Bears on Move, Fall Shuffle Has Begun

NPS PHOTO BY ELIZABETH DUPREE

Free Ranger-led Walks & Talks—Pgs 10-12

The Official Newspaper of Great Smoky Mountains National Park e autumn 2014 BILL LEA PHOTO BILL LEA PHOTO

Frankfort 64 Louisville 64 64 77

Lexington 23 65 WV Beckley 64 Owensboro Richmond Elizabethtown NA TC HER 75 81 PKWY 80 77 Y KY W K Blueﬁeld E P Roanoke ON BO FALL COLORS EL NI Radford DA 80 The John Oliver Cabin in Cades Cove was built in 1821, three years AND BERL PKW UM Y after the first family of settlers arrived and nearly starved to death. Glasgow C Somerset Bowling 23 VA Green The Great Smoky Moun- 81 Every year approximately 1,600 black bears and nine million humans Cherokee, Olivers Had tains boast 100 species of 65 share Great Smoky Mountains National Park’s 800 square mile area. Kingsport Bristol 77 native trees, making this Thanksgiving in Cove 24 75 26 Johnson City Bears On Move, Fall national park a cornucopia hen John and Lucretia grow any crops. They had no Lebanon Morristown 81 WWiinston-Snston-Salem Greensboro Nashville Cookeville WOliver crossed over milk cow or cattle or sheep. 23 High Rich Mountain into Cades Lucretia was especially ner- Oak NC 40 Shuffle Has Begun of fall colors. Along the 40 Knoxville Point Ridge 40 Cove in the fall of 1818, they vous about the Cherokee who 40 66 Statesville Murfreesboro uring fall, the success be killed as they leave park high ridges and mountain had no shortage of wor- hunted and gathered wild 129 441 Sevierville 26 Hickory 321 Dof bears in the Great boundaries and encounter ries. For one, they had their foods in the rich valley. 321 85 321 Columbia Gatlinburg 40 Smoky Mountains depends busy highways, hunters, and tops, trees begin changing one-year-old daughter Mary According to Lucretia, TN Townsend 441 almost entirely on what bi- protective land owners. in tow. For two, they were the family nearly starved that Cherokee 19 Asheville 24 411 ologists call the “mast crop.” It is especially important in mid-September. The peak headed into a wilderness winter. In fact, they may well 75 Gastonia 129 Great Smoky They divide mast into two in fall to keep people-food with very limited supplies, no have perished if not for the 65 Charlotte groups, soft (blackberries, away from bears. Hungry Mountains 26 of fall color in the valleys shelter, and a narrow range Cherokee. Cleveland 85 cherries, grapes, blueberries, bears that get people-food of skills (John was a charcoal “The Cherokees generous- Chattanooga 19 441 National Park Rock etc.) and hard (acorns, hickory and garbage lose their wild- and coves is usually in late maker by trade and Lucretia ly brought them dried pump- 64 Hill Spartanburg nuts, and beech nuts). ness and are threats to people, an orphan who worked as a kins which kept them alive 76 Greenville 411 In good mast years, bears property, and themselves. servant). until spring,” writes Dunn in Athens 76 October or early November. 26 may gain 3-5 pounds per Habituated bears are Dalton 77 For three, Cades Cove Cades Cove: the Life and Death 385 129 76 day just by gobbling acorns easy targets for poachers and Sunny days and cool nights was owned and occupied (at of a Southern Appalachian Huntsville 72 SC Anderson Scottsboro 75 and berries. They will retire are often hit by cars or must least seasonally) by Cherokee Community. Like the Pilgrims Decatur GA 411 5 23 178 to their winter dens fat and be euthanized because they are thought to nurture the Indians and the Olivers were at Plymouth two centuries be- Fort Payne 441 85 Florence happy, and pregnant females threaten visitors and property. trespassing. fore, the hapless newcomers AL Gainesville 26 20 Greenwood are likely to emerge in spring To help protect bears and The Olivers spent their were rescued by the people Cullman 59 best colors. 575 985 with two or more cubs. people in the Smokies, please Cartersville first night in Cades Cove they would soon displace. Gadsden In bad years, many bears clean up your camp or picnic in “an abandoned Indian After surviving the first Athens Columbia will perish and there will be area as soon as you are fin- hut” according to historian winter, John’s brother brought 65 Marietta 25 95 few cubs come spring. ished eating. Put garbage in Durwood Dunn. They then cattle and the Olivers became 78 Douglasville Atlanta 441 20 26 To gain enough weight to bear-proof dumpsters or cans. proceeded to build a crude legal landowners. Their sec- Anniston 20 Orangeburg survive the winter, bears must At your rental cabin, never wooden shelter as winter ond cabin, built in 1821, still Covington 0 30 20 range far and wide for food, leave food out for bears, descended. stands in Cades Cove where Birmingham 75 © GSMA 2012 59 miles Augusta an annual frenzy labeled “the including pet food and bird Unwisely, the Olivers had it is preserved by the National fall shuffle.” Some bears will seed. arrived in the cove too late to Park Service. smokies trip planner to order maps, apps, and guides: www.SmokiesInformation.org

accommodations pets in the park

Le Conte Lodge (accessible by Pets are allowed in frontcoun-

BILL LEA PHOTO trail only) provides the only try campgrounds and beside lodging in the park. Call (865) roads as long as they are 429-5704. restrained at all times. Pets For information on lodg- are not allowed on park trails, smokies guide ing outside the park: except for the Gatlinburg Bryson City 1-800-867-9246 and Oconaluftee River trails. Smokies Guide is produced Cherokee 1-800-438-1601 Dogs on these trails must be Fontana 1-800-849-2258 leashed. four times per year by Great Gatlinburg 1-800-267-7088 Smoky Mountains Asso- Maggie Valley 1-800-624-4431 facility rentals ciation and Great Smoky Pigeon Forge 1-800-251-9100 Mountains National Park. Sevierville 1-888-766-5948 The historic Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence Cabin Publication dates are roughly Townsend 1-800-525-6834 at Elkmont are now accepting as follows: reservations for day-use rentals. Picnic pavillions are also SPRING: March 15 available for $10-$20 per day SUMMER: June 1 at Collins Creek, Cosby, Deep AUTUMN: September 15 Creek, Greenbrier, Metcalf Bottoms, and Twin Creeks. WINTER: December 1 To make a reservation, call Abrams Creek and Balsam Mountain campgrounds are open this year. ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY 1-877-444-6777 or visit www. Contributing Editors camping in the national park recreation.gov. Steve Kemp & Kent Cave The National Park Service advance. special events NPS Coordinator maintains developed camp- The list below shows Elizabeth Dupree grounds at nine locations in number of sites, elevations, September 20 Editorial Board the park. There are no show- fees, approximate 2014 opera- Mountain Life Festival at Karen Ballentine ers or hookups other than tion dates, and maximum RV Oconaluftee Visitor Center Coralie Bloom circuits for special medical lengths. Visit www.nps.gov/ September 27 Lynda Doucette uses at Cades Cove, Elkmont, grsm for more information. and Smokemont. ABRAMS CREEK 16 sites, Wilderness Act Celebration at Kristine Johnson Bicycle morning in Cades Cove Campsites at Elkmont, elev. 1,125’, $14, open May 23- Sugarlands Visitor Center John MacGaha Smokemont, Cataloochee, Oct. 13, 12’ trailers Terry Maddox Cosby, and Cades Cove BALSAM MOUNTAIN 46 bicycling December 13 may be reserved. For reser- sites, elev. 5,310’, $14, open Festival of Christmas Past at Most park roads are too vations call 1-877-444-6777 May 23-Oct. 13, 30’ RVs Sugarlands Visitor Center Contributors narrow and heavily traveled or contact www.recreation. BIG CREEK 12 sites, elev. Lisa Horstman, Karen Key by automobiles for safe or gov. Sites may be reserved 1,700’, $14, open April 11-Oct. enjoyable bicycling. However, picnic areas up to six months in advance. 26, tents only Cades Cove Loop Road is © 2014 Great Smoky Reservations are required at CADES COVE 159 sites, elev. Please see pages 8-9 for lo- an exception. This 11-mile, Mountains Association Cataloochee Campground. 1,807’, $17-$20, open year- cations of picnic areas. All pic- one-way, paved road pro- Other park campgrounds are round, 35’-40’ RVs nic areas have charcoal grills vides bicyclists with excellent first-come, first-serve. CATALOOCHEE 27 sites, for cooking. GSMA opportunities for viewing Site occupancy is limited elev. 2,610’, $20, open P.O. Box 130 wildlife and historic sites. visitor centers to six people and two vehicles March 14-Oct. 31, reserva- Gatlinburg, TN 37738 Helmets are required for (a trailer = 1 vehicle). The tions required, 31’ RVs persons age 16 and under and Park visitor centers offer maximum stay is 14 days. COSBY 157 sites, elev. 2,459’, are strongly recommended for information, exhibits, and a Special camping sites for $14, April 11-Oct. 31, 25’ RVs all bicyclists. bookstore. Fall hours of oper- large groups are available sea- DEEP CREEK 92 sites, elev. From May 7-Sept. 24, ation are: sonally at Big Creek, Cades 1,800’, $17, open April 11-Oct. on Wednesday and Satur- Oconaluftee: 8-6:30 (Sept. & Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, 31, 26’ RVs day mornings from sunrise Oct.), 8-5 (Nov.) Deep Creek, Elkmont, and ELKMONT 220 sites, elev. to 10:00 a.m., only bicycles Sugarlands: 8-6:30 (Sept. & Smokemont. Group sites must 2,150’, $17-$23, open March printed on recycled paper and pedestrians are allowed Oct.), 8-5 (Nov). be reserved. Call 1-877-444- 14-Nov. 29, 32’-35’ RVs on Cades Cove Loop Road. Cades Cove: 9-6:30 (Sept & 6777 or contact www.recre- SMOKEMONT 142 sites, elev. Bicycles may be rented at the Oct), 9-5:30 (Nov.) ation.gov. Group sites may 2,198’, $17-$20, open year- Cades Cove Campground Clingmans Dome 10-6:00 be reserved up to one year in round, 35’-40’ RVs store. (Sept. & Oct.), 9:30-5 (Nov.)

