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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

East p79

Great Smoky Mountains National Park Mountains p38 p109

Atlanta & North p134

Amy C Balfour, Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis, Greg Ward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to the Great GREAT SMOKY Smoky Mountains MOUNTAINS & Western National Park ...... 4 NATIONAL PARK . . . 38 North Carolina ...... 63 Sights & Activities. . . . 65 Great Smoky Mountains Day Hikes...... 39 National Park Map. . . . 6 Road. . . . 39 Newfound Gap Road. . . . 65 Great Smoky Mountains Roaring Fork Motor National Park’s Top 10. . .. 8 Nature Trail, & . . . . . 68 Need to Know...... 14 Greenbrier Cataloochee . . . . . 70 & Around Cosby...... 50 What’s New...... 16 Fontana Dam Cades Cove...... 52 & Western If You Like ...... 17 Cataloochee Valley. . . . 56 North Carolina ...... 71 Month by Month. . . . . 19 Additional Hikes...... 58 Courses ...... 72 Itineraries ...... 22 Overnight Hikes. . . . . 59 Sleeping...... 72 Outdoor Activities. . . . 26 Newfound Gap Road. . . . 60 Newfound Gap Road. . . . 73 Travel with Children. . . 32 Around Cosby...... 62 Cosby & Big Creek. . . . . 73 PERSONALPRODUCER/GETTYIMAGES © KIPSTAHL/500PX ©

WHITE-WATER RAFTING P31 TODD RYBURN PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

WHITE-TAILED DEER P189 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Cades Cove, Great Smoky National Forest...... 104 Mountains & Foothills Parkway. . . . . 76 National Park Today ...... 174 Cataloochee Valley NORTH CAROLINA & Balsam Mountain. . . . . 76 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 109 History...... 176 Fontana Dam & Western High Country...... 112 Wildlife...... 185 North Carolina ...... 76 Blowing Rock ...... 112 People of the Eating...... 77 Boone...... 115 Smoky Mountains . . . 190 Asheville ...... 117 Forests of the . . . 79 Western Smoky Mountains . . . 194 Knoxville ...... 82 North Carolina . . . . . 127 Cherokee...... 127 Pigeon Forge...... 88 Bryson City...... 129 Gatlinburg...... 92 Pisgah Chattanooga...... 97 National Forest ...... 130 Brevard...... 131 SURVIVAL Nantahala GUIDE National Forest...... 133 Clothing ATLANTA & & Equipment...... 198 NORTH GEORGIA. . . . 134 Directory A–Z. . . . . 202 Atlanta...... 135 Transportation . . . . . 208 North Georgia. . . . . 154 Health & Safety . . . . . 211 Athens...... 154 Dahlonega...... 159 Index...... 217 Amicalola Falls Map Legend...... 223 State Park...... 161 Blue Ridge...... 162 Helen ...... 164 Clayton...... 168 Tallulah Gorge SPECIAL State Park...... 169 FEATURES Toccoa...... 170 Outdoor Activities. . . 26 Travel with Children. . . 32 Wildlife- Watching...... 188 Clothing & Equipment. . . . . 198

OGLE FARMSTEAD, NOAH Health & Safety. . . . 211 OGLE NATURE TRAIL P48 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22

Itineraries

TENNESSEE

•# Sugarlands

Visitor Center É É

É

Rockefeller É É •# Abrams •# Memorial

•# Cades É É Falls Cove Clingmans É Dome •# Great Smoky Andrews •# Mountains Mingus Mill •# National Park Bald •# Mountain Farm Museum ÷# •# Trail

NORTH CAROLINA

2 DAYS Park Highlights

Exploring the Great Smoky Mountains National Park over two days gives you ample time to take in some of the park’s highlights, including historical sights, great views and pretty waterfalls. Start off at Visitor Center and check out its small museum of wild- life exhibits. Next head to Cades Cove, where you can explore austere farmers’ cottages and dilapidated family cemeteries on the 11-mile driving loop surrounding the historic 19th-century mountain settlement. Cap the day with a hike to Abrams Falls, a lovely cascade that spills into a scenic natural pool. The next morning, drive to the top of the park’s highest peak, , where an observation tower offers jaw-dropping, 360-degree views of the mist-shrouded moun- tains. Before returning to your car, make a hike out to the mountain meadow of for yet more magnificent views. Afterwards, drive back down and make a stop at the Rockefeller Memorial, which straddles two states. From there, head towards the Chero- kee entrance and stop at the Mingus Mill and the Mountain Farm Museum for a bit of 19th-century history. Finish with a stroll along the picturesque and easy Oconaluftee River Trail. 23

