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MEININGER‘S WBI - 1 - 2020 ❯ specialreport Fondo Europeo deDesarrolloRegional ProWein 2020 Top 100@ Best ofSpain 66 Una manerade hacerEuropa THE TOP 100 FROM

A large contingent of expert tasters gathered in Germany to taste and rate nearly 400 outstanding Spanish . Their challenge? To whittle the list down to 100. These are their choices.

s in previous years, the Spanish As expected, the Albariños dominated in against the background of advancing climate Institute for Foreign Trade ICEX spectacular fashion, but a from change, the north-west region of Spain will Aheld a comprehensive Spanish the more continental region of Ribeiro was probably take on a leading role in quality in Meininger Verlag’s tasting rooms. also selected, as was one of the noteworthy growing on the in the future. The interest among producers was greater newcomers from the north-west. Antonio With a dozen wines on offer, the central than ever, with almost 400 samples received in Montero’s Cepas Vellas could be considered one region was able to supply a notable contingent, Neustadt in autumn 2019. The event was held of the insider tips of this tasting. In any case, something that should not necessarily be taken over two days, presenting a snapshot of the the good performance of the Galician wines for granted. Apart from Finca La Estacada and current scene that could hardly must be seen as extremely positive because, Bodegas Volver, outsiders like Encomienda be more representative. Good results for

Once again, it was not easy to make the final selection of the 100 outstanding wines. Nevertheless, a surprisingly balanced picture emerged, with the list throwing up one or two real surprises. For example, Romale, a producer from southern , won out against various representatives of the original cava heartland of . There was also a quality from Castile-La Mancha which performed similarly well. As with the last edition of the Top 100, Galicia proved to be very reliable, offering a consistently high standard. Spanish expert David Schwazwälder Taster Christoph Nicklas

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Price category I

€2.50 to €3.50 (ex-cellar) 2016 Sonsierra Crianza DOCa Rioja Alta, 2018 Señorío de Rubiós Condado do Tea Bodegas Sonsierra, S.Coop, H10 / B165 Blanco DOP Rías Baixas, Señorio de Rubiós SPARKLING WINE Dark fruit and subtle wood spice on the nose; S.L., H10 / A104 elegant and spicy, with good potential A fresh white blend with aromas of herbs, laurel, mint, and ice candies; lean on the palate, with a La Fabrica du Sueños Organic Vegan DOP spicy finish Cava Brut, Emporio Wines S.A., H10 / D161 2016 Alvarado Crianza DOCa Rioja, Dcoop/ Smoky yeast, light woody notes, some pineapple Baco, H10 / B203 and exotic fruits; juicy, light acidity Easy drinking Crianza with fruit and spice; lively 2018 D. Pedrao de Soutomaior DOP Rías acidity, lean, with a medium length finish Baixas, Viñas