The Canary Islands Are One of the World's Richest Treasure Troves for Vines, with Varieties Unlike Those Found Anywhere Else G

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The Canary Islands are one of the world’s richest treasure troves for vines, with varieties unlike those found anywhere else growing naturally on their own ungrafted roots. In the past, Canary wine was famous enough to have been VOLCANIC mentioned by William Shakespeare (1564-1616); today at least 33 grape varieties, most of them native, regale the nose and palate. All seven major islands in the archipelago make wine, but thanks to groundbreaking work by pioneering oenologists and viticulturists, some truly stand out. SURVIVORS

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PHOTOS EFRAÍN PINTOS/©ICEX

The grapevines of Spain’s Canary Alexander the Great (356-323 BC) Phylloxera-resistant non-Vitis (holes) and protecting them with 2009, “Malvasía Volcánica”, which honey. Its lingering finish was Islands are rare, precious survivors would have recognized. vinifera American roots, inevitably abrigos (overcoats). “The prevailing offers herbal hints and a clean reminiscent of bright summer fruit. from an ecological disaster that No one could have predicted that altering aromas and flavors, winds (vientos alisios) come from finish. He also makes rosé (rosado) Solera 1881 was almost forever changed the nature of Spain’s discovery of America would except here in the Canary Islands, the northeast,” said Javier from Listán Negro. mahogany dark with aromas of global winemaking. Adding to the unleash devastation on the historic which have remained miraculously Betancourt of the DO Lanzarote Bodega El Grifo, DO Lanzarote, is figs and vibrant orange peel. Its drama, all around the beautiful vineyards of the Old World. Yet, the free of infection. Regulatory Council. one of the ten oldest wineries in huge palate was amazingly full of islands you see evidence of a arrival of a louse, an unwanted Bodega Los Bermejos, DO Spain. Within its vineyards you find life, with a luxurious mystery that violent, volcanic past. This story American import if ever there was Lanzarote, Lanzarote, was founded in 2001 Muscatel vines so old they could only age confers. begins 20 million years ago when a one, did exactly that. It caused and makes five styles, i.e. “20% of have been planted just after the last Bodegas Stratvs, DO Lanzarote, is massive telluric collision between irreparable damage to Europe’s vines set in black the island’s production,” said eruption. Winemaker Tomás Mesa one of the flagship wineries of the the Africa and Eurasia continental (at that time most of the world’s) obsidian manager Ana de León. Their 20 ha Guanche began working here in Canary Islands. Winemaker Alberto plates caused a tear in the earth’s wine industry. The accidental (49 acres) of organically cultivated 2007, when he joined 15 full-time González Plasencia (born on nearby mantle. The tectonic pile-up caused introduction in 1860 of a North In 1730, Lanzarote was again vines are supplemented with 250 ha staff, a number that rises to 38 La Gomera) vinifies 350,000 liters, explosions of lava to erupt through American bug wrecked for all time a convulsed by eruptions that spewed (618 acres) owned by 200 small during harvest. “We are able to “of which 20% is our production.” the Atlantic Ocean and billions viticulture that had taken thousands continuously for six years. A quarter growers. “The Diego (white) variety cultivate and maintain our old, Infinite care is taken, with of tons of magma to cool, forming of years to perfect. of the island was coated in ash and is generating interest,” she said. historic varieties without relying on manually-selected grapes kept in islands like scar tissue on the From the moment Phylloxera lava. Drought and another eruption Camels imported centuries ago help plantations from elsewhere,” said a chilled chamber overnight before Earth’s surface. (a tiny aphid) arrived in Europe, it in 1824 made life hard. To survive, carry harvested grapes from the Mesa. El Grifo makes three solera- gentle pre-fermentative crushing. But the history that makes these began voraciously infesting vines farmers dug through ash to ﬁnd vineyards to the winery, said De style Canary wines from 100% White grapes are Malvasía and islands so special for wine is more this side of the Atlantic with an remnants of topsoil and lovingly León, conjuring one of European Malvasía: 1997, 1956 and two Diego, while reds include Tinta recent. Clinging onto ash black incurable root-withering disease. planted vines capable of ﬁnding winemaking’s most evocative barricas (barrels) dating from 1881. Conejera and Listán Negro, with soils, atop hillsides windswept by “The Phylloxera louse induces the water and converting it into images. Bodega La Geria is The older two can occasionally be Muscatel reserved for sweet Canary. trade winds on these rocky volcanic vine to reject its own roots and, treasured grapes. To avoid silting up strategically situated in La Geria sampled at trade fairs. The ‘97 was Nitrogen excludes oxygen and the specks in the vastness of the hence, effectively commit suicide,” the resulting cones, little stone nature reserve and receives 300,000 dark orange and had a solera’s latest 14,000-liter Ganymede Atlantic Ocean, you find vines explained wine expert Hugh windbreaks were built on each vine’s visitors annually, each being offered oxidative style, mingling traces of stainless steel tanks, with CO2 that maintain a living link with Johnson. To overcome this blight, windward (northeastern) side. The wine to taste. Winemaker Alejandro wood with huge orange marmalade bypass valves to break the musts’ an ancient viticulture that growers have had to graft vines onto practice is known as digging hoyos Besay makes refreshing Manto aromas surrounded by hints of caps, are used for fermentation.

