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Point to Point

Point to Point

Point to Point Head in the clouds This guide has not and feet on the ground been designed for use AUTONOMOUS REGIONAL by pilots and their AUTHORITY OF passengers alone, but also, and above all, by all those who like to - look at and understand REGIONAL AUTHORITY things from a different point of view. Free from obstacles and impediments, REGIONAL AUTHORITY we will guide you, in flight, along the routes marked by evidence of our past and the infi- nite surprises offered REGIONAL AUTHORITY by the landscape; in places where nature, and the work of man- kind combine to be- REGIONAL AUTHORITY come art. leisure flight itineraries in veneto, emilia-romagna, tuscany, liguria and sardinia

Guido Medici AUTONOMOUS REGIONAL AUTHORITY OF SARDINIA Tourism, Handicrafts and Trade Department Viale , 105 - 09123 tel. 070 6067005 - fax 070 6067255 oint o oint e-mail: [email protected] P T P www.regione.sardegna.it Leisure flight itineraries in Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Project coordination: Tourism Dept. Liguria, Tuscany and Sardinia

Five Italian connected by an aviatory point to point; five regions EMILIA-ROMAGNA REGIONAL AUTHORITY that express a unique product resulting from the combination of the Department for Tourism and Trade beauty of their landscapes. Viale A. Moro 64 - 40127 tel. 051 283491 - fax 051 284169 The Regional Authorities of Sardinia, Emilia-Romagna, Liguria, Tus- www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it cany and Veneto have joined forces in an inter-regional project called [email protected]/romagna.it “Point to Point” - funded by the Ministry of Productive Activities pur- suant to art. 5 Law 135/2001 - aimed at promoting and valorising the environmental, artistic, cultural and oenogastronomical heritage of the LIGURIA REGIONAL AUTHORITY respective territories. Tourism Sector The leitmotif of the project unites these five territories by proposing a Via D’Annunzio 113 - 16121 tel. 010 54851 - fax 010 5484024 new kind of high-quality tourism that offers users an innovative vision www.regione.liguria.it of the places visited. www.turismoinliguria.it Of the project’s various common activities, a privileged space was dedi- [email protected] cated to this volume, which proposes a “visit” of the regional territory from an unprecedented standpoint: itineraries followed on the wing ac- companied by aerial photographs that provide a extraordinary overview TUSCANY REGIONAL AUTHORITY of the territories of the participating regions, seen from the air, as they Tourism Promotion and Development Policy Dept. Via di Novoli, 26 - 50127 could be admired from a leisure aircraft, to create a unique plot that fax 055 4383141 contains them all in a single reality of land and sky. website: www.rete.toscana.it/sett/turismo A guide for pilots, passengers and all those who like to look and see e.mail: [email protected] (project information) things from a new angle. [email protected] (tourism information) From the to Lagoons, along the Adriatic coast, across the Apen- nines to the rugged Ligurian coast, from the Emerald Coast to the Pada- nia Plateau, from the to the hills of Sardinia, without limits or VENETO REGIONAL AUTHORITY frontiers, with the sense of freedom that a plan alone can give, overfly- Tourism Department ing the territory with a new outlook that allows a global vision of the Cannaregio 168 - 30121 infinite variety of ’s landscape. tel. 041 2792644 - fax 041 2792601 www.regione.veneto.it/Economia/turismo The volume also constitutes a useful practical tool for flying, with in- dications on the location of the airports and airfields throughout the course described. Point To Point HEAD IN THE CLOUDS AND FEET ON THE GROUND Table of contents: Text and Photos Guido Medici On the way ...... page 6

Editor On the wing ...... page 8 This publication is co-edited by the Regional Authorities of Sardinia, Veneto Emilia-Romagna, Liguria, Tuscany A look back through ...... page 12 and Veneto as part of the inter-regional Regional cuisine ...... page 14 project entitled Point to Point” funded Airspace geography ...... page 16 pursuant to art. 5, Law135/2001 On the wing ...... page 18 From the to the sea, the Valley, , the land of , Editing the , City centres and stately homes, the Plateau, Venice and the coast, Towards the Delta and Romagna.

Emilia Romagna E.I.L. di G. Medici A look back through history ...... page 42 Via F.lli Bandiera 76 Regional cuisine ...... page 44 30175 Venice Airspace geography ...... page 46 On the wing ...... page 48 On ’s lidos, the City of salt and eels, Towards the pinewoods of the Ra- Graphics and paging venna Coast, the City of the Byzantines , the Cervia saltworks, the Romagna Riccardo Chinellato Riviera. Along the via Emilia, the Roman Cities, In the Valley of theMalatestas.

Contributors & collaborators Tuscany Aeronautical consultation: A look back through history ...... page 72 Emanuele Menna, Roberto Giacopello Regional cuisine ...... page 74 Aviation charts: Airspace geography ...... page 76 Davide Giacopello On the wing ...... page 78 A.S.A. srl - In the Valley, En route to , Arezzo, Exploring the Chiana Valley, Historical context: On the curves of the land, the Era Valley, the city of Puccini, and the Luciana Milani Apuans. Photographic processing: Giona Grazioli Liguria Photography A look back through history ...... page 102 Air Data srl - Regional cuisine ...... page 104 EliPiù srl - (VI) Airspace geography ...... page 106 On the wing ...... page 108 Translation by The Levante Riviera, the Montemarcello , the Cinque Emma Claire Drew Terre, the Rocky Coast, the Gulf of Tigullio, Portofino Nature Reserve, From Levante to Ponente, on the Ponente Riviera, Rocks and , the © Guido Medici Plateau, the Riviera of Flowers, Botanic gardens and prehistoric sites. Avioportolano® Italia Sardegna Copyright holders A look back through history ...... page 132 Regional Authorities of Sardinia, Regional cuisine ...... page 134 Emilia-Romagna, Liguria, Airspace geography ...... page 136 Tuscany, Veneto. On the wing ...... page 138 The Iglesias mines, the Crags of Masua, the Desert of , the Corsairs’ tow- Published ers, the Gulf of , the Lava of Santa caterina, Torre Foghe and , July 2005 , From to , The San Teodoro lakes.

The aeronautical information pro- Airports and airfields ...... page 160 vided in this volume is unofficial and pilots should in any case refer to AIP Italia indications. ■ Point to point Introduction

ON THE WAY We are used to travelling increasingly frequently and ever greater dis- tances, by train, by car, by plane; we often travel from one point to another without paying little or no attention to what exists along the way. We therefore waste the time that we spend travelling and make it as short as possible. Maybe this is why we want faster trains, cars and aeroplanes, to prevent us from getting bored. However, it is the journey that . Everything that is good or bad about going from one place to another will happen along the route; during the “trip”, with stops, cally anywhere. The landscapes are events and encounters that often, albeit briefly, leave their mark, im- described in words and using pho- printed on our memory and they give us new energy to act and think: tographs, with a vast assortment not of another place to reach but another trip to make. of pictures that allow the reader to have a comparative and immedi- ate view of the wealth of the Ital- ian territory. The same applies for the cities, towns and fortresses that Aircraft offer us the chance lie along the programmed flight to “see” the territory from a routes described. As we travel using privileged point of view. A craft that require ongoing, accurate synthetic vision from above mechanical checks, and above all that facilitates clarity and un- fuel, I have included all the techni- derstanding: no roads and cal stops where one may find any obstacles, the speed at which spare parts that may be required one moves from one environ- and qualified personnel for aircraft ment to another, the speed of maintenance. movement. “Aerial” views do With regard to the aeronautical in- however have a number of dis- formation, I have included the par- advantages compared to views ticular VFRs (Visual Flight Rules) “from the ground”: details can in the various CTRs and, in the be lost, there are no signs and text, those that I considered use- indications to help us recognise places and routes, there is no contact with the ful and that although they are not land. One has to put one’s feet back on the ground to get back to one’s environ- written, pertain to the knowledge and of local pilots. I purposely have ment. In this guide, I have attempted to combine the advantages of aerial vision not included particular information on IFR (Instrument Flight Rules). with those of visits on the ground, in an attempt to “guide” the pilot and his The appendix contains the characteristic statistics of the runways present in the passengers using landmarks on the ground that, in addition to aiding naviga- various regions: geographic coordinates, dimensions, name, municipality and tion, also allow them to recognise, understand and interpret the landscape. town, telephone number and amenities available. This data is the property of By “Aerial Tourism” I mean just this: flying from the take-off point to the land- Avioportolano Italia and is gathered every two years through a national census ing point without being estranged to what one promoted with the sponsorship of the Ministry of Productive is flying over, but rather aware of and curious Activities - Department for Tourism, Ministry of Transport about the places, landscapes, the traces of our and Aerial Navigation and Aero Club d’Italia. history that we have the fortune to observe from Lastly, a number of acknowledgements are due. I above an exceptional view point. Each transfer can be- all thank that victorious part of myself that still believes come a brief research and the aerial route, not just that sooner or later, like the water that seeps through a straight line drawn on a map between the depar- the most hidden interstitial spaces of the earth to ture and the arrival runways, but a set of points, form a river, valid ideas and projects find space to imaginary stops, rapid and fleeting encounters that continue and become facts: I thank those who are nevertheless interesting and on occasions even as- have shared this and the five regional tounding. authorities that have believed in the possibil- It is an opportunity not to be missed, but in order to ity of realising it. I thank my collaborators who realise it we need a “guide” that explains the entire terri- have worked on the project with me, put up with me and in- tory from an unusual point of view. From above, rather terpreted what were at times, vague and confused indications. I dedicate my than from below. In Italy, there are some 550 airports and airfields, of which work to anyone who will appreciate it, to those who have been close to me and 40% are in Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Liguria and Sardinia. This to my children, who are always present in whatever I do. makes it possible to visit the length and breadth of these regions landing practi-

  ■ Point to point Introduction

ON THE WING In the definition of the itinerary described in this book, no particular logic is followed except that dictated by the desire and will to synthesise, nut woods, expanses of groves, in the brief space of these few pages, the beauty and the characteristics and the most beautiful cities in the world. And then up, of five regions just as rapid and concise yet wide-reaching and complete northwards along the parks of the Tyr- is the vision offered by air travel. rhenian, the lagoons, the river mouths and the beaches of Versilia. I nosed amidst the early bathers of the prestigious beach fa- cilities and photographed wild, inaccessible beaches; I observed I decided that a good starting point would be the mountains and the flocks of birds taking flight first “route” to refer to was one of Veneto’s most important with regard and placid herds that grazed to its role in history and the environment: the Piave. I flew along this river, unperturbed and indifferent discovering its particularities, until reaching Venice, its lagoon and its spaces. to my passage. And higher Breath-taking panoramas of water and land that fuse together in the symbiosis still, beyond the peaks of the of a single body, the strength and weakness of a city and an , following the line of the entire population. deepest ravines of these mountains to see Usually, having reached , one cuts the Po Delta the lesions from which the rich lymph of to the east of its mouth. This time, I decided to along candid, precious still bubbles. the last limbs of land, with the curiosity of an explorer The itinerary that I propose to my read- in search of new, unknown things. And I have ers continues in Liguria that, I must con- to say that I was not disappointed: fess, caught me a little off guard, so great the encounter between water and were the differences to be observed in so land offers exceptional specta- few kilometres. Liguria is rather off the cles. For kilometres, I followed beaten track, but I highly recommend Emilia’s beaches, skim- visiting it. I followed a good portion of ming the waves of the the Levante riviera, flying over rocky sea, the surfaces of coasts, towns climbing up nature, the saltworks and impenetrable woods and land laced the mane of the by terraces. A natural and man-made pines; I lingered landscape that immediately demon- over the cities and strates just how close the connection towns, prying with the between the Ligurian people and the sea lens of my camera be- and land was and still is. I passed Genoa to the tween the monuments north to return to the Ponente Riviera and con- that, I discovered, have tinue my journey to the French border, passing the unusual ability of immense of flowers, on the deep track of being more visible when an ancient history, over towns and cities that have seen from above. always lived in symbiosis with the sea. From the coast I headed Lastly, I came to Sardinia. In order to reach the island west, following the natural from the , the most usual itinerary is to pass road of the Val- over with a technical stop, if required, at the air- ley. How different the rivers port there. The route heads west and in the direction of of Tuscany’s Apennines are to the Corsican coast for approximately 65 km towards the those of Veneto! The former airport of Bastia. One then continues along the eastern coast are short and torrential, the lat- headed south with a technical stop at or the airfield of ter are long and broad; they run San Teodoro. in Valleys and dig deep grooves. For technical reasons, the flight itinerary proposed in these pages started from Here we see the history that Siliqua. Sardinia is admired and known for the beauty and variety of its coast- made Italy great; one does not lines. An incredibly vast assortment that on the wing can be enjoyed to its full even need to pay great at- value: a few minutes took me from crags and cliffs to white beaches, from flow- tention: it runs beneath ers to the desert, ponds and lakes, flying over the remains of powerful ancient you and captures you cities. Then up, to the north and once more into the green prairies, penetrating every time you fly over a the heart and soul of Sardinia, to end amidst the caves on the water of the Gulf town. I passed over chest- of .

  ■ Veneto ■ Veneto A look back in history

A LOOK BACK IN HISTORY of the period and Veneto boasts a number of walled cities, includ- Veneto has been inhabited by man since ancient times and fossil evi- ing , , , Bassano, Castelfranco, and dence found in the dates back some 150,000 years. At different Este. The castles at , and are just a few of the many exam- times, it was inhabited by the , Ligurians and Rhaetians as well as ples still standing. Walled cities, fortresses and castles can be observed especially by the Veneto people it is named after. The Roman occupation brought in the region’s foothills, the legacy of the free towns and the expansion of the with it the start of a process of structurisation that can still be recog- Seignories that followed. nised in the layout of the roads and cities and the agricultural organisa- Veneto’s stately homes tion of the Veneto region today. The Venetians penetrated inland, along the rivers and used The roads of the Empire to transport raw materials and It is to Roman colonisation that we owe the foundation or fortification of farm produce, erecting many impor- preexisting settlements such as Padua, , , , Concordia tant stately homes (the famous “Veneto and Altino. The modern road network covers a number of Roman routes: Via ”), which were economic centres, Postumia, which forms the great east-west axis of the region from to places of leisure and holiday homes. They can Verona, before continuing as far as Genoa; , which stretches from be seen above all along the Riviera, from Padua to Altino and Aquileia; and the Claudia Augusta road that runs along Vicenza to the Berici Mountains, and in the foothill the Piave Valley towards . area. Significant sixteenth century examples of Pallad- io’s work can be seen around Vicenza and . The Centuriatio System One peculiar element of the Romans’ territorial organisation are the grille- shaped areas, where the land is divided into 710m squares (centu- Following the decline of the riatio) that were assigned to veterans and residents. Eleven such , evidence of areas exist, the largest of which is at the brief Napoleonic occupation (in the ). is still visible in the reorganisa- tion of the beautiful Terraglio The birth of the Serenissima Republic road between and Tre- of Venice viso, which is lined by centuries The gradual population of the lagoon old plane trees and stately homes. area commenced around the 5th cen- tury and it was in this era that Austrian Rule the Serenissima Republic Under Austrian rule Venice lost its insu- of Venice was estab- larity and was physically connected to the lished, with its first head- mainland by a railway bridge. quarters at Malamocco (modern day Lido), which The 20th century was later moved to Rialto. Fol- The creation of a motorway net- lowing countless battles with Vicenza, work, the growth of a widespread Padua and Verona, Venice came to govern system of small businesses and the de- Veneto in 1400. velopment of numerous important industrial areas gave rise to evident territorial modifications. One example is The republic reshapes the land the creation, in the 1930s, of the chemistry at From the 14th to the 18th century, the Republic changed the shape Porto Marghera, which still occupies a significant portion of the coastal and lagoon territories, radically transforming the morphol- of the lagoon territory. In the south eastern part of the re- ogy of the southern course of Veneto’s rivers. From the Po to the and gion, vast areas were reclaimed the Brenta, from the Piave to the , river beds were deviated, their courses from the lagoon swamps and used for farming, thus cre- amended and their outlets modified. The submerged sandbanks were consoli- Legenda: d a t e d with the mighty fortification of themurazzi and the various inlets ating the environment that were altered time and again. can be observed above all centuriatio in the eastern territory that stretches from the Sile, to The cities become fortified fortifications the and to the The simple city walls of the free towns were replaced by the sturdy fortifications mouth of the , castles on the border with .

12 13 ■ Veneto Wining and dining

REGIONAL CUISINE Piave, Schiz and smoked cheese) that in is served everywhere as There’s a good book entitled “A tola coi nostri veci” written in Venetian an accompaniment for roebuck and chamois game, mixed horse- , by the Venice-born writer Mariù Salvatori de Ziliani that com- soppresses di casada sausages and river trout. If you are particularly lucky, in the wintertime you may find snails on the menu. mences thus “I happened to read (I do not recall where) an article by a writer who had nothing better to ponder than to ask himself, is there really such a thing as typical ?”. The doubts of the unnamed writer are rapidly dispelled by the author, who continues: “far be it for The golden traingle me to call him mad, but if you ask me, this blessed writer does not have the The authochtonous Prosecco vine grows in the “Golden Triangle” comprised faintest idea” by the towns of , and , in the up- per Marca Trevigiana area, and is used to produce a series of sparkling, dry whites that are popular on tables throughout the Land of fine The entire course of the Piave, until it meets the sea, is world. The king of all dishes is the Red Chicory framed by vineyards that produce high quality wines from Treviso, which is still farmed using a tech- from Cabernet, Sauvignon, , Pinot Nero and nique that dates from the sixteenth century and Raboso , to name but a few. Towards , Li- consists primarily in forcing and whitening of son di production dominates. This white the vegetable by growing it in the dark. The lack is obtained using Tocai grapes (a typically Friulan of chlorophyll makes the leaves white, crisp and cru of which there are also numerous vineyards in the slightly bitter. This vegetable is absolutely exquisite ), to which several more can be added. The region’s red wines when grilled and drizzled in . A must in ri- are made from Merlot and other red grapes such as Malbec, Cabernet and sottos and delicious in all dishes and with any type of Refosco. accompaniment, even ice cream, and dessert. The nearby Montello hill guarantees conoisseurs mushrooms of outstanding quality.

Lagoon fisheries Food in the lagoon area is varied, Venice: helpful hints but seafood dominates. There are a great many high-quality dishes and Here many still believe that the rest specialities include Sarde in Saor, - of the world is “countryside” and that ghetti with caparosoi (cockles), fried the is still the “Gulf of or grilled cuttlefish and seafood risot- the Serenissima” as it was in the 1600s, tos. Seabass and gilthead are always so a little patience is required. Gener- readily available and in general the fish ally speaking, one can eat and drink well in is excellent: it is usually served without Venice. I would choose something historical, in dressing and almost always cooked sim- order to fully exploit the pride of ancient glories: fried ply on the grill, turning twice. cuttlefish (mouthwatering when hot), liver alla veneziana (a must for those who like the taste ), sarde in saor (, raisins, onions and pinenuts), bigoli in salsa (a spaghetti-like served with an anchovy ) and if the season is right, moeche frite (fried crabs). I exaggerate, intention- Exceptional horticultural produce The particular properties of the land ad- ally, when I say: “Everything else is boredom”. jacent to the lagoon both to the north and south of Venice exceptional vegetables of recognised quality. We highly recommend the castraure Veneto’s wines: (tiny served raw and seasoned), wild , marrows and, around Chioggia, the red chicory. Lison Pramaggiore Piave

Prosecco di Coneglia- Colli no e Colli Berici Valdadige Rustic dishes Colli di Conegliano Lessini Durello Bianco di Following our itinerary from the mountains to the sea, Veneto offers the palate Montello and Colli numerous unforgettable opportunities. The cooking is often made of simple, Asolani Garda San Martino della Battaglia rustic flavours, such as polenta and cheese (, Malga Bellunese, , Vicenza

14 15 ■ Veneto Source: charts and text compiled by the Author using data and information provided by AIP Italia (airports) and Airspace Geography Avioportolano (ULM runways). Warnings: the information contained herein is unofficial. Pilots are responsible for consulting the specific sections of AIP Italia for information on current regulations.

Airspace Geography point, routing an level/altitude AFIS on freq. 123.25 MHz requested. before overflying/crossing depar- Veneto’s complicated airspace geography is reminiscent of the cold war ATC Unit may approve the ture/approach slope or entering and the dangers of the Soviet and Slav East for which, had they been request or modify the clearance aerodrome traffic circuit in order (holding outside CTR or over to receive pertinent and available able, western leaders would have banned not only flying, but also doing convenient visual reporting information. the high jump. Recently, things have changed a little and the excessive points) or assign routing/level as GARDA CTR restrictions of certain spaces have been reviewed, however the routes appropriate or clear the flight on CLASS “C” AND “D” VFR routes published in RAC Controlling authority remain difficult and require due attention from pilots, above all those 4-4-7.19 Control Service is provided flying private aircraft: Treviso, Venice and the military centre of Aviano VFR traffic along the route: by Garda Approach Control (from GND to FL 280 class D), which are positioned close together, PADOVA EST/VILLATORA - Military Centre MARANO - shall ATS Authority: Italian Air Force have vast CTRs at ground level. There are also a great many small mili- establish and maintain VERONA/Boscomantico tary areas of various types: shooting ranges, ammunition depots and radio contact with Ven- airport ezia TWR before passing All air traffic from/to VERONA/ barracks. PADOVA EST/- Boscomantico shall operate TORA when inbound, or VFR only up to same location when Rules for VFR flights TREVISO CTR ing points) or assign route/level outbound. Before entering CTR, VFR Class “D”and “C” as appropriate. On the following points: flights shall request clearance Controlling authority See: RAC 4-4-3.15 RAC SPINEA - MALAMOCCO - to APP/TWR, specifying entry Control Service within Treviso 4-4-3.16 aircraft shall be cleared point, routine and level/alti- CTR is provided by Treviso Ap- AVIANO CTR by Venezia TWR to join the tude requested. ATC Unit may proach Control Military Centre. CLASS “C” AND “D” aerodrome traffic patterns or to approve the request or modify ATS Authority: Italian Air Force Controlling authority overfly the aerodrome. the clearance (holding outside Special rules for Treviso S. Control Service is provided Whenever necessary, said points CTR or over convenient visual Angelo AD by Aviano Approach Control may be used as holding points. reporting points) or assign rout- Due to heavy military traffic and Military Centre. The VFR overfly- ing/level as appropriate. In the to grant a safe and orderly flow ATS Authority: Italian ing of Venezia event of overload on Garda of traffic, IFR flight plan cancel- Air Force. and its sur- APP frequency part of traffic lation is not allowed within Rules for VFR Aviano CTR roundings, will be instructed to contact on Treviso CTR for aircraft to/from traffic as shown in other frequencies. VFR traffic, Treviso/S. Angelo AD Radio contact RAC 4- overflying Garda CTR, has to VFR flights with Aviano 4-7.21, is follow VFR routes published in Before entering CTR, VFR APP shall be Treviso CTR prohibited RAC 4-4-2.25. Other routes will flights shall request clearance established below 3000 be permitted only if previously to APP/TWR, specifying entry on FREQ FT on Ven- authorized. Ronchi dei Legionari CTR point, routing an level/altitude 120.125 ezia/Tessera Radar service by Garda APP/ requested. MHZ before QNH RADAR will be provided only VICENZA WORKING in the event of emergency or on ATC Unit may approve the entering Aviano zona di lavoro Vicenza request or modify the clearance CTR and shall be AREA pilot request. (holding outside CTR or over kept until cross- Airspace class G Rules for VFR traffic from/to enezia In the area defined approximate- MONTICHIARI aerodrome convenient visual reporting ing is completed. Padova ATZ V CTR points) or assign routing/level as VFR traffic flying through ly by the points of PIOVENE VFR traffic from/to Montichiari appropriate or clear the flight on CTR shall follow the VFR Garda CTR – BASSANO aerodrome shall fly along the VFR routes published in RAC route and height shown in DEL GRAPPA – CAMISANO routes and at the levels reported 4-4-7.19. RAC 4-4-6.5, moreover it must VICENTINO – MONTEC- in the GARDA CTR – VFR Due to heavy military traffic, have Transponder on MODE CHIO MAGGIORE there is Routes chart. VFR flights operating below A – 7000. Holdings may be a work area with traffic from In order to receive information Treviso CTR “3” zone shall be performed according to RAC GND to 5500FT AMSL with about IFR traffic operating conducted at height not above 4-4-6.5. intense IFR flying from and to within Montichiari ATZ, a VFR 1000 FT AGL. Holdings over other reporting Conventional signs: Vicenza AD. Service times 0700- holding point has been estab- RONCHI DEI LEGIONARI points, along published VFR Leisure airfields SS+30 (0600 – 1800). lished over LONATO (1000 CTR – CLASS “D” routes, may be requested at ATC Airstrips marked Traffic bound to the aerodrome FT AGL). ontrolling authority within or planning to cross VFR arriving flights shall be C discretion. Military airports Control Service is provided by VENEZIA CTR VICENZA working zone shall instructed to contact Montichi- Ronchi Approach Control CLASS “C” Civilian airports report to VICENZA TWR for ari TWR, before such holding VFR flight procedures Controlling authority Mixed airports instructions before entering the point, by Garda APP. Before entering CTR, VFR Control Service within Venezia Runways without zone. Traffic operating within In accordance to the new regula- orientation VICENZA zone shall maintain tion issued by ENAC (Civil flights shall request clearance CTR, 1 and 2 zones, is provided C.T.R.: lower to APP/TWR specifying entry by Venezia Approach Control GND limit radio contact with VICENZA Aviation Authority) dated 28- point, route and level/altitude Centre A.T.Z. or restricted TWR 01-2002, and published in AIP - areas requested. ATC unit may ap- VFR flights FLIGHTS OPERATING Italia RAC 1, VFR night activity prove the request or modify the Before entering CTR, VFR Zones P, D or R WITHIN PADOVA ATZ is suspended in order to obtain clearance (holding outside CTR flights shall request clearance VFR flights intending to operate the prescribed authorisation. or over convenient visual report- to APP/TWR, specifying entry No-fly zones within ATZ shall contact Padova

16 17 ■ Veneto On the wing

zonovo airfield (Colli Euganei - PD04-5), which is well stocked with spares and acces- sories and has aircraft repair and maintenance amenities. To the east, one encounters the airfield (Ali Veneta - VR13-4) that, in addition to be- ing an authorised Rotax Centre, also stocks spare parts, propellers and a range of accessories. An- Nicelli airport, Venice other possible technical stop in the Verona area is at Valeg- Lido. gio (ULM Scaligero – VR06-2). In central Veneto, the main centres are at (Montegaldella – VI05-6), (Il Ranch – PD01-6) and (Ali Venete – PD03-3). THE AIRPORT AND AIRFIELD NETWORK Montegaldella has a certified aircraft, engine and instru- ment maintenance workshop. Total number Total length Average length

36 13 30.000 2.000 THE San Pelagio 15 1.800 25.000 1.600 San Pelagio (13 km south of Padua, towards Bologna) and the ancient 20.000 1.400 1.200 that was once owned by Zaborra, which is surrounded by splendid, 15.000 1.000 extensive grounds, are home to the Air Museum (“Museo dell’Aria”), directed Airports 800 10.000 600 by Ricciarda Avesani. It was from here, on the 8th August 1918, that Gabriele Airstrips 5.000 400 200 d’Annunzio took off for with 11 aircraft full of flyers that he dropped Airfields 0 0 onto the city. The Museum’s exhibits include over 300 aeroplanes and the large exhibition rooms narrate the development of aviation in Italy and the Data More than 50% of Italian runways are concentrated in rest of the world, from its origins to the current day. It is no longer possible to Compiled by the Au- land there as the runway is out thor on Avioportolano : 260 airstrips; approximately 175,000 of Italia - 6th national the 364,000 m of runway that we estimated for the whole of use, however the Museum is Census data. of Italy. This demonstrates the existence of a capillary net- worth a visit and the adjacent work of small and large runways on average about twenty restaurant is the perfect place kilometres apart. for a relaxing break. It is open In the Veneto region, there are some 64 airports, airfields from March to November and simple airstrips (of which 13 are airports) with a to- (Mondays subject to booking tal linear development of over 44 km of runway, most of only) and in December, Janu- which is located along the strip of territory to the north of ary and February on weekends the airports of Vicenza and Treviso, between state road SS and bank holidays only. Open- ing hours: 9:00 am-12:30 Runway of Corte 53 (Vicenza, Treviso, ) and the foothills of the Bariani, Arquà mountains pm/2:00-5:30 pm (winter) 9:00 am-12:30 pm/2:00-7:00 TECHNICAL STOPS pm (). A great many airfields and private “Museo dell’Aria e dello Spazio” aircraft runways offer good qual- – Castello di San Pelagio – Villa ity, cutting-edge technical servic- Zaborra – Via San Pelagio 34, es. Arriving from the South, one 35020 – Padua. can stop off at (Rovigo Tel: 049 9125008, Flying Club - RO03/7), which of- fax: 049 9125929. fers maintenance services, albeit e-mail: [email protected] on certain days of the week only. Website: www.museodellaria.it Further north, we come to Poz-

18 19 ■ Veneto On the wing

he iave alley From the mountains to the sea T P V The Piave and the Piazza del Duomo Our itinerary starts out from Belluno (46° 08.44’N 12° At Belluno, the Piave The Renaissance façade 13.18’E) and will follow the course of the River Piave to River is wide and the The Piave and its waters of Palazzo dei Rettori surrounding landscape cross the Cordevole (1491) in Piazza del the shores of the Adriatic Sea. The city is a little known and the Terchie. To the Duomo, Belluno treasure and was the birthplace and home of sculptor Dino is suggestive. On the north, the spectacular Buzzati who described it thus: right, is the Belluno Dolomites. “Belluno and its valley have a spe- Dolomites Na- cial character that gives it an ex- ture Reserve traordinary charm, but one that to with the great peaks of Mounts Pel (2500 m), Alto be honest, very few recognise. Why? (2069 m) and Pizzocco (2186 m). The entire area Because in “Val Belluna” there is covered by the Park, from Belluno to Feltre, is a a marvellous and almost incred- protected, no-fly zone at altitudes lower than 3300 ible fusion between the world of ft AGL. However, one may only fly alongside it, keeping Venice (with its serenity, the classic to the line of the River. harmony of its lines, the ancient The valley was inhabited in ancient (the remains - ofvil refinedness, the hallmark of its un- lages have been found dating back to 4-5000 years ago) mistakeable architecture) and the world of the north (with and in Roman times. Following the decline of the Roman the mysterious mountains, long winters, fairy tales, the spirits Empire, it was fought over by various seignories, militarily of the caves and woods, that untranslatable sense of distance, controlled and the venue for battles until 1400, when it solitude and myth )” (Dino Buzzati – La mia Belluno). became part of the Serenissima Republic of Venice. The The airport, which is framed by mountains, is located a few only of the many fortresses that were erected in the Val- kilometres from the city along state road SS50, when taking ley to have survived is off from runway 05 one must pay careful attention to the the castle of Zumel- 1900 metres of Mount Dolada, where there are many hang le (46° 02.13’N 12° gliding and delta plane launch sites. Our 04.61’E) to the south itinerary will take us along the Piave of the town of Mel. Valley, however, those who wish The landscape at this to save a few kilometres to travel point, where the Piave The City Centre south, may follow the motorway swaps waters with the In the beautiful city for Vittorio Veneto, which is rivers Cordevole to the north and Terchie to the south, Villas and Castles centre, the old side is truly stunning. Along the bottom of the valley, next Venetian villas and for- streets to the south equally picturesque from a tifications demonstrate of Piazza del Duomo scenic standpoint. to the River, run the SS50 and the railway line that con- the importance of the follow the meander of nects Belluno to Feltre. To the left of the River is another Piave Valley to Venice’s the Piave River, where main road, which connects interesting little towns such as and military fisherman use the spin- Mel (46° 03.43’N 12° 04.48’E), (46°04.47’N policy. ning technique. 12°08.05’E) and (46°02.40N 12° 01.21’E).