2 v smokies guide, Autumn 2014 park information for additional information, visit www.nps.gov/grsm

Gatlinburg, TN elev. 1,462’ Mt. Le Conte elev. 6,593’

Avg. High low Precip. Avg. High low Precip. DRIVING Jan. 49° 27° 4.0” 36° 18° 6.7” DISTANCES &

Feb. 53° 28° 4.1” 37° 19° 5.6” ESTIMATED PHOTO JIM MOWBRAY March 62° 35° 5.5” 44° 25° 7.0” TIMES April 71° 42° 4.5” 52° 31° 6.7” May 77° 50° 5.7” 58° 39° 8.0” June 82° 58° 5.8” 64° 47° 8.7” Cherokee, NC to: July 85° 62° 6.3” 67° 50° 9.0” Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) Aug. 84° 61° 5.3” 67° 49° 7.6” Cades Cove: 57 miles (2 hours) Sept. 79° 55° 4.7” 62° 44° 7.2” Newfound Gap: 18 miles Oct. 70° 43° 2.9” 55° 35° 4.7” (½ hour) Nov. 60° 34° 3.4” 46° 27° 6.8” Clingmans Dome: Dec. 51° 28° 4.6” 38° 20° 6.4” 25 miles (¾ hour) The above temperature and precipitation averages are based on data for Cataloochee: 39 miles the last 20 years. Temperatures are in degrees fahrenheit. An annual av- (1½ hours) erage of over 84” (7 feet) of precipitation falls on the higher elevations Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) of the Smokies. On Mt. Le Conte, an average of 82.8” of snow falls. Primitive backcountry shelters like this one at Double Springs Gap are Gatlinburg, TN to: horse riding located along the Appalachian Trail and near the summit of Mt. Le Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) Conte. Reservations and permits are required for backcountry campers. Horseback riding is generally Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) Backcountry Camping in the Smokies available from early March Newfound Gap: 16 miles through November. Rates are (½ hour) Camping at a backcountry Center, two miles south of $30 per hour. Most stables campsite or shelter can be an Gatlinburg on U.S. 441. (865) have maximum rider weight Clingmans Dome: MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY exciting adventure for per- 436-1297. limits of 225 or 250 pounds 23 miles (¾ hour) sons properly equipped and 3. Make your reservation and and age restrictions for chil- Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours) informed. To facilitate this ac- obtain your permit through dren. Please call the stables Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles tivity, the National Park Ser- the backcountry office at below or stop at a visitor cen- (¼ hour) vice maintains over 800 miles Sugarlands Visitor Center (by ter for detailed information. Deep Creek: of trails and more than 100 phone or in person) or online backcountry campsites and at www.smokiespermits.nps. Cades Cove (865) 448-9009 48 miles (1½ hours) shelters throughout the park. gov. cadescovestables.com One of the greatest challenges Reservations and permits Smokemont (828) 497-2373 Townsend, TN to: for backcountry campers is are required for all overnight smokemontridingstables.com Fishing for brook trout is now Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) deciding where to go. Here stays in the backcountry. Smoky Mtn. (865) 436-5634 allowed in most park streams. Newfound Gap: 34 miles are some tools to help. The cost is $4 per person per smokymountainridingstables. (1¼ hours) 1. Go online to view the night. Reservations may be com fishing park’s official trail map made up to 30 days in ad- Sugarlands (865) 436-3535 Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) Fishing is permitted year- (www.nps.gov/grsm/plan- vance. sugarlandsridingstables.com Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) round in the park, but a yourvisit/maps.htm), which Fall hikers should be es- Hayrides and carriage Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) Tennessee or North Carolina shows all park trails, camp- pecially aware of the danger rides ($12 per person) are Cataloochee: fishing license is required. sites, and shelters. Park rules of hypothermia—the lower- available from Cades Cove Either state license is valid 87 miles (2¼ hours) and regulations are also listed ing of body temperature. The Riding Stable. Wagon rides throughout the park and no here. If you wish, you can combination of rain, cold, and ($10 per person) are offered at trout stamp is required. A purchase the printed version wind is especially dangerous. Smokemont. Souvenir photos, special permit is required for of the trail map for $1 by stop- At the park’s higher eleva- tee-shirts, hats, and ice may the Cherokee Reservation and ping at any park visitor center tions, hypothermia can be a be available. Soft drink vend- Gatlinburg. Licenses are avail- or calling (865) 436-7318 x226 threat even during summer. ing is available. able in nearby towns. Fishing or shopping online at www. To prevent hypothermia, The park service operates with bait is prohibited. SmokiesInformation.org. carry good rain gear at all horse camps at Cades Cove, A free fishing map with a 2. Call or stop by the park’s times. Layer clothing that Big Creek, Cataloochee, and complete list of all park fish- backcountry office, which is provides warmth when wet Round Bottom. Call 877-444- ing regulations is available at open daily from 8-5, for trip (not cotton). Be prepared for 6777 or visit www.Recreation. visitor centers. planning help. The office is sudden weather changes, es- gov for reservations. located in Sugarlands Visitor pecially at the high elevations.

smokies guide, Autumn 2014 v 3 great sights to see A dozen must-see sights in the Great Smoky Mountains KENT CAVE PHOTO KENT CAVE

WHERE TO BEAT THE CROWDS

Road Closed If you want to beat the autumn weekend crowds, The observation tower atop the try some of these off-the- Smokies highest peak, 6,643’. beaten-path destinations.

