-.r-'+ '^s -l ffornantife cLoobs/fl/u?q tL oolr7/lflo^ow') An houroutside ol Berlin.theprimar- ily Sorbianpopulation of the Spreewaldliver among and along 500 milet of waterways.Not only k the maild€livered by punt but chil- drengo to sdoolandadulG travelto wolk byth€se vessels.

maisesof rocl depositlctt bchind, thc Sprecrcachcd an areasoudreasr ol Berh whcr., becauseof the ilat rerranr,it bcgrDsprcading our iD a laceworkofchaDnels. Reg'ddlessof the lenion you pre- ter, $e resuhis a regionso snrgular in Etrropethat it ir under sp€ciai Uncscoprotecdon: 600 Dil€sofshJ- ror! rvatenvaysconnec ng torvnsj himlets, and isolaed faimstc,tds $ar Iou can naligate cirhcr by rcDted canoes,or punls i\'ith scatirg up 1o 35, htckyrc, bc assi$rcdspdLrD quimeN i)r siee.€d b) pole ren. Evell t}le lctld cmi panr or llrdc trn;olrnn hoskls, ir r1"r en and deliverymencodrebvtx)al. And in .rDcxotic holid destination.Novadars \viDer,when the Flics\ehccz., ie sbl€s fiose numbcrsrre clcD higher. 'Acruallv aDdsleds ar€ fie best\q ro gerdound. 1ilrlchas changed," said The abundanceof ratcr als creared Ulricb Sch.iler, operatofot re ptrru on an agricultrral cornucopia.The arer is rvhicbI look an explomrortridc hst hll. "ln famots tor cucumbers,horseradirhes, Ge.milD DeD(,crrrri. Rcpublic pumpkir)s,onions, celcry, and hedx rhar (cDR) drys ve had rew indnidual visi- '!L.g.table made il thc biri of lgrh,ceD- tus but busloadsof lictor.l, urrion, o. otltr taft,ups.Toda) our passcgers are Morcorcr, t)tc Sprcer"ld is re homc- mosd,vindj\idrnl n"lelers, btt Ne'n.iust lmd ofdre &'rbs, the SlavicdescendanLs asbus,v. ADd \{e gerdps." of rhc WcndsNhom $e K)igbts of rhe Though prnrtc hotclsrnd restau Teuto'tic Ordcr and the Margravesof rants-nos1 of them modcrrtely Meissenand Brandenburg subdu€d nr priced-ha\€ mrlsbroome(lsiDce drc fall lincr r{erlirg, clotlrmakiDg,and beer, th€ 12th and l3th cenluries.Snrce rllcn, of the BerliDWall, rhcy arc bookcd dur bfewi,rg cetrtcr iD ihe Middle Ages. Ir thoughofLtr discrimiDareda$a;$r btlrat ing summer schoollnc.uio s. Thus thc declinediD nr)portnlcc dunrg Lheea'ly other timcs protecledlike a threrLer)ed bcsitime to conreis;n springorlxll, aDd IndrNtrialRe\dudoD but soon regai ed spccics,this elhtric nr;nc,rity 0160,000 has pfosprrih nr thc lale 19th cc turl rvhcn m:uagcd to prcs(rlc i$ cuhurt to sKh r The bcs(s(.r(irrL poill is Lnbbenau rhirt na oN1{augcnih\,ar bcgr brilg- dcgrcefiat in tows like l.nbbenar .iDd (LubnjoN) population 22,000, thc inli \vcekcnd t(trrisrs. But sonre of lhe LnbbcD,or fillagesl;ke lfhdc and Burg large( roNnh tlrr i:gioD and the nnnis Sprrr\lald s oldcsl inrs, such as thc signs{c nr B{olangutlgei. dc epicenrerol rr O/prp,"adald(Uppef Ctist\&tk zu Ftnhlihpn Hi^ril aDd $c Srndl $ord€., dren, tiur fic Sprtc$dd SprceNald),r landscapcof scorcsor qtsblti ( WoLehafe\a,d^te brcl ro thc h;Lslong beeDrourislic urdl Thc fi.sl nill. irhnds rd derr\' ivooded.n er banks. 