Peter Sisscek's PSI (Ribera Del Duero, Spain)

Peter Sisseck’s PSI A New Vision of Ribera del Duero’s Future

aving established Pingus as a new bench- to augment the health of vineyards (and wallets mark for greatness in Spanish wine, Peter of their owners) throughout the region. Sisseck has embarked on a new quest: to H The Long View produce a wine that captures the soul of Ribera del Duero. And he intends to do so by harnessing the Of course, a region with Ribera’s long history passion of the region’s growers who have, does not change overnight. But for far too long, lacked the tools, capital since 2006, Peter has worked tire- and vision to make a wine that is truly lessly with former Alonso y Yerro “theirs.” And thus Ψ PSI was born.

R A R E W I N E C O. winemaker Pablo Rubio to identify It is a Utopian idea, the basis of which the vineyards and growers with the is Peter’s passionate belief in organic most potential. and biodynamic farming, as well as his Their aim is to move these growers, gratitude to the region for giving a step-by-step, towards farming health-

T H E young Danish winemaker the opportu- ier vineyards and getting better fruit. nity to make arguably Spain’s most coveted wine. The duo is making available to each grower not PSI only their expertise in organic and biodynamic farming, but locally made preparations. They sup- Named after the 23rd letter of the Greek ply technical advice without being “didactic.” And, alphabet, Ψ PSI emerged from a thought that as the quality improves, they are rewarding grow- had haunted Peter since he first arrived in Ribera ers with higher prices for their fruit. del Duero in 1990. A Search for Soul He always felt that though region’s old vineyards While the goal for Pingus is to test the upper lim- had enormous potential, the quality of local its of Tinto Fino, the goal for Ψ PSI is subtler farming was poor. Historically, growers had been but perhaps just as profound: to find the soul of paid by the ton, in other words, for quantity and Ribera del Duero. There will be experimentation not quality; they therefore had little incentive to cut yields. And the excessive use of chemicals in with winemaking as the project develops, but the this region gave substance to Claude Bourgig- primary concept is to eschew many of the mod- non’s vivid description of vineyard soils having ern techniques used in the region today. less microbial life than the Sahara Desert. The partners will employ long, gentle macera- Much work would be needed to restore the soil tions to get the most harmonious extraction pos- and improve viticultural practices, but Peter real- sible from their grapes. And they are using a ized that buying the oldest vineyards was unlike- relaxed élévage in a mix of large and small oak ly, given the growers’ deep attachment to their casks and cement tanks, with virtually no new land. But what if he could involve the growers in wood. The early wines are subtle, delicate, and as a cooperative project, to produce better, more compelling as anything seen in modern Spain. natural grapes? Between the time commitment with growers, and By changing the economic incentives, and active- the relatively modest prices, it’s clear that Ψ PSI ly engaging the growers’ passion for their land, is a true labor of love. It’s an astonishing long- he might be able to obtain the kind of healthy, term obligation, but Peter feels this is a way to balanced fruit that he desired, while also helping give back to a region that has given him so much.

OVERVIEW The Wine Established: 2006 First Vintage: 2007 Ribera del Duero Proprietor and winemaker: Peter Sisseck Fruit Source: Multiple growers throughout General Manager: Pablo Rubio Ribera del Duero. Organic or biodynamic

PSI is a “neo-cooperative” venture between the growing is encouraged. partners, and many of the best independent Avg. Yields: <40 hl/hA grape growers in Ribera del Duero. Fermentation: 30+ day maceration with punchdown. VINEYARD INFORMATION Upbringing: ~18 months in a mix of cement Soils: Various calcareous clay and sand. tanks and old barriques and large barrels. Vines: 100% Tinto Fino Avg. Production: 4,000 cases (2008) Elevation: average ~750 m Appellation: Ribera del Duero Harvest: by hand

VINTAGE NOTES 2008 – A second consecutive vintage with a cooler summer. Mildew was a problem in some vineyards, and one needed to harvest very later to achieve fully-ripe grapes. 2007 – A challenging year, with a coolish summer, that was saved by a long, beautiful late-ripening season. The wines are fresh and balanced.

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