Waterrock Knob 9. Look Rock walking trail 1. clingmans dome and tower. Great views, just off the Foothills Park- A paved, but very steep, 0.5 way West, 18 miles from mile trail leads to an obser- Townsend, TN. vation tower that offers 360° views of the Great Smoky of Gatlinburg, TN on U.S. 441. The Deep Creek area features 10. Cataloochee Valley. Mountains and beyond. To get Highlights include flora and a campground, picnic area, This remote area is accessi- there: turn off Newfound Gap fauna exhibits, a 20-minute mountain stream, and miles of ble only by narrow, winding film in the surround-sound hiking trails. Around 2 miles Road 0.1 mile south of New- BILL LEA PHOTO secondary roads. But when theater, an information desk, found Gap and follow the of walking will acquaint you you arrive, there are elk to and bookstore. Several short 7-mile-long Clingmans Dome with beautiful Deep Creek and watch, historic buildings Road to the large parking area nature trails also begin at the three pretty waterfalls (Juney center, as do ranger-led walks to explore, and plenty of at the end. A visitor center is Whank, Tom Branch, and and talks. Open 8-6:30 (Sept.- trails to walk. 39 miles from located along the trail to the Indian Creek). The trails to the Oct.), 8-5 (Nov.) Cherokee; 65 miles from tower. waterfalls start from the large Gatlinburg. The road to Clingmans 4. water-powered parking area at the end of Dome is closed from Decem- Deep Creek Road (across the 11. Cosby Campground, ber 1 through March 31 due to grist mills creek from Deep Creek Camp- Picnic Area, and hiking weather. ground). The area is located trails. The campground rare- 2. andrews bald Two historic, water-powered The Davis-Queen house at the about 3 miles from downtown ly fills, and there are short grist mills operate 7 days per Mountain Farm Museum. Bryson City, NC. and long trails to waterfalls, week in the park from mid- views, and Mt. Cammerer “Balds” are mountaintop March to mid-November. 6. oconaluftee 8. blue ridge fire tower. The campground meadows of mysterious ori- Cable Mill sits in Cades Cove is 20 miles from Gatlinburg, gin. Andrews offers panoram- (halfway around the one-way museums parkway TN. ic mountain views in favor- loop road). Mingus Mill is 2 able weather. The 3.4 mile miles north of Cherokee, NC This history buff’s paradise The Blue Ridge Parkway starts roundtrip hike to Andrews 12. Fontana Dam and Lake. on U.S. 441 (Newfound Gap now offers free indoor and where Great Smoky Moun- Bald is along Forney Ridge A TVA visitor center and Road). Open 9-5. outdoor museums. It also tains National Park ends, on Trail and starts from the end tours highlight the highest features old-time breeds of U.S. 441 near Cherokee, NC. of Clingmans Dome parking dam in the East. Fontana 5. newfound gap The parkway is a 469-mile- area. The trail leads through livestock (seasonally) and Marina offers boat rentals high elevation spruce-fir forest an heirloom garden and row long scenic drive that connects and shuttles for access to with evergreen trees and un- This gap is a low point in the crops. The new visitor center the Smokies to Shenandoah remote, historic areas of the usual flora and fauna. mountain range and strad- and mountain farm museum National Park. In the early fall park like Hazel Creek and dles the boundary of North are located on U.S. 441, two it is especially enjoyable for Eagle Creek. 3. sugarlands visitor Carolina and Tennessee. From miles north of Cherokee, NC. those looking for fall colors, here one can enjoy spectacular Open 8-6 (Sept.-Oct.), 8-5 wildflowers, and mountain center views into both states and take (Nov.). views. If 469 miles sounds a a short stroll along the famous little long, the 20-mile drive It’s fun, it’s free, and it’s easy Appalachian Trail. There are from Oconaluftee Visitor Cen- to find. Sugarlands Visitor 7. deep creek also restrooms and the historic ter to Waterrock Knob takes Center is located 2 miles south Rockefeller Memorial. waterfalls less than an hour.

4 v smokies guide, Autumn 2014 park news Great Smoky Mountains National Park protects over 800 square miles of land National Park Service Park Proposes Firewood Regulation News Briefs to Protect Forests from Alien Pests Official Smokies 25-cent Piece Now Available state agencies, conservation organizations, and univer- IN JANUARY the U.S. sities are joining forces to develop a national strategy to Mint released into circulation its BILL LEA PHOTO Tennessee—Great Smoky Mountains mitigate the risks associated National Park quarter as the latest coin in with transporting firewood, including a public education the “America the Beautiful” series. The 25- campaign. National parks cent piece is one of 56 quarters celebrating throughout the Appalachian federal public lands that is produced by region have taken action to the Denver and Philadelphia mints. Uncirculated versions of limit the spread of insect the Smokies quarter and other national park collectible coins pests in firewood including, are available for sale in park visitor centers. in many cases, the banning of imported firewood. For the past three years Gunther Fork Trail Reopens the Smokies has prohibited the importation of firewood LANDSLIDE-PRONE GUNTHER FORK Trail is open to from areas quarantined by the hikers one again. The trail had been closed since May, 2014. USDA Animal Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS). The park trail crew completed the necessary repairs by Certified firewood that is heat treated does not harbor insect eggs or Current park regulations pro- re-establishing the trail through the slide area. The trail passes beetle larvae that can spread and devastate the park’s forests. along rocky, steep terrain complicating the repair work. The hibit the importation of wood and wood products from trail was also closed in 2011 due to a major slide in the same reat Smoky Mountains concessioners in many of the states (or specific counties in vicinity. National Park officials campgrounds as well as from areG proposing a new regula- private businesses outside the states) quarantined for insects tion to help protect forests by park. In addition, visitors may such as emerald ash borer or Armadillo Reported Near Park Boundary limiting the type of firewood still collect dead and down tree diseases such as thou- brought into the park by wood in the park for their sand canker disease. campers and picnickers. campfires. Although the proposed A PARK RANGER HAS REPORTED an armadillo close to the Non-native, tree-killing in- “We are asking visitors to regulation prohibiting the national park boundary near Deals Gap. The mammals have sects and diseases such as the help us protect park forests importation of non-certi- been steadily expanding their range north and east for several emerald ash borer and Asian by ensuring they are using fied wood would not take decades. Park officials are still considering whether to treat the long-horned beetle often lay heat-treated firewood,” said effect until 2015, the park animals as non-natives or as natural immigrants if they are eggs and stowaway in dead Acting Superintendent Cyn- is asking visitors to make documented inside the park. wood and then disperse to thia MacLeod. “The Smokies the switch to safe firewood wreak havoc in the forest. have already lost magnificent now. Heat-treated wood is Chimneys Trail to Fully Open by 2015 Non-native pests have stands of chestnut, Fraser fir, available from an increasing already wiped out most of the and hemlock. We need to do number of businesses outside Fraser fir and eastern hemlock all we can to protect the park the park and staff are working THE VERY POPULAR CHIMNEY TOPS Trail is sched- trees in the park and the latest from further threats.” with concessioners within the uled to reopen to 7-days per week at the end of this year. The exotics could cause even more The latest wave of non-na- park to use low-risk wood combination of heavy use, abundant rainfall, and steep terrain widespread carnage. tive insects from Asia and sources until they are able to turned the Chimney Tops Trail into a badly eroded obstacle The Park Service proposes Europe has the potential to make the transition. course of slick, broken rock, exposed tree roots, and mud. to reduce this eminent threat devastate over 30 species A final decision on adopting the new regulation Since April 2012, the park’s Trails Forever Crew has been by changing regulations to of hardwood trees native to is expected by the end of the rebuilding the trail using durable stone and rot-resistant black allow only heat-treated wood the park. Transportation of to be brought into the park for firewood has been implicated year. The public may submit locust timbers that will stabilize the trail for decades to come. campfires. If the proposal is in the spread of gypsy moth, comments by: mail at 107 adopted, beginning in March Dutch elm disease, emerald Park Headquarters Road, Roaring Fork MNT to Close Early This Year 2015, it would ban the impor- ash borer, thousand canker Gatlinburg, TN 37738; tation of firewood that is not disease, Asian longhorned e-mail at grsmcomments@ nps.gov; or comment cards ROARING FORK MOTOR Nature Trail will close on October bundled and certified by the beetle, Sirex woodwasp, available at visitor centers 31 this year so that repairs can be made on three bridges. The USDA or a state agency. golden spotted oak borer, and Heat-treated wood will other disease complexes. and campgrounds in the scenic road is slated to reopen on May 1, 2015. be available to purchase from Numerous federal and national park.