Belluno Airport Belluno airport nestles in the Piave valley between the mountains and the Dolomites. It is perfectly visible as the runway stretches over 800m, with 05/23 orientation, between the river and the Feltrina state road, at an altitude of approximately 380 m above sea- Following the Piave level. The airport’s The Piave descends history commenced the valley to the north with the First World of Belluno and then veers south west, before War and developed making a clear turn with the growth of to the South at Feltre. aviation between Here there are several runways, an ideal start- the two wars. It is now the headqaurters ing point for visiting of the “Arturo Dell’Oro” flying club. the area.

20 21 The Piave: the way of the rafts The Piave was the waterway along which the tree trunks destined for building ships and residential buildings were transported from Cadore to Venice. The enormous trunks that were gathered in the woods started from the Padula Valley and travelled to Perarolo. Here they underwent an initial treatment and were assembled to make rafts. Belluno was a strategic stop-off during the journey to Venice and the “zattieri”, as the raft crews were known, were obliged to stop in the city under order of the Serenissima Republic of Venice. The rafts then contin- ued downstream to Falzè where the crew was replaced. At (another strategic point during the journey), the rafts were tied together to form convoys to be driven to the lagoon (the Piave used to run out into the lagoon before it was diverted towards the exterior) and then on to Venice. Here they were anchored in the on the shore still known as “delle Zattere”. The trunks were untied and the timber was sent on to be worked. Today, the Piave is no longer navigable because locks and dams have been built to avoid flooding and over- flows. The river bed is accessible by land by means of many paths and trails.

22 23 ■ Veneto On the wing

Feltre Here the Piave takes a clear swerve to the south. On the right, one sees the open up: exactly at the strategic crossroads between these two roads, set in a natural amphitheatre, lies the picturesque citadel of Feltre (46° 01.09N 11° 54.21’E). That it has a strategic location (both valleys to the north, to the heart of ), is evident from the air; the ancient Romans looking to the left, one can see two parallel hill crests, Dams and locks on understood this attribute perfectly and the piave transformed the ancient settlement into a whose old livery is conserved on the ridges alone. All the The Busche Dam (left) trading and military centre to which the Via rest are vineyards, which stretch for 30 kilometres towards and the Fener lock Claudia (46/47 a.d.) provided access from Vittorio Veneto. A long, straight road runs along the foot (right). The itinerary described Altino (the most important port on the Adriatic) and the of the hill, leading in this section and therefore the Danube area (which the through towns Romans had already reached). Following the decline of the that have be- Empire, Feltre obviously suffered the same fate as many come famous the other important cities: complete destruc- world over with tion. It was then fought over by free states the DOC Pros- and seigniories throughout medieval times, ecco label, and until 1400, when it passed under the con- that also possess trol of Venice, thus commencing a period of prestigious archi- splendour and prosperity, evidence of which tectural and artistic treasures : (45° 51.46’N 12° is still visible today. Again thanks to its unu- 02.20’E), Col San Martino (45° 53.47’N 12° 05.04’E), sual position, in 1500 it was sacked again by (45° 54.17’N 12° 07.29’E), Feltre (45° 55.25’N 12° 12.30’), Pieve di Soligo (45° 54.01’N Hapsburg troops and was subsequently completely rebuilt The Golden Triangle A fortified town with by the Venetians. In short, it is worth a little detour to pay 12° 10.25’E) and di Feletto (45° 54.50’N 12° The Piave comes to the a strategic position at tribute to this beautiful and elegant place. 15.03’E). These are towns and places that are worth a visit, Plateau running along the entrance to the the hills covered by Valsugana and the Piave making the most of the excellent position of a number of The home of Prosecco the Prosecco vineyards Valley. At Feltre, the runways from which one can set out for a multitude of tru- that follow the slopes River turns southwards Leaving the Dolomites behind we continue our journey to ly original outings. The first is located atVidor , on the left- and contours of the and passes through the land (side) with curious mountains (below), the south, remaining on the vertical line of the Piave, which hand bank of the River Piave (Vidor TV09-4); the second becomes narrower in this stretch, as it passes through the is at Farra di Soligo (Quartier del Piave TV08-4) and the designs and fascinating before entering the patterns (below). The plateau. mountains, until reaching the locks at Fener (45°53.88’N third at (Dream Fly TV11-2), which area offers a number of 11°56.86’E). From here it stretches over the , opening is only suitable for use by motor-powered delta planes. landing points. up on a wide gravel bed, where its waters fan out into doz- ens of branches, creating striking light and colour effects, a truly enchanting and curious sight. This is the home of the prestigious Cartizze and Prosecco wines and vineyards decorate the hillside as far as the eye can see. At Valdobbiadene (45° 54.02’N 11° 59.45’E),

24 25 ■ Veneto On the wing

City Centres and Stately Homes Along Montello’s southern Montello Hill Montello Hill Montello hill, which is slopes runs the road that runs covered by woods, is a As one takes off from Vidor using runway 16, opposite lies along the line of the foothills of small hill with regular a hill with clear, precise and regular contours. A curious the Alps. From Valdobbiadene contours, where one panettone-shaped mound on which the residents of Tre- can observe the karstic (45°54.02’N 11°59.45’E), it is interest- phenomena known as viso and Venice find shelter, cool, good wine and extremely ing to follow along the western side of Montello to over The town of “doline” , funnel- good mushrooms. fly Maser (45°48.32’N 11°58.31’E), Asolo (45°48.04’N shaped depressions It is the Montello that do not in any case 11°54.49E) and, last but not least, hinder agricultural hill and its shape is (45° 45.59’N 11°44.03’E). At Maser, one can clearly make activities (right) so singular that one out , one of Palladio’s masterpieces, erected cannot help but be in 1560. Asolo is maybe one of the most fascinating city struck by it when centres of the Marca Trevigiana area. Perched on a hilltop, approaching it for it still maintains important evidence of its history: the Ro- the first time, espe- man baths and , the castle and fortifications built as Below, Bassano and its cially from the air. protection against the attacks from the nobles of Ve- famous bridge It is a kind of bub- rona, Padua and Venice, which fought to control ble on the plateau made of alluvial deposits that emerged it and the 16th century stately homes testifying due to the tectonic pressure exerted in a north-south di- to the final victory of Venice. Of these, Villa Asolo rection. It is almost entirely covered by woodland, crossed and her grounds, slightly to the Writers and poets have by small roads (that the Venetians built and used to call left of the city centre, merits a special men- succumbed to the “prese”) and dotted with a multitude of funnel-shapped charm of this wonderful tion. Those who wish to stop (and we recom- town in the hills of the depressions (known locally as “doline”) and caves created mend that one does) to take a closer look, may (op- by the action of the water that gathers inside them, before land on the 360 m runway to the south of the posite page), dominated filtering down into the innermost depths of the earth. by the Fortress (below) town (Asolo Flight TV02-3). erected between the late 12th and early 13th centuries.

26 27 The On the 10th October 1974, for the first time ever, I “detached my shadow from the ground” taking off from Venice Lido airport on runway 24 aboard a P19 on a beautiful sunny day. It was the first time that I had piloted an aircraft and the first time I had seen the lagoon of Venice from the air. It is impossible to say which of these two marvellous things absorbed me most, which gave me the greatest emotion. The lagoon of Venice is formed primarily by the action of the tides and the coastal currents that carry debris and sediment from the rivers. This phenomenon, com- bined with the action of the Brenta, caused the formation of the sandbanks of Cavallino (to the North), Lido (in the centre) and (to the south), which act as dams and mark the boundaries of the lagoon, which can be accessed, by water, from the inlets of Lido, Malamocco and Chioggia. For Venice, the lagoon provided efficacious protection against potential attacks from the earth or sea, it provided the city with adequate food supplies thanks to and farming (particularly suited to horticulture) and was a safe harbour for merchant ships. In short, so vital was its function that it was subject to ongoing, extensive intervention: the excavation of canals, construction of inner embankments, pro- tection at sea with the consolidation of the sandbanks and inlets and diversion of the rivers. The Brenta and the Piave , which flow into it, for instance, transported debris that tended to reduce the depth and were therefore diverted to the south and to the north, respectively. The navigability of the lagoon was of such great importance that the political and technical aspects of the matter were the exclusive competence of the Savi alle Acque. There was also a kind of Water Police and one needed a licence to discuss and deal in all matters connected to hydraulics. Anyone found along the banks of the Brenta River without a licence was severely punished. Things today are a little different, however both the intervention and the contro- versies continue now as in the past.

28 29 ■ Veneto On the wing

Reclamation Work As one comes to the lagoon the geometry of the crop fields becomes more regular. These are the areas involved in the reclamation of Last stretch unhealthy marsh lands The last stretch of the performed in various Piave that runs to the eras to combat edge of the Lagoon to- and recover land for wards the city of Jesolo. extensive farming. Below, characteristic lagoon constructions.

Heading back towards the River, one can follow the foot- one may follow the coastline of Cavallino, Lido hill road along which there are four runways: Careano di Venezia and Pellestrina to Chioggia. This is San Marco (S. Marco Volo TV05-3), (Mon- the area of beaches and the ancient pinewood tebelluna TV13-4), Selva del Montello (Ali del Montello that has been devastated and devoured by TV06-2) and (Albatros TV12-4) to Santa Lucia the buildings that almost di Piave (Mandre TV04-6). reach the water’s edge. Of the ancient vegetation that covered these The plateau territories, a few traces can still be seen Having left behind the rolling foothills, the plains appear along the coast at Cavallino. This area is as characteristic Veneto landscape, small farmed fields and truly beautiful, with the sea on one side and a multitude of villages and re- the immense plain of water on the other, mote houses that populate every separated by the sandbanks and canals. corner of the area. The Piave be- comes wider still, the waters split Venice and the coastal area into dozens of branches and the At the end of the Cavallino coast, one en- banks grow more distant. On a counters the first inlet of Lido and, immedi- Northern lagoon level with the Venice - Trieste motorway is air- ately on the opposite bank is the old Venice The splendid landscape field (G. Carrer TV03-7) and slightly further to the south, S. Nicolò airport (Giannino Ancillotto LIPV of the northern lagoon, which is visible as one San Donà di Piave (45° 38.00’N 12° 34.20’E) marks the VE06-10). Lido is highly populated and takes off from Caposile start of the reclamation lands. Until the late 1800s, this area the centre lies to the west of the airport, where the means was covered by the bogs and swamps created by the Rivers of communication with the city centre dock. When the (Piave, Sile and Livenza) and was gradually reclaimed for area was nothing more than a strip of sandy dunes, veg- agricultural use. The fields are large, regular and marked etable gardens and orchards, the heart of the settlement by canals and estate roads. The work on the watercourses was located on the spot where the new airport now stands; conducted in the area is evident: the Piave, that once ran in particular, around the Benedictine The Veneto plateau into the lagoon was deviated towards the Adriatic with the Convent that stands a few dozen me- A view of the Veneto construction of a canal that runs straight towards the town plateau inland from the Lagoon of and then on to the Sea. One good landmark is the airfield at Caposile (Caposile VE01-4), right on the border of the Northern Lagoon, along the banks of the beautiful Sile River, whose original bed was deviated to run out into the Adriatic. Here the landscape of the Venetian Lagoon is particularly fascinat- ing. To continue towards the south,

30 31 The sandbanks of Lido and pellestrina The flight along the sandbanks that enclose and protect the lagoon and city of Venice to the east is both a unique and a fascinating experience. Coming from the south, one passes the inlet at Chioggia and Malamocco and over the mighty Murazzi dam. Along this coastline, the sea and inner lagoon are overlooked by the small towns of Pellestrina, Malamocco and San Pietro in Volta, characterised by their curious, low houses with bright colours and odd shapes that make the most of even the smallest of spaces, as shown in the photograph above. Opposite the houses, along the lagoon foundations, are hundreds of mooring points for the boats that represent a way of life and are vital for both business and leisure activities. The entire coastal area is famous as being one of the best sources of horticultural produce on the planet, thanks to the particular properties of the soil. From the air, one can see hundreds of small vegetable gardens that constitute the particular, unique landscape of Venice’s coastal region. In certain places, the beaches are wild and full of dunes, whereas in others (such as those around Lido), they are characterised by world famous beach facilities.

33 ■ Veneto On the wing

Venice Lido Venice Lido is a narrow strip of land with the sea on one side and the lagoon on the other, protected at sea by artificial dams, with vil- lages, vegetable gardens, shipyards and docks.

Here the beach becomes wilder and more fascinating and Transport The motorboat service having passed the port of Malamocco, one comes to the is an easy way to get little towns of San Piero in Volta and Pellestrina, charac- to Venice from Lido terised by the colourful houses that overlook the lagoon, airport the little vegetable gardens, the shipyards and the squeri tres north of apron 24. Today, Lido is a world-famous holi- where boats are repaired. Beyond Pellestrina, one comes to day resort. From Lido airport, one can easily the mighty Murazzi dam, which was started in 1744 and get to the centre of Venice by or motor- is made of enormous boulders placed on a layer of peb- boat, and it is possible to stay on Lido all year bles and stilts that stretches for 4 km with a width of 14 round. Immediately after takeoff, the specta- The Murazzi dam cle that opens up before the pilot and passen- The Murazzi dam is gers is of incomparable beauty. Following the a splendid, mighty defensive construction route towards Malamocco, one flies over the that dates from the entire lagoon coast, with its famous beaches, 1700s and is composed the protection of the marazzi dam, the large of bounders arranged on a layer of pebbles hotels and the splendid little towns that pop- and stilts that has a ulate the area. The Lido coast is densely populated, with total length of 4km constructions, some recent, that lead to the small town of and a width of 14 m at Malamocco. The last beaches before the inlet are the Al- the base beroni characterised by the presence of sand dunes and woods.

Holiday-making Hotel Excelsior and, below, the most Nicelli Airport modern and recent part The runway of the current airport was of Lido with Venice in the background. used during the Great War, although the civilian airport was offcially opened on the 18th August 1926 with the first Venice-Vienna flight, per- formed by a single-engined Junkers 1-BATB. The airport was managed by the company Transadriatica and soon achieved important status thanks partly to the presence of efficient aeronautical maintenance and production workshops. It soon became Italy’s second most important airport with regard to the number of passengers and volume of mail transiting. After the war, it gradually declined and was kept alive by the activities of the local flying club and its school. It has now been refurbished and provides an international stop for amateur pilots. It has maintenance and overhaul services and rapid transport services take visitors to the centre of Venice. Aeroclub “G. Ancillotto” – Aeroporto Nicelli – S. Nicolò, 30126 Venezia Lido. Tel: 041 5260808 Fax: 041 5261124. e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.aeroclubvenezia.com

34 35 Chioggia The last strip of land in the southern lagoon is home to the splendid cityof Chioggia, one of the Adriatic’s most important maritime centres. It occupies two parallel and is crossed in a north-south direction by four routes. The first is the city’s main street (Corso del Popolo), a place for strolls, markets and shops (on the left in the photo above); the second is the Vena Canal, immediately to the right of the Corso that is crossed by eight bridges and where the typical lit- tle lagoon craft are moored; the third route is the S. Domenico canal where the fishing boats anchor; and the fourth is the Lombardi Canal (in the photo below, visible on the left). The alleyways and side streets arranged perpendicular to these main routes are lined with houses and are often no more than one metre wide. Historically, Chioggia enjoyed a certain degree of autonomy, although it always had a tolerated relationship of subjection with Venice, of which it was a loyal ally in the most critical of times. Between 1378 and 1380, it was occupied and de- stroyed by the Genoese who were in turn definitively defeated by Venice, which thus assured complete, definite predomination over the Adriatic and a large por- tion of the Mediterranean. After the occupation and the destruction suffered at the hands of the Genoese, the city was unable to return to its former glory and became increasingly bound to Venice and her ups and downs. North of the Corso del Popolo is Piazzetta Vigo (above), where the boats that connect it to Venice moor. The bridge on the right is Vigo Bridge, built in 1685, the first of the eight bridges across the Vena Canal.

36 37 ■ Veneto On the wing The Po Delta

At the mouth of the Po These pages feature various pictures of the Po delta. Mesola Wood (right) emerges from the panorama of the land reclaimed from the malaria-ridden swamp. Opposite: the banks of the Po in the Polesine stretch where it runs above ground level.

metres at the base. The last portion, before arriving at the inlets at Chiog- gia, is a wild stretch of sand dunes, The Po Delta covers an enormous area (over 25,000 hectares) that includes some home to the village of Caroman. municipalities belonging to the provinces of Rovigo (north of the Po at Goro) In addition to the entrance of and Ferrara (to the South). The most of it, however, is inVeneto. Here the Po the port, one can see the at- flows into the Adriatic Sea with a vast estuary and various branches that were tractive city of Chioggia (45° also subject to deviations and work by the Republic of Venice between 1500 13.08’N 12° 16.44’E), one of and 1700. Subsequently, until the first half of the 1900, various reclamation The Reclaimed land the most important marine and fishing panorama operations were implemented. The morphological aspect of the current delta is Many areas of the terri- centres of the Adriatic, enclosed between the sea and the therefore the result of the natural action of the river waters and, maybe above tory to the north of the southern lagoon. all, that of artifical work. Between the branches of the Delta one can observe Po estuary have been reclaimed. The land- Towards the Po Delta and Romagna the intense network of canals. One landmark from the air is the clearly visible scape is characterised by Beyond Chioggia one comes to the delta area where the and controversial chimney of the electricity power station. The part regularly-arranged fields of the Delta to the north of this landmark is the richest in lagoons, lakes and within a geometrical Brenta, Adige and Po almost meet: another magical at- network of canals mosphere created by the merger of water and land. Our fisheries and recreates the environment of the lagoon of Venice. These fisheries landmark on the ground is the are enclosed to the north by the sandbanks of and Albarella and to the Romea E55 state road that fol- south by the more solitary and wilder sand dunes. The southern part is reclaimed lows the line of the ancient Ro- territory, enclosed between the Venice and the Goro branches of the Po, with the man Via Popillia that connected large lake formation of the Sacca di Scardovari. Altino to and . Above: part of the Polesine bank Where the farm fields start to Below: the mouth of the Po close to Porto Tolle Power Station. become vast and regular, one comes to the area of the reclama- tion performed to stem disease and overcome the difficulties that the bogs and swamps posed for local inhabitants. At the crossroads between the Romea state road and the Adige River, on the left of the road, one can see a vast wooded area, known as Bosco Nordio (45° 07.45’N 12° 15.97’E), a nature reserve that is protected because it occupies the most ancient system that is thought to date back more than 2000 years. Beyond the Adige, the true delta begins, with its val- leys and towns.

38 39 ■ Emilia Romagna ■ Emilia-Romagna A look back through history

A LOOK BACK THROUGH HISTORY to by the foundation in 1088 of the of Bologna, the first in Europe. Emilia-Romagna is bordered to the north by the River Po, to the west The Free Towns and south by the Apennines and to the east by the sea. For centuries During the phase of urban rebirth, after the year 1000, the main cities consti- the Po represented the main means communication and transport and a tuted the Free Towns - free from the payment of taxes - as military and eco- strategic axis across the plain. The Apennines were a protective nomic outposts for the control of the plateau and to counter the expansion of bulwark and their valleys a communication link with . The other cities. sea offered a window on maritime trade. Due to this territorial structure, Emilia-Romagna has and continues to play an important role as a fore- Castles front player in the development of both ancient and contemporary Italy. Another aspect of urban development in Medieval times was the construction, along the Apennine valleys, of numerous castles used as residences and The Villanovian culture and the Etruscans military premises for controlling the passes. Those The name of Villanova di Bologna is given to the culture that blossomed in located between Reggio and and inland the 9th century and preceded the Etruscan culture, whose main settlements from Rimini were both impressive and important. were Bologna (Felsina), Marzabotto and Spina, situated on an ancient branch of the Po. This is the Mount Bardone road that connects Fidenza to through Roman penetration the . From the 11th to the 12th century, this itinerary connected From the 3rd century B.C., ancient Roman , cities and agricultural - Northern Europe with the places of worship of Rome and . market towns appeared: Forlì (Forum Livii), Imola (Forum Cornelii), (Faventia), Bologna (Bononia), (Mutina), Reggio (Regium), Rimini (Ariminum) and Piacenza (Placentia) were joined by the via Emilia (187 B.C.) The establishment of the seigniories from which the Region takes its name. Roads and ports were built along the The pivot of the civil and intellectual reawakening in the era of Humanism coast. were the seigniories of the Visconti family in and Piacenza, the Da Po- lentas in Ravenna, the Malatesta in Rimini and the Estensi in Ferrara. Works of art blossomed, the countryside was The centuriatio radically transformed and reclamation system work commenced in order to recover Along the entire swamplands for agricultural use. length of the Via Emil- ia, one can observe traces of the an- Papal power cient Roman cen- In the late 16th century, turiatio system: the the entire region was subdivision of the directly or indirectly un- land into squares with der Papal control. The sides 710m long, which two subsequent centu- were assigned to soldiers ries saw the rise of the and local inhabitants of con- Dukedom of Modena quered areas and in part maintained as com- (Estensi) and the duke- munal property. dom of Parma and Piacenza, which passed from the Far- Ravenna as nese family to the The Roman Emperor divided the region Bourbons in 1731. into Aemilia and Flaminia. In the 5th century, Ra- venna became the capital of the Western Empire: Legend: the surrounding region was given the name of Ro- The unity of Italy mania, modern day Romagna. roman roads The region participated in the events of the centuriatio Risorgimento and was united with Italy in 1860. fortifications The tricolour flag, which was invented in 1797 in Fortifications , part of the , was With the decline of the , the cities built fortifications to protect free towns to become the flag of the new state of Italy. themselves from attacks. The vitality of the free city era is testified castles

42 43 ■ Emilia-Romagna Wining and dining

REGIONAL CUISINE Emilia-Romagna has a splendid culinary tradition, made of slow cook- Parmigiano Reggiano cheese ing and long seasoning; of fresh pasta, cheeses, cold meats and wines Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (Parmesan), which is defined as being simply “perfect” by many authors, is processed fol- that have conquered the world. What can one say of Parmigiano Reg- lowing rigid, controlled protocols. This cheese is made ex- giano, Culatello, Zampone, Cotechino, Balsamic vinegar and Sangio- clusively using equal measures of skimmed milk collected vese wine? Strong, full-bodied food and wine, with a taste of yester- fresh in the evening and whole milk in the morning. No pre- year, festivity and merriment, an ideal match for the population of this servatives, no refrigerators: it is processed throughout the day splendid region. Wherever one goes, on whatever table, rich or poor, starting at 5 in the morning and finishing in the evening with regardless of recommendations in tourism guides, there is always some- the branding of the cheeses and corresponding registration number. Seasoning thing to discover and savour. Sometimes that something is extremely then commences and lasts from 14 months to two, or even three, years. simple, such as a drop of balsamic vinegar and a sprinkle of Parmigiano Balsamic Vinegar on a marrow-filled raviolo. Entering a vinegar factory where balsamic vinegar is manufactured is a pleasant experience. The traditional vinegar made in Modena is ob- tained from white Trebbiano grapes that are boiled immediately after being harvested. The must is then left to age in a stack of pre- cious wooden barrels, placed on top of one another in creasing size order. The process is long and complicated and justifies the high cost.

Eels served a thousand different ways Culatello For anyone with a pen- This is typically produced in chant for eels, a trip to the Zibello area and the neighbour- Comacchio is a must, as ing municipalities in the Parma Po here dozens of restaurants Riviera. It is obtained from the most cook this delicacy in a thousand prestigious part of the pork thigh, different ways: alla cacciatora, namely the part around the fe- with grapes, fried, roasted, in sweet and sour sauce, mur, by eliminating the rind, marinated, stewed or stuffed. Comacchio’s fisheries are bone and fat. This results in a the home to eels that can reach weighs of 5kg. The best have a lean product, left to season white stripe on their belly. for one year in a moist en- vironment, which favours the development of the deli- The flavours of emilia-Romagna cate flavour. Only 8 munici- South of Ravenna, just a stone’s throw from the sea, the Ali palities can boast the DOP di Classe airfield is a good place to stop-off for an explora- brand. tion of regional food and wine that can be further extend- ed by travelling back up the Via Emilia, to discover wines such as Trebbiano, Pagadebit di Romagna, Albana, Vini dei Colli Porcini mushrooms from Borgotaro Bolognesi and original foods such as the Salama da Sugo from Ferrara Albereto, as well as being home to a runway, is also home to the famous porcini (a mixture of cured neck, bacon, lard, liver, tongue, aged red wine and spices), mushrooms that triumph on tables marked with the prestigious IGP (Protected fried gnocco (pastry fried in suet or oil accompanied by fresh cheeses and cold Geographical Indication) brand since 1993. The potential combinations are meats), the glorious piadina (a flat disk of dough cooked on a hotplate), pas- outstanding and the best period is from July to September. satelli (egg, bread and cheese that form large vermicelli cooked in broth) or the marvellous pasticcio alla Ferrarese.

