Cairo & the Egyptian Museum

CAIRO 107 Park Al-Azhar Cairo Islamic Egyptian Museum © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Pyramids of Giza POPULATION: 20 MILLION (APPROX) (APPROX) 20 MILLION POPULATION: ( p169 ) Egyptian Egyptian ahwa ( p143 ); cross an item ); cross an item p143 ( ( p140 ) with its splendid ) with its splendid p140 ( ( p125 ) – or just get lost in ) – or just get lost in p125 ( ( p185 ) Al-Azhar Park sunset view Museum Museum ) p155 the narrow alleys ( at an pipe and the bubble of the water or coffeehouse, Egyptian his cohorts in the mazelike Islamic Cairo Pyramids of Giza list off your life

of Escape the city noise in the greenery Relax to the click of backgammon and to Tutankhamun your regards Give medieval mosques of the great Visit your head back and gape at the Tip TELEPHONE CODE: 02 02 TELEPHONE CODE:

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

So blow your nose, crack a joke and learn to look through the dirt see the city’s true to One taxi ride can span millennia, from the resplendent mosques and mausoleums built at mosques and mausoleums built millennia, from the resplendent One taxi ride can span But it’s a small price to pay, to visit the city Cairenes call Umm ad-Dunya – ‘the mother of pay, to visit the city Cairenes But it’s a small price to

colours. If you love Cairo, she will love you back. she will love Cairo, If you love colours. dusty when the spring khamsin blows in. of beige sand, and the sand is a social equalizer as well: everyone, no matter how rich, gets no matter as well: everyone, of beige sand, and the sand is a social equalizer the western edge of the city. The architectural jumble is smoothed over by an even coating by an even jumble is smoothed over architectural edge of the city. The the western years – then all the way back to the days of the pharaohs, as the Pyramids of Giza hulk on back to the days of the pharaohs, as the Pyramids years – then all the way earned the city the nickname ‘Paris on the Nile’), to the brutal concrete blocks of the Nasser blocks on the Nile’), to the brutal concrete ‘Paris earned the city the nickname the pinnacle of the Islamic empire, to the 19th-century palaces and grand avenues (which 19th-century palaces and grand avenues to the empire, the pinnacle of the Islamic weight and lifting the city’s spirit up with their uncommon graciousness and humour. spirit up with their uncommon graciousness weight and lifting the city’s of 20 million people simultaneously crushing the city’s infrastructure under their collective their collective under crushing the city’s infrastructure of 20 million people simultaneously product of its 20 million inhabitants waging a battle against the desertproduct inhabitants waging of its 20 million and winning (mostly), the world’. This city has an energy, palpable even at three in the morning, like no other. It’s the in the morning, like no other. at three palpable even energy, city has an the world’. This eyes each time you venture across a street. And your snot will run black from the smog. from the smog. And your snot will run black across a street. eyes each time you venture ghost town. You will be hounded by papyrus sellers at every turn. Your life will flash before your will flash before turn. Your life hounded by papyrus sellers at every ghost town. You will be Let’s address the drawbacks first. The crowds on a Cairo footpath makelook like Manhattan on a Cairo crowds a first. The the drawbacks address Let’s Cairo CAIRO central Cairo wasaswampy plainsubject tocentral Cairo Fatimids toalter the city’s appearance. 79), Ismaildidmore than anyonesincethe for change. Duringhis16-yearreign (1863– son of Mohammed Ali,decideditwastime the mid-19thcentury,whenIsmail, grand- remained cityfor900years, until amedieval grand funerarymonuments.Butat heartit totheeast filled with Island, whilethedesert to theportof BulaqandsouthontoRhoda the Motherof the World. Thiswasthecitythatcalled fickle sultans. ofcapital great wealth,ruledbycrueland dynasties,becamea and, undersubsequent them long inpower,buttheircitysurvived oughfares. TheFatimids were nottoremain straddle twoof mainthor- IslamicCairo’s Zuweilastill al-Futuh andBab an-Nasr, Bab Islamic study,andthethree great gates of Bab and university isstillEgypt’s maincentre of era remain today:thegreat Al-Azhar Mosque Cairo. to city victorious’,which Europeanscorrupted Al-Madinacendant; thusarose al-Qahira,‘the (Al-Qahir, ‘theVictorious’)wasintheas- whentheplanetMarsprobably onpurpose, city. aboutbuildinganew andinsteadFustat set in frommodern-dayTunisia,theyspurned 10th century,whentheFatimids marched buildings upto14storeys Yet high. inthe tell of publicgardens,street and lighting Descriptions leftby10th-centurytravellers ontheheavythe taxes imposed Niletraffic. drawn fromEgypt’s excessively rich soiland of huge nearby. Fustat’s wealthwas Fustat thecityfor IslaminAD642,established ibn al-As, thegeneral whoconquered Egypt On, which whileAmr theycalledBabylon, The Romansbuiltafortress attheportof gious centre atOn(modern-dayHeliopolis). that. There ancientreli- wasanimportant furtherbackthanbut thecity’shistorygoes were laidinAD969bytheFatimid dynasty, 20km southeastof the Giza Plateau. ofthe capital ancient Egypt wasMemphis, At thetimePyramidswereotherwise. built, ence of thePyramidsleadsmanytobelieve isnotaPharaonic thepres- city,though Cairo 108 HISTORY Before the 1860sfutureBefore site of modern finallyburst itswalls,spreadingCairo west Many imposingbuildingsfromtheFatimid Construction beganonthenewcapital, The core foundationsof thecityof Cairo AR • Hsoy CAIRO ••History Finding your way around Cairo’s sprawlisnot Finding yourwayaroundCairo’s remains tobeseen. them andtheeconomycansustain the desert others are thenewEgyptian dream. Whether 6thof and October City,NewCairo year: megastores, every springupfromthedesert full satellite cities,complete withmallsand communities, sprawlinghousingblocksand and thePyramidsonwest.Luxe gated crept Hillsontheeast beyondMuqattam urbs. Inmore recent decades,growthhas newsub- the Nilefordesperately needed over populated thesparsely westbankof 1960s and1970s,urbanplanners concreted as apartmentswere overcrowded. Inthe Building maintenance fell bythewayside of attheexpense Ismail’svision.although –lation of hasgrownspectacularly Cairo city. Islamic besidetheoldnew European-styleCairo todesignandbuildaFrance andItaly as Ismailinvited architects fromBelgium, Babylon and Arab Fustat. Buried inhere andArabBabylon Fustat. is thesite termed of Old Cairo, loosely Roman a successionof ramshackle neighbourhoods Then you’re outof andinto central Cairo of GardenCity are prime embassy territory. inhabited byboththelivingand the dead. now vastnecropolises Southern Cemeteries, university. Furthereast are theNorthern and andAl-Azhar al-Khalili Khan Mosqueand today. Atitscentre isthegreat bazaarof heartofmedieval thecity,stillbeatingstrong where takes over. Islamic Cairo This isthe Cairo. modern-day urbs such asShubra, perhaps the truesoulof are middle-andworking-classsub- teeming northernmost extent of Downtown.Beyond of marksthe thecity’smaintrainstation, Midan Talaat location Harb. MidanRamses, tions are, liesnortheastof Tahrir, centred on where most cheap op- eatingandsleeping is thecentre. Thenoisy, busyDowntownarea, Midan Tahrir asitmayatfirst seem. as difficult ORIENTATION former marsh becameonevastbuildingsite afresh.be donebystarting For10years the city of Thiscouldonly Europeanstanding. was determined toremake intoa hiscapital French-educated Ismailcametopower,he the annualfloodingof theNile. Whenthe Since therevolution of 1952thepopu- South of MidanTahrir, the tree-lined streets Downtown’s eastern edge isMidanAtaba, lonelyplanet.com CAIRO

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(Map ( p201 ) ( p165 ) ( p165 ) ( p169 ). ( p169 ). felucca felucca ( p206 ), ), p206 ( Al-Ghouri Al-Ghouri Greek Club Greek Museum of of Museum Zamalek ( p176 ) before Dahshur Fishawi’s Fishawi’s Gayer-Anderson Gayer-Anderson 2797 5370; Sharia Moham- Citadel View Citadel View Step Pyramid Pyramid Step ( p176 ) to buy a stylish stylish ) to buy a p176 ( % ( p127 ) and the ) and p127 ( Cairo Maps: The Practical The Practical Maps: Cairo 9am-6pm Sat-Thu); 9am-6pm Sat-Thu); ( p142 ) before strolling along strolling along ) before p142 ( ( p185 ). When you’ve reached reached you’ve ). When p185 ( ( p174 ). p174 ( ( p166 ). p166 ( h ( p138 ) and the p138 ( (water pipe) at (water Khan Misr Touloun 2739 7045; 16 Sharia Mohammed Thakeb; Al-Khatoun (Map pp118-19 ; pp118-19 (Map Palmyra % ( p165 ) in the Khan al-Khalili, then rest ) in the Khan al-Khalili, then rest p165 ( (E£30), a book-sized but lightweight sheesha ( p162 ). In the afternoon, make your way make your way ). In the afternoon, p162 ( 10am-6pm Sat-Thu, 1-6pm Fri) The best English- 10am-6pm Sat-Thu, Abou el-Sid ( p155 ). At sundown, take an hour’s ). At p155 ( ( p123 ) in the morning, then catch the metro catch the metro ) in the morning, then p123 ( Al-Azhar Mosque Maps Maps Bookshops Bookshops med Mahmoud; language bookshop in Egypt, with stacks of material on Downtown pp144-5 ; h American University in Cairo (AUC) Bookshop primary districts from north to south are primary districts from north to south are Doqqi and Giza, Mohandiseen, Agouza, the 10km out to the foot of stretches which Pyramids. in Cairo (AUC) The American University publishes Press Guide index. with maps, 40 street collection of INFORMATION ( p176 ) and Egyptian Museum Egyptian ( p143 ). After this, it’s on to the ). After p143 ( ( p163 ); if you’re up for more, cap it off with a beer cap it off with a beer up for more, ); if you’re p163 ( Mosque of Ibn Tulun Coptic Cairo ( p167 ). In the afternoon visit the only remaining Ancient Ancient only remaining visit the ). In the afternoon p167 ( Egyptian Pancakes Egyptian Mahmoud Mukhtar Museum Mahmoud Mukhtar Estoril Abd el-Zaher At-Tabei ad-Dumyati At-Tabei ( p170 ). Andrea ( p200 ). Bring a picnic to eat at the foot of the p200 ( Garden City at twilight Garden ( p128 ) and practiseyour haggling skills with the cheerful stall own- p128 ( Pyramids of Giza ( p141 ) and the ( p174 ) or at the wonderfully sleazy p174 ( Saqqara CAIRO •• Information Khan al-Khalili ( p196 ) and ( p133 ) before stopping at ) before p133 ( ( p138 ) in Islamic Cairo. Indulge in a bit of shopping at Indulge in a bit of shopping Cairo. ) in Islamic p138 ( Odeon Palace Hotel bar Hotel Odeon Palace ( p154 ), then head to dinner at p154 ( Nile Maxim boat Nile Maxim On day two make start an early a taxi for the day to take you to hire and Start by taking day three to the a taxi On your last day take the river bus to On your last day take the river Memphis Four Days Four Days the Two Days itinerary. For days one and two, follow Complex ride at the Two Days Two Days Start exhibits at the day one with the magnificent CAIRO IN… IN… CAIRO stopping to grab Downtown area, and wander around the the museum leave overload, Pharaonic delicious lunch at a cheap and lunch at a late Have or two. souvenir strolling through up before to historic ( p163 ) or dine like Zamalek’s glamorous a pasha at p163 ( at outdoor lunch a late or have Wonder of the World, the Wonder of the World, the the bank of the Nile to the neighbourhood of Zamalek for a late lunch at one of its many cafés lunch at one of its many cafés for a late the bank of the Nile to the neighbourhood of Zamalek to the city bid farewell at your hotel, a rest After and perhaps some shopping. and restaurants, the best belly dancers in the world shake dinner and watching stuff on their by having a late the catching a taxi to Midan Hussein to visit historic Gezira and check out the the Qasr el-Nil Bridge to Walk over back to Midan Tahrir. Art Modern Egyptian Museum ers. While there, don’t forget to have a mint tea and a a mint tea to have don’t forget While there, ers. Return Downtown to eat a simple but delicious Levantine meal at the long-running meal a simple but delicious Levantine Return Downtown to eat the medieval city. for a lavish dinner overlooking in Al-Azhar Park The west bank of the Nile is newer (lots the Nile is newer (lots The west bank of West of all these all ob- districts is the Nile, West of wealthier, trendier part of the city. The the city. The part of wealthier, trendier more concrete) and more residential than than residential and more concrete) more along the east bank, but it’s also the areas though its northern part goes by the name of Manial. northern half of Geziranorthern half of is an affluent district by the called Zamalek,historically favoured and home to many city’s European residents The southern island is Rhoda,embassies. al- by three bridges, is Gezira, bridges, home to the Cairoby three Tower and the Cairo Opera House. The structed by two sizable islands. The more cen- more islands. The by two sizable structed to Downtown these, directly connected tral of an expat enclave. an feature on many tourist agendas. Well beyond on many tourist agendas. feature Ma’adi, suburb of residential that is the green the small, walled enclave of Coptic Cairo, a of the small, walled enclave lonelyplanet.com CAIRO 110 CAIRO (15km) Alexandria Highway to To Desert Alexandria (220km) Crazy Water (25km); Giza Pyramids(9km); Saqqara Rd(6km); To MaryutiaCanal/ To Birqash Imbaba Airport Libnan Midan (35km) Market Camel CAIRO

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m le a S Northern Cemetery See Al-Azhar h & Khan la a ) Al-Khalili S de tra Map (p129) os ut INFORMATION A ( Canadian Embassy...... sr 1 D4 Al-Azhar a -N Centre Français de Culture n 9 Mosque a et de Coopération...... 2 D4 14 q Islamic ri 5 a Kenyan Embassy...... 3 A2 Cairo T Bab Al-Azhar Sudanese Consulate...... (see 1) Zuweila Park Turkish Embassy...... 4 D4

Darb SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES al-Ahmar Al-Azhar Park...... 5 F3 Church of St Simeon the Tanner...... 6 F4 Tul un Map (p137) Contemporary Image Collective...... 7 D4 Al-Helmiya Manshiyet Nasr International Language Institute...... 8 A1 See The Citadel Museum of Islamic Art...... 9 E3 Map (p135) Mosque 6 October War Panorama...... 10 H1 of Ibn Tulun EATING Abou El Sid...... (see 12) 20 Alain Le Notre Café...... (see 5) Citadel View...... (see 5) La Mezzaluna...... 11 A3 Le Tabasco...... 12 A3 Sequoia...... 13 C1

DRINKING Bull's Eye...... (see 11)

ENTERTAINMENT El-Genaina...... (see 5) Makan...... (see 4)

SHOPPING Muqattam City Abd ar-Rahman Harraz...... 14 E3 Southern Cemetery Salem...... 15 A2 Souq al-Gomaa...... 16 F6

16 TRANSPORT Abbassiyya (Sinai) Bus Terminal...... 17 G2 Aboud Bus Terminal...... 18 E1 Cairo Gateway...... 19 D2 Sayyida Aisha Microbus Terminal...... 20 E5 To Ma’adi Service Taxis to Al-Fayoum..21 B5 (8km) CAIRO the Pyramids (Map p150 ). (Map pp118–19 ) andoutsidetheSphinx-sideentranceto photographs. Branchesopposite theEgyptianMuseum ofold second-hand), vintagepostcardsandreprints good placeformaps,booksaboutCairoandEgypt(some Downtown; Sherif, 44 Sharia bestsellers, plus a lot of magazines at this two-storey bestsellers, plusalotofmagazinesatthistwo-storey shop. Harb, Downtown; fiction and airport-style andairport-style fiction novels. withmagazines,English-languagecrime Small butpacked Shagaret ad-Durr,Zamalek; Sharia of July,Zamalek; wing anda small café. large music section, books. Italsohasakids’ coffee-table titles,fromnovelstotravelguides French andGerman British Council&Library British institutions keep limited hours. much activityduringthesummer,whenmany the monthly schedules,event check passport) before theywillallowyouin.For Many centres willaskforID(preferably your Cultural Centres&Libraries are pp118–19) decent. also (Map InterContinental Marriott (Map pp144–5 ) andthe Semiramis the NileHilton(Map pp118–19 ), theCairo Tahrir (Map pp118–19 ). Thebookshopsat opposite AUC (Map pp118–19 ) andonMidan are situated onSharia Mohammed Mahmoud Downtown,goodnewsstands stands. these get justabout anything (exceptnudity)from (Map Sabry inZamalek pp144–5 ). Youcan the cornerof Sharias 26thof JulyandHassan faceeach otheron bestnewsstands Cairo’s NEWSSTANDS Zamalek Bookshop Shorouk &Landrock Lehnert Diwan Bookshop Anglo-Egyptian East.Plentyofguidebooksand Middle some fiction. the politics,sociologyandhistoryofCairo,Egypt 112 Khalifa; Khalifa; p153; (Map el-Nil; .eg) Egypt andthe East. Middle ofbookson 1.30pm &4.30-8pmMon-Sat)Goodselection MohammedFarid,4337; 165Sharia Downtown; modern art. British of useful library;itsAgouza officehasastrongcollection exhibitionsand talksandhasa Organises performances, Agouza h AR • Ifrain CAIRO ••Information h Mp pp144-5; (Map (Map (Map pp118-19 ; 8am-8pm Sun-Thu, 9am-4.30pmSat); (Map (Map pp144-5 ; % 9am-8pm Sun-Wed,9am-4.30pm Thu) 19789; 4 Sharia el-Minia, off Sharia Nazih offSharia el-Minia, 19789; 4Sharia h h Egypt Today, 9am-11.30pm) Fabulous: English, (Map (Map pp144-5 ; 10am-10pm) ArabicandEnglish (Map (Map pp118-19 ; % % % 2736 2578; 159 Sharia 26th 2736 2578;159Sharia (www.britishcouncil.org h Al-Ahram Weekly 3300 1666; 192 Sharia 3300 1666;192Sharia 2393 0643; 1 Midan Talaat2393 0643;1Midan Mp pp118-19; (Map 10am-7pm Mon-Sat)A h butdon’texpect % 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) % 2736 9197;19 2392 7606; % h Heliopolis 2391 9am- and

on language classes. titles. TheDoqqilocationfocuses 15,000 (mainlyGerman) exhibitions andfilmscreenings. Thelibraryhasmore than Egyptology andothertopics,plusvisitingmusicgroups,art on inGerman andlectures 1-7pm Sun-Wed)Seminars are onsaleatCilantrocoffee shops around town. yoga classesandchildren’s puppetshows. Tickets forshows exhibitions,theatre, filmsandeven art hosts concerts, El Sawy Culture Wheel El SawyCulture good classicalandcolloquial Arabic classes. ofEgyptiancomposers,as well as Thu) Organisesconcerts Shagaret ad-Durr,Zamalek; Cooperation Cultural forInternational Centre Egyptian etdeCoopération FrançaisdeCulture Centre Istituto Italiano di Cultura Istituto ItalianodiCultura Instituto Cervantes your passport to enter. It alsohasEnglish-languagemagazinesforbrowsing. Show scienceand otherreference books,mainlyinEnglish. of art, withacollection Thu) Thecity’sbestpubliclibrary,stocked Zamalek; MohammedMazhar, Sharia Library Cairo Great Goethe Institut .ambafrance-eg.org/cfcc) and art exhibitions, plus and art a library. (sometimes inEnglish) programme offilmsand lectures Zamalek; al-Marsafy, Sheikh 8791; www.iiccairo.esteri.it; 3Sharia % pp118-19; institute, screening filmsand organising lectures. h BoulosHanna,Doqqi; 20Sharia .elcairo.cervantes.es; July, Zamalek; % Sun-Thu); Shafikal-Dib,Ardal-Golf; 3857; 5Sharia runs French- and Arabic-language courses. TheMounirabranchalso French-language newsfromTV5. tothepublicandscreens and exhibitions,opensitslibraries putsonfilms,lectures 11am-8pmWed)Regularly Thu &Fri, al-Huquqal-Fransiyya; Madrassat numbers were unchanged. Mohandiseen andDoqqigota3.Mobile at thefrontoftheirnumbers,whileGiza, east bankandinZamalekgota2stuck slow toupdate. Neighbourhoodsonthe because businesscardsandsignsmightbe seven toeightdigits –wementionithere In mid-2007,Cairo landlinesexpanded from THE NUMBERSGAME 3748 4501; 5 Sharia Hussein Wassef); HusseinWassef); 3748 4501;5Sharia 9am-4pm Sun-Thu) Spanishlanguageandcultural 2736 8881; www.culturewheel.com; Sharia 26thof 2736 8881;www.culturewheel.com; Sharia h Mounira % library 10am-4pmSun, Tue &Thu) Abusy h Mp pp144-5; (Map 2575 9877; 5 Sharia al-Bustan; 2575 9877;5Sharia (Map pp110-11 ; (www.goethe.de/eg) 9am-9pm) Excellentlivelyspacethat Mp pp144-5; (Map Mp p148; (Map Heliopolis (El Sakia; Map Map (El Sakia; pp144-5 ; h % Mp pp144-5; (Map 10am-3pm &4-9pmSat- h (off Map p153 ; % 2736 5410; 11 Sharia 2736 5410;11Sharia % 11am-7pm Sun-Tue, h % 2794 7679; 1 Sharia 2794 7679;1Sharia lonelyplanet.com h 3337 1962;www Doqqi 9am-4pm Sat- Downtown 2736 2271;15 10am-10pm 10am-10pm (Map (Map p148 ; h % % library 2735 (www (Map (Map 2419 2419 CAIRO Al- 113 3303 3303 (E£15; Egyptian Egyptian (Map (Map % 2735 Daily Star Star Daily International International % Ma’adi a monthly listings Egypt Today Egypt (Map ; p148 (Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5 (Map Croc, (E£10); a spin-off of the qual- of (E£10); a spin-off (www.guardians.net) Great site cover- Great (www.guardians.net) (E£1) are the other English- (E£1) are Mohandiseen (www.cairolive.com) Online news Online news (www.cairolive.com) 2524 0250, emergency 2524 0077; 2524 0250, emergency 2524 0077; (www.cairotourist.com) Virtual tours (www.yallabina.com) Devoted(www.yallabina.com) Big to the % (www.egy.com) A great website by Egyptian website by (www.egy.com) A great (50pt) and the more substantial (50pt) and the more comes as an insert in the Corniche el-Nil); 6162/5; Sharia Gezira) Hadayek al-Zuhreyya, West of the Cairo Tower. pp110-11 ; better 0502; 3 Sharia Syria) The Ma’adi branch has a reputation. aggregator and magazine with views on Cairo’s cultural with views on Cairo’s cultural and magazine aggregator events, political developments Useful and general news. kids’ section. As-Salam International Hospital Mango’s nightlife: restaurant and bar reviews,Mango’s listings plus restaurant nightlife: and films. for concerts, events The flimsy daily news in English. Gazette Weekly Ahram pick rags. For a hipper perspective, language the copy of up a free Medical Services HOSPITALS Cairo’s hospitals of suffer from anti- Many attitude to equipment and a cavalier quated several Your exceptions. are hygiene, but there doc- to recommend be able embassy should Other options: and hospitals. tors Anglo-American Hospital Guardians Egypt Yallabina Media The monthly magazine also online at www.egypttoday.com) cov- and social and economic issues major ers also includes basic listings. The Egypt Herald-Tribune ity Beirut paper, it’s the most informative Internet Resources Resources Internet Cairo, Egypt hotel Islamic and modern Cairo; of Pharaonic, Coptic, not kept listings are and restaurant up-to-date, however. cairolive.com Egy.com ing the Giza, Dahshur Has pho- and Saqqara pyramid sites. tos, articles discoveries, about recent from and bulletins Dr Zahi Hawass, the Secretary General of the Supreme of Antiquities. Council social historian Samir Raafat: and journalist articles on architecture, events and people in 19th- and 20th-century Jewish sectionCairo, with an interesting on the city’s community. flyer found at many restaurants and galler- flyer found at many restaurants and other reviews ies; it includes restaurant informative articles. 24hr) 24hr) 2390 6028, h h % 2395 1985; 24hr) Opposite 2575 9304; 1st 8am-2am) Nice % 2736 4004; 25 h 2574 7881; 1st fl, 018 169 6471; 24hr) Opposite 4U % (Map pp144-5 ; h % % % h 2579 1860; 12 Sharia 2738 0516; Sharia (Map pp118-19 ; % % 9am-2pm Sun-Thu) This centre This centre 9am-2pm Sun-Thu) (Map ; pp118-19 h (coffeehouse). CAIRO •• Information (Map ; pp118-19 (Map ; pp144-5 180) 123) (Map ; pp118-19 (Map ; pp118-19 is on the 1st floor of a building in is on the 1st floor of % ahwa % ( ( (Map ; pp144-5 122) (Map pp118-19 ; ; pp118-19 (Map % (

tourist police office 10am-2am) Cool cave ambience; down the alley lead- 2738 2520; www.nvic.leidenuniv.nl; 1 Sharia 1 Mah- www.nvic.leidenuniv.nl; 2738 2520; 10am-2am) Across from Koshary el-Tahrir; bargain 10am-2am) Across from Koshary el-Tahrir;

h 12 Sharia Mahmoud Bassiouni, Downtown; per hr E£5; Mahran ing to Talaat Harb, Downtown; per hr E£5; Talaat with printing,flat-screens, faxing and scanning services; in Estoril restaurant. alley next to Sharia Ismail Mohammed, Zamalek; per hr E£5; A bit smoky, but the best rates in the area; offers other offers A bit smoky, but the best rates in the area; services too. business % moud Azmy, Zamalek; hosts art for its high- exhibitions and is well regarded quality weekly lectures, on a wide variety delivered of in English. topics and usually Flamenco Hotel. Fast connections and good air-con. connections and Flamenco Hotel. Fast Gezirat al-Wusta, Zamalek; per hr E£8; Zamalek Center Sigma Net Memories Net InterClub Hany Internet Café Five St@rs Net 4U Internet Café town, but they’re not exactly plentiful. The town, but they’re located: most conveniently Internet Access Internet Access throughout cafés scattered internet are There there are other offices across by the Pyramids, are there ) and in Khan p150 House (Map from Mena al-Khalili (Map p129 ). The emergency 126) office in the main tourist the alley just left of port of first be your Downtown. This should including theft; call for minor emergencies, Police Ambulance serviceFire thing more serious, contact your embassy thing more (see p507 ). details on lost credit cards, see p513 . For any- p513 cards, seedetails on lost credit Emergency Emergency call the an accident or injury, In the case of ). For right Hospital ( International As-Salam Netherlands-Flemish InstituteNetherlands-Flemish lonelyplanet.com fl, 6 Midan Talaat Harb, Downtown; per hr E£5; fl, 6 Midan Talaat Under the Lialy Hostel. Under the h 16 Sharia Abdel Khalek E£2; Sarwat, Downtown; per hr smoke-free. rates and open windows, so relatively 6 Midan Talaat Harb, Downtown; 6 Midan Talaat computers. Internet; dodgier CAIRO pp118-19; cash advancesongoldand platinum cards. Allofficeswillholdmailforcardholdersandgive al-Golf) p153; Sharia Sharia Abu al-Feda) % Airport www.thomascookegypt.com; % .eg; the most reliable. Theonesinhotels are al-Khalili. in Khan chine here (Map is belowElHussein p129 ) –themostconvenient main IslamicCairo hotels. Theonlyplacethey’re hardtofind is shopping mallsandinthefoyers of five-star ATMs are located onallmajor streets, in ATMS Cook Thomas Diners Club Citibank Express American from 10amto8pmSaturday to Thursday. tend tobeopen These 26th of JulyinZamalek. along Sharia AdlyinDowntownandonSharia change bureaus of which there are several rates are better atindependentex- slightly banks are happytochange yourcash,but open 24hours. Hotel branches of thebig Hilton andMena Oberoihotels are House Misrbranches locatedBanque attheNile see p512 . Forbankinghours, see p503 eign exchange bureaus andtransferring funds, . The For general informationabout money,for- Money Pharmacy Seif Pharmacy New Victoria Delmar Ali & Al-Ezaby andwilldeliver to speaking staff your hotel. pharmacies operate 24hours, have English- withoutprescription.can beobtained The In Egyptian pharmaciesalmostanymedicine PHARMACIES Sharia 26th of July and Sharia Mohammed 26thofJulyandSharia Sharia Farid. Mohandiseen p153 ; (Map 114 26th ofJuly); Mp pp144-5 ; (Map p148; ( Midan Tahrir, Midan Downtown) % 2574 3776; 17 Sharia Mahmoud Bassiouni); Mahmoud 2574 3776;17Sharia 2574 7991; 15 Sharia Qasrel-Nil); 2574 7991;15Sharia h 3302 1421) % % ( AR • Ifrain CAIRO ••Information % 9am-5pm Sat-Thu) ( Downtown % (www.citibankegypt.com) (www.citibankegypt.com) 2418 2144; 33 Sharia Nabil al-Wakkad, Ard Nabilal-Wakkad, 2418 2144;33Sharia 2795 1873; 4 Sharia AhmadPasha);2795 1873;4Sharia Mp pp144-5; (Map % 2265 4447); % (Map (Map pp144-5 ; Zamalek Mp pp118-19; (Map 2575 1052;Downtown)Atthecornerof 2578 5001; Nile Hilton); 2578 5001;NileHilton); % ( 2416 4000; 7 Sharia Baghdad,Korba); 2416 4000;7Sharia % ( % 2736 5622; 4A Sharia 2736 5622;4ASharia al-Gezira)

( emergency hotline0101401367; % (Map (Map pp144-5 ; (Amex; www.americanexpress.com 19199) Downtown 2365 3880); % Downtown ( % % h 19600) % 3344 0008; 10 Sharia 3344 0008;10Sharia 2735 1628;Zamalek) 8am-4.30pm Sat-Thu) (Map (Map pp118-19 ; 2578 3355; Nile Hilton, 2578 3355;NileHilton, Garden City % Mp pp118-19; (Map Mohandiseen Downtown Heliopolis 2735 9223;3 Zamalek (Map (Map Heliopolis (off Map (offMap (Map (Map

Sharia Ramses branchisopposite Ramses Sharia Tawfiqiyya.Sharia totheWindsorHotel. The Alfyisnext branch onSharia h registered mail(upstairs).Take your passport. (window1)and letters(window10),packages sections: isusuallyheldforthree weeks. It’sdividedintothreeMail with theentranceoncrossstreet oneblockdown. ofthemainpostoffice, Thu) Onthesidestreet totheright h I Sharia Adly; Sharia h Downtown pp118-19 Adly; ; fax23933903;8Sharia Faxes phones Card Telephone &Fax Zamalek postoffice Post trafficcentre restante Poste h postoffice Main restante office.Mostpostofficesalsohavean EMS counter. 5874; fax23904250; Service Mail Express is meantfor what business. signs inEnglish explainingwhich window areoffices notallhave numerous,though Marked withgreen-and-yellow signs,post Post Ramses Station tourist office Station tourist Ramses office Pyramids tourist office tourist Main office tourist Airport International Cairo Tourist Information Telephone centrales Oberoi. Pyramids Rd; h office. 0767; (see above ) andfromacoupleofinternetcafés (see p113 ). send andreceive themfromtheEMSmainofficeinAtaba Alfy.Youcanalso Tahrir, AdlyandSharia Sharia on Midan ithard streets, forthatmatter)canmake to hear. ofplacingthemonstreet corners(or although thepractice The processisbureaucratic, butnot utterly maddening. you forasmallcharge,orcansupplyyourowntape. someonewillthenwraptheparcelfor to beinspected; unsealed, Leave yourpackage yourpassport. abroad. Bring h 2578 0979; 13 Midan Tahrir; 2578 0979;13Midan ( % 24hr); 24hr) 24hr); 8am-10pm Sat-Thu) 8am-3pm Sat-Thu) 8.30am-3pm Sat-Thu) Comehere tosendpackages h 2265 3642; These canbesentto/fromthetelephonecentrales (Map (Map pp118-19 Alfy; ; fax25897635;Sharia 9am-7pm) Next totheAbelaSleeping 9am-7pm) Next Train Zamalek Downtown h h Menatel cardphonesare alloverthecity, Menatel 8.30am-7pm) 8.30am-5pm) Opposite Mena 8.30am-5pm) Opposite Mena House h Mp pp118-19; (Map (Map (Map pp144-5 26thofJuly)The ; Sharia Mp p181 Mdn Ataba; Midan pp118-19; (Map (Map (Map pp118-19 Ramses; ; Sharia h (Map p122 ; Midan Ramses; Ramses; Midan p122; (Map 24hr); Mp pp118-19; (Map Mp p145; hra Brazil; Sharia pp144-5; (Map Downtown ES Mp pp118-19; Map (EMS; 24hr) Oppositetheposte Mp p150; (Map h Terminal II 24hr); Mp p181 fax pp118-19; (Map h Mp p180; (Map lonelyplanet.com ( 8am-2.30pm Sat- % Downtown % % h 2391 3454;5 3383 8823; 2265 2269; 24hr); % % Terminal (Map (Map 2390 2579 CAIRO 115 a good not book a tour through a tout you meet on Shopping scams are nearly as prevalent, nearly as prevalent, scams are Shopping The worst scams afflictingThe worst as- Cairo are waiting, they may be interested in going to waiting, they may be interested Bazaar’, hap- which the nearby ‘Government its annual sale on that day. pens to be having a saleNeedless every to say, day, it’s there’s a sale at all, the bazaar isn’t of not much and he’ll collect a commis- government-run you purchase… sion on anything ever shop. souvenir or in a the street but less nefarious. For the most part, they you into to lure conversation-starters are these routines would be Most of stores. if not for the special con- dully obvious, con talented the more viction with which them. Around the Egyptian men deliver Museum, chap for instance, a charming and asks if they are foreigners approaches looking for the museum entrance or the bus to the Pyramids. If the answer is yes, he asserts that it’s prayer time/lunchtime/ time and that the mu- any-inventive-reason seum closed is temporarily and the bus isn’t that while they’re running. Then he suggests sociated with tours. Rather with tours. sociated ar- than making always almost in Cairo,rangements you are in the place you’ll off booking tours better ) left be taking (see them. Reputable agencies operators. by dodgy nearly outnumbered are we you’ll receive, pressure the steady Despite can’t emphasise enough that it’s through Cairo – you will inevitablylike hotels on the commission their to cover pay more agencies travel transaction.wary of Also be space to rent Many in the Downtown area. well over unscrupulous types who will charge you If they make. the odds for arrangements will say that to complain, the agency return unas- agent through a freelance you booked with the company. And finally: never, sociated locked in a suitcase. Pickpockets are rare, but but rare, are a suitcase. in Pickpockets locked spots such in crowded operate do sometimes as Khan al-Khalili, market, the Birqash camel buses.the metro and If anything does sto- get ). p113 ( police len go straight to the tourist Scams & Hassles that there’s so numerous Scams in Cairo are roughly are them all. There no way to list ), overcharg- p158 scams (seefour types: hotel shopping in Egypt, to elsewhere ing on tours involving tickets cons and funny business to monuments. cruisesidea to book flights, the and felucca Mogamma 8am-1.30pm h 2393 0259; 7 Sharia 2359 0200; www.eptours % % 2736 2042; www.travco 9am-5pm) Opposite Ma’adi9am-5pm) Opposite ( % h CAIRO •• Dangers & Annoyances (Map pp118-19 ; , a 14-storey Egypto-Stalinist monolith Egypto-Stalinist , a 14-storey (Map pp144-5 ;

metro station, this is one of the best and most reputable best and most reputable metro station, this is one of the long way from Downtown. agencies in town, though it’s a Fortunately it will book tickets, tours and hotel rooms over the phone and courier documents to you, if necessary, the Efficient staff speak excellent English. fee. for a reasonable five-star four- and It’s good for cheap air fares, hotel deals the Mediterranean.and tours within Egypt and around cards. credit Small surcharge for .com; 4 Rd 79, Ma’adi; about keeping money and valuables on you or on you money and valuables about keeping hotel rooms and even from safes, so think rooms and even from safes, hotel Theft is not a big problem, but it pays to be Theft is not a big problem, from read- letters receive We regularly safe. stolen from locked had items who have ers Theft Theft

You can walk almost wherever you like in you like wherever You can walk almost or night, day Cairo, as long as at any time of and a little street- properly dressed you are wise. That said, still be single women should at night. when walking alone careful DANGERS & ANNOYANCES DANGERS & ANNOYANCES 1st floor, go to window 12 for a form, fill it out and then buy stamps from window 43 before to window 12 and submitting your returning form with the stamps, one photograph, and of the photo and visa pages photocopies of your passport (photos and photocopies can on the ground floor). The visabe organised processed overnight. will be meantime, foreigners should go to the 1st should go to the 1st meantime, foreigners floor and confirm the following details at the proceeding. On the information desk before Sat-Wed) to be closing by 2009. In the that is rumoured All visa business is carried out at the ; Midan Downtown; Tahrir, pp118-19 (Map Visa Extensions Visa Extensions Travco MisrTravel Egypt Tours Panorama Other recommendations: travel agencies, but don’t expect amaz- but don’t expect agencies, travel out for dodgy watch Instead, ing deals. Amex and Thomas ). p506 (seeoperators service. reliable ) offer opposite Cook (see Travel Agencies Agencies Travel teem with Midan Tahrir around The streets lonelyplanet.com eg.com; 13 Shariaeg.com; Mahmoud Azmy,highly Zamalek) The travel group. Zamalek branch of an Egypt-wide regarded Talaat Harb, Downtown) The official Egyptian government Harb, Talaat luxury in most of the travel agency, which also has offices hotels. CAIRO wandering inthisarea ifitcomesat the (even them. Definitely allowafew hours of aimless shorterfull dayorseveral visitstoappreciate a ments are andyou’llneed inIslamicCairo, andmostof monu- al-Khalili the medieval visit. Khan but couldeasilymeritasecond Egyptian requires Museum atleasthalfaday, overwhelmed. The awe-inspiringbutcluttered cram toomuch intooneday,oryou’llsoonbe fore moving ontothenext–butdon’t tryto todothingsinoneareait makes be- sense are sights spreadCairo’s allover the city,so SIGHTS on ISICcards see p507 . artists inDowntown.Formore information (ISIC) areStudent IdentityCards sold byscam minaret). a able, plusanotherE£2orE£3ifyouclimb you wantto(E£5permonumentisreason- expected, but befirmanddon’tpaymore than for baksheesh business on the up-and-up. alarger send might signalthattouristsprefer it’s uptoyouwhetherobject, butdoingso it’s reused. As whatyoupay, affect itdoesn’t is nottornoutof thebookinfrontof you, the visitorit’s‘normal’tohanditover). Ifit (cadged byanotherguardinside,assuring will attempt toresell aprevious visitor’sticket ticketedofficially monuments,someguards politely refuse paymentifthere isnone. In ask ifthere isaticket (‘fee taz- admission price–ifyou’re notsure it’slegit, of worship. Butsomecaretakers willclaiman mosques are free toenter, astheyare places it paystoknowthat,withtwoexceptions,all not-saffron spice trade. conandthesafflower- instead-of-papyrus five thathemeant willsay pay, thestallholder for five (whenyougoto pounds’hardsell save youalot of hassle. thrown intokeep amicable,will everything and knowwhere you’re going,withajoke sistent, buttelling them youjustwanttowalk they’ll earnacommission. Theycanbeper- touts whowanttodirect youintoshopswhere offering helporchatting. are These usually walkingnexttoyou, localsmaystart Cairo, 116 Finally, beaware thatfake International Most commonisastream of peopleasking When visitingmonumentsinIslamicCairo, Other shoppingscamsincludetheold‘two When you’re inDowntownorIslamic British AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights pounds),thedried-banana-leaf-

(alms, tip);thisislegitimate and kar -a?’) and clockwise, theornate whiteclockwise, palaceisthe Midan Tahrir (LiberationSq)isthefulcrumof major arteries converging,With half-a-dozen a few hours. be prepared overload sensory fortotal after a wonderfulpartof towntoexplore – just (or isthatanair-conditioner leaking?).It’s apartment buildingsthatdripfadedglamour and upattheelegantEmpire-style and office andfluorescent-litaway fromthetraffic shops just ablockaway).Occasionallytrytolook as alandmark;trustus–there’s anotherone store/lingerie shop/prosthetic-limbs dealer of that shoe windowdisplays(don’tuse budget hotels, eateries andadazzlingstream is better knownforitspracticalofferings: Midan Tahrir, which localscallWustal-Balad, and the partof MidanRamses townbetween theEgyptian isfoundhere,Though Museum Central Cairo out there in the evenings. going toandfromyourhotel, orbyhanging likely soakupDowntown’satmosphere justby especially easybyMetro access–andyou’ll canbetouredCairo inamorning–made Dahshur require awholeextraday. Coptic Pyramids andtombsof Giza,Saqqaraand oflanes give thecity.The thetruestsense astheback ofexpense ‘proper’sightseeing), strous rest of thesouthsideisoccupied bythemon- anybody who’s hasafuneral.The Mosque Affairs ofForeign Ministry around the Middle East. occasional gatheringplaceof leaders from the painted aluridshade of pink,whilesouthis classical bulkof theEgyptian Museum British Armybarracks.Duenorthistheneo- first replacing modernhotel inCairo, aformer the Nile. Whenitwasbuiltin1959the MidanTahrir between slab thatstands and is theNileHilton( p160 ), theblue-and-white around and orient yourself. making itanexcellentspottohave alook isn’t hemmedinbybuildingsandoverpasses, the square isoneof thefew central spacesthat andpedestrianjams.But traffic some serious andasaresultmodern-day Cairo, thesite of MIDAN TAHRIR &AROUND Continuing aroundMidanTahrir anti- One of themostdistinctive locationaids Arab LeagueBuilding Mogamma (Map pp118–19 ) istheplacewhere (Map pp118–19 ), home to . Adjacent Mp p181 , the pp118–19), (Map lonelyplanet.com Omar Makram Omar Makram