e Adegas Galegas S.L.U., H10 / B93 2017 Privilegio de Romale Reserva brut Lots of citrus fruit in the aroma, light and fresh; nature DOP Cava, Bodegas Romale SL, 2016 Corona de Aragón Special Selection lean and slightly sharp on the palate, firm acidity H10 / D171 DOP Cariñena, Grandes Vinos y Viñedos SA, Ripe aromas with notes of brioche, yellow H10 / C104 fruit, and guava; lightly floral; very dry and Balsam notes on the nose, aromas of fig and 2018 Antonio Montero Autor DOP Ribeiro, straightforward cassis; juicy on the palate, with integrated Vinos Antonio Montero S.L.,H10 / B93 tannins, good length Inviting nose with pineapple, white flowers and grapefruit notes; juicy and balanced on the palate, fine acidity Price category II Evadine Organic DOP La Mancha, RED WINE Bodegas Verdúguez, H10 / A146 €3.51 to €5.00 (ex-cellar) Clear and fruity nose, lots of cherry and new wood; uncomplicated and drinkable SPARKLING WINE 2018 Ulula de Esteban Martin DOP Cariñena, Bodegas Esteban Martin, SL, H10 / C163 and provide floral spice, lilac, 2018 Tintoralba Ecológico Garnacha DOP 2018 Cava Brut DOP Cava, Naveran - sour cherry; velvety texture on the palate, juicy, Almansa, Bodega Tintoralba, H10 / B153 Sadeve SA, H10 / C185 with well-integrated Clean aromas of plums and subtle spice; high Yellow fruit on the nose, with quince, herbs, and residual sugar helps balance the tannin bay leaf; slightly peppery on the palate, subtle yeast notes, quite elegant 2018 Mas Collet DOP Montsant, Celler Capçanes, H10 / A81 2018 Borsao Selección Joven DOP Campo de Very interesting, rustic flavor, and Borja, Bodegas Borsao, S.A., H10 / C166 lavender, light bret; harmonious and round on Cherries and dark berries on the nose, quite the palate, very easy drinking young and reserved; uncomplicated and solid 2018 Martín Códax DOP Rías Baixas, Bodegas Martín Códax, H10 / C124 Bright and fresh with lots of white flowers and 2018 Viña Magna Tempranillo DOP Ribera del 2018 Olivares Tinto DOP Jumilla, Bodegas crisp citrus notes; consistently fresh and juicy on Duero, Dominio Basconcillos, H10 / B204 Olivares, H10 / F174 the palate, with a long finish Floral spice, some lilac, blue and red fruit on the Fresh, young Monastrell blend showing cherry nose, slightly reminiscent of ; juicy on the fruit and spice; juicy, with crisp tannins palate, very mild tannins 2018 Pazo de Villarei Albariño DOP Rías Baixas, HGA Bodegas y Viñedos de Altura SL, 2017 La Nymphina Monastrell DOP Yecla, H10 / D221 2017 Vulcanus Encomienda D Cervera Vino de Bodega Trenza S.L., H10 / B205 Herbal and honey on the nose; juicy and lively la Tierra Castilla La Mancha, Encomienda de Mediterranean spices and herbs on the nose, red on the palate, firm acidity and good length Cervera, H10 / C143 berry fruit; balanced on the palate, with slightly Cassis and cherry meet spicy notes and chocolate dry tannins on the nose; soft and harmonious on the palate, fine-grained tannins, refreshing acidity

