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INSIDE

RANGER PROGRAMS Pages 10-13

The Official Newspaper of FALL COLORS Page 7 National Park Autumn 2016 PARK MAP Pages 8-9 BILL LEA PHOTO MARS HILL COLLEGE PHOTO

BLACK BEARS

Peeling apples was a social event and a prelude to delicious apple pies. During fall, bears depend

heavily on acorns, hickory Autumn Was Time of

nuts, and other types of Plenty & Plenty to Do

Both gray (pictured) and red fox live in the Great Smoky Mountains. hard “mast” to gain weight all was a busy, but hope- farmers had to rely on other Ffully bountiful time on means of preserving their food for winter. If the trees a mountain farm. Families for future consumption. Some depended on their large, foods, such as potatoes, cab- This Fox is Perfectly provide plentiful mast, bears labor-intensive gardens for bage, and onions would keep nearly all their year-round for a time just by dry storage Suited for the Forest will not need to wander far produce. They cultivated an or burying with straw. Beans impressive array of vegetables could be dried. f all the canids that live gray fox, including coyotes and wide in search of food and other foods, including Other vegetables might be (or once lived) in the and bobcats. Many are also O cabbage, peppers, cucumbers, pickled or preserved in crocks Great Smoky Mountains, killed by automobiles. and females will give birth beets, onions, sunflowers, tur- as slaw or chowchow. When including the coyote, red fox, When gray fox aren’t nips, peas, carrots, tomatoes, store-bought jars became gray wolf, and red wolf, none climbing trees to find fruit, to plentiful tiny bear cubs beans, squash, melons, and widely available in the 1860s, is better adapted for life in the they might be seen prowl- pumpkins. home canning became an woods than the gray fox. Not ing the forest floor in search over the winter. In the fields, corn was option. only does the gray fox hunt of rabbits, mice, voles, and king, especially tall sturdy Sorghum making was an for a dizzying array of foods insects. varieties like Hickory Cane, autumnal ritual of turning that abound in a forest envi- The best times to see gray which is still grown at the sorghum cane into delicious ronment, this fox also has the fox are dawn, dusk, and at Mountain Farm Museum at sorghum molasses. This special ability to climb a tree night. They are found from Oconaluftee. A few farmers historic practice is kept alive to reach some of them. the lowest elevations in the grew other grains as well, in the national park today One example is an obser- park up to about 4,000 feet. In including wheat, oats, rye, and through demonstrations at vation made in by recent years their populations sorghum cane. Cades Cove Visitor Center and field biologists of a gray fox have been pressured by the Apples and other fruits the Mountain Farm Museum climbing into a persimmon natural migration of coyotes were also ripening around this (see pages 12-13 for a sched- tree to eat the fruit. Other from the West to the Smokies. time of year. Families nurtured ule). Visitors can watch cane foods the gray fox might Coyotes were first observed a variety of apples, including being squeezed through the go out on a limb to procure in Great Smoky Mountains Cullasaga, Brushy Mountain horse-powered mill and the include apples, wild grapes, National Park in the 1980s and Limbertwig, Buff, and Ear- juice carefully cooked down to hickory nuts and cherries. their population has grown ly Harvest. They also grew molasses. Tree climbing, made possible substantially since. peaches and plums. If you would like to learn by the fox’s curved claws Gray fox often den in Autumn was not only more about life on a mountain and pivoting paws, has other ground hog burrows they harvest time, it was the crucial farm, an audio tour called advantages as well, namely have taken over and modified. time for putting food by, as “From Field to Fork” is now eluding predators. Females give birth to 3-4 pups well. Without refrigeration available for a small fee at the Several animals prey on in early spring. (other than the springhouse) Mountain Farm Museum. smokies trip planner to order maps and guides: www.SmokiesInformation.org accommodations pets in the park

LeConte Lodge (accessible by Pets are allowed in frontcoun-

BILL LEA PHOTO trail only) provides the only try campgrounds and beside lodging in the park. Call (865) roads as long as they are 429-5704. restrained at all times. Pets For information on lodg- are not allowed on park trails, smokies guide ing outside the park: except for the Gatlinburg Bryson City 1-800-867-9246 and trails. Smokies Guide is produced 1-828-788-0034 Dogs on these trails must be Fontana 1-800-849-2258 leashed. four times per year by Great Gatlinburg 1-800-588-1817 Smoky Mountains Asso- Maggie Valley 1-800-624-4431 opportunities ciation and Great Smoky Pigeon Forge 1-855-716-6199 Youth & adult programs at Mountains National Park. Sevierville 1-888-889-7415 Tremont: gsmit.org; (865) Publication dates are roughly Townsend 1-800-525-6834 448-6709. as follows: Educational programs from the Smoky Mountain Field School: SPRING: March 15 smfs.utk.edu; (865) 974-0150. SUMMER: June 1 Join Great Smoky Mountains AUTUMN: September 15 Association at SmokiesInfor- WINTER: December 1 Nine campgrounds will be open in the national park this fall. mation.org; 1-888-898-9102 MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY Support the park with camping in the the national park Friends Contributing Editor : friendsofthesmokies. Steve Kemp The The list below shows org; 1-800-845-5665. maintains developed camp- number of sites, elevations, NPS Coordinator special events grounds at nine locations in fees, approximate 2016 opera- Stephanie Sutton the park. There are no show- tion dates, and maximum RV September 17 Editorial Board ers or hookups other than lengths. Dates are subject to Mountain Life Festival Joy Absher circuits for special medical change. Visit www.nps.gov/ Mountain Farm Museum Lynda Doucette uses at Cades Cove, Elkmont, grsm for current information. Kristine Johnson and Smokemont. ABRAMS CREEK 16 sites, December 10 Mike Maslona Campsites at Elkmont, elev. 1,125’, $14, open May 27- Bicycle and pedestrian morning Festival of Christmas Past Smokemont, Cataloochee, Oct. 10, 12’ trailers Sugarlands Visitor Center Laurel Rematore on Cades Cove Loop Road. Cosby, and Cades Cove BALSAM MOUNTAIN 46 Contributors may be reserved. For reser- sites, elev. 5,310’, $14, open bicycling December 17 Lisa Horstman, Karen Key, vations call 1-877-444-6777 May 27-Oct. 10, 30’ RVs Most park roads are too Holiday Homecoming Emma Dufort or contact www.recreation. BIG CREEK 12 sites, elev. narrow and heavily traveled Oconaluftee Visitor Center gov. Sites may be reserved 1,700’, $14, open April 8-Oct. by automobiles for safe or picnic areas © 2016 Great Smoky up to six months in advance. 31, tents only enjoyable bicycling. However, Reservations are required at CADES COVE 159 sites, elev. Mountains Association Cades Cove Loop Road is Please see pages 8-9 for loca- Cataloochee Campground. 1,807’, $17-$20, open year- an exception. This 11-mile, tions of picnic areas. All have Other park campgrounds are round, 35’-40’ RVs one-way, paved road pro- charcoal grills for cooking. GSMA first-come, first-served. CATALOOCHEE 27 sites, vides bicyclists with excellent Look Rock picnic area will not P.O. Box 130 Site occupancy is limited elev. 2,610’, $20, open opportunities for viewing open this year. Gatlinburg, TN 37738 to six people and two vehicles March 25-Oct. 31, reserva- wildlife and historic sites. (a trailer = 1 vehicle). The tions required, 31’ RVs Helmets are required for visitor centers maximum stay is 14 days. COSBY 157 sites, elev. 2,459’, persons age 16 and under and Fall hours of operation for Special camping sites for $14, April 8-Oct. 31, 25’ RVs are strongly recommended for park visitor centers are; Oco- large groups are available sea- DEEP CREEK 92 sites, elev. all bicyclists. naluftee & Sugarlands, 8-6:30. sonally at Big Creek, Cades 1,800’, $17, open April 8-Oct. From mid-May through Cades Cove, 9-6:30. Cling- Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, 31, 26’ RVs mid-Sept., on Wednesday mans Dome, 10-6. Deep Creek, Elkmont, and ELKMONT 220 sites, elev. and Saturday mornings, only Smokemont. Group sites must 2,150’, $17-$23, open March bicycles and pedestrians are other services printed on recycled paper be reserved. Call 1-877-444- 11-Nov. 27, 32’-35’ RVs allowed on Cades Cove Loop 6777 or contact www.recre- LOOK ROCK Closed Road. Bicycles may be rented There are no gas stations, ation.gov. Group sites may SMOKEMONT 142 sites, elev. at the Cades Cove Camp- showers, or restaurants in the be reserved up to one year in 2,198’, $17-$20, open year- ground store next to Cades national park. Mt. LeConte advance. round, 35’-40’ RVs Cove Campground. Lodge is the only lodging.

