Crossover Bodice Pg

Melbourne Top & Dress Fabric R equirements:

58” width fabric **Additional fabric may be required to match stripes or one way designs.

60” width fabric **Additional fabric may be required to match stripes or one way designs. Recommended Fabrics and Notions: Fabric - (Stretch fabric with at least 50% stretch) Ity, Dty, Rayon Spandex, Brushed Polyester, Modal Spandex, Jersey, and Polyester Blends. Light/Medium weight knits. (Pre-wash your fabric) Binding fabric must be at least 50% stretch with good recovery.

1-2 yards of clear elastic or 1/4” braided elastic (optional).

Size Chart and Finished Measurements:

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 2 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 3 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Stretch Gauge:

Tips for Sewing with Knits: • Use a ball point needle or jersey needle in your serger or sewing machine.

• If you’re not using a serger, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. It will look like this:

• If your sewing machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, use the zigzag stitch and lower the width to 1 mm.

• To allow for a greater amount of stretch on your stitch, lower your tension by one number; if you usually have your tension set at a 5, lower it to a 4.

• When sewing with knits it is important to not stretch the fabric as you sew. If you’re experiencing wavy seams, try adjusting the presser foot to a lighter pressure.

• When using a serger, set your differential feed to 1.5 with a stitch length of 2.5 for medium weight knits, 1.0 with a 2.0 stitch length for light weight knits and 2.0 with a 3.0 stitch length for thick knits. (All sergers are different, use this as a guideline.)

• For knits that roll at the edge, press with starch.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine for greater stretch and tunneling issues from a double needle. This also works well with a straight stitch for top-stitching, not hemming.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the upper looper of your serger for fabrics with a great amount of stretch.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 4 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Printing Instructions: To print the pattern, make sure page scaling is set to none and landscape is selected. Print off the page with the 2” test box (page 21) and adjust settings as needed to match size. Print off the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern together with the numbers in sequence to make this:

To print only one size, select the layers on the side menu and leave page numbers, text, paper size, and desired size selected.

When taping the no trim pages together, each page will have a border on the bottom and right side. Overlap the adjoining pages to these borders. There will be a small gap that won’t

Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain. The grain will be the length of your fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 5 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 6 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Full Bust Adjustment Instructions:

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 7 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Full Bust Adjustment Instructions:

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 8 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Cutting the Top & Dresss:

Standard Bodice: • Cut 1 Front Bodice on the fold. • Cut 1 Back Bodice on the fold. • Cut 1 Front Skirt piece on the fold of desired length. • Cut 1 Back Skirt piece on the fold of desired length. • Cut 2 Sleeve pieces (mirror image) of desired length. • Cut 1 Neck Band piece (matching desired neckline option) on the fold. (If you’re sewing the sleeveless option, read the cutting instructions on the next page).

• Right Side • Wrong Side

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 9 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Cutting the Top & Dress Cont. : Crossover Bodice: • Cut 2 Front Bodices (mirror image). • Cut 1 Back Bodice on the fold (cut on scoop neckline option). • Cut 1 Front Skirt piece on the fold of desired length. • Cut 1 Back Skirt piece on the fold of desired length. • Cut 2 Sleeve pieces (mirror image) of desired length. • Cut 1 Neck Band piece (matching crossover neckline option) on the fold.

Sleeveless: • Cut 1 Front Bodice on the fold. • Cut 1 Back Bodice on the fold. • Cut 1 Front Skirt piece on the fold of desired length. • Cut 1 Back Skirt piece on the fold of desired length. • Cut 1 Neck Band piece (matching desired neckline option) on the fold. • Cut 2 Arm Band pieces on the fold.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 10 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Standard Bodice: Seam Allowance is 3/8” unless otherwise stated. • Take the Front and Back bodice pieces and place them right sides together aligned at the shoulders. Stitch in place.

(For the crossover bodice skip ahead to the next page).