1700s.These afe the spor\ to sanrplethe rnr"gauge railroad, bcrllrcD Q)rbus aDd Liibbellauhad ils beginnings:rsI lbr- localcnisiDc:Qr@/l (rmcarcasc) $irlr liD I-iibbenau,began opcration in 1898.h (illed seltlcnrentof the Lnsizi,I $'csl sccdoil an.l bo;ledporaroes, calp soup, connccledvilh ounk Iincsto B.din, Shyic tribe, rfho begansc(ling here in boikd bccf Nifi horsemdishsrucc, par Dresden,and thc ririesof SilcsianDd the 6th or 7fi certury-Remnarrs ofrlrtk f.icd arder \ith pot(o salad,pike and broughldroruands ol Yisito$ro dredea. Droirlrd,cafllFvrllcd g${cDnrn,arrrr$ ccl n cream) s.rLrces,and rccoDrpaDied E\€n nr ConnDudsrtnnes, rvhcn oDl,v \vereexcretcd oD thc gundsolS.IIoss $idr pictlesolurious kinds. EastGermans and lrsl BerliDers\ve|t l-irbbenxu,lbc casdeoi thr lo.r1 lods, Or a lrcckday it s an iDviting rorvn therc becauseothers Dccdcdlisas lhN thatNrs built oD dresite ol (hisSlNic {t- \!irh nano\v, .obblestoDcsllceLs, liDed Nere l"rely gnurtcd,drc Spreellltlddit\ tlcnrcDlinlhc ca$ l'1 r cenrur'. br hrll:rin$cfcd houscs.Thc Drainiea- an avengeol oDcmillnn \isitox annrnl- Drspilc constant rt|ile ber\vccrrthc ltnc o{ i$ luafltplat is thc lllth{entu_-f I,!.t'or tho$e\vho conld DoteveDralelro burghcrs rDd !hc ruli L counts, Skxltkn1tuSt. Nikolai(St. NicholasCiry orher ColJnrnnistcounlfies bur Nere LiibbeDanbhssoDred into rD irnportaDl (lhL'xh). Ncxr thc squrrerou ll nnd

APRIL/MAY1999.6[RMAN IIFE ?i) (Loob ) /ll /!00Yt'' t dre rvorkin coopenti\ts, soNc ofwhich har€ s.ijr$, or Casde,Lnbbcnau. September1944. Like rnany odrers in for 100 G)tree, be€r. wine, The pres€ntstrucNre is neDclalsical plot, the lhmily,consisting of his$'idow existed )cals. soli drinks are serrcd on board. in sryle.Over the centuriesit had manl andChristian, thcn 10,wns expropnated aDd ire at"ilrble to shade and oeners,;nnong them ihe Cormlsvon der by the Nazis.f,ast Celman authorities Uftbrelhs }{ the bldnlets to keep $arm Pricesavcrage Sch lenburg lanilY, one of $'hose upheldth€ confiscaionand tumcd )N DM i, (nbort per hotr descendants,Friedrich von der castleinto a school,but allowedCountess $3) Per Penon in One of rlt mostrc$nrding roundtnPs SchulenbuB,$'$ Nizi Germanys amba-e L),narand Christianto continte h'ing ln t95:l fron Ltibbenrr, vhich can red ce sadorto Moscow,help€d draft the Hitl€r- threeofirs morethan 50 rooms Yotr zu by abont an hour bI N"lkn g back along Stalinpact, and then rvascxecuted rn dley {led to WestGennmy Chri*ian $e clearly mafkcd trails, is th€ three hour Nov€rnber1944 for his part in lhe Plot to L)ll;ir srrcc€sstullyreclaimed ProPery (krmany\ and excurdon dut inchdes a smp ar lhe \il' kill Hider.In 162lthe Sch! e'lbrrgs sold afier 1990reunilicaiion lage ot Lehdc rnd its opeFan 'nuselm the casdeand lands surrounding hastumed it inlo a toPcalegory hotel of thrmhorsesand Sorbirn crEtoms lt rs Lnbbenauto CountJohannSicgmund zu ln lhe caitle'sformer