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GLOSSARY OF TERMS

A helpful guide to fabric, and garment terminology

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www.loveyourclothes.org.uk Fabric terminology

Bias Fabric on the diagonal of a . This is where there is most stretch. Fabric cut on the bias grain drapes very well.

Grain Direction on woven fabrics (see more information under warp, weft and bias). Sewing patterns have an arrow on them indicating what grain direction the piece should be cut on.

Knitted fabric Fabric (such as T- material) made from a continuous length of that is knitted to form a piece of fabric. It generally has more stretch than woven fabrics of same fibre composition.

Nap On fabrics such as and there is a raised surface (or ). is the direction that the pile should face to ensure consistency in the finished garment. When you run your hand along the fabric the nap feels smooth in one direction and rougher in the other. When cutting out a garment, care should be taken to keep the nap on garment pieces going in the same direction.

Right side The side of the fabric with the design on (print, , etc.), (or face) is meant to be on the outside of the garment.

Selvedge The firm finished edges of a woven piece of fabric produced during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling.

Warp The threads on woven fabric that run along the length of the (or straight grain) fabric ( to bottom), parallel to the selvedge – also known as length or straight grain.

Weft The threads on a woven fabric that go across the width of a (or cross grain) fabric between the selvedge edges – also known as cross grain.

Wrong side The side of the fabric meant to be inside a garment.

2 Fabric finishes

Anti-pilling finish Enzymes or chemicals are used in the fabric production to remove small fibres from the surface of garments. This helps to prevent the garment from pilling and it can also help extend the life of a garment.

Non-iron finish Items such as cotton are soaked in resin containing very low levels of formaldehyde. They gain added strength and increased resistance to wrinkling.

Waterproof finish A durable water repellent finish is used on items such as rain to make them repel rain. Conventional durable water repellents are based on a chemical group called Perfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs) which make the products water repellent, as well as oil and -proof. However, PFCs do not easily breakdown in the environment and some chemicals within the group have been found to be carcinogenic. More environmentally friendly fluorocarbon free finishes are now available for manufacturers to use.

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3 Garment terminology

Armhole Space at the top of the arm/shoulder area on a garment to allow the arm to pass through. If there is a on the garment, the top of it is attached to the armhole.

Collar The part around the neck of a shirt, , , , etc. that either stands upright or lays flat over the shoulder area.

Cuff The bottom part of a sleeve, usually just above the wrist, where the material of the sleeve is turned back and neatened or a separate band is added to reinforce the sleeve edge.

Dart A v-shaped adjustment in a garment (usually a fold stitched on the inside of a garment) made to shape the fabric around body contours such as the bust and .

Epaulette An ornamental shoulder decoration or tab placed to decorate the shoulder of a garment such as a jacket - often used in military style clothing.

Facing A piece of reinforced (interfaced) fabric used in sewing to finish the raw edges and strengthen or stiffen a garment in areas such as the or .

Fly An opening in a garment such as that is secured with a zip or , and usually covered by a flap.

Hem The folded edge of the bottom of a garment e.g. a , trousers or coat that is sewn in place to stop the edge fraying and to make the garment hang well.

Lapels The parts on each side of the front of a coat or jacket immediately below the collar which is folded back on either side of the front opening.

Lining A finely woven slippery fabric usually cut in the same basic shape as the main body pieces of a garment. For example, a woollen jacket can be lined with a thin or fabric. The lining is used to finish the inside of a garment, to the construction, to allow for of putting a garment on/taking it off and to strengthen the garment construction.

Piping A length of cord encased in a strip of bias cut fabric, often used for decorative edging or inserts on garments such as ladies evening wear or to edge soft furnishings.

Placket An opening or slit in a garment that is usually reinforced with a double layer of fabric enclosing the raw edges, e.g. a shirt sleeve .

Pleat A fold in fabric that is either inverted or folded outward, that is sewn in on the top edge (e.g. in a skirt ). ease the fit of a garment.

