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Home , Abrams Creek (Tennessee), Andrews Bald, Big Wheel (tricycle), Cades Cove, Charlies Bunion, Chimney Tops

SMOKIESThe official newspaper of Great Smoky GUIDE National Park • Winter 2017-18 In this issue 2 • Smokies trip planner 4 • Great sights to see 5-7 • GSMNP news briefs 6 • National Park news 8-9 • Winter driving map 10 • The winter larder 11 • The great indoors 12 • Handy digital resources 13 • Winter wildlife adaptations 14 • Partners protecting the park 15 • Ella Costner, poet laureate 16 • Visitor information

Horses graze in the open frosty fields in . Image by Bill Lea

Winter Driving in the Mountains Use caution when driving park roads in winter as temperatures and conditions can change rapidly

he 33-mile-long periods of hazardous driving conditions. When driving on -covered TRoad (U.S. 441) is the main auto- For the safety of motorists, the Park roads, reduce your speed and avoid mobile route through Great Smoky Service imposes certain restrictions on sudden braking. Leave extra space Mountains National Park. It crosses winter driving. Typically, Newfound between you and the vehicle in front Look closely… the crest of the Smoky Mountains at Gap Road is temporarily closed 15-20 of you. Use lower gears or brake very Winter is the time when Newfound Gap (elevation 5,046’) to times each winter. For deciduous trees have dropped connect the towns of Gatlinburg, TN, alternate routes when When driving on snow-covered roads, their leaves and many things in and , NC. Driving time is Newfound Gap Road is the park suddenly become visible. typically one hour. closed, see the back page reduce your speed and avoid sudden Watch for wildlife, including At Newfound Gap, where the road of this newspaper. braking. Leave extra space between white-tailed deer, elk, coyote, reaches its highest point, tempera- Even though driving bobcat, red and gray fox, and Wild tures are frequently 10-15° F cooler conditions may seem fine you and the vehicle in front of you. Turkey. (Sorry, most black bears than in Cherokee or Gatlinburg. In near Gatlinburg or Cher- will be in their dens from early addition, the higher elevations receive okee, Newfound Gap Road contains gently when you need to slow down. December into March.) You’re considerably more precipitation than very steep grades, sharp curves, and For current conditions check Twitter also more likely to spot traces of the surrounding valleys. Annually, is often coated with snow and ice in at twitter.com/smokiesroadsnps or call history: old roads, chimneys, cem- Newfound Gap records more than five winter. Salt is not used to treat roads in 865.436.1200. For information on eteries, home sites and stonewalls. feet of snow. the park because it damages the plants seasonal road closures, visit nps.gov/ Image of Katie Corrigan by NPS This combination of low tempera- and streams that the park was created grsm. tures and high precipitation results in to protect. SMOKIES TRIP PLANNER Maps and guides: SmokiesInformation.org Additional information: nps.gov/grsm

Camping in the national park Creek, Elkmont and Smokemont. • Deep Creek 92 sites, elev. 1,800', • Bryson City 800.867.9246 or The maintains Group sites must be reserved. Call 26' RVs greatsmokies.com developed campgrounds at nine loca- 877.444.6777 or contact recreation.gov. • Elkmont 220 sites, elev. 2,150', 32'- • Cherokee 828.788.0034 or tions in the park. Only Cades Cove and Group sites may be reserved up to one 35' RVs cherokeesmokies.com Smokemont are open in winter. There year in advance. • Look Rock Closed • Fontana 800.849.2258 or are no showers or hookups other than The list below shows number of • Smokemont 142 sites, elev. 2,198', fontanavillage.com circuits for special medical uses at Cades campground sites, elevations and $17-$20, open year-round, 35'-40' RVs. • Gatlinburg 800.588.1817 or Cove, Elkmont and Smokemont. maximum RV lengths. For current To prevent the spread of destructive gatlinburg.com Campsites at Elkmont, Smokemont, camping fees and dates of operation, insect pests, the NPS has banned outside • Maggie Valley 800.624.4431 or Cataloochee, Cosby and Cades Cove visit nps.gov/grsm. firewood from entering the park unless it maggievalley.org may be reserved. For reservations call • 16 sites, elev. 1,125', is USDA- or state-certified heat-treated • Pigeon Forge 800.251.9100 or 877.444.6777 or contact recreation.gov. 12' trailers wood. Campers may gather dead and mypigeonforge.com Sites may be reserved up to six months • Balsam 42 sites, elev. 5,310', down wood in the park for campfires. • Sevierville 888.766.5948 or in advance. Reservations are required at 30' RVs Certified wood may be purchased in and visitsevierville.com Cataloochee Campground. • Big Creek 12 sites, elev. 1,700', around the park. • Townsend 800.525.6834 or Site occupancy is limited to six people tents only smokymountains.org and two vehicles (a trailer = 1 vehicle). • Cades Cove 159 sites, elev. 1,807', Bicycling The maximum stay is 14 days. open year-round, 35'-40' RVs Most park roads are too narrow and Pets in the park Special camping sites for large groups • Cataloochee 27 sites, elev. 2,610', 31' heavily traveled by automobiles for safe Pets are allowed in front-country camp- are available seasonally at Big Creek, RVs. Reservations are required. or enjoyable bicycling. However, Cades grounds and beside roads as long as they Cades Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, Deep • Cosby 157 sites, elev. 2,459', 25' RVs Cove Loop Road is an exception. This are restrained at all times. Pets are not 11-mile, one-way, paved road provides allowed on park trails, except for the bicyclists with excellent opportunities Gatlinburg and trails, for wildlife viewing and touring historic or in fields or meadows. Dogs must be homesites. leashed on these trails. Helmets are required by law for persons age 16 and under. However, Special events helmets are strongly recommended for December 9, 2017 all bicyclists. Festival of Christmas Past: Sugarlands are permitted on park roads Visitor Center but prohibited on trails except Gatlin- December 16, 2017 burg, Oconaluftee River and lower Deep Holiday Homecoming at Oconaluftee Creek/Indian Creek. Visitor Center is popular in public April 24-28, 2018 lands outside the park, including Cher- Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage: parkwide okee, Nantahala and Pisgah national May 9, 2018 forests. Start of mornings in Cades Cove