TENNESSEE

Cosby Mt Cammerer É É •# Lookout Tower

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Little Pigeon Big Creek •#River

Baskins Creek Trail É •#

Little River Road •# •# Rainbow Falls É É RMt LeConte É R •# •# •# Alum Cave Bluffs Cataloochee Newfound Valley

•#Foothills Parkway Gap É It Great Smoky Oconaluftee i nerar Mountains •# Visitor Center National Park è# Oconaluftee River Trail ÷# Deep É Creek •# Cherokee

•# i es •# É Fontana •# Lake Bryson É City NORTH CAROLINA

1 WEEK The Complete Smoky Mountains

Spending a week inside one of America’s best-loved national parks gives you time to escape the crowds and explore its far-flung corners. Start with a north-to-south drive on the Foothills Parkway for an overview of the park. Next take winding Hwy 129 to to kayak. On day two, head to Deep Creek to explore photogenic waterfalls. Afterwards, drive to the end of the Road to Nowhere and explore the wild scenery beyond the tunnel. Al- ternatively, ride the old-fashioned Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. End with a meal and microbrew at Nantahala Brewing Company in Bryson City. Day three starts in Cherokee at the excellent Museum of the Cherokee Indian. Con- tinue into the park and stop in the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, which has exhibitions on the early settlers. Afterwards, visit the Mountain Farm Museum for the log struc- tures. End with a stroll along the Oconaluftee River Trail. On day four, hit the trails for the rewarding hike up to Alum Cave Bluffs. If you’ve arranged far in advance, spend the night at the lodge atop Mt LeConte. If not, descend for a drive along the Road. For your fifth day, hike to popular Rainbow Falls or the less crowded Baskins Creek Trail. Afterwards drive to Cataloochee Valley to explore historic structures and look for . On day six, hike up Big Creek, one of the loveliest streams in the Smokies. Great pic- nic spots overlook rushing falls, massive boulders and deep pools. Afterwards, raft the Little Pigeon River. On your last day, make one last mountaintop hike and get a taste of the legendary Appa- lachian Trail. Head to Cosby, where you can climb to the Mt Cammerer Lookout Tower, or further on to Newfound Gap, for the hike to the rocky outcropping of Charlies Bunion. RICKBERK/GETTY IMAGES © ) 58 ) 39 Top: NewfoundTop: Gap Road (Hwy 441; p Bottom: Alum Cave Bluffs trail (p

THERON STRIPLING III/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 24 25 25

TENNESSEE PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É Pigeon River •# Gatlinburg •# •# Roaring Fork Metcalf Laurel Motor Nature Trail Bottoms É Falls •# •# •# •# Rainbow •# Grotto Falls The •# Falls É Sinks Elkmont Historic

District It

Cades Cove •# i nerar É É Great Smoky

Mountains i es •# Gregory National Park Bald ÷#

NORTH CAROLINA

4 DAYS Northern Explorer

The north side of the park has some of the Great Smoky Mountains’ most famous sites, with picturesque drives, rushing rivers, enchanting hikes and settler-era homesteads. Go early to Cades Cove for the best chance to spy wildlife. If it’s Wednesday or Sat- urday hop on a bike and cycle the loop road, which closes to traffic before 10am. Alter- natively, spend the day making the challenging hike up for a stunning panorama. On day two, follow the scenic park road west, stopping for waterfall views at The Sinks, and picnicking at Metcalf Bottoms. Afterwards, stroll the abandoned resort village at Elkmont Historic District. In the late afternoon, hike up to Laurel Falls, one of the park’s most popular waterfalls. The next day head off for another great waterfall hike, either Rainbow Falls or the less challenging Grotto Falls. Afterwards, enjoy the beautiful scenery and historic at- tractions along the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail. For your last day, head out for some waterside adventure. The Pigeon River is a fan- tastic spot for white-water rafting. Cap the day with souvenir shopping in Gatlinburg, followed by a meal of mountain in the atmospheric Peddler Steakhouse. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 215