• Mark the center front and back.

• Take the neck band piece and fold it right sides together widthwise. Sew the ends together. Mark the center.

• Fold the band wrong sides together lengthwise, matching the raw edges.

• Place the band inside the neck of the shirt, right sides together, raw edges together.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 11 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 • Match the center front and back of the shirt and neckband. Stretch the band to fit around the neckline. Stitch in place.

(skip ahead to page 12 for the sleeveless bodice or 13 for sleeves).

Crossover Bodice: Seam Allowance is 3/8” unless otherwise stated. • Take the Front and Back bodice pieces and place them right sides together aligned at the shoulders. Stitch in place.

(If you’re not sewing the crossover bodice, skip ahead to page 12). • Mark the center back.

• Fold the Neck Band piece wrong sides together lengthwise.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 12 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 • Match the center mark of the neck band to the center mark of the back neckline. Raw edges together.

• Next, stretch the band on one side, evenly distributing it with the neckline. Extend the ends of the neck band 1” past the end of the crossover bodice.

• Pin in place. (Make sure there is 1” of the neck band overhanging the bodice neckline.)

• Stretch and pin the other side of the neckline. Stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 13 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 • (Optional) Press the seam allowance towards the inside of the bodice and topstich the neck band.

• Following the bottom curve of the bodice, trim the excess neckband. Do not trim it flat. Make sure it is curving downward.

• Overlap the front bodice pieces aligning the marks on the bottom of the bodice.

• Baste in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 14 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sleeveless Bodice: • Place the front and back bodice pieces right sides together. Align the sides and stitch in place.

(If you’re sewing sleeves, skip ahead to page 13).

• Take one of the Arm Band pieces and fold it right sides together widthwise. Sew the ends together.

• Fold the band wrong sides together lengthwise, matching the raw edges.

• Place the band inside the armscye of the shirt, right sides together, raw edges together. Align the arm band seam with the side seam of the shirt.

• Stretch the band to fit and stitch in place. Repeat with the other side.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 15 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Sleeved Bodice: • Fold the bottom of the sleeve under 3/4” and press flat. Edge stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

(If you’re not sewing sleeves, skip ahead to page 14).

• Take one of the sleeves and place it right sides together with the bodice. Match the front of the sleeve with the front of the bodice. Then use the notch marks to align the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and the back notch for the back of the bodice.

• Beginning at each end and working towards the center, pin the sleeve to the bodice. Stitch in place. Repeat with the other side and sleeve.

• Turn the bodice so that right sides are together. Align seams at the armpit and stitch together in an “L” shape. Repeat with the other side.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 16 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 • Fold the seam allowance to one side and sew a stay stitch at the sleeve opening.

Gathering the Skirt (Non-Elastic): To gather the skirt with elastic, skip to the next page.

• Place the Front and Back Skirt pieces right sides together, aligned at the sides. Stitch in place.

• Sew two long straight basting stitches along the top, one at 1/8” from the edge and the other at 1/4” from the edge. Do not backstitch, and make sure to leave excess thread at the beginning and end of your stitches.

• Grab the loose threads and gently pull to evenly gather the skirt to match the top bodice.

Proceed to page 16 to finish the top or dress.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 17 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Gathering the Skirt (Elastic): Skip this page if you gathered the skirt using the non- elastic method.

• Place the Front and Back Skirt pieces right sides together, aligned at the sides. Stitch in place.

• Using the back bodice pattern piece, cut one piece of elastic 4 times the bodice width (make sure to remove the seam allowance). Mark the elastic in 4 quarters Overlap the elastic 1/2” and pin in place.

• Place the elastic around the top wrong side of the skirt piece. Pin the elastic to the skirt 1/8” from the edge at the sides and center of the skirt using the marks on the elastic.

