Communal Communal Succesful experiences

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Succesful experiences

Communal

RURALTOURISMPERU < < < General Editing Cecilia Raffo, Walter H. Wust Managing Editing Gabriel Herrera / Wust Ediciones Texts and research Rafo León Photographic editing Walter H. Wust Photographs PromPerú, Roberto Fantozzi, Walter H. Wust Layout Cinthia Carranza / Wust Ediciones Translation Alejandra Llosa P. / Wust Ediciones Maps Grupo Geographos Editing assitance Nelly de Robles, Jorge Mendoza, Jhonny Parihuamán Pre-press and printing Cimagraf

Legal Deposit made in the National Library of Peru N° 2008-01001

All rights reserved under the terms of legislative decree D.L. 882, the author’s copyright.

Presentation

ew tendencies are beginning to emerge in today’s world, in which a new N type of traveler has appeared; a traveler in search of a different experience, less massive, and with better contact with rural societies. For those communities that have started taking some initiatives in order to incorporate themselves into the most consolidated tourist circuits of Peru, a wonderful economic alternative of development is presented. Communal rural has the potential to become one of the most efficient mediums through which to improve the quality of life of the most excluded towns in Peru.

However, in order to allow our communities to offer a competitive and innovative product with direct participation, there are still great challenges to be confronted for which strategic planning has to be a priority. Thus, we propose a sustainable model which not only responds to demand, but at the same time maintains the traditional culture of the Andean communities and peoples of Peru, based on a close relationship between culture and nature.

This is the biggest challenge for us in the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism. To summon all the actors involved to work together, strengthen and consolidate communal projects, and position Peru in the international scene as one of the most interesting destinations worldwide where to live an experience of communal rural tourism.

Mercedes Aráoz Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism Preface

he wealth and cultural diversity of Peru is based on the history, tradition, and T the present of its communities. They occupy a great portion of our national territory and in these times they constitute an invaluable complement to our tourism offer. For those visitors interested in getting acquainted and interacting with other cultures, visiting the rural communities becomes the main motive for their trip. Within this same search, the possibility to get closer to the artistic work of artisans represents a crucial factor during their stay in our country. 91% of travelers who visited Peru bought handicrafts, and found that the visits to local markets were an interesting highlight of their trip.

Despite this great potential, 80% of the participation of tourists in activities that involve communities takes places solely on the southern area of Peru. This is why PromPerú works on the development of diverse activities directed towards the cultural tourist market, with the aim of promoting and strengthening tourism initiatives set forward by rural communities. This will allow them to be decentralized and to redistribute their economic revenues from tourism through every region.

In addition to the exotic image that motivates many to visit Peru lies the challenge of being at the same time, a referent of responsibility in the conservation of our natural and cultural heritage. The living communities play a decisive role in this. We must keep in mind that this responsibility is not solely based in preserving a culture for it to be observed, but rather in promoting and encouraging its inclusion and participation in the globalization process, rendering tourism a complementary source of income, as well as a conservation tool for its history and environment.

The Commission for the Promotion of Exports and Tourism of Peru delivers this guide to the public with special satisfaction, as a token of its commitment to spread our cultural expressions and our interest to contribute with the sustainable development of the communities.

Commission for the Promotion of Exports and Tourism • PromPerú

Introduction

o make a selection of the most successful communal rural ventures in T Peru to present them in this guide has not been an easy endeavor. For our criteria of selection we have taken into consideration diverse components.

First of all, we have prioritized the initiatives that bring more benefits to the communities. Thus, of particular value are those that promote agrotourism and the home-stays managed by local inhabitants, which allow the visitor to have a first hand experience of the local cultures. This is the case of the successful tourism products offered by the communities of and those being developed around the main circuits in Cusco. Interesting and incomparable proposals that could be reproduced with similar fruition in other parts of Peru.

Another component to keep in mind is the geographical and cultural diversity found in our country. The Amazon experiences offer a privileged relationship between communities and nature, and give the traveler the chance to get close to a world rich in flora and fauna, as well as to traditional medicine. On the other hand, during the last few years there has been an emergence of valuable experiences which, taking an archaeological site as the basis, promote projects of tourism development in which the local communities participate with projects of inclusive business that incorporate the rural societies, while advancing their handicrafts or their agriculture, and turning tourism into an instrument of development that benefits the whole community.

This set of successful experiences of communal rural tourism, not only reflects Peru’s potential, but it is just the beginning of a long journey through the enormous possibilities of our amazing country.

The editors

Content

>>> Southern LAKE TITICACA, PUNO Taquile 22 Llachón 26 Anapia 30 34 Uros Khantati 38 Ccotos 42 CUSCO Raqchi 48 Pacha-Paqareq 52 Chinchero 56 Chahuaytire-Park of the potato 60 Willoc-Patacancha 64 AREQUIPA Sibayo 70 >>> Coast Mangroves of Tumbes 76 Túcume, Lambayeque 80 Chaparrí, Lambayeque 84 >>> Northeast María-, Amazonas 90 Porcón Farm, 94 Encañada and Sulluscocha, Cajamarca 98 >>> Central Andes Inka Naani, Áncash 104 Llamatrek 108 Vicos 112 >>> Amazon Matsiguenka House, Manu 118 Posada Amazonas, Tambopata 122 On the way to El Dorado, Loreto 126

ECUADOR

Tumbes 11 Iquitos

Talara 21 Nauta

Paita Piura Jaén Bagua Moyobamba Chachapoyas Tarapoto Lambayeque 12 14 13 Chiclayo 15 16 Celendín Cajamarca BRASIL Trujillo

Chimbote Tingo María Huari Huaraz 17 18 Huánuco Cerro de Pasco Oxapampa PACIFIC OCEAN Iñapari La Oroya Jauja Lima 19 Huancayo Huancavelica 20 1 10 Taquile Ayacucho 9 2 8 Llachón Pisco Abancay 7 3 Anapia Andahuaylas Cusco 4 Ica 5 Uros Khantati 6 6 Raqchi Nasca 7 Pacha-Paqareq 8 Chincheros 9 Chahuaytire-Park of the potato 5 2 4 10 Willoc-Patacancha Puno 1 11 Mangroves of Tumbes Arequipa 3 12 Túcume 13 Chaparrí 14 María, Kuélap Moquegua 15 Porcon Farm Ilo 16 Encañada and Sulluscocha Tacna 17 Konchucos Tambo 18 Inka Naani 19 Casa Matsiguenka 20 Posada Amazonas CHILE 21 Rumbo al Dorado

International border Departamental border Capital of the country Regional capital Province capital Paved road Unpaved road

0 1 0 0 20 0 K m

Puno and Lake Titicaca

The Puno region extends over the elevated Collao plateau and descends through the east to the Amazon forests that we share with Bolivia. It is extremely rich; in landscapes, in archaeological testimonies, in expressions of its living culture. Its history is about the evolution of ethnic groups in constant conflict and about ancient cultures spread across territories too harsh to live in.

20 travelers with the opportunity to witness the existing diversity on the Peruvian Peruvian the on diversity existing travels. their the during corridor Andean Southern witness to provide to opportunity order the in Cusco, with of south travelers the to located those with manner peculiar a in combined been have projects These found. be can Llachon and Uros Amantani, both in based tourism, the and island on land. It is there were the of ventures Taquile, of experienced- and to rural corner opened have in Puno of communities every a number world, the from travelers to mean cultures living that value the of Conscious have theopportunitytoshare theirwaysoflifeandseesplendidtextiles. and communities, ancient with contact into come visitors areas these In Suasi. and city of Puno, the cities by the lake and the Peruvian islands of Uros, Taquile, Amantani the circuitincludes tourist traditional The Bolivia. to way the on point passing as and At present, Puno is a centre much appreciated by tourism both as a destination in itself, and thatnowadays,isintheprocess ofbeingrecovered. contaminated have carelessness Titicaca and the time that is area protected peninsula, a Capachica Reserve, the National towards and Puno, of port the to Close throughserved differenthumans. have for that sustenance habitats, as diverse times have always meant a source of life for humans, as when the day gets warmer, it creates T To of humanity. The importance of the lake in Andean culture is immense: its waters patrimonies natural important most the of one doubt without is Titicaca Lake he PUNO Protected area Railway Unpaved road Paved road Port Airport, Town Distrital capital Regional capital Regional border border International Juliaca NATIONAL RESERVE TITICACA Capachica 5 NATIONAL RESERVE TITICACA 5 4 3 2 1 Uros Khantati Amantaní Taquile Anapia Llachón 1 0 10 20 Km Huancané 4 Soto Island Amantani Island Suasi Island Ilave 3 Lake Lake Titicaca Juli Moho

Yunguyo

U R E P

Bay A I V I L O B Sun Island Yunguyo Island Moon Huiñaymarca Lake 2 Guaqui Tiwanaku To 21 Southern Andes Andes Puno and lake Titicaca

Taquile

The island of Taquile is the crib of experienced-based . The project provides a good synthesis between nature, history and living culture. Framed by the wonderful scenery of the Titicaca Lake, the island exhibits terraces, and pre-Incan ceremonial sites. One of its major attractions is its traditional textiles, which in 2005 UNESCO categorized as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

22 rescuing the roots of the original project. An element that has been decisive areto island return the to from people present, however,conflicts; from at free not wasprocess of small restaurants and handicraft stores. There were many changes in Taquile, yet the individual character. The lodging houses were singled out and there was a proliferation towngrow,madethe promotedand changesmanagement,in whichacquired more a whichunleashed was tourismintensive an decade, 1980 the of end the By houses. homogenousmanner, particularly-regarding conservationstonetheoftownold the of traditionsa generalseriesofcontributedwellbeing,in maintainthis offrameaand to werewhich is still open, was established. but The community managed all homethe activities within a each in offered were managedcollectively. communitariansamethishandicrafts mealsUnder principle thestore, and lodging and community, the of mid-80s, tourism was controlled by the islanders. The boats belonged to the members the Taquile,until community-basedinventureup tourismthe of beginning the Since fishing justforself-consumption. a precarious activity, been due to the scarcity always of lands and the has inaccessibility of markets, and agriculture as situation, economic their improve to opportunity the have and culture traditional Taquileof people privileged the a For meant textiles. has their tourism see their to chance from learn inhabitants, the spending with of days idea some the by attracted island the reached who tourists non-traditional to individual opening entities, began religious community of the organizations, efforts non-governmental the and of promoters result a as and little, by Little world. exterior the with contact to closed community Taquilea decade, was 1970 the Until P: 01-994144573 P: 01-994144572 EMCOMTUR Communal CompanyofTourism ofTaquile INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION the port in the Major Lake. The Island of Taquile is located in the province of Puno, in the district of Amantani,HOW TOGETTHERE 35 km from T of the same name; they are of quechua descent, nailed in a mostly aimara region. aquile is an island in Lake Titicaca and its inhabitants integrate the rural community

handicrafts kayak, boats, cuisine, nature, hikes, archaeology, 3.810-3.950 masl province ofPuno 23 Southern Andes TRADITIONAL TEXTILES FROM TAQUILE In the Quechua and Aimara cultures, weaving is an essential cultural element. Woven textiles are used to transport seeds and food, keep warm or to carry babies. In social relations, textiles constitute both a gift and a marker of social status. Anthropology has determined how the human and divine worlds are woven in the pieces. The textile tradition “writes” rituals, and ceremonies. The Taquileño textile art is characterized by the combination of very flashy colors, with black predominating in skirts and pants. The typical pieces of the island are the girdles, or chumpis, and the hats, which indicate the civil status of who wears them. There are those who say that it is in the embroidery where the family story of the weavers is registered. In 2005, UNESCO gave the Taquileño traditional textiles the category of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

these beginnings, is the categorization of traditional taquileño textiles as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.

Currently, there are multiple possibilities to visit the island and these depend on time, interest and the budget of the traveler. Most tourists do a short trip, which is part of a circuit that includes other islands such as Amantani and Uros. Yet, an important number chooses to spend one or two nights in some family accommodation, which is still a pleasant experience.

The traditional visit still subsists in which the visitor goes directly to the town center in the Chuño Pampa sector, going through preincan sites, within the most spectacular scenery. Just recently, two sectors of the community named Huayllano and Collino, have developed a different product, which begins with a welcome during which delicious dishes of local cuisine are served in a buffet where the trout, the potatoes, the quinoa, the ocas, among other local products, are displayed.

24 ics n h vs mp f traditional of map Andes. textile makingofthesouthern unique vast the truly in pieces acquiring the as of well as possibility phases, its textiles all during traditional with the is acquaintance day next the for theme big The awaits them. interesting conversation ins before sleep, the warmth of wherea good bed and an always houses family are the travelers in the welcomed dinner, light a After midst of a silence that calls for hypnotic meditation. a message about the value of nature in the bring which before, seen never images with traveler the provides lake the on sunset The Pachamama. the important of offering significance for quechua religiousness to an make There they sites. archaeological diverse stop at a well makes by and villagers, guided informed continues, visit The TAQUILE.pdf * www.pnud.org.pe/Pdfs/PUB_Caso_ which is their main social capital”. progressive loss of their culture, This same influx could signify the 87% of visitors were foreigners. Between the years 1991 and 1992, become their main source of income. management of this activity that has of the islander is the proper cultures, and the main preoccupation is resistant to the influence of foreign are rocky slopes. At present, Taquile counts with 12km2, most of which sorts of activities and that barely business character needed for these the case of Taquile, which lacks the any tourist center, and particularly in for the organizational capacities of breadth presents great challenges population. A situation of such tourists per year, 25 times its now receives about 50 thousand the two thousand inhabitants, “The community, which reaches THE GREAT CHALLENGE* 25 Southern Andes Puno and Lake Titicaca

Llachón

A great cultural venture that could serve as a model, is located in the Quechua community of Llachon, to the north of Puno on the Capachica peninsula. Here, villagers welcome the travelers with their traditions and warmth; also they have the opportunity to navigate through the sacred lake thanks to the Titikayak project, put into place in association with a private company. Llachon has much to offer, and also, to teach.

26 INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION departing from the port of Puno the journey lasts for 3 to 4 hours. Llachon can be reached by land from Juliaca, through a route that takes 2 to 3 hours.HOW TO GETBy THERE boat, V Federation ofRuralTourism ofLlachón Llachon, composed by the first families that were willing to turn part of their houses their of part turn to willing were that of families Tourismfirst the by of composed Llachon, Promotion the for Association the create to managed Valentin little, by Little operators, transition. difficult of a villagers the participation to seemed the entities, state with and promoters, system larger a with interrelate that services tourist offering of idea the therefore, market; the on than rather nature of cycles the on based labor of culture a created traditions fishing and agricultural The families. 280 to belong who commoners 1.330 groups it and community ample an is Llachon the environment. its ancient activities such as agriculture and fishing, in a harmonious relationship with kept has it that architecture,and traditional its maintain to able been has community the that value, main as add to important is It sun. the of position the and day the of has endowed Llachon with idea, indescribable landscapes that vary that depending on the of time favor in Nature, learning. mutual of relation a in community, his within time spending in interested specifically travelers attracted that circuit new a create to time was it that decided he Then, TaquileAmantani. to and way their on travelers with packed boats the watching to used Valentin ago, decade their a in Almost impact economy. positive a having influx Llachon this without by, of go inhabitants tourists the the see to initiatives, used communal similar with happened has it As beginning, but that now constitutes the main source of income for all thethe localcreator families.and leader of an idea that was not easily understood by the community in its Valentintourismthatdevelopsthattruthisbeensuccessfully the has land. But his on modestynarratingwhenprojecthistory theexperienced-basedtheruralandofof alentinQuispe, villagerLlachon, of personality.does likecultnottheto prefersHe

observation, kayak gastronomy, nature, fauna culture, archaeology, 3.810 masl district of Capachica, Puno

27 Southern Andes into lodging. This meant investing money in the construction of rooms and toilets, as well as buying furniture and utensils. It also implied learning a totally new and unknown know-how. In favor of this was the spirit of the , very proactive and at the same time, cordial with visitors.

In Llachon there are more than fifty beds available distributed throughout the houses of the families who belong to the association. The rooms are a delicacy: warm, simple, reed curtains, and blankets woven by the villagers. Every room has a view of the lake and we recommend approaching it during dusk and dawn. The natural landscape is enriched with the view of the mountains filled with preincan terraces and of the eucalyptus forests that surround the community. This is the scenery where the men and women of the community live; in which they cultivate, fish, weave, and perform their domestic duties. From there they go out and then return after running their errands in Juliaca or Puno. And from there, they see with satisfaction the arrival of the boats or trucks that bring the travelers who do not just pass by anymore.

Valentin is clear about the future, and it is very good to discuss with him, in his own house, while the traveler also has the chance to meet his wife Lucila, and his children, Carolina and Raul. In the opinion of Quispe, shared by the whole community, the essence of the venture lies on the value of tradition, and at the moment they are undergoing this process, while they confront the impacts of success. Therefore, the community has decided not to sell their land, as the images of cement hotels that neighboring their stone houses, is incomprehensible for them. The quality of the project and the leadership of Valentin have been the reason why a series of cooperation entities have supported it; for example, to build the highway that departs from Juliaca, or for training and internships. Not long ago, Mincetur –

28 T peace, all while paddling. absolute most the feel and airpurest descendat different sports, breathe Chifron),the observe the and terraces and the Escallani cordilleras, (especially shoresofbeaches full ofreed marshes even days, and they allow to border the it.Theexcursions canlastfor hours or environmentally completelyfriendly a wassport it thatlegitimized fact theYet communitythe accepted initiative. this before time some took it first, at that guiding. in Valentin and use its tellsin villagers young trained and vessels the provided company The before. population local the by before seen kayaks,something that had never been offersoutings to navigate on the lake in Llachon company, tourism adventure prestigious and old anExplorandes, association with In sports.adventure an experience of an of cultural project with name the provides catchy which activityincluded the is This iti k a y a k to give its first fruits. fruits. first its give to beginning is Llachon of sprout the that doubt no is There signposts. and lights the includes public spaces, that public of implementation project larger part a as of communities, the of systems sewage and water the the improve of to area majors the with agreement an subscribed – Plan Copesco the through 29 Southern Andes Puno and Lake Titicaca

Anapia

This archipelago is also called Wiñaymarca, which means a location that is always young. This group of islands is located on the minor Titicaca Lake, next to the invisible border with Bolivia. Anapia consists of five islands: Yuspique, Ccaño, Ccana, Anapia and Patahuata. The communities that own the archipielago are Ccaca and Suana. The population of about two hundred families works on agriculture, cattle breeding and fishing. Anapia offers travelers from around the world an extraordinary experience of experienced-based tourism.

