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BLACK’S GUIDE TO DEVONSHIRE National Library of Scotland n mi in in mu i *8000444887*

EXETER CATHEDRAL.—> BLACK’S GUIDE TO

DEVONSHIRE

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

STfotlfti) (Station

EDINBURGH ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK MDCCCLXXXVI The Editor will be glad to receive any notes or corrections from Tourists using this Guide-book, Communications to be addressed to the Publishers, CONTENTS. PAQB General Description vii Seaton and Sidmodth Section 1 From to Junction. From to Sidmouth. The Axe and , and vicinity. Section 19 From to . From Bampton to . Section 67 From Exeter, , Teignmouth, Torquay, to Dartmouth. Section 93 From the southern verge of to the sea— The Tavy and Tamar rivers—Plymouth, Kings- bridge, to Launceston, etc. Dartmoor Section 139 Dartmoor with its approaches, , , , Moreton Hampstead, and Ashburton. North Section 163 From , , , , to Hartland. Index 203

GENERAL DESCRIPTION. Forming one of the south-western counties of , Devon is the third in extent in the country, being exceeded only by York and Lincoln. According to the latest survey, it contains 1,655,161 acres or 2586 square miles. In its general aspect nearly the whole area of Devon- shire is uneven and hilly. It contains the highest land in England, south of the Peak of ; and the scenery, much varied, is in most parts of the county very striking and picturesque. One of its principal feat- ures is the granitic district of Dartmoor, so named from the principal river which rises on it, the Dart, and occupy- ing an area of about 130,000 acres. This great plateau, the mean height of which is about 1500 feet, rises in the southern division of the county, and is more or less con- spicuous from all the lower tracts. It is the highest and easternmost in a broken chain of granite elevations, which extends to the Scilly Islands. Its grand wastes contrast finely with the wild but wooded region which immediately surrounds the granite, and with the richly-cultivated country lying beyond. It is this rich country which has given Devonshire the name of the garden of England. The Viii GENERAL DESCRIPTION. most noticeable districts are the so-called Yale of Exeter, covering an area of about 200 square miles, and including the meadows which surround , the richest in the county ; and the , the extent of which is not very clearly defined, but which covers the deep projection between the mouths of the Dart and the Yealm. Another very picturesque division extends eastward of Exeter as far as the Dorsetshire border. The north and south coasts of the county differ much in character and climate, the north being by far the more bracing. Both have grand cliff and rock scenery, unsurpassed by any in England or Wales; and as a rule the country immediately inland is of great beauty. The general verdure of Devonshire, and its broken, hilly character, are the features which everywhere most strongly assert themselves. Along the coasts both on the south and north numerous inlets afford secure shelter from the sea, and have been planted with many pleasant watering-places and health resorts. The geological formations of Devonshire are of course the main cause of the general appearance of the county. Dartmoor is a granite region. By far the greater part of central Devon is occupied by Carboniferous rocks, consist- ing chiefly of sandstones, often siliceous, and of slates. All this formation has been subjected to great disturbances, and the strata (as may be seen on every part of the coast between Boscastle and the mouth of the Taw), are twisted in a manner which defies description, the result being some very extraordinary and picturesque cliff scenery. True coal does not exist, but anthracite occurs near Bideford. These rocks are also associated with trappean and other ashes, which bear a striking analogy to those of existing volcanoes. Underlying the Carbonaceous deposits are the GENERAL DESCRIPTION. ix graywacke or Devonian rocks, forming the extreme north of the county, and a great part of the South Hams. They continue west of Plymouth, and cover the greater part of . The third great formation is the New Red, which occupies much of the eastern portion of the county, extends along the coast from Sidmouth to Tor Bay, and sends out a long spur westward into the Carhoniferous dis- trict. The upper beds of the series consist principally of marls, the middle of sandstones, and the lower of breccias or coarse conglomerates, coloured red by peroxide of iron. At or near the junction of the Carboniferous and New Red formations, from Washfield, near Tiverton on the N. to Haldon on the S., occur numerous masses of igneous rock, feldspathic traps. Greensand strata cap the Black- down Hills and the heights near Axminster, Seaton, and Sidmouth, and, with beds of chalk, occupy a depres- sion in the coast at Beer (near the eastern border of Devon- shire), coming down to the level of the sea at Beer Head. A very interesting and remarkable Tertiary deposit, be- longing to the Lower Miocene period, occurs at Bovey Tracy, below the eastern escarpment of Dartmoor. It consists of beds of lignite, clay, and sand, with an aggre- gate thickness of more than 100 feet. In the lignites at least 50 species of plants have been found, all indicating a sub-tropical climate ; hut the greater part of the lignite beds is formed by fragments of an enormous coniferous tree, belonging to the genus Sequoia, the only living species of which are to be found in California. Great lumps of inspissated resin occur occasionally. Fine potters’ clay occurs above this “ head ” of coarse clay and sand, and -has been turned to account The lignite called “ Bovey coal ” bums with a disagreeable smell, and is not much used. GENERAL DESCRIPTION. The ossiferous caverns of Devonshire are famous in geo. logical history. The most important is Kent’s Hole, near Torquay, which has been carefully explored, and appears to have been frequented by bears, hyaenas, and, at last, by primitive man. There are others at , at Chud- leigh, and at Oreston, near Plymouth. The climate varies greatly in different parts of the county, but everywhere it is more humid than that of the eastern or south-eastern parts of England. Both Devon and Cornwall have a mean annual about 1'5° above that of the midland counties ; but in the summer they are cooler than the whole range of country from the south coast to the 53° of lat. The air of the Dartmoor highlands is sharp and bracing. Mists are frequent, and snow often lies long. On the south coast frost is little known, and many half hardy plants, such as hydrangeas, myrtles, geraniums, and heliotropes, live through the winter without protection. The climate of Sidmouth, Teignmouth, Torquay, and other watering-places on this coast, is very equable, and the mean temperature of the winter months is about 47°. The N. coast, exposed to the storms and of the Atlantic, is far more bracing ; although there also, in the more sheltered nooks (as at ), myrtles of great size and age flower freely, and produce their annual crop of berries. In its history the county has some special interest. The British tribes inhabiting this western portion of the island were called by Ptolemy ; and , or Dammonia, the Latinized name of a kingdom which long remained after the arrival and early conquests of the west Saxons, seems to be identical with the Cymric Dyfnaint, which survives in the present Devon. GENERAL DESCRIPTION. Xl The Saxon settlers, as they advanced into the country, called themselves Defnas, i.e. men of Devon or Dyfnaint, thus adopting the British name, and indicating the broad difference between their settlements in such a district as Devon, where British influence so long survived, and where they came as Christians, and those in southern or eastern England, where the Britons were either expelled or exter- minated. In Devonshire the Christian Britons became subjects of the Christian Saxons. Mr. Freeman says, “ The Celtic element can he traced from the Somersetshire Axe, the last heathen frontier, to the extremities of Cornwall, of course increasing in amount as we reach the lands which were more recently conquered, and therefore less perfectly Teutonized. Devonshire is less Celtic than Cornwall, and Somersetshire is less Celtic than Devonshire ; but not one of the three counties can be called a pure Teutonic land, like Kent or Norfolk.” Celtic names are accordingly found in various parts of Devonshire, and especially on Dartmoor, side by side with those which are truly Saxon. For some time after the landing of William I. and the battle of Hastings, the western counties remained undis- turbed. In the spring of 1068 Exeter was besieged and taken by the Conqueror, who built a castle there, which was besieged in 1137 by Stephen for three months. In 1469 Exeter, which was Lancastrian, was besieged for twelve days by the Yorkists, but held out successfully; and in 1497 the city was again besieged by Perkin War- beck. A more important siege occurred in 1549, when the western counties rose in defence of what was called the “ old religion.” The golden age of Devonshire is, however, that of Elizabeth. Drake, Hawkins, Raleigh, and the GENERAL DESCRIPTION. Gilberts, besides a host of others, were all of Devonshire ; and the history of the county at that time is bound up with the story of its harbours and seaside towns, and is in close connection with the general . In primeval antiquities Devonshire is not so rich as Cornwall; but Dartmoor abounds in remains of the highest interest, the most peculiar of which are the long parallel alignments of upright stones, which, on a small scale, re- semble those of Camac in Brittany. Of the so-called sacred circles the best examples are the “ Longstones ” on Scorhill Down, and the “ Grey Wethers” under Sittaford Tor. By far the finest cromlech is the “ Spinster’s Rock ” at , a three-pillared cromlech, which may well be compared with those of Cornwall. There are numerous maenhirs or single upright stones ; a large dol- men or holed stone lies in the bed of the Teign, near the Scorhill circle; and rock basins occur on the summit of nearly every tor on Dartmoor (the largest are on Kestor and on Heitor, above the Teign). It is, however, toler- ably evident that these have been produced by the gradual disintegration of the granite, and that the dolmen in the Teign is due to the action of the river. Clusters of hut foundations—circular, and formed of rude granite blocks —are frequent; the best example of such a primitive village is at Batworthy, near Chagford : the type resembles that of East Cornwall. Walled enclosures, or pounds, occur in many places ; is the most remarkable. Trackways, or boundary lines, run across Dartmoor in many directions; and the rude bridges formed of great slabs of granite, deserve notice. All these remains are on Dartmoor. Scattered over the county are numerous large hill castles and camps,—all earthworks, and all apparently GENERAL DESCRIPTION. xiii of the British period. Homan relics have been found from time to time at Exeter (Isca Damnoniorum), the only large Roman station in the county. The Churches are for the most part of the Perpendicular period, dating from the middle of the 14th to the end of the 15th century. is of course an ex- ception, the whole (except the Norman towers) being very beautiful decorated work. The special features of Devon- shire churches, however, are the richly-carved pulpits and chancel screens of wood, in which this county exceeded every other in England, with the exception of Norfolk and Suffolk. The designs are rich and varied, and the skill displayed often very great. Granite crosses are fre- quent, the finest and earliest being that of Coplestone, near Crediton. Monastic remains are scanty; the principal fragments are those at Tor, Buckfast, Tavistock, and Buck- land abbeys. Among domestic buildings the houses of Wear Gifford (15th century), Bradley (15th century), (15th), Bradfield (Elizabethan), and (Elizabethan), deserve notice. The ruined castles of Okehampton (Edward I.), Exeter (with vast British earthworks), (Henry III., and with ruins of a large Tudor mansion), (Henry III.), and Compton (early 15 th century), are all interesting and picturesque. The episcopal see for Devonshire was at first established at Crediton, in 909. The ancient Comish see, which had existed during the British independence of Cornwall, was afterwards united to that of Crediton ; and in 1050 the place of the united sees was removed by the Confessor from Crediton to Exeter. There was no further change until 1876, when the Cornish see was again separated xiv GENERAL DESCRIPTION. from that of Devonshire, and the place of it fixed at . The is now therefore confined to Devon- shire. The population of the county, according to the final Report of the Census of 1881, amounted to 603,595 persons, 285,340 being males and 318,255 females. The following Table gives the population of the three divisions of the county in 1871 and in 1881, with the respective density per square mile.

Devonshire is represented in the House of Commons by 17 members, viz. 6 from the county (2 each from the East, North, and South divisions), and 11 from the (2 each from Exeter, Plymouth, Devonport, Tiverton, and Barnstaple, and 1 from Tavistock).

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' SEATON AND SIDMOUTH SECTION.

This section includes that part of the county which lies between the L. & S.-W. Railway from Axminster to Sidmouth Junction and the coast of the from Lyme Regis to Sidmouth, with the addi- tion of such places on the north side of the railway as are most conveniently visited from the various stations upon the line. The most picturesque parts of this district are,—the course of the Axe, the neigh- bourhood of Honiton, and the sea coast. SEATON AND SIDMOUTH SECTION.

AXMINSTER to SEATON. The and South-Western Railway enters Devon- shire about 2 miles short of Axminster, and the best scenery on the whole line between London and Exeter is that which lies between the county boundary and Honiton. The valley of the Axe, which the railway follows for several miles on both sides of Axminster, is remarkable for its verdure, for the tortuous course of its river, and for the rich and graceful grouping of the hills which flank it. Those in the immediate neighbourhood of Axminster afford excellent views of it.

AXMINSTER. : The George and The Three Cups. 144 miles from London. The town of Axminster occupies a pleasant situation on the south side of the railway. Its interest to the tourist is chiefly historical. It was originally a British settle- ment, afterwards occupied by the Saxons ; and a castle was built here in 916 on the site of the present market- place. During the Civil war Axminster was seized upon by the (in 1644), and suffered severely from fire. William III. remained here a few days, in 1689, on his progress to London, and resided at the Dolphin, formerly the residence of the Yonge family. AXMIXSTEK. The Church or , dedicated to St Mary, is partly an Early English building, but its nave and part of its chancel are Decorated, its north aisle Perpendicular, and its south aisle Modem. The porch at the east end of the south aisle is Norman. An ancient circular font, three sedilia, and an arched piscina of good workmanship, an oaken pulpit finely carved, date 1633, and a Saxon door- way at the east end of the south aisle, will repay examina- tion. The memorials are numerous, and among them are some defaced and nameless effigies. Leland supports a local tradition about Athelstan by reporting the church to have been “ famose by the sepultures of many noble Danes slain in King Athelstane’s time, at a battle on Branesdowne thirby, and by the sepultures likewise of sum Saxon Lords slain in the same field.” The famous carpet manufactories, established by Whitley in 1755, were removed half a century ago. Objects of Interest near Axminster.—Nearly a mile from Axminster, and a little way off the. Seaton Road, are some remains in an orchard of the Cistercian of Newenham, founded by Reginald de Mohun in 1246. The east window of the chapel and some Early English arches are all that iconoclasts have spared. Two miles further on the same road is Ashe House, the birthplace of the famous Duke of Marlborough, a low plain building with mullioned windows, pleasantly placed on the eastern slope of the Axe Yalley. It is now a farmhouse. At , 1 mile farther, there is a British Camp. Thence the tourist may cross the Axe to Colyton Station (2 m.), and take train either back to Axminster or on to Seaton. BEATON AND SIDMOUTH SECTION. Of Shuts, 1 mile from Seaton Junction, the ancient seat of the Bonvilles, but purchased by the Pole family in 1557, only a Tudor gateway, shrouded in ivy, ferns, and mosses, remains. The modern mansion, built in 1787, and now occupied by Sir Wm. Ed. Pole, Bart., com- mands a fine prospect both of sea and land. The Chukch of Shute, a picturesque building, partly Decorated and partly Perpendicular, contains some interesting memorials of the Pole family. A huge, many-branched yew tree is the glory of the quiet churchyard. Upon the hill above the village stands an old weather-beaten signal-house, well worth a visit from the curious wayfarer. Ford Abbey, now converted into a dwelling-house, is 7 miles N.E. of Axminster, and 2 miles .from Chard Junction, on the main South-Western line, in an outlying comer of the county. It was founded in 1136. The present buildings display various styles of architecture, ranging from the Transition Norman to the classicalities of Inigo Jones, and are remarkable for their incon- gruity. AXMINSTER TO SEATON. The Seaton branch leaves the main line at Seaton Junc- tion, 3 miles beyond Axminster. By it we reach Colyton (5 miles; Inns: Castle and Commercial), a small town, which boasts of a stately Perpendicular Church, whose octagonal tower is conspicuous from the hill-sides around. The ground plan is cruciform ; the south transept has a stone screen ; a fine altar-tomb commemorates the beautiful Margaret Courtenay, daughter of the Earl of Devonshire, by the princess Katherine SEATON. (daughter of Edward IV.) The Vicarage is an old Tudor house, built in 1524. A mile beyond Colyton the line passes the hamlet of , beyond which it skirts the western side of the Axe estuary to its terminus at Seaton. Half way between Colyford and Seaton the village of (Inn : The King’s Head) is passed on the opposite side of the estuary. It is a fishing village, with an old Church, which, among much later work, retains a good Norman doorway and a moulded arch. The hill behind it, Hawksdown, is crowned by a Roman Camp, which commanded the mouth of the river and the ocean waters beyond. SEATON (Hotels: Royal Clarence, Pole Arm, Hon) has of late years attained to some celebrity as a watering- place. It lies about J of a mile from the station on the edge of the hills which sink to the Axe estuary, and on the curve of the shore line between White Cliff and Haven Cliff. The town consists mainly of one street running inland, but it has a pleasant little esplanade along the old bar of the Axe, and very good sands for promenad- ing and bathing purposes. It is within 5 hours of London. Excursions from Seaton.—The .various places of interest on the road or rail northwards to Axminster have already been described. Eastwards and westwards inter- esting walks or drives may be taken to Lyme Regis and Beer, and Sidmouth, respectively. To Lyme Regis, m.—The road crosses the Axe SEATON SIDMOUTH SECTION. estuary close to the station, and proceeds through Ax- mouth to the farmhouse of Dowlands (3| m.) Near here is the famous landslip of 1839, whereby nearly a mile of the coast sank from 100 to 200 feet. Beyond Dowlands we pass Rousdown, the fine modern mansion of Sir H. Peek, and 2^ m. further, descend to the pleasant town of Lyme Regis (Hotels: Golden Lion, Three Cups), which lies in Dorsetshire, 1 mile beyond the confines of Devonshire. There is an omnibus service between Lyme Regis and Axminster. Pedestrians may follow the line of the cliff for most of the way between Seaton and Lyme. A path strikes out of the road a few yards beyond the bridge over the Axe, and, rapidly climbing Haven Cliff, passes thence be- hind Culverhole Point, a little beyond which the scene of the landslip is reached. Thence it is best to make for the farmhouse of Dowlands, and to proceed for a mile or two along the road until another chance occurs of reaching the cliff by a lane to the right, after which a track continues along the edge until it joins the road again at the top of the hill above Lyme. The chalk and greensand of the upper cliff has to a great extent slipped away from the harder lias below, and the result is a tangled, broken wilderness of grass, brushwood, and other vegetation, as beautiful as it is wild. To Beer, l| m.; Branscombe, 4| m.; Sidmouth, 9 m. —This is a very pleasant drive, but beyond Beer the number of little combes opening on to the sea, and separated from each other by hills several hundred feet in height, make it of a very up-and-down character. As far as Beer the road first climbs the cliff, and then winds away behind it. The village of Beer consists of one long SEATON. street dropping seawards. It has a large new church and several inns. Nearly a mile west of the village is an underground limestone quarry, entered from the road. The opening is through a flat-topped ferny arch on the left of the road, and the passage extends for 500 yards, with numberless ramifications, into the different workings. The best part is the entrance. The coast trends southwards from the village to Beer Head (1 m.), the most important promontory between Lyme Regis and the mouth of the Exe. For Branscombe our road strikes inland, and then descends seawards into the beautiful valley in which is situate the village, a collection of two or three groups of houses, with two small inns. The church of Branscombe, which occupies a position in the western part of the village, is an ancient one, with a massive tower, standing upon gently-rising ground at some distance from the shore. It was near this point that Telford, the great engineer, proposed to commence a ship-, which, terminating in Bridg- water Bay, should unite the and British Channels. Among the fossils found in the neighbourhood are caput medusae, basalti-formis, pecten, terebratulae, and pentacri- nites. Beyond Branscombe our road again ascends, and, after doubling another combe, passes to the right of Regis—not to be confused with the more important town of Salcombe at the extreme south of the county. This was the last town in Devon to surrender to the Parliamentarians. It yielded in 1646. The Church has a Norman tower, and an Early English chancel. Between and Sidmouth we cross Sal- combe Hill, nearly 500 feet above sea-level. It com- mands a fine all-round prospect. From it a rapid descent SEATON AND SIDMOUTH SECTION. brings us to the favourite watering-place of Sidmouth, for a description of which see p. 14. Seaton to Sidmouth, Pedestrian Route.—The cliff route leaves the road at the foot of White Cliff about |ths of a mile on the way, and, crossing the top, descends abruptly into Beer. The highest part of the cliff consists of chalk, and is abundantly clothed with ivy. The women of Beer, as is the case in a large number of the neighbouring villages, are mostly employed in lace-making. From Beer a walk may be taken to Beer Head, along the regular line of level-topped cliffs, extending westwards from that vantage point, and a sudden change will be observed from the glaring chalk over which the road has hitherto passed, to the glowing red sandstone of the Sid- mouth district. Descending from Beer Head, Branscombe Mouth will be reached in mile. Here three small valleys converge. The village of Branscombe, noticed above, lies from half a mile to a mile inland. The Church of Branscombe is in the western part of the village. The cliffs may be taken again, and a footpath followed which commences in the churchyard, and ascends steeply to a height of nearly 300 feet. The next descent— a very steep one—is to Weston Mouth, 2|- miles beyond Branscombe. On the western side of this depression Duns- combe Cliff rises with corresponding abruptness. A path leads upwards inland to Dunscombe and Salcombe Regis, whence the route to Sidmouth over Salcombe Hill is as described above. AXMINSTER TO SIDMOUTH. Quitting Axminster, the railway affords a fine view down the verdant strath of the Axe. The uniform level of the HONITON. valley itself contrasts finely with the varied outline of the hills on both sides of it Ashe House (p. 3) is passed on the left, and the village of Shute (p. 4) on the right, beyond which we skirt the romantic deer-park of Sir W. E. Pole’s estate. We then cross the little Coly, and keep to the right of the village of . On the pleasant slope of Widworthy Hill stands the old and little church, whose chief claim to notice is its interesting memorials of the old Devonshire family of the Harwoods. After leaving the Axe valley the railway ascends to Honiton, through a broken and diversified country, by one of the steepest gradients on the line, and passes through the longest tunnel. HONITON (Hotels: Dolphm, Angel; 155 m. from London; Pop. 8358) occupies the slope of a pleasant valley, watered by the fish-abounding Otter, and is one of the prettiest, cleanest, and most agreeable of Devonshire towns. Every lady in England is familiar with its rich and delicate hand-made lace, of which the Queen’s bridal robe was fashioned ; and the households of Devon and have long tested the excellence of Hdniton butter. The dairy produce of this fertile vale is also despatched to the London markets. The lace manufacture was introduced here by the Flemings in the reign of Elizabeth. Honiton now only forms one of the many surrounding places in which the industry is pursued. Honiton has two churches—St. Paul’s, built in 1837, and containing an original painting, “ The Descent from the Cross,” by W. Salter, R.A., a native artist; and the old church of St. Michael, on high ground south of the town, partly restored. It was a priory chapel, 10 SEATON AND StDMOUTH SECTION. built by Bishop Courtenay in 1484, and contains a grace- ful oaken screen, also recently restored, and the black marble tomb of Thomas Marwood, who practised physic seventy-five years, and died at the age of 105, physician to Queen Elizabeth. A cure which he performed upon the Earl of Essex raised him into eminence, and his sovereign rewarded him by a gift of land at Widworthy. His son (also “a leech”) built “Marwood” House in Honiton, which is still standing, and which sheltered Charles I. on the night of the 25th of July 1644. The view from the old churchyard is extensive, and embraces the meanderings of the crystal Otter ; the long straggling street of Honiton, watered by a pleasant brook ; Tracey House, upon the hill-side across the river ; , in a hollow to the north-west, and Hembury Fort upon the steep above it; and Dumpdon Hill, 2 miles north, with its summit crowned by an oval camp. To the south-east lies , and to the south-west. . Hembury Fort (4 miles on the Collumpton road) is an oval camp, divided into two parts by an earthwork, and defended by a triple vallum of considerable height. Some antiquaries have identified it with the Moridunum of Antoninus, which was 15 miles from Exeter, and 36 miles from Dorchester ; but as “ Moiidunum ” signifies “the hill-fort by the seaside,” it is more probable that High Peak, near Sidmouth, was the Roman station. A road turning to the right at Hembury Fort leads over the downs to , 4 miles distant, where there are some remains of the ancient Abbey. Striking then into the road, the pedestrian may return to Honiton through Comberawleigh and by Tracey House. As he OTTERY ST. MARY. 11 descends the hill, lies on the river-bank, in. the vale to the left, and the (Lord Sid- mouth) rises conspicuously among its sheltering trees. It contains some good pictures, and a bust of Speaker Addington, first Viscount Sidmouth, by Roubiliac. The whole round is somewhat less than 15 miles. A road past Honiton Old Church leads southward to the little village of , miles, where an old Elizabethan mansion, Netherton Hall, lies at the base of Warren Hill, or Farway Castle, a British camp with a single fosse and vallum. Railway Route continued.—Between Honiton and Sidmouth Junction we notice Hembury Fort (see above) on the high ground to the right. From Sidmouth Junc- tion (Gouldsworthy’s Railway Inn) the branch line turns abruptly to the left, and, following the course of the Otter, reaches in three miles the town of OTTERY ST. MARY. Inns: King's Arms, London, Red Lion ; Pop. 4000. Here the great attraction, apart from the charm of the scenery, is the ancient Church of Saints Mary and Edward, originally founded by , and bestowed upon the Abbey of Rouen ; rebuilt by Bishop Branscombe, 1257-1280 ; completed, and con- verted into a collegiate church by Bishop Grandison, about 1340. It was thoroughly restored in 1850, and will afford the student a grateful subject for patient study. The West Front, with its three stories, will remind him of Exeter Cathedral, from which it was apparently imitated. The doorway is deeply recessed, and sur- 12 SEATON AND SIDMOUTH SECTION. mounted by a five-light window. A niche in the gable exhibits a figure of the Virgin Mary, co-patron of the church. The South Tower is Early English ; its string course terminates in fantastic corbel heads, and in each face is inserted three lancets. The North Tower is crowned by a spire. The Choir extends three bays into the nave, and is paved with Minton’s encaustic tiles. The Nave (Perpendicular) and Chancel have each, we think, six bays. The Lady Chapel is in the Decorated style of Edward III.’s reign, while the Dorset Chapel, on the north-west side of the nave, is Perpendicular. The latter was built by Cicely, Marchioness of Dorset, and contains a fine western window of six lights, representing the Transfiguration—the work of Wailes. It has also a rich groined roof, and exhibits the arms of Bishops Cour- tenay (1478-87) and Vesey (1519). Over each of the arches supported by the nave-columns observe a niche for a statue. The ceiling of the nave is very rich. In the aisles the windows are by Hardman, from Pugin’s designs, and respectively represent the Majesty of God and Christ on the Gross. The rectangular font is Per- pendicular, but of recent workmanship. Here Coleridge the poet and Joanna Southcote were christened. The stone reredos has been effectively restored by Blore. The canopied niches in the rear of the altar appear to have been intended for pictures. Brackets for images are placed on either side, and niches for statuary fill the arch above. Five misereres have been replaced on each side of the choir, and a low oaken screen separates them from the transept. Round an old wooden altar has been laid a glowing pavement, and a vacant bay before the sanc- tuary has been protected by a screen formed out of a OTTERT ST. MARY. 13 fourteenth century parclose. Remark the stone sedilia, and the gallery of stone, with its pillars of Purbeck marble, which divides the Lady Chapel from the Ambula- tory. The Memorials to be noticed are those of Sir Otho de Grarulison, d. 1360, brother of the bishop-architect, and Beatrix Malmaynes, his wife, each reposing in an altar- tomb under-richly decorated canopies ; Archdeacon North- wood—an incised stone despoiled of its brass ; and John Coke of Thome, d. 1632, an armed soldier grasping his sword. The latter fosters the “ violet of a legend.” He is said to have been murdered by a younger brother, and his statue, therefore, steps down from its niche at night and stalks through the silent church. The churchyard contains several monuments of the Coleridge family, amongst them a granite cross, 12 feet high, erected in 1877 in memory of Sir J. T. Coleridge. In the reign of Elizabeth, Sir had a house in Mill Street, of which no remains exist; but the townsmen still point out with interest ’s Convention Room. The Protector visited Ottery St. Mary in 1645 (November 16th to December 11th), with Fairfax, for the purpose of raising recruits and levy- ing “ donations but, being unsuccessful, permitted his troopers to plunder the church, where they committed sad havock among the ancient statues. William of Orange, on his progress to London in 1688, lodged a day in the town (November 21). It was the birthplace of the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, October 21, 1772. He was the youngest of thirteen children, of whom nine were sons, and his father, the Rev. John Coleridge, was the Vicar of Ottery, and head master of the Free Grammar School—“ an exceedingly studious man, pious, of primitive 14 SEATON AND SIDMODTH SECTION. manners, and the most simple hahits ; passing events were little heeded by him, and therefore he was usually characterised as ‘the absent man.5” One of his pupils was the celebrated Judge Butler, through whose influence the future poet, after his father’s death, was placed in Christ’s Hospital. The poet, in after life, often recalled the bright beauties of his birthplace, and sang— “ Mine eyes I never shut amid the sunny ray, But straight with all their tints thy waters rise, Thy crossing-plank, thy marge with willows gray, And bedded sand that, vein’d with various dyes, Gleamed through thy bright transparence ! ” Henry YI. visited the Church at Ottery in 1451 ; one of the priests of the collegiate church was the eccentric Richard Barclay, the translator of “ the Ship of Fools.” The Grammar School was founded by Henry VIIL Silk- spinning and the manufacture of lace have taken the place of the old staple of Ottery trade—the serge manufacture. Three miles south of Ottery, and just beyond the wayside station of Tipton, the railway leaves the valley of the Otter and climbs abruptly to a height of about 300 feet, passing through Harpford Wood, as romantic and secluded a spot as one could wish to find, and thence descending to Sidmouth Station, which is one mile north of the esplanade. SIDMOUTH. Hotels: York, Bedford,Exeter, London. 21 m.Distance Pop. 3500.from London, 168 m.; 5 hr. Sidmouth lies in a beautiful valley between the two lofty eminences, Peak Hill on the west and Salcombe Hill on the east. It has a notably fine, unobstructed sea-frontage, along which runs a wall, built in 1838 to 8IDMOUTH. 15 supersede the old natural breakwater of gravel and sand. This wall, which is nearly half a mile long, forms also an excellent promenade, and effectually protects the houses on the beach from sudden encroachments of the sea. The cliffs on both sides rise to a height of several hundred feet, and are composed of a sandstone whose glowing red colour is hardly equalled even in Devonshire. In striking contrast with them, in this respect, is the vivid green of the pastures which crown their summits, and of the slopes which descend thence to the valley of the Sid, a tiny rivulet, whose stream is often scarcely perceptible as it trickles into the devouring sea. There is a row of good lodging-houses along the beach, and the town is well supplied with the usual amenities of a thriving watering-place. Inland, along the valley of the Sid, there are many pleasant well-to-do-looking villas. The climate of Sidmouth has the reputation of being the most equable in Devon, the mean summer tempera- ture being about 56, and that of winter about 45. Not- withstanding, in the height of summer, the radiating power of the glaring cliffs and the confined character of the valley often produce in combination excessive heat. The rainfall is about the smallest in the county, averaging 28 inches. At Sidmouth, the Duke of Kent, who had been drawn thither by the mildness of the climate, died in 1820, and the infant Princess Victoria lived there with her mother for some time afterwards. At that time Sidmouth was the fashionable seaside resort of the west. There is every facility for sea-bathing on the beach, which, by the way, is rich in valuable stones, such as chal- cedony, agates, and jaspers, of different kind and colour. The Parish Church of St. Nicholas, or, as some will 16 SEATON AND SIDMOUTH SECTION. have it, St. Giles, dates from 1259. It was restored in 1860, since which time the interior has been beautified by the addition of a handsome reredos and a hexagonal pulpit of Devonshire marble, and by the laying of the floor of the chapel with encaustic tiling. Nearly all the windows of the church are of coloured glass. The west window, an excellent work of art, was presented by the Queen in memorj' of her father. The idea of the window is a repre- sentation of charity in a practical sense. All Saints’ Church was built in 1837, and is of no special interest. EXCURSIONS FROM SIDMOUTH. This town is well placed for pleasant excursions either along the coast or into the country. That to Branscombe and Beer has already been described the reverse way (p. 6), and we need only here remind the tourist of the excellent view which is to be obtained from Salcombe Hill, 1 m. on the way. A peculiarity of the high ground in this part of Devonshire is its uniform level As you look from one hill to all the others around, it seems as if the whole neighbourhood had been cut through horizon- tally by a huge knife, and the parts sliced off carefully removed. When the hill sinks to admit a valley, it rises again to the same height on the other side. Ottery St. Mary, 5^ m. by rail, should be visited for its grand old church (p. 11). Sidbury Castle, 3 m., is a large camp, in shape like a kite, on the hill to the west of Sidbury village. It is reached by leaving the Sidbury road a few hundred yards beyond . Sidbury Church has some Norman remains. From Sidbury or Sidbury Castle the pedestrian EXCURSIONS PROM SIDMOUTH. 17 may cross, in an hour or so, over Beacon Hill and descend to Tipton Station (3 m. from Sidmouth). High Peak Hill, 2 m.; , 3| m.; Budleigh Salterton, 6£ m.—This is a very pleasant walk, and for coast-tourists forms the next stage to the one from Seaton and Beer to Sidmouth, already described. From the beach at Sidmouth the ascent of the cliff to Peak Hill commences at once. In about half a mile, just beyond a fantastic cottage, the path strikes to the left out of the road, and continues along the cliff and the N. side of High Peak Hill (510 ft.), whence there is an extensive view. The cliffs are here composed of sand, partly calcareous, and tinted with a ruddy hue by oxide of iron ; but they gradually lose their elevation as we continue our westward course. At Ladram Bat the waves have hollowed out a natural arch or cove by their unceasing action on the softer strata of the rock. From High Peak the route drops to Otterton (Inn), a fairly-sized village, situated on the woody cliff overhang- ing the Otter. The Church, Early English, rebuilt in 1870, is on a river-worn rock, and close to it a ruinous wall or two mark the site of Otterton Priory, of which we read that “ from the Conquest to the dissolution of Abbeys it continued in the hands of religious men.” About l£ mile N.W. of Otterton are Bicton Lodge and Park, the seat of Lady Kolle, famous for its arboretum and horticulture. Of the gardens the late Mr. Loudon wrote : “We never before saw culture, order, and neatness carried to such a high degree of perfection in so many departments on so large a scale.” The house is spacious and imposing, and seated at the head of an ample lawn, which gently slopes to the river. Admission to the grounds cannot be obtained without special leave, c 18 SEATON AND SIDMODTH SECTION. Bicton Church is a modem edifice of some architec- tural pretensions, and was erected at the expense of Lady Rolle. A portion of the ancient sanctuary has been con- verted into a family mausoleum, and connected by a corridor with the old gray tower, which has been per- mitted to escape the restorer’s hand. Where the Ottery road crosses the Exeter, an old Cross stands, and presents upon its brick pedestal some scriptural quotations. The direct road to Budleigh Salterton diverges to the left a little beyond the Otterton Bridge, and passes through (Inn : The Rolle Arms). East Budleigh is a picturesque assemblage of quaint cottages, enlivened by a pleasant stream. In the Church dedicated to All Saints is the pew of the Raleigh family, dated 1537 ; and a grave slab inlaid in the pave- ment of the nave commemorates Joan Drake, the first wife of famous Sir Walter’s father. Raleigh was born, in 1552, at Hayes Barton Farm, ij mile west, a picturesque Elizabethan farmhouse, with mullioned win- dows and thatched roof. An old oaken table- and the room where he was bom used to be shown to the visitor. For Budleigh Salterton see Exeter Section, p. 47. To .—The pedestrian may continue from Budleigh Salterton past the flagstaff on Beacon Cliff, which commands a splendid view, and then drop to the village of , whence Exmouth is two miles dis- tant by road. Descending to Exmouth over ground con- siderably lower than that we have been traversing almost all the way from Seaton to Budleigh we have in front of us the Exe estuary, backed by the red cliffs of Dawlish, the sylvan glades of Powderham Park, and the long ridge of Great and Little Haldon. EXETER SECTION.

