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Home , Falernian wine, Garum

Everyday life in THEME: 500 AD 1 AD

Still life with eggs, birds and bronze POMPEII - Ancient , 80 BC – AD 79 POMPEII - , dishes, from the House of Julia Felix. © Public domain 500 BC 1000 BC

28 Ancient History 13 THEME DIET, DRINK, AND DAILY LIFE IN POMPEII WHAT’S FOR DINNER? What was life like for Romans in Pompeii? We know a lot about their battles, philosophers, and emperors, but what about the lives ordinary Romans? Jessica Venner pieces together the clues that will help us better understand Pompeiian daily life through an examination food production, culture, drink, and diet.

By Jessica Venner and men converse over in silverware. It is not only through the frescoes that we uch of what we know may learn about the food and drink that of the Romans has adorned their tables. Pompeii offers a world been passed down to us of clues into the past of its citizens, if you through the literature of know where to look. the elite, authors such Mas , , and Seneca telling us Back to the basics... stories of murderous emperors, bold orators, Let’s start with the basics. Bread was un- and bloody wars in foreign lands. As a re- surprisingly one of the most important sult, the lives of ordinary Romans have been parts of the ordinary Roman’s diet; grain harder to uncover; what were their pas- received in doles could be handed in for times, what made them laugh, and, more fresh loaves, an event that can be seen in a importantly, what did they eat? Luckily for fresco from a house in Pompeii. In it, three archaeologists and historians, the fate of the males are handed the now infamous Pom- town of Pompeii in 79 AD preserved pre- peiian loaf of bread: plump, round, and cious details, allowing us to piece together divided into eight sections. In the bakery the daily lives of Romans; clues indicating of Modestus, 81 of these exact loaves were their favourite tipple and savoury treats were found in one of the large ovens, placed among them. It is no secret that the Romans there moments before disaster struck. The loved their food and wine, and Pompeii was conditions of the eruption were so unique no exception. Throughout the city, numer- that it carbonized the bread, leaving us a ous wall frescoes depicting raucous drinking gift of this wonderfully human evidence parties build an image of a vibrant commu- almost 2000 years later. The same bakery nity united by their love of consumption. In is the most complete out of the many that these lavish paintings, slaves carry drunken have been excavated in Pompeii and in guests, beautiful ladies recline on couches, the neighbouring town of Herculaneum,

Ancient History 13 29 A baker’s oven in Pompeii. boasting mills and a tub for working grain, Evidence in the form of carbonized food, © Deror_avi / Wikimedia Commons a stable for the beasts that worked the mills, frescoes, root cavities, sewage remains, ancient a proving room, and a shop. The bread pro- literature, and even skeletal bone analysis have duced in the bakeries of Pompeii would like- revealed much about the foods Pompeiians ly have been decorated with star anise, pop- loved to eat. In the 1970s, an archaeologist Fragment of a Roman bread stamp, py seeds, sesame, or egg white for crusting, named Wilhelmina Jashemski developed the dating from between the 1st and 4th much as we might do today. In most cases, technique of filling ancient root cavities with centuries AD. Similar examples would the loaves would have been branded with the plastic and identifying the species of the plant have been used by bakers in Pompeii. © Trustees of the British Museum maker’s stamp, used either for regulation by grown there at the time of the eruption. Root the baker’s guild, the Collegium Pistorum, cavities were left when the plant decayed in or as a means of tallying bread for pay- the time following the eruption and left an im- ment. One such loaf, found in Hercu- print in the hardened soil. Combining this with laneum, was stamped by “Celer, slave carbonized evidence found in suspected gar- of Quintus Granius Verus”. den areas, including seed remains, and pollen

30 Ancient History 13 den as a commercial area. This garden is now being planted to- day to mimic its use in 79 AD, predominantly as a working vineyard for commercial use. In fact, you can even buy the wine produced in the gardens of Pompeii today, named Villa dei Misteri after a villa found close to the site! analysis, Jashemski identified hundreds of spe- Famous Falernians: wine in Pompeii cies in the shop-house gardens, and vineyards. Much like the House of the Ship Europa, As you might expect of the average Mediter- many other commercial garden sites have ranean settlement, olive trees and grapevines been identified in the same area, closest to (Top) A fresco from Pompeii now on were the most prevalent in Pompeii, with the Amphitheatre. In the Caupona of Euxi- display at the National Archaeological vineyards sometimes covering whole blocks. nus, caupona meaning ‘inn’, another vineyard Museum of Naples. While it was previ- ously believed to be image of a baker Hazelnuts and almonds were also common, was found at the back of the property. Vines selling his bread, it probably is a scene often accompanied by broad beans, as in the were planted at regular intervals in rows, with of a politician giving out this food. House of the Ship Europa. The house was so room between for the gardeners to walk. If you © Public domain named after the etching of what appears to be were to take a quick tour around the modern (Bottom) Carbonised loaf of bread from a trade boat, named Europa, in the atrium of local area, you would find extremely simi- Pompeii, now on display at the National the property. It is thought that this residential lar vineyard conditions, squeezed into green Archaeological Museum of Naples. house may have been converted into a work- spaces between shops, houses, and blocks of © Beatrice / Wikimedia Commons ing space focused around the use of the gar- flats, propped up by stakes and ropes. As we