Accommodations For rent • Le Conte Lodge (accessible by trail The Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence only) provides the only lodging in the Cabin at Elkmont can be rented for park. 865.429.5704 or lecontelodge.com daytime events starting in April. Contact For information on lodging outside recreation.gov. the park: Image by Gary Wilson SMOKIES GUIDE Smokies Guide is produced five times per year by SUMMER: June 1 Editor Lead Designer Editorial Board Susan Sachs Contributing © 2017 Great Association and Great LATE SUMMER: Frances Figart Karen Key Lynda Doucette Lisa Slobodzian Designers Smoky Mountains Smoky Mountains National Park. Publication dates mid-August Kristine Johnson Stephanie Sutton Lisa Horstman Association are roughly as follows: AUTUMN: Sept. 15 Lead Writer NPS Coordinator Mike Maslona Joey Heath P.O. Box 130 SPRING: March 15 WINTER: Dec. 1 Steve Kemp Nigel Fields Laurel Rematore E Printed on recycled paper Emma DuFort Gatlinburg, TN 37738

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 2 Visitor centers of 1" or more occur 3-5 times sudden weather changes, especially at Winter hours of oper- per year. At Newfound Gap, 69" fall on the higher elevations. Stay dry. ation are, Cades Cove: average. Lows of -20°F are possible at 9-4:30 in Dec. and Jan; the higher elevations. Fishing 9-5:30 in Feb.; 9-6:30 Fishing is permitted year-round in the in March. Oconaluftee: Camping in the backcountry park, but a or 8-4:30 in Dec.-Feb.; 8-5 Winter camping can be an exciting fishing license is required. Either state in March. Sugarlands: adventure for persons properly equipped license is valid throughout the park and 8-4:30 in Dec.-Feb.; 8-5 and informed. To facilitate this activity, no trout stamp is required. Fishing with in March. the National Park Service maintains bait is prohibited in the park. A special more than 800 miles of trails and more permit is required for the Cherokee Park weather than 100 backcountry campsites and Reservation and Gatlinburg. Licenses are • Spring March has shelters throughout the park. One of available in nearby towns. the most changeable the greatest challenges for backcountry A free fishing map with a complete weather; snow can fall campers is deciding where to go. Here list of all park fishing regulations is avail- on any day, especially are some tools to help. able at visitor centers. at the higher elevations. 1. Go online to view the park’s offi- Backpackers are often cial trail map (nps.gov/grsm/planyour- Driving distances and caught off guard when visit/maps.htm), which shows all park estimated times a sunny day in the 70s trails, campsites, and shelters. Park rules Cherokee, NC to: F. is followed by a wet, and regulations are also listed here. If Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) bitterly cold one. By you wish, you can purchase the printed Pets are allowed on Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee River Cades Cove: 57 miles Trails. All dogs must be on leashes. Image by Bill Lea mid- to late April, the version of the trail map for $1 by stop- (2 hours) weather is milder. ping at any park visitor center or calling Newfound Gap: 18 miles Picnic areas • Summer By mid-June, heat, haze 865.436.7318 x226 or shopping online (½ hour) Picnic areas open year-round are: Cades and humidity are the norm. Most at SmokiesInformation.org. : Cove, Deep Creek, Greenbrier and precipitation occurs as afternoon 2. Call or stop by the park’s back- 25 miles (¾ hour) Metcalf Bottoms. Please see the map on thundershowers. country office, which is open daily Cataloochee: 39 miles page 16 for locations. Picnic pavilions • Autumn In mid-September, a pattern from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m, for trip planning (1½ hours) may be reserved for $10-$75 at of warm, sunny days and crisp, clear help. The office is located in Sugar- Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) recreation.gov. nights often begins. However, cool, lands Visitor Center, two miles south of rainy days also occur. Snow may fall at Gatlinburg on U.S. 441. 865 436.1297. Gatlinburg, TN to: Other services the higher elevations in November. 3. Make your reservation and obtain Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) There are no gas stations, showers, or • Winter Days during this fickle season your permit through the backcountry Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) restaurants in the national park. can be sunny and 65°F or snowy with office at Sugarlands Visitor Center (by Newfound Gap: 16 miles highs in the 20s. At the low elevations, phone or in person) or online at (½ hour) smokiespermits.nps.gov. Clingmans Dome: 23 miles These temperature Reservations and permits are (¾ hour) and precipitation required for all overnight stays in the Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours) averages are backcountry. The cost is $4 per person Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles based on data for per night. Reservations may be made up (¼ hour) the last 20 years. to 30 days in advance. Temperatures Deep Creek: are in degrees Winter hikers should be especially 48 miles (1½ hours) fahrenheit. An aware of the danger of hypothermia— average of over the lowering of body temperature. The Townsend, TN to: 84" (7 feet) of combination of rain, cold and wind Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) precipitation falls is especially dangerous. At the park’s Newfound Gap: 34 miles on the higher higher elevations, hypothermia can be a (1¼ hours) elevations of the threat even during summer. Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) Smokies. On Mt. Le Conte, an To prevent hypothermia, carry Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) average of 82.8" of reliable rain gear at all times. Layer Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) snow falls per year. clothing that provides warmth when Cataloochee: 87 miles wet (not cotton). Be prepared for (2¼ hours)