4 A small sewn in to the side seams of clothing such as trousers, used for holding small objects. A patch pocket can also be made by sewing a flat piece of fabric on to a garment on three sides, e.g. the back on .

Sleeve The sections of a garment that cover the arms: • From the shoulder to wrist for long ; • From the shoulder to just below elbow for three- quarter sleeves; and • From the shoulder to approximately half way between shoulder and elbow for short sleeves.

Sleeve head The top part of the sleeve that is sewn into the shoulder seam on the outside of the arm.

Waistband A reinforced strip of fabric that fits around the waist of a garment such as a skirt or a pair of trousers. It holds up sections of a garment such as the trouser leg.

Yoke A fitted area of a garment that is usually around the neck and shoulders, or around the hips. It is generally made from a double layer of fabric. A provides support for parts of the garment such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt.

General terminology

Biodegradable An item made of materials that will decompose naturally and thereby avoid pollution.

Refashion To a garment again to create a new style.

Upcycle To reuse discarded objects or materials to create a product of higher quality or value than the original.

5 Sewing terminology

Easing A way of adding ease into a garment, used in curved areas such as the sleeve head or the bust. This is done by sewing a longer piece of fabric to fit into a smaller piece without gathers or puckers. A line of long straight stitches is machine sewn within the on the longer piece of fabric (e.g. a sleeve head). The thread ends are pulled up slightly, which results in the fabric edge length decreasing so that it will fit onto a shorter length of fabric (e.g. an armhole). On a woollen garment easing can also be done with steam (to shrink the slightly).

Edge A line of straight stitches sewn close to a seam or folded edge to help keep it in place and also to provide decoration, e.g. around a collar or edge.

Flat This is the strongest seam – it won’t fray as raw edges are concealed. It is often used on jeans. A standard seam is sewn (right sides together) with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Half of the seam allowance is cut off on one side of the seam only. The wider side of the seam allowance is brought over and around the cut edge and pressed towards the garment, so the raw edges are concealed. A line of stitching is done as close to this folded edge as possible to hold the seam in place. A third line of stitching is then done through all layers just inside the original seam. Two lines of stitching will show on the right side of garment and three lines of stitching on the wrong side of the garment.

French seam A completely enclosed seam. Often used for lightweight fabrics that fray easily, such as silk. The fabric is placed wrong sides together and a line of stitches is sewn close to the edge of the seam. The fabric is then turned right sides together and a second seam is sewn. This encloses all of the raw edges. This seam construction is not suitable for curved seams.

Gathering A way of sewing a long length of fabric to fit onto a shorter length of fabric, e.g. on a gathered skirt. To a seam, two parallel lines of long straight stitches are sewn within the seam allowance approximately 0.5cm apart. Long tails of thread are left at each end of the lines and these are pulled up to gather the fabric to the desired length. Alternatively, on some designs elastic can be threaded through a seam or attached to fabric to create gathers.

Seam When two pieces of fabric are sewn together to join them, e.g. on the sides of a garment.

Seam allowance A narrow strip of fabric added around each pattern piece to allow for seams to be sewn without affecting the size of the final garment. Usually in dressmaking a 1.5cm seam allowance is used, but in commercial manufacturing a narrower 0.5cm seam is used.

Welted seam Stronger than plain seams – they are often found in garments with thicker fabrics such as on the legs of jeans. A standard seam is sewn (right sides together) with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Half of the seam allowance is cut off on one side of the seam. The side of the seam with a wider seam allowance is finished (overlocked or zig zagged). The seam is pressed to one side, so the wider finished edge covers the cut edge. A second line of stitching is done through all fabric layers 0.5cm from the original seam.

6 terminology

Belt A strong band, often made of rubber, used to transfer the power from the motor to propel the wheel to drive the machine. Belts are generally only used on older sewing machine models.

Bobbin A small spool of thread that is placed in the case. The bobbin and case are placed in the sewing machine generally under the area the needle penetrates – used for the bottom thread. When sewing, the bottom thread combines with the needle thread to form a stitch.