The wines of Emilia-Romagna:

Bosco Eliceo Colli Bolognesi Colli Piacentini Fruit Pagadebit di Romagna di Sorbara Colli di Scandiano and On the flat lands, one encounters extensive fruit crops Canossa of the finest quality, primarily: strawberries, pears (es- Trebbiano di Romagna Cagnina di Romagna Lambrusco Grasparossa pecially between Modena and Ravenna), peaches (Fer- Albana di Romagna Colli di Imola rara and Forlì) and cherries (Modena). Lambrusco Reggiano Lambrusco Salamino di Colli di Parma Santa Croce di Romagna

44 45 ■ Emilia-Romagna Source: charts and text compiled by the Author using data and information provided by AIP Italia (airports) and Airspace geography Avioportolano (ULM runways). Warnings: the information contained herein is unofficial. Pilots are responsible for consulting the specific sections of AIP Italia for information on current regulations.

AIRSPACE GEOGRAPHY IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA Within the Zone “1” of VENNA – FORLI’ NORTH at Imola – Codrignano). Romagna CTR, VFR flights (casello autostradale Forlì Within the above sectors: The geography of the airspace in Emilia-Romagna is not as complex shall be conducted according sulla Bologna-Rimini/gate on - pilots shall maintain continu- and, at times, indecipherable as it is in Veneto and . to the procedures shown in the Bologna-Rimini motorway) ous listening watch on Forlì following pages. – FORLI’ and vice versa TWR frequencies, for traffic The main airport network is distributed along the Via Emilia , where we Pilots planning a VFR crossing d. For inbound and outbound: information; find three large CTRs at Ground Level: Piacenza (1, 2 and 3 class D), training Zone of Flying MELDOLA – FORLI’ and vice - Forlì TWR will only provide Schools (see para 8.2.3) are versa. To avoid interaction with Flight Information Service and Bologna (CTR1-C) and Romagna (CTR Romagna 1, Gnd at 1500 ft suggested to contact Forlì instrument procedures within Alerting Service. AGL class D). Below are the main regulations for VFR flying. TWR for traffic information. Romagna CTR, pilots shall: Special VFR flights to/from Forlì TWR will only provide a. If inbound: Forlì aerodrome Flight Information Service and 1. depending on the inbound Under conditions listed in AIP PIACENZA CTR 2. Sasso Marconi – S.Lazzaro in Casale See also RAC 4-4-4.5 Alerting Service. Rules and route to be followed, establish Italia - RAC 1, aircraft to/from Class “D” – Minerbio – S. Martino and Vertical limits: 1000 FT AGL. procedures shown in this and radio contact with Forlì Forlì may operate in special Special instructions for VFR vice versa VFR local school and training following paragraphs do not TWR before passing one of VFR: traffic The above-mentioned route flights may operate within the exempt pilots from observing the following points: LUGO a. along Forlì aerodrome entry/ CTR Piacenza crossing by VFR between S. Lazzaro and above zone. the standard separation from – COTIGNOLA – RAVEN- exit routes, with the exception traffic may be executed on Minerbio, may be affected by ROMAGNA CTR obstacles and other aircraft in NA – MELDOLA of the direct-route: specific clearance of Piacenza departures from RWY 12 Bolo- Class “C” and “D” flight. 2. be cleared by Forlì TWR to RAVENNA - FORLI’ APP only. Radio contact with gna. Traffic information may Controlling authority VFR flights to/from Forlì proceed to the aerodrome traf- NORTH – FORLI’ Piacenza APP shall be estab- be requested to Bologna TWR. Control Service is provided by aerodrome fic circuit, before leaving the b. Within Forlì ATZ provided lished on FREQ 123.925 / Therefore holdings over S. Romagna Approach Control See RAC 4-4-5.13 following points: FAENZA that a specific authorisation has 122.100 before entering Pia- Lazzaro and Minerbio may be Military Centre Within Romagna CTR Zone - MELDOLA – RAVENNA been issued by Forlì TWR. cenza CTR and shall be kept ATS Authority: Italian Air “1”, VFR flights to/from Forlì Aircraft may be requested to If not otherwise instructed, air- until crossing is completed. Force aerodrome shall follow one of hold over above points. In craft shall maintain continuous VFR traffic flying through the underlisted entry/ addition aircraft coming from radio contact with Forlì TWR. CTR shall follow the VFR Ravenna may be In the above mentioned cir- route and height shown in requested to cumstances, Forlì TWR, oper- RAC 4-1-1.19 (the height hold over ating as ATS Unit delegated by indicated is the maximum FORLI’ Romagna APP, is responsible usable); moreover it must NORTH; for the issuance of special VFR have TRANSPONDER on: clearances. MOD A – 7000. Aircraft VFR flights to/from Rimini may be requested to aerodrome See RAC 4-4-5.13 hold over the following Parma ATZ VFR reporting/hold- Within Romagna CTR Zone ing points: - “ALPHA” Piacenza CTR “1”, VFR flights to/from identified on CASTIONE Rimini aerodrome shall MARCHESI (see RAC 4-1- proceed along the following 1.19.1), holding shall be ex- entry/exit route, maintaining ecuted Eastward; - “BRAVO” an altitude not higher than identified on S.NICOLO’ (see Bologna CTR 1000 FT AGL: RAC 4-1-1.19.1), holding shall suggested. MERCATINO – ALBERETO be executed North- West. 3. Only for traffic from/to – RIMINI and vice versa BOLOGNA CTR Bologna AD: S. Martino – S. In addition pilots shall: CLASS “C” Pietro – C. Maggiore and vice a. If inbound, establish versa Special Controlling authority instructions radio contact with Rimini Control Service is provided by Casalecchio and Castel Mag- TWR before passing giore are the holding points to for VFR traffic Bologna Approach Control General information MERCATINO. Rules for VFR traffic request Bologna TWR clear- exit routes, Clearance to join aero- ance to join aerodrome traffic Before entering CTR, VFR Before entering CTR, VFR flights shall request clearance maintaining drome traffic pattern shall flights shall request clearance pattern: ALTITUDES: not an altitude not be requested before leaving higher than 1000 FT AGL to APP/TWR, specifying entry Romagna CTR to APP/TWR, specifying entry point, routing and level/alti- higher than 1000 ALBERETO. point, routing and level/alti- 4.G. Marconi airport has a FT AGL: a. For Whenever necessary Rimini standard circuit for RWY 12 tude requested. ATC Units tude requested. may approve the request or inbound aircraft only: TWR may request VFR flights and a non-standard circuit onventional signs b. if outbound: ATC Unit may approve the modify the clearance (holding C : RAVENNA to hold over ALBERETO. for RWY – COTIGNO- maintain radio contact b. If outbound, maintain radio request or modify the clearance outside CTR or over conven- Leisure airfields (holding outside CTR or over 30. LEVEL: not above 1000 LA – FAENZA with Forlì TWR until crossing contact with Rimini TWR un- FT AGL Bologna TWR may ient visual reporting points) Airstrips marked the Romagna CTR Zone “1” convenient visual reporting or assign routing/level as (or LUGO til passing over MERCATINO. assign different circuits to Military airports exit points: CASTROCARO points) or assign routing/level appropriate or clear the flight – FAENZA) In addition to the procedures those specified, according to – FORLI’ – FAENZA – MELDOLA shown above, VFR flights shall: at own discretion or clear the on published VFR routes. (See Civilian airports flight on following published meteorological and present b. For outbound – RAVENNA a. If coming from or bound RAC 4-4-5.13) Mixed airports VFR routes (See also RAC traffic conditions. aircraft only: “Forlì” training Zone to North and West follow the Aeroclub Bologna training Aircraft flying below the CTR Runways without There are two sectors desig- 4- 4-4.5): “2” Zone South of the line orientation FORLI’ – CAS- entry/exit route: area TROCARO nated to the training activities FAENZA – CASTROCARO 1. cross-road A1/A22 joining: IMOLA - BRISI- C.T.R.: lower Classification: “G” GND limit of the flying schools based at – Spilamberto (QDR 254° GHELLA – CASTROCARO – FAENZA – MELDOLA – PIETRA- BOA NDB) – Casalecchio Lateral limits: area bounded A.T.Z. or restricted – LUGO (o/or Forlì aerodrome: Brisighella MURA – MERCATINO by line joining the following – MELDOLA – PIETRAMU- areas (Brisighella - Castrocaro (QDR 149° BOA NDB) – S. RA – shall COTIGNOLA) – ALBERETO Lazzaro (QDR 123° BOA places: S. Pietro in Casale Zones P, D or R c. Under specific - Faenza – Castel Bolognese) and vice versa at an altitude – Cento – Sala Bolognese maintain an altitude not higher and Imola (Brisighella – Cas- NDB) or Sasso Marconi and than 1000 FT AGL. Forlì clearance not higher than 1000 FT AGL. vice versa – Castel Maggiore – S. Pietro No-fly zones only: RA- telnuovo – motorway turn-off 1. when inbound, before

46 47 ■ Emilia Romagna On the wing

behind the airspace: leisure pilots must therefore pay the utmost attention not to interfere with VFR traffic that in most cases flies at an altitude of 1000 ft., but it may, however, be encountered at lower altitudes. Along the Via Emilia there are two vast tactical areas for low altitude flying (Low Flying Air Space – AT Emilia and AT Nord) where military craft perform exercises at 500 ft, usually on weekdays

The technical stops passing the VFR holding point CASTROCARO – FAENZA. Altavillino between 500 and FAENZA, establish radio b. If coming from or bound to 1500 FT AGL. Of the technical stops most fre- contact with Forlì TWR in East and South-East, follow the Above the town of Bronzo quently used, the most popu- order to be cleared to cross route: () – FOSSOM- (3.5km north of Sassocorvato) lar for those in transit to and Forlì ATZ via CASTROCARO BRONE – MERCATINO there is an acrobatic flight area – MELDOLA. – ALBERETO – RIMINI and of 3NM in diameter. from Tuscany is that at Ozzano The radio contact with Forlì vice versa at an altitude not VFR flights intending to oper- dell’Emilia (Aerdelta – BO05-8) TWR shall be maintained as higher than 1000 FT AGL. ate within ATZ shall contact , which is closed on Mondays. far as MELDOLA Aeroclub Rimini training Parma AFIS on frequency 2. when outbound, before area (SASSOFELTRIO) 118.450 Mhz before overfly- It is the only Italian airfield with passing the VFR holding point VTR training activities of ing/crossing departure/ap- an automatic fuel dispenser (pro- MELDOLA, establish radio Aeroclub Rimini take place proach slopes or entering viding unleaded petrol for Rotax 912s and Avio 100LL), Air shows contact with Forlì TWR in within the area within the aerodrome traffic circuit in Picture of the event at order to be cleared to cross triangle between order to receive pertinent and which can be purchased using a debit card. Slightly fur- Ozzano (held in June). Forlì ATZ and proceed via airport-Corbordolo-Monte available information. ther north one comes to Molinella (Bologna – BO09-10), which is always open and has a fully-equipped aircraft The network of airports and airfields technical maintenance and assistance centre. The Prov- Total number Total length Average length ince of Modena is home to the Camposanto (Le Libel-

35 15 25.000 1.600 lule – MO02-4) airfield, with a production and assistance 12 1.400 20.000 1.200 The aviation theme park 15.000 1.000 At Rimini, on the super highway for the Republic of San Marino, just 1 km Airports 800 2 10.000 600 from this tiny state, an 80,000 m hill is home to a singular theme park dedi- 400 cated to aviation. The park boasts Airstrips 5.000 200 40 aircraft, all protagonists of post Airfields 0 0 -war aviation: Mig 23, Phantom, data Most of the airports and airfields are located along the Via F-104, Scud, MB339 and many Compiled by the more. It also contains the Museum Author using Aviopor- Emilia. On this important road one finds all the main air- tolano Italia - 6th na- ports (Rimini, Cervia, Ravenna, Forlì, Bologna, Modena, of Aviation that offers an excellent tional Census of Italian and complete overview of modern Light Aviation data. Reggio, Parma and Piacenza) and approximately half of the ULM airfields and airstrips. Some of these are established aviation with a pathway that guides the visitor through past and present, showcasing accessories, photographs and objects. There is also a catering outlet that provides packed lunches and breakfasts (menu subject to booking only). The Park also has a helipad and those arriving by plane, may land at either Rimini or San Marino airports. The Aviation Park is open everyday from 9.00 am to 7.00 pm (opening hours are extended in the summer- time). Aviation Theme Park – Super- strada Rimini-San Marino km 8.5 – Via S. Aquilina, 58 – Rimini. Tel.: 0541 756696 fax.: 0541 905148. Automatic fuel pump e-mail: [email protected] on the Aerdelta runway web: www.museoaviazione.net at Ozzano Emilia

48 49 ■ Emilia Romagna On the wing

Airshows Every year two important airshows are organised in Emilia, one at Ozzano Emilia in June, the other at Carpi in September.

Goro to the saltworks at Cervia. I high- At the mouth of ly recommend a deviation to pass the Po The exploration of the through this area. Where the mouth of the Po is a waters of the Po mingle thrilling experience. workshop close to the runway. Along the coast, one can with those of the Adriatic, the Left, the lighthouse at land at the nice airfield ofAli di Classe (Ravenna – RA03- the mouth of the Goro action of the tides develops and the fresh Po. Right, the itiner- 7), where there is almost always activity and even assistance water attempting to flow out is countered ary described in this in the afternoons. by the waves of the sea that prevent them from doing so. section. Air shows The result are the slivers of wild beach, hints of colours Every year in Emilia-Romagna two air shows of national on the surface of the sea, shades of sand of the surfacing interest are organised. The first is “Cielo e Volo” at the Oz- banks. I recommend zano Emilia airfield, on the first weekend in June. Here following the line of companies and pilots come together for a flying event that the coast where the Po marks the beginning of the season. For those who wish branches and into to explore Italy’s aeronautical news in general, it is an op- the sea and flying along portunity not to be missed. The second event takes place at the banks to Codigoro Carpi Airport, where on the fist Sunday of September each (Valle Gaffaro FE03-9). year, Club di Aviazione Popolare members come together Here there is a conven- to present their home-made aircraft and to compete for the ient, handy to use and Business well-kept runway on left, runway 34 at Valle best plane and the best construction. Gaffaro. To the side, the the border with the 1000 hectare Mesola Wood Nature Mesola Wood. Above, Along the Ferrara Lidos Reserve inside the Po Delta Park that is representative of mussel nets and farms. The border between Veneto and Emilia follows the south- the flora that probably covered much of the Padania Pla- ern most branch of the Po Delta, known as the Goro Po. teau in ancient times. The wood and the runway overlook Immediately beyond this branch, one enters the Province Bertuzzi fishery Lido di Volano The Goro Po the and , which can be The mouth of the Po of Ferrara and the Regional Park of the Po Delta, which seen immediately after takeoff from runway 16, thus of- where the Goro Po covers a surface of over 53,000 hectares, stretching from fering pilots a panorama of exceptional beauty, made of branches off.

Delta beaches The Po Delta beaches and the Ferrara coast are characterised by the presence of sandy dunes that can be reached by paths and narrow roads.

50 51 Where the water meets the land The distinguishing feature of the Delta and lagoon environment is the precarious and unstable equilibrium of the relationship between water and land. Where they merge, the embrace between these two elements creates a blend of colours and shapes that, when seen as a vast, single whole, take on the appearance of a great work of art. The photograph shown here was taken from the tip of the bank at Sacca di Goro looking towards Lido di Volano (small photo below). In Emilia-Romagna, the Po Delta Park covers some 52,000 hectares. The govern- ing Authority has promoted and created an International Association of Delta parks “Delta Chiama Delta”. The Delta area is particularly rich in both flora and fauna. It is thought to contain over 1000 plant species and some 300 different species of bird, of which 146 are nesters and 151 winter there. The Park also in- cludes the Comacchio fisheries and the saltwords at Cervia, as well as numerous pine forests and swamps.

52 53 ■ Emilia Romagna On the wing

The city of salt and eels Comacchio A beautiful city, the Immediately beyond the super highway that cuts through highlight of the Po Del- these reclamation territories and connects Ferrara to Porto ta Park. Above, Corso Garibaldi, entangled in a web of man-made canals, is a Mazzini that crosses the city from east to west. true treasure: the city of Comacchio (44° 41.39’N 12° Centre, the area of the 10.58’E), that gives its name to the large fisheries that lie saltworks, to the south a little further south. Comacchio is a truly beautiful city, of the city, bwteen Lido di Spina and Lido degli ancient, criss-crossed by canals that penetrate it, like a Estensi. smaller Venice. However, despite the resemblance between the two cities, historically relations with the Lagoon City were never good, as Venice did not appreciate the fact that the salt produced here (known at the time as “white ”, because of its value) was not under its control, but that of the first and the D’Este dukes later. What remains of the old saltworks at Comacchio can be seen to the south of the town between Lido di Spina and Lido degli Estensi. Comacchio is the headquarters of the Consortium that man- The Bertuzzi Fishery reflections, light effects and water gardens. From the Valle and Lido di Volano Gaffaro airfield one can also set out on a pleasant explora- ages the Po Delta Regional As one takes off from tion of places that offer natural and cultural surprises of Park (Via Cavour, 11 - 44022 runway 16 of Gaffaro Comacchio (FE) Tel: 0533 Valley, one sees Bertuzzi exceptional value, starting from the Abbey of Pomposa fishery, the mouth of (44° 50.12’N 12° 10.69’E), just 3 km from the airfield as 314003 Fax: 0533 318007 the Po at Volano and the crow flies and 5.5 km by road. The abbey is extremely e-mail: [email protected]; Lido di Volano on the Website: www.parcodeltapo.it; coast. Right, curious old, founded by the Ben- spatial organisation on edictines probably in the Surface: 53.653; Province: Fer- the banks of the river. 6th century and is located rara, Ravenna; Incorporation: on the strada Romea - the 1988). ancient Roman Via Pop- One can fly over Comacchio’s fisheries on the west, along the Pomposa Abbey illia - along the pathway Close to the Valle Gaf- that medieval border between the lagoon and faro runway, the Abbey followed to reach Rome. the vast reclamation territories of Pomposa that stretch inland, or to the east along the sandbanks that on the Romea The 50 metres-high bell- state road. tower, which was built in 1063, reaches towards the sky separate the inner valle from the sea. This latter route is undoubtedly the most interesting. One must keep to the Detail of the Maggiore and the structure astounds the observer with its austere canal that crosses the simplicity. On the other side of the state road, in the re- right of the strada Romea (on the lagoon side) because along city in a north-south claimed territory of the Volta Valley and within the mu- the submerged sandbanks of the Lidos, D10 – Foci del direction. nicipality of Codigoro, is another convenient runway , shooting into the open sea is practised. On the left (Azienda Contini FE04-7), 700 metres long. of the Strada Romea one can see Lido degli Estensi (44° 39.76’N 12° 14.52’E) and Lido di Spina (44° 39.11’N 12° 14.78’E) with the constructions that nestle be- tween the precious wetlands, the canals, the old and new water systems, crop fields reclaimed from

54 55 Trepponti Comacchio: an aerial view of the symbol of the city, the Bridge with five flights of stairs that joins in a single solution the banks of as many canals that all converge in a single point. The rise is built in Istrian stone and was erected in 1638, to a project by architect Luca Danese.

56 57 the water in a land- scape that would be impossible to imagine when travelling by road.

Towards the pinewoods of the Ravenna coast Comacchio’s fisheries border to the south with the River Reno, beyond which another vast reclamation territory opens up. Beyond this one comes to the first large green area of the San Vitale pinewood: an area protected due to the presence of domestic pines, with their characteristic wide foliage. These trees were in- troduced by the Emperor to provide the timber needed by the shipyards of the port of Classe, which once extended along the coast and were pro- tected by the Mon- archs who owned them. They are now dumb witnesses of the destruction that The Comacchio Fisheries followed the sale of Italy’s second largest lagoon complex, after that of Venice, covers some 11,000 these areas to pri- hectares. This is the home of the eels that take refuge here to grow and that, vate subjects in the having reached maturity, return to the sea to reproduce. The eels are caught in 1800s. The pinewood, on the shore side, borders the sin- traps called “lavorieri”, arrow shaped contraptions visible from the air. The traps gular lagoon of Porto Corsini (44° 29.80’N 12 16.50’E), channel the fish into forced passages and catch them in two stages. The first bar- which is made clearly visible by the presence of a 2.5 km rier catches all the fish, except the eels, which remain trapped when they reach long outer breakwater and a series of artificial canals that the second barrier with its smaller mesh. The area is also characterised by other converge in a funnel-type formation. This system was con- fishing-related constructions, including watchtower stations for identifying any structed in order to regulate the flow of the tides, exploit fraudulent fishing: in the past it was common for unauthorised fishermen to the fishing (as demonstrated by the dozens of scales found break the banks of the fisheries to release the eels and catch them again with along the banks of these canals) and protect the inner port. nearby nets. South of Comacchio one comes to the saltwork area that covers 600 South west of Porto Corsini, one should note the presence of hectares in a tangle of canals, locks, plants and decanting tanks that were used to the P89 (Ravenna Industrial Estate) and Ravenna airport. produce salt until 1984. The characteristic saltiness of the waters and an abun- The city of the Byzantines dance of a particular microorganism that constitutes the preferred diet of Pink Ravenna is worth a stop and a visit. It was a port for the Flamingoes makes this a perfect natural habitat for these splendid birds. Roman fleet in Augustus’ time, capital of the Western Ro- man Empire under Theodore in 402 AD, Byzantine under Justinian and always at the centre of politi- cal and commer-

Between woods and canals Above: the picturesque canal that runs from Por- to Corsini to Ravenna. Centre: part of the outer breakwater of Porto Corsini. Right: a native pine wood and, left the water effects between the sea and lagoon along the Ferrara Lidos.

58 59 ■ Emilia Romagna On the wing

The Saltworks at Cervia Cervia Left: Cervia marina. Remaining along the vertical of the strada Romea, which Above: the centre of the cial interests of the various potentates of provides the clearest and most constant reference on the saltwork area, where Italy. Each political change took Ravenna ground for our itinerary, one soon comes to Milano the initial settlement Marittima of the city was located to higher splendours, of which consistent, (44° 16.49’N 12° 21.24’E) , part of the impor- and later abandoned. well-conserved and precious traces still re- tant holiday resort of Cervia (44° 15.45’N 12° 21.09’E), A canal leads from the main in the city’s buildings, structural lay- which was one of the most historically important cities of saltworks to the sea the Riviera, due to its intense production of salt, an ele- (below) along which out, monuments, churches with their pre- the “Salt Warehouse” cious Byzantine and in the works of ment of essential importance to the economy. One comes complex lies, now art that combine the styles of two thousand to the old saltworks after just a few minutes of flight, soon home to the Museum after leaving Lido di Classe. The salt production tanks are of the “Saline Civilisa- years of history. tion” (below centre). Light aircraft may fly along the coast or in- clearly visible and arranged in a semi-circle around the end land to reach the nearby airfield of Classe of the canal that leads to the sea. Curiously, this part, lo- (Ali di Classe RA03-7). The runway lies 11 cated in the centre of the saltwork area, is the only part kilometres south east of Ravenna, two kilo- where the ground is dry and is used for arable farming; metres from the beach and close to a series of restaurants within walking distance. Bicy- cles are kindly made available for visitors to borrow. By bicycle, one can visit the mouth of the River Bevano and the wetlands of the Ravenna Ortazzo and the Ortazzino. On the coastal side of the Detail of Piazza del Mouth of the Bevano Popolo with the city are ancient dunes that reflect how hall and, opposite, the the Ravenna coast must have been before building began. clock tower. Below: Behind the dunes lies the vast Classe pinewood, which the Cathedral erected in the 1700s with Ba- stretches all the way to Cervia. The whole area is particu- roque façade and round larly important because it is characterised by a natural en- dating from vironment that is largely intact, whereas in other areas of the 10th century. the coast it has been largely destroyed, and it also provides shelter and a place to winter for many species of migrating Ravenna Airport birds. Ravenna airport has been operative for over 50 years. It has a 1200m runway, Mouth of River Bevano fuel, hangar and terminal facilities with a bar selling light refreshments. From Above and below the Tuesday to , in order for the fire-prevention service to be activated, non- mouths of the River resident aircraft must apply for landing 48 hours in advance, by sending a fax to Bevano that can be seen immediately after take- 0544 497804 for category 1 craft and 0544 497899 for categories 2 and 3. The off from Ali di Classe Flying Club offices are open from Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 4.30 p.m. Saturdays from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm Aero club Ravenna “F. Baracca” - Aeroporto “La Spreta” - Via Dismano, 160 – Ravenna - e-mail: aeroclubravenna@ racine.ra.it - Website: www.aeroclubravenna,it. Tel: 0544 497874 fax: 0544 497804.

60 61 White gold The pictures on these pages show the active salt production tanks at Cervia. Scholars believe that salt production dates from Etruscan times. It would appear that the etymology of the current denomination of the city derives from the word “Acervi”, used to indicate the “Piles of Salt”. Salt production is an ancient and complex art, which is gradually disappearing and that consists, here and through- out much of the Mediterranean basin, in extracting sodium chloride from sea water for consumption. One litre of water contains approximately 40g of salt, however, other salts are also present and must be eliminated to prevent unpleas- ant flavours and odours. This requires the skill of the saltworker, which consists in using the energy of the sun, wind and rain to manage the evaporation process and take the water to the right degree of ripeness; namely the correct content of salt crystals. In order to control the degree of salinity, a number of tanks are set up in which fresh and salt waters are mixed by the alternating action of mills, or through connecting canals. This is why saltworks are usually part of a chessboard type landscape, with different coloured waters due to the varying concentration of salt crystals.

