© Lonely Planet Publications 98

Atlantic Coast ﺷﺎﻃﻰء ﺍﻷﻃﻠﻨﻄﻲ ATLANTIC COAST ATLANTIC It was once literally the end of the earth: those living around the ancient Mediterranean believed there was no land beyond Morocco’s Atlantic Coast. Now it’s one of Morocco’s most prosperous regions, home to the nation’s capital, to its major city and some of its fin- est sights. Miles of glorious sands peppered with small fishing villages, historic ports and fortified towns weave along Morocco’s blustery coast. Throughout history, control of this coast was imperative for both invading forces and local tribes hoping to expand their empires. The Phoenicians, Romans, Portuguese, Spanish and French all fought to control the region and left a legacy in the beautiful walled towns, wide boulevards and relaxed attitude of this part of Morocco. The coast has its beauty and its eyesores. A large chunk of Morocco’s population lives in this area and the modern cities are far more cosmopolitan than those of the interior – their art-deco and neo-Moorish architecture, stylish cafés and liberal attitudes a far cry from tradi- tional Morocco, but increasingly valued by locals and visitors. Beyond these two cities lie Assilah and other fortified towns, and around these are several reserves that showcase the coast’s rich birdlife. But the developers are arriving with their plans for mega-resorts, golf courses and huge marinas, hoping in the process to transform a region that, for many, already has more than enough attractions.

HIGHLIGHTS

Dress to the nines and join the in-crowd at the hip Blvd de la Corniche in Casablanca ( p114 ) Merdja Zerga National Park Revel in the whitewashed colonial 1920s architecture in the spotless streets of Rabat Rabat ( p120 ) Casablanca Wander the ramparts, gorge on fresh fish Azemmour El-Jadida or just sit back and soak up the atmos- phere in laid-back Essaouira ( p153 ) Oualidia Drive along the coastal road from El- Jadida ( p144 ) to Essaouira ( p153 ), where the fields go down to the wild shores of the Atlantic Gorge on oysters or a fresh seafood Essaouira platter and catch a wave at the idyllic, crescent-shaped bay of Oualidia ( p149 ) Enjoy the quiet pace and authenticity of the old medina in Azemmour ( p148 ), between the sea and the Oum ar-Rabia river See a cloud of pink flamingos fluttering like huge butterflies in the sunset while boating on the waters of the Merdja Zerga National Park ( p133 ) TELEPHONE CODE: 03 POPULATION: 4.7 MILLION AREA: 227,420 SQ KM ATLANTIC COAST 99 (25km) Sidi- Kacem Jebel To Azrou Khenifra

(1681m) Loukkos Volubilis Ouezzane Bouhachem Dchar Ghanem Sebou M'Soura Meknès S P A I N Ceuta (94km) To Fez Souk el-Arba du Rharb Aïn-Leuh (60km) Lixus Tangier Oued Oued-Zem El-Ksiba Kebir To Tetouan (57km); Khemisset Ksar el-

Oued Assilah

Bargha Merdja H I G H A T L A S A L T A H G I H Had Gharbia Airport N6 Larache Cádiz A2 Boujad A1 Moulay Beni-Mellal Tangier-Boukhalef Kenitra Forest of Mamora Ez-Zhiliga Sidi el-Yamani Souq Tnine de Bousselham Zerga Bin-el-Ouidane Oued-Zem Merdja Kasba-Tadla Rabat-Salé Airport Rommani Azilal Merchouch P22 Aïn el- Aouda Bourhaba Lac de Sidi Sidi Salé 00 100 km 60 miles Sidi- Bettache ATLANTIC COAST •• History COAST ATLANTIC Yahya Mellah Demnate

RABAT Oued Fkih-Ban-Salah Ben El Borouj Slimane Mehdiya Plage Khouribga Plage des Nations Temara Plage Jardins Exotiques The Portuguese established several trad- Mohammedia Settat ing posts from Assilah to Agadir in the late in the late to Agadir ing posts from Assilah 15th and early 16th centuries. A period prosperity followed, as the spoils great of were routes caravan from the trans-African and Chellah – along the coast. Some of these and Chellah – along the coast. Some of settlements went on to become the western- the Roman Empire. most outposts of Mechra Benâbbou Airport Benguérir Sidi-Bou-Othmane Marrakesh International Casablanca N9 Mohammed V Skhour Rehamna S-Bennour Boulâouane Airport Ménara El-Jadida Azemmour O C E A N S-Smaïl N7 A T L A N T I C Youssoufia N8

Chichaoua sift Sidi Bouzid Khemis Bouguedra R204 Ten Moulay Abdallah

Safi Oued N1 Oualidia Oued Ksob Lalla Fatna Souira Kedima Douar al-Arab Sidi Bouchta Cap Beddouza Essaouria Mogador Airport Sidi Kaouki R207

Diabat Essaouira

Cap Sim Île de ATLANTIC COAST ATLANTIC

Mogador HISTORY Utile (use- called it Le Maroc French The ful Morocco), and throughout the country’s the Atlantic Coast of history, this stretch crucial to its prosperity. has remained From the 10th to 6th century BC, seafaring Phoenicians found it useful to run trading posts – including Liks (Lixus), Essaouira Atlantic Atlantic Coast lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST ternational flights. ternational flights. has afargreaterCasablanca number of in- also have international airports,though Oujda, Fez, Meknès andMarrakesh. Both train linewith direct links toTangier, for theregion. Bothare onthenational are transporthubs andRabat Casablanca THERE& AWAY GETTING roccan touristsinJulyandAugust only. are are chilly. crowdedwithMo- Beaches interior. come respite fromthestiflingheatof the ocean breezes, makingthecoastawel- highs ofSummer sees 25°Cto27°Cwith withinaday.is generally blownouttosea itrainsfrequently,although wetweather warmerand,to 12°C.Springisslightly moist, withaverage temperatures of 10°C year-round.pleasant Winters are mildand The climate, moderated bytheocean,is CLIMATE and resorts open. ists, are for aboomasnewmarinas set coast, which already attractforeign tour- try. Picturesque smallertownsalongthe region isthemostprosperousincoun- thriving resorts upanddownthecoast, industrial portsatAgadir andSafithe again,andthankstothehugeimportance concentrated here. Shipping isof major large partof thecountry’sproductionis are both located alongthecoast,anda andtheeconomichubCasablanca, Rabat, MarocLe Utile. Thepoliticalcapital lantic ports. routes beyondtheMediterranean andAt- while theirmerchants openedsafer trade tried tobringtheregion undercontrol century, whenthegreat Europeannavies co’s AtlanticCoastcameinthelate 18th this way. amillionpeopledisappearedsom. Over intoslaverythey couldsell orholdforran- wall inEngland,lookingforEuropeans the region andraidedasfarafieldCorn- much of pirates terrorised thecoast.These Corsairs18th century,Barbary controlled soon becamealucrative tradeand,bythe creasingly precious bountyonboard,piracy shipped fromMoroccanports.Within- 100 Throughout theyearAtlantic watersThroughout Today theAtlanticCoastisonceagain The endof thegoldeneraforMoroc- CASABLANCA(DARAL-BAÏDA) ••History Hassan IIMosque. mark, theenormousandincredibly ornate centre, modernistland- andtoCasablanca’s art-deco andmodernistgems of thecity in sharpcontrasttotheHispano-Moorish, architecture. andstrikingcoloniallic parks,fountains well-keptas wellwideboulevards, pub- ing socialproblems andhuge shanty towns jams,simmer- traffic home tosuffocating with afascinatinghistory. are realising thattheycomefromacountry ration. More andmore youngCasablancais hip clubs.ButEuropeisnottheonlyinspi- together inrestaurants, bars, beaches and and inthewaymenwomenhangout Morocco. Thisisreflected intheirdress, open toWestern waysthanotherplacesin the grimyshantytownsoncity’sedge. found wealth,butmanyothers languish in made itgoodandproudlyflaunttheirnew- dreaming of abetter lifestyle. Many have and stillattractsdroves of theruralpoor the earlydaysof theFrench Protectorate, showing offitswealthandachievements. old pirate lair islookingtowardsthefuture, designers have awindowontheworld.The best contemporary artandwhere fashion the industryis,where artgalleriesshowthe is where themoneyisbeingmade,where resents Moroccoonthemove: Casablanca anditrep-economical andculturalcapital, Moroccan cities,butitisthecountry’s more time. Itmaynotbeas exotic asother train, butthesprawlingmetropolisdeserves tochangelong enough planesorcatch a Many travellers in stay justCasablanca pop 3.8million AL-BAÏDA) CASABLANCA (DAR federation of Berber tribes. The Almohadsfederation of Berber acon- under theBarghawata, gional capital In the7thcentury AD,Anfabecameare- onwards. Anfa fromthe6th centuryBC ing postinthe now upmarket suburbof asmalltrad- established The Phoenicians HISTORY The bleakfacadesof thesuburbs stand isfullofCasablanca contradictions.It is are andmoreCasablancais cosmopolitan, arapidexpansionduring The citysaw ﺒﻴﻀﺎء lonelyplanet.com ﺍﻟﺪﺍﺭﺍﻟ

ATLANTIC COAST 101 ( p112 ), Café Maure Café ( p104 ) for shopping and cakes the ) for shopping and cakes the p104 ( ( p105 ), then head to p105 ( The CTM bus stationThe CTM Casa and Port train To the southeast is the Quartier Habous To the southeast is the Quartier Habous Ave Hassan II leads to Place Mohammed II leads to Place Mohammed Hassan Ave The city’s main streets branch out from branch The city’s main streets Casablanca still has huge disparities of Casablanca of disparities still has huge Under the first French resident-general, resident-general, French the first Under ( p106 ), taking art-deco in the best of Casa’s p106 ( station are in the centre of the city. Casa the city. of in the centre station are the centre station is 2km east of Voyageurs (also know as the nouvelle medina) and to medina) and to (also know as the nouvelle suburb the beachfront the west is Aïn Diab, and nightclubs. hotels home to upmarket V, easily recognised by its grand art-deco V, easily recognised Quartier Gauthier buildings. administrative the Parc of west and southwest and Maarif, the ac- most of where are de la Ligue Arabe, and restaurants. tion is, with shops, bars here: Ave des Forces Armées Royales (Ave des Forces Armées Royales (Ave Ave here: I, Blvd Mo- Moulay Hassan Ave des FAR), hammed V and Blvd Houphouët Boigny. ORIENTATION ORIENTATION Casablanca city. The is a sprawling modern town – is tiny of medina – the oldest part the city close to the and sits in the north of the medina is Place port. To the south of trafficjunction des Nations Unies, a large the city. that marks the heart of wealth, and the shanty towns (see p105 ) ) p105 towns (seewealth, and the shanty train journey in easily visible on the are daily migrants arrive from the airport. New and for every success, others one that finds continue to struggle. Louis Hubert Gonzalve Lyautey, architect architect Lyautey, Hubert Gonzalve Louis Casablanca as the Prost redesigned Henri new protectorate. the of economic centre His wide boulevards and modern urban survive,planning still city as and mark the than Moroccan. However, European more his the success of underestimated Lyautey his far beyond the city grew own plans and the WWII, By the end of schemes. elaborate 700,000 and Casablanca had a population of shanty towns. was surrounded by heaving ( p114 ). CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Orientation •• AL-BAÏDA) (DAR CASABLANCA Quartier Habous ( p113 ) in the stunning Zevaco building filled with local filled with local building ) in the stunning Zevaco p113 ( walking tour Hassan II Mosque Paul de la Corniche

Blvd ( p113 ) by Phare el-Hank before joining the city’s pretty young things in young things in joining the city’s pretty el-Hank before ) by Phare p113 ( French-Moroccan way. Treat yourself to stunning views over the ocean by dining at one of the the ocean by dining at one of the to stunning views over yourself way. Treat French-Moroccan cliff-top restaurants the bars and clubs along yummy mummies. Take a taxi to the a taxi Take yummy mummies. in the ramparts, for lunch. Follow the makingheritage, before your way to the 24 hours 24 hours at with breakfast Start your day CASABLANCA IN… CASABLANCA IN… In the early 15th century, the port became 15th century, the port became In the early The Portuguese the colony abandoned was booming By the mid-1800s Europe trade broughtIncreased prosperity to destroyed it in 1188, and 70 years later, the the later, years and 70 it in 1188, destroyed over. took Merenids Anfa and racketeers. for pirates haven a safe later a serious such became threat pirates that the Portuguesein the century sent 50 They men to subdue them. ships and 10,000 The local tribes ruins. a stateleft Anfa in of however to terrorise continued the trade a second attack by the provoking routes, the later PortugueseSixty years in 1515. fortifi- to stay,Portuguese erecting arrived port Casa the cations and renaming Branca House).(White a devastating de- in 1755 after earthquake the damaged stroyed Lisbon and severely Casa Sultanwalls of Sidi Moham- Branca. subsequently resettled med ben Abdallah but it neverand fortified the town, regained its former importance. By 1830 it had few than 600 inhabitants. more sup- and turned to Morocco for increased plains grain and wool. The fertile plies of soon supplying around Casablanca were and traders and agents European markets, back to the city. Spanish merchants flocked the city Casablanca and by the renamed the 20th century the French beginning of an artificial permission to build had secured harbour. but the activities and influence the region, the Europeans also caused resentment. of in 1907 when Europe- Violence erupted The ans desecrated a Muslim cemetery. jumped at the pro-colonialist French to send troops to quell the dis- chance company and a warship a French pute; and bombarded marines soon arrived of the new the town. By 1912 it was part of Protectorate. French lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST as many people(andsome localstreet di- very specificwhen askingfordirections, being replaced withMoroccan names.Be FrenchCasablanca’s street namesare slowly Names Street See p128 formore transportinformation. and theairportis30kmsoutheast of town. Casablanca 102

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o n ATLANTIC COAST 103 8.30am- (ONMT; Map h 022 221524; 022 221524; 022 376330; 022 541010; www 022 203051; www x 022 477255; 48 Blvd 022 477255; 48 8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri) x x 022 248172; www.supra x (Map p110 ; cnr Blvd p110 (Map x h 022 208080; 15 Rue Indriss x 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, x (Map p110 ; h (Map p110 ; Place Ahmed el-Bidaoui; p110 (Map (Map p110 ; (Map p110 ; (Map p110 ; (Map p110 ; cnr Blvd de Paris & Ave & Ave ; cnr Blvd de Paris p110 (Map (Map p110 ; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat) 8am-noon (off Map p102 ; p102 (off Map (Map p110 ; 022 541212; 313 Blvd Mohammed V)022 541212; 313 Blvd Mohammed 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Open longer hours; has an 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Open longer 022 279533; 55 Rue Omar Slaoui; h 9am-9pm) Good for after-hours9am-9pm) and weekend x h (Map p110 ; Hôtel Hyatt Regency,; Hôtel des Nations Place p110 (Map ( post office x

h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri,8am-noon Sat) Near the youth .carlsonwagonlit.com/en/countries/ma; 60-62 Rue Araibi Jilali) A respected international chain of travel agencies. Mohammed V & Rue Chaouia; Mohammed V) Separate de change that is very bureau central; American cashed (Amex) travellers cheques Express for free. 98 Blvd Mohammed V; .wasteels.fr, in French; 26 Rue Léon L’Africain) in French; .wasteels.fr, A good place for cheap intercontinental rail tickets. Lahrizi; and cashes travellers cheques. ATM p110 ; tourstravel.com; Casa Voyageurs train station) Organises rail and bus connections. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES roughAlthough Casablanca pretty can feel for safe it’s relatively around the edges, dispari- huge are tourists. However, there city, you need – as in any large wealth ties of your wits about you. Travellers to keep Syndicat d’Initiative Travel Agencies Carlson Wagonlit Supratours Voyages Wasteels Post Central Market post office FedEx Main Medina post office h hostel. Tourist Information Although tourist offices the staff polite, are little practical use. very of in Casablanca are for informa- Try www.visitcasablanca.ma ask the receptionist or you travel tion before for help. at your hotel Office National Marocain du Tourisme BMCE Crédit du Maroc Voyages Schwartz [email protected]; Rue Prince 112 Moulay Abdal- lah)not cash or sell travellers does Amex representative; cheques. Wafa Cash Hassan II; services. Unis; 9am-12.30pm Sat) 9am-12.30pm Sat) noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri) 022 x 8am-5pm CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Dangers & Annoyances Annoyances & Dangers •• AL-BAÏDA) (DAR CASABLANCA 24hr) Off Rue h h (SAMU; 022 264426; 12 022 264426; 12 022 274039; 27 Rue 24hr) 022 779870; www 022 200445; www x x 24hr) h x 022 221460; http:// cnr Place Oued al-Makhazine x 10am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sat) 10am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sat) 9am-midnight) Very clean 9am-midnight) Very 15; h x 022 484810; 140 Blvd Moham- 022 265921; 51 Rue Tata; per hr 022 265921; 51 Rue Tata; 022 229523; 29 Rue Abdelkader h h x 022 274613; 81 Blvd Mohammed ( (Centro Cultural Español; Map x 022 444444, 022 202020; house 022 444444, 022 202020; house x (Map p102 ; x (Map p102 ; x (Map ; p102 (Map (Map p102 ; 9am-midnight) 24hr) (Map ; p110 x ( 24hr) Private doctors who make house 9am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) Offers9am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) a good library, (Map p102 ; h h 24hr) Private ambulance service. h 8.30am-11pm) (Map ; p102 h 022 267337; http://casablanca.cervantes.es, in (Map p110 ; (Map ; p110 10am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sat) Conducts10am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sat) German h (Map p110 ;

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films, lectures, exhibitions and other events. V; per hr Dh6; .ambafrance-ma.org, 121-123 Blvd Mohammed in French; Zerktouni; al-Moftaker; per hr Dh8; and modern, with fast connection. p102 ; and cultural eventsHosts film screenings and has a library. Spanish; 31 Rue d’Alger; casablanca.aca.org.ma; 10 Place Bel Air; casablanca.aca.org.ma; Mon-Fri) of the American The cultural centre Language Center and library; bring ID to get in. Rue Moussa ben Nousseir) Books by French and Moroccan and Moroccan Nousseir) Books by French Rue Moussa ben writers,as well as road maps. & Blvd d’Anfa; med Zerktouni; per hr Dh10; med Zerktouni; .goethe.de/casablanca, in German; 11 Place du 16 Novem- bre; cultural film screening, the occasional classes and presents eventand exhibition.

There are banks – most with ATMS and and banks – most with ATMS are There offices – on almost every foreign-exchange Casablanca. of corner in the centre street Money Polyclinique Atlas Night Pharmacy Night Medical Services Medical Services LGnet Gig@net

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Cultural Centres Cultural Centres Dar America Librairie Gauthier of English-language classics as well as books on Morocco, books on Morocco, as well as classics of English-language North AfricaMoulay Youssef. Just off Blvd and Islam. lonelyplanet.com 252525; call Dh350; calls. Mohammed ben Ali, Quartier Gauthier; Jean Jaures. ATLANTIC COAST rary Moroccan andinternational art. gorgeous 1930s ing neartheParc delaLigueArabe,the majestic palmtree–lined promenade. Parc de laLigueArabe ture gooff thissquare. Tothesouthis linedwithwonderfularchitec-boulevards Ministry of Defense building.Many grand al-Maghrib,Bank andthe thepostoffice ing thelawcourts,splendid Morocco,includ- in buildingsthroughout designswerebuildings whose later copied The grandsquare issurroundedbypublic architect Henri Prostreally went to town. Abdallah. The the pedestrianstreet of RuePrince Moulay slowly beingrevived, particularlyaround The run-downMarché quarter is Central tral strolling inthearea aroundthe restored. Thebestwaytotake itallinisby colonial buildings,someof which are being French-built citycentre ispacked withgrand apart fromtheHassan IIMosque,butthe It isoften hasnosights thatCasablanca said Casa Downtown outside theHassan IIMosque. out thefunkynightlife orgorollerskating gallery, shop tillyoudropinMaarif, try of theircity,gooutfordinner,visitanart pleasurescais inenjoyingthecosmopolitan views of theCorniche. JointheCasablan- of theQuartierHabous andthebeachfront Ligue Arabe,thegentrified market district of thecitycentre, thepeacefulParc dela hoods: thewonderfulart-decoarchitecture appeal isinstrollingarounditsneighbour- grand Hassan IIMosque,thecity’smain ditional touristattractions.Apartfromthe workaday placewithremarkably few tra- ists are few intownandit’svery much a ternational businessthanintourism.Tour- and localsare farmore interested inbigin- isMorocco’scommercialhub Casablanca SIGHTS taxi. late fromabarorclub,it’sbesttotake a and aroundtheoldmedina. Cominghome city centre andbeextravigilantin at night should take care whenwalkingaroundthe 104 7pm Tue-Sat) Roudani;admissionDh10; 295087; 30BlvdBrahim Located inaconverted art-deco build- , or by doing the walking tour (see , orbydoingthewalkingtour(see p106 ). CASABLANCA(DARAL-BAÏDA) ••Sights holds Place MohammedV Villa desArts Villa

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contempo- wilaya, Marché Cen- Marché h x 9am- the 022 shops, bakeries and cafés. ofand has a decentselection bazaars, craft Habous ismore peacefulthanmostsouqs some last-minute souvenir shoppingtodo, al-Khadra cnr BlvdMohammedZerktouni &Al-Massira the timeof writing,the head forinternational designerbrands.At the city’sbusinesscentre andtheplaceto Southwest of theParc delaLigueArabeis Maarif panoramic viewsover thesea. as the blanca’s 18th-centuryfortifications.Known thelastremains ofthe port,you’llsee Casa- Jemaa ash-ChleuhArsalane. the tial. Theoldcity’smainFridaymosqueis rest of themedinaremains largely residen- goods and,reputedly, stolengoods.The underwear,household high-sheen shoes, lanes totheeastare withcheap piledhigh restored ner of thePlacedesNationsUniesnear medinas. characterso itlacksthemedieval of other the buildingsdate fromthe19thcentury, their massive expansionprogram.Mostof the citywasbefore theFrench embarked on (Map p110 ) gives anideaof justhowsmall smallanddilapidated Casablanca’s Ancienne Médina lage churches. grassy lawn,reminiscent of Europeanvil- byamosqueand stripofepitomised Moroccan architecture withFrench ideals, exodus inthe1920s.As such, itblends toaccommodatestandards the first rural experiment: amedinabuiltto Western by theFrench inthe1930sitwasaunique neat rowsof streets Built andshop stalls. ney version of atraditionalmedina,with almostDis- is Morocco-lite –anidealised, The QuartierHabous, ornouvelle medina, Medina) Habous(Nouvelle Quartier spheric andgoodforbargains. the covered Maarif market are more atmo- boutiques onthesidestreets andaround luxury hotel spaces.Smaller andoffice area –wasabouttoopenashopping mall, ofmarking thehigh-end thechic shopping However sanitised itmay feel, ifyouhave sanitised However On thenorthsideof themedina,facing Enter themedinafromnortheastcor- Jemaa ash-Chleuh ash-Chleuh Jemaa sqala clock tower (Map p102 ), thebastionoffers (Map p110 ). Thenarrow (Map p110 ) alongRue Twin Center lonelyplanet.com

Mp p102; (Map medina ) –

ATLANTIC COAST 105 (tilework) (tilework) zellij The mosque of Tin Mal in the High Atlas Mal Tin The mosque of Above all, the vast size and elaborate and elaborate all, the vast size Above than half a billion cost more The project CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Sights •• Sights AL-BAÏDA) (DAR CASABLANCA (see p336 ) and Hassan II Mosque are the II Mosque are and Hassan ) p336 (see only two mosques open to non-Muslims To see you must the interior in Morocco. decoration of the prayer hall is most strik- the prayer of decoration Notre enoughing. Large to house Paris’ in it is blanketed Dame or Rome’s St Peter’s, astonishing woodcarving, by public largely and was paid for dollars proud subscription. Most Casablancais are this vast but some feel their monument, of is been spent. There better sum might have who is going to pay for over also a dispute the mosque, as the exterior of the upkeep under showing serious distress is already weather conditions so close to the extreme the ocean. accommodating 25,000 worshippers inside, inside, worshippers 25,000 accommodating and in the courtyards further 80,000 and a it. Believers around pray- can enjoy squares floor, seeing heated ing on a centrally the the the rocks underneath Atlantic washing the sunlight feel glass floor and through the roof. retractable 6000 over of A team and stucco moulding. was assembledmastercraftsmen to work on carvingthe mosque, delicately pat- intricate from the Middle and designs in cedar terns from and granite Atlas, marble from Agadir Tafraoute. (courts &

8am-noon & 2-6pm 8am-noon & 2-6pm h

(closed is to the public) Mahakma du Pasha (Map p102 ) rises above the ) rises above p102 (Map mosque Royal Palace , which has more than 60 rooms than 60 rooms has more , which In 2007, 24 Islamists were arrested for plotting another wave of bombings after their leader their leader of bombings after for plotting another wave arrested In 2007, 24 Islamists were condemn the killings, openly Most Casablancais claim their city is the most tolerant and the conditions, and the government up to improve set the bombings, many charities were After

blew himself up at an internet café. Many came from the same slums. blew himself up at an internet in shanty population lives a third – of the city’s in the country. But a quarter – perhaps even made of cardboard and plastic, harsh: makeshift houses are living conditions are towns, where Many or electricity, no hope. no schools, no work and sewage system is no running water, there to lose. nothing they have feel youngsters Housing Ministry The has a plan to abolish all slums problems. of the aware has become more to moved been destroyed, with residents already have slums by 2012 and several in Casablanca complain under construction, but slum residents are of thousands of houses Tens new housing. has been a There families. and too small for extended that the new housing is too expensive the addresses it’s not enough, and unless the government but many feel serious improvement, It is hoped this will happen in conditions. will be no improvement underlying problems there into support for violent alternatives. anger and frustration boil over before THE SHANTY TOWNS TOWNS THE SHANTY killing up at public places in Casablanca, In May 2003, 13 suicide bombers blew themselves Islamic group whose belonged to Salafia Jihadia, a radical They and 32 other people. themselves all young Moroccan men living in bombers were The founding members trained in Afghanistan. an hour from the city centre. worst slums, less than half Casablanca’s

Designed by French architect Michel Pin- Michel architect Designed by French

The Quartier Habous is located about about is located Habous The Quartier The reception hall; admission free; free; hall; admission reception Mon-Sat)

The late King Hassan II wanted to make his to make wanted II Hassan King The late Casablancamark, and give the landmark missed. This most ambitious it so sorely to com- in 1980 started building project birthday and was the king’s 60th memorate in 1993, although work contin- completed boulevards the and area ues on reshaping the grand part of around the mosque, also plan. seau the from ocean on a rocky outcrop reclaimed from the Quran the sea, the verse echoing that states that God’s throne was built upon the tall- The 210m-high minaret, the water. est building in the country, is topped by a spectacular laser beam that shines towards mosque, is the world’s third-largest It Mecca. Hassan II Mosque Hassan II Mosque lonelyplanet.com decorated with sculpted wooden ceilings, wooden ceilings, sculpted with decorated wrought-ironstuccowork, and railings floors. earthenware bus 81 from town. Take 1km southeast of from the main post across Blvd de Paris, office. to the north of the district, while to the the while to the district, north of to the old south is the ATLANTIC COAST Tahiti a pool,restaurant andbar. pening front, westof thecentre, ishometothehap- suburbontheAtlantic This affluent beach- Aïn Diab (off Map p102 ; only gardens, thisisCasablanca’s ina Set beautiful villa surrounded bylush Museum Jewish take a 106 Quartier Oasis;admissionDh20,withguideDh30; Quartier 6pm Mon-Fri) the citycentre. of ride(Dh20)from a15-minute Oasis, taxi photographs. isinthesuburb Themuseum ceremonial items and avastcollectionof including documents,traditionalclothing, with more than1500historicalartefacts its influenceonmodernMoroccansociety, the once-thrivingJewish communityand the Islamicworld.Itrelates thehistoryof dent Dh120/30/60; (Dh4). 15 leaves fromPlaceOuedal-Makhazine centre (aroundDh10onthemeter). Bus women. Take fromthetown apetittaxi here. forlone notadvisable It’scertainly there have somereports been of muggings theretraffic, are hardlyanypedestrians,and isbusywith tion, butBlvdMoulayYoussef Porttrainsta- about 20minutes fromCasa tions roomsandhammam. Spanish, andtake intheprayerhall,ablu- conducted inFrench, and English,German remove Hour-long theirshoes. tours are dressed’ and,onceinside,willbeasked to Visitors mustbe‘decentlyandrespectfully better ones, to visitoneof thebeach clubs . Two of the is The easiestwayto findspaceinthesand less, thebeach remains extremely popular. filled withconstructionrubbish. Neverthe- grounds andconcrete swimmingpools the viewisspoiledbyabandoned pleasure pavement. thebusybeach Inbetween clubs, walkers andjoggers isreally apotholed andbeseen. to see and hub and clubs,itisthecity’sentertainment clubs, upmarket hotels, restaurants, bars It ispossibletowalkthemosquein However, thepromenadepackedHowever, with CASABLANCA(DARAL-BAÏDA) ••Activities the

(per dayDh80-150) guided tour placeforyoung,chic professionals Blvd delaCorniche and x Miami Plage Miami 022 994940;81RueChasseurJulesGros, h

the onlyJewish in museum 9am, 10am,11am&2pmSat-Thu) ( x have beach umbrellas, 022 222563;adult/child/stu- (per dayDh80-150) . Linedwithbeach h museum 10am- and . by amodernist clocktower. the south sideof the square and istopped around Dh25(Dh60atnight). al-Makhazine. fromthecentre Ataxi costs Dh60; Dh50,Sat&Sun Jaures; Mon-Fri 145926; 25RueJean treatment headforthetrendy massageoranayurvedic bath, aBalinese Dh20 anda30-minute massageDh100. modern Its offRueVerdin. aswellaJacuzziand massage, andgym. tional steam roomand an upmarket hammamoffering thetradi- headquarters), datingfrom 1930, and Henri Prost. The buildings, mostdesigned byRobert Marrast pressive arrayof augustadministrative The vastsquare issurroundedbyanim- piece of theFrench regeneration scheme. Mohammed V,which isthegrandcentre- for specialevents. restored. Therundowninterior isonlyopen theatre and culturalcentre, andisduetobe asaschool, used non in1930.Ithasbeen graceful cathedraldesignedbyPaul Tor- the imposing de laLigueArabe, where youcan’tmiss treasures.and someotherCasa tour takes inthebestMauresque buildings, remain shamefully neglected. This walking gems have restored, beautifully been others balconies.Some tilework andwrought-iron friezes,ornate tive such ascarved details art-deco movement, itembraceddecora- ular inthe1930s.Heavily influencedbythe design andtraditionalMoroccanstyle,pop- architecture –ablendof French-colonial heritage, particularlywithitsMauresque Central hasarich architecturalCasablanca WALKING TOUR Maarif; (off Map p102 ; Hammam Ziani Sparkling Hammams clean anddecidedlymodern, ACTIVITIES Rakrak; Mon-Fri Dh40,Sat&SunDh50; Mon-Fri Rakrak; Bus 9 goes toAïnDiab fromPlaceOued Bus 9goes For atraditionalhammam,Japanese You’ll findsimilarfacilitiesattheultra- From here, walktwoblockseasttoPlace onthenorthwestedgeStart of theParc h

h 7am-10pm) 10am-8pm). Gauthier BainTurc Gauthier x

Mp p110; (Map Cathédrale duSacréCoeur (1) Cathédrale 022 996608; 18 Rue Ibrahim En-Nakhai, En-Nakhai, 022 996608;18RueIbrahim ,

where ascrubcosts about x wilaya 022 319695;59RueAbou gommage

Mp p102; (Map lonelyplanet.com h ( 2 Spa 5Mondes ; oldpolice

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with some wonderful touches. Continue Continue with some wonderful touches. Houmane south to the junction with Ave and turn right to reach el-Fetouaki Novembre art-deco buildings. Finally, continue to the south along pedestrianised Abdellah (15) door- facades with decorative interesting ways and ironwork. COURSES language multitude of Casablanca has a French have which almost all of schools, courses. run semester-long ), only including the Institut Français classes. Many, p103 ( lessons: Some options for short-term from 1922 and has been beautifully restored. from 1922 and has been beautifully restored. another restored Just around the corner, the gem, el-Qory to find the Rue Mohammed most impressive. most impressive. Rialto tinue to the corner of Blvd Mohammed V. V. Blvd Mohammed tinue to the corner of the shell of On your right is the derelict Hôtel Lincoln (10) facades wonderful look out for an array of The Cen- the street. along the south side of tral Market built in 1916 and patiently awaiting a long- restoration. talked-about carved motifs, and the building, Rue Indriss Lahrizi Indriss Rue 3 Ave Houmane Ave CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Courses Courses •• AL-BAÏDA) (DAR CASABLANCA