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PHOTOS EFRAÍN PINTOS/©ICEX

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His Tinto Roble 2008 spent six landslide-provoking floods, lashed Carballo’s star wine is a traditional La Gomera: aromas, showed evidence of well- very pleasant. Another producer, months in oak (US and French) and the island in August 2009, and Malvasía, of the type Shakespeare integrated wood. On the palate it Ramón Marichal Felipe, makes Los was 60% Listán Negro and 40% Bodegas Carballo, DO La Palma, lost would have recognized. “Only a feisty promising was very dry. Winemaker Ricardo Roquillos 2009, with 70% Listán Tinta Conejera. Its clean fruit was the few Engaja vines it had been tourists in the know buy it,” he said, comeback “Richard” Gutiérrez de Salamanca Negro and equal measures of reminiscent of New World wines propagating. “In Madeira the variety while showing me photographs of oversees 140,000 liters annually Tintilla, Rubí and Castellana (a while retaining some unique is known as Sercial,” he said. One At the heart of La Gomera are the from 210 members, of which Canary grape, despite its name) bills of lading dating from the 16th refinement derived from the bottle of 2006 survived. Harvested ancient woodlands of Garajonay “around 40” use the cooperative which exuded dark berries cocooned century, when 6,000 liters of La minerals in its black obsidian with a total acidity of 6.6 in sulfuric National Park, intact survivors from facilities regularly. Carmen Fino, in oak-influenced leathery nuances. Palma wine were loaded onto ships ash-rich soils. Crianza 2007 was (10.1 in tartaric) and vinified after the Tertiary Period (65 million-1.8 who looks after the commercial side, Montoro 2009, by C.B. Montoro, is 60% Tinta Conejera and 40% gentle crushing, it—the original bound for America. A fount of million years ago). Skirting it, in lamented the steady loss of historic an ambitious blend of Forastera Listán Negro. Greater vineyard age wine—fermented totally to leave 2 g history, Carballo explained that Santa valleys and slopes on all sides of this terraced slopes. Some ascend for Blanca, Listán Blanco, Muscatel, will improve these wines. (0.07 oz) residual sugar per liter. “The Cruz de La Palma was, at its peak, round island, are steeply terraced hundreds of feet. “I hope it is only a Pedro Ximénez and Malvasía that, variety was often used to naturally the Spanish empire’s third most vineyards, many now in disuse, a cyclical trend and that the need for though low on aroma, had great La Palma, correct acidity without having to rely important port, after Antwerp (now testament to the hardy determination sustainable agriculture may see them structure. Aceviñón 2008, by la isla bonita on tartaric acid,” said Carballo. As in Belgium) and Seville (southern of resident Gomeros. Enthusiastic resurrected,” she said. Antonio Arteaga Santos, combined soon as it decanted naturally, with no Spain). A prestigious imperial court winemakers under the At Arure, on the western side, María Listán Negro (50%) with Syrah, encouragement of DO La Gomera Eliseo Carballo is a fifth generation filtration, it was placed in 50 cL of law, Juzgado de Indias, was based Milagros Santos Negrín has turned Tempranillo and Merlot. True Merlot president Armenia Mendoza and on the nose, it also had attractive winemaker on La Palma, the most bottles. Gorgeous light amber in here, creating a need for top-quality three old caves, once used by her verdant of the islands. Its beauty and color, it had clean, honeyed aromas of talented technician Nancy Melo are ancestors to store agricultural hints of Listán. wines to satisfy demanding judges tranquility are celebrated in fleshy peaches. In mouth it was dry injecting new life into production. produce and tools, into the modern and lawyers. Carballo said that by Madonna’s song, “La Isla Bonita,” with explosive, glycerin-laden fruit Bodegas Insulares in Vallehermoso Bodega Las Cuevas Santos Negrín. the 19th century, La Palma Tenerife, referring to its nickname among vaguely reminiscent of a solera style. demonstrated, with its barrique- Her Viña Cheo 2009 blends 80% islanders.“My ancestors include “It’s precisely an aperitif wine,” said hosted refined cultural events and fermented Cumbres de Garajonay Listán Negro with recently-planted the driving force original Benahoaritas natives who Carballo, accompanying it with had electric lighting; telephones; 2007, the quality of the Negramoll and Syrah, and offered Every revolution has its defining intermarried with invading Spaniards almendrado biscuits made from a cinematograph; two theaters; and autochthonous white Forastera complex aromas of Morello cherries moment. For the Canary Islands this in the 15th century,” said Carballo. A ground almonds, egg yolks, lemon Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves, the Blanca variety. Fresh fruit, mingled and ripe plums. On the palate it was came when a gifted chemist turned devastating fire, followed by rind and sugar. archipelago’s most imposing festival. with coconut hints and sweet lemon light, needing firmer tannins, but his attention to winemaking. Juan