30 accompany servings offresh trout andocas. then which archipelago, the in producedare tubers of variety great a as potatoes, of mostly consist and simple are meals The night. of cold the forgetabout to one allow that blankets warm by covered are beds the and warm are rooms The homes. their to toilet a and room a added have villagers The locals. the of life the sharing in lies projectthe of essence have the hotels: or lodges Thereareno travelers. thirty for capacity they and homes, their in provided are meals and accommodation Anapia, In serene, calmandcordial. inhabitant; the of spirit the in all, of most noted, be can community the of conditions living the improving of terms in venture, the of results The meals. and trip boat sail transport, services, accommodation diverse provide present at who families 58 by Tourismcomprised Sustainable (ADETURS), of Development the for Association the createdShe Pauca. Eliana named tourism in specialized lady young a of impetus the The origin of the Anapia cultural project goes back to the year 1998, when as a result of fields. the in or houses their of improvement the in inhabitants the with collaborate to island the settle in who people Young tourism. and experience, volunteering social cultural between unique in a somewhere with themselves enrich who students of groups by life how about informed is the visited island Often, and challenges. poverty well amongst in the occurs highlands, and respectful are travelers These scenery. natural INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Punta of port Hermosa the where to a boat then,of the community Yunguyo and awaits. of town the to get must one Anapia to arriveTo HOW TOGETTHERE T P: (051) 951039624 ADETURS Association forSustainableTourism he Anapia Project has been welcoming travelers from all around the world, world, the around privileged a of context the in all cultures ancient from discovering in interested are who travelers welcoming been has Project Anapia he

observation, sail boats gastronomy, nature, fauna culture, archaeology, 3.800 masl province ofYunguyo, Puno 31 Southern Andes The visitor arrives to the island of Yuspique and is taken to the heights to see the vicuñas of the community. At the beginning of the project these camelids added to a couple of tens, but nowadays there are hundreds. The traveler is then guided to a lookout that during preincan times served to observe the stars and make decisions pertaining of agricultural activities. Close are the chullpas (stone tombs) which belong to the Pukina culture. In this sector of Yuspique one can also appreciate rotary crops of potatoes, lima beans, and barley, which were conceived as a source of nourishment for the population that instead of impoverishing the land, maintains it alive and fertile.

On the way back to the port, the women welcome the traveler with a surprise filled with color and flavor: under the shade that protects heads from the intense solar radiation, a table is laid with the results of a wonderful huatia, a sort of Andean pachamanca made only with potatoes and lima beans. The local villagers of Anapia generously accompany this colorful and tasty huatia with some delicious fresh silversides (Odontesthes

QUECHUAS AND AIMARAS The provinces of the region of Puno where aimara is spoken are: the old Huancane; Moho, which used to be part of the former; and Chucuito, whose capital is Yunguyo, and that includes Juli, one of the main centers of Aimara culture in all the high plains. Moreover, it is estimated that 50% of the inhabitants of the Puno region speak that language.

Traditionally, the north of Puno has been associated with the Quechua culture, and the south with the aimara. The Quechua provinces of Puno are Sandia, Carabaya, Melgar, Azángaro, Lampa and San Roman. The archipelago of Anapia is fully nailed in the Aimara nation.

32 visions ofthelocalsforfuture. the and border a to next live to means it what life, of aspects daily the as such aside, leaves often tourism traditional that aspects with acquainted become to this In chance the have they ideas of flows. exchange dialogue and together get locals and travelers is both were It here donations. visitors the of result a as created library a has community the in the population of Anapia. For example, many occurred have tourism phenomenon interesting with interaction the In afternoon. the of colors intense the with colored mountains snow-caped its with cordillera, Royal impressive the glows borders remote which in lake, clear and wide the into out go then and islands the day. between circulate every that canals fishing the into go going to includes tour use The villagers local the that vessels the are boats sail The gives thecuetogosailingbeforeadvances. theafternoon villager local some until reunion, the distends humor good The world. the and Peru of locations other in happening things other about learn to avid always are they part ). regia This lunch is a great occasion to talk with the hosts about their project: on their 33 Southern Andes Puno and Lake Titicaca

Amantani

The largest island that Peru possesses in Lake Titicaca it also has the best conditions for agriculture, as well as for other activities such as stone handicrafts, agroforestry, weaving, and trading of alpaca fur. Towards 1970, tourism emerged as an expectation, and the following years worked in favor. Today, in Amantani a very prestigious project of rural and experienced-based tourism flourishes which charms visitors and improves the local economy.

34 some yatiri,whichishowthe shamansare knowninaimara. with contact make to chance the has traveler the that fact the culture;is proofthis of mount). There are also interesting archaeological sites, and definitely,(Llacastiti an intensemasl living 4.200 the reach can which elevations, land and scenery lake the as such attractions many has ordered.island and The resultscalm family a with staying bond in the management and provision of services, thanks to which the experience of the former´s successes. One of them has consisted on keeping strong the communal The tourist Project of Amantani appeared after that of Taquile, therefore, it learned from Colqui Chaqui. Pueblo, Santa Rosa, Lampayuni, Sancayuni, Occosuyo, Incatiana, Villa Orenojon and tourism: and handicrafts fishing, subsistence agriculture, to dedicated communities eight are there Amantani In crops. combined for apt habitat a creates it and mild, is climate the shores its on Furthermore, agriculture. irrigated an of development the allow that springs permanent various has It others. among tola, and muña, cantuta, the as such plants bush of presences shows it islands: other the of that than diverse INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION journey, The Puno. depeding of on city the boat, the takes about of three port hours. the from lake the via km 40 at located is Amantani HOW TO GET THERE C P: (051)367231 Municipality ofAmantani Located at 3.817 masl, Amantani has an extension of 9 km 9 of extension an has Amantani masl, 3.817 at Located one nightinsomefamilyhouse. and days two least at spending worth features interesting extremely has ventures. Amantani three the between differences the into deeper go to traveler the for time enough allow not does it that is tour this of disadvantage The minutes. forty about sad: rs Tqie n Aatn; aiain ewe te at w takes two last the between navigation Amantaní; and Taquile Uros, islands: onventional tourist packages often include a full day tour of three on the Titicaca handicrafts culture, archaeology, nature, 4.050 masl District ofAmantaniPuno 2 , and its nature is more is nature its and , 35 Southern Andes The population of Amantani adds up to 4.000 individuals, organized in 800 families scattered around eight communities. Tourism is a resource that is managed according to communal property, which controls the transport systems on boats and speedboats, accommodation, meals, and to an extent, the handicrafts composed by textiles (of similar qualities of those of the taquileños), carved rocks (from Llacastiti), some distillery and fur breeding. This last activity that takes as main input the alpaca is the one that continues to bring together the islanders even when they have migrated to different areas of the country.

The process of the Amantani venture is very interesting, and it emerges towards the end of the 1970 decade when the government developed programs for the promotion of handicrafts. To these, one must add the initiatives generated for the recovery of prehispanic rests, particularly the two temples located in the high areas, and which possibly correspond to the Pucara or Tiahuanaco cultures and are nowadays denominated Pachamama and Pachachata. Little by little, and with the arrival of the first groups of travelers, the communal system of accommodation and foodwas established, while at the same time the handicrafts market was established during the European high season (July-August). The traditional festivity of San Sebastian that takes place at the beginning of the year was also rescued.

The traveler’s stay in Amantani provides him with the opportunity to learn about these cultural rescues, always guided by locals who provide them with information from the depths of their own experiences. All the men from the island are bilingual, while the women speak spanish in a smaller proportion. Just as in Taquile, traditional textiles here are also a true wonder in which the diverse stages of production can be recognized. To leave with a woven piece from Amantani is a way of perpetrating the experience acquired during the trip, and the opportunity to have an expression of an ancient

36 and non-degradable wrappings. wrappings. non-degradable and batteries bottles, plastic of number the however, a great brought has of tourism arrival fertilizers; as are of used organic the that disposal; is garbage encountered recently has community the that problem A sinks, as furniture. home as or ovens mortars, used pieces utilitarian the overall and exchange, through commercialized The all are carvings rock products. other for exchange in traded is timber Indeed, scarce. is much valued in a region where timber is which eucalyptus, of presence the given agroforestry, is islands. them of Titicaca One the of frame the within Amantani activities unique of two permits nature peculiar The OTHER ACTIVITIES its naturalandculturalparticularities. by supported market global the entering is that community a of world complex the into deep go is to order it in as necessary long as for stay the extend to are recommendedis probablyit enough: not night one and days Two oca. and potatoes beans, lima quinoa, lake, the from fish fresh always rice; or spaghetti are traditional, the traveler will never have island the in offered meals The treasure. 37 Southern Andes Puno and lake Titicaca

Uros Khantati

The floating uros archipelago is one of the most traditional attractions for travelers who come to the high plains. Its ancient culture founded on an ethnic group that has been separated from the firm land, the construction system of the living surfaces and the handicrafts, are the arguments that have attracted travelers to this place for many years. New ventures are born here, to diversify the current, to preserve the ecosystem and offer a new cultural experience. Uros Khantati stands out.

38 [email protected] [email protected] P: (051)951695121 Qhantati Asociación deTurismo Vivencial Uros INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Puno. of city the of port the from km 6 about at located is archipelago uros The THERE GET TO HOW T Bolivian territory, and it was part of the great groups of the lake prior to the one one the to prior lake the of groups great the of part was it and territory, Bolivian today is occupation what in existed which Lake, migratory Uro-Uro the of margins the on first established that the after derived have could uros of name generalized The town”. “lake means which kotsuña, was group ethnic the of name original The established arelation betweentheuros andthepuquinaculture. others and continent, the of north fromthe came that wave greatmigrant the urosto also anthropological theories with different interpretations. Some link the arrival of the arethere though even America; South of occupation the of most explains which that fromcome they that reasondifferentindicate south, totally to theis history its why to seems everything and times preincan during existence to came Quechuas, the and Aimara the different to group a uros, The ago. years fifty some away passed that last the said is It uros. original the of descendants pure more no are there present, At Paraiso, Kapi,Toranipata, Chumi,Titino,Negrote andTinajero. five or ten. Currently, the occupied islands and inbetween usesomewhere are: Santacould Maria, this Tribuna, families, Tupiri, of number varying a by inhabited is island neighbors, or these are families solved by cutting the island amongst in two with a problems machete, and it is areover. thereEach small whenever that said is it sector Khantati the traveler.In the for interest great of issue an is This tourism. of demand abandoning them depending on the movements of families and on migration, and the or islands building about go locals the as islands of number fixed no reality,is there In tourists. by visited most the are Puno, of bay the around scattered islands twenty the Desaguadero River, which joins this lake with the Poopo in Bolivia. The current he uros ethnic group inhabited the floating islands of the Titicaca and the shores of

handicrafts nature, fauna observation, culture, gastronomy, 3.810 masl district of Capachica, Puno 39 Southern Andes we see today. The Incas, during the time of Pachacutec, tried to dominate these men – who are said to have black blood – but they were able to free themselves and traveled to the islands we see nowadays in the bay of Puno at the shores of the Desaguadero River. The original Uros, began mixing with Aimaras and Quechuas, even though the main influence comes from the first.

Khantati is a population group that descends from these complex mixtures and it is the vessel of cultural hybridism in which features of the original ethnic groups still remain. One of these ancient elements is the way of building their homes, totally out of reed, fit with rope to poles sunk in the depths of the Titicaca. They share with other groups of islanders the traditional mechanics to built and renovate their own islands, that it is based on the same principles upon which their homes are constructed. In this very peculiar home base, in addition to their domestic constructions the families also have community venues, grocery stores, and a school. They have solar panels that provide them with electricity. It is these same traditional and modern systems which constitute the basis of the Khantati cultural project, specifically conceived so that the traveler has the opportunity to integrate what is ancient with its requirements of comfort. The rooms for travelers are made of reed but have electricity and basic, but comfortable, furniture.

The islanders practice traditional fishing of carachi and silversides, among other species; they show the visitor how is it that with sun drying it they store the fish for hard times, according to rules of food security. The hunt of wild birds was a

URO LANGUAGE There are no more speakers of the ancient uriquilla language, the original from the uros. The topic of the origin of this language is as complex as the actual source of the ethnic group. The uruquilla seems to be related with the language of the chipayas, who inhabited the bolivian province of Carangas in Oruro. According to specialized studies, during the 1930 decade there were a hundred uruquilla speakers still living and inhabiting the shores of the Desaguadero River, one of the first settlements after the uros were displaced by the Inca threat. From 1950 onwards, the uros and their mestizo descendants began adopting the quechua and mainly, the aimara language. This as part of a process of cultural and social hybridism that continues flowing at present times, due to a great extent to the role played by tourism, as it is not surprising that the traveler might have the change to find in Uros inhabitants who speak English.

40 utilitarian purposes. for weave reedto the use men the as women, the with technique this learn and are also exported. The visitor can there sent are textiles The fauna. and flora local the illustrates and Uros, the of myths founding the narrates that iconography an by dominated is upholstery the Khantati: in topic and their embroidery are an important weaving their Both silversides. and and of course, fish: over a basis of potatoes, prepared dishes the to flavor special a gives it and stoves, mud in fuel as isused plant This for tours. and fishing rafts the and handicrafts, their houses, their islands, their build they reed is a plant sent by gods, as with it the that tell Uros of inhabitants The GREAT TRAVELLING EXPERIENCE carachi, moraya, corn uspi, trout in a narrow relationship with the life life the Lake. Titicaca the with by generated relationship narrow a in this of all races; and of cultures mixture different the in conceived about culture a learning origins, ethnic very remote of family a with island, activities reed sharing floating a on for days living some Imagine resting. ladies, the with weave to how learning beautiful landscape, a within all area, the the of tasting food fishing, and sailing going population, the with days living many Khantati, for in stay can traveler The tourism. for mainly fibers, camelid and ovine Conversely, with weave task. women male a is rafts and houses islands, the of construction The location. this in agriculture possible no activity, as there subsistence common is 41 Southern Andes Puno and lake Titicaca

Ccotos

Ccotos, a village located on the Capacchica peninsula in front of the Titicaca Lake, is an eloquent proof that rural, community or experience tourism is sustainable and integrates to local population’s life, when it is shared with other traditional productive activities, whether they be agriculture, livestock farming, handicraft or fishing. Ccotos is a destination which begins to yield surprises; the greatest of them being its landscapes.

42 P: (051)951664881 Cultural Association“IslaTikonata” P: (051)812668 [email protected] Ccotos. Craftsmen’s AssociationfortheTourism of INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION respectively.. hour 1 and 2 of navigation a with Amantani to or Puno from possible come is it route lacustrine For hours. three or Coata, two Huata, takes that Illpa, route road a in the Capachica, for Puno, or Juliaca from Ccotos to come to possible is It THERE GET TO HOW C the bustleoffishingboats. in the water, according to the hours of the day; as well as the lake flora and fauna, and shades of and sky the in light of changes the observe may visitor room,Fromthe his village. the in nights two least, at but, one only not stay to visitors encourages which Lake, Titicaca the to view a with lodgings offers community Ccotos the present, At and mankind’s horizon. respective their of cultures, ancient realitiesenvironment, the with related topics discuss community the and analyze societies; about the talk they and stories; travelers own their the work, share Besides, members agricultural humor. gastronomy, of traditions, sense the and of conversations, the with partake board and also room the they share community; only not Ccotos to come who travelers The and thenature oftheproposal offered tothevisitors. be to is hospitality authentic the for support projectsolid this a of is origin the as highlighted, This out. it carry to initiative the taken have community the up make that families the as community, the by created essentially been has project Ccotos The and islets knownasTikonata,Uki,LagartoandCayen. islands of composed place, known little a tour to point starting privileged a is expression,maximum and circuitits plateau in high appreciatingsouthern allows the of Puno, is only 2 hours away by bus. This district on the Capachica peninsula Capachica the on district This bus. by away hours 2 only is Puno, of northeast kilometers 69 at peninsula, Capachica the on located village a cotos,

gastronomy. boating, handicrafts and nature, hiking, archeology, 3.810 –3.950m.a.s.l. 43 Southern Andes Those who appreciate nature will find a great challenge in Ccotos, as it is a natural scenic viewpoint towards the golden and white Bolivian mountains, as well as towards the islands of Amantaní and Tikonata. The lake shores close to Ccotos are absolutely marvelous, such as Escallano, with their clear waters and the green framing them. Long hikes and horse treks are carried out on these coves, and there is always someone who dares to take a dip into the lake, which is very stimulating and not traumatic at all, as the temperature of these waters is rather mild.

Another great experience is riding a reef raft steered by a member of the Ccotos community, and navigating the surrounding areas, and perhaps landing on the Tikonata island (see box).

