Lonely Planet at Home

Recipes

1 Lonely Planet at Home In light of the Covid-19 pandemic, we’re all going to be spending a lot more time at home. Why not get inventive in the kitchen and rustle up some of the world’s most lip- smackingly good cuisine from simple store cupboard ingredients?

Featuring fantastic (and simple) recipes from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks, From the Source: France, The World’s Best Bowl Food, The World’s Best Spicy Food, and The World’s Best Superfoods, be inspired to cook up a storm in your kitchen with recipes from all over the globe.

2 Contents Porridge from The World’s Best Bowl Food 3-4 Shakshuka from The World’s Best Spicy Food 5-6 Detox acai bowl from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 7-8 Goat’s cheese, honey and walnut toasted sandwich from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 9-10 Sesame tofu buddha bowl from The World’s Best Bowl Food 11-12 Nasi goreng from The World’s Best Bowl Food 13-14 Macaroni and cheese from The World’s Best Bowl Food 15-16 Pasta all’arrabbiata from The World’s Best Spicy Food 17-18 Risi e bisi from The World’s Best Bowl Food 19-20 Jollof rice from The World’s Best Spicy Food 21-22 Enchiladas from The World’s Best Spicy Food 23-24 Jerusalem spiced chicken from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 25-26 Middle eastern potato salad from The World’s Best Superfoods 27-28 Chicken tikka from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 29-30 Cullen skink from The World’s Best Superfoods 31-32 Bubble and squeak with poached eggs from The World’s Best Superfoods 33-34 Ratatouille from From the Source France 35-36 Vegetable and chickpea shepherd’s pie from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 37-38 Boeuf bourguignon from The World’s Best Bowl Food 39-40 Chilli con carne from The World’s Best Bowl Food 41-42 Gekikara ramen from The World’s Best Spicy Food 43-44 Chana masala from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 45-46 Red velvet cookies from Around the World in 80 Food Trucks 47-48

3 BREAKFASTBREAKFAST BOWLS BOWLS

SERVES 2 SERVES 2

IRELANDIRELAND PorridgePorridge Possibly Possiblythe world's the oldestworld's bowl oldest food, bowl porridge food, porridge is a blend is a blend of oats andof oats milk andthat milk has thattransformed has transformed itself from itself gruel from gruel of the impoverishedof the impoverished masses to masses hipster to health hipster kick. health kick.

You’ll You’llneed need MethodMethod ½ cup oats½ cup oats 1 Place the1 Placeoats in the a pan oats with in a the pan milk, with waterthe milk, and water salt. and salt. ½ cup milk½ cup milk OriginsOrigins 1 cup water1 cup water 2 Cook slowly2 Cook over slowly a gentle over heat a gentle for 5-10 heat minutes, for 5-10 stirring minutes, stirring

The cold, dampThe climate cold, damp and climate and pinch of saltpinch of salt regularly toregularly prevent to sticking. prevent sticking. poor soil madepoor it difficultsoil made to it difficult to brown sugarbrown sugar cultivate wheatcultivate in ancient wheat in ancient 3 Ladle into3 Ladle bowls into and bowls sprinkle and with sprinkle brown with sugar brown or your sugar or your Ireland but oatsIreland thrived, but oatsand thrived, and favourite toppings.favourite toppings. when combinedwhen with combined the Irish with the Irish love of all thingslove dairy, of all porridgethings dairy, porridge was born. Ofwas course born. the Of course the Scots (and numerousScots (and others) numerous others) also lay claimalso to inventing lay claim to inventing TastingTasting notes notes this time-honouredthis time-honoured dish but dish but A low-fat,A low-GI, low-fat, cholesterol-lowering low-GI, cholesterol-lowering wonder, you wonder, could you make could a case make for a porridge case for asporridge the as the whatever its whateverorigins, it's its a origins, it's a original superfood.original superfood. One of its One superpowers: of its superpowers: on a winter on morning a winter so morning cold and so darkcold youand candark you can warming, early-morningwarming, early-morning belly belly barely forcebarely yourself force out yourself of bed, out it ofembraces bed, it embraces you like a youwarm like blanket a warm and blanket sets youand up sets for you up for filler, immortalisedfiller, immortalised in fairy in fairy tales and belovedtales andby farmers, beloved by farmers, the day. Onethe ofday. its One real of joys its isreal its joysversatility, is its versatility, and you can and pimp you canyour pimp porridge your withporridge any with any athletes and athleteshealth gurus and healthfor its gurus for its number ofnumber enhancements: of enhancements: honey or maplehoney orsyrup, maple cream syrup, or creamGreek yoghurt,or Greek blueberriesyoghurt, blueberries or or simplicity, subtlesimplicity, nutty flavoursubtle nutty flavour banana, stewedbanana, fruit, stewed cinnamon, fruit, cinnamon, pumpkin orpumpkin chia seeds. or chia Whether seeds. youWhether use rolled you use oats rolled or oats or and slow releaseand slowof energy. release of energy. pinhead oatmealpinhead is oatmeal purely ais matter purely ofa matter taste, theof taste, only difference the only difference is that the is finer that thethe fineroats, the oats, the

© PIERRE LECLERC; MALIVAN_IULIIA / SHUTTERSTOCK, © ARX0NT / GETTY IMAGES smoother© PIERRE LECLERC; MALIVAN_IULIIA / SHUTTERSTOCK, © ARX0NT / GETTY IMAGES smoother the texture. the ● texture. by Etain O’Carroll● by Etain O’Carroll

3 23 23 BREAKFAST BOWLS

SERVES 2

IRELAND Porridge Possibly the world's oldest bowl food, porridge is a blend of oats and milk that has transformed itself from gruel of the impoverished masses to hipster health kick.

You’ll need Method ½ cup oats 1 Place the oats in a pan with the milk, water and salt. ½ cup milk Origins 1 cup water 2 Cook slowly over a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes, stirring

The cold, damp climate and pinch of salt regularly to prevent sticking. poor soil made it difficult to brown sugar cultivate wheat in ancient 3 Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with brown sugar or your Ireland but oats thrived, and favourite toppings. when combined with the Irish love of all things dairy, porridge was born. Of course the Scots (and numerous others) also lay claim to inventing Tasting notes this time-honoured dish but A low-fat, low-GI, cholesterol-lowering wonder, you could make a case for porridge as the whatever its origins, it's a original superfood. One of its superpowers: on a winter morning so cold and dark you can warming, early-morning belly barely force yourself out of bed, it embraces you like a warm blanket and sets you up for filler, immortalised in fairy tales and beloved by farmers, the day. One of its real joys is its versatility, and you can pimp your porridge with any athletes and health gurus for its number of enhancements: honey or maple syrup, cream or Greek yoghurt, blueberries or simplicity, subtle nutty flavour banana, stewed fruit, cinnamon, pumpkin or chia seeds. Whether you use rolled oats or and slow release of energy. pinhead oatmeal is purely a matter of taste, the only difference is that the finer the oats, the

4 23 DISHES DISHES

SERVES 4 SERVES 4

You’ll need You’ll need TUNISIA TUNISIA 3 tbs olive oil 3 tbs olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and 1 large onion, peeled and chopped chopped Shakshouka Shakshouka 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and 2 cloves of garlic, peeled andEssentially eggs poached in a molten mound of spicy tomato Essentially eggs poached in a molten mound of spicy tomato minced minced stew that comes in many different variations, shakshouka is the stew that comes in many different variations, shakshouka is the 3 red capsicums, diced 3 red capsicums, diced ultimate wake-me-up throughout North Africa and the Middle East. ultimate wake-me-up throughout North Africa and the Middle East. 1 red chilli, chopped 1 red chilli, chopped 2 tsp caraway seeds 2 tsp caraway seeds 750g (1½lb) fresh tomatoes, 750g (1½lb) freshMethod tomatoes, Method peeled, seeded and peeled, seeded1 Heat and the oil to a medium-sized frying pan 4 Make shallow wells in the sauce for the eggs 1 Heat the oil to a medium-sized frying pan 4 Make shallow wells in the sauce for the eggs chopped (tinned tomatoes chopped (tinnedover tomatoes medium-high heat. Saute the onion and (you can use the back of a spoon). Carefully over medium-high heat. Saute the onion and (you can use the back of a spoon). Carefully can be substituted) can be substituted)garlic for about 5 minutes, until soft. break in the eggs. garlic for about 5 minutes, until soft. break in the eggs. 2–3 tsp paprika 2–3 tsp paprika 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground cumin2 Add the capsicum, chilli and caraway 5 Cover the pan and cook the eggs over a low 2 Add the capsicum, chilli and caraway 5 Cover the pan and cook the eggs over a low 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp sea salt seeds. Saute until the capsicum is tender heat. For soft yolks, allow around 5 minutes. seeds. Saute until the capsicum is tender heat. For soft yolks, allow around 5 minutes. 1–2 tbs harissa (optional) 1–2 tbs harissa (about(optional) 5 minutes). If you wish, you can swirl the sauce into the (about 5 minutes). If you wish, you can swirl the sauce into the 4 large eggs 4 large eggs egg whites as they cook, being careful not to egg whites as they cook, being careful not to Fresh crusty bread to serve Fresh crusty bread3 Add to the serve tomatoes, paprika, cumin, salt and damage the yolks. 3 Add the tomatoes, paprika, cumin, salt and damage the yolks. harissa (if using). Bring to a boil then reduce harissa (if using). Bring to a boil then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring 6 Serve with fresh crusty bread. the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring 6 Serve with fresh crusty bread. occasionally, for about 15 minutes. occasionally, for about 15 minutes. Origins Origins

Some claim it was introduced Some claim it was introduced to North Africa by the Ottoman to North Africa by the Ottoman Turks, but shakshouka is Turks, but shakshouka is commonly acknowledged as commonly acknowledged as being Tunisian in origin. It’s being Tunisian in origin. It’s certainly likely that in Israel, certainly likelyTasting that in Israel, notes Tasting notes where the dish is enormously where the dishWho is enormously needs coffee when spice can get the synapses firing in the morning? Shakshouka is a Who needs coffee when spice can get the synapses firing in the morning? Shakshouka is a popular, shakshouka first arrived popular, shakshoukavisual first treat arrived as well as a savoury one – try making it yourself to watch the eggs turn opaque visual treat as well as a savoury one – try making it yourself to watch the eggs turn opaque thanks to the immigration of thanks to the immigration of Tunisian Jews in the mid-20th Tunisian Jews inand the startmid-20th googling up at you from the pan. But don’t break the yolks! That’s a pleasure to and start googling up at you from the pan. But don’t break the yolks! That’s a pleasure to century. It’s a simple concept, century. It’s a simplereserve concept, for the eating: experience the gradual merging of tastes as the wholesome, rich yolk reserve for the eating: experience the gradual merging of tastes as the wholesome, rich yolk remarkably similar to Mexican remarkably similarmixes to Mexican with its spicy surrounds, cutting through the acidity while taking on all the pep of the mixes with its spicy surrounds, cutting through the acidity while taking on all the pep of the huevos rancheros. huevos rancheros. chillies and paprika. Be sure to have some fresh, crusty bread on the side; use it to mix the chillies and paprika. Be sure to have some fresh, crusty bread on the side; use it to mix the SARKA BABICKA; RICHARD I’ANSON © GETTY IMAGES colours, textures and delightful flavours of this warming, invigorating dish.● by Kate WhitfieldSARKA BABICKA; RICHARD I’ANSON © GETTY IMAGES colours, textures and delightful flavours of this warming, invigorating dish.● by Kate Whitfield

5 156 156 157 157 DISHES DISHES

SERVES 4 SERVES 4

You’ll needYou’ll need TUNISIA TUNISIA 3 tbs olive oil3 tbs olive oil 1 large onion,1 peeledlarge onion, and peeled and chopped chopped ShakshoukaShakshouka 2 cloves of garlic,2 cloves peeled of garlic, and peeled and Essentially Essentiallyeggs poached eggs in poached a molten in mound a molten of spicymound tomato of spicy tomato minced minced stew that comesstew that in many comes different in many variations, different variations,shakshouka shakshouka is the is the 3 red capsicums,3 red diced capsicums, diced ultimate wake-me-upultimate wake-me-up throughout throughout North Africa North and theAfrica Middle and theEast. Middle East. 1 red chilli, chopped1 red chilli, chopped 2 tsp caraway2 seedstsp caraway seeds 750g (1½lb) fresh750g tomatoes,(1½lb) fresh tomatoes, Method Method peeled, seededpeeled, and seeded and 1 Heat the oil1 toHeat a medium-sized the oil to a medium-sized frying pan frying4 Makepan shallow4 Make wells shallow in the sauce wells infor the the sauce eggs for the eggs chopped (tinnedchopped tomatoes (tinned tomatoes over medium-highover medium-high heat. Saute theheat. onion Saute and the onion(you andcan use(you the backcan use of athe spoon). back ofCarefully a spoon). Carefully can be substituted)can be substituted) garlic for aboutgarlic 5 minutes, for about until 5 minutes, soft. until soft. break in the breakeggs. in the eggs. 2–3 tsp paprika2–3 tsp paprika 1 tsp ground 1cumin tsp ground cumin 2 Add the capsicum,2 Add the chilli capsicum, and caraway chilli and caraway5 Cover the 5pan Cover and thecook pan the and eggs cook over the a loweggs over a low 1 tsp sea salt1 tsp sea salt seeds. Sauteseeds. until the Saute capsicum until the is tendercapsicum is tenderheat. For softheat. yolks, For allow soft around yolks, allow 5 minutes. around 5 minutes. 1–2 tbs harissa1–2 (optional) tbs harissa (optional) (about 5 minutes).(about 5 minutes). If you wish, youIf you can wish, swirl you the can sauce swirl into the the sauce into the 4 large eggs 4 large eggs egg whites asegg they whites cook, as being they carefulcook, being not to careful not to Fresh crustyFresh bread crusty to serve bread to serve 3 Add the tomatoes,3 Add the paprika, tomatoes, cumin, paprika, salt and cumin, damagesalt and the damageyolks. the yolks. harissa (if using).harissa Bring (if using).to a boil Bring then to reduce a boil then reduce the heat to medium-lowthe heat to medium-low and cook, stirring and cook, stirring6 Serve with6 fresh Serve crusty with freshbread. crusty bread. occasionally,occasionally, for about 15 forminutes. about 15 minutes. Origins Origins

Some claim it wasSome introduced claim it was introduced to North Africa byto theNorth Ottoman Africa by the Ottoman Turks, but shakshoukaTurks, butis shakshouka is commonly acknowledgedcommonly as acknowledged as being Tunisian inbeing origin. Tunisian It’s in origin. It’s certainly likely thatcertainly in Israel, likely that in Israel, Tasting notesTasting notes where the dish iswhere enormously the dish is enormously Who needs coffeeWho needs when coffee spice canwhen get spice the synapsescan get the firing synapses in the firingmorning? in the Shakshouka morning? Shakshoukais a is a popular, shakshouka first arrived popular, shakshouka first arrived visual treat asvisual well treat as a savouryas well as one a savoury – try making one – it try yourself making to it watch yourself the to eggs watch turn the opaque eggs turn opaque thanks to the immigrationthanks to theof immigration of Tunisian Jews in Tunisianthe mid-20th Jews in the mid-20th and start googlingand start up googlingat you from up atthe you pan. from But the don’t pan. break But don’tthe yolks! break That’s the yolks! a pleasure That’s to a pleasure to century. It’s a simplecentury. concept, It’s a simple concept, reserve for thereserve eating: for experience the eating: theexperience gradual mergingthe gradual of tastes merging as theof tastes wholesome, as the wholesome,rich yolk rich yolk remarkably similar to Mexican remarkably similar to Mexican mixes with itsmixes spicy with surrounds, its spicy cutting surrounds, through cutting the throughacidity while the acidity taking whileon all takingthe pep on of all the the pep of the huevos rancheros.huevos rancheros. chillies and paprika.chillies and Be surepaprika. to have Be sure some to fresh, have somecrusty fresh, bread crusty on the bread side; onuse the it toside; mix use the it to mix the SARKA BABICKA; RICHARD I’ANSON © GETTY IMAGES SARKA BABICKA; RICHARD I’ANSON © GETTY IMAGES colours, texturescolours, and textures delightful and flavours delightful of thisflavours warming, of this invigorating warming, invigoratingdish.● by Kate dish. Whitfield● by Kate Whitfield

6 156 156 157 157 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

at room temp for 10 minutes or How to make it run it under some water to thaw. DETOX açai BOWL SERVES 4 AÇAI CORNER, PERTH, AUSTRALIA 3. Spoon the açai blitz into a Ingredients bowl of your choosing. This energising food truck was For the base: founded in 2016 on the beaches 2 packs of natural, 4. Spoon the granola, coconut, of Perth, Australia, but the real unsweetened açai cacao nibs and chia seeds on story started when Maddie and ½ banana top of the acai base. Andrew Russell quit their jobs to travel slowly 1 handful of mango chunks through South America. After spending a month in 1 cup of coconut water 5. Arrange the fruits to your Cuba with very little fresh fruit or vegetables, liking (we like banana and they sat down at a cafe in Copacabana in Rio de For the topping: strawberry alternating around Janeiro and had a freshly squeezed orange juice ½ cup granola (ideally the outside and then blueberries and a bowl of açai. They had never had this food homemade) and passionfruit towards the before, didn’t know how to pronounce it or what 1 tbs of dry coconut centre). But there are no rules! it really was, but it was the first time in so 2 tsp cacao nibs Have fun with the topping and long that they felt nourished. And so the two 1 tsp chia seeds get creative. scrapped their plans to head south and instead ½ banana flew into the Amazon rainforest. There they 3 strawberries scaled açai palm trees, shared meals, stories 5 blueberries and laughter with the harvesters, traversed the 1 tbs of passion fruit Amazon River, embraced the chaotic açai markets before dawn, toured the factories where açai is Method produced and ate (a lot of) the powerful berry. 1. Put the açai, banana, mango Though tricky to pronounce (‘ah-sigh-ee’) the and coconut water into a berry is hailed as one of the most antioxidant blender. rich foods on the planet. Açai Corner has an extensive range of natural açai bowls, but the 2. Blend until smooth in Detox Açai Bowl is still their best seller. consistency – watch it doesn’t go too far as you want to retain a thick creamy, not watery, consistency. Hint: If the açai is Follow them on too hard when you remove it from the freezer, either leave out Instagram: www.instagram.com/theacaicorner PHOTOGRAPHY LOCKSMITH © 82