2 d smokies guide, Fall 2016 park information for additional information, visit www.nps.gov/grsm

Gatlinburg, TN elev. 1,462’ Mt. Le Conte elev. 6,593’

Avg. High Low Precip. Avg. High Low Precip. DRIVING Jan. 49° 27° 4.0” 36° 18° 6.7” DISTANCES &

Feb. 53° 28° 4.1” 37° 19° 5.6” ESTIMATED PHOTO JIM MOWBRAY March 62° 35° 5.5” 44° 25° 7.0” TIMES April 71° 42° 4.5” 52° 31° 6.7” May 77° 50° 5.7” 58° 39° 8.0” June 82° 58° 5.8” 64° 47° 8.7” Cherokee, NC to: July 85° 62° 6.3” 67° 50° 9.0” Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) Aug. 84° 61° 5.3” 67° 49° 7.6” Cades Cove: 57 miles (2 hours) Sept. 79° 55° 4.7” 62° 44° 7.2” : 18 miles Oct. 70° 43° 2.9” 55° 35° 4.7” (½ hour) Nov. 60° 34° 3.4” 46° 27° 6.8” : Dec. 51° 28° 4.6” 38° 20° 6.4” 25 miles (¾ hour) The above temperature and precipitation averages are based on data for Cataloochee: 39 miles the last 20 years. Temperatures are in degrees fahrenheit. An average (1½ hours) Primitive backcountry shelters like this one at Double Springs Gap are of over 84” (7 feet) of precipitation falls on the higher elevations of the Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) located along the and near the summit of Mt. Le Smokies. On Mt. Le Conte, an average of 82.8” of falls per year. Conte. Reservations are required for all campers in the backcountry. horse riding Gatlinburg, TN to: Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) Backcountry Camping in the Smokies Horseback riding is generally Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) available from early March Newfound Gap: 16 miles Camping at a backcountry 441). (865) 436-1297. into November. Rates are $30 campsite or shelter can be an 3. Make your reservation (½ hour) per hour. Most stables have exciting adventure for per- through the backcountry maximum rider weight limits Clingmans Dome: sons properly equipped and office at Sugarlands Visi- MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY of 225 or 250 pounds and 23 miles (¾ hour) informed. To facilitate this ac- tor Center (by phone or in age restrictions for children. Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours) tivity, the National Park Ser- person) or online at www. Please call the stables below Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles vice maintains over 800 miles smokiespermits.nps.gov. or stop at a visitor center for (¼ hour) of trails and more than 100 Reservations and permits detailed information. backcountry campsites and are required for all overnight Deep Creek: shelters throughout the park. stays in the backcountry. CADES COVE (865) 448-9009 48 miles (1½ hours) One of the greatest challenges The cost is $4 per person per cadescovestables.com for backcountry campers is night. Reservations may be SMOKEMONT (828) 497-2373 Townsend, TN to: deciding where to go. Here made up to 30 days in ad- smokemontridingstable.com Fishing for brook trout is now Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) are some tools to help. vance. 1. SMOKY MTN (865) 436-5634 allowed in park streams. Newfound Gap: 34 miles Go online to view the Rangers will need to smokymountainridingstables. park’s official trail map rescue over 100 people in the (1¼ hours) com fishing (www.nps.gov/grsm/plan- backcountry this year. If you SUGARLANDS (865) 436- Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) yourvisit/maps.htm), which don’t want to be one of them: Fishing is permitted year- 3535 sugarlandsridingstables. Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) shows all park trails, camp- • Ditch the sandals. Sturdy round in the park, but a com Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) sites, and shelters. Park rules hiking boots are the best way to or Hayrides and carriage and regulations are also listed prevent a lower leg injury. fishing license is required. Cataloochee: rides ($12 per person) are here. If you wish, you can • Know when the sun sets. Either state license is valid 87 miles (2¼ hours) available from Cades Cove purchase the printed version Many hikes turn into rescues throughout the park and no Riding Stable. Wagon rides of the trail map for $1 by stop- because people get caught out trout stamp is required. A ($10 per person) are offered at ping at any park visitor center on trails after dark without flash- special permit is required for Smokemont. Souvenir photos, or calling (865) 436-7318 x226 lights or headlamps. the Cherokee Reservation and tee-shirts, hats, and ice may or shopping online at www. • Know your limits. Don’t plan Gatlinburg. Licenses are avail- be available. Soft drink vend- SmokiesInformation.org. a 15-mile hike unless you are in able in nearby towns. Fishing ing is available. 2. Call or stop by the park’s spectacular physical condition with bait is prohibited. The Park Service operates backcountry office (open and have done such hikes in A free fishing map with in- horse camps at Cades Cove, every day from 8:00 a.m. to mountain terrain recently. formation about park streams Big Creek, Cataloochee, and 5:00 p.m). The office is located • Prepare for the weather. and a complete list of all park Round Bottom. Call 877-444- in Sugarlands Visitor Center, These mountains are green fishing regulations is avail- 6777 or visit www.Recreation. two miles south of Gatlinburg because it rains a whole lot here. able at park visitor centers. gov for reservations. on Newfound Gap Road (U.S. Always carry rain gear. Stay dry.

smokies guide, Fall 2016 d 3 great sights to see A dozen must-see places in the Great Smoky Mountains KENT CAVE PHOTO KENT CAVE

WHERE TO BEAT THE CROWDS

Road Closed If you want to beat the October crowds, try some The observation tower atop the of these off-the-beaten-path Smokies highest peak, 6,643’. destinations.