smokies guide, Autumn 2014 v 5 Park fisheries biolo - gists are continuing their long term effort to restore native brook trout to their historic range in the Smokies. Non-native rainbow trout and acid rain have exclud - ed the brookies from much of their former domain. Twelve park streams (41 park streams Twelve miles) remain officially miles) remain by acid listed as impaired is deposition. Research underway to determine how much acid deposition must endangered endangered Surveys of reintroduced Significant winter and spring floods in and threatened fish indicate there are now are fish indicate there and threatened populations in the park. viable reproducing be reduced for these streams to recover to to recover for these streams be reduced acceptable levels. 2012 and the ’13 number have of reduced fry However, in park streams. 5”–8” trout survival seems to be better this year. STREAM LIFE Recent water quality monitoring data has the first evidence provided of slight improvements These acidity. in stream improvements are attributed to are improvements Fisheries research indicates that brook indicates that brook Fisheries research reductions in acid rain (from power plants in acid rain (from reductions and factories) in the last decade. in the park are healthy. healthy. populations in the park are trout showing signs of These populations are of 2007 and the droughts from recovering 2008 and have expanded their downstream since that time. The range in some streams waters trout park has some of the best brook in the Southeast. NPS PHOTO has White-nose Syndrome been discovered in Great in Great been discovered Smoky Mountains National Park. The fungus disease has killed millions of bats in the eastern U.S. It affects Wild hogs in the park continue to test Wild Some visitors continue to approach, the University from researchers Last year, hibernating bats and recent surveys have hibernating bats and recent that nearly 80% of bats in some park revealed missing and most likely dead due caves are All caves in the park and most to the disease. have caves on other federal lands in the area the bats. been closed to protect positive for pseudorabies, a significant The disease for the domestic swine industry. of pseudorabies in the Smokies occurrence to the illegal related is thought to be directly of feral hogs near the park boundary. release harass, disturb and feed wildlife in the it only takes a few park. Unfortunately, people to impact the behavior of careless Animals that lose their natural wildlife. or fear of humans may need to be relocated euthanized. found tens of thousands non- of Georgia several calling from frogs tree native green wetlands in Cades Cove . The species arrived as stow-aways on vehicles or equipment that its native habitat to the visited the cove from south. The park is working with researchers to determine and Tennessee Georgia from if this species is likely to cause any harm and toads. native frogs State of the Park State of the Park WILDLIFE The food storage cables at backcountry campsites and to be shelters have proven very successful at keeping bears and people-food apart. Funding has been secured this Funding has been secured 2014 SPECIAL REPORT The non-native wild hog population

year to repair some damaged systems. year to repair is This trend low. appears to be relatively and consistent likely due to low reproduction efforts by park staff. Since 1959, more control than 12,000 invasive wild hogs have been the park. from removed At least 11 species of bats are native to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Sadly, approxi - mately 80% of cave dwellers may have fallen victim to white-nose syndrome over the last few years. NPS PHOTO 6 p smokies guide, Autumn 2014 At least three park At least three The park’s cabins, churches, cabins, churches, The park’s visitors had very close encounters with aggressive black bears on park trails are being permanently are and other historic buildings damaged by vandals carving Fortunately, the Fortunately, this year. or writing their names on hikers all responded to the hikers all responded walls. If you witness vandalism from one Someone stole a unique window from Until the planned curatorial facility is The National Park Service has placed a The park has developed partnerships taking place, please call (865) 436-1230 to it. report in Elkmont, of the cabins being preserved taking with them the chance for others architectural the structure’s to appreciate history. housed completed, most historic artifacts are 60 miles away because the park lacks adequate in-park storage , making access for and conservation difficult. research into both new and existing park education with expanded offerings focused programs Middle School. on Cherokee temporary moritorium on the use of drones in all national parks. (unmanned aircraft) have suddenly Small, inexpensive drones become popular with photographers and hobbyists, though many park visitors find them distracting and intrusive. buildings being preserved in Elkmont . buildings being preserved near are complete, three are Eight reports scheduled to begin are completion and more soon. universities to make many with regional available the park archives items from online. Many photographs, documents, and to now available and searchable maps are researchers. bears in an appropriate way (stand your bears in an appropriate and sticks) rocks throw don’t run!; ground; no injuries. were and there VISITOR EXPERIENCE HISTORIC PRESERVATION Great Smoky Mountains Great The park has an extensive Association, the Bryson City and Chamber of Commerce, the National Park Service collection of audio and visual becoming that are recordings difficult to increasingly are partnering to open a are use because of changes in visitor center and heritage technology. These are being These are technology. Great Smokies hopes to soon begin Great using public social media and Rangers are being Reports are Historic Structure The rehabilitation of the very popular The rehabilitation the a $52,500 grant from The park received migrated to a digital format for easier use and . long-term preservation of a state-of-the-art joint construction Center to house Collections Preservation all of the park’s historic and archeological collections and historic documents, under appropriate photographs, and records conditions. The facility will climate-controlled federal funds by providing leverage scarce curatorial staff and housing collections for National Park Service several East Tennessee units, including Cumberland Gap, Big South Johnson. Park nonprofit Andrew Fork, and partners Friends of the Smokies and Great Association have pledged Smoky Mountains the facility. at least $1.6 million toward to catch vandals who write visitor reports and carve on the Smokies’ historic buildings. Several cases have been successfully prosecuted. of 13 to guide the park’s care prepared museum in downtown Bryson City this fall. Highlights of the new facility include a and information history museum, bookstore, new park information desk. This is the third since 2011. center to open in North Carolina is expected to be Trail Chimney Tops Much complete by late December of this year. by the rebuilt of the trail has been entirely years over the last three crew Forever Trails with local stone and other native materials. Foundation to support Preservation Cherokee culture that will integrate Cherokee a project Campers continue to bring firewood into the park from into the park from firewood parts of the country under quarantine for Emerald Ash Borer and Asian and Ash Borer Longhorned Beetle. These and Rangers have made a number of arrests Rangers have made a number of arrests Thousand Cankers Disease was Thanks to reductions in coal-burning power plants in coal-burning power Thanks to reductions air quality in the Smokies emissions, and vehicle plants and power from sulfates Still, is improving. 80 from mountain views reducing are factories miles (historically) to 39 today. other destructive non-native insects pose a other destructive This risk to park forests. significant threat can be eliminated by using only certified kiln-dried wood for campfires. from and seized thousands of ginseng roots persons who had illegally harvested them in the in the park. Ginseng only grows America and midwest and eastern North the national park is one of few places is prime habitat and legal there where The native wildflower is a very protection. long-lived species and areas slow-growing, ravaged by poachers take decades or longer to recover. and Cataloochee near Big Creek discovered The disease kills black campgrounds. walnut trees. pollution can make air in the park unhealthy to breathe. have PLANT LIFE AIR QUALITY Ozone pollution, acid Over 14,000 hemlock trees Because of sulfate and nitrate have been treated with have been treated insecticides for hemlock In woolly adelgid this year. rain, particulate matter, rain, particulate matter, haze levels at and regional the park have all improved times more acidic than natural times more to rainfall, causing streams pollution, park rainfall is five become too acidic for Clean addition, many adelgids in the dramatically since 1999. Water Act standards. Water park were killed by cold weather park were In summer, ground level ozone ground In summer, Cleaner power plants and cleaner the new sections of Foothills Over 95,000 invasive princess trees Park staff worked with Federal Highways Around 21,000 native grass and wildflower Around Nearly 12,000 customers have signed up for has installed Since December of 2008, TVA were grown in the park greenhouse in the park greenhouse grown plants were All were seeds collected in the park. from planted in Cades Cove this spring as part of an natives. with there non-natives replace to effort the Calderwood wildfire from been removed site site, which burned in 2010. The 160-acre along US 129 near Calderwood Dam is now of native pine, with normal growth recovering and wildflower species. hardwood, engineers to find native species for planting along Parkway due to open as soon 2016. over the winter. Over half a million adelgid- over the winter. in beetles have been released eating predator At some sites, researchers the park to date. swarms of the predators. have observed large motor vehicles are the reasons. Visibility on the Visibility the reasons. motor vehicles are 9 miles in the from worst days has improved 1990s to 39 miles in 2013. (TVA’s) Green Green Authority’s (TVA’s) Valley the Tennessee . Power Program on the nearby Bull sulfur dioxide scrubbers power plants, Run and Kingston coal-fired air quality. emissions and improving reducing plans to install more TVA Additionally, on other nearby smokestacks. scrubbers