7 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

8 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

How to make it 4. Heat a cast-iron skillet or a Goat’s cheese, heavy frying pan on a low– SERVES 2 medium heat. honey & walnut Ingredients 5. Place the sandwich buttered 50g (13/4oz) good-quality side down in the skillet/pan salted butter and keep applying pressure toasted sandwich 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, or weight to the top while it’s leaves finely chopped cooking. After about 4 minutes, THE CHEESE TRUCK, LONDON, UK 4 slices of sourdough bread flip the sandwich and cook on 180g (6¼oz) soft fresh goat’s the other side. Mastering the oozy art of melted cheese (The Cheese Truck sandwich fillings, The Cheese uses Rosary goat’s cheese 6. When both sides are golden Truck’s golden 1970s Bedford CF van from Salisbury, UK) brown and the cheese is oozing is a welcome beacon for hungover 40g (11/2oz) walnut pieces out, you’re done! eyes. Founder Mathew Carver had quit university 50g (13/4oz) wild honey to do a bit of music festival catering, but it wasn’t until a 2013 trip to the USA, where he Method fell for the food truck scene, that an idea took 1. Melt the butter in a small pan, hold. He realised the queues at grilled cheese add the rosemary and leave trucks in particular were massive, and no one to simmer on a low heat for 5 was doing anything like it in the UK. Starting minutes. The butter should turn with a stall at London’s Maltby St Market in slightly green. January 2014, a truck soon followed (Alfie), then another (Audrey). Fast-forward a few years 2. Lay out the bread and brush and The Cheese Truck is catering for the likes the butter on the outside of of Tom Cruise’s Mission Impossible wrap party, each slice. and Mathew has become a cheese expert, judging for numerous awards. His dedication to sourcing 3. Flip the bread over and spread quality British cheeses sets the toasted sandwich the goat’s cheese in a nice thick bar high. layer before adding the walnuts and honey. Add another slice of Follow them on bread on top. Twitter: @CheeseTruckLDN

9 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

10 SALADS & HEALTHY BOWLS SALADS & HEALTHY BOWLS

SERVES 2 SERVES 2 JAPAN JAPAN Sesame tofu Sesame tofu

You’ll need You’llBuddha need bowl Buddha bowl 3 tbs sesame seeds With this3 simple tbs sesame and seedsnourishing yet tasty dish, Buddhist vegetarianWith this simple and nourishing yet tasty dish, Buddhist vegetarian 1 tbs sugar cuisine1 tbs leaves sugar your belly, mind and conscience feeling good. cuisine leaves your belly, mind and conscience feeling good. 1 tbs soy sauce 1 tbs soy sauce 2 cups mixed leafy greens Method 2 cups mixed leafy greens Method such as kale, spinach or 1 In a small frying pan,such toast as the kale, sesame spinach seeds or 1 In a small frying pan, toast the sesame seeds Swiss chard gently, being careful notSwiss to chardburn them. gently, being careful not to burn them. handful of green beans, handful of green beans, trimmed 2 Transfer the sesametrimmed seeds into a mortar 2 Transfer the sesame seeds into a mortar salt and coarse pepper and pestle, add the saltsugar and and coarse grind pepperinto a and pestle, add the sugar and grind into a 1 cup short grain rice, cooked paste. 1 cup short grain rice, cooked paste. 300g (10½oz) firm tofu, diced 300g (10½oz) firm tofu, diced 1 spring onion (scallion), 3 Combine the sesame1 spring seed onion paste (scallion), with the 3 Combine the sesame seed paste with the green part chopped finely, soy sauce in a small bowlgreen and part set chopped aside. finely, soy sauce in a small bowl and set aside. to garnish to garnish 4 Simmer the vegetables in a shallow pan 4 Simmer the vegetables in a shallow pan with just enough water to cook them without with just enough water to cook them without Origins Origins burning. Season to taste. burning. Season to taste. Shojin ryori is vegetarian cuisine Shojin ryori is vegetarian cuisine at its purest, practised by the at its purest, practised by the 5 To serve, put some rice in a bowl and top 5 To serve, put some rice in a bowl and top Buddhist monks of Japan from Buddhist monks of Japan from with the vegetables, tofu and sesame sauce. with the vegetables, tofu and sesame sauce. as early as the 6th century. as early as the 6th century. Garnish with spring onion. Garnish with spring onion. Similar food philosophies are Similar food philosophies are found in the Chinese and the found in the Chinese and the Koreans traditions – they likely Koreans traditions – they likely introduced the religion to introduced the religion to Japan. The traditions of shojin Japan. The traditions of shojin Tasting notes Tasting notes ryori echo Zen principles, such ryori echo Zen principles, such The principles of shojin ryori are rooted in simple cooking, minimal seasoningThe principles and avoiding of shojin ryori are rooted in simple cooking, minimal seasoning and avoiding as eating in silence or using as eating in silence or using waste. The result is vegetables that taste of their quintessence withoutwaste. the distraction The result is vegetables that taste of their quintessence without the distraction only what is available. Over only what is available. Over of sauces or seasonings. A special occasion experience is to try shojin ryoriof sauces cuisine or inseasonings. the A special occasion experience is to try shojin ryori cuisine in the time, some of the techniques time, some of the techniques and skills have evolved to give and skills have evolved to give omakase, or ‘chef’s choice’, style in one of the few remaining specialistomakase restaurants, or ‘chef’sin Kyoto choice’, style in one of the few remaining specialist restaurants in Kyoto rise to other forms of cuisine, rise to other forms of cuisine, or Tokyo. You can expect the freshest seasonal produce cooked to sublimeor Tokyo. perfection You can and expect the freshest seasonal produce cooked to sublime perfection and including the most sophisticated including the most sophisticated served in beautifully adorned, often handmade tableware over multipleserved courses. in beautifully These days, adorned, often handmade tableware over multiple courses. These days, Japanese form of fine dining Japanese form of fine dining known as kaiseki. known as kaiseki. a Buddha bowl is also used to describe a vegetarian grain bowl filled witha Buddha a hearty bowl mound is also of used to describe a vegetarian grain bowl filled with a hearty mound of © WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES © WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ● ● © JONATHON GREGSON; JUNICHI MIYAZAKI / LONELY PLANET wholesome, nourishing food, said to resemble the belly© JONATHON GREGSON; JUNICHI MIYAZAKI / LONELY PLANET of Buddha. bywholesome, Johanna Ashby nourishing food, said to resemble the belly of Buddha. by Johanna Ashby

11 94 94 95 95 SALADS & HEALTHY BOWLS SALADS & HEALTHY BOWLS

SERVES 2 SERVES 2 JAPAN JAPAN Sesame tofuSesame tofu

You’ll need You’ll need Buddha bowlBuddha bowl 3 tbs sesame seeds 3 tbs sesame seedsWith this simple and nourishing yet tastyWith dish, this Buddhist simple and vegetarian nourishing yet tasty dish, Buddhist vegetarian 1 tbs sugar 1 tbs sugar cuisine leaves your belly, mind and consciencecuisine leaves feeling your good. belly, mind and conscience feeling good. 1 tbs soy sauce 1 tbs soy sauce 2 cups mixed leafy greens 2 cups mixedMethod leafy greens Method such as kale, spinach or such as1 kale, In a smallspinach frying or pan, toast the sesame seeds1 In a small frying pan, toast the sesame seeds Swiss chard Swiss chardgently, being careful not to burn them. gently, being careful not to burn them. handful of green beans, handful of green beans, trimmed trimmed2 Transfer the sesame seeds into a mortar 2 Transfer the sesame seeds into a mortar salt and coarse pepper salt and coarseand pestle, pepper add the sugar and grind into a and pestle, add the sugar and grind into a 1 cup short grain rice, cooked 1 cup shortpaste. grain rice, cooked paste. 300g (10½oz) firm tofu, diced 300g (10½oz) firm tofu, diced 1 spring onion (scallion), 1 spring onion3 Combine (scallion), the sesame seed paste with the 3 Combine the sesame seed paste with the green part chopped finely, green partsoy saucechopped in a finely, small bowl and set aside. soy sauce in a small bowl and set aside. to garnish to garnish 4 Simmer the vegetables in a shallow pan 4 Simmer the vegetables in a shallow pan with just enough water to cook them withoutwith just enough water to cook them without Origins Origins burning. Season to taste. burning. Season to taste. Shojin ryori is vegetarian cuisine Shojin ryori is vegetarian cuisine at its purest, practised by the at its purest, practised by the 5 To serve, put some rice in a bowl and top 5 To serve, put some rice in a bowl and top Buddhist monks of Japan from Buddhist monks of Japan from with the vegetables, tofu and sesame sauce. with the vegetables, tofu and sesame sauce. as early as the 6th century. as early as the 6th century. Garnish with spring onion. Garnish with spring onion. Similar food philosophies are Similar food philosophies are found in the Chinese and the found in the Chinese and the Koreans traditions – they likely Koreans traditions – they likely introduced the religion to introduced the religion to Japan. The traditions of shojin Japan. The traditions of shojin Tasting notes Tasting notes ryori echo Zen principles, such ryori echo Zen principles, such The principles of shojin ryori are rooted in simpleThe principles cooking, of minimal shojin ryoriseasoning are rooted and avoiding in simple cooking, minimal seasoning and avoiding as eating in silence or using as eating in silence or using waste. The result is vegetables that taste ofwaste. their quintessence The result is vegetableswithout the that distraction taste of their quintessence without the distraction only what is available. Over only what is available. Over of sauces or seasonings. A special occasionof experience sauces or isseasonings. to try shojin A specialryori cuisine occasion in the experience is to try shojin ryori cuisine in the time, some of the techniques time, some of the techniques and skills have evolved to give and skills have evolved to give omakase, or ‘chef’s choice’, style in one ofomakase the few remaining, or ‘chef’s specialist choice’, stylerestaurants in one ofin Kyotothe few remaining specialist restaurants in Kyoto rise to other forms of cuisine, rise to other forms of cuisine, or Tokyo. You can expect the freshest seasonalor Tokyo. produce You cookedcan expect to sublime the freshest perfection seasonal and produce cooked to sublime perfection and including the most sophisticated including the most sophisticated served in beautifully adorned, often handmadeserved tableware in beautifully over multiple adorned, courses. often handmade These days, tableware over multiple courses. These days, Japanese form of fine dining Japanese form of fine dining known as kaiseki. known as kaiseki. a Buddha bowl is also used to describe a vegetariana Buddha grain bowl bowlis also filled used withto describe a hearty a vegetarianmound of grain bowl filled with a hearty mound of © WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES © WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ● ● © JONATHON GREGSON; JUNICHI MIYAZAKI / LONELY PLANET wholesome, nourishing food,© JONATHON GREGSON; JUNICHI MIYAZAKI / LONELY PLANET said to resemblewholesome, the belly nourishingof Buddha. food, by saidJohanna to resemble Ashby the belly of Buddha. by Johanna Ashby

12 94 94 95 95 RICE, PASTA & NOODLES RICE, PASTA & NOODLES

INDONESIA INDONESIASERVES 2 SERVES 2 Nasi gorengNasi goreng Born from the need to use up yesterday’sBorn fromleftover the rice, need this to use up yesterday’s leftover rice, this traditional Indonesian breakfast, poweredtraditional by shrimp Indonesian paste breakfast, powered by shrimp paste and sweet soy sauce, is a crowd-pleaserand sweetfor any soy meal. sauce, is a crowd-pleaser for any meal.

You’ll need MethodYou’ll need Method 2 tbs peanut or vegetable oil 1 Heat 1 tbs2 tbs oil peanutin a wok or on vegetable a low heat. oil Add1 theHeat shrimp 1 tbs oilpaste in a wok on a low heat. Add the shrimp paste 1 tsp dried shrimp paste and cook1 until tsp driedbrown shrimp and aromatic. paste and cook until brown and aromatic. 2 medium shallots, peeled 2 medium shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 2 Add the shallotsand thinly and sliced garlic and stir-fry until2 Add fragrant the shallots and and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant and 2 garlic cloves, peeled and golden brown.2 garlic cloves, peeled and golden brown. thinly sliced thinly sliced 1 tsp finely sliced red chilli or 3 Add the1 tspchilli finely followed sliced by thered rice.chilli Turnor up3 Addheat the to moderatechilli followed by the rice. Turn up heat to moderate sambal oelek and stir-frysambal until all oelek the rice is warm and theand ingredients stir-fry until are allwell the rice is warm and the ingredients are well 4 cups cold cooked long grain mixed. Sprinkle4 cups the cold rice cooked with water long grainif necessary mixed. to Sprinklekeep it moist.the rice with water if necessary to keep it moist. rice rice 1 tbs kecap manis (sweet soy 4 Add the1 tbskecap kecap manis manis and (sweet stir until soy evenly 4 distributed. Add the kecap Season manis and stir until evenly distributed. Season sauce) with salt tosauce) taste. with salt to taste. salt, to taste salt, to taste 2 eggs 5 Heat the2 eggs remaining oil in another pan and5 Heatfry the the eggs remaining sunny oil in another pan and fry the eggs sunny 2 spring onions (scallions), side up. 2 spring onions (scallions), side up. thinly sliced thinly sliced Origins Origins ½ cucumber, sliced, to serve 6 Sprinkle½ the cucumber, rice with sliced, sliced tospring serve onions6 Sprinkleand serve the in ricebowls, with sliced spring onions and serve in bowls,

Also known as Indonesia’s Also known as Indonesia’s prawn crackers, to serve topped withprawn a fried crackers, egg, with to serve a few slices oftopped cucumber with aand fried egg, with a few slices of cucumber and national dish, nasi goreng national dish, nasi goreng (optional) prawn crackers(optional) on the side. prawn crackers on the side. sprang from humble beginnings. sprang from humble beginnings. Originally a trick to avoid wasting Originally a trick to avoid wasting rice, it was served as breakfast rice, it was served as breakfast Tasting notes Tasting notes the next day, mixed with leftover the next day, mixed with leftover Across Indonesia, you’ll find nasi goreng beingAcross touted Indonesia, by cart-pushing you’ll find nasi hawkers, goreng sizzling being toutedin by cart-pushing hawkers, sizzling in scraps of chicken or beef and scraps of chicken or beef and warung (street food stall) woks and on thewarung menu (streetat the finestfood stall) restaurants, woks and as on well the as menu on every at the finest restaurants, as well as on every fortified with shrimp paste and fortified with shrimp paste and family table. Ask for ‘special’ to get a friedfamily egg table.on top; Ask ask for for ‘special it ‘pedas’ to’ andget ayou’re fried eggplaying on top; ask for it ‘pedas’ and you’re playing kecap manis (Indonesia’s answer kecap manis (Indonesia’s answer to soy sauce). It’s most likely that to soy sauce). It’s most likely that with fire – diced fresh chilli will be thrownwith into fire the – dicedwok while fresh it’s chilli cooking. will be The thrown variations into theare wok while it’s cooking. The variations are the dish originated with Chinese the dish originated with Chinese endless. Nasi goreng ayam comes with spicyendless. fried Nasi chicken; goreng nasi ayam goreng comes ikan with bilis spicy, popular fried in chicken; nasi goreng ikan bilis, popular in fried rice – trade between the fried rice – trade between the Flores, Komodo-dragon territory, containsFlores, small Komodo-dragon dried anchovies. territory, Nasi goreng contains gila, or small ‘crazy dried anchovies. Nasi goreng gila, or ‘crazy two countries began around two countries began around the 10th century – although a the 10th century – although a fried rice’, rarely found outside Jakarta, friedmight rice’, contain rarely sausage, found scrambledoutside Jakarta, egg, meatballs, might contain sausage, scrambled egg, meatballs, competing theory goes that it competing theory goes that it chicken gizzards and whatever else the chefchicken feels gizzards like throwing and whatever in – even else corned the chefbeef. feels That’s like throwing in – even corned beef. That’s was inspired by Middle Eastern was inspired by Middle Eastern © GRÄFE & UNZER VERLAG / BONISOLLI, BARBARA / STOCKFOOD the beauty of nasi goreng – anything© GRÄFE & UNZER VERLAG / BONISOLLI, BARBARA / STOCKFOOD goes.the ● beautyby Janine of Eberle nasi goreng – anything goes. ● by Janine Eberle pilaf, brought by Arabic traders. pilaf, brought by Arabic traders.

13 139 139 RICE, PASTA & NOODLES

INDONESIA SERVES 2 Nasi goreng Born from the need to use up yesterday’s leftover rice, this traditional Indonesian breakfast, powered by shrimp paste and sweet soy sauce, is a crowd-pleaser for any meal.

