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The Canary Islands Are One of the World's Richest Treasure Troves for Vines, with Varieties Unlike Those Found Anywhere Else G

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The Canary Islands Are One of the World's Richest Treasure Troves for Vines, with Varieties Unlike Those Found Anywhere Else G 05 AF_EL VINO ISLAS II_1.qxd 5/8/10 09:12 Página 36 The Canary Islands are one of the world’s richest treasure troves for vines, with varieties unlike those found anywhere else growing naturally on their own ungrafted roots. In the past, Canary wine was famous enough to have been VOLCANIC mentioned by William Shakespeare (1564-1616); today at least 33 grape varieties, most of them native, regale the nose and palate. All seven major islands in the archipelago make wine, but thanks to groundbreaking work by pioneering oenologists and viticulturists, some truly stand out. SURVIVORS 36 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 37 05 AF_EL VINO ISLAS II_1.qxd 5/8/10 09:12 Página 36 The Canary Islands are one of the world’s richest treasure troves for vines, with varieties unlike those found anywhere else growing naturally on their own ungrafted roots. In the past, Canary wine was famous enough to have been VOLCANIC mentioned by William Shakespeare (1564-1616); today at least 33 grape varieties, most of them native, regale the nose and palate. All seven major islands in the archipelago make wine, but thanks to groundbreaking work by pioneering oenologists and viticulturists, some truly stand out. SURVIVORS 36 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 37 05 AF_EL VINO ISLAS II_1.qxd 5/8/10 09:12 Página 38 W CANARY ISLANDS I N E S TEXT HAROLD HECKLE/©ICEX PHOTOS EFRAÍN PINTOS/©ICEX The grapevines of Spain’s Canary Alexander the Great (356-323 BC) Phylloxera-resistant non-Vitis (holes) and protecting them with 2009, “Malvasía Volcánica”, which honey. Its lingering finish was Islands are rare, precious survivors would have recognized. vinifera American roots, inevitably abrigos (overcoats). “The prevailing offers herbal hints and a clean reminiscent of bright summer fruit. from an ecological disaster that No one could have predicted that altering aromas and flavors, winds (vientos alisios) come from finish. He also makes rosé (rosado) Solera 1881 was almost forever changed the nature of Spain’s discovery of America would except here in the Canary Islands, the northeast,” said Javier from Listán Negro. mahogany dark with aromas of global winemaking. Adding to the unleash devastation on the historic which have remained miraculously Betancourt of the DO Lanzarote Bodega El Grifo, DO Lanzarote, is figs and vibrant orange peel. Its drama, all around the beautiful vineyards of the Old World. Yet, the free of infection. Regulatory Council. one of the ten oldest wineries in huge palate was amazingly full of islands you see evidence of a arrival of a louse, an unwanted Bodega Los Bermejos, DO Spain. Within its vineyards you find life, with a luxurious mystery that violent, volcanic past. This story American import if ever there was Lanzarote, Lanzarote, was founded in 2001 Muscatel vines so old they could only age confers. begins 20 million years ago when a one, did exactly that. It caused and makes five styles, i.e. “20% of have been planted just after the last Bodegas Stratvs, DO Lanzarote, is massive telluric collision between irreparable damage to Europe’s vines set in black the island’s production,” said eruption. Winemaker Tomás Mesa one of the flagship wineries of the the Africa and Eurasia continental (at that time most of the world’s) obsidian manager Ana de León. Their 20 ha Guanche began working here in Canary Islands. Winemaker Alberto plates caused a tear in the earth’s wine industry. The accidental (49 acres) of organically cultivated 2007, when he joined 15 full-time González Plasencia (born on nearby mantle. The tectonic pile-up caused introduction in 1860 of a North In 1730, Lanzarote was again vines are supplemented with 250 ha staff, a number that rises to 38 La Gomera) vinifies 350,000 liters, explosions of lava to erupt through American bug wrecked for all time a convulsed by eruptions that spewed (618 acres) owned by 200 small during harvest. “We are able to “of which 20% is our production.” the Atlantic Ocean and billions viticulture that had taken thousands continuously for six years. A quarter growers. “The Diego (white) variety cultivate and maintain our old, Infinite care is taken, with of tons of magma to cool, forming of years to perfect. of the island was coated in ash and is generating interest,” she said. historic varieties without relying on manually-selected grapes kept in islands like scar tissue on the From the moment Phylloxera lava. Drought and another eruption Camels imported centuries ago help plantations from elsewhere,” said a chilled chamber overnight before Earth’s surface. (a tiny aphid) arrived in Europe, it in 1824 made life hard. To survive, carry harvested grapes from the