Waterrock Knob 9. Look Rock walking trail 1. clingmans dome and tower. Great views, just off the Foothills Park- A paved, but very steep, 0.5 way West, 18 miles from mile trail leads to an obser- Townsend, TN. vation tower that offers 360° views of the Great Smoky of Gatlinburg, TN on U.S. 441. 7. deep creek 10. Cataloochee Valley. Mountains and beyond. To get Highlights include flora and This remote area is accessi- there: turn off Newfound Gap fauna exhibits, a 20-minute waterfalls ble only by narrow, winding film in the surround-sound Road 0.1 mile south of New- BILL LEA PHOTO secondary roads. But when theater, an information desk, found Gap and follow the Around 2 miles of walk- you arrive, there are elk to 7-mile-long Clingmans Dome and bookstore. Several short ing will acquaint you with nature trails also begin at the watch, historic buildings Road to the large parking area beautiful Deep Creek and center, as do ranger-led walks to explore, and plenty of at the end. A visitor center is three pretty waterfalls (Juney and talks. Open every day trails to walk. 39 miles from located along the trail to the Whank, Tom Branch, and except Christmas. Cherokee; 65 miles from tower. Indian Creek). The trails to Gatlinburg. The road to Clingmans 4. water-powered the waterfalls start from the Dome is closed from Decem- large parking area at the end 11. Cosby Campground, ber 1 through March 31 due to grist mills of Deep Creek Road (across Picnic Area, and hiking weather. the creek from Deep Creek trails. The campground rare- 2. andrews bald Two historic, water-powered The Davis-Queen house at the Campground). Deep Creek ly fills, and there are short grist mills operate from 9-5 Mountain Farm Museum. also features a picnic area. and long trails to waterfalls, daily, grinding corn into corn views, and Mt. Cammerer “Balds” are mountaintop meal. Cable Mill sits in Cades 6. oconaluftee 8. mt. le conte fire tower. The campground meadows of mysterious ori- Cove (halfway around the is 20 miles from Gatlinburg, gin. Andrews offers panoram- one-way loop road). Mingus history museums The to Mt. Le TN. ic mountain views in favor- Mill is 2 miles north of Cher- Conte and LeConte Lodge will able weather. The 3.6 mile okee, NC on U.S. 441 (New- This history buff’s paradise be closed Mondays-Thursdays 12. Fontana Dam and Lake. roundtrip hike to Andrews found Gap Road). Corn meal now offers free indoor and Bald is along Forney Ridge for trail repairs through late A TVA visitor center and is available for purchase. outdoor museums. It also fea- Trail and starts from the end November. However, there are tours highlight the highest tures old-time breeds of live- of Clingmans Dome parking 5. newfound gap plenty of alternatives for hik- dam in the East. Fontana area. The trail leads through stock (seasonally) an heirloom ers to this popular peak. The Marina offers boat rentals high elevation spruce-fir forest garden and row crops and Boulevard Trail starts from and shuttles for access to re- with evergreen trees and un- This gap is a low point in the occasional historic demonstra- Newfound Gap and runs 8.1 mote, historic areas like Ha- usual flora and fauna. mountain range and strad- tions. The new visitor center miles to LeConte Lodge. Bull zel Creek and Eagle Creek. dles the boundary of North and mountain farm museum Head and Rainbow Falls trails 33 miles from Bryson City. 3. sugarlands visitor Carolina and Tennessee. From are located on U.S. 441 (New- begin from Cherokee Orchard center here one can enjoy spectacular found Gap Road), 2 miles (near downtown Gatlinburg) views into both states and take north of Cherokee, NC. A new and are 6.9 and 6.7 miles a short stroll along the famous audio tour of the farm can be respectively. From the Green- It’s fun, it’s free, and it’s easy Appalachian Trail. There are rented at the visitor center for to find. Sugarlands Visitor brier area, Brushy Mountain also restrooms and the historic a small fee. Open every day Center is located 2 miles south and Trillium Gap trails lead Rockefeller Memorial. except Christmas. 9.1 miles to the summit.