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

WRITER THANKS Regis St Louis Amy C Balfour Many thanks to Trisha Ping for inviting me on board, and to Amy Balfour for sharing tips. I’m grateful Thank you to Tennessee locals Melissa Peeler and for the insight shared by the many park rangers, Lauren Batte for joining me on this adventure for a backpackers and AT through-hikers I met along the few days and sharing their expertise. Thanks also to way. Special thanks to my wife Cassandra and our Katie Lane, Teddy Colocotronis, Scooter Colocotronis, daughters Magdalena and Genevieve who joined me Stephanie Baker Jones, Chad Graddy, Jim Hester, for frosty nights of camping and some magnificent Deborah Stacy Gebhardt, Jimmy Surface, Marjorie hikes throughout the park. Joyce, Buck the Cataloochee camp host, the Cades Cove campfire and moonshine crew, and Lane and Greg Ward Beth Lastinger – Pilot Cove hosts extraordinaire. Thanks to the many wonderful people who helped me Many, many thanks to co-writer Regis St Louis and on the road, especially at Historic Stagville Plantation, Destination Editor Trisha Ping. Price’s Chicken Coop, Bryson City Bicycles, and the Kevin Raub Orange County Visitor Center. Thanks too to my editor Trisha Ping for giving me this opportunity, and to my Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, Desti- dear wife Sam for everything else. nation Editor Trisha Ping and my fellow Georgian in crime, MaSovaida Morgan and Jade Bremner. On the road, thanks to: Jason and Jennifer Hatfield, David ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS and Aynsley Corbett, Jeff Fenn, Sharon Crenshaw, Jerry Brown, Tobie Chandler, Teka Earnhardt, Jode Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Mull, David Junker, Travis Currie, Hannah Amick, Mary BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Reynolds, Jenny Odom, Mary Reynolds, Sarah Horten Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and and Keaton Thurmond. Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Evergreen trees near . Jason Langley/AWL© 216 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Assisting Editors Andrew THIS BOOK Trisha Ping Bain, James Bainbridge, Katie This 1st edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Connolly, Helen Koehne, Kellie Planet’s Great Smoky Kate Mathews, Vicky Smith, Langdon, Gabrielle Stefanos Mountains National Park Grace Dobell Assisting Cartographers guidebook was researched Product Editor Corey Hutchison, Julie and written by Amy C Balfour, Rachel Rawling Sheridan, Diana Von Holdt Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis and Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher Greg Ward. This guidebook was Alison Lyall Naomi Parker produced by the following: Book Designer Thanks to Alicia Johnson, Lauren Egan Sandie Kestell, Mazzy Prinsep ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 217