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v B , easily recognised by the huge by the huge , easily recognised A 45 minutes 3km START 1 Parc de la Ligue Arabe, Blvd Rachidi Parc Rue Prince Moulay Abdellah ; p109 ) with its art-deco panelling, ) with its art-deco panelling, p109 ; 7 ( Hotel Transatlantique End Distance Duration WALK FACTS WALK FACTS Start Place Oued Stroll across the grand square and ad- Stroll across the grand square From here, walk east on Rue Indriss Rue Indriss walk east on From here, Turn left into Rue Chaouia and look out The nearby al-Makhazine WALKING TOUR WALKING was built in 1925. The huge main door and was built in 1925. The huge by the Persian inspired entrance were a mosque. of college) the 1918 mire and stone by arches ful building fronted with bold mosaics. columns and decorated traditional Moroccan in the style of More is the architecture a vaulted hall that usually opens into the a vaulted the central court of with decorative Fronted on Blvd de Paris. stonework, it was the last building con- on the square. structed facades line both Lahrizi, impressive where the best being the street, sides of Salon de Thé (6) Turn right into stone crown on the roofline. BelloulRue Mohammed to see mer then walk one block east and turn right Sebti, is lined with which down Rue Tahar colonial buildings. for Walking Tour lonelyplanet.com 108 CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Casablanca for Children Book your stay at lonelyplanet.comlonelyplanet.com/hotels

Centre International d’Étude de Langues (CIEL; Map p110 ; x022 441959; [email protected]; 4th fl, 8 Blvd GRAND DESIGNS Khouribga, Place de la Victoire) Runs courses in a host of For information on Casablanca’s archi- languages including classical Arabic. tectural heritage look out for Casablanca: École Assimil-Formation (Map p110 ; x022 312567; Colonial Myths and Architectural Ventures ATLANTIC COAST ATLANTIC 71 Rue Allah ben Abdellah) Offers private tuition in Arabic. by Jean-Louis Cohen and Monique Eleb, or for francophones, Casablanca – Portrait CASABLANCA FOR CHILDREN d’une ville by JM Zurfluh. Casablanca is a big, grimy city and your best bet when travelling with children is to retreat from the noise and traffic of the city Budget centre. The beaches and beach clubs in Aïn Casablanca’s budget hotels are pretty basic. Diab ( p106 ) are the places to go. Along with The medina hotels are invariably grotty swimming pools, slides and playgrounds, and overpriced and don’t offer good value they have various sports courts and count- compared with their ville-nouvelle coun- less facilities. Staying at a hotel along the terparts. Blvd de la Corniche means you’ll probably Youth Hostel (Map p110 ; x022 220551; frmaj1@ have your own swimming pool and won’t menara.com; 6 Place Ahmed el-Bidaoui; dm/d/tr incl break- have too far to walk for entertainment. fast Dh45/120/180; h8-10am & noon-11pm; i) Clus- Back in town, Casa’s biggest open space is tered around a bright central lounge area, the Parc de la Ligue Arabe. It’s a good place for the rooms are basic but well kept and quiet, games and walks, and has a choice of small with high ceilings and a lingering smell of cafés and the Yasmina amusement park (Map p102 ; damp in winter. There are good hot show- admission Dh150; h10am-7pm), with plenty of ers in the morning and a small kitchen for small-scale rides and fun-fair atmosphere. guests use. No IYHF or YHA cards are re- quired. Sheet hire is Dh5. TOURS Hôtel du Palais (Map p110 ; x022 276191; 68 Rue Both tourist offices (p103 ) offer a three- Farhat Hachad; s/d Dh80/120, with bathroom Dh140/240) hour walking tour of the city (Dh450 for At the lower end of the price range, this up to three people) that can be custom- basic hotel is a good choice, offering clean, ised to suit the client’s interests. Olive Branch spacious rooms with large windows. Al- Tours (Map p110 ; x022 220354; www.olivebranchtours though recently upgraded, it’s still fairly .com; 35 Rue el-Oraïbi Jilali) offers a ‘Grand Tour spartan and can be noisy. A hot shower of Casablanca’, which takes in the main costs Dh10. squares in the city centre, the medina and Hotel de Foucauld (Map p110 ; x022 222666; Quartier Habous, as well as a stroll along 52 Rue el-Oraïbi Jilai; s/d Dh80/130, s/d/tr with bathroom the Corniche. Dh130/160/190) Rooms in this simple hotel in the centre of town don’t live up to the FESTIVALS plasterwork decoration in reception, but The L’Boulevard Festival of Casablanca (www they’re much bigger than average and have .boulevard.ma) takes places every year in June. a certain faded charm. Some rooms have It’s a three-day urban-music festival with en-suite bathrooms. Streetside rooms can hip-hop, electro, rock, metal and fusion be noisy. music, with bands from Morocco, France, Hôtel Mon Rêve (Map p110 ; x022 411439; 7 Rue the USA and the UK. Chaouia; s/d Dh100/130, with bathroom Dh150/180) This charming old-style hotel has been a favour- SLEEPING ite with budget travellers for years. It is Most of Casablanca’s hotels are in the centrally located (off Rue Colbert) but can centre of town with the exception of the be quite noisy, and the rooms painted in youth hostel, which is in the medina, and blue are spartan but clean. Choose a higher the upmarket hotels along the Blvd de la room to avoid the noise. Corniche. Hotels fill up fast during the Hôtel Oued-Dahab (Map p110 ; x022 223866; summer months, particularly in August, [email protected]; 17 Rue Mohamed Bel- so it’s a good idea to make reservations loul; s/d bathroom Dh120/180, s/d/tr with bathroom in advance. Dh150/250/295) Run by the same family as Booklonelyplanet.com your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Sleeping 109 ATLANTIC COAST

the Guynemer, this hotel with spacious wood and equipped with good mattresses, rooms is cheap and clean and offers rooms satellite TV and direct phone line. There’s with shower or bathroom. Rooms facing a swish café downstairs on the pedestrian inwards are quieter but a bit darker. Very street, and the hotel is in a good central good value. location. Hôtel Galia (Map p110 ; x022 481694; galia_19@ Hôtel Maamoura (Map p110 ; x022 452967; www hotmail.fr; 19 Rue Ibn Batouta; s/d/tr Dh150/220/300, with .hotelmaamoura.com; 59 Rue Ibn Batouta; s/d Dh420/550, ste shower Dh170/250/330; i) Tiled floors, gold tas- Dh650-750; asi) This newly opened mod- selled curtains and matching bedspreads ern hotel offers excellent value for money. adorn the homy, spacious and well-kept The spotless and spacious rooms may lack rooms at the Galia, a top-notch budget op- period detail, but they are very quiet for tion offering excellent value. Management this central location, tastefully decorated in is friendly and helpful, and it’s in a conven- muted colours and have neat bathrooms. ient location, although the bar underneath There is a Moroccan and international res- can be quite rowdy at times. There’s free taurant, and friendly, helpful staff. internet in the lobby. Hôtel Astrid (Map p110 ; x022 277803; hotelastrid@ Midrange hotmail.com; 12 Rue 6 Novembre; s/d/tr Dh256/309/405) Casablanca has a good selection of mid- Tucked away on a quiet street south of the range accommodation scattered around the centre, the Astrid offers the most elusive city centre. You’ll also find some nice alter- element of Casa’s budget hotels – a good natives with ocean views and easy access to night’s sleep. There’s little traffic noise here the beach along Blvd de la Corniche. and the spacious, well-kept rooms are all en Hôtel Transatlantique (Map p110 ; x022 suite, with TV, telephone and frilly decor. 294551; www.transatcasa.com; 79 Rue Chaouia; s/d/tr There’s a friendly café downstairs. Dh600/750/950; ai) Set in one of Casa’s oHôtel Guynemer (Map p110 ; x022 art-deco gems, this 1922 hotel, shaped like 275764; www.guynemerhotel.com; 2 Rue Mohammed Bel- a boat, has buckets of neo-Moorish char- loul; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh398/538/676; aiwi-fi) acter. The grand scale, decorative plaster, The friendly and super-efficient family-run spidery wrought iron and eclectic mix of Guynemer, in a gorgeous art-deco building, knick-knacks, pictures and lamps give the just goes from strength to strength. The 29 Transatlantique a whiff of colonial-era well-appointed and regularly updated rooms decadence crossed with ’70s retro. It has are tastefully decked out in cheerful colours. a lovely outdoor seating area and comfort- Fresh flowers, plasma TVs, wi-fi access and able, but fairly plain, bedrooms. Avoid the firm, comfortable beds make them a steal at 1st floor, as it gets the brunt of noise from these rates and the service is way above aver- the popular and very rowdy piano bar and age: staff will happily run out to get anything nightclub. There are several newly deco- you need. There’s an airport pick-up service rated suites. Edith Piaf lived in rooms 303, (Dh200) and city tours. The small restaurant 304 and 315. serves a range of top-notch Moroccan spe- Dar Itrit (off Map p102 ; x022 360258; www.daritrit cialities and has live oud (lute) music every .ma; 9 Rue de Restinga; d Dh850) There are only three night. There is also an interactive info post in double rooms in this charming B&B, each the lobby, a dedicated PC for guest use and a decorated in a different Moroccan style – phone to call the USA and Canada free. Marrakesh, Berber and Mogador. A deli- The hotel also rents out two contem- cious breakfast is served in a bright living porary, fully equipped flats on the same room or on the terrace, in this slightly out street, which are ideal for longer stays and of the centre location. for families. East-West Hotel (Map p102 ; x022 200210; www Hôtel de Paris (Map p110 ; x022 274275; fax 022 .eastwest-hotel.com; 10 Ave Hassan Souktani, Quartier 298069; cnr Rue Ech-Cherif Amziane & Rue Prince Moulay Gauthier; s/d Dh400/626; i) Several readers Abdallah; s/d/tr Dh400/450/450) Flowered carpet have recommended this bright and cheer- and flashy textiles in the corridors reveal ful three-star hotel. All rooms have clean dubious taste, but the renovated, spacious bathrooms with modern fittings, free inter- rooms at this small hotel are clean and rela- net and a safe, and the hotel boasts a good tively quiet. Rooms are decorated with dark restaurant and a lounge bar. The hotel, 110 CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Sleeping Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotelslonelyplanet.com

Central Casablanca 0 200 m CENTRAL CASABLANCA 0 0.1 miles

Gate 38

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e v R A Rue el-Ararir ibar u o e ini esk S Mers Sultan M t el- r Roundabout al a Rue Mustapha el- Rue Essan Rah s Ru d b i al-Fassi Blv R o Rue Rue u e u u o Hadj e r la g S L Amar Rif ib r e a r m té O 48 e fi u 11 R 19

in the residential but upcoming Quartier though, and it’s cheaper than most along Gauthier, is very quiet. this waterfront strip. There’s plenty of space Hôtel Bellerive (off Map p102 ; x022 797504; and a playground, which makes it a good www.belleriv.com; 38 Blvd de La Corniche, Aïn Diab; bet if you’re travelling with children. s/d/tr/q Dh570/720/950/1200; as) The lovely Hôtel le Littoral (off Map p102 ;x022 797373; terrace, pool and garden make up for the fax 022 797374; Blvd de l’Océan Atlantique, Aïn Diab; s/d dated, standard rooms at this small, family- Dh699/850; asi) This cavernous, well- run hotel. Many rooms have ocean views kept hotel is rather dark, with rooms that Booklonelyplanet.com your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Eating 111 ATLANTIC COAST

INFORMATION Hotel de Foucauld...... 23 B2 Café Alba...... 45 B3 BMCE...... (see 33) Hotel de Paris...... 24 B4 La Bodéga...... 46 C3 Carlson Wagonlit...... 1 B2 Hôtel du Palais...... 25 B4 Petit Poucet...... 47 C3 Central Market Post Office...... 2 C3 Hôtel Galia...... 26 C3 Crédit du Maroc...... 3 B3 Hôtel Guynemer...... 27 B3 ENTERTAINMENT EuroNet...... 4 B3 Hotel les Saisons...... 28 B2 Cinéma Lynx...... 48 B5 French Consulate...... 5 B4 Hôtel Maamoura...... 29 C3 Cinéma Rialto...... 49 B3 [email protected]...... 6 B4 Hôtel Mon Reve...... 30 C3 Complex Cultural Sidi Goethe Institut...... 7 B3 Hotel Oued-Dahab...... 31 B3 Belyout...... 50 C3 LGnet...... 8 C3 Hôtel Transatlantique...... 32 C4 Main Post Office...... 9 A3 Hyatt Regency Hotel...... 33 A2 SHOPPING Medina Post Office...... 10 B1 Youth Hostel...... 34 B1 Disques GAM...... 51 A3 Office National Marocain du Exposition Nationale Tourisme...... 11 A5 EATING d'Artisinat...... 52 B3 Syndicat d'Initiative...... 12 C3 Brasserie La Bavaroise...... 35 C3 Le Comptoire Marocain de Voyages Schwartz...... 13 B4 Epsom...... 36 B3 Distribution de Disques...... 53 C4 Voyages Wasteels...... 14 C2 La Petite Perle...... 37 B3 Wafa Cash...... 15 B3 Ostréa...... 38 C1 TRANSPORT Pâtisserie de l'Opéra...... 39 B4 Avis...... 54 C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Restaurant al-Mounia...... 40 B4 Budget...... 55 C2 Centre International d'Etude de Restaurant du Port de Bus 10 & 36 to Gare Routière Langues...... 16 D5 Peche...... 41 B1 Ouled Ziane...... 56 C3 Clock Tower...... 17 B2 Rotisseries...... 42 C3 Bus 81 to Nouvelle Medina...... 57 A3 École Assimil-Formation...... 18 C3 Snack Amine...... (see 42) CTM Bus Station...... 58 D2 Hammam Ziani...... 19 C5 Taverne du Dauphin...... 43 B2 Grands Taxi Stand...... 59 D3 Jemaa ash-Chleuh...... 20 A1 Hertz...... 60 B2 Olive Branch Tours...... 21 B3 DRINKING National...... 61 B2 Black House...... (see 33) Petits Taxis...... 62 B2 SLEEPING Caesar...... 44 C2 President Car...... 63 B3 Hôtel Astrid...... 22 B4 were once the height of fashion but now woven rugs and decorative tiling are centred look dangerously ’80s. However, there are on the hotel’s three swimming pools and large balconies and wonderful views over landscaped terrace. It has a thalassotherapy the waterfront. The hotel has several res- centre, a health club and tennis courts, and taurants, a discotheque and a private beach substantial discounts in the off-season. It’s with umbrellas. located 3km south of Casablanca. Hôtel les Saisons (Map p110 ; x022 490901; www Hôtel Hyatt Regency (Map p110 ; x022 431234; .hotellessaisonsmaroc.ma; 19 Rue el Oraïbi Jilali; s/d www.casablanca.hyatt.com; Place des Nations Unis; r Dh900/1100; ai) This small hotel offers Dh3500; pasi) The best and the most extremely comfortable, well-appointed central of all the five-star hotels, the Hyatt is and quiet rooms with all the usual facili- a favourite meeting place for Casablancais ties: a safe, minibar, satellite TV and direct for a meal in one of the many restaurants, dial phone. It’s a more personal place than or a drink at the bar. The spacious rooms the larger international hotels and offers are equipped with modern amenities and good value for money. The staff speak decorated in an elegant contemporary style, English. and have magnificent views of Casablanca, the old medina, the ocean and the Hassan Top End II Mosque. The hotel also has a discotheque Casablanca has a glut of top-end hotels, and spa. with all the major international chains rep- resented in town. Most are along Ave des EATING FAR, with a few others along the Blvd de Restaurants la Corniche. For something less generic try Casablanca has a great selection of res- one of the following: taurants, and you can eat anything from Hôtel Riad Salam (x022 391313; fax 022 391345; excellent tajine to French pâté and Thai Blvd de la Corniche; r Dh2325; as) Although not dumplings. However as elsewhere along the as swish as it once was, and with rather er- ocean, fresh fish and seafood are the local ratic service, the Riad Salam is still the top speciality and it’s worth checking out the spot along the waterfront. The Moroccan- restaurants at the port or on the way to Aïn style, nonsmoking rooms with low couches, Diab for a culinary treat. ATLANTIC COAST des Almohades;mainsDh70-160; and contemporary artwork. Theimpeccable an elegant placefilledwith periodfurniture inarenovatedeateries. Set 1930svilla, it is French Rouget top isoneof food,Le Casa’s nowned foritssimple butdeliciousandlight walks of life. is very fromall popularwithCasablancais fessional andswift.Bookaheadasthisplace ispro- white tablecloths. gingham Service town. Thedecorisvery 1970swithred-and- paellaareand tangy someof the best in andcooked toperfection.the sea Thefish diners tuckintofish freshly whipped from to thegillsatlunch anddinnerashappy the middleof thefishingharbourispacked restaurant in authentic andrusticseafood mains Dh70-90; 115 BlvdHouphouetBoigny;3-coursesetmenuDh110, mandie &BlvdAbouYalaa al-Ifrani;mainsDh55-90) brochettes. plenty of of fish,aswellaselection meat particularly good),butthemenufeatures ciality (thegoattajine withargan oilbeing forlunchsalads (Dh68).Tajines are aspe- roccan breakfast of (Dh70)oraselection and fresh juices. It’salovely spotforaMo- butthere’s of a goodselection teas served, by flower-draped trellises. Noalcohol is interior gardensurrounded andadelightful cape fromthecity.Thecaféhasarustic tion, thislovely restaurant isatranquiles- the of Le Luigi CENTRAL CASABLANCA 112 dinner Mon-Sat) Rue Rougetdel’Isle;mainsDh110-130; pizzas are worththejourney.Bookahead. time. Thedecorisnothingspecialbutthe tajine ifyou’ve inMoroccoforsome been LuigimakesLe forawelcomebreak from of restaurants, themostpopularItalian x Sun, dailyinsummer) will leave yousmitten. lamari and taste of thesucculentgrilledfish, friedca- an old-fashioned family-runplace,andone sinceitopenedin1958.Thisis (seafood) up serving and barhasbeen tution, thistraditionalProvençal restaurant Le Rougetdel’Isle o Taverne duDauphin Sqala Restaurant Sqala Restaurant 022 318561; Le Port dePêche;mainsDh80-140) 022 318561;Le Port CASABLANCA(DARAL-BAÏDA) ••Eating sqala,

(off Map (off Map p102 ; Restaurant du Port dePêche duPort Restaurant crevettes royales Sleek, stylish andcharming,Sleek, re- h an18th-centuryfortifiedbas- Mon-Sat) Nestled intheochre walls

Mp p102; (Map

x Mp p102; (Map

Mp p110; (Map 022 390271;cnrRuedeNor- A Casablanca insti- ACasablanca h x (kingprawns) x 8am-10.30pm Tue- h fruits demer 022 260960;Blvd x 022 294740;16 lunch Mon-Fri, lunch Mon-Fri, 022 221200; Mp p110; (Map This One 95 Rue Prince Moulay Abdallah; mainsDh130-170) MoulayAbdallah; 95 RuePrince dozen oystersDh74,mainsDh120-250; 311760; 129 Rue Allah ben Abdellah; mainsDh140-200) benAbdellah; 311760; 129RueAllah mato tajine. pastilla array of exoticdelicaciessuch aspigeon thy of anyvegetarian restaurant andan garden. There’s of wor- aselection salads or underthepeppertree inthecool,leafy with elegantlydecoratedthe Moroccansalon restaurant where tositin youcanchoose traditional atthisdelightful Casablanca the bestMoroccanfoodincentre of and againonthe1stfloor. drinks.Youcanwatch thefilmagain night andagoodplaceforlate- a stunningsetting souvenir T-shirts.access and,inevitably, It’s wi-fi pianist,aSundayjazzsession, house are allonthemenu.There’s alsoanin- excellent French andMoroccanspecialities and Americanbreakfasts aswellafew chops, chilli, hamburgers Lamb masses. ataste of homeforthenostalgic serving ture andfittingsinspired bythefilm,and a formerAmericandiplomat,withfurni- tiful bar,lounge andrestaurant isrunby thisbeau- the HollywoodhitCasablanca, ‘Here’s inon lookingatyoukid!’Cashing a beautifulgarden.Bookinadvance. food isreasonably andthere’s pricedthough, d’Emeraude, Anfa;mealsDh250) centre suburb of Anfa, but intheaffluent and fresh lobster. restaurant specialisinginOualidiaoysters de Pêche isthismore upmarket seafood duPort Across theroadfromRestaurant next door,agreat bar. tapas Bodega( ownerssame alsorunLa p114 ) ties fromadifferent region of France. The Every monththemenufeatures speciali- ant atmosphere andafriendlywelcome. Meat isgrilledonawoodfire. Ithasapleas- steak cooked andpheasant toperfection. of fish aswellFrench classics such asveal, It offers andbeseen. agoodselection to see partlyforthe FrenchCentral, cuisine,partly upmarket behindtheMarché brasserie Locals andexpatslike tohangoutin this Jdid; mainsDh130-160; La Brasserie laBavaroise La Brasserie Restaurant al-Mounia Restaurant Ostréa Rick’s Cafe Cafe Rick’s Thai Gardens Thai zellij (rich, to- savoury pie)andsweet Mp p110; (Map (tilework) andsculpted wood, Mp p110; (Map

( x x h 022 797579;Ave de laCôte 022 441390; Le Port dePêche; 022 441390;Le Port x noon-3.30pm, 6pm-midnight)

Mp p110; (Map 022 274207;248BlvdSour Slightly outofSlightly the

Mp p110; (Map lonelyplanet.com h x 11am-11pm) 022 222669; x Eat 022

ATLANTIC COAST

. 113 The The 11.30am- h pastillas 7am-9pm) (master chef) (master 022 303025; 2 Rue 022 272849; 17-19 h cornes de gazelle cornes x x ( One of the city’s the city’s One of Famous across the city Famous 022 798013; Blvd de la Corniche, 022 366000; www.paul.ma; cnr cnr 022 366000; www.paul.ma; (Map p110 ; x 8am-8pm)

( x maître cuisinier 022 797232; Résidence Jardin d’Anfa, 022 797232; Résidence Jardin d’Anfa, Popular with young profes- h x 7am-9pm) ( h Slick, new and popular with the Slick, new and popular with the (Map p102; La Petite Perle Hediard Patisserie Bennis Habous CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Eating •• Eating AL-BAÏDA) (DAR CASABLANCA Ave Houmane el-Fetouaki; mains Dh25-45; Houmane el-Fetouaki; Ave 3pm & 6-11pm) Blvd Lido Route Côterie, Aïn Diab; cakes Dh12-28, meals Dh45-60) young and beautiful, this café in Aïn Diab serves as well as sumptuous cakes of a range light meals and deli-style sandwiches (Dh30 to Dh50). most famous and traditional patisseries, patisseries, most famous and traditional is Casa’s Habous this place in the Quartier Moroccan treats, best spot for traditional the best including some of (gazelle horns, almond paste) pastries in pastries in (gazelle horns, almond paste) town, as well as made-to-order Aïn Diab; Quick Eats the Marché opposite Rue Chaouia, located Central a quick eat, is the best place for rotisseries, stallswith a line of and restau- rants serving and brochettes roast chicken, sandwiches (Dh20 to Dh30). It’s open until about 2am. AÏN DIAB des Glaces Palais Although seafood tops the bill here, you Although you seafood here, tops the bill delicacies, other French for some can opt by the cooked Cafés, Patisseries & Ice-cream Parlours CENTRAL CASABLANCA Paul sionals and women travelling alone, this alone, this sionals and women travelling spotless, modern café serves of up a range Fkih el-Gabbas; for its excellent ice cream, this is one of this is one of for its excellent ice cream, the city’s oldest sweet-tooth stops, serv- and sorbets for ing up delicious ice creams Set in Aïn 125 years. from the beach across on a fine a glorious retreat Diab, it makes day. French chain of bakery and patisserie has bakery of chain French art-deco in Casa,arrived in the gorgeous is a constant flow of There Villa Zevaco. the food for coming as much people here, being seen of and decor as for the pleasure hang-out. Excellent breakfast in this trendy is served, salads, is also a menu of and there delights. snacks and other Mediterranean Blvd d’Anfa & Blvd Moulay Rachid;Blvd d’Anfa & Blvd André Halbert. It’s 5km out of town. out of It’s 5km André Halbert.

lunch lunch h 022 484846; dinner daily) noon-3pm & x h h Right next door to 022 798877; 33 Blvd de la 022 798877; 33 Blvd de la (Map p102 ; Subtle lighting, warm 022 362112; Sidi Abderrahman, x This upmarket gourmet This upmarket ( with confit of duck and with confit of

x (

022 360641; Blvd de la Corniche, Phare 022 360641; Blvd de la Corniche, Phare 022 363315; Blvd de la Corniche, Phare 022 363315; Blvd de la Corniche, Phare x pastilla (

x (

Giant glass walls swathe this sleek, La Mer La Fibule La Maison du Gourmet A Ma Bretagne Le Mystic Garden Corniche; Aïn Diab; meals around Dh350; 7pm-2am) Locally promoted as the best restaurant in as the best restaurant Locally promoted Africa, this self-consciously cool establish- ment is all modern lines and superb food. Blvd de la Corniche; meals around Dh500; el-Hank; meals around Dh300) colours and an elegant decor give La and an elegant decor give colours Fibule The food is a mix- an inviting atmosphere. Moroccan and Leba- well-prepared of ture nese, served the at low tables overlooking windows. ocean through large restaurant serves the restaurant menu of an inventive and Moroccan cuisine, run French finest of she Moroccan, both by a couple, he French, Bocuse. include Specialities trained by Paul a heavenly surroundings, excel- foie gras. The elegant lent service this and exceptional food make for a special occasion. address the perfect Book ahead. The best of this neighbourhood’s restau- this neighbourhood’s The best of a cliff on together top clustered rants are the crashing Atlantic waves overlooking Lighthouse. near the el-Hank AÏN DIAB AÏN DIAB worth seeking out for its excellent Thai seekingworth Thai excellent out for its top-notch is another this place cuisine, Thai classics is vast menu of option. The a good and makes inventive refreshingly for vegetarians. choice lonelyplanet.com two-storey restaurant-cum-bar in light. in light. restaurant-cum-bar two-storey leads onto a garden; upstairs Downstairs the ocean. It’s an ultra-cool hang- overlooks out for Casa’s well-heeled youth but the worth sam- menu is well Mediterranean pling. Dinner is accompanied by low-key sounds that morph into a full-on disco beat in the evening, and for once on this later strip the beer isn’t astronomically priced. La Fibule, and under the same manage- re- ment, this seafood a more is restaurant and bone china linen fined place with white The menu and the ethnic vibe. replacing service bordering on stuffy, French, is very but the food is divine. el-Hank; meals around Dh300) Rue Taha Houcine, Maarif; meals Dh400-500; Rue Taha Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) ATLANTIC COAST des Almohades;mainsDh60-80; up-and-coming. sa’s women andagreat placeforwatching Ca- around town.It’shassle-free downtimefor from themore traditionalsmokyjoints elegant colonialtimesmarkthiscaféout ern furniture, andahintof subtlelighting offers hassle-free eatingforwomen. a relaxed placewithamixed clientele and grills andbrochettes atbargain prices.It’s achoice of thisfriendlycaféserves seating, and spillingcustomers ontothestreetside the freshest seafood. of friedfish, simplebuttasty upbigplates SnackAmineserves Central, thechickentween bytheMarché rotisseries Mouftakar; mainsDh22-60) Mouftakar; women. more refined placestodrink, especiallyfor general, thebars inthelarger hotels are male-only clientele (plus prostitutes). In around theedges andgenerally attracta barsCasablanca’s canbepretty rough Bars Lahrizi; Alba Café Cafés are usually intimidatingforwomen. they are pretty and much amalepreserve style drinkingdensinthecentre of town, thereAlthough are plentyof classicFrench- DRINKING p110) head forthe If you’re planningapicniconthebeach, Self-Catering well asagreat choice of breakfasts. andpizzasas crêpes,pastas sandwiches, 114 Chaouia; mainsDh25-45; coffee ordeliciousjuices. all afternoon andmakes agreat placefor dina wall.Theflower-filled gardenisquiet lovely behind the caféisset other exceptiontothemen-onlyrule,this good delis. ofselection fresh produceandacoupleof nating placetojuststrollandhasagreat and RueAllahbenAbdellah. It’safasci- Sqala Café Maure Sqala Café Snack Amine Epsom CASABLANCA(DARAL-BAÏDA) ••Drinking , located between BlvdMohammed, located V between h

8am-1am) Mp p110; (Map Mp p110; (Map Marché Central Central Marché

Mp p110; (Map High ceilings,swish,mod- High

x Mp p102; (Map x h Almost alwayscrowded 022 227154; 59-61 Rue Indriss 022 227154;59-61RueIndriss 022 220746;cnrRueTata & noon-10pm) x h x sqala (Central Market; Map Map (Central Market;

and platters of 022 541331;Rue 11am-1am) 022 260960;Blvd Tucked be- intheme-

An- ben Abdellah; ben Abdellah; 100 Ave desFAR) things are alotcalmeratlunch. of and beer stirrednight, bythetechno beatandaflow rocco. Theatmosphere ishotandtrendy at is theplacetofeel thebeatof thenewMo- withbrickwallsand1960sfurniture,levels hotels, including tions are clubsatthelarge international few placeswithfunky live music. lunch &Sun) Gauthier; Moutanabi, Quartier Regency, PlacedesNationsUnies) Regency, packed dancefloorafter 10pm. fun placewithalively atmosphere anda the Rioja (Spanishwine)flowsfreely. It’sa toArabic pop)isloudand thing fromSalsa barwheretially atapas themusic(every- Bodegaisessen- of finest,La Casablanca’s happening andloved byamixed-aged group style bar-cum-restaurants such as front ranges fromFellini-esque, cabaret– don’t lookthepart,youwon’tget in. crowdcontrol–ifyou tough and practise drinks. Heavy-set bouncers guardthedoors least Dh100toget inandasmuch againfor comecheap. topayat town doesn’t Expect onthe blanca’s beautifulpeopleforanight hangingoutwithCasa- However, in Casa. drinkinganddancing place forlate-night The beachfront suburbof AïnDiabisthe Nightclubs ENTERTAINMENT strong Legend atmosphere, andtheincredibly packed (11 BlvddelaCorniche) (33 BlvddelaCorniche) the catch-all authentic slice of old-time Casa life.authentic sliceof old-timeCasa Sahara. Today,thebarislow-key butisan acrossthe mailflights to spendtimebetween theFrenchExupéry, authorandaviator, used strictly male-onlybarwaswhere Saint- 10pm) sle-free drinking anywhere. night- Theseedy for drinks andwomenshouldn’t expecthas- of theclubs, men are always expected topay sensation Other thanAïnDiab,theonlyreal op- La Bodéga Petit Poucet The stripof discojointsalongthebeach- Le Trica Le Trica Adie-hardrelic of 1920sFrance,this Candy Bar Candy This bar-lounge, over set two Mp p102; (Map

and h Mp p110; (Map

(41 BlvddelaCorniche) Mp p110; (Map VIP club mojitos 12.30-3pm &7pm-midnight) Black House tothepastel-coloured pop has a slightly gay-friendly hasaslightly Caesar (55 BlvddelaCorniche) x (Rue desDunes). x (rum cocktails), but(rum cocktails), Blvd MohammedV;