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 3 GREAT SIGHTS TO SEE

1. Cades Cove Highlights: historic buildings, wildlife viewing Cades Cove is one of the most popular destinations in the Smokies because it offers an unusual blend of both natural and cultural resources. Road Deer are often sighted in the fields, Closed and their breeding season (or ‘rut’) continues through early winter. You might also see bear, coyote or Wild Turkey. Please use pullouts when viewing wildlife. Never approach or feed animals. A wide array of historic buildings, some dating back to the mid-19th century, are preserved throughout the cove. These include a gristmill, a variety of barns, three churches, and a renowned collection of log and clapboard homes. An 11-mile one-way loop road are permitted only on roads and not on reserved at recreation.gov. 5. Newfound Gap takes you around the cove. A visitor any of the hiking trails. Mileage from Cherokee—14 Highlights: snow? center (open daily), restrooms, and the Anglers have long frequented the from Gatlinburg—48 In southern Appalachian vernac- Cable Mill tour are located West Prong. from Townsend—65 ular, a gap is a low point in a mountain halfway around. Mileage from Gatlinburg––4 ridge. New Englanders call such places Numerous trails start in the cove, from Townsend—24 4. Smokemont ‘notches’ while westerners refer to them including the 5-mile roundtrip trail from Cherokee—41 Highlights: camping, hiking, cemeteries as mountain ‘passes.’ to Abrams Falls and the 8.5-mile Rich Smokemont Campground is At nearly a mile high (5,046'), Mountain loop hike. 3. Deep Creek open year-round. It is situated near Newfound Gap is significantly cooler Mileage from Townsend––9 Highlights: walking trails, waterfalls, the banks of the Oconaluftee River, than the surrounding lowlands and from Gatlinburg––27 bicycling a major waterway acclaimed for its receives much more snow. On average, The Deep Creek area is an off-the- trout fishing as well as its place in 19th 69 inches of snow falls at the gap each 2. Greenbrier beaten-path destination in the Great century Smoky Mountain history. When year. When there is snow on the ground, Highlights: bicycling, walking trails Smoky Mountains, celebrated for its Newfound Gap Road is closed because and Newfound Gap Road has not Greenbrier is a hiker’s delight. Trails rushing streams and waterfalls. Hikers of snow, this area is still accessible. been closed, opportunities do exist for include Ramsey Cascade, Old Settlers, enjoy the area because of the waterfalls A favorite hike in the Smokemont snow sports. Many people use Cling- Grapeyard Ridge, Brushy Mountain and because there are several loop hikes area is the 6.1-mile Bradley Fork- mans Dome Road (closed to vehicles in and Porters Creek. Ramsey Cascade is a to choose from. Cyclists can take advan- Smokemont loop hike. Highlights of winter) for walking, snowshoeing and strenuous 8-mile roundtrip hike to the tage of one of the few park trails where this moderate route include the waters cross-country skiing. The road starts 0.1 tallest waterfall in the park. Moderate bicycles are permitted. of Bradley Fork and a nearby historic mile south of Newfound Gap. Porters Creek Trail leads 1.8 miles (one- Deep Creek area loop hikes include cemetery at the end of the Smokemont A trip to Newfound Gap is a trip to way) past a historic cemetery to Fern Juney Whank Falls (0.6 mile), Three Loop Trail. Start the trail near camp- the Canadian-zone spruce-fir forest. This Branch Falls. A short side trip takes you Waterfalls Loop (2.4 miles), and Deep ground D Loop. fragrant evergreen woodland is similar to to the historic hiker club cabin and barn. Creek-Indian Creek Loop (4.4 miles). Built in 1896, the Oconaluftee the boreal forests of New England and Brushy Mountain Trail can be used for a Longer loop hikes are also available. Baptist Church is located near the bridge eastern Canada. 9.1 mile (one-way) trek to the summit of Bicycles are allowed on Deep Creek between Newfound Gap Road (U.S. Mileage from Gatlinburg––16 Mt. Le Conte. and Indian Creek trails to the points 441) and the campground. from Cherokee––18 The roads in Greenbrier are mostly where the old roadbeds end and the trail Mileage from Gatlinburg—28 from Townsend—34 gravel and motorists must travel at a treads begin. from Cherokee—5 slow pace. This makes the area appealing Deep Creek Picnic Area is open from Townsend—46 to some mountain bikers, although bikes year-round. The picnic pavilion can be

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 4 PARK NEWS Great Smoky Mountains National Park news briefs

New Book Documents Please Leave Your Firewood Park’s Cemeteries at Home Prior to the establishment of Great Wood-boring insects from Europe Smoky Mountains National Park, thou- and Asia have the potential to devas- sands of farm families made their homes tate more than 40 species of hardwood in the Smokies. Their histories are not trees in the Great Smoky Mountains. To only remembered in the churches, help prevent this catastrophe from ever homes, gristmills, barns and schools happening, the National Park Service that are preserved in the national park, has imposed restrictions on the type of they are recorded in the more than 150 firewood that can be brought into the cemeteries and better than 5,000 graves national park. Only certified, heat- that remain. treated firewood may now be trans- Cemeteries were one of the more ported into the park, though dead and contentious issues during the creation down wood may still be collected inside Levi Trentham cabin was a historic summer home recently restored in Elkmont by the of the park. Families naturally wanted the park for campfires here. Certified national park's historic preservation crew. Image by EarthSong Photography/Don McGowan their sacred places protected, even after wood is now available for sale both the land became public. Cemeteries of inside and outside the park. For more the Smokies by Dr. Gail Palmer is part information visit nps.gov/grsm. of that preservation effort. Its 700 pages document the histories of the families and communities that once thrived here and list the locations of each cemetery and grave. Anyone interested in the history of the Smokies and genealogy of mountain families will find this book invaluable. $29.95. Visit smokiesinfor- mation.org or call 888.898.9102 x226. All purchases benefit the park. The historic Creekmore cabin was also restored. Image by EarthSong Photography/ Don McGowan boomtown era, a romantic age of clubs in tip-top shape, a local Girl Scout troop and summer homes, and finally the has volunteered to adopt the historic creation of Great Smoky Mountains homes. They will wash windows, sweep National Park in the 1920s and ’30s. floors and report any needed repairs. Image by Bill Lea With the help of volunteers, the Park officials hope to renovate 13 preservation crew cut encroaching more Elkmont summer homes if funding trees, repointed fireplaces and chim- can be secured. When the Elkmont Elkmont Cabins neys, replaced rotted wood, and repaired master plan is complete, 19 structures Beautifully Restored windows, doors, cabinets and roofs. will have been preserved and 55 removed. The national park’s historic pres- The crew had to remove seven layers of Already-renovated structures include ervation crew has just completed the tin, tarpaper and shingles from one roof the Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence renovation of four more historic houses before installing a new metal one. Project Cabin. Both can be rented for day-use in the Elkmont area. These structures manager Randy Hatten said that he is activities such as reunions, wedding recep- include the Levi Trentham cabin, Mayo “quite proud of the skill and craftsman- tions and meetings. Visit recreation.gov to cabin, Mayo servants’ quarters and ship” that went into the job, including make a reservation. Creekmore cabin. faux painting some of the cabinetry and The Elkmont historic area is located Each structure reveals an important recreating historic windows from period near Elkmont Campground, between chapter in Elkmont’s history. That saga salvage stock. The houses “look move-in Sugarlands Visitor Center and Metcalf Cemeteries of the Smokies is a must-have includes a bucolic period of scattered ready now,” Hatten added. Bottoms Picnic Area on Road. for any Smokies enthusiast’s library. mountain farms, a frenetic logging To help keep the renovated structures The area is open to the public year-round.