This section comprises the south coast from Budleigh Salterton to Teignmouth, and in other directions extends as far as the borders of Dartmoor on the west, to Holsworthy in the north-west, and to Chulm- leigh and the borders of and Somersetshire in the north and north-west. Cathedral Yard ; Queen's, Queen Street; Half Moon, High Street. There areclose also to St.two David’s small hutStation. handy hotels, The Hailivay and The Elmfield, Railwayof city. Stations St. David’s, : London Great-Western and South-Western, and L. Queenand S.-W., Street, half near acentre mile line,away. in theSt. Thomas’sS.W. part (G.-W. of the only)city. on the South Devon portion of the Distance194 m.; fromtime, London 4h. 15m. by L. and S.-W. 172 m.; time, 4h. By G.-W. PopulationPost-Office (Queenof Municipal Street). , (1881) 37,6655. Returns 2 M.P’s. EXETER. 21 The city of Exeter, one of the most ancient towns in England, is the county-town of Devonshire. It is finely situated on the eastern bank of the Exe, whence the lower part of the city rises to the plateau of the higher by a steep slope, broken in the centre by bare sandstone rock. From the colour of this rock the castle winch stands upon it derives its name — “Rougemont,” — and the general redness of rock and soil which pervades all the country round Exeter gives it a character of its own, and distinguishes it from all other county towns of England. The city itself retains many memorials of its antiquity, notably in the High Street, which, though comparatively narrow, and containing few specimens of that excessive ornamentation which characterises civic architecture of the present day, is as interesting a thoroughfare as one can desire to walk through. The city, in fact, seems to have hit the happy medium between the pretentious and the mean. There is every sign of wealth and prosperity, but none, or next to none, of ostentation. The stranger arriving at St. David’s Station, Exeter, may be excused if he becomes somewhat bewildered by the running of the trains. The main lines of the G.-W. and L. and S.-W. Companies cross one another therein, and oddly enough they go out in exactly opposite directions to reach the same destina- tions. A Great-Western train, to wit, coming from London enters the station at the north end, and may be immediately followed by a South-Western train going to London ; the latter has cotoq from Plymouth, and having stopped in the station, it goes out at the south end, still following, it may be, the Great- Western train, which is going to Plymouth. The South-Western line, we may add, in its course between Queen Street and St. David’s Stations descends a gradient of 1 in 24. EXETER SECTION. History op Exeter. The , on the slope of the hill whose base was washed by so clear and strong a river, naturally placed one of their earliest settlements, which they named Caer Isc, the town or fort on the Waters.* From its advan- tageous position, it would necessarily thrive and flourish ; so that, when the Roman Eagle pressed forward into the combes of the West, it was, we may reasonably conclude, a prosperous town. The Romans immediately occupied it, and built a castle within it, and made it one of their stipendiary cities, changing its name to Isca Damnoni- ORUM, so that it waxed very great and powerful, and, through its neighbourhood to the Dartmoor tin-mines, very rich. Then after undergoing various vicissitudes in the early years of Saxon supremacy, the town was restored to peace and tranquillity by Athelstan (about 927), who protected it with walls, established an abbey, and is justly regarded as the founder of modern Exeter by all loyal Exonians. It was ravaged on two or three occasions, however, by the Danes, but, nevertheless, grew so strong and prosperous that Edward the Confessor, in 1044, removed thither the episcopal see, which for some cen- turies had been established at Crediton, and appointed to it , “ his own priest” At the , Exeter distinguished itself by its resolute defence against King William. Its inhabit- ants, says Ordericus Vitalis, cherished a deadly hatred towards their insolent invaders, and resolved to oppose themselves to the last against that King of alien blood, * They also called it Caer-Ryth, the city on the Red Soil; Caer-Pen- hoelcoit,chief city. the prosperous chief city in the woods; and Pen-Caer, the EXETER. 23 with whom, until his appearance before their walls, they had had no dealings whatsoever. They were wealthy and patriotic, and in their midst was the mother of Harold, who had fled to them for protection ; and so they girded on their swords ; they strengthened their fortifications ; they called in from the surrounding country all who could bear arms ; they invited the neighbouring towns to form an alliance with them ; and, finally, they hired as soldiers all the foreign mariners who chanced to be in the port. The is one of the most romantic episodes in the history of the Conquest of England. Had the other great English towns resisted the invaders with the same unquailing intrepidity, it may be that England would never have been Norman. And, after all, the proud city fell through the treason of foes within—not the valour of her enemies without; treachery foully overcame what even Norman courage could not subdue. During the siege forty-eight houses were shattered into ruins; and with their materials the Normans built a castle, possibly upon the site of the Eomano-Saxon stronghold, which, from its position and the colour of the soil on which it was erected, they called Itouge-Mont. Its custody was intrusted to Baldwin, son of Gilbert de Brionne, who was also appointed vicecomes of Devonshire, and enriched with twenty houses in Exeter, and one hun- dred and fifty-nine fat manors. During the wars which disturbed the reign of Stephen, Exeter embraced the Empress Matilda’s cause, and the garrisoned the castle in her name. The king marched against it in person, and besieged it for two months'(1136), starving the inhabitants at last into a 24 EXETEB SECTION. surrender; but Matilda remained so great a favourite with the men of Exeter that for centuries afterwards an annual festival was held in commemoration of her. The Shakespearian reader will remember that Rouge- Mont was visited by Richard III. (September 8, 1483), who connected it with the warning he had received of his destined end. The dramatist makes his hero exclaim— “When last I was at Exeter, The mayor in courtesy shew’d me the castle, And call’d it Rouge-Mont—at which name I started, Because a bard of Ireland told me once, I should not live long after I saw Richmond.” Richard III., Act iv., S. 2. The city was besieged by and his adherents in 1497 ; and again, in 1549, during the “ Great Devonshire Commotion,” which resulted from Edward YI.’s ritualistic changes, by the Roman Catholic insurgents. They encompassed the city for two months, but were compelled to retire on the appearance of the royalist army under Lord Russell. When the Civil War broke out, the Earl of Stamford seized upon Exeter for the Parliament, but his defeat in May 1643 opened the gates to Prince Maurice, after an eight months’ siege. It remained in the possession of the for three years, and the queen here gave birth to the Princess Henrietta, afterwards the beautiful Duchess of Orleans.* In April 1646 it was captured by Lord Fairfax and the Parlia- mentarian army. The castle was then dismantled, and the fortifications demolished. The next great event in the history of Exeter was the Guildhall.* Her portrait, presented to the city by Charles II., still hangs in the EXETER. 25 triumphant entry of William of Orange, November 9, 1688. The Prince was lodged in the Deanery, where, for some days, he remained in anxious suspense. The people had loudly pronounced in his favour, but at first the gentry held hack from joining his standard. Coaches drawn by six horses, in the Cathedral Close, gave to that quiet precinct something of the splendour and gaiety of Whitehall. William quitted Exeter 21st November, leav- ing that city and the surrounding country under the government of Sir Edward Seymour.

2Ef)e Catfjetfral. The glory and boast of Exeter is, of course, its Cathe- dral, which, though inferior in design and size to many of our English minsters, is, in some of its details, superior to all. Its Western Front is admirable, and its Interior almost faultless :— The rich-fretted roof, And the wrought coronals of summer leaves, Ivy and vine, and many a sculptured rose, The tenderest image of mortality, Binding the slender columns, whose light shafts Cluster like stems in corn sheaves. The reparation of the edifice on an extensive scale was carried on under the advice of the late Sir Gilbert Scott, and the best results have been produced at a cost of i40,000. History.—^According to Hoker, a Benedictine mon- astery and two other religious houses formerly stood 26 EXETER SECTION.

EXETER CATHEDRAL.

EXETEH SECTION. within the present precincts of the Cathedral, and there is little doubt but that Edward the Confessor, when he removed the episcopal see from Crediton to Exeter, con- verted the monastery into a cathedral-church, if he did not erect an entirely distinct building. Of the Confessor’s foundation, however, no remains exist. The Cathedral we are now about to enter dates only from the reign of Henry I., when it was commenced by Bishop Warelwast (1112). When the city was captured and set on fire by Stephen, the Cathedral was so severely injured that, though some necessary repairs were effected, Bishop Quivil resolved, in the reign of Edward I., to erect a new building on a more splendid scale. He lived to construct the Lady Chapel, and in his design he adapted the Norman towers of Bishop Warelwast as transepts. That design was carried out by his successors for more than a century, the final touches being given to it by Bishop Bothe. Its great defect is the want of a central tower to give dignity and majesty to its exterior, which is heavy without being imposing. It is noticeable for the extreme beauty of many of its details, hut as a whole is far from impressive. Its architect would seem to have been capable of contriving “ smaller features of almost faultless excellence,” hut to have wanted that “ imaginative daring of genius ” which would have enabled him to construct a sublime whole. The Plan of the Cathedral is cruciform ; the arms, how- ever, are very short, the transepts having been formed out of the towers. The entire length of the building (including the Lady Chapel) is 408 feet; the towers, covered with blank arcades and other Norman details, are 145 feet high. The windows are in the Decorated EXETER. style, and enriched with exquisite tracery. Between them are bold flying buttresses, with crocheted pinnacles, support- ing the clerestory, and the high-pitched roof is effectively ornamented with a fleur-de-lis ridge. The most striking portion of the exterior, however, is the Western Front, which consists of three stories:— the basement, an elaborate screen, with a central door- way and a smaller one on each side. The entire surface is occupied with canopied niches, each containing a statue. The second story recedes slightly, and contains the noble west window of the nave, 39 feet by 27 feet, filled with nine lights, trefoiled, supporting a magnificent rose filled with rich geometrical tracery,— “ Flamboyant with a thousand gorgeous colours, The perfect flower of Gothic loveliness !” On each side are Decorated arcades, and the wall is sup- ported by two bold flying buttresses. The upper story, receding behind the second story, is formed by the gable of the nave, and adorned by a window smaller than, but similar to, that which we have already described. The whole of the front was carefully restored in 1817. Its statuary forms a remarkable gallery of “ patriarchs, sove- reigns, prelates, barons, saints, and angels.” Of these the figures of the English kings are, perhaps, the most beautifully executed. Most of them, however, are in a very dilapidated condition. The interior is divided into 1. The Nave, with north and south aisles. 2. North and South Transepts (St Paul’s and St. John’s Towers). 3. The Choir and Aisles. 30 EXETER SECTION. 4. The Chapels, viz.— 1. The Lady ChapeL 2. St. Paul’s (east side of the north transept). 3. St. John the Baptist’s (east side of south transept). 4. St. Andrew’s (north of choir). 5. St. James’s (south of choir). 6. St. Mary Magdalene’s (aisle of the choir). 7. St. George’s (adjoining, on the north). 8. St. Gabriel’s (aisle of the choir). 9. St. Saviour’s (adjoining, on the south). 5. The Consistory (formerly St. Edmund’s Chapel). We now make our way into the Nave, 180 feet long, built by Bishop Bytton (1293-1307), and vaulted by Bishop Grandison (1328-69). The exquisite enrichments of its windows ; its bold vaulted roof; the shapely clustered columns of Purbeck marble which separate it from the aisles ; its general simplicity and grandeur,—will immediately be recognised. The western win- dow forms, of course, a conspicuous feature. The glass, however, is not good. A figure of St. Peter, the patron saint of the cathedral, occupies the centre. From the clerestory on. the north side projects the curious “Minstrels’ Gallery,” adorned with well-wrought figures of angels playing on shawm and cithara, harp, bagpipe, organ, trumpet, and tambourine. Date, reign of Edward III. On the north side, too, is a beautifully- carved stone pulpit, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, in memory of Bishop Patteson, who was murdered in the South Pacific Islands in 1871. He was ordained deacon, priest, and bishop in this cathedral. The sculpture on one of the panels repre- sents the body of the bishop being carried by the natives to a boat. The Nave contains, also, some new choir-seats. The Organ is one of the finest intruments in England. It was built, in 1665, by John Loosemore, at a cost of £2000—defrayed bySherder, Bishop Jordan, Ward—and Lincoln (1819),has been and successivelyByfield and Gray.improved Exeter by has long been noted for the excellence of its choral service, of which Defoe says : “Its solemnity, decency, and affecting har- mony ; the numerous congregation who attend, and their grave and pious behaviour,—render the cathedra] a glory to the diocese, the envy of other choirs, and the admiration of strangers.” The triple-arched Rood-Screen (separating the Nave from the Choir) now invites our attention. The modern additions were made in 1819. Both the original design and workmanship {temp. Edward III.) are excellent, and the panels are covered with a remarkable series of very rude and very ancient oil paint- ings on stone, of singular value as illustrations of the condition of early English art. They represent— 1. The Creation; 2. Adam and Eve in the Garden; 3. The Deluge; 4. 6.The Building Israelites of crossingthe Second the RedTemple; Sea; 7.5. TheDestruction Angel and of Solomon’sZacharias Temple;; 8. The TheNativity; Resurrection; 9. Baptism 12. ofThe Christ; Ascension; 10. Christ 13. Pentecost. removed from the Cross; 11. The Choir is the richest and completest portion of the Cathe- dral. It was commenced by Bishop Quivil (1281-1293), and completed by Bishop Grandison (1329-69). The oaken stalls are old and of a superior character, the canopies are recent and of indifferent workmanship ; but the great object of interest is the Bishop’s Throne, a pyramidical structure of open tracery and pointed arches, rising to the height of 52 feet. Bishop Bothe placed it here about 1470. When the defaced the statues and broke the richly-painted windows, the throne escaped through having been taken to pieces and concealed before the city was surrendered to Fairfax. A handsome new Reredos, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, occupies a large space at the east end of the choir. The summit rises to a height of 22 feet, and the materials used consist of marble and Derbyshire alabaster, with precious stones. The centre compartment is occupied by a sculptured group representing the Ascension. The figure of the Saviour, which is 34 feet in height, is sup- ported on either side by angels, while the figure of St. Peter, to whom the cathedral is dedicated, occupies a prominent position. The transfiguration and descent of the Holy Spirit on the day of Pentecost are also represented. The pavement is formed of yellow and green glazed tiles like those of Gloucester. The great eastern window (Early Perpendicular) dates from 1380, and the stained glass is of the same date. A beautiful pulpit of 32 EXETER SECTION. Derbyshire alabaster, the gift of Mr. , the chapter-clerk, was erected in 1876. The choir is separated from the aisles by an elaborate modem stone screen. The aisles respectively terminate in St. Mart Magdalene’s Chapel, with St. George’s adjoining on the north, and St. Gabriel’s and St. Saviour’s on the south. The Transepts are short and unimpressive. In the tower over the south transept hang eleven ; the tenor, weighing 7522 lbs., and the gift of Bishop Grandison, was cracked when ringing an exultant peal on the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot. In 1676 it was recast by Perdue, who also recast Great Tom of Exeter (in the north tower), which weighs 12,500 lbs., and was brought from Llandaff Cathedral in 1484 by Bishop Courtenay. In the north transept one’s gaze is attracted by a curious astronomical clock, temp. Edward III. The upper dial, which shows the minutes, was added in 1760. The lower dial is divided into three parts,—the earth in the innennost circle, the moon in the middle, and the sun in the outer one. The moon is blackened on one side, and moved by the clockwork. The Chapter - House (1427-78), to the south of the south transept, is a noble apartment, 75 feet by 30, with a richly- decorated roof. The lower portion is Early English, and was begun by Bishop Bruere (1223-44). Here is preserved the cathedral library of 8000 volumes, containing a copy of an edition of Caesar, printed in 1471; the “ Codex Exoniensis,” a MS. volume of Saxon poetry left by Leofric, first Bishop of Exetet and lately edited by Mr. Thorpe ; several Saxon MSS.; the volume of relating to Devon and Cornwall; and the registers of the see from the reign of Edward I. There is a Crypt under St. James’s Chapel, in the north transept. Some of the Chapels and are very beautiful, and the open screens which separate them from the body of the cathedral are in several instances very graceful and delicate. The monuments are of more than usual interest, and deserve a particular enumeration. EXETER. 33 MONUMENTS. chetti,In the of Nave—Sir9th Royal LancersPeter Courtenay, who fell ind. the1409; Indian a brass Mutiny. memorial, by Maro- in Inhis the chantry North (built Traksept—William 1485), was discovered, SyIke, d. 1508.in 1852, Above a curious the monument, fresco of and“ The disciples Resurrection.” stand around; and isthe shown Saviour in therises background from the tomb, ; the apostlesbestow- ingIn a thebenediction South Transept—Bishop with his right hand, Leofric, and holdingd. 1072, afirst crozier bishop in his of left.Exeter, tury.statues, Bishop and finely-executed John, “the Chanter," canopy ofd. the 1194. latter Hugh part Courtenay,of fourteenth Earl cen- of Devon,In the and Choir—North his Countess Side—Bishop Margaret; finely-sculpturedStapledon, founder effigies. of Exeter College, Stapledon,, d. his 1320; brother, canopied d. 1326; effigy, effigy in ofthe a knightdecorated in armour. style. BothSir Richard knight espousedand bishop the were cause murdered of Edward by a mobII. Bishopin Cheapside Marshall, for d.having 1200; tooeffigy warmly on a richly-sculpturedIn the Choir—South tomb ofSide—Bishop Purbeck marble. Cotton, d. 1621; effigy. Humphrey de BishopBohun, Chichester,Earl of Hereford, d. 1155 slain; slab at of Boroughbridge Purbeck marble. in 1322Sir ;Arthur effigy inChichester, armour. hisIn brother; the Chapel effigy. ofBishop St. Mary John Magdalene—SirWotton, d. 1595 ; altar Peter tomb. Carew, slain in Flanders,emaciated temp.corpse. Elizabeth Judge ; Doddridge,effigy. William d. 1628; Parkhouse, effigy. d.Bishop 1540; Stafford,figure of and. sculptured.1419; altar-tomb and canopy, screen and effigy of alabaster, exquisitely tomb,In the very Chapel- beautiful, of St. of Gabriel—Bishop the same date, Branscombe,the screen andd. 1280; canopy, effigy temp. and figures,Edward byIII. Flaxman. Lieut-General Northcote,Simcoe, d. the 1806; artist; a murala statue monument, by Chantrey. with SirIn John the Gilbert,Chapel and of St.wife, George—Sir temp. James John I. ; effigies.Speke, d. 1518; chantry-screen andIn effigy.the Chapel of St. Saviour—Bishop Oldham, d. 1519; chantry-screen andIn effigy. the Lady Chapel—Bishop Peter Quivil, d. 1293; slab engraved, with a floriatedThe North cross. Ware—Bishop Bartholomew, d. 1148; effigy. Bishop Simon de WestApulia, Front—Bishop d. 1223 ; effigy. Grandison, d. 1369; chantry, St. Rhadegund’s Chapel.North Aisle—Bishop Qarey, d. 1627; in his robes as a spiritual peer. Among the more renowned of the Bishops of Exeter we may name—Warelwast, who resigned on account of EXETER SECTION. his blindness ; Bruere, who fought at the siege of Acre, like a true priest-militant; Stapledon, slain in Cheapside by a riotous mob ; Stafford, ; Fox, the founder of Corpus Christi Coll., Oxon; Miles Goverdale, the translator of the Bible ; Wotton, who declared that a bishop should die standing, and would not retire to a couch ; Gauden, the chaplain of Charles I., and the sup- posed author of the Eikon Basilike; and Sir John Tre- lawney, to whose rescue, at the trial of the Seven Bishops, the Cornish miners made ready to hasten, and whose name is celebrated in Hawker’s well-known ballad :— “ And shall Trelawney die, and shall Trelawney die ? Then thirty thousand Cornish boys will know the reason why ! ” Trelawney was at that time Bishop of Bristol The Parish Churches of Exeter are numerous, but few of them are distinguished by any architectural excel- lence. A noteworthy peculiarity is the way in which several of them are built in the line of the street without any intervening space between them and the nearest houses. St. Olave’s, in Fore Street, was bestowed by William the Conquerer upon , and given up to the use of the French Protestants after the Edict of Nantes drove them from their native country. St. Sidwell’s (i.e. St Sativola, a pious Exeter maiden, whose mother murdered her with a scythe, circa 740) was built in 1813, on the site of an old and much decayed church. The steeple, however, was not erected until 1823. The pillars which separate the nave and aisles were preserved from the original building. The pulpit is richly carved, the font octagonal. A brass in the north aisle commemorates Hugh Grove, beheaded, together with EXETEB. 35 Colonel Penrnddoct, in Exeter Castle, May 1655, for their share in the rebellion against Cromwell. St. David’s, on St. David’s Hill, is a respectable Grecian-Doric structure, erected in 1817 from the designs of Mr. James Green. There is a monument to Sir Thomas Jefford, d. 1703. All-hallows on the Walls, in Bartholomew Yard, was designed- by Hayward in 1845. The east window contains some good stained glass, by Willement, and the south window (Simeon and Anna), by O’Connor. St. Lawrence’s, High Street, recently restored, has a good oaken screen, an altar-piece by Bacon, and a statue of Queen Elizabeth, removed from a conduit which formerly existed in High Street. St. James’s was built in 1836. The pulpit, of Spanish carved , and formerly in the Cathedral, is said to have been captured in a Spanish galleon. St. Mary Steps (West Street) exhibits a Norman Font and a curious antique clock, whose three figures are popu- larly called Matthew the Miller (it really represents Henry VIII.) and his two sons. An old local quatrain is still repeated:— “ Adam and Eve would never believe, That old Mat the Miller was dead, For every hour in Westgate tower Old Matthew nods his head.” In the church of St. Mary Arches there are numerous ancient memorials, and some Norman arches—whence the name Sancta Maria de Arcubus. St. Mary Major, Cathedral Yard, is partly Norman and partly Early Eng- lish, with some vile “ modernisation.” Some portions of St. Martin’s, Cathedral Yard, are Norman; and so of EXETER SECTION. St. John’s, Fore Street, and St. Stephen’s, High Street. Exwick Chapel was built in 1842, and is worth a visit. In St. Thomas the Apostle’s, Cowick Street, a monu- ment by Bacon commemorates his daughter Mrs. Medley. The altar-plate at St. Petrock’s, Cathedral Yard, is old and interesting. Among the other churches, that of St. Michael’s, on Mount Dinham, near the Mount Dinham , is also worthy of notice. Refore the Civil War, Exeter could boast, it is said, of no less than thirty- two churches ; and so numerous at one time were the monasteries that Exeter was called Monk Town. The Bishop’s Palace, in Palace Street, near the Cathe- dral, is not a remarkable building, but its gardens are very agreeable. It was leased during the Commonwealth to a sugar-refiner, traces of whose troughs and pans remained as late as 1821. ‘It was thoroughly renovated, 1845-8. Some of the ancient carving is excellent. The Devon Assize Hall (containing a fine picture, “ The Acquittal of Susannah,” by Brockedon, the artist and Alpine traveller) was erected in 1773, on the site of , the old stronghold,built by on an eminence which completely overlooks the city. Its name is said to be derived from the red soil on which it was built, but William of Worcester ascribes it to a mythic baron named Rothemund. The Conqueror bestowed it upon his niece Albreda’s husband, Baldwin de Brionne, and it remained with his descendants until 1230. It was captured and partly burnt by Stephen. John Holland, Duke of Exeter, built a stately mansion within its precincts in the reign of Henry VL, but both mansion and castle gradually fell into “ the sear and yellow leaf.” The gateway (Norman), three of the bastions, and EXETER. 37 some portions of the rampart, are nearly all that now re- gain, and over these the ivy has shed its luxuriant beauty, [Some ruins, however, still lend a peculiar interest to the beautiful grounds of Rougemont Lodge (Mrs. Gard), and these can readily be examined by the tourist—Mrs. Gard liberally throwing open her gardens to any stranger who presents his card]. The Guildhall was rebuilt in 1464 ; its singular pro- jecting front, supported by semicircular arches which rest on heavy columns, dates from 1593. The principal room is 63 feet long by 25 feet broad. The walls are adorned with the scutcheons of the city mayors, recorders, incor- porated trades, and benefactors. Among the paintings may be named—Henrietta Maria, daughter of Charles L, and afterwards Duchess of Orleans, bom at Bedford House, in this city, June 16, 1644, by Sir Peter Lely; Monk, Duke of Albemarle,-by Lely; George IL, and Lord Chief-Justice Pratt (Earl Camden), by Hudson, a native of Exeter, and master to Sir Joshua Reynolds. The most important modem building in Exeter is the Albert Memorial Museum in Queen Street, opened in 1869. Besides the museum itself, which, over and above its curiosities, is richly stocked with objects of natural history and geology,—the latter specially displaying the distinctive products of Devon and Cornwall,—the building contains a Free Library, a Reading-Room, and Schools of Science and Art. Its style is Gothic, with variations, the special aim of the architect having been, to quote from the descriptive catalogue, “ to reproduce some of the picturesque character of the old city without copying any of the old forms of its architecture.” Considerable colour-effect is gained by the use of stones of various tint in the constituent parts. 38 EXETER SECTION. “ The hasement and the of the arcade are of limestone, the columns of polished Aberdeen granite, the wall surface of Pocombe stone, relieved by bands of lime- stone, and the dressings of Bath stone, with shafts or small columns of Bishop Lydiard stone.” In fact, the exterior is a stone museum. Admission free ; Descriptive Catalogue, 3d. St. John’s Hospital, High Street, founded in 1225 for the support of five priests, nine boys, and twelve alms- men, was converted in 1663 into a Free Grammar School, and now maintains, in addition, a Blue Coat and a Com- mercial SchooL The buildings enclose a quadrangle, whose centre is occupied by a statue of Henry VII. in Roman garb. An ancient chapel adjoins the schools. College Hall, South Street, now shelters an Archi- tectural Society, whose collection of drawings and models will interest the virtuoso. Here is a portrait of a person unknown, by Reynolds, and one of the Rev. Tobias Langdon, by William Gandy, a native of Exeter, and an artist of great promise. The Hall dates from the fourteenth century, and is hung with old portraits of the early Bishops of Exeter. The Devon and Exeter Institution, founded in 1813, has a good library of 10,000 volumes ; the Athenaeum, built in 1836 ; The Commercial School, an Elizabethan pile, not erected until 1810, though the funds were be- queathed by Eliza Hale in 1632 ; the Eastern Market, Queen Street, occupying an area of 230 by 165 feet. There are some singular old houses in High Street, North Street, and South Street The Norman crypt of St. Nicholas Priory, Mint Lane, has been converted into a kitchen. Mrs. Card’s residence in Castle Street is surrounded by EXETER. 39 beautiful grounds, open to the public, and they are worthy of a visit. The Ship Canal was begun in 1544 in consequence of the injury done to the navigation of the river nearly three centuries earlier by the erection of the Countess’s Weir, by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, who, having been defeated in a lawsuit by the citizens of Exeter, took this mode of revenging herself. The canal cost the moderate sum of £5000, is 15 feet deep and 5 miles long, terminating at Topsham. Exeter was afterwards created a royal port by Charles II. ; and its communica- tion with the sea has since been carefully maintained. Worthies of Exeter.—Sir William Morrice, born 1602, Secretary of State to Charles II.; Sir Thomas Bodley, 1544-1612, “ who, with a munificence which has rendered his name more immortal than the foundation of a family would have done,” established the Bodleian Library at Oxford ; Thomas Yalden, 1671-1736, the poet, author of sundry odes and hymns now completely forgotten ; Simon Ockley, the Oriental scholar, bom 1675 ; Tom d!Ur/ey, 1650-1723, dramatist and ballad writer, immortalized by Steele in the Taller (No. 67); Eustace Budgell, 1685-1737, a friend of Addison’s, a contributor to the Spectator, and satirised by Pope—in allusion to a charge of will-forgery— “ LetAnd Budgell write whate’er charge lowhe please—except Grub Street on my my will; quill, ” William Gandy, the portrait-painter, d. 1729, and buried in St. Paul’s Church, Exeter—his genius was recognised by Kneller ; Cardinal Langton; Sir William Petre; Sir Vicary Gibbs, the well-known lawyer, 1750 ; Robert Lord Gifford, 1779 ; Lord Chancellor King, the ancestor of the Earls of Lovelace ; William Jackson, 1730, the composer of 40 EXETER SECTION. many exquisite chants, madrigals, and glees, and for many years the cathedral organist; and Richard Hooker, the “judicious,” horn at Heavitree in 1553, d. at Bishops- bourne, Kent, in 1600,—whose treatise on “ Ecclesiastical Polity” still holds its place among the masterpieces of English theological literature. In the courtyard is a statue of the late Earl Fortescue, placed in front of the modem Court-House, a building of no small unsightli- ness and incongruity. The walls of the Castle are of great thickness, and there is a walk along them commanding views of the city. Walks in or. near Exeter.—North of the Castle, and entered from it, or from either High Street or Queen Street, are the grounds of Northernhay, the favourite promenade of the citizens. It contains statues of Sir Thomas Acland and Mr. Dinham, and its walks are overshadowed by some fine elms. The only other statue calling for notice in the city of Exeter is a modern one of William Reginald, Earl of Devon, in Bedford Circus. “ From Friar’s Walk, and the Parade in front of Terrace, on the south side of the city, some capital views may he had of the city and country beyond. On the outside of the city very charm- ing strolls may he taken in almost any direction. Penn- sylvania Hill affords extensive and noble prospects; perhaps the city and surrounding country are seen to most advantage from it The footpaths along the meadows by the Exe also yield a most pleasant ramble. The Exe is here a broad stream, and the scenery along it, though not very striking, is very pleasing ; while the views that here and there are met with add occasional vivacity to GREAT AND LITTLE HALDON. 41 its quiet beauty. Old Abbey, on the east bank of the Exe, about a mile below the city, is tbe site of a priory of Cluniac monks. Hardly a vestige of tbe building remains ; but tbe stranger will not regret the stroll down to it, as it stands on a very pretty part of the river. A good footpath alongside the canal forms a favourite walk of the citizens in the summer season, especially of such as ‘ go a-junketing’ to the neighbouring villages. There are some very agreeable walks, too, by Cowick and Ide, and along the heights in that direction.”—Thorne. A good view of Exeter, we may add, is attainable from Exwick Hill, and a stroll to Heavitree, Hooker’s birth- place, one mile east, is not to be forgotten. From Haldon and Wattles (locally Waddles) Down, the prospects are very fine. Pem?;ssion is readily granted to the tourist to view the agreeable gardens of Fordlands (E. Walkey, Esq.), nearly 3 miles west. House is about 3^ miles north-east GREAT AND LITTLE HALDON. FROM EXETER. A most interesting day’s excursion,—and one which will, better than any other, enable the tourist to appreciate the rich beauty of this part of Devonshire,—is that over the entire length of the Haldon Ridge. This long line of upland, the northern part of which is called Great and the southern Little Haldon, is of an almost uniform height of 800 feet. It extends in a southerly direction from about 4 miles south-west of Exeter to within a short dis- tance of Dawlish and Teignmouth, to either of which towns 42 EXETER SECTION. a direct descent may be made. The range is crossed about the middle by two high roads from Exeter to Chudleigh and Newton respectively. For the first five miles these roads are identical, but at the foot of the ridge, just beyond the fifth milestone, they separate and cross the ridge about a mile apart. The distance to Chudleigh is 9| miles, and to 14J miles. Those, how- ever, who wish for a more bracing excursion, and for a fuller opportunity of feasting on the scenery than is to be obtained by merely crossing the hill, are advised to adopt the following route, which will involve about 15 miles walking to Dawlish and 17 to Teignmouth. Quitting Exeter by the Exe Bridge and St. Thomas’ Station (G.-W. E.) the Moreton Hampstead Eoad should be followed for 3 J miles, and at a J m. beyond a little inn on the right-hand side, the lane should be taken instead of bending to the right along the main road. We are now making for a tower which has been visible on the crest of the hill ever since the high ground was gained about 2 miles out of Exeter. In a quarter of a mile after its commencement this lane forks ; keeping upwards along the right-hand branch, and then, by continuing as straight for- ward as possible, crossing two or three roads which de- scend to the valley on the right, we will in another 3 miles reach the tower. On the way we have an exqui- site prospect across the rich and fertile undulations of the Teign Valley to the eastern slopes of Dartmoor. The tower, a three-sided one, was built upwards of a century ago by the then Earl Courtenay for the sake of the view. It rises above the road on the left hand. It is appro- priately called Belvedere. Being surrounded by trees it only affords the view from its higher parts. The key is GREAT AND LITTLE HALDON. 43 kept at the Haldon Farm about £ of a mile to the east. The panorama from the top of the tower stretches eastwards to the confines of the county and over a wide expanse of the English Channel. Nearer at hand are,—the town of Exmouth, the estuary of the , and the grounds of ; north-eastward, Exeter and the Black Down, crowned by the Wellington Monument ; northward, the wilds of Exmoor ; and westward, the Teign Yalley and Dartmoor. It is only due southward that the view is obstructed, and there the continuation of the Haldon range itself hides the coast and the various towns upon it Continuing southwards from the tower along the top of the range, we cross, in 2 miles, the Exeter and Chud- leigh Road. Close to the crossing is the Race Course— a finer one in situation even than the celebrated Lansdown Course at Bath. The distance to Chudleigh is miles. Straight onwards a sign-post directs you to Dawlish, hut if Teignmouth or Newton Abbot is your bourn you must descend by the next high road to the right about a mile further on. From the point at which this last road crosses there is a beautiful peep down to Exmouth. The dis- tances are—Teignmouth, 7 J m., Newton Abbot, 8 J m., back to Exeter direct, 6 m. The Newton Abbot and Teign- mouth Road forks in about a mile, the right branch lead- ing to Newton and the left to Teignmouth. There is an inn at Kennford, 2£ m. on the way to Exeter. For Dawlish (still 6 miles away) keep straight on. In 2 miles you pass a little to the right of an obelisk, beyond which is the hamlet of Wistlade. Thence we descend to our destination by a road whose general course lies about a quarter of a mile on the left of the Dawlish Brook. 44 EXETER SECTION. It must not be forgotten that all along the Haldon range there is no inn. EXETER TO EXMOUTH AND BUDLEIGH SALTERTON. Exeter (QueenExmouth, Street 10J Station) m. ; Budleigh to Topsham, Salterton 5J m.; (’bus), , 15) m. 8J m.; Trainstimes from a dayExeter from to ExmouthExmouth to25-30 Budleigh minutes Salterton, run. Omnibuses 50 minutes. 3 or 4 The Exmouth branch of the South-Western Railway diverges from the main line to London 1^ mile from the station, and, after passing Topsham, skirts the Exe estuary all the way. Before reaching Topsham we pass on the right of the line Wear House, formerly the residence of the Admiral Duckworth referred to below. Topsham (Hotels : Globe, Salutation; Pop. 3000); one of the oddest of odd English towns, straggling along the river bank for a mile or so, with a sort of restless despairing motion, as if it longed to get rid of itself It was once a place of some importance, and had an interest in the shipping trade. A good effect is pro- duced by the position of its Church, which was re- stored and almost rebuilt in 1877. It is situated on a tall cliff, and is dedicated to St. Margaret. It contains memorials (by Chantrey) to Admiral Sir John Duck- worth, d. 1817, who “forced” the passage of the Dar- danelles, and his son, Colonel George Duckworth, who fell at AlbuePa in 1811. Prom the churchyard some good views of the surrounding country, and of the various reaches of the river, may be obtained. Soon after leaving Topsham we obtain a view, across EXMOUTH. 45 the estuary, of the wooded grounds of Powderham, backed by the long ridge of Great Haldon. Then, less than a mile short of Lympstone, we pass to the right of Notwell Court, which belongs to the descendants of the great “ sea-lion,” Sir F. Drake. Lympstone, a fishing village on the bank of the estuary, calls for no comment. Thence the line hugs the estuary all the way to Exmouth. A walk from Lympstone to Exmouth over the higher ground east of the line affords the finest views of the estuary. EXMOUTH. Hotels: Imperial, Royal Beacon, London (Commercial). 183 m. fromfrom London ; ; 10J m.11 fromm. from Exeter; Sidmouth. 3 m. from Pop. Dawlish 6245. ; 8J m. Exmouth, in King John’s reign, was one of the principal ports in Devonshire, and to Edward III.’s great expedi- tion against in 1347 it supplied a quota of 10 ships and 193 mariners. Leland speaks of it as “a fischer townlet a little within the haven mouth,” and it then boasted of a fort or “ castelet” designed to command the estuary of the Exe. This fort was garrisoned for the king during the Civil War, blockaded by Colonel Shap- coate, a stout Eoundhead soldier, in February 1646, and captured, with 19 pieces of ordnance and much ammuni- tion, on the 15 th of the following March. When migrations to the seaside became fashionable with the aristocracy, Exmouth was the first town on the Devonshire coast to put out of sight its fishing-gear, and make itself snug and decent for the reception of summer visitors. A “New Town” sprang up along the slopes and on the summit of the hill, and the “ Old Town ” was altered and improved with new streets. When the Old EXETER SECTION. Town was first raised along tlie base of the hill, and on the beach, the sea “ covered nearly the whole of the ground on which the north-west part of the town is now built, and washed the base of the cliffs on the left hand side of the present turnpike road from Exeter.” Exmouth is provided with baths, bathing-machines, libraries, assembly rooms, and all those agrtfmens of a well- to-do watering-place. Holt Trinity Church was built in 1824 by the then Lord Rolle, whose family have been great benefactors to the town, which is largely their pro- perty. The Sea-Wall, constructed of limestone, from the designs of Mr. Plewse (1841-2), is 1800 feet long, 22 feet high, and affords an admirable promenade. From the terraced slopes of the hill, especially from Louisa and Trefusis Terraces, the prospect across the water is very pleasing ; well-wooded hills, the winding river, the rounded height of , the gray towers of Powder- ham, groves, orchards, gardens,—all blend in one change- ful panorama. The best views of Exmouth are obtain- able from the river, and from the hills on the other side of it. A long sandbank runs out from the town far into the river, and, a little lower down, the Warren stretches across from the other side of the estuary for full two miles. Near the first bank, in mid-stream, lies Shelley Sand, and outside the Warren, where the Exe forms a junction with the sea, the Pole Sand has accumulated. The natural harbour formed by these sandbanks is called The Bight, where vessels anchor while waiting for wind or . There are no special features of interest on the high road from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton. In a hollow among the hills, about a mile to the left of it, and 3 miles EXETER TO SIDMOUTH. 47 from Exmouth, stands the old Perpendicular Church of Withtcombe Raleigh, dedicated to St. Michael, but known as St. John in the Wilderness,—a name due to the fact of its having been founded by King John in connection with the Abbey of St. Michel in . Its partial destruction towards the end of last century left nothing but its tall tower and north aisle. The pedestrian will prefer to diverge to the right from the high road about Ij mile on the way, and passing through the village of Littleham (2 m.), to take the field path thence along the edge of Beacon Cliff, which can also he visited from Sidmouth, as on p. 18. Budleigh Salterton (: The Rolle Arms; Pop. 1900) is a charmingly situated little watering-place. It has an open beach, well suited for bathing. It lies in a sheltered valley,—a sparkling brook, spanned by numer- ous rustic bridges, enlivening its garden-girt villas,— myrtles and hydrangeas blooming lustily in the open air. Its Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was built in 1813. Budleigh is famous for its pebbles. The pedes- trian may enjoy a delightful walk from Budleigh to Sidmouth, Seaton, and Lyme Regis, skirting the cliff the greater part of the way. There is a splendid view from the flagstaff on the cliff west of the town. (For a full description, see Seaton and Sidmouth Section.)

