05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 3

1 The Best of the Big Apple

“Of the city’s five boroughs, Manhattan, in particular, refuses to remain as it was. It is dynamic, not static. What seems permanent when you are twenty is too often a ghost when you are thirty,” Pete Hamill writes in his book Downtown: My Manhattan. And the longer you live in this town, the more ghosts you will encounter. But New Yorkers adapt . . . sometimes painfully. Hamill explains: “The New York version of nostalgia is not simply about lost buildings or their presence in the youth of the indi- viduals who lived with them. It involves an almost fatalistic acceptance of the perma- nent presence of loss. Nothing will ever stay the same. . . . Irreversible change happens so often in New York that the experience affects character itself. New York toughens its people against sentimentality by allowing the truer emotion of nostalgia. Sentimen- tality is always about a lie. Nostalgia is about real things gone.” But though we might mourn loss, we also anticipate and expect change—it’s part of our way of life. We know that a restaurant, show, club, or store might be the hottest thing now, but a couple months later another has opened or been discovered and that once hot spot quickly becomes passé. But some icons and institutions are so entrenched in our daily lives that we just could never accept their loss. What would we do without that reassuring sight of the Lady in the harbor or the gleaming spire of the Empire State Building? Or the perfect pizza? Or a Sunday in Central Park? Or the rumbling of the trains beneath the earth? Or the sounds of jazz from a Village club? So while New York is ever-changing, its core remains the same. And we wouldn’t have it any other way.

1 Most Unforgettable New York City Experiences • Sailing to the Statue of Liberty, on Building, once again the tallest build- Liberty Island in New York Harbor. ing in New York, is one of the city’s If you have time to do only one thing definitive icons. Arrive at dusk and on your visit to New York, sail to the watch the lights of the city come on. Lady in the harbor. No other monu- It’s pure magic. See p. 234. ment embodies the nation’s—and the • Walking the Brooklyn Bridge: Man- world’s—notionCOPYRIGHTED of political freedom hattan MATERIAL has five major bridges connect- and economic potential more than ing the island to other shores, and Lady Liberty. It is also the ultimate easily the most historic and most fasci- symbol of New York, the personifica- nating is the Brooklyn Bridge. For a tion of the city’s vast diversity and close-up look at what was a marvel of tolerance. See p. 241. civic engineering when it was built in • Visiting the Empire State Building 1883, and a true New York experience, Observatory at Dusk: Like the take the walk across the bridge from Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Manhattan to Brooklyn. See p. 232. 05_945528 ch01.qxp8/2/068:07PMPage4 New YorkMetropolitan Area 4
George 9A 0 3 mi Washington THE BRONX N Bridge 278 0 3 km

Yankee CHAPTER 1 Stadium GREAT 125th St. 278 87 Throgs Neck NECK Bronx-Whitestone Bridge Bridge NEW 95 ver LONG CCentralentral 95 3 Ri Henry Hudson Pkwy. Rikers JERSEY PParkark Triboro ISLAND y Island on a . Bridge . s e w v d THE BESTOF THE BIG APPLE d A 678 u a h LaGuardia o t H r if Airport 295 B FFifth Ave.

River Grand Clearview Drive Pkwy. c i 95 1 MANHATTAN a 278 495 s Central s 42nd St. River Queensboro . a 9 ern Blvd Shea Stadium P FDR Bridge orth Lincoln NNorthern Blvd. FFlushinglushing M eMeadows–adows– Tunnel QUEENS 23rd St. East Queens Blvd. CCoronaorona P aParkrk Expwy. ) . 280 y Long V Hwy. w Expwy. HOBOKEN N.Y.U. Ex p a s n Queens- n Island ee W y. Midtown 278 u y 495 W c kw Canal St. Q o k P Tunnel n- o tral NEWARK ly d Cen 1 Delancey k h Grand Holland West Side o a o Pkwy. Tunnel r v 9 B e