4 d smokies guide, Fall 2016 park news Great Smoky Mountains National Park protects over 800 square miles of land National Park Crews Use Fire to Help Native Service New Briefs Plants, Wildlife, and Park History Park Garners $10 Million for Road landscape from out-of-control wildfires that can wreak hav- oc on people and property. IT LOOKS LIKE THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, Federal Regular fires keep forests and Highways Administration, and state of Tennessee at long last BILL LEA PHOTO grasslands open and healthy. have the funding in place to complete the 33-mile long sec- Over the past two decades, tion of the west between Walland, TN and over 20,000 acres have been Wears Valley. The parkway runs outside the main boundaries burned to maintain Smokies of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and offers spectac- health and diversity. ular views of the Smokies. In July the Park Service and other Fires Planned for 2016 agencies received word they would receive a special $10 mil- Over 3,800 acres in Great lion federal grant, which when combined with state and Park Smoky Mountains National Service funds, will be enough to finish the project in 2018. Park are planned to be treated with prescribed fire this fall. Visitors Can Become Field Scientists This Fall In Cades Cove the goals are to maintain open meadows Controlled burns in Cades Cove help maintain historic landscapes by and improve critical habitat VISITORS TO THE SMOKIES can now help scientists learn burning the young trees that would otherwise reforest the meadows. for wildlife. In addition, the how plants respond to changes in climate locally, regionally, fires will maintain the historic and nationally. Scientists are looking for information on things lthough most people nate and grow. landscape of Cades Cove, and like when tree leaves change color, when they fall off, and think of the Great Smoky Fire consumes decay- reduce woody intrusion and when they unfurl in the spring. Visitors can help by sending in MountainsA as a rainy place re- ing vegetation and releases non-native plants in grassy observations on any plant they see here, or by reporting on 10 splendent with waterfalls and nutrients that promote new meadows. Resource manag- ers plan to burn 1,200 acres in species of trees found in the Smokies. rushing mountain streams, growth, improves habitat, Cades Cove in September and To get started, simply pick up observation forms at some 30-40% of the park is and increases food sources. October 2016. Sugarlands or Oconaluftee visitor center or download the app actually dry pine and oak By burning intensely in some covered ridges that depend areas and cooler in others, Cataloochee Plans called Mobile Budburst (app.budburst.org). Then you just on fire for health and regener- prescribed fire can create a In Cataloochee, crews use need to observe, record, and report to budburst.org. ation. puzzle-like mosaic of diverse fire to invigorate the remain- Since 1996, Great Smoky habitats for plants ing fire-adapt- Tree Hazards Close Parson Branch Road Mountains National Park and animals. ed oak and has been using prescribed Hawks and pine forests fire, also called controlled other birds of prey and improve PARSON BRANCH ROAD, A NARROW, ONE-WAY graveled burns, to help restore pine hunt along the oak woodland roadway which connects Cades Cove Loop Road and highway and oak forest, maintain edges of burns PHOTO KEN VOORHIS habitat to sus- 129, has been temporarily closed due to the large number of grassy meadows and historic and find cover in tain numerous dead eastern hemlock trees along the roadside. Most of the landscapes in Cades Cove, unburned areas. diverse plant trees were killed by the hemlock woolly adelgid, a non-native and protect life and property. Deer feed on and animal pest which has wiped out more than half the park’s hemlocks. Prescribed fires are only con- nutritious, succu- species (includ- ducted under specific weather lent new shoots ing elk). The conditions when favorable of grasses and fires should Please Leave Your Firewood at Home fire behavior and personnel shrubs that appear Fire helps plants like Table also reduce and public safety goals can be after fire. Fire reduc- Mountain pine and many the density of WOOD-BORING INSECTS FROM EUROPE and Asia have achieved. es shade tolerant types of wildflowers and shade toler- the potential to devastate over 40 species of hardwood trees in Many Great Smoky trees and shrubs, grasses regenerate. ant trees and the Great Smoky Mountains. To help prevent this catastrophe Mountains species depend on like maples, which shrubs which from ever happening, the National Park Service has imposed fire or use fire for their bene- encroach on oak forests. Fire threaten natural communities and lower the risk of wildfires restrictions on the type of firewood that can be brought into fit. Table Mountain pine, only reduces maples, allowing found in the Appalachian young oaks to survive. The by reducing burnable vegeta- the national park. Only certified, heat-treated firewood may Mountains, would not repro- oaks in turn produce acorns tion. Resource managers plan now be brought into the park, though dead and down wood duce without fire. Fire melts which sustain elk, black bear, to burn approximately 2,600 may still be collected inside the park for campfires here. Certi- the resin on Table Mountain turkey, and other wildlife that acres in the Cataloochee area fied wood is now available for sale both inside and outside the pine cones to release the seeds depend upon acorns for food. in November 2016, weather park. For more information visit www.nps.gov/grsm. in nutrient-rich beds of ash Regular, low-intensity permitting. where seeds will then germi- prescribed fires protect the

smokies guide, Fall 2016 p 5 Women of the Smokies Life stories of 19 women who shaped and were shaped by the Smoky Mountains

tories of the women who worked and lived in the SGreat Smoky Mountains have often been short ones or have gone untold entirely. Fortunate- ly, with the publication of No Place for the Weary Kind: Women of the Great Smoky Mountains, the national park and human- kind have taken a step forward to rebalance this bias. Written by Courtney Lix and published by Great Smoky Mountains Associ- Above: Phyllis Higgenbotham ation, Women of the Smokies (far left) with Dr. Christenberry, recounts the life stories of two nurses, and Dr. John 19 women from the 19th, Massey at the Pi Beta Phi Settlement School, circa 1920. 20th, and 21st centuries who shaped and were shaped by the Smoky Mountains. The “I remember as a child those chapters are divided into mountain songs,” Dolly said, three sections: “No Place for “…so heavy and so sad, and a Weary Woman—Making a the way they sang them was Life in the Smokies,” “Moun- Women of the Smokies is available at all park visitor center stores so mournful that it just made tains as Muse—Craftswomen, and through mail order at 1-888-898-9102 x226. such an impression on me.” Artists, and Writers,” and www.SmokiesInformation.org. 294 pages; $14.95. Dolly was writing and per- “Boots in the Wilderness— forming music at a very young Women in Great Smoky age, for anyone who would Mountains National Park.” the nurses to be called out in the Stevenson overcame listen, including the chickens The chapter on Phyllis middle of the night to ride and severe back pain by hiking in her yard. Her journey from a Higginbotham and Marjo- hike deep into the mountains rugged mountain trails. little barefoot girl on a moun- rie Chalmers tells the story to administer antitoxin to a She was 52 years old when tain farm to one of the biggest of two community health baby with diptheria. “The child she started hiking in the superstars of her generation nurses who were lured to the couldn’t have lived until morn- Smokies. Author Lix re- was the result of her own deter- Gatlinburg area on behalf of ing, so there was no waiting to ports “The more she hiked, mination and perseverance, as the Pi Beta Phi fraternity for get a doctor...” she recalled. the happier she was. In 1976, tinued hiking Le Conte into well as support from her family. women, and quickly became As demanding as the job she became the first woman to her 90s. Even though Dolly’s the primary health care pro- was, both Chalmers and hike all 150 trails in the park.” No doubt the most famous economic status has changed viders for hundreds of rural Higginbotham found the work On her 80th birthday Ste- woman featured in Women of dramatically over her lifetime, farm families. more rewarding than difficult. venson made her 602nd hike the Smokies is Dolly Parton. her mountain roots are still “In the many months “…with the hill folk I have to the top of Le Conte. It was Dolly’s origins were humble. apparent in her music, speech, without a doctor in the area,” found a wealth of good things— nowhere near her last. Many of her relatives grew up and attitudes. In albums like Higginbotham wrote, “we faith and courage, wit and McNicol was not as young in the Great Smoky Mountains Heartsong, The Grass is Blue, were dependent on our own wisdom, and a kindliness that as Stevenson when she became on farms that later became and Little Sparrow she returns resources. We improvised shares even ‘the widow’s mite.’” an avid Le Conte hiker. She was incorporated into the national to the ballads of her childhood, splints, applied pressure ban- The chapter on hikers 62 and had spent a decade or park. Dolly and her ten siblings many with origins that run dages, used suction for snake Margaret Stevenson and Gracie more of her life as a near inval- were raised in a one-room straight through the Smokies bites, and took care of axe McNicol is another highlight of id. As her number of ascents cabin about ten miles from the all the way back to the British cuts, gunshot wounds, con- the book. Both women started to the lodge atop the mountain park. Their father was a share Isles. As her biographer Alanna vulsions, and bear scratches.” hiking as treatment for their grew into the hundreds, she cropper and their mother en- Nash wrote, “…her songs with In fact, during their early different ailments and became endured still more physical tertained the whole family on the greatest depth have for the years, both women averaged Smoky Mountain legends, espe- challenges, including a broken rainy winter nights by singing most part been those culled over 1,000 house calls per year. cially on the trails leading to the back and stroke. old ballads like “Barbara Allen” from her storehouse of memo- It was not unusual for one of summit of Mt. Le Conte. Undettered, McNicol con- and “Pretty Polly.” ries of her native region.”

