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Edición en español 28 Fundación 28 mayo para la 2018 Cultura del Vino Vino del

Cultura

2018

para la may

28 Fundación English version English

Terruños28_PORTADA_OK.indd 1 28/5/18 12:25 2

Terruños.

Número 28 mayo 2018. Edita with collaboration in FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO Atenas, 2 - 1ºF

28224 Pozuelo de Alarcón (Madrid) e-mail: [email protected] Institute. the of opinion the nor trustees, its of nor Foundation the of opinion the reﬂect necessarily not do authors the of opinions The www.culturadelvino.org

Presidente

Guillermo de Aranzabal Circus Magic

Design and Layout and Design Graphic

Vicepresidente Coronado Alberto

Pablo Álvarez illustration Cover

Gerente Vino. del Cultura la para Fundación Wine, of Masters of Institute Valdenebro, Abel Shutterstock,

Rafael del Rey Salgado Pictures

Redacción y coordinación MW Skilton Jane MW, Robinson Jancis MW, Robertson Norrel MW, Mora Fernando MW, Meiburg Debra MW,

Rafael del Rey, María Gasca, Alberto Coronado (Magic Circus), Sarah Jane Evans MW, Sarah Kirkpatrick Mire Le David MW, Lazarakis Konstantinos MW, Kubach Andreas MW, Holland Sonal MW, Hemming Richard MW, Frost Doug MW, Forer David

Guillermo de Aranzabal, Jane Masters MW, Ed Adams MW, Pedro Ballesteros MW, Bree Boskov MW, Lynne Coyle MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW, MW, Evans Jane Sarah MW, Coyle Lynne MW, Boskov Bree MW, Ballesteros Pedro MW, Adams Ed MW, Masters Jane Aranzabal, de Guillermo Colaboran en este número issue this In

Guillermo de Aranzabal, Jane Masters MW, Ed Adams MW, Pedro Ballesteros MW, Bree Boskov MW, Lynne Coyle MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW,

David Forer MW, Doug Frost MW, Richard Hemming MW, Sonal Holland MW, Andreas Kubach MW, Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, David Le Mire Kirkpatrick Sarah MW, Evans Jane Sarah Circus), (Magic Coronado Alberto Gasca, María Rey, del Rafael

MW, Debra Meiburg MW, Fernando Mora MW, Norrel Robertson MW, Jancis Robinson MW, Jane Skilton MW coordination and Writing

Imágenes Salgado Rey del Rafael

Shutterstock, Abel Valdenebro, Institute of Masters of Wine, Fundación para la Cultura del Vino. manager General

Ilustración de portada Álvarez Pablo

Alberto Coronado president Vice

Diseño y maquetación Aranzabal de Guillermo

Magic Circus President

www.culturadelvino.org

Las opiniones de los autores no reﬂejan necesariamente la opinión de la Fundación, ni de sus patronos, ni la del Instituto [email protected] e-mail:

28224 Pozuelo de Alarcón (Madrid) (Madrid) Alarcón de Pozuelo 28224

Atenas, 2 - 1ºF - 2 Atenas,

FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO DEL CULTURA LA PARA FUNDACIÓN

con la colaboración de Edit

Issue 28 may 2018. may 28 Issue Terruños.

Terruños28_PORTADA_OK.indd 2 28/5/18 12:25 Spanish WinesinGreece Konstantinos LazarakisMW Andreas KubachMW will determinethesuccessofourwines Personality intheglass–moresothanpromotion - Sonal HollandMW The FutureforSpanishWinesinIndia Richard HemmingMW Finding themeaningofSpanishwine Doug FrostMW Bobal andMonastrell:theflavoursofMediterranean Spain David ForerMW Discovering thewinesofCataluña Sarah JaneEvansMW Rioja celebratesitscomingofage Lynne CoyleMW Introducing theIMWMasterclassinHaro Bree BoskovMW The SpanishacquisitionintheUSmarket Pedro BallesterosMW Completing thewinemapofSpain:newautochthonouswines Ed AdamsMW Building awinebrandinSpain The InstituteofMastersWine Fundación paralaCulturadelVino Jane MastersMW Welcome Guillermo deAranzabal Welcome

40 36 34 32 30 28 24 22 20 18 16 13 7 9 5 SUMMARY 3 NÚMERO 28_mayo_2018 SUMMARY

Tempranillo in Australia 42 David Le Mire MW

Exploring Hong Kong’s Contemporary Wine Market 44 Debra Meiburg MW Classification of Vineyards in Spain – a key for the future 46 Fernando Mora MW Rediscovering Spain’s glorious Garnachas, and its old vine heritage 48 Norrel Robertson MW The world of Spanish wines 52 Jancis Robinson MW Albariño in New Zealand 54 Jane Skilton MW XIII Technical Meeting. Oxygen management and processing 56 and wine ageing in alternative containers

The Taste of Greatness: Sassicaia-Solaia 58

Update from The Fundación 63

4 WELCOME Welcome Guillermo de Aranzabal

Spain is, and has always been, one of the largest wine producing countries in the World and the one with the biggest surface dedicated to growing vines. Quantity and value, with many excellent exceptions, have been the words to define Spanish wines outside our borders.

During the last 20-30 years, the wine revolution in Spain has, like a tsunami, covered the whole country. The innovations in Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Cava, Sherry, and so on were per- haps logical and predictable, but the tsunami has also changed the face of all other regions: Rías Baixas, Rueda, Toro, Somontano, Navarra, Cataluña, Levante and more. It’s difficult to find another place in the world where similar in- vestments have been made, where so many enthusiastic young winemakers have been born or where so many traditional wineries have re-invented themselves.

This revolution has taken place both in the wineries and in the vineyards. The investment made by wineries in technology, new facilities, R&D… has been fundamental. We now have state-of-the-art technology: optical sorting machines, small vats with temperature and pump over automatic control, sophisticated NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

5 WELCOME

analysing machines, bottling lines that look like Spanish wines are arguably among the best Guillermo de Aranzabal laboratories, etc. This is the impressive science wines in the World. And I’m not talking just is President of the Fundación behind the wine, enough to make good wines. about value wines, or great price/quality ra- para la Cultura del Vino, and But we also need the art, necessary to make tios. I’m talking about being in the same league Chairman of La Rioja Alta S.A. great wines. And it came with a new genera- as the top Bordeaux, Burgundy, California or tion of winemakers, with new philosophies in Italian wines. We just need to show you our traditional wineries, with a deep dedication to wines, to show you our wineries, to show you each vineyard. Spanish wineries now spend a our people. lot of resources, and I’m talking both about money and love, in better knowing our varie- This Symposium is our great opportunity to ties, our plots, our vineyards, our locations. show you our wines and your great opportunity to discover the Spanish wine revolution. And now it’s the time to show to the wine- Let’s enjoy them together!! world all we have done. The time to place Spa- nish wines where they should be in international markets, restaurants and best-wine lists. The MW Symposium, coming to Spain for the very first time, is our great opportunity. We’re proud of our achievements and eager to show our wines to the world. Who else better than the MWs, truly wine experts, leaders and opinion formers? Their influence covers all aspect of the wine business: from the press and buyers, to sellers, authors, educators, restaurant owners and sommeliers.

Spain can celebrate its own MWs. Pedro Ba- llesteros and Fernando Mora are joined by others who have adopted Spain and live and work here for Spanish wines at least like the best locals. They are Andreas Kubach, Norrel Robertson and David Forer. And more students are working hard to pass the exams and increase the number of “our” MWs. At the Fundación para la Cultura del Vino we are very proud that the annual Masterclass with the IMW in Haro is having such success in recruiting potential students to the Study Programme (see Lynne Coyle’s article in the following pages). 6 EDITORIALWELCOME

Welcome Jane Masters MW

As Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine, it is my pleasure to write the introduction to this issue Terruños. The aim of the Institute of Masters of Wine is to promote excellence, interaction and learning across the global wine community, a mission closely aligned to the Fundación para la Cultura del Vino, the sponsors of our 2018 symposium.

This magazine is published to celebrate the ninth International Masters of Wine Sympo- sium - Living Wine – in Logroño, in the heart of the Rioja region of Spain. Held every four years, our symposia attract 450+ leading wine professionals from around the world to share thoughts and experiences and discuss issues important for the successful future of our international trade. Previous symposia have been held in Perth, Vienna, Napa, Bordeaux NUMBER 28_may_2018NÚMERO 28_mayo_2018 NUMBER

7 WELCOME

and Florence. The symposium tackles the to- involved in producing and promoting Spanish Jane Masters (MW 1997) pics of today and tomorrow on a global scale, wines. It is timely to read directly from some is Chairman of the IMW. She but also gives participants the chance to de- of these Masters of Wine their professional is an independent wine con- velop their knowledge of the host region, its insights into what’s happening in Spain and its sultant with over 30 years producers and wines. The Living Wine sym- export markets. of experience and clients in posium programme has sessions and dinners Spain and around the world. dedicated to Spanish wines, with a final tasting Finally, I would like to thank all of those involved She studied winemaking at the proving that Spain is at the top of the wine in organising and participating in the Sympo- Institute of Oenology in Bor- world’s quality pyramid. Spanish winemakers sium - speakers, Masters of Wine, Supporters deaux, and has an MBA from will be sharing the wines of which they are and all of our international participants - it is the London Business School. most proud to an international audience. this community that makes the event so in- Her work in UK retail included teresting and very special. I look forward to running the Wine & Drinks ca- Of the 370 Masters of Wine based in 28 cou- meeting many of you there! tegory for Marks & Spencer. ntries around the world, many are directly

8 FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO

The Foundation for the Culture of Wine, FCV, (Fundación para la Cultura del Vino) is a private entity dedicated to cultural outreach comprising public and private institutions that has been active for more than twenty years. It acts as a means of communication and education on the subject of the culture of wine. Providing a connecting link between consumers and the sector, it also contributes to supporting fine Spanish wine both at home and abroad. This initiative, unique in its field, seeks to raise awareness in the broadest terms regarding universal wine culture, as befits the position wine has gained in society. Fundación para la Cultura del Vino

The FVC’s highest governing body consists of in order to gain greater knowledge of the the Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries, Food, techniques of wine-growing and processing and the Environment of Spain, together with and of the methods of tasting that best en- the wineries of La Rioja Alta, S.A., Vega Sicilia, sure the enjoyment of wine, Marqués de Riscal, Muga and Terras Gauda. The Ministry and the wineries, scrupulously 2. To encourage responsible consumption respectful of the fine wines’ origins, hold a of wine for the sake of enjoying it; wine’s common viewpoint: fine wines are a distinc- health-related nutritional qualities and va- tive cultural reality and an age-old tradition. lues, together with its aroma and flavor will These bodies decided to pool their efforts to surely satisfy on every level, including the launch a project that would contribute added visual one, and val-ue to the fine wines sector while steering its efforts to deliver knowledge to society. 3. To raise awareness regarding wine and improve the flow of related information The FCV’s main objectives are the following: aimed at making the culture of wine a lively and open one. 1. To convey the culture of wine as part of our heritage, examining its history in depth NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

9 FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO

In order to achieve these objectives the FCV focus on issues involving winegrowing or pursues a substantial number of activities, no- winemaking in general; they are always of a tably the following: very high standard; and they bring together academic and laboratory insight and ap- • Tasting great wines: vertical tasting ses- proaches with a business outlook. sions of some of the world’s leading wineries for a necessarily reduced audience in • Terruños Newsletter: a complimentary the presence of owners and winemakers annual publication that focuses on specific from the invited cellars. The purpose is issues of interest in the wine sector, both to make known to the Spanish public the technical and cultural, and includes articles great wines produced worldwide. Some of from leading wine experts. Recent issues the tasting sessions held over the last few have featured articles on wine and art, wine years have included wines from Château tourism, and the relation between wine, nu- Cos d’Estournel, La Tâche, Château Latour, trition, cuisine, and health. Château Petrus, Château d’Yquem, Jerez, Vega Sicilia, Laurent Perrier, great Rioja vin- • Tasting sessions in Spain: sessions that tages, and Sassicaia and Solaia from Italy. focus on the impact of wine in our economy and setting, and study how wine affects our • Technical meetings: sessions devoted to society and tourism. They are addressed to scientific dissemination addressed to pro- institutions such as the Diplomatic School fessionals in the sector. Traditionally they and the Ministry of Trade, among others.