Index

A Ripley’s Aquarium Atlanta BeltLine 140 Bryson City 129-30 Abrams Creek 76 of the Smokies 93 ATMs 204 Buck Manor 155 Abrams Falls 52, 53 Tennessee Aquarium 99 Buck, Peter 155 area codes 15, 206 accessible travel 202 B budget 15 Asheville 117-26, , Sugarlands Valley 118 122 Balsam Mountain 76 bus travel 209-10 accommodations 120-1 Nature Trail 49, Baskins Creek Trail 58 bushwalking, see hiking 202, activities 120 44 bathrooms 206 business hours 204 accommodations 202-3, drinking 121, 124-5 beer 125, see also 204, see also food 121-4 breweries individual locations C entertainment 125 bicycling 15, 28-9, 209, activities 17, 19-21, 26-31, cable cars festivals & events 120 see also mountain 33 see also individual Gatlinburg Sky Lift 93 shopping 126 biking locations, activities Aerial Bryson City 129 adventure sports sights 117-19 Tramway 93 Cades Cove 28 Gatlinburg 93 tours 120 Cades Cove 12, 69, 177, 53, Chattanooga 101 Knoxville 83 travel to/from 126 70-1, 12 Parson Branch Road air travel 208-9 travel within 126 accommodations 76 28-9 alcohol 15 Asheville Ale Trail 124 activities 68-70 Big Creek 62-3, 73-6, 63 Alum Cave Bluffs 12, 39, Asheville Distilling Co 125 day hikes 52-5, 53 Biltmore Estate 117-18 44, 12, 24 Athens 154-8, 156 sights 68-70 birds 186-7, 189 Amicalola Falls State Park Atlanta 135-54, 136-7 Cades Cove gristmill 161-2 accommodations 134, black bears 185, 189, 189 12, 12 amphibians 187 140-3 Black campfires 60 State Park 168 amusement parks activities 135-9 campsite reservations 16 blisters 211 Anakeesta 92 climate 134 canoeing 31 Blowing Rock 112-15 88, 89 Downtown 135-9, 143-4, Capone, Al 96 Blue Ridge 162-4 113 148-9, 142 car travel 209, 210, see Blue Ridge Parkway 113 Andrews Bald 45 drinking 148-52 also drives boat travel 209 animals 15, 72, 185-7, 189, East Side 139, 144-5, driver’s licenses 210 see also individual 148-9, 150-1 186 insurance 210 animals entertainment 152-3 Boogerman Trail 56, 57 organizations 210 Anthony Creek Trail to festivals & events books 174, 177, 184, 185, road rules 210 139-40 Anthony Creek Bridge 191, 194 safety 14 food 134, 143-8 55, 53 Boone 115-17 Carlos C Campbell Apalachee people 178 highlights 136-7 Brevard 131-3 Overlook 66, 196 Appalachian balds 196 Midtown 138, 143-4, breweries Cataloochee Valley 13, 57 Appalachian Summer 146-7 Asheville 120, 125-6, 131 accommodations 76 shopping 153 Festival 116 Athens 157 activities 70-1 9, 31, sights 135-54 9 Atlanta 149, 152 day hikes 56-8, 57 tours 138 aquariums Blue Ridge 163 sights 70-1 Georgia Aquarium 138 travel seasons 134 Chattanooga 103 wildlife 13, 72, 13 travel to/from 153 Gatlinburg 97 cell phones 14, 206 travel within 154 Johnson City 102 cemeteries 58 Westside 145-8, 149-52 Map Pages 000 Knoxville 85, 87 Charlies Bunion 58, 60-2, Photo Pages 000 Pigeon Forge 91 61, 74 218 Chattanooga 97-104, 98 Andrews Bald 45, 44 Cherokee National Mountain Life Cherokee (town) 127-8 Anthony Creek Trail Forest 107 Festival 21 Cherokee mythology to Anthony Creek Foothills Parkway National Black Arts 128, 192 Bridge 55, 53 67, 67 Festival 140 Baskins Creek Trail 58 Little River Road Oktoberfest 165 104-8 Boogerman Trail 56, 57 54, 54 Peachtree Road Race INDEX Cherokee people 128, Cades Cove 52-5, 53 Newfound Gap Rd 139-40 190-1, 192 Cataloochee Valley 47, 47 Wildflower Pilgrimage chestnut trees 195 56-8, 57 16, 19 -C  children, travel with Charlies Bunion 58 107 films 174 G  32-6, 32 16, Road 