Quinoa Producers and Quinoa Exports: Implications for Local Consumption in the Southern Highlands
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Academic year 2013-2014 Quinoa producers and quinoa exports: implications for local consumption in the Southern highlands Agüero García, Aileen Milagros Promoter: dr. Alberto Arce Co-promoter: dr. Pablo Laguna Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the joint academic degree of International Master of Science in Rural Development from Ghent University (Belgium), Agrocampus Ouest (France), Humboldt University of Berlin (Germany), Slovak University of Agriculture in Nitra (Slovakia) and University of Pisa (Italy) in collaboration with Wageningen University (The Netherlands), This thesis was elaborated and defended at Wageningen University within the framework of the European Erasmus Mundus Programme “Erasmus Mundus International Master of Science in Rural Development" (Course N° 2010-0114 – R 04-018/001) Deze pagina is niet beschikbaar omdat ze persoonsgegevens bevat. Universiteitsbibliotheek Gent, 2021. This page is not available because it contains personal information. Ghent Universit , Librar , 2021. Acknowledgments With an Economics background, it was not that easy to decide to carry out a research of this type. That is why, first of all, I would like to thank my IMRD local coordinators, Jan Schakel and Dirk Roep, who encouraged me in my idea of taking this thesis as an opportunity to learn to work with different methods. Besides, several people helped me throughout this process. To begin with, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to the quinoa producers I met in Puno, as well as their families, for their friendliness, openness and trust in me. My fieldwork was not only about data collection; I also made very good friends and got to know more about the reality of rural Puno. Moreover, I owe sincere and earnest thankfulness to my promoter, Alberto Arce, for such a variety of literature he provided me and for motivating me to think in broader terms; his insights and comments have been very useful. Heartfelt thanks as well to my co-promoter, Pablo Laguna, who helped me from the very beginning despite being far away, at every single stage of my research; he contacted me with specialists in Puno to be able to meet quinoa producers, and with Claudia Urdanivia, a great anthropologist and friend who gave me both emotional and academic support. In Puno, very special thanks to Jose Luis Soto and Alipio Canahua. They were the very first engineers that I met and their help is very much appreciated. Through them I contacted many other people that introduced me to quinoa producers. Among them are Candy Condori, Mario Miranda, Sandra Frisancho and Elmer Ventura; I am very grateful to all of them. In addition, my days in Puno were so enjoyable thanks to very close friends such as Monica Adams, Martha Lopez, Soledad Paredes and Claire-Isabelle Rousseau. At the IEP in Lima, Martin Cavero, a great friend and colleague, provided me with the latest information about debates on quinoa. Edgar Ventura, a very talented colleague, also helped me a lot. Big thanks to both of them. I also want to take this opportunity to show my gratitude to the European Commission for the Erasmus Mundus scholarship I was awarded. Without this opportunity, I would not have been able to do the International Master of Science in Rural Development. Finally, I am truly thankful to my parents and Carlos Colonia, who have continuously supported me during these two years; and to Antonio and his unconditional love, that have been with me everywhere this master program has taken me. Aileen Milagros Agüero García Wageningen, August 2014 iii Abstract Quinoa, an Andean crop with very high-quality and higher protein contents as compared to cereals and with an important role to eradicate world hunger, malnutrition and poverty, is nowadays a very popular “superfood” whose international commercialisation has raised issues regarding the impacts for local rural populations in terms of diets, nutrition and the environment in quinoa-producing areas (the Andes, in South America). In this sense, this exploratory research, considering an actor-oriented approach, looks into the different elements besides quinoa commodification that influence diets and practices in households of three quinoa-producing districts in Puno, Peru, paying special attention to households’ quinoa consumption. Findings show that households’ life-cycle contingencies and modernity and modernisation initiatives determine food consumption in general and quinoa consumption in particular. Specific globalisation and globalisation from below processes add factors to take into account when studying food consumption. Finally, diets in this context have been re-organised and households are combining traditional food items and ways of cooking with more modern ones. iv Index Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 1 1. Methodology ............................................................................................................................. 4 1.1. Problem statement ............................................................................................................ 4 1.2. Objective and research questions ..................................................................................... 6 1.3. Context of the study area .................................................................................................. 7 1.4. Methods and fieldwork details ......................................................................................... 9 1.5. Limitations ....................................................................................................................... 15 2. The ‘Andean diet’? Factors influencing the diet, food practices and quinoa consumption in Peru and Bolivia ............................................................................................................................... 18 2.1. Factors influencing the diet in the Andes ....................................................................... 18 2.2. Food practices and quinoa consumption in Peru ........................................................... 23 2.3. Quinoa consumption in Bolivia ....................................................................................... 26 2.4. Summary .......................................................................................................................... 29 3. Analytical framework .............................................................................................................. 30 4. Social aspects of food consumption in Acora, Cabana and Cabanilla ................................... 35 4.1. General living conditions ................................................................................................. 35 4.2 Agricultural practices, land management and land use ................................................. 39 4.3 Food production and food purchases patterns .............................................................. 48 4.3.1 Acora ........................................................................................................................ 49 4.3.2 Cabana ..................................................................................................................... 51 4.3.3 Cabanilla ................................................................................................................... 51 4.4 Food habits ...................................................................................................................... 52 4.5 The kitchen: characteristics and interactions ................................................................. 61 4.6 Influencing factors: summary and additional factors .................................................... 64 5. Quinoa production, commercialisation and consumption in Acora, Cabana and Cabanilla 68 5.1. Quinoa production in each district ................................................................................. 69 5.1.1. Acora ........................................................................................................................ 69 5.1.2. Cabana ..................................................................................................................... 70 5.1.3. Cabanilla ................................................................................................................... 72 5.2. Harvest and post-harvest activities of quinoa and required tasks to consume it ........ 74 5.3. Quinoa varieties and their characteristics ...................................................................... 79 5.4. Quinoa preparations ....................................................................................................... 84 5.5. Quinoa commercialisation and consumption ................................................................ 86 5.5.1. Acora ........................................................................................................................ 88 5.5.2. Cabana ..................................................................................................................... 93 5.5.3. Cabanilla ................................................................................................................... 96 5.6. Quinoa consumption in special occasions ...................................................................... 99 5.7. Quinoa taste and effects on the body .......................................................................... 100 5.8.