You’ll need Method 2 tbs peanut or vegetable oil 1 Heat 1 tbs oil in a wok on a low heat. Add the shrimp paste 1 tsp dried shrimp paste and cook until brown and aromatic. 2 medium shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 2 Add the shallots and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant and 2 garlic cloves, peeled and golden brown. thinly sliced 1 tsp finely sliced red chilli or 3 Add the chilli followed by the rice. Turn up heat to moderate sambal oelek and stir-fry until all the rice is warm and the ingredients are well 4 cups cold cooked long grain mixed. Sprinkle the rice with water if necessary to keep it moist. rice 1 tbs kecap manis (sweet soy 4 Add the kecap manis and stir until evenly distributed. Season sauce) with salt to taste. salt, to taste 2 eggs 5 Heat the remaining oil in another pan and fry the eggs sunny 2 spring onions (scallions), side up. thinly sliced Origins ½ cucumber, sliced, to serve 6 Sprinkle the rice with sliced spring onions and serve in bowls,

Also known as Indonesia’s prawn crackers, to serve topped with a fried egg, with a few slices of cucumber and national dish, nasi goreng (optional) prawn crackers on the side. sprang from humble beginnings. Originally a trick to avoid wasting rice, it was served as breakfast Tasting notes the next day, mixed with leftover Across Indonesia, you’ll find nasi goreng being touted by cart-pushing hawkers, sizzling in scraps of chicken or beef and warung (street food stall) woks and on the menu at the finest restaurants, as well as on every fortified with shrimp paste and family table. Ask for ‘special’ to get a fried egg on top; ask for it ‘pedas’ and you’re playing kecap manis (Indonesia’s answer to soy sauce). It’s most likely that with fire – diced fresh chilli will be thrown into the wok while it’s cooking. The variations are the dish originated with Chinese endless. Nasi goreng ayam comes with spicy fried chicken; nasi goreng ikan bilis, popular in fried rice – trade between the Flores, Komodo-dragon territory, contains small dried anchovies. Nasi goreng gila, or ‘crazy two countries began around the 10th century – although a fried rice’, rarely found outside Jakarta, might contain sausage, scrambled egg, meatballs, competing theory goes that it chicken gizzards and whatever else the chef feels like throwing in – even corned beef. That’s was inspired by Middle Eastern © GRÄFE & UNZER VERLAG / BONISOLLI, BARBARA / STOCKFOOD the beauty of nasi goreng – anything goes. ● by Janine Eberle pilaf, brought by Arabic traders.

14 139 RICE, PASTA & NOODLES RICE, PASTA & NOODLES

Baked dishes of pasta and thinly sliced the nutmeg and mustard powder. Stir in the Origins cheese have been recorded ½ cucumber, sliced, to serve 6 SprinkleCheddar the rice until with smooth sliced spring and season onions to and taste. serve in bowls, as far back as the 14th Also known as Indonesia’s prawn crackers, to serve topped with a fried egg, with a few slices of cucumber and century, including a recipe for (optional) prawn crackers on the side. national dish, nasi goreng ‘makerouns’ in the medieval sprang from humble beginnings. English cookbook Forme of Tasting notes Originally a trick to avoid wasting Cury – a simple lasagne-style rice, it was served as breakfast Tasting notes From its humble beginnings, mac ‘n’ cheese has attained a level of stardom rare for bowls of concoction of fresh pasta, Across Indonesia, you’ll find nasi goreng beingpasta, touted with online by cart-pushing forums, festivals hawkers, and sizzling whole restaurantsin devoted to it. The big question – the next day, mixed with leftover grated cheese and butter. It scraps of chicken or beef and hasn’t changed much since. warung (street food stall) woks and on thestovetop menu at versus the finest baked restaurants, – stirs passions; as well in heras on standard-setting every Victorian Book of Household fortified with shrimp paste and The story goes that Thomas family table. Ask for ‘special’ to get a friedManagement egg on top;, theask famousfor it ‘pedas Mrs Beeton’ and you’re plumps playing for stovetop with a final baking stage (as we kecap manis (Indonesia’s answer Jefferson established its with fire – diced fresh chilli will be thrownhave into done the here).wok while Debate it’s alsocooking. rages The over variations acceptable are additions: nutmeg? (we think so), eggs? to soy sauce). It’s most likely that popularity in the USA after the dish originated with Chinese sampling it in Europe, but it was endless. Nasi goreng ayam comes with spicy(probably fried chicken;unnecessary), nasi goreng garlic? ikan(definitely bilis, popular not). If inyou were to visit one of many mac ‘n’ cheese fried rice – trade between the Kraft’s boxed mac ‘n’ cheese, Flores, Komodo-dragon territory, containsrestaurants small dried found anchovies. stateside, Nasi you’d goreng have gila more, or ‘crazyoptions – lobster, truffle and jalapeños (not in two countries began around introduced in 1937, that secured fried rice’, rarely found outside Jakarta, themight same contain bowl) sausage, are popular scrambled additions. egg, But meatballs, we say keep it simple – a sharp cheese, plenty of the 10th century – although a its place as a fast-food icon. competing theory goes that it chicken gizzards and whatever else the chefbutter, feels and like crunchy throwing breadcrumbs in – even corned grilled beef. on top That’s to offset the uncomplicated gooey richness. was inspired by Middle Eastern © GRÄFE & UNZER VERLAG / BONISOLLI, BARBARA / STOCKFOOD the beauty of nasi goreng© VM2002; ANNA KURZAEVA / SHUTTERSTOCK – anything goes.● by● Janineby Janine Eberle Eberle pilaf, brought by Arabic traders.

15 132 139 133 RICE, PASTA & NOODLES RICE, PASTA & NOODLES

INDONESIA SERVES 2 SERVES 2 Nasi goreng Born from the need to use up yesterday’s leftover rice, this traditional Indonesian breakfast, powered by shrimp paste USA and sweet soy sauce, is a crowd-pleaser for any meal. You’ll need You’ll need Method 200g (7oz) macaroni Macaroni and cheese 2 tbs peanut or vegetable oil 1 Heat 1 tbs oil in a wok on a low heat. Add the shrimp paste 2 tbs butter, plus extra Is there a more perfect comfort food than mac ‘n’ cheese? Its appeal 1 tsp dried shrimp paste and cook until brown and aromatic. for greasing lies in its simplicity – it’s a bland beige hug of a bowl recommended for 2 medium shallots, peeled 1½ tbs plain (all-purpose) hangovers, rainy days and bed-bound binge-watching. and thinly sliced 2 Add the shallots and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant and flour 2 garlic cloves, peeled and golden brown. 1½ cups milk Method thinly sliced grating of nutmeg 1 Cook the macaroni in plenty of salted boiling 3 Pre-heat the grill. Grease a baking dish with 1 tsp finely sliced red chilli or 3 Add the chilli followed by the rice. Turn up heat to moderate ½ tsp mustard powder water until tender. Drain and rinse under cold butter, then combine the pasta and cheese sambal oelek and stir-fry until all the rice is warm and the ingredients are well 50g (2oz) mature (sharp) running water. sauce and tip it into the dish. 4 cups cold cooked long grain mixed. Sprinkle the rice with water if necessary to keep it moist. Cheddar rice salt and pepper 2 Meanwhile, melt two-thirds of the butter in 4 Melt the remaining butter and toss it with 1 tbs kecap manis (sweet soy 4 Add the kecap manis and stir until evenly distributed. Season ⅓ cup coarse breadcrumbs a pan and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring, for the breadcrumbs and parmesan. Spread over sauce) with salt to taste. 1 tbs grated parmesan a couple of minutes, then take off the heat the top of the dish, then grill for about 10 salt, to taste and gradually whisk in the milk (using a whisk) minutes until golden and bubbling. 2 eggs 5 Heat the remaining oil in another pan and fry the eggs sunny until you have a smooth sauce. Cook, stirring, 2 spring onions (scallions), side up. Origins for a few minutes until it thickens, then add thinly sliced Baked dishes of pasta and the nutmeg and mustard powder. Stir in the Origins ½ cucumber, sliced, to serve 6 Sprinkle thecheese rice have with been sliced recorded spring onions and serve in bowls, Cheddar until smooth and season to taste. as far back as the 14th Also known as Indonesia’s prawn crackers, to serve topped with a fried egg, with a few slices of cucumber and (optional) prawn crackerscentury, on including the side. a recipe for national dish, nasi goreng ‘makerouns’ in the medieval sprang from humble beginnings. English cookbook Forme of Tasting notes Originally a trick to avoid wasting Cury – a simple lasagne-style rice, it was served as breakfast Tasting notes From its humble beginnings, mac ‘n’ cheese has attained a level of stardom rare for bowls of Across Indonesia, you’ll find nasi goreng beingconcoction touted of by fresh cart-pushing pasta, hawkers, sizzling in pasta, with online forums, festivals and whole restaurants devoted to it. The big question – the next day, mixed with leftover grated cheese and butter. It scraps of chicken or beef and warung (street food stall) woks and on the menuhasn’t changedat the muchfinest since. restaurants, as well as on every stovetop versus baked – stirs passions; in her standard-setting Victorian Book of Household fortified with shrimp paste and family table. Ask for ‘special’ to get a fried eggThe storyon top; goes thatask Thomasfor it ‘pedas’ and you’re playing Management, the famous Mrs Beeton plumps for stovetop with a final baking stage (as we kecap manis (Indonesia’s answer with fire – diced fresh chilli will be thrown intoJefferson the establishedwok while its it’s cooking. The variations are have done here). Debate also rages over acceptable additions: nutmeg? (we think so), eggs? to soy sauce). It’s most likely that popularity in the USA after the dish originated with Chinese endless. Nasi goreng ayam comes with spicysampling fried it chicken;in Europe, but nasi it was goreng ikan bilis, popular in (probably unnecessary), garlic? (definitely not). If you were to visit one of many mac ‘n’ cheese fried rice – trade between the Flores, Komodo-dragon territory, contains Kraft’ssmall boxed dried mac anchovies. ‘n’ cheese, Nasi goreng gila, or ‘crazy restaurants found stateside, you’d have more options – lobster, truffle and jalapeños (not in two countries began around fried rice’, rarely found outside Jakarta, mightintroduced contain in 1937, sausage, that secured scrambled egg, meatballs, the same bowl) are popular additions. But we say keep it simple – a sharp cheese, plenty of the 10th century – although a its place as a fast-food icon. competing theory goes that it chicken gizzards and whatever else the chef feels like throwing in – even corned beef. That’s butter, and crunchy breadcrumbs grilled on top to offset the uncomplicated gooey richness. was inspired by Middle Eastern © GRÄFE & UNZER VERLAG / BONISOLLI, BARBARA / STOCKFOOD the beauty of nasi goreng – anything goes. ● by Janine Eberle © VM2002; ANNA KURZAEVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ● by Janine Eberle pilaf, brought by Arabic traders.

16 139 132 133 DISHES DISHES

SERVES 4 SERVES 4

ITALY ITALY Pasta all’ArrabbiataPasta all’Arrabbiata Literally translating as ‘angry pasta’, pasta all’arrabbiata Literally translating as ‘angry pasta’, pasta all’arrabbiata is all hot and bothered because of its bright-red sauce, is all hot and bothered because of its bright-red sauce, a spicy mix of tomatoes, garlic and hot chilli flakes. a spicy mix of tomatoes, garlic and hot chilli flakes.

You’ll need Method You’ll need Method 1 medium onion, peeled and 1 Over medium heat, saute the onion and1 medium garlic in onion,half of peeled and 1 Over medium heat, saute the onion and garlic in half of chopped the oil until golden. chopped the oil until golden. 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced 2 Add the tomatoes and chilli and bring tominced a simmer. 2 Add the tomatoes and chilli and bring to a simmer. ¼ cup (60mL) olive oil ¼ cup (60mL) olive oil 400g (14oz) tinned tomatoes, 3 Meanwhile, cook the pasta until it is al 400gdente, (14oz) then tinneddrain. tomatoes, 3 Meanwhile, cook the pasta until it is al dente, then drain. drained drained ½ tsp red chilli flakes 4 Stir the remaining oil into the tomato mixture,½ tsp red season chilli flakeswith 4 Stir the remaining oil into the tomato mixture, season with 500g (1lb) dry pasta (penne or salt to taste and pour over the pasta. 500g (1lb) dry pasta (penne or salt to taste and pour over the pasta. spaghetti) spaghetti) Origins Origins Salt to taste 5 Serve with freshly grated cheese. Salt to taste 5 Serve with freshly grated cheese.

Italians have been cooking Italians have been cooking 100g (3½oz) pecorino cheese, 100g (3½oz) pecorino cheese, pasta for nearly a millennium. pasta for nearly a millennium. grated grated It is likely that it was brought to It is likely that it was brought to Sicily by Arab traders (not, as Sicily by Arab traders (not, as popular legend has it, imported popular legend has it, imported by Marco Polo from China!), and by Marco Polo from China!), and Tasting notes Tasting notes since then an unknown number since then an unknown number Look for pasta all’arrabbiata in Rome’s neighbourhood trattoria, whereLook rustic for dishes pasta areall’arrabbiata in Rome’s neighbourhood trattoria, where rustic dishes are of pasta recipes have been of pasta recipes have been accompanied by a carafe or two of house Chianti. The beauty of the dishaccompanied is in its simplicity: by a carafe or two of house Chianti. The beauty of the dish is in its simplicity: developed. Pasta all’arrabbiata developed. Pasta all’arrabbiata is one that is especially is one that is especially al-dente pasta in a light, bright sauce of garlicky tomatoes, studded withal-dente tongue-numbing pasta in a light, bright sauce of garlicky tomatoes, studded with tongue-numbing associated with the lusty, earthy associated with the lusty, earthy dried red chilli flakes. A hearty plateful will keep you full for hours. Pastadried all’arrabbiata red chilli flakes. A hearty plateful will keep you full for hours. Pasta all’arrabbiata cuisine of Rome, though you can cuisine of Rome, though you can is also a popular home-cooked meal, the kind of thing your nonna throwsis also together a popular in 20 home-cooked meal, the kind of thing your nonna throws together in 20 find it on menus and in domestic find it on menus and in domestic cucinas nationwide. cucinas nationwide. minutes on a Monday evening. If you’re lucky enough to befriend a few minuteslocals, perhaps on a Monday evening. If you’re lucky enough to befriend a few locals, perhaps you’ll also be lucky enough to be invited to supper – they’ll supply the pasta,you’ll alsoyou bebring lucky enough to be invited to supper – they’ll supply the pasta, you bring

BORIS-B © SHUTTERSTOCK, SVARIOPHOTO © GETTY IMAGES the vino. ● by Emily Matchar BORIS-B © SHUTTERSTOCK, SVARIOPHOTO © GETTY IMAGES the vino. ● by Emily Matchar

17 124 124 125 125 DISHES DISHES

SERVES 4 SERVES 4

ITALY ITALY Pasta all’ArrabbiataPasta all’Arrabbiata Literally translating as ‘angry pasta’, pastaLiterally all’arrabbiata translating as ‘angry pasta’, pasta all’arrabbiata is all hot and bothered because of its bright-redis all hot and sauce, bothered because of its bright-red sauce, a spicy mix of tomatoes, garlic and hot achilli spicy flakes. mix of tomatoes, garlic and hot chilli flakes.

You’ll need MethodYou’ll need Method 1 medium onion, peeled and 1 Over medium1 medium heat, sauteonion, the peeled onion and and garlic1 Over in half medium of heat, saute the onion and garlic in half of chopped the oil until golden.chopped the oil until golden. 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced 2 Add the tomatoesminced and chilli and bring to a simmer.2 Add the tomatoes and chilli and bring to a simmer. ¼ cup (60mL) olive oil ¼ cup (60mL) olive oil 400g (14oz) tinned tomatoes, 3 Meanwhile,400g cook (14oz) the pasta tinned until tomatoes, it is al dente, 3 Meanwhile,then drain. cook the pasta until it is al dente, then drain. drained drained ½ tsp red chilli flakes 4 Stir the remaining½ tsp red oil chilli into flakesthe tomato mixture,4 Stir season the remaining with oil into the tomato mixture, season with 500g (1lb) dry pasta (penne or salt to taste 500gand pour (1lb) overdry pasta the pasta. (penne or salt to taste and pour over the pasta. spaghetti) spaghetti) Origins Origins Salt to taste 5 Serve withSalt freshly to taste grated cheese. 5 Serve with freshly grated cheese.