6 smokies guide, Fall 2016 • great smokies’ fall color Q & A

Q: Who rakes all the leaves?

Q: When do fall colors in Q: What trees display the A: Because the Smokies are pre- the park reach their peak? best fall colors? served as a national park, the National Park Service lets A: That depends. THE grand A: In the Smokies, the all-stars in- nature take its finale of fall colors in the Smokies is clude maples, birches, oaks, hickories, course when usually during the last week of Oc- ash, tuliptree, sourwood, sweetgum, it comes to tober or the first week of November. dogwood, and blackgum. The hem- leaves. Remember though, it’s better to be lock, pines, and other evergreens pro- The a little early than a little late to the vide the dramatic dark green backdrop. show. The absolute peak of colors is Because there are 100 different species often followed by a cold front and of native trees in the park, plus more accompanying high winds that strip than 100 shrubs, the fall color display is many leaves from the trees. diverse and dynamic. Also, trees like dogwood and backgum start showing good color in mid September. And at the park’s highest elevations, where tempera- approximately 13 trillion leaves tures are 10-20 degrees F cooler, the that fall from trees here every year pro- peak of colors happens in early or vide food for mushrooms (please see mid October. page 15), slime molds, beetles, snails, millipedes, springtails, and worms. These organisms recycle the leaves into nutrients that can then be used by other plants and animals. By next summer, there will be nary a trace of all those leaves.

art by Emma Dufort

smokies guide, Fall 2016 d 7 GREAT FALL DRIVING TOURS AND SCENIC VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

To Knoxville To Newport To I-40 SEVIERVILLE 321 ay w Exit rk Pa 443 lls CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 hi ot Cosby Fo Park View 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE A Pittman Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail: Center Cosby 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Big 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Paved, narrow, 5.5 mile one-way road Creek 40 National Park o ers old-growth forest, il 321 ra T Information Center waterfalls, and historic buildings. Ga n No RVs, trailers, or buses. bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

ig B Mouse 129 Greenbrier Creek 411 Walland Falls Wear Valley GATLINBURG Roaring Fork es Trail Motor Nature Trail ad ay asc kw Ramsey C To Chattanooga ar (closed Nov. 27 Ramsey Mount Guyot P Cataract for winter) Little Brier CLOSED: Cascades ls Gap Trail Falls il Townsend Fighting Creek Alum Cave Trail h Porters t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands will be closed Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Grotto o School Visitor Center Mon. – Thurs. Cataloochee Valley: 8 miles from F Falls Laurel Falls Falls Trail Road through late I-40 (including 3 miles on a narrow 73 November. Fern Branch gravel road). The short road through Townsend r Grotto Falls Trail Rive Maloney Point Trail Falls the valley o ers wildlife viewing PISGAH Meigs Po Creek an rt i (including elk) and access to NATIONAL FOREST d Trail Falls Little ers h a t Top Mount T c o nu Litt Carlos Campbell ra a a historic church, school, and homes. R st le R il l e T Elkmont i Ch ve Le Conte a r r T Overlook e r p r) ai Alum Cave in e m l p Look Rock a t Trail A Schoolhouse o t n n i n Alum Cave Tower u Gap Trail Cataloochee w t o GSM Institute R Blu s M in d Valley at Tremont Newfound Gap Road: This paved h c d Overlook i e s road is the only route over the Great R lo c Lynn Camp ( Smoky Mountains. It stretches Prong Cascades for 31 miles between Gatlinburg Ab and Cherokee and climbs from an ra Middle Prong m Trail Road Prong Newfound Gap s elevation of 1,300’ to 5,046’ Abrams Abrams Fa Trail Kephart lls Creek T (at Newfound Gap). Prong (closed Nov. 1 Falls ra d Oconaluftee Exit 20 i a Trail l o for winter) R Valley e ) m r o te Overlook Smokemont D n Kanati Heintooga Ridge/ Cades Cove s i Loop n w Fork Heintooga a Trail Balsam Mountain Roads: You can Visitor Center in m Trail Chasteen g d Overlook combine these roads with the e To in s Creek Falls 276 l o Blue Ridge Parkway for a scenic C l Asheville Cades Cove Loop Road: 11-mile (c 47 mile loop from Oconaluftee Visitor Chilhowee one-way loop road o ers wildlife Thunderhead Smokemont Balsam Mountain Center that takes approximately 3-4

viewing and access to a historic grist Mountain ad hours to complete. Clingmans Dome Ro mill, churches, and log homes. e d Visitor Center v oa Allow at least 2-3 hours. o R Clingmans Dome Road: 7-mile C Mingo Maggie ch an r) Andrews Bald paved road leads to the Clingmans ig r te B Falls Valley B in rail n w T Dome trailhead. A very steep, half- o Pa rs in rkw a ek mile walk takes you to Clingmans Mingus e ay Dellwood P d re idg Horseback Riding se C R Mill e lo lu Oconaluftee (c Dome tower and the highest point B (rental) el az in the Smokies (6,643’). Visitor Center Bone Valley H Picnic Areas 19 129 Trail Mountain Farm Oconaluftee River

l Museum i Trail Camping a r

T

k

e Soco Gap

e CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION r

C 441 Nature Trails

Hazel Creek Twentymile

Loop Trail Trail p

Calderwood e

e Wolf l D CHEROKEE Lake i Major Hwys a Loop Indian Ridge r CHEROKEE Trail T Trail Creek Falls ile WAYNESVILLE m NATIONAL Twentymile enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Major Roads Tw Loop Tom Branch 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Falls Fontana ke Falls Trail Deep Lake Cascade Dam Fo vie Paved Roads Cheoah ntana w Creek Lak Dr Restrooms are available E e E Lake View at all park campgrounds, visitor centers, Gravel Roads SS A 441 E N picnic areas, Newfound Gap, and Great Smoky N LI N O BRYSON E R Mountains Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets, Trails T A C CITY port-o-johns, and other facilities are also

H Ap 28 available at some of the most popular T FONTANA pa Autumn Auto Tours R lac 74 Swain County O VILLAGE h trailheads, including Clingmans Dome, N ia Visitor Center n Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls, Abrams Falls, Great Mountain Views

Alum Cave, and the Townsend “Wye.”