62 63 ■ Emilia Romagna On the wing

which demonstrates how the orig- inal historical nucleus of the city of Cervia (now nothing more than a small church remains The romagna riviera Rimini, above, with of it) once lay in the centre of the saltworks, her hotels, beach and before developing towards the sea between the entertainments, is the late 1600s and the 1700s to escape from symbol of the famous Romagna Riviera. the plague of malaria. The Romagna Riviera From Cervia onwards, the serenity sug- The Marecchia Valley When heading inland gested by the natural environments have spurred his legionaries having passed the one can follow the encountered thus far ceases and is Rubicone, the Maltesian Temple and, last but suggestive, interesting replaced by the icons of seaside not least, the Grand Hotel Rimini, the symbol valley of the River holiday making. This is the of Rimini’s Dolce Vita. In addition to being a Marecchia. heart of the famous holiday resort, Rimini is also a large city with a Romagna Riviera, network of European connections, thanks also characterised by the his- to the presence of its international “Federico torical holiday facilities that were established be- Fellini” airport (LIPR – RN01-29). tween the end of the 1800s and the early 1900s, the nightlife, the hotels, the entertainment and Along the via Emilia the Fellinian “Amaracord”. It is the coast of At Rimini, the SS16 (the ancient Via Popil- Cesenatico, Bellaria - Igea Marittima, Ric- lia), the SS9 (Via Emilia), the SS258, which cione, and Rimini: cities founded by runs along the Marecchia Valley, and the A14 the Romans along the old Via Popillia because of motorway converge. From Rimini, one may its favourable geographic position and that have continue along the coast to the south, or, as now fused to form a single urban system, that we did, to the inland part of the area, follow- develops, uninterrupted, for some 45 kilometres ing the Marecchia Valley along the River and between the coast and the Adriatica state road. the history that accompanies it. Rimini is also Of these, Rimini is the city-emblem of the Ro- the point of confluence of the Via Emilia, magna Riviera with its legacy of history, culture which crosses the entire region and therefore and tourism: the old bridge built by Tiberius, determined, since ancient times, its transport the ancient forum where Caesar is thought to and territorial layouts. The Via Emilia is also an excellent ground level landmark for a fly-

Rimini Airport ing itinerary of great interest that involves all The Via Emilia Rimini’s “Federico Fellini” Airport lies 8 km south east of the city centre the region’s main cities. At Ozzano Emilia, immediately The Via Emilia crosses and just 2 km from the coast, it has a 3 km long, tarmacked runway and is south east of Bologna, it is common for those headed for the entire region. It Tuscany to stop to refuel, before passing the Apennines was founded by the managed by Aeradria spa (via Flaminia, 409 47831 Miramare di Rimini, tel. Romans, who also built 0541 715711 fax 0541 715800 e-mail: aeradria@ along the route of the and the Bologna-Florence the cities that flank riminiairport.com). Services: lighting system 13/31 motorway. Along this road there are two medium length the road (above the runways that can be used at Barberino del : Gal- city of Bologna). In Calvert path 1st category 900 m, air-traffic control the spring, the Padania App 118.15; towerTWR 119.10, 121.60 (clearance liano (FI02-7) and (FI03-8 Collina). Plain appears as a great delivery only); Charlie RM1 131.85 Mhz (round fre- chessboard of culti- The Roman Cities quency) system ILS 1, VOR/TAC. Telephone vated fields, croseed in Following the via Emilia from Rimini to Piacenza is an end- all directions by roads contacts: ARO 0541 719416 AD Operator 0541 less encounter of history and artistic treasures, in a pano- and dotted with towns 715820 Ad Administration 0541 719111 DCA of- rama of hills on one side and flatlands on the other, crossed and remote houses. fice 0541 373244, Aeradria spa 0541 715711. by the rivers that from the summit of the Apennines de- scend rapidly towards the valley and into the Po. Rivers

64 65 The Gessi Bolognesi e Calanchi dell’Abbadessa Regional Park If from Ozzano Emilia one heads inland towards the Apennines, in the direction of Florence, one flies over the Regional Park of the Gessi Bolognesi e Calanchi dell’Abbadessa, observing, along the way, a scene of extraordinary, raw beauty. A territory marked by erosions, ravines, the white of the chalk, the green of the grass, woods and shrubs whose roots grip the deepest cuts of the rock where the soil gathers and offers shelter. It is crossed by roads with hairpin bends and by descending the most curious roads, amidst the ruins of and abbeys, one encounters bent patterns, caves and cultivated fields. A spectacle that the clear skies of the best of days makes all the more enjoyable. Managing authority: Consortium formed by four municipalities: by the Mountain Municipalities of the and Valleys and the . Main offices: “Casa Fantini” Park Centre, Via Jussi, 171 - 40030 Farneto - (BO). Tel. 051 6254811 Fax: 051 6254521 e-mail: info@parcogessibolog- nesi.it. Surface area: 4,815.87 hectares. Province: Bologna. Founded: 1988

66 67 ■ Emilia Romagna On the wing

beautiful, green, lush valley overlooked by mighty, austere- looking castles and churches. The waters of the Marecchia run through a hilly land- scape, they split into a thousand smaller Verucchio is one of the streams and wide frst towns that one en- loops before joining counters in the Marec- together once again chia Valley. The Rocca del Sasso (left and The Marecchia and concentrating above) that overlooks The Marecchia has a in the deep cuts in the town and the valley varied course: in the the earth and rock, is a real beauty. Imme- photograph the stretch bathing the his- diately below the castle in which it runs deep that since ancient times have decreed the wealth of this area one comes to Piazza in the ground, in a torical places of the Malatesta surrounded groove rich in jumps where the earliest settlers founded the nuclei of today’s cit- Malatesta family that by important buildings and small waterfalls. ies. From Rimini, one comes to Cesena (44° 08.20’N 12° dictated the law in from the 17th and 18th Downstream, it widens 14.35’E), Forlì (44° 13.00’N 12° 02.57’E), Faenza (44° Romagna, for three centuries on a vaster bed and Imola surface. 17.16’N 11° 52.52’E), (44° 21.12’N 11° 42.50’E), hundred years, from and Bologna (44° 29.52’N 11° 20.23’E). Then Modena 1200 to 1500, pro- (44° 38.49’N 10° 55.31’E), Reggio (44° 41.50’N 10° tected by a powerful, 37.52’E), Parma (44° 48.02’N 10°19.43’E) and Piacenza The Itinerary mighty defence system. We encounter the first example at Above right: 3D (45° 03.08’N 09° 41.33’E). All of these cities are located in Sant’Arcangelo di Romagna, in the centre of which lies reconstruction of the strategic positions at the outlet of the Apennine valleys that one of the earliest fortified castles. Slightly further south Tuscany - Emilia-Ro- the Romans developed, connected to one another by the magna Apennines in is a large airfield, located on the banks of the Marecchia at the stretch covered in Via Emilia and made economically solid. Cities that were Sant’Arcangelo di Romagna (RN02-4), a handy stopping our itinerary controlled by the various powerful families during the era place. A few kilometres further south, on the border with of the Free Towns and the Seigniories that in turn created the Marche region, one comes to the town of Verucchio fortified outposts towards the Po in order to control the (43° 58.57’N 12° 25.20’E) where the Malatestas had their flatlands, and castles in strategic points of the valleys. The Our Lady of headquarters in the impressive Rocca del Sasso that domi- Saiano sanctuary nates the entire valley. Immediately opposite Verucchio In the valley of the Malatestas Built on a rocky spur, lies Torriana (43° 59.03’N 12° 23.10’E) and further south right next to the Marecchia, stands the From Rimini our itinerary continues inland following still, Montebello. Up high, on the left, towers Mount Ti- Torriana Sanctuary of Our Lady the Marecchia Valley and the river of the same name: a tan, home to the Republic of San Marino. The ancient hamlet of of Saiano. Torriana, once property Beyond Verucchio, the Marecchia continues at length in of the Malatesta family the Marche Region. One can continue to follow it by pass- is built on a peak. Its ing the ; I would recommend keeping to the original name was right of the fascinating (where the river Scorticata and its de- fensive system includes rises), flying over the mountain barrier east of the E45 su- fortresses throughout per highway staying above the peaks (1000/1200 m), be- the valley. fore commencing the Tuscan part of our itinerary: on Lake Montedoglio (43° 35’ 12° 03’) in the Tiber Valley. The first stop in Tuscany is San Sepolcro (Palazzolo Avio AR01-8).

68 69 ■ Tuscany ■ Tuscany A look back in history

A LOOK BACK IN HISTORY Florence It is thought that two thirds of the world’s artistic heritage is in Italy The free cities succeeded in maintaining their and equally authoritative estimates set the concentration of this legacy autonomy from the Empire and the Papacy in Tuscany alone at 40%. It is undoubtedly a region with a marvellous, and led to the institution of Seigniories, where- by city governance was assigned to a powerful unique history, where brilliant minds and met and rivalled one nobleman and his family. Florence dominated another to reach the highest pinnacles of art, architecture and culture, them all and succeeded in unifying much of leaving behind testimonies that the Tuscany under Medici rule (1434). The power entire world envies. and splendour of Florence is symbolised by the church of St. Mary of the Flower and the pioneering construction of its dome designed by Brunelleschi (1420).

The Renaissance (14th - 16th centuries) The Etruscan civilisation Around 1000 BC, the region was Plentiful economic resources allowed the transformation of inhabited by the Villanovian peo- former feudal residences into elegant villas and Lawrence ples (from Villanova, near Bologna). the Magnificent ordered Sangallo to build him a country These populations are thought to have residence, Villa di Poggio, at Cajano (1485). Set in the vast been the forefathers of the Etruscans, rural estate, the complex combines princely ostentation whose most important settlements, name- with astute economic investment. Florentine artists ly , , , flourished impose their aesthetic rules. in the eighth century before Christ. The Etruscans knew how to work metal and used From the Medicis to the Lorena the mines on the island of Elba and the metal- family bearing hills. In 1737, with the disappearance of the Medici , the Grand Roman Rule Dukedom of Tuscany was inher- The last Etruscan city fell to the Roman in 265 BC ited by the Lorena family, which after almost two centuries of battles. In 241 BC, the held power until 1859, with the Via Aurelia connected Vada Volaterrana (now Vada) exclusion of the brief Napoleonic with Rome, thus boosting the trading activities of the period. Lorena policy entailed nu- Tyrrhenian ports. merous public works on the territory, includ- ing the reclamation of the Chiana Valley and The fall of Rome the exploitation of the geothermal waters of In the 5th and 6th centuries, a number of barbarian peo- Montecatini. ples came to the region. In 568, it was conquered by the Longobards, who kept control for two centuries. Forti- Florence as capital fied castles and military outposts were erected. Florence was the capital of the from 1865 to 1870. The city centre was modernised, The Free Cities whole districts were destroyed to make way for Piazza Free cities were first established in the 11th century, then grew della Repubblica and the façade of the cathedral was and became more fortified. There period was characterised by completed. Pitti Palace became the residence of King Vit- great economic recovery; churches and monasteries were built torio Emanuele II. throughout the Region and reclamation work started on the dis- ease-ridden marsh lands. 20th Century The process of continued. Large areas of the Apennines were deserted by their inhabitants and subsequently In the 12th century, Pisa reached its Golden Age as a Marine Republic and recovered, above all by British investors. During the War, the re- challenged Genoa for control of the sea: next gion was bombed by the to the Cathedral, construction work began on Legend: allied forces and in 1966, Florence was hit by the the and the famous Tower, to create roman roads most devastating flood the splendid complex of . centuriatio Pisa’s economic decline commenced in 1284, in its history. Important following its defeat in battle by Genoa, and fortifications productive sectors devel- oped and acquired fore- continued under Florentine rule. free Towns front positions on the castles international market.

72 73 ■ Tuscany Wining and Dining

REGIONAL CUISINE Cooking with roast suckling pig Tuscany offers infinite yet simple, authen- Porchetta, as roast suckling pig is known, is practically an institu- tically traditional culinary possibilities, tion in Arezzo (and many other parts of Tuscany) and the same dominated by stable flavours that are method of cooking is also used for duck, chicken and not polluted by false experiments. kid. Another exquisite dish is Scottiglia (a stew containing various types of with herbs and seasoning). All of the “No Global” cuisine, in other words. above are ideally accompanied by a full-bodied red wine. If I were to have a choice of the most common dishes, I would opt for an Game appetiser of panzanella (stale bread Hunting is a declining tradition, but here in Tusca- seasoned with oil, vinegar and assorted ny they still know how to prepare good game. From vegetables: , onion and cucum- pappardelle in hare sauce that can be found almost ber). As a winter starter, I would choose anywhere, to uccelletti alla (a dish Ribollita (minestrone of and black that is famous above all in the area), pheasant and cabbage) - whose leaves have been subject to woodcock. Boar is common: it a hard frost, and then cooked in the oven). In is one of the most difficult dishes the summer, I would choose Pappa al Pomodoro to prepare from a technical stand- (bread, broth and tomatoes cooked with and point and requires lengthy ripen- basil and dressed with raw oil). As a main course ing and marinating. I would choose a grilled T-bone steak (a whole loin!), lightly charred on the grill and drizzled From To Acquapazza with olive oil, accompanied by a glass (or more) of 1995 Cacciucco in Leghorn, Acquapazza in Versiglia, both are paupers’ dishes. . One could ask for nothing more. The former is a mixed fish soup served with oil, herbs and the inevitable piece of A wine for every runway bread and is absolutely delicious when ac- Tuscany is considered by many authoritative wine companied by a good red wine. The latter experts to be Italy’s best wine-producing region. is a mixture of (or other common The art is an ancient one, aided by the qual- fish), vegetables, garlic, olive oil and bread ity of the soil, favourable climate and ideal boiled in water. orography. In the Tuscan hills, Sangio- vese (thought to have been known by the Olive oil Etruscans), Canaiolo, Trebbiano Toscano, and Tuscan olive oil is vines create patterns characterised by the same perfection as famous the world over the wines they make. Despite being geographically so near, Tus- and accompanies all cany’s wines are paired with the towns they are produced in: Chianti dei Colli, regional dishes. In many Brunello and Moscatello di , Barco Reale di , Nobile di villages, it is still possible to , Vernaccia di San Giminiano, Bianco di , Candia dei see the old millstones and Colli Apuani and Monteregio di Marittima. In short, there is a wine for methods used to press the every location and every runway. See map for further details. . Tuscan wines Chianina and Pici Candia dei Colli Apuani Brunello di Montalci- Ansonica no - di Montal- dell’Argentario The Chianina is one of the most important Colli Lucchesi cino - Moscadello breeds of and is bred in the Chiana Chianti Valley. The famous “Fiorentina” steak should Elba Chianti Colli Senesi Carmignano be Chianina beef, cut at least 4cm thick and Barco Reale di Chianti classico cooked over a high flame for just a few minutes Chianti Colline Pisane Carmignano del Chianti classico to prevent losing its juices and to maintain its Chianti Montalbano Val di Cornia tenderness. Chianti Montecucco Pici are de rigeur and must be accompanied Colli Fiorentini Montecarlo by at least one glass of Rosso di Montalcino. Chianti Vino Nobile di Monte- The Chiana Valley is also home to an excellent Morellino di pulciano Bianco Pisano di Rosso di Montepul- white wine, Bianco Vergine della Val di Chiana, San Torpè Bianco di Pitigliano ciano once thought to possess medicinal properties. Vernaccia di Parrina Monteregio di Massa San Giminiano Marittima

74 75 ■ Tuscany Source: charts and text compiled by the Author using data and information provided by AIP Italia (airports) and Airspace geography Avioportolano (ULM runways). Warnings: the information contained herein is unofficial. Pilots are responsible for consulting the specific sections of AIP Italia for information on current regulations.

AIRSPACE GEOGRAPHY IN TUSCANY VFR holding point : GAL- FT AGL to provide their own separa- CIANA 1000 FT AGL; c) – LU- tion from other traffic and In Tuscany there are three vast areas controlled by the airports of b) – BAR- CIGNANO – 1 NM WEST obstacles. Pisa, Florence and Grosseto: CTR Grosseto 1 (GND/3000 ft AGL), BERINO VAL D’ S.CASCIANO and vice versa Aerodromes within pisa CTR Pisa1(GND/3000 ft AGL) and Pisa 3 (GND/ 9500 ft AGL), which oc- – – 1 NM Maximum en route level: 1000 subject to special rules WEST – SAN CASCIANO FT AGL. Tassignano and Massa cupy practically the entire region. There are a number of special rules for – GALCIANA – NORD VFR holding point if bound to Cinquale VFR flying which we list below, however pilots should check that they – SPEDALETTO Peretola A/D D;1 NM WEST All flights to/from Lucca Tas- and vice versa S.CASCIANO 1000 FT AGL signano and Massa Cinquale are current by consulting official aeronautical information sources. Maximum en route d) S. PIETRO A SIEVE – M. must operate VFR only. level: POGGIBONSI SENARIO – S.BRIGIDA Entry procedures – BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA – – S.GIOVANNI Flights operating with PISA CTR – LUCIGNANO – 1NM VAL D’ARNO and vice versa IFR/VFR flight PLN shall be CLASS “C” AND “D” WEST – S.CASCIANO Maximum en route level: 5000 conducted as follows: if IFR Training 1000 FT AGL; 1NM WEST FT AMSL VFR holding point PLN has not been cancelled See AGA 2-35 – ITEM 20 if bound to Peretola A/D D: before entering Pisa CTR, they – point 6 S. BRIGIDA 4000 FT AMSL shall proceed along one of the “LOCAL FLIGHT RESTRIC- Reporting points are also routes listed in para 5.1.2 and TIONS” identified by RDL/DIST from join one of the instrument General PRT/DME as specified: approach procedures to Pisa Departure and arrival flight - : RDL 283/23 aerodrome. plans shall be submitted also DME; Once carried out such proce- to PISA APP. AFTN address: - SPEDALETTO: RDL dure and according to flight LIRPZPZX. The appropriate 320/17.5 DME; meteorological conditions, ATS Unit will provide the ap- - GALCIANA: RDL pilots will decide whether to: proach control service. aerodrome, 307/8 DME; a) cancel IFR flight plan and Presence of two horizontal shall be carried - POGGIBONSI: proceed VFR to the airport of non-permanent and non-aero- out following the RDL 186/20.5 DME; destination, or nautical lighting sources (bea- shoreline at 1000 - BARBERINO: RDL b) land to Pisa/S. Giusto cons) with range 5 KM from FT. 186/16 DME; airport, or Florence town. Coordinates: Pisa TWR may occa- Pisa 1 CTR Pisa 2 CTR - LUCIGNANO: RDL c) divert to any other alterna- 434459N 111307E 434812N sionally request holding 197/11 DME; tive airport. 111808E over the entry points Exit procedures Procedures For VFR Flights shown in RAC 4-2-5.31. - 1 NM WEST S. CAS- CIANO: RDL 193/9 Departing flights shall operate Before entering CTR, VFR Different routing may be as- DME; according to VFR or VFR/IFR flights shall request clearance signed on request or at ATC - PONTEDERA: RDL flight plan. As far as IFR is to APP/TWR, specifying entry discretion. 248/26 DME; concerned, flights shall be con- point, routing and level/alti- Within Zone “3” of CTR, - S.GIOVANNI VAL ducted in according with Pisa’s tude requested. ATC Unit may VFR traffic shall fly only D’ARNO: RDL 136/20 aerodrome exit procedures approve the request or modify along the VFR routes and DME; as described in para 5.1.3. the clearance (holding outside according to levels hereunder - PELAGO: RDL 101/13 GROSSETO CTR CLASS CTR or over convenient visual specified. When necessary, “C” AND “D” DME; reporting points) or assign predetermined points have Rules for VFR flights - S. BRIGIDA: RDL 071/9 routing/level as appropriate or been established for VFR In order to avoid the intense DME; clear the flight on published holdings before flying military air traffic, when cross- - MONTE SENARIO: RDL VFR routes. route segments crossing ing Zone 1 of CTR to plan the 046/8 DME; Special rules instrument approach flight at least 3 NM west of the - S.PIETRO A SIEVE: RDL Due to continuous training and departure zones of coast and at an altitude of 500 activity, both VFR/IFR, of FIRENZE/Peretola or 031/11 DME. Traffic to FIRENZE/Peretola FT AMSL. See RAC 4-2-14.5. military aircraft within the where vertical separation aerodrome or ATZ VFR flights that intend to CTR “1” and “2” Zones, pilots from such procedures is not Grosseto CTR Pilots bound to FIRENZE/ operate within /Impug- intending to operate VFR in provided. Peretola or planning to cross nano ATZ must contact Siena such areas must contact the VFR routes and holding points AFIS on 122.600 MHz before Conventional signs: the ATZ shall: appropriate Control Unit and for overflying or for aircraft overflying, transiting, taking Leisure airfields a. contact PERETOLA TWR report all data concerning their bound to Peretola. to receive information and off, landing or joining airport flight in order to receive traffic N.B. Reported heights/alti- Airstrips marked clearance to cross before traffic patterns in order to information. tudes are the maximum al- Military airports leaving the holding points: obtain available and adequate The following rules are to be lowed (see also RAC 4-2-5.31). Civilian airports S.CASCIANO GALCIANA – S.CASCIANO information. applied: a) PESCIA – SPEDALETTO VFR flights operating within Mixed airports – GALCIANA (overflying and S.BRIGIDA. a) Departing or arriving – NORD PISTOIA – GAL- ATZ Runways without ACFT) altitude as suggested by b. if such clearance has been aircraft: CIANA (if bound to Peretola) orientation VFR flights intending to oper- Peretola TWR. postponed, hold VFR over the Inbound and outbound flights and vice versa C.T.R.: lower ate within ATZ shall contact GND limit GALCIANA – NORD above said points avoiding to/from Pisa ATZ must follow Maximum en route level: Perugia AFIS on freq. 118.100 A.T.Z. or restricted PISTOIA – SPEDALETTO Peretola instrument approach routes and heights shown in PESCIA – SPEDALETTO areas Mhz before overflying/crossing 1000 FT AGL and departure zones or aero- RAC 4-2-5.31; 1000 FT AGL departure/approach slope or Zones P, D or R VFR holding point: GAL- drome traffic circuit. b) Overflying aircraft: If bound to Peretola: SPEDAL- entering traffic circuit in order CIANA 1000 FT AGL 1 NM The above rules do not exempt The crossing of Pisa CTR, ETTO – NORD PISTOIA to receive pertinent and avail- No-fly zones WEST S.CASCIANO 1000 pilots in VFR from the duty Zone “1”, West of the – GALCIANA 1000 FT AGL able information.

76 77 ■ Tuscany On the wing

31km of runway ,and with an av- erage length of over 790 metres.

Technical stops For those arriving from North one excellent technical stop is the airfield ofBorgo San Lorenzo, in the Mugello area (Collina – FI03- 8), which has a certified work- shop for aircraft maintenance and a technical service centre for light aircraft. From here, in an E-SE direction, the sec- Serristori airfield ond equipped technical stop is at (Il Pinguino – PT01-4) with a workshop for light aircraft management. In the , one comes to the air- strip (Aero Club Valdera PI04-7), which has a Rotax engine maintenance workshop and runway staff. THE AIRPORT AND AIRFIELD NETWORK Along the coast, centres offering technical assistance services can be found at San Vincenzo (Sky Sport Europe Total number Total length Average length – LI03-5) and Nettuno (Arma RM03-5). In the case of 17 8 16.000 2.000 need, between these two stops, one can refer to the Man- 15 14.000 1.750 ciano airstrip (Flying Buttero GR05-2), which although it 12.000 1.500 10.000 1.250 does not have an assistance service as such, does have the 8.000 1.000 advantage that there is always someone about, as it is lo- Airports 6.000 750 cated next to a farm holiday centre. In the centre of the Airstrips 4.000 500 region, the Castiglion airfield has a runway of 2.000 250 Airfields 0 0 over 500 metres (Centro Volo Serristori AR04-5). data The Tiber Valley Compiled by the The Tuscan mountains are more or less parallel to the Ap- Author using Aviopor- ennine watershed line, with a series of valleys arranged in Leaving behind the castles of the Malatesta family encoun- tolano Italia - 6th a north-south direction, intersected by several important tered along the banks of the Marecchia and entering Tus- National Light Aviation Alpe della communication axes. Main roads that, positioned between can territory, one travels along the side of the Census data Luna Lake Montedoglio the hills of the fluvial valleys, provide important landmarks coming to the vertical of (43° for pilots venturing into Tuscany’s hilly territory. The most 35.32’N 12° 03.08’E). It is here that the Tiber rises, and in this first brief stretch, it runs between woods, farms and The Tiber Valley important and largest of these is the River Arno. The river Splendid view of Lake originates from the southern face of Mount Falterona and, wetlands, on a wide bed and in different branches that con- verge to form a single, well defined course at Montedoglio with the following the start of its route in the Casentin region, it large earth dam. flows into the Piana de Arezzo to meet the Maestro Canal that lies in the middle of the valley. From Arezzo it flows San Vincenzo airfield from south/east to north/west in what is known as the Upper Arno Valley, to Flor- ence, where it swerves west and maintains the same direction until it reaches the sea. A second valley, the Elsa Valley, lies further east, along the - Siena road and once again it crosses the region from north to south. Like the main towns and cities, Tuscany’s airports and airfields are located along the aforesaid valleys and the Region’s coastline. The Chiana Valley and the boast a particular concentration of airfields that, combined with those in the province of Perugia, make it a paradise for pilots. In Tuscany as a whole, there are some 40 airports and airfields, with a total of

78 79 ■ Tuscany On the wing

(43° 34.11’N 12° 08.28’E), on the bend where the river makes a sharp turn south. The city is well worth a visit, making the most of the possibility of landing on the nearby runway (Palazzolo Avio AR01-8).

On the way to Arezzo From Sansepolcro to Arezzo one can follow a direct route of approximately 27 kilome- tres to the airport. One flies over two moun- tain ridges at an altitude of approximately 1000 m and a series of wonderful little towns, including (45° 13.01’N 11° 17.04’E), an 8 km flight from San Se- polcro and considered by many to be one of the most beautiful fortified towns in Italy. From here, as one heads towards Arezzo, the landscape starts to take on the sugges- tive characteristics of Tuscany: that magic atmosphere of wild woods, rocks, castles, Arezzo medieval hamlets, churches and the roads Arezzo that curve along the land and rivers of the Splendid city that was This beautiful city, whose centre lies to the north east of once one of the most mountains. the railway, is dominated by the Cathedral and the walls important in Having passed the Alpe di Poti, the city of of the fortress built by the Medici family, high up on the Tuscany. One can clear- ly see the Cathedral, Arezzo appears in all its beauty, in the vast hill. The cathedral was built between 1200 and 1500 and Chiana Valley. next to Piazza Grande. is the most important church of Arezzo. Close by, slightly The roads are arranged south of the Cathedral, is Piazza Grande with the old Par- around the oldest part Sansepolcro of the city. Piazza Torre di Berta in ish Church of Saint Mary, whose floor slopes around the the city centre. side of the hill, the Palazzo della Fraternità dei Laici and the loggias created by Vasari in the first

Anghiari half of the 1500s. The roads and the buildings are The stunning fortified arranged around this original historical nucleus, on town of Anghiari that the south west side of the hill, enclosed by the walls. one encounters en route to Arezzo. The airport is located south west of the city centre, close to the access road, but unfortunately it can be used by local flying club members only. Chiana Valley ’s Exploring the Chiana Valley drawing that demon- The Chiana valley opens up south of Arezzo: a large, natu- strates the dramatic water problems of the ral basin, inhabited in ancient times by Etruscans and Ro- Chiana Valley in the mans, and subject to an infinite series of transformations 1500s. of its water courses that climaxed, in the second half of the 1700s, with the long Maestro Canal, which runs down Close to the airfield at the middle of the Valley for 40 km. Serristori, Castiglion Fiorentino is an ancient Etruscan settlement Arezzo airport along the Arezzo airport has a 750m-long runway, with 12/20 orientation. The air- Roman Via port is available for use by local flying club Cassia members only. Landing authorisation ap- plications must be sent to Florence DCA, specifying the reason for the request (055 317123). For information contact the Flying Club office on 0575 324282. The office is open in the morning and the air- port is closed on Mondays.

80 81 A landscape of olive trees Tuscany is dominated by a landscape of olive trees, cypresses and vines that climb up the slopes of the beautiful hills that constitute much of the Region’s territory. It appears that this plant, which is unable to survive temperatures lower than 4-5°C, initially found a favourable habitat in the Lucca area and subsequently spread to the entire Regional territory. Some 95,000 producers farm olive groves covering a combined area of 52,000 hectares, most of which are located in the Chianti area, along the coast and in the central southern area (the Orcia, Era and Cecina Valleys). The most common variety is the Frantoio, which originated in Tuscany before spreading to the rest of the world, which offers good resistance, high productivity and yields a flavoursome and aromatic oil. It is followed by the Moraiolo and the Leccino, both of which are more resistent to climatic adversi- ties. In 1985, there were 700 olive plants, which slumped to 380 follow- ing the disastrous frosts that hit the area that year.