Bobbin case The part of the sewing machine that holds the bobbin. It is placed in the sewing machine generally underneath the needle and area, protected under a plate.

Bobbin winder An empty bobbin is locked in place on the bobbin winder. The machine is re-threaded and thread is slotted into the bobbin. The bobbin winder is then engaged in place to enable the thread to be wound on to the bobbin when the machine is powered.

Feed dogs Teeth located underneath the presser foot that help pull the fabric through the machine when sewing.

Handwheel A wheel located on the top right side of a sewing machine – used to drive the machine. It can also be manoeuvred by hand to do individual stitches and to move the into the right position. On some machines the wheel is disengaged to enable the bobbin to be wound.

Needle A fine long length of steel with a pointed end containing a small hole (eye) on one end that is used to insert the top thread through. Sewing machine needles come in a variety of sizes and types to serve different purposes, e.g. ball point needles are used for sewing knitted fabrics while sharp needles are used for non-stretch fabrics; and thicker needles are used for heavy fabrics such as wool or .

Needle Plate A cover on the machine bed that goes over the bobbin case. There is a hole in the plate for the needle to go through. The plate usually has guide markings on it to help sew seams at the correct seam allowance.

Overlocker A type of sewing machine that sews using either three or four reels of thread. Used for sewing a seam and the edge of fabric at the same time. The overlocker can also the seam allowance as it sews.

Presser foot/lever A small flat foot located underneath the needle that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through the machine by the . A variety of feet are available for different tasks such as for doing and inserting a zip. The foot is lifted up and down onto the fabric using a lever.

Reverse lever Pressed to make the machine stitch in reverse.

Stitch selection dial Used to select stitch pattern, e.g. , zig zag stitch, or embroidery stitches.

7 Thread guide Stitch selection dial Stitch length dial Bobbin winder

Take-up lever

Tension selection dial

Handwheel

Presser foot

Feed dogs

Needle plate Presser foot lever Reverse lever

Bobbin and bobbin cover (inside)

Stitch length dial Used to select the stitch length. Different stitch lengths need to be used, depending on the fabric being sewn and the reason for the seam. e.g. short stitches are usually done on fine fabrics.

Take-up lever This drives the machine needle – it goes up and down as the machine runs to help create stitches. The thread goes through the lever which helps to feed the thread at the correct tension and stop it from getting tangled when sewing.

Tension The pressure being placed on a needle and bobbin thread by your machine. There are two types of tension on your sewing machine - the thread and bobbin tensions. It is best to read your sewing machine manual for specifics. The bobbin tension rarely needs to be adjusted. Your sewing machine manual will show you the appropriate settings and offer you examples of what the threads should look like on the right and wrong sides of your stitching.

Tension guide Thread is passed through this to create tension, so the stitch is formed correctly.

Tension selection dial Used to increase or decrease the tension on a sewing thread to ensure the stitch is correctly formed.

Thread guides Located at different points on the machine – the top thread is threaded through guides to keep it in position, so it runs freely and does not get tangled.

8 Sewing machine stitches

Blind stitch About five straight stitches are sewn and then one zig zag stitch. The straight stitch is sewn on the edge of the fabric and the zig zag stitch goes into the main fabric. It can be used to hem garments such as curtains and where there is a ‘busy’ pattern and the stitches won’t show. A much quicker alternative to hand hemming.

Buttonhole stitch On modern sewing machines there is often an automatic buttonhole setting. Two lines of a close zig zag stitch are sewn parallel to each other to fit the you are using, with longer bar tacks at each end of the line. A sharp pair of or is then used to cut the fabric between the stitching to allow the button through.

Double needle stitch Two lines of straight stitching are done at the same time using two needles. This makes a stronger seam, e.g. used on garment . Two reels of thread are used (one to thread each needle). Only one bobbin thread is used - it creates a small zig zag stitch between the two rows of stitching on the reverse of the fabric.