chancelleryand ajourney through FliessedeDsell lnr€d Lynar,scion of a Tuscanfamily closelv orang€ryyou lvill find the spree\eald dt as bf \{eepingwillo$s, si\cr ashes' linked to the Medicis,who had cone to Mtlseum,a colection of Sorbicfblk PoPlars, birches,aDd alder tre€s,many rvttl) Cermanyttrrongh trrde in flax. The rvell a5porceldin, faiences, and ponrarts lnrnk-s fi\c leet in diameter and nead,va Lynarshave owned the castleever of L)'Darthmi\ memb€rs,including oncs andF.A Tischbein.An centLrryold. Patchesof N.rterlili€s and since---€xceptfor 46 )tars dunng vhich byAntoine Pesne a com- rceds narro\v th€ chaDncls to litde more theywere exproPriated, Iirst by the Ndzis old nanowgaugelocornotive and car are In than sixor eighi feetin vidth. andthen by theCommunists. The exprc binrtion pnssengeFand'freight "gondoli€rs" The ustally lociftrous priarionis patl of the story' a nearlryhrll. to rvho propel the bargeswirh long CountWilheln Fritdrich z Lynrr, hon rhe mustumit is a shon \mlk Poles s 6{0K,rnliltuln'ke ihat reacb down three to Iir€ feet to the th€ father of the Presentorvner' eidrerof Lnbbenau lor a bouoorsof the channels,will tellyou that Chris an, w"s a Wehnnachtnl4or, adlu- hubo$ rvh€re)ou canboird a Punt to ten the Nhole rtea is a rnique llioklgical trnt to Field Marshalf,rwin Yon choiceofexcursions L$ting Iiom $o (ay. enclaleaDd that ro lessdran ibrr {ore WiElebenimd, Iik€ Schr enbrrg' one of hours\vith seieral stops along fie privrte\' pails of storl\ reum h€re to roosl each the key nembersof the consPiracyto The Rat-boltonedboars are (rerrpten) who year-But the islandsrre alsolery'n clr assassinateHitler. He Nrs execntedin opented b) l'r?/Dlinrur irhabned by fhrmers, craftsnen' and vacationersivho lilc in the wooden, js tlutchroofed hor$cs A uniquefeaNrc the ernblem of t\o .rossed, cr-oNned headsof snakcson tbe liont gable of nearly clet hotrse.The Sd angenkiniq (snakeking)-representative of the nng' neck snakesand slorsvonns dral abound here-plays a bcnign protecti\r role in So$inn mlthologl Ahhough there rre fe\r rcads che patlN, foor bidges, and ercn a (for residcntsoDly) dlatconnect dre larg- vho hc Straupitz er isleb noNada)s,most PeoPle and work there stilt trael by rorvboaisor prnls. When your punt PtrllsuP to onc i'r the suncls on the shores, finnels sell fieil legerables, handicratts, and Piclled cucnnlbers. Lehde (Led)) is \vherc raD,!Prn$ stoptbr lunch or afi€moon coffeeat lhe Rasoll 7Gl€aHrld $atch-roofcd. hall-timbered Cdf6 Venedig. aDd rvhere }1 can decide Nhcther to conlin € or Nalk back lo Lirbb€rrau.It h but one of $e coloffirl lillagcstlut l-oucan seeoD longerexcur- sions,how€lcr it is the most Pictuesque and romantic.fbr thc hamlct of 200 has prescryedirs original characterand - HighwayI15 appearance.Theodr)r Fontalc calledit a 'lr'eDice in \$$ocket sirc"