68 fireflies 16, 20, 77, 187, 20 Chimney Tops 16, 46, 44 46, 44 Roaring Fork Motor fishing 162 Nature Trail 48, churches Cosby 50-1, 51 48 flying squirrels 186 Ebenezer Baptist Gatlinburg Trail 49, driver’s licenses 210 Fontana Dam Church (New) 139 93, 44 driving, see car travel accommodations 76-7 Little Cataloochee Greenbrier 50-1, 51 drones 15 activities 71 Baptist Church 57 Gregory Bald 52-3, 53 overnight hikes 63-5, Methodist Church 68 Grotto Falls 51, 51, 18 E 64 Missionary Baptist Kephart Prong Trail East Tennessee 79-108, sights 71 Church 68 45-6, 44 80-1 food 203, 205, see also Palmer Chapel 71 Laurel Falls 44, 44, 74 accommodations 79 individual locations Primitive Baptist Little Cataloochee climate 79 Foothills Parkway 16, 67 Church 68 Baptist Church 57-8, food 79 accommodations 76 Civil War 179 , 57 18 highlights 80-1 activities 68-70 Clayton 168-9 Newfound Gap Road travel seasons 79 drives 67, 67 climate 14, 19-21, see 39-49, 58, 44 economy 174-5 sights 68-70 also individual Oconaluftee River frogs 189 regions Trail 58 electricity 203 Clingmans Dome 9, 66, Rainbow Falls 11, 16, elk 15, 72, 185-6, 186, 189, , 8-9, 29, 74 50-1, 51, 11 13 188 G clothing 198-9 Ramsey Cascades 50, Elkmont 16, 66, 180 galleries, see museums Cosby 51, 28 emergencies 15, 59, 200 & galleries accommodations 73-6 Rich Mountain Loop environmental issues gardens, see parks 53-5, 175, 186, 195 & gardens day hikes 50-1, 51 53 Roaring Fork Motor equipment 199-201 Gatlin, Radford 179 overnight hikes 62-3, 63 Nature Trail 50, etiquette 203 costs 15 Gatlinburg 16, 92-7, 94 58, 51 events, see festivals courses 72 Gatlinburg Trail 49, Rough Fork Trail to & events, music 93, 44 craft beer 121 Woody Place 56-7, 57 festivals Gatlinburg Trolley 210 Crockett, David 105 Sugarlands Valley exchange rates 15 gay travelers 204 cultural centers Nature Trail 49, giardia 212 Folk Art Center 118-19 202, 44 Foxfire Museum & deer 186, 2, 34, 74 F farms 165 112-13 Heritage Center 168 dehydration 213 fatigue 211-12 Great Depression 183 currency 15 disabilities, travelers ferris wheels 89 Great Rabbit 192 cycling, see bicycling with 202 Great Smoky Mountains distilleries festivals & events 19-21, see also music Institute at Tremont Asheville 125 D festivals 16, 72 Chattanooga 103 Dahlonega 159-61, 160 Appalachian Summer Great Smoky Mountains dangers, see safety Gatlinburg 95-6 Festival 116 National Park 38-78, day hikes 39-58 Pigeon Forge 91 Craft Fair of the 40-1 accommodations 38, Abrams Falls 52, 53 Sevierville 86 Southern Highlands 72-7 Alum Cave Bluffs 12, 88, 89, 120 activities 65-71 39, 44, 12, 24 193, 182 Dragon Con 140 Dollywood 88, 89 Festival of Christmas courses 72 drinks 121, 162 Past 21 driving distances 38 Map Pages 000 drives Independence Day food 77-8 Photo Pages 000 Blue Ridge Parkway 113 Midnight Parade 20 highlights 40-1 219 hiking 39-65 Carter Shields Cabin 69 activities 83 Asheville Art sights 65-71 Elijah Oliver Place 69 drinking 87 Museum 119 tourist information 78 Elkmont Historic entertainment 87-8 Asheville Pinball travel to/from 208-9 District 66 festivals & events 83-4 Museum 119 travel within 78, 209-10 John Oliver Place 68 food 85-7 Center for Civil & Human Rights 135 viewpoints 38 Mingus Mill 65-6 sights 82-3 Center for Puppetry INDEX Great Smoky Mountain Palmer House 71 travel to/from 88 Arts 138 Wildfires 184 Rockefeller Memorial 66 College Football Hall of -Greenbrier 50-1, 51  G L Fame 138