( p185), CAIRO , 117 has been Cinema Metro Italian Insurance Gone with the Wind the Gone with (Map (Map pp118–19 ) is its ornate Babylonian its ornate venue for ritzy society for ritzy society venue the Cairo Exchange Stock Tomb Raider, (Map pp118–19 ), on the corner of of ), on the corner pp118–19 (Map Over on Sharia Talaat Harb, Harb, Talaat Over on Sharia Just south of the square on Sharia Talaat Talaat on Sharia the square Just south of A block north of Adly is Sharia 26th of 26th of Adly is Sharia A block north of North of the square, shops along Sharia shops along Sharia the square, North of July, named for the date Egypt’s last king, last king, Egypt’s July, named for the date are far as Cairenes As abdicated. Farouk, attraction is major ed, the street’s concern out morning ), packed p164 ( Bakery El-Abd (Map pp118–19 ) is a 1930s movie palace: palace: ) is a 1930s movie pp118–19 (Map opened, with when it first One and a diner. a Ford showroom it boasted Adly, the cinema, along Sharia block east of Shar Hashamaim Synagogue to Cairo’s testaments remaining the few one of community. Resembling once-thriving Jewish a set from 2007; when it’s in was being restored exterior done, the place may once again be open on holy day. Further east Saturday, the Jewish ) – p168 on Adly is the faded Groppi Garden ( Italian Cairoactually the first outpost of the of Giacomo Groppi, and site chocolatier During WWII it outdoor cinema. city’s first and Egyptians was known as a place where easily – particularly Allied Europeans mixed local ladies. troops and the Harb, Café Riche ( p163 ) was once a hang-out p163 ( Café Riche Harb, Nasser and intellectuals. writers for Egyptian while plan- here met with his cronies allegedly 1952 Revolution. ning the foot- of Qasr el-Nil sell a drag queen’s dream itself boasts some particularly The street wear. notably the fine architecture, building and the Sherifeen, Qasr el-Nil and Sharia ), a short block p160 Cosmopolitan ( Hotel and around the hotel off Qasr el-Nil. The area the neighbouring pedestrianised, both the can savour so you and some turn-of-the-century architecture relative quiet. into the ground floors of glorious (if dust- glorious (if of floors ground into the every archi- represent buildings that caked) the 19th and early 20th fantasy of tectural Talaat Sharia two main streets, centuries. The at the Qasr el-Nil, intersect and Sharia Harb cars where Harb, Midan Talaat traffic circle of tarboosh-sporting a statuewhiz around Mr of the National Bank. On the founder of Harb, ), in its heyday one p168 ( is Groppi’s square patisseries the most celebrated side of this of the Mediterranean, dances. Gold mosa-functions and concert alas, the only are, ics around the doorway remaining glitter. (AUC; (AUC; Abdeen Souq Bab 9am-2.45pm Sat- 2391 0042; Midan h % CAIRO •• Sights American University in Cairo (Qasr Abdeen; Map pp118-19 ; pp118-19 (Qasr Abdeen; Map to one side. Continuing east brings you to one side. was a centrepiece of Khedive Ismail’s plan Khedive of was a centrepiece The buildings then break for Sharia Tahrir, Tahrir, for Sharia The buildings then break and thousands of small businesses are wedged wedged small businessesand thousands are of DOWNTOWN Cairo, glitzy shops In the commercial heart of Heliopolis, but uses Abdeen for official oc- but uses Abdeen Heliopolis, casions. One section, though not the ritzy is open to the public (enter royal chambers, Raziq); its halls are Mustafa Abdel on Sharia ranging weaponry, filled with a vast array of to howitzers. daggers from ceremonial in 1952, then became the presidential pal- in 1952, then became the presidential his digs in Mubarak prefers President ace. weren’t completed until 1874. It was the royal completed weren’t was abolished until the monarchy residence for the 1869 opening of the Suez Canal, to for the 1869 opening of visiting dignitaries, but its 500 rooms impress Palace Palace recent by Paris’ for a modern Cairo, inspired even called in master- the khedive makeover; as planner Baron Haussmann mind French the palace finished wanted a consultant. He Thu) Begun in 1863 and employing Europe’s and designers, architects most lavish Abdeen Palace Abdeen Palace is Abdeen Palace, former residence of the rul- of former residence Palace, is Abdeen Egypt. of ers square skirted by speeding skirted traffic. The great square building to the east, dominating the square, al-Luq a scragglyto Midan al-Gomhuriyya, grass which leads 300m east to a busy square (Midan leads 300m east to a busy square which with the indoor veg-and-meat Falaki) Mohammed Mahmoud, opposite the enter- opposite Mahmoud, Mohammed McDonald’s. sited prisingly bookshop (see p109 ). You must hand over hand over ). You must p109 bookshop (see on Sharia gate at the your passport to enter pus has an attractive courtyard and a good courtyard and a good pus has an attractive but that won’t stop average Egyptians from Egyptians but that won’t stop average debauchery imagining the Western-inspired that goes This cam- on behind the tall fences. wealthy. As of autumn 2008, most students autumn of wealthy. As suburbs, the eastern will be at a new campus in Map pp118–19 ), the college of choice for the choice of ), the college pp118–19 Map stratospherically Egypt’s of sons and daughters Ainy, represents the current energy of private private of energy current the Ainy, represents enterprise: the p115 ). If the Soviet-funded Mogamma sym- Mogamma ). If the Soviet-funded p115 then the quasi-socialist past, bolises Egypt’s Qasr al- around, across four-lane next building 18,000 semisomnolent18,000 servants civil this – visayou come for (see extensions is where lonelyplanet.com al-Gomhuriyya; adult/student E£10/5; CAIRO 118 (1.6km) To Zamalek CENTRAL CAIRO Giza (4km) Doqqi (1.6km); To Gezira(500m);

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Zaky T Mo 80 48 Talaat Harb Talaat lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Sharia Sarayal-Ezbekiyya andSharia Alfy countless opportunitiesforsidewalk bars, dubiousbelly-dancingjoints, joints, seedy are Downtown’snightlife centre, withkebab branch onSharia Talaat Harb). anddeliciouspastries (there’ssweets alsoa withlocals jostlingforcakes,to midnight 120 (water pipe)–smoking anda24-hour eating ors oie...... F2 Tourist PoliceOffice...... (see15) Tourist Police...... Thomas Cook...... Telephone Centrale...... Telephone Centrale...... Telephone Centrale...... Shorouk...... Poste Restante...... Newsstand...... Newsstand...... (see 56) Newsstand...... (see 83) New ZealandConsulate...... Mogamma...... Misr Travel...... Memories Net...... Main TouristOffice...... Main PostOffice...... Lehnert &Landrock...... Lehnert &Landrock...... InterClub...... Hany InternetCafé...... Goethe Institut...... Five St@rsNet...... (see55) Express MailService...... Diners Club...... (see56) Delmer Pharmacy...... AUC Library...... Anglo-Egyptian Bookshop...... Bookshop...... American UniversityinCairo...... American Express...... American Express...... 4U InternetCafé...... (see55) Postal Museum...... Omar MakramMosque...... Ministry ofForeignAffairs...... ContemporaryArt...... Karim FrancisArtGallery...... Italian InsuranceBuilding...... Ezbekiyya Gardens...... Egyptian Museum...... Cairo Atelier...... Arabic LanguageInstitute...... (see3) Arab LeagueBuilding...... Entrance...... Abdeen Palace...... Exchange...... Western Union...... US Embassy...... Mashrabia Galleryof Abdeen PalaceMuseum Western UnionMoney D1 Telephone Centrale...... American UniversityinCairo SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Another blocknorth,pedestrianised AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 G3 B5 B5 C4 E4 E3 G2 B3 C3 B5 G6 G6 C3 D4 B6 C4 C4 F1 F2 D4 G3 C5 C5 B6 C5 C3 F2 G3 E2 B4 C4 E2 C4 G3 F2 D5 F2 C5 C5 B4 C4 Felfela Restaurant...... Fatatri at-Tahrir...... Estoril...... Emara Hatial-Gish...... El-Abd Bakery...... El-Abd Bakery...... Cairo...... Café Riche...... Bird Cage...... (see84) At-Tabei ad-Dumyati...... (see115) Akher Sa'a...... Akher Sa'a...... Abu Tarek...... Abu al-Hassanal-Haty...... Windsor Hotel...... Tulip Hotel...... Talisman Hotel...... Richmond Hotel...... Pension Roma...... Nile Hilton...... New MinervaHotel...... (see59) Lialy Hostel...... Hotel Select...... Hotel Osiris...... Hotel Luna...... Grand Hotel...... Garden CityHouse...... Cosmopolitan Hotel...... Carlton Hotel...... Townhouse Gallery...... Souq Babal-Luq...... Synagogue...... Shar Hashamaim Ramses HiltonMall...... Cafeteria Horreyya...... Abu AlyCafé...... Sayed Hanafy...... Sabaya...... Pottery Café...... Nile HiltonDeli...... (see86) Le Bistro...... Koshary Goha...... Koshary ElTahrir...... Koshary ElTahrir...... Groppi's...... Greek Club...... (see78) Gomhouriya...... Gad...... Felfela Takeaway...... Centro RecreativoItalianoII E1 Abu Samra...... DRINKING EATING SLEEPING sheesha

Ezbekiyya Gardens Gardens Ezbekiyya Shepheard’s Hotel wasoncelocated opposite – who pay(E£2).Thefamous only tothose havelook nicerthanthey ever –butare open inthe coffeehouses surrounding alleyways. and-vegetable market, openlate, withgood Souq Sa’a place inAkher East alongShariaEast 26thof Julyleadsto (Map pp118–19 ) isablocks-longfruit- 45 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 44 D4 C5 C4 D5 D3 E2 C1 D4 F1 D2 C3 F2 F1 D4 E2 E2 F2 A4 D3 E2 E6 D3 E2 B5 D4 E1 D3 D5 F2 B2 D5 B4 E1 A5 C5 D4 F1 E3 C5 C4 D4 E2 C4 Airport Bus...... Air France...... Talaat HarbComplex...... Sednaoui DepartmentStore.... Sawt al-Qahira...... Samir ElSakka...... Oum ElDounia...... Osman Ahmed...... Nomad...... (see 56) Mobaco...... Mobaco...... (see 2) L'Orientaliste...... L'Orientale...... Galerie Hathout...... Ezbekiyya BookMarket...... Scheherazade...... Palmyra...... Latex...... Haroun al-Rashid...... (see84) Cinema Metro...... Cairo PuppetTheatre...... After Eight...... Zahret al-Bustan...... Windsor Bar...... (see61) Odeon PalaceHotel...... Mahran...... Le Grillon...... Kawkab ash-Sharq...... Groppi Garden...... Cilantro...... Cap d'Or...... Cairo...... Cafeteria Stella...... Cafeteria PortTawfiq...... Yellow Taxis...... SyrianAir...... Royal Jordanian...... Qanater Ferries(Private)...... Pyramids Bus...... Terminal...... Maspero RiverBus Local BusesandMinibuses...... Local Buses&Minibuses...... KLM...... Hertz...... Flag DownPyramidsBus...... EgyptAir...... EgyptAir...... EgyptAir...... Avis...... (see 56) ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT SHOPPING aae ere Gvrmn).A2 Qanater Ferries(Government).. Mp pp118–19), (Map

12) Nearby ( p162). lonelyplanet.com Tawfiqiyya

132 131 130 129 128 127 125 124 123 122 121 120 119 118 117 116 115 114 113 112 111 110 109 108 107 106 105 104 103 102 101 100 126 which 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 99 A2 E2 F2 C5 E3 E1 D4 E1 B5 D3 C4 A2 B3 H2 B3 C4 A2 B5 G2 B4 C4 B3 D4 D3 H1 G2 F3 C5 F2 A6 C4 B4 F3 H1 E1 E2 A4 E2 H2 C4 D4 D3 C4 C4 CAIRO

. 121 (Map p122 ; (Mathaf al-Manial; Al-Fath Mosque Al-Fath Ramses Station with a beautiful 9am-4pm, during Ramadan 9am-3pm) 9am-2pm Tue-Sun) Manial Palace Museum Manial Museum Palace h 2368 7495; Sharia al-Saray, Manial; adult/ h % Egyptian National Railways Museum Egyptian National Railways Museum On the south side of the square is Cairo’s the square On the south side of Or you can walk directly (if a bit less sceni- Or you can walk directly The eponymous Ramses,The eponymous a multistorey 2576 3793; Midan Ramses;E£10, Fri admission & public arterial roads to swamp the square with an the square to swamp roads arterial sites, the palace and its overgrown grounds the palace and its overgrown sites, at last pass and will likely being restored were sometime in 2008 with a less ram- reopen price). The (and a highershackle feel ticket Prince Mohammed King Farouk, uncle of Ali built the palace in the early 20th century. along the lines of an English garden suburb. along the lines of Its curving, designed were streets tree-lined to the for tranquillity, while its proximity to British embassy was no doubt intended elegant the enclave’s of security. Many convey develop- to quick-buck fallen prey villas have and lush but enough grand architecture ers, survivetrees a wander through the to make faded worthwhile – at sunset, the air of streets ). p155 (see romance is palpable el-Nil. cally) south along the noisy Corniche to walk from Tahrir only 20 minutes It takes Crossing this, you Bridge. to the small Manial at the arrive Map p148 ; student E£10/5; Cairo’s most eccentric tourist Once one of tive marriage of Islamic style and industrial- Islamic style of marriage tive end it houses engineering.its eastern At age the old collection of but somewhat dilapidated one built for Empress including locomotives, the the opening of of Eugénie on the occasion Suez Canal. orientation aid, pre-eminent in the early 1990s, the ). Completed p122 (Map from just about is visible mosque’s minaret Islamic Cairo. in central and anywhere GARDEN CITY & RHODA City was developedGarden in the early 1900s unchoreographed slew of minibuses,buses, slew of unchoreographed from swarming Commuters taxis cars. and the melee. the train station add to stood sen- granite, red colossus of Pharaonic to traffictinel amid the new visitors to greet to 2006, when he was removed the city until – a further pollution damage him from protect and machinery major process that required will stand at the entrance of He road closures. Museum in Giza, slated the Grand Egyptian in 2010. to open (perhaps) ) is an attrac- p122 Ramses; (Mahattat Map % holidays E£20; 8am- (Map (Map (Map h , are the stalls , are Postal Museum main post office Puppet Theatre CAIRO •• Sights (Map pp118–19 ), one of Cairo’s of ), one pp118–19 (Map 2391 0011; 2nd fl, Midan Ataba; E£2; % , a beautifully maintained collection of , a beautifully maintained collection of Sednaoui On the north side of the square, behind the the square, On the north side of The northern gateway into central Cairo, into The northern gateway prime early-20th-century department stores. prime early-20th-century department stores. of the Ezbekiyya Book Market ( p175 ). North p175 ( the Ezbekiyya Book Market of beyond that is Midan Khazindar, dominated by cess collides with overpasses and numerous collides with overpasses cess Midan Ramses (Map p122 ) is a byword for p122 Midan Ramses (Map bedlam. The city’s main north–south ac- MIDAN RAMSES & AROUND & AROUND MIDAN RAMSES charming street with arcades over the pave- with arcades over street charming sepia-toned ments sheltering coffeehouses onto and eating places. It eventually emerges Midan Ramses. ladles of irony), an area of brothels, peepshows of irony), an area ladles of These but days it’s a shabby and cabarets. ing the diseased Cairo’s dis- red-light heart of trict, known as ‘the Berka’ with (‘the blessing’, ideas about public health to Mohammed Ali’s ideas about public health to Mohammed from becom- That didn’t stop the street Egypt. French physician who introduced Western physician who introduced Western French sports its gorgeous three-storey atrium inter- three-storey sports its gorgeous from Khazindar Running north is Sharia ior. Clot Bey Khulud) a after named (aka Sharia stocked with a weird, almost tragic assort- stocked place still goods. But the third-rate ment of Nationalised in 1961, its display cases are now Nationalised display cases in 1961, its are modernist white modernist white stamps, uniforms and even tiny scale models throughout Egypt. offices post great of pp118-19 ; 3pm) tickets to the neighbouring to the neighbouring tickets in centuries past. Off the southwest side, past the domed the flyover, though the goods now are vinyl shoes and though the goods now are acetate ball gowns, not fine silks and gold as Ottomans. A mass of buses and hawkers, the buses and hawkers, Ottomans. A mass of seems one traffic-clogged bazaar – like area MIDAN ATABA European’ Cairo ‘modern runs up Here, against the old medieval Saladin Cairo of and the Mamluks (Salah ad-Din), the east, is Midan Ataba. Midan east, is towering car park. Beyondtowering car car park, to the the was destroyed by Black Saturday rioters in rioters by Black Saturday was destroyed Next to the gardens Midan ). p41 1952 (see old opera house, the of the site Opera marks as a in 1971 – and rebuilt burnt down which it was the preferred accommodation of the of accommodation the preferred it was colonial classesBritish it until for a century, courtyard. A window ) has a pretty pp118–19 you buy on your rightimmediately is where lonelyplanet.com CAIRO an easywalk onto Old Cairo. andaNilometer.Museum Fromthere, it’s to MonastirliPalace, theUmmKolthum eries, takes youtoitssouthern tip,home ern sideof the island,pastlush plantnurs- Tahrir should cost E£4. fromMidan ataxi to walkthemuseum, by theprinceonhistravels. Ifyoudon’twant are planted withrare tropicalplantscollected scripts, clothingandotheritems. 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, founded in 1908, houses Coptic (Map p124 ) of Babylon’s western gate. gate. Babylon’s western ) of p124 (Map museum 9am-4pm) Babylon has always been a stronghold of Coptic Museum Coptic Museum This Sharia Mar E£40/20; Girgis; adult/student museum.gov.eg; h churches and the synagogue; the main gate and the synagogue; the main gate churches is for the Coptic Museum; and in the centre another doorway further south leads to the Hanging Church. Roman Towers The main entrance to the Coptic compound the two round of lies between the remains towers these were Built in AD 98 by Emperor Trajan, at the time, fortifications: riverfront part of right lapped up against the Nile would have around the southern tower them. Excavations several the ancient quay, part of revealed have Orthodox level. The Greek below street metres Monastery northern tower. the of corruption of ‘Per-hapi-en-on’ (Estate of of (Estate ‘Per-hapi-en-on’ corruption of name for Pharaonic the Nile God at On), a ancient Heliopolis. more were there Christianity. At one time within less than 1 clustered than 20 churches sq km, though just a handful survive today. narrow cobbled alleyways by linked They are running between high stone walls: the place Old City. Jerusalem’s of similar to parts feels coincidence, becauseThat might not be mere exiled from their holy city were when Jews the in Egypt; in AD 70, some found refuge in Coptic country’s oldest synagogue is here entrances to the Coptic three are There Cairo. staircasecompound: a sunken beside the foot- most access to gives the metro over bridge From there it’s a 10-minute walk east to the walk east it’s a 10-minute there From service The churches. of main cluster runs at E£1. costs 9pm and 8am, 2pm and COPTIC CAIRO of ) is the heartland p124 Coptic Cairo (Map a Christian community, indigenous Egypt’s and peace that reveals tranquillity of haven found have history. Archaeologists of layers a small Nileside settlement on this traces of from as early as the 6th century BC.site In Romans establishedthe 2nd century AD the called Babylon-in-Egypt. here, a fortress a Roman The name Babylon is most likely art from Greco-Roman times to the Islamic art from Greco-Roman Egypt. era in a collection drawn from all over (autobees (autobees was de- (Map ; p124 Sharia 10am-5pm) h Nilometer CAIRO •• Sights from the Maspero dock (Map pp118–19 ) pp118–19 dock (Map from the Maspero

The easiest way of getting here is by metro: here getting The easiest way of In this traditional part of Cairo appropriate In this traditional part of to its last stop at Misr al-Qadima in Old Cairo. to its last stop at Misr al-Qadima in Old Cairo. take the orange-and-green river bus bus river the orange-and-green take nahri) beside the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As, and be Amr ibn al-As, beside the Mosque of a seat). of A slow but pleasant option is to sure because you can board the bus at the terminal, trains run every few minutes, and Mar Girgis Girgis and Mar minutes, trains run every few station is right the Coptic Cairo outside com- than a crowded bus better pound. It’s much isn’t as bad (though the trip back to Tahrir quiet wander, avoid Sunday and Friday as Sunday and Friday as quiet wander, avoid admission, do not charge well. The churches boxes. donation but most have est time to visit is on a Sunday, when Cairene est time to visit is on a Sunday, when Cairene Copts come for services; but if you want a shorts or showing their shoulders will not be their shoulders shorts or showing or mosques. The liveli- allowed into churches dress is essential. Visitors of either sex wearing is essential. of Visitors dress From there, you can also visit the Mosque of you can also visit the Mosque of From there, ibn al-As. Amr the quarter known to foreigners as Coptic as Coptic known to foreigners the quarter head straight to the latter. Most visitors Cairo. Broadly speaking, Old Cairo (Misr al-Qadima, ) incorpo- p124 with a glottal-stop‘Q’; Map to Garden City down south of the area rates Old Cairo Old Cairo the guard will cheerfully let you descend for let you descend for the guard will cheerfully little baksheesh. a sits below the level of the Nile at the bot- the Nile at sits below the level of which steps, precipitous flight a of tom of earlier one wrecked by Napoleon’s troops. by Napoleon’s troops. earlier one wrecked The measuring device, column, a graduated could be disastrous, and lower levels pres- The Turkish-style pencil-point hunger. aged an of reconstruction dome is a Farouk-era era; any higher, though, and the flooding river, and thus predict the fortunes of the the the fortunes of and thus predict river, annual harvest. rose If the water to 16 cubits the a forearm) the length of (a cubit is about harvest to be good, inspiring one was likely the medieval celebrations of the greatest of signed to measure the rise and fall of the the the rise and fall of signed to measure Nilometer Nilometer in AD 861, the Built formed disguised as a Bedouin boy, to her that broughtmagnetic performances Cairo to a standstill, millions to her funeral, when the streets. flooded mourners of music, and a short film shows key moments moments key shows film and a short music, per- when she the beginning from her life, of lonelyplanet.com al-Malek as-Salih, Rhoda; E£10; CAIRO of relics saints’ andaniconof Mary, this9th- rishioners whocometoprayover acollection and videos of theCoptic pope, Shenouda III. inner courtyard,vendors liturgies taped sell façade toppedby twin belltowers. Inasmall Steep stairsBabylon. leadtoa19th-century it isbuiltontopof theWater Gate of Roman called theHanging orSuspendedChurch as 7th-century) structurecentury (somesay is 9-11amSun) Fri, Mu’allaqa; Map the entranceto façade inscribedwithCopticandArabic marks (the mainroadparallelwiththemetro),astone Just southof onSharia themuseum Mar Girgis Hanging Church at thetime of research. garden outfront;asmallcaféwasnotyetopen walls of monastery frescoes. There’s apleasant the Ptolemaicperiod,rich textiles andwhole sculpture thatshowsobviouscontinuityfrom the treasures includea These theycontain. inall thegalleriesasfor rate woodcarving it isabeautifulplace,asmuch fortheelabo- Reopened after renovation thorough in2006, 124 OLD CAIRO Rhoda 13 11 AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights

Nile River p124 ; Entrance to . Still in use forMass. Stillinuse andbypa- & Museum A Nilometer l-M 16 alek as- Salih Sharia Mar Girgis; Mar Sharia Abdin Bey Mosque of Hanging Church Hanging

To Ma’adi Corniche el-Nil (8km) Tahrir (4km) To Midan h

Coptic mass 8-11am Coptic mass8-11am Athar an-Nabi (Al-Kineesa al- (Al-Kineesa Market Footbridge Girgis Mar To Helwan (22km) 12 9 Footbridge 8 roofed aisles,theinterior of thechurch feels dates gutted from1909.Theinterior hasbeen sincethe10thcentury;thisone Coptic Cairo There achurch hasbeen dedicated tohimin decree forbidding thepracticeof Christianity. in AD303forresisting EmperorDiocletian’s conscript intheRomanarmy,hewas executed APalestinianmost popularChristiansaints. St George (Mar Girgis), isoneof theregion’s Monastery gate leadstotheGreekthe museum Orthodox onthestreet,Back thefirst doorwaynorthof Monastery &ChurchofStGeorge reveal theWater Gate below. cutoutof apanelhasbeen thefloorto right, tothe Judas.Inthebaptistry,off symbolise of thepillars, darker thantherest, to issaid that represent Christandhisdisciples;one on Palm on13slenderpillars Sundaystands tern. Infrontof only them,afinepulpitused workedonly bythetinycrosses intothepat- that are distinguishable fromIslamicdesigns haveing thealtar intricate geometric designs like anupturnedark.Ivory-inlaidscreens hid- 5 Coptic With itsthree barrel-vaulted, wooden- Cairo 4 3 7

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(Map 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A3 C1 C1 A2 B2 D1 B2 C3 C3 C2 C3 C2 C2 C2 C3 CAIRO s 125 Mosque galabiyya (Map p124 ; admission occupies the shell of a 4th- shell of occupies the (Map p124 ; Sharia Sidi Hassan al-Anwar, p124 (Map Ben Ezra Synagogue Ben Ezra Synagogue , the first mosque built in Egypt, con- mosque built in Egypt, , the first If you can, walk from Downtown CairoIf you can, walk from east (men’s full-length robes) begin to outnum- begin (men’s full-length robes) ber modern suits, buildings and crowds press closer on all sides, and the din comes less from street from the cries of car traffic and more cart wheels. Here of and the creak vendors mint and cumin mix with the the aromas of quered Egypt for Islam. On the site where Ibn where for Islam. On the site Egypt quered the original structure his tent, pitched al-As It with leaves. was only palm trunks thatched size in AD 827, and expanded to its current since then – has been reworked continuously was installed to a wood roof most recently, closely. The mimic the original style more oldest section sanctuary; the is to the right of some 200 of the mosque is a forest of the rest from taken columns, the majority different little else to see, There’s ancient sites. but the to rest. vast space is a pleasant place Islamic Cairo In just 1.5km, centuries fall away – as you near Midan Hussein, traditional aoh’s daughter found Moses in the reeds, and daughter found Moses in the reeds, aoh’s In 1890, to wash Jesus. water drew Mary where known than 250,000 papers, more of a cache in as the Geniza was uncovered documents, have researchers the synagogue; from them, the life detailsbeen of able to piece together from community the North African Jewish of 13th centuries. the 11th to IBN AL-AS MOSQUE OF AMR north past Souq al- leads Girgis Mar Sharia with quality market ), a covered p177 Fustat ( crafts shops and a pricey café, to the of Amr ibn al-As own should be careful – we’ve heard reports of of heard reports – we’ve be careful own should the gravestones. among lurking flashers Ben Ezra Synagogue the entrance, the cemetery To the right of 9th-century donations welcome) free, In the 12th century church. century Christian Ben by Abraham was restored the synagogue – hence its name. Jerusalem of Ezra, rabbi the the spot where Tradition marks this as in the Jews the gathered prophet Jeremiah destroyed Nebuchadnezzar 6th century after spring is The adjacent temple. the Jerusalem the phar- supposed where to mark the place to this district, the core of the medieval city. of to this district, the core structed in AD 642 by the general who con- general in AD 642 by the structed Old Cairo) Greek Convent of (Abu Serga; Map (Sitt Barbara; (saints’ festival) (saints’ festival) moulid (Map p124 ). Women on their p124 (Map , walk down the lane that , walk down the lane that CAIRO •• Sights Church of St Sergius Church of St Sergius Church of St Barbara (Map p124 ). The convent is closed ). The convent p124 (Map 8am-4pm) h Beyond leads to an iron gate the church Further along the alley, a passage leads leads Further along the alley, a passage Orthodox cemetery Orthodox cemetery the large, peaceful (if a bit litter-strewn) peaceful (if a bit litter-strewn) the large, Map p124 ) is at the corner; she was beaten to ) is at the corner; she was beaten p124 Map him death by her father for trying to convert in supposedly rest relics to Christianity. Her the nave. left of a small chapel the middle of all the ancient stones (as are its all the ancient stones (as are the middle of Returning to the main restrooms). superlative walkway, the to St George is being restored; the passage is being restored; to St George – a surprise in new church ends at a shiny to the left, where another church dedicated dedicated church another to the left, where from King Herod of Judea, who had embarked Judea, who had embarked of from King Herod born’. The cave the first of upon a ‘massacre by de- in question (now a crypt) is reached Every the altar. to the left of scending steps to year, on 1 June, a special mass is held here the event. commemorate inside the walls, with 3rd- and 4th-century where a cave It is said to be built over pillars. sheltered the infant Jesus and Joseph, Mary to escape persecution fleeingafter to Egypt around to the right. Duck under the low arch to the entrance, more steps and walk a few level. This is the oldest church below street p124 ; is on, following it St George of the Convent Churches of St Sergius & St Barbara & St Barbara Churches of St Sergius to the To get prayers. Usually, though, the nuns will merely though, the nuns will merely Usually, prayers. that they claim was you a chain to show offer early martyrs. used to bind the Roman occupation. Occasionally, visitors Occasionally, visitors the Roman occupation. in chains wrapped wishing to be blessed are who intone the requisite nuns, by the resident used for the chain-wrapping ritual that sym- used for the chain-wrapping during St George bolises the persecution of a beautiful wooden door, almost 8m high,a beautiful wooden door, is still occasionally a small room behind which to visitors, but you can step down into the but you can step to visitors, is Inside the latter main hall and the chapel. St George Down a sunken staircase Down a sunken the footbridge, by on your doorway the first along the alleyway, the of left leads into the courtyard Convent of St George of St George Convent ourful. The neighbouring monastery is closed monastery ourful. The neighbouring Coptic The to visitors. 23 April. on is held here Girgis Mar of by fires, but the stained-glass windows and windows and the stained-glass but by fires, bright and col- remain tile ceiling blue-green lonelyplanet.com CAIRO at its height, andagain onaquieter Friday at itsheight, tofeel the throngofon aweekday commerce streets andtwisting alleyways–ideallyonce ple of the narrow days wanderingthrough as an improvement. enormous rubbish heap,ishardtoargue with process. Vast Al-Azhar Park ( p140 ), oncean areCairo receiving helpinthe much-needed but it’salsotruethatsomepartsof Islamic thecomplaintshave merit, park. Certainly heritage theme human presence toasanitised precinctsignificant andintact withavibrant transform thedistrictfromanarchitecturally sis ontourist-friendliness andtidinesscould Likewise, thenew empha- and maintained. no visionastohowthespaceswillbeused ficially rebuilt, withlashingsof cementand concerned thatmonumentsare beingsuper- architects are programme. Someconservation of anambitious,costlyandslowrestoration by theglory of Islam. resplendent examplesof architecture inspired monuments thatremain are someof themost of commerceandpoliticalintrigue. Andthe power centres of theIslamicempire, anexus that formanycenturies,itwasoneof the parts of thecity.ButitisIslamicinsense not significantlymore religious thanother isabitofCairo’ misnomer,asthisarea is of minarets ontheskyline,term ‘Islamic thereDowntown, andcertainly isaprofusion fascinating. most districts,thisisundoubtedly the all Cairo’s of of directionsense time. butalsoasense Of notjusta ing andthecasualvisitorcanlose smell of canbedisorientat- thecity.Theeffect stink of livestock, –thereal petrolandsewage 126 Although theatmosphereAlthough isdifferent from The bestwaytoexplore isto spendacou- The Ministryof Culture isinthemiddle ISLAMIC CAIROHIGHLIGHTS

Climbtheminarets atBabZuweila ( p134 theviewover) tosurvey thewholemedievaldistrict. Siptea atthePlatonicidealof Compare theMosqueofIbnTulun ( p138 ) toitsimageonyourE£5bill,andpopintothe Take intheviewfromsouthendofBeinal-Qasreen ( p132 ) –withafew camels,youcould Soakuptheatmosphere Mosque( inAl-Azhar opposite ), thecentre ofSunniIslamiceducation AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights place torest before fordeals. orafter al-Khalili trawling Khan lectibles. adjacent Gayer-Anderson Museum( p138 andcol- ), aprivate homefurnishedwithquirkyart be ina19th-centuryetching. for more thanamillennium. ahwa (coffeehouse), Fishawi’s Coffeehouse ( p169 ) –agreat mosques andacouplesmaller gems. Ahmar district toMohammedAli’sseat Ahmar district of power. cal and symbolic centre of medieval cal andsymboliccentre ofmedieval Cairo. butitisnotdue anotherhalf-day, deserves ofmagnificent Museum IslamicArt( p134 ) makes agoodplacetorest after touring.The Al-Azhar Park, which borders thedistrictand each about halfadaytocover taking –plus We’ve withmaps, divideditintosixsegments canbeadauntingplace. tor, IslamicCairo few signpostsorotherconcessionstothevisi- With more than800listed monumentsand VISITING ISLAMIC CAIRO cart. donkey without beingrundownbyanoverburdened minaret toadmirepause adelicately carved (see p155 forasuggested walk)andyoucan morning orSunday,whenmostshopsare shut Caretakers expect atmosques andmuseums potholesandoddpuddles. to survive enough that canbeeasilyslipped off butthatisrobust before entering prayerhalls,sobring footwear ders mustbecovered. mustberemoved Shoes want toenter mosques,where legsandshoul- ifyou isnotjustpolite butnecessary Cairo Appropriate dress inthistraditionalpartof Park Al-Azhar Dead. Cemetery Northern CitadeltoIbnTulunThe Citadel The totheCitadel Al-Azhar al-Khalili ofKhan North al-Khalili &Khan Al-Azhar touring. after ders thedistrictandisagoodplacetorest to reopen for alongtime. Al-Azhar Park bor- walk totheoldcitygates and back. ( p135 ) HometoEgypt’srulersfor700years. ( p140 ) Great viewsfromthisgreen space. ( p138 ) Cairo’sfamousCityof the ( p133 ) ThroughtheDarbal- 17) w magnificent Two ( p137) 10) monument-studded A ( p130) poie) h geographi- The ( opposite) lonelyplanet.com CAIRO 127 (Map (Map s (see the moulid s with outdoor seating at the Mosque of Sayyidna al-Hussein where music and Sufi chanting music and Sufi chanting where ahwa midan, One of the most sacred Islamic sites in in Islamic sites the most sacred One of The mosque is a harmonious blend of blend of The mosque is a harmonious not allowed inside. Most of the building dates the building dates Most of not allowed inside. from about 1870, except for the beautiful 14th- The century stucco panels on the minaret. in front are modern-looking metal sculptures cover canopies that expand to elegant Teflon times. prayer during Friday worshipers boxed text p509 ) of Hussein and the Prophet ) of p509 text boxed when people throng the brightly Mohammed, lit is until the early morning. The square blares a popular meeting place at other times too, and the the head of burial place of is the reputed ) p129 the Prophet whoseHussein, the grandson of the rift be- Iraq, cemented death in Karbala, Islam. of branches tween the Sunni and Shiite Never mind that the Umayyad Mosque in and that relic, Damascus claims the same Shiite established by Sunnis – both mosques were non-Muslims are is still so holy that the site with its double finial, was added by Sultanwith its double finial, was al-Ghouri, whose and mausoleum mosque located standtomb chamber, nearby. The through a doorway on the left just inside the in- (a niche mihrab entrance, has a beautiful and should Mecca) of dicating the direction be missed. not Midan Hussein between two highly the vener- The square and Sayyidna Al-Azhar mosques of ated the focal points of al-Hussein was one of an important Cairo and remains Mamluk times, particularly on Ramadanspace at feast evenings and during the the highest theological authority for Egyptian the highestEgyptian for authority theological A madrassaMuslims. was established in AD that is the into a university 988, growing world’s second-oldest educational institution in Fez, al-Kairaouine of the University (after was one one time the university Morocco). At learning, of centres the world’s pre-eminent of the from Europe and across drawing scholars and it is still the most prestigious Arab world, Sunni theology. place to study numerous of styles, the result architectural The cen- a thousand years. over enlargements part, while, from tral courtyard is the earliest from date minarets south to north, the three centuries; the latter, the 14th, 15th and 16th entrance to the khan are often packed with with packed often entrance to the khan are and tourists. equal parts locals Egypt, the Egypt,

by is one Islamic 24hr) by British h Historic Cairo: Historic Al-Azhar Mosque The Monuments (square) and the mosque (square) CAIRO •• Sights midan which covers 500 buildings, com- covers which To prepare, check out www.cim.gov.eg or, www.cim.gov.eg out check To prepare, Caretakers are usually around from 9am around from 9am usually are Caretakers GETTING TO ISLAMIC CAIRO GETTING CAIRO TO ISLAMIC Al-Azhar Mosque of Cairo’s earliest mosques and its sheikh is of newly created Fatimid city, city, Fatimid newly created ; Sharia al-Azhar; p129 (Gami’ al-Azhar; Map Founded in AD 970 as the centrepiece of the of Founded in AD 970 as the centrepiece Western preconceptions of the Orient. of preconceptions Western Islamic Cairo is the area around Al-Azhar around Al-Azhar Islamic Cairo is the area bazaar, Khan al-Khalili Mosque and the great shamelessly to panders ), which p129 (Map AL-AZHAR & KHAN AL-KHALILI AL-KHALILI KHAN & AL-AZHAR with The best place to become acquainted to the Citadel entrance. to the the Citadel and Mosque of Ibn Tulun it may Ibn the Citadel and Mosque of a taxibe easier to take (E£10 from Downtown) Downtown). Most places in the following Downtown). Most places in the following although for from there, can be reached pages at the mouth of the bazaar (pay E£6 from the bazaar (pay E£6 from at the mouth of yourself into the crowds on Sharia al-Muski. yourself on Sharia into the crowds Or hail a taxi and ask for ‘Al-Hussein’ – the the name of the transition from the modern city; head for Midan Ataba then bear east under the elevated or throw al-Azhar, motorway along Sharia Azhar and Khan al-Khalili. The best approach is on foot from Downtown, so you can see Islamic Cairo covers a large area. The centre of of The centre area. a large Islamic Cairo covers is Al- the action, and the easiest place to reach, plete with historical data and renovation with historical data and renovation plete Press. AUC by published details. All are of Historic Cairo: A Map and Descriptive and Descriptive A Map Cairo: Historic of Catalogue, architect Jim Antoniou (E£75). Those Jim Antoniou (E£75). seriousarchitect to splurge may like about their architecture Warner’s E£300 on Nicholas Caroline (E£75), or Williams more thoroughly, the 5th edition of thoroughly, the 5th edition of more Guide, Practical The Monuments in Cairo: during prayer times. during until early evening, but may follow their own closed usually to visitors whims. Mosques are for Sultan Hassan and Ar-Rifai, this is not and Ar-Rifai, for Sultan Hassan for how to handle this p115 sanctioned – see other scams. and in a little extra if someone takes you up a up a you if someone takes in a little extra taken people have Some enterprising minaret. but except at mosques, entry fees to claiming tips, so bring plenty of small change – E£5 change small of bring plenty tips, so be sufficientshould but throw place, at each Islamic City, A Walk Through the lonelyplanet.com CAIRO to do business. are stillthefirst choice of forthousands locals parts of themarket, such asthe golddistrict, wasbuiltinthe14thcentury,and the khan that Cairenes have pliedtheir tradeshere since come withthem.Butit’sworthremembering on thesquare, that andallthetoutstat no ignoringtheflotillasof parked tourbuses Khalili Jaundiced travellers often dismiss Khan al-Khalili 128 drink) intown. travel companiesusetodescribeanoff-roadadventure tripintheirprogrammes: Onethat’scomefullcircleistheArabicword English forastyleofbuildingin…mudbrick. passed ontoSpanishas wordsthattravel.I like Forexample: Do youhave afavourite wordinEgyptian colloquialArabic? ofthecity,andfeel completelynight, inanypart safe? It’s thesafest cityIknow.HowmanyWestern citiescanyouwalkinaloneatanytimeofday or What doyoulikebestaboutCairo? Farahat Any restaurant recommendations ofthecity?Oranahwa? forthatpart fromBabZuweilaWalk: totheCitadelviaDarbal-Ahmar( p135 ). Andrelax? InCairo? Where’s yourfavourite placetowalkorrelax inthecity? stonedomesoexquisite Icanlookat itandforgetcarved tobreathe. onaforkinthestreet.fectly AndtheMausoleumofQaitbey( proportioned p139 ), whichhasa ( Katkhuda May Ihave two?The Sabil-KuttabofAbdelRahman p132 sited andper-) isperfectly You knowIslamicCairo very well.What’syourfavourite buildingthere? street life… the intense disregard ofregulations andimmensegoodhumouroftheinhabitants, 24-hour or itsmultiplicityofrhythms–isthesame:overall chaosthatcan’tpossiblyworkbutdoes, the metro,satellite dishes,theplotter-printed adsandshopsigns. Butitsunderlyingrhythm – Cairo isaneverchanging, never-changing itchangesallthetime:bridges, city.Onthesurface, Has thecitychangedalotsincethen? Then Icametolive here in1982. I first came toCairo in1979onmywaytoAl-Fayoum, where ItaughtEnglishforthree years. How longhave youlived inCairo? respected andliterature publishersinthefieldofEgyptian history,archaeology,arts intranslation. Associate director foreditorialprograms, The American University inCairo Press, oneofthemost NEIL HEWISON the clientele are thebest oldandold-fashioned,itserves between NubarandMohammedFarid withthebeautifulcalligraphyinside. It’scleanandquiet, stuffed orgrilledpigeon.The from…the Arabic the English AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights (Map p129 ) asatouristtrap,andthere’s

(126A Sharia al-Azhar, IslamicCairo; al-Azhar, (126A Sharia safari (a hunting trip in the African savannah), from the Swahili fromtheSwahili (ahuntingtripintheAfrican savannah), safar (journeying). adobe ahwa (from (coffeehouse) bestisinDowntown,theoneonBustan Ilike Khan al- Khan tuuba at-tuuba, h (brick)cameintoArabicfromCopticandthenwas noon-5am) thebrick),whichhasbeenadopted directly in paramount; theonlydistinct areas are now lostsincethetouristtradebecamehas been be dividedintofairly rigiddistricts,butthat toand alabaster used pyramids. Thekhan camelsstones, nottomention stuffed-toy thing fromsoappowdertosemiprecious ‘minimall’layout–stockevery- medieval around smallcourtyards,inthe original ofagglomeration shops –manyarranged (except FridaymorningandSunday), the Open fromearlymorningtosundown , in an alley off Al-Azhar St, serves great St,serves , inanalleyoffAl-Azhar subya (cold,sweet,fermented-rice safari lonelyplanet.com safaari, (ajourney), from CAIRO C3 C3 B4 C2 C3 C2 B2 A4 C2 A3 B1 C3

129 See Al-Azhar to The Citadel Map (p133) 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Al Azhar (Zuqaq (Zuqaq University To Northern To Al-Azhar Park entrance (1km) Cemetery (700m); 7

Midaq Alley Al-Gamaliyya Al-Halwagy...... Egyptian Pancakes...... Gad...... & Khan el-Khalili Restaurant Shop.. Mahfouz Coffee Fishawi's Coffeehouse..... Ahmed El Dabba & Sons.. Atlas...... Carpet Sellers...... El Kahhal Carpets...... Karama Perfumes...... King Saleh Bazaar...... El Hussein Hotel...... Mahmoud Abd El Ghaffar.. B3 SLEEPING EATING DRINKING SHOPPING Midan Hussein B4 C3 C2 C4 A4 B3 D2 A4 B3 C3 00 0.1 miles 100 m 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 4 12 Zeinab To Beit To (150m) al-Khatoun To Northern To Gates (300m) 17 3 2 21 10 Wikalat Haramein The other landmark, in the southwest The other landmark, in the southwest 18 Gates Underpass Medieval Dahab of Abu novel, but the way of life here is little is little here life but the way of novel, from his 1940s depiction. Such changed sign is is the alley’s fame that the street the at the foot of in the coffeehouse kept and is produced only on payment of steps baksheesh. Entertainment comes in the form of roaming roaming the form of comes in Entertainment who hawk salesmen, -women and -children wallets, carved cigarette canes, pistol-shaped packet after packet after and packet lighters of tissues. one of The title of ). p129 al-Midaq; Map best-known works, the Naguib Mahfouz’ alley may not be populated tiny stepped as the with the same colourful characters area of the khan, is of area 13 Mosque Tourist Police...... Al-Azhar Mosque...... al-Hussein...... Al-Ghouri...... Sharia al-Muski...... Tailors...... Post Office...... Toilet...... Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri... Midaq Alley...... Mosque of Sayyidna Mosque-Madrassa of INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wikala of Al-Ghouri...... B4 14 16

