6 WOW - What’s On Where Friday,November 30, 2012 Friday,November 30, 2012 WOW - What’s On Where 7 EATING OUT A GLASS ACT The tarka dhal (lentils) was up to its usual excellent standard, the smoky FOR CHRISTMAS taste coming through. We never fail to order – or enjoy – this dish. Stephen JACKSON Liquid news Stephen is co-owner and chef at T&Cake Café, Almondbury

WHETHER you’re shopping for a present his week, we’re following our to lift the spirits, would like to say “Merry Christmas” with a bottle, or simply want to Tcricketers over to India. At the make a good impression, there’s an array Looking forward to time of writing, we’re doing of attractively packaged offerings to very well in the second test, please the nearest and dearest. thanks to the mighty Monty Last action heroes: Oozing old-style charm, Panesar, and I hope we keep it up. Space these two handsome labels from India is very high up on my travel wishlist award-winning winery Nederburg have – it just looks so wonderfully vibrant, been created to honour some of the major friendly and somehow magical. figures in South African winemaking. The It always comes across as such a Heritage Heroes range includes The the Monsoon season beguilingly colourful place; the deep greens Young Airhawk (£14.99, Morrisons), a of the trees and grasses, the warm orange zesty sauvignon blanc with good glow of the sunlight, the purple of the minerality; and The Motorcycle Marvel distant Himalayas, the rich ochres of the (£14.99, Morrisons), a Rhone-style blend fresh spices in the markets, and the bright In-Vada jam-packed with spicy flavour and sweet neon pinks and greens of the silks. red berries. Not only that, but the food of India is one A berry good cause: Soft and sweet, of my very favourite cuisines, from the smooth and silky, the clean taste of fresh, coconut-based fish curries of Kerala Belvedere Vodka has earned it an A-list to the dark, chili-laced stews of the north following, and Belvedere (RED) Special via the opulence of the rich cuisine of the Edition (£34.50, Waitrose) celebrates the Punjab. second year of its partnership with (RED). We could do a recipe a week and not cover The charity founded by Bono partners the whole repertoire of Indian food in with the world’s most iconic brands to literally decades of articles. raise proceeds This week, though, we’re concentrating on for the Global something a little more snack-y. Fund, with Something, in fact, that will be on offer at Belvedere the little stalls around the stadium in contributing Mumbai. 50% of profits to We’re having a go at the classic Indian help the fight street-food, the Vada Pav. Apparently against invented by a snack vendor outside a HIV/Aids. railway station in Maharashtra in the early Gin palaces are 70s, the vada pav is simply a potato fritter in season: LINDA in a bun, but in reality it’s a Adored by mouthwatering combination of hot, serious gin WHITWAM crunchy, spicy, smooth and chewy. drinkers and Made for snacking on the hoof, it’s the mixologists, equivalent of our beefburger or cheese and Tanqueray’s he Monsoon is something people pickle roll – something really tasty that slick gift box takes little effort to eat, and which is cheap look forward to in Slaithwaite. I’m and readily available. has been Treferring not to the torrential rain designed with The potato is mashed and blended with which has battered the place for much of spices and aromatic vegetables, then is cocktail lovers this year, but to the Indian restaurant in mind. The chilled in shaped patties before being interior features which lies at the heart of the village. dipped in a rich turmeric-laced chickpea Since the Monsoon Tandoori Restaurant opened batter. a This fries to a stunning crisp pink coating vintage-themed illustrated guide on how to almost 13 years ago, it has established itself at a focal point for the community – and not just for (the curcumin in the turmeric reacts to the throw the perfect cocktail party and comes heat – it’s quite alarming first time you see complete with a 70cl bottle of ultra diners. The Bengali-owned eatery is decorated with it! No wonder it’s known as the Indian premium Tanqueray No Ten and two saffron) which lends a terrific crunch when bespoke martini glasses. Tanqueray No framed sports shirts from the teams they have sponsored over the years bitten into. Ten Gift Set (£55, Selfridges nationwide) These crunchy patties are then served in a pleasure is often just as much in the textural onion, but you could use whatever you fancy, Put a shine on: Shoe designer Tim Little and letters from grateful pupils who have eaten there on