69 MEININGER‘S WBI - 1 - 2020 palate spice onthenose;round andbalanced onthe Elegant offruitand withanappealingmixture Bodegas Terras S.A.,H10/B222 Gauda, 2016 Heraclio Alfaro Crianza DOCa Rioja, and acidity, withalongfinish onthepalate,harmonious withgoodstructure spice, forest floor, and toasted notes onthenose; fruit, withherbal andberry Very clearcherry H10 /C143 Campo deCalatrava, Encomienda deCervera, 2016 Vulcanus Alpha Horten Tempranillo but alsoelegant withaninvigorating acidity tannins andresidual sweetness onthepalate, onthenose;ripe fruit, cassis,Red alsocherry DOP Uclés, Finca H10/C155 laEstacada, 2016 Finca Estacade La Varietales Reserva juiciness forest fruit;leanonthepalate, butwithnice Pepper andfloral notes onthenose, with red Seccio Credit, SCCL, H10/A214 2016 Pinyeres DOPMontsant, Celler Masroig i spice alsoonthepalate, strong anddense olive, somecoal, andleather onthenose;dark spice,Dark alotoftobacco, herbs, black dry Silvano Garcia,S.L.,H10 /C226 Bodegas 2016 Viñahonda Crianza DOPJumilla, some cinnamon,goodageingpotential onthepalate, notes onthenose;juicy-dense Balsamic, mulberries, blackcherry, subtlespice H10 /B191 Viejas DOPCalatayud, S.L., Sommos Bodega Garnacha 2016 Alquez deSommos Viñas fruit andspice onthepalate, haspotential Fresh, chocolate red anddark fruitonthenose; Wines S.L.H10/A84 2017 Aduna Crianza DOCaFortuna Rioja, ❯ specialreport gripping tannins vintage, fruitpresent ripe rich onthepalate, with from madeCrianza Very ahottop skillfully Isidro Milagro S.A.,H10/C72 2015 5Oros Crianza DOCa Bodegas Rioja, the palate, salty andgoodbalancespice; minerality on enormous applefruit onthenose,Distinctive withsubtle Notas Frutales deAlbariño S.L.U., H10/B91 2018 La Trucha Baixas, Albariño DOPRías palate, with subtleminerality honey, onthe andice candyonthenose;juicy Clear andaromatic withtropical fruit, melon, y HGA Bodegas Viñedos deAltura SL,H10/D221 2018 Altos de Torona Baixas, RosalDOPRías palate the nose;consistently dry, fine yeast notes onthe pineapple, orange andapplepeel, andred fruiton Very exciting brutfrom with extra LaMancha, Balmoral, S.A.,H10/D131 Tierra deCastilla Mancha, La Viñedos 2015 Edoné Gran Cuvée extra brut Vino dela on thepalate, butdry stone fruitjuicy andredsubtle smokiness, fruitnotes; finespice Pear, applepeelandsubtleyeast autolysis, Cava, Mont Marçal, H10/D115 Baccus2016 SummumLacrima Brut DOP complex onthepalate vegetal notes, withsubtlespice; balanced and aromas and An exciting berry offruity mixture Leza Bodegas García, H10/B193 Rioja, 2015 Leza García Tinto Familia Crianza DOCa WHITE WINE WINE SPARKLING €5.01 to €8.00(ex-cellar) Price category III category Price 70 mature finish,with well-integrated acidity spice, andwhite pepperonthenose;soft, wine, withlotsofstone fruit, A goodsummery Ribeiro, doCasar, Ramon S.L.,H10/C111 doCasar2018 Ramon Treixadura DOP traditional style the nose;goodfood companion, haspotential; wood, fruit,Subtle spicy andginger ripe on Bodegas Tobia, H10 /B202 2016 Oscar Tobia BlancoDOCa Rioja, Reserva the palate, someflint, youthful goodbodyon the nose, withsomeblackberry; Concentrated coffee, chocolate and nougat on Luzon SL,H10/D133 2017 Altos deLuzón DOP Jumilla,Bodegas wine andstructureRed dense andwithfineacidity onthenose;juicy,fruit, honeyandnutbrittle After breathing shows complexity withyellow Baixas, Pazo deSeñorans S.L.U., H10/B92 2017 Pazo Señorans Albariño DOPRías good lengthy finish on thepalate withfreshness andminerality, Stone fruitandice candyonthenose;dynamic Baixas, deRubiósS.L.,H10/A104 Señorio deRubiósAlbariño DOPRías 2018 Señorío andcomplex onthepalatepowerful yellowRipe fruit, mango, fresh onthenose; Vins i Vinyes SL,H10/C94 2018 Nounat Mallorca Vi dela Terra, Binigrau palate, goodlengthy finish andstrong onthe peach onthenose;juicy Very fruity, withstone fruitaromas, especially Adega e Viñedos Paco &Lola, H10/B110 2017 Paco &Lola Baixas, Prime DOPRías RED WINE RED