. Prostitutes workall (Map p110 ; Hôtel Sheraton, Sheraton, Hôtel p110; (Map h 022 541842; 129 Rue Allah 022 541842;129RueAllah 022 220706;5Rueel-

noon-1am, closedSat (Map p110 ; Hôtel Hyatt Hyatt Hôtel p110; (Map lonelyplanet.com is oneof the

Le Village Balcon 33 h Hip, and Arm- 9am-

ATLANTIC COAST

022 (per

115 x is close (Map p110 ;

left-luggage counter . There are daily CTM daily CTM are . There Gare Routière Ouled Ziane ost Duration No of daily CTM bus station , 4km southeast of the centre, the centre, , 4km southeast of 6am-11.30pm) h 022 444470) The modern Internally, the vast majority of Royal Air Royal of majority the vast Internally, hourly with companies (6.30am-7pm) hourly private x 541010; www.ctm.ma; 23 Rue Léon L’Africain) is the bus station for almost all non-CTM services. out here to trek The main reason by CTM, is for destinations not covered ( 24hr Dh5; buses to Ouarza- also overnight are There and Er-Rachidia (Dh140, 7½ hours) zate as well as via Tinerhir, (Dh155, 14 hours) one or two buses daily to Oujda (Dh180, Al-Hoceima (Dh160, 11 hours), 11 hours), Taroudannt Nador (Dh170, 13 hours), and Dakhla(Dh165, 10 hours) (Dh520, 28 international also operates CTM hours). buses to Belgium, France, Germany, Italy ). p483 and Spain from Casablanca (see Maroc’s (RAM) flights go via Casablanca, Maroc’s in Mo- to any destination get so you can Air from the city. Regional rocco directly a dozen Moroccan desti- Lines flies to over the coast. nations, mostly south along 9 10 190 Agadir El-Jadida Essaouira 10 40 5 1½ 130 100 Fez 24 7 Laâyoune 340 3 every 15 min 3½ Marrakesh 80 4 10 10 Meknès 80 2 with CTM; Rabat Tangier 5 7½ 30 135 7 130 Taza 3 1¼ 130 Tetouan 6 every 30 min 5 with CTM; with regularly companies private lar flights leave here for most countries in most countries for here lar flights leave Africa, as to West as well Europe, Western East the Middle Egypt, Tunisia, and Algeria, airlines with For a list of North America. . p480 Casablancaflights see and out of in Bus The modern to the Ave des FAR. It’s a pretty efficient It’s a pretty des FAR. to the Ave place with a café and (Dh) (hrs) services (hrs) to the following places: departures Destination C (Dh) CASABLANCA (DAR AL-BAÏDA) •• Shopping •• Shopping AL-BAÏDA) (DAR CASABLANCA

Le Le A ‘ver- hree hree t 8.30am- or . (Map p110 ; A good h

is good foris good This 200- ) 022 262632; Rue 022 262632; Rue (Map ;p110 28 Rue

022 220229; 150 Ave 022 220229; 150 Ave ( p109 x

is 30km southeast x as the belly dancers belly dancers as the Disques GAM where you’ll find where (Map p110 ; 022 798888; www.megarama.info, 022 798888; www.megarama.info, performances 9pm)

(Map ; p110 Exposition Nationale d’Artisanat .

x Mohammed V International Airport h ( 022 267064; 3 Ave Hassan II; 022 267064; 3 Ave 022 369153; 26 Ave Lalla Yacout) 022 369153; 26 Ave couleur locale couleur x x Hotel Transatlantique The plushest cinema in town, this The plushest cinema in

022 539040; www.onda.ma) 022 268954; 99 Rue Abderrahman Sehraoui) For a good selection of traditional Arab traditional Arab For a good selection of If you’d rather avoid haggling If you’d rather avoid altogether, Megarama Cinéma Rialto Cinéma Rialto Cinéma Lynx

x x Léon L’Africain; Mers Dh25/30/50) Sultan; screen/balcony/club classic, cavernous, single-screen art-deco art-deco single-screen classic, cavernous, cinema. in French; Blvd de la Corniche; afternoon/eveningin French; shows Dh35/45) floors of fixed-price crafts. fixed-price of floors and Berber try music Casablanca’s ( (Map ; p110 GETTING & AWAY THERE Air 12.30pm & 2.30-8pm), (Map p110 ; head for the Although not an artisan centre, Casablancanot an artisan centre, Although traditional crafts from of has a good choice The most pleasant place around Morocco. ), south of p104 ( to shop is Quartier Habous laid- pretty are here Merchants the centre. crafts can vary and back, but the quality of the day. is the order of hard bargaining SHOPPING sion originale’sion

Most English-language films are dubbed in are films Most English-language unless it specifically mentions French, Cinema

Complex Culturel Sidi Belyout Theatres club at club at lonelyplanet.com option if you don’t want to trek out to Aïn option if you don’t want to trek Diab, this spacious and comfortable cinema has an excellent sound system. seat theatre hosts plays (usually in Arabic) in Arabic) hosts plays (usually seattheatre or dance recital and the occasional music performance. huge complex in Aïn Diab has four com- has complex in Aïn Diab huge usually packed. that are fortable theatres Mohammed el-Kouri; Dh25/30/50) screen/balcony/club Comptoire Marocain de Distribution de Disques late night late the mostly male locals provoke and singers money at them. into throwing of the city on the Marrakesh road. Regu- the city on the Marrakesh of ATLANTIC COAST ( Habous, Ave desFAR); Jilali); 539716) el-Oraïbi Jilali); interest totravellers. has five but onlytwoare trainstations, of generally thebestway totravel. Casablanca If yourdestination isonatrainline,it’s Train train ismore convenient andcomfortable. the hir, neartheCTM However, busstation. (Dh55 toDh65)leave fromBlvd Hassan Seg- (Dh35)andtoFez toRabat Grands taxis Taxi car; itiscommonpracticetopayDh5. guard willaskforatipwatching your Tata (costsDh5perhour).Anywhere a else of Dh20)andanotherjustoff day/night Rue car parknexttotheBritishcemetery (per pay, youmaybefined.There isaguarded Sunday andpublicholidays.Ifyoudon’t noon, and2pmto7pmdaily,excepton hours maximum),operatingfrom8amto hasparking metersCasablanca (Dh5,two Car President National Hertz Budget Avis FAR, BlvdMohammed Vandattheairport. agencies, aroundAve manywithoffices des iswellendowedwithcar-rentalCasablanca Car tion totown,isthe than 1kmcloser Mohammed Vnearthemarket. natively take busNo10or36fromBlvd willcostaboutDh15,alter-the busstation Chefchaouen to (Dh70,twodaily).Ataxi mainly Ouezzane(Dh60,ninedaily)and 116 FAR); CTM, butfares are cheaper. slightly ofinternational to buses asimilarstandard Marrakesh ifrequested. It’soffBlvdMohammedV.Marrakesh or their utmosttohelp,andcandeliveracartheairport the localexpatcommunity.TheBouayadbrotherswilldo very competitiverates,andcomesmuchrecommended by able localagencythathasawell-maintainedfleetofcars, [email protected]; 27Rueel-GhaliAhmed)Areli- x Also onRoute OuledZiane,butmore

CASABLANCA(DARAL-BAÏDA) Around ••Getting 022 339157) Casablanca Mohammed V International Airport Mohammed VInternational Airport Mohammed V International Airport Mohammed VInternational Airport (

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Casablanca

Casablanca 022 444470) Mohammed V International Airport Mohammed VInternational Airport (Ma p110; (Ma (Ma p110; (Ma (Ma p110; (Ma (Ma p110; (Ma (Ma p110; (Ma Mohammed V International Airport Mohammed VInternational Airport . SAT runsnationaland x x x x 022 312424;19Ave des 022 484710; 25 Rue el-Oraïbi 022 484710;25Rueel-Oraïbi 022 260790,061210394; x 022 313124;Toursdes 022 277141;12Rue ( x ( x 022 539181) 022 539181) 022 539072) SAT bussta- ( x 022 from Mohammed VInternational Airportdepart bring clientstoparticularhotels. driverstaxi receive commissionsifthey asked forDh350atunsocialhours. Some city centre youmaybe costsDh300,though Casa-Port. to 10pm.Afew additionaltrainsgofrom hourfrom5am the airport,trainsgoevery airport-terminal building. leave frombelowthegroundfloorof the at Casa-Voyageurs Thetrains orAïnSebaa. you’llprobablyhavethough achange of train (Dh60)orKenitracontinue toRabat (Dh75), hour from6.45amto10.45pm.Youcanalso are andreliable, comfortable andleave every train (2ndclassDh35,35minutes). Thetrains isby International AirporttoCasablanca The easiest waytoget fromMohammed V To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING pany RATP. Thefollowingroutes are useful, be overhauled byFrench transport com- research, the citybussystem wasaboutto stop atdesignated busstops. Atthetimeof generally much easier. costDh4and Buses and onavery limited budget is apetit taxi very crowded;unlessyou’re travelling alone The localbussystem isunderfundedand Bus 271837) Benguérir. (Dh75.50, five hours, twodaily)change at (Dh30, 1½hours, five daily).ForSafi (Dh118, 5¾hours, twodaily)andEl-Jadida via Taza hours), Tangier (Dh134,seven hours), Oujda(Dh202,10hours, twodaily) hours, ninedaily)viaMeknès (Dh86,3½ three hours, ninedaily),Fez (Dh103,4½ to get there. andpayabout Dh10 med V,orhopinataxi (Dh3.50), which runsalongBlvdMoham- 4km eastof thecitycentre. bus30 Catch minutes). and Kenitra (Dh44,1½hours, 30 every 30minutes) (Dh32,onehour,every Rabat convenient, trainsfromhere onlyrunto morePlace desNationsUnies.Although All long-distance trains as well as trains to trainsaswellto All long-distance A grand taxi between theairportand between A grandtaxi From Casa-Voyageurs to trainstation The Destinations includeMarrakesh (Dh84, Casa-Voyageurs trainstation Casa-Voyageurs isafew hundred metres northeastof Casa-Port trainstation Casa-Port

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( x 022 243818) x 022 , ATLANTIC COAST 117 a fortress-monastery a fortress-monastery rebuilt as a kasbah, a as a kasbah, rebuilt ribat ribat, NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF Al-Mansour’s death in 1199 brought death an Al-Mansour’s The mega project of Amwaj – started in Amwaj of The mega project 12th in the the Almohads The arrival of Rabat there a good place to eat; is also end to these grandiose schemes, leaving end to these grandiose leaving schemes, The Mosque incomplete. Hassan the great city soon lost all significance and it wasn’t until the 17th century that Rabat’s fortunes began to change. 2006 and due for completion by 2010 – by 2010 – 2006 and due for completion Rabatof aims to link the cities and Salé by on both sides of developing the waterfront new apartments, of- Thousands of the river. and landscaped parks fices, shops, theatres, a new tram- being built, as well as are areas way and several bridges. century saw the for campaigns point jumping-off strategic the dynasty successfully in Spain, where brought Andalusia back under Muslim rule. (the Victorious), al-Mansour Yacoub Under Rabatheyday as an imperial enjoyed a brief Al- (Victory Fortress). capital, Ribat al-Fatah walls built, added the had extensive Mansour enormous Bab Oudaïa to the kasbah and Mosque, intended began work on the Hassan the Islamic mosque in all of to be the greatest the Islamic world. West, if not in all of are plenty of wonderful restaurants around around restaurants wonderful plenty of are it is in Casa- is not what town. The nightlife along stroll an early afternoon blanca, but happening suburb the of the main avenues their flaunt local hipsters where Agdal, of enough. is entertaining skinny jeans, And beaches are you down, there gets if city life to. further north to escape History Rabat drew plains inland from The fertile as far back as the 8th settlers to the area century BC. Both the Phoenicians and the set up trading posts in the estu- Romans in Sala, river Oued Bou Regreg the ary of today’s Chellah. The Roman settlement, the empire’s long after Sala Colonia, lasted fall and eventually became the seat an of independent Berber kingdom. The Zenata Berbers built a its name, on the the city takes which after new the Rabat’s of kasbah. As site present in the 10th century) Salé (created town of the began to prosper on the north bank of into decline. Chellah fell the city of river, town across the Bou Regreg river, where where river, Bou Regreg across the town stood still. to have time appears ﺍﻟﺮﺑﺎﻁ Northbound from Place Oued al-Makhazine to the From Place de la Concorde, along Blvd Mohammed Concorde, along Blvd Mohammed From Place de la

Along Blvd de Paris and down Ave Lalla Yacout to Yacout Lalla down Ave and Along Blvd de Paris to Aïn Diab and the beaches. From Blvd d’Anfa Blvd Mohammed V to Casa-Voyageurs train station. V to Casa-Voyageurs train station. Blvd Mohammed The quiet medina has an authentic feel The quiet medina has an authentic feel Rabat history, and has a long and rich

pop 1.7 million pop 1.7 million Rabat, Morocco’s political and admin- While capital since independence in 1956,istrative has not established itself as a tourist destina- of who do go find a gem visitors tion, the few is stunning, a city. The colonial architecture and kept well the palm-lined boulevards are is traffic, of and the atmosphere free relatively as cosmopolitan economic big brother as its is pleasant here down the coast. All in all, life and civilised. Casablancais say that, with all a Rabat is dull, and they have the bureaucrats, pleasant laid-back, the city is more point. Yet than Casablanca, and far provincial and more less grimy and frantic. and fascinating ar- to it, some good shops on ignored be blissfully You’ll chitecture. and souqs, so it’s easy to dis- the streets monuments and hidden the city’s cover picturesque The at your own pace. corners kasbah, with its narrow alleys, art galleries and magnificent ocean views, is also worth exploring. to show for it from monuments plenty of and the Phoenician, Roman, Almohad at times times. The power shifted Merenid between Rabat and Salé, the whitewashed RABAT RABAT NORTH OF CASABLANCA NORTH OF CASABLANCA

Taxi Taxi excellent value Casa’s petits taxis are red you to your destina- get and can generally You can hail than any bus. tion far faster a petit-taxi stand or there’s one anywhere, Dh7, is The minimum fare des FAR. on Ave in or near the city but expect to pay Dh10 use without meter the Most drivers centre. out of to, just get question, but if they refuse the cab. Prices rise 8pm. after by 50% Bus 10 Bus 15 Bus 9 Bus 4 but numbers and routes may change in the in the may change routes and but numbers restructure: Bus 2 lonelyplanet.com Hassan II Mosque. V to Gare Ouled Ziane. Routière Nouvelle Medina. ATLANTIC COAST

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h Fez (200km) Bab Fès ATLANTIC COAST B2 A2 A5 B2 A6 A6 B6 B6 119 Divi- 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 037 037 708935; x sells topog- x 037 724495; 281 8.30am-7.30pm 037 706593; 7 Rue x 037 760836; www.british h x (Map p122 ; x (off Map p118 ; p118 (off Map

9am-noon & 3-8pm Mon-Sat) Good (Map p118 ; cnr Rues Moulay p118 (Map (Map p122 ; 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) (Map p122 ; Borj Eddar...... Galapagos Café...... L'Entrecôte...... Folie...... Les Casseroles en Paul...... Plage...... (see 28) Restaurant de la Restaurant Dinarjat...... Café Maure...... 5th Avenue...... Ensemble Artisanal...... C2 EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING h (Map p122 ; h A1 A1 D5 A1 B6 A2 D3 A1 A2 B2 B2 B2 24 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 25 26 27 NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF council.org.ma; 36 Rue de Tanger; 36 Rue de Tanger; council.org.ma; Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat) Offers a large library (with English papers) as well as a program of lectures and exhibitions. raphy maps, but staff about can be sensitive your . Take p417 selling some maps; see passport. Most maps need to be ordered later. up 48 hours and can be picked 723106; 344 Ave Mohammed V)723106; 344 Ave Carries a decent collection of trekking to Morocco. and travel guides (in French) Abdelhafid & Boujaad) A good range of new titles, and a good selection of books on Morocco. Ave Mohammed V; Ave picture books of Morocco. CULTURAL CENTRES CENTRES CULTURAL British Council Information BOOKSHOPS American Bookshop Aux Belles Images English Bookshop Libraire Kalila Wa Dimma Fès east of the centre; see p462 for addresses. for addresses. p462 seethe centre; Fès east of Rabat Ville train station lies towards the Many V. Mohammed Ave southern end of in the suburb are and boutiques restaurants the city centre. 3km southwest of Agdal, of MAPS in Morocco places Rabat the few is one of topographical of a range you can get where Moroccan maps and town plans. The sion de Cartographie al-Yamama) New titles and second-hand English-language al-Yamama) novels. www.acfcc.gov.ma, in French; cnr Ave Moulay Youssef & Ave Moulay Youssef & Ave cnr Ave in French; www.acfcc.gov.ma, Moulay Hassan I; SLEEPING Institute for Language & Institute for Language Riad Dar Baraka...... Riad Kasbah...... Chellah...... d'Art Nouiga...... Galérie Studies...... Communication Kasbah des Oudaias...... 20) Le Tour Hassan...... (see Mausoleum of V...... Mohammed Mosque el-Atiqa...... Musée des Oudaia...... Oudayas Surf Club...... 16) Sala Colonia...... (see Surf Club Monde de la Glisse...... Dar Al Batoul...... D4 D4 C2 B2 D4 D4 D3 B6 A6 D4 B4 B5 D3 C4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

The city’s main thoroughfare – the wide, The city’s main thoroughfare

As Muslim refugees arrived from Christian arrived Muslim refugees As Sultan ben Ab- Mohammed Meanwhile, INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Center for Cross-Cultural American Bookshop...... C4 Carpet Souq...... Learning...... US Embassy...... Italian Embassy...... Spanish Consulate...... Tunisian Embassy...... French Consulate...... French Embassy...... Canadian Embassy...... DHL...... Dutch Embassy...... Belgian Embassy...... British Embassy...... Algerian Embassy...... Algerian

palm-lined Ave Mohammed V – is where V – is where Mohammed palm-lined Ave and the main admin- you’ll find many hotels Most embassies cluster buildings. istrative de Lincoln and Ave around Place Abraham Orientation divides the medina from the II Hassan Ave the and follows the line of ville nouvelle The medina walls to the Oued Bou Regreg. Rabat separates the cities of and Salé. river lonelyplanet.com Spain, so did a band of Christian renegades, renegades, Christian Spain, so did a band of and multi- freebooters Moorish pirates, Rabat and Salé became national adventurers. – merciless pirates for corsairs havens safe called the Salleewhom English chroniclers their point they even At one created Rovers. Bou Regreg. the Republic of state, own pirate the as far as the coast of These roved corsairs USA seeking gold, and to Cornwall in Spanish Christian slave southern England to capture to sultans Alawite attempted The first labour. but no sultancurtail ever their looting sprees, them. Corsairs control over exercised really continued attacking until European shipping well into the 19th century. dallah briefly made Rabat his capital at the the 18th century, but the city soon end of In 1912 France stra- back into obscurity. fell po- nest of abandoned the hornet’s tegically in the traditional litical intrigue and unrest and instead and Marrakesh Fez capitals of power to coastalshifted Rabat, sup- where easily achieved. more were ply and defence the seat of Since then, the city has remained the king. home of and official government ATLANTIC COAST 672871, emergencies037674450;PlaceIbnSina,Agdal) h CAP Tours TRAVEL AGENCIES Office du Tourisme National Marocain TOURIST INFORMATION Main DHL POST BMCE Populaire.Banque parallel Ave Allal benAbdallah, including trated alongAve Mohammed Vand the Numerous banks(withATMs) are concen- MONEY Night Pharmacy Hôpital IbnSina/Avicenna macy windows. posted inFrench andArabicinallphar- basis;check ends onarotational therota Town andweek- pharmacies opennights SERVICES MEDICAL 3-8pm Mon-Sat) 46 Ave perhrDh7; AllalbenAbdallah; Service Livre Librairie Internet ACCESSINTERNET SOS Médecins SAMU EMERGENCY Institut Français Goethe Institut 120 Mohammed V; h tions andthecoolCaféWeimar( p127 ). Features andphotographyexhibi- Mon-Fri) alibrary,art 7RueSana’a; .goethe.de/rabat, inGerman; destinations; also makes ferry reservations. destinations; alsomakes .ma; 7RueDamas) Agoodplacefor cheapflightstoAfrican events aswellafunrestaurant, LaVerandaevents ( p126 ). Tue-Sat, noon-6.30pmThu)Films, exhibitionsandcultural 1AbdouInane; .ambafrance-ma.org; 3 from the train station or take ataxi. 3 fromthetrainstationortake faces awaitatthisbureaucratic bus office. Togethere, take h Agdal; &RueZalaka, .ma; cnrRueOuedel-Makhazine p118; Map Dh7; 9.30pm-7.30am) 24hr) Doctors oncall. 24hr) Doctors 8.30am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Smilesandvacant 8.30am-noon &3-6.30pmMon-Fri) Mp p118; (Map NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Rabat NORTH h

Mp p2 Ave p122; (Map post office ( x 9am-7.30pm) Next toLaMamma. 9am-7.30pm) Next (Map (Map p122 ; x Mp p122 ; (Map 037 737373) Private ambulanceservice. 037 737373)Private 037 674013;[email protected] h ( x x Mp p122; (Map (Map (Map p122 &Ave; cnrRueSoékarno Mp p122; (Map 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noonSat) 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map p122 ; RueMoulayRachid; 037 779934;Ave deFrance,Agdal) 037 202020;housecallDh250; Mohammed V; x x Mp p122; (Map 037 346903;RueTantan; perhr 037 733571;www.captours (off Map (off Map p118 ; x x 037 736544;www 037 701122;www h h h x 8am-8pm Mon-Fri) 10am-6.30pm 9am-noon & 037 724495; h (ONMT; off (ONMT; x 10am-7pm 037 kasbah. you canmake yourwayupthehillto in thedaysof Rovers. theSallee Fromhere fortheslavewas oncethesetting auctions an openarea linedwithcraftshops,which carpet souq the granddiplomaticresidencies. After the of themedina,withcraftshops andsomeof Consuls isoneof themore interesting areas and theriver. TurningnorthalongRuedes (Map p122 el-Bahr) goingdowntoBab ish quarter) withaninteresting until 1912),you’llcometothe diplomatslivedsuls (socalledbecause here to theright. years, isjustdownthisroadintervening rebuiltnid originalthathasbeen inthe The Chellah. atRueBab and beginsroughly Souq; Map p122 ingaudygold ) specialises the most dramatickasbah gate, is elabo- you headeast.The western end,thentextiles andsilverware as lined withfoodandspiceshops atthe with noaggressive selling. of theinterior, butit’sagreat placetoroam, intriguing atmosphere of theoldermedinas in the17thcentury,itmaylackmore bootlegged DVDs.Builtonanorderlygrid of spices,carpets,crafts,cheap and shoes the early20thcentury,isarich mixture was of thecitywhenFrench arrived in walled Rabat’s medina (Map p122 ), allthere MEDINA Sights Wagonlit Carlson that thekasbahis ‘forbidden’orclosed. but there Ignore isnoneed. anyonewhosays the appeal.Some ‘guides’ offer theirservices here,buying upthehouses andit’seasytosee esque placetowander. Many foreigners are Muslim refugees fromSpain, thisisapictur- mostlybuiltby leys andwhitewashed houses Predominately residential, withtranquil al- perch. the river andoceanfrom itscliff-top ribat, est partof thecity,site of theoriginal The KASBAH DESOUDAIAS .carlsonwagonlit.com; 1Ave MoulayAbdallah) If youcontinuepasttheRuedesCon- The 12th-century Almohad The mainmarket street isRueSouika, Grande Mosquée kasbah and commandsmagnificentviewsover (Map p118 ) thestreet ends in (Map p118 ) occupiestheold- Mp p122; (Map Souq as-Sebbat , a14th-centuryMere- x 037 709625;www lonelyplanet.com mellah Bab Oudaia (Jewellery flea market (Jew- ,

ATLANTIC COAST

121 (Map (Map Chellah is one of is one of Sala Colonia 9am-5.30pm) h , with its elegant minaret , with its elegant minaret ornamentation.small A that overlooks the ruins of the ruins of that overlooks and carved plaster, gives and carved gives plaster, zellij zellij is nearby, where the remains of of the remains is nearby, where NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF Islamic complex Near the ruined minaret is the tomb of is the tomb of Near the ruined minaret Far easier to discern are the remains of of the remains easier to discern are Far This rarely visited site, overgrown by by overgrown site, visited This rarely The Phoenicians were the first to settle the first The Phoenicians were Abou al-Hassan Ali and his wife, complete complete Ali and his wife, al-Hassan Abou with ornate medersa students’ cells and scalloped pools – pillars, mihrab (prayer as well as the blocked-off still discernable. – are niche) the the now topped by a stork’s nest. An incredible the ruins, over has taken storks colony of from their treetop site the lording over nests. If you visit in spring, the clacking is a wonderful sound- pairs mating bills of track to a visit. fruit trees and wild flowers, is an atmo- and wild flowers, fruit trees spheric place to roam around. From the a path heads down through main gate, to a trees and orange fragrant fig, olive viewing platform out the structures the Roman city. Making but the mystery imagination, bit of a takes A path this place. the magic of is part of the triple-arched leads through the ruins of entrance known as the Arc de Triomphe, (to the left) and to Temple past the Jupiter the main road), the forum (at the end of while another goes to the octagonal Pool the Roman system the Nymph, part of of distribution. water of on the grassy slopes above the river, but the but the river, on the grassy slopes above took control when the Romans town grew city was abandoned in about AD 40. The the 14th Salé, but in of in 1154 in favour al-Hassan sultan Abou century the Merenid the Roman top of Ali built a necropolis on and and surrounded it with the towers site wall that stand today. defensive Rabat’s most evocative sights. Hassan II) and grandfather have been laid been laid have and grandfather II) Hassan the despite The decoration, here. to rest patterned CHELLAH and overgrown, crumbling Abandoned, city of Roman the ancient al-Mansour ibn & Blvd Moussa Yacoub ; cnr Ave p118 (Map Nassair; admission Dh10; off an air of tranquillity. Visitors to the to the Visitors tranquillity. of off an air dressed, must be respectfully mausoleum from down into the tomb and can look a gallery. p118 ) and the Merenid necropolis of of necropolis ) and the Merenid p118

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, built in traditional Moroc- , the oldest mosque in Rabat,, the oldest (Signal Platform) with sweep- (Signal Platform) with sunrise-sunset) 037 731537; admission Dh10; Near the tower stands the marble At the end of the street is the the street At the end of Returning from the Plateforme, turn left Returning from the Plateforme, The palace itself is a grand 17th-century ( p127 ) and a side entrance to the formal ) and a side entrance p127 ( Andalusian Gardens h the national jewellery museum with a beau- tifully displayed and fascinating collection Roman and Islamic jewellery prehistoric, of Morocco. of regions found in the different can style. The present king’s father (the late king’s father (the late The present can style. Towering above Oued Bou Regreg, and and Oued Bou Regreg, Towering above gardens, is Ra-surrounded by well-tended bat’s most famous landmark, ). The Almo- p118 Tower, Map (Hassan would have hads most ambitious project its time, mosque of been the second-largest Samarra in Iraq, but sultan Yacoub after it was finished. before died al-Mansour but the a 60m-tall minaret, intended He tower was abandoned at 44m. The mosque in 1755, was destroyed by an earthquake pillars shattered of and today only a forest Al-Mansour’s of to the grandiosity testifies plans. The tower is built to the same design as the Giralda in Seville, and the Koutoubia ). p299 ( in Marrakesh LE TOUR HASSAN & MAUSOLEUM OF OF & MAUSOLEUM LE TOUR HASSAN MOHAMMED V x soleum of Mohammed V rately decorated with a series of carved a series with decorated of rately street, the main the gateway, Inside arches. runs straight through the kas- Rue Jamaa, left is the 200m ahead on the bah. About Mosque el-Atiqa in 12th century and restored built in the number You’ll also find a the 18th century. of tourist shops and a couple low-key of as the such art galleries, ), along this street. p118 (Map lonelyplanet.com estuary and across to the ing views over an ex- Salé. The elevated position provided seagoing against cellent defence attackers negotiating the sandbanks below. down Rue Bazzo, a narrow winding street popular that leads down to the du Sémaphore dens, laid out by the French during the co- dens, laid out by the French the palace grounds lonial period, occupy a wonderful shady retreat. and make affair built by Moulay Ismail. The build- ing now houses the ATLANTIC COAST Central Rabat 122 District (400m) To Agdal CENTRAL RABAT

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, offering similar serv-, offering which attracts hoards of attracts hoards of which

, Bus 17 & 30 to Intercity Bus Grands Taxis for Fez, Meknès & ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT Europcar...... Salé...... Hertz...... Petit Taxi Stand...... 47) Royal Air Maroc...... (see Royal Air Maroc...... 48) Supratours...... (see Henry's Bar...... Henry's 18) Hôtel Balima...... (see Amnesia...... Art...... Cinèma du 7ème Cinéma Renaissance...... Air France...... Avis...... Budget...... Bus 12, 13, 14, 16 or 34 to C4 53) Salé...... (see Station...... Bus 3 to Agdal...... Bus Stand (16 & 28)...... 037 675968; www.ilcs.ac.ma; 29 Rue Oukai-037 675968; www.ilcs.ac.ma; held in the last weekend of May. May. of held in the last weekend C3 B2 B2 B5 D4 B3 B2 B3 C3 B3 D4 B2 B2 D5 C4 D5 C4 C4 D4 C3 D1 x 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF Festival International Festival de Rabat Festival MawazineFestival 037 202365; www.cccl-ma.com; Ave Laalou, 11 Zankat Ave 037 202365; www.cccl-ma.com; meden, Agdal) Offersmeden, Agdal) intensive courses and private tuition in and Moroccan Arabic. French held in May, draws big names from the the draws big names from held in May, drawcard The biggest world-music scene. is the filmfestival.org, in French) filmfestival.org, Rabat for Children Rabat for Children shopping in the souqs and the free Hassle- Rabat kasbah make a pleasant impressive Institute for Language & Communication Studies & EventsFestivals and events festivals hosts a number of Rabat year, including the popular each Jazz Festival The 654362; Plage des Oudayas) Courses offering schools language Rabat has many but the following offer courses, year-long classes:short-term Center for Cross-Cultural Learning (Map p118 ; ices and equipment rental. music lovers and film buffs to the capital for music lovers and early July. June two weeks in late Hassani) Intensive short and Moroccan courses in French Arabic. x 037 061 gives gives ) still ) still x x Archaeol- EATING DRINKING Riad Oudaya...... (see 26) Riad Oudaya...... (see Pâtisserie Majestic...... Restaurant de la Libération...... Restaurant el-Bahia...... Tagine wa Tanja...... Ty Potes...... Bar de L'Alsace...... 44) Cafétéria du 7ème Art...... (see Hôtel Dorhmi...... Hôtel Majestic...... Hôtel Royal...... Hôtel Splendid...... Hotel...... Le Pietri Urban Riad Oudaya...... 9) Café Weimar...... (see Market...... Fruit & Vegetable L'R du Gout...... La Dolce Vita...... La Koutoubia...... La Mamma...... La Petit Beur - Dar Tajine...... La Véranda...... Le Grand Comptoir...... Le Ziryab...... (Map p118 ; (Map p118 ;

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, below the kasbah. Next door is of several saints of on the far right.