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 5 PARK NEWS Great Smoky Mountains National Park news briefs

Fire-damaged Trails Reopened allowed the park’s trail crew to design Sugarland Mountain remain closed. Great Smoky Mountains National and develop an overlook that provides Both could be repaired and reopened Park officials have reopened the very a safe and sustainable gathering area for sometime in 2018. popular Trail to a newly hikers to enjoy views of Mt. Le Conte Hikers on the Chimney Tops developed observation point. The entire and the Chimney Tops pinnacles. The Trail may not go beyond the closed trail has been closed since the Chimney top 0.25-mile section of trail to the area due to significant environmental Tops 2 Fire in late November 2016. Chimney Tops pinnacles, however, was damage and safety concerns. The Other fire-damaged trails that officials heavily damaged by the wildfire and will former trail past the closure continues have recently reopened include Road remain closed due to safety concerns. to erode and slough off the side of Prong and Rough Fork. Funding for this trail rehabilitation the mountain. The Park Service may “We understand that many people project came from donations made by consider trail rehabilitation and the have a strong emotional tie to the individuals from all across the country reopening of this area if and when Chimney Tops Trail and its reopening to the Friends of the Smokies’ Fire conditions permit. has been a priority for us,” said Acting Relief Fund. The Chimney Tops view has changed, Superintendent Clay Jordan. Of the numerous trails impacted by but visitors are happy about the partial The extended closure of the trail the 2016 wildfire, only Bull Head and reopening. Image by Gary Wilson

Cherokee Preservation Foundation Wins Award and Partners with GSMNP Funded in part by a grant from the “The geography and history of the “Cherokee Preservation Founda- ness of further educational and profes- Cherokee Preservation Foundation, park come to life for students through tion has proven their commitment to sional opportunities. and with support from Friends of the both in-class and in-park experiences,” the community by working with others Townsend collaborates with CMS Smokies and the Great Smoky Moun- said Julie W. Townsend, SPiN’s program in our to build relationships teachers, EBCI Tribal Historic Preserva- tains Association, SPiN is an educational coordinator. “We also provide teachers between the National Park Service, tion Office, EBCI Fisheries and Wildlife partnership between Cherokee Middle with pre-site, on-site and post-site activ- nonprofits, businesses and the Eastern Management, the Museum of the Cher- School in Cherokee, NC, and Great ities and materials to extend and enrich Band of Cherokee Indians in western okee, Cherokee Choices, and additional Smoky Mountains National Park. CPF’s the experience of each park visit.” North Carolina including the Qualla EBCI community members. Through mission is to preserve native culture, Because of its dedicated trips to GSMNP, SPiN provides direct protect and enhance the natural envi- support of community student involvement with real data ronment and create diverse economic strengthening programs such “It was so awesome up there collection on a variety of long-term opportunities in order to improve the as SPiN, CPF was chosen in the woods and made me research projects that monitor the effects quality of life for the Eastern Band of to receive the Outstanding of threats to park resources. Ongoing Cherokee Indians and those in western Foundation Award for feel so proud to be Cherokee.” professional development workshops North Carolina. National Philanthropy ~Tally, 6th grade created through collaboration, as well as Day, an event research to meet the goals of CMS and highlighting EBCI, are provided to teachers and regional philanthropists, Boundary,” wrote Friends of the Smokies park rangers. held in Asheville, NC, President Jim Hart as part of the nomi- “Cherokee Preservation Foundation on November 14. The nation materials. has opened a new door for Great Smoky award, presented by the CPF funds a number of projects Mountains National Park,” Hart said, Association of Fund- in , yet SPiN, “by collaborating between park rangers, raising Professionals, with support from FOTS and GSMA, teachers, community members and honors a foundation that uniquely connects students to the Cherokee tribal resources to support demonstrates outstanding park’s resources through culturally rele- education with culturally relevant curric- commitment through vant experiential learning, affirming ulum specific to Great Smoky Moun- financial support and stewardship while fostering emotional tains National Park.” through motivation of and intellectual connections to the Cherokee Middle School students in the SPiN program visit Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Image by Julie others to take philan- park as well as to historic Cherokee W. Townsend thropic leadership. lands, and increasing students’ aware-

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 6 PARK NEWS Great Smoky Mountains National Park news briefs