smokies guide, Autumn 2014 v 7 GREAT FALL DRIVING TOURS AND SCENIC VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

To Knoxville To Newport To I-40 SEVIERVILLE 321 ay w Exit rk Pa 443 lls CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 hi ot Cosby Fo Park View 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE A Pittman Mount Cammerer Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail: Center Cosby 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Big 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Paved, narrow, 5.5 mile one-way road Creek 40 National Park o ers old-growth forest, il 321 ra T Information Center waterfalls, and historic buildings. Ga n No RVs, trailers, or buses. bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

ig B Mouse 129 Greenbrier Creek 411 Walland Falls Wear Valley GATLINBURG es Trail y ad a Roaring Fork asc To Chattanooga rkw Ramsey C a Motor Nature Trail Ramsey Mount Guyot P Cataract Little Brier (closed Nov. 1 Cascades ls Gap Trail Falls il Townsend Fighting Creek for winter) h Porters t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Visitor Center Grotto o School P Cataloochee Valley: 8 miles from F o

Falls Laurel Falls Falls r t I-40 (including 3 miles on a narrow Trail Road e 73 r s Fern Branch gravel road). The short road through Townsend r Grotto Falls C Trail Rive Maloney Point re Falls the valley o ers wildlife viewing Meigs Trail ek PISGAH T an ra i (including elk) and access to NATIONAL FOREST d rail Falls Little Mount il h a t Top T c o nu Litt Carlos Campbell a a historic church, school, and homes. R st le R Le Conte l e T Elkmont i Ch ve a r r T Overlook e r p r) a Alum Cave n m il p K i e Look Rock a t Trail A t Schoolhouse o R n n i Gap Trail n Alum Cave A Tower u Cataloochee w t o GSM Institute R P M n d Blu s i Valley at Tremont Newfound Gap Road: This paved L h c d A Overlook i e s road is the only route over the Great R N lo c Lynn Camp Smoky Mountains. It stretches IO ( T Prong Cascades for 31 miles between Gatlinburg NA Ab and Cherokee and climbs from an ra Middle Prong m s Trail Road Prong Newfound Gap F elevation of 1,300’ to 5,046’ Abrams a Trail Kephart Abrams l l s (closed Nov. 3 Creek T (at Newfound Gap). Pr on g r d Falls a Oconaluftee Exit 20 a i Trail l for winter) o R Valley e ) GR m r EA o te Overlook Smokemont T S D n Kanati Heintooga Ridge/ Cades Cove SMOKY MOUNTAIN s i Loop n w Fork Heintooga a Trail Balsam Mountain Roads: You can Visitor Center in m Trail Chasteen g d Overlook combine these roads with the e To in s Creek Falls 276 l o Blue Ridge Parkway for a scenic C l Asheville Cades Cove Loop Road: 11-mile (c 47 mile loop from Oconaluftee Visitor Chilhowee one-way loop road o ers wildlife Thunderhead Smokemont Balsam Mountain Center that takes approximately 3-4

viewing and access to a historic grist Mountain ad hours to complete. Clingmans Dome Ro mill, churches, and log homes. e d Information Center v oa Allow at least 2-3 hours. o R Clingmans Dome Road: 7-mile C Mingo Maggie ch an r) Andrews Bald paved road leads to the Clingmans ig r te B Falls Valley B in rail n w T Dome trailhead. A very steep, half- o Pa rs in rkw a ek mile walk takes you to Clingmans Mingus e ay Dellwood P d re idg Horseback Riding se C R Mill e lo lu Oconaluftee (c Dome tower and the highest point B (rental) el az in the Smokies (6,643’). Visitor Center Bone Valley H Picnic Areas 19 129 Trail Mountain Farm Oconaluftee River

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Hazel Creek Twentymile

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e Wolf l D CHEROKEE Lake i Major Hwys a Loop Indian Ridge r CHEROKEE Trail T Trail Creek Falls ile WAYNESVILLE m NATIONAL Twentymile enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Major Roads Tw Loop Tom Branch 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Falls Fontana ke Falls Trail Deep Lake Cascade Dam Fo vie Paved Roads Cheoah ntana w Creek Lak Dr Restrooms are available E e E Lake View at all park campgrounds, visitor centers, Gravel Roads SS A 441 E N picnic areas, Newfound Gap, and Great Smoky N LI N O BRYSON E R Mountains Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets, Trails T A C CITY port-o-johns, and other facilities are also

H Ap 28 available at some of the most popular T FONTANA pa Autumn Auto Tours R lac 74 O VILLAGE h trailheads, including Clingmans Dome, N ia n Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls, Abrams Falls, Great Mountain Views

Alum Cave, and the Townsend “Wye.”

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8 d smokieswww .Sguide,mo kiAutumnesInfo 2014rmation.org Fall 2014 ❧ 8 vwww.SmokiesInformation.org Fall 2014 ❧ 9 GREAT FALL DRIVING TOURS AND SCENIC VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

l Museum i Trail Camping a r

e Soco Gap

e CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION r

C 441 Nature Trails

Hazel Creek Twentymile

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Calderwood e

Alum Cave, and the Townsend “Wye.”

JOYCE T B r KILMER - SLICKROCK a lu i 23 e WILDERNESS AREA l 74 R 129 id ge Santeetlah P ark Lake wa SYLVA y NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2013 143 28 441 23 www.SmokiesInformation.org Fall 2014 ❧ 8 vwww.Smowww.SmokiesInformation.org,kiesInformation.org Fall Autumn 2014 2014❧ 9 d 9 guided walks & talks free (except hayrides) programs led by rangers and park volunteers

Sept 21 - Nov 1, 2014

Park visitor centers are located at Cades Cove, Oconaluftee, Clingmans Dome, and Sugarlands. All offer information, exhibits, and publications related to the park and its resources.

h Accessible to persons using wheelchairs. PHOTO CITY OF GATLINBURG

Smoky Mountain Hiking Club members on a hike from Thunderhead to Gregory Bald, July 1930.

