© Lonely Planet Publications 75 Lake Geneva & Vaud East of Geneva, Western Europe’s biggest lake stretches like a giant liquid mirror between French-speaking Canton de Vaud (pronounced Voh; Waadt in German) on its northern LAKE GENEVA & VAUD shore and France to the south. Known to most as Lake Geneva, to Francophones (except some in Geneva!) it is Lac Léman. Lined by the elegant city of Lausanne and a phalanx of pretty smaller towns, the Swiss side of the lake presents the marvellous emerald spectacle of tightly ranked vineyards spreading in terraces up the steep hillsides of the Lavaux area. These grapes and those grown to the west of Lausanne produce some fine tipples and it is possible to visit some caveaux (cellars). Modest beaches, often backed by peaceful woodland, dot the lake, and around Montreux the climate is mild enough for palm trees to thrive. Jutting out over the waters of the lake near Montreux is the fairytale Château de Chillon, the first of many that await exploration a short way inland. Lake-lovers can head north to Yverdon-les-Bains, which sits on the southern tip of Lac de Neuchâtel and offers the chance to relax in tempting thermal baths. At its southeast corner the canton rises into the magnificent mountain country of the Alpes Vaudoises (Vaud Alps), a hikers’ paradise in spring and summer, and skiers’ haven in winter. Those addicted to the white stuff can even indulge in moderate summer skiing across the impressive Les Diablerets glacier. In July, music rocks the lake with Montreux’s international jazz get-together and Nyon’s multifaceted Paléo music fest. HIGHLIGHTS Marvelling at the fairy-tale Château de Chillon ( p89 ) near Montreux Pondering the bizarre in Lausanne’s unique Musée de l’Art Brut ( p81 ) Touring the Lavaux vineyards ( p88 ) east of Musée de Lavaux Lausanne l'Art Brut vineyards Lake Montreux Hiking and skiing around Les Diablerets Geneva Nyon ( p95 ) in the striking Alpes Vaudoises Château de Chillon Grooving along to music festivals: jazz in Les Diablerets Montreux ( p90 ) and rock at the Paléo Festival in Nyon ( p87 ) POPULATION: 632,000 AREA: 3212 SQ KM LANGUAGE: FRENCH 76 LAKE GENEVA & VAUD •• History www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com LAUSANNE •• History 77 History in 1032 Vaud became part of the Holy in December 1797. The following month, among the museums, the unusual l’Art Brut As early as 58 BC, Caesar’s troops had Roman Empire. Vaud was declared independent. In 1803 collection stands out. Sports fans will love penetrated what is now southwest Swit- In the 12th and 13th centuries the Dukes Napoleon imposed the Act of Mediation the Musée Olympique. Throughout the year zerland. In the succeeding centuries a of Savoy slowly assumed control of Vaud that created the Swiss Confederation in Lausanne’s citizens are treated to a busy arts mix of Celtic tribes and Romans rubbed and embarked on the construction of im- which Vaud, with Lausanne as its capital, calendar. along in peace and prosperity. Aventicum pressive lakeside castles. became one of six separate cantons. (today Avenches) became the capital, with The Canton of Bern appreciatively took History as many as 20,000 inhabitants, and nu- over those castles when, in 1536, it declared Orientation & Information The Romans first set up camp on the lake at merous other towns (such as Lausanne) war on Savoy and seized Vaud. Despite the Vaud straddles the three main geographi- Vidy, a key halt on the route from Italy to flourished. tendency of Bern’s bailiffs to siphon off cal regions of Switzerland: the Jura moun- Gaul that came to be known as Lousonna. LAKE GENEVA & VAUD By the 4th century AD, the Romans local wealth, by the 18th century Lausanne tains in the west, the relatively flat plain In the face of an invasion by the Alemanni had largely pulled out of Switzerland and (the area’s capital) was a thriving centre. of the Plateau Central (Mittelland), and a in the 4th century AD, Lousonna’s inhabit- Germanic tribes stepped into the vacuum. The French Revolution in 1789 had smidgen of the Alps in the southeast. ants fled to the hilly inland site that became Christianised Burgundians arrived in the heavy consequences for its neighbours. On Along its northern flank it is bordered the heart of medieval Lausanne. southwest in the 5th century and picked up the urging of Fréderic César de la Harpe, by the Neuchâtel and Fribourg cantons. To In 1529 Guillaume Farel, one of Calvin’s the Vulgar Latin tongue that was the pre- leader of the Liberal Party, the Directorate the south lies France (briefly interrupted followers, arrived in town preaching the cursor to French. Absorbed by the Franks, in Paris placed Vaud under its protection by the frontier with Geneva canton) and to Reformation but it wasn’t until Bern