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M Alley - l Midaq A 5 22 Mosque of al-Mutahhar Spice Market CAIRO •• Sights Fishawi’s Coffeehouse Coffeehouse Fishawi’s To Bab To Barsbey al-Ashraf Mosque of Citadel (1km) 8 Zuweila (300m); 20 24hr except during Ramadan) There are few specific things to see in specific things to see few in are There AL-AZHAR & KHAN AL-KHALILI & AL-AZHAR To Midan Ataba; To Downtown (800m) To Midan Ataba; To Downtown (900m) block west of Midan Hussein, is an absolute Midan Hussein, is an absolute block west of and packed mirrors must. Hung with huge been open day and night, it claims to have except continuously for the last 200 years, during Ramadan, when everyone is fasting. the khan but h looking for, he’ll happily find somebody looking for, he’ll happily find somebody who does. and if one merchant doesn’t have what you’re what you’re doesn’tand if one merchant have spice dealers (see Map p129 ). Apart from from ). Apart p129 (seespice dealers Map touts, look for free’ mister, the clumsy ‘Hey Khan some al-Khalili of are the merchants ever you will smooth-talkers the greatest of meet. Almost anything can be bought here the gold-sellers, the coppersmiths and the and the the coppersmiths the gold-sellers, lonelyplanet.com CAIRO of his successor. fromthe buildingfaçadebyorderexcised then woundupstrangled –hisnamewas glass windows.He ruled foronlyayear, fromstained- marble panelling andlight a roomthatshimmers withblack-and-white al-Gashankiris entombed ininside. Beybars entrance,itissereneto amultipart‘baffled’ first dome. Builtin1310,thisisoneof thecity’s stubby minaret, toppedwithasmallribbed Gashankir ofSultanBeybarsal- &Mausoleum Khanqah the opposite sideof thestreet, theMamluk chandise at night. floors; heavy frontgates protected themer- yard, withguestroomsfortraders ontheupper storerooms surroundingacourt- andstables these of warehouse district, withmany the medieval when thisonewasbuilt.TheGamaliyya down fromabout 360inthe17thcentury, wikala mer, 9am-5pmwinter) al-Tombakshiyya; adult/studentE£15/10; yet empty– (go leftdownthelane)isfullyrestored – intended forthemosque’supkeep. Adjacent above arowof shops,therent fromwhich was overzealous restoration attention. It’sraised is amonumentthathasreceived thesomewhat scaffolding. wooden buildings obscured byrestorers’ websof a backalley,withmanyof theMamluk-era todayitlooksmore Cairo; likein medieval (Map p131 thoroughfare ), wasanessential Gamaliyya. Thisavenue, doglegs leftintothedistrictknownas of Sticktoitas Sayyidnaal-Hussein. leads alongthewestern sideof theMosque walkuptheroadthat From MidanHussein NORTH OFKHAN AL-KHALILI lingerie. shocking plastic toys,bucket-sized brasandsometruly cheapmaze, linedwithcartsselling shoes, touristycounterpoint al-Khalili’s toKhan al-Azhar It’sthe‘real toMidanAtaba. life’ Gawhar al-Qaid)andrunsparalleltoSharia (wherein thekhan it’sformallycalledSharia known as Congested andfabulous,themarket street Sharia al-Muski 130 Further northonSharia al-Gamaliyya,on The 1408 AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights khanqah s (merchants’ inns) in the medieval city, s (merchants’ inns)inthemedieval wikala (Map p131 ) isdistinguished byits Sharia al-Muski al-Muski Sharia Mosque of Gamal ad-Din Mosque ofGamal Wikala al-Bazara Wikala s (Sufimonasteries). Thanks s, all built to the same plan: s, allbuilttothesame , oneof about 20remaining Mp p2 begins p129) (Map Sharia al-Gamaliyya al-Gamaliyya Sharia (Map p131 ; Sharia Sharia p131; (Map h Mp p131) (Map 8am-6pm sum- he punisheddishonest merchants byhaving ridingadonkey.disguise, Mostnotoriously, boy. Thegeneral was beheaded. Hakim over standing page adisembowelled apartments wasconfronted byabloodied general rushingunannouncedintotheroyal fear fortheirlives:in constant avictorious his 24-yearreign. nearest Those tohimlived man murdered, alongwithscores of others in ing looksandbehaviour. Hakim later hadthe ofhim ‘LittleLizard’because hisfrighten- Egypt attheage of 11.Histutornicknamed Al-Hakim becamethesixthFatimid rulerof Mosque ofAl-Hakim Memphis. ancient on thestonesscavenged fromtheruinsof animalsandPharaonic figureswell ascarved inscriptionsleftbyNapoleon’stroopsas see walls andinsidethegates themselves, and should beable toget accesstothetopof the renovations are done(anyyearnow),visitors tecture thewholethingis.Whencurrent whatanimposingbitof archi- military see Qahira. Walkalongtheoutsideandyou’ll entrances tothewalledFatimid cityof Al- were builtin1087asthetwomainnorthern al-Futuh Victory; Map p131 ) andtherounded The square-towered Byas al-Gashankir). Beybars to apostearthquake restoration in1304by inthecity(thanks inpart earliest surviving masterpieces are thetwostoneminarets, the tion, it’snotparticularly interesting. Thereal with itsopen-plansquare andspare decora- group restored themosquein1980s, but AnIsmailiShiiteous founder,amadhouse. most appropriately, consideringitsnotori- awarehouse, aboys’schoola stable, and, Instead itfunctionedasaCrusaders’ prison, mosques butitwasrarely forworship. used Al-Hakim that continuesto this day. of Al-Darizyfoundedthesect theDruze seed was proof of Hakim’s divine nature. Fromthis of hisfollowers, amancalled Al-Darizy,this peared; found.Toone hisbodywasnever Hills,Hakimthe Muqattam simplydisap- one of nocturnaljauntsuponto hissolitary ant. Hisdeathwasasbizarre ashislife. On them dealtwithbyawell-endowedblackserv- Walls&GatesNorthern Hakim wouldoften patrolthestreets in Completed in1013,thevast (Gate of Conquests;Map p131 ) (Map p131 ) isoneof older Cairo’s Bab an-Nasr lonelyplanet.com Mosque of (Gate of Bab CAIRO , a , a 131 (Map (Map (fava (fava (water (water garlic-and- fuul 9am-5pm) s, braziers s, braziers mashrabiyya the narrow the narrow h Beit el-Suhaymi Beit el-Suhaymi sheesha sabil, sabil-kuttab (Map p131 ) runs east. Its ) runs east. Its p131 (Map (its shortened name; Map p131 ), p131 name; Map (its shortened Mosque of Suleiman Silahdar Mosque of Suleiman Silahdar (Map p131 ) gives way to a vari- ) gives p131 (Map Soon the stock expands to crescent- Soon the stock expands . Darb al-Asfar Heading south from the gates, a south from the gates, Heading through a narrow hall, you arrive at a peaceful through a narrow hall, you arrive recep- of courtyard surrounded by a warren It has been and baths. tion halls, storerooms furnished though barely thoroughly restored, by required precaution a extinguishers, (fire the most new woodwork, are the extensive it a result on display). As prominent item beans) and the graceful, curvaceous lines along its façade, with a rounded the corner. on fountain and school) & Beit el-Suhaymi Darb al-Asfar Suleiman’s Just south of lane stones and elaborate new paving carved the (ornate a sample of wooden) are Walking goals for the whole area. renovation – Ages the Middle conjures down here few The first clean. were if the Middle Ages part of buildings you pass are ; Darb al-Asfar; admission E£25; p131 (Map family mansion and caravanserai (merchants’ inn) built in the 17th and 18th centuries. jogging it’s nothing; after From the street, and touts have found their way up from the found and touts have at be impressed will likely khan. First-timers may be taken visitors return the streetscape; the changes. of aback at the extent cooking pots for and pear-shaped popular copper products, hence its more the an-Nahaseen of name, Sharia (Street On the right, about 200m Coppersmiths). south, is the in 1839, dur- late, ), built comparatively p131 Ali. It’s distin- Mohammed of ing the reign minaret guished by its thin, Turkish-inspired Sharia al-Muizz li-Din Allah Allah li-Din al-Muizz Sharia Sharia al-Muizz caliph from the Fatimid its name takes which CairoAD 969, is the former in who conquered medieval Cairo, of grand thoroughfare once entertainers storytellers, with chockablock and food stalls. These is getting days the street on up to from new pavement totally redone, the monuments of the minarets the tips of morning vehicle- along its length. During may comfortably gawk visitors hours, free being flattened of without fear at the sites by traffic. The drawback, though, is that this a tourist destination squarely is now more onion market small places selling ety of moon minaret tops, coffee ewers and other and other ewers tops, coffee moon minaret 4 A6 A6 A5 B3 B5 A4 A5 A5 A5 B4 A4 B3 B4 A6 A4 A5 A5 B3 B5 Al- Palace 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Al-Galal 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Gamaliyya

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i S e 11 B 13 12 To Midan To Ramses (1.5km) NORTH OF KHAN AL-KHALILI OF KHAN NORTH lonelyplanet.com CAIRO striped stone façades. pressive of assemblies minarets, domes and the street, providing oneof mostim- Cairo’s abutting Mamluk complexes line the westof works of rulers. subsequent Todaythree great palaces fell intoruinand were replaced by the flanked thestreet duringtheFatimid era. The a reminder of thegreat palacecomplexes that Qasreen south of the The partof Sharia al-Muizzimmediately Bein al-Qasreen views. rooftop nowlargelyhigh, ruinedbutwithsplendid domestic architecture, originally five floors The palaceisarare exampleof 14th-century thearchwaythen through atthebottom. Map p131 ), downthelittlealleytoeast, sits in to findthecaretaker withthekey. He often nice ceramicworkinside,soit’sworthtrying an emirnotoriousforhisdebauchery. There’s the ignorant.Thisonewasbuiltin1744by water for the thirsty andenlightenment for vided twothingscommendedbytheProphet: combo wasanatonementforsins,asitpro- and lithographs. Buildingthisfountain-school depicted inscoresIslamic Cairo, of paintings (Map p131 ) isoneof theiconicstructures of splits, the Further southalongthestreet, where theroad Sabil-Kuttab ofAbdelRahman Katkhuda the ribbingin hooded arch. including of vocabulary, themosquebuilders’ essential featuresSeveral appearhere thatbecamepart the oldeststone-façaded mosqueinEgypt. 1125 byoneof thelastFatimid caliphs, itis tite of thejunctionwithDarbal-Asfar, isthe pe- was originally built. at least,canenjoytheprivacyof thelaneasit whostillliveunsafe forkids.Nowthose here, shops andfactories–noisysometimes ground-floor tobesmallwork- spacesused residents. As onSharia al-Muizz,manyof the thatthestreet reclaimedbeen hasbeen for heavily debated. Onedefinite benefithas for the renovation. some 30familieswere tomake evicted way –especiallyconsideringfeels abitghostly 132 Back onShariaBack al-Muizz,just50msouth The changes onDarbal-Asfar have been Mosque ofAl-Aqmar AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights Qasr Beshtak (Between theTwoPalaces; Map (Between p131 ), Sabil-Kuttab of Abdel Rahman Katkhuda Katkhuda Sabil-Kuttab ofAbdelRahman muqarnas sabil-kuttab (Palace of AmirBeshtak; (stalactite)vaultingand Mp p3 . ul in Built p131). (Map isknownas Bein al- Madrassa & Mausoleum ofAn-NasirMohammed &Mausoleum Madrassa earliest andthemostsplendidof thethree ofQalaun & Mausoleum mausoleum of his father, Qalaun. Nasir Mohammed isinterred nextdoorinthe is An-Nasir’smotherandfavourite son;An- asyouenter butusuallylocked)(on theright foreign influence. Buriedinthemausoleum minaret, aNorthAfricanstyle,reveals more stucco arch. The lacy pattern onthecarved inscribedatthepointof‘Allah’ hasbeen the nation there in1290–note howtheword domi- Nasir andhisarmyendedCrusader church inAcre (nowAkko,Israel)whenAn- The Gothicdoorwaywasplundered froma accomplished. both despoticandexceedingly (Map p131 ), builtin1304byaMamluk sultan p131 ) isslated toopen in 2008. the madrassa, Directlysheikhs. acrossthestreet fromthe (see Cemetery p140 ), surroundedbySufi preferredhimself torest intheNorthern splendid domedtombchamber; thesultan isburiedinthe daughter columns. Barquq’s ceiling supported byfourporphyryPharaonic theinnercourthasacolourful To theright, intoavaultedwhite passageway. marbleportal years later. Enter theboldblack-and- through famine; hisSufischool wascompleted four 1382, whenEgypt wasreeling fromplagueand Barquq gives waytogold jewellers, signifying re- Soon a last cluster of copper workshops Bein al-Qasreen totheCityCentre the dead within. reciters chanting dayandnight requiems for how themausoleumwasflanked byQuran ances andmedicaments’.He alsodescribed ‘aninnumerable quantityofcontained appli- 1325, wasimpressed thatQalaun’shospital in who visited Cairo historian IbnBattuta, was cured of colic.TheArabtraveller and after hevisited oneinDamascus, where he tan windows. Thecomplexalsoincludesa stars andfloralmotifslitbystained-glass of inlaidstoneandstucco, patterned with isaparticularlyintricate assemblagethe right, looked likely, however. Themausoleum,on the timeof writing–anearly2008opening forrestorationbuildings. Itwasstillclosed at Barquq’s neighbour tothesouthis Barquq’s First comesthe Built injust13months, the1279 (hospital), which (hospital), Qalaunordered built (Map p131 powerin seized ). Barquq Egyptian Textile Museum Textile Museum Egyptian Madrassa & Mausoleum of &Mausoleum Madrassa Mp p3 i bt the both is p131) (Map lonelyplanet.com Madrassa Madrassa (Map maris- CAIRO

2735 9am- A4 A3 A4 A4 A3 A4 B3 B3 A3 A4 B3 B5 A4 A3 133 (Map (Map 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 % h 9am-6pm) Beit Zeinab h Beit al-Harrawi Mosque-Madrassa of Al-Ghouri Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri 2510 4174; admission E£10; ( p134 ). From there two routes lead lead two routes ). From there p134 ( (House of Zeinab Khatoun; Map p133 ; p133 Khatoun;(House of Zeinab Map % , a small but interesting Ottoman-era Ottoman-era , a small but interesting

Beit Zeinab al-Khatoun...... B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS SHOPPING Bab Zuweila...... Beit al-Harrawi...... Blue Mosque...... Mosque of Al-Maridani...... Mosque of Al-Mu'ayyad...... al-Ishaqi...... Mosque of Qijmas Ali Pasha...... Sabil of Muhammed Pasha...... Sharia Ahmad Mahir Studio Shosha...... Tarboosh (Fez) Maker...... Tentmakers Market...... Adb El Zaher...... Al-Khatoun...... Said Delta Papyrus Center......

Al-Ghouri Complex Complex Al-Ghouri opposite al-Azhar, Sharia On the south side of the khan, the grand minaret, ), with its red-chequered p129 (Map and the elegant monument form an exquisite ) together p129 in the vaults of a 15th-century merchants’ a 15th-century merchants’ in the vaults of lies this road building. At the top of al-Khatoun 7001; Sharia Mohammed Abduh; admission E£10; 6pm) affordinghouse superb views with a rooftop skyline. minaret-studded the surrounding of a peaceful little plaza, Across (Map p133 ; is another fine 18th-century mansion, but too sparse inside to warrant the admission charge. and It is sometimes used as a concert venue houses the Arabic Oud House; you may hear Betweenrehearsals. the two houses is Al- shops the city’s better ), one of p176 Khatoun ( and homewares. handicrafts for stylish AL-AZHAR TO THE CITADEL TO THE CITADEL AL-AZHAR al-Muizz Sharia al-Azhar, Sharia South of street as a market li-Din Allah continues of gate 400m down to the twin-minareted Bab Zuweila Sultan Hassan: of to the Mosque-Madrassa or Pasha, Ahmed Mahir east along Sharia al-Khayamiyya. Either south through Sharia dusty, way, it’s a long (at least 40 minutes), entrance of walk to the main interesting the Citadel. Ottoman Houses turn left and then Mosque, Leaving Al-Azhar left again into an alley between the southern shops housed the mosque and a row of wall of

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K - l A AL-AZHAR TO THE CITADEL TO AL-AZHAR To Midan Ataba; To Downtown (700m) To Museum To of Islamic Art (500m) take you to Midan Atabatake (1.2km); straight the easiest place to al-Azhar, ahead is Sharia a taxi. find At the junction with Sharia al-Muski, beside At the junction with Sharia two mosques, a left turn leads back to Midan Hussein, while heading right will eventually entry into the precincts of Khan al-Khalili. of entry into the precincts lonelyplanet.com CAIRO displays a particularly grand entrance portal, displays a particularlygrand entranceportal, Mamluk imprisoned, hadearlier been sultan (Map p133 ), builtonthesite where itspatron red-and-white-striped access toacistern below.Across thestreet, the at lastpass;check ifit’sopen,asthere isalso ticulously restored, tothe public itwasclosed me- ithasbeen Ottoman Turkish. Although window grillesandcalligraphic panels in tohave wasthefirstfountain inCairo gilded AliPasha of Muhammed on theleftisdelicate Ottoman-style E£15andE£60.Furtherdown for between by hotels andtouristrestaurants. Theysell isnowmainlybought man), thetarboosh presses. Oncewornbyevery p133 ) shapes thered felt hatsonheavy brass last the mosque,Cairo’s less than50msouthofclothing. Ontheright, busy market goodsandcheap forhousehold Al-Ghouriyya, Sharia al-Muizzbecomesa p133 ). Heading south intothedistrictcalled sageways are stillfilledwith cally thecity’ssilkmarket, andthesmall pas- south of were themosque-madrassa, histori- soleum, aswellthealleysjustwestand The street themosqueandmau- between Carpet &ClothesMarket p174). (see as atheatre forSufidanceperformances arestables craftshops.Thecourtyardserves rooms are artists’ateliers whiletheformer but more sympatheticallyrestored, theupper (see Similar totheWikalaal-Bazara p130 ) is anotherof legacies. thedoomedsultan’s 0472; admissionE£10; complex, the ignore claimsof ‘tickets’). Alsopartof the possible toclimbtheminaret (forbaksheesh; ing ceilings,isbeautifullydecorated; it’salso theinterior, smallbutwithsoar-scaffolding: street bythe atthemosque,don’tbeputoff may reopen asaculturalcentre. Acrossthe underrestorationbeen foranumberof years, Zuweila.at Bab Themausoleum,which has his short-lived successor,hanged bytheTurks thebodyoffrom 1505)contains Tumanbey, recovered.was never Hismausoleum(dating hisbody toConstantinople; Ghouri wassent Ottoman Turks.Theheadof thedefeated Al- to Syriaattheheadof hisarmy tobattlethe ruled for16years. Attheage of 78,herode Ghouri, thepenultimate Mamluk sultan, to theendof theMamluk era. Qansuhal- 134 AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights Wikala of Al-Ghouri ofAl-Ghouri Wikala h 9am-8pm Sat-Thu) Mp p3 . h 1820 The p133). (Map Mosque of Al-Mu’ayyad Mosque ofAl-Mu’ayyad tarboosh maker tarboosh maker carpet sellers Mp p129; (Map effendi , 100meast, (gentle- % (Map (Map Sabil 2511 adult/student E£10/5; instruments. Unfortunately it has been shutinstruments. Unfortunately ithasbeen scripts, woodwork,textiles andastronomy tions of Islamicappliedart:atrove of manu- Said) Islamic Art West of Zuweila500m,the Bab Museum ofIslamicArt two possible routes. of by IslamicArtorcontinuetothe Citadel asofferingsteeth over the centuries. which supplicantshave studdedwithnailsand to reside behindonetoweringwoodendoor, spirit of was(andstillis)said ahealingsaint inhalforcrucified.The victims beingsawn a popularformof street theatre, withsome in frontof thegate wasthesite of executions, views of thearea. InMamluk times,thespace open tovisitors, offer oneof thebestavailable in place. Thetwominarets atopthegate, also intriguing exhibitsabout thegate’s historyare Visitors mayclimbtheramparts,where some maining southerngate of Al-Qahira. medieval (10th century),beautiful timeasthenortherngatesBuilt atthesame Bab Zuweila is equally lavish. dripping withstalactitevaulting.Theinterior the Mosque-Madrassa of Hassan Sultan and Ali; aleftturnhere willtake you directly to intersectsKhayamiyya Sharia Mohammed (Map p133 ). About 800msouth,Sharia al- Zuweila,inthecoveredBab est concentrationof isdirectly artisans after original patterns fortablecloths. Thehigh- qué wallhangingsandbedspreads, andprint weddings andfeasts. Theyalsomake appli- for theceremonial tents atfunerals,wakes, fabricsused whoproducethebright sans takesKhayamiyya, its name fromthearti- The ‘Street of theTentmakers’, Sharia al- Sharia al-Khayamiyya toor for taxi from Downtown. PayMohammed Naguibmetrostation). E£4 along Sharia (passingbythe Samial-Barudi Sharia al-Qala’a. MidanTahrir is1.5kmwest down is700msoutheast,straight museum the ComingfromMidanAtaba, Museum. viewingastheEgyptiannearly asessential Shouldend insight. itreopen, considerit for restoration years, forseveral withno From here, youcandetourtotheMuseum holdsoneof theworld’sfinestcollec- Mp pp110-11; (Map h 8.30am-5pm) % Bab Zuweila Bab Zuweila 2390 1520; Sharia Bur 2390 1520;Sharia tentmakers market market tentmakers lonelyplanet.com istheonlyre- Museum of Museum Mp p133; (Map CAIRO B1 B1 C2 D1 135 Burg 8 9 ar-Ramla 10 11 Burg (1.2km) al-Haddad

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a S Seized 7 Citadel Museum Antiquities 3 EATING ENTERTAINMENT Police Museum...... Mamluks...... Café...... Open-Air Amphitheatre..... National Military Museum.... C1 Site of the Massacre of the (Mosque of Aqsunqur; Map Map Aqsunqur; (Mosque of 00 0.1 miles 200 m D1 B2 C2 D2 B2 B2 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 712 Burg at-Turfa and a lack of visitors make this this make visitors and a lack of was home to Egypt’s rulers for 700 rulers was home to Egypt’s 8 11 Blue Mosque Blue Mosque 2512 1735; Sharia Salah Salem; adult/student E£40/20; 8am-5pm Oct-May, 8am-6pm Jun-Sep, mosques closed dur- The Bab al-Gabal (Entrance) Pharaonic monument; the arches contain contain the arches monument; Pharaonic being excavated as part of the Al-Azhar the Al-Azhar as part of being excavated Park project. THE CITADEL spur on the east- a limestone Sprawling over the city, the of ern edge % h ing Fri prayers) very three Their legacy is a collection of years. mosques, several palaces (housing different some underwhelming museums; admission Roman, Christian and Islamic designs; and designs; and Islamic Christian Roman, added a fountainthe Ottomans and wooden attractive in the courtyard, housing. Trees mashrabiyya to stop. a peaceful place its popular name 1347, gets ), built in p133 marble on blue-grey of from the combination Ottoman tiling, and the flowery the exterior The minaret inside. not applied until 1652, affords the Citadel, while an excellent view of the mosque, you to the east, just behind over city walls, Saladin’s of can see the remains Ibrahim Statue of Northern Bab al-Qulla...... Mohammed...... Mosque of Mohammed Ali.. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Gawhara Palace & Museum.. B3 Mosque of An-Nasir Carriage Museum...... Garden Museum...... Mosque of Suleiman Pasha...... Enclosure 1 Mint 5 Gadid Bab al- (closed) Police Tourist Tourist Southern Enclosure 9 (Map (Map p133 ). 6 Prison Military (Sharia Ahmad Ahmad (Sharia 10 Police Terrace Terrace To Bab To 4 Museum Gawhara (1.2km) Zuweila (Map (Map p133 ) incorporates Lower Enclosure Akhur of Amir Mosque Pasha CAIRO •• Sights Darb al-Ahmar Darb al-Ahmar Mahmoud Mosque of Mosque of Qijmas al-Ishaqi Mosque of Qijmas al-Ishaqi Salah Midan ad-Din ha Sayyida Ais of Sultan Hassan Mosque-Madrassa About 150m further on the right, the 1339 About THE CITADEL architectural elements from several periods: architectural from a taken eight columns were granite Mosque of Al-Maridani are beautiful stained-glass windows, inlaid beautiful stained-glass windows, inlaid are walls. stucco and marble floors the 1481 the plain exterior: by Don’t be deceived inside build outside the gates. Most of the structures the structures Most of build outside the gates. era. Mamluk from the late date around here period is the best examples from this One of was built-up, patrons of new mosques, pal- was built-up, patrons of forced to were institutions aces and religious district of twisting streets and dark cul-de- and dark twisting streets district of Al-Qahira inside the walls of area the sacs. As of about 250,000, most of whom lived outside outside whom lived about 250,000, most of of residential the city walls in this tightly packed Mahir Pasha; Map p133 ), or ‘Red Road’. In p133 Map Pasha; Mahir heyday Cairothe district’s had a population 15th centuries and is named for its main its main and is named for 15th centuries thoroughfare, Darb al-Ahmar Darb al-Ahmar and up during the 14th grew This district to the Citadel,to the al- along Darb but the detour monuments. more passesAhmar lonelyplanet.com CAIRO for thePharaonic obeliskthat adornsthePlace from KingLouis-Philippe of Franceinthanks glitzy clockinthe centralcourtyard,agift asyouenter.ble tombontheright Note the criticism, themosque’s patronliesinthemar- graceless andcompared ittoatoad.Beyond Other writers have calleditunimaginative and arets pricked, like afat,white, watchful cat’. white inthissand-coloured withmin- city,sat Mohammed Ali’salabaster mosque,uniquely Manning’s descriptionofmost evocative itisinOlivia liers andluridlystripedstone. Perhaps the 48), anditsinterior isalltwinklingchande- upon domes,ittook18years tobuild(1830– classic Turkish lines,with domesupon Mohammed Ali The fortress isdominated bythe Mosque ofMohammedAli givenbeen over to tourists. mostof has foothold, although theCitadel WWII, andEgyptian soldiers stillhave asmall The Britisharmywasbarracked here during ( p117 garrison. becameamilitary ), theCitadel moved hisresidence totheAbdeen Palace nates Cairo’s eastern skyline. Turkish-style mosquethatcurrently domi- rest of andcrowneditwiththe theCitadel Mohammed Alicompletely remodelled the asastable.ing wasasinglemosque,used them. TheonlyMamluk structure leftstand- when theFrench left–fromdemolishing topowerstop Mohammed Ali–whorose Islamic monumentsinCairo. Thisdidn’t buildingsassomeofgarded these thefinest control in1798,theemperor’ssavants re- when Napoleon’sFrench expeditiontook the Mamluk palacesdeteriorated. Even so, main gate, al-Azab, theBab was added,while the fortress expandedwestwardsandanew harems. UndertheOttomans(1517–1798) the complex,addingsumptuouspalacesand Ayyubid dynasty,theMamluks enlarged Following theiroverthrow of Saladin’s were Palestine. thenrampagingthrough to fortifythecityagainstCrusaders, who ). right (see overpriced, nottomentionaslogget to it isrelatively unimpressive anddecidedly most populartouristattractionsinCairo, views over thisisoneof thecity.Though the fee included)andacoupleof terraces with 136 After Mohammed Ali’sgrandsonIsmail in1176Saladin beganbuildingtheCitadel AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights The LevantTrilogy: (Map p135 ). Modelledalong ‘Above them Mosque of and it’soften anyway. closed lame attempt toevoke 19th-centurycourtlife, dull the other terrace withgoodviews.Beyond, weapon. murder sinations, complete withthe insomecases includes displaysonfamouspoliticalassas- located atthenorthernendof theterrace, flyblown The p37). the infamousmassacre of theMamluks (see al-Azabway leadingtoBab wasthesite of tothepublic),steep-sided road- (closed LowerEnclosurebelow, intheCitadel’s the waytoPyramidsatGiza. Immediately leads toagrandterrace, withsuperbviewsall Nasir Mohammed, amock-Gothicgateway Egypt. in covering of glazedtiles,somethingrarely seen finials of theminarets are interesting fortheir muqarnas of itsmarble,buttheoldwoodceilingand Ihaditstripped Selim the Ottomansultan ture. Theinterior because isalittlesparse Mamluk struc- solesurviving is theCitadel’s 1318 delivery andhasyetto be repaired. de laConcordeinParis. Itwasdamaged on tricts. From Midan Ataba go straight down gostraight tricts. From MidanAtaba furniture andmusical-instruments dis- the entrance gate, it’salmost4km through totheCitadel’s To walkfromMidan Ataba Getting To/From theCitadel the Ottoman-style domed mosque. (Map p135 ), afarmore tasteful example of appreciate the1528 p135 of). Devotees Islamicarchitecture might thrilling linesof the area withafew alongthe smallermuseums, a theneventually fun tostart, bit depressing. the 20th-centuryconflictswithIsrael–kitschy moments inwarfare, fromPharaonic timesto halls are linedwithdioramasdepictinggreat bition inthecountry.Endlessplush-carpeted (Map p135 ) andperhapsthebest-tended exhi- Palace, nowthelavish café liesMohammed Ali’sone-timeHarem al-Qulla.16th-century Bab Past anoverpriced Entrance totheNorthernEnclosure isviathe EnclosureNorthern Dwarfed byMohammed Ali’smosque,the South of Mohammed Ali’smosqueisan- Facing theentranceof theMosqueof An- East ofEast thecaféanarrowroadleadstoan Gawhara Palace & Museum Palace &Museum Gawhara Mosque ofAn-NasirMohammed showsupnicely,andthetwisted Police Museum Police Museum Mosque ofSuleimanPasha Carriage Museum Museum Carriage National Military Museum Museum National Military lonelyplanet.com Mp p3 i a is p135) (Map Mp p135), (Map Mp p135) (Map (Map CAIRO is 2514 137 (Map cen- % Mosque 3

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C1 C2 D1 B2 D1 C1 I (Map p137 ; E£20) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Umm Abbas Sabil of 7 Opposite the grand mosque, the the grand Opposite 2 four main schools of Sunni Islam. At the rear At the rear Sunni Islam. of schools four main Italian Institute sign, the Italian Institute p137 ; Sharia Suyufiyya; admission free; for whirling dervishes.theatre Hidden behind Museo Mevlevi & Amir Taz Palace Palace Taz & Amir Mevlevi Museo as-Salbiyya Sharia Walking west along busy Tulun. Ibn eventually of leads to the Mosque Suyufiyya on Sharia A short detour north but rewarding brings you to two little-visited buildings. The con- Muhammad’s closest advisers, who later trolled the throne through Sultan Hassan. the home is not Now used as a cultural centre, as Beitas extensive el-Suhaymi, but admis- small of a couple are and there sion is free, exhibits, a beautiful wood ceiling in the loggia and even clean bathrooms. A little further door with an a green behind down the street, of the eastern the eastern of Crusader by stolen col- mihrab is flanked right,umns. To the leads to a bronze door sultan’s mausoleum. the of Ar-Rifai Begun scale. similarly grand and not in 1869 Revival 1912, it’s an Islamic finished until Egypt’s modern of Members confection. Ismail and Khedive royal family, including buried inside, as is the last are King Farouk, Their tombs lie to the left of Iran. shah of the entrance. 2581; 17 Sharia admission free; Suyufiyya; tres on a meticulously restored Ottoman-era on a meticulously restored tres the restored home of one of Sultan al-Nasir one of home of the restored Mosque of Taghribardi Midan ibn Tulun

4 Al-Hod al-Marsud Al-Hod Mosque of Sarghatmish s (vaulted s (vaulted

Amir Taz Palace...... Gayer-Anderson Museum...... Mosque of Ar-Rifai...... Mosque of Ibn Tulun...... Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan... Museo Mevlevi...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SHOPPING Khan Misr Touloun...... C2

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Yusuf al-Sibai Yusuf Zein al-Abdeen Zein Mosque of Sayyida Zeinab THE CITADEL TO IBN TULUN THE CITADEL Tahrir (1.4km) To Metro To Station (700m) To Midan To Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan walls are punctured by four punctured walls are the of each to teaching halls), one dedicated the striking, recessed entrance, a dark passage the striking, recessed whose courtyard soaring leads into a square was completed. Tragedy also shadowed the also shadowed Tragedy was completed. col- the minarets construction when one of Beyondlapsed, killing some 300 onlookers. posed and reinstated no less than three times, three no less than posed and reinstated the mosque shortly before then assassinated early-Mamluk architecture in Cairo. It was in Cairo. architecture early-Mamluk built between 1356 and 1363 by the troubled Sultan Qalaun; a grandson of Sultan Hassan, 13, was de- of he took the throne at the age Massive yet elegant, the great structure of the of structure yet elegant, the great Massive Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan est mosques, plus a few tiny surprises. tiny est mosques, plus a few THE CITADEL TO IBN TULUN TO IBN TULUN THE CITADEL Islamic Cairo’s larg- in two of takes The route to the intersection with Salah Salem. with to the intersection to the complicated trafficto the complicated flow on the highway. you closest, gets A microbus to Sayyida Aisha walk to Sharia Salah Salem via Sharia Sayyida via Sharia Salah Salem walk to Sharia A taxiAisha. 150 will cost E£12. Minibus from Midan Ataba.(E£1.10) runs and This other services Salah you only at Midan drop the en- walk from a 15-minute ad-Din, still is easier trance; taking a taxi here (E£3) from due quicker but only marginally on the legs, Sharia al-Qala’a and its continuation, Sharia Sharia its continuation, and al-Qala’a Sharia ad-Din, then Salah Ali, to Midan Mohammed lonelyplanet.com Salah admission E£20; ad-Din; 6pm Jun-Sep) CAIRO furniture andasilver Theenchant- tea set. AnneRoomdisplaysornate and theQueen ing, theDamascus Roomhaslacquerandgold, of styles:thePersian Roomhas exquisite til- The puzzleof rooms isdecorated inavariety Gayer-Anderson bequeathedthelottoEgypt. travels intheregion. Onhisdeath in1945, knick-knacks acquiredand Oriental onhis 1942, fillingthemwithantiquities, artwork 1935and between ing 16th-centuryhouses army doctorwhorestored the twoadjoin- John Gayer-Anderson, theBritishmajor and E£20; % theHouseofCretan Woman;Map (Beit al-Kritliyya, p137 ; entrance of themosque,thisquirky agatewayThrough tothesouthof themain Gayer-Anderson Museum filled withshops and stalls. butatonetime cityatadistance, the secular moatlike courtyard,originallycreated tokeep ReachCitadel. thetowerfromouter, ret, which alsohasmagnificent viewsof the best appreciated from thetopof themina- ble for Friday prayers. the wholecommunityof toassem- Al-Fustat mosque covers 2.5hectares, large for enough years before theEuropeanGothicarch. The structure thepointed arch, touse agood200 ing toarchitectural historians,thisisthefirst added someinnovations of hisown:accord- which thespiral minaret ismodelled.He also the ancientMosqueof Samarra (Iraq),on inspiration fromhishomeland,particularly brick-and-timber structure. IbnTulundrew fisted restoration usingcementonthemud- of itsmostbeautiful,despite aratherham- functioning Islamicmonument.It’salsoone itisthecity’soldestintact, caliph of Baghdad, inthe9thcenturybyAbbasidAl-Fustat toruletheoutpostofTulun, whowassent AD876and879byIbn dolls. Builtbetween crenellations thatresemble astringof paper wallstoppedwithneat identified byitshigh Mosque ofIbnTulun Another 250mwestonSharia as-Salbiyya,the Mosque ofIbnTulun a rare modelof excavation.thoughtful notesbuilding’s foundation;thethorough are the remains of thatformsthe themadrassa feels like alittlejewelbox. Downstairs, see stone façades,thebeautifulwoodstructure 138 The mosque’sgeometric simplicityis 2364 7822; Sharia ibnTulun;2364 7822;Sharia adult/studentE£30/15,video h AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights 9am-5pm) gets itscurrent namefrom Mp p137; (Map h 8am-6pm) iseasily museum moved inmore recently, tryingtomake their have lived here forgenerations. Others have cially thepaidguardiansandtheirfamilies, Victorious, Max Rodenbecknotes in 50,000; others, at10timesthisnumber. As put thenumberof livingCairenes here at is more ‘town’than‘shanty’.Someestimates andmultistoreylines, apostoffice buildings, disappointed; thearea, complete withpower Visitors expectingmorbidsqualormaybe dead,butfor thelivingtoo.places forCairo’s fact thatthecemeteries are notonlyresting the Dead.Thetitillatingnamerefers tothe necropolis knownpopularlyastheCityof Map (Al-Qarafa; Cemetery p139 Northern ) isthemore interesting halfof avast The NORTHERN CEMETERY station. metro quarter where of there’s SayyidaZeinab, a ing another750mwesttothepopular p176 ) isagood handicrafts emporium. Me. in theJames Bondfilm asalocation wasused familiar –themuseum plex lovinglyhas been restored, withmore com- carpet-covered alcoves. Therooftop terrace decoratedmarble fountain, ceilingbeamsand magnificent ing ence of thelivingand thedeadwashappening them forfree accommodation. Thiscoexist- be remembered; thecity’shomelessthanked overnight visitors. The deadhopedtheywould humblest familytombs includedaroomfor people picnickingamongthegraves. Even the a continuationof thePharaonic tradition of were – alsomeantasplacesforentertaining they builtwere more thanjusttombs;they packedthe densely city.Thevastmausoleums of buildingspacethatwasunavailable inside thesort andemirs itafforded sultans because gadgets. or modestly anddon’tflauntcostlyjewellery space, which isavery low-incomeone;dress that youare inamore private, residential best timetocome. Atalltimes,remember spects tothedead–thisisundoubtedly the visitors flockhere topicnicandpaytheirre- suburbs on.OnFridaysandpublicholidays way backtothecentre frombleaklow-income From here, it’srewarding tokeep walk- The cemetery first appealedtoMamluk mashrabiyya Across the street, Khan Misr Touloun (see Across thestreet, MisrTouloun(see Khan mashrabiyya someof thetombdwellers, espe- qa’a (reception hall)which hasa gallerylooksdownontoa . Youmayfindtheinterior TheSpyWhoLoved Cairo: TheCity lonelyplanet.com CAIRO 139 B2 B2 C1 C2 C1 B3 A3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (Map (Map p139 ). Footbridge 00 0.1 miles 200 m Mosque of Amir Qurqumas... Post Office...... Barsbey...... Khanqah of Sultan Inal...... Barquq...... Tomb of Emir Tashtimur...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Complex of Sultan Ashraf Khanqah-Mausoleum of Farag Ibn Tomb of Asfur...... B2 Mosque of Qaitbey...... 3 s around a central court lit by large, s around a central court lit by large, 5

Complex of Sultan Ashraf Barsbey Complex of Sultan Ashraf Barsbey

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I will let you in for baksheesh (ask the ever- not around). if he’s children present marble, it’s one of the most pleasant places marble, it’s one of The ad- in Cairo to sit for a while and relax. contains the cenotaphs jacent tomb chamber The true glory, Qaitbey and his two sisters. of the of the exterior where however, is above, dome is carved star and floral with interlaced never designs; its intricacy and delicacy were surpassed else in Cairo in the or anywhere for the Islamic world – climb the minaret best view. Other Monuments and continue From Qaitbey cross the square widens and 350m the street about north. After area on the right a stone wall encloses a large ground that was formerly rubble-strewn of the Though as the one top- not as sophisticated Qaitbey, the dome here ping the Mosque of is carved Inside with a beautiful star pattern. is some fine marble flooring and a beautiful minbar (pulpit) inlaid with ivory. The guard iwan in cool windows. Panelled lattice-screened

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Sa mosque Sultan Ahmed Sultan 6 Complex 8 Gate of Qaitbey CAIRO •• Sights Tughay Khawand Khanqah of (Map p139 ) on your left. About ) on your left. About p139 (Map Footbridge The easiest way to the Northern Cemetery NORTHERN CEMETERY NORTHERN To Al-Azhar; To Khan al-Khalili (700m) To Al-Azhar To Park Entrance (600m); Citadel (2.2km) Mosque of Qaitbey Mosque of Qaitbey the boldly striped façade, the interior has four the boldly striped façade, the interior the E£1 note, is widely agreed to mark the is widely agreed the E£1 note, Behind Islamic building in Cairo. pinnacle of something of an aesthete. His an aesthete. something of on and featured in 1474 ), completed p139 Mamluk leader with any real power in Egypt. power in Egypt. any real leader with Mamluk and, though he was as ruled for 28 years He sultan, he was also ruthless as any Mamluk Sultan Qaitbey, a prolific builder, was the last ing under a stone archway. This is the gate This is the gate ing under a stone archway. Qaitbey, whose to the former compound of ahead. immediately splendid mosque is Tashtimur Tashtimur 150m further on, a narrow lane goes left, pass- Follow this road to the left, then right. You’ll pass by the crumbling, domed go straight along the road between the tombs. houses, serve cenotaphs as tablesand washing between headstones. is strung is heading east from Midan al-Hussein along the the top of you breast As al-Azhar. Sharia and hill, bear right, walk below the overpass as far back as the 14th century; in some tomb- lonelyplanet.com CAIRO a gorgeous respite oraweirdlyisolated elite visit set is essential. city andbeyond–asun- across themedieval onthepark’sawesomeviewscapitalising there’s anexcellentrestaurant here ( p165 ) of smallcafésandanopen-airtheatre ( p173 ), Islamic architecture. Inadditiontoacouple bubbleinfront of modernfountains sleek Arabic musicdriftssoftly fromspeakers and system) cover thegrounds, whileambient a lake (partof alarger public water-supply a profusion of gardens,emeraldgrass,even park isfromanyotherpublicspaceinCairo: to convey justhowdramaticallydifferent the (and only)parkof significant size. It’shard landscaped swathof green, thecity’sfirst garbage wastransformedintoabeautifully ofa mountain centuries’worthof collected Aga TrustforCulture, Khan whathadbeen midnight) % when substantially eastern horizonchangedIslamic Cairo’s AL-AZHAR PARK to Al-Azhar Park’s main entrance. another kilometre downSharia SalahSalem ing totheunderpass –oryoucancontinue Ahmed willbringyoubacktotheroadlead- walk850mdownShariaA straight Sultan Asfur until youcometothesmall,elongated onyourleft, trance, passingthepostoffice aheadfromtheen- walkstraight Ibn Barquq, they are not always open. are beautiful,thankstorestoration work,but the 1456 1507 Two large adjacentcomplexes northwest–the CemeteryNorthern toAl-Hussein and-black geometric patterns. their ceilingsare painted inmesmerisingred- one formen–are each toppedwithdomes; cades. Twotombchambers –oneforwomen, In thecourtyard,monasticcellsleadoff thear- façadesandtwinminaretssheer anddomes. khanqah al-Qasreen ( p132 ). Completed in1411the great onBein andmausoleumstand madrassa p139 whose ), builtbyasonof Barquq, Sultan ofFarag Ibn Khanqah-Mausoleum Barquq 140 Depending onyour outlook,theparkis Two hundred metres furthernorthisthe Rather thanjustretracing yourstepsRather from 2510 7378; www.alazharpark.com; E£10; 2510 7378;www.alazharpark.com; (Map p139 ); turnleftimmediately after. AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights Mosque ofAmirQurqumas openedin2005.Withfundsfromthe isafortresslike buildingwithhigh, Khanqah ofSultanInal Khanqah Al-Azhar Park Al-Azhar Mp p3 and p139) (Map Mp p3 – p139) (Map Mp pp110-11; (Map h Tomb of (Map 9am- housed in agorgeoushoused 1924 Islamic Revival 9pm Sat-Thu) Zamalek; adult/student E£25/15; pleasant place to wander around and an even placetowanderaroundandaneven pleasant (Map pp144–5 ) hasfew touristsites, butit’sa sions and1920sapartmentblocks,Zamalek A leafyneighbourhood of oldembassyman- ZAMALEK clubs and parks. islargelystill calledGezira, occupiedbysports ish residential therest, districtof Zamalek; hotel (nowthecore of the Marriott).Cairo were whilethepalacewasmadeintoa soldoff, of theearly20thcentury, palacegrounds boom royal garden.Duringthedevelopment on theisland,withrest of thelandasa Ismail dedicated hisenergy toagreat palace he builtmodern-dayDowntown,Khedive of alluviallandrisingupoutof theNile. After (Arabic for‘island’)wasanarrowstrip Gezira Uninhabited untilthemid-19thcentury, keeping the rabble out. the Ayyubidgates andwalls,butalsohandily at lastvisit,allegedly forrenovation workon side, intheDarbal-Ahmar district,were shut most people. Theentrancesonthedownhill E£12 fromTahrir), it’sanexpensive trek for Salem, which requires toreach ataxi (pay as longtheonlyentranceisonSharia Salah playground. Theatmosphere maychange, but (Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5; (Map thehotel, the Behind where youcanenjoyyourcoffee orbeer. good bakery ( p168 ) andalush, shadygarden Marriott ( p161 ). Thisconverted palace hasa July, andoverlooking theNile,isCairo Cilantro Swiss hotelier in1927 –café CharlesBaehler floor of alavish apartmentcomplex builtby bookshop Diwan( p109 ) and–intheground wards thebridge toBulaq,are theexcellent of thecity’soldest European-style cafés. Sharia 26thof July,Simonds a coupleof doors eastof Hassan Sabryon (to thenorth)isfocalpointof thearea. Just Hassan Sabry(headingsouth)andSharia Brazil across theisland,anditsjunctionwithSharia better place toeat,drink and shop. Zamalek &Gezira The northernthirdof theislandisstyl- Immediately southof Sharia 26thof Further eastalongSharia 26thof July,to- The mainstreet, Sharia 26thof July,cuts

( p168). is a beautiful small museum. It’s isabeautifulsmall museum. % 2737 3298; 1 Sharia Sheikh al-Marsafy, al-Marsafy, Sheikh 2737 3298;1Sharia Museum of Islamic Ceramics ofIslamic Ceramics Museum h

10am-1.30pm &5.30- (see (see p168 ) isone lonelyplanet.com CAIRO

Al Al 2737 2736 2736 10am- 141 % 10am-2pm 10am-2pm 2512 % h h % 10am-1.30pm 10am-1.30pm h

(Map p148 ; 2735 6861;

(Map ; p148 Bride of the Nile the Bride of % Palace of ArtsPalace

(Map p148 ; are Coptic Christians, and Christians, and Coptic are houses a vast – perhaps too houses a vast – perhaps too , recommended by Lonely Planet by Lonely Planet , recommended and the zabbaleen (The City, 1937). Though Said has (The City, 1937). Though Said has Across from the Cairo Across Opera House, the The Elsewhere in the exhibition grounds, the Elsewhere Hanager Arts Centre 10pm Tue-Sun) 0603, 736 7627; www.fineart.gov.eg; it still can be difficult to appreciate the work the work it still can be difficult to appreciate dust and collected the cramped rooms, given The museum’s are prize items signage. lack of all on the ground floor: Mukhtar’s Mahmoud Deco-elegant bronze statue Said’s along with Mahmoud is here, Madina one of he was imitators, kitschy a slew of in vivid artists to depict folk life the first Naguib colour, and his commitment inspired in writing. his own career to pursue Mahfouz Throughout the museum, it is interesting to observe as Pop such trends how Western – in Egypt themselves manifested Art have sharper social almost always with a much is a small café Upstairs or political message. postcards and sellingand a gift shop a few posters. Museum of Modern Egyptian Art 6667; www.modernartmuseum.gov.eg; E£10; & 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun) 20th- and 21st-century vast – collection of a 2005 renovation, after art. Even Egyptian (Kineesat Samaan al-Kharraz; Map pp110-11 ; pp110-11 (Kineesat Samaan al-Kharraz; Map

is zabbaleen.