CADES COVE AREA Fee: $14.00/person ecosystem. Learn about the history of the elk through h “show and tell” activities. Then stay and watch the elk Please be aware that travel time to programs at Cades Cove Visitor come into in the fields! Center/Cable Mill area could be an hour or more once you get into the Saturday Duration: 45 minutes Cove due to heavy traffic volume. Plan accordingly. Junior Ranger Program Sunday Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill area halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Road CLINGMANS DOME AREA Junior Ranger Program 1:00 p.m. Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Bring the family for a hands-on exploration of the Smokies. Thursday area halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Road Participation counts towards earning a Junior Ranger badge Hike to Andrews Bald 1:00 p.m. and certificate. Meet at Forney Ridge Trailhead near the Join a Park Ranger for a hands-on exploration of the Smokies. Duration: 30 - 45 minutes Clingmans Dome Parking Area Participation counts towards credit for earning a Junior h 9:30 a.m. Ranger badge and certificate. Toss your daypack in the car and join a ranger on a Duration: 45 minutes WILD by Design h Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill 3.6 mile round trip stroll through one of the Smoky area halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Road. Mountains most interesting ecosystems. This moderate WILD Program 2:30 p.m. hike will take you out to Andrews Bald, a beautiful Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill A talk and hands-on demonstration about some of the wild things in meadow on a mountaintop. You can hike leisurely back area halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Road. the park to the parking lot on your own after reaching the bald 2:30 p.m. Duration: 30 minutes or return with the ranger. Sturdy footwear, a snack, and A short talk and demonstration about the wild things in the Difficulty: Easy water recommended. Smokies. h Duration: 3 hours Duration: 30 minutes Difficulty: Moderate h CATALOOCHEE AREA OCONALUFTEE VISITOR Tuesday Sunday CENTER AREA Evening Hayride Junior Ranger: Smoky Mountain Elk Meet at the Cades Cove Riding Stables Palmer House, Cataloochee Valley Daily 4:30 p.m. 5:30 p.m. Enjoy a ranger-led open air hayride viewing wildlife and dis- Mountain Farm Museum It’s all about connection and balance in nature to insure covering the diversity of Cades Cove. Adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center survival for elk and other species living together in an Duration: 1½ - 2 hours

10 p smokies guide, Autumn 2014 Dawn to Dusk Thursday Smokies most colorful season. Maybe by the end of your trip Walk down to the farm for a glimpse into the past. Self- you will have “fallen” for the Smokies as well. guiding brochures are available and some days you may Black Bears: Big, Smelly and Smart Duration: 30 minutes find demonstrations such as blacksmithing, hearth cooking, Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch h gardening, or weaving taking place. 1:00 p.m. h Discover the wondrous ways black bears adapt to Monday their environment. Find out how bears prepare for the Mingus Mill Demonstration upcoming winter season. Running with the Pack: The Reintroduction Located a half-mile north of the Oconaluftee Duration: 30 minutes of Lost Species Visitor Center on US 441 (Newfound Gap Road) h Sugarlands Visitor Center 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. 1:00 p.m. (Open Friday-Sunday only in November) Friday The history of the Smokies is full of the stories of species lost Chat with a miller and feel the rumble of this historic gristmill forever. Come to learn the tales of those species brought back in action. Myths and Legends of the Cherokee from the brink to thrive in the Smokies once more. h Duration: 45 minutes Tree Cookie Area adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center h 1:00 p.m. Sunday Selu: Legacy of the Corn Mother The lands of the Cherokee once extended through Longing for the “Good Ol’ Days” Sugarlands Visitor Center Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to the several states within the Southeast and included all of 2:30 p.m. Oconaluftee Visitor Center the Great Smoky Mountains. Join a ranger to explore the Hoe cakes, hominy, cornmeal mush, hush puppies or white 2:00 p.m. culture, history and mythology of the Cherokee through lightning—no matter what form it took, corn played an You’ve heard it before but was it really the “good ol’ storytelling. important role in Smokies’ history. Come learn more about days?” Join a ranger for a walk on the Mountain Farm Duration: 45 minutes this versatile plant. Museum and learn what life may have been like on an h Duration: 45 minutes Appalachian mountain farm. h Duration: 45 minutes h Saturday Tuesday Smoky Mountain Elk Monday Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Little Greenbrier Schoolhouse 11:30 a.m. Little Greenbrier Schoolhouse near Metcalf Welcome Back to the Smokies! Fall is a great time for viewing elk in rut and listen as Bottoms Picnic Area Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch they bugle. Discover how elk stay warm in the winter. 11:00 a.m. to noon, and 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. 1:00 p.m. Feel the weight of the antlers they carry on their head. Go back in time to discover what it was like to live in a moun- Why would we want to bring species back after they A Ranger will be available to answer your questions tain community and go to school in a one-room schoolhouse. have disappeared from the park? What happened to about elk and let you know the best places in the park This program is fun for all ages. Please arrive 15 minutes them in the first place? Join a ranger to hear the stories to see and hear the elk. before program start; space is limited. of reintroduced species within the park, including Duration: 30 minutes Duration: 1 hour peregrine falcons, river otters, and elk. h Level: Easy Duration: 45 minutes h Autumn Creature Feature Sugarlands Visitor Center SUGARLANDS/ELKMONT 2:00 p.m. Tuesday Daily Did you know that the Smokies is one of the most diverse places in the world? Join a ranger to learn about some of the Do You Have Power? Cataract Falls Walk creatures that live here during this “Ranger’s Choice” style Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Sugarlands Visitor Center program. 1:00 p.m. 11:00 a.m. Duration: 30 minutes Of course you do! What is a carbon footprint? Join a Ranger to Do you have a few minutes? Get away from the hustle and h learn how to leave a light footprint and help protect the park bustle by taking an easy stroll to a beautiful waterfall and learn and the planet for future generations. more about the Great Smokies. Duration: 40 minutes Duration: 1 hour Wednesday h Level: Easy Wilderness Wednesday Talk Sugarlands Visitor Center Wednesday Sunday 2:00 p.m. The Wilderness Act is 50 years old! Learn why and how wil- Forecasting the Future with Mother Nature Jr. Ranger: “Bearing” the Winter derness areas are created, along with some of the history sur- Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Meet on the Sugarlands Visitor Center Patio rounding the passage of this important legislation, signed by 11:00 a.m. 1:00 p.m. President Lyndon Johnson in 1964. Nuts were fair, berries were late. Several morning fogs and rings How do bears prepare for the winter months? Join a ranger Duration: 45 minutes around the moon in August. Does this mean a hard winter or a to learn how preparing for winter takes an entire year. Fun for h mild one? What about snow this year? How did people in the the entire family! Duration: 45 min. past use nature to forecast the upcoming winter? Join park staff h Old Elkmont Town by Lantern Light and explore the possibilities this year. Elkmont Campground; meet at Little River Duration: 30 minutes Falling for Autumn Trailhead h Sugarlands Visitor Center 7:00 p.m. in September; 6:00 pm starting October 1. 2:30 p.m. Limit 25—sign up at Sugarlands Visitor Center. Join a ranger to discover the special places to take in the Join a park volunteer to hear the stories of Elkmont’s

smokies guide, Autumn 2014 v 11 heyday, whilst walking amongst the remnants of the old resort community at twilight. Duration: 1½ hours Difficulty: Easy

Thursday

Autumn Creature Feature Sugarlands Visitor Center 2:00 p.m. Did you know that the Smokies is one of the most diverse places in the world? Join a ranger to learn about some of the creatures that live here during this “Ranger’s Choice” style program. Duration: 30 minutes h