Embroidery stitches Many sewing machines have simple embroidery stitches available that are sewn in a linear form and that can be used for decorative purposes. Modern computerised machines also have complicated embroidery patterns and motifs available for use, e.g. words, flowers, animals etc can be sewn that use different coloured threads.

Overlock stitch A stitch done over the edge of fabric to prevent fraying. There are specialist sewing machines used to do stitching – three or four threads are used and the edge of the fabric is often cut/neatened as the seam is sewn.

Stay stitch A line of stitching just inside the intended permanent stitching line (seam line) on curved edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from distorting. The direction of the stay stitching should be shown on the sewing pattern.

Straight stitch A sewing machine straight stitch formed by the looping () together of two threads – one on each side of the material being sewn.

Stretch stitch The stretch stitch allows for fabric to ‘give’ when under pressure. It is mainly used on stretch fabrics such as jersey. You can either use a narrow zig zag stitch, or some machines have a triple stretch stitch, where three straight stitches overlap to allow for the knit to stretch and the thread to flex. A ballpoint or stretch needle is best used for this stitch. Please refer to your sewing machine manual for further instructions.

Zig zag stitch A stitch that creates a zig zag pattern. Zig zag stitching is used for finishing seam edges to stop them fraying and for stitching seams on stretch knitted fabrics.

9 Hand sewing stitches

Backstitch A strong straight stitch made by starting the next stitch at the middle or beginning of the preceding one.

Buttonhole stitch A reinforced looped stitch used on the edge of a material to stop it fraying. () For buttonholes the stitches are tightly packed together and for blanket edges they are further apart.

Darning A stitch used to re-work fabric where there is a hole, e.g. in a .

Hemming stitch A stitch used to secure a hem in place so that it is not seen on the right side of a garment, usually accomplished by picking up one thread of the fabric at a time rather than going through the full fabric to make a stitch.

Herringbone stitch A type of cross stitch worked from left to right – usually used to stitch the hem on garments where a stretch stitch is required or used to hem garments made from a bulky fabric. It can also be used as a decorative stitch.

Ladder stitch Used to join two pieces of fabric together – a small running stitch is worked alternately on each piece of fabric. The thread is then pulled up just enough to hide the stitches and make a secure seam.

Running stitch A line of small even stitches which run back and forth through fabric. The stitch is worked by passing the needle in and out of the fabric.

Tacking stitch A large running stitch used to hold fabric in place before the final stitching (basting) is done. The tacking is removed once the final stitching is completed.

Tailor tacks A temporary stitch used when making a garment to mark sewing pattern markings on fabric, such as positions. Five or six very loose straight stitches are worked on top of each other through the sewing pattern and usually through two layers of fabric. The fabric layers are then pulled apart and the thread stitches are cut, marking the position on both pieces of fabric. It is best to use a contrasting thread that stands out so you can see it easily.

10 Sewing equipment/

Beads A small, decorative item available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Made of material such as glass, plastic, stone, bone, shell, wood or pearl. They have a small hole in them to pass a thread through to allow them to be attached to fabric or threaded onto a . Beads range in size from under 1mm to over 2.5cm in diameter.

Bias A strip of fabric cut on the bias which has raw edges folded to the wrong side – usually used to bind the raw edges of fabrics to stop them fraying, e.g. on a hem or under arm seam.

Bodkin A large flat needle that has a large eye – often used for pulling elastic through narrow seams.

Boning A flexible but rigid length of material that is sewn in to a garment to give support – used in garments such as fitted on ladies’ eveningwear. Historically it was made from whale bone or steel, but now it is made from plastic.

Button Usually a small round disk with holes in – used to fasten a garment such as a shirt or . The buttons are sewn onto one side of a garment through the holes in the button. They are then put through a button hole or a loop on the opposite side of the garment to secure it in place. Buttons are made in many different shapes/sizes/colours/materials and are often used as a decorative feature.