26 GERMANLITE'APRIL/MAY I999 ( Lebzftfoqr-q Landof the Sorbs Forall ther coodul customs, and their role protectthe Sorbs. lt s!pported asa tounstattraction tn the obeFand preservatronof their language with Niedeausitz, the Sorbsare not just part of subsidizednewspapers, pub ishing the Spreewad3{olklore. They are a living houses,a radio station, and schools, reminderthat Germany in ill modemgeo- andsponsorcd their cuhural events. graphicalconfiglrations isthe retu t of east- 8ut therewas a plce to pay. wardexpansion inthe MiddleAges. Althoughthe Domowinawa5 TheSorbs are ethnic-cultural'l nguistic ree(ablished.it was subverted and descendantsof the Wen Slavic peopleswho becamevirtually an extension of the seftledbetween the Oderand Elberive6 tulingCommunist pany. aroundA.D.600. They inhabited lhose terri- FollowingGermany3 reunifica- toriesfor halfa millenn!m beforethe tionin 1990,the Bonn govenment GermanicFranks and Saxonsarrived. tashedmost central support for the Counllessplace nameS in easlernGermany 5orb5,and rejected proposals to attestto theirlongpesence. Schwerin (fron amendthe consttltron to givethe the Slavicword zwer, meaning a wildani- Sorbsofficial status as a culturaflin- mal),Kamenz (frcm kamen, meaning rock), guinicmrnority, such as that enjoyed Leipzig(from lipz, the placelnder the lin, bythe approximately 50,000 Danes dentrees), or the BerJinboroughs of inSchleswig-Holstein. Spandau(origiially Spandowo), and Eecausetheir tefiitory was divided by the Sodian Lacht (nativecostume) {rom the Kdpenick(called Copenice in Slavic)are reconstltutedttates of Saxony(tipper town of Bu€ someexamples. Lusatia)and Brandenburg (Lower Lusatia), N4ostof the otherWest€m Slavs were responsibilityfor preservng Sofbian cllture of Softianstudles, and chairsoi Sobian an- eitherslaughtered or forcedto lleeeastward passedto thosetwo stategovernments. guageand literature at the univeGitiesof intotoday's Poland and Czech Republic duF Currentfedelal government funds amount Lepzig and Potsdam. "For ngthe mid 12th- to midl3th,cenlury cam- to aboutDM 16 million(19.5 mi ion)but the nextfew decadesprcspects of paignsby the lvargravesof Brandenburg aredle to becut in halfby the year 2007; preseNingthe langirage and culture are fair- and lvlerssenand the Knightsof the fundingby the two states comes to another ly good,"says Dietrich Scholze, director of "b!t Teltonicoader to conquerthe tearitories DM20 million ($12 million). theSorbian Insthute, lwouldnot make ean of lhe Ebe. Birt the sorbsstayed put. konicallyths division.orrespondsrough- longer-lermpredict ons. Assimiation into Thoughthey adopted many teachings, ly wilh the linglistcand rcigious divBions Gefinancuiture seems inevilable uness we Christianty,and the German ianglage from withinthe Sorb communty. Their language gainspeciai political statu5." theirocc!piers, they also preserved their hastwo dialects: lJpper Sorb, which is closer Sorbidentity is alrothreatened by con ownidiom and many