(Map p148 ; district (which is surprisingly tidy, considering), anyone you district is surprisingly tidy, considering), anyone you (which the well- have out- have . Below the , presided , presided (Map p148 ) p148 (Map 012 347 6343; [email protected]) (admission E£2)

% ( midan, sheesha zabbaleen Cairo House Opera , on a ridge above ‘Garbage City’, is just a part ‘Garbage a whole complex carved of above , on a ridge (Map (Map pp144–5 ), with sev- Church of St Simeon the Tanner Simeon the Tanner Church of St CAIRO •• Sights backyards, recycling the edible trash. backyards, recycling Midan Saad Zaghloul (Map p148 ; admission E£10) p148 (Map

pedestrian corniche . Built in 1988 with money from Ibrahim Morgan Ibrahim Morgan on the banks of the Nile two lush on the banks of Gezira Exhibition Grounds zabbaleen In fact, the To make your own trek to this modern marvel, tell your cab driver ‘Manshiyet Nasr’ or ‘Madeenat ‘Manshiyet Nasr’ or ‘Madeenat marvel, to this modern your cab driver To make tell own trek your But this church is not old (nor are any of the others here, though some are tucked in spooky tucked in spooky though some are here, any of the others (nor are But this church is not old midan 2739 8144) 3666; ManshiyetNasr) readers. THE MIRACLE ON THE MOUNTAIN THE MOUNTAIN ON THE MIRACLE Looking certainly – but it collected some parts around garbage is never you’d think is, of Cairo, as thousands of people known of by tens sortedtheir district Hills at the base of the Muqattam into all the city’s refuse, contains not only in the country. of the most surprising churches bits, but also one recyclable az-Zabbaleen’; after turning off the highway toward Muqattam, make the first left, going slightly off the highway toward Muqattam, make turning the first left, going slightly az-Zabbaleen’; after in the uphill. Once you’re into the cliffs. It seats 5000 (that the buses carrying worshippers fit through the lanes below is is the lanes below worshippers fit through 5000 (that the buses carrying It seats into the cliffs. a miracle in itself) biblical scenes carved and is ringed with the ridge into the rock. Look over pigs rooting around live sprawling city; look down, and you see real, and you can see the whole the honour for a 10th-century ascetic in 1994, St Simeon is a belated Completed hermits’ caves). li-Din Allah caliph Al-Muizz (per at the behest of Fatimid who prayed to make Muqattam move shall say unto this mountain, faith as a grain of mustard seed, ye Matthew 17:20: ‘If ye have of is a major site Today the church yonder place; and it shall remove…’). hence to Remove Coptic pilgrimage. E£60 for a headed. Pay you’re – they all know where the right direction you in pass will wave If you’d like to go with a guide, with an hour’s waiting time. round-trip taxi from Downtown, consider Off the the west side of tional Islamic design. See p173 for details. p173 tional Islamic design. See % on tradi- the building is a modern take Japan, are dominated by the dominated are door cafés where local families and young local families and young door cafés where and tea of couples partake gardens, the over by the statue of tarbooshed by the statue Mr Zaghloul of over North of himself, a 1930s nationalist leader. the ular strolling spot for couples at sunset. This brings you to Gezira (Map p148 ) is best approached across across ) is best approached p148 Gezira (Map a pop- from Midan Tahrir, Qasr el-Nil Bridge GEZIRA GEZIRA eral galleries hosting rotating contemporary rotating contemporary eral galleries hosting exhibitions. hand grenades on display. The garden and on display. The garden and hand grenades to the over given the building are back of Gezira Art Center vintage bathroom!) are as fascinating as the as fascinating as the bathroom!) are vintage tiles and even 11th-century colourful plates, villa, where the intricately carved the intricately villa, where walls (and lonelyplanet.com formal gardens lively in the evenings. in lively groomed CAIRO Saad Zaghloul onthenearby Saad Zaghloul reate of independentEgypt, responsible for (1891–1934)wasthesculptorlau- Mukhtar % bank other than a hospital andtheroad tothe bank other thanahospital to Egypt showsnothingontheNile’swest A mapof inBaedecker’s 1929guide Cairo Mohandiseen , Agouza & Doqqi encountermight quite aqueue at dusk. the cafeteria (E£80,includingentrance). You ing entrance),oryoucanget asoft drinkat looking food(E£100lunch ordinner,includ- dodgy- revolving restaurant ontopserves orlateburns off, afternoon. Anoccasionally are clearest inthelate morning,after thehaze US arms.The360-degree viewsfromthetop foritsconstructiontobuy the moneyused atthe Americans,whohadgiven Nasser nose the towerwasbuiltin1961asathumbto wickerwork a185m-high tube, Resembling most famouslandmarkafter thePyramids. under 6free, videoE£20; the Stadium, cleaning budget down. but thiswaschanged presumably tokeep the ing –originallyopen,tocapture naturallight, (1911–74)designedtheelegantbuild- Wassef Wissa Egyptianbasement. architect Ramses tombsitsinthe in flowingline. Mukhtar’s city kid)tolife-sized portraitsthatare studies caricatures (lookfor Giza Zoo. Hiscollected workranges fromtiny Egypt Reawakening % to the a modestgate acrosstheroad,which leads trance neartheGalaaBridge andyou’llsee performances. and & 5.30-10pmSat-Thu) 142 Leave thecomplexfromrear en- North of the Cairo Opera House andAhly North of OperaHouse theCairo basement! Museum ofIslamicCeramics KhalilMuseumMr &MrsMahmoud MukhtarMahmoud Museum Agricultural Museum have theplacestoyourself. The coolest: known gems–onesthatrequire halfanhourortwo,ratherthanalifetime. Andyou’llalways The mammothEgyptian Museumgetsallthefanfare, butthecityalsoholdsanumberoflesser- MUSEUMS: THEBESTOFREST house asthesetting. 2735 2519;E£5; 2735 7187; Sharia el-Borg;admissionE£60,children2735 7187;Sharia AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights Mahmoud Mukhtar Museum Museum Mukhtar Mahmoud Cairo Tower Cairo h host rotating exhibits hostrotating h 10am-1.30pm &5-10pmTue-Sun) monumentoutsidethe Ibn al-Balad, 8am-midnight) ( below ) Sofrozenintime,thiswholemuseumshouldbeamuseum. (Burg Misr; Map Map (Burg Misr; p148 ; midan

( below ) Elegantsculpture, atombinthe elegantbuilding–andthere’s even ( p140 uncrowdeddisplaysandagorgeous ) Simplybeautiful,withattractive, isthecity’s aspunky Mp p148; (Map andthe ( opposite thoughtyou’dseeaPicasso) Never inCairo,didyou? . Agouza (Map pp144–5 ). Knownas Sharia Bridge in el-Niljustnorthof Zamalek river intheformof the Suleiman Abaza and Sharia Libnan. ( p166 ), bars andupscaleshoppingonSharia attractions here are some goodrestaurants concrete stimulating,themain andtraffic ritziest.Unless youhappentofind Cairo’s of are somesections Mohandiseen though during theyears of Sadat’sopen-doorpolicy– bastions, hometofamilieswhomadegood Thethree districtsremainclasses. middle-class Egypt’sated tohouse emerging professional AgouzaMohandiseen, andDoqqiwere cre- that shotupduringthe1960sand1970swhen buildings hemmed inonallsidesbymidrise from thecorniche inAgouza, butit’snow isstillthere, back Pyramids. Thehospital set baksheesh you’rebaksheesh to the expected todispense ridiculously cheap bythe admission isoffset bit spooky,it’sa true hallof wonders. The and pinned toaboard.Dustyand stuffed scented birdinEgypt wing,every hasbeen with waxcucurbits,andinonemothball- aretraditional weddings,glasscases packed onwards, andsomuch more: dioramasdepict agriculture inEgypt, fromPharaonic times tell youallyou’ve wanted ever toknowabout it. Spread over buildings, thedisplays several sion 10pt,camera20pt; p148; (Map It may sounddull,butthe on the Nile. chronicled inNaguibMahfouz’ novel viving residences stillhave abohemian air,as music hallsandbordellos.Many of thesur- During the1930ssomeboatswere casinos, lined theNileallwayfromGizatoImbaba. ya ARCLUA MUSEUM AGRICULTURAL s, these floatingtwo-storeys, these structures once What littlehistorythere isfloatsonthe % 3761 6785; Sharia Wizaratal-Ziraa,Doqqi;admis- 3761 6785;Sharia h 9am-2pm Tue-Sun) houseboats Agricultural Museum Agricultural lonelyplanet.com moored off is farfrom dahabiy- Adrift Adrift

CAIRO 143 Giza Giza 7.30am- h (Map p150 ; adult/student E£50/25;

and realise that the sandy mound that’s that the sandy and realise mound that’s PRACTICALITIES PRACTICALITIES of Nazlet as-Samaan. Most independent visi- of from Pyramids Rd, as this is where enter tors the bus and minibus from Downtown stop. Follow the road up from the roundabout to- anyone wards the Pyramids and firmly ignore ). Continue p146 who tries to distract you (see waters would reach each year (a superb model each would reach waters all this Sir pyramids illustrates the Abu of Museum). the Egyptian on the 1st floor of a constant visible The complex also provided the gods, as power of the eternal of reminder for the pharaoh power of well as the absolute was built. whom it to visit the a shock It can be a bit of Plateau 4pm) in home to the pyramids is actually plonked city suburb of the congested the middle of two entrances: one via a con- are There Giza. al-Haram) Pyramids Rd (Sharia tinuation of Khufu, Pyramid of the Great at the foot of and another below the Sphinx, in the village a fear of it, that led the ancient Egyptians it, that led the ancient Egyptians of a fear as the mausoleums incredible to build such pyramids. Rather eter- it was their belief in to be at one with the and their desire nal life the gods, was the son of cosmos. The pharaoh to conduct the gods’ but it was also his role Set to his people. powers between the earth the worlds mortaland the sky, connecting in honoured and divine, he was therefore in death. The pyramid and worshipped life an individual. A was a fitting tomb for such pyramid to each attached funerary temple after to be worshipped allowed the pharaoh to offerings his demise, with daily rounds of causeway sustain his soul. A long covered to a ‘valley the funerary temple connected the flood built on the quayside, where temple’ tures has become a ‘science’ in its own right in its a ‘science’ has become – tures to the carvingpoint the of and placement the and argue the millimetre, to stones, precise the structures’ significance of numerological as evidencedimensions that the Pyramids the devil by angels, variously constructed were easy to from another planet. It’s or visitors laugh seemingly but ideas, at such out-there and you’ll see Plateau visit the Giza why so awesome structures many people believe such origins. unearthly could only have COMPLEX AS FUNERARY THE PYRAMIDS It was neither an obsessionnor with death,

in- (Map CAIRO •• Sights Mr & Mrs Mahmoud Khalil Museum 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am-3pm holidays) 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 3338 9720; www.mkm.gov.eg; 1 Sharia Kafour, 3338 9720; www.mkm.gov.eg; h

% But despite the evidence,But despite some still won’t Centuries of research have given us parts given have Centuries research of

Pyramidologists – for the study of the struc- Pyramidologists – for the study of accept that the ancient Egyptians were ca- were accept that the ancient Egyptians astonishing achievements. such pable of the pharaoh’s tomb. The Pyramids can almost the pharaoh’s scheme, be seen as an ancient job-creation making it easier to also with the flood waters the site. transport building stone to same farmers could have been redeployed by been redeployed could have same farmers to work on bureaucracy the highly structured of Egyptian farmers. During the annual flood farmers. Egyptian of the their fields, season, when the Nile covered workers were not the slaves of Hollywood Hollywood of not the slaves were workers tradition, but a highly workforce organised facilities. Ongoing excavations on the Giza facilities. Ongoing excavations evidence that the more providing are Plateau builders’ settlement, complete with areas settlement, with areas complete builders’ food production and medical for large-scale of workers tens-of-thousands workers strong. This of a pyramid- of by the discovery is supported tion. We know they were massive tombs con- massive tion. We know they were by teams the pharaohs of on the orders structed of the answer to this double-barrelled ques- the answer to this double-barrelled of the millennia. Their extraordinary shape, im- Their extraordinary shape, the millennia. a moot bulk are and sheer peccable geometry and why?’ we built, question: ‘How were other six ancient wonders and living up to all other six ancient wonders on them over the hype that has been lavished the World, the Pyramids of Giza just sat there – Giza just sat there the World, the Pyramids of both outliving the for 4000 years, as they have Pyramids of Giza Pyramids of Giza of Wonders the New Amid all the hype about Cairo Sheraton. The paintings are housed Khalil’s in former The paintings are Sadat. by President over taken villa, later the walk south of minutes’ It’s just a few Lautrec, Manet, Monet and Pissarro. There There Monet and Pissarro. Lautrec, Manet, and a Picasso. also some Rubens, Sisleys are cludes sculptures by Rodin and paintings by by Rodin and paintings by cludes sculptures Gauguin, Toulouse- Delacroix, of the likes Doqqi; admission with ID card or passportDoqqi; admission with ID card or only, adult/student E£25/12; wonderful p148 ; of the Middle East’s finest collections of the Middle East’scollections of finest of The European work. 19th- and 20th-century A noted politician during the 1940s, the 1940s, politician during A noted Khalil amassed Mahmoud one Mohammed Doqqi metro station. Doqqi MUSEUM KHALIL MR & MRS MAHMOUD ‘guides’ – they hold the keys to the best rooms, best rooms, to the the keys – they hold ‘guides’ the 1km from It’s about know it. and they lonelyplanet.com CAIRO 144 99

Mahmoud MOHANDISEEN, AGOUZA&ZAMALEK Libnan Azmy 17 AR • MhnienAoz aae CAIRO ••MohandiseenAgouza &Zamalek 14

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25 M 43 a (1km) - Umm Kolthum El-Nil soun 78 l Has 98 y Doqqi To A Lotf 82 13 lonelyplanet.com 70 CAIRO the plateau itself, adjacenttotheticketthe plateau itself, office Sphinx, aswell inavery dodgytraileron forbidden. strictly 20th centuries,is dangerous andisnow must forEuropeanvisitors in the 19thand openings. Pyramid which usuallypostsnewsabout tomband Hawass’antiquities director website, DrZahi you couldcheck www.guardians.net/hawass, tors, few every rotating years). visiting, Before Pyramids (twoof thethree are open tovisi- andtheinteriors Museum ofBarque the to your right. rary ticket office (anunofficial-looking hut) along thetarmacked road,up tothetempo- 146 Gabalaya ParkEntrance...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Fun Planet...... (see84) Aristocrat...... Zamalek Center...... Thomas Cook...... (see13) Spanish Embassy...... Newsstand...... (see 42) Netherlands Embassy...... Lebanese Embassy...... Istituto ItalianodiCultura...... Great CairoLibrary...... CulturalCooperation...... Diwan...... Bookshop...... Atlas ZamalekHotel...... Zamalek Bookshop...... Telephone Centrale...... Sigma Net...... Post Office...... Newsstand...... Newsstand...... Netherlands-Flemish Institute.... Libyan Embassy...... Irish Embassy...... HSBC Bank...... German Embassy...... British Council&Library...... Australian Embassy...... As-Salam InternationalHospital.. International Language Egyptian CentreforInternational American UniversityinCairo hmsCo...... B3 Thomas Cook...... Gabalaya Park&Aquarium...... All SaintsAnglicanCathedral..... Travco...... Kenyan Embassy...... Institute...... Danish Embassy...... Citibank...... Banque Misr(ATM)...... Arab GroupforExchangeForex.. Al-Ezaby Pharmacy...... (see84) Bathrooms are ofBathrooms atthecafé thebase the Note thatclimbingthePyramids,a There are extraentrycharges fortheSolar AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights 21 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E4 E3 A5 F4 E3 A2 E3 F2 E5 E3 F4 E4 F4 D4 E5 G3 A5 E2 E2 E4 E4 B4 E3 F4 E3 E3 F4 E3 F3 E2 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 The Bakery...... Mandarine Koueider...... La Mezzaluna...... Emara Hatial-Gish...... Pension Zamalek...... DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Samia AlloubaDance&Fitness Karim FrancisArtGallery...... (see75) Sequoia...... Sekem...... Samakmak...... Sabai Sabai...... Metro Supermarket...... (see2) Maison Thomas...... (see69) L'Aubergine...... Kushari...... Didos AlDente...... Dar ElAmar...... Crave...... Chili's...... Cedars...... Baraka Takeaway...... Alfa Market...... Al-Omda...... Abou El-Sid...... President Hotel...... Mayfair Hotel...... Hotel Longchamps...... Golden TulipFlamencoHotel.... Cairo Marriott...... Zamalek ArtGallery...... Centre...... National Circus...... Museum ofIslamicCeramics..... Kalimat...... Deals...... Coffee Roastery...... Cilantro...... Cilantro...... Arabica Café...... At-Tabei ad-Dumyati...... has cutdown thenumber of touts, camel wall, razorwire oncamelback– andsentries sive campaign –involvingavery concrete tall donkey. a was probablythere offering themarideon tourists sincetheywere built,andalocal enon. ThePyramidshave attracting been remember thatit’snotamodernphenom- at thePyramidsisintense. Butithelpsto cries of ‘Buypostcards?’–thetouristscene all toasoundtrackof gargling camelsand legions of visitors partof fromevery theglobe– of armiesofWith battalions buses, toutsand THE HASSLE max). 50pt for theGreat Pyramid(paythe‘attendant’ Also, it used tobe worse. Now anaggres-Also, itused 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 72 71 70 69 68 F4 F1 F3 B2 F3 E3 F4 F4 E3 C3 E2 G6 E2 G6 A5 F3 B5 E3 C4 F4 E2 E4 F4 E3 E2 F4 F3 A5 D4 F4 B6 F4 E3 E3 F4 F2 Tao Gallery...... Orange Square...... Noubi Nabil...... Nostalgia...... Nomad...... Nomad...... (see 42) Mounaya...... Mix &Match...... Mix &Match...... Makan...... Cairo JazzClub...... Leaf...... The CoffeeBean&Tea Sangria...... (see 80) L'Aubergine...... (see 60) TRANSPORT Egypt CraftCenter/FairTrade SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT Sami Amin...... Salem...... Mom &Me...... Mobaco ...... Loft...... Home &Beyond...... (see100) Friction...... Egypt...... E3 Dina Maghawry...... (see88) Attara Ahlal-Beit...... Arkadia Mall...... Nile Maxim...... El SawyCultureWheel...... Absolute...... Tornado...... Simonds...... Marriott GardenCafé...... La Bodega...... Euro Deli...... Deals...... Lufthansa...... Wikalat al-Balah...... Wady CraftShop...... (see32) Toy RUs...... (see84) lonelyplanet.com 103 102 101 100 78 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 77 76 75 74 73 E3 F4 F4 F4 E2 B5 F4 H5 F2 E3 A4 E3 F4 F4 G5 F2 E3 F3 F4 F3 E2 F4 F2 F4 G1 G4 E3 D3 G2 C5 CAIRO 147 and 3385 3832)

(Map p150 ; adult/ %

( MG , near the coach park, are both park, are , near the coach stood 146m high when it was Great of Khufu Pyramid 3385 0531) % ( As you continue through the Great Gallery, you continue through the Great As There isn’t much to see isn’t much inside the pyramid, There the entrance, on the north face, a pas- Past Tickets, sold from a kiosk in front and from a kiosk in front and sold Tickets,

and good guides; his place can be tricky to be tricky his place can guides; and good notice how precisely the blocks in the ceiling the blocks in the ceiling notice how precisely Cairo for the day. Note that only Egyptian Cairo that only Egyptian for the day. Note not and cameras are accepted, pounds are allowed into the pyramid – you must sur- them to the guards at the entrance, render returning who will ask for baksheesh before fine). is them (E£1 climbing through the but the experience of – though is unforgettable ancient structure of if you suffer the tiniest degree impossible The elderly and unfit should claustrophobia. steep. very is the climb, as it not attempt tomb (usually descends to an unfinished sage closed) 100m along and 30m deep about in this, about the bedrock. Before you reach 1.3m the entrance, another passage, 20m after high 40m to and 1m wide, ascends for about area Gallery, an impressive the Great reach 47m long and 8.5m high. the At the start of gallery, a small horizontal leads into passage Queen’s Chamber. the so-called GREAT PYRAMID OF KHUFU (CHEOPS) OF KHUFU (CHEOPS) PYRAMID GREAT in Giza and the largest The oldest pyramid in the Egypt, blocks, reckoned 2.3 million limestone About used in to weigh were about 2.5 tonnes each, the construction. the pyramid, slightly to the east (city side) of on sale to 300 per day: 150 start- limited are ing at 7.30am and 150 at 1pm. During the need you’ll probably to queue early, winter especially on Wednesday and Thursday, when tour groups from the Red Sea visit find: head down the street by the Sphinx poster Sphinx poster by the street down the find: head gathered, are horses where off the main square as the to the Sphinx Club, or ask for directions it. just behind stables are AA Expectdecent as well. E£35 per to pay around the ride, and the money after over hour (hand or E£10), an additional E£5 tip your guide or you’ll ticket Pyramids site your and keep Moonlight rides to enter. again be charged outing, a favourite around the Pyramids are you can’t ride very but under new regulations, 6pm. after close to the site completed around 2570 BC.completed 46 windy After by 9m. centuries, its height been has reduced student E£100/50) , owned by Naser 3382 0435) CAIRO •• Sights % (

NB If you’re particularly interested in riding, particularly interested If you’re Tourism authorities have set ‘official’ set ‘official’ Tourism authorities have opinion holds that the best stables near the Sphinx are be off on your own in the desert with the Pyramids as a background. General expat Pyramids. Once you’re mounted, you will you will mounted, Pyramids. Once you’re office by the Mena House and complain (E£20 office by the Mena for a quick trot around or E£25 is a fair fee photo op). and stables the village hiring a horse from one of taking option than is a far better one at the more than agreed before you’re let down – you’re before than agreed more tourist police, or go to the the nearest call over apologetic shrug, ‘you’re still expected to bar- still expected ‘you’re shrug, apologetic over- be a little wary of gain’. Women should trying to clamber up friendly camel-owners choose to behind them, and everyoneshould ride only healthy-looking animals. If you are to pay ever on a camel – asked held hostage prices (E£35 per hour for camels, horses and prices (E£35 per hour for camels, horses said officer but, as one horse-carts), with an extraordinary amount of hassle the horse- extraordinary amount of to ignore tourists, it’s tempting give owners however, distance the them completely; be- on pyramids is a lot to cover tween the three foot, so the service you one, should is a real be interested. camels. There’s also a smaller stable area by stable also a smaller area camels. There’s House the Considering entrance. the Mena The blocks just behind and filled with milling horses trance are the Sphinx-side en- CAMELS & HORSES & HORSES CAMELS camel rides and avoid the rogue antiquities the rogue antiquities camel rides and avoid into the ‘ruin’ you cop who will try to usher police station. the old of teau, you just have to negotiate with guys for with guys for to negotiate you just have teau, out a ticket. Note that genuine tickets have have tickets that genuine Note out a ticket. everyone until a hologram seal, and ignore one in your hands. Once on the pla- you get entrance’ is near their stables, or suggest that entrance’ is near their stables,that or suggest with- you into the Pyramids area they can get men might try to jump in with you to explain men might to explain try to jump in with you ahead is closedthat the road the best – and is on horse- way to proceed, conveniently, back. They might you the ‘walk-in also tell the Pyramids. While your taxi or minibus While your taxithe Pyramids. or minibus trafficis stopped in Rd, young on Pyramids ple of Nazlet as-Samaan still rely on renting on renting still rely Nazlet as-Samaan ple of the line of and camels for a living, horses from further away has just moved skirmish drivers and other hustlers on the plateau plateau on the other hustlers and drivers itself. is that, because bad news The the peo- lonelyplanet.com Breesh, who’s praised for his healthy steeds Breesh, CAIRO 148 To Mohandiseen DOQQI, GIZA&GEZIRA Nadi University Cairo

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i y Bolivar Simon Midan 2 a Latin America Qasr al-Ainy Al-Saraya al-Ku bra 33 15 CAIRO C2 B3 B3 A3 B6 A4 D4 B3 D2 C4 A3 D4 149 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 Pyramid Pyramid seems seems Khafre’s funerary and the flagged paving of the of paving and the flagged Revolving Restaurant Lounge..(see 29) Revolving Restaurant ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING TRANSPORT Dok Dok Felucca Point...... 39) EgyptAir...... (see EgyptAir...... Felucca Mooring Point...... Hard Rock Café...... Hard Rock Nomad...... Topkapi...... Cairo Opera House...... Cinema...... Cairo Sheraton Casablanca...... Cinema Tahrir...... Club 35...... 29) Good News Grand Hyatt...... (see 28) Beymen...... (see Nagada...... 29) Nomad...... (see B6 B6 D3 A4 C2 C2 C3 D5 B4 C2 D4 C4 B5 (Map ; p150 adult/student E£25/15)

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 (Map p150 ) Back outside, to the east of the pyramid, Back of outside, to the east The chambers and passageways of this this passageways of and The chambers There are plans to move the boat to the plans to move are There are the substantial remains of of the substantial remains are temple of Khafre his father, Khufu. At just than that of larger 136m high, it’s not, but it stands on higher ground and its peak is still capped with a pyr- limestone casing. Originally all three totally encasedamids were with polished made them would have stone, which white gleam in the sun. Over the centuries, this casing has been for use stripped in palaces inner-core and mosques, exposing the softer the elements. stones to almost as but are Pyramid, those in the Great The entrance descends into a claustrophobic. to the burial cham- and then across passage granite large still containsber, which Khafre’s sold at the kiosk in are sarcophagus. Tickets the pyramid. front of 1200 pieces of wood and encased in a glass 1200 pieces of from the museum it from damage to protect museum to the must help elements. Visitors footwear protective this process by donning sand out. to keep Museum whenevernearby Grand Egyptian in 2010. it opens – perhaps (CHEPHREN) OF KHAFRE PYRAMID Pyramid, the the Great Southwest of particular pyramid are less elaborate than than less elaborate particular pyramid are causeway that provided access from the Nile causeway that provided the tomb. to SLEEPING EATING DRINKING Mr & Mrs Mahmoud Khalil Mr & Mrs Mahmoud Egyptian Museum of Modern Palace of Arts...... C2 Fish Market...... La Gourmandise...... Taboula...... Cilantro...... Formal Garden...... Arts Centre...... Hanager Museum... Mahmoud Mukhtar Manial Palace Museum...... Museum...... Art...... Four Seasons at Nile Plaza...... Grand Hyatt...... 29) El Sakya...... (see El-Mashrabiah...... Five pits near . Five B5 A3 D3 D3 A2 C2 A6 B5 D2 C2 D3 A4 B6 A4 B3 A4 B5 D4 B3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 (Map p150 ; adult/student E£40/20;

CAIRO •• Sights 9am-4pm Oct-May, 9am-5pm Jun-Sep) One of these ancient cedar-wood vessels, vessels, theseancient cedar-wood One of Outside, on the eastern side of the pyramid, the pyramid, of side Outside, on the eastern INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Egyptian Student Travel Services..Egyptian Student C5 Formal Garden...... Cairo Tower...... Cairo Zoo...... Cairo Zoo Entrance...... Agricultural Museum...... Syrian Embassy...... UK Embassy...... Western Union...... Jordanian Embassy...... Saudi Arabian Embassy...... Iranian Embassy...... Israeli Embassy...... Italian Embassy...... French Embassy...... Goethe Institut...... Instituto Cervantes...... Citibank...... Ethiopian Embassy...... Anglo-American Hospital...... Anglo-American earthed in 1954. It was carefully restored from restored earthed in 1954. It was carefully possibly the oldest boat in existence, was un- the oldest boat in existence, possibly to provide transport for the pharaoh in the for the pharaoh transport to provide next world. causeway and into the tomb chamber. The causeway and into the tomb chamber. the pyramid then buried around barques were dead pharaoh across the Nile to the valley Nile to the valley across the dead pharaoh it was brought up the from where temple, the Great Pyramid of Khufu contained Pyramid of the the Great may which solar barques (boats), pharaoh’s the been the mummy of used to convey have Solar Barque Museum h SOLAR BARQUE MUSEUM SOLAR BARQUE MUSEUM Pyramid is the fascinating the Great South of but they’re quite steamy inside. steamy quite but they’re the Queens’ Pyramids, the tombs of Khufu’sthe Queens’ Pyramids, the tombs of them, some of You can enter and sisters. wives three small structures some 20m high resem- small structures three These rubble. are ble pyramid-shaped piles of contemplate the tremendous weight sus- the tremendous contemplate you. pended above ventilation system (built into two ancient air into two ancient air (built system ventilation easier as you shafts) will help you breathe the chamber. Good airflow from the modern airflow from the modern Good the chamber. tonnes. Above these slabs, four more slabs slabs these slabs, four more tonnes. Above to designed are separated by gaps which are the enormous weight away from distribute blocks. The ceiling itself consists of nine huge nine huge blocks. The ceiling itself consists of than 400 weigh which more granite, slabs of fit together. In the 10m-long King’s Chamber 10m-long King’s Chamber In the fit together. granite red of built at the end, the walls are lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Terror), the feline manwasdubbed theSphinx one had imagined. personality intheflesh: he’ssmallerthan TV theSphinxislike a meeting diary thatseeing whonoted inhis AlanBennett, playwright the first time,manyvisitors agree withEnglish itfor intriguing asitsappearance. Onseeing ing itslong-forgotten is almostas purpose Sphinx Legends and superstitions abound aboutthe THE SPHINX ifyou excused skip it. mid, andit’salongslogouthere –you’re Visitors are nolonger allowedinsidethepyra- the ruinsof his of theexcavatedthe pyramidyou’llsee remains months,eight having achieved little. Outside the pyramidinAD1186.He gave upafter Saladin’s sonMalek Abdel Azizto dismantle the northfaceisresult of anattempt by p150 ) isthesmallestof thetrio. Agashin At 62m(originally66.5m),this PYRAMID OFMENKAURE (MYCERINUS) 150 THE GIZAPLATEAU Menkaure’s funerary temple funerarytemple Menkaure’s Known inArabic asAbu al-Hol (Father of Eastern Cemetery...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Pyramid ofMenkaure Pyramid ofKhafre Menkaure's Valley D1 Menkaure's Funerary Mena HouseGolfCourse.. Great PyramidofKhufu Sound-&-Light Ticket Sound-&-Light Pyramid ofQueen Ticket Office...... Office...... Auditorium...... Solar BarquePits...... Solar BarqueMuseum..... Queen's Pyramids...... Queen's Pyramids...... Temple...... Temple...... Tourist Police...... Pyramids TouristOffice...... Lehnert &Landrock...... CIB (ATM)...... Banque duCaire...... Stables...... Hetepheres...... (Mycerinus)...... Khafre's ValleyTemple...... Khafre's FuneraryTemple.. (Cheops)...... Ticket Office...... Sphinx...... (Chephren)...... AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights (Map p150 ), andthemystery surround- valley temple 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B3 B2 C3 B3 D3 C2 C2 D2 C1 C1 D3 C1 C1 D3 C1 C1 D3 D3 D3 C2 C2 B3 C2 C2 ikt o ra yai. C2 Tickets forPyramidsof Tickets forGreatPyramid.. Western Cemetery...... Tomb ofKhentkawes...... Khafre...... Tomb ofSeshemnuferIV.. and, furthereast, , lessexcavated. Pyramid 14 17 (Map 11 27 30 29 28 27 26 13 B2 C2 C3 B2 30 the mythicalwinged monster withawoman’s by theancientGreeks itresembled because sped upthe decayratherthan haltingit.The cession of restoration attempts unfortunately groundwater are thelikeliest Asuc- causes. away fromtheinside; pollutionandrising stone equivalentof cancerandisbeingeaten theproblems: themonumentissuffering daystheSphinxhaspotentially greaterThese inLondon. on displayintheBritishMuseum off by19th-centuryadventurers andisnow Partthe deed. of thefallenbeardwas carted somestilllikealthough toblameNapoleonfor the11th and 15thcenturies, time between framed bythe reign, soitprobably portrayshis features, duringthispharaoh’s was mostlikely carved of hasshownthatit Khafre; geological survey at thebottomof to thePyramid thecauseway tail.) little hasa anyone unabletoanswerthem.(Iteven riddlesandkilled head andlion’sbodywhoset travellers, washammered thenose some- off worn only by royalty).

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151 Wissa Wassef Art Centre cost only E£8, but many should . The mud-brick complex is the . The mud-brick 3381 5746; www.wissa-wassef-arts.com; Saqqara Rd; 10am-5pm) By far the most straightforward way to go Returning to Cairo, from ei- taxis leaving Microbuses also go from Midan Abdel Microbuses also go from Midan Abdel % half-developed farmland. The main green (er, only) attraction is ( h Ramses architect work of Wissa Wassef; it won traditional Khan prize for its refined an Aga ther entrance will try for at least E£40, so ther entrance will try for at least E£40, so hard – or else you’ll need walk to bargain a less down Pyramids Rd until you encounter the bus. or just take voracious driver, Around the Pyramids include the two to the Pyramids often Tours Canal, which communities on the Maryutia the pla- runs north–south about 1.5km east of One is worth your time, perhaps eventeau. an so much. independent trip. The other, not HARRANIYYA Pyramids Canal south of Along the Maryutia that several villages is one of Rd, Harraniyya of into one long stretch now blurred have Moniem Riad, near the Ramses Hilton; again, and somebody will point just ask for ‘Haram’ is The fare vehicles. you to the right line of offE£1.50 and you’ll be dropped about 250m House (also Oberoi hotel the Mena short of 357 terminate). buses 355 and where taxi from the rank on is in a yellow metered the same E£20, It’s usually about Midan Tahrir. a black-and- price you’d be lucky to bargain air- down to – plus you get driver white-cab traffic the city-centre conditioning. Avoiding by taking the metro to the Giza stop (E£1) a taxi doesn’t to work so well; from there, the Pyramids caught tac- on to this cost-saving have drivers prices. outrageous tic and quickly quote GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE to the from Heliopolis runs Bus 355/357 central CairoPyramids via every 20 minutes. island) from the road (not the It picks up Moniem at Midan Abdel under the overpass a to ask sign so you’ll have no Riad. There’s to stand. Belocal where as you’ll prob- alert, passes the bus down. It also to flag ably have can usually be flagged and through Tahrir, near the north- down from the bus shelter for pp118–19 see metro stairs; western Map one, with is a white the exact position. The bus E£2 and the costs A ticket on its side. ‘CTA’ 45 minutes. about trip takes , (tea (Map (Map café tomb of 6.30pm, 7.30pm & western cemetery h 3386 3469; www.egyptsandl eastern cemetery boasts an outdoor ter- boasts an outdoor % ( CAIRO •• Sights (Map p150 ), just south of the ), just south of p150 (Map The Tomb of Iasen, in the The Tomb of Just below the Sphinx an expensive Sphinx an expensive Just below the Monday English French Spanish Day Monday English French English Tuesday Italian Show 1 Wednesday English French Thursday Japanese English French Show 2 French Friday English German Arabic - Russian Saturday English Spanish Sunday German Show 3 French Italian but check the website for the latest: for the website but check discount, you may be able to negotiate one. discount, you may be able to negotiate writing, as follows at the time of were Schedules but it’s neat to see Pyramids so dramati- the no student officially cally lit. Though there’s .com; adult/child 7-12 years E£60/30; 8.30pm winter, 8.30pm, 9.30pm & 10.30pm summer & Ramadan) The Sphinx narrates the somewhat cheesy the somewhat narrates The Sphinx sound-and-light show SOUND-&-LIGHT SHOW SOUND-&-LIGHT SHOW Seshemnufer IV you chamber Pyramid, also has a burial Great down into. can climb and wall paintings that offer a glimpse of daily a glimpse of and wall paintings that offer during the Old Kingdom. The life (Map p150 ), contains interesting inscriptions inscriptions ), contains interesting p150 (Map in a grid pattern. Most tombs are closed to closed to Most tombs are in a grid pattern. Qar, Idu and Queen the public, but those of III, in the Meresankh Private cemeteries consisting of several rows several rows of consisting cemeteries Private around the Pyramids organised tombs are of can be hazardous. can CEMETERIES accessible, although it can some- ), are p150 times be difficult to find the guard who has the keys. down to the burial chambers, but the descent down to the burial chambers, Menkaure’s powerful daughter. The tomb is powerful daughter. Menkaure’s building cut into a small hill. A a rectangular room leads the chapel corridor at the back of (Map p150 ), opposite the Great Pyramid and the Great ), opposite p150 (Map causeway, is the tomb of Khafre’s south of TOMB OF KHENTKAWES TOMB OF KHENTKAWES structure but imposing visited This rarely outside the site, but as long as you have your but as long as you have site, outside the and come you leave the guards will let ticket, in again. back race and truly amazing view. It’s technically amazing view. It’s technically race and truly Sphinx’ shiny white paws are the result of the of result the paws are white shiny Sphinx’ effort. recent most lonelyplanet.com & soda E£15, fresh juice E£20) & soda E£15, fresh CAIRO which the stands can bevery lively here. satellite citiesfurthereast. Weekend nights become ‘downtown’ forpeoplelivingindull Egyptians thinksotoo, asHeliopolis has wander–andmanyplace foranevening’s its trees and outdoor cafés,it’sapleasant laxed, almost Mediterranean air. Withall dishes, butthearea stillhas are-lite-TV apartment buildingsfestooned withsatel- the graceful villaswiththe spacesbetween Since the1950s,overcrowding hasfilledin the Europeanvisionof the Orientinstone. balconies, grandarcadesandterraces, it’s Moorish-style buildingswithdarkwood whoruledEgypt.officials Withwhitewashed tury asa‘gardencity’,hometothecolonial conceived thedistrictinearly20thcen- gems industrialist of NorthAfrica. ABelgian Map p153 ) wouldbeconsidered oneof the Heliopolis or‘NewCairo’; (Misral-Gedida, aloneasatowninitsownright,to stand It’s onlyasuburbof butwere Cairo, it Heliopolis about 5.5km,or15 minutes, along. the canalfromPyramidsRd–village is flag downamicrobus (E£1)headingnorthon cancels outtheminorsavings. Youcouldalso price of acabride(E£15fromthe Pyramids), poverty adjacenttoanewstripmall,plusthe of source’. Butthedismalsetting semirural shopping destination,tobuy‘direct fromthe KerdassaCairo, isoften touted asaninsider biyya As thesourceof manyof thescarves, KERDASSA west sideof the road. minutes. Thecentre isby the canalon ‘Harraniyya’ sign,after about3.5km,or10 theblue Saqqara andget whenyousee off (E£10) fromPyramidsRdinthedirection of and refreshingly green. The placehasthefeeling of –quiet asanctuary and batikfabric,donetoequallygoodeffect. class, like paintingsinwool.There’s pottery heremuseum are inacompletely different andondisplayinthe shops; theonesforsale areCrude imitations insouvenir standard distinctive depictingruralscenes. tapestries Friday)arestudios (closed knownfortheir whoworkherestyle. Theartisans inopen 152 The mainstreet isSharia al-Ahram, on To get here, take amicrobus (E£1)ortaxi AR • Sgt CAIRO ••Sights s andweavings soldinthebazaars of Uruba Palace Mp p153), (Map gala- October WarPanorama October Built withhelpfromNorthKorean artists,the still very much off-limits. heavy-metal fans.Adecadelater, theruinis they were a bunch of upper-class teenage allegedly holdingritualshere –turnedout to acitywidepanicin1997about ‘Satanists’ lookofThe fantastical theplacecontributed adorningtheexterior.elephants andserpents withBuddhas, geishas,Wat inCambodia, temple modelled onthetemples of Angkor Map(Qasr al-Baron; p153 ), aHindu-style you can’tmiss theextraordinary is buried here. Empain, themanwhofoundedHeliopolis, the ‘jellymould’bylocalexpats.Baron sion of famous AyaSofya, Istanbul’s dubbed the ing theworldwars. Attheendof thestreet, popular watering holeforAlliedsoldiers dur- (Map p153 ), asoldHeliopolis anda itself tecture), istheopen-aircafeteria archi- (detour leftforsomefantastic Laqqany tersection withthesplendidSharia Ibrahim the street. Fromthepalace,atfirst in- –ashortoffices commute, ashelives justup andnowMubarak’sKing AlbertIof Belgium once agrandhotel gracedbythelikes of Abdel Map Moniem Riad(see pp118–19 ). Or take airport bus356(E£2)fromMidan the linebranches, justbefore MidanRoxy. but often where off faster thanthebus.Get Map(see p122 ). They’re alittlerattletrap, Heliopolis fromjustnorthof MidanRamses trams(25pt,30to40minutes) runtoCairo’s THERE&AWAYGETTING or get a taxi. take oneof alongSharia thebuses al-Uruba Palace,the Baron’s road;walk, on thesame The exhibitionisabout 2.5kmsouthwestof was returned bynegotiationsixyears later. accepted a UN-brokered cease-fire, andSinai Bothsides successful Israelicounterattacks. counts theheroicvictories,butskipsover the (inArabic only)re-a stirringcommentary while LineontheSuezCanal, of Lev theBar rama depictstheEgyptian forcesbreaching Alargepropaganda effort. 3Dmuralanddio- 1973 ‘victory’over Israel,isanextraordinary 12.20pm, 6pm&7.30pmWed-Mon) al-Uruba;admissionE£10; Sharia WARPANORAMAOCTOBER South onSharia al-Uruba(AirportRd), Basilica (Map p153 ) isaminiature ver- Mp pp110-11; (Map h , amemorialtothe shows 9.30am,11am, lonelyplanet.com Baron’s Palace % Amphitrion Amphitrion 2402 2317;

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2794 1686; www.ciccairo.com; 20 Sharia Safeya 2794 1686; www.ciccairo.com;

HELIOPOLIS To Central To Cairo (8km) Sat-Thu) Off Sharia MahmoudSat-Thu) Bassiouni, as much a by Cairo’s clubhouse as an exhibition space, frequented old guard. art-world Contemporary Image Collective Some options: Cairo Atelier galleries, the city’s cultural centres ( p112 ) ) p112 ( galleries, the city’s cultural centres exhibitions too. mount interesting often Karim al-Dawla, Downtown; % Zaghloul, Mounira; With a fresh generation of artists and new of generation With a fresh and active media, Cairo’s art scene is more than it ever has been.diverse In addition to Art Galleries Art Galleries check check Today Egypt ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES around town, activities details of For more Get off outside the Heliopolis Club (the Club (the Get off outside the Heliopolis with tram the street reaching stop after first tracks). Trams and buses usually run every 20 minutes. The ride takes between 30 and 45 minutes. betweenThe ride takes 30 and 45 minutes. lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Amr) Fitness Centre group courses –try city’s gymsand health clubswillorganise together) belly-dancing lessons.Someof the will give you(oragroup, ifyoucanget one ment, where eithersheoroneof herprotégés She runsasmallstudioinherDoqqiapart- have learnedtheircraftfromMme Hassan. hotmail.com) is inthewholeof (and,indeed, Egypt)Cairo The mostfamousbelly-dancingteacher in 154 BlyDnig Lessons Belly-Dancing Mme Raqia Hassan Mme Raqia a creative person,andtherichestforthosewithimagination. forself-expression. ButCairo isstillperhapsthemostseductive cityintheworldforportunities It hasgraduallybecomefarmore andthathasaffected conservative, people’slifestyles andop- You’ve lived here more than20years–howhasthecitychanged? best My favourite coffeehouse isjustinfrontofthegallery.It’scalledAhmedLipton.Heoffers the And anahwa? andjournalistsuseasasecondoffice. it’s theplacemostofartists That hastobeEstoril( p164 ), offShariaTalaat Harb.It’smore fortheambiencethanfood– No dodging thisone:what’syourfavourite restaurant? It’s usedbyeveryone toanswermostquestions–andavoidansweringquestions! Ya’ani What’s yourfavourite wordinEgyptian colloquialArabic? numerous individualsthatonceinhabited thecity. infrontofthezooGiza. It’savisionofpeople’sdreams,on Mukhtar) ratherthanjustthe That Mukhtar’s wouldhave tobeMahmoud What’s yourfavourite inCairo? pieceofpublicart assaults allyoursensesandintroducesyouto the intensity ofthecityallatonce. reach Ataba andtheWindsorHotel Midan ( p170 ), where theycansitandenjoyacoldbeer. It ( street Husseinthroughthemarket ofAl-Muski I’d suggestawalkfromMidan p130 ) untilthey Well, aslongpeopledon’twanttorelax… The mostinteresting walkisoften themosttaxing. Where’s thebestplacetoexperience ofhistorical thiskind backdrop? life. go aboutamodern21st-century life. This historicalbackdroptends todefineyourapproach engraved withhieroglyphs. People houses, studyinoldcolonialmansionsand squatinOttoman intoa15th-centurymosque,yousteptheir pastwithsuchease. over Walking foundationstones andpeopleliveAnd thecityconsistsofsomanyhistoricaldistricts, andmanoeuvre through technique –everyThe street humour,whichis asurvival isatheatre andevery adrama. action What doyoulove mostaboutthecity? WILLIAM WELLS inMohandiseen. AR • Atvte CAIRO ••Activities sheesha (literally, ‘Itmeans…’),whichhasnotranslationinEnglishbutcovers mostcircumstances. . Many of thecountry’sbestdancers

Director of Visual Arts, TownhouseGalleryofContemporaryDirector ( ofVisualArts, Art p153 ), establishedin1998. Mp pp144-5 ; (Map (water pipe)inDowntown,andhewelcomeseveryone.

