Best of Florence & Tuscany escape

Southern Spain Essentials Indagare’s Sasha Feldman tours the southern region of Spain and shares tips on how to best enjoy the region.

fter a morning tour of in the country. Every small daily exchanges and an ability Seville’s Alcazar, I wan- decision I made during my to develop genuine rapport Adered the city’s narrow, stay in southern Spain set off a with those around them. winding streets in search of chain of events that cumula- Visitors quickly realize that the perfect tapas lunch. I was tively created a unique, holistic the Andalusian culture, largely committed to finding the most experience. insulated from the outside authentic restaurant. I ended What makes the south of world, is well worth explor- up at Indagare favorite La Spain so fantastic is that every ing. If southern Spain fails to Moneda (Calle Almirantazgo turn down a calle, every stop in offer the five-star experience 4; 34-954-22-36-42), where a remote mountain town or at of the French Riviera or the I sat next to some Spanish a countryside hacienda, every Amalfi Coast, that is a mark of gentlemen enjoying wines meal next to a local leads to its authenticity and local flair. from their vineyard in Rioja. an interaction, suggestion or For that reason, a trip to this It was not long before we were invitation that both deepens region requires precision and sampling vintages together, and broadens your experience. an acute attention to detail. exchanging life stories and Andalusians are sociable and Here are eight tips to help plan brainstorming on how I should congenial. They share both a unforgettable journeys and get

spend the rest of my time love of life that informs their the most from your visit. corral del reY

12 Clockwise from left: The rooftop at Corral del Rey; a bedroom and living room at Hacienda de San Rafael; the entrance to Trasierra

1. Choose your destination reports. (Hint: Blancos. But choose those that restaurants wisely some of the most terrific spots are suited to your tastes and It is an essential part of the are unassuming, with one sensibility. Is attending a bull- Spanish lifestyle to gather English-speaking waiter who fight appropriate for you and with friends and family in is brought over to assist for- your family? Would you prefer the late afternoons and even eigners with menu selections.) the experience offered by a later evenings to socialize over You can also contact Indagare Flamenco show or a Flamenco sherry and tapas in bodeguitas. for tailor-made suggestions. bar? (The latter is much less The streets of Andalusia are touristed and performances lined with tapas spots, with the 2. Do as the locals do, regularly take place well past authentic nearly indistinguish- wherever possible midnight.) able from the tourist traps, Truly experiencing southern and restaurants everywhere Spain means taking part in 3. Know when to spend a offer delicious slow-cooked local recreations, from futbol night in the countryside meats and fresh seafood in a matches to Flamenco, from One of the wonderful things buzzy atmosphere. To discover attending Spanish guitar about Andalusia is its wealth those with the right ambiance concerts to spending an af- of charming estates. Whether

HacIenda de san rafael; TrasIerra HacIenda de san rafael; and crowd, refer to Indagare’s ternoon in one of the Pueblos you rent a villa in the wild

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Sierras or stay for a few nights whether this is better achieved forgoing the high-end tourist at a family-owned hacienda, by renting a pied-à-terre or properties for boutique ones the countryside offers active checking in to a hotel. The an- like Corral del Rey (corraldel- adventures and sweeping swer may depend on the area. rey.com). Located farther from vistas. Ride on horseback Surprisingly, the hotel option the main attractions, they through sunflower-filled fields is ideal in some of Andalusia’s inspire guests to wander the at a property like Hacienda de smaller, UNESCO World Heri- streets, discovering local spots. San Rafael (haciendadesanra- tage Sites, like Cordoba and fael.com), located on an 18th- Granada. These cities, which 5. Transform your trans- century olive-growing estate are lush, tropical and more fers into road trips tucked between Seville and Mediterranean, are also some Southern Spain is relatively Marbella. Or stay at a beauti- of the most touristed, because small geographically, and ful guesthouse like Trasierra of their palaces, mosques and trains run regularly through (trasierra.eu), a stylish private cathedrals. Staying in a luxury its towns and cities. In a villa in a beautiful landscape. property like the Palacio couple of hours or less, you can del Bailio (hospes.com), in reach Seville from Madrid or 4. Know when to live like Cordoba, or the Palacio de Granada from Cordoba. Driv- a local and when to enlist Los Patos (hospes.com), in ing, however, allows for fun the support of a hotel Granada, in no way detracts excursions including stops in If your goal is to experience from the experience. When places like the beautiful Pueb- an authentic local way of life, visiting larger metropolises, los Blancos, “white towns,”

the question then becomes like Seville, you might consider of the region. These include fInca corTesIn corral del reY; ToUrIsT offIce of sPaIn;

14 Clockwise from top left: a lounge at Finca Cortesin; the Alhambra; a terrace at Trasierra; the entrance to Hacienda de San Rafael; a Seville street scene

full days of guided touring, Andalusia is ideal for wander- ing. Enlist a private guide to tour historical sites in the early morning or late afternoon, but leave plenty of free time to explore on your own. Lunches should be long and laid back, not condensed into quick bites between stops. Dine as the locals do, sharing multiple rounds of tapas, socializing with strangers around outdoor tables, people watch and let time pass slowly.

7. Dress to impress. Spaniards take great pride in donning stylish attire whether Ronda, perched on the edge of a perfect home base for day they’re on the way to a big a canyon, the small Monte- trips to places like Cordoba night out or running a quick jaque, with panoramic views or Granada. If you want to errand. Andalusia’s slow pace, of the Sierras, and Setenil de see both those cities, however, walkable cities, fantastic las Bodegas, built into the you should probably remain weather and sophisticated walls of a river gorge. a night or two in Granada, to populace make planning your Navigating winding roads in fully savor its rich Moorish outfits a part of the experience. warm, sunny weather, you will architecture, and take a day Perusing stores for pieces by pass through verdant country- trip to Cordoba from here. great Spanish designers that side, including lush vineyards The coastal town of Marbella you can walk out wearing and rolling farmland. Continu- is off the general tourist track makes shopping all the more ing over the Sierra Mountains and so requires a stopover. fun. Members can contact to the Costa del Sol, you will Finish your itinerary with a Indagare’s bookings team to come upon scenic landscapes few nights at one of the coastal arrange specialized shopping that offer incredible photo- area’s five-star properties, like guides and exclusive fashion graphic opportunities. Finca Cortesin. experiences throughout Spain.

6. Know which cities are 7. Sometimes you don’t Visit www.indagare.com to read best for day trips. need a guide… Indagare’s full destination reports on Seville, with its undeniable Unlike some European Seville, Marbella and everywhere in between. Members can contact the energy and charm, merits a destinations, which can be Bookings Team (212-988-2611) for assistance planning a trip. TrasIerra few nights’ stay and makes fully appreciated only through

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