EXETER TO SIDMOUTH.m Exeter (Queen Street) to151 Sidmouth m- i Sidmouth, Junction, 21 m.121 -; Ottery St. Mary. The railway between Exeter and Sidmouth Junction passes through a richly-cultivated and pleasantly-wooded country interspersed with green, undulating hills. Issuing 48 EXETER SECTION. from Exeter it leaves on the right hand the favourite suburb of Heavitree, interesting to the student as the resi- dence of the late Richard Ford, the author of the well- known “ Handbook to Spain,” and a contributor to the Quarterly Review. His gardens were arranged in imita- tion of a Moorish pleasaunce, and were bright with costly exotics. The first station is (2f m.), a small village, whose old church contains a good screen and a tolerable east win- dow. Then we cross the Clyst, a tributary of the Exe, and reach Broad Clyst (4f m.) The village is nearly 2 miles north of the station, and has a good Perpen- dicular Church. There is nothing else noteworthy until, after passing Station, we reach the valley of the Otter at Sidmouth Junction, where there is a railway inn (Gouldsworthy’s). The route hence through Ottery St. Mary to Sidmouth is described on p. 11. EXETER TO TIVERTON AND BAMPTON. Railway Route.—Exeter to Cullompton, 12J m. ; Tiverton Junction, (Taunton15 in.; Tiverton and Barnstaple Town, 20 Branch), m.; Bampton, 29 in. 27 m.; Morebatli Station Theof distancerailway is by contemplated. road from Exeter to Tiverton is IS m., and a direct line For the first few miles from Exeter the railway (the main line of the Great-Western) follows the course of the Exe, which here flows in a goodly stream through a green and fertile valley. In about 2 miles, and just beyond the divergence of the South-Western line to Plymouth and Barnstaple, Pynes, the residence of Sir Stafford Northcote, is noticeable on the hill-side to the left. Beyond it we leave the Exe Valley and enter that of its tributary the Culm, which descends from the high ground on the EXETER TO TIVERTON AND BAMPTON. borders of Devon and . On the banks of the larger stream, just after we have left it, stands , associated with the famous baptism controversy between Henry of Exeter and the Rev. G. C. Gorham. The Church is a fine old structure, with a stately but- tressed and pinnacled tower, a curious hexagonal font, and a chantry founded by the Speke family—a family once so potent in Devonshire that certain byways were called Speke’s Paths, as being reserved for him and his people to travel by, but no others. The station for the village is Stoke Carron (3^ m. on our way). A little further on, at some distance to the right, lies (Sir T. Dyke Acland, Bart.), its spacious mansion plea- santly girt about with patriarchal trees. Near the next station, Silverton, is Silverton Park, the stately classical- looking mansion of the Countess of Egremont. It was built by the late Earl of Egremont, and contains a good collection of pictures. Here is Sir Joshua Reynolds’ portrait of himself, painted for the corporation of his birth-town, , and sold by the corporation for ,£150. In this picturesque little village, which rejoices in a simple rural church of some antiquity, Fairfax encamped for four days, in 1645. Soon afterwards we sweep across the high road and the sparkling Culme into Hele, miles by rail from Exeter —a settlement which almost wholly consists of one large paper manufactory. Four or five miles on our right lies , a pretty Devonshire village, surrounded by fat meadows and fertile plains. In the west front of the tower of its Perpendicular Church, statues of the Virgin and Infant Jesus occupy an elaborately-wrought niche. The font is ancient, and the. screen, containing 50 EXETER SECTION. 34 painted panels, a most elaborate specimen of Perpen- dicular wood-carving. Following very closely the line of the Culme, we pass, one mile left, the large village of . At the rec- tory, now known as Bradninch House, Charles I. passed several nights in 1644, and the bedstead whereon the honoured guest reposed is still preserved. The Church is of composite architecture—Early English and late Perpen- dicular—the north aisle having been erected, temp. Henry VII., by the Guild of Cordwainers. Remark the curious painting of the Crucifixion, and the elaborate screen dating from 1528. Four miles beyond Hele we reach Cullompton (Hotels : The Railway, The White Hart; Population, 3000), a quiet old town—quiet in spite of its railway station— on the river Culme, which has its rise on the Black Down hills near the confines of Somerset, and joins the Exe near Exeter. The town formerly produced woollen stuffs, but its staple manufacture at the present time is paper. The manor descended from to his son Ethelward, and was afterwards bestowed upon the abbey of Buckland. The Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, and a conspicu- ous object from the railway, dates in the main from the fifteenth century; but one John Lane, a Cullompton clothier, built, 1528, the elegant Decorated chapel on the south side. The roof is elaborately enriched with fan tracery, and an inscription runs thus: “Warpat, Gustos Lanuarii,” which has been rendered “-warden” of the wapentake or hundred. The screen, decorated with the vine leaf, is exquisitely carved ; and very curious indeed is the portion that remains of the oaken Calvary, preserving its accessories of skulls and bones, and the EXETER TO TIVERTON AND BAMPTON. 51 mortice wherein the rood was formerly inserted. When the building was restored in 1849, the plaster was removed from singular frescoes ; amongst others, St Clara in a robe of saffron, St. Michael weighing human spirits in his balance, and St Christopher surrounded by quaint fishes, and such mermaids as Tennyson never dreamed of! About two miles north-east of Cullompton is Bradfield Hall (Sir J. Walrond) a fine old Elizabethan hall, with gabled roof and mullioned windows. It has been well restored. The hall still keeps its original oaken root Tiverton Junction {Railway Hotel) is 2| miles beyond Cullompton. Beyond it the main line, after passing , a small station at the foot of the Black Down Hills, which are crowned by the lofty Wellington Monument, reaches its summit level at the Black Ball Tunnel (nearly a mile long), and enters Somersetshire. Tiverton Junction to , 7 miles. This little branch line continues along the valley of the Culme, through pleasant pastoral scenery, and through the villages of and . At the former the Church is well worth visit- ing. It displays a considerable variety of Gothic architecture. TJffcuhne ales have a considerable local reputation. Hemyock (pop. 850), or Hemmick, as it is locally called, is agreeably situated at the foot of the Black Down Hills. Here are some ivy-shrouded ruins, and the grassy moat of a Koman castle, made use of by the Parlia- ment, during the Civil War, as a prison; captured by Lord Powlett and his cavaliers in 1642 ; and dismantled by Cromwell in 1646. The gateway is in good condition. Hemyock Church exhibits Early English and Decorated characteristics. Good trout-fishing may be had at Culme Bridge. 52 EXETER SECTION. From Hemyock the pedestrian may enjoy a pleasant walk across the Black Down Hills and hy the Wellington Monument to the town of Wellington, in Somersetshire. The distance is between 6 and 7 miles. The monument commands a view extending to the , Exmoor, and Dartmoor. Nearly 5 miles south of Hemyock are some fragmentary remains of the old Cistercian Abbey of Dunkeswell, founded in 1201. “A modem church occupies the site of the ancient cemetery.” From Dunkeswell the walk may be continued over the downs to Hembury Fort, which occupies a conspicuous height close to the road from Cullompton to Honiton, about 5 miles from Dunkeswell and 4 from Honiton. It is an oval camp, divided into two parts by an earthwork, and defended by a triple vallum of considerable height. Some antiquarians have identified it with the Moridunum of Antoninus, which was 15 miles from Exeter and 36 miles from Dorchester; but as “ Moridunum ” signifies “ the hill-fort by the seaside,” it is more probable that High Peake, near Sidmouth, was the !Roman station. TIVERTON JUNCTION TO TIVERTON AND BAMPTON (continuation of route from Exeter). The line passes through a pleasant, well-wooded country. On the right hand, 2 miles from the Junction, is Hal- berton, with an old and interesting Church. Two miles north-east of , and rather more than that distance from the Junction, is the Early English Church of Samp- ford Peverell, which contains the effigy of an unknown crusader, and other memorials worth inspection. TIVERTON. 53 TIVERTON. Hotels: The Palmerston and The Angel. 168 m. fromroad, London; 20 m. by 5 rail; m. from 6 m. Tiverton from Cuilompton. Junction; 13Pop. m. from10,462. Exeter by Tiverton, though a town of some antiquity, is not devoid of industrial activity. The lace factory of Sir J. H. Amory, established in 1816, employs a large number of hands, and the same firm conducts an ironfoundry and a gaswork. From its position in a pastoral district of great fertility, its markets for local produce are also of importance. The town is built on sloping ground at the junction of the Exe and Loman, and enjoys the advantages of railway and canal communication. The manor was bestowed by Henry I. upon the potent Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon, and Lord of the Isle of Wight, who built here a castle on the north side of the town, which his descendants maintained for several centuries. Fairfax and Massey captured it in 1645, and dismantled it. Its only remains are some mouldering walls and towers, covered with lichens, mosses, and ivy, and the noble gateway—now the property of Sir W. Carew, Bart. At Cranmore, south of the town, the rebels who participated in the religious war of 1549 were defeated by the royal . During the Civil War the town was occupied in turn by and ; in 1643 the Parliamentarians were driven out of it; in 1644 Charles I. entered it in person; in 1645 it was captured by Fairfax. The chief attraction of Tiverton is the Parish Church, a splendid fabric, originally built in the fifteenth century, but, with the exception of the Greenway Chapel and the Tower, rebuilt by Ashworth of Exeter in 1853-5. It is 54 EXETER SECTION. dedicated to St. Peter. Its embattled and pinnacled tower, in the Perpendicular style, is 116 feet high, and, of course, from its summit a bold and varied prospect may be enjoyed. The south fagade is the best portion of the building, and the buttresses are adorned with quaintly- sculptured figures. The screen in the interior; the scrip- tural sculpture decorating the porch and chapel, the latter of which was the gift of a wealthy merchant, John Green- way by name, and is remarkable for the richness of its carving; the brasses of John Greenway, d. 1529, and his wife Jane; and the altar-piece of “ The Wise Men’s Offerings,”—are things to be noticed with care. The memorials of the Courtenays, Earls of Devon, which once enriched the church, were destroyed in the siege of the town by Fairfax. The church was then garrisoned, and stoutly defended, by a detachment of Royalists. The tourist should not fail to visit the ancient Grammar School, founded for 150 boys by a Tiverton merchant, one Peter Blundell, about 1604. The Church of St. Paul’s and the newly-erected man- sion-house of Knightshayes Court (Sir J. H. Amory) are both worthy of notice. A block of almshouses in Gold Street is coeval with the church, and was also built by John Greenway. The road from Tiverton to Bampton keeps along the valley of the Exe until the river-course turns sharp to the left, about a mile short of Bampton. The scenery is remarkable for its graceful undulations and the richness and abundance of its foliage. HAMPTON EXETER TO BARNSTAPLE. 65 HAMPTON (Hotel: Tht While Horse. Pop. 1100) is situated on the Batham, a small tributary of the Exe. It is a quiet, uninteresting town ; but the surrounding scenery is of the pleasantest, if not of the highest, order. Hard by are large limestone quarries. The Church is Perpendicular. It has a fine screen, and a couple of ancient yew-trees in the churchyard. “ The Mount,” at the east end of Castle Street, occupies the site of a former Norman Castle. From Hampton we may rejoin the Exe at Exe Bridge (2 J m.), and proceed along its tributary, the Barle, to Dul- verton, 2|- miles more ; or we may reach a train at Station, on the Devon and Somerset line, in 2 miles. The course of the Exe is very delightful from the point where we left it—the Exeter Inn—up to and above Exe Bridge. EXETER TO BARNSTAPLE. By Line (L. and S.-W). Exeter (Queen Street) to St. Gyres, 4^ m. ; Crediton, 7 m. ; Junction, 11J m. ; , 13 J m. ; Morcbard Road, 15 m. ; , 18 m. ; , 21J m.; South Moulton Road, 25m.; Portsmouth Arms, 29 m.; , 32| m. ; Chapelton, 35 m. ; Barn- staple, 39| m. The trains- for this route start from Queen Street, Exeter, most of them forming a continuation, without change of carriage, of London expresses. Between Queen 56 EXETER SECTION. Street and St. David’s Station, where they also stop to pick up passengers from the Great-Western line, there is a steep downward gradient of 1 in 24. Thence, after following the Great-Western London route for about 2 miles, the North Devon branches , off to the left along the valley of the Greedy, a small tributary of the Exe, in no way remarkable except for its Devonian richness of colour. On the right hand, just beyond the junction, the grounds of Pynes House (Sir Stafford Northcote, M.P.) are passed on the right. The house is not visible. Newton St. Gyres (pronounced as a dissyllable) lies half a mile to the left of the line, and Crediton about the same distance on the right. The town is not seen from the station, close to which there is a small hotel CREDITON. Hotels: Angel, Ship. Pop. 4500. This is one of the Devonshire towns that has been improved by its numerous conflagrations, and it now exhibits hut little of that hoary antiquity to which it can lay claim. “ Kirton was a market town When Exeter was a vuzzy down,” runs the local rhyme, and it is said to have been the birthplace of the great missionary Winfred, or St. Boni- face, the apostle of Central Germany, martyred in 756. From 909 until 1050 it was the seat of a bishopric which had sway over Devon only. It was once a great depot of the woollen manufacture, but its staple now is boot and shoemaking. The Church is a good Perpendicular build- ing, embodying the Norman portion of the tower of the CREDITOU TO TIVERTON. 57 ancient sanctuary. An Early English piscina may be seen in the chancel-porch, and the east window merits examina- tion. During its prime as a collegiate church the chancel was occupied with 36 stalls for its 18 canons and 18 vicars. An altar-tomb, with effigies, commemorates Sir John Sully, who, after fighting under the banner of the Black Prince throughout his stirring campaigns, died at the age of 105, and Dame Sully, whose old age was not so remarkable as that of her warrior husband. A curious altar-piece, representing “ Moses and Aaron receiving the Decalogue,” will amuse the visitor. Crediton Manor formerly belonged to the Bishops of Exeter, who had a palace here. The seats in its neigh- bourhood are: Greedy Park (Sir H. E. Davie, Bart.); Park (Sir John Shelley); Dowrish House (A. C. Ireland, Esq.), miles north, retaining the gate- way and centre of a house built in the reign of King John, and a marble table “ inlaid with cards and counters, show- ing the two hands of piquet held by a Mr. Dowrish and an ancestor of the present Sir Stafford Northcote, who were playing together, when Mr. Dowrish, thinking he had won the game, betted the manor of and lost it. The Northcotes hold it at the present time. The marble table was made to commemorate the eventand Downes (CoL Duller), where there is a good collection of the works of modem English artists. BRANCH ROUTE—CREDITON TO TIVERTON, 12 miles. We cross the Greedy—Creedy Park lying on our left —and soon afterwards pass to the left of Shobrook, the 58 EXETER SECTION. native parish and patrimonial estate of the Bodleys. The Church is neat and simple. The rectory is attached to the see of Exeter. Two miles beyond, we pass through Stocklet Pomeroy, one of the ancient estates of the powerful family of Pomeroy, and in due time reach Cad- bury Castle, a British camp on a lofty and lonesome hill, which was occupied by Fairfax and his troops in Decem- ber 1645. The old rhyme runs— “ If Cadbury and Dolbury dolven were, All England might plough with a golden share.” Dolbury is a camp-crowned hill, 4 miles south-east, across the Exe. It is said that in the bosom of these hills a vast treasure is hidden, and guarded by a fiery dragon who, at “ the mid-hour of night,” may be seen on his flight from one to the other, keeping an eternal and untiring watch. . Soon we descend into the beautiful vale of Bickleigh. Bickleigh is perched upon a narrow and lofty ridge, between two deep, shadowy vales, while all around rise gentle hills clothed in luxuriant verdure. Bickleigh Church, with its gray tower, is, for many a mile, a notable landmark. Bickleigh Court is now a farmhouse of con- siderable pretensions, with a Norman chapel adjoining. It was for years the ancestral seat of the Carews, and here was born the eccentric Bampfylde Moore Carew, in 1690, who, after a life of singular romance as king of the gipsies, and grandmaster of the honourable fraternity of the beggars, returned home to die in 1758. His tomb stands in the churchyard. At Bickleigh the Exe receives the waters of a small but rapid tributary, the Dart, whose course lies through a narrow and romantic glen from its very birthplace. CKEDITON TO TIVERTON. Descending into the fertile lowlands, and keeping as near as may be to the pleasant Exe—the hills on our left rising to a considerable elevation—we pass by sundry clusters of Devonshire cottages, by smiling hedgerows and broad rich meads, into Tiverton. Here, at the base of a well-wooded acclivity, and facing the shimmering waters of the river, stands Collipriest House (E. Carew, Esq.). The mansion is plain, consisting of a centre with pro- jecting wings, but very pleasantly situated; an ample lawn sloping down to the river-bank; an amphitheatre of magnificent trees sweeping gradually around it. From the Temple of Apollo, which forms the termination of a fine avenue of elms on Collipriest Hill, an extended panorama of Tiverton and its neighbourhood may be enjoyed. (For Tiverton, see p. 53.) The railway now runs through a fertile country well studded with farms and villages, and affording numerous glimpses of the real Devonshire cottage,—that is to say, an oblong building, with a thatched roof, and walls of clay, loam, and straw (locally called cob), standing in its own little nook of garden ground, and garlanded about its diamond-paned lattices with roses, eglantine, and jessa- mine. Yeoford Junction (small inn) is only noteworthy as the point at which the main line of the South-Western to Plymouth diverges from the North Devon route. The latter, for the rest of its course, is a single line. Near the Junction we notice on the left hand the tower of Cole- brook Church, and a couple of miles further run into the Copplestone Station, from whence Copplestone may be visited for the sake of its ancient Cross, about 12 feet high, and decorated with rude ornamental scrolls; and EXETER SECTION. Bow, 3 miles west, in the heart of a very agreeable land- scape. The next station is Morchard Road, 11 mile. Morh ard Bishop lies 2 miles to the right. Three miles further, and we come to Lapeord, where we cross a tributary of the Taw, and wind through a valley of exquisite fertility. Denridge and Pidley, the seats of the Radford and St. Leger families, have met with the common fate of the Elizabethan manorial haRs, and been converted into sub- stantial farmhouses. Each commands a good river view, and, like most of the mansions of the time, occupies low ground. Coleridge, which gives name to a famous Devonshire family, is situated 4 miles left. The Church is one of unusual interest: a fine Perpendicular screen, and the figure of an armed knight, one John Evans, d. 1514, should be carefully examined. At 4j miles we reach the little Eggesford Station, constructed, we presume, for the convenience of the Earl of Portsmouth, whose seat (Howard House) is situated on the left, near Wemworthy. Eggesford Manor belongs to the Earl of Portsmouth. The Church is old, but presents little to call for notice. Close to the station is the Fox and Hounds Inn. The country about here is richly wooded. Either from Eggesford, or the Road (Fortescue Arms Inn) (2j miles)—the latter is the more convenient—we may gain the pretty little market town of (Inn: King’s Arms; Population, 1500), situated on the old Roman road, near the confluence of the Taw and Little Dart. Colonel Okey here defeated, in 1645, a body of Roundhead soldiers. The neighbour- CBEDITON TO TIVERTON. 61 hood is a very pleasant one. Attention may be drawn to the Jacobean house of Colleton Barton, and the quaint Elizabethan mansion, Leigh House. The course of the Little Dart should be followed as far as East Worling- ton, passing the ruins of Aston or Afton Castle, formerly the stately stronghold of the Devonshire Stukeleys, and restored by Sir George Stukeley. There are some notice- able memorials in the Churches both of East and West WORLINGTON. South Molton Road Station is nine smiles from the town of South Molton,* which is on the Devon and Somerset line. We continue side by side with the Taw to the Portsmouth Arms, and hereabouts the valley narrows, and becomes closely confined amid the hills through which it turns this way and that till Umberleigh Station is reached. Here, amid such sylvan scenery as the name seems to imply, we cross the river. A long mile west of the station is the small village of Atherington, with a fine Early English Church, containing some effigies of the fifteenth century, a remarkable screen, and some good stained glass. The Church of , 2 miles east of Umberleigh, has a remarkably fine Perpendicular tower, with turrets and battlements characteristic of that par- ticular style. Continuing along the course of the Taw from Umber- leigh, we pass Chapelton Station, between which and Barnstaple, on the left of the line, are the finely-timbered grounds of Court (Sir H. B. Wrey, Bart.). The house is modem ; the only remnant of the old mansion of Earl* About Fortescue, 3 miles Castle to the Hill, N.W. situate of South in a nobleMolton park. is the handsome seat of 62 EXETEE SECTION. the Bourchiers, occupied by Fairfax in 1646, being a gateway. Opposite to Tawstock, on the right of the line, is Bishops Tawton, reputed to have been at one time the seat of the Bishops of Devonshire. The Church contains some old armour, and memorials to the Bourchiers and the Chichesters. Two miles further we reach Barnstaple, obtaining, as we approach the station, a capital view of the town across the river. ^ (For Barnstaple itself, the surrounding country, and the route on to Bideford and Torrington, see “ North Devon Section.”) EXETER TO OKEHAMPTON AND HOLSWORTHY, FOR . Exeter46 m.;to Teoford Stratton, Junction, 54 m.; Bude,11$ m.; 56 m.Okehampton, 26 m.; Holsworthy, The whenceLondon there and isSouth-Western communication Railway by coach extends with Budeas far once as Holsworthy,a day during The thetrains season. start from Queen Street, Exeter, most of them forming a con- The tinuation,route, as farwithout as Teoford change Junction, of carriage, is fully of London described expresses. on pp. 55-59. Yeopord Junction (Inn), is only noteworthy as the point of divergence of the North Devon line to Barn- staple. An omnibus runs from it on certain afternoons in the week to Chagford (10 m.), and pedestrians may make their way from it to the same place by (p. 160) and the beautiful defile of the Teign, which the omnibus route misses. The first half of the way, however, lacks interest, and, from the multiplicity of byroads is, EXETEE TO OKEHAMPTON, ETC. 63 difficult to find. It is better to visit Fingle Bridge speci- ally from Chagford. ' From Yeoford our route, proceeding due west, com- mences at once the long climb which continues, with here and there a break, to the Junction for Hols worthy, beyond Okehampton. The scenery at first is tame and rather poverty-stricken. After passing Bow, the next station, we obtain, on the left hand, our first glimpse of Dartmoor. Cawsand Beacon, which has gained some note from its position as an outpost of the moor,—though it is an exceedingly uninteresting-looking hill, more “ like a whale” than anything else,—is the first to strike the eye, and on its right is the rugged Tor. The next station is , a small country town, with a Perpendicular Church, barely visible on the right. There is an inn at the station. A short distance further we cross the infant Taw, the first and one of the most important of that countless family of streams which Dartmoor sends out in all direc- tions to irrigate the county. Its nursery is a long and lonely valley between Cawsand and Belstone Tor. The view now increases in extent and interest In clear weather we can see right away over the lower loamy hills of to the long ridge of Exmoor. The Church, with the lofty tower on the same side, is . Turning southwards, and drawing nearer to Dartmoor, we cross the East Okement, and then, climbing more steeply than ever, reach Okehampton (Refreshment Room on up platform). The town (p. 150) lies far below on the right, and, looked at from the railway, certainly does not merit the sweeping criticism passed upon it by Kingsley. EXETER SECTION. “ Ugly,” “ dirty,” and “ stupid,” are the epithets in which that writer indulges. Close to it the East and West Oke- ment unite their waters. Behind it is Okehampton Hall, an impressive-looking mansion, and beyond it, the simple, ivy-crowned ruins of the Castle form perhaps the most picturesque feature in a scene of considerable beauty. Okehampton is the best starting-point for exploring the northern part of Dartmoor (see “ Dartmoor Section ”). Eight miles north of Okehampton is the small town of (Inn: The George; Pop. 1600), which has a stately and commodious Perpendicular Church, with a fine roof of ribbed oak. A coach runs to it every after- noon, returning in the morning ; the route being for the first half of the way along the valley of the Okement, and the principal village passed . The district surrounding Hatherleigh is one of the least fertile and worst cultivated in Devon, and fully merits the memorable character bestowed upon it in the local quatrain,— “ The people are poor, As Hatherleigh moor; And so they have been, For ever and ever. ” We are now fairly on Dartmoor, and still rising, at a gradient of 1 in 58. The view on the left for some way beyond Okehampton consists of a bare hill-side—called Okehampton Park. But in about 3 miles there comes, without any forewarning, a sudden break, and from the top of an aerial viaduct we look down 160 feet into the valley of the West Okement, the most beautiful of the defiles by which the waters of Dartmoor escape north- wards. The bottom of the valley, close to the viaduct, is EXETER TO HOLSWORTHT, ETC. 65 marred by mining operations, but the view up it is very charming. Above-it, and almost close at hand, rises Yes Tor, the highest English ground south of the Lake Dis- trict, except in Derbyshire. The Dartmoor Tors have little beauty of outline to recommend them, and, except by locality, it is hard to distinguish one from the other. A little beyond the viaduct, and close to the summit- level of the line between Exeter and Plymouth, the Hols- worthy branch diverges to the right. For some distance it continues to rise, till in a few miles it commands a panorama of the district lying between Exmoor, Dartmoor, and the Cornish heights beyond Launceston. The most conspicuous amongst the last named is Brown Willy. Then descending to the diminutive village of Ashbury, containing Ashbury House, the seat of the Woollcombes, the line continues, without displaying any special feature of interest, past the little stations of and Duns- land Cross to its terminus at Holswofthy, entering the town by a long and lofty viaduct. Holsworthy(Hotels: Stanhope Arms; New; White Hart) 218 miles from London, 25 miles from Barnstaple, and 46 miles from Exeter. There is little here to interest the tourist. The Church is Perpendicular, with some tolerable wood-carving, and an ancient font. The Labyrinth, “ a mighty maze (of beech trees), but not without a plan,” was formed by Earl Stanhope, lord of the manor. The town is but 4 miles distant from the Tamar, the boundary be, tween the two counties, and is therefore a convenient point from which to start on an exploration of that beautiful river. The road from Holsworthy to Bude passes through EXETER SECTION. rural scenery of no special interest. In about miles it crosses the Tamar and enters Cornwall. A remarkable physical peculiarity of the country hereabouts is that the watershed between the Bristol and English Channels is so far north-west as almost to overlook the former. Three miles beyond the county boundary we enter Stratton (Inn : The Tree), a village with nothing specially attractive. The Church is mainly Early English, and contains a stately tomb to Sir John Arundell, Knight, his wife, and their thirteen children. The brasses are good. Two miles beyond Stratton we enter the favourite watering-place of Bude (Hotels : Falcon, Bade, Globe), for a description of which see Cornwall Guide. TORQUAY SECTION.

