tastingcorner

The Tapas Effect

Dining Out Fuels a Boom in Spanish and tapas go hand in hand at Txikito in New York City (left); Sipping on is BY jean k. reilly crucial to the Boqueria experience in NYC

ver the last 10 years, the inspiration in the Spanish culinary U.S. has seen a striking movement and introducing more surge in sales of Spanish little-known Spanish wines to their lists as a result.” wines. While countries such grape varieties Pia Mara Finkell, associate VP at Oas Australia have been on a boom-bust CRT/tanaka and media director for the cycle, has seen a steady rise in often make Vibrant Rioja campaign, concurs with demand. According to the Department the impact tapas has had on Spanish of Commerce, Spanish wines have ideal wine sales. In 2010, Rioja wine sales in enjoyed an increase of 158% in value companions the U.S. rose 33% from the previous since 2000 and an even more impressive year. “Tapas (or pintxos as locals would increase of 175% by volume over the call it) is as intrinsic to Riojan culture period. Many in the industry believe faced as marketers was a relatively as its wines,” she says. “With the wildfire the driver behind these impressive low level of awareness of Spain’s rich rise in popularity of tapas-style dining gains has been an increasing interest culinary traditions. Today, the Spanish across the U.S., it is only natural that in Spanish . The prominence food revolution driven by star chefs Americans are also falling in love with of Michelin 3-star in Spain such as Jose Andres and Ferran Adrià the wines from Spain’s most famous wine and the growing interest in molecular of El Bulli has fueled a renaissance in region.” However, the explosive increase gastronomy they have spawned may Spanish in the U.S. which has in the number of tapas bars around the have fanned the flame. had tremendous, positive implications country is more often credited with According to Helen Gregory, partner on the discovery of Spanish wines.” driving the escalating demand. With its at Gregory White PR, a New York- Gregory continues: “Our Ribera all-Spanish lists that reach into every based marketing agency that represents campaign recently launched a Spanish corner of the country and extensive by- leading Spanish food and wine series with instructions on pairing the-glass offerings, these fantastically companies, “Tapas has become a staple Ribera del Duero wines with classic popular establishments are the perfect of the American dining experience—10 ; the response has been environments for consumers to explore years ago a tapas was still a novelty, incredible. We’re working with chefs new wines in a category that is often and one of the great challenges we around the country who are finding overlooked by traditional restaurants. tastingcorner

At ZuZu in Napa, CA (right); Tapas has helped make Rioja (bottom) a household name

The Tapas Experience erto unknown regions fashioned from Alexandra Raij, co-owner of El Quinto obscure grape varieties are appearing Pino and Txikito tapas bars in NYC, be- with increasing frequency. Often these lieves that it is the everyday allure of the wines are the result of a renewed interest tapas experience that has propelled in- in high quality indigenous grape variet- terest in Spanish wine. “In my opinion ies that were once overlooked because of it isn’t tapas bars as such but good tapas low yields or other viticultural challenges. that has facilitated the introduction and These bottlings have proven to be very embrace of good Spanish and Basque intriguing to the gatekeepers—and of- wines. I think the tapas tradition pro- ten very valuable food pairing partners. poses that food and wine should be en- Wiseheart, for instance, has found the joyed together daily, not just on special Monje Tradicional from Tenerife in the occasions,” she says. Hence, the growing to be very useful in his res- retail sales of Spanish wine that has ac- taurant. He points out, “You have a lot of companied the on-premise boom. interesting wines coming out of those is- Despite its often eclectic lists, tapas lands from indigenous grapes. The wines bars seem to have less of an intimidation are medium-to light-bodied because of factor for consumers, promoting a more the volcanic soil but full of flavor. They personal interaction with wine choices. go really well with or charcuterie And, of course the easy interaction be- or anything that’s a bit salty.” tween bartender and customer does much to promote a dialogue about wine Distribution Overhaul and put the customer at ease. Zack Bezu- Many buyers also point to sweeping nartea, beverage director for the Boque- changes in the distribution of Spanish ria tapas bars in NYC, notes, “Consum- wines as a prime driver of the trend. ers are intimidated by wines they don’t “When I started, there were two or three know. If they go to a with an Spanish distributors that consolidated expensive international wine list, they’ll into one. Now I think there are 12,” says go with what’s safe. A tapas bar is an at- Mick Salyer, owner of ZuZu Tapas & it’s the value that will make them seek mosphere that’s conducive to a conver- Paella in Napa, CA. Raij agrees, noting it out again in a retail store: “As more sation with your server or bartender. If the change in the distributor profile: “I and more tapas places open and concen- you see something you don’t recognize, think a few importers dominated the trate on Spanish wines, more and more it can be introduced in a more casual, market but now little distributors and Americans are becoming aware of them fun way because it’s a casual, fun atmo- importers are splintering off and are and what a value they are compared to sphere to begin with.” seeking out amazing values and biody- wines from France and .” namic, organic wines and these are no Spain’s position as a top source for Changing Product Mix longer long shot wines for them. These quality wines at reasonable prices isn’t While the sales increase in Spanish wines are individuals who are well-traveled entirely assured, however. Many buyers has been impressive, even more dramatic and can tell a story about the landscape commented that recent price increases is the much greater breadth of wines and the winemaker.” On-premise buyers have given them pause. “I am moving being offered; at one point, it was only are well known for having a soft spot for much more into Portuguese; they are Spain’s established wine regions that smaller distributors so their success in the price point that Spanish wines were interested consumers. “Before, it was the artisanally-sensitive tapas arena is when I started,” shares Salyer. “They are difficult to get anyone to buy anything no surprise. cutting into the Spanish market; they but a Rioja. Over the years, people are are 10 years behind Spain in terms of becoming more sophisticated and more Value and the Next Frontier the quality improvements but they go open to trying a lot of things,” shares Carl While it may be the friendly tapas baris- really well with the food here.” Are Por- Wiseheart, GM and beverage director of ta who introduces consumers to a new tuguese table wines the ‘next big thing’? Mercat in NYC. Now, wines from hith- Spanish wine, Wiseheart points out that Stay tuned. n