Ancient History 13 31 know from ancient literature, , the equivalent of and used as a substitute region in which Pompeii resides, was famous for salt, a very expensive seasoning in ancient for Falernian wine. A price list on the wall of a times. The sprawling estate of Pompeii’s most bar in Pompeii even states: “For one ‘ass’ you famous garum producer, Aulus Umbricius can drink wine, for two you can drink the best, Scaurus, demonstrates the lucrative business for four you can drink Falernian.” It could be of producing and selling this popular dress- that this wine was even produced in one of ing; himself names Scaurus’s the gardens in Pompeii. In fact, Falernian was garum “best fish ”. Mosaics inside his one of the served by the nouveaux riche home boast of “Scaurus’ best garum, mack- fictional character Trimalchio. A figment of erel based, from Scaurus’ manufactory”, and the ancient writer ’s imagination, “, grade one, from Scaurus’ manu- Trimalchio simultaneously delights and dis- factory.” As a matter of fact, 30% of the jars gusts his many dinner guests with culinary found in Pompeii are labelled as Scaurus’s illusions. A boiled calf wearing a helmet, own concoction, with many establishments saffron-squirting cakes, cooked chickens sit- in the town being attributed to him. ting on goose eggs, and a accom- panied by piglets made of pastry are just Diet diversity some of the outlandish ideas employed by The Romans were forever attempting to diver- Trimalchio to demonstrate his superiority sify their diets, and Scaurus would not have over his guests with food. Much as it is been alone in exporting his produce out- today, food was the perfect instrument for side of Pompeii. Pompeii was conveniently expressing one’s social status, this being si- placed on the Sarno River, allowing for the multaneous with the distance from which movement of goods in and out of the town one may import food to the table. Spices by water, mainly to the adjoining river town and seasoning, such as pepper, were perfect of Puteoli, an important trade point for Rome. examples of this, with pepper being imported As a result, Pompeii would have benefitted from as far away as India. greatly from the exotic produce coming into However, local produce was just as im- the city as well as exporting their own to local portant as imported goods, as a pottery object towns and beyond. One such category would found in the house of D. Octavius Quartio have been foreign fruit trees. The date palm, a proves. Small ledges run around the in- tree native to the Near East, was undoubtedly side of the jar with troughs placed at stages. grown in Pompeii. Frescoes from Pompeii and Known as a gliarium, this jar would have been Herculaneum show the plant growing either used for storing and plumping up dormice. in the ground or in pots. A large quantity of When fat enough, the little creatures would carbonized dates were found in the garden of be stuffed with mincemeat, seasoned, and the House of the Ship Europa, as well as at roasted, or covered with honey and poppy other locations in smaller volumes. Cereals, seeds and cooked. In fact, Trimalchio himself such as grains, lentils, and chickpeas, were served up dormouse kebab to his guests! No most likely imported into Pompeii via Pute- doubt Octavius Quartio would have relished oli from locations such as Egypt. Many other (Top) A mosaic depicting a jar of garum, from the house of Aulus serving up the same treat to his own guests. foods that became firm Pompeiian favourites Umbricius Scaurus in Pompeii. Scaurus Similarly distasteful to our modern , a were most likely imported, due to the inability seems to have done well for himself Roman delicacy known as garum was signifi- to grow them at home. Food such as figs and by producing this . cantly popular not only in Pompeii but much walnuts would have fallen into this category, © Claus Ableiter / Wikimedia Commons further afield too. Pompeiian jars of garum and both trees have been found depicted in (Top right) An actual bottle for the storage (for more, see issue 8 of Ancient History), a frescoes in the city. Beautiful paintings of lem- of garum; Marked with the text: "ALCAST". condiment made by fermenting fish in seawa- on trees have been found adorning the walls This vessel was probably produced in the area around the Bay of Naples. ter in the sun, have been found as far away of the House of the Fruit Orchard in Pompeii. © Trustees of the British Museum. as France. The sauce was our modern-day Excitingly, root cavities thought to belong to