10 FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO 28_may_2018 ER B M NU

11 FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO

Apart from these recurring programs, the FCV FCV-member wineries. Information on Club also carries out other activities that are of spe- advantages and on how to become a mem- cific interest, in accordance with the FCV’s ber is available at: www.culturadelvino.org. objectives. To this end the FCV has recently organized or promoted, among others, the fo- Since 1983 the FCV has a special relationship llowing: with the Institute of Masters of Wine, whose 370 members possibly make up the most • A photography competition: The Roma- important international organization in our nesque Period and Wine sector, given their leading presence at all le- • A course held in the Royal Site of San Lo- vels: Chief Purchasing Officers, critics, impor- renzo del Escorial: The Landscapes of Vine- ters, advisors, sommeliers, etc. Together with yards and the Culture of Wine the IMW, we organize annual master classes in • A book on wine in the Prado Museum Haro, we have developed a scholarship pro- • A theme-based walk-through on wine at gram, and we arrange tasting sessions with stu- the Thyssen Museum permanent collection dents participating in the program. The FCV is • Development of “Vino Juego”, a mobile the main sponsor and driving force of the IX app on the world of wine. World Symposium of the Institute Masters of Wine in 2018. It is our hope that the presence In 2017 the FCV launched its “Club de of IMW members in our cellars and vineyards Amigos” (Friends of Fundación para la Cul- will help position Spanish wines where they tura del Vino) with the purpose of involving belong within the international market in wine enthusiasts and wine culture lovers in terms of quality and deserved recognition. activities which are organized by the FCV and

COMPARTIENDO TRADICIÓN, GENERANDO CONOCIMIENTO

12 THE INSTITUTE OF MASTERS OF WINE

Promoting excellence, interaction and learning across all sectors of the global wine community.

The Institute of Masters of Wine

The Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) is siness owners, consultants, academics, and a professional body with an unsurpassed in- wine educators. Members are welcomed to ternational reputation. Our members – the the membership at an awards ceremony in Masters of Wine (MWs) – hold the most res- London each year. The ceremony celebrates pected title in the world of wine. MWs have the induction of the new MWs to the IMW proved their understanding of all aspects of and recognises individual excellence in all as- wine by passing the Master of Wine (MW) pects of the MW examination (pictured the examination, recognised worldwide for its ri- 2017 vintage). gour and high standards. Becoming a Master of Wine means entry into In addition to passing the examination, MWs the world’s best wine community: one that are required to sign the code of conduct be- brings deeply rewarding personal and profes- fore they are entitled to use the initials MW. sional opportunities, and lifetime friendships The code of conduct requires MWs to act between members. To become a Master of with honesty and integrity, and use every op- Wine, a candidate must pass the Institute’s portunity to share their understanding of wine study programme – there are currently over with others. 350 students from 40 countries in the MW study programme. There are Masters of Wine today, working in 28 countries. The membership encompasses After submitting a successful application to winemakers, buyers, journalists, shippers, bu- the study programme there are three stages; NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

13 THE INSTITUTE OF MASTERS OF WINE

“Becoming an MW is just the starting point of a uniquely privileged experience, being a trusted fellow of many of the most respected and interesting wine personalities in the world. The feeling of belonging to that society is great.”

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW

the stage 1 assessment and the three parts propose wine related topics from any area of of the MW examination – the stage 2 theory the sciences, arts, humanities, social sciences or and practical examinations, and the stage 3 re- any other discipline. search paper. The theory examination is five, three-hour question papers on viticulture, vini- The study programme is self-directed. The fication and pre-bottling procedures, the hand- IMW aims to assist with preparation for the ling of wine, the business of wine, and con- MW assessments and examinations but it is temporary issues. The practical examination is the student who ensures that they are fully three, 12-wine blind tastings, each lasting two prepared in all aspects of the examination. and a quarter hours, in which wines must be However, the journey to becoming a Master assessed for variety, origin, winemaking, quality of Wine is not a lonely one. and style. The final stage is the research paper, an individual piece of work of between 6,000 Students are assigned an MW mentor to help and 10,000 words in length. Candidates may them along the way and there are plenty of

14 THE INSTITUTE OF MASTERS OF WINE

“It is only years later that I fully understood what it meant to be a Master of Wine. It is a title that forces respect but it also obliges us to continuingly learn about wine and keep high work ethics.”

Olivier Humbrecht MW opportunities to meet other students at study Applications for the study programme open programme seminars and course days, as well in June each year and include a practical and as MWs and other industry leaders. theory assignment. Applicants must hold a wine qualification, at least WSET Diploma in For prospective students who are thinking level or equivalent. For example, a Bachelors’ about applying, the IMW runs outreach ac- or Masters’ degree in wine – oenology, viticul- tivities around the world to introduce the ture, wine business – or an appropriately high MW study programme and what it takes to level sommelier certificate. They also need a become a Master of Wine. Hour long infor- minimum of three years’ professional work ex- mation sessions give an overview of the study perience in the global wine community, plus a programme and its requirements, and two-day reference from an MW or senior wine trade introductory weekends focus on MW-led tas- professional. tings and theory sessions, and the opportunity to sit a mock examination. www.mastersofwine.org NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

15 BUILDING A WINE BRAND IN SPAIN Building a wine brand in Spain

Ed Adams MW

I’ve known South African winemaker Bruce Jack for many years. Both of us share a great enthusiasm for Spanish culture and Spain’s many wonderful landscapes and vineyards, and indeed wines. Back in 2006 we decided to do a wine project together, starting with our friends at Bodegas Juan Gil in Jumilla who I had known for some years already, having worked with them when at Shropshire based Western Wines.

The La Báscula project was born. We started In previous vintages Bruce has got involved in with a couple of Monastrell based wines from making the wines but these days it’s more a Jumilla and have then, over the years, added case of doing our own bespoke blends with Rioja (what Spanish range is complete without each winemaker post vintage. that?), Terra Alta, Rueda, Rías Baixas and a mind numbingly good Moscatel from Alicante pro- Our newest project in Cataluña is a joint ven- vince. ture to produce a super-premium red. This new project pretty much sums up our philo- In fact, this is being written in a bar in Rioja sophy with the whole Báscula range. We work with a TV blaring out loud, as we have just fi- with predominantly indigenous varieties often nished another tour around Spain. Each year in lesser known regions like Terra Alta and, we come here in January to put our Báscula most importantly, in very close co-operation blends together with each of the producers. with the producer.

16 BUILDING A WINE BRAND IN SPAIN

Last year we added our Atlantic Way Albariño fermentation. Our wine has a zing, fruit and Ed Adams MW joined the from Rías Baixas to the Báscula range. This freshness that many Albariños lack and ma- wine trade in 1983 after dab- comes from Pazo de Cilleiro only 4 kilometres nages to do all this without tasting like battery bling with radio journalism in from the sea, and just next door to the At- acid, a nifty achievement. his home city of Bristol, England. lantic camino to Santiago. Although Rías Baixas Starting off working for an old these days can hardly be described as a lesser With the whirlwind tour now over, it’s time Bristol wine firm, Howells, he known region, it took us some years to find to take a cleansing ale or two and discuss the eventually moved to the bright a wine with the right price-quality ratio. Most week’s progress. As I always say to Bruce, the lights of London where he found unusually for an Albariño from the Salnés va- best is yet to come… his passion for Spanish wine and lley our wine does not undergo any malolactic all things Spanish rekindled by Vinos de España. Adams then spent seven years as a buyer for the Co-op in Manchester after which he became QC and purchasing director for Wes- tern Wines for 12 years until 2006. Since then he has been working on the Báscula Spanish wine project with South African winemaker partner Bruce Jack, where they are working with some of Spain´s top producers. NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

17 COMPLETING THE WINE MAP OF SPAIN: THE NEW AUTOCHTHONOUS WINES Completing the wine map of Spain: the new autochthonous wines Pedro Ballesteros MW

Spain is one the most visited countries in the world and yet few people are aware of Spain’s complex nature and geography. The country is associated to sunny beaches and lively cities. But, from a geographical point of view, Spain’s most relevant feature is its many mountains. In Europe, only Switzerland is more mountainous than Spain.

The mountains result in many different climates varieties, original winemaking traditions, remote and myriad soils and expositions, giving a poten- climates, were all but forgotten. tial for vine diversity that is difficult to match in other countries. However, until recently, Spain It was only well after the entry in the European was not distinguished by the diversity of its wines. Union that Spain got the necessary communi- The reasons for that have nothing to do with cation and education infrastructures, together geography, not even with wine, but with politics. with an easier access to foreign markets with The country was lagging behind its neighbours, high purchasing power. Millennial Spaniards got with little value in its domestic wine market, large the self-confidence and technical skills to work regions badly connected to trade routes and in their own distinctive grapes and wines. Some only a few companies exporting prestige wines. people consider the results, an amazing and ever For many years, the policy consisted in trying growing number of wines with distinctive perso- to imitate others (mostly the prestigious Rioja nality at great quality levels, as surprising. Others and the benchmark Bordeaux) rather than ex- realise that what’s going on is the decryption of pressing its best intrinsic values. Autochthonous the many Spanish landscapes in many more diffe-

18 the Basque country, the amazing non-fortified non-fortified amazing the country, Basque the delicate Atlantic reds from Galicia, and Asturias The fine wine loversofwill tomorrow enjoy the deSalamanca… Axarquía ofMalagaorSierra from the remote regions of del Duero,Arribes Txakoli, the complex Ribeiro blends or the wines top qualitysingle-vineyard Cava, thereinvented vered autochthonousCatalonian varieties, the winesfromtheBalearic,original theredisco- great varieties, the flagship distinctive with island islands,than ever: winesfromtheCanary each spots aremorenumerous Now thenewbright at discovery Valencia andUtiel-Requena. show of roundness at Jumilla and the Bobal re- feast from and Gredos,Aragón the Monastrell plexity andelegance; thencametheGarnacha were gettingintonewlevels ofcom- and Sherry Bierzo or Toro, whiletheclassicregionsofRioja from then there were the surprises Alicante, Priorat, RíasBaixas, del Duero; Ruedaand Ribera other. First, therewere thenow classicregionsof and unexpected than the one more surprising Like ahugetide, thenewwinescomeinwaves, thatisSpainintheworld’s winescene. country rent wines, ofthemountainous theappearance rising. Be prepared for the next wave, the tide is still rosé wineswithlongageing… ageing for Cava, long-term cante, very complex Jerez, and Montilla at flor at styles rancio the Ali- things that until recently were magic, such as the those to understand Some Spaniardsstrive clusters. industrial develop to research scientific all over the world, and are now the subject of arehighly valuedby(amphoras) topproducers tinajas quality top Spanish irrigation. efficient in biodynamic vineyards, and itisaleadingcountry infirst country the world in terms of organic and throughout Spain.ments are undertaken It is the - winemaking techniquesandviticultureexperi totheirwines.personality innovativeA myriad that provides more authenticity and everything are willing totry and winemakers vine growers self-confident young varieties. Those grape and isnotjusttheresultofterroirs Spanish diversity of Montanchez.takable wildcharacter atBetanzos orLiébanaandtheunmis- crispiness the continentaleleganceof wines,Arlanza the regions, Montilla and Sherry the from wines flor COMPLETING THE WINE MAPOFSPAIN: at Centre and an expert Culinary committee of theBasque pert the Tasters’ governing the CouncilofIMW, the tion andeducation. Heison 2010) isactive inwinepromo- Pedro Ballesteros (MW Symposium. Organising Committeeofthe de THE NEW the Vino, Gran OIV.