organised trips roll with two different chutneys or sauces. contrast as in the flavour. from an artisan roll to a plain old burger bun has linked up with Speyside star Chivas One is a rich, spicy coconut and peanut The Japanese have their tonkatsu pork (we from the value shelf. Regal to create a luxury gift tin from local schools. covered this earlier this year), and the Americans If anything, the cheaper rolls are probably the Other recipients of the owners’ paste, and the other a cooling minty showcasing the elements of the classic yoghurt. have the Po’Boy, traditionally a roll filled with most authentic, given this is street grub from the brogue shoe. One of the best-selling generosity include the Slaithwaite crispy deep-fried oysters but now just referring subcontinent, but it’s up to you. Philharmonic Orchestra and the Combine all this and you have a full-on Scotches in the world, Chivas Regal flavour explosion across the palate. The to anything deep-fried and shoved in a bun. For Yo u can always serve these terrific fritters ’Made for Gentleman’ Luxury Gift Tin Moonraker Festival. this recipe, any good bread roll will do. without the bread as part of a fancier dinner, but A while ago some of the staff The bill roll is important here, as it’s the (£25.39, 70cl, Sainsbury’s) offers whisky combination of the crunchy with the soft I decided to go one further and make some soft it’s nice to try the full snack experience for once. noses the chance to enjoy the rich trekked up the road to Scapegoat caramelised onion rolls with a basic white bread Pop the Third Test on, and get frying! Aprons Hill Junior and Infant School to that makes these sandwiches so enjoyable. honeyed taste and lingering butterscotch The Monsoon Tandoori Think of our own fish-finger butty; the recipe, laced with strands of deeply-coloured on! notes of its 12-year-old whisky while show the youngsters how to make a mulling over the craftsmanship of a quality chicken bhuna. Restaurant Yo u’re assured of a warm welcome Stephen Jackson’s Vada Pav pair of brogues. ■ WARM HEART OF THE VILLAGE: Comfortable dining and great food is On the US trail: Named after the crossing and friendly service, and on a cold 2 Britannia Road, Slaithwaite, HD7 wet night in Slawit, the Monsoon is the simple strength of the Monsoon Tandoori Restaurant in Slaithwaite where herds of buffalo passed over the 5HG For the potato vadai: chutney: To make the potato vadai, peel make a smooth, thick batter. Add a Kentucky River, Buffalo Trace Kentucky like a bright beacon. I and many 6 potatoes 130g desiccated coconut and dice the potatoes, then cook in teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda plenty of salted boiling water until Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Kentucky fellow Colne Valley residents are chicken chat (both £3.50). nicely cooked with not too much ghee – which can Tel: 01484 845818 1 green chili 6 cloves garlic and mix well. In a deep pan, heat a drawn to it like moths to a light The fish tikka was truly be a fault in some Indian restaurants. 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon vegetable oil tender, and then mash or pass few inches of oil to a medium heat. (£32.99, www.thewhiskyexchange.com or 2 tsp chili flakes (or a little less if through a mouli and allow to cool. bulb. delicious. It was succulent, The tarka dhal (lentils) was up to its usual Website: 1 tbsp ginger, minced or grated Dip the chilled vadai in the batter 020 7403 8688) is aged for a minimum of A handful fresh coriander you’re squeamish) Chop the chilis, garlic and ginger to coat well, shake the excess nine years. Made from corn grain, wheat, The interior is painted with lightly lightly cooked and delicately spiced. excellent standard, the smoky taste coming www.monsoontandoori.co.uk 2 tbsps salted peanuts to a rough paste. Add the chili coloured walls with deep red carpet and seats. ½ tbsp vegetable oil loose and deep-fry until they rye and barley, it’s sweet and fruity with a The portion wasn’t large, it was just enough to hit through. We never fail to order – or enjoy – this 1 tsp mustard seeds A little lemon juice mixture to the mash, and add become golden and crispy. long spicy finish and vanilla notes. At weekends the place is usually busy and when the tastebuds and make them crave more. dish. Opening hours: Monday Maldon salt plenty of freshly-chopped coriander. the downstairs gets packed, diners spill over into 3 curry leaves, finely chopped The turmeric will become Packaged in a wooden box portraying its Sally (mother of Nugget the horse) said she would And the vegetable curry was tasty with plenty of to Thursday: 5.30pm to ½ tsp turmeric Extras: In a small pan, heat the vegetable alarmingly red, but persevere! It the upstairs section of the restaurant. oil and add the mustard seeds. 