This section comprises the district situate between Exeter, Dawlish, Teignmouth, Torquay, and Dart- mouth, served by the South Devon Railway. TORQUAY SECTION. EXETER TO DARTMOUTH. Exeter (St. David’s) to Star Cross,m 8J m.; Dawlish, 12J m.; Teignmouth, Dartmouth,15 m.; Newton 35 m. Abbot, 201 - J Torquay, 26 m.; , 34J m.; Quitting St. David’s Station, we at once cross the Exe, and pass through the “ transpontine ” part of Exeter called St. Thomas’s. From Exminster, a small village, 5 miles on our way, Topsham (p. 44) may be seen on the far side of the river, which here widens out into its estuary. The large building on the right is the County Lunatic Asylum. The prospect on the same side extends to the long and level ridge of Great Haldon, which to a fair pedestrian offers a delightful walk from any station between Exeter and Newton Abbot (see p. 41). Two miles beyond Exminster we pass on the right hand the Church, Castle, and Park of Powderham. The Park, which slopes upwards from the level strath of the Exe, is extensive, and beautifully wooded. Admission is readily granted. Powderham Castle, the seat of the Earl of Devon, was originally founded by its Norman lord, and re- modelled and strengthened in the fourteenth century. Leland describes it as a stout fortress, “ with a barbican, or bulwark, to beat the haven,” and during the Civil War it withstood two sieges—surrendering, on the last occasion, to Sir Hardress Waller, the Parliamentarian leader, March 1646. It retains something of its mediaeval character, but has been greatly modernised. Among the art-treasures are—the Five Senses, by Teniers; Tribute Money, by Rubens; Charles I. and Henrietta Maria, VandycJc; and several charming specimens of our English Wilson. Admis- DAWLISH. sion to the house is only granted when the family are from home. The station for Powderham is , whence take the road to the little village of Kenton, ij mile distant, a little short of which is the entrance to the Park. Stakcross (Hotel: Courtenay Arms; Railway Inn) is a semi-watering-place, quiet and pleasant, but too much within the estuary of the Exe to suit the tastes of those who really want the sea. It used to be celebrated for its shell-fish and oysters. Prom it the traveller may ferry over to Exmouth, 1^ mile distant. Beyond Starcross the line skirts on the left hand The Warren, a stretch of sand extending a long mile across the estuary in the direction of Exmouth. The latter favourite watering-place presents its full face to us, and then we come within earshot of the plash of the genuine sea-wave a few yards short of Langstone Point, whence the line runs between the sea-wall on the left, and red cliffs on the right, to. DAWLISH Hotels: Eoyal, London, Albert. 206 m. from fromLondon; Torquay 12 m. by from rail, Exeter;12 m. by 3 road. m. from Pop. Teignmouth; 4000. 14 m. This deservedly favourite sea-side resort lies in a cove formed by the projecting headlands of Langstone Cliff on the north, and the Parson and Clerk rocks on the south, and may fairly be characterised as one of the pleasantest places on the Devon coast. Through the bosom of the valley which here opens out upon the sea runs a crystal rivulet, spanned by numerous bridges, and lined on each side by a broad border of smooth greensward. Above 70 TORQUAY SECTION. runs a row of houses and shops, many of them in their own snug little plots of garden-ground ; on the hill-slopes beyond are perched numerous fantastic villas, and the Strand and the Teignmouth road are gay with terraces, hotels, and “marine mansions.” In the Strand, and up the valley towards what is called “ Dawlish waters,” the climate has an almost Italian geniality, and the tender myrtle, the soft hydrangea, and other delicate plants, bloom freely in the open air. The best houses, however, which stand on the east and west cliffs, are considerably exposed in winter. The bathing at Dawlish is excellent; and a long and exhilarating walk can be obtained along the firm sand beach, past the rabbit warren, and on to the mouth of the Exe, a distance of about two miles. Beautiful drives also may be taken up the valley, at the back of the town, past the church and between rows of elm-trees, to the summit of Great or Little Haldon, where extensive views will repay the visitor. A specially beautifully one over the Teign estuary is obtained at a turn in the road about half way up Little Haldon. The Parish Church of Dawlish stands about half a mile west of the town. It was rebuilt from Mr. Patey’s designs, in 1824-5, and contains two monuments by Elaxman—to Lady Elizabeth Pennyman and Mrs. Chapman. There is a modern Church of St. Mark in the town, and a Gothic Chapel. About ij mile from Dawlish Station, and on the side of the road to Little Haldon, are the beautiful grounds of Luscombe. They contain a private Chapel built by Sir Gilbert Scott. The public are not admitted. A very pleasant walk may be enjoyed by continuing on this road TEIGNMOUTH. 71 to the summit of the Little Haldon Ridge, and dropping thence to Teignmouth. Distance, 6 to 7 miles. A mile and a half beyond Dawlish are the fancifully- named Parson and Clerk Rocks, two stacks of red sand- stone which still hold their own against the buffeting of the waves, though the softer rock around them has been washed away for centuries. All about here the cliffs have been worn and hollowed out by wave and weather in a most picturesque fashion. After leaving Dawlish, the railway, still hugging the coast, passes through four short tunnels, immediately beyond the last of which it enters TEIGNMOUTH. Hotels: Royal, London, Levon, Queen's, Street's Family and Commercial. 209 m. from London; 15 m.Pop. from 7100. Exeter ; 11 m. from Torquay. Teignmouth is strikingly placed at the extremity of the north side of the Teign estuary. The beauty of the posi- tion is greatly enhanced by the steep and richly-clothed promontory, called the Ness, which sinks to the water’s edge on the opposite side. There is a good beach for bathing, except that when the east wind blows the breakers become dangerous. The great attraction of the town is the Den (or dune), a sand- bank between it and the sea, which, after remaining for many years a barren and unsightly waste, was formed into a lawn and promenade. At its western extremity stands a small lighthouse. An elegant affords agree- able facilities for promenading, and an agreeable walk may be taken along the sea-wall reaching almost to the Parson and Clerk Rocks. 72 TORQUAY SECTION. Another local curiosity is the wooden Bridge which connects Teignmouth with the village of , on the other side of the river. It was built in 1825-7, from the designs of Roger Hopkins, at a cost of £20,000, and measures 1672 feet in length, and consists of thirty-four arches. It is the longest wooden bridge in England. Over the main channel is thrown a swing bridge, which admits of vessels ascending or descending the river. The view from this point, when the tide is up, is much to be admired : —“ The richly-wooded valley through which the broad stream winds is backed by hills, receding behind each other, till the distance is closed by the lofty Tors of Dart- moor. Looking downwards, the river, with Teignmouth on one side and Shaldon on the other, is singularly pic- turesque ; and it is still finer and more remarkable if beheld on a bright night, when the full moon is high over the distant sea, and sends a broad path of lustre along the river, which appears like a lake closed in by the sandbank that then seems to be united to the opposite Ness,—and the white houses that lie within reach of the moon’s beams shine out in vivid contrast to the masses of intense shadow.”—(Thorne.) The Churches of Teignmouth are not attractive. St. James’s dates from 1805. St. Michael’s has a Norman south doorway, but otherwise is to be attributed to the skill and taste of a certain Mr. Patey (1831). The Public Rooms, consisting of a large ball-room, billiard-rooms, libraries, etc., form a handsome building, with an Ionic pediment and Doric colonnade, in the centre of the crescent on the Den. The history of Teignmouth is quickly told. It furnished 7 ships and 120 men towards the expedition against TEIGNMOUTH. 73 Calais in 1347. It was burnt in 1340 and 1350 by French rovers, and in 1690 by M. de Tourville’s fleet after their victory at Beachy Head. 116 houses and 11 ships and barks were then destroyed. The total loss was computed at £11,000, and “ briefs ” were read in every church in England on behalf of the inhabitants. French Street, by its name, perpetuates the memory of this disaster. Excursions from Teignmouth.—The most tempting walk from Teignmouth is the ascent of Little Haldon, about 3 miles distant and 800 feet high. Thence you may wander at will, and descend either to Dawlish in one direction, or to King’s Teignton and Newton Abbot Station. The Belvedere Tower on the summit of Great Haldon (p. 42) is about 8 miles beyond the top of Little Haldon. Teignmouth to Torquay by the coast road (9 m.) A delight- ful walk, especially if you take your time over it and visit Babbicombe Bay and Anstey’s Cove on the way. Cross the bridge, or ferry across the stream (saving a mile) to the village of Shaldon, whence it is a sharp climb till the road attains a level considerably above the cliffs. As you proceed, a beautiful peep reveals itself down a valley on the right, containing the villages of Stoke and Combe in Teignhead. In the distance are the bare slopes of Dartmoor. Then there is nothing of special interest, except to those who scramble up and down by the verge of the cliffs till you reach St. Mary Church, a suburb of Torquay, but a parish and town of itself. (Hotel: Brealey's Family.) Turning to the left at the far end of this you reach the long terrace overlooking Babbicombe Bay, which, as well as the road between it and Torquay, will be described under the heading of that town. Some distance short of Babbicombe the red sandstone of the cliffs has changed to variegated limestone. Delightful boating excursions either up the river or round the cliffs may also be made from Teignmouth. From Teignmouth the railway skirts the Teign estuary, affording beautiful views of the luxuriant shores opposite, to 74 TORQUAY SECTION. NEWTON ABBOT. Hotels: Globe, Commercial, Queen’s, Bradley. 214 m. from London; 20 m.Pop. from 7662. Exeter; 6 m. from Torquay. This is a considerable town, and the most important station on the South Devon line between Exeter and Plymouth, being the junction both for the Torquay line and for Moreton Hampstead. It is situated on the Lemon, a small tributary of the Teign, in the heart of a fertile and richly-cultivated district. The town has largely increased of late years, and the hill-sides around are dotted with picturesque villas. The real name of the parish is Wolborough, and the Parish Church stands on a knoll, a little to the left of the Totnes Road, about half a mile from the town. It is a plain Perpendicular building, with a good south door; some carved oak on screen and pews ; a richly-ornamented Norman font; much excellent stained glass, emblazoning scutcheons of Nevil Montague, Monthermer, and Courtenay; and a marble tomb with canopied effigies to Sir Richard Regnele of Ford (died 1633), and the Lady Lucy his wife. High- week Church, which stands on a hill to the right of the Bovey Road nearly a mile from the town, contains some fine windows. From the Woodborough and Highweek Hills views of great beauty and extent are obtained. The delight- ful Bradley Woods are within a mile of Newton Abbot. Bradley House is, or rather was, a fortified mansion. Ford House, close to the station, a former seat of the Earl of Devon, was erected, temp. James I., by Sir Richard Reynell, belonging to the house of Ogwell, whose daughter and heiress Jane brought it as her dowry to NEWTON ABBOT. 75 Sir . Their daughter and heiress, Mar- garet, married Sir William Courtenay, a direct ancestor of the present proprietor, the Earl of Devon. It occupies a picturesque situation in the centre of a considerable lawn, which has at its eastern extremity a broad sheet of water. Here William of Orange established his head- quarters for two days when he passed through Newton Abbot on his march from in November 1688. A stone still preserved in Wolborough Street marks the spot where his declaration was solemnly read to the people. William’s army was encamped on Milber Down, 1J mile east, where there exists a Roman Camp, defended by stout triple vallum and fosse, and further protected at some distance by a later Danish entrenchment of circular form. Down, miles south-west, above the village of Denbury, is also crowned by an elliptical camp. Two miles south of Newton stands Haccombe House (the Misses Carew), built during the last century on the site of a very ancient mansion, which had in turn be- longed to the Haccombes, Archdecknes, Courtenays, and Carews. The adjacent Chapel is dedicated to St. Blaize. The two horse-shoes on its door perpetuate the memory of the of that Carew who swam his horse some distance out to sea and back again to land for the wager of a “ fat manor.” Between Newton Abbot and Torquay the course of the railway is mostly between hills of moderate height, and calls for no special description. There are two stations for Torquay,—first, that of Torre, and, f of a mile farther, that of Torquay. The former is at the N.W. and upper part of the town, while the latter is near the edge of the bay, at the west end of the Marine Parade called Torbay 76 TOKQUAY SECTION. Road, about f of a mile from the limit of the town. There is an hotel close to the station. TORQUAY. Hotels: Imperial, (with ornamental grounds), on a height overlooking the bay;Queens, Torbay, Soyal, Torbayboth in Road;the Strand; Victoria Union, and UnionAlbert, Street;Belgrave Railway, Road; Privateclose Hotels: to the TorquayCumper's, Station. Torbay Road; Osborne House, Hesketh Terrace; Post-Office,Atkinson's, Torwood Belgrave Street. Road. DistancesExeter, ; London,26 m.; Dartmouth,by G.-W. R. 9 220 m.; m.; 2J 51 hours hours from (197by Bristol, L. and and S.-W. 5 fromR.); Population,Birmingham. 24,767. This celebrated watering-place occupies the northern comer of Tor Bay, and is securely sheltered from all winds but that from the south-east. It is a town of villas, which, amphitheatre-like,■ stretch from the shore in terraces up to the higher grounds overlooking the sea. The Harbour or Basin is a noteworthy feature of the place, and has re- cently been much improved in appearance and rendered more useful to the town. The parades around it are spacious and well adapted for promenades. The best views of the town are to be had from the end of the pier, from Daddy Hole Plain above the Basin, or from , on the opposite side of the bay. The former will give the stranger the best bird’s-eye view of the various terraces and villas, while the latter affords the most extensive panorama of the town and bay. A drive to Watcombe and Babbicombe, returning by the New Cut, affords some very fine sea-views. To the invalid, Torquay has many attractions. There is a cheerfulness in its general aspect that impresses the

A TORQUAY. 77 visitor favourably at first sight. If there is sun at all it is sure to bask on the villa terraces of Torquay; while the expanse of sea that stretches out in front gives an appearance of life to the prospect. In the way of recrea- tions there is no lack. These include a Natural History Museum, Libraries, a new Theatre, Tennis and Racquet Courts,—and during the season both concerts and balls are held in the Bath Saloon. Regattas take place in summer, while the bay and harbour afford perfect security for the use of small boats. The public gardens on the Torwood Road, which include four acres of land, are tastefully laid out in walks and shrubberies. The neighbourhood abounds with pleasant rambles, which can be enjoyed almost all the year round ; for in fact there is little winter here, and the pedestrian may pick up wild flowers in the month of February. The climate of Torquay is peculiar. On the shore it is soft and relaxing ; but on the rising ground around the harbour, and at St. Mary’s Church, the atmosphere though mild is at the same time bracing. An invalid, therefore, should be careful in selecting his lodgings. We give here a table of the mean temperature at certain stations, the result of 24 years ending 1880:— 78 TORQUAY SECTION. But as, to the invalid, it is of more importance to know the difference between the greatest heat and the greatest cold during the day, we give below a table compiled from the Registrar’s Reports for the winter and spring months of the three years 1878-1881 of the following places, where it will he observed that Torquay holds a not unfavourable position:— Mean Daily Range op Temperature.

Underneath is another compilation from the Meteoro- logical Reports for the three years 1878-81, where Torquay appears to have a larger number of rainy days and a greater fall than most of the other districts enumerated:— Rainfall—I. Days it fell; II. Quantity in inches.