82 83 ■ Tuscany On the wing

At the foot of the oriental hills lies the SS71 Arezzo/Castiglione del Lago road that follows an ancient Etruscan route that the Romans transformed into the Via Cassia. Perched on the hillside along the road are several splendid medieval hamlets of Etruscan origin, Castle of Montecchio such as Castiglion Fiorentino (42° 20.28’N 11° 55.24’E) Vesponi and Cortona (43° 16.28’N 11° 59.11’E), fortresses and A handsome 9th cen- is well worth visiting. Cortona is archaeological evidence surrounded by the seductive pano- tury structure visible on a splendid medieval town, whose take-off from runway rama of the Arezzo hills. walls date from the Etruscan pe- 05 at Montecchio. Following the works performed by the Romans along the riod. It rivalled Arezzo and Siena Chiana Valley, the valley was occupied by bogs and marsh- until 1400, when it passed un- es. In 1500, it was still completely covered by swampland, der Florentine control. Here the the traces of which still remain in the lakes of and Florentine-style T-bone steak is Montepulciano. Towards the south, overflying vineyards prepared using classic Chianina and cypresses, one encounters the first airfield at Castigli- beef, which is honoured with a on Fiorentino (Centro Volo Serristori festival in mid-August. AR04-5): 520 m long, an efficient recep- tion service and Italy’s first flying school Following the curves of the land Cortona for disabled users. It is the headquarters From Cortona, our itinerary continues straight towards Cortona is a medi- eval town of Etruscan of the corresponding association which the Tyrrhenian coast before heading North. The last stop origins and rare beauty goes by the witty, self-ironic name of “I in the Chiana Valley, and then the first outpost south of that rivalled “great” Baroni Rotti” (The Broken Barrons). the Siena area is the airfield of ( cities such as Arezzo A few kilometres further south there is and Siena. Below, SI02-9), 13 km south west of Cortona. Nearby, and reach- an overview of the another runway at Montecchio (Mon- able by bus (stop 500m from the airfield) are Sinalunga Chiana Valley, along Tuscan towns tecchio Podere Santa AR06-8). Taking off from (43° 12.50’N 11° 44.28’E), (43° 12.27’N 11° the ancient Via Cassia. In Tuscany, architec- runway 05, 2500 m away on the summit of the hill oppo- Above, a detail of Piazza tural curiosities never 48.07’E) and (43° 15.08’N 11° Repubblica e Signorelli, end. Pictured is a little site, one can see the Castle of Montecchio Vesponi (43° 49.09’E), three medieval towns that dominate the western in the city centre. In the town perched on a hill 19.04’N 11° 56.06’E): a handsome, important fortified face of the Chiana Valley. past it was not divided top. structure dating from the 9th century, which is very well From here, having travelled 57km towards the south west, by the buildings that can be seen in the preserved, with an intact perimeter wall and the 30m-high one can stop at (S. Rita GR07-2): the nearest centre. central tower. airfield to the national park of Mount Amiata. The route Just 4.5 km from the runway is the town of Cortona, which passes over the wild and mountainous lands of the woods, Above, the landscape the burnished territories of the vineyards of Chianti dei of the hills of northern Colli Senesi, Brunello, Montecucco and Rosso di Mon- Tuscany in August. talcino, over cultivated hillsides, over the towers of towns, churches and hamlets: (43° 09.59’N 11° 46.22’E), San Quirico D’Orcia (43° 03.30’N 11° 36.20’E),

84 85 Montalcino 43° 03.27’N 11° 29.23’E The Etruscan coast ( ). There is not a Sea and long, wide single regular field, or straight line to be seen: roads, riv- sunny beaches charac- ers, farms and towns are all moulded to fit the curves of terise the world-famous the land. coast of the Etruscans. The River marks the border between the prov- ince of Siena and that of Grosseto. At The Nature Reserve the confluence with the Orcia, is the S. Italy is full of wonderful places. One of these is the Maremma Reserve, in the Rita airfield and the inland part of Tus- , part of which has been a protected area since 1975. The cany’s Maremma area. park itself stretches from the point of in the south to the mouth of the Ombrone to the north, however the beauty of this coast continues to astonish The coast of the Etruscans even outside the institutional borders of the Park. Flying over the coast is an From to Cecina, along the endless emotion. The southern part of the park is dominated by the lagoon of coast there is a curious concentration of , Argentario and the mountains of the Uccellina covered with holms, airstrips. There are five within a distance oaks and strawberry trees. Sudden and silent, from the green heart of the woods of just 25 kilometres: (Con- dor LI07-5), (Val emerge the remains of rocks, abbeys and towers that were once active protective Populonia and the Gulf sentinels; now they are nothing more than simple testimony to Maremma’s past di Cornia LI06-2 e Delta Club Ibis LI08-2), San Vincenzo of (above) and as a battlefield. From these peaks, the mountains slip into the sea and the beach (Il Gabbiano LI02-7 e Sky Sport Europe LI03-5, Castag- the rocky coast of Ca- neto Carducci (Delta Club L01-3) and Cecina stiglioncello (below). that, far from the chaos of mass tourism, reclaims the elaborate remains of its (photos by Angelo wood from the sea. Trunks bleached by the water returned to the land perch (LI05-5). The coast between Piombino and Populonia Casentini) on the sand dunes to be fashioned by the wind. To the north, one comes to the drops down steep to the sea and imme- mouth of the River Ombrone, with its branches that cut the land; the swamps diately past the headland, one comes to alternate with the dunes; reliefs and water on which many species of bird live and the splendid Gulf of Baratti. We are in wild cattle graze. the heart of ancient and Popu- lonia (42° 59.42’N 10° 29.67’E), now a small town, ten thousand years ago was a powerful, highly developed city, thanks to its strategic position overlook- ing the sea, of which traces remain in the nearby cemetery to the west of the

86 87 Magic Versilia This photograph was taken in May, before the beaches were overrun by tourists and as the businesses along the beach prepare to welcome the start of the season: the changing cabins are opened, the boats are freed from their tarpaulins, swim- ming pools are filled and the sand is cleansed of the debris that accumulates dur- ing the winter months. And, above all, chairs, deckchairs, loungers and parasols are set up, as the various establishments compete in an undeclared contest to excel in the organisation and grooming of the space allocated. The results of this formal and functional quest are unusual and sometimes imaginative, with chairs and umbrellas arranged in patterns of colours and shapes that become hallmarks of the various establishments and the symbol of this coast. In the small photo on the left, the jetty at , now the ideal place for walk, used to be a mooring place for the ships that came to load up with pre- cious marble.

88 89 ■ Tuscany On the wing

inland route that follows the eastern bound- ary of the CTR. This is no bad thing, as the hills around Pisa deserve attention and one can take the opportunity to stop off at Pec- cioli Versilia hillock. The beach is beautiful, often wild and framed to airfield (Pratello PI09-10), adjacent to An attractive view of a splendid old hamlet that has been com- the Versilia coast where the east by a long pinewood that stretches almost to the shoreline. pletely transformed and recovered. Close to one can see the airport of Massa Cinquale, The coast’s tourism facilities start at San Vincenzo (43° Pratello runway is that of (Aero- below left. 05.42’N 10° 32.27’E): an authentic and club Valdera PI04-7), whose services for pi- In the centre of the lots make it an outstanding technical stop. page, a classic, elegant home to the Sky Sports Europe airstrip. After San Vincenzo, hotel at . Op- the coast becomes wilder and is flanked by the great Do- Here the hills are almost entirely covered posite, pictures of the noratico pinewood that by olive groves, vineyards (the typical wine beach establishments stretches as far as Ma- of the area is the Bianco Pisano di San and, in the map, the Topè based on Trebbiano and other white area covered. rina di Castagneto (43° 12.27’N 11° grapes), and orchards on the terraces that 48.07’E), where the Delta Club Donoratico runway is located 1000 m from the coast.

The Era Valley Beyond Cecina, one comes to the CTR of Pisa S. Giusto that ends al- most at Viareggio, on Lake Massaciuc- coli. To get there and continue along the coast northwards, light aircraft pilots must follow a more

Grosseto airport Lucca Tassignano airport Grosseto airport (LIRS) is a military airport that opened to civilian traffic in the Opened in 1932 as a simple “airstrip”, Lucca airport developed during the early 1960s. Private and charter traffic is subject to particular restrictions. Since war before being destroyed by the retreating German troops. It was re- 1989, it has been managed by S.E.A.M. S.p.A. and the new terminal opened opened to domestic tourism traffic in 1987. It has been managed by Società in 2000. It has a 3000 m runway with 03/21 orientation. Tel. for information: Aeroporto Lucca Tassignano S.r.l. since 1999. The airport lies just 6 km 0564 492779 fax: 0564 493099; Air Traffic Control: 0564 492346.Via ( Or- from the city of Lucca and has a 910 m-long tarmac runway and 10/28 cagna, 125 – 58100 Grosseto – e-mail: [email protected]. Website: www. orientation. The “Luigi Del Prete” Flying club has its headquarters at the grossetoairport.com). airport (Via Dei , 1 - I-55012 - Tassignano - Capannori LU - Pisa San Giusto Tel. 0583 935148 Fax 0583 932907 - e-mail: [email protected]). AFIS Pisa San Giusto opened as a military airport in 1925 and to civilian traffic in service on 122,5, JetA1 and AVGAS fuel, hangars also available for transit- 1960. Today it is classified as an aeroport with international traffic. It has a ing aircraft, handling service currently being set up, customs on request main runway (2993 m) and a secondary runway (2792 m) orientated at 04/22 24 hours in advance, bar, closed Tuesdays. Gliders may land subject to with tarmack surfaces, both of which are suited to any kind of aircraft. The authorisation from Pisa DCA; requests should be faxed to the management airport is managed by SAT Società Aeroporto Toscano S.p.A. Main telephone company (fax: 0583 933277). numbers are DCA: 050 40132; Weather: 050 928357; fire-fighting service: (Aeroporto di Lucca SpA - Via del Casalino - 55012 CAPANNORI LU - UF- 050 502034; Airport offices: 050 44325; customs: 050 91661Galileo ( Galilei FICI 0583 936062 AFIS ARO 0583 935501 FAX 0583 933277 e-mail: Airport, 56121 - Pisa - Tel: 050 849111 Fax: 050 849216 e-mail: sat@pisa-air- [email protected], [email protected] Website: www. port.com website: www.pisa-airport.com). aeroportolucca.it).

90 91 Lucca Many Tuscan towns and cities are built on the remains of ancient Etruscan and Roman settlements. The original layout of these centres is often still clearly vis- ible in the current structure. The most evident and exceptional example of this is found in Lucca and, in particular, Piazza Anfiteatro, shown in the main picture. The homes and buildings were erected on the foundations of an old Roman am- phitheatre that dates from the 2nd century a.d., which gives the square an oval shape. Until 1830, the space in the middle of the square was used for vegetable farming and part of the amphithetre ruins served as a prison. During the same period, the square was radically transformed by architect Lorenzo Nottolini, who demolished a number of buildings and erected others to achieve the current ef- fect. Lucca was a flourishing silk market between the 12th and 13th centuries and owes this commerce a considerable portion of its wealth. The city walls, which cover a total of more than 4 kilometres, are perfectly preserved and were erected in the 1600s. In the 19th century, Maria Luisa di Borbone ordered the construc- tion of the splendid public walk between the bulwarks connected by galleries.

92 93 ■ Tuscany On the wing

Abbeys and monasteries Abbeys and monaster- ies were erected throughout Tuscany. The monks played an important role in re- searching and applying new, advanced farming techniques. Important churches with baptis- mal fonts, known as Pievi, were also built and controlled by the various dioceses.

Lucca Lucca boasts a number of extremely important monuments such as the church of saint in the Forum draw complex, daring patterns (in the picture), which The Apuan Alps was started in 1000 on the hillsides. It is a gen- through to the evidence of the more re- tle land, spotted with towns, The Apuan Alps are a and subsequently com- cent French and Bourbonic occupations. splendid rocky range, pleted in various churches and eighteenth cen- Lucca is a splendid city, well conserved and for centuries they were stages. The elegant, tury stately homes. surrounded by an equally exceptional and quarries for the most impressive façade itself (43° 32.48’N 10° 43.13’E) is a beautiful and generous countryside, constituted by the Ser- precious of features Romanic and their slopes were elements in the well preserved medieval town, approximately 2.5 km chio and valleys. The city is just a few minutes scattered with towns. little loggias and in from the Pratello airstrip. from the airport. The drawing above the Apse and gothic clearly shows the Apuan influences can be The city of Puccini Versilia and the Apuans Alps, to the north seen in the gable One excellent stop-off for aircraft and ULM head- From Lucca, one can use the A11 motorway as a land- west of which lies the and the statues. Garfagnana valley. ed north is the commercial airport of Tassignano, mark and after just 16 km one encounters the Migliarino just 6 km from Lucca and which is currently being San Rossore Park and , immediately extended. Lucca (43° 50.35’N 10° 30.18’E) is lo- beyond which lies the famous Versilia coast, which starts cated on the plateau. It is surrounded by a at Marina di seventeenth century wall in excellent conditions that (43° 49.04’N 10° 15.64’E) and has been rebuilt four times over the centuries to stretches as far as Vittoria Apua- achieve its current impressive state. Inside the city na (43° 58.20’N 10° 09.41’E) is a mixture of the styles that through time have for a total of 20 km. It has been rivalled one another and formed layers in a con- one of Italy’s most exclusive and tinuous reinterpretation of space. On the perfect, popular holiday resorts since the Roman geometric regularity of the roads, one early 1900s, thanks to the partic- finds bold medieval solutions, Piazza Anfiteatro, the gothic basilica, the Renaissance buildings, towers, and neoclassic architecture,

The Piaggio Museum Piaggio is maybe better known for the and the Gilera than for the planes and aircraft engines that made this important Italian company a world leader in the aviation sector. Between 1937 and 1939, Piaggio’s air- craft engines set 21 world records, including that of an altitude of 17,083 metres; a record that still stands for piston engines. The evidence of these successes are brought together in the Piaggio Museum, which opens with a stunning P148 (1951) standing at the entrance. The Piaggio Museum is at Pontedera, 15 minutes from Pisa and 35 minutes from Florence. The closest landing place is the Valdera airfield (PI04-7). Admission is free from Wednesday to Saturday from 10.00 am to 6.00 p.m. Museo Piaggio “Gio- vanni Alberto Agnelli” - Viale Rinaldo Piaggio 7 – 56025 Pontedera (PI) – Tel: 0587 27171 Fax: 0587 290057. e-mail: [email protected]. Website: www.museopiaggio.it

94 95 The Apuan Alps Nature Reserve Flying over the Apuans, one notices the deep cuts of the quarries from which the world’s most famous marble was quarried and used by artists the calibre of . It is a white marble, almost completely devoid of veins, that has been known and used since Roman times. From the large quarries, one can trace the “lizze”, tracks of rubble over which the marble blocks were made to slide down hill and from here loaded onto the ships moored at the jetties that jut out from the coast into the sea, now popular places for a evening stroll. The economic and cultural history of Versilia is the history of its mountains and its marble, its sea and its beach establishments. It is the history of the little towns built in the shade of the trees and holm oaks, bleached by the dust rising from the quarries.

96 97 ■ Tuscany On the wing

Massa The city of Massa lies at the foot of the Apuan Alps. Right, the characteristic Piazza Aranci, with 16th cen- tury Palazzo Malaspina. The governed Massa for one hundred years. They were succeeded by the family that rebuilt the palace. Before it was con- structed, the Malaspina lived in the castle on ular climate caused by the presence of the Apuan Alps that the hill behind the city (below). The Castle’s stand mighty and are distinguished by their morphologi- perimeter wall was cal characteristics, heights and suggestions, from the rest erected in 1300. The of the Region’s landscape. Flying over these mountains (at inner building that was home to the ruling fam- altitudes higher than 1900m) is a unique, thrilling experi- ily was built later. ence: the sea on one side and the mountains and valleys on the other. The only runway available along the Versilia coast is the airport of Massa (Massa Cinquale LILQ MS01- 7). A stop here is therefore compulsory before venturing further, towards the region of Liguria. The Migliarino San Rossore Nature Reserve When coming from the south, immediately beyond Leghorn lie the estates of Tombolo and . Having passed the Arno, one comes to the Migliarino San Rossore Nature Reserve, which terminates with the splendid Lake Massaciuccoli. The entire system was generated by the action of the Arno and the Serchio and is an alternation of low land (bogs) and high land (dunes) that create swamp- lands with low vegetation. Further inland one encounters woods of native pines, elms and holm oaks, which provide a natural habitat for the thousands of birds that nest here. The waters are shallow (approximately 2m) and progress inland, towards the north, forming a system of lagoons and swamps of great natural interest with a fascinating aerial landscape against the backdrop of the immense, austere Apuan Alps. On the lake, at , is a small 360m long runway for light aircraft (Delta Condor LU04-3).

Massa Cinquale Airport Massa airport is a historical facility that dates from the start of the century. The local Flying Club and connected school was established in 1967. It has a 720m long runway, lies a few hundred metres from the coast at Marina dei Ronchi and is the only facility in Versilia. and taxis provide quick, easy transport to the main seaside centres. Light aircraft may land here subject to prior authorisation from Pisa DCA (tel: 050 44325) and by contacting the Flying Club (Traffic Office tel: 0585 309786 AD Office tel/fax 0585 309088). Landing tax is Euro 15.00 for planes, Euro 20.00 for helicopters and Euro 10.00 for ULM. Craft may park on the runway at no extra cost. There is a restaurant inside the airport. In July and August the airport is open from 9.00 am to 1.00 pm and 3.00 to 8.00 pm. Open non-stop at weekends and closed Tuesdays. Marina di Massa Airport 54039 (MS) - Via Intercomunale 12/b - Tel/Fax 0585 309088

98 99 ■ Liguria ■ Liguria A look back through history

A LOOK BACK THROUGH HISTORY Churches and castles to protect the main ports Liguria’s history was, to a great extent, dictated by the policy and choic- A number of such buildings can be es of its largest city, the “Superb” Genoa. Queen of the seas for over two found along the coast, built on top of pre-existing buildings. One of the hundred years, in constant conflict with the other marine republics, oldest is the Church of St. Peter at Genoa defended herself from the and French, concentrated on Porto Venere with the old medieval maintaining control over the entire Gulf and reached the height of her walls and Castle (which was rebuilt glory in the 12th and 13th centuries. The period that followed was in the 1500s). They are countered unsettled as Genoa alternated as an ally and adversary of the kingdoms by the Lerici Fortress, one of the Re- gion’s most important military con- and potentates into which Italy was divided until unity. Liguria now structions, built by the Pisans in the plays a key role in the country’s economy. early . The most important cas- tles include Ursino Castle at Noli and Del Carretto Castle at Albenga. Ancient evidence The burials dating from 240,000 years ago in The supremacy of Genoa the Balzi cave, at Ventimiglia, and the Between the 12th and 14th centuries, Genoa expanded her dominion over the very numerous rock carvings in the nearby Val- entire Ligurian territory it ruled, building outposts and fortified towns especially ley of Marvels, testify to lengthy human pres- along the Levante Riviera and on the mountains passes. It heavily defeated Pisa ence in prehistoric times. dating from in 1284. It lost the war with Venice, in 1381 and passed under French control. the age are present in the Levante area and Andrea was nominated the father of the homeland and made a pact fortified villages have been found in with the Hapsburg monarchy, he freed Genoa from French various Apennine sites. rule and guaranteed the city the independence that was to last for two centuries. This period of splendour is testi- Genoa fied to by the radical transformation of the city’s lay- The first nucleus of what was to become out and building of defensive structures. Genoa developed around the eighth Genoa’s decline century b.c. at Castello (Castrum), behind a natural harbour, shel- By 1600, Genoa was more important for tered from the winds. her banks than her military prowess. In the 1700s, she definitively lost -Cor sica to the French, and was occupied Roman roads and settlements by both the Austrians and the Pied- In 148 b.c., the connected montese. Genoa with the Padania Plateau. New connections were built later, thanks From the to the annexation to to which the native Ligurian peoples the moved towards the coasts, to the im- Napoleon conquered the mountain passes. In 1797, the portant of Luna (Luni), a harbour from which cargos of Apuan marble became the Ligurian Republic, in line with the concepts of the French Revolu- were dispatched for the entire classic age and the destination of the Apennine tion. In 1805, Napoleon annexed Liguria to . With the Vienna Congress, timber transported by the River Magra. Genoa definitively lost its independence and was handed over to the fam- ily under the name of the Dukedom of Genoa. The barbarian invasions Around the 5th century, the populations retreated to the hills and mountain- The birth of the Kingdom of Italy ous regions seeking protection from the barbarian invasions. The Roman cities The region played a key role in the Risorgimento. It was from Liguria that became bishoprics and a number of fortified sites were erected, often to control Garibaldi’s famous expedition of the Thousand set out. It became part of the and/or defend the roads over the mountain ridges. The most important archi- Kingdom of Italy in 1861. tectural evidence of the paleochristian period is the Baptistery at Albenga, built in the 5th century, with its decagonal plan on the exterior and octagonal plan The 20th century on the interior. A railway line was built along the ancient Via Aurelia. The coastal area under- went a boom in tourism and the economy and Genoa’s skyline was radically raids transformed. The harbours and cities of Liguria were badly Legend: In the 10th century, Liguria’s ports were hit during the Second , which was followed by a repeatedly attacked by the who roman roads period of reconstruction with the development of harbours

held power in the southern region of fortifications and industry. In the late sixties, the motorway network France. Genoa itself was sacked in 935. made the region more accessible, which further stimulated The population concentrated inland, free towns the development of the tourism business. Parks and nature where monasteries and abbeys were built. castles reserves were established to protect the environment.

102 103 ■ Liguria Wining and Dining

REGIONAL CUISINE and is ideal accompaniment to sweet bakery products. Another noteworthy Original, ancient Ligurian cooking is comprised primarily by vegetables wine is Rossese di Dolceacqua, from the hills surrounding the town of the same and fish in light, not excessively elaborate dishes, characterised by clear, name; this red is a good match for red meat and game. simple and recognisable tastes, the fruit of the region’s particularities. The exceptional climate offers the finest vegetables, the sea provides Seafood delicious fish and the region’s maritime tradition results in mixes that The coast offers fresh fish of outstanding quality and in many towns early in the morning fishermen sell incorporate the cultures and tastes of numerous other peoples. Olive the previous night’s catch. In Imperia, for instance, oil reigns supreme as a dressing. The inland area is characterised by the fish is auctioned along the harbour front. Cui- the fragrance and raw material of the mountains: snails, mushrooms, sine is simple and involves (once again) the aroma , meat dishes and excellent cheeses. Throughout the coastal area, of garlic and basil. The stuffed mussels are a must. the restaurant trade has a centuries-old tradition and is used to satis- fying even the most demanding palates of its international clientele. Genoa is probably the city that has had the greatest influence over the Seabass This fish is common in the Mediterranean and reaches characteristics of Liguria’s coastal cuisine, due to both its geographi- lengths of approximately 40cm and weights of up to a cal position and its historical contacts and trade with the whole of the kilogram, however larger specimens do exist. Its lean, Mediterranean. white, delicate flesh makes it a favourite.

Gilthead Trenette al pesto The first thing that comes to mind when one Considered a delicacy due to the says “Liguria” is pesto and it has to be said delicate flavour of its meat. Gilthead that no other place can rival Genoa on caught in the Mediterranean vary in this front. The success of the dish length from 30 to 60 cm. relies on a few, fundamental fac- tors: fresh, fragrant Ligu- rian basil, the finest olive oil, pinenuts and garlic, hand-ground to obtain a soft, velvety consistency. Grey mullet This extremely common fish along the Italian coast can reach lengths of 50 or 60 cm and Mesciùa and minestrone up to 6 kilos in weight. It is most commonly served roasted or grilled. It has lean flesh Mesciùa (or mesc-ciua) is a pauper’s with a good flavour that varies according to where it is caught. Its salty roe is used to dish typically served in the La Spe- prepare “” , a tasty appetiser or sauce for spaghetti. zia area. It is a soup made of pulses (chick , spelt, kidney beans and broad beans) that meat is sometimes added Scorpion fish to. Genoa-style minestrone is a mouthwatering dish made of fresh vegetables Also known in Liguria and Tuscany as Pesce Cappone. (even dried produce were acceptable at one time), enhanced by the fragrance It lives on deep seabeds and close to rocks and is fished of typical Ligurian ingredients: basil, garlic and anchovies. It is a dish not to using deep sea lines or gillnets. The fish is ugly-looking be missed. and spiny, but with a tasty flesh that is ideal for a vast range of uses, although traditionally it is used above all in Farinate and focacce soups. It is small, about 20 - 30 cm in length, and a great deal of it is discarded during is an ancient pauper’s dish made with chick flour because even preparation. flour was, for many, a luxury. In its simplicity, it is a difficult dish to cook, because it requires the rapid, intense heat that used to be provided by wood ov- Sole ens and woodpiles. It is a mixture of chick pea flour, water and olive oil cooked Caught by trawler nets because it lives on the seabed, Ital- in a thin layer on tray approximately 60cm in diameter. Focaccia is a ian sole reach lengths of about 20 cm. The flesh is lean, bread made on the “testo” or hotplate with oil and salt on the surface. The base firm, easy to digest and has a delicate flavour. is used with various accompaniments, including cheese (speciality of Recco).

Ligurian wines Ligurian wines: The best known Ligurian wine is Sciacchetrà, Rossese di Dolceacqua Pornassio or Ormeasco which is produced on the terraced hills of the di Pornassio Cinque Terre area. It is a highly fragrant raisin Val Polcèvera Colli di Luni Riviera Ligure wine that matures with 3 or 4 years of aging Golfo di Tigullio Colline di Levanto di Ponente

104 105 ■ Liguria Source: charts and text compiled by the Author using data and information provided by AIP Italia (airports) and Airspace geography Avioportolano (ULM runways). Warnings: the information contained herein is unofficial. Pilots are responsible for consulting the specific sections of AIP Italia for information on current regulations.