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19 NUMBER 28_may_2018 COMPLETINGTHE SPANISH THEACQUISITION WINE MAP IN OF THE SPAIN US MARKET The Spanish acquisition in the US market

Bree Boskov MW

With more and more Americans traveling to Spain in recent years, there has been increased interest and acceptance of Spanish cuisine and regional wines here in the US, according to importers.

For many years, there was little general Spain isn’t just Rioja, cheap reds or Sherry, knowledge about Spanish wines, apart from although these regions are seeing a rejuve- Rioja, or the alternative was inexpensive im- nated interest around non-traditional produ- ports. Rioja is well known and highly regarded cers of these regions. What’s getting the trade among the trade but its wines are seen as a excited are the stories of rediscovery. These little like Bordeaux in their presentation and are represented by producers like Telmo Ro- placement. So what infiltrated the heartland dríguez and Olivier Rivière who are both ex- of the US was either blue-chip premium wine ploring farming for environmental health and or entry level, and stylistically the latter could quality through biodynamics and also base have been a red wine from any warm country. their cuvées around terroir and often name Both are dependable and ticked the boxes the villages in which the grapes grow. of price, presentation and press but did little to tell the full regional story of Spanish wine US importers are also embracing Spain’s diversity. regional identity. Wines from indigenous varieties and imports from Galicia, Montsant Now is an exciting time in the US for Spa- and the Islands are all on the rise in specialist nish wine. There’s a growing recognition that portfolios. The wines that are being crafted

20 nacha blanca. These winesappealtoyounger billo, Listanblanco, Malvasía, Xarel.lo andGar for reds,and Carinena and whitesfrom Al- like Mencía,varieties Garnacha, Morenillo viving abandoned vineyards with indigenous nate, and4Monos, withtheirfocus onre- such as Commando G,of producers Envi- made in concrete vats or amphora. The wines oak,king andagedwithlittleorneutral or winema- and site through traditional variety offrom ancient vines that show transparency those wines made from indigenous varieties and independent retail arein the on-trade the country. for manyThe mostintriguing favour onUSshoresand onwinelistsacross finding all Duero,are del Ribera and Priorat growing regionslikequo intraditional Rioja, eyes, whoarewillingtochallengethestatus by younger with fresh grower producers - retail trade. andindependenthighly engagedon-trade andprovides accesstothemajormarkets out of the ashes of these takeovers rising ters footprint, andimpor thesmallerwholesalers classic regional wines of Spain have a national ensuresthe consolidation acrossthecountry offerings.namic anddiverse While distributor US isnothinglessthanexcitingwithitsdy- The futureacceptanceofSpanishwineinthe vineyard inthewineandnotcellar. and want to taste thechase new experiences throughtheirwinedrinking.on journey They want to experiment,yers want to be taken parency andauthenticityinwine. These bu- - image ofclassicwinesandwhovaluetrans whodon’thave apreconceivedwine drinkers THE SPANISH ACQUISITION IN THE USMARKET - wine writer. at Diploma, judgesandpresents Wine educator Oregon Wine Board, isan Oregon. Sheconsultstothe Crush Advisors andlives in is thefounder ofConstant Bree Boskov MW TEXSOM Academy with and is a Napa and freelance WSET Valley

21 NUMBER 28_may_2018 INTRODUCING THE IMW MASTERCLASS IN HARO Introducing the IMW Masterclass in Haro

Lynne Coyle MW

The IMW runs two-day Masterclasses round the world to introduce potential students to the requirements of the Study Programme. The Haro Masterclass held in Spring every year is organised in co-operation with La Fundación para la Cultura del Vino (FCV). The Fundación’s members – The Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries, Food and Environment, La Rioja Alta SA, Herederos del Marqués de Riscal, Muga, Terras Gauda and Vega Sicilia - plus the team from the FCV are welcoming hosts. A highlight of the Masterclass is the tasting where the winemakers from these leading estates bring a selection of wines and introduce them to the students.

The seminar sessions take place at Muga which offer the attendees the opportunity to where their conference and tasting facilities explore MW style tastings. boast stunning views and natural light. This relaxed, calm environment is very conducive to The Masterclass includes sessions on grape learning for even the most nervous student. varieties and their origin, essay writing tech- The Masterclass programme is presented by niques, wine making and insights into the as- up to seven international MWs, starting with sessment of style, quality and the commercial an overview of The Institute and the Study positioning of wine from an MW perspec- Programme. There are then a series of MW- tive. The first evening students and MWs are led in-depth practical and theoretical sessions welcomed to a party at Beronia, courtesy of

22 INTRODUCING THE IMW MASTERCLASS IN HARO

IMW Supporter González Byass. Students can “The Masterclass in Rioja demystified a lot of Lynne Coyle (MW 2015) is relax after the intense day, taste through the questions I had about the MW Programme. I Wine Director for O´Briens Beronia wines with the winemaking team, and left feeling informed and enthused about the Wine. Based in Dublin, she has treat themselves to dleightful tapas from Venta Programme which offers a platform to take extensive retail wine and on- Moncalvillo. my wine knowledge to a different level. There trade experience in the UK are some dedicated MWs who believe in gi- and Ireland. She also teaches, Day Two commences with a wine tasting, ving back by supporting students in their stu- judges in wine competitions enabling students to practice what they have dies. It was a fun programme with local winery and writes about wine. learned the day before. An essay planning and visits, tastings with winemakers and an oppor- critical thinking session offers the chance for tunity to meet students and MWs from diffe- group work. One of the discoveries that poten- rent parts of the world.” tial students make is the value of networking. The Haro Masterclass has been led by Pedro In the afternoon, there is an opportunity for Ballesteros MW, and Olivier Chapman, the the attendees to undertake a practice version IMW Head of the Study Programme and De- of the IMW entrance examinations. This is the velopment. MWs who have taken part include ideal opportunity for the group to put into Ed Adams MW, Barbara Boyle MW, Sarah Jane practise the tips and learnings from the mas- Evans MW, Adreas Kubach MW, Norrel Ro- terclasses. The following feedback session gives bertson MW, Lenka Sedláčková MW and An- insight into the exam questions and offers the nette Scarfe MW, attendees the opportunity to ask questions and discuss approaches and techniques.

On both days, the team at Muga host generous lunches, introducing students who have never visited Rioja to the pleasure of Riojan hospita- lity and home cooking. These are always very lively events, as the students get to know each other and the MWs and to network, making connections that will be useful for their future studies and their business.

The Haro programme aims to share the ethos of the IMW, and an understanding of the Study Programme in an educational but relaxed and enjoyable setting. In the words of Bernice Cheng, who attended Haro and is now a Stage One student on the Programme: NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

23 RIOJA CELEBRATES ITS COMING OF AGE Rioja celebrates its coming of age

Sarah Jane Evans MW

The modern history of Rioja wine can be said to start in the 1850s, with the wines of the Marqueses de Riscal and Murrieta. So how can I suggest that Rioja is only coming of age now, in 2018?

Very easily. The fact is that for too long the specialist cellars in Rioja, San Sebastián, Madrid, international image of Rioja, Spain’s most fa- Gerona and beyond and 1964 and 1970 will mous wine region, has been as a producer of be on the lists. Many sommeliers will be able venerable wines, pale, lightly flavoured reds, to take you back further. As part of this cele- basking in warm, vanilla oak. Yet Rioja has gone bration of Rioja’s greatness, Marqués de Riscal through a period of exceptional change in not so long ago hosted a vertical tasting over 2 recent years. Thus 2018 and the IMW Sym- days going back to 1862 with only 11 vintages posium is an ideal moment to take stock and missing. (The highlights were 1874 and 1897 celebrate the region’s renewed energy and along with the 1945.) delightful complexity. Rioja has terroir but has never really talked This is not a matter of new wines for a new about it. The straightforward classification into generation of drinkers. Riojans are sharing Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja masked their history too. One of the pleasures for a kaleidoscope of differences. Viticultors knew wine lovers is that it’s still possible to enjoy those differences but never felt the need to use great old vintages. Eat out in restaurants with it in marketing as others in the fine wine world

24 fused the market attheoutset.fused themarket Was thisalso oak, French con- new brand of overlay firm a cades back, wine, amoreconcentrated with ofthe arrival Vino de Autor, acoupleofde- – thennoonedoesitbetterthanRioja. The an elegant wine, long-aged in oak American reality issomuch more interesting. Ifyou want Rioja. of identification the Today’sto clue the tion. ofstudentsoakhasbeen Forgenerations regula- oak than the 225 litres of the Reserva shapes, andvatsmadeinlarger, lessintrusive well as plenty of concrete in different sizes and pots).(clay Rioja,You in too, those find as can There’s afashionfor winesmadeintinajas make thecasefor both. age, Riojarecognisesthatithasboth, andcan quality withitsconsumerappeal. Comingof whichhasensuredtheconsistencyof pertise makes outstandingwines. It’s thatblending ex- andvarieties region whereablend of terroirs long-recognised single vineyards. But it’s also a purest expressionofawine. Riojahasthose become globally recognisedasperhapsthe aspect, winemaking. Singlevineyard wineshave spelling outtheirdifferences insoil, altitude, did. theinformation, In2018theyaresharing Rioja’s comingofage. It’s ofthebuzz theperfectaround descriptor and partying. They callthemselves Rioja ‘n’ Roll. - for marketing producer groupcollaborates a small-scale, hands-onapproach. Onesuch different DOs; arelocalstart-ups,with others in ofbrands who have alreadybuilt aportfolio established names. Some are small producers into Rioja, outanichebetween the carving coming the factthat there is anewgeneration and old varieties. There’s in encouragement dians oftheoldways, revivingoldvineyards might call historian-producers, whoareguar Rioja isalsoblessed with agroupofwhatone Blancas.fine MalvasíasandGarnacha exceptional whitesandtherearesomevery tream. showsViura’s itcanmake recuperation arebecomingmains- Maturana but forgotten doldrums, whileGraciano, Mazueloandtheall positionafterdecadesinthe to adeserved of varieties, In terms has returned Garnacha intensity,thrilling andareaconfidentcategory. into themselves, the Vinos de Autor canhave a Rioja? Butnow, asthosewineshave relaxed - RIOJA CELEBRAT Awards, Decanter World Wine the of Sarah wine 2006) isanaward-winning (MW Evans Jane Sarah Committee oftheSymposium. Chairman oftheOrganising of theIMW2014-2016andis de Vino. She was Chairman Gran The Wines writer. Orden Jane

and a of

Her is Northern ES ITSCOMINGOF AGE member de latest co-Chairman Caballeros book of Spain. the is

25 NUMBER 28_may_2018 EL RIOJA CELEBRA SU MAYORÍA DE EDAD

Giles Cooke MW, Edinburgh The ﬁrst wine that made a real impression on me was Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Rosado Reserva. It was a deep onion skin colour, profoundly non fruity, reasonably high in alcohol and wonderfully textural and moreish. I can still taste it 20 years on. I had just joined the wine business and was working for Majestic - the wines that made an impression then have stuck with me for a long time. To this day I have a yearning to produce a wine in that style.

Fongyee Walker MW, Beijing The ﬁrst Spanish wine I remember was Viña Esmeralda. I was very fond of it when I was a student: fresh, light, very pretty, and great value. Perfect!

Robin Kick MW, Lugano For sure the most memorable was Torres Gran Coronas Black Label Gran Reserva 1978 (I still own a bottle!). I had never had a Cabernet Sauvignon like it. It was so elegant and balanced but had sweeter fruit than most of the Bordeaux I had had.

26 Lenka Sedlácková MW, London My first job in the wine trade was at London’s Theatre of Wine and we sold the López de Heredia wines there. I asked to take my first salary in wine and the first wine I picked off the shelf was Bosconia.