( % Samia AlloubaDance & 3748 2338;raqiahassan@ % 3302 0572; 6 Sharia 3302 0572;6Sharia Egypt Reawakening of theQasr el-NilBridge (Map p148 ) isless justnorth form). Themooring pointinGezira ate (possibly additionalbaksheesh in liquid willappreci-people onboard; your captain E£30 perhourirrespective of thenumberof shouldcostabout aboatandcaptain haggling, Subjectto City, acrossfromtheFourSeasons. stage (Map p148 ) onthecorniche inGarden best spotforhiringistheDok landing approaches. The a smallpicnicjustassunset boat,with asupplyofcient broad-sail and beer warm dayistogooutonafelucca, Egypt’s an- One of thingstodoona themostpleasant Felucca Rides sculpture (see p142 formore lonelyplanet.com CAIRO for 155 ba’al e-kya!’) roll e-kya!’) roll . shout ‘Beeeeeeshout Feel free to walk in the street (most people to walk in the street free Feel It’s especially good for aimless, mapless good for aimless, mapless It’s especially where you can get a souvenir photo taken at at photo taken a souvenir you can get where ) p133 (Map Studio Shosha Garden City at Twilight circles that form the streets The interlocking want to maddening if you City are Garden of better, more aimless amble is to the south: take aimless amble is to the south: take more better, head- al-Azhar, Sharia the small alley behind then Park, Al-Azhar of ing in the direction head south, roughly following the old walls being excavated built by Salah ad-Din that are the park development. The tiny as part of workshops produce shoes, parquet flooring, it’s But and more. inlay boxes mother-of-pearl families on where district, also a residential down to the run baskets upper floors and junk trad- groceries, and knife-sharpeners men who (the ers bear- your general through the lanes. Keeping ings with the park to your left, you can wander all the way down to the Citadel. Near the end, Darb of you’ll wind up on the southern stretch al- to Sharia ). To loop back p135 ( al-Ahmar ), p134 al-Khayamiyya ( Azhar, go via Sharia yourself get at least a little lost in Cairo’s get yourself wind- back lanes. ing when takingdo), be considerate photos, and as open for local cues such ears your keep at least ). And p162 text, hissing (see boxed invitation or to tea once, accept a stranger’s the best places to some of Thesesoda. are a day. of the course stroll, over Islamic Cairo in the Morning at 7.30am – with tea Start early – before the khan) and watch slowly p169 Fishawi’s ( do want to work in a little up. If you wake sightseeing, a quick stroll up Bein take al- the buildings with- ) to admire p132 ( Qasreen traffic But the out the crush of and commerce. DIY CAIRO careening of impressions to first Contrary buses sidewalks, Cairo and crammed is an Really. for walking. excellent city compact, relatively districts are wandering: is level and the scenery changes the terrain quickly enough interesting. things to keep and you will never acciden- safe, are Streets tally We wander into a ‘bad’ neighbourhood. stowing the guide and let heartily encourage Hilton’s by and surrounded deep pool is large, relatively shady trees.

. 2577 2577 24hr) 7am- % h h 2pm-4am) 2736 6344; 2736 6344; h 3346 7230; % 010 568 6000; % 2728 3000; 16 Sharia % ( 2578 0444; 1113 (Map pp118-19 ; % Mena Course House Golf % (Map pp144-5 ;

(Map ; pp144-5 CAIRO •• DIY Cairo (Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5 (Map Aristocrat 3383 3222; www.oberoihotels.com; Pyramids 3383 3222; www.oberoihotels.com; (Map pp118-19 ; % Ramses Hilton Mall , beneath the Pyramids, is always busy , beneath the Pyramids,

Saray al-Gezira, Zamalek; day use E£110) The Marriott has includes use of The fee a good pool in a garden setting. and sauna. the gym Corniche el-Nil, Downtown; pool day use E£110) The [email protected]; 20 Gamiat ad-Dowal al-Arabiyya, Mohandiseen; minimum charge E£25) You’ll often have the rooftop and the price to yourself, pool here be beat. can’t Nile Hilton Muhammad Ali Sporting Club Corniche el-Nil, Sharia Saied Giza, Moneib; day use Fri & E£25/15) Major social Sat adult/child £40/25, Sun-Thu scene – a mix of expats and Egyptians – at this cool Nileside pool with beanbag chairs, beers and bikinis. Way south on the West Bank, about even Ma’adi with – a taxi the centre. will cost E£20 from Cairo Marriott Atlas Hotel Zamalek bers. Some hotels allow day use allow day Some hotels for nonguests, bers. Best options: at a price. Finding a place to cool off in the city can be Finding a place to cool off difficult.afford who can Cairenes it swim in do not admit nonmem- sporting clubs, which Swimming Swimming is a little mellower, and doubles as a bar is a little mellower, and doubles as a bar and restaurant. In Zamalek 7444; east of the RamsesHilton, Downtown; away from the city centre. The most central most central The away from the city centre. on the top floor pool halls are and snooker of the Pool and snooker are popular in Cairo. in Cairo. popular are Pool and snooker in the wealthier suburbs are venues Many details, see p147 . p147 see details, Pool & Snooker A horse Pyramids can be a ride out by the For Cairo. way to escape the clamour of great Horse Riding Horse Riding sunset) (Map ; p150 E£55; rental E£150 plus club fee Rd, Giza; green Golf Golf the by the hotel, Run desirable because the river is crowded here; here; is crowded becausedesirable the river the Shepheard captains dock opposite at the be tougher to ) tend to pp118–19 (Map Hotel bargain with. lonelyplanet.com on Friday and Saturday, so better to tee off off to tee so better on Friday and Saturday, in midweek. The course being renovated was rise. likely 2007, and prices will 2nd fl, 15 Sharia Ismail Mohammed; per hr E£22; CAIRO a (p170). bar atthe24-hourOdeonPalacethe night Hotel matter howlate you’re out,youcanwind up get upinaspirited caught sing-along.No even to Umm Kolthum–youmight devoted the Kawkab ash-Sharq café( p169 ), which is ping of belly-dancers (see p173 ). Don’tmiss somelavishsmoking andmaybeeven tip- are yourplaygroundforsnacking, Alfy andthesmallerstreets oneither side youtea. Fromherewill comeandsell Sharia perch onanyrandomplanter andsomeone wander backtoMidanOrabi, where youcan the sidealleysare justwarmingup.Then just beshutting down,whilethe atTawfiqiyyaStart Souq( p117 ), which will the airiscoolandstreets are thronged. This islesswalkingthancafé-hopping,when Downtown afterMidnight (p170). Dok felucca pier( p154 ) andNilesideTopkapi behind theFour hotel. Seasons home andthelastreal gardeninGardenCity, webbed gates, arare Turkish-style wood-front dragonsoncob- eye outforwrought-iron away!)andwindsouth.Keepyou right an concretebrutalist embassybehind Canadian shrill inthe starlings fruit trees. icues turnsawarm,glamorousgoldandthe when thedustcoatingarchitectural curl- best timetovisitisthehourbefore sundown, mansions inthiscolonial-eradistrict.The just forthesake of admiringthecrumbling get anywhere, butthey’re perfect forstrolling 156 You’ll windup,conveniently, neartheDok atthenorthend(getYou canstart the

Here’s how: behindyou–andgiving toenjoythegoodthingsaboutCairo. youmorewalking opportunity can lookmore aresident like attention expat,thusdeflecting ontothemore obvioustourists toimpossible‘pass’asanativeEven colouringallowsit,it’snext Cairene. ifyourskin Butyou HOW TOBLENDIN

Learn andusethelocalnonverbal cues(seeboxed text, p162 ). Carry acopyof Cover upyourlegs–thisgoesformenandwomen.Islamicrulesaside,Egyptians simplyhave shoes. Wearimpractical This isacity.Fashion counts. Carry yourstuffinaplasticshoppingbagorgenerictote. Nothingscreams a ‘tourist’like AR • CiofrCide CAIRO ••CairoforChildren rassed toshowyourkneesinpublic. a higherlevel ofmodesty,andit’sclearyouhaven’t beenhere longifyoudon’tfeel embar- multipocketed, extra-zippered, heavy-duty-nylonbackpackwithvisiblewater bottle. Al-Ahram Weekly –ortheArabic ahwa sheesha s in - are also worth considering. of child-oriented activitiesandthemeparks ( the mazeof al-Khalili Khan p128 ). Anumber at Giza( p143 ) andDahshur ( p206 ), aswell ( Museum p185 ), investigating thePyramids the treasures intheEgyptian of Tutankhamun pirate ona Nilefelucca ( p154 ), gawkingat Most children willenjoypretending tobea Sabbahy (AUC Press, in2006. E£70),revised Family Guide, in thecityitmaybeworthbuying much theywillenjoy.Ifyouhave afew days can Cairo beexhaustingforkids,butthere is CAIRO FORCHILDREN local kids –atthe countless kindsof lotsof camels–and meet Not faraway,children canfeed thehippos,see tours thecountry at othertimesof theyear. ally findithere duringthecooler months –it lions andtigers andlotsof glitter. You’llusu- is atraditionalcircuswithclowns, acrobats, 50; admissionE£30- el-Nil,Agouza, neartheZamalekBridge; Sharia p177 ) alsohasabigindoor fun park. will appealtoteenagers. (see Citystars Centre centre offering loadsof ridesandgames 11pm Sat-Thu &1-11pmFri) Bulaq; first3gamesE£10,eachsubsequentgameE£3-5; speakers of all ages. non-Arabic toentertain animated enough shows are inArabic, butare colourful and site EzbekiyyaGardensinDowntown.The h al-Ara’is; Map pp118-19 ; Al-Ahram, The The long-running Fun Planet h 6.30-8.15pm Thu, 10.30am-1pm Fri &Sun) 6.30-8.15pm Thu,10.30am-1pmFri box office 11am-10pm, performances 10pm-midnight) box office11am-10pm,performances National Circus ifyouwanttogodeepundercover.

(Map (Map pp144-5 Cornicheel-Nil, Mall, ; Arkadia by Lesley Lababidi and Lisa andLisa Lababidi by Lesley Cairo Zoo Cairo % is an indoor amusement isanindooramusement Mp pp144-5; (Map Cairo Puppet Theatre PuppetTheatre Cairo 2591 0954;admissionE£5;

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Abu Mu’azz museum tours At the Cairo Opera House in (www.nilegroup.net) At the Mena s (long sessions of dancing, chanting 012 313 8446; www.first24hours.com) 012 313 First Monday after Coptic Easter. Liter- Monday after Coptic Easter. First Birthday of Prophet Mohammed, zikr Fathy el-Menesy Fathy The other big saints’ festivals in Cairo The other big saints’ festivals % (

Ninth month of the Islamic calendar (begins 1 owns a well-maintained Peugeot and owns a well-maintained Peugeot also have a good reputation. To hire a To hire a good reputation. also have . Alternatively, ask at your hotel. Fathy el- Fathy ask at your hotel. . Alternatively, ally meaning ‘sniffing the breeze’ (ie to welcome spring),ally meaning ‘sniffing the breeze’ it’s a ritual that came from Pharaonic tradition via the who picnic at the Copts, and is celebrated by all Cairenes, zoo, in parks, by the Pyramids and on riverbanks and even traffic islands. celebrate Sayyidna al-Hussein (June 2009, mid-March (in July 2008, and June in 2009 and 2010), Sayyida Zeinab 2010) and Imam ash-Shafi (August 2008, July 2009). They parties great are not afraid of rowdy crowds (see if you are ). p509 text,boxed November. details. House Oberoi hotel in June. Check the website for 12 Rabi 2010). A al-Awwal (9 March 2009, 26 February citywide party and kids with sweets in new clothes, but in Midanthe week beforehand, Hussein is the venue for the most intense Sufi with God). and swaying carried out to achieve oneness SLEEPING SLEEPING and something for hotels, Cairo gem has a few the choices but in the midrange, every budget, Other moulids Ramadan Sham an-Nassim to the Giza Pyramids, Memphis and Saqqara. and Saqqara. to the Giza Pyramids, Memphis Its half-day costs US$19.50 Dahshur tour of per person. (plus entry fees) FESTIVALS & EVENTS pub- and information on festivals For general . p508 lic holidays see Arabic Music Festival Belly-dance festival Cairo International Festival Film Moulid an-Nabi Cairo. We recommend Salah Muhammad’s Salah Muhammad’s recommend We Cairo. Noga Tours excellent English-speaking as he employs Mohamed and drivers. guides, Egyptologists Anwar’s specialised 7724) taxithe day and dispense for a guide, with the friendly 278 1572) 2078) between E£200 and E£250 for charges Menesy US$23.50 charges a full day, and Noga Tours trip for a day-long per person (plus entry fees) November/December. .com) At the Cairo Opera House in September 2009). By day everything 2008 and 22 August slows down: shops and offices open late and close early, empty as everyone sunset the streets goes and just before the fast. But the nights, particularlyhome to break in until dawn. Islamic Cairo, buzz speaks English, as does

2578 (Fish (Fish Mom % 3781 4564; 3781 4564; (pancake/ % Al-Azhar Park ( is a wonder- is cheesy but is cheesy

fiteer CAIRO •• Tours (Map pp144-5 ;

3815 1014; Saqqara Rd, Sabil 10am-7pm) for delectable, distract- 2736 5751; 20A Sharia Mansour

% h has landscaped gardens has landscaped gardens Dr Ragab’s Pharaonic Village ( Crazy Water Toys R Us % Gabalaya Aquarium & Park discount, family with 2 children E£99; discount, family with 2 children or

2510 7378; www.alazharpark.com; E£10; . is home to one of the few chil- the few is home to one of has half-a-dozen a slides, water % 3570 8895; Midan3570 8895; al-Gamaa,admission Giza; 10am-5pm) %

9am-4pm) h (Map pp144-5 ;

h 10am-10pm) 9am-midnight) 9am-6pm Sep-Jun, 9am-9pm Jul & Aug) 9am-6pm Sep-Jun, 3571 8675; www.pharaonicvillage.com; 3 Sharia al-Bahr Fagnoon ArtFagnoon School The theme park When only bribery will help, try Mandarine When only bribery will help, try Mandarine Overlooking Islamic Cairo, The pleasant The aqua park The aqua park

als offer tours of sights within and around of tours als offer TOURS TOURS Innumerable companies and individu- 0820; Ground fl, Arkadia Mall, Bulaq). 0820; Ground fl, Arkadia & Me Mohammed, Zamalek) Koueider (see p168 ) p168 Koueider (see h central city. playgrounds in the dren’s (Map pp110-11 ; actual fish). It’s a great central spot to escape It’s a great actual fish). the crowds. sion E£1; with aquariums set in rocks (though not many Garden; Map pp144-5 ; Sharia Umm Kolthum, Zamalek; admis- pp144-5 Garden; Map get here, take a microbus from the Pyramids Rd a microbus take here, get to Saqqara and asked of 12.5km in the direction Umm Hashim. at Sabil be dropped off own food and drink, although To usually on sale. are and water pizza), coffee Saqqara step pyramid. You can bring your Saqqara step Saqqara. Children can slosh paint around, Children Saqqara. model clay, work with wrought iron or print the all in the shadow of and paint on textiles, Mekki metro stop. Mekki make mini reed boats. Take a taxi from (E£20 boats. Take mini reed make 800m from the Sakiat Downtown), or walk the a playground and an art centre where kids can where centre a playground and an art h in what life glimpse of a child-friendly offers with a been like, have would ancient Egypt costumes, in Pharaonic boat trip past actors al-Azam, child under 5 free, Corniche, Moneib; adult E£79-159, child 5-10 years 20% there from the Pyramids, drive 15km on the 15km Pyramids, drive from the there Cairo–Alexandria from its intersection road turn left towards 6th with Pyramids Rd, then October City. of h with sand, To get slides and tunnels. area admission children 3-10 E£25, children 10 & older E£35-45; 10 3-10 E£25, children admission children Map ; p148 25pt; Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book wave pool, a kiddies’ pool, and a playground a kiddies’ pool, and a pool, wave % Umm Hashim; per day E£25; ing ice cream. Or cut straight to toys at ing ice cream. ful art centre in the fields between Giza andful art centre ( CAIRO the thick of things,neargreat cheap eateries, If you’re onabudget, orjustwanttobe in can addupto25% more), orbreakfast. charges (which don’t includetaxes andservice and otherfactors, andthepricesquoted here a fee (see p155 varyaccordingtoseason ). Rates with oneexception)are opentononguestsfor of thepools(available onlyatthispricelevel, can soakuplobbyair-con forhours, andmany with cleanbathroomsandothercomforts. You locals do:asplacesof respite fromthecitydin, ient). Feel free totreat as establishments these cluster by the Pyramids(scenic,butinconven- and banks of theNile(handyforsightseeing) thanwereviewhotels –theylinethe inCairo rates quoted here a guideline. mer, whentouristsare fewer –considerthe somewhat negotiable, especiallyinthesum- the rate inbothpricecategories, andpricesare tour bookings.Breakfast isusuallyincludedin some midrange placesthatcoastonpackage- a few budget (under-E£100) optionsoutclass guarantee quality– butitdoesn’t satellite TV, are notnumerous.Paying more mayget you 158 Downtown On theupperend,there are farmore luxury toilets, nohotwater, whatever), they’ve beenunabletogetarefund. nights onarrivalandthenwhenthey’ve decidedtocheckoutafter onenight (because ofgrotty ever askformore substantialcash.We’ve hadletters fromreaders tostumpupfortwo asked outandthattheownershavebooked organised a room foryouelsewhere. in theaffirmative, you’llbetoldthatthehotel hasbeenflooded/closedby the police/totally she willask‘Are you…?’,usingthenameyouvolunteered Whenyouanswer backattheairport. do iscallafriend,whogoesandstandsoutsidethehotel you’ve Whenyouarrive, booked. heor where you’re staying. After achat,thepersonsaysgoodbyeandisn’tseenagain.Whattheynext then beaddedtoyourbill. horrible/a brothelandsuggestinga‘better’ place,forwhichtheyearnacommission, will hotels. linesincludetelling youthehotel Other you’re headingforisclosed/very expensive/ case tell Talaat themtoletyououtatMidan walktomostbudget Harb–fromhere it’sashort offer tofindyouanalternative… andthathisestablishmentisfull.Concerned,thetoutwillwho saysthatthere isnobooking course,theydon’tcallthehotel –theycallafriendconfirm thataroomiswaitingforyou.Of For instance,they’llaskifyou’ve ahotel. booked Ifyouhave, they’lloffer tocallthehotel to These peopleare notgovernment tourismreps, theyare hotel touts,andtheycanbeshameless. have goneoutofbusinessbythetimeyouarrive. and closewithanygreat frequency inCairo, andifit’slisted inthisbookitisvery to unlikely allscamsare attempts youfromyourlodgingIn short, todistract ofchoice. Hotels donotopen CAIRO HOTEL SCAMS AR • Sepn CAIRO ••Sleeping Finally, in,never payformore whenchecking thananightinadvance. Nodecenthotel will bus)asksyouyournameandThe mostcomplexscamiswhenastranger(often ontheairport Some taxidrivers willstallbytelling youthattheydon’tknowwhere yourhotel is. Inthat badge. youmaybeapproachedbyamanorwomanwithanofficial-looking At theairport, ally decrepit, apartmentblocks.(Grimystairs or aroundSharia Talaat Harb inold,usu- city’s hostels andcheap hotels are located on you’re inDowntown.Mostof bestoff the pp118–19 ; (Map and theNewMinerva Sharia Sherif) pp118–19; (Map crewenormous. Thesame runstheRichmond are verybut thestaff niceandthekitchen is ing inspots,andthetoiletsoccasionally run, floor, where thebalconiesare. Paint ispeel- here).offices Youwantaroomontheupper SuzanneMubarakhasher ings (First Lady city’s mostgorgeous mid-19th-century build- inoneofoffers waytostay the anaffordable out bathroomE£35/60/75,d/trE£65/80; Emadad-Din;s/d/trwith- [email protected]; 3rdfl,15Sharia Hostel African BUDGET vidual hot-water heaters in each bathroom. Pharaonic era;better hotels willhave indi- sleeper. Plumbingsometimesdates fromthe streets; request arear roomifyou’re alight nies andwindowsoverlooking noisymain tion of thehotels above.) Many have balco- and shaky aren’t elevators areflec- necessarily % Mp p122; (Map 2392 3273), located inanalley Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % 2393 9358;5thfl, 41 % 2591 1744;africanhouse i TheAfrican ) CAIRO )

) 159 ) This ai ai 2794 5728; ai % 2591 5277; www ) Sensible peo- 2592 2321; fax 2592 % 2575 7700; grandhotel@ 2589 2290; info@victoria 2575 5022; www.carlton 2575 5022; a % % % % (Map ; pp118-19 (Map p122 ; (Map pp118-19 ;

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Hotel Osiris ai The rooms at this old-fashioned place at this old-fashioned The rooms ) Windsor Hotel Victoria Hotel o Grand Hotel Fontana Hotel .com.eg; 66 Sharia al-Gomhuriyya; s/d US$37/48; http://hotelosiris.free.fr; 12th fl, 49 Sharia Nubar; s/d from US$34/41; rooms enjoy views cial building, the Osiris’ couple across the city. The French-Egyptian and floors the tile who run the place keep hand-sewn walls spotless, and the pretty white on the tidily arranged appliqué bedspreads served Breakfast, supercomfy mattresses. on juice fresh involves or the roof, a side terrace location in Bab Its and omelettes. and crepes at night. al-Luq is quiet link.net; 17 Sharia 26th of July; s/d US$36/46; to survive palace managed busy seven-storey place without los- to a midrange conversion – the luxury character ing its old-fashioned good parquet or so rooms still have hundred bathrooms. white-tile but new, shiny floors, tiny plaza. Entry is around the back in a basin US$30/38, s/d US$42/52, deluxe US$48/58; deluxe basin US$30/38, s/d US$42/52, rooms at the Windsor Practically speaking, the dim, with low ceilings and noisy air- are But with the beautifully main- conditioners. tained elevator, and hotel stairs worn marble every the dinner bell chimes where restaurant evening is hard for nos- at 7.30pm, the place talgia both the The entrance (to buffs to resist. and the bar) is on the back side, in the hotel Alfy. Sharia of just south narrow street 2145; Midan Ramses; s/d US$32/37; décor:mind-boggling lurid murals, animal fur- rugs and more of layers flowers, patterns, use than you can possibly in a night’sniture a big and there’s newish, stay. Bathrooms are the square. pool with a view over rooftop MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Carlton Hotel 21 Sharia of July; s/d half board E£135/195; 26th hotelcairo.com; ai (and priced reasonably Rivoli are near Cinema a deal), seemthe staff make to ready often dilapidation. of size and degree but vary in shiny have been renovated have The ones that TV satellite wood floors, paint, clean white a restaurant, bathrooms. There’s and private cafete- rooftop and a welcoming a coffeehouse cold beer. you can enjoy a ria where 19 Sharia with shower & hand Alfy; s/d .windsorcairo.com; ple will avoid this place; kitsch connoisseurs, this place; kitsch ple will avoid to the drawn however, will be uncontrollably 2391 1088; Run by % 2393 3707; hostel 2575 2802; 3rd fl, 8 CAIRO •• Sleeping 2396 1020; www.hotel 2392 2704; tuliphotel@ % % The owner of this The owner of ) % % (Map (Map pp118-19 ;

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Pension Roma Pension On a breezy upper floor with a wrap- On a breezy Divided among three floors, the rooms floors, Divided among three ) ) Lialy’s position on Midan Talaat Harb Harb Talaat Lialy’s position on Midan ) Hotel Luna Tulip Hotel Tulip Hotel Select Lialy Hostel o colour-coordinated in soothing pastels – a – a in soothing pastels colour-coordinated sight Excellent indeed shared in Egypt. rare kitchen too. can use a small kitchen. Note there are no are there can use Note a small kitchen. singles, however one four-bed – just private dorm-style room. walls and lots of chintz-covered furniture give give furniture chintz-covered walls and lots of and guests homy feel, the place a cheerful, across Downtown – particularly from one of Downtown – particularly from one of across the corner doubles or triples. Brightly painted ai around balcony, the Select views has great [email protected]; 8th fl, 19 Sharia Adly; dm/d/tr E£75/100/130; and the size of the bathroom. The back rooms and the size of location, and the surprisingly quiet for the are and friendly. staff polite are at this older hotel have high ceilings and clean have at this older hotel availability Ratestile floors. depend on air-con ai read, a large breakfast room with satellite TV room with satellite breakfast a large read, the kitchen. useand free of runs out. Some rooms have double beds and double beds and runs out. Some rooms have books to a small collection of There’s air-con. puts it right in the thick of the action. Ten action. Ten the puts it rightthick of in the bathrooms; every- three simple rooms share sometimes water thing is clean but the hot Midan Talaat Harb; s/d E£50/60, s/d/t with air-con E£60/70/90; Midan Talaat a very popular with repeat guests, many of whom guests, many of popular with repeat very hotels could afford expensive to stay at more here. atmosphere the old-Cairo but prefer tains create a feeling of timeless calm. Evening timeless calm. Evening of a feeling tains create as the place is an option. Book ahead, meals are ceilings, dark wood floors and filmy white cur- white and filmy wood floors ceilings, dark a French-Egyptian woman with impeccable woman with impeccable a French-Egyptian standards, even the Roma brings dignity, el- Towering scene. budget-travel egance, to the fax 2579 6243; 4th fl, 169 Sharia Mohammed Farid; s/d with- fl, 169 Shariafax 2579 6243; 4th Farid; Mohammed s/d with shower E£53/91) out bathroom E£50/82, opposite the Richmond, both with the same both with the Richmond, opposite glam rooms. though such not rates, bargain Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book yahoo.com; 3 Midan Talaat Harb; s with fan E£65-75, d with yahoo.com; 3 Midan Talaat fan E£95-105, s with air-con E£110, d with air-con E£130-140; lunacairo.com; 5th fl, 27 Sharia Talaat Harb; r without bath- Harb; r without 5th fl, 27 Sharia Talaat lunacairo.com; room E£100, r E£110-150; modern, backpacker-friendly place is one of place is one of modern, backpacker-friendly the most fastidious in the city, and his spar- many small comforts, such kling rooms offer as bedside lamps and bathmats. In the newer are ‘Oasis’ wing, even the paint and furniture CAIRO .gardencity.plus.com; 23 Sharia Kamal ad-Din Kamal .gardencity.plus.com; 23 Sharia CityHouse Garden BUDGET Options are limited, however. (still aneasywalkaway),andalot quieter. some waysjustasconvenient asDowntown Just southof Midan Tahrir, thisarea isin Garden City the smallish, not-very-stylish rooms. as anexceptionallypretty pool,makes upfor and adjacenttotheEgyptian aswell Museum, MidanTahrir location,off The unbeatable concretesleek lookiscomingbackintostyle. thatits aroundlongenough Hilton hasbeen 1959 midcentury-modernmonolith,theNile .com; 1113Cornicheel-Nil;rfromUS$170; lift ontheleftsideof the foyer. the anduse building entranceontheright L’Americaine Coffee Shop; enter thefirst colours. Turnintothealleyopposite theA handicrafts, rococofurniture andjewel-tone rooms are animpeccablemixof Egyptian the onlyboutiquehotel inthecity.The24 ory onceyou’re insidethisluxuriouscocoon, mem- isadistant windows, Downtowntraffic US$80/107/160; Talaat.talisman-hotel.com; 5thfl,39Sharia Harb;s/d/ste Talisman Hotel TOP END could do worse. it’s already booked aspartof apackage, you notbeit–butif where thismight inCairo, any- Ifyoucouldchoose and entrystaircase. to beat,asisitsgorgeous ArtNouveau façade quil pedestrianstreet inDowntown,istough from thelist.Butitsprimelocation,onatran- wouldnormallyget thisplacedropped service ously spotted carpetingandreports of surly Spanish Inquisition–lookfurniture, mysteri- ibnTaalab;393 3531;1Sharia s/dUS$44/55; andOrabi Ataba metro stops. prices lower–andyou’re very tothe close is notincentralDowntown,butthatkeeps but nobalconies,unfortunately. Theplace antique furniture ceilings– andnicehigh lined withcloudedmirrors, theroomshave comfy bedsandsatellite TV. longhalls Off of utterly silentair-conditioning, aswell is grandoldpalacewiththehappyaddition theVictoria Station, Not farfromRamses 160 Nile Hilton Nile Hilton Cosmopolitan Hotel AR • Sepn CAIRO ••Sleeping

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a ais Salah; swithout Salah; 2392 384;fax Gloomy ) ) A The handylocationissteps fromTahrir, but private bathroomsare much more spacious. Shared bathroomscanbesmallandstifling; (niceforsolowomen). the gentlemanly staff coat of paint),butabooninothers, such as great afresh insome ways(roomscoulduse 7000; www.fourseasons.com; 1089Cornicheel-Nil;s/dfrom big collectionof modern Egyptian art. canvas behindreception isjustonepieceof a windows thatactuallyopen.TheOmarNagdi 15 minutes. Roomshave lavish bathroomsand you canwalktotheEgyptian inabout Museum less posh,butithasamuch handierlocation– Residence inGiza),thisonemaybemarginally (theother istheFirst properties inCairo US$270/300; inthe bathrooms even layout. standard chic, withbrushed-gold trim andlarge marble gantuan rooftop pool.Roomsare minimalist the bestNilesideterrace intownandagar- glitzy.IthasbyfarGulf, theHyattissuitably a s/dfromUS$200/225; .hyatt.com; Cornicheel-Nil,Rhoda; Grand Hyatt TOP END accosted by touts. you canwalkoutandnotbeimmediately a bathroom E£55,dwithoutE£81-95,s/dE£73/106; enclave isthebest inthecity. of Zamalek the relatively sleep, For a goodnight’s quiet Zamalek block off the square. alcohol). Entranceisinthebackalley,one anyway. There’s atop-floor restaurant (no so mesmerizingyoumaynotwant tosleep with abalcony,thepeople-watching belowis But ifyouparkyourself inafront-facing one cently painted asoothingshadeof mintgreen. reverberates), theroomsare re- basic,though of anopen-endedhallway(where street noise appealing optioninthearea. eitherside Off Hussein; s/dE£105/130; place. the end,thisis deep want toplunge inatCairo’s tionally recommend bunkinghere. Butifyou with amplifiedcallstoprayer,wecan’tra- more than theusualnumberof mosques Given crazycrowds,toutslike locustsand Islamic Cairo Four Seasons atNilePlaza Four Seasons El-Hussein Hotel ) ) This pensionisuntouched bytime–not The newfavourite of touristsfromthe ais

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The only camping option in Cairo is Cairo Marriott Cairo Marriott plies the breakfasts – for the right – this guest, breakfasts plies the a lot. up for makes .menahouseoberoi.com; wing from Pyramids Rd; r garden US$165, s/d palace wing from US$235/280; two time House offers the stately Mena lodge, sport dazzling warps in one: the public areas Islamic decoration and perpetually smell of jasmine, but the grandest palace-wing rooms BUDGET BUDGET Salma E£80) to the Wissa adjacent miles from the centre, it’s close to a ). As p151 Wassef Art Centre ( canal, mosquitoes whether can be a problem, the dou- in a camping spot or one of you’re is not included in the ble cabins. Breakfast a microbus take here, To get nor offered. rate, of or taxi from Pyramids Rd in the direction off when you seeSaqqara and get the blue ‘Harraniyya’ sign. TOP END Mena House Oberoi .marriott.com/caieg; 16 Sharia Saray al-Gezira; s/d from US$180; ais but the rooms areas, lobby and other public in Renovated all in two modern towers. are TVs as plasma-screen such 2007, with touches some of rooms are and extra-plush beds, the comfortable price bracket, in this the more as small even if the standard bathrooms are a popular garden as prison cells. It also has pool. great café and a Giza & Harraniyya Because the Nile’s west bank is inconvenient for sightseeing, is to stayhere only reason the determined luxury – or if you’re for absolute a tent. to pitch TOP END TOP END Hotel Flamenco Golden Tulip 2 Sharia0815; www.flamencohotels.com; Gezirat al-Wusta; superiorstandard s/d US$105/121, s/d US$121/144; place is comfort- business-class This popular you skip equipped – as long as able and well the small standard rooms and go for the more balco- have which spacious ‘superior’ class, the houseboats on the Nile. nies overlooking applies in May Book ahead; a 25% discount and June. Built in 1869 as Khedive Ismail’s hunting Ismail’s hunting Built in 1869 as Khedive 4442; Saqqara Rd, Harraniyya; camping per person E£25, cabin ) With With ) In an In an a 2735 2311; www 2735 0718; pres ai 2735 9318; pension % 2735 7315; mayfair % CAIRO •• Sleeping % % The old-European- ) a (Map pp144-5 ; (Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5 (Map (Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5 (Map (Map ; pp144-5 According to the lobby, this is a thor- ) President Hotel Hotel Longchamps bathrooms make the rest look a little shabby. look a little shabby. the rest bathrooms make bar and a is, however, a good top-floor There sup- tasty patisserie in the lobby, which very don’t live up to the promise up to the – the newish don’t live ai [email protected]; 22 Sharia Taha Hussein; s/d US$55/65; [email protected]; 22 Sharia Taha want your own balcony and a small bath- Book room. tub, pay extra for an ‘executive’ well ahead. greenery-covered rear balcony around sunset rear greenery-covered – alcohol (where in the restaurant or lounge buffet – is served).and a full breakfast If you .hotellongchamps.com; 5th fl, 21 Sharia.hotellongchamps.com; Ismail Mohammed; s US$48-54, d US$68-75; shared bathrooms. Discounts are available available bathrooms. Discounts are shared long stays. for the main drag. It has 14 kitschily furnished, furnished, the main drag. It has 14 kitschily and slightly dim rooms (four with air-con) if you’ve moved in with a family if you stay at in with a family if you stay at moved if you’ve off blocks this clean and quiet pension a few a warm welcome from mum and the kids a warm welcome from mum and the kids TVwatching as in the living room, you’ll feel [email protected]; 6 Sharia Salah ad-Din; s/d without bathroom E£100/150, with air-con extra E£25; MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Zamalek Pension larger larger rooms. the young staff perfectly nice but perhaps a the young staff a nice but perhaps perfectly Generous balconies, TVs,tad too attentive. a plus in the are and nice wood floors fridges the large terrace. Solo travellers will find will find Solo travellers terrace. the large however,the single rooms cramped, and Art Deco building on a quiet street, the the a quiet street, Art Deco building on in 2006, making it one got a redo Mayfair places in the neighbour- the better-value of on relaxing you’re hood – especially when [email protected]; 2nd fl, 9 Sharia Aziz Osman; s/d without bathroom E£80/100, s/d E£130/150; BUDGET Mayfair Hotel very very budget-friendly. located, and most of the city’s sights are a a city’s sights the are of and most located, short taxi a E£2 cab to the ride away (or take Gezira it’s not metro station). Unfortunately, This is also where many of Cairo’s best res- of many also where This is are shops and coffee taurants, bars shops, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book style Longchamps has a residential feel. feel. has a residential style Longchamps spacious and well maintained, Rooms are on the peaceful, and guests gather to chat oughly place with glitter- modern three-star carpeting. But rooms and plush ing mirrors CAIRO order withthecashier, thentake yourreceipt (Note that attakeout places,youplace your and alongSharia 26thof JulyinZamalek. for themalongthemainavenues Downtown delicious andcheap mealsyou’llhave. Look Tahrir ( opposite ) are often someof themost food: Egyptian minichains such asKosharyEl don’t write thatlookslike offeverything fast a sourceof cleanbathrooms, atleast.But the reach of manylocals;for visitors, they’re glossyplacesareMcDonald’s, butthese outof PizzaHut,KFCand themselves. You’llsee kets where themajority of Cairenes feed lentils) counters, andfruit-and-veg mar- scores of street carts, extra pounds’cashtipis always appreciated). (afew andservice ditional 22%orso,fortax some midrange places,expecttopayanad- along withalltheingredients. and Atthese fromtherelevantimported country, straight the luxuryhotels, andthechefs are usually the part.Mostswankdiningoptionsare at fellow guestswillappreciate itifyoudress on dinner–andifyougoforthelatter, your craving.been YoucanspendE£5orE£250 Thaifoodyou’ve andeven all thepizza,pasta refined versions of Egyptian classics,butalso notonly istheplacetosample country, Cairo With someof thebestrestaurants inthe pool is capacious. suitably garden wingare dullymodern.Theswimming chain-link fencing, whileroomsinthenew ‘garden’viewstake inunsavourybecause really have tosplash outwithaPyramidsview, bedspreadstapestry andsmokymirrors. You are withgroovy Barbarella-meets–Ali Baba, 162 EATING At theotherendof thespectrumare the across itwith thesideofyour otherhand,asif tosay‘Cut acharm. meoff’. Works like withyourwaiter, aquickchopping motioneye contact holdoutyourhand palmup,thenmake a hissas‘Headsup –comin’through’. coming downthenarrowlane. Translateattention cart soyoudon’tgettrampled byhisdonkey isn’t commentingonyourhotbod(well, OK,sometimeshemightbe)–he’stryingtogetyour they’re more toleave likely youalone. can seemabitrudeifyou’re it.Butifyouuseitcasuallytotoutsonthestreet, notexpecting togetoffended,of them,you’llbemuchlesslikely run over orneglected inarestaurant. Cairenes have awholearrayof nonverbal waysofgettingapointacross–andifyouknowsome SILENT COMMUNICATION INCAIRO AR • Etn CAIRO ••Eating But the most essential gesture to learn is the one for asking for thebillatarestaurant.But themostessential gesture Make tolearn is theoneforasking Another signalthat’soften misinterpreted byforeigners isaloudhissingsound.No,thatguy First, ‘no’isoften communicated withasimple upwardnodorabrusque kushari (spicyriceand cafeteria Sa’ahasalimited nextdoor,Akher and shwarma they’re notalwaysavailable), thenorder aregarlic-marinated tomatoes killer,though fromalargeby pickingfoursalads array(the pen tobesomeof thecheapest aswell.Start of –andtheyjusthap- thebestmealsinCairo north of MidanOrabi,thisplaceoffers some Orabi;dishesE£1-8; 31 Sharia o BUDGET talgic favourites. cheap-and-cheerful territory, plusafew nos- Forget finedining.Thisispredominantly Downtown restaurants. popular from more than60of thecity’smost service www.otlob.com, with order onlinethrough just about anythingdelivered, andeven (p170). Drinking but ifthescene’smore thething,it’sunder scrumptiousfood,welistithere,has notably before isover thenight –ifaplacelike this multicourse mealsintoboozingandgrooving from withguestsproceeding and nightclubs, tip whenall is done.) to thecounter man,whowouldn’tmindatiny Alfy; dishesE£1-9; in Mohandiseen (Mapin Mohandiseen pp144–5 ). Talaat Harb Complex (Map pp118–19 ) and There are branches inthefoodcourtof the wiches are alsodelicious, andasteal at75pt. some lentilsoupor Many restaurants tend todoubleasbars Akher Sa’a Akher Too tired toleave thehotel? Youcanget ta’amiyya At-Tabei ad-Dumyati (E£5.50)or

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With its foggy mirrors, dusty dusty With its foggy mirrors, Emara Hati al-Gish Packed with tourists, coach parties parties with tourists, coach Packed In winter, Cairo’s In winter, Italian is social club 11am-11pm) Centro Recreativo Italiano Il Cairo 2575 9590; 40 Sharia 26th of July; pizza E£15-30; o Café Riche Café Riche Abu al-Hassan al-Haty Greek Club Felfela RestaurantFelfela 2964; 32 Sharia Falaki; sandwiches E£10-12, mains E£17-24; sandwiches E£10-12, 2964; 32 Sharia Falaki; h the air this grill palace, where upon entering charcoal-cooked with the smell of is heavy Sharia Hoda Shaarawi; entrées E£3-7, mains E£15-40; midnight) is an institu- and locals since 1963, Felfela if not wildly a reliable, tion that can deliver delicious, meal and good service. A bizarre jungle theme rules the décor, but the food is and consist- straight-down-the-line Egyptian ently decent, especially the mezze and grilled E£12. costs A Stella chicken. Harb; dishes E£15-40; Talaat drinking spot was the favoured restaurant It’s a bit less lively Cairo’s intelligentsia. of and nostalgic now, but nonetheless a reliable spot to enjoy a meal (even a European-style wine, surrounded by and a glass of breakfast) Cairo luminaries on the framed portraits of wood-panelled walls. mains E£15-25) who look older than waiters and chandeliers of the building itself, is a beautiful relic this used as a set period for Downtown – it’s often TV is a bit items) shows. The food (all grilled palatable. perfectly secondary, but students set up camp here, chowing down on chowing setstudents here, up camp potatoesbig salads, stuffed baked and sand- off at better though, For coffee, you’re wiches. this strip. on the other cafés one of Mahmoud Bassiouni; mains E£10-18; about this that’s still Greek the only thing on the bazouki music playing club is private a cats clamber on where terrace, its outdoor a place to have But it’s a nice shady pergola. beer and a lightmeal; the menu is standard as such items, Greek with a few Egyptian, can convince the tzatziki, thrown in. If you you can heritage, door staff your Hellenic of charge. cover skip the E£5 in a cosy, wood-panelled room; in summer, of out into a vast yard in the centre it moves the embassy compound. It’s the place to sa- pizzas, crisp-crust as great vour rarities such and even wine affordable pork products. red E£10 cover. Non-Italians pay an 11pm) %

but AUC kushari, ‘We have ‘We have kushari with Greek with Greek ‘burger’) but ‘burger’) 7am-11pm) h 2796 0260; 35 Sharia Our independ- fiteer 24hr) Good % h 8am-midnight) This tiny place just This tiny place just ta’amiyya 2576 3583; 13 Sharia 26th of July; This fast-food eatery is eatery This fast-food h (Map pp118-19 ; Sharia Tahrir; ; Sharia Tahrir; pp118-19 (Map

% (Map pp118-19 ; 166 Sharia Tahrir; ; 166 Sharia Tahrir; pp118-19 (Map

CAIRO •• Eating (Map pp118-19 ; Sharia Talaat Harb) ; Sharia Talaat pp118-19 (Map 7am-1am) 10am-midnight) Average 10am-midnight) Average 9am-2am) to Downtown residents, AUC AUC to Downtown residents, (Map pp118-19 ; 40 Sharia Champollion; pp118-19 (Map (Map pp118-19 ; 4 Sharia ad-Din; Emad pp118-19 (Map (Map pp118-19 ; (Map pp118-19 ; Midan; Orabi; small/ pp118-19 (Map

h h (Map pp118-19 ; Tawfiqiyya Souq) Excellent ; Tawfiqiyya pp118-19 (Map fiteer temple – no, the place has just ex- temple . (Map ; pp118-19

Other supercheap options: Other supercheap Fatatri at-TahrirFatatri Abu Tarek Koshary El Tahrir Koshary El Tahrir Gad ta’amiyya medium/large kushari E£3/4/5; and pavement tables. and pavement Mohammed Mahmoud; dishes E£8-22; MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Pottery Café Sayed Hanafy Koshary Goha Felfela Takeaway Felfela Abu Samra get very crowded in the afternoon. the crowded in very get students and legions of backpackers for dec- backpackers students and legions of and delicious, though it can ades. It’s reliable off Midan Tahrir has been serving sweet and off Midan Tahrir savoury isn’t packed with takeout orders. takeout with isn’t packed line moves fast; it’s worth eating in to get fast; it’s worth eating in to get line moves which garlicky vinegar, the proper dose of stories of its building, even as it has held its building, even as it has held stories of onto the unofficial Best The Kushari title. kushari panded, decade by decade, into the upper small/large kushari E£3/5; Khalek Sarwat. small/medium/large kushari E£3/4/5) this place is confirmed that tests ent taste (heresy!). Tarek than Abu actually better Abdel a secondSharia on branch There’s the city, including opposite Khan al-Khaliliopposite the city, including (Map p129 ). value. You can sit upstairs or take away from or take You can sit upstairs value. throughout It has branches the front counters. cheese is scrumptious and the quarter chicken chicken cheese quarter is scrumptious and the with rice and salad is both tasty and good dishes E£2-12; with a constant to the rafters usually packed sampling young Cairenes its fresh of stream and well-priced food. The glacial table service upstairs. glacial table next door. A branch at 14 Sharia Abdel Khalek Abdel at 14 Sharia A branch next door. setup downstairs fast-food-style Sarwat has a giant- the genius (note menu but its food is fresh and good. The sign’s The sign’s and good. is fresh but its food menu bookstore a Christian there’s only; in Arabic lonelyplanet.com Also excellent. Also gorgeous vintage-Cairo setting. gorgeous vintage-Cairo kushari E£2-3; dishes E£9-16; no other branches!’ proclaims this veritable proclaims this veritable no other branches!’ CAIRO (Map (Map pp118-19 Talaat; Sharia Harb) For fresh fruitandvegetables try SELF-CATERING place toperch fora shorter stay. alone here, andthebarinbackisagood after beer. women It’snotuncommon tosee scooping upsimplemezzeandordering beer you’ll feel like though, seated, one of theclub, tion of awaiter, which isnomeanfeat. Once arts-and-letters thengetCairo’s set, theatten- of cigarette smoke, pastbooths crammed with clouds can bealittleawkward:strollthrough Estoril (fromanalleynexttotheAmexoffice) Harb; mezzeE£7-35,mainsE£32-59) frites canmake anicechange from kebab. but FrancophoneCairenes love it,andsteak food maynotquite match itsEuropeanideal, scheme and Galliccrooners onthestereo. The summery Francewithablue-and-white colour Bistrononethelesstriestoconjure Le level, Shaarawi; mainsE£32-36) Bulaq, justnorthof Downtownon the Nile. rooms to menu ranges fromspringrollstogarlicmush- whenaSakkaracostsE£23,andthe to meet minimum charge of E£50,butthat’snothard is asmuch abarasrestaurant. There’s a Hip musicaddstotheambience–place has amore casualcrowd,includingchildren. scene is)andalarge gardenarea, which often from its1st-floor terrace (where thestylish the Conradhotel, Sangriahasgreat Nileviews Adjacent totheclubAbsolute andopposite Shaggara, Cornicheel-Nil,Bulaq;mealsE£22-60; fowl. tasty thegreaseoff whenyou’re done nibblingthe are afew alongwithsinksforwashing tables, sign; lookforthebigopenoven. Outback it’ssmallandthere’smiss because noEnglish pery, lemonybroth.Noalcohol, andeasyto andall-you-can-drinkmugsofwith salad pep- thing onthemenu,butit’ssplendid,served E£20; alcohol. No pp144–5). (Map 164 Sharia 26thof July,off MidanSphinx There’s at anotherbranch inMohandiseen, did, andthe kastileeta onrequest. roasteda fullstuffed, sheep The meat, fromaquarter-kilo (E£17.50)–upto 164 Sangria Sangria Gomhouriya Estoril Estoril Le Bistro h AR • Etn CAIRO ••Eating 1pm-3am)

Mp pp118-19; (Map (lambchops) are particularlysplen- penne allavodka.