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On leaving the mosque, the path passesOn leaving INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING Hotel Central...... Hôtel al-Maghrib al-Jadid...... Hôtel Balima...... Hôtel Bélère...... Archaeology Museum...... Flea Market...... Souq as-Sebbat...... Spanish Embassy...... (see 8) Spanish Embassy...... (see Libraire Kalila Wa Dimma...... Main Post Office...... Night Pharmacy...... Institu Français...... 31) Internet...... (see French Consulate-General...... German Embassy...... Goethe Institut...... CAP Tours...... Carlson Wagonlit...... English Bookshop...... Banque Populaire...... (see 21) Banque Populaire...... (see BMCE (ATM)...... British Council...... Aux Belles Images...... Aux Belles C4 Parent; admission Dh10; Parent; a good account of Morocco’s history. Prehis- Morocco’s history. a good account of toric finds include a beautiful neolithic rock carving a man surrounded by concentric of circles. The highlight the collection is the of Salle des Bronzes statuary and artefacts from the Roman settle-statuary and artefacts ments at Volubilis, Lixus and Chellah. Look Juba II and the out for the beautiful head of Cato the the bust of of realism unforgiving – both found at Volubilis. Younger 260683; 3 Plage des Oudayas; 90min surfboard/bodyboard lesson Dh150)

SURFING was a founding mem- VI Mohammed King the ber of Activities ogy Museum ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM MUSEUM ARCHAEOLOGY (even if and forlorn but interesting Dusty the only in French), the labels are lonelyplanet.com the the the the a walled of To the left, the murky waters pool (marked attract women who believe that feeding attract women who believe that feeding boiled eggs brings fertility to the eels here and easy childbirth. ATLANTIC COAST Rue Ghazza;s/dDh104/130,withbathroom Dh130/190) of things,theDormhioffers quietrooms. Populaire.Banque Despite beinginthehub tral courtyardonthe1stfloorabove the are andtidysurroundacen- bright of themedinaoptions.Thesimple rooms priced, thisfamily-runhotel isthebest maculately kept, very friendlyandkeenly the villenouvelle. here, paytheextraandheadfor otherwise showers. Thebestmedinaoptionsare listed any kindof creature comforts,including hotels, they’re pretty basicandmanylack themedinaisfullofAlthough budget BUDGET end hotels. and hasadisproportionate numberof top- caters mainlyforbusinesstravellersRabat aroundaninternal garden). set houses dives andacoupleof upmarket riads(town the oldmedinahasahostof low-budget hammed VandAve Abderrahman, while in thenouvelle Ave medinabetween Mo- betterMost of Rabat’s accommodation is Sleeping (p132). iques of towntothebeach, ortheJardins Exot- younger visitors Thebestbetistoheadout are few specificattractionsinthecityfor place tovisitwithchildren. there However 124 place handy to everything intown. place handytoeverything a littlepastitsbest,butremains afriendly has agood-value range of simplerooms. It’s intheheartof right town,theHotel Central Dh10) Basra; s/d90/130,withbathroomDh120/170,hotshower quirky character of thisplace. ing pinkwallsbutit’sallpartof therather of You’lleitherlove light. orhate theshock- and have shuttered windowsthatletinlots theyaresmall andspartan, pristinelyclean, theroomsatthishotelAlthough are fairly courtyard. Bathrooms arecourtyard. Bathrooms newand rooms wooden furniture are around apleasant set big windows,cheerful colours andsimple ceilings, roomswithhigh spacious, bright Slap-bang intheheartof themedina, the 732207; 2 Rue Sebbahi; s/dDh70/110, hotshowerDh7.50) 732207; 2RueSebbahi; Mohammed V;s/dDh90/130,hotshowerDh10) Hôtel Splendid Hôtel Hotel Central Hotel Hôtel al-Maghrib al-Jadid al-Maghrib Hôtel Hôtel Dorhmi Hôtel NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Rabat NORTH Opposite the imposing Balima andOpposite theimposingBalima

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.hotelmajestic.ma; 121Ave HassanII;s/dDh239/279) .hotel-balima.com; Ave MohammedV;s/dDh450/580; restaurant byrathersurlywaiters. in thedownstairs equate breakfast isserved cleaning therooms inthemorning.Anad- are make aracket quite noisyandthestaff large terrace. Theroomsonthelowerfloors park andcity,are quieter andcomewitha on the4thfloorhave thebest viewsover the and sparklingcleanbathrooms.The rooms withpolishedwoodenfurniturefortable, al’s tastefully renovated roomsare very com- offer butinavery centrallocation.TheRoy- and there isagoodwinelist. Moroccan andMediterranean specialities dining. Onthemenuare contemporary rant withasmallgardenforelegantalfresco rary style. Thehotel hasanexcellentrestau- decorated inwarmcolours inacontempo- floors are wellequippedand comfortable, roomswithwooden The 36spaciousbright central, butmore residential, partof town. value boutiquehotel inaquietstreet ina renovatedwas totally andisnowagood- off Aveoff Mohammed V. commodation, mostof itlocated onorjust hasalimited choice ofRabat midrange ac- MIDRANGE basin. without bathroomshave ahot-water wash- 037 709801; 33Ave Moulay Youssef;s/dDh665/864; place to meet in Rabat. inRabat. place tomeet terrace facingAve Mohammed V–stillthe andagloriousshady andnightclub taurant over thecity.Thehotel hasadecentres- all immacutely kept andwithgreat views en-suitedecorated rooms, andcomfortable tobebutstilloffersgrand assheused newly hotelsThe granddameof isnotas Rabat 650/1050; 4RueTobrouk;s/d/steDh600/ 707820; www.lepietri.com; Dh400/600) for aroomattheback. noisy, soit’sbesttoforego themedinaview spite thedoubleglazingroomscanbe and fittings–ifnotalotof character. De- newfurnituresmallish roomswithsleek, latial asitsounds.Thismodernplacehas notaspa- other excellentoption,though Hôtel Bélère Hôtel o Hôtel Balima Hôtel Hôtel Majestic Hôtel Hôtel Royal Hôtel ai Slightly expensive Slightly forwhat’son Le Piétri Urban Hotel UrbanHotel Le Piétri

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ATLANTIC COAST

037 125 pas- x 037 734504; x (Map p118 ; 037 702392; 46 Rue 037 702392; 46 Rue

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to stuffed calamari. Restaurant Dinarjat Built into the outside of the medina Built into the outside of NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF , and grilled meat and fish. pastilla Restaurant el-Bahia Riad Oudaya Le Ziryab o 724239; 6 Rue Belgnaoui; menu Dh450, bottle wine Dh80) najar; mains Dh90-140) marginally more classy than the string the string than classy more marginally (it’s got along this road eateries other of this basic plastic menus and tablecloths), does line in traditional restaurant a steady day when Friday is couscous favourites. to delivered the stuff of are giant platters masses.the eager Stylish and the most elegant of medina res- Stylish and the most elegant of taurants, with well- Dinarjat is a favourite It’s set in alike. heeled locals and visitors a superb 17th-century Andalusian-style has the medina, and house at the heart of in a and decorated restored been carefully with tra- style but in keeping contemporary is an ode to the Arab- dition. The restaurant living with its sumptuous Andalusian art of Sidi Fateh; lunch/dinner Dh220/330) Sidi Fateh; Ave Hassan II; mains Dh50; Hassan II; mains Ave in winter) sublime but need to be ordered in advance in advance but needsublime to be ordered (see ). below Eating restaurants Rabat of a wonderful choice has hole-in-the-walls and cheerful from cheap the city’s feeding gourmet pads to upmarket diplomats. politicians and legions of RESTAURANTS Medina Libération Restaurant de la taurant building just off is in a magnificent old-world Rue des Consuls. The blend of design contemporary and stylish character inter- in the excellent menu of is reflected couscous, esting variations on tajine, tilla a wooden behind away taurant squirreled is reason the medina of door in the depths enough to come to Rabat. Set in a gorgeous din- riad, it dishes up gourmet five-course anything from juicy tajines featuring ners or Mohammed V; mains Dh30) walls and a good spot for people-watching, walls and a good spot for people-watching, has the locals lap- restaurant this laid-back Sit on the ping up hearty Moroccan fare. in the shaded courtyard terrace, pavement salon. in the traditional or upstairs

037 037 x Recog- 037 702392; www (Map p118 ; 037 705247; www.riad x 037 727250, 061 401181;

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; s/d incl breakfast Dh990/1430) ; s/d incl breakfast This grand 18th-century mer- e This four-star hotel is a step up a step is hotel four-star This Riad Dar Baraka ) Riad Kasbah Dar Al Batoul Riad Oudaya o www.riadbatoul.com; 7 Derb Jirari; d/ste incl breakfast Dh1100/1600) 730362, 061 783361; www.darbaraka-rabat.com; 26 Rue de la Mosqué Tucked away down an alleyway in the me- away Tucked guest house is a real dina, this gorgeous The rooms around a spectacu- hidden gem. with decorated tastefully lar courtyard are Moroccan style and Western a blend of comfort. Subtle lighting, open fireplaces, the of gurgling balconies and the gentle fountain courtyard below com- in the tiled are here the romantic appeal. Meals plete .riadoudaya.com; 46 Rue Sidi Fateh; r/ste Dh1350/1650) .riadoudaya.com; 46 Rue Sidi Fateh; from the other options in this price range price range in this the other options from comfortable but extremely small and offers (albeit rooms with tasteful nonsmoking back in modern decor, now 1970s) very has a good bar and restaurant fashion. It to the train station.and it’s handy Set the kasbah away from the the heart of in peaceful the city, this sublimely hubbub of guest house to the Riad property is a sister as luxuri- Although not quite Oudaya. it’s rooms ous, this beautiful house has three decor. with elegant traditional Rabat offers all the usual top international all the usual top international Rabat offers but for something with a little hotels, chain the medina options offer local flavour more style and service.ultra-chic TOP END TOP END asi lonelyplanet.com oudaya.com; 49 Rue Zirara; s/d incl breakfast Dh880/980) 49 Rue Zirara; s/d incl breakfast oudaya.com; nisable from the blue door at the end of nisable from the blue door at the end of the kasbah, this most of the main street delightful guest house has superb views just are the estuary and Salé. There over both two rooms – one small and one large, and electric blue, and in white decorated bright book ahead. and airy – so definitely is servedBreakfast in summer on a terrace is, This really in winter. or by the fireplace home-away- in all its simplicity, the dream from-home. chant’s house has beenchant’s transformed into a with just eight rooms in sumptuous hotel Centred on a traditional Moroccan style. room graceful columned courtyard, each with stunning combinations of is different, fabrics, stained tilework. and intricate glass Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST Français, 1 Rue AbouInane;mains Dh90-150; set menuDh70-105; ordered inadvance. Goodwinelist. pigeon labour-intensive specialitieslike here, includingtajines andcouscous,but classic Moroccandishes zallij can restaurant withplentyof traditional well attended. back, andtheSundaybrunch isparticularly more European, withalittlegardenatthe locals.Theatmospherewith well-heeled is It’spopular andsandwiches. healthy salads andsavoury crepes, sweet serving house, andwelcominglunch spotandteapleasant travelling alone. spot, andnotsointimidatingforwomen nificent Fridaycouscous.It’safairlyquiet pes, ormake aspecialoutingforthemag- grills ortajines prepared totraditional reci- fromarange Choose ofstation. wood-fired this small,friendlyrestaurant nearthetrain earth Moroccandishesare thespecialityat o Ville Nouvelle Bookinadvance.surprisingly light. freshest ingredients, usinglittlefat,andare arecouscous andsalads prepared withthe peaceful oud(lute) music.Thetajines, architecture, refined traditionalfoodand 126 731322; 8RueDamas;mealsDh66-84; leave youplanning a return visit. the wood-fired pizzasandgrilledmeatswill touch of 1970sromanticatmosphere, and adda beamed ceilingsandcandlelittables of intown. The thebestpizzaandpasta some outside, butthisoldfavourite serves de Baghdad;mainsDh70-90; or get there earlyasitfillsupquickly. music toaccompanyyourmeal.Bookahead waiters doubleasmusiciansandplayoud lunchtime butlivens whenthe upatnight best tajines andheavenly couscoustooneof the excellent Moroccanfood,fromsucculent This modestlittleplaceisrenowned forits Parent; mainsDh90-140) mains fromDh80) a Veranda La La Mamma Ty Potes Ty Potes La Koutoubia Tajine waTanja NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Rabat NORTH pastillas andcolourfulpainted panels.Allthe or Le Petit Beur–DarTajine mechoui Mp p122; (Map

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wi-fi. have breakfast orcoffee too,andthere is orveal kidneys.Agoodplacetosausage) or bebrave andtrythe background. Goforthesucculentsteaks whileapianisttinklesinthegrand salon palms andcontemporary artadornthe classic French giant menu.Candelabras, customers withitschic surroundingsand suave restaurant andlounge barwoos of anold-worldParisienne this brasserie, ing the ocean. ing theocean. both have glass-fronted terraces overlook- full. There’s them: between littletochoose Eddaris views,iftheBorj and thesame delaPlageRestaurant hasasimilarmenu dishes.fresh Thenext door fishandseafood hasamenuof excellentlooking thesea menu and attitudeatthis upmarket old- 175) .legrandcomptoir.ma; 279Ave MohammedV;mainsDh95- Ave del’Atlas, Agdal; mainsaroundDh130) the delicious dessert trolley. the deliciousdessert Keepwith varioussauces. somespacefor mushrooms andduckbreast), andsteaks withwild (asalad Salade desCasseroles food isvery French withspecialitieslike tries, butmore relaxed The intheevening. with bureaucrats fromthenearbyminis- French restaurant ispopularatlunchtime sauce. gras, veal kidneys,andsteak withapepper ditional French foodsuch brasserie asfoie tra- by youngFrench men.Themenuserves French bistortandMoroccanflair–isrun withacolourfulinteriortaurant –ablendof Sun) Borj Eddar Outside theCentre trendy. It’sjustbehind thechurch. isyoungandon ablackboard. Thestaff bistro foodfromachanging menuwritten good contemporary French-Mediterranean ing theplacetobeatlunchtime. Itserves under majestic palmtrees, isalready prov- gardena modernistvillawithpleasant Comptoir, thisloft-style restaurant, in Amir Fal Ould Omar,Agdal; mainsaroundDh140) mainsDh100-150) Abd el-Aziz; Dh120; L’R duGout Les Casseroles enFolie Les Casseroles L’Entrecôte Le GrandComptoir Run by the same owner as Le Grand ownerasLe Runbythesame Sleek, stylishandoozingthecharms Sleek, h closed Oct-Apr)

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NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF Sit back, relax and just gaze out over and just gaze out over Sit back, relax A happening bar-restaurant in Agdal, in Agdal, A happening bar-restaurant Le Puzzle Cafetéria du 7ème Art El Rancho You’ll find Western food at the vast You’ll find Western Ave Allal ben Abdallah) Ave favoured by suburban sophisticates. It It sophisticates. by suburban favoured style and traditional mix of has a strange modern design but pulls in the punters with half-price gigs (ex- beer live and daily cept for Wednesday and Sunday karaoke nights). of a cinema ( p128 ), this popular outdoor ), this p128 a cinema ( of students of clientele café attracts a mixed place but It’s a relaxed and professionals. passing traffic it less the noise of makes tranquil than Café Maure. rant and bar where Rabat’srant and bar where well-heeled go clubbing. The and a drink before for a bite is electric, when on weekends atmosphere turned up a few the world-music beat gets notches. choice of the estuary to Salé from this chilled open- this chilled the estuary to Salé from several in the terraces over air café spread is the thing tea Andalusian Gardens. Mint accompanied by little almond biscuits here, to trays. It’s an easy place on silver delivered pass time writing postcards, and a relaxed for women. venue the road to Salé. ibn Sina, Agdal; beer Dh45; ibn Sina, Agdal; BARS for intimidating pretty Most Rabat are bars modern, popular joints women. The more bet. a safer are Mischliffen, Agdal; lunch) Drinking CAFÉS Maure Café thing from burgers and brochettes to pizza to and brochettes from burgers thing and panini. SELF-CATERING for self- is the best place to go The medina The indoor supplies. catering ble market 5.30pm) nuts. You should be able to find everything nuts. You should else you need booze) at the sur- (including rounding stalls or along Rue Souika and near Bab el-Bouiba. permarché Marjane Slick 7.30am-11pm) Delicious Delicious 037 686879; 14 037 686879; 14 h x 037 707329; 8 Tanta; 037 707329; 8 Tanta; An excellent and x 063 428101; 7 Rue Sana’a; x 7.30am-1am) (Map p122 ; cnr Rue Jeddah Am- p122 (Map

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This hip café in the Goethe Institut (Map p118 ; Another good spot is around Rue Tanta Another good spot is around Rue Tanta La Dolce Vita Paul Paul Galapagos Café Pâtisserie Majestic pizza Dh55) Blvd al-Amir Fal Ould Omar, Agdal; snacks Dh25-45) Ould Omar, Agdal; Blvd al-Amir Fal al-Muttahida, mains from Dh60; Agdal; café-terrace with dark-wood panelling, con- café-terrace and floor-to-ceiling furniture temporary windows. It’s popular with young profes- crêpes, panini and sionals for its ice cream, people-watching in the ville nouvelle, where you’ll find a you’ll find a where in the ville nouvelle, joints serving fast-food selection of every- The best place for quick, cheap food in Rabat food The best place for quick, cheap the me- V just inside Mohammed is on Ave hole-in- you’ll find a slew of Here dina gate. brochettes, out tajines, the-wall joints dishing You’ll and cheaper. for cheap salads and chips locals know the best ones by the queue of waiting patiently to be served. QUICK EATS QUICK EATS This French bakery and patisserie is the and patisserie is the bakery This French place to hang out in Rabat, serving the best good sand- croissants in town for breakfast, saladswiches, and a light menu throughout or on the the day. Sit in the elegant interior terrace. pleasant, if noisy, streetside Cafe Weimar CAFES, PATISSERIES & ICE-CREAM & ICE-CREAM CAFES, PATISSERIES PARLOURS style restaurant in Agdal are very French French very are in Agdal style restaurant and rough dark woods but the are plaster than Bor- Bavaria of reminiscent more fish and game specialities deaux. Steak, menu, and to French the classic dominate or jazz further confuse the ambience there’s music at night.Spanish traditional lonelyplanet.com extremely popular patisserie, perfect for for popular patisserie, perfect extremely and coffee, cake or an afternoon breakfast town. of and right in the centre mane & Ave Allal ben Abdallah) Allal mane & Ave homemade Italian gelato next to the Ital-homemade Italian gelato 40 with over restaurant, ian La Mamma flavours. is where the young and beautiful hang out is where It also does or lunch. and coffee a for cake menu and is a good simple Mediterranean Book ahead, but spot for Sunday brunch. no reservations are on Friday and there Saturday cones/tubs Dh7/12; ATLANTIC COAST Henry’s Bar rather thansqueaky-cleantrendsetters, try coolonsummernights. pleasantly It’sarelaxedbe seen. placeforwomenand of isagreat and theBalima placetojustsee goby,theleafyterrace infront watch Rabat the chic townbars andanexcellentplaceto open all day but close byabout10pm. open alldaybutclose twoarethick andthealcohol neat.These where thesmokemale-only preserves is Cinéma Renaissance marked as Most filmsare dubbedinFrench, unless CINEMA techno toMiddleEastern. and features fromhiphopto everything plays abetter range of musicthantheothers on aMoroccanimpression of NewYork,it Another USA-themed bar,thisonestyled makewon’t even itpastthedoor. fordrinks,anddressthe same uporyou to payaboutDh100Dh150get inand plenty of boozetonumbthedecor. Expect few try-hardthemeclubswhere youneed fare,usually fairlystandard andthere’s a All thelarge hotels have theirowndiscos, a fairlygoodrange of from. clubstochoose butthere’ssubdued –thanCasablanca’s still nightlife isalotmoreRabat’s limited –and NIGHTCLUBS papers forlistings. on offer. ChecktheFrench-language news- so there’s usuallyagoodchoice of events educated localslookingforentertainment and plentyof andwell- young,well-heeled hasalargeRabat international community Entertainment 128 L’Alsace come here just lapitup. chart popbuttheyoungsocialites who of Themusicispretty theweek. standard diner-style backroom)buzzesmostnights this USA-themed place(complete witha free) nastir; admissionMon-Thu &SatDh150,women Dh100,Fri al-Widane, Agdal; coverDh80; Ave Mohammed V;orchestra/balcony Dh30/35) med V; Hôtel Balima Hôtel If you’re of insearch old-timelocalhaunts Amnesia 5th Avenue The hippest club in downtown Rabat, ThehippestclubindowntownRabat, NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Rabat NORTH h Mp p122; (Map 8am-11pm)

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both staunch 037 722168; 360 or This Bar de h Ave admissionDh20) AllalbenAbdallah; Air France des Potiers ( p132 ). bet istoheadacrossSalétheComplexe ofselection crafts.Forceramics,yourbest Middle Eastern andEuropean films. Middle Eastern films, thiscinemashows mainlyMoroccan, for more localofferings andart-house airport willcostaboutDh100. Artisanal in ontheaction. touristsare though even sight notallowed RuedesConsuls,agreatthe carpetsouqoff at auction theircarpetstolocalsalesmen ings womendescendfromthevillages to voured. On TuesdayandThursday morn- formal, Islamicstyle(see p67 ) isstillfa- andthemoretraditional craftsinRabat, zellij this area fromjewellery,silksandpottery to in wards thekasbah.You’llfindeverything in themedinaandBlvdTariq al-Marsa to- ticularly inandaroundtheRuedesConsuls still have afairbitof goodhandicrafts,par- there isalsolessspacetobargain. Thesouqs inrelativeyou canstrollthestalls peace,but merchants. There’s littlepressure tobuy,so great Rabat’s shopping secret isitslaid-back Shopping shows mainstream Hollywoodflicks. large cinemacomplexonthemaindrag Both are the lesschaotic where departandarrive, mostbuses and routière –themain hastwobusstations Rabat BUS Tiny AIR &Away There Getting left-luggage service service left-luggage Paris with northeast of town,onlyhasdirect to flights road toCasablanca. 3km southwestof thecitycentre onthe 11pm) .co.ma; 281Ave MohammedV) 709766; www.royalairmaroc.com; Ave Mohammed V) For fixed pricesheadforthe Weaving wasoneof themostimportant Cinéma du7èmeArt 9am-noon &2.30-6.30pm) and carved woodenfurniture. andcarved . Toget to thetowncentre fromeither Rabat-Salé Airport Airport Rabat-Salé

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Place Melilla to Salé. From near Bab al-Had to Rabat’s gare Ave Moulay Hassan to Bab Zaer, for the Ave Rabat Ville train station NORTHRabat •• CASABLANCA OF is right in the centre of town (not to of is right the centre in From Bab al-Had to Temara Beach. From Bab al-Had to Temara Rabat Ville train station to Agdal. Supratours On all long-distance routes there’s always On all long-distance there’s routes Trains run every 30 minutes from 6am to from Trains run every 30 minutes Chellah. 12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat) SALÉ pop 400,000 counterpart Still a long way from its lively the Oued and old rival on the other bank of Salé is a quiet and traditional Bou Regreg, time seems place, where have to kind of stood still. But not for too long, as a massive Bus 3 Buses 12 & 13 Buses 17 & 30 Bus 33 TAXI Rabat’s plentiful, cheap blue petits taxis are town of and quick. A ride around the centre a will cost about Dh15 to Dh20. There’s the me- petit-taxi rank near the entrance of II. Hassan dina on Ave Getting Around Getting Around BUS listed Some useful (Dh4) are bus routes below: Buses 2 & 4 TRAIN TRAIN in way to arrive convenient is the most Train Rabat, as be confused station train with Rabat Agdal The station the city). is in useof to the west time of at the refurbishment but was under Budget counter, only the ticket writing, and and routière via the map office; 17 goes on past the zoo to routière Beach. Temara 736060) one late-night ordinaire train among the train among the ordinaire one late-night for information p497 rapide services (see the 2nd-class for on train classes). Fares rapide service (Dh76, 3½ hours, include Fez (Dh60, 2½ hours), eight daily) via Meknès daily) via three Oujda (Dh182, 10 hours, (Dh91, 4½ Tangier (Dh113, six hours), Taza (Dh112, sevenhours, daily) and Marrakesh eight daily). 4½ hours, 10.30pm between Rabat Ville and Casa-Port train stations to Dh46) and Kenitra (Dh36 the train to Mo- Taking (Dh15, 30 minutes). one hour and 40 hammed V Airport (Dh67, at a change in Casablancaminutes) requires or at Aïn Sebaa.Casa Voyageurs 037 722328; 25 Rue Patrice 037 722328; 25 Rue Patrice 037 705789; Rabat Ville train x 037 707366; 467 Ave Mohammed V).037 707366; 467 Ave 037 769759; 7 Rue Abou Faris 037 769759; 7 Rue Abou Faris x x x (Map p122 ; (Map p122 ; (Map p122 ; (Map p122 ; Arriving by bus from the north, you may bus from the north, you Arriving by has busesCTM the following: to station, Ave Mohammed V)station, Ave Grands taxis leave for Casablanca (Dh35) for Casablanca (Dh35) Grands taxis leave bus station. from just outside the intercity (Dh59), for Fez Other grands taxis leave (Dh46) and Salé (Dh4) from a Meknès the Hôtel II behind Hassan lot off Ave Bou Regreg. TAXI TAXI City centre parking restrictions apply from parking restrictions City centre 8am to noon and 2pm to 7pm Monday to There’s cost Dh3 per hour. Saturday; meters car park near the junction of a convenient V. Mohammed II and Ave Hassan Ave Hertz Europcar Budget CAR Rabat local car-rental of has no shortage rates cheaper offer which – most of agencies than these agencies: international Avis There are also international services also international are There to (Dh735) and Barcelona (Dh1190), Madrid (Dh1480). Paris Fez 68 3½ every hr 10 3 190 Agadir Casablanca 65 El-Jadida 3½ every 35 3 Er-Rachidia 145 3½ 10 8 Essaouira 115 68 Fez 1 1½ 3 9½ 1 Marrakesh 120 30min 5 3 1 9½ Nador 150 5½ Oujda 145 every every hr Safi 105 4½ 5 90 Tangier 192 Taroudannt 2 10 10½ 5 88 Tetouan 1 198 Tiznit 1 (Dh) (hr) services (hr) Destination Cost (Dh) Duration No of daily station, take bus 30 (Dh4) or a petit taxi station, taxi or a petit bus 30 (Dh4) take (Dh20). throughpass central Rabat, it’s worth so in town. can be dropped off asking if you some time by Otherwise,you could save alighting at Salé and takinga local bus (Dh4) or grand taxi Rabat. (Dh4) into central lonelyplanet.com al-Marini) Lumumba) ATLANTIC COAST Salé of atSala as inhabitants theoldersettlement century andthetowngrew inimportance People in begantosettle Salé inthe 10th History is alottighter . here, andthedressmore code conservative commuters. Peopleto Rabat are noticeably acterless apartmentbuildings,mostlyhome beyond itliesasprawlingtownwithchar- andbeautifulmosques,but medina houses Moroccan village withitsnarrowalleys,old ments andshoppingmalls. bridges withapart- andanewdevelopment the 21stcenturywithanewtramway, project isunderwaytobringthecityinto 130 Atlantic SALÉ Ocean The centre of Saléfeels more like atypical

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131 in the and the and the , textiles, , textiles, marabout Souq el-Ghezel , on the lane be- medersa, , featuring second-, featuring Souq el-Merzouk Souq el-Kebir NORTHSalé •• CASABLANCA OF Koubba of Sidi ben Ashir at-Taleb In the nearby There are two more shrines in Salé: the two more are There TAXI TAXI to Salé medina from The easiest way to get Rabat is to pick up a taxi close to the Hôtel II; ask for the Hassan on Ave Bou Regreg, tween the mosque and stop. an interesting makes (Wool Market), the price men and women haggle over Here, rough wool as it hangs white and quality of from ancient scales suspended from a large tripod. and crafted and jewellery are basketwork souq for travel- sold. The least interesting is the lers hand clothing and household items. Sleeping & Eating is little point in staying in Salé as There accommo- of choice better a much there’s hole-in- plenty of dation in Rabat. are There the-wall cafés in the souqs and surrounding just south of as well as in the area streets, Place Bab Khebaz. Getting There & Away BUS the Salé’s main bus station is 1km east of medina, but buses Rabat from also stop outside Bab Mrissa. From Rabat bus take 12, 13, 14, 16 or 34 (Dh4) from Place al- off II, and get Hassan just off Ave Mellah This is also the place to take at Bab Kehbaz. the bus back. Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed at-Tijani Zawiya of white SOUQS head back to From the Grande Mosquée, a Rasthe souqs via the Rue ash-Shajara, lined with the houses built by wealthy street and unchanged by trees Shaded merchants. for centuries, the atmospheric is revered among Christians. An annual annual An Christians. among is revered his honour in and procession pilgrimage Salé on of its way through the streets makes birthday, Mouloud (the Prophet’s the eve of local spring). On this day, usually in late corsair cos- in elaborate dress fishermen wax carry decorated others tumes, while parade through and streets, the sculptures the at the shrine of ending up (saint). the mosque. northwest of cemetery

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base to the carved stucco and elegant Small student cells surround the gal- There are a few banks along Rue Fon- banks along a few are There

By the 19th century the pirates had been the pirates 19th century By the as a museum. Similar to those in Fez or as a museum. Similar to those in Fez a small court- the form of it takes Meknès, yard surrounded by a gallery. The walls are decoration from the in intricate blanketed zellij cedar woodwork. you lery on the upper floor, from where has ex- which can climb to the flat roof, Salé and across to Rabat.cellent views of The guardian who shows you around will expect a small tip. saint of Salé. This respected Sufi died in Sufi died in Salé. This respected saint of by Moroccan travellers 1604 and is revered the samein much way as St Christopher SHRINES the Grande Mosquée is the of To the rear Sidi Abdallah ibn Hassoun Zawiya of are superb examples of Merenid artistry. artistry. Merenid superb examples of are Sultan built in 1333 by Almohad They were Ali. The mosque is closed al-Hassan Abu to non-Muslims, but the splendid (admission Dh10; Central to life in pious Salé and one of Central in pious Salé and one of to life establishments in the the oldest religious country, the Grand Mosquée and Sights GRANDE MOSQUÉE & MEDERSA Orientation & Information Orientation Information & seenSalé is best from trip on an afternoon Rabat. medina is main entrance to the The wall, on the southwestern Bab Bou Haja, Place Bab opens onto Khebaz.which From and find the walk north to the souqs, here further northwest Grande Mosquée 500m (also known as along Rue Ras ash-Shajara Alternatively Rue de la Grande Mosquée). runs inside the city walk along the road that for and Bab Malka walls past Bab Bou Haja straightforward approach. a more Bab To the south Mrisa el-Handi. douk Abd ocean by canal, to the was once connected rightallowing ships to float into the city. It that Robinson Crusoe was broughtwas here The Defoe’sinto the town in Daniel novel. cooperative, (pottery des Potiers Complexe the the medina on ) is southeast of p132 road to Oulja. lonelyplanet.com broughtRabat control, under been had made capital obscurity. and Salé sunk into ATLANTIC COAST Cooperative; summer) French; adult/childDh10/5; The Jardins Exotiques is hometothe The village of Oulja,3kmsoutheastof Salé, desPotiers Complexe AROUND RABAT &SALÉ minutes (Dh15). tions. TrainsnorthtoKenitra 30 runevery aregrands taxis probablythesimplestop- or butbuses Trains runto/fromRabat, TRAIN (Dh14). train station forKenitrataxis leave fromjustnorthof the Fès.Grands and there’s atBab stand ataxi Petitsor outof Rabat. are taxis frequent, arepetits taxis notpermitted tocrossinto (Dh4oneway).Note that Mrisa and Bab there are departures el-Jedid fromBab BouHajaBab Mrissa. orBab FromSalé 132 (Dh4) from Bab Khebaz. Khebaz. (Dh4) fromBab Salé (aboutDh15)orcatch bus35or53 smiths. Toget here from take apetittaxi bybasketshops used weavers andblack- calyptus forests. fuelled bytwigsandleaves fromnearbyeu- but more rustic piecesare stillfired inkilns degradationandairpollution, vironmental is fired in gaskilnsdesignedtoreduce en- and reaches 900°C.Finedomesticpottery in enormouskilns.Afiringtakes 15hours then glazingandfiringthefinishedpieces throwing andturningitonkickwheels, itontheleftasyoudrive in), (you’ll see inthesurroundinghills from arich seam at thebackof thecomplex,bringinginclay huge range of ceramics.Thepotters work lead through overgrownlead through Brazilian rainfor- and a vuivarium. Colour-coded paths Didactique, with birdcages, anaquarium garden indifferent cultures; andtheJardin referring more tothephilosophyof the on hismanytravels; the Jardin Culture, vegetation thehorticulturalist encountered Nature, thatevoke theexotic plantations The gardensare dividedintotheJardin yearsin 2005after of several restoration. Natural Heritage site in2003andreopened Marcel François in1951,wasdeclared a The centre has acaféandsomework- NORTH OF CASABLANCA •• Around Rabat &Salé OFCASABLANCA••AroundRabat NORTH Jardins Exotiques , created by French horticulturist h sunrise-sunset) sunrise-sunset) Complexe desPotiers Complexe h (www.jardinsexotiques, in(www.jardinsexotiques, 9am-5pm winter,to7pm which producesa (Pottery Above thebeach, the currents canbedangerous forswimming. ous wave action,goodfor surfers, butthe locals. Itgets someseri- lar spotwithRabat des Nations Belghazi The first in museum Morocco, the DarBelghazi Musée main gate atSalémedina. Moulay Hassan Fès,the orBab inRabat, toKenitra.the road Take bus28fromAve popular spotforcourtingcouples. are agreat placetobringchildren. It’salsoa Environment. VI FoundationfortheProtection of the ismanagedExotiques bytheMohammed grounds andanAndalusiangarden.Jardins est, Polynesianjungle,Japanese pleasure bus 17 from Bab al-Hadbus 17fromBab inRabat. and sunbathers alike. Itcanbereached on southwest of thecity,popularwithsurfers such asthewildandsandy There are toRabat, beautifulbeaches close Beaches 822131; fax037822143;s/dDh550/670; road toKenitra. wooden 17th-century carpets,exquisitely carved astrologist attheQarawiyincourtinFez), wasanments, (oneof thefirst Belghazis and arestaurant hasaboutiquewithsouvenirsThe museum Fez, andminiature copiesof theQuran. exceptional pottery andembroideryfrom century, intricate goldandsilver jewellery, doors andceilingsdatingfromthe10th family. bytheBelghazi amassed ish MoroccanandIslamicartscrafts collection of traditionalAndalusian, Jew- chance of aroominsummer. To get tothe bathrooms. Bookinadvance tohave any andhavecomfortable oceanviewsand new since the’70s.Rooms atthisresort hotel are of retro glorywithdecorlargely unchanged of theSalémedina. lay Hassan orfromthemaingate inRabat incl private roomsDh100; incl private Dh40, inFrench; admissiontomaincollection oriental.com, The clean, sandy stripofThe clean,sandy beach at The gardensare on 13kmnorthof Rabat The gardensare tranquilonweekend, and The museum is17kmfromSaléonthe The museum Displays includemeasuringinstru- ( minbars x , 17km north of Rabat, isapopu- , 17kmnorthof Rabat, 037 822178;www.museebelghazi.maroc

