New Directions: T H E WINESWINES of SPAIN Ed Mccarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW
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New Directions: T H E WINESWINES OF SPAIN Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW ust twenty years ago, only three Spanish wine and its own government. The Catalans, very indus- regions had any international presence: Rioja, trious and business-like, have forged a thriving wine J Penedés (for sparkling wines and for the industry that boasts two major wine regions, Penedés Torres wines), and of course, the Sherry region. Now, and Priorat. But you could say Cataluña has three Spain seems to sprout new wine regions every year! wine regions, because Cava — Spain’s sparkling Three factors precipitated the “New Spain”: the wines made in the traditional method (méthode passing of the repressive Franco regime in the mid- champenoise) — has its own, country-wide D.O., but ‘70s, Spain’s entry into the European Union in 1986, Cataluña produces over 95 percent of Spain’s Cavas. and the improvements in winemaking technology that swept through the wine world in the 1980s. Since Cava (Penedés) th e ‘80s, Spain has been playing energetic “catch-u p ” A little-known fact: Spain, not France, is the with its neighboring, established wine countries, world’s largest producer of sparkling wine. Freixenet, France and It a ly, on the international stage. which also owns Segura Viudas, is far and away the In the 1970s, Spain established its appellation world’s largest sparkling wine producer — many system, Denominación de Origen (D.O.). From only a times bigger than Moët & Chandon, the largest handful of wine regions recognized as D.O. twenty Champagne house. years ago, the number jumped to 39 D.O.’s ten years If your customers want to spend only $10 ago. Spain today has more than 60 D.O. regions, and retail for a decent bubbly, Cava is their best bet. two — Rioja and Priorat — merit the highest classi- Three local white grapes are the basis of most Cava: fication, Denominación de Origen Calificada (D.O.C.), Macabéo (known as Viura in Rioja), Xarel-lo, similar to Italy’s DOCG category. and Parellada. Cava has a distinctive, earthy, Four wine regions seem to be Spain’s hottest mushroomy flavor, and is always dry. In addition right now : Pened és, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, to Freixenet and Codorniu (the second-largest and Rias Baixas. producer), six other top Cavas are Paul Cheneau, Mont Marçal, Segura Viudas, Cristalino, Marqués Cataluña: A World of its Own de Monistrol, and Juve y Camps (a bit pricier). When you arrive in busy Barcelona, its citizens make it clear to you that you are in Cataluña, not Penedés beyond Cava “Spain.” Cataluña, in Northeast Spain, has its own Any discussion of Penedés’ still wines must language, Catalan, nearer to Latin than to Spanish, begin with Torres, one of the world’s great family- owned wineries. Winemaker Miguel Torres pioneered Ribera del Duero French varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Castilla y León, in Northcentral Spain, is home to Chardonnay, in Spain. Torres wines offer terrific value, Ribera del Duero, now recognized as one of the world’s from the two $10 red bestsellers, Sangre de Toro great red wine regions. Ribera del Duero is about equidis- (Grenache-Carignan blend) and Coronas (Tempr a n i llo- tant from Madrid and Spain’s northern border. The vine- Cabernet Sauv i gnon blend) on up to Gran Coronas Black yards are more than 2,000 feet in altitude, climate is con- Label, a powerful, yet elegant Cabernet Sauvig non that tinental, and the soils contain limestone and iron — com- retails in the $40 to $45 range. bining ideal growing conditions for red wine grapes. Tempranillo thrives in this region, making wines with body, deep color, and finesse. If your customers want to From the 19th century to well after World War II, the spend only $10 retail for a decent only great winery in Ribera del Duero was the legendary Vega Sicilia — whose Unico wine, rare and expensive bubbly, Cava is their best bet. ($150+), is universally recognized as a world-class red. Then in the 1980s, Alejandro Fernández released his Pesquera. The acclaim that Pesquera received from both Freixenet is now also in the still wine business. Its wine critics and consumers put Ribera del Duero on the wines include the inexpensive René Barbier varietals and wine map. Pesquera is still one of the top Ribera del Duero two fascinating Segura Viudas wines. Creu de Lavit is red wines, with prices starting at about $18 for the basic entirely Xarel-lo (pronounced cha REL lo); its a subtle but bottling. Other well-priced ($18 to $20) Ribera del Duero complex white wine that’s probably the world’s first vari- reds include Valdubón and Torremorón. In the $30 to $40 etal Xarel-lo; the red Mas d’Aranyo is mainly Tempranillo. range, some fine Ribera del Duero reds to look for include Both retail for $15 to $16. We particularly recommend Bodegas Mauro, Viña Pedrosa, and Bodegas Téofilo Reyes. Creu de Lavit. Rías Baixas Priorat Rías Baixas (REE ahse BYCHE ahse), tucked away in No Spanish wine region has been in the spotlight late- the southern part of Galicia province in northwest Spain, ly more than Priorat. Nestled in the steep hillsides of the is one of the world’s hottest white wine regions. We use Sierra de Montsant mountain range in the Catalan “hot” in terms of “in demand,” not climate, because Rías province of Tarragona, Priorat is about 100 miles south- Baixas is cool and damp a good part of the year, and ver- west of Barcelona, but an auto trip takes over three hours, dant year round. The local grape variety is Albariño, because of the poor, very winding roads. known as Alvariño in northern Portugal. The volcanic soil in Priorat, composed Rías Baixas boasts 190 wineries com- mainly of slate and schist, is so infertile pared to only 30 or 40 just a decade ago. that not much other than grapes can Modern winemaking, cool climate, and grow there. The climate is harshly conti- low-yielding vines have combined to nental: very hot, dry summers, very cold make Albariño wines a smashing suc- winters. The steep slopes must be ter- cess, especially in the U.S. We love this raced; many vineyards can only be lively unoaked white, with its vivid, flo- worked by hand. And grape yields are ral aromas and flavors reminiscent of very low. white peaches and green apples. Amazingly rich, powerful red wines It’s a perfect match with seafood and have emerged from this harsh land- fish. Albariños to look for include scape. They’re made primarily from the Bodega Morgadío, Lusco, Bodegas two native Spanish grapes, Grenache Martin Codax, Fillaboa, and Vionta; all and Carignan. Many are as rugged as are priced in the $16 to $18 range. the land, with high tannin and alcohol; With red wines from Priorat and some wines are so high in alcohol (up to Ribera del Duero, exciting Albariños from 18 percent!) that they have an almost Rias Baixas, and both still and sparkling port-like sweetness. Because winemaking in Priorat is wines from Penedés, Spain is now poised to earn its fair not cost-effective, to say the least, and the quantities are share of recognition on the international wine market. so small, the wines are necessarily quite expensive; most begin at about $40 retail, and go up from there. Priorat Ma r y Ewing-Mulligan and Ed McCarth y are the authors of the best-selling Wine For reds to look for include Clos Mogador, Clos Erasmus, Du m m i e s , French Wine For Dummies and Italian Wine For Dummies. Ma r y is the pres i - dent of the International Wine Center in New York City. She writes a column for the NY Alvaro Palacios, Clos Martinet, l’Hermita, Morlanda, Da i l y News and is America's first female Master of Wine (MW). Ed is the sole author of Ch a m p a gne for Dummies. He writes for Wine Enthusiast Maga z i n e , and Undergrou n d and Pasanau. Wine Jou r n a l . Toget h e r , th e y share a column in Nation's Restaurant News . .