Touring the Capachica peninsula, from the lake or by walking, will reveal to the visitor the origin of its name. In Quechua, “Capachica” means “a place rich in flowers”, because of the ancient tradition of growing different species of flower plants in the small house gardens or in the vicinity of the community member’s farms, in order to make the landscape more colorful and vivid. The colors which stand out in nature are transferred to the traditional clothes of the community members, which are used in everyday life and adopt very sophisticated forms in the local festivals.

Tikonata The lake route towards the Tikonata island dazzles the visitors with the image of the Real Mountain range, the Bartolomé islet and its protected totora reefs, as we are within the Titicaca National Reserve, A community tourism project is also being developed in Tikonata, which was supported from its inception by Valentín Quispe, the leader of Llachón. The community members of this island are basically fishermen, and they navigate the lake waters with an amazing skill, specially the women. Visitors are lodged in the upper part of the island in a small circular village composed of putukos – mud constructions without structure – where beds with linen are placed over platforms warmed with woven chilihua fibers. As well as in Ccotos, here the food is delicious and very healthy: Wheat or quinoa soup, potatoes, broad beans. In this place there is a natural scenic viewpoint with an ancient ceremonial stone from the Tiahuanacu people. A series of offerings have been found here, and those objects have been kept by the community members in a special place.

44 the Virgin of Candelaria. Candelaria. Virgin of the of festival next the in participate to in dance this order rehearsing people community the find may we lucky, are we If carnival. the celebrating for TarcadaThe moon. dance is another the under dance beautiful show very a us may people community Tikonata, the in or Ccotos in evening, the In slingshot. a originally was – pompoms woolen multicolored with strip a - hands their in the carry dancers which linked wichi wichi was The war. origin to its carnival but cheerful dance, a is For nowadays, located. which, Cashua, the is there example, is lake, Ccotos the of where zone Quechua the in survive time the along purpose their varied have which dances Ancient D an CES which travelers may take home. take may travelers which souvenir extraordinary an be will plants, and birds of motifs with embroidered is worn by chucco, local women on their heads, and black-colored designs, A language. as a diverse clothes the on depicted the symbolic are which the of as meaning well the as to process travelers, weaving the explain they but clothes, woven their sell also craftsmen Ccotos’ value. cultural with loaded knowledge, new a with routines respective their resume will and weave, and dye spin, to how learn to tempted and will feel art. dyes Visitors of this beautiful fibers natural the and technology the preserving continue who ancient weavers, of territory a is this forget not We in Ccotos. must preserved well been has that activity ancient an is Weaving 45 Southern Andes Cusco

Macchu Picchu, the city of Cusco and the in Urubamba are Peru’s main tourist attractions, and certainly, of . In these spaces the desire of travelers from every corner of the planet to enter a world where history has left invaluable prints and is still alive, can be fulfilled.

46 W acquainted withthemosttraditional region oftheSouthAmerican Andes. becoming of way unique together,a all compose and own, its on world a is them of one Each equally. strangers and own its astonishes that tourism experience-based and rural of productscreated have communities diverse valleys upper and lower the in both territories, these In population. Inca living fortressand its with and cosmopolitanism, its and Urubamba market, handicraft its and Pisac weavers), its and Chinchero architecture, find can their one There through culture. living mix and their art their display today that and Indians, of Towns as Spread around the Sacred Valley are the beautiful colonial towns that were established about extremely valuable handicrafts amongwhichthetextilesstandout. and ceremonies, and cults practices, agricultural ancient about learning exchange, history,fromof Andes heart the southern throughthe families, with time spending by in life about learn to traveler the attract that ventures communal of group a find can MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY HISTORICAL Calientes Aguas To that nowadays, in addition to the archaeological and cultural attractions, one attractions, cultural and archaeological the to addition extent in nowadays, the that to attractions of offer its widened has region Cusco the time, ith Protected area Railway Unpaved road Paved road Airport Town Distrital capital Province capital Regional capital border International Huarocondo Ollantaytambo 5 6 Willoc Willoc Patacancha Anta 6 5 4 3 2 1 Urubamba CUSCO Willoc Ollantaytambo Písac-Chahuaytire Chincheros Pacha-Paqareq Raqchi Yucay 3 0 10 20 Km Chinchero Poroy Lares Patabamba 2 Calca Ccorao Andahuaylillas Písac PARK OFTHEPOTATO Lucre 4 Chahuaytire NATIONAL PARK Huaro Caicay Acomayo MANU Acopia Urcos Catcca Yanaoca Quiquijana Cusipata Checacupe Ocongate Combapata Pitumarca Tinta 1 (female tejedoras To Tinki To San Pedro San Pablo Chillca Sicuani 47 Southern Andes Andes Cusco

Raqchi

One of the most interesting projects of cultural tourism in Peru is located halfway between Cusco and Puno close to the city of Sicuani. Spending some days there allows the traveler to discover a living museum, where ancient tradition maintains its validity in different forms of cultural expressions. Pottery, music, dances, gastronomy, clothing and the magnificent Inca temple dedicated to Wiracocha are part of the experience.

48 In addition, the colcas or food warehouses, and a ceremonial ceremonial a and warehouses, food or colcas the addition, Raqchi. In surrounded that wall impressive an cuts Trail Inka Collasuyo The nobility. Inca the from bedrooms has also complex The columns. cylindrical 22 of bases the of meters 12 of see can one wall the of wall sides two the On wall. adobe an and a base rock with central height a is most the strikes What width. of 25 and length of made of masterpiece rock and architectural mud has a floorof rectangular 92 meters magnificent a of rests the This Pachayachachi. Viracocha Tici of Kon God centre cult the for by incas the built temple its as has complex archaeological Raqchi The and bedrooms built have bathrooms adjacenttothe familyhomes. they this For inhabitants. the with days some by culture, spending Quechua the of aspects authentic to close come can visitor the where museum living a in community the transform to and is Raqchi of food concept pottery,The language. attires, traditional rescue to seeks that process a to associated is project cultural The resources. traditional their to value giving when determinant sciences graduates. This characteristic, which strengthens self-confidence, has been computer or tourist teachers, either are they education: higher have raquiños Most advocated they capitalize, to them themselves toageniustourismventure thatisproducing allow importantresults. not did activity this that fact the to Due cultivate potatoes, corn, ocas, tarwi, quinoa, ullucus and wheat for self-consumption. and recently, in cultural tourism. The villagers own small parcels of land in which they masl. The community is composed by eighty families, who work in agriculture, pottery P: 084-984602153 Raqchi Asociación RaicesIncas-Turismo Vivencial INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION archaeological site are found just four kilometers away from the highway. Raqchi is located at 121 km (2h 30 min) south of Cusco, following the pavedHOW TO GETroad THERE to Puno. The T located on the right margin of the Vilcanota River and it has an altitude of 3.480 of altitude an has it and River Vilcanota the of margin right the on located Pedro,San of district the to belongs Raqchi of provincetown he is it Canchis; of handicrafts nature, popular festivities, culture, archaeology, 3.500 masl province of Canchis, Cusco usno (ceremonial (ceremonial 49 Southern Andes mound) attached to the water sources, stand out.

The cultural project was born as a need to make the flow of tourists that visited the Inca complex, have a positive effect on the community. This is the reason why the project and the archaeological visit are closely related. What is interesting is that this visit is enriched by the guidance of the local youth, who describe the Inca rests from the perspective of the local inhabitants, those who have been part of the history of the site.

At present, in Raqchi there are 40 warm rooms with ensuite bathrooms, and some of them even have hot water. The families provide meals to the visitors, which consist of traditional dishes with ingredients such as corn, potatoes, ullucus, lima beans, peas, tarwi, quinoa and wheat, all grown locally. Often Mysthic ritual at dinner other families come to visit In Raqchi the visitor has the opportunity and a small party begins, in which to be part of the offerings to the land they sing and dance to the rhythm of done by the villagers as part of their the asispayana and the cashua, an cultural and religious practices. These unforgettable experience. ceremonies take place on the usno (ceremonial mound), and are dedicated Apart from the visit to the complex, the to the Pachamama, or Mother Earth. A local villagers of Raqchi organize a very villager gifted by special powers is in alluring trek to an extinct volcano called charge of the offerings, which consist Kinsachata, one of their local apus. It is on coca leaves – the element that links here where ceramists have always found the human and divine worlds – chichi, the sand that gives their pieces unique minerals, wine, camelid fat, sweets and resistance and quality. The trek is short. other objects. These offerings to the It firsts goes past a lookout from where land – true expressions of a millenary a wonderful panoramic view of the town civilization – are experiences that allow and the temple can be enjoyed. the travelers to become integrated with the community through a ritual of In the town of Raqchi travelers have the brotherhood and harmonization with opportunity to learn about the process the elements of nature. of pottery making, and even, be part of it. The people from Raqchi have been

50 ol a ies ary f xeine o lvn wt hmn rus ht possess great resources that oflivingculturalpatrimony. groups human with living of experiences of array diverse a world the offer to is idea The FONCODES. and FIDA the by integrated is which Project, the Cusco-Puno road have been structured with the support of the South Corridor along projects of net similar a Raqchi, Since America. Latin and Peru in ventures cultural other referentfor a become has Raqchi project, the of success the Given dialogue. intercultural and encounters human generating on based is philosophy its and Roots”, Inca “Raqchi called is Project Raqchi the by liderated group The project vision of thesnake,pumaandcondor. images through above and middle the in one the below, one the worlds: three the symbolizes that iconography Inca plates with famous the and bread the keep to used made. pieces out stand are these, Among quality excellent of pieces Nowadays, many decorative and utilitarian the store to deposits famous the where here is it and times, immemorial since ceramists ae made. are chicha, , large raquis, 51 Southern Andes Cusco

Pacha-Paqareq

Since Raqchi´s take-off, threes communities located between Cusco and Puno (Patabamba, Chillca and Kharhui) decided to formulate their own projects, and with the support of the Southern Corridor (FIDA and FONCODES) gave form to their initiative. These communities are putting their projects into place with the presence of Raqchi, as they are conscious that functioning as a net is the most convenient strategy. They offers the traveler a varied array of communal experiences, each with its own attractions.

52 E: [email protected] P: (084)984819137 Patabamba Asociacion deServiciosMultiples Patabamba E: [email protected] P: (084)984807748 Chillca INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Pitumarca on the km 99 on the Cusco-Puno road. Kharhui is annexed to Sicuani. todetour thetake necessary tois Chillcait toarrive orderto Ccorao.In tolocatedclose is PatabambafrommCusco,locatedroad the30Pisac.ison1hto detourat The town the to HOW TO GET THERE T The traveler can be part of all these moments, of work, of celebration, of joy. of celebration, of work, of moments, these all of part be can traveler The instruments. percussion and wind ancient by accompanied place into come singing the and dances the end, an to come has fields the in work the Once market. the to go or community, the or home the within stay either will that products reap to order in it irrigate and it, after look it, sow land, the open farmers the – chaquitaqlla such the as – themselves by made tools farming Using food. all of provider the being for men take care of the farming tasks that begin at dawn after thanking the mother earth The product. finished the to way the all shearing the from task, female a is Weaving with which to blankets, decorate of of symbolization natural elements such as the flowers,the fish, the stars and crops, system a is pieces these in iconography The dyes. using and technology,fibers traditional quality great of textiles produce inhabitants the the Patabamba of in Furthermore, supply food the in heritage key a different constitute which lands, their in cotton even and cereals maize, coca, cultivate villagers the ago long Since masl. 3.800 of altitude an at Calca of province the in Coya, of district the in located is Patabamba enrichment. mutual of of source main the possibility as visitor the the with all, exchanging of and living most time their spending and of resources, beauty the archaeological has, and each natural that scenic, wealth cultural the promote They form tourism. different a to of invite they group a as and Kharhui, and Chillca Patabamba, of communities by the is composed network The areas. in camping and homes family he Pacha-Paqareq network of cultural tourism has been functioning since since functioning in both travelers been international and has national to lodging and meals tourism offering 2006, cultural of network Pacha-Paqareq he ayllus

(family groups) (family that dwell in this area of the Sacred Valley of the Incas. handicrafts, nature culture, archaeology, 4.500 masl.Approx Centre and south of Cusco ponchos , scarves, , scarves, chuspas or llicllas (small purses). purses). (small 53 Southern Andes Chillca is located in the district of Pitumarca in the province of Canchis in Cusco, at 4.055 masl. It is the access point to a number of snow-caped mountains above the 5.000 masl, which have become well known trails for trekkers of all around the world, especially by those who wish to take on the challenge of going around the Ausangate. The community of Chillca has organized to have people escorting the trekkers during the five days and four nights of the trek, which takes them through impressive landscapes. The treks from Chillca go through punas, pajonales and snow-caped mountains, Llamas, alpacas, vicuñas always under a sky of intense blue. Camelids are an essential part of the The abundant lakes that appear on the landscape of these communities of trek reflect these landscapes and invite the highlands; the culture associated contemplation and peace. with them is very ancient and it structures the relationships of man Kharhui is a community that belongs to and beast for its use and at the the province of Sicuani, which is enduring same time, for its conservation extreme poverty. As it usually happens in and protection. The llamas are used this context, those who have the worst as beasts of burden due to their part are the women; yet, the ventures that resistance to long journeys. Its meat have come into place in this community is also consumed. The alpacas offer have begun to change substantially the Andean inhabitant its fibers of their situation and at present, they are different colors, from black to white going to school and have earned the going through sepias and browns. right to share their opinions and vote in Its light, soft and very warm wool the assemblies. This community is part is appreciated around the world of the Ausangate route and it shares its for its quality. The vicuña, patriotic beautiful resources. symbol of Peru, is only kept in a wild state under the most strict system of protection. Its very fine tobacco colored fiber protects it from the cold weather as this animal dwells in the most elevated Andean peaks. To have the opportunity to observe these camelids and to learn about the customs of the communities for their conservation, are great attractions for the traveler.

54 the Yerupaja andtheCoropuna. Huascaran, the after Peru in altitude and thus, it is number four in terms of earth. It has an altitude of 6.394 masl, on behavior rule ordersthat and laws of set its has that god powerful most the important is most Ausangate The beings nature. and human between observe harmony the peaks over watch and their creatures their from that traditional Andean culture; mountains The THE AUSANGATE APU r te ueay os of gods tutelary the are apus f uc, the Cusco, of Apu 55 Southern Andes Cusco

Chinchero

The town of Chinchero is one of the places one must visit while traveling through the southern Andes. It dazzles visitors with its traditional mestizo architecture, and its calm and peaceful atmosphere. It is also well-known for its handicrafts market, which originally took place during certain days of the week and where exchange of products between the villagers was common. At present, with the arrival of tourism, the market is a stable event that has been enriched thanks to a project aimed to the recovery of traditional textiles.

56 www.tourrural.net [email protected] P: (084)432269 Complejo Turístico Artesanal“ApuAntasaqa” www.textilescusco.org E: [email protected] P: (084)22-811723-6880 Av. Sol603,Cusco Centro deTextiles Tradicionales delCusco INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION communicates the capital with the town of Urubamba. thatroad paved the via Cusco of northmin) (45 km 30 atlocated Chincerois of town The HOW TO GET THERE C amongst Callañaupa, Nilda proudly asserts weavers” of generation a ensure to is vision “My fibers anddyesextractedfrom plantsthatgrow wildlyinthelowerareas. old, continue weaving over the base of the same ancient technology and using natural Today,adult, own. young, its women, on these language a almost was which vision, Cosmo a conserved and synthesized textiles The wealth. and power of ornaments also and use, daily for pieces of classes social different the provided work, divided making textile of art society.The by valued most the during of one was that times pre-Hispanic labor a revitalizing are they activity this through and weaving are They task that demands the effort of their hands but also, of their memories a and in enthralled intelligence. women of groups gathers garden The tiles. with roofed mud, colored gardenample there covereda is towardsand gallery natural of built venue a end, the the Around marvel. a is director.currentsite and The founder its is Callañaupa Nilda and Chinchero of weavers of Center the of name quechuan the is Riccharichiq Awai thanks totheinitiativeofanexceptionalwomancalledNildaCallañaupa. of all, in the wonderful world of its textiles, nowadays in the process of being rescued most and attires, traditional the in inhabitants, its by spoken language the in market, its in Chinchero: of culture living the in found are most the out stand characteristics layout characteristic of Spanish linage. However, the elements where the ancient Inca – temple Christian and juxtapose without temple making synthesis, while Inca the civil architecture – displays over an power urban religious of symbols The presences. iceo a bit vr vr etnie na eteet I ti tw one town Spanish and Inca this the between In relationship cultural settlement. the appreciate Inca clearly can extensive very a over built was hinchero lliqllas,

handicrafts gastronomy, nature, culture, archaeology, 3.760 masl of Urubamba, chuspas, tpsre, lnes goe, as n scarves. and hats gloves, blankets, tapestries, chullos, 57 Southern Andes Nilda was born in Chinchero, the daughter of villagers and a villager herself. She grew up watching her mother, neighbors and aunts weave. But as time went by and tourism began making its appearance, first in small groups and later in large quantities, Nilda too started to perceive that some sort of danger was overcoming the valuable treasure of traditional textiles. Tourists were being led by prices and failing to demand quality, what consequentially derived to the standardization of the product and thus, a loss in terms of designs and original value of traditional pieces. The synthetic materials were being imposed, the pallaris (icons) underpriced, and they were weaving pieces to be immediately sold in the market.