Italians have been cooking Italians have been cooking 100g (3½oz) pecorino cheese, 100g (3½oz) pecorino cheese, pasta for nearly a millennium. pasta for nearly a millennium. grated grated It is likely that it was brought to It is likely that it was brought to Sicily by Arab traders (not, as Sicily by Arab traders (not, as popular legend has it, imported popular legend has it, imported by Marco Polo from China!), and by Marco Polo from China!), and Tasting notes Tasting notes since then an unknown number since then an unknown number Look for pasta all’arrabbiata in Rome’s neighbourhoodLook for pasta trattoria all’arrabbiata, where rusticin Rome’s dishes neighbourhood are trattoria, where rustic dishes are of pasta recipes have been of pasta recipes have been accompanied by a carafe or two of house Chianti.accompanied The beauty by a carafeof the dishor two is inof its house simplicity: Chianti. The beauty of the dish is in its simplicity: developed. Pasta all’arrabbiata developed. Pasta all’arrabbiata is one that is especially is one that is especially al-dente pasta in a light, bright sauce of garlickyal-dente tomatoes, pasta in studded a light, brightwith tongue-numbing sauce of garlicky tomatoes, studded with tongue-numbing associated with the lusty, earthy associated with the lusty, earthy dried red chilli flakes. A hearty plateful will driedkeep redyou chillifull for flakes. hours. A Pasta hearty all’arrabbiata plateful will keep you full for hours. Pasta all’arrabbiata cuisine of Rome, though you can cuisine of Rome, though you can is also a popular home-cooked meal, the kindis also of thing a popular your nonnahome-cooked throws together meal, the in kind 20 of thing your nonna throws together in 20 find it on menus and in domestic find it on menus and in domestic cucinas nationwide. cucinas nationwide. minutes on a Monday evening. If you’re luckyminutes enough on to a befriend Monday aevening. few locals, If you’re perhaps lucky enough to befriend a few locals, perhaps you’ll also be lucky enough to be invited to supperyou’ll also – they’ll be lucky supply enough the pasta,to be invitedyou bring to supper – they’ll supply the pasta, you bring

BORIS-B © SHUTTERSTOCK, SVARIOPHOTO © GETTY IMAGES the vino. ● by Emily Matchar BORIS-B © SHUTTERSTOCK, SVARIOPHOTO © GETTY IMAGES the vino. ● by Emily Matchar

18 124 124 125 125 RICE, PASTARICE, & NOODLES PASTA & NOODLES

SERVES 4 SERVES 4

You’ll needYou’ll need VENICE, ITALYVENICE, ITALY 4½ cups chicken4½ cups stock chicken stock 900g (2lb) green900g (2lb)peas greenin the peas in the pod, podded,pod, pods podded, reserved pods reserved RisiRisi e bisi e bisi 40g (1½oz) 40gbutter (1½oz) butter This celebratedThis celebrated Venetian dishVenetian traditionally dish traditionally uses locally uses grown locally rice grown and fresh rice and fresh 1 onion, peeled1 onion, and peeled finely and finely peas – andpeas not –much and notelse. much It’s a else.soothing, It’s a soothing,salty-sweet salty-sweet bowl perfect bowl for perfect for chopped chopped midweek mealsmidweek – just meals don’t – justask whetherdon’t ask it’s whether soup or it’s risotto. soup or risotto. 200g (7oz) pancetta,200g (7oz) cut pancetta, into cut into batons batons MethodMethod ½ cup chopped½ cup flat chopped leaf flat leaf 1 Warm the1 chicken Warm the stock chicken in a stockpot stock in anda stockpot 4 andAdd the rest4 Add of the brothrest of and the cook broth over and cook over parsley parsley add the rinsedadd peathe pods.rinsed Simmer pea pods. for Simmer10–15 for 10–15medium-low medium-low heat, stirring heat, gently stirring from gently time to from time to 1½ cups risotto1½ cups rice, risotto rice, minutes to allowminutes pea to flavour allow pea to infuse.flavour to infuse.time to stoptime it sticking. to stop it sticking. preferably Vialonepreferably Nano Vialone Nano ½ cup grated½ cupparmesan, grated plusparmesan, plus 2 Heat half2 the Heat butter half inthe a largebutter saucepan. in a large saucepan.5 When the5 rice When is al the dente, rice isstir al in dente, the stir in the extra, to serveextra, to serve Add the onionAdd and the pancetta onion and and pancetta cook until and the cook parmesanuntil the andparmesan remaining and butter remaining and parsley,butter and parsley, salt and pepper,salt and to tastepepper, to taste onion startsonion to colour, starts about to colour, 10 minutes. about 10 minutes.then seasonthen to taste season with to sea taste salt with and sea freshly salt and freshly ground blackground pepper. black Divide pepper. among Divide four among bowls four bowls 3 Add the peas,3 Add half the the peas, parsley half theand parsley a ladle ofand a andladle serve of immediately,and serve immediately, with extra parmesan with extra parmesan OriginsOrigins hot stock. Bringhot stock. to the Bring boil thento the add boil the then rice. add theon rice.the side. on the side. Stir well. Stir well. This dish’s impressiveThis dish’s pedigree impressive pedigree dates to the Venetiandates to Republic, the Venetian Republic, when it was preparedwhen it onwas 25 prepared on 25 April to celebrateApril the to feast celebrate day the feast day Tasting Tastingnotes notes of the city’s patronof the saint, city’s Mark, patron saint, Mark, and served withand much served ceremony with much ceremony It can be a Itchallenge can be a to challenge eat well toin Venice.eat well Our in Venice. tip: avoid Our the tip: tourist avoid therestaurants tourist restaurants filling the filling the to the Doge. Thisto thetradition Doge. This tradition piazzi and seekpiazzi out and backstreet seek out backstreetbacari (wine bacari bars). (wine Often bars). small Often and unassuming, small and unassuming, these casual, these casual, marked the appearancemarked the of appearancethe of the usually cheapusually spots cheap are where spots you’llare where find localyou’ll finddishes local done dishes well, eatendone well,alongside eaten real-life alongside real-life first peas to thefirst Rialto peas market,to the Rialto market, and thus the arrivaland thus of spring. the arrival of spring. Venetians. JustVenetians. don’t getJust into don’t an getargument into an over argument the perfect over the consistency perfect consistency of risi e bisi of – risiit's e bisi – it's Purists insist onPurists using peasinsist on using peas a question aon question which even on which the experts even the are experts divided. are Is itdivided. a soup, Is requiring it a soup, a requiringspoon to aeat, spoon or to eat, or from Chioggia,from at the Chioggia, southern at the southern a fork-necessitatinga fork-necessitating risotto? Let risotto? the last Let word the be last all’onda word be, ‘like all’onda a wave’,, ‘like the a consistencywave’, the consistency entrance to theentrance lagoon of to the lagoon of Venice, and VialoneVenice, Nano and rice Vialone Nano rice benchmarkbenchmark for northern for Italian northern rice Italiandishes. rice Either dishes. way, Eitherthe saltiness way, the of saltiness pancetta of against pancetta the against the grown on the Veronesegrown on plains. the Veronese plains. bursts of chlorophyllbursts of chlorophyll sweetness sweetnessfrom fresh frompeas, fresh held inpeas, balance held byin balancecreamy, bybuttery creamy, rice, buttery rice,

© WILLIAM SHAW / GETTY IMAGES, © JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © WILLIAM SHAW / GETTY IMAGES, © JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET is a humbleis revelation. a humble revelation.● by Janine Eberle● by Janine Eberle

19 147 147 RICE, PASTA & NOODLES

SERVES 4

You’ll need VENICE, ITALY 4½ cups chicken stock 900g (2lb) green peas in the pod, podded, pods reserved Risi e bisi 40g (1½oz) butter This celebrated Venetian dish traditionally uses locally grown rice and fresh 1 onion, peeled and finely peas – and not much else. It’s a soothing, salty-sweet bowl perfect for chopped midweek meals – just don’t ask whether it’s soup or risotto. 200g (7oz) pancetta, cut into batons Method ½ cup chopped flat leaf 1 Warm the chicken stock in a stockpot and 4 Add the rest of the broth and cook over parsley add the rinsed pea pods. Simmer for 10–15 medium-low heat, stirring gently from time to 1½ cups risotto rice, minutes to allow pea flavour to infuse. time to stop it sticking. preferably Vialone Nano ½ cup grated parmesan, plus 2 Heat half the butter in a large saucepan. 5 When the rice is al dente, stir in the extra, to serve Add the onion and pancetta and cook until the parmesan and remaining butter and parsley, salt and pepper, to taste onion starts to colour, about 10 minutes. then season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Divide among four bowls 3 Add the peas, half the parsley and a ladle of and serve immediately, with extra parmesan Origins hot stock. Bring to the boil then add the rice. on the side. Stir well. This dish’s impressive pedigree dates to the Venetian Republic, when it was prepared on 25 April to celebrate the feast day Tasting notes of the city’s patron saint, Mark, and served with much ceremony It can be a challenge to eat well in Venice. Our tip: avoid the tourist restaurants filling the to the Doge. This tradition piazzi and seek out backstreet bacari (wine bars). Often small and unassuming, these casual, marked the appearance of the usually cheap spots are where you’ll find local dishes done well, eaten alongside real-life first peas to the Rialto market, and thus the arrival of spring. Venetians. Just don’t get into an argument over the perfect consistency of risi e bisi – it's Purists insist on using peas a question on which even the experts are divided. Is it a soup, requiring a spoon to eat, or from Chioggia, at the southern a fork-necessitating risotto? Let the last word be all’onda, ‘like a wave’, the consistency entrance to the lagoon of Venice, and Vialone Nano rice benchmark for northern Italian rice dishes. Either way, the saltiness of pancetta against the grown on the Veronese plains. bursts of chlorophyll sweetness from fresh peas, held in balance by creamy, buttery rice,

20 147 DISHES DISHES

SERVES 2 SERVES 2

WEST AFRICAWEST AFRICA JollofJollof Rice Rice No socialNo function social isfunction complete is complete without jollof without rice, jollof the posterrice, the poster food for Westfood Africa,for West a one-potAfrica, a mealone-pot of chilli-spiked meal of chilli-spiked rice with rice with tomatoes,tomatoes, onion and onion a hodge-podge and a hodge-podge of meat or of vegetables. meat or vegetables.

You’ll needYou’ll need MethodMethod 1 tbs olive or1 tbs vegetable olive or oilvegetable oil 1 Heat the 1oil Heat in a thelarge oil pan in a and large cook pan the and cook the4 Dissolve 4the Dissolve stock cubethe stock in the cube water in andthe water and 1 large onion,1 large peeled onion, and peeled and onion overonion a gentle over heat a gentle until soft.heat until soft. add the stockadd tothe the stock pan. to the pan. finely dicedfinely diced 6 large tomatoes,6 large tomatoes,skinned and skinned and 2 Stir in the2 tomatoes,Stir in the tomatoes,red pepper, red Scotch pepper, Scotch5 Bring to 5the Bring boil tothen the turn boil to then a low turn heat to aand low heat and diced diced bonnet chilli,bonnet garlic, chilli, curry garlic, powder curry and powder tomato and tomatosimmer, covered,simmer, for covered, 20–30 forminutes 20–30 until minutes all until all 1 red pepper,1 red finely pepper, chopped finely chopped puree, thenpuree, season then with season salt, freshly with salt, ground freshly groundthe stock isthe absorbed stock is andabsorbed the rice and is thecooked rice is cooked 1 Scotch bonnet1 Scotch chilli, bonnet finely chilli, finely black pepperblack and pepper the cayenne and the pepper cayenne or pepperchilli alor dente. chilli al dente. chopped chopped powder. Frypowder. for 15 minutes Fry for 15 or minutes until you or have until a you have a 1 clove garlic,1 clove peeled garlic, and peeled and thick pulp.thick pulp. 6 Serve with6 Servefried plantainswith fried or plantains alongside or grilledalongside grilled OriginsOrigins finely choppedfinely chopped meat or fish.meat To orget fish. the Toright get texture, the right make texture, make

Rumour has itRumour that jollof has rice it that jollof rice 1 tsp curry 1powder tsp curry powder 3 Add the 3rice Add and the fry rice in theand tomato fry in the mixture tomato mixturesure to usesure long-grain, to use long-grain, preferably preferablybasmati rice, basmati rice, was first cookedwas firstup by cookedmembers up by members 2 tbs tomato2 tbs puree tomato puree for 1–2 minutesfor 1–2 until minutes well coated. until well coated. and don’t overdoand don’t it on overdo the liquid it on orthe you’ll liquid end or you’ll end of the Wolof tribeof the in Wolof Senegal tribe in Senegal Salt and freshlySalt and ground freshly black ground black up with a pileup withof mush. a pile of mush. (Wolof/jollof, (Wolof/jollof,get it?), whose get it?), whose pepper pepper empire coveredempire wide coveredswathes wide swathes of western Africaof western from the Africa 14th from the 14th ¼ tsp cayenne¼ tsp pepper cayenne or pepperchilli or chilli TastingTasting notes notes through to thethrough 19th centuries. to the 19th In centuries. In powder powder Good jollofGood rice isn’tjollof going rice isn’tto make going you to crymake chilli-induced you cry chilli-induced tears. It’s muchtears. moreIt’s much subtle more than subtle than some areas, includingsome areas, Gambia, including Gambia, 225g (8oz) 225glong-grain (8oz) long-grainor or that – a gentlethat –burn a gentle of tomatoes, burn of tomatoes,onions, hot onions, pepper hot and pepper al-dente and rice al-dente that builds rice that up slowlybuilds up slowly jollof rice is knownjollof riceas benachin is known, as benachin, which translateswhich as ‘onetranslates pot’. as ‘one pot’. basmati ricebasmati rice enough toenough warm the to tastewarm buds the taste without buds blowing without your blowing head youroff with head intense off with heat. intense The bestheat. The best Whether you addWhether okra, you plantain add okra, plantain 1 vegetable1 orvegetable chicken orstock chicken stock jollof is cookedjollof isoutdoors cooked inoutdoors vast iron in cauldrons vast iron cauldronsover wood over fires, wood infusing fires, the infusing rice with the arice with a or fish comesor down fish tocomes fiercely down to fiercely cube cube delicate smokinessdelicate smokiness and leaving and crunchy leaving scrapings crunchy atscrapings the bottom at the of bottomthe pan. of Eat the it pan. in a street-Eat it in a street- held regional preferences.held regional preferences. Whatever, theWhatever, colour remains the colour remains 2 cups (500mL)2 cups boiling (500mL) water boiling water side ‘chopside bar’ ‘chop (local bar’cafe, (local often cafe, in a oftenshack) in to a addshack) to theto add authenticity. to the authenticity. Come late Come morning late morning the same: a joyfulthe same: bright a umber. joyful bright umber. for lunch orfor dusk lunch before or dusk the before evening the rush, evening when rush, the foodwhen is the fresh, food the is fresh,company the warmcompany and warm and

CHRISTIAN ASLUND; ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN © GETTY IMAGES CHRISTIAN ASLUND; ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN © GETTY IMAGES the radio blaring.the radio ● byblaring. Nana Luckham● by Nana Luckham

21 79 79 DISHES

SERVES 2

WEST AFRICA Jollof Rice No social function is complete without jollof rice, the poster food for West Africa, a one-pot meal of chilli-spiked rice with tomatoes, onion and a hodge-podge of meat or vegetables.

You’ll need Method 1 tbs olive or vegetable oil 1 Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the 4 Dissolve the stock cube in the water and 1 large onion, peeled and onion over a gentle heat until soft. add the stock to the pan. finely diced 6 large tomatoes, skinned and 2 Stir in the tomatoes, red pepper, Scotch 5 Bring to the boil then turn to a low heat and diced bonnet chilli, garlic, curry powder and tomato simmer, covered, for 20–30 minutes until all 1 red pepper, finely chopped puree, then season with salt, freshly ground the stock is absorbed and the rice is cooked 1 Scotch bonnet chilli, finely black pepper and the cayenne pepper or chilli al dente. chopped powder. Fry for 15 minutes or until you have a 1 clove garlic, peeled and thick pulp. 6 Serve with fried plantains or alongside grilled Origins finely chopped meat or fish. To get the right texture, make

Rumour has it that jollof rice 1 tsp curry powder 3 Add the rice and fry in the tomato mixture sure to use long-grain, preferably basmati rice, was first cooked up by members 2 tbs tomato puree for 1–2 minutes until well coated. and don’t overdo it on the liquid or you’ll end of the Wolof tribe in Senegal Salt and freshly ground black up with a pile of mush. (Wolof/jollof, get it?), whose pepper empire covered wide swathes of western Africa from the 14th ¼ tsp cayenne pepper or chilli Tasting notes through to the 19th centuries. In powder Good jollof rice isn’t going to make you cry chilli-induced tears. It’s much more subtle than some areas, including Gambia, 225g (8oz) long-grain or that – a gentle burn of tomatoes, onions, hot pepper and al-dente rice that builds up slowly jollof rice is known as benachin, which translates as ‘one pot’. basmati rice enough to warm the taste buds without blowing your head off with intense heat. The best Whether you add okra, plantain 1 vegetable or chicken stock jollof is cooked outdoors in vast iron cauldrons over wood fires, infusing the rice with a or fish comes down to fiercely cube delicate smokiness and leaving crunchy scrapings at the bottom of the pan. Eat it in a street- held regional preferences. Whatever, the colour remains 2 cups (500mL) boiling water side ‘chop bar’ (local cafe, often in a shack) to add to the authenticity. Come late morning the same: a joyful bright umber. for lunch or dusk before the evening rush, when the food is fresh, the company warm and

CHRISTIAN ASLUND; ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN © GETTY IMAGES the radio blaring. ● by Nana Luckham

22 79 DISHES DISHES

SERVES 2 SERVES 2

MEXICO & SOUTHWESTERN USA Enchiladas To enchilarWEST means AFRICA to put chilli on something, which is precisely what you do with this dish of tortillas stuffed with Jollofchicken, beef, pork or eggsRice and slathered in chilli salsa. You’ll need MethodNo social function is complete without jollof rice, the poster 10 tomatillos, husked 1 Boilfood the for tomatillos West Africa, and chillies a one-pot in salted meal water of chilli-spiked5 Heat the remaining rice with oil in a small frying pan 3–4 serrano chillies or 2–3 for tomatoes,10 minutes. Drain.onion and a hodge-podge of meatand fry or the vegetables. tortillas quickly. You want to soften jalapeños the tortillas but don’t let them get too crispy. You’ll need2–3 sprigs of fresh coriander Method2 Puree the soaked tomatillos and chillies, Drain on paper towels. 1 tbs olive or(cilantro) vegetable oil 1 Heat the coriander,oil in a large onion pan andand garliccook theto make a salsa.4 Dissolve the stock cube in the water and 1 large onion,1 small peeled onion, and peeled and cut onion overThis a gentle should heat make until around soft. 2½ cups (625mL)add theof stock6 Pour to the a couple pan. of tablespoons of the salsa on finely dicedin chunks tomatillo sauce. to a plate. Lay a tortilla over it and put some 6 large tomatoes,1 clove ofskinned garlic, and peeled 2 Stir in the tomatoes, red pepper, Scotch 5 Bring to ofthe the boil shredded then turn chicken to a low in heat the centre.and Roll up. diced 2 tbs canola oil bonnet chilli,3 Heat garlic, 1 tbs curry oil inpowder a frying and pan tomato over a medium-simmer, covered,Repeat forwith 20–30 3 more minutes tortillas. until all 1 red pepper,2 cups finely (500mL) chopped chicken or puree, thenhigh season heat. with Pour salt, in the freshly salsa ground and stir for the5 stock is absorbed and the rice is cooked 1 Scotch bonnetvegetable chilli, stockfinely black pepperminutes; and the it willcayenne get darker pepper and or thicker. chilli al dente. 7 Cover the enchiladas with salsa. choppedSalt powder. Fry for 15 minutes or until you have a 1 clove garlic,2 tbs peeled canola and oil thick pulp.4 Add the chicken or vegetable stock and6 Serve salt with8 Sprinklefried plantains the enchiladas or alongside with grilled cheese, Origins finely chopped4 corn tortillas to taste, reduce the heat and simmer formeat 10 or fish.a dollop To get of the cream right and texture, onion andmake serve.