Forests Rebounding After Klein said. “Princess tree, colt’s foot and seedlings have Wildfires even Chinese silver grass.” been removed. Park fire ecologist Rob Klein says there Harmful non-native plants often Monitoring are three big ecology stories in the invade an area after a disturbance such and treatment aftermath of the November 2016 wild- as fire or road building. They are oppor- will continue fires that burned 11,000 acres in Great tunists that thrive in places where the for several more Smoky Mountains National Park. The soil duff has been removed and sunlight years. first headline is that in the high intensity increased. The most aggressive non-natives Thirdly, burn areas (encompassing approximately (e.g. kudzu and oriental bittersweet) can Klein and other A table mountain pine sapling (Pinus pungens) sprouts less than three 1,700 acres) young, fire-dependent expand to dominate a site and crowd out researchers are months after the wildfire consumed the area. This species needs fire pine seedlings are coming back with a native plants and wildlife. Invasive plants pleased to report to propagate. Image by Gary Wilson vengeance. “Where the fire killed the may spread from gravel, from straw used a resurgence mature trees, thousands and thousands for erosion control, or from plants used of some rare plants. On the scorched (Thermopsis mollis). It’s likely these and of seedlings are coming on strong,” as landscaping. flanks of Mt. Le Conte, mountain fetter- other rare park plants depend to some Klein said. Over the next 5-10 years, The park’s vegetation management bush (Pieris floribunda), a rare shrub in extent on natural fire to proliferate. he predicts these sites will develop into crew has been hard at work since early the park, is resprouting, flowering and “Next year will be a riot of dense dense thickets of table mountain pines spring, hiking more than 70 miles producing seeds with renewed vigor. An vegetation,” Klein predicted. “Everything and pitch pines. throughout the burned areas to iden- attractive flowering vine called climbing from mushrooms to blueberries is getting The second story is not so encour- tify and treat invasive plants. More than fumitory (Adlumia fungosa) is suddenly a boost.” For information on landscaping aging. “We’re also seeing invasive three thousand princess tree seedlings thriving, as is the uncommon wildflower with native plants, visit your state’s native non-native plants by the hundreds,” and more than five thousand mimosa called Blue Ridge Mountain banner plant society’s website.

GSMNP FIRE FACTS: Cades Cove Switches to Solar Power By early 2018, most of the energy The solar panels will directly power Start date: The Chimney Tops 2 to power Cades Cove Visitor Center the visitor center and restrooms, as Fire started on November 23. and the restroom facility next door will well as charge a bank of batteries. “The Fire was allegedly started come from the sun. The National Park panels should produce 20 percent Origin: by two juveniles on a Chimney Service is using funds it received from a more electricity than the generator Tops pinnacle. competitive federal environmental grant system can,” Bergsma stated. The to install approximately 2,000 square batteries will help provide power on End date: Fire was not completely feet of solar panels behind Cades Cove cloudy days. extinguished until January 28. Visitor Center. Additional benefits from the new Much of Cades Cove, which system include a reduction in the noise Park structures damaged: welcomes more than two million visi- produced by the propane generators None (Numerous historic and tors each year, has been ‘off-the-grid’ and decreased maintenance needs. “It’s administrative buildings in the for its entire existence. For many years also a great way for park visitors to Cherokee Orchard area were saved the power to run the visitor center see clean energy in action,” said Herb by fire fighters). and restrooms has been furnished by Kupfer, the project’s manager. “They’ll multiple diesel or propane-powered be able to have a look at the panels and Degree of impact: 1,700 acres generators. The propane generators will experience the benefits in the heated high intensity fire; 1,400 acres remain in place as backups to the solar and well-lit visitor center.” moderate intensity fire; 7,000 acres panels. Next door to Cades Cove visitor low- or very-low intensity fire. “We estimate a savings of over center, the public can also observe $14,000 per year in fuel costs,” said old-fashioned clean energy in action Where to observe fire impacts: Brian Bergsma, acting chief of facilities as the waters of Mill Creek turn the Newfound Gap Road (TN side), management for the Park Service, “and Since the 11-mile loop road is only open from big wheel of Cable Mill, rotating the Cherokee Orchard Road, lower an annual reduction of 23 metric tons in sunrise to sunset, the site is a perfect fit for stones that grind corn into corn meal. Cove Mountain Trail, Baskins carbon emissions.” solar power. Image by Bill Lea. Creek Trail.

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 7 To Knoxville To I-40 To Newport ay SEVIERVILLE 321 w k r) Exit ar te s P in 443 ill w Hartford CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 th in o ed Fo os Cosby (cl Park View Exit 447 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE Cosby A Pittman Mount Winter Road Cammerer Center 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center 40 National Park Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail il 321 ra G T Information Center closed for winter ab in and Recreation es Mounta ek Tra Cre il

ig Big Creek Greenbrier B Mouse 129 Creek Information 411 Walland Falls Wear Valley GATLTLINBURG es Trail ad ay Red light asc kw Ramsey C To Chattanooga ar #8 Ramsey Mount Guyot P Metcalf Bottoms Cataraacctt Little Brier Cascades ls Gap Trail Falls Noah ‘Bud’ Ogle Place il Townsend Fighting Creek Porters any secondary and higher elevation h t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Visitor Center Grotto o School P park roads are closed to motor vehicles F o

Falls Laurel Falls Falls r

M t

Rich Mountain Rd Trail Road e 73 r in winter. These include Clingmans Dome, s Fern Branch

closed for winter Townsend r Maloney Trilliumlliu Gap C Trail Rive re Falls Meigs TTrail ek Balsam Mountain-Heintooga Ridge, Rich Heritage Point T an e Carlos Campbellell ra i Look Rock d Center rail Falls Littl Mount il h a t Top T c o nu Overlook a Cataloochee R st Le Conte l PISGAH Mountain, Round Bottom-Straight Fork, e T h Elkmont a C r L p Valley e itt Alum Cave in m le p Cataloochee NATIONAL a R Overlook Little Greenbrier and Roaring Fork Motor Schoolhouse o i Trail A t v K e n Gap Trail n Cu r Alum Cave R FOREST u t c T Look Rock um r o R GSM Institute be a A r Gap Tr i Nature Trail. Forge Creek Road (in Cades M d ail l Blu s P

Tower at Tremont h c i Boogerman R Cove) closes from January 1 to mid-March. L Lynn Camp A Loop Chimneyy N Trail Prong Cascades O Walkers and bicyclists are welcome to use Tops Road Prong Newfound TI A Trail A br Middle Prong N am Gap these seasonally closed roads (some of which s Trail F Abrams a ll Abrams s Round Bottom Rd T Kephart r have gravel surfaces) as long as no mainte- Creek Falls a Oconaluftee Exit 20 i l Prong G closed for winter REAT Valley Trail nance work is underway. SMOKY MOUNTAINS Overlook