Gregory Bald 52-3, 53 Tipton Place 69  N Laurel Falls 44, 74, 44, 74 Currahee Military gristmills (Cades Cove) history 18, 176-84 legal matters 204 Museum 171 12, 12 books 177, 184, 191 LGBTIQ+ travelers 204 Fernbank Museum of Grotto Falls 51, 51, 18 Civil War 179 lightning strikes 213 Natural History 139 Great Depression 183 literature, see books Georgia Museum of H Great Smoky Mountain Art 154 Wildfires 184 Little Cataloochee hardwood forests 195 Baptist Church 57-8, High Museum of Art 138 logging 179-81 health 211-14 57, 18 Hunter Museum of Martin Luther King Jr heat exhaustion 213 Little Pigeon River 13, 13 American Art 99 National Historic heatstroke 213 Little River Road 54, 54 Jimmy Carter Site 139 Presidential Library Helen 164-8, logging 179-81 166 North Georgia 135 & Museum 139 100 128 Knoxville Museum of () 187 WWII 183 lungless 187 Art 82 hemlock forests 194 holidays 204-5 Margaret Mitchell hemlock woolly adelgids horseback riding 29, House & Museum 138 175, 196 M 31, 30 medical services 78, 211 Mountain Farm High Country 112-17, 114 Hot Springs 132 Merlefest 115 Museum 65, 35 hiking 17, 27-8, 39-65, hypothermia 206, 212-13 mines 115 Museum of East 26, see also day Tennessee History 82 hikes, overnight hikes, mobile phones 14, 206 Museum of the waterfall hikes money 14, 204 I Cherokee Indian 127 Appalachian Trail 9, moonshine 96 immigration 208 Songbirds 97-9 31, 9 mosquitos 205 Independence Day Titanic Museum 88 Bryson City 129 Midnight Parade 20 motorcycle travel, see Women’s Basketball Chattanooga 100 car travel insurance 210, 211 Hall of Fame 82-3 Cherokee National mountain biking 16, 28-9 internet access 203 World of Coca-Cola 135 Forest 105, 106 Baker Creek internet resources 15, 206 music festivals clothing 198-9 Preserve 83 196 Big Ears Festival 83 equipment 198-201 Brevard 131 itineraries Brevard Music Great Smoky Chattanooga 101 northern explorer Festival 132 Mountains Cherokee National 25, 25 Chattanooga National Park 39-65 Forest 107 park highlights 22, 22 Nightfall 101 health 214 Gatlinburg 93 Smoky Mountains Merlefest 115 maps 28 Knoxville 83 23, 23 Mountain Dance Nantahala National Nantahala National & Folk Festival 120 Forest 133 Forest 133 Music Midtown 140 Pisgah National J Pisgah National Rhythm & Blooms 84 Forest 130 Johnson City 102 Forest 130 Shaky Knees Music regulations 60 Mountain Life Festival 21 Festival 140 safety 205, 214 K Mt Cammerer 62-3, 63 tips 59 kayaking 31, 30 Mt LeConte 10, 10 trail difficulty ratings 39 Kephart, Horace 191 Mt Mitchell State Park 117 N weather 27 Kephart Loop 60-2, 61 museums national forests, see also state parks historic sites Kephart Prong Trail Alcatraz East Crime Beech Grove School 71 45-6, 44 Museum 88-9 Cherokee National Forest 104-8 Cable Mill Historic King Jr, Martin Luther 139 Arrowmont School of Nantahala National Area 69 Knoxville 82-8, Arts & Crafts 93 84 Forest 133 Caldwell House 70-1 accommodations 84-5 220 national forests continued Charlies Bunion 60-2, poison ivy 213 swimming 31 Pisgah National Forest 61, 74 population 175 synchronous fireflies 16, 130-1 Cosby 62-3, 63 postal services 204 20, 77, 187, 20 nature centers Fontana Dam 63-5, 64 public holidays 204-5 Cradle of Forestry in Kephart Loop 60-2, 61 pygmy shrews 186 T America 130 Mt Cammerer 62-3, 63 Tallulah Gorge 170 INDEX Ijams Nature Center 83 Newfound Gap Road Tallulah Gorge State Park nature trails 60-2, 61 R Rainbow Falls 11, 16, 50-1, 169-70 Roaring Fork Motor permits 59 ,N-W 51, 11 telephone services 14  Nature Trail 12, 48, Twentymile to Gregory Ramsey Cascades 50, 206 50-1, 58, 48, 51, 3, 12 Bald Loop 63-5, 64 51, 28 ticks 212 Sugarlands Valley ranger programs 33 time 206 Nature Trail 49, 63-5, 64 tipping 204 202, 44 regulations 60 Toccoa 170-2 Newfound Gap Rd 10, 44, religion 175 47, 11, 24 P REM 155 toilets 206 accommodations 73 parks & gardens Rich Mountain Loop tourist information 78, activities 65-6 Atlanta Botanical 53-5, 53 206 Garden 138 day hikes 39-49, Roan Mountain State Townsend 92 Chimney Rock Park 119 58, 44 Park 104-5 Trail of Tears 128 Coolidge Park 99-100 drives 47, 47 Roaring Fork Motor travel to/from Great overnight hikes 60-2, Piedmont Park 138 Nature Trail 12, 48, Smoky Mountains 50-1, 58, , , , National Park 208-9 61 Sculpture Fields at 48 51 3 12 safety 14 Montague Park 100 rock climbing travel within Great Smoky Mountains sights 65-6 State Botanical Garden Chattanooga 100 of Georgia 154 Rough Fork Trail to National Park 78, newspapers 206 209-10 Tennessee