Obsessed with rescuing the art of weaving, 28 years ago Nilda took the initiative of grouping the women that shared her message, and they practice with the elders all the stages of the complex process of textile making. With time, the initial group transformed into a solid organization destined not only to the preservation of this art but also to its commercialization. In 1996 the group took the name of Center of Textiles of Cusco and expanded its radius of action to other communities of weavers, such as Pitumarca, Chahuaytire, Sallac, Accopia, Santo Tomas, Upper Accha, Patabamba and Mahuaypampa.

Currently in Chinchero there are 38 weavers who are part of the project. Yet adding the craftsmen and craftswomen of other communities, the numbers surpassed the three hundred. When the visitor arrives to the center it finds women busy with the whole process of weaving: the spinning, the dyeing, the warp, the pattern, and the final details. One must stop to observe each of these steps, and most ofall,the moment in which the weavers apply the designs. In Chinchero textiles, more than fifty motifs have been compiled, and are displayed over a central base calledloraipo . The relation between this space and the lateral sequences of other icons expresses the links between the human and divine worlds, as well as the symbolizations of nature and even elements that identify each artist. Visiting this place will generate a transformation in the traveler, as he will understand that there is an immense ancient world that is updated daily thanks to the hands of the weavers from Chinchero.

CENTER OF TRADITIONAL TEXTILES OF CUSCO Created by Nilda Callañaupa in 1996, this entity works with a series of communities from the Sacred and Mapacho Valleys. Its main objective is to rescue traditional textiles and commercialize them in the market, while ensuring high quality standards and fair prices for the weavers. The center has a store in the city of Cusco where it is possible to purchase the textiles brought from the communities and at the same time, watch the artists work. Annexed to the stores, there is an excellent museum where it is possible to follow each stage of its complex process. One can also coordinate directly with Nilda herself, or with the personnel of the musem to organize visits to the communities with which the CTC collaborates.

58 Vilcanota cordilleras. plaza one can see the Vilcabamba and the From purposes. evangelistic and with religious themes that had didactic and certain interior walls display murals monuments in Cusco. Both the façade occurredreligioustheallwith colonial it as palace, Inca great a be to used was what foundationsof the overerected church The century. 17th of the beginning the towards finished was be which can nowadays, appreciated that of temple Christian construction the the ordered and Chinchero”of Monserrat of Lady our ViceroyToledo“doctrineof the found a series of large vaulted niches. In 1572 thefields. The wall is characteristic by space between the Spanish plaza and the dividesthat wall Incagreat a has Chinchero archaeology, of terms In LIVING TOWN 59 Southern Andes Cusco

Chahuaytire and the Park of the potato

At 45 minutes from Pisac is the community of Chahuaytire, land of weavers who have known how to keep their culture alive. It is said that when the conquistadores arrived to Cusco they were surprised to see that the natives took as much care of their textiles as they did of their gold. Indeed, the traditional cuzqueño textile is a treasure because it structures a memory that is updated in each of the fine pieces that come from those old looms.

60 W: www.andes.org.pe E: [email protected] P: (084)24-5021 Calle Ruinas451,Cusco Park ofthepotato P: (084)812418 Comunidad CampesinadeChahuytire Chahuaytire INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION The community of Chahuaytire is located at 6 km (45min) from Pisac on a paved road. HOW TO GET THERE T kiwicha, ocas, ullucus and legumes. The dining room is designed in such a way that way a such in designed is room dining The legumes. and ullucus ocas, kiwicha, before, combined with other Andean seen ingredients never forms such and as colors of cuy potatoes stews; (guinea or pig), entrees cold tarwi, picantes, served soups, quinoa, are in which potatoes, local native of base the on prepared been have buffet beautiful restaurant where they welcome travelers at noon. All the dishes in the lunch The villagers from Chahuaytire who form the so-called Park of the Potato have built a boys getinvolvedinthisactivitythat hasgreat future. that grow in the low areas. The men knit, the women weave, and at present, girls and made with sheep and alpaca fibers, dyed with natural colors extracted from the plants welcome visitors to show them their work and sell them pieces of exceptional quality, they Saturdays and Wednesdays on manner; associative an in work who members 56 has association The treasure. ancient this of preservation the to dedicated entity decade, and today they supply the Center of Traditional Textiles of Cusco, an important The Illya Ccoyo brothers have been part of an association of weavers for more than a and forittobeconsidered asintangibleheritageofthenation. generations new the in making textile traditional of art the consolidate to seek who people, enterprising and cordial very villagers, local with time spend to where also, and textiles traditional cusqueño with acquainted become to where place great a is buttons. These details that catch the attention of the traveler, tells us that Chahuaytire colorful their by distinguished be can men the while skirts, embroidered ample wear women The differentiating themselves of in way the a tourist as and attires handicraft traditional markets their whererescued have they Chahuaytire operate. from villagers he

, as well as for they knitted they for as well as ponchos, handicrafts gastronomy, nature, culture, archaeology, 2.950 masl province of Calca, Cusco decorated with beads and beads with decorated chullos 61 Southern Andes it harmonizes with the landscape. Next to it there is a small demonstrative parcel where the visitor can learn about more than 180 varieties of potatoes from the 400 that have been rescued by the Park of the Potato; it is good to ask about the natural techniques they use to deal with plagues as the local guide will have the answer with a demonstration in situ. A short outing to discover cave paintings FESTIVITIES OF THE POTATO can be the perfect occasion to digest the Two important popular festivities are succulent lunch. celebrated in February, in Chahuaytire and in the other communities that Wonderful places for those who wish to are part of the Park of the potato. The enrich their visit to the attractive town of first one is the Linderaje, when the Pisac, Chahuaytire and the Park of the communities go to the landmarks Potato are communal projects destined that demarcate the territory in order to to the rescue of culture and biodiversity. reaffirm them through offerings. The On the one hand, are the traditional journey covers through areas above textiles and on the other, the more than the 4.800 masl. The communities thousand varieties of native potatoes organize themselves in a long queue found within the area of the park. Both flanked by youths who dance a dance strategies seek to integrate tradition and called Wifala, Quechua word for joy. modernity in a proposal that aspires for This dance determines the succession sustainability, as the value of both the of positions in the community, and textiles and the tuber rest on the fact at the same time, it organizes the that they can be regenerated and grow links between the communities as it without losing its original qualities. culminates on the Chiuchillani pampa where the young ladies wait, ready to The Park of the Potato was established initiate the courtship. with the support of the ANDES Association in Cusco, and it is categorized as Area of The festivity of the Santuruma Tinkay Bicultural Heritage. It has a population of takes place the next day and it is about approximately 6.000 people in an area of an offering to the spirit of the potato. 9.000 ha, between the 3.400 and 4.900 This festivity had already been lost masl. The visit to the park is extremely but it has made a come back with rich and diverse in terms of experience. the repatriation of certain varieties; There are those who prefer to spend time the Tinkay consists in a ritual that learning about the species that have been culminates with an offering done in rescued, traditional technology and in the the area of the germoplasm where the observation of flora and fauna. Others adaptation of the species that have chose to trek the ancient prehispanic returned takes place. paths guided by local villagers who tell stories collected from their parents and

62 process of utilitarian and decorative pieces. pottery,of thereandtravelerthe chanceappreciatingthe has of completethe making thefinishing details. Pampallaqta, the most distant community, the is master the in art to weaving the fromprocess, entire appreciatethe can one Theremade. southernare Andes the of textiles best the possible are what where place the is Chahuaytire grandparents. Another option is to learn about local art, especially textiles and pottery. 63 Southern Andes Cusco

Willoc y Patacancha

These communities, close to Ollantaytambo, are privileged sites where to learn about the valuable process of traditional cusqueño textile making. They open to the traveler, the doors of a world that is very similar to that of the local culture five hundred years ago, and that at the same time, boasts a dynamic modernity. Here, the villagers are becoming acquainted with the tourist as a way of integrating themselves to a larger society, that respects them as equals by acknowledging their diversity.

64 In the journey to Willoc the towns of Rumira Sondormayo and Q’elkanka are are great of skirts the at Q’elkanka cultivated, and wild both greens, of and space infinite appears an in spread Willoc Sondormayo heights, the From Rumira weavers. of of home also are towns towns These the visited. Willoc to journey the In roofed and adobe with reed. or built tiles with homes and with terraces as beauty such exceptional elements of and nature architectural cordiality mountainous a much combine with that them, the share sceneries of to in joy, aware willing are become and have traditions who their villagers of meeting value of chance the have will they products massive the and in Patacancha Willoc to in in the the Furthermore, of city markets Cusco. exhibited different very quality, great of pieces find that will know they they as there communities these visit art entity traditional of quality local the appreciate a who by travelers those Firstly, fruits. its of reaping accompanied is Culture Ollantaytambo) of and Communities been the Technology Traditional has of Center years (Andean CATCCO many denominated for that process This is culture. tourism ancient of living of world expression the the to by value more goes giving time as that secondly, and valued be to order in recovered be to has that capital a – valuable is their general in culture that their – and textiles first, discover, to began then villagers of The tourism. communities good of poorer benefits the the excluding other, the on and textiles), of (that treasure heritage true a meeting of side, one on opportunity the had having without this – in case Ollantaytambo – destination nearby a to came traveler the how time long a P: (084)20-4024/22-3627812683 Patacalle s/n,Ollantaytambo (CATCCO) Culture of the Community of Ollantaytambo Andean Center of Traditional Technology and INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION located at 78 Km (1h 30 min) from Cusco through a pavedOllantaytambo, road.of town the frommin) 30 (1h km 17 at located is Willoc ofcommunity The HOW TO GET THERE A s it usually happens with a series of communal ventures, in Willoc and and Willoc in for ventures, observed having communal from came of tourism to open series to stimulus a the Patacancha with happens usually it s

handicrafts gastronomy, nature, culture, archaeology, 2.750 masl Cusco Urubamba province, 65 Southern Andes mountains. As the traveler comes close to the town he will realize that a very Ollantaytambo important local theme is that of color, Considered a living Inca town, this as to the green of the natural elements, beautiful place is the threshold the human presence has added the to the amazonic area of Cusco. intensity of red and black, which Ollantaytambo is well-known for dominate the traditional attires: these housing the so-called fortress, which villagers are referred to as “huayruros”, is truly an immense ceremonial, as their clothes reminds of the colors political, military and administrative of this lucky seed. Ponchos knitted in site, built as terraces, where the stone different tones of earthly colors, chullos work, considered one of the most decorated with beads and buttons, refined expressions of sculptural and embroidered monteras, laces, braids, architectural work of the Incas can hands, everything in Willoc has the be appreciated yet Ollantaytambo harmonic movement demanded by the has thousands of secrets to be art of textile making, thus composing a discovered: the old town, of Inca world of color and life. Spindles, balls architecture but at present, inhabited of wool, loom, pots with boiling inks, by locals. There are also the prints natural dyes, raw fibers, everything left by the hybridization that took illustrates the print of a textile tradition place during the colony, which is that has a privileged heritage rank. expressed in mestizo architecture and in certain festivities such as that The villagers welcome the visitor with of the Lord of Choquekillca. songs and dances. The fact that some of them wear a white attire with long sleeves of the same color, stands out. It is the wifala, a dance that imitates the movements of the huallata (the Andean goose) and at the same time means joy and Inca nation. This reception introduces the traveler to the world of the weavers organized in a Textile Center in which 260 craftswomen from different communities participate. These women, of all ages, weave in the same manner as their mother, grandmothers, and their most ancient ancestors, and at the same time, work the fields and fulfill their duties at home. The men have similar roles and many of them complete their workdays as porters in the Inka Trail. There is activity in the area of the weavers on a daily basis, but it is preferable to visit it on Saturdays,

66 Cosmo vision. vision. Cosmo Andean traditional values which syntax a creating combined, when another and pallais the in (or icon each where lives women, of memory designs of language the how mostly,color, and each obtain they how about enquire also must One dyes. natural valley, the the of end the at ones the and fibers, between the provide areas upper the from weaving those subsists; for communities materials of exchange the how about artisans and authorities with dialogue to interesting very also is It silk. of texture the alpaca) or sheep (of fibers natural the give can that finesse such of all blankets, bags, weave marvels: llicllas, scarves, and women, who just as their neighbors, speaking quechua mostly association; hour from Here Willoc. there is also a weavers an half at located is Patacancha visitors. welcome to themselves prepared have they when inhabitants of Ollantaytambo. Ollantaytambo. of inhabitants the of imagination the in space important an has General plebeian the of legend the days, Inca, these Still new back. the power and and freedom his him Ollantay grants Yupanqui, rescues Tupac girl noble the this, Despite prisoner. him rebel. makes who to Ñawi, Rumi called General, another Ollantay by betrayed Yetis lad young the incites and relationship this Ollantay opposes she. did socially, Pachacutec so However, and her, ascended with love in he fell Cusicoyllor, Inca, Once the of troops. daughter the met imperial the of plebeian command a the Ollantay, of story the awarded was he that dedication about such with Pachacutec Inca served who is General It legends. prehispanic on based is the of setting drama Ollantaytambo the colonial ANDES THE IN DRAMA A ) has a meaning, unique in itself, itself, in unique meaning, a has ) ponchos , Ollantay , , which is, supposedly, 67 Southern Andes Arequipa

The Arequipa region, with its canyons, volcanoes, countryside and valleys offers a marvelous diversity of rural scenarios where local cultural and the inter-relationship between man and his environment remain as vital and harmonious as ever. Here, Colca and Cotahuasi feature their impressive canyons; Salinas and Aguada Blanca display their outstanding Andean biodiversity; and the Collagua and Cabana local cultures welcome the travelers interested in visiting this privileged land.

68 f ieo Tld. n oe f hs mgcl on, iios ae h psiiiy of possibility finding accommodationandsharing ancestralexperienceswiththelocalinhabitants. the have visitors towns, magical these of some In Toledo. viceroy of rule the reductionsduring Indian established of strategy the of createdpart towns as Vargas Llosa as “the valley of wonders”, the Colca also contains the Spanish colonial taming and breeding camelids, such as llamas and alpacas. Described by writer Mario irrigation and soil conservation systems, as well as in the development of systems for of development and design the in people Collagua the of skill the demonstrate used, fully still them of many terraces, of hectares thousand seven Almost Earth. the over exist nowadays that strata geological the all contains canyon Colca The zone. the of the star attraction. Over 20 cactus and 170 bird species prove the natural biodiversity as condor the with nature, privileged a observing allow associations fauna and flora the territory, this In valley. Colca the to belongs that range mountain Chilca the of part is which peak, Mismi the in located is River Amazon the of source distant most The times. pre-Inca since heights the and valley the inhabited have which cultures, T quality of its four Spanish colonial towns, and the living Cabana and Collagua and Cabana living the architectural and towns, the colonial Spanish landscapes, four its impressive of quality its for renowned is valley Colca he 69 SurSouthern andino Andes Arequipa

Sibayo

Sibayo is an ancient town built with stone and ichu grass, located in the Colca valley. For different reasons, its inhabitants gradually abandoned the town, occupying a new place closer to the highway leading to Caylloma. However, Sibayo did not intend to disappear. Today, Sibayo comes back to life with all its mystery and beauty, in an experience tourism project that offers a stay amidst the arid and demanding nature of the highlands, and at the heart of a unique history of Southern Peru.

