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Home , Ribera del Duero, Spanish wine

New Directions: T H E WINESWINES OF Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW

ust twenty years ago, only three Spanish and its own government. The Catalans, very indus- regions had any international presence: , trious and business-like, have forged a thriving wine J Penedés (for sparkling and for the industry that boasts two major wine regions, Penedés Torres wines), and of course, the region. Now, and Priorat. But you could say Cataluña has three Spain seems to sprout new wine regions every year! wine regions, because — Spain’s sparkling Three factors precipitated the “New Spain”: the wines made in the (méthode passing of the repressive Franco regime in the mid- champenoise) — has its own, country-wide D.O., but ‘70s, Spain’s entry into the in 1986, Cataluña produces over 95 percent of Spain’s Cavas. and the improvements in technology that swept through the wine world in the 1980s. Since Cava (Penedés) th e ‘80s, Spain has been playing energetic “catch-u p ” A little-known fact: Spain, not , is the with its neighboring, established wine countries, world’s largest producer of . Freixenet, France and It a ly, on the international stage. which also owns Segura Viudas, is far and away the In the 1970s, Spain established its world’s largest sparkling wine producer — many system, Denominación de Origen (D.O.). From only a times bigger than Moët & Chandon, the largest handful of wine regions recognized as D.O. twenty house. years ago, the number jumped to 39 D.O.’s ten years If your customers want to spend only $10 ago. Spain today has more than 60 D.O. regions, and retail for a decent bubbly, Cava is their best bet. two — Rioja and Priorat — merit the highest classi- Three local white are the basis of most Cava: fication, Denominación de Origen Calificada (D.O.C.), Macabéo (known as Viura in Rioja), Xarel-lo, similar to ’s DOCG category. and . Cava has a distinctive, earthy, Four wine regions seem to be Spain’s hottest mushroomy flavor, and is always dry. In addition right now : Pened és, Priorat, , to Freixenet and Codorniu (the second-largest and Rias Baixas. producer), six other top Cavas are Paul Cheneau, Mont Marçal, Segura Viudas, Cristalino, Marqués Cataluña: A World of its Own de Monistrol, and Juve y Camps (a bit pricier). When you arrive in busy Barcelona, its citizens make it clear to you that you are in Cataluña, not Penedés beyond Cava “Spain.” Cataluña, in Northeast Spain, has its own Any discussion of Penedés’ still wines must language, Catalan, nearer to Latin than to Spanish, begin with Torres, one of the world’s great family- owned . Winemaker Miguel Torres pioneered Ribera del Duero French varieties, such as and Castilla y León, in Northcentral Spain, is home to , in Spain. Torres wines offer terrific value, Ribera del Duero, now recognized as one of the world’s from the two $10 red bestsellers, Sangre de Toro great regions. Ribera del Duero is about equidis- (- blend) and Coronas (Tempr a n i llo- tant from and Spain’s northern border. The vine- Cabernet Sauv i gnon blend) on up to Gran Coronas Black yards are more than 2,000 feet in altitude, climate is con- Label, a powerful, yet elegant Cabernet Sauvig non that tinental, and the soils contain limestone and iron — com- retails in the $40 to $45 range. bining ideal growing conditions for red . thrives in this region, making wines with body, deep color, and finesse. If your customers want to From the 19th century to well after World War II, the spend only $10 retail for a decent only great in Ribera del Duero was the legendary — whose Unico wine, rare and expensive bubbly, Cava is their best bet. ($150+), is universally recognized as a world-class red. Then in the 1980s, Alejandro Fernández released his Pesquera. The acclaim that Pesquera received from both Freixenet is now also in the still wine business. Its wine critics and consumers put Ribera del Duero on the wines include the inexpensive René Barbier and wine map. Pesquera is still one of the top Ribera del Duero two fascinating Segura Viudas wines. Creu de Lavit is red wines, with prices starting at about $18 for the basic entirely Xarel-lo (pronounced cha REL lo); its a subtle but bottling. Other well-priced ($18 to $20) Ribera del Duero complex that’s probably the world’s first vari- reds include Valdubón and Torremorón. In the $30 to $40 etal Xarel-lo; the red Mas d’Aranyo is mainly Tempranillo. range, some fine Ribera del Duero reds to look for include Both retail for $15 to $16. We particularly recommend Bodegas Mauro, Viña Pedrosa, and Bodegas Téofilo Reyes. Creu de Lavit. Rías Baixas Priorat Rías Baixas (REE ahse BYCHE ahse), tucked away in No region has been in the spotlight late- the southern part of province in northwest Spain, ly more than Priorat. Nestled in the steep hillsides of the is one of the world’s hottest white wine regions. We use Sierra de Montsant mountain range in the Catalan “hot” in terms of “in demand,” not climate, because Rías province of Tarragona, Priorat is about 100 miles south- Baixas is cool and damp a good part of the year, and ver- west of Barcelona, but an auto trip takes over three hours, dant year round. The local variety is Albariño, because of the poor, very winding roads. known as Alvariño in northern . The volcanic soil in Priorat, composed Rías Baixas boasts 190 wineries com- mainly of slate and schist, is so infertile pared to only 30 or 40 just a decade ago. that not much other than grapes can Modern winemaking, cool climate, and grow there. The climate is harshly conti- low-yielding vines have combined to nental: very hot, dry summers, very cold make Albariño wines a smashing suc- winters. The steep slopes must be ter- cess, especially in the U.S. We love this raced; many can only be lively unoaked white, with its vivid, flo- worked by hand. And grape yields are ral aromas and flavors reminiscent of very low. white peaches and green apples. Amazingly rich, powerful red wines It’s a perfect match with seafood and have emerged from this harsh land- fish. Albariños to look for include scape. They’re made primarily from the Bodega Morgadío, Lusco, Bodegas two native Spanish grapes, Grenache Martin Codax, Fillaboa, and Vionta; all and Carignan. Many are as rugged as are priced in the $16 to $18 range. the land, with high tannin and ; With red wines from Priorat and some wines are so high in alcohol (up to Ribera del Duero, exciting Albariños from 18 percent!) that they have an almost Rias Baixas, and both still and sparkling port-like sweetness. Because winemaking in Priorat is wines from Penedés, Spain is now poised to earn its fair not cost-effective, to say the least, and the quantities are share of recognition on the international wine market. so small, the wines are necessarily quite expensive; most begin at about $40 retail, and go up from there. Priorat Ma r y Ewing-Mulligan and Ed McCarth y are the authors of the best-selling Wine For reds to look for include Clos Mogador, Clos Erasmus, Du m m i e s , For Dummies and For Dummies. Ma r y is the pres i - dent of the International Wine Center in New York City. She writes a column for the NY Alvaro Palacios, Clos Martinet, l’Hermita, Morlanda, Da i l y News and is America's first female Master of Wine (MW). Ed is the sole author of Ch a m p a gne for Dummies. He writes for Wine Enthusiast Maga z i n e , and Undergrou n d and Pasanau. Wine Jou r n a l . Toget h e r , th e y share a column in Nation's Restaurant News .