Robin Kick MW, Lugano The ﬁrst white wine I remember was from Txomin Etxaniz. At the time I never even knew that area of the Basque Country produced wine (it was brought to a tasting by a friend). I loved its lightness and mineral spritz. Such a fun, delicious wine with low alcohol.

Cathy van Zyl MW, Somerset West, South Africa Muga Reserva 1986. When I tasted it, it was 10 years old; I was charmed by its honesty, humility, typicity and composure. I also remember a 2004 Dits Del Terra with great fondness - completely different style of wine but the ﬁrst wine I (and only I) identiﬁed blind at a tasting group just after I’d received my MW. I don’t like the ‘blind’ game but certainly impressed that night! As did the wine ... DISCOVERING THE WINES OF CATALUÑA Discovering the wines of Cataluña

David Forer MW

Wine provides a constant sense of discovery and exploration. Even if you feel you are an “expert” of a region, there are constantly new producers, new styles of wine being made, and every vintage brings new joy and new beginnings of learning.

When I moved from my longtime home of San My first stop was Penedès, to visit some of the Francisco to Barcelona in the fall of 2017, I was top Cava producers, like Gramona. In the United excited about exploring deeper into the wines States, high end Cava is difficult to find. What a of Spain, and in particular, the wines of Cataluña. joy it is to taste Cavas that have had very ex- While I have had the opportunity over the years tensive time on the lees! To taste sparkling wines to taste many wines and vintages of Catalan that have been slumbering in cool dark cellars wines, in particular Priorat and Cava, I am living for such a long time (sometimes for 15 years) here now and eager to engross myself in the di- was a revelation. Wines with elegance, purity, fferent wine regions of Cataluña. but a rich complexity that comes from the long ageing. This is what puts Cava amongst the top After arriving in this beautiful cosmopolitan sparkling wines of the world. While many pro- city, I was quickly welcomed into the local wine ducers expressed their concerns about the see- scene. Through these new friends I was intro- mingly growing global dominance of Prosecco in duced to the vignerons of Cataluña and started the sparkling wine category, I believe focusing on visiting and exploring. And what an exploration quality and ageability will successfully differentiate it has been! Cava from Prosecco.

28 DISCOVERING THE WINES OF CATALUÑA

Next up was the vineyards and wineries of namics. All with the desire to make long term David Forer (MW 2017) was Priorat. I always say that you never truly know improvements to the land and to their wines. born in England, raised in Ca- a wine region until you visit it and walk the vi- nada, and then lived in San Fran- neyards and that is certainly the case in the ex- My exploration has just begun! I look forward cisco. He is an independent con- traordinarily steep vineyards of Priorat. Hiking to digging deeper into Priorat and surrounding sultant helping brands and wine breathlessly up the slopes of the vineyards of Montsant, to tasting more and more Cava, and associations, and judges at wine producers like Mas Doix makes one realize how to travelling to regions less known internatio- competitions internationally. expensive these wines are to make. The vine- nally, like Empordà, Costers del Segre and others. yards are incredibly steep, the vines are so spread As well, I can’t wait to dig deeper into new and out, the vineyard access is impossibly difficult, and ongoing changes in all of Catalan’s wine regions. there is desperately little water. However, the vin- For example, I have tasted many stunning wines gernons of Priorat have overcome these difficul- made dominantly or even entirely with Cariñena, ties with amazing passion for their land and wines from regions where Garnacha is king. Or the ex- and I think that will help them win the hearts and citing white blends of Priorat - many exciting and wallets of the international wine consumer. eye-opening wines, for sure.

It has been heartening to see such passion and Cataluña has welcomed me with open arms and dedication to the vines and wines. Many produ- I look forward to a long exploration of the exce- cers, even in tenuous financial times, have made llent wines made by such passionate producers. moves to organic and many further to biody- NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

29 BOBAL AND MONASTRELL: THE FLAVOURS OF MEDITERRANEAN SPAIN

Bobal and Monastrell: the ﬂavours of Mediterranean Spain Doug Frost MW

What makes certain wine exciting is its ability to offer differentiated flavours and aromas. When such aromas and flavours can be traced to very specific places, we begin to speak in loftier terms of csense of place’, transparency and terroir. Traditionally only the most noble of grapes are accorded such attributes, but Spain’s Mediterranean grapes Bobal and Monastrell deserve to be recognized for these self-same abilities.

Wines from grapes that dominate French vi- chrysum, aren’t merely a background for a neyards along the Mediterranean are often stroll in Spain’s Mediterranean vineyards. With celebrated for their aromatic intensity and Bobal-based wines in Utiel Requena and Man- for their expression of ‘garrigue’ (the aromatic chuela or Monastrell wines from Jumilla, those presence of juniper, wild thyme, rosemary, aromas add their colours to what might be an artemesia, lavender and others). But these otherwise uniform palette of flavours. accolades are generally limited to southern French wines, though the Mediterranean basin Monastrell or Mourvèdre, as it’s called in its is no less aromatic as it bends towards so- secondary home, France, is a success in places called French Cathar country, past Perpignan, other than its likely birthplace in Spain. The and into Cataluña. Local plants such as fennel last half-century has seen the grape prosper and mint, as well as juniper, wild thyme, ro- in Bandol and even, as a blending agent, in semary, artemisia, lavender and even heli- Chateauneuf-du-Pape. In Jumilla particularly,

30 Mediterranean Spain the ﬂavours of Monastrell: Bobal and cers, cluster weights grow to Brobdingnagian cently. Inthehandsoflessdedicatedprodu- re- upon yieldandnotqualityuntilvery as Spain’s hasbeenbased number threegrape tannins.mouth puckering ButBobal’s position otherwise its ripen to heat sufficient receives relegated toSpain’s Levante vineyards. There it Spain’s mostdensely plantedgrapes, itisstill climes aroundtheglobe, andwhileitisoneof Bobal hasn’t yet spread its wings to fly to other cially inthegrape’s Spanishhomeland. wines are to come,betting that superior espe- to the USA to from France Australia, many are to be certain, but with successful versions are still too young with the grape best efforts longevity areforthcoming. How long?Spain’s enough freshnessisretainedthatbalanceand full force in the region’s sunny elevations, yet power comes the grape’s black andredcherry best of these worthy grapes? best oftheseworthy tomake the willdowhatisnecessary ducers settled. Now thequestionis, how many pro- that the issue of potential excellence is already would agree observer be done. But any alert For bothofthesegrapes, somuch remainsto least as much as other better known grapes. capable of absorbing new oak spiciness, at thatarealsoThe bestshow rich, fruits dark class buzz. placed younger vines, world- aregenerating from boththeseoldplantsaswell asideally heads, turning producers winesdful ofcritical vines dottingthelandscapeandaneagerhan- old field. century the With in originated have uneven ripening, sotheinitialimprovements the wineries. give way Massive tovery clusters limiting measuresinthevineyards aswell asin have believers adopted proportions; thetrue BOBAL AND MONASTRELL: THE FLAVOURS OFMEDITERRANEANSPAIN

based Master Sommelier. HeisaUS- titles of Master of Wine and world to have achieved the one ofonly four peopleinthe Doug Frost (MW1993))is wine andspiritscompetitions. sultant, and also directs several writer,

author and con- 31 NUMBER 28_may_2018 FINDING THE MEANING OF SPANISH WINE Finding the meaning of Spanish wine

Richard Hemming MW

Flamenco, matadors, La Liga, tapas – and wine, of course. The classic images of Spain evoke sun-drenched glamour, untamed passion ... and Salvador Dalí-esque surreal moustaches. No wonder it seems so enviable to those of us from more restrained cultures, where glamour equates to putting extra vinegar on our chips and moustaches remain entirely predictable.

But what is it that makes wine typically Spa- Spanish wine is not alone in this respect, of nish? It’s an important question, because the course – casual drinkers have the same rudi- answer reveals the presumptions of most wine mentary knowledge of most country’s wines. drinkers. Whether they are right or wrong, these are still the foremost responses people Besides, everyone has to start somewhere, have to Spanish wine. and it provides drinkers an expectation of Spanish wine which is easy to understand. So Ask most Brits to name a wine from Spain, and what are the qualities that make Rioja so me- the first answer would surely be Rioja. (Indeed, morable? There are several key aspects. Firstly, according to The Drinks Business, five of the it is reliable and familiar, with red fruit, sweet top best-selling Spanish wines in UK retail are spice and soft structure thanks to oak ageing – Rioja – which is not surprising.) Other answers these are characteristics that generally please might include Cava, maybe Rueda and quite the crowd. Secondly, it is always good value possibly Sangria, but nothing beyond this very – from Joven to Gran Reserva, Rioja is one simple knowledge. of the great buys of the wine world. Further-

32 keep thingsexcitinganddynamic. that andtrend-setters theinnovators porting pical expectationsofSpanishwinewhilesup- llenge istosatisfythosewholookfor thety- ofSpanishwine.up thefulldiversity The cha- Together, oneofthemmake eachandevery and beyond. toBierzo to ManchuelatoRueda from Priorat wines that lie between those poles, everything to Listán Negro. And there are the dozens of from Getariako Txakolina toManzanillaPasada llenging. Spainhasmultitudes ofsuchwonders, even unusual cha- – more be to tend flavours there arenewdiscoveries tobemade, and less mainstreamstyles; the cuttingedge, where Yet withinthetrade, we tendtofocus onthe (One ofwine’s greatunsolved mysteries!) if the thejintoak. turns Anglicised version more, itisrelatively easytopronounce, even tache is surreal orsensible.tache issurreal yone canappreciate–whethertheirmous- quintessentially Spanish; qualitiesthatever qualities ofglamourandpassionthatareso tement. And whatconnects themallarethe value andreliabilitywithinnovation andexci- ofSpanishwinecombines The greatdiversity of thecountry. direct connectiontoalltheotherwinestyles which have and tradition, heritage but alsoa see them as examples of great Spanish wines, placent, to their customers and to encourage wines, thechallengeisnottobecomecom- taste of the country. of such For producers first their drinkers uninformed give often will and Cava play for Spanishwine. These wines rolethatwinessuchasRioja the important That means that we should all acknowledge FINDING THE MEANINGOFSPANISH WINE - cator andconsultant. 2015) )isa wine writer, edu- Richard Hemming(MW 33 NUMBER 28_may_2018 THE FUTURE FOR SPANISH WINES IN INDIA The Future for Spanish Wines in India

Sonal Holland MW

Often cited as an important emerging market for wine, India’s immense and evolving consumer population presents a number of opportunities for global wine companies. The Indian wine market continues to record a double-digit growth consecutively for the last 10 years, despite challenges posed every year by way of state prohibitions, regulation, demonetisation and other Government-imposed uncertainties.