70 INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION S P: (054)959539510 [email protected] (ASETUR) Tourist ServicesAssociation“Rumillacta” urnl, h od iao on hns gi bcue f t ebodre, looms, embroideries, its of handicraft because workshops, colcas again (cliff holes for shines storing food), under ever town blue skies. Sibayo old the Currently, traitor. Therefore,Sibayo would a mean “the denote traitor’s to barnyard”. used is “jayu” while language, same the in stone for Aymara word “shiva”, which means “canchón” or “barnyard”. the The fromword “haya” comes “Sibayo” stands term The Patasca. Collawa and Pachama Sibayo Pataca, units) of Collana Paque, Paraylas, Sibayo, Pachama Collana, Patacca, Pachama Cayao and oca (sweet tubers). Sibayo originally comprised the ayllus (pre-Inca and Inca social barley,growlivestockareinhabitantsSibayoNowadays,farmersandthe of potatoes the European market. wasestablished 1975,inwomen,80 by whobegan producing alpaca fiber clothes for necessary routes to the Caylloma, Arcata and Ares mines. The Handicrafts Cooperative In the 1970s, the town begins to move towards the bridge and thehighway, which to were the linked festivals,presence patronage of a temple built its in 1692, which of is a true importance jewel of mestizo the architecture byand art. both center,marketing wooland meat a wasinhabited1950s,because itcontinuedthebeuntiltown to The Spanish colonial authorities. chroniclers,accordingtheCollahuaIndiansconsidered weretheto the“outcasts” by thatthey may extract the cochayuyo (seaweed) and generate taxes. At that time, and the Viceroyalty grants lands in Matarani, on the coast of Islay, to the Sibayo Indians, so This Spaniard). CollahuavillagereceivedBautista1776,Sibayo.Juan SanIndeSpanish a theof name to entrusted Indians of (groups encomiendas and subdivisions), pnad udr h mdl f nin eutos creiino (territorial corregimientos reductions, Indian of model the under Spaniards the by founded was It Arequipa. in province Caylloma the of district a is ibayo

and gastronomy. nature, hiking, handicrafts 3810 –4300m.a.s.l. Caylloma Province 71 Southern Andes Its experience tourism offer guarantees relaxation, peace and contact with the living Collahua culture, a very rich pre-Inca culture, The houses are made of stone with ichu grass roofs, a warm combination of materials, as this is an intensely cold area. Proud of their heritage, the Collahua people preserve their traditions, continue speaking the Quechua of their parents and grandparents, and transmit it to their children. They have also preserved their clothes. Women usually wear a white blouse, multicolored long skirts, an embroidered vest with the “maquinasca”, a technique used from ancestral times, and a white hat with ribbons. The clothes of the Sibayo women are very symbolic, The San Juan Bautista Temple and it is possible to distinguish at first Sibayo’s temple is a monumental glance which of them are single, married building with sillar (white volcanic or widowed. Single women wear two rock), and its floor plan has the shape flowers in their hats, while married women of a Latin cross. It is composed only wear one flower, and widows wear a of a great nave crossed by the black bow. transept, with lower chapels at both opposite ends. The barrel vault roof When the visitors begin to talk with the has three lanterns or windows. Its local inhabitants, they will find out many solid lateral buttresses are a notable stories regarding the Wititi dance, which architectural feature in this temple, can show young men’s wit to conquer because Colca is a highly seismic their beloved. Since girls are afraid of zone. This extraordinary temple was their fathers’ reaction when they know built in the last decade of the 17th they have boyfriends, boys disguise century, together with many others themselves as women in order to dance that were erected in the process of with their girlfriends, and the fathers never Indian reduction and evangelization realize what is really going on. They dance of the zone. Among them, stand out in a circle, holding hands; the boys cover those of Lari, Yanque Cabanaconde, their faces with pompoms, in order to Coporaque, Madrigal, Chivay, Yapai, enjoy dancing with their girlfriends. etc. In some cases, Colca patronage festivals are common to several towns, The offerings and tributes to mother earth such as the Immaculate Conception, are still a common practice in Sibayo, celebrated between December 8 and and were not simply resumed for tourism 11, in the towns of Coporaque, Sibayo purposes. These ancient rites, linked to and Yanque. the tutelary apu (mountain god) Yanaso, are performed in association with different

72 Colca River. difficulty, pure a in and silent natural environment, with the permanent presence theof surroundingspossiblepracticetheistotrekkingIn Sibayo it differentwithof levelsof to tell about this. stew to any woman wearing one flower on her hat, as she will surely have a good story thissecret ofthe visitors askshould Ccapchi: the weddingasparties, suchateaten are the ingredients produced in the zone. They also have special dishes which are only Sibayo’s gastronomy offers a variety of dishes made with trout and alpaca meat, which guarantee that the new home is not going to suffer any accidents or misfortunes occasion,antosuch traditiononThe madetribute requests shouldbehouse. a that everydaybuilda instance,momentseventsoflife;forandgoingtosomeone when is River, where the Nuevo Sibayo town has been lately installed under the name of Collagua. In 1666, the Spaniards built a thebridgeimportance overofits mines, theCaylloma Apurimacwascreated separateasa province in1565, Collaguapeople, and, it was at that time that the temples began to be built. Due to Cayllomatogether with Gonzalo Pizarro. They had the mission of Christianizing the tothis date.Inthe early Spanish colonial times, Franciscan missionaries arrived to withtheancestral exploitation goldofand silver mines, activityan which continues Maucacaylloma,“Viejo Caylloma” where itispossible tofind urban remains related to women’s clothes, close especially their garments.noticeable in Caylloma is in differencesbetweenCabanaglance,Collaguatheand whichveryaarepeople at theoriginal inhabitants in ayllus and ethnic groups. It is possible to distinguish great towards Arequipa, and, Cuscofrom from there, came Inca he The groups.expanded both dominated Cápachis Mayta control Incaparties. over the zone, organizing throwing of fond peaceful rather and were basin river same the ofWestern zone withtheir rivals, the Cabana people. Contrary to this, the people who occupied the zone of the Colca River basin. These were Colca.bellicose The Collaguamen, andwho Cabanawere people. constantly The Collagua fighting people occupiedDuring the theEastern pre-Inca times, two cultural groups inhabited T the valley currently known as he C ollagua

and C a b ana

people 73 Southern Andes

North Coast

A splendid world of preincan cultures of different nature, and of living towns that opens in the north of Peru. The desserts, the valleys, the dry forests, the coast, the beaches and ports, all shelter archaeological and historical testimonies with peculiar and defined features, which in addition to what can be appreciated in the southern Andes, in the center and in the Amazon, give account of the endless diversity that makes our country stand out.

74 give testimonyof this. Mangroves)(Tumbes Tumbes de Manglares the The and Tucume, days. Chaparri, these of ventures Peru in experiences traveler’s great the of one is inhabitant local strong and joyful northern, a by guided sites these Visiting populations. local the of life traditional the into look inside an get to traveler the allowing present, already is In the sceneries of the Peruvian coast, northern rural and experienced-based tourism at thesametimeonethathas larger amountofprotected territory. Tumbestropics.The is the Peru, like in alreadysmell smallest that region,the coasts towns, cities, the marvelous restaurants of countryside and marine food, and the blue Continuing up north, the dry forests accompany the traveler, and so do the traditional as naturalmountains. archaeological center composed by pyramids that as the result of rain erosion appear moche Tucumea while is Brünning, and TombsSipan Royal of found: are museums cultivated wherever they are found. In the small city whereof Lambayeque, two exceptional city vital all are cuisine a tasty a and is horse, paso TrujilloPeruvian the territory.marinera, the as such our traditions in plaza main largest the of contour the I Los Órganos te ot w hv Tujlo a euiu ct fmu fr its for famous city beautiful a Truijillo,tenement buildings), colonial and republican houses, that rise have in the center, drawing we north the n PACIFIC OCEAN El Alto Máncora TUMBES Zorritos HUNTING RESERVE EL ANGOLO CERROS DEAMOTAPE

Zarumilla Lamabayeque CHICLAYO NATIONAL PARK RESERVED ZONE San Pedro deLloc Sullana PIURA Mórrope TUMBES

Pacasmayo 1 Motupe

TRUJILLO

Chepén 2 Chocope

Paiján ECUADOR

3 Bambamarca Cutervo Pomahuaca Pucará Pucará CAJAMARCA

Chicama

Bagua Grande

To Lima

Sócota Chota

Celendín Tingo Luya San Marcos Cajabamba Huamachuco

CHACHAPOYAS Leymebamba

Juanjuí Bellavista

MOYOBAMBA

3 2 1

Chaparri Chaparri fromTucumeCraftmen Mangroves ofTumbes Protected area Unpaved road Paved road Port Airport, Distrital capital Province capital Regional capital border Departamental border International (colonial solares Lamas Tocache Tarapoto Picota

0 50 Km

75 North Coast El Bendito, Tumbes

Mangroves of Tumbes

A notable case of protection of a resource is the one happening in the Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary. This valuable ecosystem has been impacted during decades by logging and indiscriminate extraction of crabs and mangrove cockles. The local populations, which pressed by necessity act as predators, are nowadays in charge of an project that protects and preserves the resource, and provides them with an environmentally friendly economic alternative.

76 f t canl, n wih lo ucin a a eclet etn st. t present, At site. resting excellent an as functions also which and channels, its of lookout, from which the the observation of of the mangrove is shoresinitiated prior to the the navigation on path tourist a Zarumilla estuary. The build pier, which has also to been built to add value to the materials project has a local used have they Also, Center where rigorous information is provided on the natural history of this mangrove. Interpretation an is there sanctuary the Inside resource. this of management the for created specifically wells in extractions mollusk of demonstrations make guides The asgather aswell information on fauna, the enormous biodiversity that is and not always visible to the new flora traveler. of species different the differentiate and see visitor to the allow and canoes in done are mangrove the human to outings a The as experience. nature sees who people by guided area protected the of nucleus the through transit to possibility the privileged: something traveler the offers project The by theirinterest toappreciate itsqualityandbiologicalwealth. the most interested in taking care of the mangrove, as tourists come to visit motivated work, the original situation began to be reversed and at present, the local villagers are with the goal of making a serious entrance into the topic of ecotourism. With time and activities organizational and training the in actively participate to began Esperanza), Nueva ASEXTRHI the and Community (inthe Rural Bendito El the inhabitants Pedro, San The organized ASEPROHI them. with alternative an find and communities local the to close getting about was it place, first environment.In the of deterioration Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION is after the town of Zarumilla, which is located on the km 1.289. To the El Bendito community one can arrive via the Panamericana Norte highway. The detour HOW TO GET THERE T P: (072)9972713858 Area deConservaciónPrivadaElBendito: P: (072)9972614447/972621223 ASEXTRHI Hidrobiológicos NuevaEsperanza Asociaoción deExtractores deRecursos P: (072)9972801050/972981497 Hidrobiológicos sanPedro ASEPROHI Asociación deExtratores deProductos INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS e ctuim etr i te agoe eegd n 95 s n ntaie of initiative an as 1995 Pronaturaleza in in alliance with emerged the INRENA, mangroves and its the goal was in to stop venture the accelerated ecotourism he

boats, beach nature, faunaobservation, 6 masl province of Zarumilla, Tumbes 77 North Coast national and international tourists come to the mangrove brought by local tourism operators who are indirectly part of the project; there is also an interesting frequency of school visits from Tumbes, who learn in situ about the importance of the protection and conservation of a resource that belongs to them.

The Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary has an area of 2.972 ha and is located in the province of Zarumilla, in the Tumbes region. It was established as a protected area on March 2, 1988. It shelters a great diversity of aquatic invertebrates of economic importance for the local populations, as well as some species in danger of extinction such as the American crocodile. The main objective for the creation of the area is “the protection of the mangrove forest, species of aquatic invertebrates of economic importance and the American crocodile; and to promote recreation and tourism”. Along this line, emerged the current communal venture, within a concept of ecotourism propitious for the development of economic activities that contribute to the protection and the

THE MANGROVE Mangrove is the word with which a group of species of trees and shrubs that grow in the tropics in the confluence of saline and fresh water are called. What most calls the attention in a mangrove are the roots, long enough to adapt to the tides, which cover and uncover the shrubs according to its daily flow. The mangrove grows by gaining terrain to the ocean, which then allows a great quantity of sediments and organic material of much use for the rest of the ecosystem. Of all the sceneries provided by the planet for life, the mangrove is one of the most productive. For example, the mangrove forests of Tumbes are formed by a group of up to 40 botanical varieties, and they constitute the refuge of an enormous variety of wild flora and fauna. About 150 species of birds inhabit this sanctuary, out of which 8 depend exclusively on this habitat; 37 species live in the shrub thicket close to the mangrove, in the estuaries and mangroves 43 species o birds have been identified and 26 species are migrant North American. It is said that 42 species of river fish can be found in the mangrove, and the existence of 93 species of fish, 33 of gastropods, 34 of crustaceans, and 24 of bivalves have been reported. Also, the presence of 12 species of mammals has been reported.

78 these amphibians are bred and then then habitats. natural and their to returned bred are amphibians Here, these hunting. indiscriminative to almost Rivers due Tumbes have the from that dissapeared animals these of (Fishing project breeding a FONDEPES Fund), Development of kept entity area farm the this breeding by crocodile in the visit is to place Another dissonant voices. seagulls,intrulya extraordinary concert of and Night-Herons, cormorants, crowned Yellow- herons, gray and whiteBoobies, frigate birds, Blue-footed confused, Boobies, and altogether appreciate,Peruvian to possible courtship. is to There it orsleep to there gather that birds of quantities (Island of the Birds), is covered by immense When the tide is high, the Isla de los Pajaroscoverthesandwhenthetide goes down. spectacleperformed bythe red crabs that Island)(Whale allows Bone observing the environment.The Hueso deBallena Island servemangrovefriendlyvery cocklesa in restaurants rustic its where out, stands Among them the Isla del Amor (Love Island) in front of the coast. It is also essential to visit the islands spread varieties: red, white, black, salted and pina. thelowandhigh times, seeitstoinitfive Pizarro the mangroves can be visited Puerto In extraordinary cuisine.during localthe and scenery marine northern the enjoy for to center where space a is importanttraditional fishing. It an and cockles mangrove the of paradise the is Pizarro Puerto on zones. buffer its towards consists moving sanctuary the of nucleus the of visit the to complement good A making profits inasustainablemanner. resource, the of conservation of thePeruvianNorthwest. and Sullana Reserve Biosphere the of form ), provinces the in Piura, of north the to reserve(located Hunting Angolo El the with two, last and These Region) Reserve. TumbesNational the Piura the to extends also it of part (which Park National Amotape de Cerros the Sanctuary, National Tumbes de Manglares the Tumbes:in AreasProtectedthree are There forests. tropical and weather dry by characterized place special a equatorial line, they turn the the zone into meet they when and found, be can cordillera eastern the of foothills last the territory is this In ecosystems. varied Tumbes and rich that diverse, of fact scenery the to due occurred has This area. conservation as catalogued is territory its of 33% areas: protected most the has that in Peru and at the same time, the one smallest the Tumbesis of region The TUMBES OF AREAS PROTECTED 79 North Coast Tucume, Lambayeque

Craftsmen from Tucume

Tucume is reached via Chiclayo, or also through Sican, crossing the Pomac forest. It is an archaeological site of the , erected in the dry forest close to towns where the living culture is the soul of the place. A project supported by the Nailamp Executant Unity and a local patronage – sponsored by Backus and the World Monuments Fund – focused on the activities of the local craftsmen add value to the visit.

80 r msl sadrie ad f o qaiy it oiia pout wt a cultural a with products original into quality, low of and standardized mostly are which services, and products local transform to is challenge identity.The local new the with association its to thanks valued services, and goods generating in consists of the development processes based on giving value to the archaeological patrimony According to a document found in the generative base of the project: “the third phase dishes, northern of array excellent an accompanied withfresh chichaascomplementtothevisit. traveller the offer Tucume gastronomy: with from happens ladies same the The identity. cultural local the of context the all have been rescued, which have been used in pieces made nowadays, but that reflect designs and techniques traditional There, museum. the to adjacent store handicrafts the and workshop the visit: the enriches element new a But guides. qualified highly The tour includes the visit to the museum and to the Huaca Larga Pyramid, guided by the Community, HandicraftsandGastronomy. to Integration Conservation, and Research components: four has Museum Tucume sustainability.The its ensure to order in community neighbouring the integrates that constructive pattern recreates traditional prehispanic architecture. It is a whose living content, ethnological museum strong with proposal a is It culture. Lambayeque the of throughgoing of experience pleasant demise and life development, the of step every the visitors the provides TucumeMuseum The America. South of all in construction adobe largest the is it Indeed, height. of 30 and width of 280 length, of meters 700 dimensions: largest the with building the is Larga Huaca bricks. adobe of thousands E: [email protected] E: [email protected] P: (074)83-0250/42-2027 Tucume Museum INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION always take the road to the town of Lambayeque. Tucumeis located at 35 km (30 min) to the north of Chiclayo via apaved highway. One must HOW TOGETTHERE T the great constructions constituted by 26 monumental buildings made with out of he Tucume Archaeological Complex has an extension of 22,135 ha; there stand out

gastronomy, nature culture, archaeology, 45 masl province ofLambayeque 81 North Coast identity that can be recognized by the tourist, and at the same time, is attractive to the urban consumer. To generate this added value many strategies have been put into place. One of them consists in using prehispanic iconography to attract potential consumers”. This objective has been fulfilled in Tucume, to the extent that they are managing to commercialize their handicrafts at an international level.

The craftsmen from Tucume make jewelry, bags, chests, and paintings, among other utilitarian and decorative accessories that are exported and exhibited in local and international fairs. They have formed an association which represents the families of the community. On their part, these artists train the young to expand the activity and thus, improve their quality of life.

THE HORCONES This is an exemplary lodge for its adaptation to the natural and cultural environment. It is located very close to the Purgatorio hill, one of the most important huacas of Tucume. It was built with materials found in the area such as adobe, quincha (reed and mud) and even carob, which have revaluated the elements used in this part of the country. The rooms follow a rustic line in terms of color, decoration, beds, cupboards, and nightstands. The building won the first price in the Biennial exhibition of Architecture in Lima on 2002.

82 whose testimoniescanbeappreciated intheexcellentadjoiningmuseum culture, Sican the of vestiges the appreciate can one which in Area Protected a is Pomac of Forests the while opulence, colonial of rests the show Zaña textiles. its and yarn traditional its for famous Monsefu, and weaving, reed its for known well is it as mentioned be must Eten handicrafts its for known cities to reference Pimentel to In Bays. Jose San Eten and Rosa Santa the and from beaches, beautiful of 14km are there Cayalti; agrarian and the Pucala museum, Pomalca, Tuman, Brünning of the cooperatives Museum, Reales Tumbas Tucume the the find museum, can we areas surrounding the In Muses). the of (Walk Musas las de Paseo the and convent Maria Santa the the Palace, plaza, Municipal the main cathedral, its out stand Chiclayo of center the In Rajada. Huaca in Sipan of Lord the Tombof the as such attractions tourist numerous has Lambayeque TO VISIT IN LAMBAYEQUE 83 North Coast Lambayeque

Chaparri This was both the first Private Conservation Area to be created in Peru, and a successful communal tourism and conservation venture of the Santa Catalina de Chongoyape Rural Community in Lambayeque. A process of recovery of the dry forests put into place by the community to protect the species of fauna in danger of extinction sheltered by this intangible forest, demonstrated that it is possible to change predatory tendencies. In Chaparri, amongst palosantos (Bursera graveolens), pasallos (Eriotheca discolor) and hualtacos (Loxopterygium huasango), the traveller can obtain a great experience of nature and peace.