JOYCE T B r KILMER - SLICKROCK a lu i 23 e WILDERNESS AREA l 74 R 129 id ge Santeetlah P ark Lake wa SYLVA y NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2016 143 28 441 23

www.SmokiesInformation.org Fall 2016 ❧ 8 vwww.SmokiesInformation.org Fall 2016 ❧ 9 GREAT FALL DRIVING TOURS AND SCENIC VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

To Knoxville To Newport To I-40 SEVIERVILLE 321 ay w Exit rk Pa 443 lls CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 hi ot Cosby Fo Park View 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE A Pittman Mount Cammerer Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail: Center Cosby 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Big 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Paved, narrow, 5.5 mile one-way road Creek 40 National Park o ers old-growth forest, il 321 ra T Information Center waterfalls, and historic buildings. Ga n No RVs, trailers, or buses. bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

ig B Mouse 129 Greenbrier Creek 411 Walland Falls Wear Valley GATLINBURG Roaring Fork es Trail Motor Nature Trail ad ay asc kw Ramsey C To Chattanooga ar (closed Nov. 27 Ramsey Mount Guyot P Cataract for winter) Little Brier CLOSED: Cascades ls Gap Trail Falls il Townsend Fighting Creek Alum Cave Trail h Porters t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands will be closed Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Grotto o School Visitor Center Mon. – Thurs. Cataloochee Valley: 8 miles from F Falls Laurel Falls Falls Trail Road through late I-40 (including 3 miles on a narrow 73 November. Fern Branch gravel road). The short road through Townsend r Grotto Falls Trail Rive Maloney Point Trail Falls the valley o ers wildlife viewing PISGAH Meigs Po Creek an rt i (including elk) and access to NATIONAL FOREST d Trail Falls Little ers h a t Top Mount T c o nu Litt Carlos Campbell ra a a historic church, school, and homes. R st le R il l e T Elkmont i Ch ve Le Conte a r r T Overlook e r p r) ai Alum Cave in e m l p Look Rock a t Trail A Schoolhouse o t n n i n Alum Cave Tower u Gap Trail Cataloochee w t o GSM Institute R Blu s M in d Valley at Tremont Newfound Gap Road: This paved h c d Overlook i e s road is the only route over the Great R lo c Lynn Camp ( Smoky Mountains. It stretches Prong Cascades for 31 miles between Gatlinburg Ab and Cherokee and climbs from an ra Middle Prong m Trail Road Prong Newfound Gap s elevation of 1,300’ to 5,046’ Abrams Abrams Fa Trail Kephart lls Creek T (at Newfound Gap). Prong (closed Nov. 1 Falls ra d Oconaluftee Exit 20 i a Trail l o for winter) R Valley e ) m r o te Overlook Smokemont D n Kanati Heintooga Ridge/ Cades Cove s i Loop n w Fork Heintooga a Trail Balsam Mountain Roads: You can Visitor Center in m Trail Chasteen g d Overlook combine these roads with the e To in s Creek Falls 276 l o Blue Ridge Parkway for a scenic C l Asheville Cades Cove Loop Road: 11-mile (c 47 mile loop from Oconaluftee Visitor Chilhowee one-way loop road o ers wildlife Thunderhead Smokemont Balsam Mountain Center that takes approximately 3-4

viewing and access to a historic grist Mountain ad hours to complete. Clingmans Dome Ro mill, churches, and log homes. e d Visitor Center v oa Allow at least 2-3 hours. o R Clingmans Dome Road: 7-mile C Mingo Maggie ch an r) Andrews Bald paved road leads to the Clingmans ig r te B Falls Valley B in rail n w T Dome trailhead. A very steep, half- o Pa rs in rkw a ek mile walk takes you to Clingmans Mingus e ay Dellwood P d re idg Horseback Riding se C R Mill e lo lu Oconaluftee (c Dome tower and the highest point B (rental) el az in the Smokies (6,643’). Visitor Center Bone Valley H Picnic Areas 19 129 Trail Mountain Farm Oconaluftee River

l Museum i Trail Camping a r

T

k

e Soco Gap

e CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION r

C 441 Nature Trails

Hazel Creek Twentymile

Loop Trail Trail p

Calderwood e

e Wolf l D CHEROKEE Lake i Major Hwys a Loop Indian Ridge r CHEROKEE Trail T Trail Creek Falls ile WAYNESVILLE m NATIONAL Twentymile enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Major Roads Tw Loop Tom Branch 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Falls Fontana ke Falls Trail Deep Lake Cascade Dam Fo vie Paved Roads Cheoah ntana w Creek Lak Dr Restrooms are available E e E Lake View at all park campgrounds, visitor centers, Gravel Roads SS A 441 E N picnic areas, Newfound Gap, and Great Smoky N LI N O BRYSON E R Mountains Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets, Trails T A C CITY port-o-johns, and other facilities are also

H Ap 28 available at some of the most popular T FONTANA pa Autumn Auto Tours R lac 74 Swain County O VILLAGE h trailheads, including Clingmans Dome, N ia Visitor Center n Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls, Abrams Falls, Great Mountain Views

Alum Cave, and the Townsend “Wye.”

JOYCE T B r KILMER - SLICKROCK a lu i 23 e WILDERNESS AREA l 74 R 129 id ge Santeetlah P ark Lake wa SYLVA y NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2016 143 28 441 23

www.SmokiesInformation.org Fall 2016 ❧ 8 vwww.SmokiesInformation.org Fall 2016 ❧ 9 free, fun things to do explore the Smokies with a ranger or park volunteer

MEETING SUGARLANDS/ELKMONT AREA DURATION DIFFICULTY LOCATION

Autumn Amble: Join a ranger to discover the wonderous world of the Smokies in fall. Loca- Varies 2.5 hours Moderate tions will vary as the leaf color peaks at different elevations.

Hike to Andrews Bald: Toss your day pack in the car and join a ranger on a 3.6 mile round trip stroll through one of the Smoky Mountains’ most interesting ecosystems. This moderate hike Forney Ridge 3 hours Moderate will take you out to Andrews Bald, a beautiful meadow on a mountaintop. You can hike leisurely Trailhead back to the parking lot on your own after reaching the bald or return with the ranger.

A Walk in the Woods: Do you have a few minutes? Get away from the hustle and bustle by Sugarlands Visitor 1.5 hours Easy taking an easy stroll and discover stories of history and nature along this scenic, wooded trail. Center

Creation of a Park: Drop in anytime between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m. to chat with a ranger about Newfound Gap 2 hours Easy how the Smokies was created. This unique story is sure to intrigue the whole family.