2017, Quinta Del 67 DOP Almansa, Bodegas 2014 El Sueño de Amado Garnacha DOCa 2014 Nubori Vendimia Seleccionada Reserva Volver, H10 / C144 Rioja, Fortuna Wines S.L., H10 / A84 DOCa Rioja, Nubori SL, H10 / D93 Dark berries, elderberry and a lot of spice on the Concentrated and dense nose with dark berry Elegant, with dark fruit, spice and freshness on nose; extracted sweetness and polished on the fruit, smoky-spices; the strong, dense style the nose; fresh and balanced on the palate, fruity palate, has potential continues on the palate, high

2014 Finca Montote DOCa Rioja, Reserva de la 2017 VOLVER Traditional DOP La Mancha, 2015 Glorioso Reserva DOCa Rioja, Grupo Tierra, S.L., H10 / B84 Bodegas Volver, H10 / C144 Bodegas Palacio 1894, H10 / C221 Subtle, elegant aromas of forest berries and Distinct aromas of new wood, coffee and cocoa, Very elegant, with distinctive forest fruit and spice; good balance on the palate, lively acidity with dark berry fruit and spice; well integrated cherry aromas, with hints of black tea; firm on alcohol, soft tannins, nice length the palate and with intensity, good acidity, fresh 2017 Senda de Leñadores DOP Pago Aylés, Bodega Pago de Aylés, H10 / C116 2017 Cosme Palacio Crianza DOCa Rioja, 2017 Dehesa de Luna Garnacha Tintorera, Aromas of mulberries, liquorice and herbs on the Grupo Bodegas Palacio 1894, Agropecuaria Vallefrío Nueva, S.L., H10 / B154 nose; juicy and firm on the palate, ginger, dense H10 / C221 Dark forest berries and elderberry on the nose, and long finish Solid combination of fruit and spice aromas on with light spice; on the palate is an invigorating the nose, but also smoky; balanced and fresh on acidity and a nice tension the palate 2017 Maravides 12 Meses Castilla La Mancha, Viñedos Balmoral, S.A., 2017 Tres Picos Borsao Garnacha DOP Campo H10 / D131 2016 La Celestina DOP , de Borja, Bodegas Borsao, S.A., H10 / C166 Dark berry fruit, plums, subtle wood on the nose; Avanteselecta H10 / C142 Rich dark berry fruit, strong roasted notes of firm acidity, well integrated wood on the palate, A robust, rustic wine: pumpernickel, black coffee and mocha, black bread on the nose; with fine tannins, and good length bread and malt, with cherry fruit on nose juicy and dense on the palate, with stable and palate; lean, juicy and with good tannin tannins structure 2016 Florentino DOP , Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro SL, 2016 La Estacada Syrah DOP Uclés, H10 / D71 2016 Les Sorts Sycar DOP Montsant, Celler Finca la Estacada, H10 / C155 A modern style, with new wood, coffee, caramel Masroig i Seccio Credit, SCCL, H10 / A214 Plums, balsamic notes, and eucalyptus on the and dark forest berries on the nose; a lot of Clear, but balanced oak, with, cinnamon, cherry, nose; spice, good acidity and good tannin extracted sweetness and soft tannins, but with and salted liquorice; substantial, with toasted structure on the palate potential oak on the palate, smooth

2016 El Pacto DOCa Rioja, Vintae Luxury Wine 2015 Oscar Tobía Reserva DOCa Rioja, 2015 Monte Real Reserva DOCa Rioja, Specialists, H10 / A131 Bodegas Tobia, H10 / B202 Bodegas Riojanas, H10 / C231 Classically styled with a spicy and animal aroma, A modern style of Rioja, with aromas of dark Quite classic in style, but with exciting berry fruit subtle pepper, ripe berry fruit; also ripe and spicy forest fruits and clear roasted notes of wood; and earthy spice on the nose; firm tannins, nice on the palate elegant and spicy on the palate with smooth complexity tannins

2015 Leza García Reserva DOCa Rioja, 2015 Hidalgo Castilla Reserva, DOP La Bodegas Leza García, H10 / B193 2015 Finca Mónica Reserva DOCa Rioja, Long Mancha, Bodegas Verdúguez, H10 / A146 Pronounced berry and cherry fruit, with Wines S.L., H10 / B173 Notes of wood, coffee and dark berry fruit on the chocolate and tobacco on the nose; the palate is Very dense, and concentrated, dark cherry and nose; on the palate are soft tannins and a good complex and elegant, with a nice length berry fruit, subtle spice on the nose; mature, with lengthy finish a solid tannin structure