84 Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION a through Chiclayo of east paved road. TheentrancetoChaparriisthrough an unpavedroad. the to (1h) km 66 at located is community Chongoyape The HOW TO GET THERE C P: RPM#306719 P: (074)978836344 P: (074)433194 Chaparrí-ACOTURCH Naturaleza yenTurismo Sosteniblede Asociación paralaConservaciónde INFORMATION ANDESERVATIONS routes of the rescued species, as well as paths related to the archaeological and and archaeological the to related paths as well as species, rescued the of observation routes diverse following of opportunity the has one There patterns. following mochica materials local with built cabins beautiful some in stay can travellers the reserve the In habitats. natural their into reinsertion their for ready them get they and forests they take care of Andean bears, guans, White-winged guanacos and condors, and Private of of Communal management model a protected resource, In recognition. with its international a is Chaparri Today it. of portion tourism the managing and a villager,the project also local Plenge, supporting continues generations. to coming horizon ample more and healthier a giving in and lost been had what recovering in interested villagers local the of tenacity the by sustained they initiative an began Conservation plan, formally management rigorous Private a through first and time, our that At ha. as 34,000 with categorized Area was Chaparri 2001, December In inhabitant oftheseforests. bear,Andean the guans, White-winged ancient guanaco, the and condor Andean the the as such reserve the in species threatened the rescue to conditions the create to also but resources existing the protect to sought venture The front. conservationist the towards and itself community the within way its made project the little by Little the aim of establishing an Ecological Reserve and in this way, conservationist preserve the dry forest. with of association Naylamp the advice created community and this Plenge, support Heinz photographer the With language. their from eradicated been has hunt word the present,Yet, at hunters. fox and guans bear,White-winged deer,as history long a with breeders,them stock areof and They most farmers small ogyp i te lss tw t te at Ctln o Cogyp Rural Chongoyape of Catalina Santa Community, and the the villagers go there to to do their shopping town and run their errands. closest the is hongoyape

ecology, conservation watching, treks, adventure, nature, bird and flora 150-1.553 masl Lambayeque province ofChongoyape, 85 North Coast cultural resources of the area, such as the route of the huachuma, as the San Pedro cacti are referred to on the north coast. A great experience is that of visiting Chaparri guided by the locals. Very committed people who know the forest perfectly and who are in condition of providing privileged information. Furthermore, Chaparri is a perfect place to rest, within the forest, surrounded by birds, taking fresh baths in the dam river, watching the hummingbirds playing over our heads.

THE DRY FORESTS History has not been respectful with the dry forests of the north of Peru, which could be considered amongst the most valuable habitat in the planet as a result of the biodiversity they shelter. Uncontrolled logging to get wood and building materials, hunting and stock breeding have been, ever since the Colony until now, the biggest threats against its subsistence. Before the Conquista, it is documented; the local inhabitants managed the forest with a rational and conservationist criterion.

Many entities look at the dry forests with special alert, and watch over their protection and conservation, based on the idea that the local inhabitants have to be directly engaged with the endeavour, as otherwise, these resources will be irremediably lost.

86 allowed therescue forlifeoftheWhite-wingedguanbegan. bird in the San Isidro ravine. From then on, a complex and fruitful process that has Thus, an expedition directed by Del Solar and John ornithologist O’Neill found the bird with the characteristics of the guan had been sighted in Olmos, Lambayeque. a that confirmed which farmer local a from news the received Solar Del 1977 In species. the repopulate and rescue to sought and north, the of forests dry the in search have a begin to must Solar del still Gustavo conservationist specimen convened she the and existed that sustained Peru, in intensively worked who it declared community extinct. Towards scientific the second half the of the 20th century, Ornithologist disappearance Maria Koepcke, its with confronted When lost. completely was trace its then Taczanowsky, but Ladislao environmentalist by Century 19th the of half second the during described first was species This THE WHITE-WINGEDGUAN 87 North Coast

Northeast

The regions of Cajamarca and Amazonas are part of the Nor-Amazon circuit and they contain first level tourist routes, in the unique synthesis that Peru exhibits among archaeology, history, living cultures and natural resources. The route begins amongst the green countryside of Cajamarca, sharing the smiles of their joyful inhabitants, and it ends between the walls decorated with friezes of the Chachapoyas, in the humid forests of Amazonas.

88 sustainable tourism offer in the Peruvian northern Amazon. textiles. Little by little, other initiatives along the same line expanded the promissory andIn Amazonas the town of Maria with its accommodation houses and the rescue of their Cajamarca, the Encañada and Sulluscocha rural and poverty. In prevalent cultural projects a to against open fight initiativestheir doors. that, with over and culture, living take their travelers offer today of inhabitants the nature, splendid a by surrounded and tradition with filled amazonians, and cajarmarquinos these, as such spaces In that repeat symbolicfigures workedonsandstone. unmistakable style of the Chachapoya iconography, which consists on regular friezes the during approximately inhabited years 800 and 1500 of our era. was Without doubt, a defensive fortress, shows it the and constructions rock 400 than more contains It sites. archaeological Chachapoyas the all of known most the is Kuelap a balcony over the wonderful Laguna de los Condores (Lagoon of the Condors).that contains the Chachapoyas and Inca funeral deposits, found Throughin a mausoleumthis road open oneas accesses Leimebamba, headquarterstraveler.offersexperiencethegreatPeru thethat of of regenerate an water,one andthe extraordinaryis museum encountergiganticthe Marañon Rivercutting never-ending the cloudforests thatkeep C To Cutervo Granja Porcón Porcón Granja NATIONAL PARK CAJAMARCA o o rm aaac t Aaoa truh h dset rm eedn and Celendin from descent the through Amazonas to Cajamarca from go To ajamarca is a beautiful city with pleasant weather surrounded by a green countryside. CUTERVO

Sócota 2 Chota Hualgayoc Lonya Grande HUNTING RESERVE SUNCHUBAMBA Bambamarca Encañada Llacanora Namora 3 San Marcos Matará Celendín Sucre CHACHAPOYAS Lonya Chico Tinta Santo Tomás Lamud Luya Leimebamba 1 Tingo Levanto Balsas María Protected area Unpaved road Paved road Airport Town Distrital capital Province capital Regional border border Departamental Huancas Magdalena Molinopampa Cheto 3 2 1 Sulluscocha Encañada and Porcon Farm Maria, Kuelap 0 10 20 Km 89 Northeast Amazonas

Maria-Kuelap

Experienced-based and adventure tourism is starting to grow in the Amazonas region where the famous kuelap complex is located, as well as an immense number (it is calculated that more than five hundred) of archaeological testimonies of the Chachapoyas and Inca culture. Today, in the locality of Maria, a new component is being prepared to directly contribute with the improvement of the income of the local population through their handicrafts (textiles, leather work, etc) and lodging in family houses.

90 P: (041) 813088 Asociación ComunaldeTurismo deMaría INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION via an unpaved road. The community of Maria is located at 36 km from Tingo HOWthat TO GET THEREis at 34 Km (1 h) from Chachapoyas I all the population have been taking place. The idea is that the inhabitants of Maria, Maria, of inhabitants the that is idea The place. taking been have population the all with planning on participative workshops this, For rescue. of cultural plan of a major the of charge in one complex task of preparing the the in population the is topic of tourist services in the PROMARTUC context is acronym whose program integral An traditions. and affections their with customs, and uses their in of stage culture, on is, that at local final based own their scale; their that services can they offer quality so population its the organizing and on training important: most is is what on working are Maria they nowadays However, to visits. the increase to Chachapoyas contribute it and from construction, goes that highway The and muleteers. and accommodation mules, and horses of hiring occasionally, and services guides as well as for meals, asking village the by living appeared and also resources little, culture, archaeological by its see little to by Amazonas project; to required the arrived who be of travelers to engineers began and inhabited, personnel left technical were archaeologists, that houses lodging original The by Narvaez. Alfredo monitored is archaeologist, that Maria in project initiatives archaeological new a previous point its starting again as using up take archaeological to to decided dedicated promotion entities cultural its and research through State the times, recent more In ofidentity.the with the local rescue poverty against the fight to integrate sought that textiles for workshops of of line this creation the stagnation generated ventures in these of The lack the continuity making. on, later and mid-90s) the (during houses generate a good offer of experienced-based tourism, such as habilitating lodging lodging habilitating as such tourism, experienced-based of offer good a generate to destined activities some Maria in develop to tried have they years, previous n

bird watching, adventure culture, archaeology, nature, 2.385 masl Amazonas province ofChachapoyas, 91 Northeast of all ages, get actively involved in the development of tourism. An important line of the project is the one that works with school children in an activity denominated “How I love my town”. Moreover, the Mincetur has established the objectives of a Plan of urban development for Maria that has been handed to the municipal authority, just as it has been done in the neighboring villages of Tingo and Kuelap.

As a result of the workshops above mentioned they have defined specific interventions of recovering some urban spaces in these towns as part of the Copesco Plan, where they must respect the typology of the use of stone and wood in the constructions for tourist services. The PROMARTUC contemplates the construction of a lookout for visitors, where they will exhibit the products made in Maria and in other communities of the area and the region. These products are the ones that come from the hands of the craftsmen and craftswoman who have been working in textile workshops, using waist and pedal looms, and sowing machines. Moreover, they are bringing back traditional leather work

GIVING VALUE TO KUELAP Kuelap is the most important tourist attraction of Amazonas, with its high walls, its circular constructions and its towers opened over the abyss. The archaeological complex has a Master Plan for its recovery; between the years 2003 and 2006, five and a half millions of soles have been invested in conservation efforts. In 2007 a portion of the exterior wall was improved and of the drainage system; stairs to access the interior of the fortress have also been built, and interior edifications have been recovered. In a recent visit the Minister of Commerce, Industry and Tourism, Mercedes Araoz declared that: “Kuelap has gone from a state of emergency to a state of tourism product to be used”.

92 to incorporate Maria in the tourist tourist the in Amazonas. of positioning Maria incorporate strategy to marketing a design which will they with organizations social different local the consolidate to seek they time, same the At cabinet-making. and the visitsofallsitesmentioned. in urban terms, is the starting point for managed well very Chachapoyas, of archaeology.and city the part, its For adventure of an combination optimum by conformed is Condores de los Laguna the hand, other the added. On be to has Leymebamba of mausoleums impressive the which offer,to archaeological Dead, the complete the of Town the and of Macro constructions the mausoleums, the The sarcophagus, of Carajía niche tourism. the on experienced-based part their do all they others, amongt Hierbabuena, Choctamal, La Jalca, Duraznopampa, Maria, Longuita, Tingo, Lamud, Luya, of towns The fall. of meters 771 with waterfall, the third highest in Gocta the with world, the as circuit such attractions great this of part becomes Region Amazonas The Urubamba. upper of Valley the of part as circuit Nor-Amazon the to belongs Kuelap ENDLESS AMAZONAS 93 Northeast Cajamarca

Porcon farm

Tourist visits to the Porcon Farm have been promoted since 1998, when the Atahualpa-Jerusalen Agrarian Cooperative decided to undertake an initiative in this sector destined to improve the quality of life of its inhabitants. The strategy consisted in transforming an inhospitable place in the Andes into an attractive town surrounded by pine forests where the community supply tourists with all the necessary comforts in terms of lodging, meal, and guides, as well as a pleasant stay that allows sharing their daily activities.

94 W: www.granjaporcon.org E: [email protected] P: (076)36-5631 Jr. Chanchamayo1355,Cajamarca CAT Atahualpa-Jerusalén INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONs Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION The Porcon farm is located at 31 km (1h) to the north of Cajamarca through an unpaved road HOW TO GET THERE T destined tothemaintenance oftheforests. responsiblecontrolledand profits The hunting. be from will obtained deer hunted the has become necessary; thus, they will also have a new attraction for travelers fond of intervation deer,human of population the control that predators natural of absence the with as reserve, animportant hunting a establish to permit a forests INRENA the with negotiating they are In the present, At developed. has observing, worth trout. deer, White-tailed contain of population rivers the enthusiasts fishing the For sites withthesafetyneededtoenjoy. different in camp to or riding horseback go walks, take to environment appropriate production of potato seeds and the stock-breeding tasks. The Porcon Farm offers an the forests, the of maintenance the pines, of plating activities the as such daily cooperative, the the of in tourists of participation the is visit the of attraction main The potatoes, ocas, ullucus, lamb meat, hen, beef, guinea pig, rabbit, and lately, trout. inthe restaurant and in the preparation of meals based on their local products such as personnelThetrainedbeenPromperu hasby Cenfotur andprovide servicegoodto a Sierra Verde Hotel-Inn the allows of a locationpanoramic The environment. view pureof all the and landscape healthy of a the Porcon by surroundedfarm. rest pleasant a polluted and stressful. The inhabitants offer lodging at affordable prices and they ensurewherebreatheto interpenetrateandairnew lifestylewitha different city,thethatofto of adequate services have rendered the cooperative into a model of the idealone generateddestination by the productive activities of the Porcon Farm, as well as the availability e oprtv dvlp dfeet aite o cmua tuim uh as such tourism communal of varietiesexperienced-based tourism, differentrural tourism and ecotourism. develops The wild beauty and cooperative the he

gastronomy trekking, nature, culture, 3.300 masl province ofCajamarca 95 Northeast In the farm there are seven tourist circuits to be offered which show the local handicrafts, the zoo, the vicuñas, the waterfall and cascades, the Inca trail, the milking of cows, the cultivation of potatoes, the feeding of sheep, among the activities performed on a daily basis in the community.

All CAJAMARCA Other tourist attractions worthy of visiting in the city of Cajamarca are the Cathedral, the church of San Francisco, the Belen Monumental Complex, the lookout of Santa Apolonia, the Rescue Room, and the Inca Baths. Outside the city we find the Rock Forest and archaeological complex; the , the towns of Encañada and Namora, and the extraordinary archaeological site and museum, among many others.

96 of the farms as associates, practice the evangelic faith. signs with biblical messages along the highway, as 96%To ofthe impact the produced 53 byfamiliesthe landscape onethat must add theare disciplined part presence of than nine thousand hectares that have been forestedis thewith onlyalmost associative thirteen venture million of thispines. sort that is still successful.property Today,was kept under there the are form more of a cooperative calledAlejandro Atahualpa-Jerusalem, Quispe which– the distribution of the landreforestation in projectparcelsput intowasplace by stoppeda Belgian mission and – and tothe the work ofcollective leaderAtahualpa theto SAIS(Social Agrarian Systems). There,thankssupport thea toof Intheorigin ofthePorcon Farm isanold hacienda that theLand Reform integrated FOLLOW TO EXAMPLES 97 Northeast Cajamarca

Encañada and Sulluscocha

In the countryside of Cajamarca it is possible to staying with the local families, which allows the traveler to taste the meaning of the natural and cultural space. The possibility of experiencing day-to-day life in Encañada and Sulluscocha is combined with adventure sports and archaeological knowledge. This project is pioneer in its genre on the Peruvian Northern Andes and it distinguishes itself for its cultural authenticity.

98 INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Encañada is located at 30 km (45 min) to the east of Cajamarca via paved road. HOW TO GET THERE T Celendin Kilómetro 38 de la carretera Cajamarca - (076) - 340836 Teléfono Comunitario de Encañada Namora Kilómetro 18delacarretera Cajamarca - (076) -830117 Teléfono ComunitariodeNamora quality of the service. The Encañada has a two-bedroom accommodation, each one each accommodation, two-bedroom a has Encañada The service. the of quality the of management and festivities, traditional of strengthening and rescue identity, aspects related to ecotourism, such as creating awareness on cultural patrimony and The two families that receive tourists in both communities have been trained in diverse by hishosts,withtraditionalmusic and dancessettingthemood. chance to sit around a warm fire and listen to stories, myths and Andean legends told manufacture of hay hats. Then, after a long day on the fields, the traveler will have the the in and work, reed and iron wood, in guitars, of making the in participate traveler the make will they and craftsmen areexpert him welcome will that villagers local The terraces or homes, in irrigation works and in the preparation of the land for cultivation. He will also have the chance to be part in communal work such as the construction of according totheseason. other,and among quinoa, pears, prickly barley,chocho, legumes, beans, lima ocas, maize, potatoes, as such area the of products different harvesting by either chores farming the of part be to and cattle the graze to family the accompany to able be will he then song, cock’s the with up wake to wishes visitor the If ovens. mud in bread prepare to how learn to privilege the have also fires; they wood on pots mud in them breakfasts, traditional of lunches and preparationdinners with agricultural goods the harvested during the on season, and cooking participates traveler and the Encañada In Sulluscocha extinction. of verge the on lifestyle a about learn and host his of conditions living the of improvement the with collaborating time same the at while in the activities of the field and shares the lives of the villagers that welcome him, he premise of this total experienced-based venture is that the traveler participates

based tourism, agriculture handicrafts, experienced- archaeology, gastronomy, nature, trekking, boats, 3.000 maslapprox. Namora, Cajarmarca province ofEncañadaand 99 Northeast THE GOOD COUNTRY TABLE This venture has two country homes prepared to accommodate travelers in areas separated from the family room. During the stay the traveler will taste typical dishes from the region prepared by the women of the community. The breakfast consists on barley coffee, wheat and legumes accompanied with cachangas (fried bread) with caramel or cheese, boiled potatoes and soup. For lunch one can chose between a potato and rice stew with guinea pig; fried pig with peeled mote; soup with barley and corn flour; picante of potato with legumes and corn; chupe of potatoes or limabeans with barley flour; chicken stew; and boiled potatoes with grinded bell pepper and wheat rice. The dinner, much lighter, consists on freshly baked bread with cheese or caramel, soups or infusions of local herbs.

for three guests; though it is also possible to camp close to the house. Amongst the activities of this community, stand out the visit to the Tambomayo trout farm, a town that has a beautiful church with an adjacent cemetery. It will be possible to appreciate the traditional wheat mill powered by the force of water, the farming school, the Sunday farming fair, the beautiful route through the ancient Cápac Ñan.