Twilight in the Forest Sugarlands Visitor Center 7:00 p.m. in September, 6:00 pm starting October 2 SPECIAL PROGRAMS into the past as they make soap, apple cider, sorghum Enjoy a twilight walk in the woods and learn about Smokies’ molasses, hominy, music and more. critters that are more comfortable in darkness than in the light Sorghum Molasses Making Demonstration of day. At the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill area Wilderness Turns 50! A Celebration of the Duration: 1½ hours halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Road. 50th Anniversary of the Wilderness Act August 30, 31 & Sept. 1 Sugarlands Visitor Center Theater Saturday, September 27th Friday September 12, 13 & 14 November 9, 10 & 11 9:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. November 14, 15 & 16 The Wilderness Act is 50 years old and we’re celebrating. Falling for Autumn Discover the importance of the Smokies in the establishment Sugarlands Visitor Center November 21, 22 & 23 November 28, 29 & 30 of the Wilderness Society in the 1930s and learn how a local 2:00 p.m. environmental hero, Knoxville’s own Harvey Broome, played Join a ranger to discover the special places to take in the 10 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. a pivotal role in getting the Wilderness Act written and passed Smokies most colorful season. Maybe by the end of your trip Watch sorghum cane be magically transformed into delicious you will have “fallen” for the Smokies as well. molasses. by Congress in 1964. The celebration will begin at 9:30 a.m. with the showing of Duration: 30 minutes h h the film, Wild By Law, along with other wilderness-themed Cades Cove Full Moon Hike films. At11:00 a.m. a panel of experts will discuss how wil- Meet at the Orientation Shelter at the beginning of derness principles have guided park management through the Indians, Buskwackers and Conscripts: The the Cades Cove Loop Road years. At 1:00 p.m. Ed Zahniser, son of Howard Zahniser Civil War in the Smokies Tuesday, September 9 & Thursday, October 9 who is widely regarded as the lead author of the Wilderness Elkmont Campground Amphitheatre 8:30 p.m. Act, will speak on his father’s legacy as well as his close friend- 8:00 p.m. Duration: 2 hours ship with Harvey Broome. Learn about how the Civil War divided people and even fami- Level: Easy. Wear comfortable walking shoes and bring lies in these mountains and how it affected their daily lives. a flashlight Cades Cove Stargazing Duration: 45 minutes h Meet at the Orientation Shelter at the beginning of h the Loop Road. Blacksmith Demonstrations Saturday, September 27 Meet at the Blacksmith building near the Cades 7:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. Saturday Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill area. Join a park ranger and the Smoky Mountain Astronomical Saturday & Sunday, September 13 - 14 Society as we learn about the stars and galaxies. Numerous The CCC in the Smokies Saturday & Sunday, October 25 - 26 telescopes will be available for viewing the night skies. Bring Sugarlands Visitor Center 10 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. warm clothes, a blanket to sit on and a flashlight. Carpooling 1:00 p.m. Learn the art of blacksmithing and why it was important in is strongly encouraged. The program will be postponed in case The men of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) the Cades Cove community. of rain and/or cloudy weather where the night sky is not clear left an indelible mark and legacy on the lands of the h for viewing. Call 865 448-4104 for more information and by Smokies. Come learn where you can go to see the rem- 9 a.m. on September 27 to check if program will be cancelled nants of their great work and to hear more about the Traditional Old Tymes Music history of the CCC in the Smokies. due to cloudy or rainy weather. Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center half way Duration: 45 minutes Difficulty: Easy 1/3 mile walk to the program site in an open field. around the Loop Road. h h Wednesday - Saturday, September 17 - 20, September 24 - 27, October 1 - 4, October 8 - 11 10:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Back Porch Old-Time Music Jam Autumn Creature Feature The group Tymes Past presents music gleaned from the Porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center Sugarlands Visitor Center immigrant homeland and altered to a unique lifestyle in the Saturday, October 4 & 18, November 1 2:30 p.m. Appalachians. 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. Did you know that the Smokies is one of the most diverse Bring an acoustic instrument and join in on this old- places in the world? Join a ranger to learn about some of the Mountain Life Festival time jam. Or just sit back and enjoy the sights and creatures that live here during this “Ranger’s Choice” style Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to Oconaluftee sounds as others play traditional Appalachian music. program. Visitor Center Duration: 30 minutes Saturday, September 20 h h 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Join park staff and volunteers as we celebrate the fall harvest. The Mountain Farm Museum will be alive with history as demonstrators provide visitors with a glimpse

12 v smokies guide, Autumn 2014 songcatcher at work Joseph Hall’s recordings preserve history in music

Old-time Music Was Often a Family Affair

usic is one of the threads document mountain speech just Mthat runs continuously as the establishment of Great through Smoky Mountain Smoky Mountains National history and ties together Park was displacing hundreds of generations of family members farm families from their ances- as well as friends, neighbors, and tral homes. As well as recording congregations. Throughout the stories and speech and produc- Top left: Carroll Best mountains of east Tennessee and ing books and papers related to (in the mid-1980s) with western North Carolina, songs the mountain vernacular, Hall the banjo he played for as well as musical instruments collected hundreds of ballads, Joseph S. Hall. Best is credited with pioneering are handed down from parent songs, and instrumentals. a unique style of banjo to child so diligently that family Hall’s relationship with playing called “three- gatherings are often highlighted the people of the Great Smoky finger fiddle style.” Best by hours of string band jam Mountains and their culture said he developed the sessions. ended up lasting most of the technique while playing Linguist and songcatcher Jo- professor’s lifetime. In 1956 he square dances in and seph S. Hall recognized the im- returned to the mountains with around Maggie Valley portance of music when he first a reel-to-reel recorder and asked where he tried to match arrived in the Smokies in the late his friend Teague Williams to the fiddle players note 1930s with his bulky recording invite some of the area’s premier for note on his banjo. PHOTOS COURTESY LOUISE BEST & FRENCH KIRKPATRICK PHOTOS COURTESY equipment and the intention musicians into his living room of capturing and preserving as so Hall could make a tape for Top right: The much mountain culture as he the Library of Congress. The Kirkpatrick Family possibly could. Hall, a graduate young musicians did not ini- band, circa 1940. student from California, had tially believe that their music managed to obtain a grant to would really be preserved and honored in such a profound way, but they put on inspired performances regardless. One of the musicians (Left to Right) Billy Kirkpatrick (fiddle), Carroll Best (banjo), Lowell who happened to be present Messer (electric guitar), and French Kirkpatrick (guitar) in Teague Williams’ was Carroll Best, the son of a living room circa late 1950s. Image courtesy French Kirkpatrick. well-respected banjo player. Though only 25 at the time, CD titled “Carroll Best and the Best Historical Album. Both Best would go on to become na- White Oak String Band: Old- CDs are available at park visitor tionally recognized as one of the time Bluegrass from the Great bookstores or by contacting most innovative banjo players of Smoky Mountains.” www.SmokiesInformation.org his generation. The CD was produced or 1-888-898-9102 x226. In 1959 Hall returned once through a collaboration between French Kirkpatrick, Carroll Best, more to the Williams’ home to Dr. Ted Olson of East Tennes- Traditional mountain music is also featured at many of the special and the Best’s daughter Alpha in the fill more tapes with old-time see State University and Great programs and festivals held in the park throughout the year, through Bests’ living room. The portrait on and bluegrass tunes played by Smoky Mountains Association, funding provided by Great Smoky Mountains Association. The annual the wall is Carroll’s father, Hugh, Best, the Kirkpatrick brothers, a nonprofit organization that “Music of the Mountains” festival, held each April at Sugarlands and who taught Carroll the banjo. Many and several others. Because works to preserve nature and surrounding communities, presents some of the finest old-time string in the music industry agree that band music, as well as gospel, ballads, and old-world fiddle tunes. Hall really did follow through history in the Smokies. The new Carroll would have achieved much Monthly “Back Porch Pickin’” jam sessions are held on Saturday greater fame but for the fact he with his promise to have these CD follows an earlier collection afternoons at the Oconaluftee Visitor Center near Cherokee during insisted on staying home and taking recordings preserved in the of Joseph Hall recordings made the season. And mountain music can often be heard wafting around care of his farm and family rather Library of Congress and other in 1939 titled Old-Time Smoky the Cable Mill complex in Cades Cove. Through these and other than going out on the road as a archives, they can be enjoyed Mountain Music that was nom- programs, the park seeks to tell the story of old-time music and keep professional touring musician. today by music lovers on a new inated for a Grammy Award for these traditions alive.

smokies guide, Autumn 2014 v 13 if you love the smokies... help protect this place for ourselves and future generations become a proud support the member