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CANARY ISLANDS

complexity and roundness, the mature grapefruit, only comes with age,” said Batista. Gual 2008 (tank sample) exuded brambles, apple peel, greengage and gooseberry and had an unctuous, firm structure in mouth. “It still needs bottle finesse,” said Méndez. With two years in bottle, Gual 2007 was delightfully rounded, brimming with bright fruit and summer floral hints. It immediately gave the impression of having spent time in wood. “Juan Cacho (research chemist) used chromatography and discovered it contained whisky lactone, a compound found in products that have had contact with wood,” said Méndez. But it never touched wood, said Batista. Jesús Méndez Siverio had been must, and then wine by using lecturing at La Laguna University for (Danish) WineScan technology that Ancient Portuguese around a decade when his father allows 17 measurements at once. “In confided that age had gotten the three minutes it does what used to influence better of him. Ever since he take a laboratory technician all day,” The first serious growers on the could remember, Méndez had helped he said. He uses gravity or, at worst, islands were Portuguese, and for his dad, a small-scale farmer and peristaltic pumps. These devices, years their varieties and cultivation shoemaker, harvest ancestral originally developed to carefully techniques prevailed. “My dad used vineyards and make wine for pump red blood cells through dialysis them,” said Méndez, adding that domestic consumption. The prospect machines, are expensive but very Gual has a curious oxidation of giving up horrified Méndez, gentle. You can detect the loving care process, slow and very noble, so he took on the family tradition, taken wherever you look in Viñátigo, unlike most whites. Another such applying scientific insight to and it comes as no surprise to find grape, Verdello, is not related to improve techniques, allowing him that true love blossomed between mainland Verdejo. It is found only to run a small winery and also Méndez and his oenologist, Elena in the Azores, Canary Islands and continue his academic career. The Batista. After 14 years making wine Madeira, said Méndez. The 2009 results are worthy of the widest together, they married in April 2010. (tank sample) had the complexity international recognition. Even greater meticulousness is of Gual but even greater aromatic At La Guancha, on the north coast, he observable in the vineyards, where magic. But the star white was built Viñátigo, DO Ycoden Daute year after year Méndez has Marmajuelo. This variety is Isora, a technologically-advanced painstakingly compared vine originally from El Hierro, “the real winery named after a Tertiary Period performance to terroir characteristics repository of pre-Phylloxera tree species (Laurus indica) common to and obtained astonishing results. varieties of Spain,” said Méndez. the area. Méndez uses satellite links to Thanks to the inherent quality of The 2008 exhibited a big, attractive track vineyard developments to the Canary vines, Viñátigo’s white wines nose with subtle hints of pear, finest detail, including how thirsty the today are setting standards matched pineapple, passion fruit and melon. plants are for water. Each wine can be only by wineries in northwest Spain. “It’s our most tropical grape,” he traced back to its vines. At every stage An example is Gual. “The 2009 said. Méndez noted that what before bottling he analyzes grapes, Gual is tough, undrinkable; all its surprised him most in over a

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decade of research into recuperating leading to velvety tannins and a local varieties was how well tightly structured finish. Some say structural complexity, attractive this wine is Méndez’s masterpiece, aromatic compounds and acidity but he insisted greatness comes coalesce despite relatively high when a blended wine succeeds daytime temperatures. “There isn’t globally. Tacande 2006 is Viñátigo’s another region of Spain where all first coupage: 60% Baboso these characteristics come together (aromatic beauty, base), the rest in so successfully,” he said. equal proportions is Tintilla Success hasn’t been restricted to (structure), Vijariego (acidity) whites. Negramoll is a grape found and Negramoll (silkiness), all under different guises from the cultivated and vinified separately, Bosporus to the Canaries. Romanian then blended. wine expert Dan Muntean said it is related to Negru Moele, found Improvements 3,000 mi (482 km) away at the eastern end of the Mediterranean. are vineyard based Viñátigo’s 2009 tank sample was