( n 95 E 78 Q B wy. JERSEY Pk Expwy. Island WWilliamsburgilliamsburg Broadway n FForestorest o NNewarkewark 78 CITY Ellis BBridgeridge ns PParkark obi IInt’l.nt’l. A iAirportrport Island MManhattananhattan R Cross

ie Cross 478 k BBrooklynrooklyn BBridgeridge c Governor’s a BBridgeridge J Statue of Island 678 Flatbush Ave. Bay Liberty BROOKLYN P Newark e Brooklyn- n Bay Battery n 95 s y Tunnel l v Blvd. a Upper n ia New York A John F. Kennedy v Bay 278 Linden Blvd. e Int’l. Airport . Pkwy. Bayonne Bridge e r JamaicaJamaica B aBayy o h WildlifeWildlife Re Refugefuge STATEN ISLAND S 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 5

NEW YORK’S BEST MUSEUMS 5 • Taking the subway to Yankee Sta- • Spending Sunday Morning in New dium for a Yankee game: It doesn’t York: This might not sound so unfor- sound very intriguing, does it? Good gettable, but to experience the city or bad, there’s nothing like being minus the noise and activity is some- crammed into a subway car packed thing special. I’ve noticed quite a with rabid Yankee fans. And it’s an few tourists, usually jet-lagged Euro- experience you’ll not soon forget. See peans, wandering the parks and p. 243. streets early Sunday mornings. • Jogging around the Central Park • Walking 125th Street: Take a walk Reservoir: Okay, you don’t even have across this famous Harlem boulevard to jog it. You can walk the jogging and your senses will be assaulted from path around the Jacqueline Kennedy the music, the variety of stores, the Onassis Reservoir and take in the restaurants, the impromptu stalls sell- beauty of Central Park, the views of ing everything from homemade CDs Central Park West, Fifth Avenue, and to fresh bean pies, and the street especially the skyline of midtown prophets and musicians. The energy Manhattan. See p. 268. on this street is relentless.

2 New York’s Best Events & Seasons • Best Parade: West Indian–Ameri- Center, might bring out the Scrooge can Day Carnival and Parade. Held in you, the atmosphere is almost on Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn, this always festive and like no other time is the biggest parade in New York. of year. The music (calypso, soca, reggae, and • Best Time of Year to Come to New Latin), the amazing costumes, and York: Summer. Most people prefer the incredible Caribbean food make the temperate days of fall to visit New this an unforgettable experience. If York, and that’s when the city is most you’re lucky enough to be in town on crowded. But my personal favorite Labor Day, don’t miss it. See p. 34. season is summer, when the streets • Best Season in New York: Christ- are empty, restaurants and shows are mas. Lighted Christmas trees on Park easier to get into, and free outdoor Avenue, the big snowflake on 57th cultural events abound. and Fifth, the trees at Rockefeller • Best Day to Come to New York: Center and Lincoln Center, the New Year’s Day. The holidays are Hanukah menorah at Grand Army over. You’ve had enough festivity— Plaza at Fifth and 59th Street, the see above. You’ve wisely skipped the decorations in department store win- insanity of New Year’s Eve and arisen dows, restaurants, and hotels. And fresh and (relatively) sober. Get out even though the crowds, especially on the town early; you’ll have the city around Midtown and Rockefeller practically to yourself.

3 New York’s Best Museums • Best Overall Museum: American famed dinosaur halls to the Hall of Museum of Natural History. You Ocean Life, the Museum of Natural can spend your entire visit to New History houses the world’s greatest York at this 4-square-block museum; natural science collection. See p. 231. there is that much to see. From the 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE • Best Art Museum: Metropolitan makes it the classiest- and coolest- Museum of Art. Not only the best looking museum, inside and out, in art museum in New York, but the town. See p. 237. best in North America as well. The • Best Home Posing as a Museum: number of masterworks housed here The Louis Armstrong House is mind-boggling. See p. 236. Museum. This unassuming house in • Best-Looking Museum: Museum of Queens was Satchmo’s home for Modern Art. Though the sight of the almost 30 years and it’s been pre- Guggenheim is the most memorable, served almost exactly as it was when MoMA’s $450-million renovation he died in 1971. See p. 295.