Take bus28fromAve Mou- (pulpits fromamosque), h 8.30am-6pm) Hôtel Firdaous Hôtel Temara Plage lonelyplanet.com s , hasavast ) is ahaven Musée Dar Musée

, 13km ( x Plage 037 ATLANTIC COAST 133 (shrines) koubbas Merdja Zerga National (4000hectares of water and the rest and the rest water of (4000hectares Although the largest flocks are present in present flocks are Although the largest Moulay Bousselham is named after a a Moulay Bousselham after is named December and January, you’ll find herons, December and January, and flamingos, ibises, spoonbills, plovers and or April, as March as late here egrets about 100 species all year round. are there The calm lagoon is also a good place to see and Audouin’s gulls, and the slender-billed that line the slope down to the sea,that line the slope down and Moroc- the river. guards the mouth of for psychological cans seeking a cure 24 into the tomb for locked problems are another shrine is the river Across hours. sterile el-Galil, believed to cure Sidi Abd of women. You’ll find everything you need including a bank, along the one main street, in- post office, pharmacy and a couple of is no cafés (Dh8 per hour), but there ternet in town. alcohol PARK MERDJA ZERGA NATIONAL in Moulay Bous- pleasures the great One of selham, even for the most unconvinced of a boat out on Merdja is to take twitchers, with Zerga (the Blue Lagoon), preferably a bird guide who will bring the place to The 7300-hectare life. Park migrant attracts thousands of marshland) and fla- birds, including wildfowl, waders making it one numbers, mingos in huge habitats. Morocco’s prime birdwatching of The lagoon is between 50cm and 4m deep percent of Ninety depending on the tide. comes from the sea,the water 10% is sweet the south of from the Oued Dredr, water lagoon. 10th-century Egyptian saintcom- who is 10th-century Egyptian the in one of memorated Sights & Activities slowly expanding, as retired Europeans are are Europeans as retired expanding, slowly is a sweep- There starting here. to buy homes the year), for most of (empty ing beach, and an restaurants good fish friendly people, important internationally wild- impressive, fowl reserve. Except for the summer months, days, with place to spend a few this is a great fishing than birdwatching, to do little more come Surfers along the beach. or strolling but the strong the crashing waves, for here In swimmers. for dangerous are currents dramatically as summer the pace changes for resort becomes a low-key the village Moroccans, and the inhabitants swell from around 1000 to 65,000. NORTH Bousselham Moulay •• CASABLANCA OF Me- ﻣﻮﻻﻱ

037 747209, 060 037 747209, 060 ﺑﻮﺳﻠﻬﺎﻡ x ( on the northern

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To get to the lake follow the signposts to the lake To get More than 200 species of birds have been birds have than 200 species of More The Further north along the coast, 50km 50km along the coast, Further north

side of the lake is useful but has limited is useful but has limited the lake side of opening hours. Plage, Mehdiya road to from the beach 300m past the Cafe Restaurant Belle Vue. is a 3.3km walk on foot, the lake If you’re from the turn-off.

The idyllic fishing village of Moulay Bous- Moulay of The idyllic fishing village by the selham is a tranquil place, protected local saints. two is village The shrines of MOULAY MOULAY BOUSSELHAM 383331; spotted here and many choose to winter or and many choose to winter here spotted or rare – among them a number of nest here the last species. This is one of endangered you can still see large places on earth where marbled ducks, distinguished of numbers around their eyes. Other by the dark patch birds to look out for include the beauti- at dusk), owl (seenful marsh most often and kite coot, black-shouldered the crested flamingo. greater Inland from Mehdiya is the beautiful fresh- Inland from Mehdiya Lac a larger de Sidi Bourhaba, part of water a refuelling wetland reserve. As protected birds migrating be- stop for thousands of tween Europe and sub-Saharan Africa, the the best birdwatching some of provides lake in the country, especially between October place for gentle It’s also a great and March. walking trails hiking, with well-appointed hills around the lake. in the forested Lac de Sidi Bourhaba Lac de Sidi Bourhaba beach, drive north as far as the Musée Dar the Musée as far as north drive beach, Belghazi known down a road and turn left Rabat Bus 28 from as Sidi Bouknadel. or from off, you at the turn Salé will drop walk to the beach. it’s a 2km where from Rabat, beach, is another strip of hdiya Plage are the currents again here but bars, beach busy with It gets for swimmers. dangerous but is deserted in summer for day-trippers trains regular are There the year. of the rest you take from where from Rabat to Kenitra, these buses Both of bus 9 or 15 to Mehdiya. from (Dh4) and grands taxis (Dh5) leave Rue du Souk el-Baladia and the corner of Diouri in Kenitra. Mohammed Ave lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST best) guideis only officiallyrecognised (andbyfarthe about Dh100perhourfortheboat.The where theboatsare moored. topay Expect if youwanderdowntothesmallbeach some guidetraining,are easilyarranged with thelocalboatmen,whohave had around thelake asasideline. Boattrips ocean whilethewomengathershellfish. on fishing–themenfish thelagoonand four of which dependonagriculture, two marsh harriers andperegrine falcons. numerous terns are asare frequently seen, African marsh owl.Shelducks, teals, and 134 Most of thefishermentake tourists There are sixvillages aroundthelake, Favourite monument? What isyourfavourite bird? the catchtocampersorlocalpeople. it wouldbegoodtohave awebsite butI’montheinternet already! OnquietdaysIfishandsell many nicepeople,andIlearnalotfromthemtoo. Myworkisvery wordofmouth.People say over documentaries. theworldcomeandseeme,alotofpeoplewho make Ihave metso How doyoupassyourday? magnificent? They are butterflies.Inever like tire ofseeingthem. mingos. They mustbescared ofafalconormaybetheyare justfollowingthetide. Aren’t they hearthepassing trucks.helped asyoucanactually Butlookupinthesky–alarge flockoffla- now maybe400.The over farmerstake thehabitatsofbird,andnewhighwayhasn’t birds. Wehadthousandsofbirdsandnowitismore hundreds like –before 1000flamingosand Has itchangedalotrecently? Imetmywifecurlew, butafter itbecameextinct there. It’sabeautifulstory,no? to seethem.Iusedgoavillageontheothersideoflagoonspotslender-billed we have 20pairs. They nestinAprilsoweleave themalone,butMayandJuneare agreat time hereit. This birdbecameextinct in1995,sothenIdecidedtolookfortherare marshowl,now In 1990there wasavery rare infinding bird,theslender-billed curlew,andIbecameanexpert How didyougetintobirds? aroundthelagoon,inwinter thembyboat. Itake walking at theUniversity anddecidedtobecomeabirdguide. ofKenitra people InthesummerItake People thenmostlywanted toseeflamingos. In1987Ifinishedstudyingphysicsandchemistry moneytogoschool. touristsinmylittlerowingboatwhenIwas12,socouldmake taking How longhave youlived inMoulayBousselham? HASSAN DALIL know theminArabic, French andEnglish. What isyourfavourite word inthelocal darija (Moroccandialect)? summer wedon’trelax though. Where doyougotorelax? is updated bybirdersfromall over theworld. What isyourfavourite restaurant? eventhe lake, ifthey’ve justhadapicnicandsawflamingos. love courseIlove eatingfish.Of thebirds. Ilove seeing peoplereturning happyfromatripon What doyoulikeaboutthisplace? well protected here. NORTH OFCASABLANCA••MoulayBousselham NORTH Hassan Dalil Ilove thesightoftwo

( x I take aboatoutonthelagoon, orgoforawalkonthebeach.In Itake People camehere towatchbirdssoIlearnedalotfromthematfirst. I take peopleoutevery Itake dayintheseason.Birdwatchersfromall The slender-billed aflamingo. gull.Itschestispinklike 068 434110;guide There are a lot more andless peoplenowthanwhenIstarted, IalwaysgotoCafé Milano. mybirdlogthere, Ikeep which I like thepeaceandquiet,there Ilike isplacetothink here. I Hassan Dalil isanofficialbird guide andfisherman wintering wildfowl. which offers goodviewingof avarietyof about 8kmeastof MoulayBousselham, explore including equipment). also arrange fishingtrips(Dh100perhour, lanora (see opposite ). Theboatmen can Trips canalsobearranged Vil- through the waiters Milanotocallhim. attheCafé askorder totake hisbusiness.Otherwise have knowntopretend been tobehimin peoplerather thanaskforhimasseveral him(on themainroadintotown).Call Milanocan alsobecontacted attheCafé half-day Dh200,plusmotorboatperhrDh100) marabouts, Hardcore birdwatchers mayalsowantto Iwasbornonthelagoon,andstarted Merdja Khaloufa Merdja shrinesofholymen.Weare very Allthenamesofbirds. I , anattractive lake lonelyplanet.com , who ATLANTIC COAST 135 ﺍﻟﻌﺮﺍﺋﺶ Restaurant l’Ocean Restaurant l’Ocean with a terrace and with a terrace

, (evening stroll) in the centre of of (evening stroll) in the centre NORTH Larache •• CASABLANCA OF paseo 078 31 0954, 069 434245) 078 31 0954, 069 All Larachians seem to come out for Larache was occupied by the Spanish for Larache was occupied by the Spanish for x an indoor seating area, servingseatingan indoor area, excellent and paella. tajines fish, couscous, the the fill up restaurants town. The cafés and few most of the 17th century. The port activi- the 17th century. The port most of some danger- because limited of ties were the locals made but offshore, ous sandbars further south. It be- ships for the corsairs pro- the Spanish came the main port of in 1911. Today the whitewashed tectorate the the church, houses with blue doors, the still reveal and bars the hotels market, The Spanish influence. the of strength but as Assilah, town may be as picturesque and has none of visitors far fewer it gets the hustle. LARACHE the other towns on this stretch Larache, like for most of coast, is sleepy and laid-back of in summer when into life the year, bursting The Moroccan tourists come to the beach. town otherwise seescharming visitors. few The new town has some grand Spanish-era particularly around the central architecture, Place de la Libération (the former Plaza de España), while the tiny crumbling medina writing. at the time of was being renovated of Loukos, on the edge the river North of ruins the overgrown town, is the main site, the of site ancient Lixus, the legendary of Hesperides. Gardens of The road down to the seafront is lined to the seafront down The road is lined serving and restaurants with cafés platters to Dh60). (Dh45 grilled fish and tajines of the best is the small One of ( Getting There & Away Moulay Bousselham is about 40km due by public here Larache. To get south of your way to transport you’ll need to make du Rharb, Souk el-Arba the little town of taxis grands frequent are there from where buses (Dh12, and a few (Dh17, 45 minutes) to Moulay Bousselham. You 45 minutes) du Rharb by grand to Souk el-Arba can get or Larache (Dh30, one taxi from Kenitra hour) and Rabat Souk el- (Dh40, 1½ hours). Arba du Rharb also has a train station with Villanora direction. daily trains in either taxi a private from Larachecan arrange to Moulay Bousselham (Dh150, one hour). 037 777226; house rental x

( 037 432543, 061 037 432543, 061 , which sleeps, which far northern end 037 432539; http:// x (

x ( 037 432650; fax 037 432649; d 037 432650; fax 037 432649; d x s/d incl breakfast Dh250/400, with Dh250/400, with s/d incl breakfast ( This B&B, the holiday the holiday This B&B,

037 432071, 064 872008; http://villanora 064 872008; 037 432071, ) A large place that’s aging badly. Another friendly guest house Another friendly guest house x The saving grace of this faded ’70s this faded grace of The saving s ( )

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The friendly owner of Restaurant l’Ocean The friendly owner of La Maison des Oiseaux Hôtel Le Lagon

There are two popular camp sites here. here. two popular camp sites are There tent/car/caravan Dh10/20/30 plus per adult/child Dh12/6) Slightly run-down but beautifully situated. 301067; http://moulay.bousselham.free.fr; half board per half board per 301067; http://moulay.bousselham.free.fr; person Dh350) set in a lovely garden with eight garden simple but set in a lovely beautifully styled traditional rooms. There’s a seminar for visiting school room upstairs can be ar- groups and birding excursions for 2½ hours. for Dh200 to Dh300 ranged The guest house is hidden down a maze into sandy drive lanes to the left as you of or call for directions. around town. Ask a ) can help to arrange right (see hotel is its stunning location overlooking overlooking is its stunning location hotel big, bright the lagoon below. The rooms are updating. need of and clean, but in dire up for that. The makes terrace The large and the swimming is mediocre, restaurant only open in July pool and nightclub are and August. Dh250; seaview Dh350/500). flamants-loisirs.ifrance.com, in French; camp site per in French; flamants-loisirs.ifrance.com, person Dh15, plus per caravan/car/tent Dh50, bungalows Dh240-330; (Sep-May Jun-Aug Dh600-700) Dh300,

home of an English family who fell in love in love who fell family an English home of Morocco, could corner of with this quiet a high Brittany, in on top of be somewhere It’s run glorious ocean views. dune with family a Mohammed, by the Anglophile homy rooms just a few are friend. There you can fall bathroom) where (with shared and crashing waves, asleep to the sound of is servedbreakfast It is pos- on the terrace. advance – ask for sible to order dinner in the the fish. Villanora is at 2km from the main street town, about of and it’s essential Mo- to book in advance. boat trips on the hammed can also organise The same family has just opened Farm lake. Nora (same contact), the only accommoda- Bargha. Merdja tion on the nearby lake Sleeping & Eating & Eating Sleeping Villanora lonelyplanet.com morocco.ifrance.com; Camping Flamants-Loisirs up to six people. During the summer During the summer up to six people. they fill up quickly, so it’s best to months call and reserve in advance. Camping Caravaning International Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST (admission Dh10; often thetiny closed, inaformerMerenidHoused palace,and MUSÉE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE Sights Dh8; ( For internet accesstry and travellers cheques, andhave ATMs. of BlvdMohammed V;mostacceptcash The bankscluster atthenorthernend Information France, hewasburiedhere (see right ). hediedinbay of andalthough Larache streets are againdeserted. chew over andby10pmthe theday’sevents, as thelocalsdrinkcoffee, playcardsand Larache 136 914141; Rue 2 Mars; perhrDh8; 914141; Rue2Mars; Roman times withexplanations inAra- ceramics andutensils and fromPhoenician ruins of Lixus( p138 ). Thedisplaysinclude artefacts, mostlyfromthe nearbyRoman has alimited butinteresting collectionof (50m) Cemetery To Spanish x A LARACHE ve The French writer Jean loved Genet the M oh Atlantic Ocean NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Larache NORTH 039 916884;Ave perhr Mohammed benAbdallah; h am me d Ze

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Estuary Cemetery 6 is not open, ring the bell on the right and is notopen, ringthebell ontheright writer Jean Genet (1910–1986).Ifthegate cemetery isthefinalresting placeof French to visitors. III. Unfortunately, thebuildingisnotopen cation builtbytheSpaniardsunder Philip tress of theStorks),a17th-centuryfortifi- the medina,is 17th century.Southof thesquare, through their first occupationof inthe Larache which wasbuiltbytheSpaniardsduring square, thebustling immediately intoacolonnadedmarket arch onPlace delaLibération.Youcome large, Hispano-Moorish unmistakable Charles Vabove themaindoor. bic andFrench. Look outforthearmsof cobbled disrepair. Head southfromhere totheold of andnowinastate Portuguese serious bibat), a16th-centuryfortress builtbythe ocean are theruinsof the Perched top overlooking onacliff the OLD TOWN Beaches (7km) du Port(1km); To Port(1km); To thewestof town,theoldSpanish Lixus (4km); Restaurant medina hrai etae...... B2 Pharmacie Centrale...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Grands Taxis...... (see17) Buses forLixus&Beaches...... Bus Station...... Restaurant PuertaDelSol...... Restaurant Commercial...... Le SourireSalondeThé...... Pension Amal...... La MaisonHaute...... Hôtel Riad...... Hôtel España...... Ruin oftheKasbah...... Musée Archéologique...... Casbah delaCigogne...... Marnet...... Cyber Space...... Salon deThéTriana...... Balcón Atlantico...... Spanish Consulate...... , through Casbah delaCigogne Casbah 200m 0.1miles 0 0 Zoco delaAlcaiceria Babal-Khemis

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h Out of town Out of 039 913641; Rue de For more sea- For more 061 682420; Place de x (

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039 910110; Rue de Casa- 065 344888; www.lamaison h x ( noon-9pm) x x ( (

h 10am-5pm & 7-11pm) h NORTH Larache •• CASABLANCA OF (a kind of doughnut) stall (a kind of on the main Restaurant du Port For a quick breakfast or ice cream your or ice cream For a quick breakfast Restaurant Commercial La Maison Haute Balcón Atlantico Restaurant Puerta Del Sol cals’ favourite, this basic place on the main cals’ favourite, does a roaring trade in simple soup, square It’s ultra cheap, and fried fish. brochettes every night with happy diners and is packed place for people-watching. a great atmospheric accommodation in Larache, in Larache, atmospheric accommodation Hispano-Moorish this wonderfully restored rooms six charming house of has a choice Traditional Mo- with modern bathrooms. stained-glass roccan decor, bright colours, this place give windows and mosaic floors simplicity, warmth and tradi- of a feeling boasts incred- terrace tion, while the roof square, the ocean and market ible views of or a book a nice corner to read and offers sunbathe. best options are the best options are Overlooking and the nicest spot the beach, or simple breakfast in town for a relaxed this bright,lunch, bustling café has plenty outdoor seatingof and passable pizzas. mains Dh60; Eating Eating and cheerful out in Larache is cheap little places around Place de with plenty of la Libération and the Zoco de la Alcaiceria serving simple but substantial meals. The on in the Spanish influence lingers ros square. la Libération; mains Dh20; of child-friendly activities. The hotel has has hotel The activities. child-friendly of writ- of at the time and character lots of turning it into a talks of were ing there has ten- The hotel hotel. luxury boutique own a pool and its bicycle hire, nis courts, pizzeria. food and a choice of Moroccan dishes, this of food and a choice no-nonsense place is a good bet. It’s popu- than the Restaurantlar but a little quieter Commercial. Salé; mains Dh20-30; blanca; pizza Dh40-60, crepes Dh10-15; blanca; pizza Dh40-60, crepes by the port, but worth the trip, this slightly seafood specialises place in fresh upmarket simply but to perfection. cooked haute.com; 6 Derb ben Thami; r Mar-Jun & Sep-Nov Dh350- ben Thami; r Mar-Jun haute.com; 6 Derb 450, Jul-Sep holidays Dh390-550) & public ) This This ) ai s Dirt cheap, immacu- Dirt cheap, 039 912788; 10 Rue Abdallah ben 039 913195; hotelespana2@yahoo 039 912626; Ave Mohammed ben Mohammed ben 039 912626; Ave x x ( (

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Hôtel España Hôtel Riad Pension Amal Pension

lately kept and extremely friendly, this little and extremely kept lately facili- pension has tiled rooms with shared every year renewed are ties. The mattresses comfortable. A hot very and the beds are to shower is Dh6. The owner, who likes money, is than make ideas more exchange always happy to meet If you new people. to music, he will jump at the chance like out his guitar for an impromptu per- get formance. .fr; 6 Ave Hassan II; s/d/tr/ste Dh220/260/280/350; Hassan II; s/d/tr/ste Dh220/260/280/350; .fr; 6 Ave Yassine; s/d/tr Dh40/80/120) Yassine; Abdallah; Dh239/314; s/d incl breakfast

A relic of colonial times, this once-grand colonial times, this once-grand of A relic to stay place in is now again a great hotel been redecorated. town, as the rooms have The decor is still old-style with dark wood comfortable, furnishings, but the beds are the rooms spotless, and the bathrooms have for rooms higheras the up new fittings. Ask be a problem. can noise from the square The service no breakfast, is friendly. There’s you breakfast will order but the reception the next door and one of from Café Sourire will bring it up. waiters Sleeping Larache has a small but decent selection of is clustered which of accommodation, most the Place de of just south along the streets la Libération. Larache has a small strip of sand below sandLarache below strip of has a small north is 7km the best beach the town but is now Estuary. This strip across the Loukos holiday resort, being developed into a huge with golf course, severalPort Lixus, resort To get marina. villas and a luxury hotels, hourly bus 4 (Dh5, June to the take there season, August). Out of bus 5 will drop Lixus (Dh5), you at the turn-off just before to the beach. it’s a 3km walk from where the Casbah from opposite Both buses leave de la Cigogne. BEACHES BEACHES the caretaker will let you in. A small tip is small tip you in. A will let the caretaker grave. you to the showing for expected lonelyplanet.com grand old 19th-century mansion, which grand old 19th-century mansion, which to the DuchesseGuise de belonged when she was exiled from France, is set in land- the centre scaped gardens just south of comfortable rooms and plenty and offers Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST habited byasun-worshipping peoplewith Lixus suggest thatthesite wasoriginally in- Megalithic stones foundinthevicinityof History ary are theRomanruinsof onahill Set overlooking theLoukkosEstu- LIXUS (Dh25) andTangier (Dh40). sionally toAssilah (Dh30),Soukel-Arba el-Kebir toKsar station (Dh12)andocca- are generally more frequent. Tetouan (Dh20)andKenitra (Dh30),and destinations aswellOuezzane(Dh20), hours); andAgadir (Dh225,12hours). (Dh310) viaMarrakesh (Dh160,eight Tangier (Dh30,2½hours, fourdaily);Tiznit three daily)viaMeknès (Dh60,three hours); (Dh70, three hours); Fez (Dh80,fourhours, via Kenitra (Dh40,twohours) andRabat blanca (Dh90,fourhours, three daily) on RueduCaire. issouthofThe busstation thetowncentre &Away There Getting ( 138 Salon deThé summer, or,justoff thesquare, decentpizza(Dh26toDh40)in also serves the site isusuallysketchy. not really and theirknowledge necessary of asaguide, it’s locals mayoffer theirservices local youths. someunemployed Although some readers have reported beinghassledby the oddgoatquietlygrazing,butbeware that your onlycompanionswillbethe wind and outside thesummermonths, andinwinter to wanderaround.Few visitors make ithere city oncewas. picture this just howgrandandimportant andwithalittleimaginationyoucan tas of Lixusgive of italingering gravi- sense (see p266 ), thelocation,sizeandserenity extensive oraswellexcavated asVolubilis overgrown, are impressive. notas Although badlydamagedvisible ruins,though and excavatedancient cityhasbeen butthe the country.Onlyaboutaquarter of the that isoneof theoldestinhabited placesin free) x Grands taxis runfromoutsidethebus Grands taxis alsocoverCheaper non-CTM buses these toCasa- includeservices CTM buses The site is not enclosed, soyou’reThe site isnotenclosed, atliberty , arathermysterious andneglected site NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Lixus NORTH 039 500913;Ave MohammedbenAbdallah)

(Ave HassanII; h 6am-10pm) Lixus ﺍﻻﻭﻛﻮﺱ Le Sourire Le Sourire . (admission , which Lixus known toMuslimsasTuchummus. thesite became in the5thcentury.Later, ofcollapse the Roman Empire sometime and wasabandonedcompletely withthe the Romanswithdrew fromNorthAfrica, phitheatres. of intheempire’s wildanimalsforuse am- merchants alsogrew rich fromtheexport and exports soonchanged olives, tosalt, wine had entered theRoman Empire. Itsprimary in gold,ivoryandslaves and,byAD 42, Lixus remained atradingpost,principally Atlantic coloniesfell totheCarthaginians. mous Moroccantangerines. golden applesmaywellhave thefa- been ing thepenultimate of his12labours. The the Gardenof Hesperides, thuscomplet- that Hercules picked thegoldenapplesof According toPlinytheElder,itwashere up thecolonyLikshere inabout1000BC. areas prehistory set untilthePhoenicians littlemoreHowever, isknownaboutthe knowledge of astronomyandmathematics. (3km) To Beach (4km) To Larache LIXUS The colonyatLixusrapidlydeclinedas thePhoenician In the6thcenturyBC garum (anaromaticfishpaste) andits Factories Garum Temple Grand Citadel Oratory Main Gate

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R d (Sea God) of Oceanus Mosaic Amphitheatre Loukkos Old Port To Tangier Oued Site of (233km) Public Baths ATLANTIC COAST 139 NORTH•• Assilah OF CASABLANCA Assilah was recaptured by Moulay Ismail was recaptured Assilah As Christianity conquered the forces of the forces of Christianity conquered As The best time to visit is in spring or au- The town’s mayor lives in the pictur- in the mayor lives The town’s in 1691. In the 19th century, continuing in 1691. In the 19th century, continuing Islam on the Iberian peninsula in the 14th the knock- felt and 15th centuries, Assilah Portuguese sent 477 on effects. 1471 the In the port ships with 30,000 men, captured and then built the walls that still surround the medina, a trading post on their famous In 1578, King across Africa. gold route on Dom Sebastian Portugal embarked of was He crusade from Assilah. an ill-fated killed, and Portugal (and its Moroccan pos- sessions) the Span- passed hands of into the long time. for a very ish, who remained tumn when the weather is still pleasant but gone. the crowds are history as a has had a turbulent Assilah as port since it began life small, but strategic the Carthaginian Zilis. During settlement of Carthage, the people backed the Punic Wars to the Romans, the fell and when the region and replaced shipped to Spain locals were was with Iberians. From then on, Assilah with the Spanish and their inexorably linked numerous battles for territory. esque medina and has vowed to make it it make and has vowed to esque medina medina Switzerland. The old as clean as has been seriously last few in the gentrified been houses have more and as more years bought by affluent Euro- Moroccans and narrow streets Its peans, mainly Spanish. indeed and a bit empty. squeaky clean are now as as expensive Flats and houses are The town is sleepy for most in Marrakesh. the but in the summer months the year, of 12,000 to 110,000, population grows from as descend here, when Moroccan families small town along the coast. The elsewhere beaches the over-run, is then completely touts come out in force. and the packed are less touts are Outside the summer months, around, waiting for imposing, but they are bus station,tourists at the train or offer- accommodation in the ing drugs and cheap in the absent foreigners holiday homes of ). p140 medina (see History With a good selection of budget hotels and and hotels budget a good selectionWith of the town art scene, and a small restaurants, stop on the travel- a favourite has become Atlantic coast. the North ler’s trail of

ﺃﺻﻴﻼ public baths (the Greek (the Greek Oceanus . The amphitheatre pro- . The amphitheatre factories, where fish was salted was fish factories, where

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Most mosaics from the site were removed removed Most mosaics were site from the Continue up the path to the main assem-Continue up the path to

The gorgeous whitewashed resort town of town of resort whitewashed gorgeous The Is- on a Greek somewhere like feels Assilah land, but the tapas paella on the Spanish and and the wrought- menus in the restaurants but housesiron windows on the white are was Spanish that the town reminders a few by Arriving here for a long time. territory is an easier and from Spain, Assilah ferry introduction to Mo- hassle-free more much Tangier. rocco than its northern neighbour ASSILAH

Getting There & Away Getting There & Away of 4.5km north Lixus is approximately there To get Larache on the road to Tangier. Casbah bus 4 or 5 from outside the take de la Cigogne (Dh4). A petit taxi costs about Dh20 one way. Sights Sights rail- green is in the to Lixus gate The main road. the Larache–Tangier ings that border the remains to the left are Inside the railings of the gravel produced. A paste and the prized a past the hill from the gate path leads up to the minor ruins number of and the surrounding views of vides impressive a wonderful place countryside and makes just to sit and relax. now on display at the archaeology and are ). The Grand p197 (see museum in Tetouan and Mars mosaics depicting Helios, Temple with Rhea, and Venus Graces, the three The only remaining all there. Adonis are mosaic at Lixus is that of lonelyplanet.com Seait’s been God). Unfortunately, exposed to local vandalism, both to the elements and so is in rough shape. crest straddle the which buildings, bly of incredible are there the hill. From here of the Loukos Estuary and views down over salt civic buildings, ad- fields below. The and original city ram- ditional public baths while to the south is the here, parts are closelystriking citadel, packed a flurry of ruins standing starkAl- against the sky. in an the antiquities are though most of be able decay, you should advanced state of and associated out the main temple to make public baths sanctuaries, an oratory, more the city walls. of and the remains ATLANTIC COAST Assilah lers cheques andhave ATMs. both of which willchange cashandtravel- including BMCE Populaire, andBanque Place Mohammed Viscrowdedwithbanks, Information of itsprotectorate from1911until1956. European powers. SpainmadeAssilah part becomingthebaneofsilah ashisbase, the As-in the20thcentury,Er-Raissouli used Early inthewildRifMountains. raised ever p142 ), oneof themostcolourfulbandits most famousrenegade wasEr-Raissouli (see theirnaviessend tobombardthetown.Its piracy prompted AustriaandthenSpainto 140 Net Lookout ASSILAH Internet access isavailable at

13 NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Assilah NORTH (Ave HassanII;perhrDh8; Atlantic Internationales...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Centre deHassanIIRencontres C3 BMCE (ATM)...... Koubba ofSidiMamsur& Palais deRaissouli...... Galerie Hakim...... Aplanos Gallery...... Raweya Internet...... Pharmacie L'Océan...... MujaheddinGraveyard...... El-Khamra Tower...... Pyramide Net...... Pharmacie Loukili...... Banque Populaire(ATM)...... Church ofStBartolomé...... Cannons...... Ocean Beach (3km) To Paradise Medina Mosque 14 7 15 12 Mosque Guennoun R h

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, 141 and (central 061 998030; Rue 061 998030; Rue 039 418896, 061 , a renovated , a renovated x x ( (

or for temporary or for temporary , built by Spanish

, also known as the marché central (International Cultural Cultural (International moussem El-Khamra Tower Galerie Hakim Aplanos gallery moussem Palais de RaissouliPalais 8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm, to 8pm summer) 8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm, with her Moroccan husband Ahmed husband Ahmed with her Moroccan NORTH•• Assilah OF CASABLANCA Church of San Bartolome h 039 417065; [email protected]; admission The Belgian painter Anne-Judith Van Loock Loock Belgian Anne-Judith Van painter The main exhibition space in town is the The main exhibition space Palais de Culture (Palace of Culture) on the Culture) of (Palace de Culture Palais seaside built in 1909 the medina, was of ) and p142 text, (seeby Er-Raissouli boxed still stands to the sumptu- as a testament his power. height he led at the of ous life but is only It has been beautifully restored, open during the exhibitions, although if you can find the him to persuade may be able you caretaker to let you in. The striking building includes room with a glass-fronted a main reception Er- the sea, from where overlooking terrace to Raissouli murderers forced convicted onto the rocks 30m jump to their deaths below. 799535; [email protected]; 14 Place Sidi ben Issa) Benraadiya, where foreign and local artists and local Benraadiya, foreign where Ghaïlan can exhibit. Zaïlachi artist Hakim the started walls. This centre just inside the medina housein a beautiful medina displays a re- painting international volving exhibition of in its gallery (and at times, and sculpture in the nearby Portuguese on Place Abdellah fortification Guennoun). MOUSSEM In- II des Rencontres The Centre Hassan is the main focus for the ternationales annual Tijara) Tijara) NEW TOWN Place the small new town is of The centre is the square Northwest of V. Mohammed the Fransiscans, in a typical colonial Moorish in Mo- churches the few It is one of style. rocco allowed to ring the bells for Sunday Nearby is the Mass. market). created the created x free; now made a name in the contemporary- in the a name now made Abdelilah late them the among art world, Mo- Jbari, Elina Atencio, Bououd, Brahim hamed Lhaloui the and several of members family. Mesnani Centre Hassan II Rencontres de Internationales exhibits mainly young Moroccan artists. exhibits mainly young Bab leads (which is (which just inside Bab al-Kasaba old cannons (International Cul- (International . (closed to non-Muslims) moussem Koubba of Sidi Mamsur Great Mosque on Avenue Hassan II, is topped by Hassan on Avenue

The medina and ramparts have been been have The medina and ramparts The Access to the ramparts is limited.