Rumour has it that jollofOrigins rice 1 tsp curry 1powder large chicken breast, cooked 3 Add the minutes.rice and fryKeep in thewarm. tomato mixture sure to use long-grain, preferably basmati rice, was first cookedDipping up bylightly members fried corn tortillas 2 tbs tomatoand puree shredded for 1–2 minutes until well coated. and don’t overdo it on the liquid or you’ll end of the Wolof tribein salsa, in Senegal or pouring salsa over Salt and freshly¼ cup ground (60mL) black thick cream or up with a pile of mush. (Wolof/jollof,them, get it?), may whose have been a culinary pepper sour cream empire covered wide swathes Tasting notes accident in pre-Hispanic Mexico ¼ tsp cayenne½ cup pepper (125mL) or quesochilli añejo or of western Africa(that from is, the before 14th the arrival TastingEnchiladas notes verdes (green enchiladas) are perhaps the most widely available enchiladas in through to the 19thof Spanish centuries. conquistadores), In powder mild parmesan Good jollofMexico. rice isn’t Often going eaten to make for dinner you cry at chilli-induced unpretentious tears. restaurants, It’s much it’s more a seemingly subtle than simple dish that some areas, includingor perhaps Gambia, a genius move by 225g (8oz) 1-2long-grain onions, orpeeled and sliced that – a gentlehides burn its complex of tomatoes, blend onions,of flavours hot pepperand textures. and al-dente Like most rice enchiladas that builds, half up slowlythe fun comes jollof rice is known as benachin, hungry tribesmen. In any case, basmati riceinto rings enough tofrom warm the the salsa taste and buds this without one, made blowing of tangy your tomatilloshead off with, (a light-greenintense heat. berry), The best serrano or which translatesthe as domestic ‘one pot’. cultivation of Whether you addmaize okra, or plantain corn thousands of 1 vegetable or chicken stock jollof is cookedjalapeño outdoors chillies in and vast a ironsprig cauldrons of coriander over (cilantro), wood fires, has infusing potency the and rice a hint with of a sweetness. or fish comesyears down ago to allowedfiercely the creation cube delicate smokinessThe tortillas and are leaving filled crunchy with poached scrapings shredded at the bottom chicken of and the topped pan. Eat with it in sliced a street- onions and held regional preferences. of tortillas, and it is likely 2 cups (500mL) boiling water side ‘chopsharp bar’ (local Mexican cafe, cheese often (suchin a shack) as queso to add añejo to )the so thatauthenticity. every bite Come offers late six morninglayers of greatness: Whatever, the colourthat somebody remains has been the same: a joyfulmaking bright some umber. kind of enchilada for lunch ortangy, dusk spicy, before a bitthe sweet, evening crunchy rush, when (from the the food onions is fresh, and the the tortillas), company sharp warm (from and the cheese)

ever since. CHRISTIAN ASLUND; ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN © GETTY IMAGES DANIELLE LEAVELL © GETTY IMAGES, JUSTIN FOULKES © LONELY PLANET IMAGES the radio blaring.and juicy ● chicken.by Nana Luckham ● by Mauricio Velázquez de León

23 79 49 DISHES

SERVES 2

MEXICO & SOUTHWESTERN USA Enchiladas To enchilar means to put chilli on something, which is precisely what you do with this dish of tortillas stuffed with chicken, beef, pork or eggs and slathered in chilli salsa.

You’ll need Method 10 tomatillos, husked 1 Boil the tomatillos and chillies in salted water 5 Heat the remaining oil in a small frying pan 3–4 serrano chillies or 2–3 for 10 minutes. Drain. and fry the tortillas quickly. You want to soften jalapeños the tortillas but don’t let them get too crispy. 2–3 sprigs of fresh coriander 2 Puree the soaked tomatillos and chillies, Drain on paper towels. (cilantro) coriander, onion and garlic to make a salsa. 1 small onion, peeled and cut This should make around 2½ cups (625mL) of 6 Pour a couple of tablespoons of the salsa on in chunks tomatillo sauce. to a plate. Lay a tortilla over it and put some 1 clove of garlic, peeled of the shredded chicken in the centre. Roll up. 2 tbs canola oil 3 Heat 1 tbs oil in a frying pan over a medium- Repeat with 3 more tortillas. 2 cups (500mL) chicken or high heat. Pour in the salsa and stir for 5 vegetable stock minutes; it will get darker and thicker. 7 Cover the enchiladas with salsa. Salt 2 tbs canola oil 4 Add the chicken or vegetable stock and salt 8 Sprinkle the enchiladas with cheese, 4 corn tortillas to taste, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 a dollop of cream and onion and serve. Origins 1 large chicken breast, cooked minutes. Keep warm.

Dipping lightly fried corn tortillas and shredded in salsa, or pouring salsa over ¼ cup (60mL) thick cream or them, may have been a culinary sour cream Tasting notes accident in pre-Hispanic Mexico ½ cup (125mL) queso añejo or (that is, before the arrival Enchiladas verdes (green enchiladas) are perhaps the most widely available enchiladas in of Spanish conquistadores), mild parmesan Mexico. Often eaten for dinner at unpretentious restaurants, it’s a seemingly simple dish that or perhaps a genius move by 1-2 onions, peeled and sliced hides its complex blend of flavours and textures. Like most enchiladas, half the fun comes hungry tribesmen. In any case, into rings from the salsa and this one, made of tangy tomatillos, (a light-green berry), serrano or the domestic cultivation of maize or corn thousands of jalapeño chillies and a sprig of coriander (cilantro), has potency and a hint of sweetness. years ago allowed the creation The tortillas are filled with poached shredded chicken and topped with sliced onions and of tortillas, and it is likely sharp Mexican cheese (such as queso añejo) so that every bite offers six layers of greatness: that somebody has been making some kind of enchilada tangy, spicy, a bit sweet, crunchy (from the onions and the tortillas), sharp (from the cheese)

ever since. DANIELLE LEAVELL © GETTY IMAGES, JUSTIN FOULKES © LONELY PLANET IMAGES and juicy chicken. ● by Mauricio Velázquez de León

24 49 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

How to make it Fry on a medium-high heat in JERUSALEM a heavy pan for 10 minutes or SERVES 4 until golden brown, then add the pomegranate molasses, cover ‘We’re inspired by trips we’ve SPICED CHICKEN Ingredients and turn the heat down low. made to the Middle East – 8 boneless, skinless chicken Cook for a further 15 minutes until thighs soft, sticky and sweet. we love discovering new with onions in pomegranate molasses pinch of sea salt flavours, bringing them back LAFFA, LONDON, UK flatbread wraps, to serve 3. Meanwhile, set your grill to its to London and putting our hummus, to serve highest setting (or even better, own twist on them.’ Laffa started out life in 2015 fresh lettuce, to serve light the barbecue!). Season the Gabriel Langford, co-owner when friends Gabriel and Ben quit chicken with salt and grill for their jobs and began food trucking For the marinade: 12–15 minutes, until golden and in an old converted horsebox. 2 tsp ground turmeric cooked through. Laffa's zingy wraps are a hit in London, where 1 tsp ground cumin their two bright-blue vans roam between Flat Iron 1 tsp ground coriander 4. Let the chicken rest for 5 Square, the Street Feast night markets and summer 1 tsp cracked black pepper minutes, then carve into bite- festivals. Food is inspired by travels in Israel 1 tsp sumac sized pieces and mix with the and Palestine and the smoky charcoal grills, 4 garlic cloves, crushed onions and the resting juices. spices and fresh-and-herby produce found on the 2 tbs natural yoghurt streets of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. Dishes feature 1 tbs olive oil 5. Serve with flatbread wraps, a combo of grilled marinated meats, salads, slaw, hummus and fresh lettuce and let sweet potato, aubergine and halloumi, all bundled For the onions: guests compile their own wraps. up in a hot laffa, or flatbread, and drizzled with 3 red onions piquant sauces. Their most popular dish, Jerusalem 3 tbs pomegranate molasses Spiced Chicken, is a take on the mixed grills of Israel, and consists of chicken thighs cooked over Method coals and seasoned with onion and citrusy spices. 1. Combine all the marinade It works brilliantly at a barbecue with salads, ingredients in a large bowl, add hummus and flatbread. the chicken thighs and turn to coat. Cover and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours, but Follow them on ideally overnight. Instagram: @laffastreetfood

25 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

26 VEGETABLESVEGETABLES

SERVES 2-4 SERVES 2-4

ENGLANDENGLAND MiddleMiddle Eastern Eastern PotatoPotato Salad Salad With its Withspicy itssoul spicy in the soul Middle in the East, Middle and East, its heart and its heart in rootedin in rooted the West, in the this West, simple this sweet simple potato sweet and potato and pomegranatepomegranate salad really salad punches really punches with worldly with favour.worldly favour.

You’ll You’llneed need MethodMethod For saladFor salad 1 Preheat1 the Preheat oven tothe 180˚C oven (350˚F)to 180˚C (350˚F) 2 large (550g)2 large sweet (550g) sweet potatoes,potatoes unpeeled, unpeeled 2 Quarter2 the Quarter unpeeled the unpeeled sweet potatoes sweet potatoeslengthways. lengthways. Drizzle ofDrizzle sunflower of sunflower oil oil pinch of saltpinch of salt 3 Put the3 sweet Put the potatoes sweet potatoeson baking on tray baking and drizzle tray and with drizzle with 10g parsley10g, chopped parsley, chopped sunflowersunflower oil, adding oil, a pinchadding of a salt.pinch Roast of salt. for Roast25-40 for minutes, 25-40 minutes, pomegranatepomegranate seeds, to seeds, tountil soft.until Remove soft. from Remove the ovenfrom andthe ovenleave and to cool. leave to cool. garnish garnish 4 Make the4 Makedressing the by dressing mixing bythe mixing cinnamon, the cinnamon, cumin, salt cumin, and salt and For dressingFor dressing yoghurt together.yoghurt together. ½ tsp ground½ tsp cinnamon ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground1 tsp cumin ground cumin 5 Arrange5 the Arrange cooled the sweet cooled potato sweet on potato a platter, on apour platter, the pour the OriginsOrigins ¼ tsp Himalayan¼ tsp Himalayan pink salt pink saltdressing overdressing it and over sprinkle it and with sprinkle the chopped with the choppedparsley. parsley. 250g goat’s or sheep’s milk I love that inI thelove Middle that in East the Middle East 250g goat’s or sheep’s milk they put so manythey putherbs so andmany herbs and yoghurt yoghurt 6 Serve with6 Serve a salad with or a as salad a side or dish,as a side garnished dish, garnished with the with the spices in theirspices food, in so their I wanted food, so I wanted pomegranatepomegranate seeds. seeds. to recreate theto recreate same sort the of same sort of flavours withflavours this salad. with I thiswas salad. I was also really inspiredalso really by Persian inspired by Persian TastingTasting notes notes chef and authorchef Sabrina and author Sabrina Served cold,Served the cold,roasted the sweet roasted potatoes sweet potatoeshave the havemost thewonderful most wonderful caramelised caramelised sweetness, sweetness, Ghayour – she encouraged Ghayour – she encouraged which is balancedwhich is balanced by the sour by notesthe sour of thenotes chopped of the choppedparsley and parsley yoghurt and dressing. yoghurt dressing.These These me to use variousme to spices use various in my spices in my cooking, andcooking, this led toand me this led to me flavours areflavours then complementedare then complemented by the dish’s by the Middle dish’s Eastern Middle influences: Eastern influences: cumin and cumin and including cinnamonincluding and cinnamon cumin and cumin cinnamon.cinnamon. The textures The aretextures just as are diverse, just as from diverse, the fromsoftness the ofsoftness the sweet of the potato sweet to potato the to the in the yoghurt dressing, which in the yoghurt dressing, which hard pomegranatehard pomegranate seeds, which seeds, pop which in your pop mouth. in your The mouth. wonderful The wonderful aromas of aromas the spices of the spices simply transformedsimply transformed the dish. It’s the dish. It’s ● my Middle Easternmy Middle take Eastern on the take on the send you sendon an you instant on an journey instant to journey faraway to lands. faraway ● Bylands. Natasha By Corrett. Natasha Recipe Corrett. from Recipe Honestly from Honestly

traditional potato salad. © LISA LINDER traditional potato salad. © LISA LINDER Healthy in Healthya Hurry. in a Hurry.

27 137 137 VEGETABLES

SERVES 2-4

ENGLAND Middle Eastern Potato Salad With its spicy soul in the Middle East, and its heart in rooted in the West, this simple sweet potato and pomegranate salad really punches with worldly favour.

You’ll need Method For salad 1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C (350˚F) 2 large (550g) sweet potatoes, unpeeled 2 Quarter the unpeeled sweet potatoes lengthways. Drizzle of sunflower oil pinch of salt 3 Put the sweet potatoes on baking tray and drizzle with 10g parsley, chopped sunflower oil, adding a pinch of salt. Roast for 25-40 minutes, pomegranate seeds, to until soft. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. garnish 4 Make the dressing by mixing the cinnamon, cumin, salt and For dressing yoghurt together. ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground cumin 5 Arrange the cooled sweet potato on a platter, pour the Origins ¼ tsp Himalayan pink salt dressing over it and sprinkle with the chopped parsley.

I love that in the Middle East 250g goat’s or sheep’s milk they put so many herbs and yoghurt 6 Serve with a salad or as a side dish, garnished with the spices in their food, so I wanted pomegranate seeds. to recreate the same sort of flavours with this salad. I was also really inspired by Persian Tasting notes chef and author Sabrina Served cold, the roasted sweet potatoes have the most wonderful caramelised sweetness, Ghayour – she encouraged which is balanced by the sour notes of the chopped parsley and yoghurt dressing. These me to use various spices in my cooking, and this led to me flavours are then complemented by the dish’s Middle Eastern influences: cumin and including cinnamon and cumin cinnamon. The textures are just as diverse, from the softness of the sweet potato to the in the yoghurt dressing, which hard pomegranate seeds, which pop in your mouth. The wonderful aromas of the spices simply transformed the dish. It’s my Middle Eastern take on the send you on an instant journey to faraway lands. ● By Natasha Corrett. Recipe from Honestly

traditional potato salad. © LISA LINDER Healthy in a Hurry.

28 137 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

How to make it 2. Heat a large frying pan over Chicken tikka medium-high heat, add the SERVES 4 chicken and cook for 20–25 minutes, flipping the chicken with slaw & naan Ingredients after 10–12 minutes, until cooked HANGRY CHEF, JOHANNESBURG, SOUTH AFRICA 4 tbs curry powder through. Set aside to rest for 4 tbs vegetable oil 10 minutes. Chef Dalmain Samuel started his 2 tbs garlic puree food truck, originally named 2 tbs red food colouring 3. Mix together all the slaw Chilli Chef, in September 2016. (optional) ingredients. A few months later, Dalmain’s pinch of salt wife Lynelle quit her corporate job to join 4 free-range chicken breasts 4. Mix together all the sauce the business; since then the food truck has 4 naans ingredients. flourished, and was recently rebranded ‘Hangry Chef’. The Durban couple are of Indian descent, For the slaw: 5. Place a line of the slaw on but the food they serve is not purely Indian. ½ head of red cabbage, each naan. When they were growing up, Lynelle explains, finely sliced their parents cooked both Indian and Western 2 carrots, grated 6. Cut the chicken into pieces dishes, but even the Western dishes had a bit of 4 tbs mayo and place on the slaw. Indian flavour. ‘You’d still use a lot of Indian salt, to taste spices, like the garam masala or curry powders,’ 7. Drizzle the sauce over the Lynelle says. Dalmain brings this combination For the sauce: chicken to finish. of influences to the Hangry Chef’s menu, where 100ml (3½fl oz) thick natural chicken burgers and beef stew sing with spices. yoghurt Find the truck at the Friday Hoods Market in 1 tsp mint sauce Sandton, or at the Standard Bank headquarters pinch of salt in downtown Jo’burg, as well as at events and private functions. Method 1. First, prepare the chicken. Combine the curry powder, oil, garlic, optional food colouring and salt in a large, shallow dish, Follow them on then add the chicken and turn to Instagram: @hangrychefft coat in the marinade. Cover and