The only branches of industry with which Torquay concerns itself are the working of Devonshire marble and the production of terra-cotta. The material for the latter is obtained from Watcombe. The tourist should visit the Torquay Museum, Babba- combe Road, which contains «an interesting collection of the animals and sea-weeds of Devonshire. Here also the TORQUAY. results of Mr. Pengelly’s excavations at Kent’s Cavern are exhibited. The cavern itself is about a mile farther on, and a small charge is made for admission. Entrance is obtained through a low and narrow passage, 7 feet wide, 5 feet high, into a vast cavern, said to be 600 feet in length. A labyrinth of smaller caverns and winding corridors sur- rounds it. The roofs glitter -with stalactites, formed by the dripping of water charged with lime, and the flooring is covered with a shining but slippery coating of stalag- mite. A sombre pool of water—deep, dark, and cold— terminates the cavern. It was in this curious recess that Dr. Buckland discovered the bones of the rhinoceros and elephant, the lion, wolf, bear, and hyena—beasts of prey which haunted the gloomy forests of prehistoric England until extirpated by the hardy Celts. These fossils cover the bed of the cavern to a depth of 20 feet, and are over- laid by a layer of stalagmite. Mingled with them lay arrow-heads and spear-heads—those rude, iron implements which antiquarians have named Celts—charcoal, fragments of coarse pottery, and knives of flint At Ilsham, close to Kent’s Cavern, are some scanty ruins of a grange-chapel formerly belonging to Tor Abhey. The farm was once a residence of the Earl of Londonderry. Torre Abbey (R. S. S. Cary, Esq.) lies to the west of Torquay, a handsome modern mansion, rejoicing in the shade of some noble limes. In the gardens stand the ivy-shrouded ruins of the old Prsemonstratensian Abbey, founded by William de Bruere in 1196, and dedicated to St Saviour, which was undoubtedly the wealthiest priory belonging to that order in England. The refectory is now converted into a domestic chapel; and a gateway also remains, and a bam. The style of architecture seems to 80 TORQUAY SECTION. be that which is known as Decorated, but there is very little left to satisfy the antiquarian’s curiosity. The ancient village of Tor-Mohun contains a fine old Perpendicular Church, the mother-church of Torquay. The memorials are principally to the Carys, temp. James L, but an effigy in full armour commemorates Ridgway, father of the first Earl of Londonderry. The octagonal font is Perpendicular. The west tower is embattled. Several of the modern churches and chapels, belonging to the various religious denominations, are architecturally worthy of the general character of the town. Chief amongst them is the Church of St John, looking down upon the Basin from the rising ground behind. It is Early English in style. Towards Babbacombe the botanist will meet with—Actinia crassicomis, Actinia nivia, and Actinia mesembryanthemum; Tortula tortiosa and didymum ; Rhodymenia palmata; Lamin- aria digitalis and saccharina ; Eolis coronato ; Delesseria san- guinea ; Laurenti pinnatifida ; and Plocamium coccineum. Along the beach, towards Paignton, the geologist may look for Echinus miliaris, Trochus ziziphinus, Asterrina gibbosa, Doris pilosa, Pholas parva, Pholas dactylus, and Anthea cereus. The cliffs, mainly composed of red sandstone or red con- glomerate, are low, but abrupt, precipitous, and wave-worn into countless fissures, caves, and ravines. VICINITY OF TORQUAY. [Anstey’s Cove, Babbacombe Bay, and St. Mary Church.] The sweetest little inlet between Teignmouth and Dart- mouth is Anstey’s Cove. The wider one of Babbacombe Bay immediately to the north of it is also a charming locality, and the two together are the natural “ lions ” of VICINITY OF TORQUAY. 81 the most delightful ramble that can be taken from Torquay. To reach Anstey’s Cove one may either proceed up the Tor Wood and Babbicombe road, turning to the right a little short of St. Matthias’ Church and passing Kent’s Hole, or the Meadfoot road may be followed to the sands of the same name, alongside of which a new road has been made protected by an enormously strong sea-wall. The former is the nearer route, and brings the visitor to the the first object of his walk in less than a couple of miles from the Strand. Anstey’s Cove is a deep and rugged recess in the cliffs, wrought out probably by the action of water and conse- quent subsidence of land. On either hand are scattered bold, richly-tinted rocks. To the left a promontory of hardest marble has been rent by the sea into several jagged peaks, over which the ivy and the lichen clamber; on the right rises a lofty hill covered with coppice and brushwood. The vegetation of the under-cliff is of the most varied and luxuriant description, thoroughly characteristic of the south coast of Devon, and distinguishing it from the wilder though not less beautiful north coast scenery. A great charm of the cliff scenery immediately north-* of Torquay arises from the richness and variety of its colour- ing. The rocks, with the variegated tints of marble, lime- stone, and shale ; the sea blue or green, as the case may be, with its little belt of shining yellow sand ; the ferns, wild-flowers, and plants which occupy every possible nook or cranny ;—all contribute to this effect. The notice board inviting visitors to tea and crumpets in this Arcadian re- treat is a curiosity of literature. From Anstey’s Cove it is not a mile, either by the shady lane, or by a path over the cliffs, to Babbacombe. On the TORQUAY SECTION. left of the road, rising above a cincture of varied foliage is Bishopstowe, an Italianesque mansion, formerly the marine residence of the late . Babbicombe has become a suburb of Torquay, from the centre of which it is not more than two miles distant. A little way behind the hedge of the lofty cliff which overlooks the bay, and separated from it by a wide green promenade, runs a line of villas, with a good hotel—the Royal—in the midst of them. The situation is much more bracing than that of the greater part of Torquay, and to many people the comparative quiet will be an addi- tional recommendation. There is a road down to the shore of the bay, on which is the Carey Arms, a rustic little inn, in the most romantic of situations, and with an exterior to match. The bay itself is something like Anstey’s Cove, with its arms spread out, and its bosom exposed to a much wider expanse of open sea. The colouring and vegetation are very much the same, but the open character of the scene, and the villas and other signs of human activity which appear all around, rob it of the almost perfect seclusion which characterises the smaller inlet. The sea-view from Babbacombe down in front of the line of villas extends eastwards to Lyme Eegis. At the north end of the bay is the little port called Petit Tor. Hereabouts the variegated limestone and marble of the cliffs gives place to the glowing red sand- stone which continues northwards to Dawlish. Turning inland we enter at once the chief part of St. Mary Church (Hotel, Brealey's Family; Pop. 5800), a town whose rapid growth is as remarkable as that of Tor- quay, of which it is a residential suburb. It contains large marble works wherein the visitor may inspect all the COCKINGTON AND COMPTON CASTLE. ' many and wonderful varieties of Devonshire marble. The Church rises finely from the centre of the town. There is also a handsome Koman Catholic Chapel. The return route to Torquay may he varied by taking a footpath over Warberry Hill, whence there is a wide and beautiful view. St. Mary Church is less than 7 miles south of Teign- mouth, by a road which continues near hut not on the edge of the cliffs all the way, and is described the reverse way on page 73. COCKINGTON AND COMPTON CASTLE. Cockington, with its Perpendicular Church, lies inland about a mile beyond the Torquay Station ; and between 2 and 3 miles further, 1 mile beyond the high-road from Newton Abbot to Dartmouth, are the ruins of Compton Castle, an ancient seat of the Poles, and one of the finest examples of a fortified house in the west of England; part of the chapel and a gateway tower (fourteenth century) remain. This walk may he continued to Berry Pomeroy Castle (3 m., p. 97) and village (p. 97). A short 2 miles beyond the latter is Totnes, whence a return may be made by train, or, if not too late in the day, the steam-packet taken down the river to Dartmouth. TORQUAY TO KINGSWEAR AND DARTMOUTH For the first 4 miles the railway follows more or less faithfully the shore line of Torbay, that famous harbour which is big enough to shelter a navy, though, with a gale 84 TOEQUAY SECTION. blowing from the east or south-east, its roadstead is to be avoided. Tor Bay is rich in historical memories, and in itself is one of the finest and most beautiful bays around the whole English coast. From north to south it stretches 4 miles, its coast line measures 12 miles, and its depth, in the centre, 3^ miles. On the north side, beneath its protecting hills, nestles Torquay ; at the south extremity Brixham and its fishing-fleet lie under the shadow of the ' lofty promontory of Berky Head. When the Bellerophon lay here with Napoleon on board (July 1815), the great soldier exclaimed, “ How beautiful a country! It very closely resembles Porto Ferrajo in Elba!” Earl St. Vin- cent frequently brought his fleet hither, and on November 5, 1688, William Prince of Orange anchored in the noble haven. “ Since William looked upon it,” exclaims Lord Mac- aulay, “ its aspect has greatly changed. The amphitheatre which surrounds the spacious basin now exhibits every- where the signs of prosperity and civilisation. At the north-east extremity has sprung up a great watering-place, to which strangers are attracted from the most remote parts of our island by the Italian softness of the air ; for in that climate the myrtle flourishes unsheltered, and even the winter is milder than the Northumbrian April” —Macaulay’s History of England, Chapter ix. Two miles (by rail) beyond Torquay, and at the centre of the long drawn arc of the bay, stands Paignton (Hotels : Gerston, Esplanade, etc. ; Pop. 4610), another rapidly in- creasing watering-place, with extensive sands. It is a kind of dependence of Torquay, of which town there is an admirable view across the water. Near the old and capacious Church—a Perpendicular building, dedicated TORQUAY TO KINGSWEAR AND DARTMOUTH. 85 to St John, which contains a Norman doorway, a triple- arched screen of stone, and a statued tomb to Sir John Kirlcham and his wife—moulder the ruins of a palace of the Bishops of Exeter, where the good Miles Coverdale frequently resided. A tower and some gray old walls are the remains of its ancient glory. Paignton should he visited in the apple-blossoming season, for the cider-apple is largely cultivated in the neighbourhood. Cider is manufactured here in consider- able quantities, and the town is provided with a pier which*" affords depth of water for vessels of 200 tons burthen. A couple of miles beyond Paignton the railway leaves the shores of Torbay and ascends the slight ridge between it and the Dart. At Churston Station, 5 m. from Torquay, the short line to Brixham (2 m.) strikes off on the left This line is carried along the elevated ground south of Tor- bay, and commands a very fine prospect across to Torquay. Brixham (Hotels: Bolton, Globe, Queen's; Pop. 7000).— This is one of the most important fishing stations in the south of England, and here the trawling system has been in practice for many years. The fishermen go to sea on Monday morning and remain at work till the following morning, when they return and land their fish. This goes on every day except Sunday, which is observed as a day of rest. The fishing ground resorted to by the Brixham boats extends from the Start Point past Torbay to the Bill of Portland, a stretch of about 60 miles. There are nearly 150 boats engaged in the industry. The town—a straggling and ungainly place'—is divided into the Upper Town, or Church Brixham, on the south side of Berry Head ; and the Lower Town, or Brixham Quay, upon the beach—“ a sort of Devonshire TORQUAY SECTION. Wapping with a Billingsgate smell.” The Church, in the Upper Town, one mile south of the quay, is a large ancient structure of the fourteenth century with a lofty though not elegant tower ; that in the Lower Town is an uninterest- ing production of the barbarous early part of the present century. The Pier was constructed in 1808, and a Break- water commenced in 1843, which we fear will never be completed. In the neighbourhood there are three bone caves—one at Windmill Hill, another called Ash Hole, and a third discovered in 1861, which was rich in fossils. It was at Brixham—as an obelisk in the market-place records—that William III. landed, November 5, 1688. The block of stone on which he first set foot is preserved in the base of the monument, and a fragment of it, en- closed in a box of heart of oak, was presented to William IV. on his visit here in 1823. Nearly two miles east of Brixham Quay is the bold headland which protects Torbay from the south, called Berry Head ; upon it are the remains of a fortification dating from the period of the long French wars. There is a good specimen of rock scenery on the road which goes nearest to the coast-line, across or by the head of several small coves, at Pudcombe Cove, nearly 5 miles south of the “ Quay.” Proceeding onwards the pedestrian may in another 2| miles reach Kings wear. The high road from Brixham Quay to Kingswear is 5 miles long. By descend- ing to the left, in about 3 miles, Kingswear may also be reached. MAIN ROUTE—Continued. Soon after quitting Churston Junction the railway affords a view up the winding channel of the Dart, to

KINGSWEAE DAKTMOUTH. 87 which it quickly descends. For the last two miles it skirts the river, and enters its terminus at KINGS WEAR. Hotel: The Royal Yachtstation, Club, 35 charmingly miles from situatedExeter. and entered from the This village is built on the hill-side exactly opposite Dart- mouth, of which it commands a full view. It is worth while to walk up the hill behind, past the Church. On the brow of it is an old redoubt, commanding the narrow entrance of the Dart. Passing from the station on to the steam ferry-boat we reach in a few minutes DARTMOUTH. Hotels: Castle, King’s Arms, Family and Commercial, tfr A boat to and from Totnes twice a day, according to tide. 206 m. from London ; 10 m. from Totnes ; 15 m. from Newton Abbot; 9 m. Population,from Torquay; 5725. 35 m. from Plymouth; 11 m. from Start Point. The town originally consisted of three independent hamlets, Clifton, Dartmouth, Hardnesse, and the first named is still an appendage of the parish of , the other two of the parish of Townstall. A market was granted to Dartmouth by Henry III., and the privilege of mayoralty by King John. In 1190 the town was visited by the Crusaders’ fleet, and stormed by the French during the absence of Richard I. in Palestine. In 1338 the Dartmouth mariners cap- tured five large French ships, and slew all their crew hut nine. In 1347 the port contributed 31 ships towards the memorable expedition against Calais, and thirty years TORQUAY SECTION. later was ravaged with fire and sword by the French. In 1403 a fleet of Dartmouth vessels engaged, captured, and destroyed 41 sail off the shores of France. It withstood a month’s siege hy Prince Maurice, September 3 to October 4, 1643, hut was finally compelled to surrender. Lord Fairfax recaptured it on a Sunday morning in the middle of January 1646. John Davis, the great Eliza- bethan navigator, sailed from here June 1585 in com- mand of the “ Sunshine,” 50 tons, and 23 men, and the “Moonshine,” 25 tons and 29 men; and again in May 1586 with the “ Sunshine,” the “ Moonshine,” and a large vessel of 120 tons called the “Mermaid.” In his third voyage, 1587, one of his ships was the “Elizabeth of Dartmouth.” St. Saviour’s Church is a fine cruciform building, of Edwardian architecture, possessing a very rich and beauti- ful interior, hut standing greatly in need of . It was consecrated by Bishop Brantingham. The oaken screen which formerly supported the rood-loft, and still separates the nave from the chancel, is graceful in design and execution. The pulpit of stone, elaborately enriched with wood-carvings, the misereres, the iron scroll-work on the great door, representing a spreading-tree with two leopards standing on its branches, and the altar-piece by Brockledon, are worthy of careful examination. A slab inlaid with rich canopies in brass, and figures of John Bawley, d. 1408, and his two wives, will recall the memory of that merchant knight who, in 1390, “waged the navie of shippes of the portes of his owne charges, and tooke foure and thirtie shippes laden with wine, to the summe of 1500 tunne.” He throve and prospered so with his wealth that men said of him,— DARTMOUTH. “ Blow the wind high, or blow it low, It bloweth fair to Hawley’s Hoe.” Dartmouth acquires that picturesqueness for which it is famous partly from the abruptness of the slope on which it is built, and partly from the style of the buildings them- selves. Looking upwards from the main street, it is a difficult ocular movement to see the next tier of houses above, and a fair athlete might almost make his way from the top to the bottom of the south part of the town by leaping from the ground floor of one tier into the attic of the next below. North of the pier a few hundred yards of comparatively level ground extend inland, and are utilised to form one of the principal streets. Only a few of the old picturesque gable-fronted houses remain—the principal row being in the Butterwalk ; but a modern and extremely handsome block of building a little south of the pier is a most satisfactory copy of the late Tudor domestic style. The ornamentation is profuse, but remark- ably tasteful. In the harbour, a little above the town, is the Britannia Floating Naval College. Near the entrance, and a long mile south of the landing stage, stands the small quaint Church of St. Petrock, and on a point of land below it Dartmouth Castle. Of its two towers the circular one dates from the reign of Henry VIII. The two platforms mount 12 guns. On the cliff stands a small fort called Gallant’s Bower, in allusion to the ancient entrenchments which surround it. Para- dise Fort is further east. Townstall, £ mile west, has a good old Church, dedicated to St. Clement, with a tower 70 feet high. It was fortified by the royalists during the Civil War with lORQUAY SECTION. 10 guns, and defended by 100 men. The ruins of Kings- wear Castle, on the north side of the harbour mouth, should be visited. Stoke Fleming, miles south-west, may be visited for its ancient Church, which contains two fine brasses. DARTMOUTH TO TOTNES, BY RIVER. Distance 10 m. Boat twice a day, according to tide. Time, hour. This makes a very pleasant aquatic excursion, especially for those who prize the sweet security of inland waters. Quitting Dartmouth, we pass close to the Britannia Training Ship. On the left an arm of the river reaches a mile or more inland, and on the right the railway fol- lows the shore line for some distance. On a promontory, just beyond the point where the line quits us to climb the narrow neck of land between the Dart and Torbay, the sylvan slopes of Greenway House descend to the water’s edge. Near this is the Anchor Stone, a rock which splits the channel into two currents, and is traditionally interest- ing as a spot whereon refractory wives were taught to “obey” their husbands, and Sir Walter Raleigh enjoyed his pipe. An echo may be awakened hereabouts. Opposite Greenway House we call at , an orchard-surrounded village, famous for its damson plums and cockles. Here the bed of the estuary suddenly expands to the width of a mile, forming on the right hand Galmpton Creek. Then, contracting again, it sweeps round to the left, revealing another part of Dittisham, opposite to which, a few hundred yards from the north bank, is Sandridge, the birthplace of the famous navi- gator, Davis. On the same side, a little further on, is DARTMOUTH TO SLAPTON SANDS AND . 91 Store Gabriel, with its ancient ivy-clad Church. On the opposite side is the long inlet called Bow Creek, beyond which we pursue a serpentine course, calling off the little hamlet of Dungannon on the right, and passing the beautifully-wooded banks of Sharpham on the left. This is the finest part of the Lower Dart. Beyond it the river resumes an almost straight course, affording good views of Totnes as we approach that town. DAETMOUTH TO SLAPTON SANDS AND KINGSBRIDGE. Dartmouth to Stoke Fleming, 21 m.; Slapton Sanaa Hotel, 61 m. ; Tor Crossoftener. Hotel, 8 m.; Kingsbridge, 15 m. Coaches once a day or This is a very interesting route, especially as far as Tor Cross, where it turns inland again, and does not come in sight of the sea again until it descends to the . Small villages and little inns abound on the way. The easiest road out of Dartmouth is that which ascends from the small inlet a little south of the town, whence it climbs a long hill, and continues along the high ground to Stoke Fleming (p. 90). As we descend from this village the long sweep of Start Bat appears in front, brought to an end by the lighthouse-crowned Start Point. After dropping to the sea-level at a little place called Blackpool, the road winds up again to Street, whence it descends again to the long straight beach called Slapton Sands. This remarkable beach consists of a belt of sand and gravel more than 2 miles in length, and rising onlya few feet above high-water mark. On the other side is an equally long sheet of fresh water called Slapton Lea, narrow at TORQUAY SECTION. first, but expanding to a breadth of from a quarter to half a mile—a favourite habitat of waterfowl, and abounding in fish. The village of Slapton is nearly a mile west, and behind the line of hill which rises from the water. The road traverses the beach from end to end, passing, about a third of the way along it, The Sands Hotel, and at its southern end, the Tor Cross Hotel. Both these houses are extensively patronised by visitors in the sum- mer, and afford good accommodation. The latter is the most convenient for those who wish to explore the Start, which may be reached in about 4 miles by a path alter- nately above and below the cliff. From Tor Cross, where the high cliffs recommence, the road sweeps round the “ Lea,” and for more than half a mile almost reverses its previous course. Then it turns inland, and passes on the right the Perpendicular ivy-clad Church of . Beyond this it passes through a pleasant inland district, teeming with orchards, and dotted with a succession of villages, one very like another, till a little beyond Charlton it reaches the sandy Kings- bridge estuary, the outlet of no river in particular, and at low tide almost innocent of water, skirting its ramify- ing shores as far as Kingsbridge itself. (For a description of the town and neighbourhood, see Plymouth Section.) PLYMOUTH SECTION.

This Section includes all that part of the county which lies between the southern verge of Dartmoor and the sea, the South- Hams, known as the “ Garden of Devon; ” also the picturesque strip of country watered by the Tavy and the Tamar, and lying between Plymouth, Tavistock, and Launceston. 94 PLYMOUTH SECTION. NEWTON ABBOT TO TOTNES AND PLYMOUTH, BY RAIL. Newton Abbot to Totnes, 9 m. ; Brent, 151 m.; Kingsbridge Road, Plymouth17J m.; Ivy (Mutley), Bridge, 31J 21 m.;m.; (NorthCornwood, Road), 23J 32 m.; (Millbay)Plympton, , 32*28 m.in.; The journey from Exeter to Newton Abbot has already been described in the previous section (p. 68). Between Newton Abbot and Totnes, the line, single in part, en- counters the severest gradients along the whole route, the heaviest being more than 1 in 50. The country traversed is, at first, hard limestone, which is extremely quarried. The summit-level is reached at Dainton Tunnel, whence it is downhill all the way to Totnes. Just before enter- ing the station we obtain a pretty view up and down the Dart from the bridge over that river. TOTNES. Hotels: Seymour, Seven Stars. Pop. 4089. Distances:mouth ; 20110 m.m. (by from road) London; from Torquay; 29 m. from 10 m. Exeter; from Dartmouth; 23* m. from 9* Ply- m. Steamersfrom Ashburtontwice a day ; during12 m. (bythe road)season from between Kingsbridge. Totnes and Dartmouth. _The town of Totnes, as is implied by its name, occupies a bold position on a hill which rises abruptly from the Dart. There is a tradition attested by a stone in Fore Street, on which the hero of it first set foot, that the town owes its name to the landing of a Trojan hero named Brutus, tohta and cesc signifying the leader and his ship. In any case it is one of the oldest towns in Devon. It is generally supposed to have been the Roman station Ad TOTNES. 95 Durium Amnem, on the road connecting Exeter with the Tamar. At the time of the Domesday Koll it belonged to Judhael de Totneis, who built a castle and founded a Benedictine monastery at it There are still traces of the walls which then surrounded it. From the time of Ed- ward I. to 1867, when it was disfranchised for corrupt purposes, it returned two members to Parliament A terrible storm—so destructive in its effects that it was popularly ascribed to the agency of the devil—occurred here on Sunday, October 21, 1638 ; but from the storms of the Civil War which broke out so soon afterwards the town appears to have suffered little. At the time of the Bevolution, Totnes distinguished itself by the ardour with which it embraced the cause of William of Orange, volun- tarily offering him a subsidy of 4s. in the pound land-tax, and even the remaining 16s. if his need should require it. A considerable woollen manufactory, and a still more considerable fishery, are now the principal support of the inhabitants of Totnes; but in the neighbourhood is a large store of chocolate and madrepore marbles, and the country is in a state of the highest cultivation. In the main street of Totnes there are buildings seven centuries old, forming piazzas. Besides these the chief objects of interest are the Church, the Castle, the Bridge, and such remains as are discernible of the old Roman road and the town ramparts. The Castle was built by the Norman, Judhael de Totneis. The keep is circular in form, constructed of red sandstone, and absolutely massed with ivy and creepers. The walls are surrounded by pleasant garden-grounds, to which the public' are admitted on application. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, and Perpendicular PLYMOUTH SECTION. in style, is built of red sandstone. Its erection, or restora- tion, is ascribed to Bisbop Lacey, 1432. The pulpit is richly carved, and the screen is very handsome. Both are of stone. On the north-east side formerly stood the Benedictine Priory of St. Mary’s. The Parochial Lib- rary contains a notable collection of the works of the Fathers, and of the ponderous folios of the seventeenth century divines. The Bridge, a handsome structure of stone, of three arches, was built in 1828 at a cost of £12,000, and con- nects Totnes with Bridgetown. A small island in the river, very agreeably planted, communicates with the bridge by means of a flight of stone steps. Below the bridge extends for some distance a delightful promenade. Neighbourhood op Totnes.—Dartington, a short 2 miles by footpath, quitting the Ashburton Road f of a mile N.E. of the town. Here are an old house and an old church, both eminently English, and both of unusual interest. The house embodies a portion of the old feudal mansion of the Hollands, Dukes of Exeter, and was built, as a sculptured escocheon shows, by the first of that ducal family in the reign of Richard II.. The Great Hall is 70 feet long by 40 feet broad, and was formerly 50 feet high: it is now unroofed. The fireplace might well afford suffi- cient warmth for so noble a chamber : its width is 16 feet. The kitchen and some of the outbuildings also remain. On the west side spreads a terraced garden, ordered in the Elizabethan style. The outer quadrangle, 245 feet by 157 feet, is in tolerable preservation; but of the inner court the relics are scanty. Near the house, which fell into the hands of the Champernownes in the reign of Elizabeth, stands the EXCURSIONS FROM TOTNES. 97 Church, dedicated to St. Mary. The visitor will observe its Tudor pulpit, its richly-carved oaken screen, the win- dows filled with deep-hued glass, and the monument to Sir Arthur Champernowne, died 1578, his wife, and seven children. About 1 mile beyond is Staverton Bridge, command- ing a fine view of the vale of the Dart, and close to Staver- ton Station on the Ashburton branch line. Berry Pomeroy, 2 m., and Castle, 3 m., east. The village of Berry Pomeroy lies on the road to Paignton and Torquay, and the Castle nearly a mile north of that road. To reach the latter take the road to the left, about J of a mile beyond the village, and you will soon gain sight of the Castle. Admission is free, but a small gratuity is expected. The ruins of this once stately strong- hold, erected in the days of the Conqueror by Ralph de Pomeroi, seem to hang upon the brink of a lofty cliff which starts up with picturesque boldness from the depths of a delightful valley. The descendants of the founder retained the lands, and mingled their names in song and legend, until they were forfeited by the treason of Sir Thomas Pomeroy in the first year of the reign of Edward VI., and bestowed upon the haughty Lord Protector Somerset. His representatives built here a magnificent structure at a cost of £20,000, but never completed the west side ; and Sir Edward Seymour, the leader of “ the country party” against James II., maintained a splendid state, but the mansion appears to have fallen into decay soon after his decease. Tradition ascribes its destruction to a thunderstorm, when it was set on fire by the light- ning. The principal gateway, the Tudor front built by the Lord Protector, St. Margaret’s Tower, some ivy- PLYMOUTH SECTION. mantled walls, and the wreck of a Jacobean court, still attest its ancient grandeur. The ruins now belong to the Duke of Somerset, as representative of the ancient family of Seymour, and are maintained in tolerable repair. They consist mostly of an embattled, ivy-grown gateway, the ivy concealing the Pomeroy arms sculptured thereon, a tower at the east end, called “ Lady Margaret’s ” Tower, and fragments of walls, and of the more modern residential part of the building described above. The Church, dedicated to St Mary, is an ancient building, erected by one of the Pomeroys. Noticeable in it are its fine screen, its rood-loft, and various memorials of the Seymours, especially Lord Edward Seymour, died 1593, and Sir Edward Seymour. Tot.ves to Dartmouth, by river, 10 m. Steamers twice a day during the season. This is a charming excursion, and displays the rich sylvan beauty of the Lower Dart to perfection. Two miles below Totnes Quay we reach the beautiful of Sharpham (R. Durant, Esq.), opposite to which the river proceeds by a series of romantic windings, scarcely less eccentric than those of the Wye between Ross and Monmouth. The natural charms of Sharpham are en- hanced by a large rookery and a heronry. Beyond it the river continues its meandering course past Duncannon, where passengers are landed, and then suddenly widens out as it passes between Bow Creek on the right, and the village of on the left. At the latter is a celebrated yew tree laying claim to an antiquity second only in England to the veteran of Darley Dale in Derby- shire, and in Scotland to the decrepit three-thousand-year old of Fortingal, in Perthshire. A little farther down, EXCURSIONS FROM TOTXES. on tlie same side of the river, is Sandridge, the birth- place of Davis, the navigator, opposite to which, on an isthmus, and a little retired from the main channel, is Ditsham, famous for its damson plums and cockles. Then the channel contracts again, and at ebb tide there rises from mid-stream the anchor stone, whereon, says tradition, Sir Walter Raleigh smoked the contemplative pipe. Be- yond this the channel again widens ; the railway is seen on the left dropping from the small ridge between Tor Bay and the Dart; then, passing the “Britannia” training- vessel, we cast anchor beneath the lofty green hills and quaint terraces of Dartmouth. (For a description of the town see page 87.) Totnes to (7 m.); and Ashburton (9| m.), by rail. The Ashburton branch of the South Devon Railway follows the romantic windings of the Mid Dart as far as Buckfastleigh, passing .on the way the village of Staver- to.v, famous for its cider. Buckfastleigh (Inn : King’s Arms) occupies a small plateau in the centre of a ring of low, abrupt, but generally verdant hills. Its inhabitants are employed in the manufacture of serges and blankets. An ascent may be made to the Church, which is perched up on higb, as if to make religion difficult, by a flight of 130 or 140 steps. Of course the legend runs that it was placed here out of the reach of the devil, who had a troublesome habit of undoing every night the work accomplished by the builders during the day. The build- ing is Early English in style, but with later additions and alterations. In the churchyard stand several tombs of black marble, and the ruins of a small chantry which cover the daisied graves of the late Admiral White and his wife. 100 PLYMOUTH SECTION. One mile beyond the village, on a grassy slope which stretches to the very margin of the Dart, are the bam, ivy-shrouded tower, and hoary walls of Buckfastleigh Abbey, a Cistercian house, founded in 1137 by Ethelwald de Pomeroy, on the site of an ancient Saxon Benedictine house, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At the time of its suppression in 1538 its revenues amounted to £466 per annum. It passed afterwards into various hands, and speedily sank into decay. Out of its ruins were built a large factory and several of the village houses. The present Abbey is a stately Tudor mansion, ■with embattled parapets, which was erected about forty years ago. Its position is very lovely, and the trees which enrich its grounds are venerable with age and majestic in their vigour. Two miles north-west of Buckfastleigh, on the west side of the Dart, is Hembuey Castle, an oblong Danish entrenchment covering 6 J acres. One mile south-west of Buckfastleigh, on the Road, is Dean Couet, once the residence of Robert Herrick, prince of lyrists, now a farmhouse. Herrick was appointed to the vicarage by Charles L, and here he wrote the greater part of his Hesperides. He was not at first enchanted with his parishioners, but wrote and spoke of them as “ rude, almost as rudest savages,” and a “ rocky generation.” “ More discontents I never had Since I was bom than here ; Where I have been, I still am sad In this dull Devonshire.” After a while, however, he learnt to appreciate his par- ishioners better, and to take an infinite delight in their DEAN COURT. 101 ancient customs, as his verses show. With his neighbour, Sir Edward Giles, M.P. for Totnes, he passed some merry hours, and both he and his parishioners were sorry when the puritans turned him out of his living, and placed one John Lyon therein. He was restored by Charles II., and spent his closing years at , with Mistress Prew his housekeeper, Trasy his pet dog, and Phill his tame sparrow, a goose, a cat, a pet lamb, and some few chickens. Herrick was buried on the 15th of October 1674. His grave is marked by a handsome monument, erected by his descendant, William Herrick, Esq., of Leicestershire. The Church is nearly a mile south of Dean Court, to the west of which lies Dean Burn, a romantic glen, brightened by a stream which leaps over the crags in several shimmering waterfalls. The line now quits the main valley of the Dart, and in less than three miles reaches Ashburton, which, as it is the starting-place for an important road over Dartmoor, we shall describe in the section devoted to that region. MAIN ROUTE—Continued. After leaving Totnes, the railway, striking westwards, rapidly approaches Dartmoor, along the south side of which it proceeds for a considerable distance at an eleva- tion which commands fine and extensive views over that richly-cultivated region of Devon called the South Hams. To reach this high ground it ascends a long incline and passes under the Marley Tunnel, beyond which it reaches in mile the village of South Brent. The Church, St. Petrock’s, has a Norman tower, a fine parclose, a richly-decorated screen, an ancient font, and several memorials. Fishing-spears with bronze heads—appar- 102 PLYMOUTH SECTION. ently Early Saxon—have been found in the river here, at a certain deep pool called “ the Pool of Blood.” The town formerly belonged to the monks of Buckfastleigh Abbey, who had the privilege of erecting therein a gallows, and summarily getting rid of unpleasant offenders. We are now fairly on the slopes of Dartmoor, and immediately after leaving Brent Station we cross the first of a series of lofty viaducts, by which the railway spans the deep valleys opening out on the south side of it. This viaduct is 7 2 feet high. The river which flows beneath it—one week a foaming torrent, the next a meandering brooklet—is the Avon, one of the prettiest and, at the same time, least important of the many English streams which are so named. In its course of between twenty and thirty miles from the Tors of Dartmoor to the English Channel it passes no larger places than Brent, Dipt- ford, and Woodleigh. The branch line to Kingsbridge is to run a great part of its length along this valley. At present, those who wish to inspect more closely the pleasant towns and villages and swelling uplands of the South Hams will best commence their journey at Dart- mouth, as described in the last section, or at Kingsbridge Boad, the next station on our present route. From this station, close to which is a fair-sized inn, there is com- munication by coach three times a day with Kingsbridge Town. Kingsbridge Road to Kingsbridge, 10 m.; Sal- combe, 14 m. Coach three times a day to Kingsbridge. Small steamer from Kingsbridge to Salcombe according to tide. This road passes for the greater part of the way over high ground, affording pleasant and extensive views, but few features of special interest. Behind us are the KINGSBRIDGE. 103 southern slopes of Dartmoor, and in front a long level ridge, which comes into view before we have gone many miles, is cut short at both ends by the abrupt promontories called Bolt Head and Bolt Tail, the former on the left and the latter on the right. About two miles from Kings- bridge Bond we pass Fowellscombe, a Tudor mansion built in 1537. Then, as we again attain the high level of the country, the perpendicular tower of Chduchstow, situated 1| mile north-west of Kingsbridge, becomes a prominent object in front. The only village which we pass on our way is , three miles short of Kingsbridge, as untidy and ill-conditioned a collection of houses as occupies any picturesque site in England. Be- yond this village the road sinks suddenly to the level of the Avon, which hereabout threads a pastoral valley flanked by steep grass-hills. Between this and Kings- bridge another hill is surmounted, beyond which we descend by the side of a rich glen, called Combe Royal, to Kingsbridge (Hotels : King’s Arms; Albion, in the main street; Anchor, etc., close to the water).—The town con- sists of one long street, descending abruptly at its far end to the level of the sea, or rather of the sand ; for, except during two hours or so on each side of high water, the estuary which looks so interesting on the map, with all its ramifications, is a mere wilderness of sand, surrounded, it is true, by hills of graceful outline and disposition. Kingsbridge itself wears a more cheerful and busy aspect than visitors who judged from its size and situation would probably anticipate,—a circuinstar.ce perhaps due to its being a little metropolis for a fairly dense population too far removed from any railway to go any great distance for their daily requirements. The climate is most geniaL 104 PLYMOUTH SECTION. The Church is an interesting building nearly five cen- turies old. It has a plain tower and spire, three aisles, transepts, and a new east window. There is good oak screening in the chancel. A clock-tower is an additional ornament to the town. In the Town Hall is an interest- ing museum. Besides the communication with Kingsbridge Road before described, there is a daily coach between the town and Dartmouth, passing Slapton Lea (p. 91) on the way, and a coach every other day to Plymouth ; also a steamer twice a week to the last named town. The sail from Kingsbridge to Salcombe is a very plea- sant one. In the sheltered spots of this favoured region many plants thrive in the open air which elsewhere will only grow under artificial influences. The myrtle flourishes in most places of South Devon, but here the orange, lemon, and aloe may also be found. The dis- tance by water is a long 4 miles. The road, 6 miles in length, takes a wide sweep to the right, passing through the villages of (1 m.) and Marlborough (4 m.) Salcombe (Inns: Victoria, King's Arms; Pop. 1822) is a small town built on the steepest of hill-sides, and consisting mainly of one narrow street. It is the most southerly place of any importance in Devon, and, perhaps, the hottest; but to the tourist its interest arises entirely from the proximity of the sea-coast between Prawle Point and Bay, which is, with the exception of the Lizard, the finest in the south of England. Prawle Point, 300 feet high, is about five miles distant by the coast. To reach it you cross the ferry to Portlemouth, and thence proceed to the hamlet of Rickham, near to BOLT HEAD. 105 which is a coastguard station. Thence down, and up, and down again,—after a fashion which only those who are used to coast travelling will anticipate. The Point is a wild, broken headland of gneiss rock. Underneath it is a natural arch, through which boats may be steered in calm weather. The view from here of Bolt Head, stand- ing out beyond the intervening bay, is very fine. Pedes- trians may continue their walk eastwards to Start Point (5 m.), conspicuous by its lighthouse, and Tor Cross Hotel (9 m., p. 92). Bolt Head is a long three miles south of Salcombe, and is reached by a road which runs parallel with the estuary and passes (1 m.) the remains of the old Castle, where Sir Edmund Fortescue held out for four months against the Parliamentary forces in 1645. Close to it is the Molt, a wooded height, belonging to Lord Cour- tenay, between the north and south sands. Beyond the latter the road ceases, and a rough track zigzags up to the flag-staff, which is separated from the Head by another short depression. The Head is a promontory of mica schist 430 feet high. Below it are several reefs—the Mew Stone, etc.; and in the cliff close at hand you may notice the entrance to Bull’s Hole, a cavern which is locally fabled to go underground for a couple of miles, re- appearing at Saw Mill Cove, the only break in the level line of cliff which extends from Bolt Head to Bolt Tail, a distance of five miles. Opposite to it a rock called the Ham Stone stands out to sea, and beyond it we rise to Bolbury Down, over which lies the whole of the remain- ing distance to the “Tail.” The coast scenery is very fine all the way. The track is marked by a succession of whitened stones, placed there for coastguard purposes. 106 PLYMOUTH SECTION. The coast is broken by a series of rugged headlands, on which a multitude of sea-birds make their home. A little short of the “ Tail” is Ralph’s Hole, a fissure so called from a celebrated smuggler who frequented it; and be- tween it and the headland the shore is indented by Ramillies’ Cove, wherein the loss of the “Ramillies” frigate nearly a century ago involved the loss of over 500 lives. From Bolt Tail we look westward over the wide ex- panse of Bigbury Bay, into which the Avon and the Erme pour a large proportion of the waters collected on the southern slopes of Dartmoor. Opposite the mouth of the former stream stands Borough, or Burr Island, and nearer at hand a singularly arched rock of red sandstone is called Thurlstone. There is a small public-house at the romantic Hope Cove, 1 mile distant, and noted for crabs. Tourists proceeding by the coast to Plymouth may ferry across the Avon at (small Inn), and across the Erme about mile above its mouth. There are several villages from half a mile to three times that dis- tance from the coast, and a considerable choice of routes, according as the traveller’s object is to make the best of his way to Plymouth, or to thoroughly explore the coast. Perhaps the best way is to proceed by Battisburrow Cross to the little village of Revelstoke, whose churchyard is actually washed by the sea waves. Near this is Stoke Point, by which, or by the direct route over the hill, you may proceed to (Inn), and thence cross the Yealm and reach Plymouth by Laira Bridge. Stoke Point is a promontory rising from a threshold of slate and forming the western horn of Bigbury Bay. Travellers whose time is limited are recommended to . 107 make their -way inland again from Bolt Tail and Bantham, on reaching which places they have passed the best part of the coast scenery of South Devon. From Bantham they may cross the Avon and reach, in about 6 miles, the little town of Modbury (Inns : Davis’s, White Hart).—This is a vener- able little town. Its four streets descend as many hills, and meet in the basin or hollow which they enclose. The Early English Church, dedicated to St. George, is remarkable for its tall spire, rising directly from the ground to an elevation of 135 feet. It was rebuilt in 1621. In the interior of the church are two effigies of Devonshire knights, and some heavy piers of granite. Modbury Court formerly stood on the summit of the hill which rises westward of the town. It was the seat, for centuries, of the famous family of the Champernownes, of whom a daughter married Otho Gilbert, a Devonshire gentleman, and became the mother of Sir John, Sir Humphrey, and Sir Adrian Gilbert. She next married Walter Raleigh of Fardell, and bore to him the great Sir Walter, thus giving birth to four of the most illustrious of Elizabethan worthies. The Court was garrisoned for the Parliament in 1642. Modbury is 13 miles from Plymouth, and 7 from Kingsbridge, on the coach-road between the two places. From it, too, the traveller may reach, in about 5 miles, Ivy Bridge Station, where we resume our description of the railway route to Plymouth. On his way thither he passes through Ermington, noteworthy for its leaning spire. Thence the shortest way is across the fields. Ivy Bridge (Inns: London, Kiw/s Arms) is the most picturesque spot between Newton Abbot and Plymouth. 108 PLYMOUTH SECTION. The railway, continuing high up along the southern slope of Dartmoor, crosses the Erme by a viaduct 110 feet high, close to the station. This river is second in beauty to the Dart only of all the streams issuing from the south of Dartmoor. It flows through a narrow Y-shaped ravine, which, just below the viaduct, opens out on to the com- paratively open district of the South Hams. The village, which is almost embowered in rich foliage, contains paper mills, and, what is more to the point, an excellent inn (Mallett’s London). From it the Erme may be explored by a path which continues some way along its western side to its head, about 7 miles distant Thence Prince- town may be reached in about 6 miles, and Two Bridges in 8, by a walk over soft, springy turf, which affords pleasant footing in fairly dry weather. (See Dartmoor Section.) From Ivy Bridge, too, there is a carriage road over the south-west corner of the moor to and Tavistock. Approximate distances—to Horrabridge 14, to Tavistock 18, miles. The road passes through the village of Comwood (Inn), beyond which it rises to the level of the moor, affording a fine view over Plymouth in the south-west. Then it drops slightly to Cadover Bridge, rising and falling again to the Heavy stream, which it crosses a little to the right of Heavy village. Beyond Heavy it again rises to , whose lofty, Per- pendicular church-tower is conspicuous from all the country round. Hence Horrabridge is reached by a by- road to the left, and Tavistock by the main one, which crosses the picturesque Walkham Valley on the way. Two miles of the walking distance may be saved by com- mencing this route at Road, the next station CORNWOOD. 109 to Ivy Bridge. Between the two stations the railway crosses the Yealm by the Blachford Viaduct, 105 feet high, a little short of which, on the south of the line, is a farmhouse called Barbell, once the residence of the Raleigh family. Cornwood itself is about 1 mile from the station— pleasantly situated on the Yealm at a short distance from the south-west boundary of Dartmoor. Shell Top, one of the granite tors of that remarkable waste, and 1550 feet in height, rises above the river-glen, 3 miles to the north. Numerous Celtic remains are within an easy walk. In Comwood itself there is little to he seen. Its Church appears to he a fourteenth century building, with later additions, and contains a few memorials. Goodamoor House and Thorley Hall, where Elizabeth Chudleigh, afterwards Duchess of Kingston, the heroine of the famous bigamy case, was born, are situated on the outskirts of the village. Comwood is in high favour with the Plymouth folk, in consequence of the beauty of the Yealm valley, which contains, among other attractions, some picturesque waterfalls. A wood called “ Awns and Dendles,” 2 miles from the station, and 1J mile from the village, is intersected by beautiful walks. After leaving Comwood the railway crosses the Slade Viaduct, 103 feet high, and then commences the descent for Plymouth. The first station on the way is Plympton St. Mary (Inns: George, Plymouth), miles from Ply- mouth. The Church is a fine old pile of the Decor- ated order, with Perpendicular additions, well worthy of notice. It contains the memorials of the families of Strode 110 PLYMOUTH SECTION. and Parker. Some traces still remain of the Angnstinian Priory which Bishop Warelwast of Exeter founded (a.d. 1121), upon the ruins of a Saxon Collegiate House. To the north lies Park, and on the banks of the Plym, Elfordleigh ; Hemerdon Hoose and Beechwood House are also in this vicinity. At Plympton Earle (Inn : The London), 1 mile south of Plympton St. Mary, may be seen the ruins of a feudal stronghold built by Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon, and dismantled by King Stephen when Baldwin de Red- vers, second Earl of Devon, defended Exeter against him. It was rebuilt in the following reign, and strengthened as years rolled on according to the new principles of military science. Prince Maurice, in 1643, appointed here his headquarters, and in the following year it fell into the hands of the parliamentarian general, the Earl of Essex. The took good care that it should never again be tenable as a military post At Plympton Earle, Sir Joshua Reynolds, the famous portrait painter, was born in 1722, and was educated at the Plympton Grammar School, of which his father was master. The said school was founded by Sergeant May- nard, in 1658, from funds provided for charitable pur- poses by Elize Hele, Esq., of Eardell. The building—in the late Tudor style—was erected in 1665. The arcade is supported by massive piers of granite. Plympton Earle Church, dedicated to St. Maurice, is an uninteresting edifice, and was originally a chapelry to the Church of Plympton St. Mary. A mile beyond Plympton the South-Western route from Exeter joins the Great-Western at Marsh Mills, beyond which, on the right hand, are lofty green hills surmounted