4 Best New York City Structures • Best Historic Building: Grand Cen- deck, but this Art Deco masterpiece tral Terminal. Despite all the modern is best viewed from outside or from steel-and-glass skyscrapers in New other observation decks like the York, there are still many historic mar- Empire State Building. See p. 257. vels standing, and the best of those is • Most Impressive Place of Worship: this Beaux Arts gem. This railroad sta- Cathedral of St. John the Divine. tion, built in 1913, was remarkably Construction began on the world’s restored in the 1990s to recapture its largest Gothic cathedral in 1892 and initial brilliance. Even if you don’t have it’s still going on. But this is one to catch a train, make sure you visit. structure that benefits from being a See p. 234. work-in-progress. • Best Skyscraper: The Chrysler Building. There is no observation

5 Best Parks in New York City • Best Park: Central Park. One of the along the picturesque Hudson River is world’s greatest urban refuges—a a welcome alternative to the some- center of calm and tranquillity times-overcrowded Central Park. Bat- amongst the noise and bustle that is tery Park. At the island’s southern tip, Manhattan. See p. 265. walk the promenade and marvel at the • Runners-Up for Best Park: River- busy harbor with Lady Liberty out side Park. This 4-mile-long park there standing sentinel. See p. 271.

6 Best Places in New York to Take the Kids • Central Park. With its lovely • U.S.S Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Mu- carousel, a zoo, two ice-skating rinks, seum. Climbing through a retired and numerous playgrounds and ball battleship beats the playground any fields, Central Park is a children’s day. With real planes on deck and wonderland. See p. 265. interactive exhibits inside, kids are • Bronx Zoo Wildlife Conservation never bored here. Hurry, though: The Park. This is one of the great zoos in Intrepid is heading into dry dock the world—and you don’t have to be for renovation Oct. 1, 2006. See a kid to love it. See p. 285. p. 247. 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 7

BEST OFFBEAT NEW YORK EXPERIENCES 7

7 Best Places to Stroll in New York • The Upper West Side. With muse- Village is a constant, but pleasant, ums, two great parks, some lovely old barrage on the senses. buildings and brownstones, inexpen- • Chinatown. With the constant din sive restaurants, and a residential feel, of activity and very crowded side- this is my favorite neighborhood to walks, Chinatown might not seem stroll. like ideal strolling territory, but the • Greenwich Village. With its historic neighborhood is so colorful, it’s streets, hidden cafes, cozy restaurants, worth braving the mobs. and eccentric characters, Greenwich

8 Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) in New York • Ride the Staten Island Ferry. The • Visit Free Museums. Believe it or Staten Island Ferry is used daily by not, there are museums in New York thousands of commuters. Ride with that don’t charge admission. Two them for a great view of the Statue of of my favorites are the National Liberty, Ellis Island, New York Har- Museum of the American Indian bor, and the skyline of lower Manhat- and the Federal Hall National tan. You really can’t beat the price: It’s Memorial. See p. 252 and 261. free. See p. 240. • Take in a Game at the West 4th • Attend a Gospel Service. All around Street Basketball Courts, West 4th New York you’ll find Sunday gospel Street and Sixth Avenue. I don’t know services, but for some special soul-stir- what’s more entertaining here, the ring, head to Harlem and the Abyssin- showtime moves on the court or the ian Baptist Church or Brooklyn and inventive, constant trash talk that the Brooklyn Tabernacle. Services are accompanies the games. free but when the basket is passed, don’t be stingy. See p. 262 and 290.

9 Best Offbeat New York Experiences • Visit the Little Italy of the Bronx. New York skyline by taking them for With the demise of Little Italy in a ride on the Roosevelt Island Tram. Manhattan, the area centered around During the 4-minute ride, you will Arthur Avenue, known as the Little be treated to a gorgeous view down Italy of the Bronx, is the place to go the East River and the East Side sky- for old-fashioned Italian charm, food, line with views of the United Nations and ambience. Though it still quali- and the Queensboro, Williamsburg, fies as offbeat, word is out about Manhattan, and Brooklyn bridges. Arthur Avenue. See p. 81. On a clear day you might even spot • Museum of Sex. How many cities Lady Liberty. The Tram was shut can claim their own Museum of Sex? down in the summer of 2006, but Not too many! We got your Museum will be back in operation by the fall. of Sex right here . . . but you must be See p. 240 18 or older to enter. See p. 252. • Bike Along the Hudson River. If • Roosevelt Island Tram. Impress walking is just not enough exercise your family and friends with a little- for you, a good alternative is to rent a known but spectacular view of the bike and ride the length of Manhattan 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE via the work-in-progress Hudson • Ride the International Express. The River Park. As of this writing, you no. 7 train is sometimes known as the can bike from Battery Park to Fort “International Express.” Take it out of Tryon Park near the George Wash- Manhattan and through the borough ington Bridge. There are detours of Queens and you will pass one eth- along the way, which occasionally nic neighborhood after another, from take you off the paths. For bike-rental Indian to Thai, from Peruvian to info, see p. 269. Columbian, from Chinese to Korean.