Mp pp144-5; (Map Mp pp118-19; (Map mouza

(Map (Map pp118-19 Falaki;; 42Sharia meals Stuffed pigeon Stuffed istheonly Tucked awaybelowstreet (shins) goodforgnawing. % % % 2574 3102; 12 Sharia Talaat2574 3102;12Sharia 2579 6511;Casinoash- 2392 7694; 8 Sharia Hoda 2392 7694;8Sharia or You’llfinditin Walkinginto Souq Bab al-Luq Tawfiqiyya Souq h 1pm-3am)

open late, andthere’s anexceptionallygood InterContinental, Cornicheel-Nil; mezze E£15-29,mains American and more. so youcantake yourpickof Indian,Italian, menu drawsfromallthehotel’s restaurants, as thisisapopularplacetoschmooze. The Nile –andperhaps somelocalmovie stars, Hyatt isagreat placetotake inaviewof the water, theterrace restaurant attheGrand with bigwhite umbrellas andjuttingover the Corniche el-Nil;dishesE£22-90; haunts. local restaurants. LookonSharia Qasral-Ainy for The luxuryhotels here have someexcellent Garden City Sharia 26thof Julyand Sharia Sherif. pies. There’s anotherbranch onthecornerof andsavoury sweets tearing intotheirOriental ily identifiedbythecrowdsof peopleoutside midnight) (Map pp118-19 Talaat; 35Sharia E£1-6; Harb;pastries headfor For pastriesandsweets try the crackers anddrinks.ForWestern-style bread grocers where youcanstockuponyogurt, Harb) plusnumerous pudding (aroundthecorneronSharia Talaat dairy store andrice cheese forricotta-style (Map pp118-19 Falaki) ; offMidan particularly Thai, but very tasty. withtea –not miss thecoconutbiscotti served ofous use traditional Thaiflavours. Don’t showagener-for sometastes, butotherwise onthefishsauce bealittlelight Recipes might pla pow presented, asare more nouvelle offerings like are salad grilled beef delicious andbeautifully suchCairenes. asfishcakes Standards and panelled spacethat’safavourite withwealthy best Thairestaurant, asoothing,wood- E£42-95; InterContinental, Cornicheel-Nil;appetisersE£26-85,mains Mezze such asthe withlotsofnal tables, togoaround. cocktails celebrating birthdaysaroundgiantcommu- is more fun –here it’s all biggroupsof Cairenes good asSabaya’s(below),buttheatmosphere jointisn’tas foodatthisbasement Lebanese mezzeE£10-30,mainsE£30-45; America; your bestbet,butskip the meatballs. Taboula Sabaya Bird Cage El Sakya h , Cairo’s mostfamouspastryshop, eas- , Cairo’s Nile Hilton Deli Nile Hilton (sea basswrappedinbananaleaves). (sea

Mp pp118-19; (Map noon-1am) Mp p148; (Map Mp p148; (Map Mp pp118-19; (Map Spicy means tomiyya % Mp pp118-19; (Map

% 2365 1234;GrandHyattHotel, ba’al % 2792 5261; 1 Sharia Latin 2792 5261;1Sharia . Tawfiqiyya Souqis % h 2795 7171;Semiramis (garlic sauce) are (garlicsauce) s, the all-purpose s, theall-purpose 2795 7171; Semiramis 2795 7171;Semiramis noon-1am) lonelyplanet.com h spicy h El-Abd Bakery noon-1am) 8am-11pm) at Cairo’s atCairo’s Dotted h The 8am- .

CAIRO 165 stand kush- 2735 7057; 157 Head down Head shwarma 2735 2655; Sharia % 2735 9117; 26 Sharia This little black- % % A noisy, crowded A noisy, crowded 7am-11pm) 2736 3870; 22A Sharia Taha 2736 3870; 22A Sharia Taha noon-1am) h % h (Map pp144-5 ;

(Map pp144-5 ;

(Map pp144-5 ; A little slice of Europe, with loads of Europe, with loads of A little slice of

24hr) stand (Map pp144–5 ) on the west side of ) on the west side of pp144–5 stand (Map La Mezzaluna Crave Maison Thomas Maison Thomas ing here for quite some time. Many expats Many some time. for quite ing here (E£25) is the best in think its ‘Zombie Burger’ chocolate town, and the megasize, superrich fondant dessert will satisfy serious cravings (order it with your main meal, to allow for baking time). Aziz Osman; mains E£17-36; a tiny alley to find this funky bilevel space by Cairo The bohemians. that’s frequented menu is roughly Italian, from conventional as tomato and basil to the ‘Illy combos such and cof- radicchio pasta’ (beef bacon, cream, but the enormous. No alcohol, Salads are fee). little patio out front is a quiet place to take an outpost in Mohandiseen There’s coffee. ). pp110–11 too (Map Hussein; mains E£18-50; but it chic, looks extremely eatery and-white has a welcoming (rather than snooty) staff and pizzas, pasta and of priced menu a reasonably the comfy corner couch one of Score the like. setups, loung- find yourself and you could Didos Al Dente Bahgatpasta E£6.50-22.50) Ali; pasta joint with a small outdoor space, Didos has dishes and often of rings with the clatter It’s popu- for a table. crowds waiting out front dorm nearby AUC lar with students from the close living up to its to and it comes pretty in town. making the best noodles claim of No alcohol. Sharia 26th of July; sandwiches E£12-40, pizzas E£23-40; h aprons serving sandwiches. crusty baguette But this institution is best known for its pizza, in a branch There’s toppings. with generous ). p153 (Map Heliopolis ticularly on the weekend. If you’re not up for not up for If you’re on the weekend. ticularly (E£12) at the coffee a have you can a full meal, Café upstairs. Alain Le Notre Zamalek Zamalek Cairo’s most best and some of has is not one Cheap dining stylish restaurants. pos- a few are but there the island’s fortes, of the Barakasibilities, including a Brazil and ) on Sharia pp144–5 (Map ari ad-Durr. Shagaret Sharia MIDRANGE brass and mirrors, and waiters in long white in long white and waiters brass and mirrors,

fit- 2510 9151; ta’amiyya, ta’amiyya, % is E£9. Look for The luxurious The luxurious sheesha Lebanese cuisine is Lebanese is cuisine (Map pp110-11 ;

(Map p129 ; Midan dishes Hussein; p129 (Map

10am-2am) Eating at this gorgeous res- Eating at this gorgeous h CAIRO •• Eating Adjacent to Al-Halwagy, this Adjacent to Al-Halwagy, 2590 3788; 5 Sikket al-Badistan; snacks E£9- 7.30pm-1am) (Map p129 ; Midan Hussein; dishes E£5-30; p129 (Map

Citadel View Citadel View 24hr) % are served are individual cast-iron in h noon-1am) Not directly on the square, but just be- but on the square, Not directly h

h and salad place has been around for 24hr) topped with your choice of cheese, egg, of topped with your choice fatteh Egyptian Pancakes

o good. Reservations par- recommended, are all traditional Egyptian grill items, is quite is quite grill items, all traditional Egyptian city sprawled below – feels almost like visit- almost like city sprawled below – feels though, the Fortunately, ing a luxury resort. not so stratospheric, and the food, prices are taurant with multilevel – on a vast terrace, Cairo’s seated around you and the whole elite the metal detector in the lane, immediately the metal in the lane, immediately detector medieval gate. the west of good, the air-con is strong and the toilets are is strong and the toilets are good, the air-con is E£10 and clean. Tea khan’s bustle/hassle. The place may be geared khan’s The place may be geared bustle/hassle. to tourists, but the food is reasonably entirely Moorish-style interiors of this restaurant and this restaurant of Moorish-style interiors from the a popular haven adjoining café are (Map p129 ; 20, mains E£14-50; MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END Khan el-Khalili Restaurant & Mahfouz Coffee Shop eer and ground meat. For dessert, tomato, olives choose your toppings from raisins, coconut icing sugar. and popular place serves up made-to-order tables or hide away upstairs. tables or hide fuul can eat at pavement nearly a century. You h buildings, this good hind a row of BUDGET BUDGET Al-Halwagy

Midan Hussein but the restaurants in this in this Midan Hussein but the restaurants to have – you really limited are town part of grilled meat, and not be too squeamish like about hygiene. Islamic Cairo Islamic Cairo joints around fast-food of plenty are There fresh-baked pillows of pita, and mains such pita, mains such and pillows of fresh-baked as sleek,pots. The setting but consider- is very is and sharing generous sizes are ing portion not as high as you prices are the norm, the would expect. it’s rarely done as well as it is here, where where as well as it is here, done it’s rarely come with mezze and delicate the diverse E£48-108; E£48-108; lonelyplanet.com Egypt’s most common ‘ethnic’ food, but but ‘ethnic’ food, common most Egypt’s E£10-15; Al-Azhar entrées E£9.50-14, mains E£20-65, minimum Park; E£100; CAIRO lar Lebanese restaurant is drawingyoureyes lar Lebanese E£27-47; mezzeE£10-36,grills Sarayal-Gezira; Blue NileBoat,9ASharia but acouple stance, out. stand clubs. They’re generally more stylethansub- each packed withthemedrestaurants and converted extravaganzas, intoentertainment The eastsideof theislandislinedwithlarge boats Gezira cool. AStella goes for E£22. nings directly onthewater canbesurprisingly sushi onthemenu.Bringanextralayer–eve- fromEgyptian-styleand everything mezzeto Gallery, lowcushions fornursing a major scene,withartexhibitsbyTownhouse thissprawlingNilesidelounge isa of Zamalek, E£75; Thu-Fri al-Feda; mezzeE£8,mainsE£32-60,minimumSat-WedE£50, ofthe entranceistoright the hotel. street byitsoldname,Sharia Maahad al-Swissry; ries are a littleweak.Taxi drivers mayknowthe the requisite lemongrass andherbs,butthe cur- outdoor terrace. Saladsandappetizers have all to visitthismellowlittlerestaurant foritsquiet you’re notcraving want Thaifood,youmight Abaza; entréesE£8-35,mainsE£30-85) Shaer Aziz soundtrack is soothing. cheesier, creamier items, andthemellowjazz –youcan’tgowrongwithmostofsaka the ravioli andaubergineas blue-cheese mous- votes halfitsmenutovegetarian dishes such 2am) Sayyed al-Bakry;entréesE£14-20,mainsE£26-36; the tall wooden doors. of Mansions theBaehler’s complex;lookfor are amust.Theentranceisonthewestside pp110–11; (Map onMidanAmmanbranch inMohandiseen, furniture andfatpillows.There’s another hanging lamps,kitschy gilt‘LouisFarouk’ postprandial and-tequila atthebigbar,ora cocktail yya, known tosavour thechicken with taste of theirroots–OmarSharif hasbeen it iswithupper-class natives lookingfora Abou ElSidisaspopularwithtourists first hipsterCairo’s Egyptian restaurant, 26th ofJuly;mezzeE£11-24,mainsE£25-57; 166 Dar ElAmar Sequoia L’Aubergine Abou ElSid Sabai Thiswhite-walled, candlelitbistrode- butyoucanalsoenjoyasugar-cane- AR • Etn CAIRO ••Eating h h noon-3am) Mp pp110-11; (Map

Mp pp144-5; (Map Mp pp144-5; (Map Mp pp144-5; (Map 1pm-1am)

Mp pp144-5; (Map sheesha. % The challenge atthispopu- 3749 7326). Reservations 3749 7326).Reservations Atthevery northerntip It’s all served amid It’sallserved % % % % % 2576 8086; 3 Sharia Abu 2576 8086;3Sharia 2735 3114,0123900256; 2735 1846; 21 Sharia al- 2735 1846;21Sharia 2735 9640; 157 Sharia 2735 9640;157Sharia 2738 0080; 5 Sharia 2738 0080;5Sharia h molokhi- Even if noon-2am) h sheesha noon-

Shielded fromanoisystreet byaphalanxof alcohol served. two otherplacesadd trendy crowd.Downtheblocktoright, the neon-litcaféandget a the cornertoyourleft,orheadupstairs to restaurantin theold-style‘Oriental’ around youcansitdownwith spicypickles.Orelse on thecorner,get a meats intoyoursystem. Atthetakeout joint Al-Omda offers numerouswaystoputgrilled empire upthebetter taking partof ablock, Mohandiseen; dishesE£8-30; Al-Omda BUDGET outlets. fast-food excellent restaurants amongtheplethoraof flavourless, butit’spossibletofindsome These grey concrete suburbslookblandand Mohandiseen &Doqqi Egyptians eager for exotic flavours. isfy bothhomesickexpatsandmiddle-class chips anda‘buildyourownfajita’ platter sat- and theworld.All-you-can-eatsalsa so goes goes, Mahfouz toholdcourt–asCairo used now occupiesaspotontheNilewhere Naguib 1am) entréesE£20-30,mainsE£29-60; Saray al-Gezira; E£24. costs designer gladragstoscore atable. AStella reasonable andyoudon’thave tobewearing many othereateries ontheriver, pricesare a choice fromthe53mezzeonoffer. Unlike tomakeaway fromtheNileviewlongenough ladies, then withayounger crowdlater in is afavourite lunching withMohandiseen’s h al-Arab, Mohandiseen; mezzeE£10-22,mainsE£45-75; alcohol. No andrice. accompaniedbysalads the table ify howyouwantitprepared. Itarrives at per kilo)intheiced-updisplay,then spec- from mullet,crabs, squidandmore (priced fish restaurant. There’s nomenu– just pick branch ofCairo therespected Alexandrian cloths acheery note set inagardenatthe shrubbery, afew withblue-checked tables Ahmed Orabi,Mohandiseen;dishesE£30-75; Samakmak MIDRANGE Chili’s Cedars noon-1am) TheAmericanpseudo-Mexican chain

(Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5; (Map Mp pp144-5; (Map

Mp pp144-5; (Map

Mp pp144-5; (Map This chic Lebanese restaurant Thischic Lebanese % % % shish tawouq kushari 2735 3122; Nile City Boat, Sharia 2735 3122;NileCityBoat,Sharia 3346 2701; 6 Sharia al-Ghazza, 3346 2701;6Sharia h 3345 0088; 42 Sharia Geziret Geziret 3345 0088;42Sharia % noon-2am) 3302 7308; 24 Sharia 3302 7308;24Sharia sheesha lonelyplanet.com andpizza. No h sandwich A mini- withthe 10am-4am) h 11am-

CAIRO ), 167 (a cross With With ta’amiyya 24hr) 7-11.45pm, plus aggah h h 3569 2557; Ground fl, 3383 3222; Mena House 3377 3222; Mena House % % % 2258 6954; Sharia Ibrahimy; dishes This café-patisserie in 3383 0234; 27 Cairo–Alexandria % % Locals love this place for its Locals love (Map p150 ;

(Map p148 ; (Map p150 ;

or the popular Peace II Seafood Peace or the popular Cairo’s Indian restaurant best 10am-11pm) – big bowls of noodles with a rich – big bowls of (Map p153 ; 8am-2am) h (off Map p150 ; p150 (off Map

8am-2am) h h Moghul Room Khan El Khalili Cheap but good-quality eateries within within eateries but good-quality Cheap E£4-15; cauliflower and as egg-fried such and a giant between an omelette It’s signed in vegetarian. are which most of ries and kebabs, with an emphasis on tan- ries and kebabs, Though doori dishes. a long taxi it’s ride from Downtown, the opulent décor, good the trip worth- sitar music make food and live op- vegetarian of a wide range There’s while. tions (from E£35 to E£40) and an extensive a limited (and pricey) wine list. At lunch, on Khan El is available dishes selection of Khalili’s menu. Heliopolis ) and p152 In addition to the Amphitrion ( these places chains, major of branches if you happen to be in a good break are the neighbourhood. BUDGET El Shabrawy with tuxedoed waiters, potted palms and a potted with tuxedoed waiters, good-quality Mediterranean Its grand piano. been you’ve after for lunch perfect dishes are the zoo. to Oberoi, Pyramids Rd; mains E£55-150; and a fan- highly functional air-conditioning the Pyramids, this is a good spot tastic view of for a post-sightseeing even if the food is lunch, broad enough,a bit bland. The menu is from (a brightspaghetti to Indian dishes that spot), A everyone will find a little something to like. costs E£20. Stella Oberoi, Pyramids Rd; mains E£75-165; 12.30-2.45pm Fri) specialises in mild North Indian–style cur- walking distance of the Pyramids are few. Try few. are the Pyramids distancewalking of Felfela Rd; by tour groups beloved Restaurant. Both are on the but also patronised by locals, they’re the main road off of the roundabout in front hotel. Oberoi House Mena TOP END La Gourmandise mall, 35 Sharia Place al-Giza; pastries E£16-33, mains First E£42-115, the glitzy Four Seasons mall comes complete makaroneh meat sauce – but the place also serves dishes

and ayran tagen muham- 10am-1am) After se- After Excellent h along with the along molokhiyya 3748 2801; 4 Sharia noon-2am) noon-1am) 3570 9693; Americana Boat, % h h sheesha % 3383 1133; 59 Tir’at al-Maryutia, 3383 1133; 59 Tir’at % CAIRO •• Eating (Map p148 ;

(Map p148 ;

(Map p150 ; p150 (Map (red-pepper salad), fresh and salty salad), fresh (red-pepper Andrea Fish MarketFish lecting some of the finest and freshest seafood the finest and freshest lecting some of most display counter, in town from the large guests tuck into delicious mezze while their With its fish is simply but expertly cooked. wonderful Nile views (particularly at night), and efficient feel laid-back service, this place a gem. is 26 Sharia el-Nil; dishes E£25-50; ground equipment and a swimming pool. But comes mosquitoes,with greenery so lay on A taxi from central beforehand. the repellent Cairo E£20, or E£6 from cost about should sure Make House area. the Pyramids/Mena doesn’t you to the unrelated your driver take Pyramids Rd. Gardenia, south of Andrea salads, and cold Stella (E£20). Weather per- salads, and cold Stella play- garden with mitting, seating in a large is chicken the place is justly famous for. There’s There’s the place is justly famous for. chicken little else aside from this and on the menu pat out bread dough and tend the spit-roasted the spit-roasted dough and tend pat out bread Saqqara; entrées E£5-15, mains E£20-25; trip to the country at this restaurant a Take Pyramids Rd on the west side 1.5km north of Canal. At the entrance women Maryutia of is served. the duck with starchy taro the duck with starchy root. But vegetar- to work with. No alcohol much ians don’t get selves in seventh heaven: the kofta and the kofta in seventhselves heaven: good, as is the rabbit with are deep leather banquettes and waiters dressed dressed deep and waiters leather banquettes will find them- lovers suits. Meat in sombre below street level, room is fur- the dining below street carved by ornate ther darkened panelling, Ahmed Nessim; mains E£12-40; food is servedEgyptian at with formality steps a few Located eatery. this intimate BUDGET & MIDRANGE BUDGET & MIDRANGE El-Mashrabiah Market and Moghul Room are worth a spe- and Moghul are Room Market will servecial trip. The others you well if you the neighbourhood. happen to be in There are a number of good eateries in this eateries good of a number are There Cairo, Fish thoughpart of only Andrea, with French fries. You can also get full meals full You can also get fries. with French the grill. from Road Giza & Pyramids better-than-average food: peppery food: peppery better-than-average mara and big sandwiches(yogurt drink) stuffed the evening. Rattanspacious dot the chairs there’s where terrace, lonelyplanet.com CAIRO of icecream. delectable Definitely shellout pp144-5; cheap. For self-catering, headfor Drinkies cheap. For self-catering, iswidelyavailabledrinkable, butbeer and dives. Liquor isexpensive, andwine isbarely it’s limited tohotel bars andsome cheaper hours, tilltheevening start and then doesn’t orspiritstypicallystyle cafés.Drinkingbeer tional byday,availableon caffeine atbothtradi- isn’ta‘dry’city, butlocalstend torunCairo DRINKING p153). (Map berry). There’s anotherbranch inHeliopolis extra forthe E£3.25; pp144-5; bread. European-style caffeGezira; latteE£14; pp144-5; Maison Thomas( p165 ) and sciutto are available fromthedelicounter at quality produce. Porkproductssuch aspro- shops onShariaseveral 26thof good- Julysell pp144–5 ) onSharia IsmailMohammed, and There’s a24-hourMetro Supermarket (Map Ahmed Sabry) while with bothlocalfoodsandimported items, bestgroceryis Zamalek’s SELF-CATERING people-watch. and vary, butingeneral it’sagoodplacetoeat the restaurants may andotherentertainment It waschanging management onlastvisit,so from TGIFriday’stoEgyptian snackjoints. centre with kids’ridesandlotsof placestoeat, Heliopolis, isalarge parkandentertainment as pigeon are great; afew Europeandishessuch such staples asstuffed eat. Egyptian-Levantine and someoneticklingtheivorieswhileyou chairs, photosonthewall puffy sepia-tone Heliopolis, starched serviettes, withstiffly mezze E£9-17,mainsE£16-40; Petit Palmyra MIDRANGE opposite sideof thestreet is also popular. Shabrawy Arabic only–lookforthered awning.The 168 For a sweet treat,For asweet Merryland penne puttanesca AR • Dikn CAIRO ••Drinking Sekem h ahwa % % % 9am-11pm) 2735 5010; 17 Sharia Shagaret ad-Durr;perscoop 2735 5010;17Sharia ta’amiyya 2728 3000; Cairo Marriott, 16 Sharia Sarayal- 16Sharia 2728 3000;CairoMarriott, sells organic sells productsandtofu. 2737 0801; 4 Sharia al-Malek al-Afdal) al-Malek 2737 0801;4Sharia (Map p153; (Map (Map p153 ), northof central

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(Map (Map (Map (Map (Map (Map , au laitE£7; other Groppi,butthegardenterrace here ice headupstairs (smoky,butwithacouple fromtheopenfridge;or salad serv- fortable grab apackaged fresh sandwich, juice,cake Twinings tea. Downstairs, ordertogoand coffee and excellentItalian-style chain –does popular, cleancafé–partof alocallyowned cappuccino E£6,sandwichesE£6-17.50; Cilantro DOWNTOWN opposite . see coffeehouses more bythetimeyouread this.ForEgyptian outlets–andthereStarbucks willlikely be inEgypt.self Yes, there are acoupleof even school, you’dbehardpressed tolocate your- teenage girlswhocrowdthebanquettes after weren’t of forthegaggles headscarf-wearing andfreewell assnacks,sweets wi-fi. Ifit offering kindof every caffeinated drink,as coffee barsneighbourhood supportsseveral since. Everysame reasonably well-to-do the andthecityhasn’tbeen landed inCairo, Sometime after theyear2000,espresso crash- Cafés &Patisseries foreigners. to only alcohol isserved During Ramadan dering arounddrunkisinpoortaste aswell. on thestreet isabsolutely andwan- taboo, brands of localbooze. Note thatdrinking wineandtheonlyreliablewhich stock beer, Simonds ZAMALEK peaceful placefor acupof tea or (with justaE£10minimum)is relatively midnight) tobacco. Fornostalgia only. buffs overpriced, and thetearoom reeks of cheap haunted. Theofferings areseems poorand was more than50years ago. Nowitjust of thenewcoffee wave, point Groppi’shigh charge E£20; of magazines and newspapers. All offer free wi-fi, strongair-con andastash p153 ) andDoqqi(Map p148 ), to nameafew. (Map Zamalek pp144–5 ), Heliopolis (Map branches just abouteverywhere youturn: Thereof outsidebalconyseats). are other and onSharia Talaat Harb inDowntown), shops (onSharia 26thof JulyinZamalek Groppi Garden Groppi Garden Groppi’s (Map (Map pp118-19 MohammedMahmoud; ; 31Sharia

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169 smoke smoke s. sheesha experi- s and one 10am- 24hr) Dedicated h sheesha galabiyya sheesha ahwa h in the city, and in the city, and (E£3) and 24hr except in Ramadan) (El Fishawy; Map p129 ; off ; off p129 Map (El Fishawy; is discovering ‘yours’. ‘yours’. is discovering s are open from 8am s are h shai idan Aswan, Mohandiseen; idan Aswan, ahwa (Map pp118-19 ; Midan Bab Falaki, pp118-19 (Map

for every subcul- possible ahwa ahwa (Soma Caffe; Map pp118-19 ; 11 pp118-19 Map (Soma Caffe; ahwa 10am-2am) Dim lights, TVs and canoodling (see p96 ). pp144-5 ; 3 M ; pp144-5 (Map pp118-19 ; Nile Hilton,; 1113 Corniche pp118-19 (Map h serving up (Map pp118-19 ; Downtown) Under a tree in an ; Downtown) Under a tree pp118-19 (Map (Map sahlab The Horreyya (there’s no real sign out- no real (there’s The Horreyya ahwa, Some others to try include the following: Some others Cafeteria Horreyya There’s an There’s Fishawi’s Fishawi’s Coffeehouse ture. We list the most famous ones here, but famous ones here, We list the most ture. alley off Sharia Mahmoud Bassiouni in Downtown. Women are welcome. sheesha E£9; Mahran Tornado of its most up-to-the-minute. Not only can up-to-the-minute. its most of through the dreamily you stare up at the high ceilings, down at the sawdust- cross- floor and out across a great strewn but you can also check customers, section of Really. Another wi-fi. your email on the free (E£8). There’s bonus: beer is also available too, though beer is scene here, a good chess those tables. near strictly prohibited Abu Aly Café el-Nil, Downtown; minimum charge E£20; 1.30am) Popular with locals: an upscale Kawkab ash-Sharq Midan Cairo; Hussein, Islamic Probably the oldest certainly Fishawi’s is a the most celebrated, the world go by. Despite place to watch great tourists and equally being swamped by foreign wide-eyed out-of-town it is a regu- Egyptians, lar alike. and shoppers (E£4.50) to stallholders of in the early hours It’s especially alluring the morning. During Ramadan it closes from about 5pm. 3am till side – look for a pale-pink façade and plywood is simultaneously the windows) some of over the city’s most classic one of morning if at all. Or you can order lemonade, lemonade, you can order if at all. Or morning rich, winter, or, in the infusions hot herbal milky the half the joy of (sports Downtown alleys all over Look in back Adly; intellectuals, Sharia of fans gather south a nice traditional there’s at Midan Falaki); Mosque; Al-Azhar joint down the lane behind can be surpris- and some mall food courts ingly fun. Most serveto 2am; a few it’s a beer, but generally nonalcoholic scene. to the ‘Star of the Orient’, Umm Kolthum. Look for the out front. huge busts of the singer Sharia Saray al-Ezbekiyya, Downtown; ence, with live music, traditional food (entrées E£12 to in E£15, mains E£46 to E£82) and waiters al-Luq) and and (tea) (tea) Dusty shai fuul anytime. Bright, busy sheesha. At this branch At this branch 2735 7982; 20 Sharia 24hr) fiteer % Funky and lived- h (Map pp144-5 ; 5 Sharia; 5 Abu pp144-5 (Map

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towla sheesha ahwa gave its name to the café, gave Arabica Café Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Coffee Bean & Tea Coffee Roastery Euro Deli tend to guava and mint. Even though coffee and mint. Even to guava tend (ahwa) is far more common than the inky-black common than the inky-black is far more usually drunk in the Turkish-style brew, array of array of places – where women smoke as well – have as well – have women smoke places – where expanded the concept, not to mention the floors, rickety tables and the clatter of domi- of tables and the clatter rickety floors, noes and most traditional places, but newer, shinier can order sweet or savoury Cairo’s a deeply over and breathe chat shakshouka Ahwas some Egyptian food here, along with your along with your here, food some Egyptian options include – breakfast latte in, this upstairs café is frequented by teens café is frequented in, this upstairs and older students, who gather to study and tables. And un- doodle on the paper-topped you can actually get competitors, slicker like fiteer E£11.50-23; topped with pastas and fries. For breakfast, there’s chewy chewy there’s pastas and fries. For breakfast, the local variation, – try bagels Montreal-style and cucumber. oil) puccino E£9, sandwiches E£12-22; and good wraps, wi-fi and slick café with free making. Still, the coffee is very good. very is making. Still, the coffee which may or may not be connected with the may or may not be connected which change- incorrect of occasional complaints ated with Hollywood celebrity sightings, with Hollywood celebrity ated the sunglasses and similarly large wears clientele policy – a strict no-tipping jewels. There’s of the American coffee chain most associ- chain coffee the American of with the food. with ferent ways, is surprisingly good. Don’t bother ferent music videos and young staffmusic videos and young this an make popular meeting place for groups extremely served young locals. The coffee, of in 30 dif- cappuccino E£7; at a rickety counter stool and read the morn- read stool and counter at a rickety pastry. buttery a flaky, ing paper over of a century. The Byzantine pay-first system system pay-first a century. The Byzantine of as are pre-caffeine, can be difficult to navigate tradition to sit but it’s a Cairene the crowds – old-fashioned French-style café, the barista café, the French-style old-fashioned if he’s beenlooks as serving part better for the lonelyplanet.com al-Marashly, E£5.50-9.50, Zamalek; cappuccino E£7, breakfast al-Feda; cappuccino E£9; al-Feda; CAIRO rescent bulbs–butyou’re notgoingforthe the barrel-shape chairs and thedaintywall antelope heads, pable filmonthetaxidermied inanalmostpal- Colonial historyhas settled soundtrack of swingjazzandUmmKolthum. guests, acordial,polyglot bartender andafaint on,leavinglar clientele afew haspassed hotel h dress wellandgoin mixed groups. so door policiesasstrictthenightclubs, snack asyougo. Thefancierplacescanhave Many placesalso have fullmenus,soyoucan are of distance within staggering oneanother. wherehave bars several thecash) isZamalek, fun. Byfarthebestplacetogoboozing(ifyou placescangenerateweek themosthigh-rolling are in hotels, buttheflavour-of-the- those and goinoutof favour. Themostreliable As inanyotherbusycity,bars openandclose BARSWESTERN-STYLE foreigners. seeing décor. and regulars Thestaff are to used Downtown) Downtown) coming placethansimilar bars nearby. expats, whofinditamore cheerful and wel- style placegets goodreviews fromDowntown with atinyred neonsign,thisspit’n’sawdust– Talaat& Sharia Harb,Downtown; but theatmosphere sleazy isslightly and fun. to the1st-floor bar. isnotalways icy, Thebeer Downtown; youbackE£8 will set or E£10. screened in.AStella sopassers-by off can’tsee common euphemism,andtheentrancesare none isclearlylabelled ‘bar’;‘cafeteria’ isthe toilets are pretty helpthat foul.Italsodoesn’t are forwomenontheirown,andthe suitable unwelcoming:none spirits. Theycanseem andlocal beer a few Downtownbars serve underbelly, Cairo’s whowanttosee For those LOCAL BARS Bars al-Bustan Zahret fruit isasmoothie,andthefresh- couples –butthehardestdrink 170 writers –andstudents writers backpackers. and Harb, Downtown)Asometimehauntofintellectuals Windsor Bar d’Or Cap Tawfiq Port Cafeteria Stella Cafeteria Cairo 6pm-1am) sheesha AR • Dikn CAIRO ••Drinking (Map (Map pp118-19 Sarayal-Ezbekiyya, ; 3Sharia Quite run-downandlitwithfluo- Darkandreasonably inviting. h tastes healthy. practically

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Mp p181 Mdn Orabi, Midan pp118-19 ; (Map h until midnight) cnr Sharia HodaShaarawi cnr Sharia Marked Marriott’s gardenterrace isoneof themost 16 Sharia Saray al-Gezira, Zamalek; Sarayal-Gezira, 16 Sharia Seasons NilePlazaandbehind amooredSeasons Tucked belowthestreet opposite theFour is that it’s pricey. ular. Youcaneathere, too. Theonlydownside pop- makequality wineandbeer itdeservedly drink. Bigcanechairs, fresh airandgood- spotsintowntorelaxcomfortable over a costs E£8andbarsnacksstart at E£5. watch thesungodown(orcomeup).AStella and cinemaclique,isagreat placeto favoured heavy-drinking theatre byCairo’s singed from Hamid Said,Downtown; louder. Reservations are recommended. where thecrowdskews younger andthemusic off anddubbedBarten, One wingissectioned gorgeous againstthe most of celebrityscenesters, Cairo’s wholook at thelongbrass-topbar. Theplacedraws inconsistent, sobetter tostickwithcocktails butthefood(mainsE£29toE£50)is taurant, This vast,amber-lit lounge doublesasares- 26thofJuly,Zamalek; 157Sharia Mansions, here. AStella costs E£13. sconces. Solowomenwillfeel comfortable are a help. on assorted international snacks.Reservations older patronsare here toair-kiss andnibble –most oflighting thewell-dressed, slightly grotto withgood electronicaandmoody Perennially Tabasco chic, Le isabasement Amman, Mohandiseen;minimumchargeE£50; expats andmoodier AUC students. cateringthan otherfabnightspots, tojazzcats, this minimalistbarthat’sjustalittle hipper black T-shirt andyour sharpest eyewearto Bakry, Zamalek; parties. ticket-only specials.Itoccasionallyhostsspecial, nightly quirky mixof localandTurkish flavours, with tunes, andthemenu(mainsE£25toE£42)isa room, aDJspinshipinternational andArabic fic onthecorniche. Inside thetentlike main sheesha parked atapicnicbench andenjoyinga out iseasytomiss.Oncedownhere, though, restaurant boat,thismellowNilesidehang- Topkapi Topkapi Odeon Palace Hotel La Bodega Le Tabasco L’Aubergine Marriott Garden Café Garden Marriott and beer, it’seasytoforget andbeer, thetraf- (Map (Map p148 City) ; Cornicheel-Nil,Garden

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CAIRO Al- 171 One of One of If you go The grande 1pm-3am) 7pm-3am) 2579 6512; Corniche el- h h 10pm-4am) 2578 0444; Nile Hilton, 1113 % 3573 8500; Four Seasons First 3573 8500; Four Seasons First h % % or online at www.yallabina (Map pp144-5 ;

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Latex Club 35 ) often left Rock Café ( Additionally the Hard Absolute Ahram Weekly Ahram ses- four or five .com; cinemas usually have sions a day, some starting at 10am and or typically cost as 12.30am. Tickets as late at day- around E£25, and can be cheaper women attend time sessions (when more crowd is largely 20-somethings. There’s a a 20-somethings. There’s crowd is largely E£100 minimum Tuesday through Friday, on Wednesday. except for ladies Residence, 35 Sharia Giza; Giza, midnight, the place doesn’tbefore look all Asian- that promising, as it’s still in soft-jazz the light But later, show mode. fusion-bistro as does livelier, the music, and it rivals gets crowds. weekend Latex for has a DJ spinning discs, and some kind of dance scene. Cinemas listings in the check For what’s showing, stricter. Big packs of men are always a no-no – men are Big packs of stricter. group as you can, and ideally a go in as mixed make reservations. Nil, Bulaq; minimum charge E£75; its Cairo’s clubs but also one of elite most reserva- requires absolutely best, Absolute floor and solid DJs, it tions. With a big dance bottle service which draws a flashy crowd for not up for the full club is the norm. If you’re at adjacent Sangria scene, you can lounge restaurant ( p164 ). Theatre is mainly in Arabic, so not accessible so not accessible mainly in Arabic, is Theatre travellers. many to Nightclubs in Cairo enough clubbers to pack aren’t There hot place at a time, so what’s than one more the week. to the nightvaries according of one- a club will host a special Occasionally they’re required; is a ticket off party for which is getting but the challenge cheap, or very free ear an and ask likely to the ground, Keep one. places start as res- you meet. Many Egyptians taurants and only shift into club mode after point the door policy gets midnight, at which Corniche el-Nil, Downtown; dame of Cairo’s scene (formerly known club dame of the Nile Hilton’s basement party as Jackie’s), up with the times. The music zone still keeps is always some variation on house, with the occasional Arabic pop hit thrown in, and the

3365 % Exactly (Map p148 ; noon-4am) Cheesy, yes, but 2532 1281; Grand Hyatt and gossip about h % The West Bank equiva- comes in more flavours. flavours. comes in more 3pm-2am) sheesha h CAIRO •• Entertainment (Map p148 ; p148 (Map and beer, with a good view. But The ground-floor bar in the bar in the The ground-floor 1pm-4am) sheesha (Map pp110-11 ; 32 Sharia Jeddah, Doqqi) pp110-11 (Map

(Map pp118-19 ; 8 Sharia; 8 Qasr el-Nil, Downtown) pp118-19 (Map

(Map pp118-19 ; Nile Hilton, 1113 Corniche pp118-19 (Map h (Map p148 ; King Hotel, 20 Sharia Abdel Rahim p148 (Map

(Map pp144-5 ; 2 Sharia al-Bakry, Zamalek) Sayyed pp144-5 (Map

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Hard Rock Café Hard Rock Café Nomad Revolving Restaurant Lounge Jazz Up Jazz Up Bull’s Eye Le Grillon Deals ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT Food here is recommended, though portions is recommended, Food here snacky side. on the are welcoming scene because it’s relatively small. welcoming scene because it’s relatively music is somewhat more limited, but whether limited, music is somewhat more in for rock, local folk or jazz, it can be a you’re rets with floorshows abound in Cairo. Live Live in Cairo. abound with floorshows rets Western-style clubs, cinemas that screen clubs, cinemas that screen Western-style caba- films and five-star English-language ling and white vinyl, as well as salsaling and white nights (Sunday and Friday) and the occasional live band (Thursday). el-Nil, Downtown) wood panel- Nile Hilton is an odd mix of ish, and the lent of the Odeon Palace rooftop bar, ideal for rooftop Odeon Palace the lent of breezy styl- befitting its Doqqi location, it’s a bit more Sabry, Doqqi; rest up on nonclubbing nights. It draws a mix rest with darts, karaoke Egyptians, expats and of on inclined, steak Wednesday and, if you’re the menu. This faux-English pub is a big stop on the place to circuit – an unpretentious nightlife fake vines and lots of ceiling fans. The en- ceiling vines and lots of fake a courtyard between trance is in the back of two buildings. is all about beer,is all about The illusion of politics and the arts scene. furniture, wicker with is created outdoors Nominally a restaurant, this bizarre faux-patio this bizarre Nominally a restaurant, need to frock up. (The adjacent restaurant need adjacent restaurant to frock up. (The the money.) doesn’t merit and knock-out views from the tallest structure the tallestand knock-out views from structure a pianist and you’ll for miles around. There’s Mohandiseen (Map pp144–5 ) and Heliopolis ) and Heliopolis pp144–5 Mohandiseen (Map (Map p153 ). evening and at weekends. It’s pleasant It’s evening and at weekends. enough in other branches are There times. at quieter A small cellar bar that never cellar bar A small open ac- looks in the comfort late for packed too tually gets lonelyplanet.com Cairo, Corniche el-Nil, Garden City; there’s a lot to be said comfortable for seatsthere’s 1234; 41st fl, Grand Hyatt Cairo, Corniche el-Nil, Garden Hyatt Cairo, Corniche el-Nil, 1234; 41st fl, Grand City; minimum charge E£35; what you’d expect from the global chain. what you’d expect from the CAIRO has to an art-house has toanart-house cinema. Doqqi) TheclosestCairo al-Galaa, Cairo Sheraton,Midan Cairo SheratonCinema Cairo films: English-language tres ( p112 ). Thefollowingregularly screen check schedules atthemanyculturalcen- shows atthelower-rent places).Also 172 parts oftheworld,toseeanEgyptian companycompete onaninternationalparts scale. with theStarbucksandCostasofworld.Iwouldlove Cilantroinother toseesomethinglike often foraforeigner. mistaken Bytheendofdiscussion,we’re usually bestfriends. tolaughandaskmehowIlearnedthephrase–they’re reallyusually start surprised,becauseI’m situation,Ijust saythis,andpeople‘Relax’, todefuseasituation.Whenever I’minanuncomfortable Kubbar dimaaghik. What’s yourfavourite phraseinEgyptian colloquial? back, have a Without adoubt,Nomad( p171 ). It’sarooftopbarwithanamazingview–great placetosit Is there anywhere yougojusttorelax –andnotusethecomputer? It’s atiebetweenGad( p163 ) and And yourfavourite restaurant? Sphinx[inMohandiseen].Itwaserectedin Midan notlongafter hewontheNobelPrize. Seeing howI’minpublishing,Isupposemyfavourite monumentisthestatueofNaguibMahfouz What’s yourfavourite monumentinCairo? Egyptian experience–haggleaway! a MacGyver ofautomotive technology. Egyptians canfixanything!Soifyoustillwantthereal potential flattires. Butthere are stillplentyofthosearound, becausetheEgyptian mechanicis versus the complicationsoftraffic,oldcarsand howmuchtherideisworth sion astoexactly conditioning, and,ifyou’re really unlucky,nodoorhandles. Eachrideendswithanepicdiscus- The yellowcabs–whatastep forward!The oldblack-and-white cabshave nometers, noair- Anything bigrecently? Cairo every summertovisitmyfamily.It’samazinghowfastitgrowsandchanges. way ofdealingwiththeclaustrophobia. Anyway,I’mhalfEgyptian, andgrowingupIcameto uprandomconversationsreally withpeopleonthestreet friendly.Ifindmyselfstriking –agood Yeah, butIlove Cairo. notknowingwhatthedaywillbring. Ilike Andtheaverage Egyptian is Whoa –majorchange! Three years. Imoved here in2004fromJapan. How longhave youlived inCairo? RAMY HABEEB it haswireless. nice atmosphere. –it’sthebestI’ve Andyoumusttrythecarrotcake ever hadanywhere. And hasfoundthebalance,along witha mix,butMakani that sandwichesandsushidon’texactly such asFrench smothered friesinapitapocket withtahini. Egyptian fastfood.Youcangettraditional AR • Etranet CAIRO ••Entertainment But I also like Cilantro( But Ialsolike p168 coffeehouse that’s positionedtocompete). It’sahome-grown On the other end of the spectrum, there’s Makani: asandwichandsushidelicatessen. there’sOn theotherendofspectrum, Iknow Makani: Director andco-founderofKotobarabia.com, thefirstArabic e-publishinghouseintheMiddleEast. sheesha Itliterally yourheadbigger’,buttheconnotationis‘Chillout’or means‘Make (Map (Map p148 ; and enjoy the city from a peaceful, bird’s-eye perspective. andenjoythecityfromapeaceful,bird’s-eye % Makani 3760 6081;