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PLYMOUTH AND DEYOXPORT. Ill by earthworks. Then we proceed for a while along the estuary of the Plym, fringed on its opposite side by the woods of Saltram, whence, diverging into a shallow green valley, we reach successively the Mutley, North Road, and Millbay Stations at Plymouth. The last-named is the terminus. PLYMOUTH AND DEYONPORT. HotelsMillbay in Plymouth: Station; Grand,Royal, onLockyer the Hoe; Street; Globe, Dul;e Harvey’s, of Cornwall, Chubb’s, opposite Farley, Hotels in Devonport: Royal, Thomas’s, New Crown. Distances;m. (24 byLondon, road); 225Tavistock, m.; Exeter, 16 m. 52; , m. (32 by SO road); m. Launceston, 35 Population48,939; oftotal, the 122,733.municipal Of boroughs—Plymouth, the parliamentary boroughs—Plymouth 73,794; Devonport, (2total, M.P.’s), 140,060. 76,080; Devonport, with Stonehouse (2 M.P.'s), 63,980 ; Plymouth and Devonport are practically parts of one and the same town, though for convenience sake we shall describe them separately. All that lies between them is an inlet of , bearing the names, succes- sively, of Stonehouse Pool, Stonehouse Lake, and Mill Lake. The two boroughs return lour members to Parlia- ment, two for Plymouth and two for Devoriport. History.—There is no seaport in England which has a higher interest than Plymouth. It is more especially the great national harbour—the principal nursery of our fleets; and its unrivalled advantages of position and scenery, as well as tbe romantic and stirring nature of its history, invest it with an importance which none of us can undervalue. Leland, quoting from a MS. of Henry XL, tells us that it was then a “ mene thing as an inhabitation for fischars ; ” 112 PLYMOUTH SECTION. but its advantageous situation on tbe inner store of a noble bay, formed by the influx of the estuaries of the Laira and the Tamar, and its immense capabilities of defence, pointed it out at an early period as the proper seat for a great naval station. In the days of Saxondom “the fischar village” was known as Tamar Weorth; after the Conquest it was called the South-Town, or Sutton (Sudtone); in Edward I.’s reign the north portion was called Sutton-Prior, and the south portion Sutton- Valletort, because the former belonged to the monks of Plympton, and the latter to the lords of Valletort; but in 1439 the town was at length incor- porated by the style and title of “ The Mayor and Com- monalty of Plymouth.” The rising town had already attracted the notice and aroused the jealousy of the French. On the 20th May 1339 seven ships at anchor in Plymouth Harbour were burnt by eighteen French pirate vessels, but the rovers had sore cause to regret their raid. The men of Devon gathered together under Earl Hugh, then eighty years of age, and, with a loss of eighty-nine gallant hearts, repulsed the enemy and slew five hundred. Six or seven years later they were able to contribute towards Edward III.’s great expedition 325 ships. In 1350 the French made another attempt upon Plymouth ; but, finding it strongly defended, contented themselves with destroying the farms in the neighbourhood. In 1377, a few days after the death of the great Plantagenet, they landed and set the town on fire; and in 1403 “the Britaines, under the conduct of the Lord of Cassils,” burnt 600 houses. The men of the west, in revenge, carried fire and sword along a vast extent of the French coast PLYMOUTH. 113 Pedro Nina, with forty “ Spaniard vessels,” was repulsed from Plymouth in 1405, and this was the last occasion of a descent by a foreign foe, for De Ruyter and his victori- ous fleet, after the insult at Chatham in 1667, sailed by triumphantly, hut without daring to attack the town; and in 1779, the combined French and Spanish fleets, under M. de Orvilliers, consisting of sixty-six sail of the line, paraded ostentatiously off Rame Head for two oi three days, hut made no attempt to enter the harbour (June 5, 6, and 7). On this occasion, however, “the Ardent, sixty-four guns, commanded by Captain Boteler, standing down channel, fell in with the enemy’s fleet, and mistaking it for the British, was surrounded and captured in sight of Plymouth.”—(Campbell’s Naval History). Royal Visits.—In 1355 the Black Prince, the illus- trious hero of British chivalry, was detained at Plymouth forty days before he set out on the expedition which ter- minated with such splendour at Poictiers ; and it was at Plymouth that he afterwards disembarked with his cap- tives, King John and the Dauphin of France. Catharine of Aragon landed here, October 2, 1501, and was “grandly received with much feasting and rejoicing,” by Lord Brook, the Earl of , and Duchess of Norfolk. The Spanish chronicler says the port was called “ Salamonte ” —a perversion of “Plymouth” which it is difficult to understand. From Plymouth Sound, in April 1506, Philip the Fair and Joanna, King and Queen of Castile, sailed away home- ward, after having been “hospitably” but unwillingly detained at Henry VII.’s court for three months. From hence departed Don Antonio, titular King of Portugal, with an English fleet under Drake, the Earl of Essex, and Sir 114 PLYMOUTH SECTION. Henry Norris, April 8, 1589, much to the annoyance of Elizabeth, who directed Norris and Drake to insist upon the return of Essex. The expedition failed in every- thing, except in illustrating the courage and endurance of Englishmen. Charles I., with 100 ships and 6000 men came here in 1625, and remained ten days. Charles II. visited the fortifications in July 1671. King George III. made a royal progress up the Sound in 1789, and in 1815 Napoleon I. was brought hither a prisoner on board H.M.S. “ Bellerophon,” which anchored in Cawsand Bay. Queen Victoria has also been one of the royal visitors of Plymouth, and in 1874 the Municipal Buildings were opened by the Prince of Wales. Expeditions.—In the great days of the great Elizabeth, Plymouth became the rendezvous of her daring navigators, and the port from which those bold discoverers started who planted the Cross of St George in nearly every “nook and corner” of the world. Of these famous adventurers we may name :—Sir John Hawkins, in 1562 and 1563; Sir , 13th December 1577 ; Captain Edward Fenton, May 1582 ; Sir Humphrey Gilbert, 11th June 1583 ; Thomas Cavendish, 21st July 1586 ; Richard Hawkins, 13th June 1593 ; Howard of Effingham, Earl of Essex, and others, 3d June 1596. And it was in the Sound that the great body of the English fleet awaited tidings of the invincible Armada. Howard of Effingham, Drake, and Hawkins, had under their com- mand 120 sail, when, on the 20th July 1588, news was brought them of the approach of their powerful enemy. Other memorable expeditions started from Plymouth in the following order:—Wallis and Carteret, August PLYMOUTH DEVONPORT. 115 1760; Commodore Byron, June 1794; Captain Cook, July 1772, and again, on liis last and fatal voyage, 1776. Sundry Occurrences.—The Earl of Warwick, the king-maker, landed here in 1470. Sir Lewis Stukeley, “a kinsman and friend,” arrested Sir Walter Raleigh on his return from Guiana in 1618, a mile or so beyond the town. In 1620 the famous Mayflower, with the Pilgrim Fathers aboard, touched at the port on her way to the New World. “New Plymouth,” in the United States, still proves by its name the depth of affection felt by those brave hearts for the land which they left “ for con- science’ sake.” During the Civil War, while the men of Stonehouse were staunch royalists, the men of Plymouth were stoutly parliamentarian, and successively repulsed Prince Maurice, Sir , and Colonel Digby (1643,1644, and 1645). Mount Edgcumbe was garrisoned by a royalist force, but Colonel Hammond compelled its surrender on the 21st March 1646. At sunset, on the 17th of August 1657, Plymouth witnessed the death of one of the greatest of English admirals—Robert Blake, returning on board his flag-ship', the St. George, from his victory at Teneriffe. He had sent for his chief officers to bid them farewell, and even while they listened to his dying words, the leafy hills of Devon- shire came in view. The present Citadel, at the east end of the Hoe, and partly on the site of the old fort, was constructed in 1670-1. What we now call Devonport, and what was formerly called Plymouth Dock, first sprung into exist- ence in the reign of William III. It had grown to such dimensions that it fully deserved incorporation as an 116 PLYMOUTH SECTION. independent town, when that privilege was conferred upon it, January 1, 1824. Objects oe Interest.—The tourist who merely wishes to see those special features of Plymouth which distinguish it from other towns may easily include them in the range of a few hours’ walk. The interior of the town possesses little to detain him. Except in the neighbourhood of the Hoe and the Municipal Buildings, the streets are narrow and tortuous, without presenting any compensating pic- turesqueness. Old Town Street derives a special interest from its winding, old-world character, but the best of the others differ little from the streets of any other busy, well- to-do town, except in so far as the absence of smoke- creating industries gives them a peculiarly cleanly aspect. Starting from any of the hotels, the tourist should visit the Hoe, the Citadel, the Municipal Buildings, and the Church of St. Andrew ; after which he may with advan- tage undertake the longer excursions to Mount Edgcumbe, the Breakwater, Cawsand, Saltram (open on Mondays only), and up the Tamar. The beauty of Plymouth itself arises almost entirely from the happy combinations of sea and richly-wooded hills which its favourite points of view present. The Hoe, a slight but commanding elevation partly covered with grass, which completely overlooks Mill Bay and the Sound, is one of the features of Plymouth. It is nearly half a mile from the Millbay Station by the street along the south side of the Duke of Cornwall Hotel, and not only the best, but also the most easily attained point for those visitors whose time or opportunity is limited. Along the summit of it runs the favourite promenade of the Plymouth people, and along part of the side most PLYMOUTH. 117 retired from the water runs a handsome fa§ade of modem houses, ending with the Grand Hotel. The view comprises Mount Edgcumhe, the Breakwater, St. Nicholas Island, the entrance to the Catwater and Mount Batten, as well as Devonport and Stonehouse. The erection of the old on this eminence is in contemplation. It is said that Drake and Howard of Effingham, the Lord Admiral, were playing “at bowls”—then the fash- ionable pastime—on the Hoe, when the tidings arrived of the approach of the great Armada, July 19, 1588. To reach the Citadel from the Hoe the visitor must walk round the north end of it till he reaches the entrance, an elaborate classical gateway of the time of Charles II. Hence he may ascend at once to the top of the ramparts, and walk the entire round, gaining from their numberless angles and projections a kaleidoscopic succession of views towards every point of the compass in turn. The fortress consists of three regular and three irregular bastions, two ravelins and homworks, and mounts 120 heavy guns. From an architectural point of view, it contains no feature of note except the gateway. The Lower Fort, to the south- east of the larger one, was designed by Captain Horneck. Quitting the Citadel we may proceed along Castle Street to the Barbican. This is the Fish Market of Plymouth, busy and unsavoury. Alongside of it is the basin called Sutton Pool, wherein the fishing craft lie at anchor. While in this quarter of the town it is worth while to go on from the north end of the Barbican across the Parade, and up Batter, Buckwell, and Norley Streets, to Charles, or “New” Church, as it is called, the latter name being used to distinguish it from the Parish Church of St. Andrew, which is called the “ Old” Church. Charles 118 PLYMOUTH SECTION. Church is said to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture produced during the period to which it be- longs—the middle of the seventeenth century. It con- tains nave, chancel, and aisles, and is surmounted by a tower and spire at the west end. The spire is more than a century later than the body of the Church. From here it is only a walk of a few hundred yards along Norley, Treville, and Old Town Streets, to the centre of the business portion of the town, and the handsomest part of it, where will be found the two most interesting architectural features of Plymouth, St. Andrew’s Church and the Municipal Buildings. St Andrew’s Church is a Perpendicular building, com- menced in the fifteenth century. The tower, battlemented and handsomely pinnacled, is in its main elevation simple and massive. It was restored in 1871. The body of the Church consists of a nave and two aisles, all equal in length and similar in appearance, and each containing a large east window. The interior was restored in 1874-75 by Sir Gilbert Scott. It is remarkable for its large area, and contains, amongst other objects of interest, a richly-orna- mented stone pulpit, a handsome octagonal font, a reredos with painted panels, and a finely-carved oak lectern. The Bishop’s Throne is also noticeable. The roof is circular in shape—“waggon” shaped, to use the technical term. It has oak.beams with gilt bosses. The coloured windows have all been put in within the last fifty years. There are many interesting monuments, amongst them a bust of a former vicar, Zachary Madge, by Chantrey, and in- scriptions on the walls — including a poetical tribute to Charles Mathews, the elder, who died at Plymouth in 1835, and is described as “the best of fathers and of PLYMOUTH. 119 husbands.” The visitor in search of quaint and silly epitaphs will not be disappointed. “ Spectacles of grief command Eares and eyes to be at stand ; Reader, then, amongst so many, Read and weepe at this, if any.” The tower contains a peal of ten bells, which chime every four hours. The Municipal Buildings' are only separated by the breadth of a street from the Church. They were opened in 1874 by the Prince of Wales, and are remarkable for their varied outline and graceful grouping. The general style is Early English, chaste, and not overdone with ornament. A tower 200 feet high makes them addi- tionally conspicuous. There is a fine panorama from the top, to which the public are admitted, as they are to the Great Hall. The latter is a spacious and handsome apart- ment, occupying the centre of the southern block of the buildings, ecclesiastical in outward appearance, and the most richly-ornamented portion of the whole. From the centre of the roof rises a slight and elegant spire. On the windows many of the most interesting episodes in the history of the town, including, of course, the Armada, are represented in stained glass. The interior consists of a lofty nave, 146 feet by 58, and 2 small aisles, separated from the nave by arcades. It will seat 3000 persons. At one end is a large orchestra, in which a very fine organ was placed in 1878. In the same block as the Great Hall are the Law Courts. In the other, or northern block, separated from the hall by a spacious quadrangle, are the Municipal Offices, including the Council Chamber and the Mayor’s 120 PLYMOUTH SECTION. Parlour. The latter contains an original portrait of Sir Francis Drake. Close at hand is a statue of Alfred Eooker, Mayor of Plymouth at the time of the opening of the buildings. Of the other important buildings of Plymouth perhaps the most noteworthy is the block containing the Theatre Royal and the Royal Hotel, a heavy-looking range, in George Place and Lockyer Street, fronted on two sides by plain Ionic pillars and pediments. At the Plymouth Library in Cornwall Street is a valuable collection of works of the old masters, including Leonardo da Yinci, Rembrandt, Rubens, Claude Lorraine, Van Dyck, etc., called the Cottonian Collection, from their having been presented by the late Mr. Cotton, F.S.A. The AxHENiEUM, close to the Royal Hotel, is another specimen of the heavy Greek architecture, in favour, apparently, with the Plymouth people sixty years ago. It contains, besides a lecture hall, library, etc., a small but interesting museum, wherein will be found a collec- tion of Roman and British antiquities discovered in the neighbourhood, bones of extinct animals from the Oreston Quarries, as well as a local, geological, and natural history exhibition. Plymouth is connected with Devonport by a tramway, commencing at the west end of Union Street in the former, and ending in Fore Street in the latter town. The inter- vening space is occupied by Stonehouse, or more strictly East Stonehouse, wherein the only two buildings likely to interest the visitor are the Royal William Victualling Yard and the Royal Naval Hospital. The Royal Victualling Offices and Yard.—This fine range of buildings occupies a bold and rocky pro- STONEHOUSE DEVONPORT. 121 montory at the extreme south of Stonehouse. Yast exca- vations had to be made in order to obtain an area large enough for so great an establishment The architect and engineer was Eennie ; the cost, £1,500,000 ; and its erection occupied from 1826 to 1835. It is approached by a street leading from the east end of Stonehouse Bridge. A handsome gateway, surmounted by a statue of William IV., admits the visitor into a range of substantial quad- rangular buildings, covering, with the courts, an area of 15 acres. The sea-wall is 1500 feet long. Here are carried on those cleverly-combined processes, by which the navy biscuits are supplied with astonishing economy, ease, and rapidity. The Royal Naval Hospital is on the east side of Stonehouse Lake, a little way to the north of the tram- route along Union Street. It covers 24 acres, and con- tains 1200 beds. It was built in 1762. On the other side of Stonehouse Lake, and just opposite the Naval Hospital, is the Military Hospital, which is most conveniently reached by a bridge just above the latter. It consists of five blocks, and was built in 1797. Behind it is Stoke Church. The town of Devonport, which we now reach by cross- ing Stonehouse Bridge, occupies a compact situation, sur- rounded on two sides by the river mouth, and on the others by a belt of open ground called the Ordnance Land. As is the case in most Government dockyard towns, the visitor finds high interminable walls obstructing his vision just where he wants to make use of it. The premises of the dockyard here extend nearly the whole length of the town, and shut out all view of the water except at their extreme ends. Part of the Ordnance Land, however, PLYMOUTH SECTION. lying north-east of the town between it and Stoke Damerell, has bqen laid out as a public recreation ground ; and, from its comparative elevation, it com- mands a very good view. Close at hand is the new and commodious terminus of the South-Western Com- pany. The principal thoroughfare of Devonport is Fore Street, in or near to which are all the important buildings, in- cluding the Town Hall and Post Office. The Post Office was designed by Wightwick. The Town Hall presents a Doric elevation, in imitation of the Parthenon at Athens. It was built early in the centuryfrom local funds. The principal chamber is 75 feet by 40 feet, and contains portraits of Georges L, II., and III., William IV., and Queens Charlotte and Caroline. Tire Library, erected in 1823, has a heavy Egyptian character. The adjacent Chapel, Mount Zion, is a curious combination of the Saracenic and Hindu : it was opened in 1824. Close to these edifices rises the Column, a Doric pillar of Devon- shire granite, more than 100 feet in height, built at a cost of £2750, on a solid mass of rock 22 feet above the level of the ground, and designed to commemorate the change in the name of the town from Plymouth Dock to Devonport. None of the churches of Devonport call for special remark, unless it be the old Parish Church of Stoke Damerell, close to the Military Hospital. This, however, has nothing left of its original self except the tower, the rest having been altered and enlarged to such an extent that it has actually faced about till its length and breadth have changed places. To strangers the chief object of interest in Devonport DEVONPOHT DOCKYARD. 123 is, of course, its huge dockyard, of which we subjoin a brief description:— A naval arsenal was established here in 1689, but it only began to assume its present proportions in 1761. A new dock was opened in 1771 ; and Lord Egmont recommended a considerable enlargement, at a cost of about £380,000. From that date the growth of Plymouth Dockyard has been rapid, and it is now one of the most important establishments in the kingdom. It is inclosed from North Corner to Mutton Cove by a wall of slate and limestone 30 feet high; from north to south, along the shores of Hamoaze, it extends 3500 feet, and about a quarter of a mile from east to west; it covers 96 acres, and employs about 2500 workmen ; while the Steam Factory at Keybam employs about 600 men. The entrance is at the end of Fore Street, whence we pass into a wide, open court bounded on each side by buildings; amongst them, the admiral-superintendent’s house, the chapel, the guardhoftse, pay office, and surgery. The measurements of the five Docks are these:— I. The Five Docks— Feet Feet Feet 1. New Union, built in 1762 long,219 broad,66 deep.26 8.2. NewSooth North, Dock, builtbuilt in by 1789 William III., and since 272 56 27 4. Headenlarged Dock, built by George III. . . .223 261 6652 2826 5. GravingStem Dock Slip, adjoining„ the Camber .... . 169192 6952 26 AboutII. The 650 Chainchain cables Cable are Storehouse, generally kept built here, in ready1844-8, for cost immediate nearly £40,000. service. Forty-eightThe Anchor forges Smithery and Nasmyth’s fronts the steam-hammerAnchor Wharf, combineand is 210 to feet produce square. a tionscene a which,Cyclopean for clash,pandemonium. clangour, and lurid glare, recalls to the imagina- stone,III. Thethree Rope stories House high, is builtand eachof iron 1200 ; the feet Spinning in length; Houses, the Riggingof lime- 124 PLYMOUTH SECTION. Houses are two ranges of sheds 480 feet long, forming one side of a quad- arangle, canal while70 feet the long, other and sides spanned are occupied by an iron with swing-bridge, storehouses. communicatesThe Camber, withtimber-sheds, the Boat saw-pits,Pond. Therebuilding-slips, are, besides, reservoirs, mast-houses, smithies, timber-basins, mould or model-lofts,IV. A neat some gravel of whichpath winds are not up thrown to a small open tomound, the public. whose summit is oncrowned one occasion, by a plain and pavilion. commanding This a is fine King’s view. Hill, visited by George III. 900V. yards Keyham in length, Steam occupies Factory, a connectedsort of peninsula with the between dockyard Keyham by a tunnel Lake, withHamoaze, two andsteam Moon’s basins, Cove. one 630It hasX 560 a water feet, andfrontage another of about700 X 1300400 feet,feet. whoThe purchasedentrance is it from in 1667). Morice Town (so named from Sir William Morice, utility,VI. Between will, of thecourse, dockyard be understood and Keyham by the lies spectator the Gun at Wharf, a glance. whose It andoccupies in the five open acres spaces of ground. between In thethe StorehousesStorehouses areare allmethodically kinds of arms, ar- rowsranged of polishedpyramids cannons. of cannon balls, gun-carriages of various shapes, and dockyardA Steam and Ferry Tor Point, Bridge, on theworked Cornish by shore.two engines, plies between the feetVII. to 20Devonport feet deep, is excavated enclosed fromby a theline solid of fortifications, limestone. Therewith aare ditch Three 12 Tavistock,Gates—the andStonehouse, the North leading Barrier, to Plymouth,opening on the the Stoke Tamar. Barrier The towards Kino’s rampartsInterior andBoundary ditches, Wall occupies rises an 12 elevated feet high; position the Blockhouse,in Higher Stoke. with its In order to obtain a clear idea of the dockyard and fortifications of Devonport and Plymouth, the visitor should endeavour to secure the services of an intelligent non-commissioned officer. A more detailed description in these pages would he misplaced. South-east of the dockyard, and looking over the water to Mount Edgcumhe, is Mount Wise, with its barracks and official residence. It is a kind of twin height to the Hoe of Plymouth. PLYMOUTH SOUND. 125 PLYMOUTH SOUND. The most important object of interest in Plymouth Sound, from an engineering point of view, is the Bkeak- water, which may he visited by boat. It is situated at a distance of about 2 miles south of the citadel at Ply- mouth, and has on either hand a good channel, which admits the egress or ingress of the largest ships at any time of the tide. Between its noble wall and the north shore forty sail of the line, besides smaller vessels, can ride in safety. It was commenced in 1812, under the direction of Rennie, and for thirty-four years absorbed the daily labour of 200 men. About 4,000,000 tons of granite were made use of at a cost of ,£1,582,000. Its length in the centre is 1000 yards, with two arms, 350 yards long, which trend towards the north at an angle of 120°. The width at the base varies from 300 to 400 feet,—at the summit it is only 45 feet; the depth varies from 80 to 40 feet, according to the inequalities of its founda- tion ; and at the high water of spring it rises but 2 feet above the sea. The Lighthouse, at the west end, of white granite, 55 feet high, and 114 feet diameter at its base, was constructed in 1841. At the east end stands a beacon, erected in 1845, with a hollow globe for the rescue of shipwrecked seamen. Near the extremities of the Breakwater are the Bo vis and Fort, a recent erection of immense strength, and the Picklecombe Fort ; and half-way between them, on its north side, the Breakwater Fort—the three together constituting the line of defence designed for the protection of the port. 126 PLYMOUTH SECTION. From the Breakwater a visit may be made to the Mewstone, a vast pyramidical rock, rising abruptly out of the water, off the mouth of the . To the unmilitary eye there is little of interest in the low and fort-crowned Island op St. Nicholas, which lies between the town and the Breakwater, and within half a mile of the former. It has been also called St. 'Michael’s Island and Drake’s Island : the former, from a small chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, which once crowned its summit, and where General Lambert, the Roundhead, was buried in 1683. The island, with its fortifications, during the Civil War, was held by the parliamentarians, though on two occasions it was nearly betrayed into royalist hands; and after the Restoration it became a state prison, in which, amongst others, General Lambert was kept captive for many years previous to his death. Harrington, the author of Oceana, was imprisoned here in 1662. Its formidable defensive works are of great importance, as commanding the entrance to the Sound. It is about 3 acres in extent, half a mile dis- tant from 'Stonehouse, and connected with the south-west shore by a range of low rocks, called the Bridge, impass- able even at high water, except for the smallest and lightest craft. Drake’s Island is an excellent observatory for those who wish to obtain a clear idea of the Sound and its surroundings. The marine part of the prospect may be likened in arrangement, if not in shape, to a huriian hand with outstretched fingers, whose palm we may take to be represented by the Harbour itself, and the fingers by the inlets into which it branches. The thumb, on the right, is the Catwater, running between Mount Batten and EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH. 127 Catdown, and formed by the estuary of the Laira. The forefinger points to Sutton Pool, whose extreme points are euphoniously named “Bear’s Head” and “Fisher’s Nose.” Queen Anne’s Battery is here the principal defensive work. The second finger indicates Mill Bay, lying between the Hoe and Stonehouse. At its farther extremity are the Great Western Docks. The third finger points to the far-reaching creek already spoken of as Stonehouse Pool, etc., which divides Stonehouse from Devonport. The fourth finger represents the noble anchorage of Hamoaze, whose east bank is occupied with the Royal Dockyard, Gun Wharf, and Steam Yard. Be- yond the latter Keyham Lake runs inland about 1100 yards. The Hamoaze is formed by the estuary of the Tamar. Plymouth and Devonport, therefore, occupy an irregular square piece of ground between the estuaries of the Laira and the Tamar, nearly 5700 yards in width. Devonport proper is surrounded by a strong line of forti- fications, and occupies the south-western angle of this piece of ground. It may roughly be described as a square, of about 1300 yards each way. EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH. Mount Edgcumbe. The grounds of this mansion are thrown open to the public every Wednesday. On other days a special order must be obtained at the Manor House, Stonehouse. To reach them either the ferry from Admiral’s Hard to Cremill must be taken, or a boat from one of the other landing-stages in Devonport. The regular ferry leaves Admiral’s Hard at the half-hours, and returns at the hours. 128 PLYMOUTH SECTION. .Mount Edgcumbe is undoubtedly tbe loveliest spot in tbe immediate vicinity of Plymouth. As Garrick ex- claimed— “ This mount all of surpasses, ’Tis the haunt of the Muses—this mount of Parnassus,” and as it rises gently from the sea—a mass of living verdure—it exhibits a grace and a beauty quite its own. The Mount is the extreme end of a promontory, 4 to 5 miles in length, and 3 miles in breadth, and has been sedulously cultivated into an extensive and admirably attractive pleasure-garden. The Mansion, a castellated Tudor building, of red sandstone, was built by Sir Richard Edgcumbe in 1550 ; but an octagonal tower at each angle has taken the place of the original round towers, taken down in 1762. The Hall, in the centre of the building, rises to the second story, and is adorned with Doric columns and pilasters of Devonshire marble. The pic- tures are chiefly family portraits, and include four by Sir Peter Lely, viz. that heroic Earl of Sandwich who was blown up with his ship in the great fight at Solebay, 28 th May 1672 ; his wife, the Countess of Sandwich; their daughter, Ann Montague ; and her husband, Sir Richard Edgcumbe, M.P. There are also four by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The Pleasuee-Geounds are arranged in three distinct gardens,—the English, French, and Italian,—and are em- bellished. with fountains, vases, busts, and statues. From every point the views are of great extent, and of wonderful interest and animation—especially from the south side of the hill, which is an abrupt and craggy cliff, planted with luxuriant evergreens. Midway runs the Geeat Teeeace, EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH. 129 and the whole face of the rock is covered with winding walks, which open upon the finest vistas imaginable. George III. was here in August 21, 1789, and the Mount has been visited both by Queen Victoria and the late Prince Consort. From Mount Edgcumbe the walk may be extended past Maker Church to the little seaside resorts of and Cawsand, 2j miles from Cremill, and further, to Penlee Point and Rame Head. Kingsand and Caw- sand are parts of a quaint and picturesque little village, with narrow, winding streets, on the deep bay between Penlee Point and Picklecombe Point. A very pleasant footpath, leaving the road ij mile beyond the inn at Cremill Ferry, crosses the Volunteer Parade Ground, and drops directly upon them. Rame Head has on its summit the ruins of a little Chapel, and commands a view of the coast extending to the Lizard, and including the Eddystone Lighthouse. AH these places are in ComwaU. Saltram (The grounds open on Mondays).— The entrance to Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley, is on the far side of Laira Bridge, 1J mile from the centre of Plymouth. Omnibuses run from the Clock Tower at the east end of Union Street to within half a mile of the gate. In addition to the Bridge Toll (Id. for passengers and Is. for conveyances) there is a toll of |d. for passen- gers and 4d. for carriages for crossing an embankment of about 50 yards leading on to the bridge. On the other side of the bridge is the Morley Arms Inn. Saltram House lies about 4 miles north-east of Ply- mouth, and its park is conspicuous for the luxuriance of its foliage and the changing beauty of its landscapes. The house, a handsome building, temp. George II., erected 130 PLYMOUTH SECTION. on the rise of a sloping lawn, 300 acres in extent, and backed by a glorious depth of foliage, extends on the west side 170 feet; on the south and east sides 135. The interior is richly fitted up, and adorned with a good collection of works of art and vertu. nolds:—TheThe Libkary Earl contains of Morley some and of his the sister, finest the specimens Hon. Mrs. of Villiers,Sir Joshua as chil-Rey- ofdren Lansdowne ; M. E. Parker, ; John, Esq.; Lord Hon. Boringdon, Mrs. Parker in anda shooting son ; William, dress, Marquisleaning landscapeagainst a -gate, painting; in a rural Mrs. landscape—one Abington as Prue,of Sir inJoshua's Congreve’s few attemptscomedy atof upon“Love a forguitar; Love;” and Kitty others. Fisher, The as KedCleopatra; Drawing-Room Mrs. Greenwood contains:—St. playing andFaith, Child, Guido; Sassoferrato; Galatea, withand nymphsspecimens and of tritons,Wouvermans, Domenichino; Jordaens, Virgin Van Both,and Cattle, Borgognone, Berghem; and Adoration Salvator ofRosa. the Shepherds,In the Blue Carlo Room Dolce; Landscape Marriage Billiardof St. Catharine, Room Correggio;Helena Forman, Flight his into second Egypt, wife, Caspar by Rubens; Poussin. Landscape In the andbesides figures, specimens Teniers; of QueenZucchi Elizabeth, and Zuccherelli, Janssen. are,In —Thethe Dining-Room, Bacchanals, Parker,Titian, aJanssen; marvel ofVirgin form teachingand colour; St. JohnHoly Family,to read, BaroccioGuercino; ; Sira group Thomas of figures,letti; Holy Paolo Family, Veronese; and theChrist Bolingbroke and St. John, Family, Mengs; Van Dyck;Rubens’ Venice, three WivesCana- Earlas Huntresses,—the of Morley, by Nollekens; game by Snyders,and a superb the figures buhl-table by Rubens; presented a bust by ofLouis the XIV.the assumption to the haughty of the Sara, Virgin, Duchess by Sabbatini, of Marlborough. from the Achurch Hebe ofby La Canova; Morte atGreat Bologna, Staircase. and some historical subjects by Angelica Kaufmann, adorn the A pleasant way of visiting Saltram is by water, stopping at the river-lodge, and traversing the grounds to the lodge near Marsh Mills Station. At Oreston the limestone cliffs reach an extraordinary height, and there is a cave in the quarries 20 feet long, 10 feet high, 70 feet wide, and 35 feet below the ground, which contains a collection of the fossil bones and teeth of elephants, hyaenas, tigers, and other beasts of prey. The jaw of a horse encrusted with stalagmite was also found here. EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH. 131 THE EDDYSTONE. One of the most popular excursions to be made from Plymouth is a sail to the celebrated Lighthouse at the Eddystone. The history of the Eddystone is a remarkable one. A line of rocks, 12 miles distant from the shore, stretches between the theStart Atlantic and Lizard, around 600 it,feet creates across athe whirl Channel, and a and, restless collecting motion the which waters have of these,suggested which, to seamen at low water,the signficant just raises name itself of the above Eddy-stone. the ocean level,Upon Henryone of raiseWinstanley, a wooden a man lighthouse. of singular It mechanical was 100 feet ingenuity, high, had contrived, numerous in 1696, quaint to parlance,projections, a high and seaan w'ouldopen gallery have carried at the atop six-oared through galley. which, Winstanley,in nautical however,within it believedon the inoccasion its stability, of a terrificand expressed storm. hisHis hope wish that was he mightgranted; be fearfulwhile effectinggale arose, some and alterations, the next morning on the therenight remained of November no vestige 26, 1703, of the a lighthousethis catastrophe but a the few poet rugged Gay refers:—stones and a fragment of iron chain 1 To That“ led Fam’d the Eddystone’ssailor thro’ the far stormy shooting way, ray AndWas thefrom huge its rockyturret roots in the by whirlwind billows tom, home.” attemptMr. John the Rudyerd, construction a silk-mercer of a more of durable Ludgate building. Hill, then Choosing resolved theto frustrumupon the ofrock, a cone and for thereupon his model, erected he built a superstructureup five courses of of wood, heavy simple, stones unornamented,was 92 feet high. and It free was from begun projections in 1706 and and completed open galleries. in 1709. TheFor whole years theit admirably morning answeredof December its 2,beneficent 1755, some purpose; Cawsand but Bay about fishermen, two o’clock and the on look-outs—gave the on alarm board that Admiral the Eddystone Westrode’s Lighthouse fleet—then atwas anchor on fire. in theIt Soundburnt blackenedfor day and iron night, remained. until by December the 7th only a few cramps of and,Mr. taking Smeaton, the thetrunk great of aengineer, forest oak was for now his applied model, tohe by commenced Government, the iterection on the of24th the of third August lighthouse 1759. It on was the a circular1st of June tower 1757, of stone, and completed sweeping inchesup with deep a gentle in the curve solid fromrock, theand base, gradually where diminishingit was set in towards a socket the 3 132 PLYMOUTH SECTION. thesummit. house, Ontheir the labour cornice is inwas vain the that inscription—“Unless build it.” the Lord build attacksThis lighthouse of the sea, maintained for more itsthan position, 120 years. secure The and rock, triumphant however, over upon the beingwhich itimperilled, was built awas new not lighthouse so impregnable, (the fourth)and the wassafety erected of the structureupon an adjacentThis structure, part of inaugurated the from May the1882 designsby the Dukeof Mr. of Edinburgh,Douglass in rises 1881-2. 130 ninefeet inchambers. height, consistsSmeaton’s of 2171 lighthouse stones roseweighing only 724661 feet tons, high, and weighed contains 988 thetons, Lizard. and contained four chambers. The new light will overlap that from Mount Batten, Staddon Heights, etc.—An interest- ing excursion to these places may be made along the east coast of the Sound. There is a frequent service of steamers across the Catwater, from the Barbican to Tumchapel, where the walk is best commenced, and Oreston. Here- abouts are huge lime and marble quarries. Mount Batten is a narrow promontory thrust forward between the Sound and the Catwater. It is surmounted by a fort. Staddon Heights are about ij mile further south. They command a near view of the breakwater, and a fine retrospect of the “three towns.” A line of fortifications has been erected upon them, and close at hand is the new Fort. Pedestrians may take these places on their way along the coast to , Newton Ferrers, and other places, to which we have already drawn passing attention in the route from Kingsbridge Road to the coast, etc. (p. 106). Plymouth to Kingsbridge (20 m.) by coach, leaving the Royal Hotel three times a week. This service offers conveniences to those who wish to explore the south coast between Plymouth and Dartmouth, as they may either leave or join the coach at several places on the way within a few miles of the sea. The chief of these are , 7 m.; Modbury (p. 107), 12£ m.; EXCURSIONS FROM PLYMOUTH. 133 and Ayeton Gifford, 17 m. The route itself, however, calls for little description. Crossing Laira Bridge (p. 12 9) it leaves the grounds of Saltram on the left, and the Oreston Quarries on the right. Beyond Brixton (5 m.) it passes by the beautiful grounds of Kitley, and so reaches the village of Yealmpton, parallel to, and some way above, the Yealm. Yealm Bridge is nearly a mile beyond the vil- lage. Near it is the famous bone cave wherein were once found the remains of different animals, from the elephant downwards. In another 2^ miles we pass the grounds of Flete on the right, and cross the Erme, one mile south of the village of Ermington (p. 107). Modbury (p. 107) is 2j miles further, and , where we cross the Avon at the commencement of a pretty valley, half way between Modbury and Kingsbridge (p. 103). A Sail up the Tamar.—In the summer time there is a public excursion by steamer up the Tamar nearly, if not quite, every day. Passing between the Devil’s Point and Cremill, and leaving the Royal Victualling Yard on the right, we enter the Hamoaze and skirt the long line of the Devonport Dockyard, crossing just beyond it the course of the steam ferry to Tor Point, which forms the main artery of road communication between Plymouth and Cornwall. The Hamoaze is the principal anchorage for the ships of war stationed at Plymouth. Beyond the ferry, on the right hand, is the Keyham Steamyard. Then on the left the Lynher inlet, skirted by the grounds of Anthony House starts away, and we come into view of the Royal Albert Bridge at , one of the greatest conceptions of Its length is 2240 feet; its breadth 30 feet; from its foundations to its summit it 134 PLYMOUTH SECTION. rises 260 feet, sufficient to clear a man-of-war with all her canvas set. It consists of 19 spans, each of double composed of 15 bars; the two central spans, rest- ing upon a main central pillar driven into the solid rock through 70 feet of sea and 20 feet of soil, extend 900 feet. The lower span carries the railway ; the upper, of wrought iron, is firmly attached to it. The main piers, on each side of the river, are 11 feet square, of solid masonry, and 190 feet from base to crown. 2700 tons of wrought iron, 1300 tons of cast iron, 14,000 cubic yards of timber, and 17,000 cubic yards of stone, were employed in the erection of this wonderful bridge. It was opened in 1859 by the late Prince Consort. Beyond the Bridge the Tamar expands again into what is, at high tide, a wide lake, branching out in less than two miles in four directions, the most northerly branches being the Tavy on the right, and the Tamar itself on the left. Close to the latter, on the left hand, is the village of Landulph, in whose church is a monumental brass, with a long inscription, to Theodore Palaeologus, last descendant of the Greek Emperors, who was buried here in 1636. A little further we pass, on the same side, the hamlet of Car Green (Inns), two miles beyond which the channel of the stream bends suddenly back to the left and forms a deep horse-shoe. At the keystone, as it were, of this bend, on the Cornish side, is Pentillie Castle, a pictur- esque building, designed by Wilkins, the architect of the National Gallery. Around it are venerable woods, and above it a lofty hill called Mount Ararat, crowned by a tower. Hereabouts are Vospar’s strawberry grounds, whence the earliest strawberries are sent to all parts of the country.