Cades Cove r T

k Upper Tremont Road (beyond the insti- Visitor Center r Smokemont o Clingmans F Loop i To Cades Cove at Trail 276 tute) may close for an extended period after Dome an K Heintooga Ridge Rd Asheville winter storms. Parson Branch Road is closed Chilhowee Thunderhead Smokemont Balsam closed for winter Mountain d

Clingmans Dome Rd oa Mountain

indefinitely because of hazardous trees. l R

i

a e Parson Branch Rd d r v a closed T

o o R All park roads, including Newfound Gap, C Mingo

closed to motor vehicles ch il k n a 12/01/17 – 03/31/18 e ig ra r re Falls B T C B

Cataloochee and Cades Cove, are subject n o Pa s p rkw ar e Mingus e a

P n e dg y Maggie Dellwood

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Trail heads is also impacted by these seasonal and Farm Museum CHEROKEE Soco Gap Twentymile Hazel Creek 441 inclement weather closures. For more infor- Trail Calderwood Loop Trail Cherokee Museum Wolf l CHEROKEE Lake i Loop Indian mation, call 865.436.1200, 865.436.1230 or Ridge a r CHEROKEE Trail T Trail Creek Falls ile WAYNESVILLE m 865.436.1297 (backcountry trails office). NATIONAL enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Tw Loop Tom Branch 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Falls For people seeking a place to play in the Fontana ke Falls Trail Lake Cascade F vie Cheoah Dam ontana w snow, Clingmans Dome Road (closed in Lak Dr Fire Area E e E SS A Deep 441 winter) is popular with walkers and cross- E IN Major Hwys N L BRYSON N O Twentymile Creek E R country skiers. There are no areas suitable for T A CITY Major Roads C A Swain County H FONTANA pp 28 sledding in the park; snow-tubing slopes may T al Visitor Center Paved Roads B R ac 74 l O VILLAGE h u N ia e

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28 NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2017 143 441 23 TS O ECRE F THE S t’s easy to imagine a 19th Mountain families raised and Icentury Smoky Mountain WINTER LARDER preserved an array of foods farm family huddled around the supper table on a bitterly cold winter evening staring forlornly Apple vinegar Fruit preserves Dried fruits and vegetables at another meal of salty pork Vinegar was made either by allow- The ingredients were simply wild Apples and peaches were thinly and cornbread. Fortunately for ing apple cider to ‘spoil’ or simply mountain berries or orchard fruits, sliced and dried in the sun. Green the families, this scenario was setting out a crock full of rotting plus sugar. Delicious local varieties beans, called ‘leather britches,’ were apples. Once thoroughly fermented, included blackberry, strawberry, strung with thread and hung in a almost never the case. the highly acidic and flavorful liquid peach, crab apple and gooseberry. sunny spot to dry. Some fruits were Smoky Mountain fami- could be used to make everything also preserved by ‘sulfuring.’ lies were diversified in their from pickles and coleslaw to relish Fruit butters methods for raising and and chow chow. Most mountain Apples or peaches were slowly Meats families kept a big ceramic crock of cooked for hours in a copper kettle Pork (smoked and salted ham, bacon, preserving food. Even without vinegar on hand at all times. to produce these flavorful spreads. etc.), fresh rabbit, deer, squirrel, quail, the advantages of refrigerators, turkey and, of course, chicken. freezers or store-bought canned Relish Pickles foods, families entered winter Could include peppers, carrots, corn, Lots of foods besides cucumbers Corn onions, tomatoes, squash, cucum- were pickled; even peaches, toma- This mainstay of mountain cuisine with a colorful feast of tasty bers, spices and even apples. Relish toes, cauliflower, Jerusalem arti- could be dried and ground into fruits, vegetables, beans, breads was put up in canning jars or simply chokes and okra. Added ingredients cornmeal, pickled, parched, used in and other nourishing foods. stored in a covered crock in the included vinegar, spices, salt and sugar. succotash, or cooked with lye to springhouse. It was used to flavor make hominy. Ilustration by Emma DuFort cornbread, beans, pork, potatoes and Buried vegetables other dishes. Cabbage could be buried in the garden with straw and leaves and it Chow chow would keep for months. Potatoes Includes cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, likewise could be kept in the ground onions and spices and could be used or stored conveniently beneath the as a zesty condiment on a wide cabin floorboards in a ‘tater hole.’ variety of foods.

Want to know more? Try some of the authentic mountain relishes, preserves and other fare offered by Great Smoky Mountains Associa- tion in our stores. And pick up a copy of Food and Recipes of the Smokies by Rose Houk.

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 10 The Great Indoors When Mother Nature gets gloomy, plan to explore the Smokies’ rich cultural heritage

hen the weather calls for tations, a real log cabin and many Great Smoky Mountains Windoor activities, visitors to the mural-sized photographs and artifacts. Heritage Center Great Smoky Mountains still have a In the visitor center, there is Located on Highway 73 wide range of options for exploring information about hiking, rafting in Townsend, TN the natural and cultural histories of sightseeing and riding the Smoky Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday- the Smokies. Five quality museums Mountain Railroad. Saturday; 12 to 5 p.m. Sundays with updated exhibits are located Admission: $7 adults, $5 seniors either inside the park or within five Oconaluftee Visitor Center and kids 6-17, free for kids 5 miles of its entrances. All are open and Museum and under year-round. Located on U.S. 441 in Great 865.448.0044 Smoky Mountains The heritage center is located on National Park, 2 six acres and showcases both indoor miles north of and outdoor exhibits. Subject Cherokee, NC matter features Amer- Open 8 a.m. to ican Indian history and the lives of 4:30 p.m. Euro-American settlers. Among the Admission: Free items on exhibit are more than 100 828.497.1904 artifacts from the park’s collection. Exhibits include The very knowledgeable staff at Sugar- audio recordings Sugarlands Visitor Center lands Visitor Center can help enhance of mountain folk, and Museum your trip to the Smokies. Image by Bill Lea park artifacts, video Located on U.S. 441 in Great Smoky clips, 3-D maps and Mountains National Park, 2 miles intricate re-creations to spotlight the historic photographs. south of Gatlinburg, TN Smokies’ rich habitats and diverse plant There is a well-staffed Open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and animal life. There is a well-staffed Swain County Visitor Center and Heritage Museum. information desk and Admission: Free information desk and a bookstore inside Image by GSMA a bookstore inside 865.436.1291 as well. Outside, several short trails lead as well. Outside offers a free 20-minute film to natural and historic points of interest. Swain County Visitor Center visitor center, more than a dozen historic shown on the hour and half hour in a and Heritage Museum log buildings are preserved on the state-of-the-art surround-sound theater. Museum of the Cherokee Indian Located downtown Bryson City, Mountain Farm Museum. In addition, The film provides an overview of the Located on U.S. 441 in NC, at the corner of Main and a walking and bicycling trail follows the park’s natural and cultural history. Cherokee, NC Everett Streets river to Cherokee. Exhibits in the museum area use Open: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission: $6-10 Admission: Free 828.497.3481 865.436.7318 x318 The exhibit “Story of the Cher- The heritage museum covers the okees: 13,000 Years” received an dramatic history of Swain County, award from the National Associa- NC, including the story of Cherokee tion for Interpretation, and has been Indian towns like Kituwha, Euro- called “A model for museums,” by pean-American settlers eking out a Van Romans, Disney Imagineering. living from the rugged Smoky Moun- This exhibit uses artifacts, artwork, tains, Civil War battles, moonshiners, life-sized figures and computer bear hunters, , and the generated animation to tell the story creation of the national park. The of the Cherokee people and their museum includes interactive exhibits long life in the region. just for kids as well as video presen- Oconaluftee Visitor Center two miles north of Cherokee, NC. Image by James Walker