Indian wine drinkers are largely upper-income Italy, South Africa and US. This may at first look earners and located in the Tier 1 urban cen- discouraging. However, interestingly, the IWSR tres of Mumbai, Delhi, Pune, Bangalore and reports on the Indian wine market cite a 28% Goa. Although these centres account for the growth in the consumption of Spanish wine majority of India’s wine consumption, in recent in India over the past year, lagging only behind years there has been an increased uptake of Australian imports, which lead growth at 29%. wine consumption beyond the Tier 1 cities The compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) on account of a new affluent class, growth of of Spanish wines imported into India over the 3-star hotels and mid-tier restaurants. last 10 year period from 2007 to 2016 is a healthy 19.2%; second only to New Zealand Among the top 10 wine countries consumed at 27.7%. These statistics directly point to the in India, in terms of volume, Spain features se- growing interest in Spanish wine among Indian venth on the list, after Australia, Chile, France, consumers. India Wine Insider 2017, a con-

34 and theincreasingly popularProsecco. a demandagainst the big boys ofChampagne tocreate earnestly to premium-endaretrying Cavaat thevalueendandGramona mid- winecategory,In thesparkling Freixenet Cava and Roda, hotels’La Horra on luxury wine lists. listed winesfromBodegas Maurodos, Bodegas have successfully boutique wineimporters thepremiumendofmarket,turing afew and fanfare. porting With the intent of cap- Campo India amidstmuchin Viejo media re- in 2017, global giant Pernod Ricard launched in the country,fying its already strong footprint the market.- forti With theintentoffurther growth endof at the price-sensitive in driving in India and has been instrumental wine brands Torres shareamongtheSpanish leads market its consumers. quency ofSpanishwineconsumptionamong strongawareness andhighfre- by reporting thisinference supports consumers, further and usageofwineamongurbanIndian thatstudiesawareness,sumer survey attitudes strong andbright. the futurefor SpanishwinesinIndiaremains reasonsandmore, Ibelievethese very that tive propositionfor regularwine-drinkers. For - makingthemanattrac great value, further continue tooffer Spanishwinesbrands veral consumer palate. There isnodenying thatse- World, thusmakingitappealingtotheIndian positioned astheNew World tasteoftheOld Spanishblends mayGarnacha-based well be of sound quality structure Tempranillo- and Span. The fruit-expressive,androunded ripe well infavourreasons work ofwinesfrom speaking, Strategically counterparts. all these perceived higherquality over theNewworld prejudiced biastowards Old World winesfor asmooth and balancedstructure. tobea There appears with profile fruit-forward a have red wines that prefer drinking consumers coholic beverages. of Indian A vast majority wineoverone reasonfor drinking otheral- inIndiacite Consumers ‘taste’ asthenumber THE FUTURE FORSPANISH WINESININDIA ni rmis‘o o mn’ in mind’ of remains ‘top India culture inIndiaandtoensure her agenda is to promote wine hotels, retail and the trade. On cator and consultant to luxury of Wine. Sheisanadvisor, edu- world. conversationswine around the Master only and first India’s is (MW 2016) Sonal Holland 35 NUMBER 28_may_2018 PERSONALITY IN THE GLASS – MORE SO THAN PROMOTION - WILL DETERMINE THE SUCCESS OF OUR WINES Personality in the glass – more so than promotion – will determine the success of our wines Andreas Kubach MW

Whenever a group of Spanish wine producers gets together, at some point the conversation will turn to the low average sales price achieved by Spanish wines in the export markets and the low share the country has in the middle and upper market segments.

Inevitably, somebody will mention that the re- Of course we produce many great wines in ason for this state of affairs is that “we just Spain, now more than ever. It is also true that don’t sell ourselves as well as the French and some of the best and most interesting remain Italians do”. Everybody will nod in agreement, unknown for the wide international public. because we all know that we have great “qua- However, one has also to admit that, as a cou- lity” and are only lacking “better marketing”. I ntry, we still produce far too many bland, ex- have been hearing this for my over 20 years changeable wines that – although technically making wine around Spain and selling it all well made - have little personality or sense of over the world. Any shy attempt to dissent or place. While the recent emergence (and often, to explain that things may be a bit more com- success!) of many more terroir-driven wines plicated is usually met with a mixture of amu- in all corners of Spain is truly exciting, this sement and contempt. Insisting further will re- development has been largely confined for sult in being called unpatriotic and a lecture on the upper market segments. The mid-market, how important it is to “defend what is ours”. which is so important to shape our country

36 many nationalities andautonomousregions is orItaly.as France ofits richness The cultural graphically, geologically and climatically diverse -is at leastasgeo- Europe afterSwitzerland sion. -themostmountainousin Ourcountry dimen- and a cultural wines with personality Luckily, Spainisin agreatpositiontoproduce levels.market We may call this wine quality 3.0. product, even at popular premium and mid- history. Inshort,wineneedstobeacultural needs toconvey asenseofidentity, and origin much more than a well-tasting beverage. It andbe capture theimaginationofdrinker In ordertocreatemorevalue, wineneedsto paid. positionandprices ofmarket in terms concept ofqualityisthatitonly gets you sofar (quality 2.0). The problem with such a narrow preferencesrequests orperceived market pulating thewinesinresponsetocustomer 1.0), or, morerecently, toacultureofmani- analytical features andlackofdefects (quality technical conceptionofquality, reducedto have inasimplistic,kers beentrained purely a wine drink-worthy. of winema- Generations ofwhatmakes understanding a fartoonarrow maximize the “quality” oftheirwines, but have by well-intentioned winemakers, whoaimto wines. Too many Spanishwinesareproduced of our - the personality - more importantly assessandimprovecritically thequalityand complacency andreducesany incentive to sely onekey problem ofourindustry. Itcreates wine Spanish needs over allismore “promotion” what ispreci- that notion flawed but In my view, shared, the universally comfortable, interesting. image andimprove average prices, ismuch less PERSONALITY IN THE GLASS–MORESO THAN PROMOTION- WILL DETERMINE THE SUCCESS OFOUR WINES tand, appreciateandbuy them. do,- allover winelovers willunders theworld drinking.Let usmake Ifwe more winesworth level, ofthemarket. but alsointhemiddletiers landscapes andtraditions, notjustatthetop lity”, making many more wines that reflect our “more promotion” towards - “more persona do so, letusshiftsomeemphasisaway from in the glass. amazing diversity our country’s To toexpress on ourcapacityaswinemakers The futuresuccessofSpanishwinedepends nalization. lity segmentationandmoremeaningfulregio- qua- better flexible,for allowing more getting volumes.duction finallyis legislation wine And also for wines with smaller distribution pro- andachievesier tocommunicate our stories direct-to-consumer saleschannelsmake itea- wines withauthenticityandaheritage. New, have never been more open to and keen on gistered sofar. worldwide consumers Current re- officially 235 the of top on varieties grape at least300additionalautochthonousSpanish identified have studies Recent incomparable. f Peninsula Vinicultores. of founder andmanaging director Master of Wine. Heisco- 2017) isaGerman-Spanish Andreas Kubach (MW 37 NUMBER 28_may_2018 LA PERSONALIDAD DE NUESTROS VINOS DEBE PRIMAR SOBRE SU PROMOCIÓN

Olivier Humbrecht MW, Alsace As far as my memory goes back, it was a Viña Tondonia. I tasted it in the late 1970s. My parents brought some wines back after a visit to Rioja. It felt so different to anything I tasted before, at the time, and almost exotic. I was still a teenager… Spanish wines of higher quality were not available in France in those days unless you went to specialist shops in Paris.

Kenichi Ohashi MW, Tokio My ﬁrst memory of Spanish wine is of tasting Tío Pepe. Thirty years ago in Japan, the only Spanish wines we could enjoy were Rioja and Sherry. At that time (and even now), Tío Pepe was the most well-sold Sherry brand here. It felt so exotic to taste with its bruised apple and camomile notes! (Remember even camomile tea was exotic then, as we only had coffee, tea and Japanese tea.)

Morgan Twain-Peterson MW, Sonoma Do Ferreiro Cepas Viejas: it was served to me blind at the Gramercy tavern in New York when I was 18. I had never had an Albariño and had never smelled anything like it before. It might have been old and rustic, or very modern, and this was neither.

David Gleave MW, London My memory is of blind tastings when studying for the MW. I always used to confuse Viña Ardanza with Burgundy.

38 EDITORIAL

Barbara Philip MW, Vancouver The ﬁrst Spanish wine I remember selling was the Marques de Murrieta Rioja Reserva. As a new sommelier in Vancouver I recommended it to a couple who loved it and took note of its details. Nearly 10 years later, in a different restaurant, the same couple came in. We did not recognize each other until the woman pulled out one of my old (and very battered) business cards on which they had written “Marques de Murrieta Rioja Reserva”. It was still their favourite wine!

Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan MW, Los Angeles The ﬁrst Rioja I had was the Faustino I Gran Reserva. I bought it in preparation for Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World wine class on Spanish wines which at the time was being held at the Twin Towers in Manhattan (shows you how long ago). I was so impressed by the packaging with the traditional-looking labeling with the portrait. I remember thinking how earthy and spicy it was and it made me feel important to be drinking something that was important enough to have a gold mesh around it.

Sarah Heller MW, Hong Kong It was the Viña Tondonia Blanco 1991 — before that I assumed Spain was essentially a country of big, bold reds (and hence not really for me!), but this waxy, delicious silk slipper of a white showed me that Rioja in general is a region that combines ethereal perfume with the most addictively sensual mouthfeel. NÚMERO 28_mayo_2018

39 SPANISH WINES IN GREECE Spanish Wines in Greece

Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

I have been importing top quality Spanish wine into Greece for the last eighteen years. Although I import wines from about fifteen countries, I value my Spanish agencies highly. I frequently make this point in conversation and people often ask me: ‘Why do you import wines into Greece in the first place? We Greeks produce fantastic wines, so who would wish to taste anything beyond these?’ ‘Why Spanish? Most cosmopolitan Greeks surely would only choose Italy and France, Chianti or Barolo, and Bordeaux or Burgundy”!

There are several reasons why I have a parti- While Spanish wine is top quality and almost cular sweet spot in my heart for Spanish wines. omnipresent (or it should be), it still possesses First of all, the wines of Spain are, beyond a a hint of exotica to a Greek consumer. One of shadow of a doubt, world class. No wine list the most significant problems in the world of in the world, no wine bar, no restaurant, no wine in the last twenty years, is the homoge- retail shop will have a comprehensive offering neity of grapes as well as styles. A growing per- without listing Spanish wines. Wine connois- centage of wine drinkers is tired of this trend seurs just cannot afford to miss out on these and wants to fight back. You hear people saying fine bottles. Without a solid knowledge of Spa- “no more Chardonnay”! “No more Merlot”! nish wines, a wine lover will always have an in- You will never have someone saying “No more complete picture of what is great wine – what Tempranillo” or “No more Albariño”! Wine can be.

40 SPANISH WINES IN GREECE

And it is not just the grapes, it is also the tastes. their wines with the totality of their image as Konstantinos Lazarakis A tendency that should have wine consumers a country, their life style and their social fabric. (MW 2002) was Greece’s first concerned is the homogeneity in the bottle. You have a glass of a Rueda or a Bierzo and, all Master of Wine. He is the Buying There are many wines out there coming from of a sudden, you ‘are’ there or you want to be Director of Aiolos, a fine wine obscure regions or made with lesser known or there. The prestige of Spain as a tourist des- & spirits importer, the owner even rare grapes. But then you taste the bottle tination and the outgoing personality of the of Wine & Spirit Professional and it is ‘taste as usual’. The remarkable feature Spaniards are seamlessly connected with their Centre, a wine school running of Spanish wines is that all the complexity of wines. WSET and CMS courses, co- the label is reflected in your glass, with distinc- owner of Wine Wonders, a gra- tive and even memorable characters. Spanish wine producers achieved this with an phic design company, and a wine efficiency others only aspire to. Greek wine consultant at large. But there is also another thing that makes drinkers should not fail to notice this. Further- Spanish wines imported to Greece special. more, Greek wine producers should not fail Spanish wine makers have managed to fuse to be inspired.

NUMBER 28_may_2018 NUMBER

41 TEMPRANILLO IN AUSTRALIA Tempranillo in Australia

David Le Mire MW

Tempranillo is at a fascinating point of its evolution in Australia in terms of its viticulture and winemaking and its place in the market. It’s part of a wider movement embracing ‘alternative’ or ‘emerging’ varieties in Australia, which is challenging the dominance of French varieties. It comes partly from a desire for new varieties and diversity from consumers and professionals, but also from a more fundamental aim to explore varieties that better suit Australia’s wide range of sites and climates.