10 Best Way to Spend a Day in a Borough Other Than Manhattan • In the Bronx: Spend the morning at Cap it off with a sandwich and a slice the Bronx Zoo Wildlife Conserva- of cheesecake at Junior’s (p. 218) on tion Park (p. 285) or the New York Flatbush Avenue. Botanical Gardens (p. 285) and then • In Queens: Take the 7 train, the head to Arthur Avenue, the Little International Express (see “Best Italy of the Bronx (see “Best Offbeat Offbeat New York Experiences,” New York Experiences,” above, and above), to the Queens Museum of p. 285), for an authentic Italian feast. Art (p. 297), on the grounds of the • In Brooklyn: First, take a look at 1964 World’s Fair, or the Louis Arm- what’s on at the always exciting strong House Museum (p. 295). On Brooklyn Museum of Art (p. 289), your way back, stop for a meal at any then get some fresh air with a stroll in of the ethnic restaurants you will find nearby, lovely Prospect Park (p. 292). within close proximity of the no. 7 train.

11 Best Splurge Hotels in Manhattan • Ritz-Carlton New York, Central • St. Regis, 2 E. 55th St. (& 212/753- Park, 160 Central Park South 4500). Across the street from The (& 212/308-9100). The combina- Peninsula, the St. Regis offers unri- tion of a great location across from valed luxury—Louis XVI furniture, Central Park, large well-outfitted crystal chandeliers, and silk wall cov- rooms, and excellent Ritz-Carlton erings—and impeccable service, service is as good as it gets. See p. 127. including personalized butler service. • The Mercer, 147 Mercer St. (& 888/ See p. 141. 918-6060 or 212/966-6060). The • Trump International Hotel & best of the hip, downtown hotels, Tower, 1 Central Park West (& 212/ The Mercer is in the heart of SoHo. 299-1000). Suites are huge and over- The high-ceilinged, loftlike rooms and look Central Park. Service is so good suites, some with fireplaces and all they treat you like the Donald here. with ceiling fans and luxurious bath- The great restaurant Jean-Georges rooms, are spectacular. See p. 117. offers room service, and guests have • The Peninsula-New York, 700 Fifth use of an excellent fitness club and Ave. (& 800/262-9467 or 212/956- pool. See p. 148. 2888). The combination of old- • The Carlyle: A Rosewood Hotel, 35 world elegance and 21st-century E. 76th St. (& 800/227-5737 or 212/ technology is best realized in this 744-1600). You are in rarefied territory practically perfect hotel. See p. 141. when you stay in The Carlyle. Service 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 9

BEST INCENTIVES FOR HOTEL-HOPPING 9

is elegantly white-gloved and rooms are • The Lowell, 28 E. 63rd St. (& 212/ sumptuous. Many have incredible 838-1400). Although smaller and views of the city and Central Park. And more intimate than The Carlyle, The don’t forget Café Carlyle for cabaret Lowell is just as elegant and roman- and Bemelmans Bar for a cocktail. See tic. Rooms are all unique; many have p. 152. fireplaces while some have good-size terraces. See p. 153.

12 Best Moderately Priced Hotels in Manhattan • Casablanca Hotel, 147 W. 43rd St. amenities. Breakfast is complimentary (& 888/922-7225). In the heart of and served in a lovely library. See the Theater District, the Casablanca p. 122. not only offers meticulously clean, • Sofitel New York, 45 W. 44th St. well-outfitted rooms at value rates, it (& 212/354-8844). This relatively also includes those little extras like new hotel exudes old-world (French) complimentary breakfast, bottled elegance. And you should be able to water, free high-speed Internet, and a score some good weekend packages lovely roof deck perfect for a cocktail on the Internet. See p. 131. on a balmy evening. See p. 134. • Hotel Metro, 45 W. 35th St. (& 800/ • Inn on 23rd Street, 131 W. 23rd St. 356-3870 or 212/947-2500). You’ll (& 877/387-2323 or 212/463-0330). find very good deals and lots of extras You cannot do better than this charm- at this conveniently located Midtown ing inn for top-notch quality and hotel that’s popular with Europeans. extras. Rooms are rustic and uniquely See p. 135. designed but all have up-to-date