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 11 See the Park in a New Way The National Park Service and its partners are offering exciting new ways to experience the Smokies

Web cams and the U.S. Geological Survey. The How’s the weather in the park project is focused on bears that occasion- right now? Real-time images ally leave the park to forage near homes from Purchase Knob, Look and businesses. This allows park staff to Rock and Newfound Gap zero in on areas where bears are finding (available in spring). garbage and other human-related foods. nps.gov/grsm/learn/ nps.gov/grsm/learn/nature/black-bears.htm photosmultimedia/webcams.htm

Find a critter Smokies mobile app Want to know the best places to look Includes maps and basic park for a Common Raven? How about information on where to go flame azalea? The national park’s species and what to see. mapper displays the likely ranges and nomadmobileguides.com/ habitats for hundreds of species of plants portfolios/great-smoky- and animals. Easy and fun to use! mountains-national-park/ Track a bear science.nature.nps.gov/parks/grsm/species/ Researchers are able to track the move- Cemeteries map ments of collared black bears as they Are your ancestors buried in the park? Discover life ramble in and around the national park Get a basic map of the park’s more than Discover Life in America has embarked thanks to a partnership between the Park 150 cemeteries. on the adventure of identifying every Service, the University of Tennessee, nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/maps.htm species of plant and animal in the park. Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, They have found thousands! See the list at dlia.org/smokies-species-tally/

Even more maps Maps that highlight locations of park restrooms, historic buildings and high points (including elevations). Also check out GPS-enabled topographic maps (like Avenza maps) you can use on your mobile devices. Find other maps at nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/maps.htm

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 12 Prepping for winter in the Mountains Plants and animals employ a sophisticated variety of strategies to survive winter in the Bears About half the bears that live in the Great Smoky Mountains. Great Smoky Mountains make their winter dens in standing hollow trees. They may rouse themselves periodically and take a look around, then return to slumber. Females give birth to one to three 8-ounce cubs in mid-winter. By the time cubs emerge from their dens Trees Birds in spring, they are old enough to climb During cold weather, water is a chal- One avian winter trees and race around in the forest. lenge to trees. On a microscopic level, adaptation is to bulk up the water in trees’ cells could freeze their coats by growing a lot Bats and damage the cells. So as winter more feathers. Birds also Some tree bats migrate south for the approaches, trees transfer the water to shiver, some continuously, winter, while other species go to the outside of their cell walls. Some all winter long. caves and hibernate. Bats may travel plants even produce chemicals that serve Their breast muscles do more than 100 miles to return to a as antifreeze, preventing damaging ice most of the shivering good winter cave. In hibernation, crystals from forming. work, which burns fat their body temperatures drop to the and produces heat. Birds that eat approximate air temperature of the Rosebay rhododendron only flying insects generally cave and their heart rates and breathing ‘Rhodo’ is one of the most common head south for the winter; those slow significantly. shrubs in the park. Its long that stay can survive on berries, seeds, thick leaves curl up insect larvae and insect eggs. like cigars when the weather is very cold. This action helps the plant conserve moisture and avoid dehydration.

Illustrations by Joey Heath

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 13 IF YOU LOVE THE SMOKIES Join the park’s partners in helping to protect this place for ourselves and future generations