Tempranillo in Australia is largely a good news today. Whilst its average crops are not high – story. It’s increasing in popularity, with good the national average yield per tonne tends to growth in sales, it performs well in a number the be in the 5 – 7 tonne per hectare range of regions, and as a lot of the early plantings – it has produced wines with concentration, are now over 20 years old, it is well-placed dark colours, and mid-palate flesh, all qualities to produce better and better wines over the that Australian consumers who have been next decade. This positive big picture, however, brought up on Shiraz can identify with. It has is, as always, more complex when we zoom in also not been handicapped by inferior clonal to the detail. material as has Sangiovese, plantings of which have declined marginally from a high of 610 Plantings of Tempranillo have grown from ha in 2001. around 40 ha in 2000 to more than 700 ha

42 being refined, so too is winemaking evolving. winemaking is too so refined, being With clone and siteselectionviticulture andHeathcoteshowing goodpotential.trict climates, Dis- withregionslike theCanberra already evidentistoplantinmorecontinental minimalintervention.requiring Oneresponse ving betterbalancedwinesmoreeasily made, all suggestthatpHswillfalland TA willrise, gi- increased vineage, andimproved viticulture, onclonesandsiteselection,work alongwith know fromSpain. At thisstage, though, more even thoughthevineshandle heatwell, aswe regions,Australian being well suitedtocertain the claims for could undermine Tempranillo that flaw important potentially a is This pH. to be low in acid,for the fruit and with high Viticulturally, the key issue has been a tendency firm, fine, andsatisfyingending. a into finish the on together strands the lling tomato spectrum, with late-palate tanninspu- herb, inthedried vours cherry, cola, sun-dried fla- of array an mid-palate, juicy, generous a exponents, itshows awinningcombinationof Tempranillo offering. Inthehandsofbest arealsoaddingdepthtothe and vibrancy example), and more emphasis on freshness Touriga fromMcLaren Vale beingoneleading judged blends (Steve Pannell’s Tempranillo less newoak, andattimesnooakall. Well- andbalance,more drinkability theyareusing vines,not oldShiraz seek andasproducers plenty ofnewoak. Young Tempranillo vinesare at highripeness, heavily extracted, andgiven Shiraz,made likepicked (traditional) withfruit A lotof Tempranillo in hasbeen Australia Sales andMarketing Manager. + ding Shaw Adelaide Hillswinery 2010 hejoinedtheteamatlea- of Wine EducationalSeminar. In Australasian InstituteofMasters – 2016wasco-convenor ofthe a roles developed in Australia inhis bar, inan a partner Adelaide wine gazine, isawineshow judge, is cluding the great namesofBurgundy, in- thatincludedmanya portfolio of Negociants Manager with he wasImports to Australia. From 2000–2007 centric’ the mid90sgave hima ‘euro- A two year stintinLondon bution, with experienceinretail, distri- a is David LeMire (MW2007) Australia’s He writesregular columnsfor Romanee Conti. tray, Roumier, andDomainedela Dury, Roulot, BonneauduMar leading Smith,

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43 NUMBER 28_may_2018 EXPLORING HONG KONG’S CONTEMPORARY WINE MARKET Exploring Hong Kong’s Contemporary Wine Market Debra Meiburg MW

Though Hong Kong is truly a multicultural city when considering population, cuisine and economy, just 10 years ago, the city was still a true wine Francophile. Finding non- French wines was almost unimaginable. Enter 2018 – where brands, regions and an array of countries battle for retail and menu listings. No doubt, Bordeaux still rules, but maturing wine lovers are exploring Stellenbosch to Sonoma to Sussex and much in between. So where does Spain sit?

It is useful to examine the current trends in ‘Wines from these countries represent greater Hong Kong (the city leads wine trends in Asia, al- affordability compared to French wines,’ said Wi- beit a few years behind the West), to see Spain’s lliam Chan, sommelier and restaurant manager position in the status quo, and to see where to at the Mira Hotel Hong Kong. The sweet spot unlock its potential for more widespread growth. when it comes to spend these days is HK$600+ At Meiburg Wine Media’s WineSPIT Conference (€70+) as opposed to the HK$1000+ (€115+) trade update last year, the heavy-hitters of the of yesteryear, he noted. Hong Kong’s wine trade noted that, in general, they are seeing clients move away from expen- The lower spend in restaurants and bars marks sive bottles. Sommeliers comment that restau- a departure from both fine wines and old vin- rant guests are opting for more casual selections tages, says Yvonne Cheung, director of wine for featuring Italian, Spanish and Portuguese wines. the Swire Hotels & Restaurants. ‘Our outlets are

44 Links Concept took onSpain’s leadingproducer, Speaking of premium, renowned wine merchant simple, quaffing wines and super-premium wines.’ €60), theyareagood halfway optionbetween ‘premium’ bottles. ‘At aroundHK$500(approx. towards more trend amongsocialdrinkers gardless of price.’ an upward Fung has observed drink, theywantittobegoodqualitywine, re- as much wineaswesterners. When theydo leisurely pursuit. don’t consume ‘Hongkongers stylish, a as more seen is wine fine appreciating and AnOther Place by David Myers. She says says Anty Fung, manageratHipCellar general almost anecessity. InHongKong, itisalife ‘style’,’ sewhere, is a lifestyle – a way wine drinking of life, culture is distinct from European cultures. ‘El- It is vital to remember that Hong Kong’s drinking Northeast. Hong Konglatelastyear withpopularimporter, producerofCava,to betheearliest launchedin ther, Raventós the Codorníu group, whoclaims propel this growth of premium Cava even fur to Champagne. alternative an intriguing Setto to fizz havingimage its bargain with from shifted secco market, Cava, too, is gaining momentum, Champagne market, andastrengtheningPro- seeing arevivalofSherry. strong With avery Bierzo, delDuero. orRibera Priorat Plus, we are Riojatodelve into sing beyond aperfunctory Kong’s winelistsandretail shelves areprogres- increasingly versatile, novel andgoodvalue. Hong but they are now varieties seen as and grape Hong Kong, due to their unfamiliar labels, regions an image problem in Spanish wines experienced areontherise.’wines andyounger Burgundies salesofthosebottlesoff-trade).still drive Spanish selling fewer maturewines(althoughcollectors - sionals, andthe trade. consumers andprofeswell- aseducationfor bothamateurs in – face-to-face relationships still rule Asia – as active is key presence by Spanish winemakers Spain. for an potential But with filled and bright market. All this shows the future iscertainly wine largest fifth Spain’s now is China billion. halfof2017hitrecordhigh of€1.3207 the first wine in the market. to China in Spain’s exports gauge to reviewwhenitcomestheacceptanceof auseful are figures export mainland’s gateway to China,As an important the La Planaalongwithotherwines. in Decemberlastyear. They areintroducingMas Torres, asitsexclusiveinHongKong distributor EXPLORING HONGKONG’SCONTEMPORARYWINEMARKET and theCathay Pacific Hong Kong. School; founding director MWM Wine the Asian winemarket. Sheis dered speaker, and is widely consi- list, award-winning author, journa- for nearly 30 years, and is an has Debra Meiburg (MW2008)

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45 NUMBER 28_may_2018 CLASSIFICATION OF VINEYARDS IN SPAIN – A KEY FOR THE FUTURE Classiﬁcation of Vineyards in Spain – a key for the future

Fernando Mora MW

Spain is well known for its use of such terms as ‘Gran Reserva’. But nevertheless it also sells some of the cheapest grapes in the world. The object of my Research Paper – the third stage of the Master of Wine qualification – was to find a quality categorisation that would enable one to identify the best wines from the best vineyards in a region such as Campo de Borja that was mainly about bulk production, but that had also shown itself capable of making great wines. This research would also enable me to create a list of recommendations for other DOPs.

The key was to understand the interests of The 10 conclusions were as follows: the actors in the region in question, to study • A wine blended from two or more excep- classification systems in other countries, and tional vineyards can be as good in quality to probe the different proposals being made as one from a single vineyard in other parts of Spain. • Villages are historical indications of origin but do not guarantee a certain quality level The objective of the proposed classification is through the mere fact that they are villages. to use it to increase the prestige and average • The key parameters of each area should price of the region’s grapes, and to protect the be identified to develop them in the classi- region’s viticultural heritage in order to gua- fication. (For example, old vines are among rantee its profitability and the future viability. Spain’s viticultural treasures.) • The classification system has to be simple

46 r nt rftbe Casfig wn by its awine Classifying profitable. not are yards whose future is not secure because they Many SpanishDOPshave exceptionalvine- winemaking practices, andsoon). level variety,each as (such classification of yield, at quality by meansofparameters guaranteeing the independence of the tasting panel, and of to traceability, of italsostressestheimportance producer, the wineandthevineyard. Inaddition of thevineyards, andtheneedtoclassify the tionship between wineandvineyard, theage Paper introduces concepts such as the rela- The Research the in proposed ‘3V’classification • • • • • • ahead oftheindividual. prioritized be should interest general The viability ofanewsystem. mentation planisneededtoensurethe imple- and communication marketing, A avoid alackofpoliticalagility. state-wide level could be thesolutionto a on association) (an alternative private A client. the supply chain and also focus on the final to consider all the links in it is necessary overregulate; to not taken be must Care the finalvalue. producer andtheresultingwinethatgive great wine; of the vineyard, it is the trio the a guarantee itself by not does vineyard A be morerelevanttothem. and tounderstand it easierfor consumers fferent regions of Spain; this would make acrossthedi- cation systemwhichworks classifi- standard a create to desirable is It cated toanotherregion. as itistheonly factorthatcannotberelo- and easytoexplain. isthekey,The origin aboutus/rp.cfm www.mastersofwine.org/en/ information more For RPs. other all and this, to copyright the retains tute Insti- The papers. practical have and theory students the passed after written is and examination, MW the of part third the (RP).Paper forms RP This Research Mora’s Fernando from are findings These value ofitsorigin. wine, onewhichwillprotectandenhancethe handled, arethose, whichwillendupasagreat fromthebestvineyards,best grapes carefully of a wine’s quality.is no guarantee intrinsic The etc) length ofageing(suchasCrianza, Reserva CLASSIFICATION OFVINEYA RDS INSPAIN – A KEYFOR THE FUTURE keen campaignerfor Garnacha. de Ainzón Co-operative. Heisa boration with the Santo Cristo ched Cuevas de Arom incolla- ness partners. In2015helaun- salse wt his with established Bodegas Frontonio, which he ultm wt hs is project, first his with full-time MBA. In2013heturnedtowine is anindustrialengineerand an MoraFernando (MW2017). two busi- 47 NUMBER 28_may_2018 REDISCOVERING SPAIN’S GLORIOUS GARNACHAS, AND ITS OLD VINE HERITAGE

Rediscovering Spain’s glorious Garnachas, and its old vine heritage Norrel Robertson MW

The term old vine carries a certain amount of romanticism, fantasy and an inherit inability to define. As discussed in a piece written for Vila Viniteca 3 years ago ( http://www.vilaviniteca.es/blog/en/the-fall-and-rise-of-garnacha-in-aragon/ )it is a bit like trying to define the age of a woman or a man.