Conventional signs: AIRSPACE GEOGRAPHY IN LIGURIA CTR or over convenient visual traffic pattern. Leisure airfields Along the Levante Riviera are the P2 () P3 (Lerici) and D37 reporting points) or assign ALBENGA AIRPORT (Porto Venere) zones. Therefore, when arriving from the East, weath- Airstrips marked routing/level as appropriate or Special rules for VFR Military airports er permitting, pilots must follow an inland route over the clear the flight on published In order to facilitate VFR flight Civilian airports VFR routes. operations from/to Albenga

Mountains. airport is home to the Lunense flying club and one Mixed airports Pilots of aircraft inbound to airport, outside the ATZ the

Runways without Genova/Sestri aerodrome following visual reporting may land there subject to authorisation that must be sent at least one orientation might be required to hold points are established: day in advance. A little further north, in the Valley, is the little C.T.R.: lower GND limit North of PEGLI waiting - (suggested altitude

runway of Borghetto Vara (Alivara ULM) – SP02-2), which may be A.T.Z. or restricted for the clearance to join the for entering aircraft: 1500 FT areas used as a stop-off for ULM craft that do not have problems when taking aerodrome traffic pattern. This AGL; suggested altitude for off in confined spaces. Zones P, D or R clearance issued by Genova leaving aircraft: 1000 FT AGL) TWR is normally given when - ALASSIO (suggested altitude No-fly zones Genoa 1 CTR (class C from GND to 2000 ft AMGL) stretches from overhead the points: COGO- for entering aircraft: 1500 FT Rapallo to Varazze and VFR traffic approaching Genoa must follow a LETO, NERVI, NORTH AGL; suggested altitude for number of particular regulations, which are set out below. Genoa Sestri PEGLI. leaving aircraft: 1000 FT AGL) In the event of radio failure VFR aircraft intending to oper- airport is open to VFR traffic and it is here that the local pilots shall: ate within ATZ shall contact flying club operates. - if crossing, avoid Genova Albenga AFIS on frequency Along the Ponente Riviera are Albenga airport and the CTR; 123.850 Mhz before overfly- airstrip for leisure aircraft. - if proceeding inbound to ing/crossing departure/ap- Genova/Sestri aerodrome, proach slope or entering follow VFR routes as far aerodrome traffic circuit in GENOVA CTR The above mentioned provi- as PEGLI (NW of order to receive pertinent and Class “C” sion is applied also when the the aerodrome), available information. Special rules for VFR CTR is downgraded to observe the An acrobatic training area (see Before entering CTR, VFR class D airspace. ATC traffic in progress RAC 5-7-1.1) and a parachut- flights shall request clearance Unit may approve the and wait for ing area (see RAC 5-6-1.1) to APP/TWR, specifying entry request or modify visual signals are also established over the point, routing and level/alti- the clearance given by TWR aerodrome. tude requested. (holding outside to entry in the

Aeroporto di Genova Sestri il Club si trasferì all’Aeroporto di internazionale. Lungo la costa catering (Tel. 0182 585027) Volo (TWR 0187 272471). E’ Pendenza: 2%. Fondo: erboso. Dispone di una pista di 1925 e nel 1956 di nuovo quasi sul prolungamento asse Servizio autobus, taxi, auto a possibile atterrare dal lunedì al Circuito: standard. Numeri tel- m orientata 11/29 e si trova a a Genova presso l’idroscalo. Nel pista è situato radiofaro NDB noleggio Hertz (Aeroporto Inter- venerdì. efonici: 335 6342979 fax:0183 soli 9 km a ovest di Genova. Per 1959 il nuovo trasferimento frequenza 420. Le operazioni nazionale di Villanova d’Albenga Borghetto Vara 494135 - 335 372935. Società l’aviazione generale è disponibile all’attuale sede dell’aeroporto notturne sono assistite da luci “C. Panero”-Viale Gen. Disegna Coordinate: 44° 13.37’ N 09° di gestione: Associazione sportiva a nord un piazzale di 75.000 “Cristoforo Colombo”. Aero Club pista, sistema PAPI per pista -17038 - Villanova d’Albenga 43.21’ E. : Borghetto Delta - Via delle colonne n.2 An- mq. I sistemi di avvicinamento Genova - Aeroporto “C.Colombo” 27, luci REILS; una serie di 16 (Sv) Tel. 0182 582033 - Fax Vara. Numero piste: 1. Orien- dora (SV). sono costituiti da ILS di prima - Via Pionieri e aviatori d’Italia luci rosse segnalano gli ostacoli 0182 582924 – web: /www. tamento: 04/22. Dimensione: Ostacoli: vicinanza di abit- categoria per entrata strumentale - 16154 - Genova Sestri Ponente vicini. E’ sede dell’aero Club di airport.genova.it email: info@ lungh.m. 260 largh.m.25. El- azioni, non sorvolare. Regole da pista 29, radar di avvicina- - Telefono: 010 6512728 - Fax: e Riviera Ligure la cui rivierairport.it). evazione: 95 m slm. Fondo: erba. osservare: atterraggio difficoltoso. mento, VDF (radiogoniometro 010 6016772 - Orario: da Mar- attività iniziò dopo il secondo Aeroporto di Sarzana Circuito: destro. Giorni di attiv- Campo in fondo valle. Presenza automatico in VHP), NDB/App. tedi’ a Domenica / 9:30 - 18:30 conflitto mondiale con un FL3 L’Aeroporto di Sarzana (LIQW) ità: domenica. Numeri telefoni- di turbolenza nelle ore centrali. (radiofaro di avvicinamento), - Giorno di chiusura: Lunedì e un MB308. Oggi l’aero club è militare e dispone di una ci: 368 3308529 0187 894501. Precauzioni att./dec.: consultare ubicato a Ruta di Camogli sul - web: www.aecgenova.it conta su una flotta attrezzata e pista di 900 m disposta con Praticabilità campo: sempre, meteo locale, non interferire prolungamento dell’asse della Riferimenti telefonici: Ae- su una scuola in piena efficienza orientamento 18/36 in asfalto. tranne la seconda domenica spazio aeroportuale di Albenga. pista, NBD/Nav (radiofaro di roclub:010 6512727-6512728; e attività ed è aperto tutto l’anno. Presso questo aeroporto ha sede di ottobre causa fiera lungo la Praticabilità campo: buona. navigazione) ubicato sul monte ATS:010 6501659; ARO: I servizi attivi sono i seguenti: l’Aeroclub Lunense (via alta pista, usare solo per emergenze. Avvertire per atterrare: preferi- Costa Lione, VOR/DME (radio- 010 6015332; Fuelling: 010 Dogana e Guardia di Finanza vecchia 3 – 19038-SARZANA Avvertire per atterrare: si. Costi bilmente si. Costi Hangaraggio faro di navigazione) GP (guida 6505903; MET:010 6015352; (Tel. 0182 582033) Polizia SP). Gli aeromobili civili pos- Hangaraggio e stazionamento: e stazionamento: se disponibile planata). Sull’aeroporto ha sede AD: 010 6015225-6015018 (Tel. 0182 582814) Vigili del sono atterrare previa richiesta e no. Tassa atterraggio: no. Person- 6 Euro al giorno. Personale in l’Aero Club di Genova fondato Aeroporto di Albenga Fuoco Aeroportuali Servizio rilascio di autorizzazione da in- ale in campo: domenica. Distrib- campo: non regolarmente solo nel 1928. Inizialmente l’aeroclub Aperto nel 1922 dispone attual- Sanitario con personale medico e oltrare alla DCA dell’aeroporto utore più vicino: 200 m. su appuntamento. Associazioni ebbe sede al Lido di Albaro. Due mente di una pista di 1429 m paramedico (Tel. 0182 582263) di partenza oppure all’ENAC Stellanello presenti: Ass. Sportiva Delta. anni dopo il sodalizio si trasferì disposta in direzione 09/27. La ARO/MET (0182 5851201), di Roma. Prima di atterrare il Coordinate: 44° 00.07’ N 08° Distributore più vicino: 6000 all’idroscalo di Sampierdarena. pista è in macadam (è stata la Servizio Carburanti (Jet A1 e pilota deve avvertire il locale 04.33’ E. Comune: Stellanello. m. Costo servizi interni: su La flotta era allora costituita da prima pista in Italia lastricata Avgas 100 LL) Servizio Han- Aero Club (0187 673180 solo Località: . Numero piste: richiesta si effettuano riforni- cinque idrovolanti (De Havil- in questo modo) lunga 1429 m dling (0182 582033) Hanga- la mattina di lunedì, mercoledì, 1. Orientamento: 09/27. Di- mento, soccorso, trasferimento, a land Month e Caproni Ca 100). a 45 m slm. Si trova a 7 km da raggio aeromobili, anche perma- venerdì e sabato) e l’ARO (0187 mensione: lungh.m. 360 largh. pagamento. Servizio taxi: 7 km Dopo la seconda guerra mondiale Albenga ed è aperto al traffico nente, servizio bar, ristorante, 272467) e inoltrare il Piano di m.20. Elevazione: 140 m. dalla pista.

106 107 ■ Liguria On the wing

The Levante Riviera The portion of the Gulf that lies to the East of Genoa, covered in the first part of our itinerary, is known as the Levante Riviera. Arriving from the Tuscan coast, having left behind the Apuan Alps and passed , one encounters the P2 - in which the mili- THE AIRPORT AND AIRFIELD NETWORK tary airport of Sarzana lies - the D37A and the P3 zones that stretch towards the open sea for 20 km. The Magra Valley Total number Total length Average length Therefore, to enter Liguria, I followed the inland route, The Magra River Magra Val- enters the Apennines 3 3 6.000 2.000 along the vertical of the oriental slopes of the as it reaches the city 1.800 ley, flying over the attractive towns that populate it. Of 5.000 of Sarzana. Along the 1.600 these towns perched up high in the Valley it is worth visit- valley, an ancient con- 4.000 1.400 1.200 ing Castelnuovo Magra (44° 05.57’N 10°01.00’E), in the nection with Parma and 3.000 1.000 centre of which the main road, via Dante, joins the church Europe, one encounters Airports 800 important forti- 2.000 600 of Mary of Magdalen to the castle that was formerly the fied towns that were 1.000 400 bishopric palace. responsible for military Airfields 200 control. One example 0 0 Nearby are Luni (44° 03.73’N 10° 00.78’E) and Sarzana is Castelnuovo Magra Data (44° 06.38’N 09° 57.39’E). The former was an important (above left), home to Compiled by the Liguria has 6 landing sites: 3 airports (Sarzana, Genoa and Roman colony, testified to by one of the most important the 13th century castle Author using Aviopor- Albenga) and 3 airfields. Sarzana airport may only be used archaeological sites in the whole of Northern Italy. Sar- built by the of tolano Italia - 6th Luni (below). National Census data by the aircraft of the local flying club and outside users re- zana boasts a very attractive medieval town centre with an quire specific authorisation. ULM may choose from three impressive fortress to the north and a citadel built under landing sites. The first lies to the north of Sarzana airport the orders of Lawrence the Magnificent. These -monu at Borghetto Vara (Alivara ULM SP02-2); the second is ments testify to the important, flourishing economic life at Calvari (Roto Wings Tigullio GE02-01) and the third at of this city located at the mouth of the via Francigena, Andora (Stellanello SV02-3). The Calvari runway is a mere which joined it to northern Europe. It is a real shame 150 m long and it is not easy to land there. Most of the that the local airport is not open to civilian traffic. Flying territory is mountainous, covered by woodland and char- over the northern boundary of the P2 zone, one comes to acterised by narrow valleys in the centre of which run riv- the branch of the River Magra that meanders ers and roads connecting with , and north east into the mountains. Emilia. The most important of these is the - Genoa Here it mingles with the waters Borghetto Vara motorway. The main roads that cross the region from of its tributary, the Vara, whose The Borghetto Vara air- east - west are located along the coast: the A10 motorway valley one follows to reach the field is located between vertical of Borghetto Vara the river and the sports and the Via Aurelia state road. The highest summits are ground in the maritime Alps, with Mount Saccarello (2200 m), (44°13.25’N 09°43.15’E). and in the Apennines the high- Here one finds a small est peaks (1600-1800m) can be runway that is handy for any technical stops re- found around the Aveto Park quired. It does not have area, behind Genoa. The itiner- facilities, however ary described in these pages cov- the pilots are always ers approximately 250 km, most helpful and courte- of which follow the line of the ously offer any nec- coast, but with various deviations essary assistance. inland.

108 109 ■ Liguria On the wing

The Montemarcello Magra Park The Vara flows through a narrow valley: alongside it runs the motorway, which is forced to pierce the mountains to reach the coast and Genoa. We are in the Mon- temarcello Magra Nature Reserve which includes the estuary of the River Magra and the bed and the banks of the Vara as far as Ponte Santa Margherita (44°16.44’N 09°39.36’E). The landscape of the reserve and surrounding area is dominated by deep, narrow valleys covered by woodland. By leaving behind the Vara and continu- ing southwards, the rocks suddenly plunge into the sea and one is presented with the landscape of the breathtaking coast of the many noble Genoese families as their summer residence. The rocky coast of the Cinque Terre. Levante Riviera The rocky coast The Cinque Terre The series of towns that one passes beyond Levanto, along The stretch of coast known as the “Cinque the Levante Riviera include Bonassola (44° 11.01’N Terre” is approximately 20 km long, stretch- 09°34.54’E), located in a beautiful cove ing from the town of Riomaggiore (44° with a stony beach, and (44° 05.57’N 09°44.15’E) to Monterosso al 14.22’N 09°29.17’E), an old town that Mare (44° 08.46’N 09°39.16’E) and it is overlooks the deep, crystal clear sea, whose one of Italy’s most beautiful and spectacular beach interrupts the steep cliffs that drop stretches of coastline, declared part of the down to the water. From the air it is easily heritage of mankind by UNESCO. Unfor- recognisable thanks to its fortress and the tunately, as mentioned earlier, it is not pos- castle that are positioned on headlands at sible to fly over the Cinque Terre due to the either end of the bay. presence of the P2 no-fly zone that covers This stretch of the coast is truly exceptional, the whole area. Beyond Monterosso, as far moving and deserves all the attention pos- as Sestri Levante, the area is protected by a sible. In contrast with the wetlands and the Above, the itinerary ban on flying at lower than 1000 ft AGL. By respecting this beaches, where the land mixes with the water followed and described altitude, it is possible to admire this rocky coastline that and both elements blend with one another, in these pages and, below, the characteristic leads straight to the sea, pierced by the railway line that along this part of the coast, the rock creates vast mountainous terri- runs alongside. A railway that does not hesitate to cross a clear boundary between the earth and the tory to the north of the little towns through the heart of the main square, next to sea that caresses, strikes and whips it. In this Cinque Terre the cafes, along the streets, harbours and beaches. After endless game of encounters and clashes, the The Railway Monterosso, one comes to the gulf and the beach of Levan- white of the undertow blends, light or violent, to form The railway follows continuous patterns, marking the line that divides the two and perforates the to (44°10.11’N 09°36.41’E), an attractive town chosen by rocky coastline and elements in a long and constant dialogue. The water pene- cuts through the town trates into the weakest points of the rock, it leaves its mark, squares and ports of the towns overlooking the sea (above).

Even the smallest space available is used Levanto for farming. Typical, The rocks and head- brightly coloured lands of the coast open houses occupy daring up to sandy coves and positions overhanging towns. Right, a view of the sea. Levanto.

110 111 The Cinque Terre Nature Reserve The history of Liguria is above all the history of its coast: the towns that popu- late it, the seamen and farmers who live there, the sea and land that surround it. Perched on the rock, or spread over the sand, every town in Liguria has the sea in front and to the rear the hills with their terraces, farmed since ancient times to produce from the humus of the earth oil, wine, vegetables and flowers, whose quality is as unparalleled now as it was then. A wealth that was envied and defended from enemy attacks with fortifications overlooking the sea and narrow access roads on the hill side. A beauty that has something fantastical about it. One splendid example of the symbiosis between sea and land is the little town of Vernazza, which is photographed in these pages. The tower dominates the sea and from this position it looked to the horizon and the whole gulf of the Cinque Terre to prevent pirate attacks. The opens onto the only port of the Cinque Terre, which made Vernazza a town of great strategic and commercial importance and its inhabitants well respected and feared seamen and even earned it a representative in the Parliament of Genoa. Below the main castle is a second bastion known as Belforte.

112 113 ■ Liguria On the wing

respectively. The River penetrates deep into the inland part Rapallo Easily identified thanks of the Region gathering water from an endless number of to the fortress in the streams. is therefore an important gate of entry centre of the gulf, the into the inland area, its parks and valleys and is also a land- little marina and the characteristic Liberty- corrodes the mark for those pilots who intend to venture into the area style hotels. surface, flattens or pass Genoa to the north. the pinnacles and, The Portofino Nature Reserve undisturbed, carves its work. Above, the green of the vegetation de- The Tigullio Gulf enjoys a particularly fine climate: the scends as far as possible, as afar as the brine and best position is that occupied by the legendary town of Rapallo the rock allow. Sometimes it ventures just an inch (44°20.56’N 09°13.47’E) on the westernmost from the undertow and the rocks, where roots delve part of the gulf. It is a pretty town that can be spotted into the folds in the stone. immediately thanks to the little fortress in the middle of the gulf, its Liberty-style hotels, the little squares, flanked The Tigullio Gulf by elegant cafes, its famous seafront promenade and the Having passed Punta Baffe and Punta Manara, attractive little harbour. South of Rapallo, Punta Portofino one comes to the panorama of Sestri Levante stands out against the blue of the sea. (44°16.11’N 09°23.37’E). You will recognise it The entire area that stretches from the town of Chia- thanks to the rocky little peninsula that pushes out vari (44° 19.02’N 09°19.20’E) to Recco (44°21.51’N towards the sea, joined inside by a narrow isthmus 09°08.32’E) is part of the Portofino Nature Reserve, overlooked by two splendid bays: the Bay of Fa- which is also protected by a no-fly zone. The VFR route bles to the west and the smaller, suggestive Bay towards Genoa includes a contact point on the seafront, as of Silence to the east, framed by a line of brightly soon as one has passed the point of the peninsula (PORTF coloured houses and a little harbour. On the head- 44°17.4’N 09°11.5’E). The Reserve is a perfect synthesis of land, an ancient settlement has developed that is of all Liguria’s architectural and environmental qualities: the interest due to its Basilica, the and the town itself is a little treasure whose buildings nestle around church of , built in the 12th cen- the pretty harbour, protected uphill by the woods of horn- This page: the sugges- tury. Overflying the Tigullio Gulf, after Sestri beams, ashes and chestnut trees and downhill by the bushes tive Bay of Silence at Levante, one encounters and Chiavari Sestri Levante (top right (44°19.02’N 09°19.20’E) in the very centre of the and above); the rocky coast with vegetation Gulf. Chiavari is an old Roman settlement, that descends almost that was known as Clavarium or “key of to the waterline (top the valleys”. Chi- avari and Lavagna are left); the church of St. Stephen at lavagna, located on the left and with its asym- right bank of the metrical belltowers, Entella River, baroque staircase and typical pebble Abbey of St. Fruttuoso mosaics that line the Situated in a narrow entrance. bay is the breathtaking town of San Fruttuoso built around the old Benedictine Abbey. The Doria family later built a watchtower there. The current beach was formed during a violent downpour in 1915 that caused the first span of the church to collapse.

114 115 The spectacle of the sea The coastal part of the Levante Riviera has something extraordinary about it. Much of the rock is , rocky, sedimentary grey and layered material that over time the water has filed, eroded and fashioned to enhance the layers of which it is composed. The rocks stoop to the sea with flat surfaces, some of them vertical with impracticable spurs, others horizontal and hospitable.

116 117 ■ Liguria On the wing

of heather, strawberry tree, lentisk and myrtle. The whole area is dotted with paths and walk- ways between the terraces of vines and olives that testify to the marine and agricultural roots of the peoples of this exceptional region. The rock descends straight down to the blue sea and, as soon as one passes the point of the pe- ninsula hidden in a deep bay between sea, rocks and bushes, one sees the white of the Abbey of St. Fruttuoso (44° 18.90’N 09° 10.42’E) built around the year 1000 and initially in- habited by monks. It later became property of the Doria family, Genoese noblemen who built a watchtower there. Overall, the territory of the Park covers the municipalities of Recco, Camogli, Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Zoagli and Chiavari. (Ente Parco di Portofino-Viale Rainusso, 1 - 16038 Santa Mar- gherita Ligure (Genova) Tel: 0185 289479. Fax: 0185 285706 e-mail: [email protected]. e- The splendid bay of mail: [email protected]. Surface area: 1056 hectares. Portofino, overlooked by Piazza Martiri Province: Genoa. Established: 1935 (Ente Autonomo Monte dell’Olivetta start of the di Portofino), 1995 (Regional Nature Reserve). For further famous luxury prome- information: www.parcoportofino.com) nade of Calata Marconi (in the foreground) From the Levante to Ponente Rivieras and below, a detail of the houses, shops and Genoa (44°25.09’N 08°53.51’E) is triumphantly po- restaurants. sitioned in the centre of the gulf and marks the border between the Levante Riviera and Endless surprises Immediately beyond Portofino, on the other side of Punta Chiappa, is Camogli (44°21.00’N 09°09.12’E), which boasts a decidedly different style of architecture from that seen thus far. So different that it leaves the observer stunned and curi- ous. At Camogli the little houses and crooked streets make way for a series of blocks of five or even six floors, delicately coloured with pastel shades, tidily -ar ranged in long rows that climb up the hillside, drawing roads and routes around a small rock, once an island, home to the 12th century Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption and the remains of an ancient castle (Castel Dragone). This great maritime city was important for its fleet, trade and the foundation of the Mutua Marittima Camogliese insurance association that was later widely imitated. 118 119 ■ Liguria On the wing

the Ponente Riviera. This border is not merely a formal one, as there are considerable differences between the two: Genoa and, in the back ground, C. Columbus the former is wild and steep, the latter tame and sloping. airport The city is served by “” interna- tional airport, built on a strip of land opposite the harbour of Sestri Ponente in a CTR that stretches from Varazze to Chiavari; the northern boundary of the CTR reaches 8 km inland, almost as far as Genoa Bolzaneto. finds large and Any light aircraft that wishes to pass small towns with their from the Levante Riviera to the Po- beach, long promenade, the nente Riviera must therefore leave the houses climbing up coast near Chiavari and go around on the hillsides, the the controlled area to the north of little harbours and Genoa. The simplest way is to follow the road that weaves the course of the Entella River from along following the curves of the rocks and the sea. Behind Genoa stands Chiavari, then the pretty valley of the a series of castles and Lavagna River. Here, at Calvari, right The more favourable contours of the Ponente Riviera have watch towers (above on the River bank, there is a small allowed the development of larger cities. Having passed left). The state road Genoa, the first of these that one comes to is Savona (above right) runs along runway and helipad just 150 m long the entire coast, offer- (Roto-Wings Tigullio 44° 22.58’N 09° (44°18.25’N 08°28.49’E), which strikes the observer for ing an exceptional view 17.38’E) created and managed by a her architectural heritage. A medieval city with excellent of the sea. Every now cordial and helpful group of enthu- examples of baroque art and strong modern constructions and then one catches glimpses of parts and siasts. The runway is for aircraft with that fuse in a curiously orderly manner. Overlooking the the tunnels of the old STOL characteristics, autogyro and sea stands the great Priamàr fortress, testimony of the road, now disused helicopters. The approach is good in power of this city and at the same time of its decline. The (above). both directions and it may be particu- fortress was, in fact, built by Genoa - Savona’s eternal rival larly useful as an emergency base. and enemy - in 1542, following the conquest of the city. The flight takes one through the wood- Beyond Savona the urban development continues as afar covered mountains, deep folds in the as Vado Ligure. land, little roads that lead goodness Rocks and castles knows where in a landscape of intense, The bellicose history of Liguria’s cities and towns is closely even greens. Suddenly, looking to the connected to the sea and the entire coast is dotted with Behind Genoa left one can see the city of Genoa and the great sea that Along the valley of the military structures: watchtowers, fortresses and castles. To- laps it. And on the highest peaks, behind the city, the doz- River one comes to the day many of these are little more than ruins; others, by ens of watchtowers and fortresses built to protect her from town of Calvari and, contrast are well preserved, as is the case of Mount Ursino here a small 150m long ancient enemies still stand guard. runway. The Ligurian Castle at Noli (44°12.18’N 08°24.53’E), on the top of the territory is mountain- On the Ponente Riviera hill that overlooks the city or Carretto Castle, which one ous. The Lavagna valley is longitudinal to the As one heads south west, one flies over the high peaks and can immediately after the rocky headland of Mount Capo coast and is clearly the valleys of the Beigua Park to reach the coast close di Noli at Varigotti. visible in the drawing to Varazze (44°21.39’N 08°34.36’E). Here the Ponente below just north of the headland of Portofino. Riviera appears as a series of large coves above which one

Savona Left, the beautiful port of Savona and, below, the little island of .

120 121 The terraces over the sea Since ancient times, the limited availability of land forced Liguria’s farmers to build terraces supported by dry stone walls for their crops. The terraces are joined by paths, steps, ramps, drainage channels and irrigation systems for a total length that has been estimated at approximately 6500 kilometres. From an agricultural standpoint, the system adopted in Liguria has an inestimable economic and cul- tural value that is further enhanced by its natural suroundings. The terraces fol- low the contours of the mountains, surrounding towns and housing and creating bold curves of unparalleled architecture that, from the air can be enjoyed and admired in all their extent and unparalleled beauty.

122 123 ■ Liguria On the wing

The Albenga Plain The Ligurian coast is a continuous- se quence of rocky headlands that enclose little gulfs and beaches overlooked by im- portant, famous cities and towns. Then suddenly, having flown over the little town of Ceriale, one comes to the pla- teau of the city of Albenga (44°02.56’N 08°12.46’E), entirely occupied by green- houses where vegetables, fruit and flowers grow. The city of Albenga is an ancient Roman settlement on the banks of the River Centa and one of the most inter- esting cities in Liguria, due to its particu- larly well conserved and fascinating city centre. One can reach it with ease from the airport just 6 km away or, for light aircraft, from the airfield at Stellanello (Campo Volo Delta SV02-3). Carretto Castle Carretto Castle stands The Riviera of Flowers on the summit of the headland that comes After Albenga, a pretty little island emerges from the sea: into sight immediately this is the Island of (44° 01.54’N 08°13.56’E) after Capo Noli. now a nature reserve, crowned by an old watch tower built by the Genoese. After passing the unusual and atypical landscape of the Albenga plain, the coast reverts to a series of rocks, beaches and towns, with one difference: the green- houses and the intensive farming that characterise the flatlands are transferred to the hillside terraces. One flies over the city of Alassio (44°00.21’N 08°10.15’E), queen of the Riviera of Palms and ele- gant holiday resort since the 1800s, An- dora (43°57.01’N 08°08.34’E), Cervo (43°55.66’N 08°06.90’E) and (43°54.47’N 08°04.96’E), be- fore coming to the handsome city of Imperia (43°53.06’N 08°01.36’E), the provincial capital situated in the mid- dle of the stretch of coast known as the “Riviera of Flowers”. Imperia is divided into two parts: the first part that one sees on the left hand bank of the Albenga The city centre of River is the old settlement of Oneglia. The harbour front, Albenga on the banks along the Calata Giovan Battista Cuneo, is flanked by of the River Centa. beautiful, multicoloured constructions with long galleries

Stellanello Airfield Located in the valley of the River, that A sea of flowers flows out into the sea at Andora. It is clearly As I have already mentioned, Liguria’s coast never ceases to amaze and the visible, with a 360m runway, between the river Albenga plain is yet another example. The spectacle that it offers is as unusual and the road and has a good position with zero as it is curious: a flat, sea that is completely unexpected and that contrasts approaches on both aprons. One must pay with the characteristic rocky coastline that is so commonplace in Liguria. Since careful attention, especially in the middle of ancient times this plain has been used for intensive farming, due to the favour- the day, because of the intense heat activity. able climate and the high productivity of the soil caused by the deposition of marine sediment and those of the Centa river.

124 125 Dolceacqua Dolceacqua is a little medieval town just 7 km from the coast along the banks of the Nervia River that joins the sea at Ventimiglia. A few minutes’ flight are suffi- cient to admire this fine example of medieval architecture, dominated from above by the austere Doria Castle, built in the 10th century. The town is positioned on the hill where the grapes of the prestigious and exclusive Rossese di Dolceacqua wine, primarily Rossese grapes, are farmed. The splendid 33m single arch hump back bridge dates from the Middle Ages. The main square is overlooked by the church of St. Anthony Abbot and the neighbouring Doria Palace.

126 127 ■ Liguria On the wing

Gallinara island The Hanbury Botanic The island of Gallinara, Botanic Gardens and prehistoric sites Gardens close to Albenga, is a Beyond one flies over the point of Capo Nero, Not far from the French nature reserve over- border, a fascinating looked by a castle and a Ospedaletti (43°57.01’N 07°08.34’E) and Bordighera little headland is home watchtower. (43°48.02’N 07°43.01’E), before coming to the famous to the Hanbury Botanic city of Ventimiglia (43°47.24’N 07°36.28’E), the last im- Gardens and the hand- some villa, of which the portant settlement on the Ponente riviera. The most in- oldest part dates from teresting part of the city is located just over the river, on the 1300s. the hill by the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption (11th - 12th century), which is surround- Porto Maurizio ed by a historical settlement, that Seen from south of is, in places, in ruins. Porto Maurizio part of As we approach the French border, Imperia and the city opposite which the fresh fish is auctioned as the fishing centre boats return from the sea. Behind this is the bell tower there are still at least two things of of the Collegiata di San Giovanni interest to explore before heading Battista built in the first half of inland: the Hanbury Botanic the 1700s. Gardens and the Balzi Rossi A little further on, beyond the riv- caves. The former are exactly er’s mouth, is Porto Maurizio. It 4 km from Ventimiglia on the is easily recognisable because it is first headland of Punta Mortola the old city centre, dominated by (43°46.87’N 07°33.32’E), which the cathedral, built between the marks the end of the Riviera of late 1700s and the early 1800s, Flowers. It is a particularly pres- with an unmistakable neoclassi- tigious and complete botanic gar- cal style. dens and covers some 18 hectares. From here on, the entire hilly It is the only one of its kind in Eu- area of the coast is covered with rope and was created by the En- terraces for the production of glishman, Sir Thomas Hanbury, flowers, fruit and vegetables.San - who, having fallen in love with Liguria, purchased the land in 1867 and developed native Ventimiglia remo (43°49.06’N 07°46.26’E) The last city in Liguria. is the best known representa- and exotic plant species in such an interesting combina- tive of this activity, particularly tion to make it a protected natural area. The gardens are famous for her flower farming. dominated by the attractive, clearly prominent and visible It is a large city, a world famous building of Villa Hanbury, in light coloured brickwork, of and internationally popular holi- which the original nucleus dates from 1300. day resort that amidst the lib- Close to Villa Hanbury and just a few metres from the erty-style hotels and ultramodern French border is a high rocky precipice that drops straight Above, Sanremo harbour and, below, buildings, also preserves an older part known as La Pigna, down to the sea. The nine caves that can be seen here were the picturesque Calata made up of narrow roads, steps and closely built houses home to various commu- Giovan Battista Cuneo, in a characteristic and original arrangement. nities some 240,000 years at Imperia, with the church of John the ago, of which important Baptist clearly visible in remains have been found. the background. The place is known as “Balzi Rossi” and it is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the whole of the Mediterra- nean.

The Balzi Rossi caves One of the Mediter- ranean’s most important archaeological sites. The The impressive rocky walls drop straight to cathedral of Porto the sea. The site lies just a San Maurizio with its few dozen metres from the unmistakeable neoclas- French border. sic façade.

