The West Country East devon Treasures This is the Devon of quiet rolling countryside, where, away from the main roads, the 21st century seems mercifully distant. It is also a countryside of excellent though scattered churches, each with its own character, but each also having a ‘Devon’ feel. Features in common in several of them are beautiful and unspoiled rood screens showing Devon church art and craftsmanship at its best.

Ottery St Mary St Mary though it stands on a churchyard mound the Lady Chapel. The bosses in the in the centre of the little town, the church are outstanding, depicting a huge Why visit: Cathedral-like splendour church does not overpower it. This is range of subjects and all worth looking at. Where: The College, near the library, partly because the churchyard is large The Dorset Aisle was added to the EX11 1DJ and the church is set away from the church in about 1520. It has superb fan immediate buildings, and partly because vaulting with extraordinary pendants. The This is far and away the grandest church the church is rather low. It has two arcade capitals here are also remarkable, in east Devon, and one of England’s towers, as does Exeter Cathedral. taking many shapes and forms. outstanding parish churches. Inside, the church is full of riches, but Monuments include those of Sir Otho The site on which it stands had been opinion is divided on the colour scheme Grandisson (brother of the Bishop) and part of a manor belonging to Rouen that was adopted for much of the his wife, from 1359, shown under ornate Cathedral in Normandy since the building in 1977. Some think the colours canopies covered with shields. There is a 11th century. In 1335 it was bought by inappropriate; others that they bring an remarkable clock with a brightly painted Bishop Grandisson of Exeter, who almost echo of medieval vibrancy to the church. wooden face from Grandisson’s time in entirely rebuilt the church that had stood Bishop Grandisson’s work can be seen the church, and a wooden eagle lectern here, using Exeter Cathedral as a model everywhere, and the bishop himself can of the same date that is one of only a for much of the architecture. Even be seen depicted on one of the bosses in very few of its kind in England.

24 east devon treasures

Crediton Holy Cross Plymtree St John the Baptist Why visit: Impressive town church Where: Church Lane, off East Street, Why visit: Rood screen EX17 2AH Where: Opposite junction of Green End Lane, EX15 2JU Built of red sandstone, this is one of the finest town churches in Devon. It has an Most of the exterior of St John’s dates illustrious history, having been the site of from the 14th and 15th centuries. It is a a minster established in 739, and later a handsome church but it is the internal cathedral until 1050, when the See was fittings that make it so interesting. Of moved to Exeter. After that it became a these, the rood screen is the highlight. It collegiate institution and remained so was probably made in the 1470s and has until the Dissolution, at which time the a fan-vaulted top. The figures on the parish bought the church for £200. panels retain much of their original Essentially it is a 12th-century colour and include St Catherine, St John cruciform building that was extensively the Baptist and the Adoration of the remodelled in the 14th and 15th Magi. In total there are 34 painted panels. centuries. It has a magnificent clerestory, The church also has wagon roofs, a rarity in Devon churches. Among excellent bench-ends, 17th-century altar features of interest are a number of rails and an 18th-century font. monuments, including that of Sir John Sully and his wife of 1387; Sir William Tiverton St Peter Periam of 1604; and John Tuckfield of 1630. The latter is particularly impressive, Why visit: Reminders of wealth from wool with black columns and a life-sized church, and one truly unique item: a Where: St Peter Street, by the river, seated figure of his wife, Elizabeth. Golgotha. This consists of two huge, dark EX16 6RP masses of oak, carved with skulls, bones Cullompton St Andrew and rocks. It would once have formed the The tall, red sandstone tower of St Peter’s base of the Crucifixion that stood above is an outstanding part of Tiverton’s Why visit: Wonderful roof and outstanding the rood screen. It is the only one of its townscape. It is a large church dating screen kind to survive. from the 15th century, with a south Where: In Church Street, off Cullompton’s porch and south chapel added in 1517 main street, EX15 1JU Kentisbeare St Mary by John Greenway, whose riches came from the wool trade. There are reminders St Andrew’s is all of a piece, built of red Why visit: Rood screen; 17th-century of the source of his wealth everywhere sandstone in the 15th and 16th centuries. gallery on the southern part, with carvings of Its tower is handsome, with stepped Where: On the junction of Priest Hill and woolpacks, ships, figures and horses. buttresses rising to a battlemented Fore Street, EX15 2AD The memorial to Greenway and his parapet, and stone figures and a wife Alice is inside the church, in the prominent clock on the west side. The chequered tower of St Mary’s is aisle that he built. The interior of the church is striking and unlike any other in Devon. dominated by an extraordinary wooden It is built from red sandstone and white Opposite page: The grandeur of Ottery barrel-vaulted roof, which stretches the Beer stone and dates from the 14th St Mary. entire length of the building. It is painted century. Most of the rest of the church This page: Cullompton’s colourful screen. in blues, crimsons and golds, which bring dates from a century or so later. out the intricate patterns of the timbers The interior contains much of interest. as they intersect. As wonderful, and as At the west end is a handsome gallery Also in the area colourful, is the original wooden screen dated 1632, while stretching across the that spans the width of the church. nave and south aisle is a rood screen that Honiton St Michael As if all this were not enough, the is one of the best of its kind in Devon. It Why visit: Memorials; view from church has chapels and aisles containing carries the arms of John Whiting, a churchyard superb craftsmanship. The Lane Aisle has merchant venturer who built the south exuberant fan vaulting and stonework, aisle and who is buried there. He died in Branscombe St Winifred while the Moore Chapel may be more 1529 and is buried here with his wife, Why visit: Norman church packed restrained but is also beautiful. There are Anne. Also buried here is Mary Wotton, with interest figures and carvings everywhere in the great-aunt to Lady Jane Grey.

25