EIYEETAM4E.LOWER PORTION. RITES.UPPER PORTION.TAMAR.

THE TAMAR. 135 Beyond Pentillie, resuming our northward course, we reach, in less than three miles, Cothele Quay. Here is the landing for Cothele House (Earl of Mount Edg- cumbe) a fine old mansion of granite, surrounded by forest trees, and dating from the time of Henry VII. It is more fully described in our Cornwall Guide. The path to the house is a very pleasant one. Beyond Cothele the river commences a succession of eccentric windings, directed in turn towards every point of the compass. First it turns almost to the south-west, passing, on the Cornish side, the village of Calstock (Inn). Between this and New Bridge, where the road from Tavistock to crosses it, we have the finest scenery on the route. After passing Harewood House and , the river winds through a deep ravine whose sides are covered, on the Cornish side, with wood, and, on the Devon side, broken by the gritstone crags called Morwell Rocks. From Morwellham Quay the inclined plane of the , which passes for nearly two miles underground, ascends. By it you may climb to the Morwell Rocks, whence, after wandering your will by a variety of paths which command exquisite “ river-bits,” you may proceed northwards and join the Tavistock and Callington Road some way above New Bridge, and about 3 miles west of Tavistock. The steamer course ends at 'VYeir Head, 1 mile short of New Bridge, and about 24 from Plymouth. 136 PLYMOUTH SECTION. PLYMOUTH TO TAVISTOCK, by Rail. Plymouth to Marsh Mills, 4Tavistock, m.; Bickleigh, 16} m. 8 in.; Horrabridge, 12} m.; This is one of the mftst picturesque bits of railway in the kingdom. It belongs to the Great-Western Company, but is also used, in virtue of running powers, by the South- Western Company as its main line between Plymouth and London. From Devonport or Plymouth the route is identical with the main Great-Western line as far as Marsh Mills, before reaching which station it passes between the Laira Water on the right, and the green fortified hills which form part of the defences of Plymouth on the left. At Marsh Mills we diverge to the left and enter almost at once the Vale op Bickleigh, a picturesque- richly-wooded glen, very well seen from the railway, which climbs to a consider- able elevation above the stream. It may be traversed on foot from Marsh Mills to Bickleigh Station. The finest part of the valley, however, is a little beyond the latter, at Shaugh Bridge, a romantic spot, itself hidden in foliage, though the whole of its surroundings are com- manded by the railway. Above it rise Church and the Dewerstone—a perpendicular cliff of granite—a formation which tells us that we are now on the skirts of Dartmoor. The “Stone” may be easily at- tained Lorn the station. The village of Bickleigh is half a mile west of the station. It contains an inn. Proceeding on our way we pass through a tunnel and on to higher and more open ground. As we near Horrabridge the tors of Dartmoor appear on the right, and in the foreground a couple of PLYMOUTH TO TAVISTOCK. 137 narrow valleys, the larger of which is that of the Walk- ham, coining down from Merrivale Bridge. Walkhampton Church is, both in itself and by reason of its command- ing site, a most conspicuous object above the valley. Horrabridge (Inn: Roborough Arms) is a good place for commencing the exploration of Dartmoor. From it a road (p. 108) crosses the south-west corner of the moor to , and may he easily reached in a little over 6 miles. Both routes pass through Walk- hampton (Inn). The village of Horrabridge nestles at the convergence of the two valleys we have just mentioned. The station is high up above it, and the inn half-way between the two. One mile and a half west of Horrahridge Station is (Inn), a pleasant village, with a handsome Perpendicular Church, which contains some fine carving, a painted ceiling, fragments of old painted glass, and Bacon’s monument to Lord Heathfield, died July 6, 1790, the hero of the siege of Gibraltar. About 1 mile south-west stands , built by Richard Grenville, and disposed of by him to Sir Francis Drake, who bequeathed it, with the rest of his landed property, to his nephew Francis. An original portrait of the great searking, inscribed “iEtat. suse 53, anno 1594 his sword, drum, and Bible, are among the memorials here preserved. The old Abbey, a Cistercian house, was founded in 1278 by Amicia de Clare, Countess of Devon, and its position was eminently such as would recommend it to the Cistercian monks,—broad grassy meadows, sloping under the shade of umbrageous groves to the banks of a pleasant river. In the eleventh year of Edward the Third’s reign the monks obtained permission 138 PLYMOUTH SECTION. to castellate the building. The principal remains consist of a square tower, some arches, and hoary walls ; the abbey orchard, reputed to be one of the earliest planted in Devonshire, still yields an abundant yearly crop. Between Horrabridge and Tavistock the railway crosses, by a monster wooden viaduct, the Walkham, a little short of the confluence of that stream with the Tavy. Then, after enjoying a beautiful prospect down the valley of the latter river on the left hand, wo enter Tavistock. (For a description of the town see pp. 141-2.) DARTMOOR SECTION.

In this section is included the whole of that exten- sive upland of South Devon known as Dartmoor, and the towns and villages whose situation renders them the best headquarters for those who wish to explore it,—viz. Tavistock, Okehampton, Chagford, Moreton Hampstead, and Ashburton. The only carriage routes across the centre of the moor are those from Ashburton and Moreton Hampstead to Tavistock, which converge at Two Bridges. Pedestrians may take a north and south direction, making Okehampton and Ivy Bridge the limits of their journey, and staying a night at Prince Town or Two Bridges on the way. 140 DARTMOOR SECTION. DARTMOOR. General Description.—Dartmoor is the highest Eng- lish tableland of any size south of the Lake District. Its loftiest summit, Yes Tor, is a few feet lower than Kinder Scout in Derbyshire, hut its surface spreads over a wider extent of high, uncultivated ground than any plateau of the Peak District. Roughly speaking, it measures 25 miles from north to south, and 20 from east to west. The higher ground of this area is a treeless waste of undulating outline, broken only by bosses of granite rock, called “ Tors,” very much like one another, though a large number have individual associations. The most famous is perhaps , a little north of Two Bridges and of the main road from Tavistock to Moreton Hampstead, which formed the mid-stage of the highway from Ply- mouth to Exeter. Here, from a period to which history assigns no date up to the middle of the last century, were held the Parliaments, an assembly of delegates from the various neighbouring towns, whose office it was to settle all questions connected with the mining industries of the neighbourhood, especially that of tin. The last meeting took place in 1749. The highest of the Dartmoor eminences is Yes Tor, which attains an elevation of 2050 feet. An enumeration of the numberless other rock-excrescences which rise in all directions would be a mere repetition of names. The more remarkable ones will be mentioned in the routes which we shall describe across the moor, the central point of which may be said to be Cut Hill, between Two Bridges and Okehampton. Dartmoor is the fountain-level of numerous streams