JOHN DICKSON friends Since Friends of Great Smoky 1953, Mountains National Park Great is a nonprofit organization Smoky that assists the National Park Moun- Service by raising funds and tains public awareness and providing volunteers for park projects. Association has supported Since 1993, Friends has the educational, scientific, and historical efforts of the National Park Service through cash donations and in-kind services. In 2014 alone, the association plans to provide more than $1 million in as- sistance that includes saving hemlock trees, living history demonstrations, environmental education programs, salaries for seasonal rangers, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the few large national parks without an entrance fee. Most raised over $34 million for and historic preservation. parks now charge $20 or $25 per vehicle. Without this supplemental income, it is difficult for the Smokies park projects and programs. to adequately protect wildlife, preserve historic areas, and provide educational opportunities. You can help by Association members These donations help: using some of the money you saved at the entrance to support the park partners on this page. receive a number of benefits • protect elk, bear, brook to keep them informed about trout, and other wildlife special events in the park and field school gsmi at tremont summer camps • improve trails, campsites, issues affecting the Smokies: and backcountry shelters An exciting variety of adven- Great Smoky Mountains Great Smoky Mountains • Subscription to the semi-an- • support educational pro- tures await adults who long Institute at Tremont provides Institute at Tremont offers nual, full-color magazine grams for school children to get out and explore the residential environmental a variety of summer youth Smokies Life; • improve visitor facilities park accompanied by expert education programs in Great camps in the national park. • Coming soon: Exclu- • fund special educational guides. Programs are offered Smoky Mountains National Camps last from 6-11 days sive digital access to the services like the park movie by the Smoky Mountain Field Park. Up to 5,000 students and cost from $555. Fees award-winning quarterly • preserve log cabins and School and include Mt. Le and adults annually attend include meals, lodging, and park newspaper, Smokies other historic structures Conte overnights, wildlife workshops and school most equipment. Guide, and the association’s Your donation can help workshops, edible plants, programs at the Institute. Next year’s offerings in- newsletter, The Bearpaw make these projects a reali- wildflower photography, Tremont’s adult workshops clude: Discovery Camp (ages • A 15-25% discount on ty. Put a few coins or a few animal tracking, bird watch- include birding, backpacking, 9-12), Wilderness Adventure books, music, gifts, and other dollars in one of the dona- ing, salamanders, mountain environmental education, Trek, Girls in Science (ages products sold at park visitor tion boxes located at visitor cooking, and more. One day naturalist weekends, teacher 12-15), and Teen High Adven- centers and at our web store centers, roadsides, and other programs start at as little as escapes, and photography. ture (ages 13-17). • Discounts up to 20% at locations around the park. $49. Contact: (865) 974-0150 or Contact (865) 448-6709 or Contact: (865) 448-6709, or more than 400 national park Buy the Smokies license plate smfs.utk.edu www.gsmit.org www.gsmit.org bookstores across the country for your car (available in Ten- • Special discounts at area nessee and North Carolina). rental cabins, inns, restau- GSMA MEMBERS SIGN ME UP! However you choose to rants, shops, and attractions Stay in Touch with the Name(s)* ______give, your donation will really • And most importantly, help protect the Great Smoky Smokies All Year Long! ______the satisfaction of helping to Mountains for many years to preserve nature and history q Individual Annual Membership $35 Address ______come! in Great Smoky Mountains q Annual Supporting Membership $50 ______National Park. *covers 2 persons per household Email (for Cub Report) ______Friends of the Smokies Join today using the cou- q Lifetime Membership $500 P.O. Box 1660 Telephone # ______pon to the right or visit www. payable in 4 installments Kodak, TN 37764 Please include your check with this form. Mail to: SmokiesInformation.org, or q Annual Business Membership $250 (865) 932-4794 call us at 1-888-898-9102 x222. GSMA, P.O. Box 130, Gatlinburg, TN 37738 1-800-845-5665 Memberships start at just $35. www.friendsofthesmokies.org

14 m smokies guide, Autumn 2014 fall all-stars 100 species of native trees live in the national park

Tuliptree In the Smokies this species attains a circumference of 25 feet and a height of 140 feet or more. It is one of the most common trees at the lower and mid elevations and is easily identified by its ar- row-straight trunk. Tuliptree leaves turn a pale yellow, often as early as September.

Black Gum This small tree is another early changer; it’s leaves turn a brilliant red by mid September. The bluish-black berries it produces are coveted by bear, ruffed grouse, and wild turkey. Mountain farmers used the hollow trunks of this species to make bee hives and storage bins. Black gums over 400 years old have been found in the park.

Red Maple Five species of maple tree are native to the Smokies, including sugar, red, mountain, striped, and box elder. Red and sugar put on some of the brightest colors each fall. For years the Smokies have been home to the world champi- on red maple, a specimen that is 23 feet in circumference and 141 feet tall.

Scarlet Oak This oak was named just for its fall color. While most oaks present muted autumn hues at best, scarlet oak leaves turn a brilliant, boast- erous red. Scarlet oak habitat is dry slopes below elevations of 3,500 feet. It is often found growing among pines, mountain laurel, and other oaks.

Sourwood The leaves on this small tree may begin to turn in late August. They make a striking scene against a blue autumn sky. For many years a sourwood in the Smokies was the largest sourwood on earth, standing 96 feet tall.

smokies guide, Autumn 2014 v 15 visitor information for more information, www.nps.gov/grsm information emergencies hospitals regulations accessibility

General park information: Listed below are some num- Le Conte/Sevier County -Picking or digging plants is Restrooms at all park visitor (865) 436-1200 bers to call for emergencies (865) 446-7000, Middle Creek prohibited in the park. centers (Cades Cove, Cling- www.nps.gov/grsm that arise after hours. Rd., Sevierville, TN. -Persons feeding wildlife are mans Dome, Oconaluftee, Backcountry information Park Headquarters Blount Memorial (865) 983- subject to a $5,000 fine. and Sugarlands) are fully (865) 436-1297 (865) 436-9171 7211, U.S. 321, Maryville, TN. -Pets are not permitted on accessible. The Sugarlands www.smokiespermits.nps.gov Cherokee Police Haywood County (828) 456- most park trails. Only the Valley all-access nature trail To order maps & guides (828) 497-4131 7311, Waynesville, NC. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee is located on Newfound Gap (865) 436-7318 x226 Gatlinburg Police Swain County (828) 488-2155, River trails allow dogs on a Road just south of Sugarlands www.smokiesinformation.org (865) 436-5181 Bryson City, NC. leash. Visitor Center.

Frankfort 64 Louisville 64 64 77

Lexington 23 65 WV Beckley 64 Owensboro Richmond Elizabethtown NA TC HER 75 81 PKWY 80 77 Y KY W K Blueﬁeld E P Roanoke ON BO EL NI Radford DA 80 AND BERL PKW UM Y Glasgow C Somerset Bowling 23 VA Green 81

65 Kingsport Bristol 77 24 75 26 Johnson City Lebanon Morristown 81 WWiinston-Snston-Salem Greensboro Nashville Cookeville 23 High 40 Oak Knoxville NC 40 Point Ridge 40 40 66 Statesville Murfreesboro 129 441 Sevierville 26 Hickory 321 321 85 321 Columbia Gatlinburg 40 TN Townsend 441 Cherokee 19 Asheville 24 411 75 Gastonia 129 Great Smoky 65 Charlotte Mountains 26 Cleveland 85 Chattanooga 19 441 National Park Rock 64 Hill Spartanburg 76 Greenville Athens 411 76 26 Dalton 77 385 129 76 Huntsville 72 SC Anderson Scottsboro 75 Decatur GA 411 5 23 178 Fort Payne 441 85 Florence AL Gainesville 26 Greenwood 20 Cullman 59 575 985 Cartersville Gadsden Athens Columbia 65 Marietta 25 95