The full potential of reds in the soft and round, with well- Canaries is yet to be explored, said polymerized tannins. Aromatically Rodrigo Mesa and Jorge Zerolo, it was Gamay-like, with appealing partners in Arca de Vitis, DO Valle ripe plum fruitiness. Méndez de Güímar, a company that has said it is a difficult grape which can invested heavily in local grape easily spoil in the vineyard unless varieties and is making excellent subjected to careful pruning, wines. “The hard work has to be which he is still perfecting. For done in the vineyards,” said Loles steep vineyard work, Méndez Pérez Martín, who worked in has designed a robot tractor he Bordeaux and then with Peter built in Switzerland. “It’s very Sisseck at Dominio de Pingus in DO small, operated remotely with a Ribera del Duero before becoming joystick,” he said. winemaker at Bodegas Buten in El Tintilla is a grape that develops Sauzal. Her Cráter 2006 was a excellent color and tannins. “Its supple and deliciously balanced DNA hasn’t been found elsewhere,” 65% Listán Negro, 35% Negramoll. said Méndez, adding that its The bigger, more complex Magma phenolic maturation is very tardy, 2006 (soon to be 2008) is a 50-50 so it must be harvested late to avoid Syrah-Negramoll blend harvested herbaceous qualities emerging in from venerable vineyards that now the wine. The 2007 was aged in observe biodynamic practices Allier oak and exuded dark learned while working with Sisseck. chocolate and red berries in a deep, Bodegas Monje, DO Tacoronte- aromatically polished manner. A Acentejo, at La Hollera in El Sauzal bottle sample of Baboso 2008 had a was built around a farmhouse huge, perfumed nose redolent of handed down at least five violets, flowers and juicy fruit generations, said Felipe Monje.

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Today it houses a modern winery producing an extensive array of styles as well as a wine appreciation space (designed by architect Isabel Monje), which also serves as a musical and artistic venue. Tajinaste, in northern DO Valle de La Orotava, farms 6 ha (15 acres) of immaculately tended 15-year-old Listán Negro, Albillo, Marmajuelo and Verijadiego Negro, with their own remotely monitored weather station in the vineyard. From 120,000 kg (own and rented vines), Agustín García (father and son) look for mineral nuances to shine through the purity of clean fruit. Their Listán Blanco 2009 succeeded, also showing the yeasty that Shakespeare referred to it flowers. This impressive co-op effects of battonage from the 30% of several times in his plays. (Tenerife’s Bodegas Insulares, DO the blend that went into new oak. “I will to my honest knight Tacoronte-Acentejo) has a great Currently they are propagating Falstaff, and drink canary with range. Humboldt Vendimia Tardía cuttings from their own vines, using him.” Act 3, Scene II, The Merry was a mouth-filling sweet Listán massal selection, in a bid to increase Wives of Windsor. Blanco, while the port-like grape production. Its beneficial effects were also felt Humboldt red is made from Listán on the other side of the Atlantic. Negro that spent 18 months in Canary: “There is evidence that after signing American oak. the Declaration of Independence, Shtype beingakespe the categorare’y thats does Thomasestablished Jef ferson(albeit (thirin possessiond president of Elconsumer Hierro: patterns are emerging, tipplebest there. One representative of ofstocksUnited of old States, wine), 1743-1826) are showing promising a suitably exciting future this category is Bodegas Osborne’s suggestedsigns of inter a toastest in with brandy a wine. One that thefor this treasurevenerable Spanish chest classic. Cooking with Christopher Columbus stopped at Magno, a long-established brand appearsexample tois Reyhave Fer beennando Canar de y,Castilla,” said Hierro means iron, the element the Canaries on September 6, 1492 Jerez-born journalist and author Brandy de Jerez which, three years ago, acquired an gastrwhoseonomy Fernandoexper det ManuelCastilla Iglesias.Único whose oxides provide a red stain to before setting sail on his fateful, Paz Ivison specializes in food and wine. older sibling in the form of Alma de Noand doubtEdición fortified Especial by labels it, Spanish are what is the most recent volcanic first voyage of discovery. Winner of Spain's Premio Nacional de Magno, a Solera Gran Reserva soldiersfinding themselves inflicted a arar comfortablee defeat on island (1.2 million years old). Its Subsequent travelers who colonized Gastronomía, she has published several Brandy de Jerez has a lot to offer on incorporating Brandy de Jerez are de Jerez-infused foie gras brandy which has been particularly England’niche in sthe for upperemost echelons Admiral, of new topsoil, full of ferruginous America rapidly realized the books, including El Vino: Uso y the cooking front, and there are many on the menus of the recommended (Perdiz