Riverpark Woody Place 56-7, 57 North Carolina 100 Tri-Cities Region 102 Mountains 109-33, Parson Branch Road 28-9 Recreation Area 133 110-11 S Parton, Dolly 88, 89, tubing 165 accommodations 109 safety 205-6, 212-14 193, 182 Twentymile to Gregory climate 109 Sevierville 86 passports 208 Bald Loop 63-5, 64 food 109 Sliding Rock Recreation people 190-3 highlights 110-11 Area 130 permits 59 travel seasons 109 smoking 207 U pets, travel with 206-7 Unicoi State Park 165 North Georgia 154-72, snakes 212 Pigeon Forge 88-92, 136-7 90 sprains 214 University of Georgia 154 Pigeon River 13, accommodations 134 13 spruce-fir forests 195 Urban Wilderness 83 pine forest 194 climate 134 state parks, see also food 134 Pisgah National Forest national forests 130-1 V highlights 137-8 Amicalola Falls State vacations 204-5 planning history 135 Park 161-2 viewpoints 17, 38 budgeting 15 travel seasons 134 Black Rock Mountain Carlos C Campbell calendar of events State Park 168 Overlook 66, 196 19-21 David Crockett Clingmans Dome 9, 66, entrance fees 14 O Birthplace 8-9, 29, 74 oak forests 194 State Park 105 family travel 32-6 Look Rock Tower 69-70 Ocoee Scenic Byway 107 Grandfather Mountain internet resources Newfound Gap 66 Oconaluftee River 15, 206 State Park 112-13 Tower 71 Trail 58 itineraries 22-5, 22, Mt Mitchell State visas 207, 208 Oconaluftee Valley 23, 25 Park 117 Vogel State Park 165 Overlook 47, 5 opening dates 15 Roan Mountain State opening hours 204 park basics 14 Park 104-5 overnight hikes 59-65 park rules 15 Tallulah Gorge State W Big Creek 62-3, 63 repeat visitors 16 Park 169-70 Walker Family 191-3 travel seasons 14, 19-21 Unicoi State Park 165 Walker, John 191-3 plants 15, 194-6, see also Vogel State Park 165 walking, see hiking Map Pages 000 individual species Sugarlands Valley Nature water 213 Photo Pages 000 pleated woodpeckers 188 Trail 49, 202, 44 221 water sports 83, 129, see Grotto Falls 51, 18 accommodations 76-7 wineries also individual water Laurel Falls 44, 74, 74 overnight hikes 63-5, Currahee Vineyard sports Linville Falls 112 64 & Winery 171 waterfall hikes 28 Margarette Falls 105 sights 71 Dahlonega 162 Abrams Falls 52, 53 Rainbow Falls 11, 16, white-tailed deer 186, 2, Frogtown Cellars 159 Benton Falls 106 50, 11 34, 74, 188-9 Habersham Vineyards Grotto Falls 51, 51, 18 Ramsey Cascades 28, white-water rafting 31, 2 & Winery 165 INDEX Hurricane Falls Trail 170 50, 28 Bryson City 129 Three Sisters 159 Laurel Falls 44, 44, 74 safety 205-6 Cherokee National Wolf Mountain Margarette Falls 105 Sinks, the 66 Forest 106-7 Vineyards 159 W-Z Rainbow Falls 11, 16, Sliding Rock Pigeon River 13, 13 Wolfe, Thomas 119 50-1, 51, 11 Recreation Area 130 wild turkeys 189 WWII 183 Ramsey Cascades 28, Toccoa Falls 170-1 Wildflower Pilgrimage 50, 51, 28 16, 19 weather 14, 19-21, Z waterfalls 11 see also individual wildflowers 15, 16, 20 ziplining Abrams Falls 52 regions wildlife 16, 72, 185-9 Bryson City 129 Amicalola Falls 161 websites 15, 206 Cataloochee 13, 72, 13 Gatlinburg 92, 93 Anna Ruby Falls 164-5 western North Carolina safety 205 Knoxville 83 Benton Falls 106 127-33, 64 222 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 223

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Amy C Balfour Great Smoky Mountains National Park; East Tennessee Amy lives in the She- nandoah Valley in the foothills of the in Virginia. After a backpacking trip through the Smokies on the Appalachian Trail, she fell hard for the national park. Her favorite places in the Great Smoky Mountains and East Tennessee include the summit of Gregory Bald, Abrams Falls, the meadows of Cataloochee Valley and just about everywhere in Chattanooga. Amy has authored or coauthored more than 40 books for Lonely Planet, including USA, Eastern USA and Florida & the South’s Best Trips. Her stories have appeared in Backpacker, Sierra, Southern Living and Women’s Health.

Kevin Raub Atlanta & North Georgia Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Carib- bean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Regis St Louis Great Smoky Mountains National Park Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six conti- nents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Greg Ward North Carolina Mountains Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippy trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg Ward has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favorite photos and memories.

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