Geology Rocks! Amaze your friends with newfound knowledge about how these mountains Clingmans Dome 1 hour Easy were born and how they have changed over time Visitor Center

Highland Homeland: Sit a spell on the front porch of the Ogle cabin and learn about the fami- Noah Bud 1.5 hours Easy lies who once lived here. Demonstrations and activities will vary throughout the season. Ogle Cabin

Slimy Salamanders: Join a Ranger to explore the damp, dark world of the park’s most popular Chimneys Picnic Area amphibian. Be prepared to get a little wet and even a little dirty as we search for this slimy creature. near Cove Hardwood 1 hour Easy Closed-toed shoes recommended. Nature Trail

Junior Ranger: Creature Feature: Did you know that thousands and thousands of differ- Sugarlands Visitor ent kinds of plants and animals live in the Smokies? Join a ranger to learn about some of the crea- 30 minutes Easy Center tures that live here during this “Ranger’s Choice” style program.

Evening Campfire:Join a ranger for a National Park tradition—the evening campfire program. Elkmont Campground 1 hour Easy Topics vary, but you’re guaranteed to learn something new about the Great Smoky Mountains.

METCALF BOTTOMS AREA

Junior Ranger: School Days at Little Greenbrier: Go back in time to discover what Little Greenbrier it was like to live in a mountain community and go to school in a one-room schoolhouse. Fun for all 1.5 hours Easy School ages, and great for Junior Rangers. Please arrive 15 minutes before program start; space is limited.

CADES COVE AREA Cades Cove Visitor Continuous

Cades Cove Evening Hayride: Enjoy a ranger-led open air hayride viewing wildlife and Cades Cove Riding 1 ½ - 2 hours Easy discovering the diversity of Cades Cove. Stables

Cades Cove Cades Cove Night Hike: Join a park ranger for an evening walk discovering the night crea- Orientation Shelter 1.5 hours Easy tures of the Cove. Children under 14 must be accompanied by an adult. Bring a flashlight. at the Entrance to the Loop Road Junior Ranger Program: Join a park ranger for a hands-on exploration of the Smokies. Partic- Cades Cove Visitor 30 - 45 minutes Easy ipation counts towards earning a Junior Ranger badge and certificate. Center

Cades Cove Visitor WILD by Design: A short talk and demonstration about the wild things in the Smokies. Center/Cable Mill 30 minutes Easy Area

PROGRAMS AND ACTIVITIES IN GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS

10 v smokies guide, Fall 2016 PROGRAMS AND ACTIVITIES IN GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK—SEPTEMBER 18-OCTOBER 29, 2016 ONLY

ACCESSIBLE MON. TUES. WED. THURS. FRI. SAT. SUN. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

Limited to 20 participants. Call (865) 436-1291 up to 4 days in advance to No 9:00 A.M. 9:00 AM make reservations. Sturdy footwear, snacks, and water recommended.

Sturdy footwear, a lunch, and water No 10:00 A.M. recommended.

No 11:00 A.M. 11:00 A.M. 11:00 A.M. 11:00 A.M. 11:00 A.M. 11:00 A.M. 11:00 A.M.

12:00 P.M. to 12:00 P.M. to 12:00 P.M. to Yes 2:00 P.M. 2:00 P.M. 2:00 P.M.

yes 1:00 P.M. 1:00 P.M.

No 1:30 P.M. 1:30 P.M. 1:30 P.M.

Limited to 25 participants. Call (865) No 2:00 P.M. 2:00 P.M. 2:00 P.M. 436-1291 up to 4 days in advance to make reservations.

Yes 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M.

*Check at Sugarlands VC or Yes * * Campground Office

11:00 A.M. No & 2:00 P.M.

Yes 4:00 P.M. Hayride Fee: $14.00/person

No 7:30 P.M.

Yes . 1:00 P.M. 1:00 P.M.

Yes . 2:30 P.M. 2:30 P.M.

NATIONAL PARK—SEPTEMBER 18–OCTOBER 29, 2016

11 v smokies guide, Fall 2016 MEETING OCONALUFTEE AREA DURATION DIFFICULTY LOCATION

Porch Talk: Salamanders of the Smokies: Discover why the Smokies is considered the Oconaluftee Visitor 30 minutes Easy Salamander Capital of the World. Center Porch

Smokemont Nature Smokemont History Walk: Join a Ranger for a short history walk exploring the local Easy to Trail in the Smokemont 1 hour Smokemont area in the early 1900s. Moderate Campground

Smokemont Nature Logging in the Smokies: Join a ranger to enjoy a short nature walk and uncover Easy to Trail in the Smokemont 1 hour Smokemont’s logging history. Half mile walk. Moderate Campground

Junior Ranger: River Ramble: Relax and cool off along a mountain stream. This easy walk Oconaluftee River 1 hour Easy with a ranger offers you an amazing opportunity to explore the Smokies only minutes from your car. Trailhead

Junior Ranger: Porch Program: Join a Ranger on the porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Cen- Oconaluftee Visitor ter to discover what makes Great Smoky Mountains National Park so special. Topics vary so feel free 30 minutes Easy Center Porch to come more than once!

Longing for the “Good Ol’ Days”: You’ve heard it before but was it really the “good ol’ Mountain Farm days?” Join a ranger for a walk on the Mountain Farm Museum and learn about the “new comers” 45 minutes Easy Museum who settled here and farmed this land.

Junior Ranger: Smoky Mountain Elk: It’s all about connection and balance in nature to Palmer House, ensure survival for elk and other species living together in an ecosystem. Learn about the history of 45 minutes Easy Cataloochee Valley the elk through “show and tell” activities. Then stay and watch the elk come into in the fields!

SPECIAL PROGRAMS

Hike Bradleytown to Campground: Smokemont Bap- Join Park Volunteer Dick Sellers for an easy 2 hour stroll through time from early Bradleytown to the tist Church (near Easy to 2 hours present campground. Learn how this area transformed from a forested haven to a barren wasteland Smokemont Camp- Moderate and back again. Afterwards visitors may choose to hike to the Bradley Fork Cemetery with Dick. ground entrance)

Blacksmith Demonstration: Learn the art of blacksmithing and why it was important in Cades Cove Ongoing Easy the Cades Cove community. Visitor Center 6 hours

Science Friday: Join a scientist on the 3rd Friday of the month to learn about and engage in on- Sugarlands Visitor going scientific research happening inside Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Topics vary each 2 hours Easy Center month.

Back Porch Old-Time Music Jam: Bring an acoustic instrument and join in on this old- Oconaluftee Visitor time jam. Or just sit back and enjoy the sights and sounds as others play traditional Appalachian 2 hours Easy Center Porch music.