Mesa. El Grifo makes three solera- gentle pre-fermentative crushing. But the history that makes these began voraciously infesting vines farmers dug through ash to find vineyards to the winery, said De style Canary wines from 100% White grapes are Malvasía and islands so special for wine is more this side of the Atlantic with an remnants of topsoil and lovingly León, conjuring one of European Malvasía: 1997, 1956 and two Diego, while reds include Tinta recent. Clinging onto ash black incurable root-withering disease. planted vines capable of finding winemaking’s most evocative barricas (barrels) dating from 1881. Conejera and Listán Negro, with soils, atop hillsides windswept by “The Phylloxera louse induces the water and converting it into images. Bodega La Geria is The older two can occasionally be Muscatel reserved for sweet Canary. trade winds on these rocky volcanic vine to reject its own roots and, treasured grapes. To avoid silting up strategically situated in La Geria sampled at trade fairs. The ‘97 was Nitrogen excludes oxygen and the specks in the vastness of the hence, effectively commit suicide,” the resulting cones, little stone nature reserve and receives 300,000 dark orange and had a solera’s latest 14,000-liter Ganymede Atlantic Ocean, you find vines explained wine expert Hugh windbreaks were built on each vine’s visitors annually, each being offered oxidative style, mingling traces of stainless steel tanks, with CO2 that maintain a living link with Johnson. To overcome this blight, windward (northeastern) side. The wine to taste. Winemaker Alejandro wood with huge orange marmalade bypass valves to break the musts’ an ancient viticulture that growers have had to graft vines onto practice is known as digging hoyos Besay makes refreshing Manto aromas surrounded by hints of caps, are used for fermentation. 38 39 05 AF_EL VINO ISLAS II_1.qxd 5/8/10 09:12 Página 38 W CANARY ISLANDS I N E S TEXT HAROLD HECKLE/©ICEX PHOTOS EFRAÍN PINTOS/©ICEX The grapevines of Spain’s Canary Alexander the Great (356-323 BC) Phylloxera-resistant non-Vitis (holes) and protecting them with 2009, “Malvasía Volcánica”, which honey. Its lingering finish was Islands are rare, precious survivors would have recognized. vinifera American roots, inevitably abrigos (overcoats). “The prevailing offers herbal hints and a clean reminiscent of bright summer fruit. from an ecological disaster that No one could have predicted that altering aromas and flavors, winds (vientos alisios) come from finish. He also makes rosé (rosado) Solera 1881 was almost forever changed the nature of Spain’s discovery of America would except here in the Canary Islands, the northeast,” said Javier from Listán Negro. mahogany dark with aromas of global winemaking. Adding to the unleash devastation on the historic which have remained miraculously Betancourt of the DO Lanzarote Bodega El Grifo, DO Lanzarote, is figs and vibrant orange peel. Its drama, all around the beautiful vineyards of the Old World. Yet, the free of infection. Regulatory Council. one of the ten oldest wineries in huge palate was amazingly full of islands you see evidence of a arrival of a louse, an unwanted Bodega Los Bermejos, DO Spain. Within its vineyards you find life, with a luxurious mystery that violent, volcanic past. This story American import if ever there was Lanzarote, Lanzarote, was founded in 2001 Muscatel vines so old they could only age confers. begins 20 million years ago when a one, did exactly that. It caused and makes five styles, i.e. “20% of have been planted just after the last Bodegas Stratvs, DO Lanzarote, is massive telluric collision between irreparable damage to Europe’s vines set in black the island’s production,” said eruption. Winemaker Tomás Mesa one of the flagship wineries of the the Africa and Eurasia continental (at that time most of the world’s) obsidian manager Ana de León. Their 20 ha Guanche began working here in Canary Islands. Winemaker Alberto plates caused a tear in the earth’s wine industry. The accidental (49 acres) of organically cultivated 2007, when he joined 15 full-time González Plasencia (born on nearby mantle. The tectonic pile-up caused introduction in 1860 of a North In 1730, Lanzarote was again vines are supplemented with 250 ha staff, a number that rises to 38 La Gomera) vinifies 350,000 liters, explosions of lava to erupt through American bug wrecked for all time a convulsed by eruptions that spewed (618 acres) owned by 200 small during harvest. “We are able to “of which 20% is our production.” the Atlantic Ocean and billions viticulture that had taken thousands continuously for six years. A quarter growers. “The Diego (white) variety cultivate and maintain our old, Infinite care is taken, with of tons of magma to cool, forming of years to perfect. of the island was coated in ash and is generating interest,” she said. historic varieties without relying on manually-selected grapes kept in islands like scar tissue on the From the moment Phylloxera lava.
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