To truly appreciate Garnacha and its old vine Spain’s´ different regions , as focus has moved heritage we have to consider the historic con- to defined sites and single vineyard wines. Es- text of the variety and the evolution in the vi- pectacle from century old limestone, terraced neyard from phylloxera onwards. What is left vineyards at altitude, high in the Montsant, is of these old vineyards, how do we hang onto possibly one of the finest examples of Spanish these jewels and learn lessons going forward. Garnachas. Similarly, we can look to the redis- Remember, historically Spain held over 170,000 covery of Gredos Garnacha. Again, based on hectares of Garnacha. This figure now repre- old vineyards and altitude, but this time with sents only 60,000 a continental focus and a base of decomposed granite leading to a completely different ex- Part of the glory of Garnacha is its plasticity – pression of the variety. the ability to adapt to different microclimates, soil and environmental changes . What once Aragon, sometimes wrongly bundled up into was thought of as a crude, workhorse variety in one style, also has a startling old vine legacy Spain, used to bolster wines lacking in body and and diversity . Defined by the Sistema Iberico, alcohol, now displays a myriad of styles across altitude and continentality, the province of Za-

48 yards tokeep ongivingquality lateintolife, longevity of vineyards and the ability of vine- now morefocussed onthe With anindustry match slopeandsoildifferences withinparcels. to pollenisation and planting other varieties were alreadythinking about improvedtimers of 5o10% other varieties.sprinkling The old- after vineyardsmany planteddirectly oldGarnacha many dated. vineyards are incorrectly Indeed, only inthe1970sand neyard register started records as other producing countries The vi- Spain doesnot have the access to vineyard vineyards,evolution ofGarnacha therestof data on theageand historical accurate fairly Whilst older DOs , suchas Rioja, canprovide Sancha) . Today we are down atunder10%. commanded39%ofDORioja(JC Garnacha a touchofmountainfreshness. Upuntil1973 exhibit more than vine examples from Navarra such asPeña ElGato, whichlike many oftheold oldvineyards also maintainedmany old century from Ad LibituminBañosdelRio Tobia have Sancha ofthecausesuchasJuanCarlos fenders the vineyard areahasover ofage, 90years de- ofsoils.wide variety InRioja, whereonly 0,6%of focus isonafresher Atlantic styleofwinewitha such as Lupier where the by wineries rrected of hiddengemsmountainvineyards resu- remainsapocket deUnxinNavarra St Martin of expressionin Aragón. toappear and willbe thepinnacle also starting Pyrenees. Old , single-vineyard based wines are the to proximity by defined style fresher a to Garnacha. Somontano in Huesca also lays claim of is commonly regarded as thecradle ragoza phylloxera moreoftenthannothave a

that we can maintain heritage andlegacy.that we canmaintainheritage how we plant and maintain new vineyards so vineyards shoudindeeddictatetosome degree ofolder some ofthereasonsbehindssurvival hasdimishedinvineyard area,Whilst Garnacha inSpain. tofieldgrafting arereturning cers vine establishment and longevity. Many produ- better provided has grafting field that possible with massal selection.grafted It is also entirely then first planted rootstock with grafted field All these vineyards would have originally been lance inthevineyard. touseit, return growers for moreba striving asqualityfocussednow makingaresurgence disregarded due tothislast point,gradually itis set.a tendencytowards poorer fruit Nodoubt tends toproducelooser, lighterbuncheswith with affinity good the plantabove, copeswell withdroughtand has system, root deep down a It puts . phylloxera after available first duLotrootstock – oneofthe on Rupestris mentioned aboveof the Garnacha was planted areatplay? most what factors Almost certainly

REDISCOVERING SPAIN’S GLORIOUSGARNACHAS, - and South Africa. and in various regions of Spain, Chile 1990s onwards. Healsoconsults across theworld from themid worked innumerous cellars at duate Viticulture & Oenology in 2003 he studied Post Gra- Aragón. Before moving toSpain village of Villarroya delaSierra, Old Vine Garnachaaround the SL which owns 15 hectares of producer ofElEscoces Volante 2000) isvineyard owner and Norrel Robertson (MW Lincoln AND ITSOLD VINE HERITA University in NZ and

GE 49 NUMBER 28_may_2018 EDITORIAL

Peter Marks MW, Napa My memorable wine is Beronia Rioja Reserva. I remember the American oak and the classic dried fruit, and thinking nothing would be better, and then I tried the Gran Reserva – and it was even more aged and complex and delicious.

Tim Marson MW, San Francisco My ﬁrst Spanish memory was of a Vega Sicilia tasting as an MW student – it completely transformed my perception of wines of the Iberian peninsula.

Ashley Hausman Vaughters MW, Denver López de Heredía 1957 The white remains the most amazing wine to date I have ever had. It stopped the world for seconds for me – I had never smelled anything like it. A haunting wine

50 EDITORIAL

Ulf Sjödin MW, Stockholm The ﬁrst one I clearly remember enjoying was Torres Gran Sangre de Toro 1982. Soft, intense and complex. And a price tag that was reasonable enough for a student to enjoy!

Michèle Anderson MW, California My memory is Tinto Pesquera - it was a new and distinct wine experience, a Tempranillo with some French oak, and it changed my belief in wines and in Spain.

Nigel Sneyd MW, California Viña Gravonia – An absolute revelation. It was incredibly intense and retained freshness and longevity. NÚMERO 28_mayo_2018

51 THE WORLD OF SPANISH WINES The world of Spanish wines

Jancis Robinson MW

Spain is the principal, arguably only, European beneficiary of the success of New World wines, whose deep colours, robust alcohol levels and ripe flavours have left the average French and Italian wine looking rather puny, tart and unfriendly in comparison. The Spanish wines grown in sunny Mediterranean climates are very similar to those responsible for the mainstream wines of Australia, California and South America. In the 1970s Spanish wines may have seemed coarse, rustic and rudely alcoholic next to the wines then regarded as fine, but today even Spanish wine regions as hot as Alicante, Jumilla and Toro make some wines of serious interest to non-Spanish palates.

This is not just because of changing consumer today’s Spain are well trained, well travelled and preferences. The catalyst for the Spanish wine sophisticated, unlike previous generations who revolution was improved technology. Sophis- had been isolated and hidebound by a peculiarly ticated irrigation systems may now help young Spanish view of what constituted quality in wine vines survive until their roots are deep enough - typically long ageing in old American oak ba- to find underground water. Refrigeration, the rrels. Modern Spanish winemakers are as likely key to modern winemaking in hot regions, has as winemakers anywhere to import their barrels helped winemakers retain freshness and fruit in from France as from the forests of Minnesota or grape juice that in the old days would have been Wisconsin which traditionally supplied the Spa- flat and irrevocably oxidised. Wine producers in nish wine industry with their barricas.

52 THE WORLD OF SPANISH WINES

While the Spanish wine industry was gearing de Borja, Carineña, Cigales, Conca de Barberà, Jancis Robinson (MW 1984) itself up, notably in the 1980s, it fell victim to Costers del Segre, Empordà-Costa Brava, Man- was the first person outside the trend then prevalent throughout the wine chuela, Montsant, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, Rueda, the wine trade to become an world to over-value everything French and Somontano, Terra Alta, Utiel-Requena, Valdeo- M W. She writes daily for Jan- under-value indigenous assets. Thus thousands rras, Valdepeñas and Yecla are all producing some cisRobinson.com and weekly of hectares of vine varieties that were par- stunning wines nowadays. for the Financial Times. Her pu- ticularly suitable for Spanish soils and climate, blications include The Oxford notably Garnacha and Monastrell, were pulled Of course not all of Spain’s interesting wines Companion to Wine (editor), up and vines perceived as French and therefore come from her warmer, drier regions. The damp, The World Atlas of Wine (co- top quality such as Cabernet Sauvignon and green north west of the country produces a host author) and Wine Grapes (co- Chardonnay went into Spanish soils. of varied and rewarding reds and, particularly, author). whites from local vine varieties. The most tradi- The wonderfully healthy thing about today’s Spa- tional region of all, Rioja, which now produces nish wine scene is that it is generally so – Spa- wines in a wide range of styles from traditional nish. Virtually all the finest wines are made from long-oaked, soothing, pale classics to concen- grape varieties with centuries’ experience in the trated essences more likely to electrocute than regions where they are grown. Those who make soothe, is so cool in autumn that it often has one them are no longer trying to make Spanish co- of Europe’s latest grape harvests. And the next pies of internationally recognised French classics, pretender to the throne Ribera del Duero is, like but are turning out an excitingly varied range of many Spanish wine regions, so high that nights distinctively Spanish wines. are cool enough to produce wines with great natural acidity and notably bright colours. Álvaro Palacios, the trailblazer behind the stra- tospherically-priced L’Ermita which put Priorat, and arguably Spanish wine in general, on the This is an abbreviated version of an article pu- international map, believes that the winemakers blished on JancisRobinson.com in 2006. of his generation are revelling in delving into their own history. “We have been putting our trust in our lineage with an almost spiritual perception, and having the vision to see that we’d be successful discovering our real roots. That’s why we have enjoyed recuperating so many of our wine regions.”

Of course, it is invidious to try to encompass the country with the world’s biggest area of land devoted to the vine in a single paragraph, but it behoves any interested wine lover to realise that such names as Alella, Bierzo, Calatayud, Campo 28_may_2018 NUMBER

53 ALBARIÑO IN NEW ZEALAND Albariño in New Zealand

Jane Skilton MW

New Zealanders love to fish. Whatever the weather, you’ll see recreational fishermen out on the water hoping to catch fish such as snapper, terakihi, whitebait and hoki. And whether served battered or crumbed with a scoop of chips at one of NZ’s ubiquitous fish and chip shops, or in one of our stylish urban restaurants, seafood remains a hugely popular choice for Kiwis.

The perfect accompaniment is a crisp, unoaked So which other country has a rich maritime white wine and New Zealand’s iconic Sau- history and a love of seafood? Makes a vibrant, vignon Blanc has been the go-to wine locally energetic white with excellent acidity yet for the last couple of decades. Nowadays it is as enough weight to be a good food wine? sought after overseas as it is at home, popular across the globe, and our biggest wine export Spain’s Albariño was the obvious choice and it by far. Having caught the world’s attention with was only a matter of time before the first vines this arresting, vivid wine, winemakers are now were planted. Whilst quantities are tiny (there starting to think of potential new varieties to are still only 30 hectares, mostly in Marlbo- explore. And without any appellation system in rough), the wines that have been released have place, NZ winemakers are allowed to plant any caused great excitement. The 2017 Air New variety. The vinous world is their oyster. Zealand Wine Awards awarded its trophy for

54 Zealand’ withtheirpunchy, hightonedfruit. context), the yet theycarry ‘essence ofNew global a (in Albariño as identifiable mediately told mehefelt hemade winesthatareim- produce to Albariño. He first the of one was Simon Nunns, Creek, winemaker atCoopers sugar/acidbalance.good natural the lasttwo vintageshe wasable topickwith duce aciditytogetthewineinbalance, but in “a bitofrain”. At thestart, Joneshadtore- is reasonably disease resistant and can handle vintage,at retainingacidityeven inawarm heat for Sauvignon Blancbut isgood Albariño of interms atthelimitinMarlborough right plained that the region’s vineyards are now likely when, kicks in. global warming He ex- tochampionif,will beagoodvariety ormore he wasexcitedby the grape. Hefelt thatit I asked Nautilus’s winemaker, Clive Jones, why 2016 Albariño.Estate Alternative White to Marlborough’s Nautilus Kiwi character Kiwi character own produced with a distinctly native varieties oneoftheir delighted atthechancetodrink of early,eating dinner very be habit may nevertheless our by mystified be likely will who It’s tocall. tooearly fromSpain, But visitors thathastheclearstampofNZ? riety beginning ofanothersuccessfulwhitewineva- appeal ofSauvignonBlancjustyet. Isthisthe noir) somaybe itdoesn’t have thecommercial pelling wine(Joneslikened ittogrowing pinot com- an attentiontodetailmake require atruly does It Pacific. South the of corner may haveAlbariño future here in a a bright days, early So whilstitisstillvery itseemsthat but nottoodifferent fromSauvignonBlanc. peals tothoselookingfor somethingdifferent, aromatics and freshacidity ap- tion ofvibrant biggest seller atthecellardoorascombina- the consumer?Surprisingly, itisNautilusEstate’s may loveWinemakers but whatabout Albariño h mvd to moved She London. in career her began Skilton Jane a member of the IMW Council. ternational wine judge. Sheis She isawinewriterand an in- qualifications. WSET teaching School of Wines andSpirits, NZ the founded and 2000 in ALBARIÑO INNEWZEALAND New (MW 1993) Zealand 55 NUMBER 28_may_2018 XIII TECHNICAL MEETING

XIII TECHNICAL MEETING OF THE FUNDACIÓN PARA LA CULTURA DEL VINO Oxygen management and processing and wine ageing in alternative containers

The Technical Meeting of the Foundation for the Culture of Wine (Fundación para la Cultura del Vino, FCV), held last February 22, made progress in the field of oxygen management in wine processing and bottling, as well as in another relevant sector field: ageing in wine containers other than the traditional 225-litre oak casks (barricas). The response of the 100-strong audience was again proof of the high degree of interest in a session which year on year stands as an essential gathering for wine professionals.