128 129 ■ Sardegna ■ Sardinia A look back through history

A LOOK BACK THROUGH HISTORY part of the Eastern Roman Empire. Important Sardinia’s strategic position and mineral riches have always attracted the examples of include the attention and interest of the powers that contended for military control Cathedral of St. John of Sinis, near Oristano and the Basilica of St. Saturn in Cagliari, both of the Mediterranean over the centuries. At various points in time, the dating from the 5th - 6th centuries. island’s native populations encountered Phoenicians, Romans, Carthag- inians, French, Arabs, Genoese, Pisans and Spanish. After the Second The Giudicati and Pisan rule World War, the reclamation of the coastal areas, the elimination of ma- In the 8th century, the dis- laria and investments in tourism and infrastructures made Sardinia part tance from Byzantium fa- of Italy’s modern economy. voured the creation of autonomous power on the island, which was divided into four Giudicati: Cagliari, Logu- doro (or Torres) and . For centuries, Pre-nuragic civilisations the coasts were the scene of Arabian invasions. In the The people, probably of oriental origin, set- early 11th century, the Giudicati succeeded in defeat- tled in Sardinia in neolithic times. (mega- ing the Arabs with the help of Genoa and Pisa. Sar- lithic sepulchres) dinia passed under the aegis of Pisa, Genoa’s age-old are frequently rival. Numerous fortifications remain from the pe- encountered riod of Pisan rule, such as the castle that was to be- e s p e c i a l l y come the centre of Cagliari, Castro Castle, modern around Olbia day Castello, which dates from the 13th century. and , and at From the Aragonese to the Savoy family impressive men- Having defeated Pisa, Sardinia became an hirs (“pedras fittas” in Sardinian dialect) can be admired. Aragonese feudal holding in 1326, under the ’s orders and then part of the Kingdom of The Nuragic civilisation until 1718, when it was passed over to the The Nuragic civilisation developed from 1600 b.c. to 500 Savoy family. Important fortifications dating from b.c., especially in the inland areas of the region where more the Spanish period still remain, such as the 16th cen- than 7000 nuragic towers were built. Some were joined tury bastions of Cagliari, the mighty cylindri- together to form fortresses, such as the complex at Su cal towers of Alghero and the Nuraxi di , declared part of mankind’s heritage system of coastal towers that by UNESCO. surround the entire island.

The kingdom of Sardinia The phoenicians This period was characterised by widespread social In the 10th century BC, the Phoenicians came to Sardinia disorder and unrest caused by a severe economic reces- and colonised its coastal areas. The name of Sardinia would sion that boosted the phenomenon of banditism. Sar- Shrdn appear to derive from the word “ ”, a toponym carved dinia became administratively integrated with the other on the stele of Nora. The Phoenicians established numer- mainland states. ous cities such as Karalis, Nora, Bithia, and . The nuragic peoples and the Phoenicians lived side by side The unity of Italy peacefully for centuries. Industry and (which dates from ancient times in Sardinia) flourished and at the end of the 19th century, The Carthaginians and Roman Rule the Iglesias complex had some 15,000 employees. The The Carthaginians conquered the island in the late first railway was built on the island. 6th century BC and it became a in 226 b.c.. Numerous cities were founded or de- 20th century veloped (, Nora, , For- Legend: The mining industry flourished once again under fas- dongianus, Cagliari) and roman roads cism. The reclama- roads were built connect- tion of the marsh- nurages ing the coast to the inland area. lands completed phoenician-punic sites after the Second and Byzantines fortifications World War stimu- In the middle of the 5th century, Sardinia free towns lated the develop- was conquered by the Vandals. One century ment of the region. later, it was once again, albeit marginally, castles

132 133 ■ Sardinia Wining and Dining

REGIONAL CUISINE One might expect Sardinian cuisine to be based primarily on seafood, and Moddizzosu, popular for its soft- but that is not the case. Not that there is ever any shortage of fish on ness. Served with cold meats and creamy the menu. However, the customs and history of the Sardinians are more cheeses. closely linked to the inland areas than the coast that they fled due to en- emy attacks, disease and the difficulties of life in the vast swamplands. Bottarga Tradition therefore lies more in the hands of the island’s shepherds Bottarga is a Sardinian speciality made using grey mul- let roe. The softer variety is served as an appetiser and the than those of its fishermen and this reflects on the taste and more consistent kind is grated on an assortment of dishes. flavours of its cuisine. Livestock produce are the stars The best and tastiest way to savour it is with spaghetti, of the table, together with olive oil, vegeta- dressed with olive oil and garlic and it may be either bles and the fragrance of herbs, particularly raw or slightly heated to soften it. myrtle. Meat is mainly lamb or goat, but also pork, used to prepare the legendary “Porced- Sea urchins du”. It also features game, especially in inland A plate of spaghetti with sea urchins is a real treat. This rare delicacy in the rest of Italy is commonplace areas and boar is a popular dish. in Sardinia, where, in the right period many stalls sell them along the roadside. Also delicious eaten raw straight from the shell (without lemon!).

Fregula Fregula is rather like couscous. It is made of wheat bran, steamed and transformed into spheres a few millimetres in diameter. It is left to dry or lightly Porceddu toasted and can be used in a variety of dishes. In Sardinia, as a general rule the piglets used must not Wines weigh more than 4kg. The Sardinia offers a range of wines, all of outstanding ancient cooking technique is “a quality. Refer to the map and carraxu” or buried in a hole in the ground warmed by em- the indications given. The most bers. The ashes are removed, the hole lined with leaves and famous are the Cannonau and myrtle branches and the piglet laid inside; it is then covered the wines, which with leaves and earth and the fire lit once more above, al- are widespread throughout the ternatively red hot stones or embers may be placed over the Region. The produced top. Today, this dish is usually cooked in the oven or on the in the Oristano area, especially spit following a ritual made up of a thousand little touches Bosa, has a sweet, dry flavour that make this delicacy worthy of being savoured with one and is served as an aperitif or an (or more) glass of excellent Cannonau. accompaniment to desserts and cheeses. Ciogga, Coccoiddus, Boveri, Tappadas Different ways of saying “snail”. In Sardinia, good Malloreddus quality snails abound. They form an important part Small bran (similar to orecchiette in Puglia), that of the region’s cuisine and can be prepared in a can be boiled and served in a variety of ways. multitude of different ways: fried, poached, stuffed, stewed. There is a runway at , where the “Snail Festival” is held in October.

Bread In Sardinia, bread is a staple food. Pane Carasau, a thin, very light Sardinian wines: and crispy sheet that keeps for days originated in Vermentino di Gallura Malvasia di Bosa the area and can now be found throughout Alghero Cannonau Malvasia di Cagliari Moscato di the island. Then there is Civraxiu , ordinary bread, di Sardegna di Cagliari

Coccoi, once exclusively used on special occasions, Carignano del Mandrolisai di

134 135 ■ Sardinia Source: charts and text compiled by the Author using data and information provided by AIP Italia (airports) and airspace geography Avioportolano (ULM runways). Warnings: the information contained herein is unofficial. Pilots are responsible for consulting the specific sections of AIP Italia for information on current regulations.

AIRSPACE GEOGRAPHY CTR, if unable to contact ROMA FIC, will contact Algh- In Sardinia, there are three large CTRs, corresponding to the airports of ero APP on frequency 128.550 Olbia, Alghero (in the north) and Cagliari (in the south) and a multitude MHz. of special and prohibited zones. These include the R54 (Oristano) area OLBIA CTR Class “C” that from Monday to Friday (24 hours a day) is occupied with military SPECIAL RULES FOR VFR traffic. It is possible to land there subject to authorisation from Cagliari TRAFFIC APP. At Capo Frasca (south west of Oristano), is the R59 area where Before entering CTR, VFR military exercises may be conducted from Monday to Friday (24 hours flights shall request clearance to APP/TWR, specifying a day) and until midday on Saturdays. South west of Cagliari is the R46 entry point, routing and (Capo Teulada), which is a no-fly zone from Monday to Friday (24 hours level/altitude requested (not a day) and on Saturdays from midnight to midday due to possible shoot- below 1000 FT AGL) ATC Unit may approve the request ing activities. Along the eastern coast, south of Tortoli there is a series of or modify it (holding outside areas with special regulations. The area affecting the inland territory is CTR or over convenient visual around . Pilots should look out for the large D33 () reporting points) or assigned routing/level as appropriate or area that occupies Barbagia and the Park, where there is a clear the flight on published great deal of helicopter traffic. The last area to be mentioned is the P17 VFR routes. (See RAC 4-2- zone (Maddalena) that covers the entire Maddalena Park. 7.15). Pilots on VFR, outside Olbia CTR, shall establish and maintain radio contact with TORTOLI’/ airport Roma information; if unable Due to heavy low level activity they shall report position to of military jets, aircraft from/to Olbia TWR. Tortolì ATZ flying west of the Temporary reserved area coast are suggested to maintain Alghero CTR Training and aerobatic activity at least 2500 FT AGL. See may be conducted according to RAC 5-1-2 (LI R39), RAC Olbia CTR VFR, at ATC discretion, with- 5-1-3 (LI D33/D111/D112/ in OLBIA CTR; in the area D113 and D114). south east of Olbia aerodrome ALGHERO CTR (bounded approximately on Class “D” the east by the coastline as far Before entering CTR, VFR as S. Teodoro and by the super flights shall request clearance highway to the west). to APP/TWR, specifying entry OLBIA VENAFIORITA VFR point, routine and level/alti- working Area tude requested. ATC unit may Southeast of Olbia airport approve the request or modify there is a circular work area the clearance (holding outside (3NM in diameter) with CTR or over convenient visual intense military helicopter traf- reporting points) or assign fic. Continuous two-way radio routing/level as appropriate. contact with Olbia TWR/APP VFR flying in the area between must be maintained. CORSI and RAMEN not Activity is subject to traffic interesting Olbia or Alghero to/from Olbia. All craft not involved in said activity is Conventional signs: invited to avoid the area

Leisure airfields CAGLIARI CTR lass Airstrips marked C “C” AND “D” Before entering CTR, VFR Military airports flights shall request clearance Civilian airports to APP/TWR, specifying entry Mixed airports point, routing and level/alti- Runways without orientation tude requested. ATC Unit may

C.T.R.: lower approve the request or modify GND limit the clearance (holding outside A.T.Z. or restricted areas CTR or over convenient visual reporting points) or assign Zones P, D or R Cagliari CTR routing/level as appropriate

No-fly zones (see RAC 4-2-8.5).

136 137 ■ Sardinia On the wing

from the mainland. It is well-kept and has the necessary equipment for re-fuelling and simple assistance. For routine maintenance, spare parts and more complex assistance, the official Rotax Service Centre is located in the south of the island, at the Siliqua airfield Tana( del Volo CA06-4). The owner provides technical assistance services also off premises and throughout the region. The other technical stops available are, in the south: (Sa Doda CA05-6), which has a well-equipped workshop, Set- timo San Pietro (Amici dell’Aria CA01-4) and (Antica Sardinia CA09-8). In the north, are San Teodoro (San Teodoro NU02-5) and (Platamona SS05-4). In the middle of the island, one can stop at the (Ulcor OR02-4) airstrip. In any case, it is always advisable to call ahead THE AIRPORT AND AIRFIELD NETWORK to make arrangements for any assistance.

Total number Total length Average length The Iglesias Mines 12 6 18.000 3.000 The Iglesias region lies in the south west 8 16.000 2.500 of the island, where one finds some of Sar- 14.000 12.000 2.000 dinia’s most beautiful beaches as well as the 10.000 1.500 most interesting remains of it’s industrial Airports 8.000 history. To get there from Cagliari, or any 6.000 1.000 Airstrips 4.000 of the nearby airfields - we set out from that 500 2.000 at Siliqua (CA06-4 Tana del Volo) - one can Airfields 0 0 cross the vast flat area of Campidano inter- data sected by the River and the SS130 Compiled by the Au- Sardinia has a network of 26 runways most of which are located in the western part of the island, mainly around road that lead to Iglesias (39°18.46’N thor using 6th National 08°32.04’E). This area of Sardinia was historically- char Itinerary Census of Light Avia- Cagliari, Oristano and Alghero. Along the eastern coast, Above, the itinerary tion data one finds Olbia and San Teodoro (north), the airport acterised by the exploitation of its mineral resources and described. of Tortolì (central south) and the airfield of Castiadas mining activities date back over 7000 years. The cities of (south). There are 20 ULM airfields and airports with a Iglesias and Carbonia (39°09.51’N 08°31.22’E) are the mean length higher than the national average. The distri- most representative symbols and emblems of this aspect of Campidano its history. Today most of the mines are disused and along The Campidano bution of private runways and airfields makes it easy to Plateau and (centre) the visit Sardinia by plane and recently airport authorities have the flight from Iglesias to the sea, and throughout the Cathedral of St. Clare tended towards a policy of favouring, welcoming and as- entire area, one can see a great many mining complexes, at Iglesias. Sardinia’s sisting light aircraft traffic, thus boosting the activity. old structures, access roads, homes and excavations whose churches are reminis- silent presence testifies to the past of fatigue, hopes and cent of Spanish styles. Gothic influences are Technical stops also manifest. In the north of the island, the most frequently used and best equipped airfield is that at San Teodoro (San Teodoro NU02-5), an essential technical stop for all those coming

Mines Volasardegna The area’s geology is Volasardegna is an annual event intended to promote flying and the region’s ancient and there are cultural and natural treasures. It involves a number of airfields, that provide hundreds of old mines, some of which were ac- participants with assistance and logistic back-up. It is currently organised as a tive in Phoenician and series of weekly rallies in the period from May to October, but the Organis- Roman times. ers intend to transform VolaSardegna in a single itinerary covering one or more weeks and including accommodation, guided tours, explorations and gastronomic initiatives. For further information: Bonos Olos – 070 831198 - 339 6846900.

138 139 ■ Sardinia On the wing

Siliqua disappointments experienced by Sardinia’s people. A his- little beach of Masua (39°19.57’N 08°25.21’E) stands the The coast at It may look like a vase Dunes of up to 50 of flowers, but this is torical legacy that deserves to be transformed, recovered, monument that best symbolises this coast, known as “Pan metres, Sparto bushes, the 13th century Castle promoted and dedicated to new, modern uses, as has been di Zucchero” or sugarloaf: a splendid rocky islet some a long beach and blue of Acquafredda built by successfully achieved in several cases. 133m high. waters are the character- Count Ugolino della istics of the splendid Gherardesca, who gets The Crags at Masua The desert of the dunes desert at Piscinas, a mention in Dante’s which one encounters “...the From a geological standpoint, the Iglesias area is one of Having passed the Gulf of , after the rocky shores of mouth rose from the Europe’s most ancient regions. To provide a comparison, the coast slopes gently towards more the Gulf of Gonnesa. proud meal...”. when the Padania Plateau was being formed, this area had modest heights and the rock slowly already existed for 100 million years. This fact explains the makes way for the sand. As one heads presence of the mineral resources and the extraordinary northwards, the sand invades the inland coast that our itinerary will explore. area and pushed by the winds it Heading west from Iglesias, one comes to the Gulf of replaces rocks and cliffs and completely Gonnesa: composed of a marvellous, impressive rocky takes over the coastal environment arch with pinky hues, whose ravines are coloured with immediately beyond Capo Pecora strawberry tree, myrtle, lentisk and cisto bushes, it drops (39°27.43’N 08°22.86’E). Along the steep down to the deep, transparent blue waters of the stretch of the “Costa Verde”, known as sea, from which long crags eroded by the water and wind “Piscinas” after the river of the same name that meets the emerge. The oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, who during sea in the middle, one finds an environment completely his life explored the seas and coasts of the whole world, different from that observed just a few minutes earlier. Pis- defined this as the most beautiful of them all. Overlooking cinas is an immense beach of white, crystalline sand (“Is the coast are small mining communities and at the summit Arenas” in Sardinian dialect) that, carried by the mistral of the ridges and in the ravines of the rock one can still see wind, has invaded the inland area for several kilometres, the remains of old laundries, buildings, depots and roads, accumulating in dunes with heights of up to 50 metres. In the legacy of the abandoned mines. Straight opposite the places the sand dunes are covered by bushes of a brilliant

Having passed the Gulf of Gonnesa, the coast becomes less Coastal flora steep, bushes cover the Between the high rocks landscape and beautiful and sandy beaches lies sandy beaches appear. a stretch of coast col- Sand gradually replaces oured by the bushes of the rocks to take over myrtle, strawberry trees the coast around and lentisk criss-cossed Piscinas. by roads and paths.

140 141 The Sugarloaf The Gulf of Gonnesa: a marvellous, mighty arch with pinky hues, whose ravines are coloured by strawberry trees, myrtle, lenisk and cisto bushes that plunges towards the deep, transparent blue sea, from which the crags fashioned by the water and wind emerge. The oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, who dedicated his life to visiting the seas and coasts of the whole world defined this as the most beautiful of them all. The coast is dotted with small mining communities and on the crest of ridges and in the ravines in the rock one finds the remains of ancient mine laundries, constructions, depots and roads. Opposite the beach of Masua towers the monument that best represents this coast, a splendid 133m-high is- land known as the “Sugarloaf”.

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green that contribute to making this beach even more beautiful. These are Sparto Pun- gente plants, a bush that is able to survive in this inhospitable terrain thanks to its deep roots. In the centre of the beach, right next to the mouth of the River Piscinas, is a kind of mirage, a random object belonging to an- other time and place, a splendid hotel, built using the recovery and reuse of old mining products.

The corsairs’ towers Continuing towards the north, one passes the “Corsairs’ Tower”, standing on a rocky headland, before flying once again along the vertical of a long beach of white sand. This tower is but one of the hundreds of build- ings along the Sardinian coast: the complex, structured system of watchtowers that the Spaniards adopted to defend themselves from the attacks and incursions of the pirates who marauded for centuries forcing the coastal in- habitants to retreat inland. On every rocky headland that protrudes into the sea, every available dominant spot, one will find a tower such as this.

The The surprises of this singular coastline never cease. Beyond the dunes at Piscinas, separated and hidden by a long rocky headland, one comes to the Gulf of Oristano close to which there are two runways. One has the choice of landing at the airport of Oristano or the The Aragonese towers. nearby airstrip at Solarussa (Ulcor OR02-4) which it 450 m The Corsair Tower built on a headland of Costa long and 10 km north east of Oristano, in excellent condi- Verde. The towers con- tions and with zero approach on both aprons. stituted an observation The whiteness of the sand dunes of Piscinas and the sparto and defensive system against pirate incursions bushes are replaced here by a lush, widespread, prominent and can be found all green that descends to meet the sea. There is no shortage along the region’s coast. of water, in actual fact the Gulf of Oristano marks the end Above: the vegetation of the large plateau of Campidano that stretches from the covering the rocks. Gulf of Cagliari and develops for 85 km in a diagonal di- rection, marking a clear geographic boundary. Here the Below: left, the recla- River Tirso meets the sea; waters arrive and accumulate, The Lakes mation areas of Sassu having descended from the mountains slopes: the entire Where the fertile plateau of Campidano ends, one comes to Oristano and, right, the hotel at area was once an immense, boggy swamp, most of which Piscinas. (39°53.57’N 08°35.28’E), Cabras (39°55.44’N 08°31.38’E) - pictured, with the Church if St. Mary in the background - (39°52.37’N 08°36.37’E) and a series of small towns, some with ancient roots and others such as Arbo- rea (39°46.17’N 08°34.59’E) that were founded during and after the reclama- tion work. One of the smallest, most picturesque fishing villages is Marceddi (39°43.16’N 08°30.43’E), located on the shores of the lake of the same name, which can be identified from the air by its characteristic houses and the tidily arranged roads that form a lattice opposite the little harbour. North west of Ori- stano one encounters the largest lake and the entire system constitutes a protected environment for its internationally important natural and human features.

144 145 The Sinis Peninsula The northernmost tip of the Gulf of Oristano is Capo San Marco, home to the huge lighthouse after which one comes to the beach of the Sinis Peninsular. The first stretch of coast is long, sandy, white and covered with dunes and paths that provide access. However, its distinctive characteristic is that, just a few metres inland from the dunes, the white of the beach is transformed into a bright green, with splashes of colour and lush glades. As one proceeds northwards, the coast rises up above the sea and takes on a curving shape of geometrical precision that winds for kilometres; a breathtaking, steep and rocky coastline, cut and eroded by the force of the sea that gives way to an immense, green, flat and even plain. The last wet traces of the Sinis system are found after Capo sa Sturàggia with a number of small lakes behind the headland of Capo Mannu.

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Tharros On a sliver of land, dominated by the tower on the hill, lies the ancient city of Tharros, whose remains testify to its past commercial and military history.

The lagoons and the was reclaimed in 1919. The signs of the reclamation work coast are clearly visible in the regular, precise geometry of the The Cabras and Mistras lakes are interconnected cultivated fields, framed by canals and trees that were, in by fish farming struc- this case, assigned to Veneto, Sardinian and Romagna col- their goods and peoples. It was tures constituted by onies. Traces of this area’s boggy past still remain in the wet an important economic centre for the large funnel-shaped traps (above). The coast lands that appear here and there, in the lakes of Marceddi the whole region that reached its here is stony with a and San Giovanni; and those, to the north, of Càbras, greatest glory in the 3rd century clear sea that reflects the Mìstras and Santa Giusta. Their economic value, -espe and was abandoned around the green of the vegetation. cially with regard to the fishing activities, is fully visible year 1000, following the demise from the air thanks to the evidence of the great lavorieri of the Roman Empire and the first (cement barriers and channels used for catching fish) posi- Barbarian invasions. tioned across the channel joining the lakes and the waters of the sea on which the old rush huts have The Lava of Santa Caterina been rebuilt. The first coastal city -one en Oristano counters having left Oristano Cathedral of St. Giusta (12th century) Tharros is Santa Caterina (40°06.15’N Following the line of the gulf, having passed 08°29.38’E): once again, after just the lakes of Cabras and Mistras, on the last a few minutes’ flight, having passed narrow strip of land that separates the inner waters of the Cape Mannu, one has another sur- Gulf from the waters of the open sea, are the remains of prise. The coast of Santa Caterina the ruins of the Phoenician city of Tharros (39°52.60’N changes again, with white, crystal- 08°26.53’E), which we strongly recommend visiting and line rocks that drop down to the that deserves a stop. The view of these ruins from the sea. An immense and fascinating air is clearer than any explanation lava flow that on contact with in expressing all the power and the water was transformed into vitality that this city must have marvellous plastic, clean, almost enjoyed in its golden age. A spec- sculpted, forms. This wonder of tacle that one can even imag- curves, caves and enchanting coves is the result of the ancient volcanic activity of the nearby S’Archittu and Santa ine: Tharros was a port city, Caterina founded by the Phoeni- Mount Ferru (1050 m approximately) that geologists con- After Oristano the coast cians and developed by sider a kind of open-air mineral museum. The water has becomes an immense the Romans, where boats eroded and smoothed these rocks in a particular white lava flow that cre- ates curves and coves. docked from all over the and time has deposited moss and bushes on their surface, Mediterranean, bearing colouring them with every hue of green to make them even more curious, original and attractive. The view over the sea is Oristano Airport Oristano airport has a 1000m long tarmacked runway with 14/32 orienta- such as to guarantee tion and is managed by the company Tharros Tower SA.GE.A.OR. Having been closed to civilian traffic for sometime, it is now being prepared for reopening. For in- formation on approach procedures and updates, contact the local flying club (0783 73511) or the management company (tel: 0783 70301 fax: 0783 775949).

148 149 the presence of the Spanish watchtower “Torre Su Puttu” Bosa The pretty town of Bosa on a headland overlooking the sea. on the banks of the Temo, Sardinia’s only Torre Foghe And Bosa navigable river. Below, Beyond Santa Caterina the coast once again rises above the the itinerary described. waterline, then dips down again to another beach; dunes appear and lakes and in just a few minutes’ flight one comes to the mouth of the Mannu. Here The north-western coastline it is sufficient to take a good look to pick North of the harbour of Bosa, the rocky length of coast that stretches to Alghero out the beautiful runway of is unusual and fascinating. The territory is mountainous, the Mediterranean un- (Torre Foghe OR03-5) arranged in a 12/30 dergrowth is lush and brightly coloured and the mountains border directly with direction, towards the sea, just a short dis- the sea, slashed by a breathtaking panoramic road (below). The first part (above) tance from the edge of the rock that consti- is extremely unusual, made of white volcanic rock that, once again astounds with tutes the coastline. its shapes and colours. This stretch of coast is difficult to get to by land unless one It is an area rich in places of interest and descends from the Provincial road on the rough footpaths. However, the view cities to be visited. A few kilometres away from the air is truly unique. and at an altitude of 500 m, visible due to the pretty church of Saint Mary of the Snow, lies the city of (40°11.12’N 08°34.09’E), founded by the Romans who abandoned the coast to flee from the - fre quent pirate attacks. Throughout the area, one finds the prehistorical archaeological remains that testify to a lengthy human presence and a thriving flint and industry. To the north, lies the city of Bosa (40°18.03’N 08°29.46’E) at the mouth of the River Temo, dominated by the castle constructed by the Tuscan Malaspina family whom the local populations appealed to for help in defending them- On the bank of the selves from the attacks of the corsairs. Bosa has a charm Temo The banks of the Temo are overlooked by the façades of the hand- some buildings of the city of di Bosa.

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Castelsardo lies on the route from Platamona to Valledoria and can be identified by the castle built by the Doria fam- ily between the 12th and 13th centuries.

of its own, created by the handsome buildings that overlook the waters of the River, the inner districts feature a medieval layout, the remains of an old tanning industry, the goldsmiths, cathedral and period of time, the city became the the splendid Malvasia that is produced here. most important stop for the thriv- ing trade with . The city Alghero Alghero (40°33.24’N 08°19.17’E) is a city with cultural is fortified by high bastions and and visual characteristics very similar to Spanish and in towers that enclose a well preserved particular Catalonian cities. The names of the roads and medieval city centre, rich in impor- alleys, for example, are also written in Catalan and even tant architectural works. today the city’s culture is very close to this region of Spain. From Platamona to Valledoria Even the dialect spoken at Alghero is ancient and the result Alghero There are two excellent runways Alghero is linguistically of the cultural symbiosis that the city’s inhabitants enjoyed along Sardinia’s northern coasts: the first close to Sassari The Sardinia of the and culturally close to with Catalonia. The reason for this can be traced back (Platamona SS05-4) and the second at Valledoria (Valledo- plantations and Spain and Catalonia through history: Alghero was founded by the Genoese and, the nurages in particular. The city ria SS04-2). Platamona is an earth strip, about 400 m long Sardinia is not a treat centre is surrounded by after a brief period under the aegis of Pisa, in 1353 the and with 09/27 orientation. It is very handy for those visit- for the beauty of its high walls. It is served Aragonese definitively conquered it and estab- lished a ing Porto Torres (40°50.02’N 08°24.01’E), the most im- coasts alone but also by an airport not far colony of Catalonians. From then on, for a long and especially, its inland from the city. portant harbour in northern Sardinia with much evidence areas conceal splendid to its past as a Roman port and colony. The second stop remains of the nuragic along the north western coast, at Valledoria, is a runway civilisation (above, the with a length of just 280 m with obstacles on both aprons. complex at ). The inland landscape is The stretch of coast between Platamona and Valledoria is dominated by vast cork mainly sandy with a vast area of native pines, sandy dunes plantations, often fash- just beyond the shoreline and farm crops on the inland ioned by the mistral. A landscape reminiscent plain. Later, the beach gives way to the hills that push of the African savannah towards the coast. During the flight, one encounters the (below).

Alghero airport Alghero airport is a civilian facility located about 12 km from the city, in the municipality of Fertilia (at Biancu). It has a 3000 m runway with 02/20 orientation and is open 24 hours a day. Useful numbers: AD Office: 079 935039; handling: 079 935282; MIL office: 079 935046; DCA: 079 935039; ARO/MET: 079 9369065 website: www.aeroporto- dialghero.com One can reach the city easily using either bus or taxi (079 9892028 079 981377) for a cost of 20 Euros (SOGEAAL SpA Regione Nuraghe Biancu 07041 Alghero (SS) Italy - tel.fax +39 079 935282/935219 – email: [email protected] - website: www.aeroportodialghero.it)

152 153 Heading for the eastern coast Anyone who has visited Sardinia thoroughly will agree with me when I say that the island’s inland territory is equally as beautiful, varied and fascinating as that of its coastline. From many standpoints it is even more so. When one penetrates the inland areas, one discovers the heart and true soul of Sardinia. The prairies, cork oaks, daring, wild mountains, tiny villages, deep canyons, the oldest rocks in the world, the patterns of the pebbles, the remote little churches and mighty nuragic fortresses. One encounters an ancient, uncontaminated, proud, bellicose and simple civilisation. A Sardinia that, by some strange paradox of nature, in certain times of the year, closely resembles, not merely from an environmental point of view, the ancient and distant lands of .