• Starting where the elastic is overlapped, stitch back and forth to secure the elastic. Then pull the elastic until it is the same width as the top of the skirt and stitch in place using a zigzag stitch.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 18 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Finishing the Top or Dress: • Take the bodice and turn it right side out. Place the bodice inside the skirt (right sides together) matching the front and back. (Return stitch length to normal if you haven’t already).

• Align the raw edges and stitch in place.

• Fold the bottom of the skirt under 3/4” and press flat. Edge stitch in place.

And You’re Done! And you’re done! Thank you for purchasing my pattern. If you have any questions email me at [email protected]

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 19 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 Glossary: • Backstitch: To stitch in reverse; usually over the beginning and end of a seam to prevent the stitches from becoming loose and fabric pulling apart.

• Baste: To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily during construction and fitting.

• Bias: A line diagonal to the grain of a fabric; a line at a 45 degree angle to the selvage often utilized in the cutting of garments for smoother fit.

• Clipping: A technique that involves cutting slits into the seam allowance of outward curves to permit the edges of the seam to spread and lie smooth. Take great care not to cut into the seam stitching.

• Dart: A triangular shape sewn onto a flat piece of fabric, allowing the fabric to conform to the contours of the body.

• Edge stitch: Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim, or outer edge. It secures seam allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and supports the fabric.

• Fabric Stretch Gauge: The guide printed on the back of the pattern envelope to gauge the appropriate fabric stretch required for the garment design to fit properly.

• Fold: The edge formed by doubling the fabric when the selvage edges meet or are parallel.

• Gathering: A long running stitch that is used to pull fabric together to create a smaller surface area of fabric. Applications of the gathering stitch can be found at the waistline, cuffs, yoke, and in the construction of ruffles.

• Hem: A border of a cloth article doubled back and stitched down.

• Right Side: The outside or topside of fabric; it is usually softer or smoother.

• Seam Allowance: The amount of fabric between the stitching or seam line and the fabric edge.

• Top stitch: Machine stitches done from the right side of a garment for either a decorative effect or for functional reasons, or sometimes for both at the same time. Top stitching gives a garment a more tailored look.

• Under stitching: A line of straight stitching, either by hand or machine, applied along certain seam lines such as neckline facing seams. Its purpose is to keep the facing and seam allowances laying flat in a particular direction.

• Wrong side: Usually the inside of a garment or the backside of fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Sleeveless Bodice Crossover Bodice Pg. 20 Main Skirt Standard Bodice Sleeves Melbourne Top & Dress © New Horizons Designs 2019 21

28 30 28 26 26 24 22 24 20 18 22 16 14 12 2” 20 10 8 6 4 18 x-small

16 xx-small

10 Line Grain 4cm 8

6 Stretch 224 x-small

xx-small © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Melbourne Top & Dress Sleeve 23Back Cut 2 (Mirror Image) 3/8” Seam Allowance Stretch

xx-small x-small 10 12 14 6 18 20 24Front 4 8 22 24 26 28 30 Cut 2 (Mirror Image) 3/8” Seam Allowance

3/4” Hem 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Melbourne Top & Dress Back Bodice Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 3/4” Hem

Cut here for Crew Neck

Cut here for Scoop Neck

Place on Fold Place and Crossover Cut here for Sleeves

Cut here 25for Sleeveless

Grain Line Grain

Stretch

3/8” 3/8” Allowance Seam (Scoop Neck Option Only) Option Neck (Scoop 26Melbourne Top & Dress Band Neck Scoop 1 o n Fold Cut

Place on Fold © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne

Short Sleeve Cut Line Grain Line Grain

Shorten/Lengthen Here

27 Elbow Length Cut Line © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Short Sleeve Cut Line

Shorten/Lengthen Here

Elbow Length Cut Line 28 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Grain Line Grain

Stretch

xx-small x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 29 22 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 30