(9 Sharia Amr,Mohandiseen; (9 Sharia fuul and panied women). The entrance to Karim IIisaround panied women).Theentrance toKarim the corner. itpopularwithyoung males(notaplaceforunaccom- make flicks andaction Emad ad-Din,Downtown)Cheaptickets Cinema Metro I&II Cinema Karim one of its scruffiest. TalaatSharia Harb,Downtown) OnceCairo’sfinest,now ta’amiyya sandwiches,orcrazyconcoctions (Map (Map pp118-19 ; h 8am-2am). Mp p122 ; (Map Gadisreal modern % % 2393 7061;35 2592 4830; 15 Sharia 2592 4830;15Sharia lonelyplanet.com CAIRO 173 2362 6748; 3795 7171; 3795 7171; % % a sort of musical musical of a sort This old-fashioned- zar, (Map pp110-11 ;

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The park’s 300-seat open-air theatre hosts The park’s 300-seat open-air theatre 11pm-4am Tue-Thu & Sun) 11pm-4am Tue-Thu At the other end of the scale, you can the scale, you can At the other end of Haroun al-Rashid El Genaina Theatre El Genaina Theatre at El Sawy Culture the schedule Also check h not on (though often Dina undulates to check). Wednesday nights– call seedy, the mikes are set on the highest reverb, set on the highestseedy, are reverb, the mikes the appearance have the dancers and most of But it can be wrestlers. amateur and grace of fun, especially if you can maintain the right inebriation – buzzed enough to join level of (a perk if you shower in the dancing onstage the dancer and the band with enough E£5 it that you fall for the but not so out of notes) for tactics, as fees such myriad over-charging snacks and even napkins (expect unordered about E£5 after E£15 for a Stella, to pay about nothing hap- the hotels, Like charge). cover midnight. after pens till Dance Dance DANCING BELLY you see one belly dancer in your life, only If be in Cairo,it had better true the art form’s at Cairo’s perform The best dancers home. usually to an adoring crowd hotels, five-star begin typically Shows wealthy Gulf Arabs. of around midnight,although the star might until 2am or later. to the stage not take out up- Admission is steep; to shell expect includes food, but E£250, which wards of in getting often not drinks. Cairo’s divas are tiffs or their manag- with their host hotels from what’s may change so their venues ers, given below. traditional women’s women’s traditional Wednesday, ritual (usually and healing trance 9pm; E£20). Al-Azhar Shariawww.mawred.org; Salah Park, Salem, Islamic Cairo) Middle from the artists, stars touring Western (though free often East are and locals; shows entrance fee). the park you must pay two concert halls host ), where p112 Wheel ( Up rock and jazz bands. Jazz the city’s bigger bands one or two nights) has a week, p171 ( and the Citadel as well. concerts in the summer watch a less nuanced expression of the art the art of a less nuanced expression watch pounds at several clubs form for just a few Alfy in Downtown. They’re along Sharia Semiramis InterContinental, Corniche el-Nil, Garden City; looking five-star club – all red curtains and curtains and club – all red looking five-star the famous marqueewhite lights – is where A 5pm- h 2532 2800; 8pm-2am) 2480 2013; Egypt Today Egypt 3345 9939; www 2739 8144; Gezira The Egyptian The Egyptian 2574 0855; www % h % % % % 3335 4726; 122 Sharia3335 4726; 2792 0878; www.egyptmu for bands, pick up a % % (Map p148 ; p148 (Map Of the opera complex’s Of the opera complex’s . (Map p148 ;

monthly. Also keep an ear monthly. Also keep (Map pp144-5 ;

CAIRO •• Entertainment (off Map pp110-11 ; pp110-11 (off Map (Map pp118-19 ;

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Egyptian Gazette; Egyptian

The city’s liveliest stage, with modern with modern stage, The city’s liveliest Makan Cairo Opera House

After Eight Cairo Club Jazz Grand Hyatt Annex, Nile Corniche, GardenGrand Hyatt Annex, Three City) in English. Arabic films Occasionally subtitles screens. Sharia ibn Khattab, Omar megaplex A 13-screen Nasr City) the mall. at miss the Mazaher ensemble, performing the miss the Mazaher space dedicated to traditional music. Don’t space dedicated favourites; the clientele is equally eclectic. eclectic. is equally the clientele favourites; Reserve style in no way online (the website’s the club’s). reflects popular DJ Dina, who mixes James Brown, Brown, James popular DJ Dina, who mixes cab-driver the latest pop and ’70s Egyptian packed for everything from jazz trios to a for everything from jazz trios to a packed to the wildly Frank Sinatra impersonator ahead (online is easiest), and no-one under is admitted. 25 and more seven nightsand more a week, usually starting around 10pm. You must book a table .cairojazzclub.com; 197 Sharia 26th of July, Agouza; 3am) folk, electronica, Oriental fusion, Egyptian the main entrance) the to borrow them from staff). Programmes are at the information window (right of available and tie are required by males for Main Hall Hall Main by males for required and tie are been known have performances (travellers Music Institute and an open-air theatre. Jacket Jacket and an open-air theatre. Music Institute held in its Main Hall while recitals, theatre and theatre while recitals, Hall held in its Main the world of the rest and dance from Egypt Arab Gomhouria Theatre, in its Small Hall, and the Cairo Symphony Orchestra tend to be to and the Cairo tend Symphony Orchestra

For theatre and classical and folk music sched- and classical and For theatre the ‘ET Calendar’ules, check in Live Music & Theatre Live Music & Theatre or the the copy of Good News Grand Hyatt Good News Grand (www.sosmu Festival out for the SOS Music local show of a periodic free sicfestival.com), devoted crowd. bands that draws a Citystars Centre Cinema TahrirCinema lonelyplanet.com Tahrir, Doqqi) Comfortable,Tahrir, single cinema where modern hassle. receive shouldn’t females .after8egypt.com; 6 Sharia Qasr el-Nil, Downtown; minimum charge Fri-Wed E£60, Thu E£90; funky, poorly ventilated venue that gets that gets venue funky, poorly ventilated sic.org; 1 Sharia 1 sic.org; Saad Zaghloul, Mounira) Exhibition Grounds, Gezira) five halls, performances by the Cairo halls, performances five Opera Center for Culture & Art runs this intimate & Art runs this intimate Center for Culture CAIRO Turkish dervishes –putsonamesmerising Turkish dervishes more raucous andcolourfulthanwhite-clad and notall of them are asexpensive asyou’d gem boutiquesfor housewares andclothing, to actuallybuy– its shady streets have some isthebestplace mass-market shops.Zamalek more forchecking outstreet fashioninthe here. DowntownalongSharia Qasrel-Nilis cific treasures, such asgorgeous silks,reviewed ( of al-Khalili Khan p128 ) doyieldafew spe- stocked withgoodsfromChina,thetinyshops where they’re tolook.Though touristyand most beautifultreasures. Thetrickisknowing then you’dbemissing outonsomeof Egypt’s to keep yourwalletfirmlyshut inCairo. But to youover of endlessglasses it’stempting tea, and theover-eager hustlers them tryingtosell of themountains chintzy souvenirsBetween SHOPPING hour aheadtosecure a seat. arrive spacesin use; aboutan the medieval ( p133 ). It’sagreat oneof opportunitytosee performance attheWikalaof Al-Ghouri summer) 1735; admissionfree; Al-Tannoura DanceTroupe Heritage Egyptian SUFI DANCING the showis less rushed. an àlacarte as menu.Goforthelater sailing, orAsmahan, such alongwith star asRanda a relatively abig-name economicalwaytosee boats,runbytheMarriott,the Nilecruise is E£170; Zamalek;minimumcharge Sarayal-Gezira, Sharia Marriott, classier airinthe patrons, however. with red velvet inspire drapes–thisdoesn’t a complete fantasia terior alone,allOrientalist admission E£5) basically covers and abeer a fee, there’s aminimumcharge of E£30,which singer oracrobat. Inadditiontotheentrance money isthrownatthem,andanoccasional tingent, bellydancers whoget better themore 26th of July.IthasafullArab musicalcon- lapidated Sharia 1950s dancehallinanalleyoff end of thescale’isPalmyra, acavernous, di- Downtown; admissionE£6) Soraya is the star. Doqqi) 174 Nile Maxim Nile Maxim Scheherazade Palmyra Casablanca AR • Sopn CAIRO ••Shopping Located in the Cairo Sheraton,Located intheCairo where h Egypt’s onlySufidancetroupe–far sailings at7.30pm&10.45pm)

Worthvisitingforthegorgeous in- (Map (Map pp118-19 26thofJuly, ; offSharia

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2512 Sikket al-Badistan,IslamicCairo) Sikket those inchic restaurantsthose around town. to pickuplarge painted trayslike tabletop candlesticks toantiquedivans.Here’s where curiositiesfromsmallbrass stocks Oriental In aramblingapartment,thiseclecticstore Sayyedal-Bakry,Zamalek; 12 Sharia of Hamas’ Sheikh Nasrallah. decoupage coasters featuring thebeardedmug movie posters, (terrorist-kitsch even alert!) as custom-printed windowsheers, Arabic Fun, not-too-priceyhome-décoritems, such Zamalek; al-Marashly, notable home toseveral antiques shops. is al-Khalili, east–west routeKhan through often adeal.Sikket thecentral al-Badistan, specific items such as oldadvertising signsare are stratosphericallypriced–butneatEgypt- some beautifulresults. As forantiques, some ish homeitems with fromtraditionalartisans, Shop-owners have beguncommissioning styl- Antiques &Interiors Sharia Abd al-Hamid Lotfy. especially alongSharia SuleimanAbaza and istheplacetogo, Mohandiseen that affords), imported goods (andallthepeople-watching and Sharia Mansour Mohammed. Forupscale expect –lookespeciallyonSharia al-Marashly Home &Beyond July. of overflow isinasmallerplacejust across26th cut-glass bowls,oldsilver andfinechina. The this cornershop,atrove of antiquesilkrugs, Elephant sculptures guardtheentranceto 26thofJuly,Zamalek; Sharia Upholstery fabricissoldby the yard. wood picture frames,have afolk-artaesthetic. items are minimalist; others, like thepainted Some madefromtambourines. out thelights applicationsofclever traditionalcrafts– check 11pm) IsmailMohammed,Zamalek; egypt.com; 4Sharia Downtown apartmentsall end up. is where the treasures in19th-century stashed boxes.with gleamingjewelleryandsnuff This of LouisXV furniture filled andglasscases isawarren al-Khalili antiques dealerinKhan 17 Sharia Mansour Mohammed,Zamalek) Arabichouse- Mansour 17 Sharia Noubi Nabil Makan Ahmed ElDabba&Sons Loft Tao Gallery Also trythefollowing: This coolhousewares shop features

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Mp pp144-5; (Map (Map (Map pp144-5 ; h % 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pmSat) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2736 6931; www.loftegypt.com; 2736 6931;www.loftegypt.com; %

Mp p129; (Map h Themostrespected % 2738 2632;www.makan % % h 10am-2pm &4-10pm) 2735 0480; 15A Sharia 2735 0480;15ASharia lonelyplanet.com 2735 3233;106-126 012 3297830; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat) % 2590 7823;5 h 10am-

CAIRO ), 175 Cool Friction’s 2736 4640; 11 Sharia 2738 1837; www.sami In business since Colour-saturated, Colour-saturated, Egyptian Gazette Egyptian % 2736 9204; 18B Sharia al- Well made and lo- % 2738 2790; 8 Sharia Ahmed % 3748 6663; www.nagada.net; 13 3748 6663; www.nagada.net; % 2591 8833; abdelazizsalah@hotmail % 11am-8.30pm Sat-Thu) 10am-6.30pm) % 10am-8pm) h h (Map pp144-5 ;

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Not as interesting as Mix & Match as Mix & Match Not as interesting (Map pp144-5 ; (Map pp144-5 ; (Map p148 ;

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Mobaco Mix Match & Nagada Sami Amin Sami Amin Friction Atlas Sharia Refa’a, Doqqi; the silks, cottons and linens are handwoven shop in a grand villa – this luxe mainstay of drapey women’s buy by the yard, or in boxy, by the yard, it’s both beautiful and sturdy, and than anything you might holds its dye better also find for less. Caftans are and slippers order custom clothing and you can available, the fabrics. with any of -amin.com; 15A Sharia al-Mansour Mohammed, Zamalek) brass-and-enamel jewellery as well as chunky leather bags, belts and shoes, many imprinted prices – at bargain And all with tribal patterns. just E£33. bags and sandals start at Marashly, Zamalek; shop-window mannequins scandalise with inside, it’s club underwear-as-outerwear; and music and cool clothes from Turkish – still nothing you designers Scandinavian but welcome here, could wear on the street night spots. at better cally designed, these separates for women in priced reasonably wool, silk and cotton are Eastern subtle Middle de- feature and often south, at 11 Sharia tails. two blocks A branch sizes. larger Sabry, stocks Hassan Sabry, Zamalek) range and in a great in design, but inexpensive long always a flattering There’s colours. of and men can cotton or linen skirt available, sport- polo shirts choose from a rainbow of through- stores are There ing a camel logo. out the city, including at the Nile Hilton and the Semiramis. .com; Sikket Cairo) al-Badistan, Islamic 1948, the Atlas family specialises in silk. Sold tween Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat and Sharia Khalek and Sharia Sarwat Abdel tween Sharia is crammed Midan Opera west of Adly just For imaginable. in everywith hijabs pattern by weight is sold and silver jewellery, gold in the rate the daily (check can antique silver for labour; plus a little extra easily is (and unfortunately expensive be quite Khan al-Khalili of the is still The centre faked). and where for gold and silver, main district with cartouche you should go for a custom listed The stores your name in hieroglyphics. bit different. something a offer here Brazil, Zamalek;

10am- h have the

(Map pp118-19 ; (Map pp118-19 ; El Kahhal Carpets is a great outlet is a great 2589 2747; 80 . % Ezbekiyya Book Market Ezbekiyya Book Market 2736 2582; 159 Sharia 26th 2737 0880; 6 Sharia % % Sawt al-Qahira , in the khan, has the finest (Map p129 ; p129 (Map 9am-11.30pm) CAIRO •• Shopping h 2590 9128; Sikket al-Badistan, Islamic Cairo; (Map pp144-5 ;

% (Map pp144-5 ; pp144-5 (Map L’Orientale/L’Orientaliste

, in an arcade set back from Sharia al- , in an arcade set back from Sharia – a musky moisturizer. – a Diwan 2392 1916; Midan Opera, Downtown; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) 2576 2440; www.orientalecairo.com; Shop 757, Basement, Shop 757, 2576 2440; www.orientalecairo.com; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm

The latest hit played in taxi cabs mightThe latest be Zakaria Rizk, ad prints Zamalek) From framed Arabic to escargot forks. Sharia al-Muizz li-Din Allah, Islamic Cairo) Immediately south of the Madrassa & Mausoleum of Qalaun. The more pops out. the dust, the more you look through the main avenues Downtown; the arcade be- the main avenues Egyptian-cotton clothing can be a good buy. Egyptian-cotton cruise(mostly polyester), local fashion For real h stock in the city, with both antiques imported made-to-order designs. and new Clothing & Jewellery by themselves. Super-elegant Super-elegant by themselves. (Map p129 ; section ( p176 ). The rugs and wall hangings at ). The rugs p176 section ( in a class ) are p151 Wissa Wassef Art Centre ( from Khan the places al-Khalili, or some of & Souvenirs mentioned in the Handicrafts shops in the tight squeeze of alleys behind shops in the tight alleys behind squeeze of Al-Ghouri, across the road the Mosque of hair Bedouin kilims with rugs, and flat-weave by numerous – all stocked patterns geometric rich tradition of Oriental carpet weaving. The Oriental carpet weaving. tradition of rich brown striped camel- standard products are Carpets & Rugs Carpets & Rugs has no or Iran, Egypt Morocco, Turkey Unlike % 11pm) kiosks selling these. (Map pp118-19 ; Ezbekiyya Gardens, Downtown) pp118-19 (Map Nil. The 50 or so stalls at h and the Middle East, books on Egypt for rare maps and engravings. as well as lithographs, Qasr el- a second at 15 Sharia shop There’s % Nile Hilton Shopping Mall, Corniche el-Nil, Downtown; For new books, look under Information under Information For new books, look ( p109 ). Books & CDs Books & CDs Nostalgia King Saleh Bazaar number tiles, stripednumber fragrant and blocks of lampshades ambar lonelyplanet.com Gomhurriya, stocks the classic crooners on crooners Gomhurriya, stocks the classic CD. The best music section outside the malls is at of July, Zamalek; of July, occasional treasures, but browsing the messy but browsing the messy occasional treasures, a chore. piles is only on cassette; for sidewalk look available CAIRO place specialises injewelleryandtraditional place specialises Saray al-Gezira, Zamalek; Saray al-Gezira, generating projects thecountry. throughout binding.com; 31 Sharia Mohammed Abduh,Islamic Cairo;binding.com; 31Sharia pp pp118–19 Hyatt (Map p148 ) andNile Hilton(Map Marriottin theCairo (Map pp144–5 ), Grand and ringthebell.There are smallerbranches Egyptian Water Worksoffice to the1stfloor chunky silver jewellery.Tofindit, gopastthe wovenin theoases, baskets, silk slippers and tablecloths andcushioncovers, dresses made itemsfrom Siwa. includeappliquéd Standout craftsand costumes,particularly Bedouin and prices are excellent. bedcovers andshawls are particularlylovely, beaded jewelleryfromAswan. Thecotton woven cotton,pottery fromAl-Fayoum and rugs,hand- includeBedouin Items forsale Fri) Yehia Zamalek; Ibrahim, % of Zuweila.Bab orShariaBarquq, AhmadMahir Pasha east north of theMadrassa &Mausoleum of sheesha but fragile),inlaidwoodandpapyrus.For quality. Expect andoften al-Khalili, pay inKhan withbetter Egyptian craftsfornotmuch more thanyou’d fixed-priceThese shops often stockfamiliar Handicrafts &Souvenirs ( right chunky Bedouin-style ) sell silver. Not cheap, but gorgeous work. stones andotherelegantbutmodernpieces. cading necklacestrimmedwithsemiprecious thelocaldesigner’sdelicate cas- showcases h Sayyedal-Bakry,Zamalek; .dinamaghawry.com; 1stfl,16Sharia café. the and perfume,great people-watching in Disproportionately huge of selection scarves brand. Prada etalalongsideitschic house stocking word inluxuryshopping inCairo, 11pm) City; at NilePlaza,1089Cornicheel-Nil,Garden handmade pottery from Al-Fayoum. and men’sapparel. There’s alsovery pretty 176 Craftssoldhere are produced inincome- Abd El Zaher Abd ElZaher Center/Fair TradeEgypt Crafts Egypt Dina Maghawry Nomad Both Nomad( below ) andOumElDounia Beymen 11am-9.30pm Sat-Thu, 3-9.30pmFri) 2736 5123; www.fairtradeegypt.org; 1st fl, 27 Sharia 1stfl,27Sharia 2736 5123;www.fairtradeegypt.org; ThisTurkish departmentstore isthelast AR • Sopn CAIRO ••Shopping fittings,visitthecopperdistrictjust

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muski h h % % % 10am-7pm) 9am-8pm Sat-Thu, 10am-6pm 2791 7000; Four Seasons Hotel 2791 7000;FourSeasons glass(gem-coloured 2736 1917; 1st fl, 14 Sharia 2736 1917;1stfl,14Sharia 2511 8041;www.abdelzaher % Thisboutique Thisgem of a 012 3223896;www Mp pp144-5; (Map h 10am- zoned withpopularEgyptian product logos. hipT-shirts andeven puppets, scarves embla- including woodenchests, jewellery,pottery, desirable jumbleof craftsfromall over Egypt, the Mosqueof IbnTulunisstacked witha Ibn Tulun; designed andmade in Egypt. tablecloths, jewellery,clothesandshawls, all array of very chic light-fittings, alabaster pots, This gorgeous store stocksanever-changing MohammedAbduh,IslamicCairo; .net; 3Sharia andEgypt, aswell Cairo as CDs. English- andFrench-language booksabout stocks asmallrange of maps,postcardsand broidered fittings.Italso shawlsandlight jewellery,cottonclothes,bags,em- Bedouin an attractive range of locally madeglassware, great central location,OumElDouniasells Talaatfl, 3Sharia Harb,Downtown; takes a few days. aroundE£15and your ownbookboundstarts intothem.Getting ering theworkthatgoes prices, which are heartbreakingly low,consid- Free goldmonogrammingisincludedinthe bound blankbooks,photoalbumsanddiaries. also makes beautifulleather- andoil-paper- h more rewarding toheadthe source:the street. main for theentrancedown alittlelanejustoffthe isupstairs. Look the city;really nicestuff of thebestdealers inbelly-dancingoutfits % ugees, prisoners andothers inneed of aid. towels –allworkdonebyorganisations of ref- blecloths, inlaycoasters andsilk-screened tea Marriott cotton bags,aprons,ta- Hotel sells h Zamalek; Lutfallah, Michel Saints AnglicanCathedral,5Sharia anddowna flights dim hallway.) you arrive withoutatout.(Theshopisuptwo negotiable, andquite reasonable, provided name doneinabout halfanhour. Pricesare skylines.He’llCairo doacartouche withyour lection, fromancientEgyptian scenestocool quality papyruspainting),Saidhasavastse- 9pm) IslamicCairo; li-Din Allah, al-Muizz 3rd fl,21Sharia Said DeltaPapyrus Center Al-Khatoun Oum ElDounia Mahmoud AbdElGhaffar Mahmoud Shop Wady Craft Khan Misr Touloun Misr Khan Appliqué work is one case whereAppliqué workis one case itcanbe 11am-9.30pm) 2589 7443; 73 Sharia Gawhar al-Qaid,IslamicCairo) Gawhar 2589 7443;73Sharia 9am-5pm) A spin-off of Dr Ragab (thefatherof of Aspin-off DrRagab h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) This charity store nexttothe Mp p133; (Map Cairo’s lastworkingbookbinder Cairo’s

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Thisshopopposite

(Al Wikalah; Map Map (Al Wikalah; p129 ; h % lonelyplanet.com % % 10am-7pm) 2365 2227; Midan 2365 2227;Midan 2393 8273;1st 2738 0826;All % h 2512 0747; h 11am-9pm) Ata One 10am- CAIRO

, , (hi- 2590 (Map 177 (chilli) % kuzbara kuzbara Cairo’s 2480 0500; 2480 0500;

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(Map pp144-5 ; Corniche el-Nil, Bulaq; ; Corniche el-Nil, Bulaq; pp144-5 (Map Karama Perfumes The biggest mall in central Cairo, mall in central The biggest , kamoon , kamoon 2512 6349; 1 Midan Bab al-Khalq, Islamic Cairo) (black pepper) and % 2735 4955; Sharia Hassan Assem, Zamalek) 10am-11pm) Citystars Centre CentreCitystars Arkadia Mall biscus). Buy whole spices, never ground, for and skip the ‘saffron’ freshness, – it’s really than dust. safflower little more of and tastes filfil iswid Tailoring Tailoring Cairo and skilled tailors, labour cheap Given suit. Bring a bespoke is a good place to get suit designs, as local tai- magazine clips of You may also always up on trends. aren’t lors need to bring your own fabric (at least 3m for pants, plus another metre and a pair of a jacket The shops that sell these also deal in items One henna, soaps and herbal treatments. place is interesting pp110-11 ; and medicinal plants; herbalist the sheikh of taxidermylook for the neglected in the window on the corner. % Shagaret Sharia but excellent shop, just west of around Midan Falaki The streets ad-Durr. also contain shops, as does several the large Khan al-Khalili. southwest corner of cities where you’ll find perfumers occupying you’ll find perfumers cities where good (and perfectly kiosks in the subway – thoughnonpushy) places to shop, you can special- at a few quality find somewhat better as ists, such essences;its own blends and basic look for the Sharia at the corner of open-sided corner shop places, ‘essences’al-Muizz. At less reputable oil – be sceptical if with vegetable diluted are a salesman rubs the scent furiously into your a sample. skin while applying Spices a good buy, particularly Spices are (coriander) Sharia ibn Khattab, Omar City; Nasr for landing spot is the current mall most lavish Starbucks from chain, every new international a kids’ theme park There’s to Wagamama. 12km east of It’s about and a big cinema. taxi ride. – a E£12 Downtown h All the usual arcade. and a top-floor with bars food court. brands, plus a good international Perfume the few scent, and this is one of adore Cairenes 2386; 112 Sharia al-Azhar, Islamic Cairo) popular with locals for scent copies as well as popular with locals for scent

2736 4827; 16 The main galabiyyas % 2393 6782; 114 Sharia 11am-8pm Mon-Thu & 11am-8pm Mon-Thu % h . (Map pp144-5 ;

(Souq Bulaq, Bulaq Market; Map

In the Southern Cemetery (Friday Market; Map pp110-11 ; Islamic pp110-11 (Friday Market; Map

CAIRO •• Shopping (Map p124 ; Sharia Mar Girgis, Old Cairo; p124 (Map

(Map pp118-19 ; . You can also find decent linens . You can also find decent Mounaya A new market built for tourists, built for tourists, A new market 6am-noon Fri)

h 8am-4pm) Souq al-Gomaa

Wikalat al-Balah Souq al-Fustat (especially on Sharia al-Wabur al-Fransawi). al-Wabur (especially on Sharia car parts Further in, you’ll find good textiles, military surplus. and draw is secondhand clothing, mostly well draw is secondhand clothing, mostly well prices clean and with marked organised, pp144-5 ; north of Sharia 26th of July, Bulaq) pp144-5 pleasantly low. this is nonetheless a nice collection of shops, this is nonetheless a nice collection of antique carpets, modern of with vendors embroidered ceramics, richly h (about E£12 from Downtown); tell the driver the driver (about E£12 from Downtown); tell the neighbourhood. ‘Khalifa’, the name of before 10am, when the crush of people can get can get people of 10am, when the crush before You’ll need there a taxi to get overwhelming. of and wooden toys along with branches ) and the bookbinders p175 Sami Amin ( is ). Sales pressure opposite El Zaher ( Abd broken telephones. Savvy pickers can find can find Savvy pickers telephones. broken duds. Go antiques and vintage some great market is all the craziness of a medieval bazaar is all the craziness of market in a modern setting: under a highway flyover, toilets and donkeys, expect new bicycles, live south of the Citadel, this sprawling weeklysouth of the older places. the one opens every couple of years, inevitably years, one opens every couple of away from drawing the crowds and shops interacting with locals in a lively public space. public space. with locals in a lively interacting crazy for malls, and a new also are Cairenes Street markets in Cairo are both social and in Cairo are markets Street and place for bargains functional – a great Mohammed Farid, Downtown) Farid, Mohammed Malls, Souqs & Markets for less than you’d pay at home at the frumpy for less than you’d pay at Galerie Hathout Sat, noon-8pm Fri) geous hand-embroidered sheets by and robes hand-embroidered geous at Malaika and towels, though little of it is turned into and towels, though little of exception is the gor- fine products locally. An Egyptian cotton is a badge of quality in sheets quality in sheets of cotton is a badge Egyptian (E£7 per metre). (E£7 Linens Household embroidered bedspreads, pillow covers and pillow covers bedspreads, embroidered as well as canvas-weight wall hangings, and thinner stampedstriped fabric cotton tent-makers bazaar, Sharia al-Khayamiyya Sharia bazaar, tent-makers shops sell intricately of scores ), where p134 ( lonelyplanet.com Cairo; Sharia Zamalek; Mohammed Anis, CAIRO mbl phone. mobile Prices start Prices start around E£1000. ofRome; hestocksasmallselection fabrics. % % Harb. sepa- maintains Theflashy new station fromTahrirpay E£5orsofor a taxi or Talaat minute walkfromtheOrabimetro stop–or Sharia GalaaandSharia 26thof July.It’safive- Bulaq) Turgoman Map al-Qahira, Garage; pp110-11 al-Gisr, ; Sharia is mainbusstation Cairo’s Bus EgyptAir EGYPTAIR OFFICES from alandlineinEgypt or informationcall For flight For informationontheairportsee p180 . CAIRO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT airline offices inCairo see p521 . see domestic flights p528 . Forinformationon For international airfare see details p521 ; for Air GETTING THERE&AWAY a magazine photo. toforeignused customers, andcanworkoff his skillstranscendthelanguage barrier. He’s Mr Ahmedistheleastconvenient option,but As speakEnglish orstockfabrics, hedoesn’t Adly,Downtown; Sharia areand Italy available here. Mohandiseen) 8.30pm Mon-Fri) Sarwat,Downtown; Abdel Khalek start at E£1800. get asuitmade. Butnotthecheapest: prices ric, thistrendy operationistheeasiestplaceto designsfromandadecentstockofselect fab- Ibn al-Nabieh,Zamalek; plusanotherdayfor week, final adjustments. Egyptian-made textiles. Allowthree daystoa ( below ); cheaper shopsonMidanOpera sell for extrapants).ThebestqualityisatSalem 178 ( % Talaat al-Bustan); Harb&Sharia Downtown % Salem Osman Ahmed Samir ElSakka Orange Square 2577 2410; Nile Hilton, 1113 2577 2410;NileHilton, Corniche el-Nil) Adly); 2392 7680;6Sharia 2748 9122; Cairo Sheraton, Midan el-Galaa); el-Galaa); 2748 9122;CairoSheraton,Midan 2391 9515; Midan Opera, Sharia al-Gomhuriyya); al-Gomhuriyya); Opera,Sharia 2391 9515;Midan , 1kmnorthwest of theintersection of AR • GtigTee&Aa There &Away CAIRO ••Getting (Map (Map pp118-19 ; Airport Mp pp144-5; (Map ThefinestsuitfabricsfromEngland This old-school tailor trainedin Thisold-school tailor ( % Mp pp118-19; (Map Mp pp144-5; (Map Mp pp118-19 ; (Map 2265 7256); h h % % noon-8pm) 10am-2pm &4-8pmMon-Sat) 3345 2232; 30 Sharia Libnan, 3345 2232;30Sharia Downtown 2393 0381; cnr Sharia 2393 0381;cnrSharia Downtown h Doqqi % % Cairo Gateway Gateway Cairo % % 10am-1.30pm &5.30- % Withbooksto 2735 2887; 4A Sharia 2735 2887;4ASharia 2392 6196; 31 Sharia 2392 6196;31Sharia (Map (Map p148 ; (Map (Map pp118-19 ; 27777 froma 012 3318622;18 (Map (Map pp118-19 ; 0900 77777 Downtown (Mina (Mina

E£15 in a taxi to E£15 inataxi the centre. stillgetyou might droppedhere –it’sabout toarrive,used andthere’s avery slimchance Abbassiyya) stophere enroute out services of Cairo. departfromhere, andsome other services a coupleof blocksnorth).Someinternational Merghani lineof theHeliopolis tramandwalk willcostE£30,oryoucantake the(a taxi station, about 800m. or youcanwalkfromSakiatMekki metro Village. willcostE£15fromDowntown, Ataxi PharaonicAzam andjustsouthof DrRagab’s the Gizacorniche after Sharia al- al-Bahr from Al-Fayoum terminate. Itislocated on stop, about 800m. can walkeastfromtheRodal-Farag metro (2kmtothesouth),oryou Midan Ramses here runbetween shuttletaxis andDelta; Shubra) revamped tohandle been more traffic: Gateway has nowthatCairo quently used Companies don’toffer student discounts. Alexandria andMarsa Matruh insummer. particularly forpopularroutes such asSinai, toadvance-bookIt isadvisable mosttickets, havemight todosomecomparison-shopping. rate windowsforeach buscompany,soyou just before the Giza– Fayoum road. Midan el-Remaya after the Pyramids Rdand more expensive. stopenroute at Thebuses hour 6amto7pm. Fares onThursday are E£1 in Giza,aswell fromAboud, half- every E£8, twohours) leave fromEl-Moneibstation forAl-Fayoum taxis (E£6to andservice Buses Al-Fayoum 9.45pm and 11.30pm. leave at7.30am,8.15am, 10.45am,3.15pm, toMarsa Matruh (E£50,five hours)Services VIP-class runat9.45amand12.45pm. buses past, 9.15pmto1.15am.Acoupleof extra 8.45pm; after that,departures goat15minutes at4.45amandrunningtill the hourstarting E£25, three hours) hourlyat45minutes past ( Gateway, From Cairo Alexandria &theMediterranean Coast AROUND EGYPT % Abbassiyya where El-Moneib isthesmallstation buses Aboud Al-Mazah isinHeliopolis neartheairport There are lessfre- fourotherbus stations, 2432 0049) is the starting point for buses tothe pointforbuses is thestarting

is where all of the services fromSinai is where allof theservices Mp p101 Sai El-Tir’a Sharia pp110-11; (Map travels toAlexandria(E£21

(Sinai Station; Map (Sinai Station;Map pp110-11 Ramses, ; Sharia West & Mid DeltaBusCo West &Mid lonelyplanet.com

El-Boulakia, El-Boulakia,

CAIRO

, 2575 179 Espani % Turbini 8am-8pm) h tourist information . (Map p180 ;

(Map p180 ; per piece per day p180 (Map 9am-7pm) is Cairo’s main train station. post office (Mahattat Ramses; Map p122 ; p122 (Mahattat Ramses; Map h

, a 24hr) left office luggage and leave at 9am, noon, 5pm, 6pm and and leave h (Map p180 ;

There are three Upper Egypt Bus Co serv- Bus Co Egypt Upper three are There For general details about the types of details about the types of For general Service taxis for Alexandria (E£17, 2½ to ALEXANDRIA ALEXANDRIA (1st/2nd class E£46/29, two hours). Second(1st/2nd class E£46/29, two hours). class as good as 1st class in mostin this train is about They depart from Cairoothers. at 8am, 2pm the and 7pm. The next best trains are Turbini Train Train Ramses Station 3555; Midan Ramses) It has a E£2.50; a pharmacy and a ATMs, office including student available, trains and tickets . Also try www.egyptrail p533 discounts, see may be running fully by the which .gov.eg, this. read time you The best trains running between Cairo and the air-conditioned Alexandria are (Spanish) services, cost the same which as the INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL busesFor information about to Libya, Israel . p524 and Jordan see Service Taxi Most service taxis from lots around depart Ramses Station and Midan Ulali (see Map ). Delta and Suez services from just leave p122 Orabi, Sharia Midan Ulali, east of north of running to destinations including Suez (E£7, and Port one hour), Ismailia (E£8, 1½ hours) two hours). Said (E£15, Ramses from south of Station leave hours) three bus (E£17) waits in ), and one large p122 (Ma Both depart everythe skinny lane just behind. has air-conditioning. hour or so; the bus Western Oases Oases Western from Cairo Oases All Western buses leave to Siwa you must to get that Note Gateway. Matruh, or Marsa a bus to Alexandria take to the onwards. For journeys and then another as sometimes theseoases food and water take for breaks. usefulbuses anywhere don’t stop to Bahariyyaices per day four hours) (E£25, and Dakhla at 7am, 8am (E£56, 10 hours) 6pm busesand 6pm. The 7am and stop in (E£40, seven bus runs Another hours). Farafra at 9.30pm eight (E£51, to Al-Kharga hours) and 10pm. has 2574 2814) buses depart %

( has services to Sharm 2576 0261) % (

CAIRO •• Getting & Away There 2290 9017) % (

Superjet There are Upper Egypt Travel services Travel Upper Egypt are There Upper Egypt Travel & Tourism Co runs Travel Upper Egypt There are three daily buses three Nuweiba to are There East Delta Travel & Tourism Co on to Marsa Alam (E£86, 10½ hours). Alam (E£86, on to Marsa 1.30pm, 6.30pm, 8pm, 10pm and 11pm. The 1.30pm, 6.30pm, 8pm and 11pm services go running to Al-Quseir (E£76, nine hours) at running to Al-Quseir (E£76, nine hours) 5pm, 6.30pm, 8pm, 9pm and 10pm services 7½ hours). go on to Safaga (E£71, parting at 8am, 9.30am, noon, 1.30pm, 3pm, 5pm, 6.30pm, 8pm, 9pm, 10pm, 11pm, 11.30pm, 12.30am and 1am. The 1.30pm, to Hurghada (E£56 to E£61, six hours) de- (E£56 to E£61, six hours) to Hurghada 2.30pm and 11.45pm. 2.30pm Red Sea Sea Red Superjet departs from Cairo for Gateway at 7.30am, (E£60, six hours) Hurghada the train. 9pm; the 5pm bus goes on to Aswan (E£91, 9pm; the 5pm bus goesAswan on to off getting better much You’re 12 hours). from Cairo Gateway. There’s one daily serv-from Cairo There’s Gateway. at 5pm and ice to Luxor (E£91, nine hours) Luxor & Aswan & Aswan Luxor Upper Egypt Travel between 6am and 9.30am and then every between 6am and 9.30am and then every until 9.30pm. hour (E£16, three hours) leave every 30 minutes every 30 minutes leave hours) (E£16, three All Suez buses Cairo depart from Gateway. & Tourism Co travels East Delta Travel and Suez to Ismailia (E£7.25, 2½ hours) be- every 30 minutes (E£7.25, 1½ hours) tween 6am and 8pm. Buses to Port Said Suez Canal Suez Canal el-Sheikh at 7.30am, 3.15pm, 10.45pm (all el-Sheikh 10.45pm (all at 7.30am, 3.15pm, 11.15pm (E£70). and E£80, six hours) Katherine’s Monastery leaves at 10.30am at 10.30am leaves Monastery Katherine’s 7½ hours). (E£37, to E£80, nine hours), leaving at 6.30am, at 6.30am, leaving to E£80, nine hours), A daily service9.30am and 10.15pm. to St (E£70 to E£80, eight hours) and Taba (E£70 and Taba (E£70 to E£80, eight hours) and 12.15am. 3pm, 7pm, 11pm, 11.30pm, midnight,3pm, 7pm, 1am nine Dahab (E£67 to E£80, and 1.45am. servicehours) goes 1pm, 5pm at 7.15am, services (E£60 el-Sheikh to Sharm running to E£70, seven10am, at 6.30am, hours) return to Abbassiyya, stopping at Al-Mazah stopping at Al-Mazah to Abbassiyya, return en route. Sinai Sinai Cairo from but busesAll Sinai Gateway, leave lonelyplanet.com CAIRO want to sleep want tosleep later. ToeitherLuxororAswan, beidealifyou it’sslower,butitmight cause try tosteer peopleawayfromthistrainbe- in Luxorand9.45amAswan; theagents andarrivingat6.30am 9.10pm fromRamses There car,departingat isalsoathirdsleeping latter traingets inabout 40minutes behind. Luxor at5amandinAswan at8.05am.The at fewer townsalongtheway,arrivingin 8.25pm and8.45pmdaily.Theformerstops only). (Visa only) or,forasmallsurcharge, credit card takeoffices paymentincash(eurosordollars daysinadvance. The you shouldbookseveral (fromabout October toApril) season high beforebe purchased inthe 6pm,although credit cards.Tickets travel forsame-day must h but thelarger of entrance,trailer totheright thestation ticketsyou canpurchase ina attheoffice pp110–11 nexttotheGizametrostop; ), right Upper Egypt departsfrom to The excellentovernight wagons-litservice LUXOR &ASWAN discounts are available on all tickets. 9.30am, 11am,3.10pm,4pmand8pm.Student E£35/19, three hours) leave at6am,8.15am, known asthe andDamanhuraswell.Slowertrains Benha while theothers stopatTanta andsometimes 10.30pm; the9amand6pmtrainsgodirect, 180 Office RAMSES TRAINSTATION The sleeping car services departGizaat carservices The sleeping 8.30am-9pm) AR • GtigAon Around CAIRO ••Getting

Abela SleepingTrain to Alexandria, Mp p180; (Map Class Tickets To MetroStation(75m); 2nd &3rd & Ismailia Port Said Midan Ramses(175m) Tourist Office Ticket Office & Police keeps longer hours andcantake Tickets toAswan 1st &2ndClass Francese % Forecourt 1st ClassTickets Abela Egypt SleepingTrain Abela Egypt Station to Alexandria 2574 9274;www.sleepingtrains.com; & Luxor Centrale Telephone Platform 8(TrainstoAswan&Luxor) (French; 1st/2ndclass Tickets toAswan 2nd &3rdClass Railways Museum(75m) Information Café & Luxor Giza Station To EgyptianNational (Trains toAlexandria) Café Not toScale Pharmacy Post Office Platform 4 (Map

Luggage Ticket Ticket Left Ain Shams station, 15km northeast of Ramses Ain Shams of 15kmnortheast station, Ramses 4.15pm and6.45pm–buttheygoonlyfrom are departures at6.30am,9.20am,1.10pm, For Suez(2ndclassE£18,2½hours), there 2.35pm, 5.45pm(Ismailiaonly)and7.10pm. to three hours) leave at8.45am,12.30pm, four hours) andIsmailia(E£11toE£14,2½ Trains toPortSaid(2ndclassE£18,3½ SUEZ CANAL ple of days in advance. hall. Youmustbuyyourtickets atleastacou- on theothersideof thetracksfrommain the windowsbesideplatform11(Map p122 ), from canbebought Tickets services onthese counts of 30%are available inbothclasses. 10 hours; toAswan, around12.Studentdis- to Aswan, E£94/47.ThetriptoLuxortakes To Luxor,1st/2ndclassfares are E£78/42; 996, at10pm;andtrain1902,12.30am. dailyat7.30am;train 980, departingRamses can travel toLuxorandAswan onlyontrain breakfast. and The priceincludesanaeroplane-styledinner later thismustbespecifiedwhenbooking. at LuxorandcontinuetoAswan afew days no studentdiscounts.Ifyouwish toget off US$45 forkidsages fourto10.There are double cabin,US$80inasinglecabinand tickets costUS$60perperson one-wayina Airlines. Under construction atthetimeof international carriers except SaudiArabian andTerminalmestic flights all 2services EgyptAir’s international anddo- 1 services 20km northeastof thecitycentre. Terminal on thenortheastern fringes of Heliopolis, Terminal 1 Airport International Cairo To/From theAirport better. be thebusorexcellentmetrocan which case travel –in –tothePyramids,say anydistance cheap, thefare although canmountupifyou are taxis ByWestern standards, verytaxis. jority of Cairenes, anyonewithmeanstakes most commonformof transport forthema- are andminibuses the buses Overcrowded trains. non-air-con andmore thantheefficient, comfortable routes are common,sogoingbybusismore but accessibleviathemetro. Delaysonthese GTIG AROUND GETTING Aside train,foreigners fromthesleeping ( % 2265 5000); Terminal 2