Chalk pencil Usually available in white, and pink, chalk pencils are used to transfer pattern markings onto fabric.

Cutting mat Made of a self-healing plastic, they are used when cutting fabric using a rotary cutter or when cutting with a leather knife.

Darning mushroom Pushed inside garments such as or elbows on sleeves when they are being darned. The ‘mushroom’ makes it easier to work on the fabric as it supports and slightly stretches the area being darned. A small plastic bottle can be used instead of a darning mushroom.

Dressmaker’s ruler A long ruler (often 1 metre long) used to mark straight lines on fabric or used when making sewing patterns.

Dressmaking scissors Long bladed scissors (the scissor blades + handles measure approximately 20–25cm length) used to cut out fabric when making a garment. It is worth investing in a good quality pair of scissors that you feel comfortable using – especially if you will be using them a lot. The blades need to be kept sharp, so do not use them to cut items such as paper. If they do become blunt they can often be honed/sharpened, but this can be expensive.

11 Elastic A length of that has stretchy rubber woven into it, giving the fabric stretch. Elastic is available in many sizes, colours and strengths. Often used in underwear (e.g. for or on knickers).

Embroidery scissors Small sharp scissors used for tasks such as trimming threads and cutting open buttonholes. The scissor blades and handles measure approximately 9–12cm in length. The blades need to be kept sharp, so do not use them to cut items such as paper.

French curve A pattern drafting tool that has different curves that can be traced round.

Fusible web A fine fabric that has adhesive on both sides, and a paper backing. Used to fuse fabrics together when doing creative designs such as applique.

Fusing/ A backing fabric that is ironed onto or sewn between layers of fabric, e.g. on a shirt collar to reinforce it. Interfacing comes in different thicknesses/weights to use on different weights of fabric.

Hook and eye A metal or plastic ‘hook’ is attached to one side of a garment and placed through an ‘eye’ attached the other side of a garment to fasten it. Hook and eyes are usually small and indiscreet, but larger ones can be used as decorative features.

Lace A delicate embroidered fabric often made in long lengths and used for decorating garments. Made in many different designs, often floral.

Patternmaster An all-in-one-pattern design tool, used for grading/adding seam allowance onto patterns, adding design curves and marking angles.

Pinking shears Scissors with a zig zag cutting edge used to neaten the fabric edge to avoid fraying.

Pins  are used for temporary basting of fabric. Used to hold patterns in place while cutting and to hold fabrics together while stitching. It is not recommended to machine sew over pins as they have been known to break sewing machine needles, jam the sewing machine, or cause other problems. Care should be taken to use a that will not leave a large hole in the fabric (different types/gauges of pin are available). Do not leave pins in fabric too long as they could cause /rust marks where they touch the fabric.

Ribbon Narrow length of woven fabric used for decoration of garments and household items. Cotton, polyester, , silk etc is used. Different colours and patterns can be used to create attractive effects.

Rotary cutter A rotary cutting wheel with a handle. Useful for speedy and accurate cutting and for fabric that slips around easily. The blades are extremely sharp so must be used with a cutting mat and care must be taken when using them.

12 Seam ripper Used to undo stitches that have been done incorrectly – a tool with a (quick un-pick) small sharp cutting hook on one end that can slip under a stitch and cut it. Also used to open up buttonholes after they have been sewn.

Sewing pattern Paper pieces used to cut out a garment in a specific style and size.

Sequin Shiny disk-shaped plastic or metal beads used for decorating garments. They are available in a wide variety of colours and geometrical shapes. They can be used for many design effects.

Sleeve board A small board that is designed to fit inside a shirt sleeve, to make ironing the sleeve easier and get a better finish.

Spot and cross paper Wide pattern drafting paper printed with a dot and cross design at 2.5cm intervals (to enable faster pattern drafting).

Tailors chalk A thin flat piece of hard chalk used by and seamstresses for making temporary marks on cloth when constructing a garment.