The southern entrance to the medina, With more than 50 resident artists, five artists, five than 50 resident more With galleries and several artist studios and as is renowned exhibition spaces, Assilah arts. It all started in 1978 when a city of to invited several Moroccan artists were and to hold workshops for local children paint some walls in the medina as part of the town’s ART GALLERIES ART GALLERIES celebrations. Several Zaïla-tural Festival) have these children artists and some of chi largely restored in recent years and the the and years in recent restored largely lined by white- tranquil narrow streets well worth a wander. washed houses are left work has Although the restoration sanitised,the medina much the ornate wrought-iron window guards and colour- year during the each ful murals (painted ) right see Cultural Festival, International quality. Craftsmen photogenic it a very give opened workshops along and artists have in to passers-by and invite the main streets see them work. bastion is the best spot for southwestern ocean and is a popular the views over a peek into spot at sunset. It also offers the nearby RAMPARTS & MEDINA MEDINA & RAMPARTS is sur- medina residential largely Assilah’s the sturdy stone fortifications rounded by built by the Portuguese in the 15th century that by palms, and it is these walls, flanked become the town’s landmark. have Sights & Activities Sights & Activities the touts offer rooms in the holiday homes holiday homes in the rooms offer the touts worse, or a sleeping absent foreigners, of housemat in a friend’s at in the medina prices. sumptuous otherwise closed to non-Muslims) and the Mujaheddin Graveyard lonelyplanet.com to the the medina’s seaward wall, but they are cutthe medina’s seaward wall, but they are from the walkway below and can only beoff distance. The seen from a Homar Portuguese the much-eroded royal coat of a few are arms. There and the Centre Hassan II des Rencontres II des Rencontres and the Centre Hassan The medina is busiest on Internationales. day. main market Assilah’s Thursdays, ATLANTIC COAST tresses onthefloor. Some alsooffer rooms people onthin mat- upto seven sleeping dina forabout Dh75.It’susuallyalarge room trains offer basicaccommodationintheme- or part of the buses town. Toutsmeeting ing accommodationoptions,allin thenew Assilah hasachoice of decentbutuninspir- Sleeping luxury hotels. and several town withamarina,golfcourse resort, isplannedtoopen in2010southof in summer. Assilah Marina, an entire new horse-drawn carriages thatplythisroute coast or,alternatively, hopononeof the walkalongthe up toitsname. It’sapleasant a gorgeous, live pristinespotthatreally does and quiethead3kmsouthto less appealinginsummer. Formore peace fromthenearbyroadmakenoise itmuch thecrowdsand inlowseason, pleasant of andalthough a widesweep goldensand and hotels, stretches northfromtown.It’s Assilah’s mainbeach, flanked bycampsites BEACHES towards theendof thefestival. (musket-firing cavalry charge) takes place festival, includingaMoroccan ish andIslamicslant.Athree-day horse themonthwithastrongSpan- throughout areconcerts, exhibitionsandevents held workshops andpublicartdemonstrations, tators descenduponthetown.Numerous sicians, performers of andthousands spec- Festival) heldinAugust,whenartists,mu- 142 accused him of being too closely linked withtheSpanish. accused himofbeingtoocloselylinked wreak hinterland rebel havocintheRif until1925,whentheRif Abdal-Krimarrested himand mountains, butEr-Raissouli often usedthemagainsthisbenefactors. sway over orderinthe tribesandtheSpanishfundedhisarmsinhopeofkeeping theRif ways,amassinggreatwith hiswicked wealthinwhatever wayhecould.Heheldconsiderable litical positions,includinggovernor andlater ofAssilah Tangier. However, Er-Raissouli continued somed in1904forUS$70,000. various luminariestoransom,includingGreek-American billionaire IonPerdicaris, whowasran- as amercilessmurderer, andfeared rightacrosstheregion. andwassoonrenowned Mountainsbutsawnoprobleminbumpingoffunwillingvictims the Rif mostlegendaryinhabitants. life wasoneofAssilah’s (or Raisuni) Hestarted asapettycrookin Feared andgeneraltroublemaker, bandit,kidnapper Moulay AhmedbenMohammeder-Raissouli RASCALLY ER-RAISSOULI NORTH OFCASABLANCA••Assilah NORTH The Spaniardseventually after forcedEr-Raissouli tofleeAssilah WWI,buthecontinuedto In anattempt tocontroltheunrulyoutlaw,consecutive sultansappointed himtovariouspo- Westerners.Internationally, Er-Raissouli wasbestknownforkidnapping Heandhisbandheld Paradise Beach fantasia ,

Tabit; dlow/highseasonDh100/200) nice roof terrace overlooking themedina. shared facilitiesare ancientbutthere’s a are larger ifabitnoisier. andbrighter, The less. Gofortheroomsinfront which have allare better days,though spot- seen laka, andafriendlywelcome. Therooms good centrallocation,nexttothePlace Zel- s/d/tr Dh98/136/204,hotshowersDh5) hotels. Assilah hasalimited choice of budget BUDGET to bookwellinadvance. town isfloodedwithvisitors soit’sadvisable the andJulytoSeptember), week (Easter there are season manyscams. Duringhigh careful whenrenting however touts: through prices.Be B&Bsatmuchin unofficial higher to date onwhat’shappening intown. The Moroccans whoare very welcomingand up hotel inaquietsidestreet, runbyyoung all newandscrubbedtilltheygleam. The sparklingshared toiletsandshowers are so itmaybeworthchecking more thanone. Somehavewell maintained. tinywindows, are fairlyspartan, and though comfortable adorn theentrance,andcompactrooms, mosphere. Patterned tilesand potted plants open courtyard,withavery Moroccanat- hotel offers aroundan simpleroomsset budget option,thissmall,immaculately kept Dh80/120, Jul&Aug Dh100/180) Hôtel BelleVue Hôtel Hôtel Sahara Hôtel Hôtel Marhaba Hôtel

( Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

x

( ( x x 039 417185;9RuedeTarfaya; 039 417144; Rue Zellaka; s/d 039 417144;RueZellaka; 039 417747;RueHassan ben This placehasa Afriendly,small Byfarthebest lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST

143 el-Baraka 039 416633; 26 If the Sym- Offers similar Offers x ( 039 417815; 14 Rue Mou- 039 417497; 14 Rue Imam al- x (

071 043277; Ave Hassan II; mains 071 043277; Ave x (

x ( (52 Ave Mohammed V)(52 Ave

(Place Abdellah Guennoun; mains Dh30- Generally spacious and clean During summer, this French-style During summer, this French-style Although there’s little to choose little be- Although there’s NORTH•• Assilah OF CASABLANCA There are some wonderful three- and three- some wonderful are There Miguel www.elbaraka 075 722323, Larbi 068 092187; . The main attraction of this simple lit- The main attraction of ) Al-Madina La Symphonie des Douceurs II Restaurant Yali Restaurant Yali Mounia Apartments Zaki Apartments Café Tanger x Dh25-50) Place Zellaka) tween them, this is one of the most popu- tween them, this is one of the along restaurants the string of lar of medina walls. It serves up a good selection fish, seafoodof and traditional Moroccan staples. tle café in the medina is its sunny seating El-Kamra in front of in the square area place to sip a coffee, It’s a great Tower. a snack from the simple, Moroccan have squeezed menu or drink a delicious freshly juice. orange accommodation to Mounia Apartments. accommodation to Mounia 45) Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking clustered restaurants has a string of Assilah the medina and along around Bab Kasaba a few are II. There Hassan walls on Ave options on Rue Ahmed M’dem other cheap V. near the banks on Place Mohammed HOUSES & APARTMENTS & APARTMENTS HOUSES medina Assilah’s in properties of A host and wealthy been bought by foreigners have as holiday and reconstructed Moroccans the year it is possi- any time of homes. At or house a flat or in the medina ble to rent through the agency near the beach ( .net phonie is too flashy for you, head for this the pre- where the square, café north of suck sip coffee, dominantly male clientele the world. over their teeth and watch four-bedroom houses available with stun- houses available four-bedroom comforts you are ning decor and all the from about to want. Prices range likely Dh4000 per week in low season to about Dh15,000 per weekin high season. flats, but there are only basic kitchen facili- kitchen only basic are flats, but there ties and well-worn furnishings. Assili; 2-/4-/7-person apt Dh300/450/550) patisserie is the best place for breakfast or an patisserie for breakfast is the best place sugar fix. Devourafternoon and ice pastries civilised surroundings; for the in very cream available. the year only drinks are of rest lay Hassan ben el-Mehdi; 2-/4-person apt Dh250/350, Jul & Aug Dh450/600)

039 416074; You’ll get You’ll get x (

The only accom- Packed out in sum- Packed ) 039 417390; www.hotelmansour 039 416717; e-elhaddad@menara 039 417069; fax 039 417098; 10 039 417069; fax 039 417098; 10 x x ( ( x (

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Hôtel de la Luna Patio Hôtel Azayla Hôtel Zelis o Ave Mansour Eddahabi;Ave s/d/tr Dh300/400/550, Jul-Sep Dh400/500/650; mer and deserted the rest of the year, this big of mer and deserted the rest has 65 comfortable,holiday hotel modern textiles, rooms with funky blue and white TV You can eat in the tradi- and fridge. with low seatingtional Moroccan restaurant cafeteria- and tables, or the characterless The pool is fine and there’s style alternative. a gym, cyber a games room for children, café (Dh10 per hour) and a bar. Big, bright, well equipped, the comfy and bathrooms a good deal. The are rooms here great with new, the decor is tasteful are Moroccans by Morocco and of photographs the owner, and the giant windows bathe the rooms include rooms in light. The larger up to three where a spacious seating area people could easily sleep. The place may but the stafflack local character, is friendly, helpful and reliable. a hint of traditional character in the tiled traditional character a hint of northeast hotel, at this small public areas fairly but the bedrooms are the centre, of and tiny bathrooms. bland with faded decor the price, but it’s It’s still a good deal for with balcony and worth asking for a room sea view. modation option in Assilah with any local modation option in Assilah Spanish-run place is this intimate, character secluded behind an unassuming door on the main drag. The simple, rustic rooms have and tiled blankets woven wooden furniture, leafy set a lovely around bathrooms and are popular, so book ahead. It’s very patio. .ma; 20 Rue ibn Rochd; s/d Dh300/380, Jul-Sep Dh390/480) 12 Place Zellaka; s/d Dh300/450) Hôtel Mansour MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END .fr.fm; 56 Ave Mohammed V; s/d Dh180/220) 56 Ave .fr.fm; rooms have all recently been redecorated; been redecorated; recently all have rooms artists. by local painted entirely are some good and everything is are The mattresses the shared including kept, immaculately own bath- their rooms have few facilities. A and there extra) and balconies, room (Dh50 four pleasant per apartments (Dh100 are and a sit- two double rooms with person), place is a great terrace The rooftop ting area. It’s particu- for an eveningrelax. drink or to travellers. larly popular with Spanish lonelyplanet.com Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST food doesn’t entirelyfood doesn’t live uptoit. make itamore refined atmosphere, butthe andsoftfrom Spain,lowlighting music hamimported Moroccan wine,pata-negra fresh topsthebill.Spanish and seafood moreslightly formaldiningoption,where lure inthepunters fromthestreet atthis provides thebestof bothworlds. Thedeliciousfish tajine fish andseafood. Moroccan dishesaswelltheubiquitous this restaurant offers achoice of traditional formal andmore variedthanitsneighbours, terrace. Thepaellaisdelicioustoo. roccan roséwineonthelarge andbreezy withaglassof crispMo- barnacles, served turous menuof shrimpand octopus,eels, for succulentgrilledfish oramore adven- this smallrestaurant opposite thebeach. Go dishes andfishytapa airport is only26kmnorth of here, sotak- Ismail, across fromthemosque. Tangier’s (Dh15) departwhen fullfromAve Moulay toTangierGrands taxis (Dh20) andLarache TAXI Gate), neartheport. (Sea al-Baha Dh15 per24hour)outsideBab There isguardedparking(Dh10overnight, CAR available.there’s aseat 8pm. Justwaituntilabuspullsinandhope from6.30amto half-hour, every roughly advance astheytend tofillupinTangier. in buses a goodideatobooklongdistance one hour)andFez (Dh60,4½hours). It’s kesh (Dh130,ninehours), Tangier (Dh10, (Dh60,3½hours), Marra-including Rabat vate buscompanies offer variousservices really stopinAssilah anymore. pri- Several wasbuilt,CTM doesn’t Since thehighway Moulay IsmailandtheTanger-Rabat Rd. isonthecorneroftiny busstation Ave good busconnectionstomosttowns.The Assilah is46kmsouthof Tangier andhas BUS &Away There Getting mainsDh40-80) lay Hassanbenel-Mehdi; 144 8 Place Zellaka; mainsDh60-80) 8 PlaceZellaka; san ben el-Mehdi; mainsDh55-80) san benel-Mehdi; Restaurant delaPlace Restaurant Casa García Casa Restaurante Oceano Casa Pepe OceanoCasa Restaurante Buses toTangierBuses leave andCasablanca SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••El-Jadida

( x 039 417465;51RueMoulayHas- s are thespeciality at ( x Black-tiedwaiters Spanish-stylefish 039 417326;7Ave Mou-

Friendly, less ( x 039 417395; off theroadtoTangier.off village of a visittothelively Sunday market inthe directions or hire aguide inthevillage. tofindsoyoumaywantaskfor difficult track6kmnorthtothesite.sealed Itcanbe village un- andfollowapoorlymaintained, main Tangier Veer road. toRabat leftinthe R417,which brancheshighway the eastoff lage of SouqTninedeSidiel-Yamani, off asturdyvehicle.need Head forthevil- southeast of Assilah. Toget there you’ll known as stone reaches andis about5.5minheight by thedesolationof itslocation.The tallest impressive, itsstrange presence heightened have broken, fallenorbeen thecircleisstill manyofburial mound.Although thestones tohavethought originallysurroundeda consistingofan ellipse) about175stones, site consists of alarge stonecircle(actually if you’ve gottimetospare. Theprehistoric tripfromAssilahan interesting half-day The mysterious AROUND ASSILAH may wanttobuyyourticket inadvance. originates (andfillsup)inTangier, soyou rakesh (Dh174,ninehours), butthistrain One overnight direct traingoes toMar- and sixdailytoTangier (Dh14,45minutes). three hours) andFez (Dh81,fourhours) (Dh101, 4½hours), onetoMeknès (Dh66, (Dh77,3½hours) andCasablanca Rabat Homar.and Bab Three trainsrundailyto drops passengers atPlaceMohammed V but abus(Dh5)generally trainsand meets is2kmnorthofThe trainstation Assilah, TRAIN hammed V. Tangier. isatPlaceMo- stand Thepetit-taxi you spendingalotof timeandenergy in fromAssilahing ataxi (Dh250)maysave LJDD cans soit isperhapsnot surprising thatit change Europeans andMoroc- between El- Jadida owesitsexistence totheex- pop 144,000 EL-JADIDA SOUTH OFCASABLANCA The stonecircleisabout 25km(byroad) Another interesting tripfromAssilah is Had Gharbia El-Uted Monoliths ofM’Soura (ThePointer). , 16kmnorthof town lonelyplanet.com ﺍﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪﺓ make ATLANTIC COAST 145 C4 B4 B2 B2 B2 B2 C2 B2 A3 B5 A3 C5 B4 C3 B3 A3 A2 A2 B3 B4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 Parc

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o Abdalkrim e M Av To Sidi Bouzid (5km); To Moulay Abdallah (11km); Oualidia (76km); Safi (142km) (Coastal Route) EL-JADIDA To Sidi Bouzid (5km); To Oualidia (76km); Safi (157km) El Jadida lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST lost outto SafiandCasablanca. and abeach resort, but its portgradually the townbecame anadministrative centre in thecity.During theFrench Protectorate, an attitudeof easytolerance wasestablished Jews mixed withthegeneral populaceand there wasno rior, andunlike mostotherMoroccancities, nity soongrew rich ontradewiththeinte- One’ inArabic. and renamed thetownAl-Jadida, ‘theNew of theJews of AzemmourinoldMazagan, Abdwhen Sultan er-Rahman resettled some mained aruinuntiltheearly19thcentury to live re- inthenewtownandcitadel leaving. Mostof preferred thenewsettlers blewupmostofPortuguese thefortbefore zagan followingasiege in1769,butthe Mohammed benAbdallah gotholdof Ma- Sidi tradingpost.Sultan most important which intothecountry’s soon developed itMazagan,on thiscoastandbaptised builtafortressIn 1506thePortuguese History of life. will begiven anew,ifvery different, lease old townof El-Jadida inthenextfew years resortcasino, spasandseveral hotels. The golfcourses,which a willincludeseveral ism project isontheway,calledMazagan, geous stretch of beach, anewmegatour- facelift. Justnorthof thetown,onagor- arethe crumblinghouses beinggiven a ing aboutaregeneration of thetown,as ing theoldcolonialchurch. Thisisbring- property intheoldwalledtown,includ- or two,foreigners have buyingup started ing itsboulevards. flocking toitsbeautifulbeaches andstroll- disturbed onlybythecrowdsof Moroccans of theyearEl-Jadida isaquietbackwater, rambling alleysandramparts.Formuch tegrity of thepicturesque town’s Portuguese of investment thein- hashelpedmaintain Heritage byUnescoin2004.Alack status geous medina,which wasgranted World butgor- isasleepy as theCitéPortugaise, the Africancoast.Theirtown,nowknown Mazagan, toprotect theirshipsfollowing for foreigners. is currently beingtransformedbothbyand 146 The large andinfluentialJewish commu- This alllookstochange. Inthelastyear builtaporthere,The Portuguese called SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••El-Jadida mellah (Jewish quarter); the rarity in Morocco – it’s actually knowledgeableandhelpful. inMorocco–it’sactually rarity officeisa 12.30pm &3-6.30pm,closedWed)Thistourist Behind thetheatre. Mohammed V. Clinique LesPalmiers MEDICAL SERVICES @Kiltec hammed VI. There are internet cafésonAve several Mo- ACCESSINTERNET post office centre of townwhich have ATMs. The There are numerousbankslocated inthe Information Marrakesh road. isanother3kmfurthersouthonthe station Ave Mohammed V,andEl-Jadida’s train short walktothenorth. andthemainmarketPortugaise area liea hotels. TheCité andseveral tourist office med V,hometothepostoffice, banks, location onthepromontory.) incorrectly, thisisonlyduetothecity’s themapappears(Although tobeorientated promontory juttingnorthintotheAtlantic. El-Jadida sitsontheeastern of coast alarge Orientation and almostnextdoor,the Church oftheAssumption diately ontheleftisPortuguese-built Rue Mohammed Ahchemi Imme- Bahbai. Mohammed benAbdallah and leadsinto Place parts. Themainentranceisjust off twisting streets, surroundedbyochre ram- city),isacompactmazeof(Portuguese El-Jadida’s the mainsight, Sights &Activities Syndicat d’Initiative TOURIST OFFICE Night Pharmacy Dh6; h admissionDh10; tern; RueMohammed AhchemiBahbai; blanca) Twenty-four-houremergencyservice. shops isthe which originallyacted asalighthouse. with auniquepentagonal-shape minaret, The bus station isabout 1kmsouthdown The busstation The town’sfocalpointisPlaceMoham- On themainstreet pastthesouvenir 9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm) h ( 9am-11pm, closed Fri lunchforprayer). 9am-11pm, closedFri x

( 023 350487;1stfl,62PlaceHansali;perhr h Citerne Portugaise Citerne (offAve MohammedVI; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) (33 PlaceMohammedV; ( x , avast, vaulted cis- , closed tothepublic, , closed 023 393939; Rte deCasa- 023 393939;Rte Grande Mosquée lonelyplanet.com Cité Portugaise

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ATLANTIC COAST A ) 147 ai This large This large The rooms are The rooms are 023 23351645, 061 023 23351645, 061 ) x a (

(lime plaster) bathrooms (lime plaster) 023 341100; 108 Ave Mohammed V; Mohammed Ave 023 341100; 108 023 350137; 6 Derb el-Hajjar; www 023 350137; 6 Derb el-Hajjar; Fatima fell in love with this in love fell Fatima x ) 023 344423; www.villa-david.com; 4 Ave 4 Ave 023 344423; www.villa-david.com; ( x

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SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• El-Jadida El-Jadida •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH La Villa Hôtel Royal o s/d Dh100/140, with bathroom Dh140/250) s/d Dh100/140, wheat field overlooking the ocean and town wheat field overlooking while out cycling, and decided to build a it house with a vast garden, where lovely guests. and receive would be good to live at guests feel is done to make Everything and spa- but stylish simple ease, in the five in a contemporary cious rooms, decorated Guests can useMoroccan style. the gar- graze, cows and a donkey a few den, where and the bright dining room. Dinner can with in advance, and is cooked be ordered set around the courtyard and on the roof set around the courtyard and on the roof welcoming atmospheric this of terrace 19th-century guest house in the located decorated rooms are The large medina. til- with lots of in a warm Moroccan style homy. very and feel ing and local textiles, if you stay board is obligatory more Half than a week. The communal bathrooms spotless. are 495411; www.dar-al-manar.com; off the road to Casablanca; 495411; www.dar-al-manar.com; r Dh700/900; MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END Le Mazagao covered courtyard. Only the rooms on the 1st rooms on Only the courtyard. covered You’ll have bathrooms. en-suite have floor use for hot shower downstairs the communal from is well signposted hotel The showers. Rue ben Tachfine. .lemazagaocom; s/d Dh484/615; .lemazagaocom; s/d Dh484/615; Moulay Abdelhafid; r Dh700-900, ste Dh1100; hotel has big, bright rooms with cheap fur- bright has big, rooms with cheap hotel separated showers retro-fitted nishings and glass panelling. of from your bed by a sheet first. so check Quality and comfort varies, colourful tiling and have The public areas bar courtyard that becomes a lively a lovely at night. charming contemporary-style hotel in an old in an old hotel contemporary-style charming and vegeta- villa, built using local materials tion, is just outside the old city and run by set around a The rooms are two Frenchmen. lights courtyard. Stylish neon lead you white plasma screens, and rooms have upstairs, and wi-fi and floors. The effect is very Zen The effect is very and floors. than rather on the roof is a little bar There high tech. city, and the old with spectacular views over in town servingthe best restaurant inventive cuisine. French-Moroccan The best of , where local , where (southeast cor- , the original sea gate (northeast corner), (northeast corner), 023 373921; 47 Rue Moulay stion is the abandoned , northeast of town, use , northeast of x ( 023 348067; set menus from Dh140)

to the north and south of to the north and south of x communal bakeries Hauzia ( . Bastion de L’Ange , 5km southwest of El-Jadida, is a El-Jadida, , 5km southwest of (originally the old prison) with Porte de la Mer beaches

Othello To the right of the seaTo the right a ramp leads of gate, The Local bus 2 runs from El-Jadida to Sidi Local bus 2 runs from El-Jadida Further down the street are the ramparts are the street Further down

to be pleasant, but the Mazagan mega-resort mega-resort to be pleasant, Mazagan but the research. of at the time was being built here Sidi Bouzid and surfers. popular spot with sunbathers Le Requin Blue where ships unloaded their cargo and from cargo ships unloaded their where the Portuguese To the finally departed. where is one through gate, the archway, the left of the town’s of to be cooked. women bring their bread (open 9am to up to the windy ramparts 6pm) and ner), an excellent vantage point with views point with views ner), an excellent vantage and port. the new town out to sea and over to the left to reach Walk along the ramparts Bastion de St Sebastian cem- you can seefrom where the old Jewish Next to the ba etery. synagogue David. its Star of enjoyable out fairly clean and safe, town are season, in July and August. of but packed at The beach Ahmed Tahiri; s/d Dh95/130, hot shower Dh5) Ahmed Tahiri; the cheapies, this friendly, good-value hotel this friendly, good-value the cheapies, in a traditional house in the medina has comfortable but compact rooms around a BUDGET Hôtel de Bordeaux

A few new hotels near the Cité Portugaise new hotels A few a nice option to spend a El-Jadida make in the new town days. The hotels couple of less modern and comfortable but have are writing, a group time of At the character. near was under construction new hotels of beach. Hauzia Sleeping overlooking the beach in Sidi Bouzid serves beach the overlooking excellent fish. Bouzid (Dh3) every hour. with the tern lit by a single shaft of light. spec- The of a single shaft lit by tern tacularly film with a thin spot, tranquil a mirror on the floor reflecting water of and elegant ceiling the vaulted of image originally usedcolumns, was collect to famous as the eerie It is location for water. Welles’ riot scene in Orson the dramatic 1954 lonelyplanet.com Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST Mohammed V. minute walkfrom thecentre onAve Jadida; mainsDh60-80; mixed fishplatterDh25-30) feeling underanypressure. woodwork orchat tothelocalswithout kind of jointwhere youcanblendintothe or aquietcoffee, the Royaleisanold-style joys – it’s licensed. joys –it’slicensed. spotforwomenand–joyofcomfortable mosphere ispretty mellowmakingita cooked simply but well.Theat- seafood, restaurants, onfishand naturallyfocused and rampartsfromoneof El-Jadida’s best upstairs forexcellentviewsover theport The BUS &Away There Getting fiery chilli sauce. witha licious andcheap friedfishserved just offPlaceHansali, ispopularforitsde- andathrivingcaféculture.taurants El-Jadida hasahandfulof reasonable res- Eating ida northtoAzemmour. and issignposted ontheroadfromEl-Jad- near thePhare SidiMesbah, alighthouse, French fordirections; husband.Call itis get awarmwelcomefromFatima andher vegetables fromtheorganic garden.You’ll 148 dishes. of good-value fish,chicken andtajine upadecentmenu terful littleplaceserves side thewallsof theoldcity, thischarac- Mohammed Ahchemi Bahbai; mainsDh35-60) Mohammed AhchemiBahbai; med V; It’s notlicensed. on whatiseasilyEl-Jadida’s finestterrace. (Dh18 toDh28)orlusciousafternoon cake mous oncemore. forbreakfast It’sfantastic mean it’sanidealplacetojustfeel anony- wood-fired pizzasandsucculentsteaks tional menufeaturing homemadepasta, floor-to-ceiling windowsandaninterna- professionals. modernfurniture, Sleek friendly restaurant ispopularwithyoung midnight) Centre, 54Ave MohammedV;mainsDh60-100; Borj Mazagan Restaurante LaPortugaise Restaurante Tchikito Restaurant Restaurant duPort Restaurant Patisserie Royale Patisserie SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••AroundEl-Jadida h bus station Sortof slickandstylish, this 6am-8pm)

( Agoodspotforbreakfast x

( h x ( x 023 343435; 4th fl, Marhaba 023 343435;4thfl,Marhaba Thishole-in-the-wall,

closed Sunevening) 023 373841) (4 RueMohammedSmiha; ( 061 878354;PlaceMoham- x 023 342579; Port du 023 342579;Port

( x 063 037480;Rue isa10- Justin- h Head Head 7am- the tourist office ( the touristoffice p146 ). askat details around Dh10.Fortimetable tothecentreone hour).Apetittaxi costs (Dh30, ices adaytoandfromCasablanca 4km southof town.There are five serv- dina and somewonderful accommodation a languid charm, me- asturdy Portuguese their produce. backwater It’sasleepy with and fishermen goingdoor-to-door with blanca, life isstillsimple,withthefarmers tothe artmarket itisclose ofthough Casa- artists, whohave cometolive here. Al- El-Jadida TRAIN of theCitéPortugaise. north (Dh6) isbesidethelocalbusstation Sidi Bouzid(Dh5)andMoulayAbdallah (Dh5) toget there. rankfor Thegrand-taxi totake apetittaxiBouzid. You’llneed depart fromajunctionontheroadtoSidi Taxis toOualidia(Dh25)andSafi(Dh55) street busstation. nexttothelong-distance (Dh35)leaveCasablanca fromtheside forAzemmour(Dh6)andGrands taxis TAXI spread beyond. Spring) river andthe ocean,withthefields theOumer-Rbiain between (Motherof times: theoldwalledmedina squeezed terrace, which hehaspainted numerous his favourite viewof townfromhisroof cessful painters, describing hititright El-Amine, oneof Azemmour’s mostsuc- Azemmour AROUND EL-JADIDA just northof theCitéPortugaise. for MoulayAbdallah (Dh4.5),leave from day ahead. Marrakesh shouldbebooked atleastone (Dh23)and toCasablanca summer, buses Marrakesh (Dh40,four hours, hourly).In (Dh40,fourhours, 12daily)andRabat destinations aswellAzemmour(Dh5), 4½ hours, onedaily). 2½ hours, (Dh80, sixdaily)andEssaouira (Dh30, 1½hours, three daily),Safi(Dh60, toOualidia daily). There are alsoservices (Dh27,1½hours, fourfrom Casablanca CTM The picturesque townhasinspired many Bus 2forSidiBouzid(Dh3)andbus6 gotoallthesame Cheaper localbuses

( x train station 023 342662)

runs services toand runsservices ( x 023 352824) lonelyplanet.com islocated ATLANTIC COAST