71 MEININGER‘S WBI - 1 - 2020 of structure; very moderate very alcoholof structure; the nose, alsoclearflor yeast; elegant, withalot Light andnutty, withhints of almondandhay on SL, H10/A234 DOP Jerez-Xérès-, Barbadillo Bodegas deBarrameda Sanlucar Solear salty-yeasty, almondnotes on thepalate Very light aromas ofalmondsandlemonzest; Perez Barquero S.A.,H10/C184 Gran Barquero Fino DOPMontilla-Moriles, good length andbalanced onthepalate,on thenose;juicy Concentrated jam,andcherry red fruit, raspberry H10 /C226 Silvano Garcia, S.L., Jumilla, Bodegas 2016 Silvano GarciaDulce Monastrell DOP palate, butnottoo long-lastingfinish rich, tobacco onthenose;withintensity onthe and fruit, earth, Elegant, withsubtlered berry H10 /A131 DOCa Rioja, Vintae Luxury Wine Specialists, 2011 HaciendaLópez deHaro Gran Reserva on thepalate and chocolate aromas; stabletannins, alsospicy Harmonious, forest withripe berries, tobacco Bodegas Valdemar, H10/D201 2012 Conde Valdemar DOCa Rioja, Reserva the palate, withfinetannins fruitonthenose;elegant on andcherry berry from acool top vintage,A beautifulReserva Muriel Wines, S.L.,H10/A162 2014 Viña MurielReserva Tinto DOCa Rioja, onthepalate,juicy finetannins, invigorating acidity Spicy, earthy, and withsubtlefruitonthenose;soft Negro), H10/A156 Castilla Meraven Mancha, La (Finca Rio 2015 Finca Negro Rio Vino dela Tierra de ❯ specialreport potential the palate, densewithspice andpacked with clear toasted notes onthenose;isyouthful on Harmonious, berries, withliquorice anddark Resalte dePeñafielBodegas SAU, H10/A82 delDuero,2016 Resalte DOPRibera Origen astringent anddense, stillclearly juicy and blackcherry; herbaceous-floral inthescent, lilac, elder Dominio Basconcillos, H10/B204 2017 Viña delDuero, DOPRibera Magna tannins and figonthepalate, integrated with well very notesmalt, onthenose;balsamic slightly lactic fruit, subtlyvegetal, some andcherry berry Dark H10 /B124 Duero, Comenge y Bodegas Viñedos, S.A., 2017 Comenge del DOPRibera elOrigen the palate, someflint, youthful goodbodyon the nose, withsomeblackberry; Concentrated coffee, chocolate andnougat on LuzonBodegas SL,H10/D133 2017 Altos deLuzón Crianza DOPJumilla, clear,slightly malty; palate, firm densebutnotfat herbs, andspice, wormwood, tobacco, citruszest, Slightly reminiscent ofnatural wine, withearth, H10 /C201 2016 Clos BlancDOPMontsant, Maria Perinet, palate, withgoodacidity tropical fruitsonthenose;polished acacianotes,Ripe, floral spicy honey, and H10 /B91 Baixas, Notas Frutales deAlbariño S.L.U., 2017 Finca GarabelosAlbariño DOPRías RED WINE RED WHITE WINE €8.01 to €10.00(ex-cellar) Price category IV category Price 72 tannins, andalong-lastingfinish fruit, sometobacco onthenose;firm berry Old school, rather fineanddelicate, bright red H10/A164 Ollauri, Bodegas 2015 Conde delosAndes Tinto, DOCa Rioja, finish fresh andelegant, withapleasingspicy, peppery allspice, alsosmokedmeat; onthepalate also Fresh, witharomas ofmint, pomegranate, H10 /C134 Otazu, 2015 Bodega Vinos de Pago, further. pleasing winethat hasthepotential to evolve tannins, subtlebitter notes. slightly drying Avery fruitandbalsamiconthenose; berry Dark Viñedos SA,H10/C104 2015 Anayón DOPCariñena, Grandes Vinos y minerality, elegant acidity, longfinish very fineand firm atthesametime,gripping very light yellow onthenose; stone fruit, shortbread tea, with herbs, spices, fennel-anise-cumin Very complex and multi-layered onthenose, Baixas, Pazo deSeñorans S.L.U., H10/B92 2010 Selección deAñada Albariño DOPRías wine friendly elegant andclassiconthepalate. food Avery spice onthenose; fruitandearthy berry Ripe Muriel Wines, S.L.,H10/A162 2010 Viña DOCa MurielGran Rioja, Reserva, nuances onthepalate, overall elegant and alittlemochaonthenose;creamy-lactic Harmonious, withalotofforest fruitaromas H10 /B165 Sonsierra, Alta, S.Coop, Bodegas Rioja 2014 Pagos DOCa delaSonsierra Reserva WHITE WINE over €10.00(ex-cellar) Price category V category Price RED WINE

2016 Trenza Family Collection DOP Yecla, 2012 Gran Vinya Son Caules DOP Plà i Llevant 2017 Palador Crianza DOCa Rioja, Bodegas Bodega Trenza S.L., H10 / B205 de Mallorca, Vins Miquel Gelabert, Valdelana, H10 / D161 Dense and dark, with graphite, black berries, H10 / A212 Juicy fruit and fresh oin the nose; fresh and tobacco and some coconut on the nose; dense Earth and undergrowth, roasted and spicy, black young on the palate, with potential on the palate, with great balance and maturity cherry and forest fruit on the nose; ripe and complex on the palate, with a fine acidity