20 26 22 24 24 26 28 22 30 20

18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 x-small

xx-small

30Line Grain

Stretch

3/8” 3/8” Allowance Seam Melbourne Top & Dress Band Neck Crossover 1 o n Fold Cut Only) Option (Crossover © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 31 3/4 Sleeve Cut Line © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 3/4 Sleeve Cut Line 32 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 33 Melbourne Top & Dress Front Bodice Cut 1 on Fold © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 3/8” Seam Allowance 3/4” Hem 3/4” Hem SeamAllowance 3/8” Cut 1onFold Front Bodice Top &Dress Melbourne

Place on Fold on Place PlaceFold on

PlaceFold on Melbourne Top & Dress Sleeveless Arm Band Cut 2 on Fold (Sleeveless option only) 3/8” Seam Allowance Long Sleeve Cut Line

PlaceFold on Melbourne Top & Dress Crew Neck Band Melbourne Cut 1 on Fold (Crew Neck Option Only) Top & Dress35 3/8” Seam Allowance Crossover Bodice Cut 2 (Mirror Image) 3/8” Seam Allowance © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 3/4” Hem

30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16

14 12 10 8 6 4 x-small

xx-small Grain Line Grain

Stretch

n Fold n Fold

3/8” 3/8” Allowance Seam

(Crew Neck Option Only) Option Neck (Crew

Cut 1 o Cut

Crew Neck Band Neck Crew Melbourne Top & Dress Melbourne Top Long Sleeve Cut Line Cut Sleeve Long Melbourne Top & Dress Front Bodice Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 3/4” Hem

Cut here

for Sleeves Grain Line Grain

Stretch

xx-small 4 x-small 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 37 28 30 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Melbourne Top & Dress Front Bodice Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance PlaceFold on 3/4” Hem

Cut here for Crew Neck

Cut here for Sleeves

Cut here for Scoop Neck

Cut here

for Sleeveless Grain Line Grain

xx-small

x-small 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 3820 22 24

26 28

3/4” Hem

Cut here for Sleeves

Cut here

for Sleeveless Grain Line Grain Stretch 39 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 40 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 2” 4cm

30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 x-small 41 xx-small © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 42

MelbourneShorten/Lengthen Here PlaceFold on © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Top & Dress Front Skirt Cut 1 on Fold

xx-small

Shorten/Lengthen Here Melbourne43

Place on Fold Place Grain Line Grain 26 28 30 22 24 20 18 16 14 10 12 6 8 x-small 4

xx-small 44 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 4530 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 10 8

6 4

x-small xx-small Melbourne Top & Dress PlaceFold on Front Skirt Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 3/4” Hem

46Line Grain

Stretch

x-small xx-small Melbourne Top & Dress Back Skirt Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 3/4” Hem

Place on Fold Place Grain Line Grain 47Stretch © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 30 26 28 22 24

x-small 20 xx-small 16 18 12 14 8 10 484 6 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 28 30 49 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne

6 4

x-small xx-small

30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4

x-small xx-small

Shirt Length

x-small xx-small 51 Tunic Length © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Shirt Length

Tunic Length 52 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 26 28 22 24 20 xx-small x-small 16 18 12 14 10 4 6 8 53 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 28 26 24 22 20 xx-small x-small 18 14 16 28 30 54 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 30 28 26 30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4

x-small 55 xx-small © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 56 Knee Length Curved Hem Knee Length © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Knee Length Curved Hem Knee Length57 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 28 26 24 22 20 xx-small x-small 16 18 12 14 8 10 4 6 58 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 30 28 26 59 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 60 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 61 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 62 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 63 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 64 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 65

xx-small 4 x-small 8 6 12 10 16 14 28 26 24 22 20 18

© Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 30 66 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Maxi Length Maxi Length 67 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne xx-small

x-small

4 6 8 10 12 14 16 6818 20 22 24 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 24 26 28 30 69 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne 70 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne Maxi Length 71 © Melbourne Top & Dress by New Horizons Designs 2019 Designs Horizons New by & Dress Top © Melbourne