall is very hard or very soft use plugs and screws instead

Important - Whatever the chosen fixing method always check for concealed services before inserting any fixings

When fixing with screws, before applying any glue to the rear of the 1a. panel, drill and countersink the holes through from the front. Ensure that all countersunk holes fall within the 11mm zone beyond the end of each horizontal and do not encroach into the gap behind the tongue. Accurately locate the pre-drilled panel 'dry' and mark the hole positions on the wall. Remove the panel then drill holes and insert wall plugs.

Finepanels are manufactured to have a firm, positive fit and so may require a light tap to fully engage – especially any that are gently curved, which is normal. Test the fit of your panels before you install them as occasionally a location tongue may require ‘easing’ if excessively tight – lightly sanding its machined face to remove any debris or primer before glue is applied and the panel attached is simpler than trying to ‘ease’ a panel afterwards

1b. Finally apply glue to the rear of the panel, locate and screw into place. (1 1/4" x No6 c/sk woodscrews into red wall plugs are usually adequate)

As the removal of glued-on panels may result in wall damage, non-permanent installations may be attached 'dry' using screws only (not pins only or staples only) - It's easier to fill in a few screw holes than re-finish a wall however 'dry' installations are inherently less robust than glued

Heads of all fixings must be made flush prior to installing the next panel - either tap them in with a nail punch or countersink them first

2a. Holding the first panel Wall pins are useful to hold a starting panel in place just until the glue dries. Having HALLWAY positioned the panel accurately tap in long pins immediately adjacent to the starting upright. Do not hammer in fully - leave enough projecting to be able to extract them with pincers once the glue is dry. Fill any 2b. holes left before painting Brace

Protection Starting Panel

When panelling a hallway (3), instead of pinning, brace short Brace lengths of wood against the opposite wall to press the first panel into place whilst the glue dries - thus avoiding nail holes. Page 5 Protect both wall and panel surfaces to avoid marking them 3. Starting panel

Provided they are sound, dry and relatively flat Finepanels can be installed directly over the existing finish of most types of wall. Having measured and planned your installation mark a pencil line round the room at the height of your panels above the

Level highest point of the skirting. (2C-885mm panels illustrated)

Tip - Use an end trim as a measuring stick 885mm See fixing methods on Page 5 to establish the most suitable means of attachment. If possible start with a whole panel and apply 1. a 6mm wide zig-zag bead of panel adhesive (or a regular pattern of 25mm glue blobs) to the back (1) before pressing firmly into position prior to fixing Outside Corners

2a. 2b. 3. If starting at an outside corner work away from it in both directions. Position the first panel such that it substantially overlaps the second, leaving just the chamfer (angled apex) of the second panel exposed - this will help to conceal the join (2a & 2b)

Whenever you install a panel always ensure that its top edge aligns with the pencil line and, using a spirit level, that the vertical edge is indeed vertical (3) If necessary pack out temporarily between panel and skirting to support it in position until the fixings have been inserted

Inside Corners Inside corners are an ideal opportunity to conceal installation tolerances and reduce the amount of scribing necessary. Where possible plan your installa- tion to avoid having to fit panels accurately at both ends of a run. Preferably install runs of panels sequentially - moving around the room in the same Starting Panel direction. Use the starting panel of a new run to cover the gap at the end of the previous run - there's no need to be any more accurate than to within 5mm, although gaps of up to 8mm can be successfully hidden Gap End Cap up to 8mm Butt Joint Do not try to start with a cut panel and end with a whole one as it is unlikely to fit exactly - similarly cut the last panel of a run only Cut Panel after the others have been attached

4.

Page 6 2C-885mm 3a. 2. 1. 4. 3b. Page 7 prior topainting(6) pin, itinposition(5).Fill Glue and,ifnecessaryandsandanygaps Choose themostsuitableformatoftopmoulding (see Page3). previous one(4) panel ofthesubsequentruntomaskanygapatend Continue aroundtheroominsamedirectionusingfirst the gluedries retain theendtrimwithmaskingtapeortemporarypinswhilst edge tightly to the cut edge of the finishing panel. If necessary the looseendtrimdirectlytowall(3a&3b)-butting its solid Bond the panelinposition(2). 8) Glueandpin/screw/staple - Page - Advanced Panels also Cutting 4 (see hand sawasoutlinedonPage Measure thefinishingpanelandcuttosizewith a circular,jigor rebate edgeasnecessarytoensureverticality Corners -Page6)Scribethe gap isrequired-seeInside tolerance flush with the adjoining wall. (Pack away from it up to 8mm if a end trim,rebateedge up theloose At theendofrunfirstoffer Finishing Panel progress flush. Check successive panelsforverticalityand level asyou not penetratetheprojectingtongueandthattheirheadsallfinish 11mm fixingzonebeyondtheendofhorizontals,thattheydo the glue dries (1). Ensurethat any fixings are insertedinto the sively usingpins, screws orstaplestohold them in placewhilst Aligning the panel topswith the pencil line, link panels progres Mid-Panels 5. 6. - Cutting Panels - Advanced One Cut or Two?