13 Best Hotels for Families • Hotel Beacon, 2130 Broadway • Doubletree Guest Suites Times (& 800/572-4969 or 212/787-1100). Square, 1568 Broadway (& 800/222- Not only is this hotel a great deal—you TREE or 212/719-1600). This hotel can get good-size suites for much less boasts an entire floor of childproof than in Midtown—the Upper West suites, complete with living rooms for Side, with its parks, the Museum of spreading out and kitchenettes for Natural History, and fun, inexpensive preparing light meals. Also just a block restaurants, is a great neighborhood for from kid-friendly chain restaurants children. See p. 149. and the Toys “R” Us superstore. See p. 129.

14 Best Incentives for Hotel-Hopping • Best Hotel Suite: Townhouse Suite original art, a state-of-the-art stereo in the Kitano New York, 66 Park system, and a tea maker with green Ave. (& 212/885-7000). Each of the tea. See p. 143. three one-bedroom suites built inside • Best Inexpensive Hotel Restaurant: the landmark town house that is part Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien, of this hotel features a long hallway 118 W. 57th St. (& 800/543-4300 leading to a sunken living room with or 212/245-5000). Discreetly hidden 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE off the lobby, this unnamed burger discreetly dwarfed between two mam- joint has been discovered by locals moth office buildings and is the per- looking for cheap eats, so the lines are fect romantic hideaway in the middle long, but worth it. The burgers are of Manhattan. See p. 143. fabulous (see “Best Burger,” below) • Best Hotel Renovation: Carlton and under $6. See p. 199. Hotel, 88 Madison Ave. (& 800/601- • Best Hotel Bar: Bemelmans Bar in 8500). This former flophouse has The Carlyle, 35 E. 76th St. (& 800/ been restored to its 1904 Beaux Arts 227-5737 or 212/744-1600). Named grandeur by architect David Rockwell. after book illustrator Ludwig Bemel- Its sweeping lobby with a two-story mans, who created the Madeline waterfall is a marvel. See p. 123. books and painted the mural in the • Best Hotel Swim-Up Bar: Hotel bar, this romantic and charming bar QT, 125 W. 45th St. (& 212/354- features white-gloved service and 2323). New in 2005, this moderately tremendous cocktails conceived by priced addition to the Times Square master mixologist Audrey Saunders. hotel scene was a very welcome one. For more on Bemelmans, see p. 378. There is much to like about the Hotel • Best Hotel for a Romantic Tryst: QT, but I love the fact that it has a Hotel Elysée, 60 E. 54th St. (& 800/ swimming pool—in the lobby—with 535-9733 or 212/753-1066). This a swim-up bar. You can’t ask for much lovely old hotel, a favorite of mid- more in the middle of Manhattan. 20th-century writers and actors, is See p. 135.

15 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences in New York • Chanterelle, 2 Harrison St. (& 212/ by the sophisticated fare here. See 966-6960). You’ll be made to feel p. 218. special here, from the impeccable, • Aquavit, 65 E. 55th St. (& 212/307- personalized service in a simple but 7311). Though its new digs are not lovely room to the exquisitely pre- nearly as charming as its former town- pared food. Other restaurants try, but house setting, the service and the food this is how it’s supposed to be done. are as good as ever. See p. 197. See p. 161. • Big Wong King, 67 Mott St. (& 212/ • The River Café, 1 Water St., Brook- 964-0540). Come here for the lyn (& 718/522-5200). At the foot quintessential Chinatown experience. of the Brooklyn Bridge in Brooklyn, You’ll share tables with Chinese fami- there is no better dining view of Man- lies, order huge bowls of congee with hattan. Go at twilight as the lights of fried crullers, plates of stir-fried veg- downtown begin to flicker on: It’s a etables, and heaping platters of roast magical experience. Though the food pork and duck. I guarantee it will be at restaurants with views is usually not an unforgettable dining experience. very good, you won’t be disappointed See p. 166.