rellena de foie gras al well-received in Mexico, which Horatiothe market,Nelson particularly (1758-1805), in who mineral and ash content, nourishes restaurants incorporated into the Brandy de Jerez) potential of winemaking part way Protocolo (Temas de Hoy). She is a recipes, both traditional and modern, has always had a soft spot for Brandy lostScandinavia his right (specifically arm in a failed Nor waybattle, some of Spain’s most fascinating that capitalize on its particular excellent local wine tourism routes El Faro del Puerto to the New World. Thus, the regular contributor to publications such (Jerez, Brandy Capital, page 32). de Jerez. Legendary brand Centenario, toSweden captur ande T enerife.Denmark). Today most grape varieties. Some trace their qualities. Urta (red-banded sea Avda de Fuentebravia s/n. Canaries became a vital port of call as Joyce, Vogue, GQ España The following examples give some with its readily recognizable yellow Meanwhile, back in Sanlúcar de bream) is a local fish that is cooked in Tel.: (+34) 956 870 952 before tackling arduous ocean Canary wineries offer a version of andancestrGQy México, to Middle El EconomistaEastern traders idea of what to expect: mesh and Andalusian white horse Barrameda, big-name thwinery various ways, including the classic www.elfarodelpuerto.com crossings where wine remained what Elizabethan (16 century) andlike Elthe Mundo. Phoenicians, who used Urta al brandy. Local chefs have long La Mesa Redonda El Puerto de Santa María drinkabletrademark far(originally longer than a Bodegas water, merBarbadillochants isreferr alsoed backing to as Canar Brandyy, de Spain’s offshore islands as staging since adopted the technique of Manuel de la Quintana 3 Lobster tails served on a bed of whichTerry pr hasoduct, a tendencynow owned to tur byn USgreen orJer ez,Canar clevery Sack.ly giving Sack its may newly- be a posts before the Greeks and injecting Brandy de Jerez into poultry Tel.: (+34) 956 340 069 parsley-root purée flavored with multinational Beam Global) relaunchedference Solerato saca BB, the brand final astage very Romans. These vines have survived, and other meat before roasting, www.restaurantemesaredonda.com Brandy de Jerez (Colas de langosta and go off in hot conditions. st achieving flavor-packed, juicy results. Jerez de la Frontera sobre puré de raíz de perejil al Englishis also notable traders for became achieving particularly an 21wher-centure winey islook removed and feel. from Designed a untroubled by Phylloxera, for In the region’s restaurant cuisine, Fillets of local bream stuffed with wild Brandy de Jerez); Brandy de Jerez fondimpr essiveof “Canar comeback.y,” imposing strict specificallysolera for bottling.for drinking Viña withNorte’ cola-s centuries in this distant and Brandy de Jerez is the spirit of choice mushrooms and steamed with Brandy flavored chocolate soup served guidelinesQuite apart about from thesehow tobig cultivate, names, typeHumboldt mixers Malvasía (it works Clásico beautifully!), 2005 isolated paradise. for flambé dishes and for desserts de Jerez (Lomos de sargo rellenos de with mango and red fruit sorbet (Sopa featuring chocolate (a match made in rebozuelos al vapor de Brandy de de chocolate al Brandy de Jerez harvariousvest wineriesand make in their Jerez,pr someeferre ofd itwas is clearlya vibrantaimedwhite at raedolent younger of wild Over the last decade, two varieties heaven). These and other dishes Jerez); Partridge stuffed with Brandy con sorbete de mango y frutos rojos) themproduct. small-scale Its fame and grew recently to the point public.honey, mapleOne way syrup and and another summer, new have emerged as superstars:

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Jerez, Brandy capital

Jerez, situated just a few kilometers Spain and noteworthy both for its source of such classics as Lepanto production, so that much of the parent product: the 18-year-old Gran years, though it also does extremely from the Atlantic Ocean, has more great age and for its zoological brandy and Tío Pepe fino sherry. landscape is kept verdant, even Duque de Alba XO, and the 25-year- well in Italy, the US and Mexico. It is Viinhabitantsjariego and than Baboso. Cádiz, the Both provincial have solarcollection. orientations, The gardens, using establishedGuyot The winery complex includes a showed hints of oak, the 2006 was Blanco 2004. Fresh peaches and products. No one can doubt the Baboso,pavilion known as Bodegaa rising La during the long, hot, consistently old Gran Duque de Alba Oro, made by Sánchez Romate, one of the recapital,d and and white its many clones, stately with homes tintos trainingin 1869, extend on volcanic over 50 soils. ha (123 The first rounder, more developed. Baboso plums floated over a beautiful importance of their work, especially and elegant townhouses bear witness acres) and display 400 different plant Concha), reputed to have been dry