pagan clstorns. Frcm to C2ech,and Lower 50lb, which is akin to linuingdestructron of theirvi lagecu ture the [/idde Agesinto the 19thcentlry they Polish.The Upper Sorbs, who inhabitthe throughstrip mininq oi gnite.This began wereoppressed and subjeded to repeated Obedaustuare predominantly Catholic; the uarderEast Geman cornmunsm and cont n- attemptsat forcedassimialion. LowerSorbs oi the Niederlausitzand the uesunder post-1990 capitalism. Between Inthe early 20th century they enjoyed a Spreewaldin Brandenburgare mainly 1945and 1989 some 46 Sorbianvilaqes biei respte, but hopeso{ a stateof their LutheranProleslant. wererazed and destroyed by brontosaurus, own,like Poland and Czecho-Slovaka were Thesubsidies are used to suppona va likeexcavatoB thdt turn the andsbetween neverrealized. They we€ crr.rellypersecuted etyof culturaland educatlonal activities. Balizenand Cottbut inlo horrorcapes. in theThird Reich. The Nazis dsbanded the ln the obe aLrsitzlhere are 37 primary Homo(Rogow), population 350-is nexl Sorbs'cultural societies, notably the schoolsin whichSorbian is taught,and a on the listof the LaustzB.own Coal Co.p. Domowina(Homeland), their umbrella orga secondaryschool n Bautzenin whicha I (La!bag).Last -lune Brandenburg s supreme nizatlon.lvany Sorb eade6 were tncarcefat, couEesexcept phystcs, mathematc5, dnd courtruled that forced resettlement ol ed in concentrationcamps. There were chemisvyare in Sorbian.There are 22 Homo'sinhabitants would not contravene plarsto depodthe entre Sorbian popllace Sofblanlanguage schools, inc uding three thestate constitution's guarantee of Sorbian to German-occuptedparts of Eattern secondaryschools, inthe Niederausit?. minorilystatus. Hornol burgheG have filed Europe. Tworadio stations broadcast Sorbian a clastaction appeal at theEuropean Coun "lra- AfterWor d Warll, to demonstrate prograrns,and two dailySoftian newspa- of Justice,which is expected to rulesome "alliance" temty" and withthe Slavic coun- pelsare published. triesof the sovietbloc, East Gerrnany's Inaddition there are Sorbian museums in Communistfegirne bent over backwads to Bautzenand Cottbus, theaters, an institute )ohnDanberg

APRIT/MAYI999'GERMAN LITT 27

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i When your punt pulls up on shore,local farmeE selltheir vegetablet,handioafB, and pickledcu('rmbers. Polish{tyle, cobalt-bluepottery k erpeciallypopular (bottomlefl). The ruinsof a Cistercian monasteryand.hapel date backto the mid-12thcentury (top right). Ihe iE:r- Spreewald'squiet canakar€ not the only watelwaysiud outsideof Be in {top l€tt). / /Ji ..0 F -.' cLuLa'r//1t Lato 2 l.fhd. \ l)iggcstrtrrrcrior i' rhr b.nn11'5r\(itr l,xl lllb\iir.Ilu\\ lirrrl rurr 1l'rrr{ p1,tr1\l,, irrr,itc(l(rnk Iin)r sli11ttLt Itrtlaul"tre ru \Bltttr\I) .\I|.tl l\ riur)pIr{l ar rlif lSl (i)|!rc\\,)J rl'f l.lrh(rnnr\. lhf (lrlcsin Sr\01r\ Lttl)rtlr'Ltl\i,, S,),l,iIi)ri, 1't)cr.rlr InrrDr \nn1rrh. (irnn,!r ljjr!