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doria, in order to reach the eastern coast, we followed the River, Coghinas to a beautiful group of in- The mouth of the attractive town of Castelsardo (40°55.03’N 08°42.47’E), land lakes. We then passed Posada built on the hillside of a volcanic headland that dominates the Buddusò (Loelle SS09-4) On the mouth of the airfield to land on the good Below, the blue waters Posada the river widens the open sea. Like Alghero, Castelsardo was founded in of San Teodoro, the to create a splendid 1100 by the powerful Genoese family, the Dorias, who rec- runway at San Teodoro (San town of Posada and an marsh area with lush ognised it as being a military point of strategic importance. Teodoro NU02-5). inland landscape. vegetation. The castle was erected between the 12th and the 13th cen- The wetlands of San Teodoro turies and is now home to a weaving museum. From Valle- Just after takeoff from San Teodoro’s run- way 15, one can observe the lagoon sepa- rated from the sea by an elegant, slender strip of crystalline white sand that is the Beach of Cinta. If you turn slightly to the left, beyond the splendid coast, against the dark blue of the sea and the blue of the sky one can see the impressive profile of the island of Tavolara, a mountain of Cinta Beach light coloured limestone with an altitude Below and above right of 500m. The San Teodoro lake covers (opposite) the beauti- ful beach of Cinta: a approximately 200 hectares and was not narrow sliver of land affected by the reclamation work. It is a between the sea and the natural system of important environmen- San Teodoro Lake. tal value lapped by a crystal clear sea that Olbia Emerald Coast Airport is the fortune of these towns. The airport has a 2446 m-long tarmacked runway with 06/24 orientation. It is open 24 hours a day and managed by Geasar SpA (Tel 0789 563400 Fax 0789 563401). The airport’s development was stimulated by Prince Karim Aga Khan who made the airport the base for the airline in 1964. It is currently being enlarged and is the home of the Olbia Emerald Coast Flying Club (Casella postale 131 C.A.P. O7026 OLBIA (SS) Tel. 0789 69000 - Fax 0789 645261 E-mail: [email protected]). Useful numbers: Aviazione Generale - General Aviation [email protected] 0789 563480 - Commerciale / Sales Offices [email protected] 0789 563400 - Direzi- one / General Management [email protected] 0789 563400 - Finanza e Controllo / Administrative Services [email protected] 0789 563400 - Operazioni & Sicurezza / Handling & Security [email protected] 0789 563460-421 (Aeroporto Olbia - 07026 OLBIA (SS) - Informa- tion office: 0789 563444 - e-mail: [email protected])

156 157 In the Gulf of Orosei From Orosei the nature of the terrain and the landscape start to change and a marvellous gulf comes into sight, characterised by with a pinky hue, striped with white, dotted with green bushes and framed by the intense and deep blue of the sea and the blue of a sky whipped by the winds to keep it clear. Beyond the Gulf, inland lies the wild Gennargentu Park and the road leads away from the coast. The landscape here is the same as it was millions of years ago. During this time, the water has altered and eroded the rock to form deep caverns that are kilometres long and some of which are still unexplored. Between caverns enchanting little white coves appear, such as the well known Cala Luna, famous for its white sand and high cliffs, which are popular with the climbers who use it to demonstrate their athletic prowess.

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Arcole VR05 Fantasma 300 45°21,65’ 11°17,68’ 0457612384 - fax 0457612384 0337397083          Arquà Polesine RO04 Corte Bariani 300 45°02,00’ 11°43,54’ 3485226388 0425452051 fax 042527867          Asiago VI06 Asiago 1120 45°53,22’ 11°31,00’ 0424465845          vAsolo e n e toTV02 Asolo Flight 360 45°45,50’ 11°53,75’ 3494495399 330452773          Bassano VI03 Alla Colombara 500 45°45,19’ 11°41,35’ 0424525386 - 500463          Belluno BL05 Belluno 812 46°10,00’ 12°14,88’ Flying Club 043730667          Caerano S. Marco TV05 S. Marco volo 360 45°46,30’ 11°59,77’ 0423858279          VE12 Pegaso 400 45°19,03’ 12°03,35’ 3475890125 3481319841          Caorle VE11 Mazarack 400 45°38,37’ 12°56,64’ 042184119          VE04 Delta club Venezia 450 45°35,66’ 12°16,05’ 3478578064          Casalino di VR03 Volo leggero 500 45°15,20’ 11°11,28’ 045577300          Caselle di VR10 Verona Villafranca 2765 45°23,72’ 10°53,25’ AD Op. 0458095611 DCA 0458619056 ARO 0456332111          VI01 Cassola 480 45°44,57’ 11°48,43’ 0424572016          Cendon TV14 La Canonica 500 45°37,07’ 12°20,89’ 042294544          PD13 Base Bravo 350 45°23,67’ 11°41,93’          PD07 La fattoria 400 45°17,40’ 12°04,52’ 0495841579          Codognè TV10 Butterfly 2 400 45°51,20’ 12°27,34’ 0438430311 3332134121          Di Lusia RO06 Il Pioniere 450 45°05,03’ 11°39,70’ 3487213250-251-252-253          VI02 Le Aquile 200 45°37,44’ 11°34,58’ 0444591372 - 595663 - 596439          Farra di Soligo TV08 Quartier del Piave 300 45°53,59’ 12°08,07’ 0438900026          Fossò VE13 Pranovi 530 45°22,32’ 12°02,23’ 041466472 3357493100          RO01 Vespara Club 350 45°01,14’ 11°36,74’ 042535796          Galliera Veneta PD03 Ali Venete 360 45°39,80’ 11°48,39’ 0495965464          Grave di Papadopoli VE09 Grave di Papadopoli 750 45°47,00’ 12°19,33’ 0438455037          Isola della Scala VR13 Aliveneta 460 45°15,01’ 11°02,16’ 0456649013 3402238610          Isola della Scala VR07 Sq . Avvoltoi 375 45°14,42’ 11°00,36’ 3386166985 - 3385227343          TV16 Istrana 2993 45°41,07’ 12°05,23’          VR09 Legnago 610 45°07,95’ 11°17,55’ Flying Club 044222065 - 3472600890 3386568636          BL06 Malcolm 220 46°16,58’ 12°18,25’          Masera di Padova PD15 Padova sud 180 45°19,46’ 11°52,35’ 049711642          PD17 Area 51 500 45°28,54’ 11°45,38’ 049769674 3472527360          Monselice PD14 Da Domenico 450 45°14,02’ 11°47,51’ 042975171          Montagnana PD09 Montagnana 1000 45°14,47’ 11°25,07’ 0429804212-81992 fax: 0429-81699          Montebelluna TV13 Montebelluna 420 45°45,00’ 12°03,37’ 3471367060          Montegaldella VI05 Montegaldella 650 45°26,67’ 11°39,05’ 0444635048          TV15 F.Baracca 1000 45°50,38’ 12°11,63’ 3403998101          VR01 Aquile randagie 350 45°10,00’ 11°02,10’ 044288961 - 330665230 (Saturdays, Sundays and bank holidays only)          Padova PD11 Padova 1122 45°23,72’ 11°50,90’ Fl. Club 0498718599 AD Off. 0498716355 ARO 0498715600          Piazzola sul Brenta PD01 Il Ranch 620 45°32,50’ 11°45,43’ 0495591198 fax 0499619315          PD04 Colli Euganei 550 45°12,00’ 11°47,67’ 042973787 - 780416 - 0495342071          Pramaggiore VE08 Pravolo 450 45°47,17’ 12°46,80’ 0421200224          VR12 Costermano 250 45°34,53’ 10°46,01’ 0456280024 3356622936          Rovigo RO03 Aeroclub Rovigo 700 45°02,17’ 11°49,43’ tel & fax 0425492219 3407752479          S. Maria di Sala VE03 Villa Farsetti 400 45°30,00’ 12°02,00’ 041487422          S. Stino di LIvenza VE02 Parco Livenza 650 45°44,12’ 12°42,20’ 0421311860          S.Giustina BL08 Fant Air Club 330 46°05,16’ 12°03,09’ 0437858670          Salgareda TV03 G. Carrer 750 45°42,20’ 12°32,18’ 0422804088          San Donà di Piave VE01 Caposile 440 45°33,23’ 12°35,50’ 0421230222          TV04 Mandre 600 45°49,48’ 12°16,44’ 0422435071          Selva del Montello TV06 Ali del Montello 280 45°45,64’ 12°09,80’ 0422582120          Spresiano TV12 Albatros 400 45°46,17’ 12°14,69’ 0422880605          BL03 Pianon 240 46°08,30’ 12°25,49’ 043749012 - 3388860775         

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Thiene VI07 Thiene 900 45°40,50’ 11°29,80’ Flying Club 0445362723          Treviso TV01 Treviso 2460 45°38,87’ 12°11,65’ ARO 0422336266 AD Offices 04223361          Valeggio VR06 ULM Scaligero 250 45°19,08’ 10°42,54’ 337460979- 0456300692          vVenezia e n e toVE05 Venezia-Tessera 3300 45°30,27’ 12°21,12’ ARO 0412612022 AD Ad. 0412605700 AD Op. 3355701566          Venezia Lido VE06 Venezia S. Nicolò 1060 45°25,70’ 12°23,28’ Flying Club 0415260808 A/D Office 0415260823          Verona VR11 Verona Boscomantico 1014 45°28,37’ 10°55,61’ Flying Club 045563200          Vicenza VI08 Vicenza 1500 45°34,37’ 11°31,78’ Flying Club 0444923501 AD 0444927711 ARO 0444923604          Vidor TV09 S.Giuseppe 400 45°51,23’ 12°04,10’ 0423987677 3356037921 fax 0423987107          BL01 Laggio di Cadore 200 46°30,00’ 11°29,00’ 0435509678          Vittorio Veneto TV11 Dream Fly 230 45°55,87’ 12°15,28’ 0438919078 (tel/fax)          Agazzano PC03 Le Merline 360 44°58,32’ 09°28,83’ 0523976629 3356001065          Albareto PR08 Vittorio Bottego 380 44°27,85’ 09°42,97’ 3386065390          Alseno PC06 Ca’ del Conte 720 44°52,02’ 09°56,30’ 0523947043 fax 0523947032          EArgelatoM i l iBO06 a Reno air club 420 44°36,58’ 11°19,36’ 051863782 - 976535 - 3478477607          Bazzano BO07 Le Ali della Libertà 400 44°30,55’ 11°05,59’ 0516702149          PC04 Avegni 150 44°46,75’ 09°20,12’ 3478065270          ROBologna MAGNABO08 Bologna -Borgo Panigale 2450 44°31,83’ 11°17,55’ AD Op. 0516479680 AD Ad. 0516479690 ARO 0516472116          Bologna BO09 Molinella 1000 44°35,57’ 11°39,33’ 051403399 fax 051406812 051882067          Borghetto PC05 Alilafer 300 45°02,02’ 09°47,47’ 3481333450          Busseto PR05 La Torretta 300 44°59,60’ 10°03,52’ 052492312-3358253556          Campogalliano MO05 Campogalliano ulm 380 44°42,24’ 10°51,16’ 059351115 - 059851607          Camposanto MO02 Libellule 400 44°47,83’ 11°09,75’ 053587342 3490670453          Carpi MO08 Willy il coyote 400 44°46,21’ 10°49,91’ 0522849931 - 0536801458 3487130664 3357318006          Carpi MO10 Carpi/Budrione 850 44°50,24’ 10°53,14’ Flying Club 059660080          Castelfranco Emilia MO04 Gaggio di Piano 380 44°39,38’ 11°00,00’ 3472459520          Cento FE07 Alberone 400 44°48,63’ 11°19,33’ 0516841115 0516841876          Cervia RA08 Cervia 3051 44°13,45’ 12°18,43’          Cesena FC04 Settecrociari 500 44°08,28’ 12°11,38’ 0547302145          Codigoro FE04 Azienda Corbetta 700 44°48,23’ 12°06,24’ 0533710255          Codigoro FE03 Valle Gaffaro 900 44°50,00’ 12°13,93’ 3407343905          Crespellano BO10 Amici con le ali 385 44°32,33’ 11°08,54’ 051751088 3285308387 3402803750          Faenza RA01 Aerlight Faenza 380 44°20,13’ 11°55,60’ 054647167          Ferrara FE05 Ferrara 900 44°48,92’ 11°36,82’ Flying Club 053291655          Ferrara FE02 Aguscello 700 44°47,38’ 11°40,17’ A/D Office 0532718550- 763524-763524          Fontanellato PR07 San Benedetto 400 44°52,45’ 10°13,10’ 3385427757 3382505670 0521821081          Forlì FC01 Villafranca 800 44°17,28’ 12°01,34’ 0543764260          Gragnano PC02 Aero Club Piacenza 800 45°00,00’ 09°35,00’ 0523788148          Granarolo BO02 Delta culture club 290 44°34,13’ 11°27,12’ 051760593          Imola BO03 Elio Zambrini 650 44°26,13’ 11°43,88’ 054255492 3472648196          Imola BO01 Amanti Volo Ultraleggero 320 44°20,00’ 11°39,83’ 0542641185 (also fax) - mobile 3392296674          Lugo RA04 Avioclub 450 44°30,01’ 11°56,40’ 3486719811 fax:054552950          Medicina BO04 V. C. Italiano ULM 1000 44°30,82’ 11°35,40’ 051853949 337554100 fax 051853964          Mercato Saraceno FC02 Achille 450 43°58,95’ 12°06,75’ 0547693166          Miramare Rimini RN01 Rimini 2996 44°01,25’ 12°36,73’ ARO 0541719416 AD Op. 0541715820 AD Ad. 0541719111          Modena MO11 Modena Marzaglia 800 44°38,03’ 10°48,38’ A/D Office tel/fax 059389090          Ozzano dell’Emilia BO05 Aerdelta 850 44°28,50’ 11°32,50’ 051795010 fax:051795118          Parma PR01 Aviodelta Felino 600 44°42,63’ 10°15,00’ 3336239245          Parma PR03 Parma 1900 44°49,03’ 10°17,07’ ARO 0521919001 AD 05219515 Flying Club 0521980204          Pavullo MO12 Pavullo 900 44°19,18’ 10°49,55’ 0536324613 - fax 0536308835          Piacenza PC07 Piacenza 2996 44°54,78’ 09°43,40’          Piacenza PC01 Ali Piacenza 600 45°01,55’ 09°36,25’ 337603451          Pieve di Cento BO12 Ass. Sportiva Phoenix 380 44°44,86’ 11°20,49’ 3382069253         

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Municipality Code field name Length latitude longitude useful Numbers F W H R H P T E F

Pontelagoscuro FE06 Club Ferrarese 300 44°52,80’ 11°37,70’ 3389345754          Portomaggiore FE09 Verginese 500 44°69,08’ 11°76,26’ 0532768143 3482618132          Poviglio RE02 S. Sisto di Poviglio 450 44°50,80’ 10°30,30’ 3386437729          ERavarinoM i l iMO01 a Avioclub Ravarino 700 44°44,90’ 11°05,00’ 059903252          Ravenna RA06 Ravenna 1200 44°22,00’ 12°13,40’ Flying Club 0544497874 - 497886 fax 0544 497804          Ravenna RA03 Ali di classe 700 44°19,42’ 12°18,47’ 0544927246 - 0544939336 (bar Rio)          ROReggio EmiliaM AGNARE01 Reggio Emilia 1400 44°41,94’ 10°39,75’ A/D Office 0522511650 Flying Club 0522920464- 0522501413          Ronco Forlì FC03 Forlì 2410 44°11,60’ 12°04,10’ AD Ad. 0543780090 ARO 0543475401 AD Op. 0543474990          S. Felice sul MO06 Campo volo S.Felice 380 44°49,80’ 11°07,47’ 3339622222 3382824996          S. Possidonio MO09 Deltaland 600 44°52,18’ 10°58,48’ 053536005 fax 0376529301          Salsomaggiore Terme PR02 Club l’Altro Volo 600 44°49,67’ 10°00,62’ 0524574045          San Clemente RN03 Forti e Liberi 300 43°54,75’ 12°36,28’ 0541957569 - 646211 3477576610          Santarcangelo di R. RN02 Santarcangelo 495 44°01,40’ 12°24,30’ 0541688177 - 0541740099 - 3387267262- 3393240757          Sassuolo MO07 Sassuolo 1000 44°34,58’ 10°46,85’ 0536806651- 806348 bar-restaurant          Sesto Imolese RA07 Gli 510 44°27,82’ 11°47,26’ 3398973788          Sissa PR04 Ali del Po 500 44°58,23’ 10°17,66’ 0521671481 3388072418          Solignano PR06 Aviosuperficie di Rubbiano 700 44°40,11’ 10°03,33’ 0525400036 330617295 0525406830          Vigarano FE10 Icaro Village 460 44°50,78’ 11°29,05’ 3392854870 0532737026          Villa S. Martino RA05 Lugo di Romagna 800 44°23,85’ 11°51,30’ Flying Club 054576028 76400 fax 054576577          Zola Predosa BO11 Arcobaleno 360 44°29,46’ 11°14,37’ 051593384          Arezzo AR03 Arezzo 750 43°27,32’ 11°50,83’ Flying Club 0575324282 0575351279 fax          FI02 Avios.Galliano 740 43°59,41’ 11°17,46’ 0558428373 - fax 0558428373          Borgo S. Lorenzo FI03 Collina 800 43°59,36’ 11°23,49’ 0558408809 - 0558408018 Weekends & bank hols.          TUSCANYCampiglia M. LI08 Delta Club Ibis 270 43°01,38’ 10°36,67’ 3498682572          Campiglia Marittima LI06 Val di Cornia Affitti 230 42°59,79’ 10°36,02’ 3389350852 0565227460          Campo nell’Elba LI04 -Isola d’Elba 1195 42°45,71’ 10°14,45’ A/D Office 0565976011 Fax: 0565976008          Capannoli PI04 Aero club Valdera 700 43°35,31’ 10°41,44’ Flying Club Off. 0587608124 0587606859 Flight line          Capannori LU02 LuccaTassignano 910 43°49,65’ 10°34,72’ Flying Club 0583935148 0583936062 AD Office 0583935501          LI01 Delta club Donoratico 340 43°11,33’ 10°33,23’ 0565777596 777427          Castiglion Fiorentino AR06 Montecchio Podere S. Lucia 820 43°17,72’ 11°54,43’ tel/fax 0575652312 3478347843          Castiglion Fiorentino AR04 Centro di volo Serristori 520 43°19,54’ 11°51,31’ 3386703248 - 057597614          Castiglione della Pescaia GR02 870 42°50,30’ 10°49,19’ 3284880809 3334234250          AR05 Valle al Pero 650 43°31,59’ 11°28,40’ 0559169006 9128869 3397742853          Cecina LI05 Cecina 500 43°17,17’ 10°31,72’ 0586761901 3471971815          Cinigiano GR07 S.Rita 285 42°57,64’ 11°21,39’ 0564966883 3382875884          Colle di val d’Elsa SI04 700 43°22,11’ 11°07,30’ 3357068430 fax:0577922042          LI09 Sport Aeronautici 700 43°37,76’ 10°29,01’ 330979294 3396972704 0586802251 0586857530 fax          Empoli FI01 Empoli 330 43°43,49’ 10°59,01’ 0571993387          Firenze FI04 Firenze 1688 43°48,48’ 11°12,18’ AD Op. 05530615 ARO/MET 0553372400 AD Ad. 055317123          Grosseto GR06 Grosseto 2994 42°45,65’ 11°04,25’          Grosseto GR04 Terra del sole 420 42°46,27’ 11°09,20’ 0564402038 3336842102          GR05 Flying Buttero 250 42°31,03’ 11°19,20’ 0564606559 3382411734          Massa MS01 Massa Cinquale 720 43°59,12’ 10°08,58’ AD Office 0585808488 fax 0585309088          GR08 Vivoli 230 42°59,57’ 10°48,38’ 056652608          Massarosa LU04 Delta Condor 360 43°52,04’ 10°18,04’ 335286661          PI03 Consalvo 1000 43°07,00’ 10°44,00’ 0565784238          Orbetello GR01 Costa d’argento 780 42°29,68’ 11°14,36’ 0564871141 - 3292580804          Peccioli PI09 Pratello 1000 43°33,30’ 10°45,20’ 0587630024 3485617431          Pievefosciana LU03 Pianetto 400 44°08,00’ 10°24,00’ 0583666222 Fax:666393          Piombino LI07 Condor 550 42°58,21’ 10°37,57’ 056657568 3289777422          Pisa PI06 Le Prata 200 43°44,68’ 10°24,21’ 050552969 3403119105          Pontedera PI05 Pisa 2792 43°40,98’ 10°23,67’ AD Ad. 050928111 ATS 050928111 ARO 050928350         

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Municipality Code field name Length latitude longitude useful Numbers F W H R H P T E F

Quarrata PT01 Il pinguino 430 43°52,18’ 10°56,41’ 0573734376          S. Vincenzo LI02 Il gabbiano 700 43°03,05’ 10°33,07’ 0565701279 0565701648          S. Vincenzo LI03 Sky Sport Europe 500 43°05,55’ 10°33,46’ 03472522152 0565705206          TUSCANY          Valdarno AR02 Il Borro 900 43°32,45’ 11°42,15’ 055977841 San Sepolcro AR01 Palazzolo Avio 875 43°33,72’ 12°09,16’ fax 0575740394 - 3356492831          GR03 Dedalo 400 42°55,65’ 10°50,31’ 056635393 3333311846          Sinalunga SI02 Valdichiana 900 43°12,92’ 11°49,26’ fax 0577393576 - Off. 3397551272          SI01 Siena 1262 43°15,48’ 11°15,33’ Sales Off. 0577580031 UCT 0577349326 AD 0577349157          Borghetto Vara SP02 Alivara ULM 260 44°13,37’ 09°43,21’ 3683308529 0187894501          Genova GE01 Genova Sestri 2925 44°24,78’ 08°50,27’ ARO 0106015332 AD Op. 0106015414 AD Ad. 0106015225          Genova GE02 Calvari 150 44°22,58’ 09°17,38’ 3356465681          LIGURIASarzana SP01 Sarzana 900 44°05,00’ 09°59,00’ Flying club tel/fax 0187673180          Stellanello SV02 Campo Volo Delta 360 44°00,07’ 08°04,33’ 3356342979 fax:0183494135 335372935          Villanova d’Albenga SV01 Villanova d’Albenga 1429 44°02,02’ 08°07,58’ ARO/MET Office 01825851201 Aeroclub 0182582919          Alghero SS02 Alghero - Fertilia 3000 40°37,83’ 08°17,33’ A/D Of. 079935039 ARO/MET 0799369065 DCA 079935039          Ardara SS12 Gentlemen flying club 450 40°37,57’ 08°52,24’ 3388510518          Buddusò SS09 Loelle 400 40°34,22’ 09°19,40’ 079715484 3483705711 3476012197          SARDINIACastiadas CA09 Antica Sardegna 850 39°16,03’ 09°32,29’ 0709949244 - 0330711851          Decimo Putzu CA05 Sa Doda 630 39°21,65’ 08°52,01’ 070965059 3475281962          CA12 Decimomannu 2991 39°21,25’ 08°58,35’          CA07 Cagliari Elmas 2803 39°14,78’ 09°03,45’ ARO 07021124004-5 AD Ad. 07021021          Gesico CA03 Argiolas Noas 350 39°37,33’ 09°06,12’ 070881401-3382359846          CA04 Maracalagonis 400 39°16,38’ 09°15,25’ 070814529 070882726 3488911418          Mores SS10 Ciondolo number one 400 40°33,55’ 08°49,13’ 3471664142 3281395979          Olbia SS03 Olbia Costa Smeralda 2446 40°53,59’ 09°31,07’ MET 0789644607 AD 078969228 ARO 0789644606          Oristano OR01 Oristano 1000 39°53,62’ 08°38,45’ 078373511          Orosei OR04 Volo Sportivo Orosei 360 40°24,81’ 09°43,01’ 0784285298 3471742183          SS01 Il volo 500 40°25,30’ 08°41,21’ 3487842156 079801930          CA10 Ultralight Pula 300 38°57,44’ 08°57,55’ 3470342280 070921332          S.Gavino Monreale CA11 Monreale 280 39°35,00’ 08°46,20’ 0709158065 3401585091          San Teodoro NU02 San Teodoro 500 40°48,17’ 09°39,58’ 3473701567 fax:0784865060          Sassari SS05 Platamona 400 40°48,49’ 08°28,07’ 3332543639          CA02 Avios.del Parteolla 780 39°24,07’ 09°08,40’ 335392391 - 3287141599          Serdiana CA08 Oasi Del Volo 650 39°24,34’ 09°10,23’ 070743166          Settimo S. Pietro CA01 Amici dell’Aria 435 39°19,73’ 09°08,78’ 070571987 - 3392054345          Siliqua CA06 SA PI La Tana del volo 200 39°16,16’ 08°46,10’ 337819036 - 0781781000          Solarussa OR02 Ulcor 450 39°58,50’ 08°40,48’ 0783212669 - 3293609237          SS08 L’Aviatore 500 40°32,18’ 08°36,15’ 3471664142          Tortoli NU01 Tortoli - Arbatax 1188 39°55,08’ 09°41,00’ 0782624900-624300          Tresnuraghes OR03 Torre Foghe 520 40°10,95’ 08°28,20’ 078535502 3386310540          Valledoria SS04 Valledoria 280 40°55,81’ 08°48,80’ 079582108 3358213151         

Municipality: location of runway; Code: “Avioportolano® Italia” code constituted by the province code availability of a service in the immediate vicinity; Events: indicates presence/absence of events and/or followed by a progressive number; Length: length of runway in metres; Coordinates: coordinates are rallies in general organised annually; Farm holiday fac.: indicates the presence of farm holiday facilities expressed in degrees and hundredths; Telephone numbers: telephone numbers for contacts. Airport in the vicinity. telephone numbers were obtained from A.I.P. Italia in January 2004. Amenities Flying School: ticked box indicates the presence of a Flying School or the possibility of chartering aircraft or tourism flights; Workshop: indicates whether the runway has facilities or workshop for light The information provided herein was gathered during the “6th Light Aviation structure Census” con- maintenance; Hangar: indicates presence/absence of aircraft hangars; Refreshments: indicates presence/ ducted in January 2004 and published in the volume entitled “Avioportolano® Italia – Guida al Volo absence inside or in the immediate vicinity of restaurants, hotels or similar facilities; turistico e sportivo 2004/2005”. It has subsequently been updated with information received by the and taxi: public transport means presence of nearby bus stops for the nearest city. Taxi indicates the Avioportolano Italia Office and may therefore not be completely accurate.

166 167 Guido Medici is one of Italy’s leading amateur pilots. He has worked as a town planner in the territorial planning and research fields for a number of regional and municipal authorities and public and private research centres. He started flying in 1974, as a pastime and a passion, using craft from Venice Flying Club, where he obtained his private pilot’s licence. He subsequently developed an interest in gliding and ultralight aircraft and is a qualified federation instructor in these disciplines. He has published a number of flying manuals and books with Ugo Mursia Editore: “Sulle ali di Dedalo – Introduzione al volo libero in delta- plano” (1984) for 10 years the official handbook of the Italian Hang Gliding Association; followed by “Volare Ultraleggeri – Storia Teoria e Pratica del volo con l’Aeroplano ultraleggero e con il deltaplano a motore” ( 1986) and “Il Volo – Dodici modi diversi di volare” (1988). He has published a number of technical volumes and handbooks with other publishers. Between 1987 and 1999, he founded and edited the monthly magazines “Il VOLO” and “Ali & Motori”. He is a contribu- tor to leading Italian and international flying journals. In conjunction with Touring Club Italiano, Istituto Geografico de Agostini and the Ital- ian Airforce’s Centro Informazioni Geotopografiche, he has edited and published more than 15 aeronautical maps for amateur and VFR flying. He edits the “Avioportolano Italia – Guida alla navigazione aerea da diporto” series and the publication of the national amateur flying aviation charts.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be copied or transmitted in any form and using any electronic, chemical or mechanic medium, including photocopies, filing and data research systems, without prior written permission from the copyright holders or other entitled party. The aeronautical information provided in this volume is not official. The publisher, editor and contributors decline all responsibility for inaccuracy.

All corrections and/or suggestions regarding this guide are welcome and should be addressed to: E.I.L. – Via F.lli Bandiera 76 – 30175 Marghera Venezia email: [email protected]

Photographs on page 87 courtesy of Angelo Casentini

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