Great Smoky zation that assists Mountains the National Park Institute at Service by raising Tremont funds and public Great Smoky awareness and Mountains Institute providing volunteers at Tremont provides for park projects. residential environ- Since 1993, Friends has raised more mental education than $50 million for park projects programs in Great and programs. Smoky Mountains These donations help: National Park. Up to • protect elk, bear, brook trout and 5,000 students and other wildlife adults annually attend • improve trails, campsites and workshops and school backcountry shelters programs at the Insti- • support educational programs for tute. Tremont’s adult school children workshops include • improve visitor facilities • fund special educational services Image by Bill Lea birding, backpacking, environmental educa- like the park movie Great Smoky Mountain outings to Twentymile Loop, Porters tion, teacher escapes, naturalist weekends • preserve log cabins and other Association Creek, , Boogerman Trail, and photography. GSMI at Tremont also historic structures Since 1953, Great Smoky Mountains , cemeteries, and more. offers a variety of summer youth camps Your donation can help make these Association has supported the educa- All hikes are led by knowledgeable in the national park lasting from 6-11 projects a reality. Put a few coins or tional, scientific and historical efforts of staff who love to share the park with days and starting at $589. Fees include a few dollars in one of the donation the National Park Service through cash others. Groups are limited to 20 people. meals, lodging and most equipment. boxes located at visitor centers, road- donations and in-kind services. Also this year, ask us about Gear Fest Upcoming offerings include Discovery sides and other locations around the By the end of 2017 alone, the programs and special gear discounts. Camp (ages 9-12), Wilderness Adven- park. Buy the Smokies license plate for association had provided more Join today using the coupon ture Trek, Girls in Science (ages 12-15), your car (available in Tennessee and than $1.3 million in assistance to the right, visit SmokiesIn- and Teen High Adventure (ages 13-17). North Carolina). that includes saving hemlock formation.org, or call us at Contact 865. 448.6709 or visit However you choose to give, your trees, living history demonstra- 888.898.9102 x349. Memberships gsmit.org. donation will really help protect the tions, environmental educa- start at just $35 per year. Great Smoky Mountains for many years tion programs, salaries for wildlife Friends of the Smokies to come! Call Friends of the Smokies at personnel, and historic preservation. Smoky Mountain Field School Friends of Great Smoky Mountains 865.932.4794 or 800.845.5665, or visit Association members receive a An exciting variety of adventures await National Park is a nonprofit organi- friendsofthesmokies.org. number of benefits to keep them adults who long to get out and explore informed about special events in the the park accompanied by expert guides. park and issues affecting the Smokies: Programs are offered by the Smoky GSMA MEMBERS SIGN ME UP! • Subscription to the semi-annual, Mountain Field School and include Mt. Get Rooted in the Smokies! Name(s) ______full-color magazine Smokies Life Le Conte overnights and workshops q Acorn (youth) Membership $15 ______• Digital access to the award-win- on wildlife, edible plants, wildflower q Buckeye Annual Membership $35 ning quarterly park newspaper, Smokies photography, animal tracking, bird q Chestnut Annual Membership $100 Address ______Guide, and the association’s newsletter, watching, salamanders and mountain q Dogwood Membership $200 ______cooking. One-day programs start at as The Bear Paw q Hemlock Lifetime Membership $1,000 Email (for Cub Report) ______• A 15-20% discount on books, little as $79. Contact: 865.974.0150 or payable in 5 installments music, gifts and other products sold visit smfs.utk.edu. q Lookout League Business Memberships Phone # ______at park visitor centers and at our web $250-$10,000 Please include your check with this form. store Mail to: GSMA, P.O. Box 130, Gatlinburg, TN 37738 • Special GSMA “Hiking 101”

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 14 Ella Costner Poet Laureate of the Smokies

acknowledged her as “Poet Laureate of isitors to the Great Smoky Moun- the Smokies.” V tains who have walked the Snake To learn more about Ella V. Costner, Den Ridge Trail out of Cosby Camp- see Smokies Life Magazine Vol. 6; #2, ground have probably noticed the small published by Great Smoky Mountains Williamson cemetery on the right side Association. For more information on of the path. It contains around park cemeteries, check out Cemeteries of two-dozen graves, including that of Ella the Smokies, also published by GSMA. V. Costner. Her prominent monument states she was born in 1893, died in 1982, and that she was “Poet Laureate of From My Window the Smokies.” Passing hikers who wonder who From my window I see, Costner was and what “Poet Laureate of the Smokies” means should be impressed (my neighbor) by the answers. Costner was born very near where she A garden, a tree is buried and spent her childhood with parents and eight siblings crowded in a A mountain modest log cabin in the shadow of Mt. Cammerer (then called White Rock). And patch of sky, She left home abruptly at age 15 to escape a potential forced marriage and And below them the river other circumstances and literally hitched a ride on the apple to Newport, TN. Running by. From there, Costner’s amazing, whirl- wind, fearless and exotic life of adven- ture began. While in Newport and Johnson City, TN, Costner devoted herself to educa- tion and earned teaching credentials before moving to to study nursing. Her successful nursing career took her to and then the Panama Canal Zone where her close friends Illustration by Joey Heath included John Arosemena, the future president of Panama. alike, particularly after she began selling After the war, rather than settling From Central America, Costner’s high quality moonshine. into a peaceful retirement, Costner wanderlust led her back to Texas, on Never one to stay put for long, went back to college and earned a to Florida, and included the study of Costner joined the army as a nurse and degree in English from Carson-Newman homeopathy and theosophy. Then, at became a second lieutenant serving University. Her literary career included age 40, after a short-lived marriage, in Hawaii and Guam and caring for the publication of six books, three of Costner returned to her family in patients recovering from the attack on poetry and three semi-autobiographical Cosby and became proprietor of the Pearl Harbor and Battle of Iwo Jima. prose. In 1971, following the publica- White Rock Inn. The business In her spare time she wrote a regular tion of her book Barefoot in the Ella Costner and friends in Panama. Image was popular with tourists and locals column for the Honolulu Star Bulletin. Smokies, the Tennessee state legislature by NPS

Smokies Guide Winter 2017-18 • 15 VISITOR INFORMATION For more information, go to nps.gov/grsm

Exit 417

SWAIN COUNTY VISITOR CENTER

© GSMA-12

Snow Routes shorter, but the roads are Gatlinburg Police Blount Memorial Avoid the Fine All-access For periods when steeper and more winding. 865.436.5181 865.983.7211 Picking or digging plants Restrooms at all park Newfound Gap Road (U.S. U.S. 321, Maryville, TN is prohibited in the park. visitor centers (Cades Emergencies Hospitals Persons feeding wildlife are Cove, Oconaluftee, and 441) is closed because For emergencies after hours: Le Conte/Sevier County Haywood County of snow, alternate routes Park Headquarters 865.446.7000 828.456.7311 subject to a $5,000 fine. Sugarlands) are fully around the Smokies are 865.436.9171 Middle Creek Rd., Waynesville, NC Pets are not permitted on accessible. The Sugarlands shown below. Commercial Cherokee Police Sevierville, TN Swain County most park trails. Only the Valley all-access nature trail traffic must 828.497.4131 828.488.2155 Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee is located on Newfound use ‘Primary’ routes. Bryson City, NC River trails allow dogs on Gap Road just south of ‘Secondary’ routes are a leash. Sugarlands Visitor Center.