29 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

30 FISH FISH& MEAT & MEAT

OriginsOrigins SERVES SERVES4 4 PopularPopular across Scotland,across Scotland, this this traditionaltraditional soup has soup its roots has its roots SCOTLANDSCOTLAND in the fishingin the fishingvillage ofvillage Cullen of Cullen on the Morayon the Firth. Moray ‘Skink’ Firth. is‘Skink’ is an old wordan old for word ‘shin for of ‘shinbeef’, of beef’, which becamewhich became synonymous synonymous with with CullenCullen Skink Skink a cheapa soup. cheap However, soup. However, in this in this One ofOne the of world’s the world’s finest finest seafood seafood soups, soups, Cullen Cullen skink skink part of Scotlandpart of Scotland – where – fish where fish was morewas plentiful more plentiful – cooks – de cooks- de- pulls pullsthe flavours the flavours of the of earththe earthand seaand together sea together in in cided tocided replace to replacethe meat the with meat with a heartya hearty haddock haddock chowder chowder that packsthat packs a real a punch. real punch. fish andfish thus and this thus much-loved this much-loved classic cameclassic into came being. into being. You’llYou’ll need need MethodMethod knob ofknob butter of butter 1 Melt1 the Melt butter the butter in a large in a panlarge over pan a over medium a medium 5 minutes, 5 minutes, until the until fish the is fish opaque is opaque and cooked and cooked 1 medium1 medium onion, onion, peeled peeled and and heat. heat. and theand leeks the areleeks just are tender. just tender. finely finelychopped chopped 2 medium2 medium potatoes, potatoes, skins on,skins on, 2 Add2 the Add chopped the chopped onion onionand cook and forcook about for about 6 Remove 6 Remove the fish the from fish thefrom milk the and milk gently and gently cut intocut chunks into chunks 10 minutes,10 minutes, until transparent until transparent but not but browned. not browned.flake it,flake removing it, removing any bones. any bones. 1 bay leaf1 bay leaf 120mL120mL (4fl oz) (4fl good oz)chicken goodchicken 3 Add3 the Add potatoes, the potatoes, bay leaf bay and leaf chicken and chicken 7 Add7 the Add milk, the leeks milk, andleeks fish and to fish the topotato the potato stock stock stock stockto the to pan the and pan simmer and simmer for 10–15 for 10–15 mixture,mixture, stir well stir to well combine to combine and cook and forcook a for a 500g (1lb500g 1 oz) (1lb undyed 1 oz) undyed smoked smoked minutes,minutes, until the until potato the potato is cooked. is cooked. furtherfurther 5 minutes. 5 minutes. haddockhaddock 1 leek,1 cutleek, into cut chunks into chunks 4 Remove4 Remove the bay the leaf bay and leaf lightly and lightlymash mashthe the8 Add8 the Add cream the cream and season and season to taste to withtaste salt with salt 568mL568mL (1 pint) (1 full-fat pint) full-fat milk milk potatoespotatoes against against the side the of side the of pan the using pan ausing aand pepper.and pepper. 120mL120mL (4fl oz) (4fl single oz) singlecream cream fork. fork. salt andsalt ground and ground black pepper,black pepper, 9 Sprinkle9 Sprinkle with chopped with chopped parsley parsley and serve and serve to tasteto taste 5 In a 5separate In a separate pan, poach pan, poach the haddock the haddock and andwith crustywith crusty bread bread and butter. and butter. parsleyparsley, chopped,, chopped, to garnish to garnish leek inleek the inmilk the over milk a over medium a medium heat for heat about for about crustycrusty bread bread and butter, and butter, to to serve serve TastingTasting notes notes SmoothSmooth and comforting and comforting and infused and infused with a with deep a deepsmokiness, smokiness, Cullen Cullen skink isskink one is of one those of those dishesdishes that are that easy are to easy make to makebut hard but tohard perfect. to perfect. Very fresh Very freshfish is fish essential, is essential, as are asfloury are floury potatoespotatoes and the and best the stock. best stock. The finished The finished result resultshould should have ahave rich ataste rich tasteof the ofsea the layered sea layered with thewith sweetness the sweetness of slow-cooked of slow-cooked onions onions and the and silkiness the silkiness of starchy of starchy potatoes potatoes and cream. and cream. A wholesomeA wholesome yet indulgent yet indulgent dish, thedish, smoothness the smoothness can be can counterbalanced be counterbalanced by leaving by leaving some some chunkschunks of fish of orfish potato or potato intact intact if you ifprefer you prefera meatier a meatier texture. texture. Cullen Cullenskink isskink best is enjoyedbest enjoyed by by the seaside,the seaside, ideally ideally with a with view a over view a over harbour a harbour where where brightly brightly coloured coloured fishing fishing boats boatsbob in bob in the waterthe wateragainst against a backdrop a backdrop of stone of stoneharbour harbour walls, walls,brooding brooding clouds clouds and craggy and craggy islands islands on on

CRAIG EASTON © LONELY PLANET, SIMON REDDY © ALAMY CRAIG EASTON © LONELY PLANET, SIMON REDDY © ALAMY the distantthe distant horizon. horizon. ● by Etain ● by O’Carroll Etain O’Carroll

31 157 157 FISH & MEAT

Origins SERVES 4 Popular across Scotland, this traditional soup has its roots SCOTLAND in the fishing village of Cullen on the Moray Firth. ‘Skink’ is an old word for ‘shin of beef’, which became synonymous with Cullen Skink a cheap soup. However, in this One of the world’s finest seafood soups, Cullen skink part of Scotland – where fish was more plentiful – cooks de- pulls the flavours of the earth and sea together in cided to replace the meat with a hearty haddock chowder that packs a real punch. fish and thus this much-loved classic came into being. You’ll need Method knob of butter 1 Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium 5 minutes, until the fish is opaque and cooked 1 medium onion, peeled and heat. and the leeks are just tender. finely chopped 2 medium potatoes, skins on, 2 Add the chopped onion and cook for about 6 Remove the fish from the milk and gently cut into chunks 10 minutes, until transparent but not browned. flake it, removing any bones. 1 bay leaf 120mL (4fl oz) goodchicken 3 Add the potatoes, bay leaf and chicken 7 Add the milk, leeks and fish to the potato stock stock to the pan and simmer for 10–15 mixture, stir well to combine and cook for a 500g (1lb 1 oz) undyed smoked minutes, until the potato is cooked. further 5 minutes. haddock 1 leek, cut into chunks 4 Remove the bay leaf and lightly mash the 8 Add the cream and season to taste with salt 568mL (1 pint) full-fat milk potatoes against the side of the pan using a and pepper. 120mL (4fl oz) single cream fork. salt and ground black pepper, 9 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve to taste 5 In a separate pan, poach the haddock and with crusty bread and butter. parsley, chopped, to garnish leek in the milk over a medium heat for about crusty bread and butter, to serve Tasting notes Smooth and comforting and infused with a deep smokiness, Cullen skink is one of those dishes that are easy to make but hard to perfect. Very fresh fish is essential, as are floury potatoes and the best stock. The finished result should have a rich taste of the sea layered with the sweetness of slow-cooked onions and the silkiness of starchy potatoes and cream. A wholesome yet indulgent dish, the smoothness can be counterbalanced by leaving some chunks of fish or potato intact if you prefer a meatier texture. Cullen skink is best enjoyed by the seaside, ideally with a view over a harbour where brightly coloured fishing boats bob in the water against a backdrop of stone harbour walls, brooding clouds and craggy islands on

CRAIG EASTON © LONELY PLANET, SIMON REDDY © ALAMY the distant horizon. ● by Etain O’Carroll

32 157 VEGETABLES VEGETABLES

ENGLAND ENGLAND Origins Origins SERVES 4 SERVES 4 This traditional English dish grew This traditional English dishBubble grew and squeak Bubble and squeak out of necessity: finding a use for out of necessity: finding a use for leftover vegetables from a roast leftover vegetables from a roast dinner. The earliest recipe dates dinner. The earliest recipewith dates poached eggs with poached eggs back to the early 19th century back to the early 19th century – its name relating to the sound – its name relating to the sound of the cabbage cooking. The of the cabbage cooking. The and watercress and watercress dish’s popularity grew during the dish’s popularity grew during the period around World War II when period around World War II whenThis veggie superfood-laden dish traditionally flashes on This veggie superfood-laden dish traditionally flashes on food rationing was mandatory. You’ll need food rationing was mandatory.the radar come Christmas, when theYou’ll fridge overfloweth need with the radar come Christmas, when the fridge overfloweth with Meat from the roast was often butter, for greasing Meat from the roast was oftenleftovers, but it’s great for a comfortingbutter, meal for greasing year-round. leftovers, but it’s great for a comforting meal year-round. included, but it’s left out more 150g (5oz) Brussels sprouts included, but it’s left out more 150g (5oz) Brussels sprouts often these days. often these days. 150g (5oz) dark green Method 150g (5oz) dark green Method cabbage, shredded 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F). 9 Bringcabbage a small pan, shredded of water to the boil then 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F). 9 Bring a small pan of water to the boil then 2 tbs olive oil reduce2 tbsit to olive a simmer, oil and add the vinegar reduce it to a simmer, and add the vinegar 200g (7oz) carrots, peeled 2 Grease a small (25 x 35cm; 10 x 14in) roasting and a200g pinch (7oz) of salt. carrots, peeled 2 Grease a small (25 x 35cm; 10 x 14in) roasting and a pinch of salt. and chopped dish. and chopped dish. 200g (7oz) parsnip, peeled 10 Crack200g the (7oz) eggs parsnip individually, peeled into a ramekin 10 Crack the eggs individually into a ramekin and chopped 3 Steam the Brussels sprouts until they are or cup.and Stir choppedthe simmering water to create a 3 Steam the Brussels sprouts until they are or cup. Stir the simmering water to create a 250g (9oz) squash, peeled, bright green and tender, about 6–8 minutes. gentle250g whirlpool, (9oz) squash then slowly, peeled, tip each egg into bright green and tender, about 6–8 minutes. gentle whirlpool, then slowly tip each egg into deseeded and chopped the vortex,deseeded white first.and chopped Leave to cook for 3 the vortex, white first. Leave to cook for 3 400g (14oz) potatoes, peeled 4 Steam the shredded cabbage for about 5–8 minutes.400g (14oz) potatoes, peeled 4 Steam the shredded cabbage for about 5–8 minutes. and chopped minutes. and chopped minutes. ½ tsp paprika 11 Remove½ tsp thepaprika eggs with a slotted spoon, and 11 Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon, and pinch of ground black pepper 5 Steam the root vegetables until soft, but not cut offpinch any wispyof ground edges black using pepper the edge of the 5 Steam the root vegetables until soft, but not cut off any wispy edges using the edge of the 1 tbs white wine vinegar mushy. Drain and leave to steam dry. spoon.1 tbs Drain white on kitchenwine vinegar paper. mushy. Drain and leave to steam dry. spoon. Drain on kitchen paper. pinch of salt pinch of salt 4 very fresh medium eggs 6 Pound the cooked root vegetables and 12 Cut4 verythe baked fresh mediumroot vegetable eggs and cabbage 6 Pound the cooked root vegetables and 12 Cut the baked root vegetable and cabbage 75g (3oz) watercress Brussels sprouts in a large bowl using a potato into sections,75g (3oz) and watercress top each serving with a Brussels sprouts in a large bowl using a potato into sections, and top each serving with a masher. poached egg and sprigs of watercress. masher. poached egg and sprigs of watercress.

Tasting notes Tasting7 notes Add the cabbage and the olive oil, then 7 Add the cabbage and the olive oil, then It’s early afternoon on Boxing Day and a general feeling of slothfulness pervades the house, It’s early afternoonseason with on Boxinga sprinkling Day and of paprika a general and feeling black of slothfulnessTIP You can pervades also make the bubble house, and squeak season with a sprinkling of paprika and black TIP You can also make bubble and squeak though it’s matched in equal parts with growing pangs of hunger. The latter wins over and two though it’s pepper.matched in equal parts with growing pangs of hunger.traditionally The latter by frying wins overroasted and leftover two veg, but pepper. traditionally by frying roasted leftover veg, but lightbulbs spark when the fridge door opens, one in the fridge itself, the other in your head as lightbulbs spark when the fridge door opens, one in the fridgewe’ve itself, used the a otherhealthier in your alternative: head as steaming we’ve used a healthier alternative: steaming you realise you have the makings of a rather tasty (and healthy) meal. Cabbage, carrots, and you realise 8you Spread have the mixturemakings inof the a rather greased tasty roasting (and healthy) unroasted meal. Cabbage, vegtables carrots, before bakingand the 8 Spread the mixture in the greased roasting unroasted vegtables before baking the mashed potatoes are usually key players, and Brussel sprouts are often a favourite too. The mashed potatoesdish and are bake usually on the key oven’s players, top and shelf Brussel for sproutsmixture. are often a favourite too. The dish and bake on the oven’s top shelf for mixture. collision of these earthy flavours is a sweet one, even better if some squash is involved. And collision of 20–30these earthyminutes flavours (it’s done is whena sweet crispy one, on even top). better if some squash is involved. And 20–30 minutes (it’s done when crispy on top). when it’s browned with olive oil, seasoned with paprika and a little pepper, and topped with when it’s browned with olive oil, seasoned with paprika and a little pepper, and topped with

a poached egg and some watercress, you have a happy home. ● By Matt Phillips BON APPETIT © ALAMY a poached egg and some watercress, you have a happy home. ● By Matt Phillips BON APPETIT © ALAMY

33 128 128 129 129 VEGETABLESVEGETABLES

ENGLANDENGLAND OriginsOrigins SERVES 4 SERVES 4 This traditionalThis English traditional dish grew English dish grew BubbleBubble and and squeak squeak out of necessity:out offinding necessity: a use finding for a use for leftover vegetablesleftover from vegetables a roast from a roast dinner. The earliestdinner. recipe The earliest dates recipe dates withwith poached poached eggs eggs back to the earlyback 19th to the century early 19th century – its name relating– its name to the relating sound to the sound of the cabbageof cooking.the cabbage The cooking. The andand watercress watercress dish’s popularitydish’s grew popularity during thegrew during the period aroundperiod World around War II whenWorld War II when This veggieThis superfood-laden veggie superfood-laden dish traditionally dish traditionally flashes flasheson on food rationingfood was rationing mandatory. was mandatory. You’ll You’llneed need the radarthe come radar Christmas, come Christmas, when the when fridge the overfloweth fridge overfloweth with with Meat from theMeat roast from was the often roast was often butter, forbutter, greasing for greasing leftovers,leftovers, but it’s great but it’s for great a comforting for a comforting meal year-round. meal year-round. included, butincluded, it’s left out but more it’s left out more 150g (5oz)150g Brussels (5oz) sprouts Brussels sprouts often these days.often these days. 150g (5oz)150g dark (5oz) green dark green MethodMethod cabbage, cabbageshredded, shredded 1 Preheat1 the Preheat oven tothe 220°C oven (425°F).to 220°C (425°F). 9 Bring a small9 Bring pan a smallof water pan to of the water boil to then the boil then 2 tbs olive2 oil tbs olive oil reduce it reduceto a simmer, it to aand simmer, add the and vinegar add the vinegar 200g (7oz)200g carrots (7oz), peeled carrots , peeled 2 Grease 2a smallGrease (25 a xsmall 35cm; (25 10 x x35cm; 14in) roasting10 x 14in) roastingand a pinch and of a salt. pinch of salt. and choppedand chopped dish. dish. 200g (7oz)200g parsnip (7oz), peeled parsnip , peeled 10 Crack 10the Crack eggs individually the eggs individually into a ramekin into a ramekin and choppedand chopped 3 Steam the3 Steam Brussels the sprouts Brussels until sprouts they untilare they orare cup. Stiror the cup. simmering Stir the simmering water to create water toa create a 250g (9oz)250g squash (9oz), peeled, squash , peeled, bright greenbright and green tender, and about tender, 6–8 about minutes. 6–8 minutes.gentle whirlpool,gentle whirlpool, then slowly then tip eachslowly egg tip intoeach egg into deseededdeseeded and chopped and chopped the vortex,the white vortex, first. white Leave first. to cookLeave for to 3 cook for 3 400g (14oz)400g potatoes, (14oz) potatoes,peeled peeled 4 Steam the4 Steam shredded the shreddedcabbage for cabbage about for5–8 about minutes. 5–8 minutes. and choppedand chopped minutes. minutes. ½ tsp paprika½ tsp paprika 11 Remove11 the Remove eggs with the eggsa slotted with spoon,a slotted and spoon, and pinch of groundpinch of black ground pepper black pepper 5 Steam the5 Steam root vegetables the root vegetables until soft, untilbut notsoft, butcut notoff anycut wispy off anyedges wispy using edges the edgeusing ofthe the edge of the 1 tbs white1 tbswine white vinegar wine vinegar mushy. Drainmushy. and Drainleave andto steam leave dry.to steam dry. spoon. Drainspoon. on kitchen Drain on paper. kitchen paper. pinch of saltpinch of salt 4 very fresh4 very medium fresh eggs medium eggs 6 Pound the6 Pound cooked the root cooked vegetables root vegetables and and12 Cut the12 baked Cut the root baked vegetable root vegetableand cabbage and cabbage 75g (3oz) watercress75g (3oz) watercress Brussels sproutsBrussels in sprouts a large bowlin a large using bowl a potato using a potatointo sections, into andsections, top each and servingtop each with serving a with a masher. masher. poached eggpoached and sprigs egg and of watercress. sprigs of watercress.

TastingTasting notes notes 7 Add the7 cabbage Add the and cabbage the olive and oil, the then olive oil, then It’s early afternoonIt’s early afternoon on Boxing on Day Boxing and a Day general and afeeling general of feelingslothfulness of slothfulness pervades pervadesthe house, the house, season withseason a sprinkling with a sprinklingof paprika of and paprika black and blackTIP You canTIP also You make can also bubble make and bubble squeak and squeak though it’sthough matched it’s inmatched equal parts in equal with parts growing with pangs growing of hunger.pangs of The hunger. latter The wins latter over winsand twoover and two pepper. pepper. traditionallytraditionally by frying roasted by frying leftover roasted veg, leftover but veg, but lightbulbslightbulbs spark when spark the whenfridge the door fridge opens, door one opens, in the one fridge in the itself, fridge the itself,other thein your other head in your as head as we’ve usedwe’ve a healthier used a alternative:healthier alternative: steaming steaming you realiseyou you realise have theyou makingshave the of makings a rather of tasty a rather (and tasty healthy) (and meal. healthy) Cabbage, meal. Cabbage,carrots, and carrots, and 8 Spread 8the Spread mixture the in mixture the greased in the roasting greased roastingunroasted unroasted vegtables vegtablesbefore baking before the baking the mashed potatoesmashed arepotatoes usually are key usually players, key and players, Brussel and sprouts Brussel are sprouts often area favourite often a too.favourite The too. The dish and bakedish onand the bake oven’s on the top oven’s shelf fortop shelf formixture. mixture. collision ofcollision these earthy of these flavours earthy is flavours a sweet is one, a sweet even one,better even if somebetter squash if some is involved.squash is involved.And And 20–30 minutes20–30 (it’s minutes done when(it’s done crispy when on top).crispy on top). when it’s brownedwhen it’s withbrowned olive withoil, seasoned olive oil, seasonedwith paprika with and paprika a little and pepper, a little and pepper, topped and with topped with

a poacheda eggpoached and some egg and watercress, some watercress, you have ayou happy have home. a happy ● By home. Matt Phillips ● By Matt Phillips BON APPETIT © ALAMY BON APPETIT © ALAMY

34 128 128 129 129 RATATOUILLE Ratatouille

Serves 10–12 Cut the fresh tomatoes into cubes and set this fruit Preparation and cooking time: 1 aside until step 5. 2hr 30min Chop all the vegetables into cubes and keep them 5 tomatoes 2 separate from one another. 5 white onions 3 yellow peppers In separate pans, or one ingredient at a time, fry the 3 red peppers 3 vegetables in 1 tbsp olive oil with one whole clove 5 courgettes/zucchinis of garlic in each pan, season with salt and keep 5 aubergines/eggplants tossing until they are cooked but not too soft. For the 2 tbsp olive oil aubergines/eggplants, fry on a high heat so it doesn’t 1 head of garlic become a sponge for the oil. salt, to taste 200g (7oz) crushed tinned tomatoes When each vegetable is cooked, discard the garlic pepper, to taste 4 clove and place the vegetables in a colander to drain 10 basil leaves off the oil.