summer months, which is when both of which are already distributed oldest wineries in Jerez, dating back totaking a glorious the plaudits.and prosper Onceous pastagain, andhar vest200 animalfor the species. new plots The waszoo’ s2009, designedsuperstar by Eiffel (of Parisian tower the2007 vines was ar hugee at theiron thepeak, palate, just with inhoneyed the Philippines. background With supplied a presence by towhen 1781 you and take still into run consideration by the same the (itMéndez has the had claim a todecisive fame of influence being in sostar look exhibit for is impr a whiteovements. tiger, the Theonly Babosofame). Another 2009 (barrexcellentel sample) resource had beforrumbustiouse harvest fruit time. held in place by inwell-integrated five Chinese prwood.ovinces, Customers New familyfragility. It of specializes their envir particularlyonment, andin for wine buffs is the association for theirthe second rediscover town iny Spain,and pr beforopagation.e small,one in Spainalmost (thoughgaragiste it haswiner beeny is large-scale tannins and crisp, fresh will never know what they missed. that of an economy so distant from Madrid and Barcelona, to install bred in the zoo). thespentRu tasfive del months, Vino y Brandy roughly del half its Brandy de Jerez is distributed all Zealand and Australia, Williams top-of-the-range brandies and has Gonzalo Padrón, once his housed in an Art Deco building Marco de Jerez (Sherry Wine and overacidity the surr world.ounded Wher byeas nuances up until of the & Humbert is consolidating its rethecently world’ brs oughtgreat markets. out two Onnew islands lines public street lighting). The Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte expected crianza (oak aging), in university student, invited Méndez Brandy de Jerez Routes), which take oak.th The 2006 showed great where vegetative growth tends to be Fount of sherry, brandy and Spain’s Ecuestrein El Pinar(Royal. Andalusian School of new Allier barriques (mainly 19 century, Europe, particularly AAustralasian pricel markets.ess legacy under its Cardenal Mendoza label, in nine districts, over 30 wineries, moto assessst prestigious a family breeds plot ofon hor Else Hierro. EquestrianIts vinification Art, www area.r ealescuela.oris on the g) marriage,Holland, constituted a beautifully the silken primary Beam Global Spirits & Wine Inc., againlong and examples slow and of ofcoolingfspring trade hotelsmedium and toast). restaur Onants, the and nose an it British wine expert Oz Clarke was (includingThe results the wer uniquee so white stunning that isgr inound a category floor and all its two own. barr It occupiesel mouthfeelmarket, today’ ands abiggest superbly customer long is present owner of the legendary outstrippingwinds keep temperatur parent: Caresdenal surprisingly deliverinformativeed fleshymuseum: fruit,El Misterio red plums de forthright about the need to protect underCarthusian),graduate this cityand has pr ofessoran amazingly a large palace surrounded by Jerez (The Mystery of Jerez Sherry). finish free of oaky interference, temperate, and where volcanic halls are in the basement.th and berries surrounded by wood- the Philippines, where Brandy de Fundador, is a close second, at least Mendoza Carta Real, 25 years old beganbeautiful working historic quarteron a joint. Reminders project gardens, designed in the 19 century A highly informative website in while the 2004 showed almost no and promote Canary Island wines. minerals infuse aromas and flavors of the various civilizations (the ancient byVi jFrariegoench arNegrchitecto 2009 Char les(barr Garelnier, related leathery hints. In the mouth Jerez sales have soared spectacularly. as far as the Philippines are and considered a star product, and called Tanajara, DO El Hierro. Spanish and English provides signs of aging compared to the “Phylloxera crippled Europe’s wine and altitude can be experimented and mysterious Tartessians among whosample) also designedwas fruit-driven the Paris withOpera, itsinformation mineral about qualities the r outesinfused Williams & Humbert is the leading concerned. This US company Cardenal Mendoza Non Plus Ultra, them)Padrón that coaxed have occupied his older the br siteother in , and incorporates an important previous vintage. industry and wiped out an enormous with, producers are making mold- dark blackberries and cranberries gloriously(www.rutadeljer ripeezybrandy fruit over.es). a meaty supplier in that particular market, acquired major brands and wineries around 50 years old and luxuriously Pedrthe courseo Nicolás, of its longto plant history 4 arhae (9.8 Carriage Museum. The School also Vijariego Blanco is easily the most amount of priceless genetic material,” breaking wines. cocooned in soft spice. The variety accounting for over 40% of Brandy of the caliber of Harvey’s, Terry presented in a craftsman-blown acrprovidedes) under by relicsMéndez’ from thes