(www.cairo-airport.com) (www.cairo-airport.com) ( lonelyplanet.com % 2265 2222) is CAIRO 181 bus is invariably fascinating. For any In the traffic-free early hours of the morn- of early hours In the traffic-free PLAYING CHICKEN IN CAIRO CAIRO IN CHICKEN PLAYING chal- silly, but the greatest It may sound is cross- face in Egypt lenge most travellers always Roads are in Cairo. ing the street some- and road rules are frantically busy of, has heard Cairene average thing that the is to position Our advice but only in jokes. locals forms one or more yourself so that between you and oncoming traf- a buffer they do – they fic, and then cross when used as human usually don’t mind being to trust the cars Basically, you have shields. once hesitate ever will avoid you – never, cross off the sidewalk, and stepped you’ve do it fast! as if you own the road. But Nonetheless, the view from a window Nonetheless, the view from a window Car Car Driving in Cairo can’t in any way be recommended – not only is it harrowing, but you’re hideously only contributing to the already ably by metro and/or taxi. Signs are in Arabic in Arabic ably by metro and/or taxi. Signs are to know your numerals. only, so you’ll have the city’s any of is no known map of There bus routes. seat on Moniem Riad, at the central Midan Abdel serv- Museum, where behind the Egyptian in the everywhere for just about ices leave hub is Midan Ataba (seecity; another major ). Just pick a neighbourhood pp118–19 Map to stand. Tickets and ask bystanders where cost between 50pt and E£2 depending on dis- (mint-green air-con tance and whether there’s for additional above it). See have buses often bus tips. ing (when so many flights seem the to arrive), At journey to central Cairo 20 minutes. takes an hour, the day it can take busier times of Uruba. Sharia trafficwith the worst on Bus & Minibus Cairo is thoroughly served by a network lumbering sardine-cans-on-wheels of and minibusessmaller, shuttle-size (on which, no standing allowed), there’s theoretically, uses for them: will find only a few but visitors trip to the good for a slow but cheap they’re Pyramids or from the airport, but elsewhere efficiently and comfort- more you can travel general take-me-anywhere sightseeing, take-me-anywhere startgeneral CAIRO •• Getting Around If you arrive at Terminal 1, you’ll see the at Terminal If you arrive Air-con bus 356 (E£2, plus E£1 per large bus 356 (E£2, plus E£1 per large Air-con If you don’t want to bargain and would pre- If you don’t want to bargain a long international flight.international a long lot to be said for this option, particularly after lot to be said for this option, particularly after fer a clean and comfortable ride, head for the fer a you can organise where limousine counter, a E£60 to E£75. There’s price of car at a fixed away can sometimes bring the price down. is an there as fare, the agreed Triple-check to nod at what irritating for drivers tendency later. fare you say and claim a higher ter to get away from the arrivals hall and all to get ter talking anyone, as walking to the touts before pay E£5 to enter the airport grounds.) It’s bet- pay E£5 to enter the metered yellow cabs ( p183 ) are seldom are ) p183 yellow cabs ( the metered to the seen the trip. (Heading at this end of one of you can get airport from the centre, down to a black-and-white these, or bargain must E£35, taking into account that drivers The going rate for a taxiThe going rate from the airport to central Cairo is E£45 to E£60; unfortunately TAXI you can change if necessary. if you By the time you can change well 3 may very this, though, Terminal read the buses will and presumably be complete, between Terminals stop in the parking area and 3. 2 here; it will carry on to Terminal 1, where 1, where it will carry on to Terminal here; of Terminal 3, buses are bypassing Terminal Terminal bypassing 3, buses are Terminal of 2, so the situation is trickier: a shuttle catch running bus to the car park (clearly marked, constantly), then cross the road and walk left Flag down any bus from to the bus shelter. bus parking area to the side of the arrivals hall, to the side of bus parking area During the construction beyond the Air Mall. (6am to midnight) the 24-hour bus 400 and (both 50pt). minals may be restored by the end of 2008). by the end of minals may be restored Less minibus 27 comfortable are options Museum) in central Cairo and Terminal 1 at Museum) in central Cairo and Terminal 2007; servicethe airport (as of to both ter- tervals from 7am to midnight between Midan the Egyptian (behind Moniem Riad Abdel luggage item, one hour) runs at 20-minute in- one hour) runs at 20-minute item, luggage is no bus to the city centre – there are two, two, are – there the city centre is no bus to a minibus. plus BUS BUS you that there Don’t believe who tells anyone You’ll find ATMs and exchange booths in all booths and exchange You’ll find ATMs arrivals halls. writing, Terminal 3 (immediately adjacent to adjacent 3 (immediately Terminal writing, in 2008. sometime is due to open 2) Terminal lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Corniche el-Nil) Downtown to ridein this carriage, make sure you’re stand- forwomen.Ifyouwant each trainisreserved 11.30pm. until fiverun every minutes orso fromaround6am feed intothe turnstile onthewayout.Trains E£1 toanystop;keep yourticket handyto with abigred ‘M’inabluestar. Tickets cost Metro map, p182 . theCairo enroute. OperaHouse See Cairo connects Shubra withGiza,stopping atthe of Helwan uptoAl-Marg; line thesecond stretches for43kmfromthesouthernsuburb mainline ‘under construction’.The35-station operation, withafabledthirdlineperpetually to 6pm),nottoocrowded.Twolinesare in outside rush hours (7amto9amand3pm public places.It’salsoinexpensive and, tions are cleanerthanmanyof other Cairo’s The andthesta- metro is blissfully efficient Metro arrive. you much better organising off viathewebbefore local dealers isvirtuallyimpossible. Youare tional charges andfindingacheap dealwith The rates of biggunsmatch interna- these Hertz Europcar Budget Avis options: major a caristodrive directly outof the city.The The onlyreason rent weexpectyoumight HIRE ing inEgypt see p529 . is throwninto the mix. experienced driver –like perhaps yourself, – road rage. Things onlygoawrywhenanin- type of provoke drivingthatelsewhere might look outforeach otherandare tolerantof the driversBut Cairo dohave roadrules:they exclusively forflashingoncomingvehicles. somedriversAt night theirheadlights use cretionary unlessenforcedbyapoliceman. and brakes are are lights dis- scorned;traffic markingsareclogged streets. ignored Lane 182 1113 Corniche el-Nil) Downtown The first (andoften carriage on second) Metro are stations easilyidentifiedbysigns For more informationabout cars anddriv- (www.avisegypt.com) (www.hertzegypt.com) (www.hertzegypt.com) AR • GtigAon Around CAIRO ••Getting ( (Map (Map pp118-19 ; % Mp pp118-19; (Map ( % 2265 2395;CairoAirport) 2267 2439;Terminal 1,CairoAirport) Airport % % Airport 2575 8914; Ramses Hilton, Hilton, 2575 8914;Ramses 2579 2400; Nile Hilton, 2579 2400;NileHilton, ( % ( % 2265 4249); 2265 2430); won’t hangaroundlongin the station. ing where thefrontof thetrainwillstop,asit pp118–19 ) isatMaspero, on theCorniche The Downtown river-bus terminal (Map River Bus is always done scrupulously). and receiving yourchange way(which thesame quires passingyourmoneytopassengers ahead ThisoftenE£2, paidafter youtake yourseat. re- Fares from50ptto varyaccordingtodistance, transit hubtotheCitadel. Aisha, theclosest terminals are andinSayyida nearMidanAtaba there are free, it’llstop.Some microbus seats terminal. Ifit’sgoingwhere youwanttogoand off therunningboardyelling time,akidisusuallyleaning tion. Atthesame and, asoneapproaches, yelloutyourdestina- beside theroadthatleadswhere youwanttogo atfirst.use Tocatch a tions are marked, which canmake themhardto Nodestina- andminibuses. than publicbuses ( Increasingly private Cairenes microbuses use Microbus (Al-Gamaa) meekro) University El-Moneib THE CAIROMETRO Cairo Giza Behoos Sakiat Mekki Helwan University Giza Suburban Hadayek Helwan Faisal Doqqi – small vans with 10 or so seats – rather –rather – smallvanswith10orsoseats Tura al-Esment Tura al-Balad Koleyet al-Zeraah Helwan (Midan Rod al-Farag (Opera) Tahrir) Sadat Gezira St Theresa Nasser Khalafawi Shubra al-Kheima Mazallat Orabi Misarra Dar as-Salaam Hadayek al-Ma'adi Al-Zahraa Ma'adi Mar Girgis Al-Malek as-Saleh Ain Helwan Sakanat al-Ma'adi Wadi Hof Kozzika Al-Maasara Sayyida Zeinab Saad Zaghloul Mohammed Naguib meekro, Mubarak (MidanRamses) Ataba Kobri al-Kobba Ghamra Helmiet al-Zeitoun Saray al-Kobba Al-Demerdash Ezbet al-Nakhl position yourself positionyourself lonelyplanet.com Manshiyet al-Sadr meekro New Al-Marg al-Kobba Hammamat al-Zeitoun Hadayek Al-Matariya Ain Shams Al-Marg ’s end ’s end CAIRO s 183 ahwa Destination Fare (E£) a drawn into so it’s important not to get some Following are fare. the dialogue over from Downtown: sample fares Destination Fare Airport (45-60 airport to Downtown) Cairo Gateway The Citadel Heliopolis Khan al-Khalili Midan Ramses The Pyramids Zamalek 30-35 5 12 10-15 6 4 25 6 a collection of transcribed conversations with Cairo cab drivers. The The drivers. cab with Cairo conversations transcribed a collection of Taxi, English translation is available from Aflame Books in the UK (www.aflamebooks.com). from Aflame available is English translation CAIRO •• Getting Around If you feel like the city is too much for you, the solution is very simple: take a felucca ride ride simple: take a felucca like the city is too much for you, the solution is very If you feel Author of the 2007 best-seller of the 2007 Author Don’t rely on your first impression of Cairo, where traffic lanes don’t count, car horns are inescap- traffic lanes don’t count, car horns are where of Cairo, on your first impression Don’t rely left unfinished so the owners they like are and buildings anywhere able, people cross the street is one of a kind. look at its details, it really If you to pay taxes. don’t have Al-Azhar Park ( p140 ) is situated in the middle of the city and it overlooks the Citadel and Egypt’s the Citadel and Egypt’s in the middle of the city and it overlooks ) is situated p140 ( Al-Azhar Park air. fresh You can actually breathe old mosques. hard to like at first. Any advice? think a lot of visitors find it very the city… I Back to loving Do you have a place you like to relax? Do you have So what’s your favourite historic building? historic So what’s your favourite architecture. ) – it’s the Pyramids of Islamic p137 mosque ( Sultan Hassan The and ahwas? How about restaurants for food. As Egyptian because it serves is my favourite ) in Zamalek great p166 Abou El Sid ( Every corner of the city conveys the aura of the ancient Egyptian civilisation, the old Coptic civilisation, the old Coptic ancient Egyptian the aura of the of the city conveys corner Every In Cairo Mohammed Ali Pasha. period after and the enlightenment civilisation, Islamic history you walk in history. That’s such a Cairene answer! What do you love best about it? What do you love answer! such a Cairene That’s How has the city changed? into squatter- it has expanded more and much uglier, dirtier has become polluted, Cairo and more the remains in my eyes, Cairo Yet, disappeared. splendour that used to be has The type cities. world. most beautiful city in the You’re a Cairo native, right? native, a Cairo You’re for four years in – except my whole life there lived and have Downtown Cairo I was born in have as if you you feel in a city like Cairo But when you live at the Sorbonne. PhD France, for my since your birth. of years, and not only in it for thousands lived KHALED AL-KHAMISI AL-KHAMISI KHALED (coffeehouses), definitely Fishawi’s ( p169 ) in Al-Hussein. Even though it has a touristy feel, it still it still though it has a touristy feel, ) in Al-Hussein. Even p169 ( Fishawi’s definitely (coffeehouses), memories. Egypt’s chair in it represent wall and every has its beauty and its history. Every parallel to paradise. ) on the Nile at sunset, and you will find yourself in a world p154 ( the seed of doubt that you’ve paid too little, paid too little, the seed doubt that you’ve of ing adequately. Given how cheap the fares the fares how cheap Given ing adequately. words plant a cabbie can with a few are, are unmetered, and navigating the system the system and navigating unmetered, are pay- the confidence that you are requires screeching halt with the slightest wave of of wave slightest halt with the screeching taxis your hand. Standard black-and-white Aside from the midafternoon rush, taxis taxis rush, from the midafternoon Aside and will come to a available readily are takes 50 minutes and the fare is E£1. and the fare 50 minutes takes Taxi depart at 8am, 2pm and 9pm for Manial, Giza depart at 8am, 2pm and 9pm for Manial, and Misr al-Qadima (Old Cairo). The trip in front of the big round TVin front of building. Boats lonelyplanet.com CAIRO © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake cently, withthearrivalof and-white etiquette taxi see p532 . bargaining skills.Forinformationonblack- E£15 andE£25perhour,dependingonyour foralonger Hiring ataxi periodrunsbetween 184 But there alife-changing has been shift re- tures toUpperEgypt. House, closesttoZamalek. Railway Station. Railway Sadat Nasser Mubarak Mohammed Naguib Mar Girgis Giza Gezira (Opera) Ataba STATIONSUSEFUL METRO Museum. Palace ofIslamicArt. andtheMuseum closest toDowntownnightlife. AR • GtigAon Around CAIRO ••Getting Connected totheGizatrainstation,fordepar- Connected al-Khalili. The closeststoptoKhan Beneath Midan Tahrir, closetotheEgyptian Beneath Midan Sharia 26th of July and Sharia Ramses; Ramses; 26thofJulyandSharia Sharia Beneath Midan Ramses and Ramses andRamses Ramses Beneath Midan InthemiddleofCopticCairo. UnderneaththeCairoOpera ClosetotheAbdeen yellow taxis (

% 19730, i blue). in Aziz Fahmy (westside,pastMerryland; sign (heads furthereast;signinyellow)andAbdel al-Ahram; signwritten inred), Al-Mirghani centralHeliopolisNouzha (through onSharia p153 ), atwhich pointitdividesintothree – on thesouthernedge of Heliopolis Map (see Map(see p122 toMidanRoxy ); thelinegoes The terminal isjustnorthof MidanRamses toHeliopolisCairo (25pt,30to45minutes). rattly old-fashioned tramsrunfromcentral Known toCairenes, confusingly,as‘metros’, Tram appreciate a10% orso tip, though). actually workoutmore cheaply (drivers still theycan a triptothePyramids,forinstance, black-and-whites butfor forshort distances, mum charge of E£3.50,they’re pricierthan the southsideof MidanTahrir. With amini- but youcanalwaysget onefromtherankon aren’t of enough themtohailinthestreet, meters.conditioning andalwaysuse There 16516) , which canbecalledahead,have air- lonelyplanet.com © Lonely Planet Publications 185 Egyptian Museum The Egyptian Museum is one of the world’s most important museums of ancient history and one of its great spectacles. Here, the treasures of Tutankhamun lie alongside the grave goods, mummies, jewellery, eating bowls and toys of Egyptians whose names are lost to history. To walk around the museum is to embark on an adventure through time. The museum has its origins in the work of French archaeologist Auguste Mariette. The Egyptian ruler Mohammed Ali had banned the export of antiquities in 1835. In 1858, his successor Said Pasha allowed Mariette to create the Egyptian Antiquities Service and to base its activities around a new museum in Bulaq, which was moved to the current purpose-built museum in 1902. The number of exhibits long ago outgrew the available space and the place is virtually bursting at the seams. Many stories are told about the The design for the museum’s basement store, some of whose sculptures have now sunk into planned Grand Museum the soft flooring and are currently being excavated. A ‘Grand Museum of of Egypt features a spec- Egypt’ has been planned, close to the Pyramids in Giza, but progress has tacular alabaster façade been very slow and it is unlikely to open before 2012. When it does, many that will be illuminated of the museum’s highlights will be relocated to a state-of-the-art facility at night. whose advantages will include climate control, something sorely lacking in the current building. Until 1996, museum security involved locking the door at night. When an enterprising thief stowed away overnight and helped himself to treasures, the museum authorities installed alarms and detectors, at the same time improving the lighting on many exhibits. Some improvements have since been made to display cases, but much of the collection remains in early-20th-century cases with poor or nonexistent labels. This, together with the enormity of the collection and the fact that it is arranged chronologically, means that one of the most rewarding ways of visiting is simply to walk around and see what catches your eye. There’s no missing the highlights – they usually have crowds around them – but be sure to stop and see some of the lesser items, all of which will help bring the world of the pharaohs back to life. PRACTICALITIES Don’t hope to see everything in the Egyptian Museum (Map p187 ; %575 4319; www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg; Midan Tahrir, Downtown; adult/student E£50/25; h9am-6.45pm) Despite the enormous in one go. It simply cannot be done. Instead, plan on making at least two international fanfare visits, maybe tackling one floor at a time, or decide on the things you surrounding the design absolutely must see and head straight for them. In peak season (much of for the planned Grand winter and all public holidays), there’s no best time to visit as the museum Museum of Egypt, the heaves with visitors throughout the day, although lunchtime and late af- Egyptian government has ternoons can be a little quieter. yet to raise or allocate the There are several queues to brave before entering, which in peak season estimated US$500 million often start to form an hour before opening time. At busy periods, the needed for its construc- fivefold admission procedure is as painfully slow as it sounds: tion. You can follow its queue near the gate to pass through a metal detector and have your progress through the bags X-rayed museum’s website, www queue at the booth to your right to buy a ticket .gem.gov.eg. queue at the cloak room on the left to leave bags, cameras and videos 186 EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Highlights of the Egyptian Museum lonelyplanet.com

queue at the automatic ticket barriers to enter the building queue inside for a second metal detector and have your bags searched again.

Note that the Royal Mummy Room (adult/student E£100/50, tickets from museum upper fl, beside Room 50; h9am-6.20pm) closes before the rest of the museum. Official guides can usually be found near the gate or after the cloakroom and will take you around for upwards of E£60 per hour. You can also rent audioguides inside (E£30) in English, Arabic and French, although with at least three different numbering systems in use, it isn’t always easy to match the item to the commentary. HIGHLIGHTS OF THE EGYPTIAN MUSEUM www.egyptianmuseum The following are our favourite, must-see exhibits, for which you need at .gov.eg is the Egyptian least a half-day, but preferably a little more. Museum’s own website. Tutankhamun Galleries (1st fl; p191 ) It has a games section Old Kingdom Rooms (Ground fl, Rooms 42, 37 & 32; opposite ) where you can play with Amarna Room (Ground fl, Room 3; p189 ) falling lotuses, work with Royal Tombs of Tanis (1st fl, Room 2; p193 ) hieroglyphs and complete Royal Mummy Room (1st fl, Room 56; p190 ) a Tutankhamun puzzle. Graeco-Roman Mummies (1st fl, Room 14; p193 ) Yuya & Thuyu Rooms (1st fl, Room 43; p193 ) Ancient Egyptian Jewellery (1st fl, Room 4; p193 ) Animal Mummies (1st fl, Rooms 53 & 54; p194 ) Pharaonic Technology (1st fl, Room 34; p193 ) MUSEUM TOUR: GROUND FLOOR Before entering the museum, wander through the garden; to your left lies the tomb of Mariette (1821–81), with a statue of the man, arms folded, shaded under a spreading tree. Mariette’s tomb is overlooked by an arc of busts of two dozen Egyptological luminaries including Champollion, who cracked the code of hieroglyphs; Maspero, Mariette’s successor as director of the Egyptian Antiquities Service; and Lepsius, the pre-eminent 19th- century German Egyptologist. The ground floor of the museum is laid out roughly chronologically in a clockwise fashion starting at the entrance hall. For room numbers see Map p187 . ROOM 43 – ATRIUM As you enter the museum, the central atrium is filled with a miscellany of large and small Egyptological finds. In the area before the steps lie some of the collection’s oldest items. In the central cabinet No 8, the double-sided Narmer Palette is of great significance. Dating from around 3100 BC it depicts Pharaoh Narmer (also known as Menes) wearing the crown of Upper Egypt on one side of the palette, and the crown of Lower Egypt on the other, suggesting the first union of Upper and Lower Egypt under one ruler. Egyptologists take this as the birth of ancient Egyptian civilisation and his reign as the first of the 1st dynasty. This, then, is the starting point of more than 3000 years of Pharaonic history in which more than 170 rulers presiding over 30 dynasties and during which time almost everything in this building was fashioned. Seen like this, the Narmer Palette, found at the Temple of Horus in Kom al-Ahmar near Edfu, is the keystone of the Egyptian Museum. lonelyplanet.com EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: Ground Floor 187

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

Temporary Exhibitions Basement

Ground Floor First Floor

NEW KINGDOM Exit NW Stairs NE Stairs NW Stairs NE Stairs 1 5 1 35 3 2 4

Entrance 6 7 8 9 10 6 7 8 9 10

11 12 13 14 15 11 12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19 20 16 17 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 21 22 24 25 MIDDLE KINGDOM 26 27 28 29 30 26 27 29 30 Entrance to the Atrium Temporary 31 32 33 34 35 31 32 34 35

Exhibitions Basement LATE PERIOD 36 37 38 39 40 36 37 39 40 Ticket Box for Mummy SW 41 42 43 44 45 SE SW 41 42 43 44 45 Room

Stairs OLD KINGDOM Stairs Stairs 48 48 46 47 49 50 51 51 46 47 49 50 51

Library 53 54 55 56 SE Gift Shop & Stairs Bookshop Entrance Cafeteria Tourist Police

ROOM 48 – EARLY DYNASTIC PERIOD In glass cabinet No 16 is the limestone statue of Zoser (Djoser), the 3rd-dynasty pharaoh, whose chief architect Imhotep designed the revolutionary Step Pyramid at Saqqara. The statue, discovered in 1924 in its serdab (cellar) The Egyptian Government in the northeastern corner of the pyramid, is the oldest statue of its kind established the Service in the museum. The seated, near-life-size figure has lost its original inlaid des Antiques de l’Egypte eyes, but is still impressive in a tight robe and striped headcloth over a in 1835 to halt the plun- huge wig. dering of archaeological sites and to arrange ROOMS 47 & 46 – OLD KINGDOM the exhibition of all the Look for the three exquisite black schist triads that depict the pharaoh Menkaure artefacts it owned. Its (Mycerinus), builder of the smallest of the three Pyramids of Giza, flanked most enduring legacy is either side by a female figure. The hardness of the stone makes the sculptor’s this museum. skill all the greater and has helped ensure the triads’ survival through the ages. The figure to the pharaoh’s right is the goddess Hathor, while each of the figures on his left represents a nome (district) of Egypt, the name of which is given by the symbol above their head. These triads (plus one other that is not held by this museum) were discovered at the pharaoh’s valley temple, just east of his pyramid at Giza. ROOMS 42, 37 & 32 – MASTERPIECES OF THE OLD KINGDOM In the centre of Room 42 is one of the museum’s masterpieces, a smooth, black, dioritic, larger-than-life-size statue of Khafre (Chephren). The builder of the second pyramid at Giza sits on a lion throne, and is protected by the wings of the falcon god Horus. The choice of stone, which is harder than marble or granite, suggests the pharaoh’s power and yet this is the 188 EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: Ground Floor lonelyplanet.com

only survivor out of 23 identical pieces from the pharaoh’s valley temple on the Giza Plateau. Slightly to the left in front of Khafre, the core of the stunning wooden statue of Ka-Aper (No 40) was carved out of a single piece of sycamore (the arms were ancient additions, the legs modern restorations). The sycamore was sacred to the goddess Hathor, while Ka-Aper’s belly suggest his prosperity. His eyes are amazingly lifelike, set in copper lids with whites of opaque quartz and corneas of rock crystal, drilled and filled with black paste to form the pupils. When this statue was excavated at Saqqara in 1860, local workmen named him Sheikh al-Balad (Headman), for his resemblance to their own headman. Nearby sits the Seated Scribe (No 44), a wonderful painted limestone figure, hand poised as if waiting to take dictation, his inlaid eyes set in an asymmetrical face giving him a very vivid appearance. Room 32 is dominated by the beautiful statues of Rahotep and Nofret (No 27), a noble couple from the reign of Sneferu, builder of the Bent and the Red Pyramids at Dahshur. Almost life-sized with well-preserved painted surfaces, The Illustrated Guide to the limestone sculptures’ simple lines make them seem almost contemporary, the Egyptian Museum despite having been around for a staggering 4600 years. in Cairo is written In a cabinet off to the left, a limestone group shows Seneb, ‘chief of the by Zahi Hawass, the royal wardrobe’ and his family (No 39). Seneb is notable for being a dwarf: secretary-general of he sits cross-legged, his two children strategically placed where his legs would Egypt’s Supreme Council otherwise have been. His full-size wife Senetites places her arms protectively of Antiquities, and and affectionately around his shoulders. Rediscovered in their tomb in Giza published by the excel- in 1926, the happy couple and their two kids have more recently been used lent American University in Egyptian family- planning campaigns. in Cairo Press. Available Also here is a panel of Meidum Geese (No 138), part of an extraordinarily all over the city, it costs beautiful wall painting from a mud-brick mastaba at Meidum, near the E£150 and features colour oasis of Al-Fayoum (see p207 ). Painted around 2600 BC, the pigments photographs and useful remain vivid and the degree of realism (while still retaining a distinct itineraries. Pharaonic style) is astonishing – ornithologists have had no trouble iden- tifying the species. Room 37, entered via Room 32, contains furniture from the Giza Plateau tomb of Queen Hetepheres, wife of Sneferu and mother of Khufu (Cheops), including a carrying chair, bed, bed canopy and a jewellery box. Her mummy has not been found, but her shrivelled internal organs remain inside her Canopic chest. A glass cabinet holds a miniature ivory statue of her son Khufu, found at Abydos. Ironically, at under 8cm, this tiny figure is the only surviving representation of the builder of Egypt’s Great Pyramid. ROOM 26 – MONTUHOTEP II The seated statue in the corridor on your right, after leaving Room 32, represents Theban-born Montuhotep II (No 136), first ruler of the Middle Kingdom period. He is shown with black skin (representing fertility and rebirth) and the red crown of Lower Egypt. This statue was discovered by Howard Carter under the forecourt of the pharaoh’s temple at Deir al- Bahri in Thebes in 1900, when the ground gave way under his horse – a surprisingly recurrent means of discovery in the annals of Egyptology. ROOMS 21 & 16 – SPHINXES These grey-granite sphinxes are very different from the great enigmatic Sphinx at Giza – they look more like the Lion Man from The Wizard of Oz, with a fleshy human face surrounded by a great shaggy mane and big ears. Sculpted for Pharaoh Amenemhat III (1855–1808 BC) during the 12th dynasty, they were moved to Avaris by the Hyksos and then to the Delta lonelyplanet.com EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: Ground Floor 189 city of Tanis by Ramses II (see p215 ). Also here is an extraordinary wood figure of the ka (spirit double) of the 13th dynasty ruler Hor Auibre. ROOM 12 – HATHOR SHRINE The centrepiece of this room is a remarkably well-preserved vaulted sandstone www.ancientegypt.co.uk chapel, found near the Theban temple of Deir al-Bahri. Its walls are painted is a fabulous website with reliefs of Tuthmosis III, his wife Meritre and two princesses, making hosted by the British offerings to Hathor, who suckles the pharaoh. The life-size cow statue Museum that has loads suckles Tuthmosis III’s son and successor Amenhotep II, who also stands of interactive online beneath her chin. games and information Hatshepsut, who was coregent for part of Tuthmosis III’s reign, eventu- about ancient Egypt for ally had herself crowned as pharaoh. Her life-sized pink granite statue stands children. It is guaran- to the left of the chapel. Although she wears a pharaoh’s headdress and a teed to keep aspiring false beard, the statue has definite feminine characteristics. The large red- Egyptologists occupied dish-painted limestone head in the corridor outside this room is also of for hours. Hatshepsut, originally from one of the huge Osiris-type statues that adorned the pillared façade of her great temple at Deir al-Bahri. Also here are wall decorations from the temple showing the famed expedition to Punt, perhaps Somalia or Eritrea. ROOM 3 – AMARNA ROOM Akhenaten (1352–1336 BC), the ‘heretic pharaoh’, did more than build a new capital at Tell al-Amarna, close the temples of the traditional state god Amun and promote the sun god Aten in his place. He also ushered in a period of great artistic freedom, as a glance around this room will show. Compare these great torsos with their strangely bulbous bellies, hips and thighs, their elongated faces and thick lips, with the sleek, hard-edged Middle Kingdom sculpture of previous rooms. Perhaps most striking of all is the unfinished head of Nefertiti (No 161), wife of Akhenaten. Worked in brown quartzite, it’s an incredibly delicate and sensi- tive portrait and shows the queen to have been extremely beautiful – unlike some of the relief figures of her elsewhere in the room, in which she appears with exactly the same strange features as her husband. The masterpiece of this period, the finished bust of Nefertiti, remains in the Berlin museum. ROOM 10 – RAMSES II At the foot of the northeast stairs is a fabulous large, grey-granite representation of Ramses II, builder of the Ramesseum and Abu Simbel. But here in this statue he is tenderly depicted as a child with his finger in his mouth nestled against the breast of a great falcon, in this case the Canaanite god Horus. ROOM 34 – GRAECO-ROMAN ROOM It is best to visit these last rooms after seeing the upper floor, because this is the end of the ancient Egyptian story. By the 4th century BC, Egypt had been invaded by many nations, mostly recently by the Macedonian Alexander the Great. Egypt’s famously resistant culture had become po- rous, as will be obvious from the stelae on the back wall, and on the large sandstone panel on the right-hand wall inscribed in three languages: official Egyptian hieroglyphics; the more popularly used demotic; and Greek, the language of the new rulers. This trilingual stone is similar in nature to the more famous Rosetta stone (see p397 ), now housed in London’s British Museum, a cast of which stands near the museum entrance (Room 48). Also, notice the bust situated immediately to the left as you enter this room: a typically Greek face with curly beard and locks, but wearing a Pharaonic-style headdress. 190 EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: First Floor lonelyplanet.com

ROOMS 50 & 51 – ALEXANDER THE GREAT On the official museum plan this area is labelled ‘Alexander the Great’ but currently there’s nothing here that relates directly to the Macedonian conqueror who became pharaoh. However, there is a beautiful small marble statuette of the Greek goddess Aphrodite, carved at the end of the 1st century BC and found in Alexandria. Egyptians identified her with Isis. MUSEUM TOUR: FIRST FLOOR Exhibits here are grouped thematically and can be viewed in any order, but assuming that you’ve come up the southeast stairs, we’ll enter the Tutankhamun Galleries at Room 45. This way, you’ll experience the pieces in roughly the same order that they were laid out in the tomb (a poster on the wall outside Room 45 illustrates the tomb and treasures as they were found). But if you are fascinated by mummies, then some of the most amazing ones are on display in the Royal Mummy Room, best visited before entering the Tutankhamun Galleries. ROOM 56 – ROYAL MUMMY ROOM The Royal Mummy Room (adult/student E£100/50, ticket office beside stairs off room 50; h9am- 6.20pm) houses the remains of some of Egypt’s most illustrious pharaohs and queens from the 17th to 21st dynasties, 1650 to 945 BC. They lie in individual glass showcases (kept at a constant 22°C) in a suitably sombre, tomblike environment. Talking above a hushed whisper is forbidden (somewhat counterproductively, a guard will bellow ‘silence’ if you do) and tour guides The Treasures of the are forbidden to enter, although some do. Egyptian Museum, edited Displaying dead royalty has proved highly controversial in the past. Late by Francesco Tiradritti, President Anwar Sadat took the Royal Mummies off display in 1979 for is an excellent refer- political reasons, but the subsequent reappearance of 11 of the better look- ence published by the ing mummies in 1994 has done wonders for tourism figures and a second American University in mummy room has now been added. The extra admission charge is steep, Cairo Press. Available in but well worth it if you have any interest in mummies or in ancient Egypt’s most of Cairo’s English- great rulers. Parents should be aware that the mummies can be a frightening language bookshops sight for young children. and at the museum Take time to study the faces of some of the first room’s celebrated in- bookshop, it features 416 mates, beginning with the brave Theban king Seqenenre II who died vio- pages of stunning colour lently, possibly during struggles to reunite the country at the end of the photographs and costs Second Intermediate Period (1650–1550 BC). His wounds are still visible E£300. beneath his curly hair and his twisted arms reflect the violence of his death. The perfectly wrapped mummies of Amenhotep I and Queen Merit Amun show how all royal mummies would once have looked, bedecked with garlands. Hatshepsut’s brother-husband Tuthmosis II lies close by, as does Tuthmosis IV with his beautifully styled hair – he was the first pharaoh to have his ears pierced. Here too is Seti I, often described as the best-preserved royal mummy, although his son Ramses II, in the middle of the room, might argue with that, his haughty profile revealing the family’s characteristic curved nose, his hair dyed in old age with yellow henna. Ramses II’s 13th son and successor Merenptah has a distinctly white appearance caused by the mummification process. The new mummy room (same ticket) is located across the building, off room 46. The corridor display relates some of the most famous mummy discoveries, including the 1881 Deir al-Bahri cache of royal mummies. Many of the mummies in this section date from the 20th and 21st dynasties, the end of the New Kingdom and the start of the Third Intermediate lonelyplanet.com EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: First Floor 191

MYTH BUSTING In January 2005 the National Geographic Society arranged for 1700 CT scans of the mummy of Tutankhamun to be taken at his tomb in Luxor’s Valley of the Kings. The scans were then given to three teams of researchers (from Paris, New York and Egypt) who used them to model busts showing what the boy pharaoh might have looked like on the day of his death 3300 years ago. Unveiling the startlingly similar-looking busts to a packed international press conference, Zahi Hawass, secretary-general of Egypt’s Supreme Council of Antiquities, stated that the scans had shown that Tut was healthy and well fed at the time of his death and that there was no evidence of foul play, contradicting the oft-repeated theory that he had been murdered at the behest of Ay, the commoner who ruled Egypt as regent while Tut was growing up. The scans showed that one of Tut’s legs had been fractured shortly before his death, leading to conjecture that this had led to infection or a fat embolism that eventually killed him.

Period (c 1186–945 BC). In the mummy room, the small raised spots visible on the face of Ramses V may have been caused by smallpox. His predecessors Ramses III and IV lie nearby. Since her cheeks had burst apart due to overpacking during the mummification process, the appearance of Queen Henettawy (c 1025 BC) owes as much to modern restorers as to ancient embalmers, who decorated her linen shroud with an image of Osiris. Queen Nesikhonsu’s mummy still conveys the queen’s vivid features. Queen Maatkare lies nearby with her pet baboon. Also here are the mummies of several youths, including Prince Djedptahiufankh.

TUTANKHAMUN GALLERIES The treasure of the young New Kingdom pharaoh, Tutankhamun, are among the world’s most famous antiquities. The tomb and treasures of this pharaoh, who ruled for only nine years during the 14th century BC (1336–1327 BC), were discovered in 1922 by English archaeologist Howard Carter. Its well-hidden location in the Valley of the Kings, below the much grander but ransacked tomb of Ramses VI, had long prevented its discovery (see boxed text, p261 ). Many archaeologists now believe that up to 80% of these extraordinary treasures were made for Tutankhamun’s predecessors, Akhenaten and Moisturising oils were Smenkhkare – some still carry the names of the original owners. Perhaps very popular; even troops with Tutankhamun’s death, everything connected with the Amarna Period were anointed with was simply chucked in with him to be buried away and forgotten. perfumes as a mark of About 1700 items are spread throughout a series of rooms on the museum’s honour. One Spartan king 1st floor, and although the gold shines brightest, sometimes the less grand stormed out of a banquet objects give more insight into the pharaoh’s life. The following are some of when his fellow Egyptian the highlights. guests had overdone the perfume. He thought them decadent and Room 45 effeminate. Flanking the doorway as you enter are two life-size statues of Tutankhamun, found in the tomb antechamber. A large black-and-white photograph shows them in situ. Made of wood coated in bitumen, their black skin suggests an identification with Osiris and the rich, black river silt, symbolised fertility and rebirth.

Room 40 Note Tutankhamun’s wig box of dark wood, with strips of blue and orange inlay, the wooden mushroom-shaped support inside once holding the pharaoh’s short curly wig. 192 EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: First Floor lonelyplanet.com

Rooms 35 & 30 The pharaoh’s lion throne (No 179) is one of the museum’s highlights. Covered with sheet gold and inlaid with lapis, cornelian and other semiprecious stones, the wooden throne is supported by lion legs. The colourful tableau Despite the magnificence on the chair-back depicts Ankhesenamun applying perfume to husband of his burial artefacts, Tutankhamun, under the rays of the sun (Aten), the worship of which was Tutankhamun only ruled a hangover from the Amarna period. Evidence of remodelling of the figures Egypt for nine years and suggests that this was the throne of his father and predecessor, Akhenaten. made little impression in The robes are modelled in beaten silver, their hair of glass paste. the annals of its history. Many golden statues were placed in the tomb to help the pharaoh on his journey in the afterlife, including a series of 28 gilt-wood protective deities and 413 shabti, attendants who would serve the pharaoh in the afterlife. Only a few of them are displayed here. Room 20 This room contains exquisite alabaster jars and vessels carved into the shape of boats and animals. Rooms 10 & 9 The northern end of this gallery is filled with the pharaoh’s three elaborate funerary couches, one supported by the cow-goddess Mehetweret, one by two figures of the goddess Ammit, ‘the devourer’ who ate the hearts of the damned, and the third by the lioness god Mehet. The huge bouquet of persea and olive leaves in Room 10, near the top of the stairs, was originally propped up beside the two black and gold guardian statues in Room 45. The alabaster chest contains four Canopic jars, the stoppers of which are in the form of Tutankhamun’s head. Inside these jars, four miniature gold coffins (now in Room 3) held the pharaoh’s internal organs. The chest was placed inside the golden Canopic shrine with the four gilded goddesses: Isis, Neith, Nephthys and Selket, all portrayed with protective outstretched arms. Most people walk right past Tutankhamun’s amazing wardrobe. The pharaoh was buried with a range of sumptuous tunics covered in gold discs and beading, ritual robes of ‘fake fur’, a large supply of neatly folded underwear and even socks to be worn with flip-flop-type sandals, 47 pairs of which were buried with him. From these and other objects, the Tutankhamun Textile Project has worked out that pharaoh’s vital statistics were 79cm (31in) chest, 74cm (29in) waist and 109cm (43in) hips. Rooms 8 & 7 These galleries just barely accommodate four massive gilded wooden shrines. These fitted one inside the other, like a set of Russian dolls, encasing at their centre the sarcophagi of the boy pharaoh. Room 3 This is the room everybody wants to see as it contains the pharaoh’s golden sarcophagus and jewels; at peak times, prepare to queue. Tutankhamun’s astonishing death mask has become an Egyptian icon. Made of solid gold and weighing 11kg, the mask covered the head of the mummy, where it lay inside a series of three sarcophagi. The mask is an idealised portrait of the young pharaoh; the eyes are fashioned from obsidian and quartz, while the outlines of the eyes and the eyebrows are delineated with lapis lazuli. No less wondrous are the two golden sarcophagi. These are the inner two sarcophagi – the outermost coffin, along with the pharaoh’s mummy, remains in his tomb in the Valley of the Kings. The smallest coffin is, lonelyplanet.com EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: First Floor 193 like the mask, cast in solid gold and inlaid in the same fashion. It weighs 110kg. The slightly larger coffin is made of gilded wood. ROOM 4 – ANCIENT EGYPTIAN JEWELLERY Even after Tutankhamun’s treasures, this stunning collection of royal jewellery takes the breath away. The collection covers the period from early dynasties to the Romans and includes belts, inlaid beadwork, necklaces, semiprecious stones and bracelets. Among the most beautiful is a diadem of Queen Sit-Hathor-Yunet, a golden headband with a rearing cobra inset with Cosmetics played an semiprecious stones. Also of note is Pharaoh Ahmose’s gold dagger and important role in the Seti II’s considerable gold earrings. daily life of both women and men; the tomb ROOM 2 – ROYAL TOMBS OF TANIS builders of Deir al-Medina This glittering collection of gold- and silver-encrusted objects came from are shown having their six intact 21st- and 22nd-dynasty tombs found at the Delta site of Tanis eye paint applied during ( p215 ). Unearthed by the French in 1939, the tombs’ discovery rivalled working hours as protec- Carter’s finding of Tutankhamun’s tomb, but news of the discovery was tion against glare and overshadowed by the outbreak of WWII. The gold death mask of Psusennes various eye diseases. I (1039–991 BC) is shown alongside his silver inner coffin and another silver coffin with the head of a falcon belonging to the pharaoh Shoshenq II (c 890 BC). ROOM 14 – GRAECO-ROMAN MUMMIES This room contains a small sample of the stunning portraits found on Graeco-Roman mummies, popularly known as the Fayoum Portraits (see boxed text, p209 ). These faces were painted onto wooden panels, often during the subject’s life, and placed over the mummies’ embalmed faces. These portraits express the personalities of their subjects more successfully than the stylised elegance of most other ancient Egyptian art and are recog- nised as the link between ancient art and the Western portrait tradition. ROOM 34 – PHARAONIC TECHNOLOGY For gadget buffs, this room contains a great number of everyday objects that helped support ancient Egypt’s great leap out of prehistory. Some are still in use in Egypt today. Pharaonic boomerangs were apparently used for hunting birds. ROOM 43 – YUYA & THUYU ROOMS Before Tutankhamun’s tomb was uncovered, the tomb of Yuya and Thuyu (the parents of Queen Tiy, and Tutankhamun’s great-grandparents) had yielded the most spectacular find in Egyptian archaeology. Discovered virtually intact in the Valley of the Kings in 1905, the tomb contained a vast number of treasures, including five ornate sarcophagi and the remarkably well-preserved mummies of the two commoners who became royal in-laws. Among many other items on display are such essentials for the hereafter as beds and sandals, as well as the fabulous gilded death mask of Thuyu. ROOM 48 – PYRAMID MODEL This excellent large-scale model of one of the Abu Sir pyramids perfectly illustrates the typical pyramid complex with its valley temple, high-walled causeway, mortuary temple and minisatellite pyramid – well worth studying before a trip to Giza. Case No 82 contains the much- copied blue faïence hippopotamus from the Middle Kingdom, a symbol of the Nile’s fertility. © Lonely Planet Publications 194 EGYPTIAN MUSEUM •• Museum Tour: First Floor lonelyplanet.com

ROOM 53 – ANIMAL MUMMIES Animal cults grew in strength throughout ancient Egypt, as the battered and dust-covered mummified cats, dogs, crocodiles, birds, rams and jackals in Room 53 suggest. ROOM 37 – MODEL ARMIES www.animalmummies Discovered in the Asyut tomb of governor Mesheti and dating from about .com, a website 2000 BC (11th dynasty), these are two sets of 40 wooden warriors march- dedicated to the Egyptian ing in phalanxes. The darker soldiers (No 72) are Nubian archers from Museum’s animal mum- the south of the kingdom, each wearing brightly coloured kilts of varying mies, encourages you to design, while the lighter-skinned soldiers (No 73) are Egyptian pikemen. adopt one and help pay for a climate-controlled ROOMS 32 & 27 – MIDDLE KINGDOM MODELS room and special cases to These sensational lifelike models were mostly found in the tomb of conserve the poor beasts. Meketre, an 11th-dynasty chancellor in Thebes, and, like some of the best of Egyptian tomb paintings, they provide a fascinating portrait of daily life in Egypt almost 4000 years ago. They include fishing boats, a slaughterhouse, a carpentry workshop, a loom and a model of Meketre’s house (with fig trees in the garden). Most spectacular is the 1.5m-wide scene of Meketre sitting with his sons, four scribes and various others, counting cattle.

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