32 Ancient History 13 the species have been found in several houses these foods would have been in Pompeii, all from the regions closest to the available to almost all citizens Amphitheatre. We find other edible fruits and in Pompeii. However, where vegetables depicted in paintings in the Vesu- you ate was a different matter, vian area, the most notable being asparagus, most definitely dictated by your a highly regarded and delicate food, as well class. As a visitor to Pompeii today, as strawberries, mulberry, and quince. It may walking along the many cobbled streets, be that these foods were indeed grown in one comes across hundreds of shop fronts the area, but the evidence points mostly to with the characteristic countertops punctu- their importation. The Pompeiian cabbage, ated with large dolia, or jars, for holding food. however, was noted by Pliny himself, who Such dolia would have been filled with stews, states that in this local variety, “tenderness is bread, and nuts, among other options. Known a valuable quality.” Another agricultural au- as thermopolia in ancient times, these food thor, , also mentions the Pompeiian joints have now famously been dubbed the An ornate silver drinking vessel, show- ing scenes from The Odyssey. Dating cabbage. No doubt guests being served this ‘McDonalds’ of ancient Rome. This descrip- from the early 1st century AD, when local vegetable, already considered a Roman tion is not far from reality, as food would have such pieces were extremely popular. It table luxury, would have been even more im- been hot and literally ready to go. But who would not have been out of place on the table of one of Pompeii's wealthy pressed to find it was Pompeiian! Similarly, would have frequented the thermopolia dot- citizens. Now in the Getty Museum. the Plinian cherry, so named due to its epony- ted around Pompeii? Unlike today where eat- © Public domain mous critic’s praise of the variety, would have ing out is a sign of affluence, it was quite the been found growing in Campania, as would opposite in Roman times. At the end of a long the pompeiana cepa, the ‘Pompeiian ’. work day, the poorer ranks of society would Other foods, such as carrots, almonds, ha- fill the streets and buy food from their favourite zelnuts, and olives, were found to have been fast-food shop. They may even frequent one of grown in abundance in the ancient city. the many drinking inns, or tabernae (taverns), in the local area, gamble a little with friends, Roman fast food? and, if they were lucky, pick up a woman. The Still life with glass bowl of fruit and vases, painted around the year 70 AD, found in This great variety of diet would not have been ancient equivalent of pubs were renowned the House of Julia Felix in Pompeii. restricted to the upper echelons of society; for attracting shady sorts, and would not have © Carole Raddato / Wikimedia Commons

Ancient History 13 33 been a place to go if you weren’t willing to end the evening with a test of muscle. On the more privileged side, those who had any interest in preserving their reputations would not be caught dead in the city’s roadside inns and fast-food shops. Though their homes may have even incorporated one of these shops at their house front, as was common in ancient town planning, they would not be fre- quenting the establishments themselves. Instead, they would take a light meal at home on more quiet evenings, host, or visit an acquaintance’s dinner party. Here they would sit down to a feast of home- grown cabbage, boiled ostrich, roasted wild boar, boiled eggs in pine nut sauce, and seasoned and , all A lararium, from an insula in Pompeii. washed down with honeyed wine, perhaps These small shrines were dedicated also from a local vineyard. Honeyed dor- to household gods. Various foodstuffs mice may also have made an appearance. were often placed at these locations as part of different religious rituals. From All wine, spiced or not, would be watered Pompeii. Die neuesten Ausgrabungen down, or boiled in lead containers to make von 1874-1881, by Emile Presuhn. it sweeter. During their feasting, whether © Public domain rich or poor, Pompeiians would not have forgotten to set a metaphorical place at the table for their household gods. This place would have been found in their household la- rarium, or shrine. Most often a fixed struc- ture in private homes, dedi- cations of animal and plant remains would be made at the lararium, a shrine for the Lares, or household gods. tified amongst the offerings, in addition to Shrines in the streets of Pom- plant remains, most commonly stone-pine peii, thought to be sites of cones, figs, dates, grapes, and hazelnuts. dedications for the neighbour- The exact conditions of a ritual for a spe- hood’s gods, have also been cific god had to be kept to the letter or else excavated. Many lararia in the dedication itself would be rendered use- Pompeii have been found with less. Prayers would most often be followed burnt organic remains from by libations, the shrine perhaps decorated the last offering or ritual car- with flowers and incense, and with food and ried out by the family or, in objects of value being offered by fire. As a more wealthy households, Roman citizen would have witnessed in the by their slaves. Animal , Roman priests would have killed an remains such as chicken animal, such as a bull, under the correct sa- and pig bones have been iden- cred conditions and offered a portion of its

34 Ancient History 13 meat to the gods. Although available to most , the Pompeiians knew how to eat The thermopolium of Vetutius Placi- individuals in Roman society, meat was a well. While odd at moments, the Pompeiian dus in Pompeii. Similar establish- ments could be found in most Roman more valuable commodity than today. After diet wasn’t that different from the diet we en- towns and cities and provided a quick the gods were given their fill, the rest of the joy today. In many cases, it was a lot healthi- meal for the average joe. The circular sacrificial meat would be taken home by the er! Perhaps Petronius’s Trimalchio wasn’t too holes in the countertop shown above would have held dishes and jars priests or, if dedicating privately, eaten by far off the mark after all. AH of food, not unlike some modern the family. In other words, it was almost like restaurants. the sitting down to dinner Jessica Venner holds an MA in Classical Civ- © Carole Raddato / Flickr with the gods, and sharing their meals. ilisation from Birkbeck, University of Lon- Whether a pauper or a wealthy busi- don. Her research interests are dedicated to nessman, a priest, or a god, all citizens of the late Republic and early Empire of An- Pompeii enjoyed a varied diet. From exotic cient Rome, specialising in ancient gardens, lemons and home-grown cabbages, to their landscapes and identity formation in Roman own local wines and a variety of meat and society. She lives and works in London.

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