guidance Roman serves as the headquarters for one base held together by firm, refined acidic grape in the Canaries, he said. “It’s incredibly important that and earlier periods (the oldest remains ofcr opsSpain’ thrs eemost times captivating as much horse as de Jerez sales. It also leads the field (Centenario) and Fundador Domecq glass decanter. Extracted from a set tannins, great acidity and a long Méndez said. “It reaches 14-15 we should take the Phylloxera-free Harold Heckle is a correspondent in11 Spain). years Itsago splendid and the Arab resulting heritage shows, entitled Así bailan los at top-of-the-range (Solera Gran some years back. of 38 barrels from which only 800 Baboso, said Méndez, and allows fruit-and-leather finish. Méndez condition of the Canary Islands (thewines Alcázar have, batbecomehs, gar adens… legend); caballos andaluces (How Andalusian alcoholReserva) with level 8-9 with acidity its new in Alfonsotartaric,” half-literfor the Associated bottles Prarese s.taken Since perhe first year, them to vinify 15,000 liters said Baboso is more concentrated seriously, and that any promising old amongmedieval top town restaur walls;ateurshuge, and Horses Dance). heXO said. brand, Padrón backed admitted up by its they had Europe and thevisite latter—ad Spain as Brandy a studen det he Jer hasez kept Solera wineflamboyantly buffs in Gothic Spain. churches; Jerof Viez’jariegos busy festive to 7,000 calendar liters includes of and minerally than Vijariego, which given up making it because it broke vines be preserved and have cuttings himself connected with Spanish Renaissance palaces; and Baroque prestigious Gran Duque de Alba in Gran Reserva—sells at around 400 Demand began to exceed supply ViBaboso.noble (www Vijariego.vinoble.org), Negro a seduces trade fair tends to appeal to a younger all the preconceptions local buyers propagated. Who knows what jewels gastronomic culture. On this topic, buildings all coexist harmoniously, the same category. This latter brand, America euros, making it one of the most and other local growers started forwith special its abilityty, fortif toiedconvey and noble wines, clientele. This was confirmed by have for whites. “No one around we might discover for future as a journalist he has contributed to providing an enviable backdrop for a which is held every two years, and its originally created in 1942 by a small Another pacesetter in the export expensive on the market, second joyfully attractive ripe fruit with Padrón’s youngest brother, Martín, generations to enjoy?” he said. hikingheterogeneous, prices forand grapes,famously so li fe-Padrónand famous annual fair dedicated to herwinere wasy called willing Antonio to accept R. Ruiz that (no you field, especially within Europe, is onlythe BBC to Bodegasand magazines Garvey’ suchs Conde as fiesta-loving populace. the vaguest trace of sassafras on the who confessed he preferred planted more, opting for a massal horses and horsemanship, which is neededlonger in to existence, age a white,having so they been prFortunatelyemium br forand wine Cardenal lovers Mendoza, across the deDecanter Garvey, .Wine Magazine, and Among other attractive features is the heldnose, pur wherely foreasfun. Baboso This is, is of clear course,ly selection from the best vines. Vijariego Negro. Tasted vertically, dranktaken overit young by W andilliams the &high Humbert alcohol aworld, force ato gr beowing reckoned number with of sinceinspir ased TheWin eLatin & Spirits. AmericanHe ran market, the Wine Club Tatown’najaras Jardín now Botánico has a vineyar y Parqued at a favorimuchte bigger area for wine, wine tourism,able to and both varietals take a couple of years and acidity blew their mouths off,” viticulturists and wine producers on and the Spanish Wine Club with tastings Zoológico (Botanic Gardens and Zoo, always has been: the González Byass in 1993) has recently brought out long ago as 1871. It is a favorite in particularly Mexico, is another wwwLa Fr.zoobotanicojerontera and threz.com),ee at El one of winerycommand is the attention second most from visited in in bottle to knit in well with wood, hetwo said. new He premium solemnly brandies pulled which out the Germanythe Canaries, which have has taken been on its the majorat Canning destination House in forLondon Brandy for mor dee theLunchón, most inter eachesting with of itsdif kfinderent in thebeginning world, and to islong renowned finish. as the so that while Vijariego Negro 2007 lastare, rparemainingadoxically bottle, older of Vthanijariego their principalmantle and for areigne making market exceptional for many Jerthanez, a thedecade mid-r in theange 1980-90s. Solera Reserva