The introduction by Mr. Guillermo de Aranzabal, President of the FCV, and the ensuing official opening address by Ms. Cristina Clemente, Assis- tant Director General, Control and Food Labo- ratories (Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries, Food and the Environment of Spain) were followed

56 the productionofSpanishwines. intheinterestofimprovingchange information nical professionals toshare knowledge andex- tech- Meeting allowed the sector’s participating Muga). Thus, theFCV’s thirteenth Technical ( (TemposSicilia),Iturriaga Vega Mr. Rei Christian ( the Foundation: Mr. de Amézaga LuisHurtado thatsponsor ofthewineries technical directors Andreas Kubach, ofthe withthecooperation debated andcoordinatedby Masterof Wine Mr. llowed ofinformativetastingsessions, by aseries were fo- The lecturesgiven by leadingexperts (Vega ones. rriaga Sicilia)theafternoon Amézaga (Marqués de Riscal) and Gonzalo Itu- sessions,morning de and Messrs. Luis Hurtado Director of in enologyandbottling. Mr. JulioSáenz(Technical by presentations relative to oxygen management Quinta Sardonia) andMr.Quinta Muga( Bodegas Jorge Riscal), Mr.de Marqués Gonzalo del Herederos ) moderated the the SA)moderated Alta Rioja La Luis HurtadodeAmézaga,Christian Rei,GonzaloIturriagayRafaeldelRey. From lefttoright:LuisMiguelBeneyto,GuillermodeAranzabal, Adreas Kubach MW, XIII TECHNICALMEETING 57 NUMBER 28_may_2018 THE TASTE OF GREATNESS

On many occasions I have had the great luck of participating in the astonishing El Sabor de los Grandes wine-tasting sessions. When I began my journey into the world of wine, some 25 years ago, a number of mythical brands such as Château D’Yquem, Vega Sicilia, Pétrus, Latour or Sassicaia, seemed – in what was then my early and burgeoning wine- tasting time – to be unattainable. The Taste of Greatness: Sassicaia-Solaia By Alberto Coronado

I never thought I would have the opportunity This time I was to taste two great Italian wines, of tasting wines of such quality, wines priced at the mythical “Super Tuscan” varieties Tenuta San levels then in no way affordable. However, I was Guido (Sassicaia) and Marchesi Antinori (Solaia), fortunate enough to establish a professional re- in the company of the two lady owners (and lationship, through my corporation, Magic Circus, relatives), and of Juancho Asenjo as MC: I en- with the Fundación para la Cultura del Vino. This joyed a thorough and comprehensive presenta- relationship granted me the possibility of de- tion of the wines, their history, their origins and signing the FVC kits, the invitations for their their development. super-winetasting sessions, the Terruños magazine (which I am so proud of having named), and their Technical Sessions. All these activities A brief history of time, have taken place over a 20-plus year span, and I “Sassicaia” still find it wonderful, one edition after another, It all began with a person who holds a place to be there, at the Casino de Madrid, savoring of honor in the history of the origins of Super these magical and legendary wines that I, so Tuscan wines: Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Ro- often, dreamt of enjoying. chetta, who created the first Tuscan wine. He

58 a nephew of Mario Incisa,a nephew of Mario helped him create the timelater MarchesePierode Antinori,A short was afailure. rieties of French origin. But the experiment first vorno, couldleadtonotable growth oftheva- land owned by thefamily inBolgheri, nearLi- planted. Marchese wasconvincedThe thatthe be should they which in areas the defined and Lafite-Rothschild fromChâteau Sauvignon grape ofCabernet the Marchese buy strains several Peynaud, fromBordeaux, whorecommended Marchese Incisareachedoutto Professor Emile consumption.to aBordeauxfor hispersonal with the intention ofproducing a wine similar vines first his After planted Incisa WWII, Mario Carducci. rockyarea intheregionof Castagneto very named thewine“Sassicaia”inreference toa to use barrels wasacomplication,to usebarrels sinceonly output wasdisproportionate; theprohibition be employed;manded thatwhitegrapes the an absurdassembly; theexcessproductionde- ades: rotten wood thepractically usedrequired that had been afflicting Chianti Classico for dec- These wineswere a response to the stagnation oftheSuper Italy andtothebirth Tuscans. led to a sea change intheconcept of winein great expectations,had been but theirarrival were astounded.media andthemarket There Sassicaia first in 1972(the1968vintage),came to market the the of bottles few the When by the family,Antinori Giacomo Tachis. of the young oenologist employed the support the vinesindifferent areas of thevineyard with ofthiswine.intellectual creators They replanted Super great Tuscan.first They, the jointly, were THE TASTE OFGREATN ESS 59 NUMBER 28_may_2018 THE TASTE OF GREATNESS

the huge Slavonian oak barrels known as botti includes 20 hectares planted with the following were permitted; the ban on production of sin- varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon (15 hectares), gle-variety Sangiovese wines was a limitation; Cabernet Franc (1 hectare) and Sangiovese (4 and, most of all, a wine culture that believed hectares). in “quantity, not quality”, in the words of Piero Antinori. The stylistic aim of Solaia has been, from the start, to achieve a balance of elegance and a certain degree of austerity. This wine calls for Antinori, “Solaia” and elegance long aging as it evolves over time. It features The Antinori family has been producing wine firm tannins, bringing to mind wild berries and for over 600 years. When Solaia was launched spices along with a vibrant acidity to balance in 1978, the grapes had been obtained from the sweetness of ripe fruit. Solaia portrays a plot deep inside the Tignanello vineyard. As the unique qualities and characteristics that of 1997 another neighboring plot was planted, summon up its birthright, Chianti Classico. close to the first, with the same features as the original one. But other elements were added: Solaia is only produced in vintages defined as altitude, terroir and exposure to sunlight, which exceptional from the point of view of climate. gave the wine its name. At present the vineyard It was not produced in 1980, 1981, 1983, 1984

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61 THE TASTE OF GREATNESS

or 1992. The single exception to the classical mixture was the year 2002: the weather was particularly challenging and compromised the maturing process to the point that the quality of Sangiovese grapes was judged insufficient for inclusion in the final mix. That year’s vintage used only Cabernet grapes.

The wine tasting session However, this session held in the Casino de Madrid was a majestic vertical wine tasting of Sassicaia (2013, 2008, 2004 and 1999 vintages) and Solaia (2013, 2010, 2007 and 2001 vintages). These wines require time for refine- ment in the bottle and, when strength is balanced with finesse, procure a scarcely imagi- nable sensory pleasure.

Following are my impressions: Solaia (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% San- giovese, 5% Cabernet Franc) • The 2013 vintage stood out because of the complexity of its aromas and its powerful palate; • 2010 was more elegant and spicy, with su- perb structure; • 2007 was very complex, seductive and per- black berries and chocolate flavors but sonal, strong; lacking the “sinew” of other vintages; • 2001 gained a great elegance during its life • 1999 licorice and balsamic notes, ripe fruit, in the bottle, with pronounced fruity and spicy intensity, full-bodied and well-balanced complex nose, elegant and silky palate. palate, well rounded.

Sassicaia (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab- After the wine tasting I was presented, by way ernet Franc) of a souvenir, with an empty Magnum bottle of • 2013 quite intense and complex; Sassicaia 1999 in its decorative pyrographed • 2008 improves its elegance, rich balsamic wooden case, which I keep in my office. It is background with red berries; a beautiful reminder of this exceptional wine- • 2004 tamed by time, complex and elegant, tasting session.

62 Director, Mr. Rafael del Rey, within a framework sion includeda presentationprovided by our Diplomatic SchoolinJune. The wine-tastingses- Among thesewe highlightevents heldinthe representing Spainabroad. groups,and moreespecially for delegates of institutions significant for sessions wine-tasting of In 2017, theFCVorganized, onceagain, aseries business schoolsandsigniﬁcant groupsorparties Demonstrations andwine-tasting sessionsin June 2018); tickets toanumber freeentrance Master of Wine Symposium (Logroño, Spain, 2018); tickets tothe for adraw threeentrance of the lastseries Technical Meetings(February (November 2017); discounts (ofupto40%!) in the Casino de Madrid cocktail party private their love a ofwinewithFCVpatrons during session;los Grandes) thepossibilityofsharing November 2017Flavor oftheGreats(Saborde ding ItalianwinesSolaiaandSassicaia, the during the wonderful winetasting sessionsofoutstan- have enjoyed accessto: anumber oftickets to established – in 2017–andits members April It isnow Clubwas oneyear sincetheFriends the FCVinespecially advantageousconditions. by aim atgainingaccesstoallactionsundertaken are wine devotees who,Members in their milieu, culture ofwine, Clubin2017. createdaFriends line withitsfocus onthedisseminationof The Cultura delVino Friends ofFundación parala Fundación para la Cultura del (FCV),CulturaVino la in para Fundación cava, white, andredwines. of FCV wines including a variety sion featuring heritage,historical aswell asawine-tastingses- of wineanditsroleinsociety, culture, and Spain’s markets. The sessionprovided aglobaloverview and including theknowledge ofwine, itshistory ness our representatives must overseas display, of the aware- which highlighted the importance • • • How doIbecome an associate?It’s quitesimple: year-olds. fee: 90€/year for adultsand60€/year for 18-35 All oftheabove affordable for annual atruly to thecellars. sing wineand/orpaying visits members, be it in purcha- to andsponsors wineries by conditions guaranteed la Estación); and preferential Gourmet, de CatadelBarrio 2018 (Alimentari, Salóndel tasting sessions tobeheldin and wine- fairs of leading trade Phone theClubat00-34-91-799-2980. Send an email to [email protected] Visit http://culturadelvino.org/fcv UPDATE FROMTHEFUNDACIÓN 63 NUMBER 28_may_2018 UPDATE FROM THE FUNDACIÓN

Spanish students at the Institute of Masters of Wine With the aim of helping, insofar as possible, 23 and 24, 2018 (the mock exams) in La Rioja Spanish and foreign students living in Spain Alta SA (Haro). These sessions were directed who are currently studying at the Institute of by two enthusiastic Masters of Wine, Andreas Masters of Wine, the FCV organized a series Kubach MW and Barbara Boyle MW. The stu- of very special wine-tasting sessions on March dents greatly appreciated the efforts made.

Introductory weekend

For the fifth consecutive year, the FCV held presented by students who very much enjoyed the Institute of Masters of Wine Introductory this event and became better acquainted with Weekend at Bodegas Muga, in Haro. This year’s the Institute thanks to the support provided by event was especially noteworthy due to the Pedro Ballesteros MW, Andreas Kubach MW, notable attendance of students from other Jane Hunt MW and Barbara Boyle MW. countries. Italy, France and the UK were well re-

Coming soon... We at the FCV continue to pursue issues which from discounts on registration fees for other we hope are of interest and which, as always, events and sessions. will be enjoyed by lovers of wine and its culture. Membership in the FCV Friends Club will open We are currently looking to the next Technical the gates for partners to participate in events Meeting that, during 2019, shall focus on wine- that, to date, were accessible by invitation only. growing. It will also allow them to actively become involved in sessions tailored exclusively for asso- Additional information regarding the Fundación ciates. And, furthermore, members will benefit para la Cultura del Vino is available at: www.culturadelvino.org