In Sulluscocha the house also has two bedrooms, very warm and with a splendid view of the lake of the same name. Among the activities offered by the family, is the trek to the Kollor archaeological site and the San Nicolas Lake, passing through small villages on the basin and sighting species of local flora and fauna. Also, the visit to the rests of the Capac Ñan, beginning the walk from Sulluscocha to the Baños del Inca, with flora and fauna observation. In the close town of Llacanora it is possible to visit beautiful waterfalls as well as the Callacpuma caves that has abundant paintings.

100 the Andean Cosmo vision. vision. Cosmo Andean the of portion a understand to traveler the allow and nature of force the to All omens. these moments ceremonial are and linked songs recite and cigarettes Inca traditional the smoke liquor), (cane cañazo drink they Then chacchar (chew) the sacred of coca leaf. time the precedes that bonfire a with begins ritual The view. sacred and telluric own their to according the combined and adapted have farmers that and domination, western religious despite from souls country extinguished the have be that to resisted gods Andean ancient earth), (mother Pachamama the to and mountains) and to (hills Apus offerings the do they which rituals during mythical ancient of part be can traveler the Sulluscocha, Lake in and Encañada of town the in Both RITUALS GRATITUDE 101 Northeast

Central Andes

The Ancash region is set apart by towering mountain ranges, dazzling glaciers, and by ever-lasting snows. As well as being site of the Huascaran National Park, it is one of the world’s most privileged alpinism hubs. The Peruvian traveler usually visits this region to travel through the Callejon de Huaylas, the charming villages scattered throughout, and its incredible mountain chains. However, the Conchucos Valley hides one of the greatest surprises for visitors from the country or from any spot on the face of the planet.

102 C marvelous spaces. marvelous Konchucos the Tambo as Trek such or the Inka each Naani, of which the enrich traveler’s of these experience tourism, experienced-based and rural and adventure, for of variety a from enterprises, national and initiatives international NGO’s, entrepreneurial and local are communities that there offer options setting historical and beauty natural this To all network. entire the of preserved best the as some by considered Trail, Inca of stretch large rather a to thanks Incas the of presence the see You can de Chavin like sites archeological of Pampa. Huanuco and Huantar wonder the to background breathtaking a mountains and fabulous lakes complete the superb natural and ecological panorama, Majestic meters. 3,500 to meters 2,550 from fluctuating elevations valley in out spread are this in Villages B.C. 1300 and B.C. 900 between somewhere flourished and 2 1 at dazzying 3,820 masl. This is the area where the Chavin culture established established culture Chavin the where area the is This masl. 3,820 dazzying at Huari, capital, its and region western central Ancash’s in located is onchucos Protected area Inca road Unpaved road Paved road Town Distrital capital Province capital Regional capital Regionalborder Inca Naani Konchukos Tambo 0

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K m HUARAZ Ticapampa To Lima Catac Tinco Conococha Pachacoto Querococha NATIONAL PARK HUASCARAN Chavin de San Marcos Huántar Chiquian Huantar Huari 1 Pomachaca Huasta Carhuayoc Aquia Pachapaqui Huallanca Ayash RESERVED ZONE HUAYHUASH 2 L Colpa a

U n i o n 103 Central Andes Ancash

Inka Naani

This project takes its name from a Quechua expression used in the Conchucos area that means “foot path constructed by the Incas”. The enterprise was launched in 2004 as an initiative by the Mountain Institute and in association with different villages and towns along the route. It is set out upon a stretch of approximately 75 Km of the Great Inca Route, starting at the village of Castillo, Ancash, and ending at the archeological site of Huanuco Pampa, in La Union, Huanuco.

104 other, similar paths, and they will have access to an intercultural experience through experience intercultural an to access have will they and other,paths, similar of traffic the without yet difficult relatively route mountain high the find will Visitors work. and life of way and traditions, language, shepherds’ and farmers enterprising these enables that learn to locals them the with sporting adventure for chance the there find will who travelers world all for option privileged a presently is It Kuntur.body, local the and Institute Mountain the by supported was project Naani Inka the beginning, the From are there where territory sites. archeological a amazing extraordinarily of heart the in being of and Huaraz of city the to close being of advantage the plus this of All route. the along scattered towns small the of of the natural surroundings to the world and offer lodgings in homes of the inhabitants was to open this resource, archeological alive and sporting a face life, and initiative the beauty this behind idea The Peru. in routes trekking after sought most the of one into path ancient this develop to together joined Mayo), de 2 of district Huanuco the (in Pampa Huanuco and Ancash) Province, Huari of district Huachis the (in Castillo between located communities, of group a 2003, of end the At llamas. by helped are they times many goods, their transport to pathways paved flagstone wide the use still people While construction. original their since passed have years of hundreds if even resource valuable a still are roads Pre-Hispanic these Cordillera, Huayhuash the and Park National Huascaran stone’s a the from throw region, Conchucos the of valleys inter-Andean the in living people the For there. found are network entire the E: [email protected] P: (043)943948657 P: (043)422362 Juan OliveraBelen,Huaraz Jr. GabinoUribe#646,esquinaconPasaje Yachaqui wayi Information andreser Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: U is asphaltedtillyoureach SanMarcos. road The region. Conchucos entire the traverses that and Sihuas to you take will that road the of beginning the marks that town the fromCatac, hrs) (4 Km 110 is Huari of village The HOW TO GET THERE I S as stated by Ricardo Espinoza, an expert on this resource, the best stretches of of stretches best the resource, this on expert an Espinoza, Ricardo by stated as the Andes, great n Ñan Capac the Trail)(Inca northern is the called and Inka Naani, E F UL IN

F OR M and culture trekking, archeology, nature, lodges alongtheroute average of 3500 masl Huari Province, Ancash ATION v ations 105 Central Andes living in the communities themselves, enabling this way to appreciate the Andes fully. The placement of this section of the Inca Trail makes it easy for the traveler to combine this cultural and adventure experience with circuits found in the Blanca and Huayhuash Cordilleras and with visits to Huanuco Pampa and the temple of Chavin de Huantar.

Families involved in this project earn money from providing tourist services that complement their regular jobs. In addition, the population has been able to enhance their schools and local communities (in cooperation with groups associated with solidarity tourism), and families have built their organizational capacities so that their projections and proposals for their homes are based upon standards of sustainable management. Moreover, the project has the support of the city governments of both Huari and Huachis for helping with the conservation of the paths and for the development of a sustainable tourist product.

Archeological wonders The Inka Naani connects two important archeological vestiges: Chavin de Huantar and Huanuco Pampa. The former was a pilgrimage site of enormous import for the people who lived three thousand years ago in what is now Peru. The famous Peruvian archeologist Julio C. Tello, found that Chavin was the cultural model for the oldest civilizations in Peruvian territory. The site is composed of spectacular stone temples and squares, yet, by far its most impressive aspects are the subterranean galleries. Artifacts of religious sculpture found on the site bear witness to the truly sophisticated skill of Chavin’s artisans with some of the best examples being the Lanzon and the Raimondi Stela. Its counterpart, Huanuco Pampa, was built by the Incas in the second half of the fifteenth century as an important administrative center in the network of roads that interconnected the empire. Out of all the Incan ceremonial altars discovered, the Huanuco Pampa’s is one of the finest.

106 region’s overalldevelopment. to make a genuine contribution to the in the end, they can be capitalized on so, values these strengthening them, identity and the cultural nature that surrounds their of framework guiding an the within evolve should that one but as seen activity catalyzing a and opportunity be should tourism learning, that their Within for development. means more one posses will they that their and nature and culture preserving to added value is throughthat so therefamilies tourism farm for spaces learning promote to (2) and surroundings, nearby their in development support they that order NGO in government city local as well Kuntur,as the like local organizations, strengthen to overall (1) other objectives: two has project The Looking towards the f uture 107 Central Andes Áncash

Llamatrek

This trekking, that begins in Olleros and ends in Chavín de Huántar, allows the visitors to see the wonders that compose the Callejón de Huaylas, in the company of local inhabitants, who are most suitable to describe what the travelers are observing from the depths of their own living experience.

108 archeological center. beautiful crosses Huántar that de Chavín the until trail Park National Huascarán the pre-Incaof landscapes snow-capped ancient the through group the accompany will that llamas the provide inhabitants the where Olleros, of community the in The begins tour supplies. and equipment the transport to llamas uses and towns, friends local the of from company the in out carried is which trek, several-day a through activities, mentioned above the all enjoy travelers the let to conceived Llamatrekexperience an is hot springs, at8Km.from Huaraz,are anotherimportanttouristattraction ofthiszone. Monterrey The others. among paragliding, biking, mountain rafting, water white Andean deer, fauna: arepracticed in the park’s sports buffer and zone, of such as: trekking, series mountain climbing, rock A climbing, flora deer. tarucas and varied condors pumas, vicuñas, exceptionally bears, spectacled an has Huascarán the which includes Park, zone National This climbing. mountain especially sports, mountain practicing areasfor attractive most the of consideredone is range Mountain White The stunning their with visitorsmountains and their the fertile and amazebeautiful valleys. canyons Huaylas and Duck the while ranges; mountain Black and White the betweenscattered are and everyday lifeAncash’s rural a seat of what is still considered the Peruvian cultural matrix. Small, livingThis zonevillages houses replicatea very important testimony of the past, the Chavín de Huántar complex, and theculture ofthepeopleswholiveonitsheights. www.perullamatrek.com [email protected] P: (044) 721 266 Pasaje. Agustín Loli N°463 La Soledad – Huaraz Olleros –Chavín(ASAM) Mountain AssistantAssociation“Sector INFORMATION ANDRESER Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: U by following the Huaraz, Recuay, Catac route. Canrey Chico is located at 30 Km south of the city of Huaraz. It takes 20 minutes to get there How togetthere T S E F of the great diversity it offers to the visitors, regarding the wealth of the mountains the of wealth regardingthe visitors, the to offers it diversity great the of he Ancash Region is, undoubtedly, one of Peru’s foremost tourism zones, because UL IN F OR M handicrafts and gastronomy. nature, hiking, archeology, camping 3.200 –4.700masl Callejón de Huaylas, Ancash ATION V ATIONS 109 Central Andes local inhabitants. Music is indispensable for relaxing and getting used to the beauty of the place, encouraging the cultural exchange with the local dwellers and the visited communities. The music is played with guitars, harps and violins, instruments that accompany the travelers while they sample the local gastronomy and have pleasant talks with their companions. Thus, hiking by steep ascents, and over flat paths, always under a clear blue sky, The travelers may also visit handicraft the visitors will discover the privileged workshops, where they may purchase conjunction between nature, history and products manufactured by the local living culture in this zone. It is a paradise inhabitants, mainly textiles. This visit will at over 3,500 m.a.s.l. be an opportunity to exchange views with the dwellers, get more acquainted Llamatrek offers several services in with them, and obtain sound advice the regular route to meet the clients’ which will be very useful during their preferences and budgets; besides, it entire trip. Chavín will offer a privileged is possible to request programs for experience to those travelers who rock climbing and trekking in the White, are fond of archeology. The active Huayhuash and Rosko mountain ranges. participation of the local community is essential for enriching this product. It Among the different activities offered combines adventure, interaction with in the route, the visitors may opt to local inhabitants and environmental participate in a purification ceremony in management, reviving the use of llamas Waullaq, led by regional mystic healers as Andean cargo animals. who make an offering while hiking by the place. Visitors may also execute and enjoy musical evenings together with the

The City of Huaraz Huaraz, capital of the Ancash Department, is a big city with a population of over 120 thousand inhabitants. In 1970, this area of the country was the epicenter of a catastrophic earthquake, which devastated Huaraz and other cities in the Callejón de Huaylas. Huaraz was rebuilt with a temporary emergency criterion, which remains until now. Huaraz does not have any particular attractions, except for its cosmopolitan environment and its excellent local and international food restaurants. Huaraz offers lodgings and restaurants to meet all preferences and budgets, and its main street exhibits hundreds of tourist agencies that sell excursions towards different places in the zone.

110 of the Chavín complex, has been been has recently inaugurated. complex, Chavín the of front in located A museum, River. splendid Marañón the and Range Mountain Central White the between Andes, the A.D.) throughout (600-900 expanded Empire Huari territory. The Park National Huascarán was Huari withinthe settledcultureanotherthat coast. and highlands expanded throughout culturePeru’s Northern This walls. temple external the to fastened heads) (stone clavas cabezas the and Stela,Raimondi the Obelisk, the Spear), (Giant Monolithic Lanzon the as such sculptures of stone corridors and galleries. Stone composedconstruction complex a is and River, – Mosna or – Puccha the of shores the at Huántar, in de Chavín located was center cultural The Park. National Huascarán the now is what of part in settled history our of cultures the pre-Inca of important most one ago, years 2,500 Over C ha ví n d e H uántar 111 Central Andes Áncash

Vicos

The Ancash community of Vicos is part of the Callejón de Huaylas, and it is located at the brink of the Huascarán National Park. Its rural and community tourism project is already consolidated, and its axis is the coexistence with the local farming families, the learning of production handicraft and agricultural techniques and the cuisine of the high Andean region, as well as the festive rites including music, dances and religious ceremonies.

112 P: (043)943948657 www.yachaquiwayi.org [email protected] P: (01) 423 446 (temporal) Wayi” Center forResponsibleTourism “Yachaqui INFORMATION ANDRESER Highlights: Altitude: Location: Ficha small village of the Callejón de Conchucos. the route you will find the town of Marcará, from where you must take the road leading to this Vicos is located at 40 Km northeast of Huaraz, by following the route leading to Caraz. Along How togetthere I a goodtrekking bytheSevenEmpires community as such places, interesting make to and Honda, Quebrada very Llacshac, Lagoon, Cocha Irca,Lejía Chopo Kekpampa, approach to point starting the also is Vicos forget. never will they environment an in birds, of sound the and sky air,blue fresh enjoy will travelers Vicos, in stay their During as fields. crop such improving or activities, schools, paint to volunteer helping out carry to possible is it Vicos in activities, sports and best stay in the community. There, the visitors may find out that, besides the recreational the for recommendation and data of types Yachaquiwayi,all providecalled they where In the city of Huaraz, the inhabitant of Vicos run an interpretation and information center the wild flora and fauna. visits to traditional markets and fairs, enjoying a landscape that is never boring, observing From Vicos it is possible to make short hikes to visit different archeological communitysites; that exhibits as testimonies welllocal ofa cultural as tradition which isvery much alive. Center is a particularly interesting place to visit in Vicos, as it is an historical memoryyou ofmay participatethe in culinary and cultural activities. The Grandparents’ House Cultural enrichment.Theyhelpmaylearnyouagricultural farmstheworkinhandicrafts,and and interculturalandfriendship of source a is familiesfarming Vicos’ withcoexistence The Range forrelaxing andhealth-orientedactivities,suchashotsprings. Mountain Black the of those and activities, adventure for Range Mountain White the of the inhabitants of Vicos will explain that, during their stay, visitors may use the resources amity,traditional their With Ranges. Mountain Black and White the of greatview scenic beautiful ascent lined with eucalyptus trees. Upon arrival, visitors are amazed by a by amazed are visitors ina arrival, Upon trees. Carhuaz, eucalyptus with from lined minutes ascent beautiful fifteen walk to necessary is it Vicos, reach to order n

t é cnica handicrafts and gastronomy. nature, hiking, archeology, 3,052 masl province, Ancash Marcará district, Carhuaz V ATIONS . 113 Central Andes In order to fully enjoy a celebration, visitors must come to Vicos on its anniversary date, July 13. Around that date it is possible to taste an excellent local food, which includes picante de cuy (guinea pig spicy stew), chicharrón con canchita (pork rinds with corn nuts), pachamanca (meats and vegetables cooked inside an earth oven with hot bricks), peasant bread, yunca with hen, potato uchu and the famous tocush.

Chancos Hot Springs The Chancos hot springs are at 30 Km north of Huaraz, in the Marcará district, and they are managed by the Vicos community. These hot springs sources are very transparent and their temperature ranges between 68ºC and 72ºC. Their medicinal properties are very renowned. The services provided at Chancos are: a large pool, a small simple puddle, and the so-called “caves”. The latter are highly valued by the springs users, who enter them carrying eucalyptus branches, so that they emanate a menthol-scented vapor, which enters the lungs helping those who suffer from respiratory ailments. Besides being relaxing, the Chancos hot springs are therapeutic, especially for the treatment of bone and muscle ailments.

114 vizcacha condor,rodent, and the grey deer”. Andean including vicuñas, bear, species, spectacled mammal the 10 and bird 112 Preliminaryfaunastudiesmeters.have identified flower,twelvetallest altitude of an reaches which among them, the species; outstanding Puya raymondii, 779 the world’s and genera 340 families, regiondocuments theexistence of104 vegetable Dr. David Smith about the flora of the highAndean varietyof flora and fauna. study A conducted by impressive an of development the allow microclimates which of variety a having as identified Quechua. Within the Park, seven zones have been Ancash the tongue,native its includingtradition, Andean the in rooted traditions ancestral its of many preserves still Park the around lives that populationlocal 1985. Thein site Heritage World Natural1977 ain as ReserveBiosphere and a as it recognizedUNESCO 1975. in Park National a declared was HNP The rivers.41 and lakes 296 glaciers, 663 snow, and ice permanent includes until 6,768 meters above sea level, the topography biodiversity.and metersaltitudesWith2800 from its spectacular scenic landscapes, cultural wealth within tropical the White Mountain Range highestand is notable for world’s mountains. The Park has peaks over the 6000 m.a.s.l. includes which “The Huascarán National Park is a global treasure webpage:http://www.mountain.org/work/andes/: Huascarán the National Park describes in its Institute Mountain naturalofresources, TheVicos. caseof the in as depredation the check to order incommunities, projects the alternatives economic provide to tourism to intended rural develop to is strategies its of one and resources, mountainousplanet’s the preserve and of care take to organization is international this of objective The Huaraz. from Institute) (Mountain Montaña support de Instituto the the withof born was Project Vicos The H ua s carán N ational P ark 115 Central Andes

Amazon

The territory of Peru encompasses 84 out of the 104 life zones identified on planet Earth, and these contain more than the 20% of the plant and animal species of the entire planet. The greater part of this biological wealth is found in the Amazon, where scientists have recorded more than 25,000 plant species, around 1,800 bird species, 361 mammal species, 251 amphibian species, 297 reptile species, and more than 2,500 fish species.