In a large pot, put in 1 tbsp olive oil, the remaining 5 garlic, crushed tomatoes, fresh tomatoes, salt and pepper, to taste. Fold together with the cooked vegatables and heat through. Lift out and discard the garlic cloves, then heat for a further 10 minutes. Sprinkle on the basil and serve the dish as an accompaniment to meat or fish.

‘My great-grandmother walked Tip here over the mountains from Italy Not everyone has enough pans to cook all the in bare feet, so as not to damage vegetables at the same time, so two pans will do. The her shoes, then when she arrived in vegetable that takes longest to cook is the aubergine/ eggplant, and the shortest is the courgette/zucchini, Nice to meet her new boss, she put so use one pan for the onions followed by the peppers, them back on.’ and the other for the aubergines/eggplants followed Raphaël Acchiardo by the courgettes/zucchini.

35 252 | Southeast France RATATOUILLE Ratatouille

36 252 | Southeast France AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

How to make it Method Vegetable 1. Heat the oil a large pan, add the SERVES 5-6 onion, garlic, carrots, celery and thyme and sauté for 10 minutes. & chickpea Ingredients For the filling: 2. Add the green beans, peas, ‘Starting a food van was 1 tbs rapeseed oil sun-dried tomatoes, stock intended to be a stepping shepherd’s pie 1 large onion, diced powder, canned tomatoes, stone to the “real dream” 2 garlic cloves, minced lentils, yeast extract and of opening a cafe or THE SPOTLESS LEOPARD, BRISTOL, UK 2 carrots, diced chickpeas, with the chickpea restaurant… Now I can’t 1 celery stick, diced liquid and stir to combine. see myself ever having The Spotless Leopard is run by leaves from 1 sprig of thyme a fixed location!’ founder Louise Abel in a converted handful of green beans, 3. Simmer for 30 minutes, until Renault Master van. Her mission? chopped the lentils are soft, adding water Louise Abel, owner To make beautiful, delicious, few handfuls of frozen peas if necessary. Season to taste. healthy, ethical food – and it’s all vegan to small jar of sun-dried tomatoes, boot. Louise started the business in 2012 after drained & finely chopped 4. Preheat the oven to 200°C finishing a degree in fashion design; she’s self- 1 tbs vegetable stock powder (350°F). taught, and has mostly just learned on the job. And 400g (14oz) canned chopped the experimenting continues to this day: from her tomatoes 5. For the mash, boil the potatoes regular pitch in Bristol, she dishes up an ever- 100g (33/4oz) dried brown in a pan. Once soft, mash with changing menu that includes everything from protein- lentils the butter and add salt to taste. packed seitan steak sandwiches to hearty ‘chilli 1 tbs yeast extract non carne’ – and some seriously decadent cakes. 400g (14oz) canned chickpeas 6. Fill two-thirds of a casserole It’s not just running a business and catering for salt & ground black pepper, with the filling, top with the mash crowds that have been an experience, though, it’s to taste and use a fork to mark stripes. also the array of events: the van has taken her to a medieval wedding where the bride was kidnapped For the mash: 7. Bake for 30 minutes, during a Saxon invasion, a Gothic wedding atop a 5 potatoes (mix of sweet & until golden. mountain in Wales, inside the ruins of a bombed white), chopped cathedral, and many other wacky venues besides. 3 tbs vegan butter salt, to taste Follow them on Instagram: @thespotlessleopard

37 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

38 STEWS, BRAISESSTEWS, BRAISES & HEARTY & BOWLSHEARTY BOWLS

FRANCE FRANCE SERVES 4 SERVES 4 BoeufBoeuf bourguignon bourguignon Sure, it’s Sure,sophisticated it’s sophisticated bowl food, bowl but food, don’t but be intimidateddon’t be intimidated by this French by this French classic. It’sclassic. not hard It’s tonot make, hard toand make, will fill and your will fillhome your with home the heavenlywith the smellheavenly smell of beef slowlyof beef braising slowly in braising red wine. in red Comfort wine. Comfortfood par foodexcellence par excellence. .

You’ll needYou’ll need MethodMethod 1 tbs olive oil1 tbs olive oil 1 Melt 1 tbs1 oliveMelt oil1 tbs in aolive heavy oil casserolein a heavy overcasserole 5 overWhile the5 meatWhile is the cooking, meat isheat cooking, 1 tbs butterheat 1 tbs butter 200g (7oz) 200gunsmoked (7oz) unsmokedbacon, bacon, medium-highmedium-high heat. Add theheat. bacon Add theand baconfry andin fry a large fryingin a large pan, fryingadd the pan, pearl add onions the pearl or onions or cut into 2½cmcut into (1in) 2½cm batons (1in) batons until golden,until then golden, scoop then out scoopwith a outslotted with a slottedshallots andshallots saute overand saute medium over heat medium for about heat for about 1.5kg (3½lb)1.5kg stewing (3½lb) beef stewing beef spoon and spoonset aside. and set aside. 10 minutes,10 rolling minutes, to brown rolling evenly. to brown Set evenly.aside Set aside (cheek, chuck(cheek, or shin), chuck cut or shin), cut into 5cm (2in)into pieces 5cm (2in) pieces 2 Roll the beef2 Roll in the flour, beef and in flour,in the sameand in pan,the same6 Heatpan, 2 tbs6 Heatbutter 2 tbsin the butter same in pan, the sameadd pan, add 2 tbs plain 2(all-purpose) tbs plain (all-purpose) flour flour fry in batches,fry in without batches, overcrowding, without overcrowding, until untilthe mushroomsthe mushrooms and toss for and 5 minutes,toss for 5until minutes, until 1 onion, peeled1 onion, and peeled finely and finely deeply browned.deeply Setbrowned. aside. Set aside. lightly browned.lightly browned. chopped chopped 1 carrot, peeled1 carrot, and peeled finely and finely 3 In the same3 In pan, the samecook thepan, chopped cook the onion, chopped onion,7 Add the 7onions Add theand onions mushrooms and mushrooms to the pan to the pan sliced sliced carrot and carrotgarlic overand garlicmedium over heat medium for 3-4 heat forwith 3-4 the meatwith after the meat 2½ hours after of2½ cooking. hours of cooking. 3 garlic cloves,3 garlic peeled cloves, and peeled and minutes, untilminutes, softened, until stirringsoftened, frequently. stirring frequently. Add Season Add to tasteSeason and to cook, taste covered,and cook, for covered, 30 for 30 minced minced the wine, tomatothe wine, paste tomato and bouquetpaste and garni. bouquet garni.minutes more.minutes more. 1 bottle Burgundy1 bottle orBurgundy another or another Bring to a boil,Bring scraping to a boil, the scraping bottom the of bottomthe pan. of the pan. good-qualitygood-quality light red wine light red wine 8 Serve with8 Serveboiled with potatoes boiled or potatoes crusty bread, or crusty bread, 1½ tbs tomato1½ tbs paste tomato paste 4 Return the4 Return beef and the bacon beef andto the bacon pan towith the panor with boost theor comfortboost the factor comfort with factor a buttery with a buttery bouquet garnibouquet garni enough stockenough to cover. stock Cover to cover. the panCover and the pan andpotato puree.potato puree. 2-3 cups beef2-3 cupsstock beef stock simmer gently,simmer stirring gently, occasionally, stirring occasionally, until the until the OriginsOrigins 3 tbs butter3 tbs butter meat is verymeat tender is very (about tender 3 hours). (about 3 hours).

The dish we knowThe dishtoday we is knowthe today is the 340g (12oz)340g pearl (12oz) onions pearl or onions or work of two famouswork of chefs, two famous one chefs, one shallots, peeledshallots, peeled French, one American.French, one Auguste American. Auguste 340g (12oz)340g small (12oz) button small button TastingTasting notes notes Escoffier, theEscoffier, great moderniser the great moderniser mushroomsmushrooms of French cuisine,of French published cuisine, published Not far fromNot the far centre from the of France,centre ofBurgundy France, (BourgogneBurgundy (Bourgogne in French) inlikes French) to claim likes it’s to the claim it’s the his recipe in 1903;his recipe Julia Child,in 1903; Julia Child, salt and pepper,salt and to pepper, taste to taste country’s gastronomiccountry’s gastronomic heart. You’ll heart. find You’llaround find 30 aroundMichelin-starred 30 Michelin-starred restaurants restaurants in the in the in Mastering thein Mastering Art of French the Art of French boiled potatoes,boiled crustypotatoes, bread crusty bread region, butregion, for a traditional, but for a traditional, non-deconstructed non-deconstructed boeuf bourguignon boeuf bourguignon hunt down hunt a classic down a classic Cooking, updatedCooking it for, updated the it for the or potato puree,or potato to serve puree, to serve bistro suchbistro as Ma such Cuisine as Ma in CuisineBeaune. in It’s Beaune. the stuff It’s that the Frenchstuff that dining French dreams dining are dreams made are made home cook in home1961. Butcook you in 1961. But you can tell it’s a peasantcan tell cuisineit’s a peasant cuisine of – stumblingof – acrossstumbling an unassumingacross an unassuming little resto little in a hiddenresto in alleyway a hidden and alleyway receiving and areceiving warm a warm classic by its long,classic slow by cookingits long, slow cooking welcome intowelcome a cosy, into modest a cosy, dining modest room. dining Leaving room. a coupleLeaving of a hourscouple later, of hours replete later, after replete an after an time and the localtime provenanceand the local provenance earthy terrineearthy de terrinecampagne de campagne, a bowl of, richa bowl boeuf of rich bourguignon boeuf bourguignon, slow-braised, slow-braised for hours infor hours in of its traditionalof itsingredients traditional – ingredients – Charolais cattleCharolais from southern cattle from southern good localgood wine localand perhaps wine and some perhaps pungent some époisses pungent de époisses Bourgogne de Bourgogne cheese to cheesefinish.Bon to finish. Bon

Burgundy and Burgundythe region’s and the region’s © NINAM / SHUTTERSTOCK © NINAM / SHUTTERSTOCK appétit! ● appétit!by Janine ● Eberle by Janine Eberle celebrated Pinotcelebrated noir wine. Pinot noir wine.

39 161 161 STEWS, BRAISES & HEARTY BOWLS

FRANCE SERVES 4 Boeuf bourguignon Sure, it’s sophisticated bowl food, but don’t be intimidated by this French classic. It’s not hard to make, and will fill your home with the heavenly smell of beef slowly braising in red wine. Comfort food par excellence.

You’ll need Method 1 tbs olive oil 1 Melt 1 tbs olive oil in a heavy casserole over 5 While the meat is cooking, heat 1 tbs butter 200g (7oz) unsmoked bacon, medium-high heat. Add the bacon and fry in a large frying pan, add the pearl onions or cut into 2½cm (1in) batons until golden, then scoop out with a slotted shallots and saute over medium heat for about 1.5kg (3½lb) stewing beef spoon and set aside. 10 minutes, rolling to brown evenly. Set aside (cheek, chuck or shin), cut into 5cm (2in) pieces 2 Roll the beef in flour, and in the same pan, 6 Heat 2 tbs butter in the same pan, add 2 tbs plain (all-purpose) flour fry in batches, without overcrowding, until the mushrooms and toss for 5 minutes, until 1 onion, peeled and finely deeply browned. Set aside. lightly browned. chopped 1 carrot, peeled and finely 3 In the same pan, cook the chopped onion, 7 Add the onions and mushrooms to the pan sliced carrot and garlic over medium heat for 3-4 with the meat after 2½ hours of cooking. 3 garlic cloves, peeled and minutes, until softened, stirring frequently. Add Season to taste and cook, covered, for 30 minced the wine, tomato paste and bouquet garni. minutes more. 1 bottle Burgundy or another Bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan. good-quality light red wine 8 Serve with boiled potatoes or crusty bread, 1½ tbs tomato paste 4 Return the beef and bacon to the pan with or boost the comfort factor with a buttery bouquet garni enough stock to cover. Cover the pan and potato puree. 2-3 cups beef stock simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the Origins 3 tbs butter meat is very tender (about 3 hours).

The dish we know today is the 340g (12oz) pearl onions or work of two famous chefs, one shallots, peeled French, one American. Auguste 340g (12oz) small button Tasting notes Escoffier, the great moderniser mushrooms of French cuisine, published Not far from the centre of France, Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) likes to claim it’s the his recipe in 1903; Julia Child, salt and pepper, to taste country’s gastronomic heart. You’ll find around 30 Michelin-starred restaurants in the in Mastering the Art of French boiled potatoes, crusty bread region, but for a traditional, non-deconstructed boeuf bourguignon hunt down a classic Cooking, updated it for the or potato puree, to serve bistro such as Ma Cuisine in Beaune. It’s the stuff that French dining dreams are made home cook in 1961. But you can tell it’s a peasant cuisine of – stumbling across an unassuming little resto in a hidden alleyway and receiving a warm classic by its long, slow cooking welcome into a cosy, modest dining room. Leaving a couple of hours later, replete after an time and the local provenance earthy terrine de campagne, a bowl of rich boeuf bourguignon, slow-braised for hours in of its traditional ingredients – Charolais cattle from southern good local wine and perhaps some pungent époisses de Bourgogne cheese to finish.Bon

40 161 STEWS, BRAISESSTEWS, BRAISES & HEARTY & BOWLSHEARTY BOWLS

You’ll need FRANCE 6–8 dried whole chillies SERVES 4 SERVES 4 (pasilla, guajillo, New Mexico, TEXAS, USA or a mixture) Boeuf bourguignon 1½ tsp ground cumin Sure, it’s sophisticated bowl food, but don’t be intimidated by this French ½ tsp ground black pepper classic. It’s not hardChilli to make, and will fill con your home withcarne the heavenly smell salt of beef slowlyThis braising behemoth in red of wine. bowl Comfort foods, laden food with par excellencebeef and chillies,. 2¼ cups water is much like a hug from your mother – its rich embrace You’ll need5 tbs lard Method dispels your ills and whispers ‘all will be well’. 1 tbs olive oil1kg (2lb 2oz) of well-trimmed 1 Melt 1 tbs olive oil in a heavy casserole over 5 While the meat is cooking, heat 1 tbs butter 200g (7oz) unsmokedand cubed bacon, (1½cm/½in) beef medium-highMethod heat. Add the bacon and fry in a large frying pan, add the pearl onions or cut into 2½cmchuck (1in) batons until golden,1 Gentlythen scoop toast outthe withchillies a slotted in a large fryingshallots pan and5 sauteWhisk over in the medium masa harina heat for gradually, about then stir 1.5kg (3½lb)⅓ stewing cup finely beef chopped peeled spoon and overset aside. medium-low heat for 2–3 minutes.10 Place minutes, in rolling the chilli to brown paste. evenly. Add the Set beef aside with its juices (cheek, chuckyellow or shin),onion cut in a bowl, cover with boiling water and soak and turn up the heat. into 5cm 3(2in) cloves pieces of garlic, minced 2 Roll the beefuntil soft,in flour, 30–45 and minutes. in the same Drain pan, and split,6 Heat then 2 tbs butter in the same pan, add 2 tbs plain 2(all-purpose) cups beef stock flour fry in batches,remove without seeds overcrowding, and stems. until the mushrooms6 Once and the toss mixture for 5 minutes,starts to untilsimmer, reduce 1 onion, peeled2 tbs andmasa finely harina (corn flour) deeply browned. Set aside. lightly browned.the heat to a low simmer. Cook for 2 hours, chopped1 tbs muscovado brown sugar, 2 Thoroughly blend the chillies with the cumin, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender. 1 carrot, peeledfirmly and packed finely 3 In the sameblack pan, pepper, cook the1 tbs chopped salt and onion,¼ of the cup7 waterAdd the onions and mushrooms to the pan sliced 1½ tbs white vinegar carrot and togarlic create over a mediumsmooth, heatfluid for paste. 3-4 Set aside.with the meat7 Thoroughly after 2½ hours stir in ofthe cooking. muscovado sugar and 3 garlic cloves,sour peeledcream, andto serve minutes, until softened, stirring frequently. Add Season to tastevinegar and and cook, season covered, to taste. for Gently30 simmer for minced lime wedges, to serve the wine, tomato3 Melt paste2 tbs lardand inbouquet the frying garni. pan over minutes more.another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat 1 bottle Burgundy or another Bring to a boil,medium-high scraping the heat. bottom When of it the starts pan. to smoke, and let stand for at least 30 minutes. good-quality light red wine add the beef in batches and cook for 68 Serve with boiled potatoes or crusty bread, 1½ tbs tomato paste 4 Return theminutes beef andor until bacon lightly to thebrowned. pan with Set aside.or boost the8 comfortIf the chilli factor seems with too a dry, buttery add more stock or bouquet garni enough stock to cover. Cover the pan and potato puree.water; simmer more if it’s too wet. Add more Origins 2-3 cups beef stock simmer gently,4 Melt stirring the remaining occasionally, lard until and theadd the onion salt, sugar, or vinegar to taste.