Measuring standard finishing and starting panels for cutting is Butt-Joint outlined in the relevant Installation Guide for your panels. Removing Staples Whether cut panels are desirable at both ends of a run will depend on the particular installation. In many cases finishing with a small cut panel is quite acceptable - especially if it can be configured to meet another small panel at an internal corner. Unless circumstances dictate otherwise, by careful choice of either one or two cuts, the centre of any cut panel need be no narrower than half width - 160mm (Shaker 153mm) - see Quantities - Page 2 1. Butt-Cut Finishing Panel Cut Finishing Panels - Advanced

Instead of a butt-joint, a lap-joint can be used to finish a run. This enables the loose vertical end trim to be glued to the finishing 18-22mm extra panel as well as, or instead of, to the wall - particularly useful if the wall is very uneven. To achieve this the finishing panel is cut 18 - 22 mm wider than instructed for a butt joint (1) and the horizontals subsequently reduced in length

2. Lap-Cut To accurately establish the position of the three shallow cuts required first fit the wider cut panel 'dry' and offer up the loose end trim flush to the wall (or packed out for a tolerance gap) If scribing is necessary do so on the solid edge - not the rebate edge. Using the rebate edge of the end trim as a guide, mark a line on the front face of each horizontal (2). Take the panel off and remove any staples behind the intended cuts. Lay the panel face-up and with a fine tenon saw cut through each horizontal, taking care not to saw into the surface of the back panel. (Tip - Mark & cut x3 Use scrap pieces of laminate to protect the surface, particularly either side of the mid-horizontals) Working from the cut edge of the panel, cleanly remove the ends of the three horizontals with a sharp chisel (3), sanding flat if necessary

Remove horizontal Refit the modified panel 'dry' and offer up the end trim, its 3. ends with chisel x3 rebate overlapping the the back panel. Adjust as necessary to achieve a snug fit between the cut ends of the three horizontals and the rebate edge of the trim. Glue and screw/pin/staple the finishing panel to the wall in the usual way before applying glue to the end trim rebate (or all over the back) and bonding it into position (4). If necessary retain the end trim with masking tape or temporary pins whilst the glue dries. Fill and sand any gaps or pins holes prior to painting

Glue Glue (optional) Cut Starting Panels - Advanced

4. A lap-joint between a loose vertical end trim and a cut starting panel may be achieved in a similar way. Measure the panel as instructed adding on a further 22mm in addition to the 22mm allowance for the tongue as shown in the Installation Guide for Lap-Joint your panels. Cut off and discard the fixed vertical trim portion of the panel then cut and chisel-off the ends of the horizontals as above. Glue / pin the loose vertical end trim directly onto the panel. Fit the newly modified narrower panel as if it were a whole starting panel (5)

Modified Starting Panel

5.

Page 8 Decorating Preparation

Having allowed the glue to dry, tap in any pins with a nail punch and fill any holes and gaps with interior filler. Rub down panels lightly using a fine rectangular foam sanding block to get right into the corners - dust down

If applying wallpaper above the panelling paint the panelling first - where possible also lay the floor covering after painting. If already laid, mask-off the edges of the flooring next to the skirting and protect the rest from paint splashes

Finepanels are pre-primed white and ready to paint. Minor areas of exposed MDF are usually covered by two top coats however if, during installation, substantial areas of primer become removed they should be lightly rubbed down and re-primed white prior to applying the top coats

Paint Type

Finepanels may be finished using interior wood paint such as Eggshell, Gloss or Emulsion (Satin shows less marks than Matt). Oil-based paint is generally harder wearing than water-based albeit less kind to the environment. Two coats will probably be necessary as oil-based paints require an undercoat and water- based paints need two coats for effective coverage

Painting Order

Paint one panel at a time treating each as if as if it were a panelled door - follow the painting order below for best results. Apply paint sparingly to avoid drips at the corners

Work Direction Starting at one end of a run, paint around the edges (1) of the top compartment with a small brush, getting right into the corners. Next paint its centre (2) with a larger brush or a fine (gloss) mini- roller (Gives smoother results than a 'woolly' emulsion roller - even with emulsion!) Finish with light strokes up and down - they show up less than side-to-side ones. Move down and repeat for the compartment(s) below

Starting with the top one, paint any horizontal trims working side- to-side with a brush or mini-roller. Lastly paint the vertical trim (4) before moving on to repeat the procedure on the next panel

Paint all panels before painting any top mouldings (5) and then lastly the skirting board (6)

Support

If you have any questions or queries or are unable to resolve any problems you encounter please e-mail us at [email protected] and we will make every effort to assist you. Constructive comments and installation tips are always welcome as are pictures of your finished installation

Thank you for choosing to install Finepanels . inepanel co uk f interior wall panelling

Designs Registered Finepanel™ is a trademark of Finepanel Ltd Manufactured in the UK from responsibly sourced materials Installation Tips & Pictures - All Styles v 2.1 © Finepanel Ltd 2013 Page 9