116 Amazon, are RumboalDorado,PosadaAmazonas,andCasa Matsiguenga. Peruvian entire the for setters standard examples, such Three resources. natural of conservation the to due State, the by watched closely are Amazon the of part this in forests the visiting for Choices restaurants. fabulous its and handicrafts, quality high Puerto of city Maldonado the because of visit its to lively and have colorful you market, its Region, numerous Dios stores offeringde local, Madre the to travel you When of 2,080,000hectares. find the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, second largest reserve in Peru with you an where area also is Region Loreto The Rivers. Itaya and Nanay the of confluence the at River Amazon the of banks the on located Loretois It place. fascinating truly a is Region, the of capital Iquitos, tourism. experience-based and ecotourism involving businesses for sites main and East Peruvian the of cities main the doubt without are Maldonado Puerto and Iquitos wealth. natural overwhelming an possess that forests T To Abancay Anta e mzn ein eis n h wsen lps f h Ads n descends and Andes eastward, towards the the vast of Amazonian plain, which slopes is formed by western different types the of on begins region Amazon he NATIONAL PARK Protected area Unpaved road Paved road Port Airport, Distrital capital Province capital Regional capital Regional border border International CUSCO MANU Urcos COMMUNAL RESERVE AMARAKAERI 1 3 2 1 Manu 20 deEnero Posada Amazonas Casa Matsiguenka 0 50 Km To Puno MALDONADO BAHUAJA -SONENE NATIONAL RESERVE PUERTO NATIONAL PARK TAMBOPATA

ALLPAHUAYO MISHANA NATIONAL RESERVE NATIONAL RESERVE PACAYA SAMIRIA 2 Nauta IQUITOS

3 BOLIVIA BOLIVIA

117 Amazon Manu, Madre de Dios

Casa Matsiguenka

This venture invites travelers to penetrate the Manu National Park, one of the most important natural resources on the entire planet and classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The project fits under the category of ecotourism, understood as a natural resource management activity that provides communities with incomes on the basis of protection and conservation of the area. In this way, the native populations become the first and best allies of the park, and this same responsibility is conveyed to the visitor.

118 Amazon, anextremely traumaticepisodein historyforthearea. survive the forced labor recruitment during the time when rubber extraction swept the to managed people these how about and Matsiguenka the of culture and history the learn history,can Center,travelers Visitor language, the In their practices. medicinal traditional with and farming contact direct in being inhabitants, the with life daily interestingmost the course, Of sharing is aspect ornaments. and clothing making for and hunting, and fishing for use they implements making for techniques the travelers teach also will peoples Native lakes. mentioned above the to leads that system a trail along forest the of tours guided on you take will they and guides, be to dwellers community Youhire lodge. can the run directly of they that seeing groups, inhabitants ethnic local with meet to opportunity the guests its to offers Matsiguenka Casa after youhavereceived permits from theirauthoritiestodoso. on the banks of the Upper Madre de Dios River. You can visit these communities only located zone, buffer park’s the in communities native Amarakaeri and Matsiguenka also are There wildlife. its and forest the with relationship their for as well as beauty scenic their for attractions great Park are which Dios, National de Madre Upper the and Manu of the are rivers main The jaguar). a even lucky, are you if and, herons, turtles, capybaras, macaws, (peccaries, reptiles and birds, mammals, banks, the on resting or eating see, to possible River,is Manu it the on travel During birdwatchers. of disposal the at tower observation an places Otorongo Lake otters. giant curious the as such animals, other and hoatzin, the like birds, of diversity great a to habitat is River, Manu the by createdSalvador, Lake splendor. its all in wildlife Amazonian Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION In order to get there it is necessary to contact an authorized agency. CasaMatsiguenka islocated ontheshores ofLake Salvador inside theManu National Park. HOW TO GET THERE T E: [email protected] P: (084)22-5595/984849473 Av. ElSol627oficina305,Cusco Empresa multicomunalMatsiguenka Information andreser e xeine s necial ad o nesad t yu ae o ie t Once it. inside Manu live and in the adjoining areas of Casa Matsiguenka, to you can appreciate have you it, understand to and indescribable is experience he

and fauna,boats,lakes watching, Amazonianflora nature, hiking,bird 200 masl de Dios Provinces of Manu and Madre v ations 119 Amazon VISITING EDEN The Manu National Park boasts an area of 1,716,285 ha, making it the third largest national park in Peru’s National System of Protected Areas, that covers 12% of the country’s total land area.

Manu itself is found in the jungles of two departments in southwestern Peru, Madre de Dios and Cusco. It contains different ecological tiers, and ranges in elevation from 300 meters to 3,900 meters. It is furthermore the country’s protected area with greatest amount of biodiversity, holding world records for various natural aspects, such as number of species (1,000 bird, 1,200 butterfly, 13 monkey, and 7 just of macaw), percentage of the plant species of the world at 10%, and many others. Within its boundaries live several threatened species, like the jaguar, river otter, harpy eagle, and the black caiman.

The Empresa Multicomunal Matsiguenka is property of the native communities of Tayakome and Yomibato. Profits gained from tourism are evenly distributed between the two communities and are later invested in social activities for improving their members’ living conditions. Close to 600 people are direct beneficiaries of those investments. Similarly, tourism helps maintain the communities’ cultural characteristics, the most important being the sustainable use of the park’s natural resources, an effective contribution to its conservation and reproduction. Every inch a lesson in ecotourism.

120 I de bns s ht h inhabitants themselves built the the lodge. that is bonus Added people.nativethe ofcultural formsthe Casa off modeled are facilities ofMatsiguenka location and Design,construction, showers. and restrooms for the kitchen and dining room and another totalof 24 beds. One module is used as grand a for each, rooms double three Casa warmth. Matsiguenka features four modules with characteristic their with visitors welcome who members directly services employ Matsiguenka All community Otorongo. and Salvador to the surrounding areas and to the Lake excursions and accommodation, food, Casa Matsiguenka offers transportation, ndigenous P ro j ect 121 Amazon Madre de Dios

Posada Amazonas Rainforest Expeditions is a Peruvian ecoturism company, founded in 1982 under the mandate of providing of an authentic ecotourism experience that is both educational and sustainable through conserving areas in which it operates. It runs three lodges located in the tropical jungle: Posada Amazonas, Refugio Amazonas, and the Tambopata Research Center. From the moment of its launch, it defined itself as an ally of the local native communities, and its association with these is already a paradigm for other enterprises to follow.

122 Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION embark in the Infierno port and then sail a boat for 40 minutes. fromPosadaPuertoAmazonasmMaldonado. located30 is 1h To therenecessarygetis to HOW TO GET THERE P www.perunature.com E: [email protected] F: 421-8183 P: 421-8347 Rainforest Expeditions Information andreser location is ideal for introducing the jungle to travelers. Opened in 2005, it has 24 24 has it 2005, in Opened travelers. to jungle the introducing for strategic ideal lodge’s is The location Maldonado. Puerto Tambopata from the hours in three River just Dios Reserve, de National Madre the to close very sits Amazonas Refugio clay. mineral-rich the eat to cliffs nearby the to daily flock parrots and macaws of hundreds as sound and color of spectacle a lick, clay the is attraction lodge’smain The heart. its at Amazon the experience to endangered several where looking travelers and researches Reserve, for alternative the perfect the is lodge The live. species of National one Tambopata in the located of is areas TRC The remotest research. and recreation for both 1989, since animals, The Tambopata Research Center (TRC) has been welcoming tourists and and researchers plants observing boating, others. and lectures, paths, specialized to listening thematic along observation an hiking from canopy tower, forest the observing Chimbadas, Tres like Lake activities, visiting different includes members This trip. whose concession. entire the for community, them tourism the guard and in guide year will experience 20 a wonderful a granted have can been Travelers has Expeditions Rainforest and Infierno, of community native Ese’eja the to belongs lodge The both wildlife. of and nature conservation promotes which product ecotourism beneficial a together work develop to they which in one is company owned privately the the and between community relationship is the It because project Infierno. pilot of successful a community be to native considered the with association its to due America, Latin of being one of the most outstanding lodges and nature destinations in in destinations nature and lodges outstanding most the of one reputation the being earned of has then since and 1998 in opened Amazonas osada

ethnobotanical center lakes, macawclaylick, over forest canopy, watching, canopytower Nature, hiking,bird 200 masl Madre de Dios Province of Tambopata, v ations 123 Amazon rooms. The Madre de Dios River is habitat to a variety of mammal and bird species. Like with the Posada, Refugio Amazonas has boats for excursions, an observation tower, and a network of paths, but what sets this lodge apart is the agreement it signed with the ANIA Association, in which they have established a Children’s Forest where visiting children learn about the ecosystem and how to respect it through a series of recreational activities.

AMAZONIAN FORESTS AND ETHNIC GROUPS Madre de Dios is a region where virgin jungles abound and maybe the least touched and eroded area in the Peruvian Amazon. Besides, the combination of its rough geography, countless microclimates, and soil varieties has fostered the development of a wide range of life forms. Land of wide rivers and gorgeous lakes surrounded by a lush vegetation, Madre de Dios is the ancient home to several indigenous groups, like the Ese’eja, Machiguenga, Yine, and Haramkbut, as well as around a thousand indigenous people living in voluntary isolation deep in the jungle close to the mouths of the Manu, Las Piedras, and Tahuamanu rivers, following the cycles of the forest as they hunt and collect.

124 holding worldrecords indifferent zoologicalgroups. and the Tambopata National Reserve, sitting on an area of 1,478,942 hectares and located, is planet the on existing biodiversity varied most and greatest the where savanna of the country is protected, the Manu National Park (1,532,806 hectares), humid tropical only the where Park, National Bahuaja-Sonene the like Peru, all in Likewise, it is a hub of Protected Natural Areas featuring some of the most valuable trees). palm aguaje of area (swampy aguajal extensive and fauna diverse its with Sandoval Lake and Laberinto, of town the to next Valencia Lake time, summer during swimmers by preferred Castañales, Los Lake is there department, this in The selection of natural attractions in Madre de Dios is immense. Among the lakes OPPORTUNITIES FOR ECOTOURISM 125 Amazon Pacaya-Samiria, Loreto

Rumbo al dorado

This is the name of a spectacular product for nature lovers. It is located on one of the river basins encompassed by the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve. It began after years of work among different conservation entities and three communities of colonists (Yarina, Veinte de Enero, and Manco Capac) who settled in the Yanayacu-Pucate river basin. It is an ideal product for birdwatchers, researchers, photographers, and nature lovers.

126 Information andreser Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION connected to the city of Iquitosis whichby anNauta, asphalted of roadtown (95 km,the 1 fromh 30minutes m). 30 and hour 1 is Enero Veintede of village The HOW TO GET THERE F www.pacaya-samiria.com P: (065)223460 de MancoCapac Unidad dePescaComunitaria“Yacu Taita” Unidad dePescaComunitariaYanira de Enero Comité deManejoPalmerasVeinte grasp the enormousgraspthebiodiversity reserve. bankstheabounditsjacanas,of On herons, concentrationof vegetables substances in dissolution in the water, will allow travelers tripA totheorigins to oftheYanayacu River, blacka water river, consequence ofthehigh can takepartinmanagementactivities withthelocalinhabitants. Amazon. largest the Visitors the in paiche, fish the and arawana, fish, ornamental the project, renesting its and turtle under River Amazon taken yellow-spotted the arelike consideration, species important management, wildlife to comes it When fruits. tree palm aguaje of techniques harvesting non-felling and hearts) (palm palmito of such shining examples as the huasai palm tree reforestation project for the production with aresuccessful, they visibly and population, local the of lives daily the areof part In the Yanayacu-Pucate River Basin, activities that promote sustainable resource use the riverotter, andtheelusivepinkdolphinthatlivesin lakes ofthereserve. monkey,spider Peruvian the turtle, American South Giant the manatee, the caiman, black the like species, endangered and threatened are here protected Also species. 102 mammal, 240 reptile, 58 amphibian, 256 fish, and 1,024 cultivated and wild plant basically by swamps and floodable forests that host a varied flora and fauna: 500 bird, is located in one of the biggest depressions of the Amazon, a reason why it is formed through the use of such resources following the standards of ecotourism. The reserve lives their enhance to determined seriously resourcesand natural their to committed very are and services food and accommodations, information, guide, tour provide landscapes that are seen no where else in the Amazon. Here, the villagers themselves r we, h taee cmn t Pcy-aii’ aeisiig aquatic awe-inspiring mention to not Pacaya-Samiria’s species, animal and to plant unique observe to coming able be will traveler world the week, a or

hiking, conservation fauna, boats,sportfishing, Amazonian floraand Nature, bird watching, Below sealevel Province of Loreto v ations 127 Amazon RUMBO AL DORADO CONSORTIUM This community-owned and operated company, is the result of a socio- economic development project aimed to promote the sustainable use of biodiversity in fragile ecosystems. The people have proposed earning Neotropic cormorants, and a large variety income through ecotourism and of parrots. In its middle section you will being continuously trained, as well find the community of Yarina, which is as sharing the administration of the placed in a zone of high biodiversity, where business. Consortium partners are: more than 250 different bird species have • Green Life (Civil Association for been reported and includes a completely the Preservation and Sustainable uninhabited, rigorously protected area. The Development of the Amazon) great variety of wildlife in the sector features • ProNaturaleza (Peruvian Foundation marvels, like pink dolphins, macaws, and for the Conservation of Nature) primates of different species. The river • Veinte de Enero Management begins at Lake El Dorado, an impressive Committee body of water almost 500 ha, where the • Yarina Community Fishery Unit community dwellers of Manco Capac have • Yacu Taita (Quechua for “father of managed to repopulate the paiche and the water”) Fishery Unit of Manco Capac. arawana for their sustainable use.

128 of rivers, lakes, and ponds. and lakes, rivers, of is seasonally,and floods flat, and network by covered complex vegetation thick a land The mm. 3,000 to up of level precipitation yearly a and humidity, high 27ºC, of temperature average an with weather, tropical by characterized is region The Pucate, with the latter being site Yanayacu- of the the Rumbo and al Pacaya, Dorado Consortium’s the operations. Samiria, the basins: river three encompasses It world. the in river powerful most River,longest, the Amazon and the to Ucayali whichgivesthe birth to right before south, their the confluence north the to Marañon the it: border rivers forest. large Two tropical floodable the like ecosystems fragile protects and resources its of use makes that human more a population to of addition in area diversity an biological high a possessing hosting and Peru, ha in million 2 areas than protected largest the of one is It PACAYA-SAMIRIANATIONALRESER V E 129 Amazon Anexo*

PUNO www.auqui.com Taquile T: (051) 84-261517 All Ways Travel F: (051) 84-251278 Casa del Corregidor, calle Deustua 576, Puno. T: (051) 35-3979 Chahuaytire y Parque de la Papa www.titicacaperu.com Personal Travel Service S.R.L. Kolla Tours [email protected] Calle Moquegua 679 www.auqui.com T: (051) 36-9863 T: (051) 84-225518 E: [email protected] F: (051) 84-244036

Llachón TUMBES Asociación Santa María I: Cocodrilo Tours S.A.C. T: (051)951691501/951521527 Huáscar Nº 309 Asociación Santa María Il: T: (072) 52-4133 T: (051)951664828 E: [email protected] Asociación Kori Wasi: Tumbes Tours S.A. T: (051)951001444 Av. Tumbes 341. Asociación Kantuta: T: (072) 52-4837 T: (051)951671062 E: [email protected] Asociación Tika Wasi: www.tumbestours.com T: (051)951825316 Preference Tours and Services E.I.R.L. Asociación Pachamama: Calle Grau Nº 427 T: (051)951015261 T: (072) 52-5518 Asociación Samana Huasi: E: [email protected] T: (051)951637382 Asociación Central: LAMBAYEQUE T: (051)951408943 Chaparrí Asociación Apotour: Karen Belatin- Anahi Williams-Ana Plenge T: (051)951752227/951821392 T: (074) 45-2299 Asociación Adela: E: [email protected] T: (051)951654451 www.chaparri.org Asociación de Botes: T: (051)951643190 AMAZONAS María Amantani Coordinador Proyecto Promartuc II Turperu Gerencia de Desarrollo Económico-Productivo Calle Lima 208 2do piso Parque Pino Cáritas del Perú T: (051) 35-2001 Calle Omicrón 492, Carmen de la Legua, E: [email protected] T: (01) 613-5200 anexo 121 / F: (01) 613 5210 Solmartour Calle Libertad 229 CAJAMARCA T: (051) 35-2586 Encañada y Sulluscocha E: [email protected] Vivencial Tours Calle Joaquin Valverde 311 – San Borja CUSCO T: (00511) 224-3401/224-3367 /F:(00511) 224- Raqchi 3401 Proyecto Corredor Puno - Cuzo T: (00511) 993599474 - 997567761 Av. Confederación Nº 556, Sicuani www.vivencialtours.com T: (084) 35-1970 / 35-1626 E: [email protected] E: [email protected] www.corredorpuno-cusco.org

Pacha Paqareq Auqui Mountain spirit e-mail [email protected]

130 Communal

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