OriginsStories of chilli’s origin are as 3 tbs butter meat is veryand tender garlic. (about Cook 3gently, hours). stirring occasionally, The dish we variedknow today and fantastical is the as versions 340g (12oz) pearl onions or for 3–4 minutes, then pour in the stock and 9 Reheat gently and serve in bowls with sour work of two famousof the recipechefs, today.one One Native shallots, peeled remaining 2 cups of water. cream and lime wedges. French, one American.American Auguste legend credits 17th- 340g (12oz) small button century Spanish nun Sister Mary Tasting notes Escoffier, the great moderniser mushrooms of French cuisine,of Agreda published (though she never set Not far from the centre of France, Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) likes to claim it’s the his recipe in 1903;foot in Julia America), Child, while another salt and pepper, to taste country’s gastronomicTasting notes heart. You’ll find around 30 Michelin-starred restaurants in the in Masteringtheory the Art suggests of French immigrants from boiled potatoes, crusty bread region, butDepending for a traditional, on your non-deconstructed tolerance for spices, boeuf a spoonful bourguignon of chilli hunt con downcarne a can classic generate a variety the Canary Islands introduced Cooking, updated it for the or potato puree, to serve bistro suchof as responses, Ma Cuisine from in Beaune. wrapping It’s your the stuffpalate that in a French figurative dining fuzzy dreams blanket are tomade blasting it with a home cook inthe 1961. dish. But Most you likely, however, can tell it’s ais peasant that it wascuisine created for cattle of – stumblingblowtorch. across Andan unassuming therein lies little the joyresto of makingin a hidden your alleyway own: you and can receiving establish a yourwarm perfect level classic by its long,drivers slow – dried cooking beef, fat, chillies welcome intoof heat. a cosy, Chillies modest aside, dining the room.flavours Leaving in the a couplebowl are of always hours later,warming, replete with aftergarlic, an onions, beef and salt pounded into bricks time and the local provenance earthy terrineand dea variety campagne of spices, a bowl each of playingrich boeuf their bourguignon part. In Texas, slow-braised (where it is thefor hoursofficial in state dish), it’s of its traditionalthat ingredients could be rehydrated – while Charolais cattle fromtraversing southern between Texas good localjust wine known and perhaps as ‘chili’ some or ‘bowl pungent o’ red’, époisses and in depurist’s Bourgogne recipes cheese you won’t to finish. find Bon beans, tomatoes and California. Burgundy and the region’s © NINAM / SHUTTERSTOCK appétit!© MYLES NEW / LONELY PLANET, © STEVE BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ●or by mincedJanine Eberle beef (steak or brisket is used). ● by Matt Phillips celebrated Pinot noir wine.

41 161 169 STEWS, BRAISES & HEARTY BOWLS

You’ll need 6–8 dried whole chillies SERVES 4 (pasilla, guajillo, New Mexico, TEXAS, USA or a mixture) 1½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground black pepper Chilli con carne salt This behemoth of bowl foods, laden with beef and chillies, 2¼ cups water is much like a hug from your mother – its rich embrace 5 tbs lard dispels your ills and whispers ‘all will be well’. 1kg (2lb 2oz) of well-trimmed and cubed (1½cm/½in) beef Method chuck 1 Gently toast the chillies in a large frying pan 5 Whisk in the masa harina gradually, then stir ⅓ cup finely chopped peeled over medium-low heat for 2–3 minutes. Place in the chilli paste. Add the beef with its juices yellow onion in a bowl, cover with boiling water and soak and turn up the heat. 3 cloves of garlic, minced until soft, 30–45 minutes. Drain and split, then 2 cups beef stock remove seeds and stems. 6 Once the mixture starts to simmer, reduce 2 tbs masa harina (corn flour) the heat to a low simmer. Cook for 2 hours, 1 tbs muscovado brown sugar, 2 Thoroughly blend the chillies with the cumin, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender. firmly packed black pepper, 1 tbs salt and ¼ of the cup water 1½ tbs white vinegar to create a smooth, fluid paste. Set aside. 7 Thoroughly stir in the muscovado sugar and sour cream, to serve vinegar and season to taste. Gently simmer for lime wedges, to serve 3 Melt 2 tbs lard in the frying pan over another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat medium-high heat. When it starts to smoke, and let stand for at least 30 minutes. add the beef in batches and cook for 6 minutes or until lightly browned. Set aside. 8 If the chilli seems too dry, add more stock or water; simmer more if it’s too wet. Add more Origins 4 Melt the remaining lard and add the onion salt, sugar, or vinegar to taste.

Stories of chilli’s origin are as and garlic. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, varied and fantastical as versions for 3–4 minutes, then pour in the stock and 9 Reheat gently and serve in bowls with sour of the recipe today. One Native remaining 2 cups of water. cream and lime wedges. American legend credits 17th- century Spanish nun Sister Mary of Agreda (though she never set foot in America), while another Tasting notes theory suggests immigrants from Depending on your tolerance for spices, a spoonful of chilli con carne can generate a variety the Canary Islands introduced the dish. Most likely, however, of responses, from wrapping your palate in a figurative fuzzy blanket to blasting it with a is that it was created for cattle blowtorch. And therein lies the joy of making your own: you can establish your perfect level drivers – dried beef, fat, chillies of heat. Chillies aside, the flavours in the bowl are always warming, with garlic, onions, beef and salt pounded into bricks that could be rehydrated while and a variety of spices each playing their part. In Texas (where it is the official state dish), it’s traversing between Texas just known as ‘chili’ or ‘bowl o’ red’, and in purist’s recipes you won’t find beans, tomatoes and California. © MYLES NEW / LONELY PLANET, © STEVE BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES or minced beef (steak or brisket is used). ● by Matt Phillips

42 169 DISHESDISHES

OriginsOrigins SERVES 4SERVES 4 The originThe of these origin thin, of these springy thin, springy wheat noodleswheat is noodles generally is generally thought tothought be China. to beHowever, China. However, JAPANJAPAN down the downcenturies the centuriesrāmen rāmen has becomehas a become cornerstone a cornerstone of of Japanese Japanesecuisine and cuisine there's and there's a vast rangea vast of ways range to of serve ways to serve GekikaraGekikara ramen ramen the noodles,the either noodles, in a either soupy in a soupy stock or drystock with or dipping dry with sauce. dipping sauce. GekikaraGekikara translates translates from Japanese from Japanese as 'hellishly as 'hellishly spicy'. spicy'.Slurping Slurping In fact, rāmenIn fact, has rāmen developed has developed an an these noodles,these noodles, the broth the brimmingbroth brimming with chilli with and chilli pepper, and pepper, may be may be internationalinternational cult following, cult following,with with like ingestinglike ingesting molten molten lava, but lava, is alsobut isa curiouslyalso a curiously addictive addictive experience. experience. chefs vyingchefs to prepare vying to unique prepare unique recipes, includingrecipes, gekikara.including gekikara. You’llYou’ll need need MethodMethod 2L (3½ 2Lpints) (3½ chicken pints) chicken stock stock 1 Add the1 Add garlic, the ginger, garlic, leek,ginger, carrot, leek, kombucarrot, kombu 4 garlic 4cloves, garlic smashedcloves, smashed and whiteand pepper white pepperto the stock to the and stock bring and to bring to 4cm root4cm ginger, root slicedginger, sliced the boil.the boil. 1 leek, chopped1 leek, chopped 1 carrot,1 choppedcarrot, chopped 2 Add soy,2 Add mirin, soy, sugar, mirin, gochujang sugar, gochujang and chilli and chilli 1 piece 1of piece kombu of kombu oil, thenoil, reduce then reducethe heat the and heat simmer and simmerfor 15 for 15 1 tsp white1 tsp pepper white pepper minutes.minutes. Remove Remove the kombu the, kombuthen cook, then for cook a for a 2 tbsp soy2 tbsp sauce soy sauce further furtherhour. Strain hour. and Strain discard and discardsolids. solids. 2 tbsp mirin2 tbsp (cooking mirin (cooking sake) sake) 2 tbsp white2 tbsp sugar white sugar 3 Boil the3 Boil noodles the noodles in plenty in of plenty water of until water al until al 120ml (4oz)120ml gochujang (4oz) gochujang paste/ paste/ dente anddente divide and between divide between four bowls. four bowls. hot pepperhot pepperpaste paste 1–2 tbsp1–2 chilli tbsp oil chillito taste oil to taste 4 Top with4 Top half with an egg,half anbamboo egg, bamboo shoots, shoots,nori, nori, 540g (1lb)540g ramen (1lb) noodles,ramen noodles, sesamesesame seeds and seeds spring and onions, spring onions,then ladle then ladle cookedcooked the spicythe soup spicy over soup the over top theto serve. top to serve. 2 hard boiled2 hard eggs, boiled halved eggs, halved pickled pickledbamboo bamboo shoots, shoots,nori nori sheets, sheets,black sesame black sesame seeds seeds and slicedand spring sliced onions, spring onions,to to TastingTasting notes notes garnish garnish Rāmen Rāmenbars specialising bars specialising in this dish in this often dish make often it make available it available in gradations in gradations of spiciness, of spiciness, from from temporarilytemporarily tongue tonguenumbing numbing to off the to offradioactive the radioactive scale. The scale. chef The will chef freshly will freshlyprepare prepare the the dish fordish you, for ladling you, theladling fiery the red fiery stock, red perhapsstock, perhaps with an with extra an dash extra of dash chilli of oil chilli or generous oil or generous dose ofdose pepper of pepper powder, powder, over the over noodles. the noodles. Then it’ll Then be toppedit’ll be topped with garnishes with garnishes such as such as beansprouts,beansprouts, julienned julienned spring onions, spring onions, boiled eggboiled and egg slices and of slices pork. of Follow pork. fellowFollow diners fellow bydiners by slurpingslurping the rāmen the noisilyrāmen whilenoisily eating, while eating,with napkin with atnapkin the ready at the to ready dab yourto dab perspiring your perspiring brow. brow. DespiteDespite the feeling the offeeling a volcano of a volcano about to about erupt to in erupt your inbelly, your don't belly, linger don't over linger your over bowl: your bowl:

VINCENT THOMAS ST. © SHUTTERSTOCK VINCENT THOMAS ST. © SHUTTERSTOCK LAYLA DARTRY / EYEEM © GETTY IMAGES rāmenLAYLA DARTRY / EYEEM © GETTY IMAGES isrāmen eat-and-go is eat-and-go food of food the fastest of the fastestorder. ● order. by Simon ● by Richmond Simon Richmond

43 63 63 DISHES

Origins SERVES 4 The origin of these thin, springy wheat noodles is generally thought to be China. However, JAPAN down the centuries rāmen has become a cornerstone of Japanese cuisine and there's a vast range of ways to serve Gekikara ramen the noodles, either in a soupy stock or dry with dipping sauce. Gekikara translates from Japanese as 'hellishly spicy'. Slurping In fact, rāmen has developed an these noodles, the broth brimming with chilli and pepper, may be international cult following, with like ingesting molten lava, but is also a curiously addictive experience. chefs vying to prepare unique recipes, including gekikara. You’ll need Method 2L (3½ pints) chicken stock 1 Add the garlic, ginger, leek, carrot, kombu 4 garlic cloves, smashed and white pepper to the stock and bring to 4cm root ginger, sliced the boil. 1 leek, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 2 Add soy, mirin, sugar, gochujang and chilli 1 piece of kombu oil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 1 tsp white pepper minutes. Remove the kombu, then cook for a 2 tbsp soy sauce further hour. Strain and discard solids. 2 tbsp mirin (cooking sake) 2 tbsp white sugar 3 Boil the noodles in plenty of water until al 120ml (4oz) gochujang paste/ dente and divide between four bowls. hot pepper paste 1–2 tbsp chilli oil to taste 4 Top with half an egg, bamboo shoots, nori, 540g (1lb) ramen noodles, sesame seeds and spring onions, then ladle cooked the spicy soup over the top to serve. 2 hard boiled eggs, halved pickled bamboo shoots, nori sheets, black sesame seeds and sliced spring onions, to Tasting notes garnish Rāmen bars specialising in this dish often make it available in gradations of spiciness, from temporarily tongue numbing to off the radioactive scale. The chef will freshly prepare the dish for you, ladling the fiery red stock, perhaps with an extra dash of chilli oil or generous dose of pepper powder, over the noodles. Then it’ll be topped with garnishes such as beansprouts, julienned spring onions, boiled egg and slices of pork. Follow fellow diners by slurping the rāmen noisily while eating, with napkin at the ready to dab your perspiring brow. Despite the feeling of a volcano about to erupt in your belly, don't linger over your bowl:

VINCENT THOMAS ST. © SHUTTERSTOCK LAYLA DARTRY / EYEEM © GETTY IMAGES rāmen is eat-and-go food of the fastest order. ● by Simon Richmond

44 63 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

How to make it in a pan with the water and Chana Masala teabags. Bring to the boil, then SERVES 4 turn off the heat and set aside for CURRY UP NOW, SAN FRANCISCO, USA 10 minutes. Remove the teabags. Ingredients In 2009, just as the branded food 2 x 400g (14oz) cans chickpeas 2. To make the spice blend, put truck revolution was gaining 1L (13/4 pints) water all the ingredients in a dry frying momentum, Akash Kapoor and his 2 teabags (preferably Red pan and toast, shaking often, partners launched Curry Up Now in Label) for 1–2 minutes, until fragrant. San Francisco. The mission was to serve authentic 50ml (2fl oz) rapeseed oil or Transfer to a mortar and pestle Indian food with traditional North Indian ghee or spice grinder and grind into ‘Our food was born of a flavours, but in accessible ways that were also 2 medium onions, finely fine powder. desire to do something a touch atypical. Such was the genesis of their chopped different yet authentic. breakthrough Tikka Masala Burrito – a truck- 1 tbs ginger garlic puree 3. Heat the oil or ghee in a frying That’s what put us on the friendly, eat-while-you-walk approach to Indian pinch of salt pan, add the onion, ginger, garlic map: Indian food made food that’s familiar but cool and has a little 150g (5oz) tomato puree puree and salt and sauté for with the intention of not bit of mystery. Since then, their Deconstructed juice of 1 lemon 8–10 minutes or until softened. Samosas, Naughty Naan, Sexy Fries and other 2 tsp coriander leaves, chopped scaring anybody.’ signature specials have complemented a menu of cooked rice, to serve 4. Stir in the spice blend and Akash Kapoor, classics, including Chana Masala, a chickpea cook for 10 more minutes. Add founder and CEO curry mainstay. Just don’t call anything fusion or For the spice blend: 1 tbs of the chickpea water to modern food, because at heart it’s true to time- 2 tsp ground cumin prevent sticking. honoured tastes, with ingredients that are, as 2 tsp ground coriander much as possible, organic, locally sourced and 1/2 tsp ground turmeric 5. Add the tomato puree and environmentally conscious. Today, Curry Up Now 1 tsp pomegranate seeds cook for 5 minutes. reaches fans through its food truck, six Bay Area 2 cloves fine-casual restaurants and two Mortar & Pestle 2 black cardamoms 6. Pour in the chickpeas and bars serving unique India-inspired cocktails. 4 green cardamoms water. Cook for 20 minutes or 1/2 stick cinnamon until thickened, then stir in the 2 small bay leaves lemon juice. 4 dried red chillies salt, to taste 7. Garnish with fresh coriander Follow them on and serve with rice. Instagram: @curryupnow Method

45 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

46 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

bicarb soda, baking powder, salt How to make it and flour. Red Velvet Cookies MAKES 20 CAPTAIN COOKIE AND THE MILK MAN, 5. Add the flour mixture to the WASHINGTON DC, USA Ingredients butter mixture and mix on low 160g (5½oz) unsalted butter, until well combined, scraping the Ever since baking his first softened sides of the bowl occasionally. chocolate chip cookie aged four, 130g (4½oz) white sugar Kirk Francis has been trying to 115g (4oz) soft light brown sugar 6. Mix in the chocolate chips. achieve the perfect recipe. His 1 tbs red food colouring Scoop the dough by rounded mission continues. In 2012, he and his wife 5 tbs milk tablespoons on to an ungreased Juliann started a food truck business, Captain 1 tsp vanilla extract baking sheet and bake for 11–12 Cookie and the Milk Man. Kirk converted their 25g (1oz) unsweetened cocoa minutes, or until the cookies are four trucks into mini-bakeries and his uncle powder slightly puffed and crackled on top. hand-painted their exteriors; quirkily, their 1 tsp bicarb soda (baking soda) first ‘cookiemobile’ was a former Washington Post 1 tsp baking powder 7. Remove and place on a wire delivery van. These days, the cookiemobiles set ½ tsp sea salt rack to cool. up shop throughout DC, Virginia, and Maryland 210g (7½oz) plain flour (and there are two bricks-and-mortar locations). 75g (3oz) white chocolate chips Every morning within the compact kitchens the duo and their staff whip up eight cookie flavours, Method including chocolate chip, double chocolate, 1. Preheat the oven to 200ºC oatmeal raisin and ginger molasses – plus weekly (400°F). experiments like the red velvet cookie. Enjoy these fresh, chewy bites with natural ice cream; 2. Using a stand mixer or hand the ice-cream cookie sandwich is their best- beater, cream the butter and seller. The company also ‘saves the world one sugars together on medium cookie at a time’ by supporting food charities in speed until light and fluffy (about Washington DC. 3–5 minutes).

3. Mix in the food colouring, milk and vanilla.

Follow them on 4. In a separate bowl, stir

47 AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 FOOD TRUCKS

3. Mix in the food colouring, milk and vanilla.

Follow them on 4. In a separate bowl, stir

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