Tailors dummy A body shaped form that is used as a shape guide when doing pattern cutting or when checking the fit of a garment whilst it is being constructed.

Tailors ham A tightly stuffed pillow used when pressing curved areas of clothing, such as darts, sleeves, cuffs or collars. Pressing on a curved form allows the garment to fit body contours more effectively.

Tailors pressing A tightly stuffed tube of fabric used for pressing sleeves and sleeve narrow garments.

Tape measure A flexible ruler made of a strip of cloth or plastic.

Thimble A small metal or plastic with a closed or open end, worn to protect the finger and push the needle when hand sewing.

Thread A continuous length of fibre such as cotton, polyester or silk, often wound onto a reel or spool, used to sew fabric pieces together or to do decorative stitching. Available in different colours and thicknesses. A fine thread is used to sew fine fabrics such as , a thicker thread is used to sew items such as hand-sewn buttonholes. Hand sewing thread is generally stronger and has an ‘s’ twist. Machine sewing thread is generally finer has a ‘z’ twist. If you are right handed and hand sew with ‘z’ twist machine thread, you put a little more twist in the thread as you stitch, causing the thread tends to knot up as you work. To counteract this you can carefully drop the needle and let the thread untwist. Do not use hand-sewing thread in a sewing machine as it will twist as it sews, causing problems.

Zip Constructed of two pieces of fabric tape each with a row of ‘teeth’ on one edge, a zip-pull travels up and down between the teeth to the teeth together. Used to open/close areas of a seam such as the in trousers or a skirt seam to and hold a garment in place. Zips are also used as decorative features on garments and accessories.

13 Garment care terminology

Airing Hanging a garment in the air for a period of time to remove moisture and odours and to help the fabric fall back into shape.

Blocking A method of ensuring a knitted garment is shaped correctly. Place the garment on a flat fabric covered board and pull it into the correct shape (use pins to secure if need be). Cover with a damp pressing cloth and gently press the garment. Leave to dry flat.

Clothes brush A soft brush for removing dust and dirt from clothes.

Clothes steamer A device used for quickly removing wrinkles from garments and fabrics when they are hung up with the use of high temperature steam.

Felting Usually on woollen garments – the garment is washed at too high temperature and/or agitated too much, causing the fibres to matt together and the garment to shrink.

Iron/ironing board A heated tool (iron) is used to get the creases out of garments and to press style lines such as pleats in place. The board is used to support the garments on whilst they are being ironed. The iron has several heat settings for different types of fabrics; cool settings for synthetic fibres and silks; medium settings for mixed fibres such as polyester cotton and for wool; and high temperatures for cotton and . Water can be used in the iron (it is converted to steam) to get a better finish on fabrics ironed at high temperatures.

Lint Wear and tear of garments and household causes fibres to form together in a small cluster, e.g. on the inside corner of a pillowcase or duvet when it has been washed several times. See our guide on how to remove .

Lint roller A roll of one-sided adhesive paper on a cardboard or plastic barrel that is mounted on a central spindle, with an attached handle. It is rolled over a garment to pick up lint and dirt.

Pilling Where small bobbles of fibre form on the surface of a knitted garment in wear areas such as under the arm. Pilling is also accentuated through washing. A garment made from finely knitted fabric is less prone to pilling as the construction is tighter and therefore restricts loose fibres from forming on the surface.

Pressing Place a garment on a flat surface/ironing board. Use an iron on the garment and hold in one place for a short time, then pick up the iron and move it to another place (do not use the type of motion that you would usually use for ironing). A clean damp cloth is often used between the garment and the iron to avoid getting iron marks on the garment.

Spot cleaning Use a gentle liquid and a soft, clean damp cloth to gently rub a stain until it is removed. Rinse the cleaned area to remove any laundry liquid. Dry flat.

Washing at lower Consumers are now being encouraged to wash garments less, wash them temperatures in cold water and to line dry them. This vastly helps reduce the amount of energy and water that is used during the washing process and also helps clothes to last longer.

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