Sorghum Making Demonstration Watch horses and humans combine their efforts to Cades Cove Visitor 2 hours Easy transform sorghum cane into delicious sorghum molasses. Center

PROGRAMS AND ACTIVITIES IN GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS

12 d smokies guide, Fall 2016 ACCESSIBLE MON. TUES. WED. THURS. FRI. SAT. SUN. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

Yes 2:00 P.M. All ages welcome.

No 11:00 A.M.

No 1:00 P.M.

Yes 1:00 P.M.

Yes 1:00 P.M.

Yes 11:00 A.M. 2:00 P.M.

Yes 5:30 P.M.

9:00 A.M. Walking shoes & water bottle recom- No Oct. 1, 15, 29 mended.

10:00 A.M. – 10:00 A.M. – Yes 4:00 P.M. 4:00 P.M. October 15 October 16

1:00 P.M. Yes Sept. 16 October 21

1:00 P.M. Yes Oct.1, 15 Nov. 19

Sept. 18, 25 Sept. 16, 23 Sept. 17 Nov. 6, 13, Yes Nov. 4, 11, Nov. 5, 12, 20, 27 18, 25 19, 26

NATIONAL PARK—SEPTEMBER 18–OCTOBER 29, 2016

smokies guide, Fall 2016 d 13 top five fall hikes Hike the Smokies!

SUTTON RIDGE OVERLOOK Gatlinburg MT. CAMMERER Townsend LOOK ROCK TOWER

CLINGMANS DOME THOMAS DIVIDE TRAIL Cherokee

SUTTON RIDGE OVERLOOK PACK YOUR PACK Roundtrip distance: 2.9 miles Going for a day hike in the park this fall? Your pack should include the Difficulty:Moderate following items: Trailhead: The Lower Mt. Cammerer Trail starts from the Cosby Picnic Area ❑ Drinking water (at least two quarts if you’ll be hiking all day). near Cosby Campground. ❑ Trail map Highlight: Late fall view from Overlook ❑ Rain gear ❑ Snacks (high energy foods like nuts and trail bars) MT. CAMMERER ❑ Jacket Roundtrip distance: 11.2 miles Remember, your cell phone will not find Difficulty: Strenuous service at most locations in the park. Trailhead: Low Gap Trail starts from the Cosby Picnic Area near Cosby Camp- ground. Follow it to the Appalachian Trail and the A.T. to the Mt. Cammerer Trail. Highlight: Views from the historic firetower

LOOK ROCK TOWER Roundtrip distance: 1.0 mile Difficulty: Easy Trailhead: Foothills Parkway West between Chilhowee Lake and Walland. Highlight: Late fall views from the observation tower

CLINGMANS DOME TOWER Roundtrip distance: 1.0 mile HIKE 100 IN THE SMOKIES Difficulty:Strenuous There’s still time to earn your Hike 100 pin. All you need to do is hike 100 Trailhead: The parking area at the end of Clingmans Dome Road. miles in the Smokies between January 1, 2016 and December 6, 2016 as a way Highlight: Views from the observation tower of celebrating the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service. The 100 miles THOMAS DIVIDE TRAIL can be logged on any officially maintained park trail. All trail miles count, whether they’re on the same trail over and over or on 50 different trails. Roundtrip distance: 3.6 miles Successful 100-milers will be rewarded with a commemorative Hike 100 Difficulty:Moderate pin and be recognized at a special ceremony with the park superintendent Trailhead: Thomas Divide Trail starts 3 miles south of Newfound Gap on New- on December 8. Hikers will also have the opportunity to hike four miles with found Gap Road. Hike 1.8 miles to jct. with Kanati Fork Trail and return the Superintendent Cassius Cash on the Oconaluftee River Trail on December 3. way you came. For more information on the Challenge, and to download a free Hike 100 Highlight: Early fall views from ridgetop log sheet, please visit www.nps.gov/grsm. Those who have already reached the 100 mile mark should send an email to: [email protected].

14 d smokies guide, Fall 2016 foxfire Magical mushrooms that glow in the dark

ushrooms like places with lots of rain and lots Honey agaric mushroom Armillaria mellea of trees. Doesn’t that sound like the Great Smoky Mountains? According to Dis- cover Life in America, the organization thatM coordinates the park’s inventories of flora and fauna, there are at least 2,798 species of mushrooms and other fungi in the national park. In fact, researchers have counted over 30 species of fungi on the bark of a single tree in the Smokies! Of the thousands of mushrooms that flourish here, some of the most inter- esting are those with bioluminescence (they glow in the dark). Nobody knows for sure why mushrooms glow, but one interesting theory is that the light at- Jack-o’-lantern mushroom tracts insects that help spread the species Clitocybe illudens around. Honey agaric mushrooms (Armil- laria mellea) can be found from August through October at places like and Cades Cove. Its mycelium (root-like strands) infiltrate rotting wood and makes it glow with a yellow, green or bluish light. This glow can be quite bright in some cases. An ancient term for this phenomenon is “fox fire.” The jack-o-lantern (Clitocybe illudens) is an attractive orangish-red mushroom that appears in the park in summer and fall. It often grows from oak or chestnut stumps. The jack-o-lantern has ridges Astringent panus mushroom (called gills) beneath the cap that emit a Panus stypticus soft, dim light. Several parts of the Astringent panus (Panus stypticus) mushroom glow, includ- ing the cap, gills, and mycelium. This small species grows on wood in such places as Elkmont and Cades Cove.

smokies guide, Fall 2016 • 15 visitor information for more information, www.nps.gov/grsm information emergencies hospitals regulations accessibility

General park information: Listed below are some num- Le Conte/Sevier County •Picking or digging Restrooms at all park visitor (865) 436-1200 bers to call for emergencies (865) 446-7000, Middle Creek plants is prohibited. centers (Cades Cove, Cling- www.nps.gov/grsm that arise after hours. Rd., Sevierville, TN. •Persons feeding wildlife mans Dome, Oconaluftee, Backcountry information Park Headquarters Blount Memorial (865) 983- are subject to a $5,000 fine. and Sugarlands) are fully (865) 436-1297 (865) 436-9171 7211, U.S. 321, Maryville, TN. •Pets are not permitted accessible. www.smokiespermits.nps.gov Cherokee Police Haywood County (828) 456- on most park trails. Only the Valley all-access nature trail To order maps and guides (828) 497-4131 7311, Waynesville, NC. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee is located on Newfound Gap (865) 436-7318 x226 Gatlinburg Police Swain County (828) 488-2155, River trails allow dogs on a Road just south of Sugarlands www.smokiesinformation.org (865) 436-5181 Bryson City, NC. leash. Visitor Center.

Exit 417

© GSMA-13