16 Best New Restaurants • BLT Fish, 21 W. 17th St. (& 212/ remarkable lobster roll, while upstairs, 691-8888). Chef Laurent Tourendel in the more formal dining room, you shows off his talent with fish. Down- can sample some of the freshest stairs is the “shack,” where you seafood in the city, prepared innova- can chow on raw oysters, clams, a tively and flawlessly. See p. 185. 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 11

BEST BITES FOR ALL APPETITES 11

• Mas, 39 Downing St. (& 212/255- • Maremma, 228 W. 10th St. & 212/ 1790). This cozy, romantic West 645-0200). Chef Cesare Casella, for- Village restaurant was created to repli- merly of Beppe, has put all his efforts cate the feel and flavors of French into Maremma and his hard work has farmhouse cooking. I can’t say if it paid off. This quirky restaurant com- succeeded, since I am not familiar bines cowboy cuisine with Tuscan fla- with French farmhouse cooking, but vors. It sounds preposterous, but it has definitely created an inviting under Casella’s direction, it works. place to dine on all levels. See p. 178. See p. 180.

17 Best Bites for All Appetites • Best for Breakfast: Good Enough to sandwiches named for celebrities Eat, 483 Amsterdam Ave. (& 212/ here—just top-notch Jewish classics. 496-0163). They’ve been lining up See p. 170. on Amsterdam Avenue on weekend • Best Burger: Burger Joint, at Le mornings for over 20 years to get a Parker Meridien hotel, 118 W. 57th taste of chef/owner Carrie Levin’s St. (& 212/708-7460). Who woulda bountiful home-cooked breakfasts. thunk that a fancy hotel like Le But why wait on line? You’re on vaca- Parker Meridien would be the home tion, go during the week. See p. 210. to a “joint” that serves great burgers • Best for Brunch: Norma’s, at Le at great prices? See p. 199. Parker Meridien hotel, 118 W. 57th • Best Pizza: Patsy’s Pizzeria, 2287 St. (& 212/708-7460). Though I am First Ave. (& 212/534-9783). This not a devotee of brunch (see box great East Harlem pizzeria has been “Breakfast, Not Brunch,” on p. 211), cranking out coal-oven pizza since I make an exception for Norma’s. Tra- 1932. You can also order by the slice ditional breakfast items are available, here, but only do so if the pie is fresh but skip them and go for creative out of the oven. See p. 195. interpretations like the asparagus- • Best Seafood: Oceana, 55 E. 54th St. and-seared-rock-lobster omelet. See (& 212/759-5941). You won’t believe p. 192. what chef Cornelius Gallagher can do • Best Dessert: Fiamma Osteria, 206 with fish. His culinary creations look Spring St. (& 212/653-0100). There so good on the plate that they are wor- are many impressive pastry chefs in thy of museum status. What’s really town, but few of them can top the remarkable is that the food tastes as remarkable Elizabeth Katz. Every- good as it looks. See p. 198. thing on Fiamma’s “Dolci” menu is • Best Steak: Frankie & Johnnie’s, 32 outstanding, but her torta (dark W. 37th St. (& 212/997-8940) and chocolate praline cake layered with 269 W. 45th St (& 212/997-9494). hazelnut brittle) and gianduja gelato Whether you choose the former (hazelnut-flavored chocolate gelato) speakeasy that is the original location are as close to perfection as you can in the Theater district or the newer get. See p. 171. branch located in the late actor John • Best Jewish Deli: Katz’s Deli- Barrymore’s former town house, catessen, 205 E. Houston St. (& 212/ your steak, particularly the house sir- 254-2246). This is the choice among loin, will remind you why Frankie & those who know their kreplach, Johnnie’s has been around since knishes, and pastrami. No cutesy 1926. See p. 190. 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE • Best Mutton Chop: Keens Steak- across the Brooklyn Bridge. Rich house, 72 W. 36th St. (& 212/947- homemade ice cream with a view of 3636). Of course, it might be the the Manhattan skyline, a tough com- only restaurant in New York that bination to beat. See p. 218. offers a mutton chop, but that’s not • Best Bagel: Absolute Bagels, 2788 the only reason to head to Keens. The Broadway (& 212/932-2052). other “chops” are first-rate and the They’re not huge like some bagels rooms—there are several—are like these days, but they are always hot museum pieces without a museum’s and cooked to perfection. See p. 188. stuffiness. See p. 191. • Best Soul Food: Charles’ Southern • Best for Families: Virgil’s Real Style Kitchen, 2841 Eighth Ave. BBQ, 152 W. 44th St. (& 212/921- (& 877/813-2920 or 212/926-4313). 9494). In kid-friendly Times Square, Not only does this tiny Harlem restau- Virgil’s, in a sense, is a theme restau- rant serve the best soul food in the city, rant, the theme being barbecue, but it offers the best buffet. For $9.95 on they do an excellent job of smoking weekdays and $12 on weekends, the their meats. It’s loud, colorful, and down-home offerings will tempt you has great options for children. See to make any number of visits to the p. 192. buffet line. See p. 216. • Best Cheap Meal: Gray’s Papaya, • Best New/Old Dining Room: 2090 Broadway (& 212/799-0243). Country, 90 Madison Ave. (& 212/ Though the $2.45 “recession spe- 889-7100). Designed by architect cial”—two hot dogs and a fruit David Rockwell, the upstairs restau- drink—is almost a $1 increase from rant in the recently renovated Carl- the previous recession, it’s still a bar- ton Hotel is a marvel with restored gain. But is it any good? Witness the mosaic tiles on the floor, dramatic lines out the door every day for chandeliers, nooks overlooking the lunch. See p. 164. hotel lobby, and most impressive a • Best Ice Cream: Brooklyn Ice gorgeous Tiffany skylight dome that Cream Factory, Fulton Ferry Landing had been hidden for years and was Pier, Brooklyn (& 718/246-3963). uncovered during the renovation. See The perfect reward after a brisk walk p. 198.