oc- the southeast the Valais, while to the east cupied the city (not a shot was fired) seven 0 20 km LAKE GENEVA & VAUD LAKE GENEVA & VAUD 0 12 miles the German part of the country starts with years later that the Catholics were obliged the canton of Bern. to take notice. To Biel-Bienne (14km) BERN The Canton de Vaud tourist office (Map p78 ; From the 18th century, Lausanne exerted NEUCHÂTEL To F R A N C E Solothurn %021 613 26 26; www.lake-geneva-region.ch; Ave a fascination over writers and free-think- (32km) Neuchâtel d’Ouchy 60, 1006, Ouchy, Lausanne; h8am-5.30pm Mon- ers, attracting such characters as Voltaire, Kerzers Fri) provides regional information, including Dickens, Byron and TS Eliot (who wrote hiking- and cycling-route brochures. The Waste Land here). Pontarlier Lac de Morat Murten For information on Avenches and Pay- Lausanne, with only 10,000 inhabitants, Lac de To Bern Buttes Neuchâtel Avenches (16km) erne, which are part of Vaud, see p106. became capital of the Vaud canton in 1803. In addition to the normal Swiss national The city began to take on its present ap- Le Chasseron A12 (1607m) Estavayer- le-Lac holidays, the people of Vaud also take off St pearance with rapid development occurring Payerne Grandson Sainte Croix Basil’s Day (2 January) and the Federal Day from the latter half of the 19th century. of Fasting (Lundi du Jeûne) on the third Today, Lausanne is a busy, vibrant city. Fribourg Fort Yverdon- Monday in September. Home to the Federal Tribunal, the highest les-Bains Pré-Giroud Orbe court in the country, the International Oly- Vallorbe Orbe A9 Lucens Getting Around mpic Committee (IOC), Tetra Pak and the Col du Mont Le Day Romainmôtier FRIBOURG Regional Pass (7-day pass 1st/2nd class Sfr155/107) d'Orzeires Croy The multinational tobacco conglomerate Philip Juraparc Moudon provides free bus and train travel through- Morris, it also boasts a fairly boisterous Le Pont La Sarraz Lac de A1 Echallens out the canton three days in seven, and wining and dining scene. Joux Cossonay Bulle Charmey half-price travel on the other four days. It Broc Le Brassus VAUD Epagny also gives 50% off CGN boat services as Orientation Col du Gruyères Marchairuz A12 Enney well as 25% off some cable cars (eg up to The Vieille Ville (Old Town), with its wind- (1447m) To Interlaken (68km) Les Diablerets glacier). There is a five-day ing, hilly streets topped by the cathedral, is Morez St Sulpice Lausanne Grandvaux N5 Morges version with two days of free travel (1st/2nd north of the train station. Busy Rue Cent- Vidy Épesses Rougemont St Prex Lutry Chardonne Château class Sfr129/89). Holders of one of the vari- rale runs along the valley that separates the Ouchy Cully d'Oex Château Blonay La Cure St Cergue Lake Geneva Gstaad ous Swiss rail passes (see p333 ) receive a Vieille Ville from another hill topped by Pl Rolle d'Allaman St Saphorin Vevey (Lac Léman) Montreux Rochers 20% discount off the Regional Pass. St François and its church. This square is Territet de Naye A1 Caux (2042m) the main hub for local transport, and off Château de Evian- Villeneuve Chillon Nyon les-Bains it to the east runs the shopping boulevard Thonon- A9 Le Sépey LAUSANNE of Rue de Bourg. One of the country’s top les-Bains VALAIS Leysin Coppet Les Diablerets addresses in the 19th century (and on the Aigle pop 116,330 / elevation 495m Swiss version of Monopoly), it lost some of Villars To Lyon This hilly city (loh-san), Switzerland’s fifth its class with the arrival of fast-food joints F R A N C E Monthey (135km) Gryon largest (and third most visited after Geneva and poor renovation. Just west and down- Bex GENEVA and Zürich), enjoys a blessed location. The hill from Pl St François is Flon, an area of VALAIS To Martigny medieval centre is dominated by one of the formerly derelict late 19th-century ware- Geneva (13km) country’s grandest Gothic cathedrals and, houses now partly taken over by a cinema 78 LAUSANNE www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com LAUSANNE •• Information 79 0 300 m LAUSANNE 0 0.2 miles complex, art galleries, trendy shops, restaur- h9am-7pm) in the train station is handiest ants and bars. The city long ago enveloped for new arrivals. The other office (Map p78 ; Pl de ACB D the picturesque lakeside village of Ouchy. la Navigation 4; h9am-6pm, 9am-8pm Apr-Sep) is next Bois de door to the Ouchy metro station. Ask about Sauvabelin Ave des Bergières Route du Information the Lausanne Card (Sfr15, valid for two Signal ᝲᝲ 1 To A1 Motorway (4km); BOOKSHOP days), which includes free public transport, Yverdon-les-Bains (38km); 18 5 Neuchâtel (75km) ὈὈ With a broad selection of material on Swit- 20% to 30% discounts on museums and dis- 6 zerland and books in English, Librairie Payot counts in some shops and restaurants.