2016 Avelino Vegas Aureo DOP Ribera del 2014 Balbás Reserva DOP Ribera del Duero, Duero, Avelino Vegas SA, H10 / D143 Bodegas Balbas, H10 / C106 2001 Classica Hacienda López de Haro Gran Clear aromas of plum jam and red berry fruit, a lot Cool spice with aromas of liquorice, sage and Reserva DOCa Rioja, Vintae Luxury Wine of spices overall on the nose; potential mint, with ripe dark red fruit; fine balsamic Specialists, H10 / A131 impression on the palate, full-bodied and juicy Traditional style, with hints of leather, dark forest fruit, well-packed roasted notes on the nose; a 2016 Viña Sastre Crianza DOP Ribera del lot of spice on the palate, still vital, good food Duero, Bodegas Hnos. Sastre, S.L., H10 / C183 2017 Petra de Valpiedra DOCa Rioja, Viña companion Classic Ribera del Duero, fruity nose with Bujanda, H10 / B232 cherry, plums, wild berries and minty spice; well Light and light fruity style, with red fruits such FORTIFIED WINE integrated tannins, peppery on the palate as cassis and cranberry, and sour cherry, with peppery spice on the nose; fine wood, sour and juicy fruit on the palate, great freshness Amontillado Olvidado 20 Vol DOP Jerez- 2015 Martin Cendoya Reserva DOCa Rioja, Xérès-Sherry, Sanchez Romate, H10 / D81 Eguren Ugarte S.A., H10 / B122 Dark and ripe with notes of nuts, pumpernickel, Tobacco, black and red fruit and dark chocolate on 2016 Regina Vides DOP Ribera del Duero, honey and roasted chestnuts on the nose; the nose; on the palate it is spicy, long and complex Bodegas Hnos. Sastre, S.L., H10 / C183 classically dry on the palate, piquant and rather lean Very engaging nose with a clear, skillful use of wood; notes of caramel, roasted almonds and 2015 Haragan Reserva Especial DOP Ribera del walnut, rich berry fruit, and herbal spice; velvety Gran Barquero DOP Montilla- Guadiana, Pago Los Balancines, H10 / D175 tannins, balsamic flavours on the palate Moriles, Perez Barquero S.A., H10 / C184 Black fruit aromas, tea spices, cassis, subtle floral Ripe with almond, nutshells, caramel and on the nose; firm on the palate and juicy-tart candied fruit on the nose; on the palate, salty 2015 Proelio Cepa a Cepa DOCa Rioja, and nutty, caramel, harmonious and a long finish Palacios Vinos de Finca, H10 / A74 2013 Eguren Ugarte Reserva DOCa Rioja, Beautiful Christmas spice, cinnamon bark, dark Eguren Ugarte S.A., H10 / B122 red berry fruit, very harmonious on the nose; Gran Barquero Amontillado DOP Montilla- Fruit-driven, but showing surprisingly little good, solid tannins, fine acidity, complex palate Moriles, Perez Barquero S.A., H10 / C184 ripeness; firm tannins and freshness Classic Amontillado with aromas of candied nuts, roasted almond, some yeast, dried stone 2014 Palador Reserva DOCa Rioja, Bodegas fruit on the nose; substantial and very dry, fine 2011 Conde Valdemar Gran Reserva DOCa Valdelana, H10 / D161 saltiness Rioja, Bodegas Valdemar, H10 / D201 Rich black fruit, but not over-concentrated, with Elegantly and mature, with chocolate, forest berry, smoky notes and dark chocolate on the nose; a and cedar aromas; balanced, astringent, distinctly dense, concentrated palate, spicy and long 1990 Don PX DOP Montilla-Moriles, Bodegas spicy Toro Albala SL, H10 / D185 Complex nose with licorice, herbs and spices, 2012 Pérez Pascuas Gran Selección Gran orange zest, and almond notes, extremely 2011 Torrent Negre Selección Privada Reserva DOP Ribera del Duero, Bodegas concentrated; dense on the palate, balsamic, Anniversari DOP Plà i Llevant de Mallorca, Hnos. Pérez Pascuas, S.L., H10 / C132 but with underlying sweetness, brilliantly Vins Miquel Gelabert, H10 / A212 Very classic style, with dark spice, rich black balanced Robust, with a scent of meat, smoke and dried cherry and forest berry fruit, rum pot on the mushrooms; elegant on the palate, good acidity, nose, also some subtly vegetal notes; brilliant smoky, nice length acid freshness, ripe tannins, very complex

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