(linr\.u(l o\.(l it o(.r\i,)nxll\,ts,r srn!D(f rrsi- trrrsclrnrol rl,,eelulli liriri\lif(lIril t,in.ip,tliri.\r.,rligrn{l rlrfi, h!{lers. h) (lL'rrr.\l(,sr ,n rh. rirn i1\q\ tlr( !.rt ,)l r.trLil)pcrls,,,l,iL hrIr\ri(ls\rirh li)0 rlt nrrrhfn p,rr,)11,r\i, tl(!c rr. \rill rh.ir L,xrl. trrininrrt,,,\.ll,i,u,rh LIlc \(rr!)kl l()! :,,r1tl,i ,|li,rnc(l hrikli|!\. rcnr',d'rs()l rhc (rn( | dciii\e\,,1tl(. lrrh- bnikliD!r!^r h,r$f\ Drrnr.iprl,,llnc\. ir v)trc,,1tl,rrr In,riShr thcr. h,,nrrh. ..nr'rr !r'h l(i1[\\..\]Lh,,ughl.ilbb.! ir!r, p,,:nf\:, itnll ,ru!1n,,i,i l,{rl hir lrrSf, \ill!!c ,Jlling .\rn{rii rhfnr.rr' ,r \i\ ilri'()\rSi t,.,(oir .1.\n,)\r.lb\ r(,\ \l'i.lr iil(luilesrlic I|tl)lorull. n 1).,1,,\.l)r,,,\. r,!l r \nrk\l!'p Ii)r nr,tl ,'rrillc,\b,rrbx,(l,i,ci,r (lurjIS rh. [sr ,)r',nr i',,r R!,rLi$r,,(cIirll. ,i,trru\.(l L,,gtl( t)u,,1\.1l,f rhrcc{lirncr\!rnlpn n!r'rh ()l \\ifki \\ri ll. r !cri(fr,,1 il\ lir'.,nmlr\ Ir\\.,11\ inrt( (.ili,,,r0c I i(lL 1,,,f,n rl,r( liii \Q\ lil. i,,rrh( 5,,r1)' tr!!ln\rl b,nt \rll. ni(l(liIi.{n\(, (;,)rhi( ]\ ,!r,ru'(r,((!lritl, ,,rnrls(t(pic ns I l(j 1q1,,,r\ xr.tri{rilturrl ri,,'ls. (,)1,,r llll\ \.u.Ir,tr\crs.\tr\nc(l xrxl h$ Inlrr \rcll .s."r.hr,)i'\l,,d (,,r1\,J1r n\,)l' t)xi,it(!llurriltLrc. c,\rLnr.r. rn(l ((nurr hr!r d t,r,t ic {l(\criln(ll.ilbbdr,ts,t S,r\(n,i:,,ir,lcis,!,(l l.iilnxlrl,r.ls l(s l!trrnl!'l(i xiilr{rs. lr ij (,trii rl,Lih \l((p\ Jxrnirg l,)\L!. \hi.h it h,r\ Iill)bfrris Lhf {kt)rrnuf poinrli,f \,il rhi{rsho.r,)l)d.lirrn rIf rrL^c ,e,irxireil.1Ls nrrirr ltlrrr.ri(,r\ irc rlrr KthMt)ltt11r^tlh.,rtnIll.\rursn,rj.,n urnir is r l(inu(l\lir.irrrrr\.LLlh.rL tu,i\l,clr!rah rxlrlk l;rlk|Irr\ .arl(. l,\,,1,, cighl h,{tr \ k' b,,rhrhr Lrr,crrnd (ihruch) Il\t \nrltlti\tu ((li1\ is 1)lli t i)tJffsIf(e\rl(l \.r rhc (rsrli \orl (nrhr(lr Liibben(l.Ibir). p,)prhri,rr l l.i)r)0 (ixlh (rlleil rl( l)rul linrlf iI (rl rlv, Icrr (M\ otrl t)addlLh,rtls li, dxi*\.r' n'rks r! h\r\r,)1Lrlblj|,iru.i\ lrrrr ,,1irs l;rhnrtr\ p,r\r(, l,nFi(l- (lirlcinn!ll r\pl,rfli( . lnI il \,rr.1,,. y1,r(1|.d!.rr (ir rlr( ,.!i, \ 1(r\rr:tr,(l rli, (,((l ,n( iJlrh. grcrr(n rnri. |\D,L:,1 l!' !nf t)ickul) ! hikiDSbikiBrhirir! ij . r,, lhr I rttt.\lturnltl tt.n\\(i li crr Ih.r.isr'r.nrk r,lIirii,, 1,,n,r gui(ieb,n,lr(, rhL \irdri\\. T|,\ i,ff I Slnrr\xkl).\),rlkrl h,rrAf ir i\ r l.\r ,,1rhc D'r'r' p,,rr,'1. Ir i\,, ll,,.c{r\.(i Inu. iir\rhtr} ir a r,ts\r,, !{ | 1,\r llfr l,rir id,thlu(l(.l.,l()rhi 1(^ni\i,i hr.(;,,rhi(hrll .hrur'hrirlj y,,,( lii,c Ii,,rnl.ilbh.! ir i\.u ll Dril(rlfi\c rh( rrfr. ir \as r,,r, l\ a:il{ ()li\r1,1 rli,rit rl)( r,]rrhrrr h,)rr(lxrr,)l th( rnd.(rnli(r h.n\(1r,(;(.,,,,r,r\ r,r(t Sh\\ Thrs{|l,a\.,, lnc t pprr sprcr\il(l 1,)r|{ \ilhsc i)1 h . l.u.riD rln l;rl,,rrl IStl,(.ri1rri.\ rh .|ru(h.is .r bfi(k Snrupi'ir rh. h.,!1,n r LLl,rltrli(

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