The Ultimate Guide to Sewing and Fitting Trousers

- Fitting Guide to Ultimate Trousers: Fuller Stomach - What are the symptoms of this fitting problem?

• Horizontal wrinkles of fabric pulling across the stomach area. • There may also be wrinkles of fabric pulling across the lower abdomen/top of legs. • Crotch seam may be pulling to the front. • It feels tight at the crotch seam.

What is the fitting problem?

• The pattern is tight around your stomach area.

What measurements do I need to take to make an adjustment?

• Measure your crotch length - take the measurement from 2” below your waist at the front to 2” below your waist at the back, around the crotch. • Add 1” or 2.5cm to this measurement for ease.

What tools do I need to make this fitting adjustment?

• Pattern paper • Pencil • Ruler or Pattern Master • Tape measure What adjustment do I need to make?

1. Starting 1.5cm in from the inside crotch of the front leg piece, measure the length of the front seam. Starting 1.5cm in from the inside crotch of the back leg piece, measure the length of the back seam. Add these together and minus 6cm (for seam allowances).

2. Note the difference between your crotch length measurement and the pattern measurement. For example, if your crotch length is 27” (including ease) but the pattern measures 26”, this is a difference of -1”.

3. Extend the crotch seam of the front leg piece above the waistline by about 5cm (2”) at the centre front.

4. Draw a line across the pattern at the fullest part of your stomach. Make sure this line is at right angles to the grainline on the pattern. It is easiest to work out the fullest part of your stomach when wearing a toile. 5. Cut across this line from the centre front crotch line to the side seam, stopping 1.5cm from the seam.

6. Pivot the top trouser piece by the final measurement from point 2. e.g. 1”

7. Place pattern paper underneath and fix the top of the trousers in place.

8. At the top, extend the waistline across to the new centre front line.

9. Maintaining the curve of the crotch, join the lines of the centre front to form one continuous crotch line.

10. Straighten the outer side seam line.

11. You may need to adjust the position of the darts, depending on how much of an adjustment you have made. Check the position of the darts on your new toile/muslin using our video Fitting the Darts to help.

Please note: no adjustments are needed to the back leg piece.

Your pattern is now ready to use. We advise you to make a second toile/muslin if you are concerned about additional fitting issues. For even more guidance on techniques, please see our blog and YouTube channel. www.youtube.com/sewoverit