149 surf- , while on the a well- ﺍﻟﻮﺍﻟﺪﻳﺔ

, and internet café fishing Mohammed V’s year-round) and Apr–mid-Nov) Dream Surf Oualidia 062 2511934; 4 Ave Has- 2511934; 4 Ave 062 windsurfing h here, and a Saturday here, h x sailing ( ,

on the bluff overlook- 023 366110; . 8am-midnight) kasbah swimming x (

h SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Oualidia Oualidia •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH 061 817817, 041 291838; . Signposted left off the road to the beach the road to the beach left off . Signposted The safe, calm waters of the lagoon are the lagoon are of calm waters The safe, Out of seasonOut of with little it is still quiet, Surfland x ing is the wide, sandy beach on either side of the on either side of the wide, sandy beach is good for breakwater organised surfing and kitesurfing school of- school surfing and kitesurfing organised tuition (Dh250). fering ing the lagoon in 1634. The lagoon also ing the lagoon in 1634. The lagoon also Morocco’s royalty and the grand attracted was edge villa on the water’s for perfect ( Sights & Activities Sights & Activities the Saadian SultanThe town is named after Oualid, who built the atmospherically el- crumbling summer palace more to do than relax, surf, swim and eat surf, to do than relax, more A in summer. the crowds well, but avoid to de- building work is threatening lot of this stunning of stroy the tranquil charm location. Orientation & Information sits on an escarpment above The village are and restaurants the lagoon. Most hotels (1km) – follow along the road to the beach You’ll signs down beside the post office. office and find a bank, CTM (per hr Dh8; OUALIDIA OUALIDIA pop 4000 Oualidia along to from El-Jadida The drive come the fields the coastal road, where ocean, is spec- of wild shore down to the tacular enough, upon arrival but the view The delightful than pleasing. small- is more around a spreads Oualidia of scale resort fringed lagoon crescent-shaped gorgeous from the with golden sands and protected the ocean by a rocky break- wild surf of for many years, A quiet backwater water. accommodation with a good selection of Oualidia is be- fish restaurants, and great re- a weekend as chic coming increasingly and Casablancais. sort for Marrakchis beach in town, also offers surfing and kite- in town, also offers beach surfing lessons, as well as equipment rental, in the hinterland. fishing trips and treks Plancoët Canoë-Kayak souq when people from surrounding vil- come to town to sell their wares. lages san II; http:// canoekayakplancoet.free.fr; per hr Dh80-100; san II; http://

023 x ( blends

(off Place ramparts 023 347516; x ( Capsys

(the Powder House) Ahmed el-Amine Riad Azama and a few places selling and a few and further on you’ll get and further on you’ll get 023 347071; www.azemmour-hotel x (

Dar el Baroud mellah Azemmour has two wonderful accom- Totally different but equally special, but equally special, Totally different There are lots of small restaurants out- small restaurants lots of are There costs A grand taxi to/from El-Jadida The Portuguese built the town in 1513 Azemmour has several a phar- banks, The main sight medina, an ochre- is the wonderful views over the river. All over the All over the river. wonderful views over by local artists, art- walls painted medina are ists studios including a Portuguese gunpowder store of which only which of a Portuguese gunpowder store the me- To the north of the tower remains. dina is the the typical Azemmour embroidery. modation options. du Souk; per hr Dh7). is a grand 19th-century house complete is a grand 19th-century house complete with original carved woodwork and charm- courtyard. ing rooms surrounding a lovely some The carved, are here ceilings painted has terrace and the rooftop the finest of an excel- There’s the medina. views of great lent dinner (Dh200). L’Oum Errebia www.riadazama.com; 17 Impasse Ben Tahar; d Dh500-750) www.riadazama.com; 17 Impasse Ben Tahar; 358902; 6 Derb el-Hantati) .com; 25 Impasse Chtouka; s/d/tr Dh750/900/1250) traditional Moroccan style with chic con- traditional Moroccan style with chic rooms are design. The simple temporary complete lounge, delightful and the large and grand piano, acts with open fireplace terrace as a modern art gallery. The large and communal meals the river overlooks served(Dh200) are dining-room at the big table. side the city walls in the new town. Dh7, a bus trip costs Dh5. options – a great place to while away a few away a few to while place – a great options river. the days overlooking posts along trading a string of as one of inhab- town’s most famous the coast. The itant Estevanico was the Black. Captured one of became he later slave, and made a to cross the entire explorers four the first America from Florida North mainland of to the Pacific. access at macy and internet lonelyplanet.com near Place du Souk or via steps at the north- steps near Place du Souk or via Walk along the the medina. corner of eastern walls to see walled town of narrow winding streets and streets narrow winding walled town of to the Assilah, houses.whitewashed Unlike unadorned and still north, it is completely in modern life an authentic glimpse of gives up onto the You can get Morocco. ATLANTIC COAST Dh150-200) road) blanca.com/ostrea; entranceofOualidiaontheCasablanca looking over thelagoon. There’s an excel- late agarden filledwithflowers, roomsoff Sep Dh246/280) Sep on themainroadinvillage. meals there of isaselection cheap eateries ing theroaddowntobeach. Forbargain There are cheaper someslightly placeslin- All hotels listed have their ownrestaurants. Sleeping &Eating h 150 cliffs. cliffs. grazing landsthatendatprecipitous sea moreever green dramatic,passingthrough ing fromDh110 to Dh250. well-prepared menusrang- withset seafood upafeast of restaurant downstairs serves views of thelagoonfromabalcony.The haveing. Theonesatthebackhowever rooms thatcoulddowithsomemodernis- friendly hotel withspacious,comfortable the lagoon,idealforbirdwatching. good valuebutfarfromthebeach. rooms withold-fashioned bathrooms.It’s airywhitewashed expect,withbright, might dated placeisbetterthis slightly thanyou fax 023 366144; s/d Dh200/300, Jun-Sep Dh246/280) fax 023366144;s/dDh200/300,Jun-Sep from Dh100) Dh500,[email protected]; rDh400,Jun-Sep selection ofselection fishdishesandpizzas. awide is oneof thebestintownandserves restaurantbalconies. Thepopularlicensed new fittings,spotlessbathroomsandtiny rooms,iswellequippedwith comfortable warm orange interiorand andpleasant Adventure from (Dh200 perhalf-day) andscootersbikes (Dh100perhalf-day) around Oualidiayoucanhire mountain cost, Dh200toDh250). restaurant (mealsincludingwine attached oysters attheexcellent andotherseafood Maison del’OstréaII Maison annually. Youcanvisitoyster farmNo7at which produceabout200tonnesof oysters Hotel Thalassa Hotel South of Oualidia the coastroadbecomes L’Hippocampe Oualidia isfamousforits Hôtel-Restaurant L’Initiale Hôtel-Restaurant Motel Al’AraignéeGourmande Motel To explore thesplendidcountryside Mar-Oct) SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Safi to see howitallworks.Youcantaste tosee Theonlyhotel onthemaindrag,

offers andkayaktripson canoe Thislittle,white villawitha ( x Afriendlyhotel withimmacu- 061 157743)

( ( x x

( x 023 366050; r Dh100-150, Jun-Sep 023 366050;rDh100-150,Jun-Sep 023 366108;s/dDh200/300, Jun- 023 366324;www.ilove-casa on themaindrag.

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Oualidia Maroc Oualidia Maroc x ( x oyster beds oyster 023 366246; 023 366447; A , rented through a maidandbreakfast. rented andpricesinclude outfortheweek with palmtrees. Theaccommodationis all surroundedbya25,000-sq-ft garden cottage andastudioflatwithroof terrace, roomed villa,alovely one-bedroom garden Moroccan design.There isathree bed- a mixture of traditionalandcontemporary villa issimplybutluxuriouslydecorated in withpanoramicoceanviews,thechic cliff crash of ona theoceanandwind.High fromthisstunning1930svillaisthe at night up to6peoplefrom£1000; 541646; www.ladiouana.com; offAve MoulayAbdelSalaam; studios pernightfromDh300) through, andyou oftenthrough, have the sites to fied medina are more atmospheric tostroll las, butthealleys of thewalledandforti- andwhitewashedtree-lined vil- boulevards family friendly. to Dh250),andsteps downtothebeach. It’s lent fishrestaurant menuscostDh110 (set brightly colouredbrightly Safipottery. a wholecityquarter andproducethetypical visit thegiantpottery worksthattake over stop here to enroute toorfromEssaouira to-day life of aMoroccancity.Mosttourists towns, butitoffers intotheday- aninsight picturesque thantheneighbouring coastal the exportof phosphates, Safi isalotless An industrialcentre andathrivingportfor pop 415,000 SAFI (Dh30) ineitherdirection. CTM here hasanoffice andhasadailybus from nearthepostoffice onthemainroad. Dh25/22).Theyleaveand Safi(bus/taxi lar timestoEl-Jadida Dh25/22) (bus/taxi runatirregu- andgrandstaxis Local buses &Away There Getting all set inbeautifullandscapedgardens. all set indoor pool,andaninfinitypoolspa– menucostsDh200toDh350),an rants (set lagoon. There’s achoice of three restau- private Jacuzzi andterrace overlooking the geous hotel hasjust11roomswithfireplace, asi .com; Parc àHuîtres No3;dDh2100-4200,steDh3800-4750; Other apartmentsandvillascanbe The new town is pleasant enough with enough The newtownis pleasant La Sultana Villa LaDiouana Villa ) Spectacularly luxurious,thisgor-Spectacularly ( x Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels 024 388008;www.lasultanaoualidia

( www.oualidia.net x ai 066 551646,inUK00447810 . ) All youcanhear lonelyplanet.com

(in French; ﺁﺳﻔﻲ ATLANTIC COAST D3 C2 A2 A2 A2 151 3 (157km) 10

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Old Port

Ocean Atlantic SAFI

Safi’s natural harbour was known to the was known to the natural harbour Safi’s Phoenicians and the Romans, but in the as a port for the 11th century it was known and trans-Saharan trade between Marrakesh and ivory were gold, slaves Guinea, where the town became sold. In the 14th century and cultural centre, an important religious built a when the Merenids History yourself. The beaches are famous for their for their famous are yourself. The beaches sands immaculate surf. The impressive the location for the town were north of said to and are Challenge 2006 Billabong in the world. the finest waves some of have landscape is largely town the Just south of visitors. to no interest of industrial and lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST tables (Dh5pergame)andheavingwithstudents. hr Dh7; h The impressive Sights Syndicat d’Initiative postoffice Main Cyber ClubLascala .com fortouristinformation. Nacer.Place DrissBen Visitwww.safi-ville tered aroundPlacedel’Indépendanceand There are plentyof banksandATMs clus- Information 1km southof thetowncentre. hammed V. residential areas. Atthecentre isPlaceMo- the more expensive hotels andthesmarter home tothecity’sadministrative buildings, ‘new’ town–uponthehilltoeastis on oraroundPlacedel’Indépendance. The hotels and restaurants are inthelowertown, The fortress, medinaandthebulkof cheaper Orientation Safi isoneof Morocco’slargest ports. the citybegantoexpandrapidly.Today, southofplex wasestablished thetownand ally. Amajor phosphate-processing com- annu- the 30,000tonnesof caught sardines 152 called twisting alley,are theremains of theso- area. of Totheright thisstreet, down a jewellery,clothing andfoodinthis stalls, andyou’llfindmostof thesouqs, Lamaasa, Rue duSouq,runsnortheastfrom Bab thewalled stands the topforviewsacrossmedina. killed orshipped as slaves. Youcanclimbto tower were kept of inthebasement the west bastionwithgreat views.Prisoners ramp inthecourtyardleadstosouth- town governor andprotect theport.The the authority,house to enforcePortuguese the rockywaterfront. Thefortress wasbuilt nates thecrashing waves of theAtlantic on & 3-7pm) Tourist informationcentre, butnotveryhelpful. & 3-7pm)Tourist with ramps, gunneryplatforms andliving it. whostarted ished bythePortuguese admission Dh10; Safi’s bus and train stations areSafi’s busandtrainstations about Across the street from the Qasr al-Bahr Across thestreet fromtheQasral-Bahr The 8am-noon &2.30-6pm) SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Safi , right of, right theentrance,before being h Kechla Cathédrale Portugaise Cathédrale 8am-midnight) Fantastic gamesden,withpool , amassive defensive structure h (Ave SidiMohammedAbdallah) (Ave per SidiMohammedAbdallah; 8.30am-noon &2.30-6pm) Qasr al-Bahr (Rue de la Liberté; (Rue delaLiberté; medina , which fin- wasnever . Themainstreet,

(Castle on the Sea; (Castle ontheSea; (admission Dh10; h 9am-noon domi- prison prison Place del’Indépendance;s/d/trDh60/100/130) rooms have oceanviews. thing iscleanandwellkept, andhalf the rooms (hotshower costsDh5),butevery- The roomsare basicandhave shared bath- good-value itcanbenoisy rooms,although the bestof themedinaoptions,withlarge, three-star hotel. small balconiesare available atthisreliable, rooms withcleanen-suite bathroomsand h Marne; mainsDh70-90; Marne; safi.com; Ave Zerktouni; s/d/steDh514/728/1500; ther of are these great choices forwomen. nei- Souq andalongRuedeR’bat,though places are aroundtheportendof Ruedu (which can bepretty grim).Thecheapest a better place thananaverage budget hotel gofor in Safi,butifyoudodecidetostay, There isnotmuch reason tospendthenight Sleeping &Eating the quarters, restored hasbeen andopenedas zeria and nightclub. zeria andnightclub. restaurants menucostsDh190),apiz- (set pool terrace, afitnessroom,hammam,two a minibar. There are goodviewsfromthe kling bathrooms,anti-allergy duvets and and stylishroomsinpaleneutrals,spar- the renovated Farah isabargain withlarge The besthotel andthebestvalueinSafi, shop. small tiporbuyanitem ortwofromthe him atwork,you’llbeexpected togive a at work.Ifapotter invites youintowatch thepottersaround thecooperatives andsee dominantly traditionalandyoucanwander (Potters’ here Hill).Theskillsused are pre- kilns andchimneys of the site thegate, youcan’tmiss theearthen contemporary piecesbylocalartists. tery from Safi, Fez andMeknès, andsome with aglass of wine. and pizza toOualidiaoysters, all served and Mediterranean dishesfromlambtajine fine menu,witha widechoice of Moroccan tasteful decorandasurprisingly service, Dh262/330; s/dwithshowerDh198/280,bath Rue delaLiberté; Hôtel Assif Hôtel Hôtel Farah Hôtel Hôtel Majestic Hôtel Restaurant Gégène Restaurant Outside Bab Chaba,Outside Bab onthehilloppo- 8.30am-6pm Wed-Mon) Musée NationaldeCéramique Musée a

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels ( h 024 464299;www.goldentulipfarah x 024 622940;www.hotel-assif.ma;

closed Sun) ( 024 464011;fax462490; . Exhibits includepot- . Exhibits x 024 463369;11Ruedela Colline desPotiers lonelyplanet.com Old-fashioned

(admission Dh10; Thisis as )

ATLANTIC COAST

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Le Refuge bus station train station In summer (May to September) bus 15 In summer (May Driving further on, you’ll hit some un- SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Around Safi Safi Around •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH one of the nicest spots on this stretch. Take Take the nicest spots on this stretch. one of café down a seriesa left by the Lalla Fatna hairpin bends to the sands beneath the of the headland cliffs. Further on you’ll reach and lighthouse at ben from Rue Driss runs along this route Nacer in Safi. where there’s a wide, sandy beach. there’s where developed beaches that are up-and-coming that are developed beaches the longest surf spots and home to one of in the world. Profes- tubular right-handers Tom Carroll as Gary Elkerton, sionals such to train and in come here Hackman and Jeff was held here. 2006 the Billabong Challenge At 12km from Safi, sheltered the the ESSAOUIRA pop 69,000 Essaouira (pronounced ‘essa-weera’, or ‘es- Sweera’ is at once familiar and in Arabic) exotic with its fortified walls, fishing har- bour and seagulls soaring and screaming it seems first the town. At as though over this could be a town in Brittany, France – Es- that thought given a strange not such saouira was designed by the same French- man who designed Brittany’s most famous And yet once you port town, Saint-Malo. Moroc- the walls, it is also infinitely enter alleys full of narrow can and mysterious: AROUND SAFI AROUND SAFI Safi, north of The wonderfully wild coastline with its dramatic cliffs gorgeous sheltering The first drive. great a makes sandy coves, where Sidi Bouzid, stop is the headland of town. It’s view back over a great you’ll get the popular fish at a good spot for lunch restaurant 5½ hours), Casablanca 5½ hours), 4½ hours), (Dh84, and Marrakesh 8½ hours) (Dh179, Fez 5.50am They depart at hours). (Dh63, three trains to Safi return are There and 3.50pm. 8pm. at noon and Getting Around Both the tance south from the centre of town. A me- of tance south from the centre taxi petit will cost around from either tered Dh10. Local buses from just north operate ben Nacer. Place Driss of Bouzid; set menu Dh150;

Run fixed- . train station buses stop- closed Sun) 024 620959; 2 Rue 2 Rue 024 620959; on the right- open-air fish res- h x rond-point de Sidi de Sidi rond-point ( pottery souq

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024 462176; Rue de R’bat) Other operators run daily departures to run daily departures Other operators Fish and seafood, sardines, particularly

Restaurant La Trattoria x hand side of Rue du Souq as your enter Rue du Souq as your enter hand side of the medina from Bab Lamaasa. To the left, the same street, end of towards the eastern you’ll find the colourful you change for servicesyou change to Rabat (Dh109, l’Aouinate; meals Dh200, fish Dh150; meals Dh200, l’Aouinate; ping in Safi originate elsewhere, so consider elsewhere, ping in Safi originate CTM booking at least a day in advance. has one daily service (Dh97, five to Agadir to Casablanca and others (Dh81, hours) (Dh45, two 15 daily), El-Jadida four hours, four daily) and Essaouira (Dh30, two hours, nine daily). hours, the same destinations as well as to Oua- lidia (Dh25, one hour, one daily) and Tiznit one daily). (Dh90, six hours, There are two services are There from Safi ( TRAIN TAXI TAXI (Dh57) grands taxis to Marrakesh are There and Essaouira (Dh48), among other desti- from the parking lot leave nations, which beside the bus station. The rank for Oualidia (Dh45) is a good kilo- (Dh25) and El-Jadida road. town on the El-Jadida north of metre

Most of the Most of Getting There & Away Getting There & Away BUS Safi is an excellent place to buy pottery of all of to buy pottery Safi is an excellent place for prices visit the a feel types. To get Shopping price pottery shop lonelyplanet.com by the same management as Gégène, but as Gégène, by the same management La upmarket, is a lovely Trattoria more and surpris- ambience relaxed place with a ingly good Italian has a full food. The menu pizzas and pasta, and a good choice of range fish and seafood.of a speciality in Safi, and the best place are at the to sample them are taurants Bouzid tablish the price before ordering, as fish is tablish the price before by weight,special – or order the fish charged fish served of and a spicy a plate with bread tomato sauce for Dh35. A petit taxiget to costs about Dh10. there ATLANTIC COAST thuya wood,thewomen intheirwhite airmixed withthearomaofsea spicesand ple crazy,thesmellsof fishgutsanddamp intrigue, thewindthatreputedly drives peo- Essaouira 154 reverberates from shops andhouses. sound of drumsand Gnawasinging that palm trees onthered citywalls,andthe (veils), the midday shadowreflection of the (1km) Mogador To Îlede ESSAOUIRA SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Essaouira SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Sofitel Mogador...... Hôpital SidiMohammed kl uPr...... A3 Skala duPort...... Océan Vagabond...... Fish Auction...... Club MistralatSofitel...... Ciel etMer...... Main PostOffice...... benAbdallah...... Harbour 7 Atlantic Ocean Marine Porte de la See EssaouiraMedinaMap(p156) 5 Kasbah Skala de la 3 Office Port Skala de la Ville 10 Moulay Hassan Place

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1 Blvd de l'Hopital de Blvd 6 Cap Sim(9km);Airport(14km); Maison duChameau(7km); Coopérative Amal(63km); Assafar Imitaghant(7km); To Borjel-Berod(2km); 14 Abouda Safar(6km); Sidi Kaouki(26km); Marrakesh (170km) Tamanar (62km); Agadir (160km); Diabat (6km); lonelyplanet.com 12 11 ATLANTIC COAST 155 SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Essaouira Essaouira •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH In 1764 Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben In 1764 Sultan ben Sidi Mohammed In the late 15th century, PortugueseIn the late sail- Winter is the time to get closer to get is the time to the Winter The Phoenicians founded the settlement Abdallah installed himself in Essaouira, Abdallah could go and at- his corsairs from where who rebelled Agadir tack the people of architect, a French hired against him. He a city in the Cornut, to create Théodore nothing sand and wind, where middle of Moroccan and The combination of existed. European styles pleased the Sultan, who re- named the town Essaouira, meaning ‘well designed’. The port soon became a vital link and Europe. for trade between Timbuktu in gold, salt, the trade It was a place where was carefully feathers ivory, and ostrich ors saw the advantages of the bay, renamed the bay, renamed saw of the advantages ors it Mogador, and established a trade and took an important military post. The Jews be- position in the town, as intermediaries powers. tween the sultan and the foreign allowed to sell the only ones They were wheat to the Christians. By 1541, the Por- tugueseto the Saadians, the had lost control to and trade diverted from favour port fell Moga- to Although trade returned Agadir. to the Ala- dor when political power shifted the town never fully recovered. wites, real Essaouira,howls at its when the wind real the smash against the waves and strongest town is in- In summer the city’s defences. tourists, the Moroccan of vaded by throngs ac- and it is hard to find is crowded beach commodation. here Migdol (meaning watchtower) of BC,around the 7th century and the rocky pop- a large islands soon supported offshore purple a much-prized ulation who extracted For dye from a local mollusc, the murex. centuries Essaouira served harbour as a safe between source on the route and freshwater Islands and the equator. the Cap Verde renown, mainly thanks to the efforts thanks mainly the of renown, ). p164 ( Damgaard Frederic Galerie History old city and fortifications in the Most of from the 18th century, today date Essaouira history that older but the town has a much started with the Phoenicians. For centuries, the town, had a firm grip over foreigners and although Moroccans eventually re- on lingers influence claimed it, the foreign today. and feels in the way the town looks that, despite the that, despite – crossroads between in Berber taros or Firmly established on the travellers’ trail, trail, Firmly established on the travellers’ It is the wind – the beautifully named Essaouira lies on the two tribes: the Arab Chiadma to the north Berbers the south. Add to in and the Haha that the Gnawa, who came originally from further south in Africa, and the Europeans cultural mix. The light a rich and you get artists to attracted forever and beauty have Essaouira, and the town has a flourishing Lakhdar The sculptor Boujemaa art scene. started the local museum in the 1950s and, art- of generation a in the process, inspired ists. Since then, the autodidactic Gnawa in a col- who paint their dreams painters, earned international have ourful palette, including Jimi Hendrix, here in the 1960s the 1960s in here Jimi Hendrix, including and writers artists, later and and 1970s, craftsmen. These days however, as in many to likely more you are places in Morocco, looking to buy a house visitors encounter old medina, dreaming in the picturesque opening yet sun or of in the an easy life of house. another guest crowded in re- Essaouira has become more place it is a chic and increasingly cent years town is slowly The 18th-century old to be. being tarted up and gentrified. but surely day- of morning, busloads In the late dropped off at the main square, get trippers stroll en masse through the town, and are town in the up on the other side of picked At nightafternoon. however the place late and calm, becomes itself again, laid-back again the gentle when you can hear once wind the shuffle kaftans, the blowing of of for lo- the Souiris (term and the hush of cals from Essaouira) crowding the cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. alizee its char- Essaouira retains crowds, ensures It blows too hard to attract sun, sand acter. the year, you and sea of tourists: for much at all as the sand can’t sit on the beach blows horizontally No surprise in your face. then that Essaouira has been dubbed ‘Wind Africa’ and attracts so many wind- City of head further south to Sun-seekers surfers. The charm Agadir. clime of the temperate the town is that it hasn’t been entirely of by tourism. The fishing harbour over taken is just as busy as it always was, the wood- still amazing at their craft and are workers the medina is just as important for locals as it is popular with tourists. lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST salubrious partof salubrious town. north of Ave making thistheleast Zerktouni, backstreets in anarea eastof l’Lunétoileand Drug dealers and junkieshangoutinthe are stillproblems withdrugsanddrinking. muchbeen cleanedupinrecent years, there the town,andparticularly backstreets of the town butyoushouldbeonyourguard inthe isstillmostlyasafe, relaxedEssaouira tourist Dangers &Annoyances rison of 2000imperialsoldiers. monitored, taxed andcontrolledbyagar- Medina Essaouira 156 of Marrakesh. to Europeantouristsescapingthecrowds of visitors, fromartists,surfers andwriters asteady flow a hangout,thetownhasseen Hendrix as Essaouira andthehippieschose Welles filmed water After again becameEssaouira. Orson back- independence in1956thatthesleepy blanca, Tangier andAgadir. It wasonlywith to Mogadoranddiverted tradetoCasa- protectorate, changed thetown’snameback ESSAOUIRA MEDINA Atlantic By 1912theFrench had Ocean SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Essaouira Skala dela Kasbah

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8.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) 024 475716; Blvd de l’Hôpital) For emergencies. SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Essaouira Essaouira •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH Opposite the tourist office. 12-14 Rue Allal ben Abdellah) POST Main INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS town. Most cafés all over internet are There Dh8 to open from 9am to 11pm and charge Dh10 per hour. Cyber Les Remparts Espace Internet Mogador Informatique MEDICAL SERVICES Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Hôpital Pharmacie la Kasbah MONEY around several banks with ATMs are There and along the main Place Moulay Hassan road leading northeast to Bab Doukkala. and exchange good for foreign Most are cash advances. credit-card long French classes and eight-week Arabic classes as well aslong French films, exhibitions and cultural events.regular EMERGENCIES Medical Emergencies Police h x Es- (in 024 x EATING La Casa del Mar...... B1 Grill Stands...... 27) Le 5...... (see Pâtisserie Driss...... Restaurant El-Minzah...... Restaurant Ferdaous...... Restaurant Les Alizés...... Restaurant Les Chandeliers...... Riad Al-Baraka...... Sandwich Stands...... Hôtel Les Matins Bleus...... Hôtel Les Hôtel Smara...... 6) Jack's Appartments...... (see Karimo...... Lalla Mira...... Le Grand Large...... Madada...... Palais Heure Bleue...... Riad Nakhla...... Au Bonheur des Dames...... 44) Café Faid...... (see Café d'Horloge...... Elizir...... Fish Souq...... Gelateria Dolce Freddo...... A2 B1 C2 A3 A2 B3 B2 B2 A2 A2 A2 B3 B3 B3 A3 B2 B2 B3 A2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 (Essaouira – the (Essaouira – the 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 024 476290; 2 Rue de la 024 475538; 1 Place Moulay (Map p156 ; x x (Map p156 ; (Map p156 ;

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INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah Jack's Kiosk...... A3 Dar Beida...... Hôtel Beau Rivage...... Dar Adul...... Dar Afram...... Dar Al-Bahar...... Skala de la Ville...... Hammam Riad el-Medina...... Museum...... Hammam Lalla Mira...... (see 25) Hammam Lalla Mira...... (see Hammam de la Kasbah...... Entry to Ramparts...... Pharmacie La Kasbah...... Police Station...... Post Office...... Galerie Aida...... Mogador Informatique...... Délégation du Tourisme...... Espace Internet...... Alliance Franco-Marocaine...... Alliance Cyber Les Remparts...... h 476197; www.ambafrance-ma.org/institut/afm-es- saouira/index.cfm; Derb Lâalaouj, 9 Rue Mohammed Diouri; CULTURAL CENTRES CENTRES CULTURAL Alliance Franco-Marocaine Jack’s Kiosk Skala) Yorker, Run by a former New this place stocks a small but good selection of English-language books and some funky junk. Galerie Aida Information BOOKSHOPS The tourist office sells town a useful map of guidebook (Dh15) and an interesting MAPS MAPS saouira – La Séductrice saouira has Dh40), which in French, Enchantress, information on everything from local his- tory and arts to traditional music, festi- buy Another good vals and architecture. is locally) (though not always available Promenades en Bab: de Bab Essaouira Berrada, a wonderful by Hammad French) details It provides walking tours. book of walks, accompanied by eight different of and compre- photographs text, descriptive the medina. maps of hensive lonelyplanet.com Hassan) Sells newspapers and magazines foreign-language and German You along with some English, French books. ). p163 apartmentscan also rent (see here ATLANTIC COAST ange juice. lunches andunhurriedcoffeeorfresh or- surely discovery interspersed withrelaxed parts, portandbeach are perfect forlei- for rambling.Themedina,souqs,ram- in sights it’sawonderfulplaceEssaouira, thereAlthough aren’t somanyformal Sights Délégation duTourisme TOURIST INFORMATION Post office 158 around town. andactivities noticeboards withinformationonevents lots ofinformationandadvicefortravellers,aswell officehas Thishelpfultourist noon &3-6.30pmMon-Fri) 783532; www.essaouira.com; 10RueduCaire; Mon-Fri) stunning there andIdon’tgooften enough. atanytime oftheday.ItistrulyMaroc fromtheinterior, butIlove alongtheramparts walking What isyourfavourite buildingormonument? still love theplacetobitsthough… story? Ithappensinsomanyplacesbut issosadtoseeandituswhoare toblamereally. I the foreigners mewhohave like boughtplaceshere andare runningabusiness,doyougetmy We were made tofeel very welcome here atfirst,butthere isnowalot ofresentment against Agadir Marrakesh, or citieslike orCasa, sothere islessandworkforthepeopleintown. itstilltobetherefor itandexpect youusedto. like They are alotmore aggressive andyou cannotleave abagincaféandgoback anhourlater effect, becausethere isnoworkforthemhere sotheyhave beenpushedtoalcohol anddrugs. to Essaouira,sowenowhave asuccessfulbusiness. Butformanylocalsithashadanegative the changes. courseforusinsomewaysthechangesare Of goodbecause more peoplecome How doyoufeel aboutthechanges,isitgoodorbad? really isamessandMoroccolittlecorrupt! I’mafraid.The infrastructurecatch. The money spentbythelocalauthoritiesisallsuperficial mendingtheirnetsorpitchingsheetsofplasticanywhere theycouldtoselltheirin theport These daysit’shardtofindthetrueEssaouira Iusedtoknow,where thefishermenwere sitting houses intheoldcity,mostlytoturnthemintoholidayhomes,townisnow toocleanedup. along theseafront.Alotofauthenticityhasbeenremoved andwithlotsofforeigners buyingup last five years. There hasbeenahugeinfluxoftourists,sonowthere are alotofhotels allbuilt Has thetownchangedalotsinceyouhave beenlivinghere? have Ibeenproven very wrong! around, butmainlybecauseIthoughtlife here wouldbelessstressful thaninLondonandboy, thatthebusinessisjustmore todobothwiththefact successfulwithmeme in.This haspartly here atfirst,becauseIfell inlove withthiswhite, organic architecture andthetownjustreeled Why didyouchooseEssaouira? three months,usuallyforthree weeks. have lived here foraboutfive years. Ilove every itbutIgohometoLondonforsanity’ssake How longhave youlived inEssaouira? EMMA WILSON SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Essaouira Unfortunately whenanewhotelUnfortunately opens employeesare broughtinfrommore educated towns (Map (Map p156 ; RueLaâlouj; (Map p156 ; p156; (Map h x 8.30am-4pm I guessEssaouirachosemeandsuited it.Iboughtahouse 024 h 9am- Ihave beencomingtoEssaouirafor10years,andI Myfavourite building intownisprobablyVilla est placetoaccesstherampartsisat in acage above Theeasi- therocksandsea. a panoramicshot where Iagoissuspended opening sceneof Orson Welles’ The rampartswere inthe famouslyused get of anoverview thelabyrinthof streets. surround themedinaare agreat placeto to stroll. wooden doors make itawonderfulplace andheavyshops, whitewashed old houses narrow windingstreets linedwithcolourful For thevisitor,mellowatmosphere, architecturepean military inNorthAfrica. fortified layoutisaprimeexampleof Euro- late-18th-century 2001. Itswell-preserved, added toUnesco’sWorldHeritage listin Essaouira’s walled Essaouira’s MEDINA &PORT The dramatic,wave-lashed rampartsthat I personallyhave mixed viewsabout It haschangedhugelyinthe medina (Map p156 ) lonelyplanet.com Othello Skala Skala

was for ATLANTIC COAST

159 You are You are fish auction which means ‘so which means ‘so (off Map p154 ) is p154 (off Map , which takes place in place takes , which Chuir ? 3-5pm Mon-Sat) Île de Mogador ’. h

chuir SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Essaouira Essaouira •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH These elegant birds of prey come here to come here prey These elegant birds of the market hall just outside the port gates. hall just outside the market you can seeyou can being boats traditional wooden visiting the also worth It’s made. (Map p154 ; FALCONS & ELEANORA’S ÎLE DE MOGADOR in Phoenician times for and Roman Used purple dye, and Tyrian of the production (Purple as the Îles Purpuraires once known Isles), the breed from April to October before mak- before from April to October breed south to journey return ing their incredible actually two islands and severalactually two islands and tiny islets. fortification, a mosque and a A massive what is left of all that disused prison are was once a thriving settlement, and today a sanctuary for islands are the uninhabited Eleanora’s falcons.