18 Best Shopping in New York • Best Store: Saks Fifth Avenue. Not with the heart of an independent. See as overwhelming as other department p. 315. stores, Saks is consistently good. And • Best Music Store: Tower Records. A don’t miss those window displays at huge selection and frequent sales Christmas. See p. 312. make this my personal favorite. See • Best Clothes Store: Barneys. This p. 334. store is the pinnacle, with prices to • Best Shopping Zone: Soho, NoHo, match. See p. 310. and NoLita. All three neighborhoods • Best Bookstore: Coliseum Books. are within easy walking distance of This book-lover’s paradise is a mini- one another and feature the newest, superstore (if there is such a thing) trendiest boutiques. See p. 302. 05_945528 ch01.qxp 8/2/06 8:07 PM Page 13

BEST CULTURE & NIGHTLIFE IN NEW YORK 13

19 Best Culture & Nightlife in New York • Best Performance Space: Carnegie obscure. The Merc is the best for Hall. You can find few greater per- hard-edged rock ’n’ roll. See p. 361. formance spaces in the world than this • Best Comedy Club: Gotham Com- one. Visually and acoustically brilliant, edy Club. Comfortable and sophisti- Carnegie Hall regularly attracts an cated, this is where the best come to amazing array of talent. See p. 352. hone their acts. See p. 368. • Best Free Cultural Event: Shake- • Best Pub: Ear Inn. Located in an speare in the Park. Imagine Shake- old hanger-on in chic SoHo, I hope speare performed by stars, under the it continues to survive amongst the stars, in Central Park. No wonder it lush lounges that surround it. See has become a New York institution. p. 369. See p. 354. • Best Dive Bar: Subway Inn. Sure, I • Best Children’s Theater: Paper Bag know you came to New York to go to Players. For children ages 4 to 9, this a dive bar. Enter the Subway Inn, and group performs in the winter and it’s as if you stepped into a 1940s film offers tales told in imaginative and noir—minus the cigarette smoke, of original ways. See p. 344. course. See p. 376. • Best Jazz Club: The Village Van- • Best Bar with a View: Rise Bar, in guard. The acoustics and sightlines the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park Hotel. aren’t great, but you can’t do better With views of Lady Liberty, New for consistent good-quality jazz. See York Harbor, and incredible sunsets, p. 364. this bar is worth seeking out even if • Best Rock Club: Mercury Lounge. you’re not staying here. See p. 372. This venue is intimate but not