220-year history and eight-step crafting definitely order that again next time and we onions. 11.30pm, Fri and Sat: 5.30 to ½ tsp cumin Soft bread rolls helps form an amazing crispy process, the traditional Julep cup holds There’s often quite a few families in early on as agreed we would too. All this was washed down with plenty draft ½ tsp ground coriander Peeled cucumber slices When they start to pop, add the coating. Keep the cooked vadai the natives of the Colne Valley introduce their The other revelation was the chicken chat, a sort Kingfisher and Cobra at prices which meant that midnight, Sun: 4.30pm to 75g chickpea (gram) flour Oil for frying curry leaves, the dried spices and warm until you have used all the plenty of promise for bourbon fans. remove from the heat. offspring to the exotic delicacies of the Indian sub Cayenne pepper Method: mixture. Forever blowing bubbles: One of the few of minced chicken on a pancake. This had a we ended up just about within the measly budget. 11.30pm Mix straight into the potato continent in a friendly environment. A pinch of bicarbonate of soda For the green chutney, stir the remaining family-owned champagne surprising depth of flavour for such a simple Needless to say, we had ordered far too much. Just mixture, and adjust the seasoning if To serve, halve the rolls, toast So what about the food? Well, to be honest, it is Children: Welcome A pinch of Maldon salt ingredients together until combined, lightly, and spread a little of the houses on the global stage, Taittinger’s starter. Another one to remember for the future. before we waddled off into the dark night, I and check for seasoning. Chill until necessary. chalk cellars in Reims are home to some nothing fancy or clever, it’s just honest dishes at For mains we ordered the prawn rogan josh glanced at the wall near our table. On it was a For the green chutney: required. Divide the potato mixture into coconut chutney on the bottom reasonable prices. flavoured with onions and tomatoes, sizzling framed letter from a child in Class 2 at Helme Disabled: Yes 120ml plain yoghurt To prepare the coconut chutney, eight portions; shape into fat half. of the finest collections of champagne. A handful fresh coriander, chopped Pop a vada on the roll, spoon a Beautifully dressed for the party season, I’m a regular here and personally I think that the chicken and spinach korahi and two vegetable side School. toast the coconut under the grill or in a rounded burger shapes, roughly monsoon’s forté is its vegetarian dishes. dishes. It said: “We had a great time in your beautiful The bill: £16.50 a head A handful fresh mint, chopped medium oven until golden and the same size as the rolls. little green chutney on top, add a the entry-level Taittinger Brut Reserve NV ½ a small onion, very finely diced few slices of crisp cucumber, and (£37.99, Waitrose) comes in a 3D But with the Examiner footing the bill, we decided The tomatoes were the strongest flavour in the restaurant and the food was the best food ever.” including drinks aromatic. Chill unwrapped in the fridge for to splash out and take a risk on some previously rogan josh. In general I have found some of the I wouldn’t quite go that far, but I like the place 1 large garlic clove, minced Toast the peanuts until at least an hour. top with the remaining half of the sparkling bubble-effect box which has 2 tsp lemon juice roll. untried dishes – and were pleasantly surprised by main courses to be a bit heavy on tomatoes in the and the people who run it, and I’ll definitely be Would you go back? I deeply-coloured. Blend all the In a separate bowl, combine the been awarded Carton of the Year at the 1 tsp unrefined golden caster sugar ingredients together to form a thick gram flour, a pinch each of turmeric Eat immediately, preferably with annual Pro Carton/ECMA Awards for its a couple of them. past. back soon. do, regularly A pinch of Maldon salt paste, adjusting consistency with a and chili powder and a little salt. a nice chilled Indian beer. instant appeal. After poppadoms the three of us ordered the fish The korahi (£7.95) was a well balanced blend of VERDICT: A decent local Indian with friendly staff. For the garlic coconut little oil or lemon juice if necessary. Add enough water, gradually, to tikka (£3.95), tandoori chicken on the bone and lean chicken pieces and aromatic spinach. It was Every village should have one.