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Vijariego and Baboso. Both have solar orientations, using Guyot Baboso, a rising showed hints of oak, the 2006 was Blanco 2004. Fresh peaches and products. No one can doubt the red and white clones, with tintos training on volcanic soils. The first rounder, more developed. Baboso plums floated over a beautiful importance of their work, especially taking the plaudits. Once again, harvest for the new plots was 2009, superstar 2007 was huge on the palate, with honeyed background supplied by when you take into consideration the Méndez had a decisive influence in so look for improvements. The Baboso 2009 (barrel sample) had rumbustious fruit held in place by well-integrated wood. Customers fragility of their environment, and their rediscovery and propagation. small, almost garagiste winery is spent five months, roughly half its large-scale tannins and crisp, fresh will never know what they missed. that of an economy so distant from Gonzalo Padrón, once his housed in an Art Deco building expected crianza (oak aging), in acidity surrounded by nuances of the world’s great markets. On islands oak. The 2006 showed great where vegetative growth tends to be university student, invited Méndez in El Pinar. new Allier barriques (mainly A priceless legacy to assess a family plot on El Hierro. marriage, a beautifully silken long and slow and cooling trade Its vinification area is on the medium toast). On the nose it The results were so stunning that mouthfeel and a superbly long British wine expert Oz Clarke was winds keep temperatures surprisingly ground floor and two barrel delivered fleshy fruit, red plums undergraduate and professor finish free of oaky interference, forthright about the need to protect temperate, and where volcanic halls are in the basement. and berries surrounded by wood- began working on a joint project while the 2004 showed almost no and promote Canary Island wines. minerals infuse aromas and ﬂavors Vijariego Negro 2009 (barrel related leathery hints. In the mouth called Tanajara, DO El Hierro. signs of aging compared to the “Phylloxera crippled Europe’s wine and altitude can be experimented sample) was fruit-driven with its mineral qualities infused Padrón coaxed his older brother, previous vintage. industry and wiped out an enormous with, producers are making mold- dark blackberries and cranberries gloriously ripe fruit over a meaty Pedro Nicolás, to plant 4 ha (9.8 Vijariego Blanco is easily the most amount of priceless genetic material,” breaking wines. cocooned in soft spice. The variety acres) under Méndez’s guidance base held together by firm, refined acidic grape in the Canaries, he said. “It’s incredibly important that crops three times as much as 11 years ago and the resulting tannins, great acidity and a long Méndez said. “It reaches 14-15 we should take the Phylloxera-free Harold Heckle is a correspondent Baboso, said Méndez, and allows wines have become a legend fruit-and-leather finish. Méndez alcohol with 8-9 acidity in tartaric,” condition of the Canary Islands for the Associated Press. Since he ﬁrst among top restaurateurs and them to vinify 15,000 liters said Baboso is more concentrated he said. Padrón admitted they had seriously, and that any promising old visited Spain as a student he has kept wine buffs in Spain. of Vijariego to 7,000 liters of and minerally than Vijariego, which given up making it because it broke vines be preserved and have cuttings himself connected with Spanish Demand began to exceed supply Baboso. Vijariego Negro seduces tends to appeal to a younger all the preconceptions local buyers propagated. Who knows what jewels gastronomic culture. On this topic, and other local growers started with its ability to convey clientele. This was confirmed by have for whites. “No one around we might discover for future as a journalist he has contributed to hiking prices for grapes, so Padrón joyfully attractive ripe fruit with Padrón’s youngest brother, Martín, here was willing to accept that you generations to enjoy?” he said. the BBC and magazines such as planted more, opting for a massal the vaguest trace of sassafras on the who confessed he preferred needed to age a white, so they Fortunately for wine lovers across the Decanter, Wine Magazine, and selection from the best vines. nose, whereas Baboso is clearly Vijariego Negro. Tasted vertically, drank it young and the high alcohol world, a growing number of inspired Wine & Spirits. He ran the Wine Club Tanajara now has a vineyard at a much bigger wine, able to both varietals take a couple of years and acidity blew their mouths off,” viticulturists and wine producers on and the Spanish Wine Club with tastings La Frontera and three at El command attention from in bottle to knit in well with wood, he said. He solemnly pulled out the the Canaries have taken on the at Canning House in London for more Lunchón, each with different beginning to long finish. so that while Vijariego Negro 2007 last remaining bottle of Vijariego mantle and are making exceptional than a decade in the 1980-90s.

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