Essaouira for me is the old Essaouira: lovely, giving, giving, Essaouira for me is the old Essaouira: lovely, My favourite restaurant was Elizir but he has closed just was Elizir but he has closed just restaurant My favourite I like the naivety of the people and the way they showed and the way they showed of the people I like the naivety The week and weekends are all the same to me. If I have cli- If I have same to me. all the week and weekends are The Skala du Port Océan Vagabond on the beach is good to relax, otherwise I go otherwise I go on the beach is good to relax, Océan Vagabond Taros is the only real bar really. It’s a great place to go at sunset, at sunset, place to go It’s a great bar really. is the only real Taros 8.30am-noon & 2.30- 8.30am-noon & h Emma Wilson is an interior designer, who rents out houses, and girl-about-town. Emma Wilson is an interior designer, who rents (Map p156 ), the impressive sea ), the impressive p156 (Map offers more cannons and picturesque cannons and picturesque more offers What do you like about this place? What do you like about important the kids – spending time with your family, watching me what is really grow, in life right than it more they have I am sure run around like headless chickens. while we in Europe us really! restaurant? What is your favourite now, but he is going to reopen I hope. I love the fresh fish at the stalls just outside the harbour, fish at the stalls just outside the harbour, the fresh I love I hope. now, but he is going to reopen look for 10 years so they always really particularly known the boys there number 33 Ali. I have around 3pm. sharing a table so I normally go there me, but I hate after bar or café? Your favourite is very France on the square Café The on the rooftop terrace. you with the seagulls soaring over because they on the corner is my favourite, Gelateria to say that the Italian authentic but I hate and ice cream! excellent coffee have do you go to relax? Where further south to the beach in Sidi Kaouki. (Moroccan dialect) darija word in the local What is your favourite so’. When someone asks ‘Are you ok?’ you can answer ‘ so’. When someone asks ‘Are a favourite? do you have here, in the streets seem to be many characters There right, there are so many, and I love or hate them all for different reasons. The tramp at the tramp at the The reasons. them all for different or hate and I love so many, are right, there car park by the fish stalls is cool though. He sort get paid, as in he but doesn’t of works there helpful lookingsay he is very to him money. I have hangs out there filthy dirty so we all give and speaks excellent English. What do you do on weekends? someone’s house, I will usually be running ents staying in one of our houses, or I’m doing up country, or off to Marrakesharound with them. If not, I’ll be seeing friends in the or Sidi Kaouki for a couple of days. for you? What does Essaouira represent fact that they have The and they seem so content. smiling people, the simplicity of their lives me mad). I love all day (although now that drives with friends and chat tea time to sit and have forget. that I will never has some magic and the town definitely the architecture The large working port is a bustling place working port The large Down by the harbour, the Down by the views over the fishing port and the Île de the fishing port and the Île views over back at the walled me- Looking Mogador. through swirl- a curtain of dina from here, ing seagulls, the same evocative get you’ll that is usednearly all official on picture literature. activity throughout the day.with plenty of boats, nets being of Along with the flurry being landed and the day’s catch repaired 6pm) (Map p154 ; adult/child Dh10/3; ; adult/child Dh10/3; p154 (Map de la Ville the cliffs. built along bastion A collection from the 18th European brass cannons of here lines the walkway and 19th centuries views out to sea and great get and you’ll also sunsets. gorgeous lonelyplanet.com ATLANTIC COAST Phoenician objectsfoundinthebay. Phoenician of thecentury.Note alsotheRomanand esting photographs of attheturn Essaouira bylocalcraftspeopleandsomeinter-used explainingthesignsandsymbols a section struments andcarpetsof theregion. There’s costumes, weapons,amazingmusicalin- small butinteresting collection of jewellery, .mogador-iles.com; Port dePeche; adult/childDh80/40) .mogador-iles.com; Port Ksob River (impassable at high tide) to see tide)tosee Ksob River athigh (impassable a ride–andbargain hardifyoudo. make itclearifyou’ve nointerest intaking They canbequite insistent, sobefirm and and camelowners furtheron. plythesands the beach, whilefiercelycompetitive horse and kitesurfers take over the town endof ing orswimming.Footballers, windsurfers currents meanit’snotsogoodforsunbath- place forwalking,butthestrongwinds and beach wide,sandy isagreatEssaouira’s BEACH &WATERSPORTS Activities p156; (Map Essaouira’s beautifully refurbished MUSEUM SIDI MOHAMMED BENABDALLAH than Dh300. the priceof thetrip.Itshouldn’t costmore fishing boatsattheportandnegotiating fice beforeoutoneof thesmall seeking apermit(free)to obtain fromtheportof- private boattripatothertimes.Youneed butyoucanarrangebreeding a season of theriver. ontheshore bythemouth the lighthouse, south of town,about1kmorsobeyond ifyou’remended intheevening alone)is notrecom-Another viewingplace(though with thebestviewinginearlyevening. binoculars beach,through fromEssaouira Madagascar. Thefalconscaneasilybeseen 160 3.30pm. Italsoorganises fishingtrips. rest of theyear,departures are atnoon and tures 11.30amand6.30pm.Forthe between folk music.Insummerthere are fourdepar- unabletoescaperelentless stranded atsea ditions candelaydepartures orleave you con- around theislands,butbadsailing h et Mer If you’re walking, headsouthacross the There isalso anorganised boattrip, The islandsare limitsin strictlyoff 8.30am-6pm Wed-Mon) SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Essaouira

Mp p154; (Map x 024 475300;RueLaâlouj;adult/childDh10/3; x 024 474618,064326493;www inanoldriad,hasa museum Ciel

hydrotherapy, aquagym and massages. Excellent service. hydrotherapy, aquagym andmassages. Excellentservice. 2.30-4pm mixed) Atraditionalhammam,alsooffering Mohammed V; ence. Womenonly. admissionDh8)Foramore traditional,localexperi- kesh; traditional interior. Goodvaluemassageswithargan oil. hasawonderful energy and,althoughaimedattourists, oldest, thisnewlyrestored hammamisheatedbysolar gommage Dh60; hammamDh15,www.lallamira.ma; 14Rued’Algerie; 10-hour kitesurfing courses costDh2300. Six-hour surfingcourses costDh1100and (fromDh250perhour). tuition foralllevels hour). Italsooffers kitesurfing andsurfing (Dh170 perhour)andsurfboards(Dh80 HAMMAMS French; (off Map beach. equipment andoffer instructionalongthe dunesof Sim. to thesand Cap of Diabat( p166 ) orcontinuealongthesands From here youcanwalkinlandtothevillage song wasreleased ayearbefore hevisited. Madeclassic ‘Castles of the Sand’;however, the originalinspirationforJimiHendrix Locallegendin sand. hasitthatthiswas an oldfortress andpavilion partiallycovered the ruinsof the horse and camel rides on the beach, several horse andcamelrides onthebeach, several To try somethingmore thanthe serious RIDING Mogador Sofitel el-Madina Hammam Riad Hammam LallaMira Hammam delaKasbah about town; There are plentyof small hammams hidden a firstsweat. 12.30pm &4-7pmmixed) Anothergoodplace tobreak from Dh100; admissionDh70,massage475046; 9Rueel-Attarine; with alaid-back terrace onthebeach. (Dh60 perhour).Ithasacoolcafé-restaurant hour/six hours costsDh500/1200)andrental for Dh1200),andwindsurfinglessons(one hours costDh1950)andrental (three days (Dh350). Italsooffers kitesurfing lessons(six for Dh500)andgives two-hoursurfinglessons h 783934; www.club-mistral.com;BlvdMohammedV; Further along thebeach, A numberof outletsrent water-sports 9am-6pm) h p154 ; Club Mistral at Sofitel Club Mistral 8am-8pm) h x rents windsurfing equipment h h 9-10am &3-4pmwomen,10am- 024 783934; www.oceanvagabond.com, in 024 783934;www.oceanvagabond.com,in Mp p154; (Map 7am-12.30pm &4-10.30pmwomen, Borj el-Berod 9.30am-7pm women)Oneofthe rents surfboards(three days (Map p156 ; p156; (Map (Map (Map p156 ; 7Ruede Marra- (Map p156 ; p156; (Map x 024 479000;Blvd (off Map (off p154 ),

x lonelyplanet.com Mp p154; (Map Océan Vagabond 024 475907; x 024 x 024

ATLANTIC COAST

161 Hid- /fax 024 /fax 024 As cen- As 024 785363, x -clad bath- x 024 475925; www Riad Nakhla Riad Nakhla x 024 785657; www.dar This extremely This extremely 024 475655; 26 Rue de la 26 Rue de la 024 475655; tadelakt (Map p156 ; (Map p156 ; x x

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Riad Nakhla SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Essaouira Essaouira •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH Hôtel Les Matins Bleus Dar Afram o Hôtel Smara Hôtel Beau Rivage -afram.com; 10 Rue Sidi Magdoul; s Dh150, d Dh300-400, Jun-Sep s Dh250, d Dh400-450) tral as it gets, overlooking the main square, the main square, overlooking tral as it gets, the Beau has bright cheerful and Rivage rooms with modern fittings and spotless a bit noisy but bathrooms. The rooms are spectacle in town, while the greatest offer is served breakfast and on the charming the port with views over terrace quiet roof and town. 066 308899; www.les-matins-bleus.com; 22 Rue de Drâa; 066 308899; www.les-matins-bleus.com; s/d/ste Dh275/420/840, Jun-Sep Dh300/460/920) comes as a bit of shock. It looks like any any like shock. It looks comes as a bit of place from the outside, but other budget a is met with inside the weary traveller in a beautiful courtyard, friendly reception with elegant stone columns and a fountain expect from a what you’d trickling, more The well- in a higherhotel price bracket. but com- simple bedrooms are appointed local full of kept, fortable and immaculately windows, colourful with shuttered flavour and great bedspreads All whitewashed, the Smara has just four the Smara has just All whitewashed, the sea, the best ones on rooms overlooking is served. breakfast where terrace the roof internal rooms open onto an The other The can be damp in winter. room, but clean. tiled and bathrooms are communal Popular because it’s good value, especially book ahead or ar- the quadruple rooms, so early. rive 474940; www.essaouiranet.com/riad-nakhla; 2 Rue Aga- dir; s Dh225, d Dh325, ste Dh400-500) .essaouiranet.com/beaurivage; Hassan; s/d/ 14 Place Moulay tr Dh250/350/450, d without bathroom Dh200) den down a dead-end street, this charming this charming den down a dead-end street, has bright,hotel traditionally styled rooms friendly guest house has simple, spotless friendly guest house has simple, spotless and a funky bathrooms rooms with shared are The Aussie-Moroccan owners vibe. sessionmusicians and an impromptu often around a follows the evening meals shared tiled It also has a lovely communal table. hammam. Skala; Dh200/275) with sea view d/q s/d/q Dh75/105/185, rooms. All have a TV. Breakfast on the roof on the roof Breakfast a TV. rooms. All have the ocean and town with views over terrace bargain It’s an incredible is another treat. at this price. 024 An me-

x , a re- (late Sep) 028 271258, 062 028 271258, 062 (3rd weekend Jun; x (

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(May; www.alizesfestival offers an eight-day an offers Abouda Safar Maison du Chameau

s (white Sudaneses (white The racing camels). For camel riding, the best place to go best place to go For camel riding, the

.com) A small music festival featuring music and classical .com) A small music festival opera. www.festival-gnaoua.net) A four-day musical extravaganza featuring national and local performers international, as well as a series of art exhibitions. trek around the region or half-day/full-day region around the trek (Dh350/450). local treks is the The choice of budget accommodation in accommodation in budget of The choice the usual Moroccan Essaouira is well above standard. Not only will you find a place you, the bathrooms won’t scare where room a character-laden you’ll probably get as well. and terrace BUDGET eclectic mix of Andalusian music, art and dance by local and international performers. Sleeping Accommodation in Essaouira isn’t cheap now a seeminglybut there’s endless selec- properties to choose from at all price tion of within the and riads are levels. Most hotels the medina, so everything you walls of need In sum- is within walking distance. early in mer book ahead or at least arrive the medina gets the day to find a room. As being built are crowded, hotels increasingly along the coast further south and on the seafront. Festival des Andalousies AtlantiquesFestival Gnaoua and World Music Festival

Essaouira has three major festivals that that festivals major Essaouira has three and spectators performers draw hoards of town. to Printemps Musical des Alizés Festivals & Events & EventsFestivals companies offer cross-country trekking and and trekking cross-country offer companies around the countryside rides in multi-day horse trips can be Essaouira. Tailor-made ), p166 through Rancharranged de Diabat ( riding lessons for adults also offers which and children. lonelyplanet.com 785962; [email protected]; Douar Al Arab; per r Dh190-330) hr Dh 110, per day incl lunch Dh380, 743497; www.abouda-safar.com) mote guest housemote to eight that is home hari weeklong camel-riding guest house offers and a selection excursions shorter courses, out in vibrant peaceful rooms decked of and electric-blue. fuchsia-pink Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST Dh825/990) .lacasa-delmar.com; 35RueD’Oujda;dinclbreakfast and relax. Retire toyour room,jointhe simple atmosphere where you can sitback traditional styleand creates astunningyet lessly blendscontemporary designwith d’Algerie;www.lallamira.net; s/d/steDh436/692/920; d’Algerie;www.lallamira.net; place withanexcellentrestaurant. buckets of character. It’safriendly,cheerful throwsoncast-ironbedsand walls, bright more colourfulwithpink,green andblue GrandLargeismuchriads intown,Le whitewash andmuted colours of many ian food. of aselection vegetar-restaurant serving a great hammam(see p160 ) andagood ing. Thehotel alsohasanti-allergy beds, fabrics andsolar-powered underfloorheat- elakt eco-hotel, hassimpleroomswithochre This gorgeous littleplace,thetown’sfirst than thenext. placeismore Each in Essaouira. charming In thispricerange you’llbespoiltforchoice MIDRANGE views over themedina. sheltered terrace fromwhere you’llget good onthe less bathrooms.Breakfast isserved white walls,lovely localfabricsandspot- cheerful colours. Theroomsallhave plain surrounding acentralcourtyardpainted in 162 .com; 63 Rue Touahen; dDh600-770,steDh880) .com; 63RueTouahen; guest bythetimeyouleave. you’ll feel more like familythanapaying isincrediblythan ahotel. friendly– Thestaff touches thatmake it feel like ahomerather niture, restrained muted colours andlittle beautifulfur-rooms withsubtlelighting, lovingly restored hasjustafew house comfy overlooking theoceanare magnificent. the wallsandviewsfromterrace spreads Localartworksadorn andcurtains. green oryellowinthetraditionalbed- ture andacontrasting touch of blue,pink, with plainwhite furni- walls,wrought-iron arerooms attheAl-Bahar elegantlysimple, half board per person extra Dh140) half boardperpersonextra rDh495-715, 2RueOum-Rabia; .riadlegrandlarge.com; bahar.com; 1 Rue Touahen; dDh550-850,steDh1045) bahar.com; 1RueTouahen; Dar Al-Bahar Dar Al-Bahar Le GrandLarge Lalla Mira La Casa delMar La Casa Dar Adul SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Essaouira walls, wrought-iron furniture, walls,wrought-iron natural Delightful guest house thatseam- guesthouse Delightful

Mp p156; (Map

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(Map p156 ; p156 ; (Map Mp p156; (Map x x 024 473910;www.dar-adul x 024 476831;www.daral After thesimple x x 024 475046;14Rue 024 472866;www 024 475091;www This The tad- i ) 5 RueYoussefel-Fassi; dDh1240-1670,steDh1835; son by Londoninterior decoratorEmmaWil- centre of waslovingly Essaouira, restored in the right the‘White House’ can house, stunning 18th-centurytraditional Moroc- vie forattention. prints, darkwoodsandmarblecounter tops ing trip,andinthebedroomswhere zebra trophy headsfromalong-forgotten hunt- lounge, where agrandpianositsbeneath ropean styleandcolonialcharm inthe meet private cinemaandbilliardroom.ChicEu- from arooftop swimmingpooltoitsown want, youcouldever place haseverything tophotel. ThisswishBleue, Essaouira’s thedoorsas youwalkthrough of theHeure with sweeping viewsofwith sweeping thebay. The upstairs roomshave alarge terrace private furniture. terraces androsewood rooms have subtledecor,brasshandbasins, Thespacious,bright calm runthroughout. neutral colours of andaprofound sense pared-back minimalism,designerfurniture, Ivoryandsand traditional house. offers luxurious,contemporary roomsina stylishandvery,Sleek, very slick,Madada Madada TOP END terrace. fromtheseafrontjust watch thesunset orhennaartist, visit fromamasseur meal orSpanish paella,arrange ahome other guestsforacommunalMoroccan three-bedroomed formerBritish consulate. forthegrand ment uptoDh3000pernight foraone-bedabout Dh500pernight apart- able andflexibleoption.Pricesrange from family orinagroup,theycanbeanafford- impeccable style. Ifyou’re travelling asa ments andriadstorent, mostdoneupin hasagreat ofEssaouira selection apart- APARTMENTS &RIADS Dh2200/3900; 2RueIbnBatouta;d/stewww.heure-bleue.com; two living roomswithlots of books and the best one ontheupper roof terrace, and bedrooms, markets. hasseveral Thehouse 1950 and’60sfurniture found inlocaljunk incl maid,firewood &babouchesperpersonfrom Dh3300) 00 4407768352190;www.castlesinthesand.com; perweek o Palais Bleue Heure ( see see p158

Mp p156; (Map Dar Beida asi ) andherhusband withiconic Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels x

Mp p156; (Map 024 475512;www.madada.com;

) Mp p156; (Map A decidedhushfalls lonelyplanet.com x x 067 965386,UK 024 474222; tadelakt a A ) ,

ATLANTIC COAST

163 024 476819; (a spread (a spread x boulettes de de boulettes 024 783934; Blvd This popular This popular x amlou Although a good Although a good

024 479000; Blvd Moham- (Map p156 ;

024 476407; 2 Rue de la Skala; x 024 784726; 5 Rue Youssef el- The roof terrace at the terrace The roof x (Map p156 ; Place Chefchaouni) salads and has plenty of salads and has plenty of

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8am-11pm Mon-Sat) SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Essaouira Essaouira •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH Côté Plage Le 5 Café d’Horloge Restaurante Les Alizés comfy seats the kids in the sand from where can run free. h place, run by a charming Moroccan couple place, run by a charming in a 19th-century house, has delicious Mo- the couscous roccan dishes, particularly of with fish and the tajine sardines ahead as it fills Book well friendly welcome. up every night, both with Moroccans and Smar. Pension It’s above visitors. Set on the attractive square beneath the beneath the Set square on the attractive clocktower, this popular café is an excellent of for a breakfast choice Fassi; Dh180; Fassi; across the road, this beachfront café has a across the road, this beachfront you can where area nice and elegant decked umbrel- giant white sit beneath the shade of las. You can nibble on tapas (Dh35) as you or the ocean for the afternoon look out over on Sunday for the all-day barbecue. arrive Deep-purple seating, warm stone arches Deep-purple seating, warm stone arches this trendy and giant lampshades dominate serves which restaurant and well-cooked and Moroccan original Mediterranean places to head the favourite dishes. One of for dinner. Taros is a wonderful place for afternoon is a wonderful place for afternoon Taros The salons in this beautifully restored tea. lined with artworks. house are med V; mains Dh150) CAFÉS, PÂTISSERIES & ICE-CREAM CAFÉS, PÂTISSERIES & ICE-CREAM PARLOURS Café Taros Beachfront Ocean Vagabond owner of this old house this old main the off just of owner talk to loves and is super-friendly, street found all the iconic 1950s he about where from he has collected and ’60s furniture decor is sublime, The local junk markets. it in London or New York, and if it were the hippest place in town. would be voted walk from town, this simple little café is the It serves offerings. the beachfront best of sandwiches, of range a decent but limited pizza, pasta and 26 Rue de la Skala; mains Dh75-90) Mohammed V; mains Dh60-90)

024 473655; Set in a 024 475538; 024 475538; 024 475308; 3 x x x 024 473561; 113 Rue 024 473561; 113 Rue 024 472103; 1 Rue Aga- 024 474500; www.karimo x x (Map p156 ; (Map p156 ;

x

( Map p156 ; both have a good se- both have

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Elizir noon-3pm & 6.30pm-late Mon-Sat)

Karimo h closed Mon) Restaurant Ferdaous Jack’s Apartments Restaurant El-Minzah

o .net; Place Moulay Hassan) .net; Place Moulay rant, and one of the few places in town places in town the few rant, and one of that serves traditional home-cooked, real, Moroccan food. The seasonal menu offers recipes, on traditional take an innovative the service friendly and the low ta- is very bles and padded seating like it feel make McCoy. the real Sit on the outside terrace or in the elegant Sit on the outside terrace dining room inside at this popular place a facing the ramparts. The menu features with dishes international good selection of and Berber as blue shark specialities such lively oil, and there’s with argan tajine nights. on Saturday Gnawa music here and dir; mains Dh80-90) Mohammed el-Qory; mains Dh45-95, set menu Dh90- Mohammed el-Qory; mains Dh45-95, 130; h 27 Rue Abdesslam Lebadi; mains Dh60-80, set menu Dh105; 27 Rue Abdesslam Lebadi; Riad Al-Baraka Medina Medina

Essaouira is packed with cafés and restau- Essaouira is packed no difficulty finding some- rants so there’s to eat. However,standards the vary where substantially. Eating RESTAURANTS CDs, and a large terrace. This is definitely definitely This is terrace. and a large CDs, Essaouira. to be in the place is Dar Emma tradi- more houseEmma’s other for rent, comfortabletional but equally and funky. www.essaouira.com/apartments;Place Moulay Hassan) 1 Book well in properties. rental lection of advance during the high season. lonelyplanet.com by far, this place was temporarily closed closed by far, this place was temporarily hopefully but will research, at the time of soon. The Elizir servesreopen a perfectly Moroccan and Mediterra- mix of cooked twist. The nean dishes with an innovative Ave Oqba ben Nafii; mains Dh50-120, set menus from Dh95) Ave former Jewish school, this hip place has this hip place has school, former Jewish several dining rooms and a bar set around fig tree. by a huge courtyard shaded a large The food is mainly Moroccan with some influences, the Middle Eastern and Jewish music by local live decor cool, and there’s bands at weekends. Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at ATLANTIC COAST area, and (Map p156 ), which hasahiddenseating pastry thebestplacestogoare juices andagoodbreakfast (Dh80). upmarket of selection teas, coffee, fresh an on thispicturesque square thatserves Zerktouni and just inside Bab Doukkala. andjustinsideBab Zerktouni Ave SidiMohammed benAbdallah, Ave p154 ) andhole-in-the-walltypeplacesalong forDh30. salad withbread andback cooked andserved inthesoutherncorner.stands It’llcome day’s catch andtake ittooneof thegrill Taros Café in town, andtheonlyreal bar, isatthe scoop andthebestyou’llfindintown. place onthemainsquare. It’sjustDh5a find ithardtoresist atthislittle temptation icecreamthentic Italian onoffer, you’ll Café Restaurant BabLaachour Restaurant Café down. Alternatively, trytheterrace atthe to yourhotel terrace towatch thesungo Doukkalaandtakenear Bab yourdrinks you couldvisitthealcohol shop(Map p156 ) nightlife. out, Towarmupforan evening tion, isn’tthehottest placeforEssaouira Despite itspopularityasatouristdestina- Drinking (Map p156 ; justoffAve del’Istiqlal) cooked onthespot. about Dh40forlunch) andwaitforittobe each grill, agree onaprice(expecttopay ourful displaysof fresh at fishandseafood what youwanttoeatfromthecol- choose the portendof PlaceMoulayHassan. Just the One of bestfoodexperiencesis Essaouira’s QUICK EATS snack. and agoodchoice foraquietcoffee or the hoardsof peopleonthemain cafédrag and crepes orbread (Dh25).It’sawayfrom made of localargan oil,almondandhoney) 164 Hassan) Moulay Hassan) auGrains) Place duMarché Place MoulayHassan. For morning croissants oranafternoonFor morningcroissants There are plentyof (Map snackstands One of themost atmosphericterraces BonheurdesDames Au Alternatively, youcanvisitthe DolceFreddo Gelateria SOUTHOFCASABLANCA••Essaouira outdoor Withmore than30varietiesof au- Mp p156 ; (Map Café FaidCafé

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try doum palm.Forthemoststylishdesigns, work,madefromthefibresraffia of the queteurs queteurs shopping trythe from otherwoodsinstead. Forfixed-price a guilt-free consciencelookforcraftsmade therefore For encouragingillegallogging. ofstands trees byincreasing demandand from thuyathreatens thelastremaining at excellentprices,buyinganythingmade theproductsarethough beautifulandsold which isnow anendangered species.Al- is madefromlocalfragrantthuyawood, Ville. Theexquisite marquetryworkonsale workshops and youcanvisitthestringof iswellknownforitswoodwork Essaouira Shopping h d’Agadir) like. all of them before finding somethingyou to look in bag of andyoumayneed talent worksbylocal painters.sell It’samixed galleriesaroundtown ists hub,andseveral gold. beadstogaudy thing fromheavy Berber small area of jewelleryshopswithevery- for baldnessandexoticspices,the bar andrestaurant ropean outlets. nights. it haslive musicandbellydancingmost to Dh120) Therestaurantfrom thesea. (mainsDh70 tofendyour table thewindwhippingup off drinks undergiantlampsandhuddleround restaurant (mainsDh85toDh150). of grilledfishcomingfromthecanopied betempted even you might bythewhiff (Dh35)tojustsitanddrinkor some tapas tobuy and ablackmirrorball.You’llneed a candlelitdenwithblood-red furnishings 474166; 28 Rue Moulay Rachid; 474166; 28RueMoulayRachid; 784446; www.galeriedamgaard.com; RueOqba benNafi) 784446; www.galeriedamgaard.com; Nearby isthe traditional buy argan-oil productshere aswellthe (Map p156 ) istheplacetogo. Youcanalso Essaouira’s othergreatEssaouira’s productisits Essaouira alsohasareputationEssaouira as anart- lipstick,cures For herbalViagra,Berber For somethingmore sultry,thehip 8am-11pm Mon-Sat) Rafia Craft Rafia Galeries Frederic Damgaard Frederic Galeries , which sells much, which of sells itslinetoEu-

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SOUTH OF CASABLANCA •• Essaouira Essaouira •• CASABLANCA OF SOUTH Local bus 5 to Diabat (Dh4) and Sidi and Sidi (Dh4) Local bus 5 to Diabat Supratours Kaouki (Dh6) leaves from Blvd Moulay Blvd Moulay from (Dh6) leaves Kaouki are Youssef There outside Bab Doukkala. about eight services a day. subsidiary, runs buses to Marrakesh train runs busessubsidiary, to Marrakesh to con- four daily) station 2½ hours, (Dh80, to Casablancanect with trains the sta- from book You should tion near Bab Marrakesh. several advance for this service, days in par- ticularly in summer. TAXI TAXI ) lies im- p154 The grand-taxi rank (off Map the bus station. The fare west of mediately is Dh75. (or Inezgane) to Agadir Getting Around bus 5 (Dh10, 15 to the airport take get To or a petit taximinutes) (Dh150 to Dh200). also a good idea for The blue petits taxis are bus station to and from the (Dh10) getting If you’re the medina. but they can’t enter happy to walk but don’t want to carry your men enterprising plenty of are bags, there carts who will wheelwith luggage your bags (about Dh20). to your hotel directly well as to Taroudannt (Dh70, six hours), hours), (Dh70, six to Taroudannt well as and Rabat six hours) (Dh130, Tan Tan (Dh90, six hours).

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Aéroport de Mogador The tree, tree, The The Berbers have long used argan oil to heal, but modern research suggests that the oil may suggests that the oil may research oil to heal, but modern long used argan Berbers have The bus station

x ( help reduce cholesterol and prevent arteriosclerosis. The oil also has a high vitamin E content, vitamin E content, oil also has a high The arteriosclerosis. and prevent cholesterol help reduce In the kitchen anti-wrinkle cream. its rich and sweet nutty flavour works which makes it a great mix it with ground Berbers or tajine. or added to grilled vegetables wonders as a salad dressing, almonds and honey to make of Agadir, whose organic oil won the 2001 Slow Food Award. whose organic of Agadir, Organic argan oil is ‘the new olive oil’, increasingly used in hip restaurants around the world to around the world to used in hip restaurants oil’, increasingly oil is ‘the new olive argan Organic is unique to this part tree of the world wrinkled argan The season salads with its nutty flavour. and the Haha Coast south of Essaouira of the Souss Valley forests the argan and, as a result, reserve. by Unesco as a Biosphere been designated recently have THE NEW OLIVE OIL THE NEW OLIVE OIL It has become vital to essential tool in the fight against desertification in southern Morocco. see them actually fodder for the goats – you can climb firewood, the local economy, providing Berber women harvest the fruits in spring and then into the branches – and oil for humans. the tough elastic coating on the shell. The juices dissolve them to goats, whose digestive feed pulped split, lightly toasted, from the goats’ dung, and the kernels are then recovered nuts are of oil takes 30kg of nuts and 15 hours of manual labour, To produce just one litre and pressed. decided to have change to this tradition, some cooperatives solely done by women. In a recent hand-picking to produce a more cut the goats out of the process and are fruits from the trees subtle-tasting at the oil. You can see this whole process in a guided tour Other companies run cheaper and more and more Other companies run cheaper CTM

d’Agadir) Safi (Dh45, 2½ hours), El-Jadida (Dh85, four El-Jadida Safi (Dh45, 2½ hours), and Casablancahours) (Dh125, six hours), The (Dh75, 2½ hours). and one to Marrakesh continues hours) (Dh70, three bus to Agadir to Inezgane (Dh70). It’s best to book a day in advance for long-distance services. buses to the samefrequent destinations as feature up-and-coming artists. up-and-coming artists. feature 475095; 9 Rue Mohammed Layachi; 475095; 9 Rue Mohammed schedule is unreliable. schedule about 400m northeast of the medina, an an the medina, of about 400m northeast in a day but better easy walk during the arriving/leaving petit taxi (Dh10) if you’re at night.late The item) is open 24 hours. item) The BUS

Direct flights to Casablanca and Paris leave leave flights to CasablancaDirect and Paris from Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR the best and oldest in town and features the features in town and and oldest the best the artists. Nearby, local of work des ArtsTilal Plastiques lonelyplanet.com Rue de Caire) ATLANTIC COAST dlelight (there’sdlelight noelectricityonthe prop- has itsownopenfireplace andislitbycan- The roomshere are each chic butspartan, p154; the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake 900) dhalfboardperpersonDh700- www.auberge-tangaro.com; ( or joinatrekking tourat andtouristcomplex. golf course the site of amajor project foranewmarina, by JimiHendrix intheearly ’70s.Todayitis ony madepopularwithhippiesafter avisit of wasonceadope-smokingcol- Essaouira, village of Berber The sleepy Diabat, just south Diabat Try foodstuffs. argan products,naturalcosmeticsand cooperatives thatsell aroundEssaouira atriptooneoftaking thesmallwomen’s If youhave yourowntransport,it’sworth AROUND ESSAOUIRA day Dh80). p156; (Map 166 © LonelyPlanetPublications day trip Dh3500/6000). day trip at the of Tamanar thewholeargan process tosee of all,travelvisit. Best southtothevillage hasafulllistofThe touristoffice placesto x ine road toMarrakesh or the also has an office attheairport. also hasanoffice around Dh400perday. bet istherustic thesurroundingcountryside.trip through along thebeach orsignupforamulti-day razed per dayDh80) x Cars canbehiredCars from You canhire bikes from The mainreason tovisitishire ahorse If you want to stay inDiabat,yourbest If youwanttostay

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