DARTMOOR TAVISTOCK. 141 which flow north or south, as the case may he, and, with the Exe, the Otter, the Axe, and the Torridge, are the only important irrigators of Devonshire. Northwards, the mountain-torrent of the Taw forms the brimming river which enters the sea at Barnstaple. The East and West Otement are the chief feeders of the Torridge. South- wards, the streams, one and all, pursue independent courses throughout. The largest, and perhaps the most beautiful, are the Dart, the Teign, and the Tavy ; hut the Erme, the Avon, the Yealm, and the Plym, have all their special attractiveness. The northward streams issue from between their steep, wild, and uncultivated banks at once into the agricultural region of Mid Devon ; the southward ones find their way to the sea through winding valleys of great luxuriance, flanked by the greenest of hills, whose sides are in many places covered from head to foot with the richest foliage. The soil is principally peat, and the surface presents a succession of little ridges of rank grass, heath, and gorse, intersected at almost every stride by ruts. The chief drawback to haphazard travelling over Dartmoor is the rough character of its upper parts. No one whose aim is enjoyment should attempt to cross by any but the beaten tracks, except in clear and dry weather. Of the several towns on the borders of Dartmoor the largest and most convenient as a starting place for explor- ing purposes is TAVISTOCK. Hotels: Bedford (near the station); Queen's Head. DistancesLondon 17215 m. m.; (rail), Exeter, 13 (road). 32 m.Pop. (road), 6879. 42 (rail); Plymouth, Tavistock, the ancient Tau Vechan, or “ Little Tau,” is 142 DARTMOOR SECTION. one of the pleasantest towns in Devonshire. It is situated in a fertile valley watered by the Tavy, and flanked on the east by the long slope of Dartmoor, and on the west by the gentler eminences which rise between the Tavy and the Tamar. The vicinity is well wooded. The town itself has been considerably enlarged and improved of late years. It has a double service of trains from Plymouth, worked by the Great-Western and South- Western Companies, the former of which runs on to Launceston and the latter round the northern slopes of Dartmoor to Exeter. , whose ruins are close to the Bedford Hotel, and near the station, was founded in 961 by Orgar, Earl of Devonshire, the father of the “Elfrida” who bartered her husband’s life for a king’s love ; endowed and completed (981) by his gigantic son Ordulf; and dedicated as a Benedictine house to Sts. Mary and Rumon. In 997 it was plundered and burnt to the ground by the Danes, who carried fire and sword up the Tamar and as far as , but was rebuilt with greater magnificence, and became a favourite object of the devout liberality of the wealthy and noble. Henry I. was among its most prodigal benefactors. It continued the pride and boast of all the country side, and a source of mingled good and evil, until Henry VIII. suppressed it. At that date its enjoyed a yearly revenue of ,£902 :5 :7, sat in the House of Peers, and were supreme over all the Hundred of Tavistock. It became a mitred abbey in 1458. Its site and buildings, its manors and lordships, were bestowed in 1539 upon John Lord Russell, and thus was laid the foundation of the splendid fortunes of the ducal house of Bedford. TAVISTOCK. 143 Many of the abbots are reputed to have been wise and liberal scholars, and they established at Tavistock one of the earliest printing presses in England. The first printed copy of the Stannary laws, entitled “Ye Confirmacon of ye Charter perteyninge to all ye Tynners,” and Walton’s (a canon of Osmy) “ Boke of Comfort,” a translation of Boethius’ “ De Consolatione Philosophise,” were issued by the monastic printers. The ruins are situated on a narrow plain, slightly elevated -above the river. Upon the site, and with the materials of the old Chapter-House, a residence was built in 1736 by a ducal steward named Saunders ; and the site of his house is now occupied, in its turn, by the buildings of “The Bedford Hotel,” erected in the Eliza- bethan style about 1830. In their rear stands a pictur- esque pinnacled Porch. The Gate-house is in admirable preservation, and the upper room, distinguished by a mullioned window, is used as the Public Library. The main road runs through the archway. Oddest of the transformations is that of the old Refectory—where the good monks may have “sat and laugh’d, and the rich wine quaff’d”—into a “meeting house”! The Abbey Church, which measured 378 feet in length, was de- stroyed in 1670. Within the pleasant grounds of the vicarage stand the ancient Still-house, and Betsy Grim- bal’s Tower, where, it is said, the unfortunate Betsy Grimbal was murdered shortly after the suppression of the abbey. Some Early English arches, and portions of gray old walls, ivied and mossy, are also in existence, but chiefly incorporated with the surrounding buildings. The borough town of Tavistock owes its rise, of course, to the ancient abbey, which nourished and fostered it 144 DARTMOOR SECTION. until it was strong enough to make a mock of its unfor- tunate protector. At one time its manufacture of Kersey was considerable, and “ Tavistock Kersey ” was in request throughout the kingdom. During the civil war, Tavistock was strongly Parlia- mentarian, and was represented in the by Pym. Frequent collisions, therefore, took place be- tween the Roundhead burgesses and the neighbouring Cavalier gentry. The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Eustachius, is a stately Perpendicular pile, with a tower, nave, and triple chancel, thoroughly restored, at the ’s expense, in 1846. Its memorials are of high interest. Some bones of extraordinary size discovered in a stone coffin among the debris of the abbey are reputed to be those of the giant Earl Ordulf:— ‘1 A giant I, Earl Ordulf men me call, ’Gainst Paynim foes Devonia’s champion tall; In single fight six thousand Turks I slew; Pulled off a lion’s head, and ate it too : With one shrewd blow, to let Saint Edward in, I smote the gates of Exeter in twain; Till aged grown, by angels warn’d in dream, I built an abbey fair by Tavy’s stream.”—Kingsley. Sir John Glanville, who was born in the neighbourhood, and his lady are commemorated by a fine monument and well-sculptured effigies, temp. Elizabeth. The Bouchiers, Earls of Bath, and other important personages, are simi- larly honoured ; and the visitor will observe with pleasure the richly-coloured glass of the eastern window, by Wille- ment, and the exquisite carving of the altar-table, also the memorial to Sir John Fitz, of Fitzford, and his lady. HINTS FOR RAMBLES. 145 The is crossed here by three bridges, two of which are ancient. The canal between Tavistock and the Tamar, completed in 1817 at a cost of £68,000, is also spanned by a plain but substantial bridge. A handsome church, on Norman lines, has recently been erected at the west end of the town, on the road to New Bridge. Hints fob Rambles.—1. Fitzford, situated 1| mile on the Plymouth road,Fitzford.” and pleasantlyA bam, and commemorated a gateway of in the Mrs. date Bray’s of Henry romance VII.'s of reign, “ Fitz are of allCharles, that havein 1644, remained by its thenof this lord, ancient the loyal seat. Sir ItRichard was garrisoned Grenville, forbut King was captured,Sir John after Fitz a wasresolute a double defence, murderer—in by the Earl a ofdrunken Essex. bout he slew his theneighbour, king’s grace,Sir John was Slanning,overtaken and,by his hastening servant, whoto London had ridden to pleadafter himfor tothe apprise darkness, him he of fired some at importanthim and shot tidings. him dead,Not and,recognising quickly thediscovering man in hisAnother fatal error, of this slew remarkable himself in therace agony dealt oflargely his remorse. in the mysteries of the deringstars, and astray, yet withhis superior his wife, knowledge amid the didbleak, not bare prevent wastes him of fromDartmoor. wan- aAfter small many fresh efforts spring, to regainof which the theyright had road, no they sooner came drank unexpectedly than the direct upon placedpath across a memorial the moor in stonebecame over apparent the well to for them. the future In gratitude benefit of J travellers ohn Fitz misledat H mile by pixies.north ofAnd, Prince as evidenceTown, Dartmoor, of the truth gushes of thisforth narrative, a stream there, with thecertain date rough 1568. stone slabs about it, inscribed—I. F. (for John Fitz), and buildingContinuing of the furtherdate of Edwardsouth, wethe reachSixth’s Walreddon reign, embosomed House, in venerablea quaint Kilworthy,2. Another and ramble Mount should Tavy, be continuing in a north-west to Lidford, direction, and andreturning embrace by sionBrent on Tor.the riverMount bank, Tavy and (J.in theCarpenter shadow Gamier)of Rowden is aWood. good modemKilwortoy man- erection,was the ancient is embodied seat of the the old Gianvilles, hall. In theand valley in the below present ripples pile, thea Georgian beauti- ful“ Britannia’s Walla, whose Pastorals.” ardent passion for the Tavy may be read of in Browne's old3. wallsFrom of the the Walk—a Abbey—the beautiful tourist promenade may turn betweenoff to the the canal, Tavy and and keep the 146 DARTMOOR SECTION. along its bank as far as Morwellham Quay. He will pass Crowndale, Drake’s“Elfrida” birthplace—deriving legend—and, from its thence, name, passingaccording into to aMrs. mining Bray, district from the as hill,far as and the strikemouth through of the Morwell a pleasant tunnel, copse, 1} mileto the in Morwelllength, will Rocks. ascend Be-the miningneath flows district the lovely of Gunnislake, Tamar, and the the slopes surrounding of Hingston prospect Down, includes and the seetheleaf shrouded and bubble village about of Calstock. the renowned In theWeir centre Head, of and the onriver the theleft, watersabove thea screen scene of of foliage, Mason’s rises tragedy Harewood of “ Elfrida.” House (Sir William Trelawny, Bart.), and,From turning the rocks eastwards, the tourist return will by followthe Callington a winding road path into to Tavistock. New Bridge, above4. An the excursion sea), where up theit takes valley its of rise,the Tavyis one as to far be as warmly Fur Tor commended. (1980 feet Athe romantic Tavy Cleave,defile, through and there which is themuch river picturesque roars and rushes,scenery is about known ST. as wovenPETER rock, TAVY and and a rude ST. rustic MARY bridge—the TAVY, where Clam—to there be is admired. a famous Beyond, lichen- graniteare Cudlipp bed. TownFrom andFur HillTor theBridge, tourist where may thecross Tavy the foamstors inover a line its mileswith the from West Tavistock. Dart to Two Bridges, on the Moreton Hampstead road, 8 TAVISTOCK TO LIDFOED. For Launceston and Okehampton. , 3 m.;Okehampton, Lidford, 6J m.16} ; m., 10 m.; This part of the Exeter and Plymouth section of the London and South-Western Railway unites the sections already described on pages 62 and 136. Issuing from Tavistock, the line follows the course of the Tavy, and is closely hemmed in by hills on both sides. Between Mary Tavy, which has nothing but its Perpendicular Church to arrest attention, and Lidford, a view is obtained on the left hand of the sharp, isolated peak of Brent 'Tor (842 ft.). Beneath it is the village of the same name, and on its summit stands a small Early English Church, dedi- TAVISTOCK. TO LIDFORD. 147 cated to St. Michael de Rape, lighted by one window, and furnished with a good old oaken roof. The of the church bears a curious inscription :— “ Gallus vocor ego, solus per omne sono ”—(I am called a cock, because I alone ring out through everything). Brent Tor is, in all probability, an extinct volcano, and from its scathed and scarred appearance may derive its name, unless the origin is to be sought for in the bale- fires which, in the old unquiet days, shot up their warn- ing flames upon its lofty and blackened crest. Ledford (Inn: The Dartmoor Arms), though now a mere village, was one of the principal towns of Saxon Devonshire, and possessed a mint in the reign of Ethelred II. Edward IL bestowed the castle and lordship on his minion, Piers Gaveston, and the town maintained some degree of respectability as late as the reigns of the Stuarts. Its Castle, now reduced to a hollow square tower mouldering upon an artificial mound, was founded soon after the Conquest, and converted by Edward I. into the Stannary Prison of Devonshire. Until the last century it was still made use of for this purpose, though much defaced and shattered in 1650. The edicts of the Stannary Court partook to a considerable extent of the distinguishing characteristics of Lynch Law, and “ Lidford Law” became equally famous for a contemptuous dis- regard of justice. Browne, the Tavistock poet, exclaims— “ I’ve ofttimes heard of Lydford law, How in the mom they hang and draw, And sit in judgment after; At first I wonder’d at it much, But, since, I’ve found the matter such That it deserves no laughter. 148 DARTMOOR SECTION. “They have a castle on a hill; I took it for an old windmill The vanes blown off by weather : To lie therein one night, ’tis guessed ’Twere better to be ston’d or press’d, Or hang’d, ere you come hither.” Sir Richard Grenville was castellan of Lidford during the reign of Charles I., and many tyrannical actions are ascribed to him. Judge Jeffreys held here one of his Black Assizes, and the legend runs that the court-room is still haunted by his spirit in the guise of a black pig. Near the castle stands the gray, old, Early English Church, principally noticeable for the simplicity of its interior, its weather-worn aspect, and the noble prospects it commands. On a tombstone in the churchyard may be observed the following well-known epitaph :— “Here lies, in Horizontal position, the outside Case of George Routleigh, Watchmaker, whose abilities in that line were an honour to his profession: Integrity was the Main-spring, and Prudence the Regulator of all the actions of his life : Humane, generous, and liberal, his hand never stopped till he had re- lieved distress ; so nicely regulated were all his movements that he never went wrong except when set a-going by People who did not know his Key : Even then, he was easily set right again : He had the art of disposing his Time so well that his Hours glided away in one continued round of Pleasure and Delight, till an unlucky Moment put a Period to his Existence : He departed this life November 14, 1802, aged 57, Wound up thoroughlyin hopes of beingcleaned, taken repaired, in Hand and byset hisa-going Maker, in andthe worldof being to From the church we may make our way to Lidford Bridge, a single arch of gray stone flung across a narrow chasm 80 feet in depth, which opens suddenly, as it were, LIDFORD TO OKEHAMPTON. 149 in the earth, and receives the scanty waters of the Lyd. Descending the projecting crags which hang over the river, the tourist will be enabled to fully comprehend the char- acter of this remarkable scene. At a few paces below the bridge the ravine widens, and, “ instead of the dark precipices which have hitherto overhung and obscured the struggling river, it now emerges into day, and rolls its murmuring through a winding valley, confined within magnificent banks, darkened with woods, which swell into bold promontories, or fall back into sweeping recesses, till they are lost to the eye in distance.”—Warner. Lidford Cascade is some distance below the bridge, and is formed by the fall of a stream down a slaty preci- pice about 150 feet in depth. The course of the Lyd may be followed to its rise near Yes Tor, passing the small cascade known as Kitt’s Fall —where a young maiden named Kitty was drowned in the attempt to ford the river while swollen with heavy rains —and the basement stones of a curious Celtic hut, near Doe Tor. Or the tourist may descend the river to the village of Martstow, strike across to Lifton, and thence into Launceston. Lidford to Launceston, 12| m.—From Lidford the Launceston branch of the Great-Western Company strikes westwards, and follows the course of the Lyd to its con- fluence with the Tamar, 3 miles short of Launceston. For the first mile or two the line passes high up above the river on its south side, and commands a beautiful view of the richly-wooded valley below, after which it crosses the stream several times, and, passing Lifton, enters Cornwall. Lidford to Okehampton.—There is nothing of special interest between Lidford and Okehampton until the 150 DAKTMOOH SECTION. lofty viaduct over tlie West Okement is reached, 3 miles short of the latter town. Up to this point the line is on an almost continuous ascent, its highest point being at the junction of the Holsworthy branch, just before reaching the viaduct. The only station is Bridestowe, which is 1J mile from the village of that name. The bare sides of Dartmoor are skirted on the right the whole distance. The viaduct and the descent thence to Okehampton are described on page 64. Okehampton (Inns: White Hart, London, Plume of Feathers; Pop. 1695) calls for no further description in itself than that already given on p. 64. The Castle, about £ m. S.W. of the town, occupies a remarkably picturesque site. The ruins consist of a square keep, six centuries old, and other buildings of somewhat later date, whereof the Chapel is in the best preservation. They were prob- ably built by the Courtenays, but when Henry Courtenay was attainted of treason, in the reign of Henry VIII., the Castle was dismantled, and the adjoining Chace disparked. Beyond the Castle the tourist may proceed under the Meldon Viaduct (p. 64) to the summit of Yes Tor (p. 154). The road thence, or by Belstone, across the Moor to Two Bridges and Prince Town, is described the reverse way on page 154. From Belstone (small inn), 2| m. from Okehampton, Cawsand Beacon may also be easily ascended in less than an hour, and thence a descent made to the beautiful scenery of the Teign Valley about and Chagford. These places may also be reached by road direct from Okehampton. Chagford (p. 160) is a good 10 miles distant from Okehampton, either by road or over Cawsand. TAVISTOCK TO MORETON HAMPSTEAD. 151 TAVISTOCK TO MORETON HAMPSTEAD (21 m.); OR ASHBURTON (20 m.). Tavistock to Memvale Bridge, 4 m.; Two Bridges, 8 m. ; Newhouse Inn, Two 14Bridges in.; Moreton to Tavistock Hampstead, Inn, 7 m.;21 m. Ashburton, 12 m. The Bridges,divergence adds to nearly Prince a mile Town, to thebetween distance. Merrivale Bridge and Two Passing under the railway some distance north of the station at Tavistock, the Moreton Hampstead road com- mences the ascent at once. To the left is Mount Tavy, a modern mansion on the river-bank, and in the shadow of Rowden Wood. As we climb the hill there is a fine retrospect over the rich valley in which Tavistock lies, to the Cornish height of Kingston, on which a lofty column or engine-stack surmounting Kit Hill is perhaps the most conspicuous landmark in the south-west of England. N orth of Tavistock the isolated peak of Brent Tor (p. 146) is almost equally conspicuous. In less than 3 miles the moorland part of the road commences, and we come to close quarters with the first of the numerous tors which are the chief features of the rest of our journey. On the left, as we descend to Merrivale Bridge (inn) are the Staple Tors, and on the right Vixen Tor, which re- sembles the Egyptian Sphinx, especially when seen at sunset. Near Merrivale Bridge, on the right-hand side of the road, are sundry stone circles and avenues, ascribed, without any particular reason, to the Druids. Great Mis Tor, nearly two miles away to the north, has on its top a natural rock-basin, called Mis Tor Pan, about 10 feet in circumference. The road to Prince Town branches to the right 2 miles 152 DARTMOOR SECTION. beyond Merrivale Bridge, and near to Hessary Tor, on which are the huge granite quarries mentioned below. Prince Town (Principal Inn: The Duchy) is a place which has in itself little interest for a tourist, unless the sight and associations of a huge prison attract him. The one here was erected in 1808, at a cost of £127,000, as a secure place of confinement for our prisoners-of-war—the victims of Napoleon’s unbridled ambition. “ The captives of Britannia’s war, Here, for their lovely southern climes afar, In bondage pined ; the spell-deluded throng, Dragged at Ambition’s chariot-wheel so long, To die because a despot could not clasp A sceptre fitted to his boundless grasp.”—Mrs. Hemans. The prison was converted at the close of the war into a naphtha and ammonia factory, but in 1850 was reclaimed by Government, and employed as a convict station. Two strong walls enclose a circular area of about 30 acres, on which are built the prisons and offices. They are constructed of large blocks of stone, and radiate from a centre. Four of the buildings (each 300 feet long and 50 feet wide) are used as prisons. Upwards of 120 acres in the neighbourhood are cultivated by the prisoners, and produce barley, oats, flax, carrots, and mangold-wurzel. A little to the west of Prince Town lie the enormous Dartmoor Quarries, connected with Plymouth by the Plymouth and Dartmoor Railway. Some distance to the south-east rises the lonely eleva- tion of Fox Tor. PRINCE TOWN TO IVY BRIDGE. Pedestrian Route, 12-14 m. 5 hrs. walking.—This is as pleasant a moorland walk as can be taken across country, the PRINCE TOWN TO IVY BRIDGE. 153 way being ranch drier and better going than the average of Dartmoor routes. The general direction is south, with a slight inclination to the east; and care must be taken to avoid dip- ping into the boggy land at the head of both the Plym and the Ermo rivers, both of which should be skirted on the right hand side. Beyond Erme Head, Erme Pound is passed, and then a succession of Tors, including Three Barrows and , may be taken to Harford village. Both these tors are crowned by ancient cairns. The Ordnance Map to Devonshire is very old, and not always trustworthy ; but it is the only practical guide over the trackless parts of Dartmoor, on which one tor is so very like the other, that minute verbal description would only confuse the wayfarer. Between Harford and Ivy Bridge, a distance of 2J miles, the valley of the Erme is very beautiful. There is a good road above its eastern side, passing the modern mansion of Lukes- land (James Johnson MacAndrews, Esq.); but the scenery is best appreciated by crossing Harford Bridge, and descending by the west side of the stream. (For Ivy Bridge, see p. 107.) MAIN ROUTE—Continued. Between Prince Town and Two Bridges, a distance of nearly 2 miles, there is nothing noteworthy. At Two Bridges there is a comfortable inn—the Saracen’s Head by name, and the most central one on Dartmoor. Two Bridges to Okehampton, about 16 miles, 6-7 hours.— This is as good a route as any for exploring the northern wilds of Dartmoor. The central portion of it, however, beyond Cut Hill, is as rough and uncomfortable walking as can well be imagined. From the inn at Two Bridges we may strike northwards across the moor almost at once ; the best way on to it being perhaps a farm-track, about a third of a mile back on the Tavi- stock road. This crosses the Cowsick stream, and brings ns on to a long line of tors stretching northwards between the waters of the Cowsick and the West Dart. On the far side of the latter are Crockern Tor (p. 140) and Wistman’s Wood 154 DARTMOOE SECTION. (see below). Bounding the prospect northwards, we may see a hog’s-baek ridge, with a triangular mound in the middle of it. This is Cut Hill, 5 miles north of Two Bridges. To reach it we must keep as much as possible along the ridge. The cairn is surmounted by an Ordnance pole. From it a wide but monotonous view opens up in front. Northwards is Yes Toe, hardly distinguishable from its fellows, and nearer at hand the valley of the Tavy rapidly deepens. Cawsand Beacon, a long whale-backed ridge, is a little east of north. Beyond Cut Hill comes the most trying part of Dartmoor, the region of Ceanmeee Pool, about which a great deal of nonsense has been written. It is simply a huge peat-bog, full of ruts, but quite passable, except after an unusual quantity of rain. The tourist must decide on his further course for himself. In any case, he should proceed northwards, leaving the shallow depression in which is Daet Head, on the right. If he wishes to include Yes Tor in the excursion, he will then bend slightly to the left, crossing Okement Hill and Dinger Tor. Yes Tor commands an extensive view to the north and west. From directionit to Okehampton, into the valley the bestof the way West is Okement,to pursue awhich north-westerly is entered a little short of the lofty Meldon Viaduct (p. 64), whence is a plain road to Okehampton. If, instead of bending to the left from opposite Dart Head, we keep straight on, the little moorside village of Belstone will be reached at the end of a long and rough ridge of tors named after it; or the same place may be gained by turning slightly to the right from opposite Dart Head, and then taking a course northwards with the “infant” Taw on the left hand. By this route a cart-track will soon be found, which, passing under Cawsand Beacon, crosses the river and ascends at once to Bel- stone. At Belstone is a roadside inn, where the particulars may be obtained of a short and rather intricate cut to Okehampton. (For a description of Okehampton in its connection with Dartmoor, see page 150.) Two Bridges to Ashburton.—The chief points of interest on this route are Bridge and Chace. The former is 4J miles on the way, and the latter nearly double that distance. Between the two, 1 mile short of the latter, is a small inn. PRINCE TOWN TO IVY BRIDGE. 155 Quitting Two Bridges we pass, in 2£ miles, Dennabridge Pound, a stone enclosure which still serves its original purpose of a gathering place for cattle. A little farther the road descends to Dartmeet Bridge, close to which the East and West Dart unite their waters. Then rising again, it maintains a high level until the descent to New Bridge, at the west end of Holne Chace, is commenced. In and about Holne Chace is the finest scenery on the upper Dart; and to be thoroughly appreciated it should be seen in late autumn, when the brilliant nisset of the beech and other forest trees, varied only by the evergreen of the hollies, which give to the locality its name, and the still darker tints of the yew dominate the entire prospect. Much pleasant time may be spent about Holne Chace. Bound it the river pursues a tortuous course, flanked by steep and densely-wooded hills. A number of private drives are thrown open to the public by the kindness of their owners, Sir B. Wrey of Holne and Mr. Bastard of Buckland. The little village of Buckxand-on-the-Moor is less than a mile from the apex of the river-bend, and less than 4 miles from Ashburton. Buck- land Beacon, a mile to the east of it, commands a fine view southwards, comprising the estuary of the Teign and the coun- try between Newton Abbot and Torquay. Those who continue along the main road, without diverging at New Bridge for a closer inspection of the beauties of Holne Chace will reach, 1J mile farther, Holne Bridge, one of the most picturesque of the many picturesque bridges which span the Dart in its upper courses—a result due to its drapery of fern and ivy, and its tree-embowered situation, rather than to any special beauty of design. Holne Tillage is 1J mile south of our road. Its church contains some carved work and paintings of saints. Between Holne Bridge and Ashburton the scenery falls off in interest. (For Ashburton, see page 162.) MAIN ROUTE—Continued. Quitting Two Bridges we leave Crockern Tor (p. 140) on the left hand, and beyond it Wistman’s Wood, as a small 156 DARTMOOR SECTION. group of stunted, weather-beaten is called—relics, presumably, of the ancient , though it must not be forgotten that the word forest does not in any way testify that the region to which it is applied was ever covered with trees. The name Wistman is said to be a corruption of “ wise men,” meaning, of course, the Druids, and the tor on the opposite side of the Dart. Bairdown owes its name, says the same authority, to the bards. In 3| miles, after passing Belliver Tor'on the right, we reach Post Bridge, by which the road crosses the East Dart. Over the river, below Post Bridge, is thrown a Celtic Bridge, consisting of three piers of rough blocks of granite, supporting a roadway of huge stones, each 15 feet by 6 feet. On the right is Lakehead Pound, en- closing two acres. There is a similar enclosure opposite Hartland Tor. After ascending Merripit Hill, we reach New House, a small inn, near a large rabbit-warren. Observe the remains (on the right) of an ancient stone cross. Hence the tourist may make his way either across the moor, by a rugged path past Yitterfer Mine, or by a road branch- ing to the right in two miles, to Grimspound and Hamil- don Down, and so on to the remote village called Widdecombe-in-the-Moor, a total distance of about 8 miles. Grimspound is one of the most remarkable memorials on Dartmoor. It lies on the west side of Hamildon Down, and consists of a circular stone camp with walls of great thickness, and contains hut circles. Widdecombe has a Perpendicular Church, sometimes called the Cathedral of Dartmoor. The valley itself is many hundred feet above sea-level, but when seen from the surrounding heights presents a comparatively rich and MORETON HAMPSTEAD. 157 fertile appearance. There is a small inn in the village. The distance from Moreton Hampstead by the most direct road is more than 8 miles. Two miles or so beyond New House, and after obtain- ing a fine view to the north, we begin to descend to cultivation again. At Beetor Cross, 3 miles short of Moreton Hampstead, our road crosses the road from Chagford to Ashburton. Hence it is a pleasant walk into MORETON HAMPSTEAD, (Inns: White Hart; White Horse. DistancesExeter, Tavistock,(road) 12 m.,21 m.; (rail) Chagford, 32} m.; 4 Newtonm.) Abbot, 12 m. usually spoken of as Morton—that is, Moor-town—a small but clean market-town, in a remarkably tranquil and sequestered position. The Church, which is mainly Perpendicular, has no special interest. In the churchyard are remains of an old stone cross, and a vigorous but venerable elm tree, whose branches were formerly so trimmed and disposed of as to support a platform for dancers. The musicians were perched up in the higher boughs, and the dancers ascended to their leaf-embowered salon by means of a rude wooden ladder. Moreton Hampstead is one of a group of little towns, all of which possess in themselves or their surroundings much to interest the tourist, and are situated either on or within a few miles of the Moreton branch of the South Devon Railway. This branch leaves the main line at Newton Abbot (p. 74), and after following the valley of the Teign for a few miles, pursues the tributaries of that river as far as its terminus. 158 DARTMOOR SECTION. (Inns: Union, Dolphin), 6 m. from Newton Abbot and Moreton Hampstead, is tbe scene of Cromwell’s night surprise and total defeat of Lord Went- worth. Its Church, an old building carefully restored, partly Perpendicular and partly Decorated, is rendered interesting by the quaint epitaphs commemorative of Archbishop Laud and other Anglican martyrs, written by the vicar Forbes in the time of Charles II. Interesting excursions may be made to Hey Tor Rocks, 4 miles west, 1200 feet high, and commanding a splendid panorama southwards; to and Bottor, the latter overlooking the Teign valley, m.; to (2| m. by rail; Inn : the Cleave), a charmingly situated village, whence also , wonderfully wild and picturesque in its position, may be reached in a 3-mile walk ; and lastly on foot or by a short branch line to Chudleigh (Inn: Clifford Arms; Pop. 2000).—The station for this picturesquely placed little town is at Chud- leigh Bridge, half a mile out of the town. The greater part of Chudleigh was destroyed by fire in 1807. Consequently the present town is more new than interest- ing. Chudleigh Rock, however, with its caverns, and Ugbrooke Park, are objects of considerable interest, and the 10-mile walk or drive to Exeter over Great Haldon commands one of the finest prospects in the country* (see p. 43). The scant remains of the Bishop’s Palace are almost obliterated by a prolific orchard. Chudleigh Rock, a striking cliff of blue limestone, on the borders of Ugbrooke Park, is largely quarried, and is *a veryCanonteign, fine specimen S miles of above an old Chudleigh, Elizabethan on manor-house.the west bank of tbe Teign, CHUDLEIGH. 159 contains two caverns, the “Pixies’ Parlour” and “ Chud- leigh. Cavern.” The former, visited and sung of in verse by Coleridge, is half-way up the rock. It is reached through an open nearly 50 yards long and 4 wide. The Devonshire pixies were believed to he a race of tiny fays—the souls of infants who died unchristened— very sportive and blithesome, hut somewhat mischievous withab Woe to the thoughtless peasant who addressed them: he would surely die! But if he wore his coat with the wrong side outward, or crossed their path at happy Christmas time, he was safe from their spells. They were much given to nocturnal rides upon the farmers’ horses, and to stealing their cider, having a keen appreciation of good things. Gold, silver, jewels—these they treasured up in their mysterious caverns, though they never adorned their persons with them— “ Little pixy, fair and slim, Without a rag to cover him.” They lay about in the hedgerows’ shade like so many shapeless bundles, but started up into life and merriment when the stars came out, and gaily danced a frolicsome measure upon the blossomy mead— ‘ ‘ Then, for the third part of a minute, hence— Some, to kill cankers in the musk-rose buds ; Some, war with rear-mice for their leathern wings, To make my small elves coats; and some, keep back The clamorous owl that nightly hoots and wonders At their quaint spirits.”—Shakespeare. Chudleigh Cavekn is of considerable depth and con- tains stalactites, but is seldom visited. Ugbrooke Park (Lord Clifford of Chudleigh) lies south-east of Chudleigh, about a mile away, and is worthy 160 DARTMOOR SECTION. of a visit It is about 6 miles in circumference and beautifully diversified. An old camp, supposed to be Danish, occupies its highest point. Visitors are admitted to the grounds, but not to the House, a short distance from which the high road from Exeter to Newton Abbot over Great Haldon, 800 feet, passes (see p. 43). Chagford (Inns: Moor Parle, Three Crowns, Globe) is 4 miles west by north of Moreton Hampstead, with which it is connected by public conveyance twice a day. The village is pleasantly situated upon high ground, which rises somewhat suddenly out of wooded vales and romantic hollows. The charm of Chagford lies in its proximity to the upper valley of the Teign—as beautiful a river as even Devonshire can boast of. About 2 miles east of the village the stream enters a gloriously-wooded defile, along which every tourist should walk ; the path is on the north side, as far as Fingle Bridge, nearly 4 miles from Chagford. On the way, and just in the first bend of the river after entering the defile, is a reputed logan stone, which may have rocked at one time, but has long ceased to do so. Close at hand is Whyddon Park, where a fine old house reposes amongst ancient oaks and other forest trees. Between this and Fingle Bridge is the finest part of the scenery. The Bridge is a narrow, time-worn structure, covered with ivy and lichens. On both sides, the road rises steeply and deeply embowered in foliage. Hard by, a little north of the stream, is Preston Berry (Presson Berry) Castle, an ancient British camp, while on the south side, nearly opposite, is Cranbrook Castle, and two miles lower down the stream, Wooston Castle. All these are similar in character. VALLEY OF THE TEIGN. 161 From Fingle Bridge the tourist may continue along the river-side, past Wooston Castle and Clifford Bridge to Dunsfokd Bridge, where the scenery becomes more open. Hence to Exeter the distance hy high road is 8 miles, Bridge being about the same distance beyond Fingle Bridge. From the latter also Yeoford Junction may be reached, hy a succession of lanes, more difficult to trace than interesting, in about 8 miles. There is omnibus communication between Chagford and Yeoford, but the route is not by Fingle Bridge. A return may also be made from Fingle Bridge through the village of Drewsteignton, in the vicinity of which are many interesting antiquities—chief amongst them, a cromlech, 2| miles west, and close to Shilstone Farm, the stones of which fell down and were restored to their position in 1862. Hence the distance back to Chagford is about 3 miles. Gidleigh Park, etc., 2 m. from Chagford.—Here we have another very beautiful part of the Teign, as romantic, if not as bold, as Fingle Bridge. The stream pursues a most picturesque course through a rugged richly-wooded dell In the village of Gidleigh are the scanty relics of a Norman Castle. The walk may be continued to Oke- hampton, and the ascent of Cawsand Beacon be made on the way, the total distance from Chagford to Okehampton (p. 150) being a good 10 miles. ASHBURTON. Inns: Golden Lion and The London. 210 Newtonm. from Abbot; London; 39 10m. m. from from Exeter; Chudleigh; 19 m. from9i m. Dartmouth.from Totnes ;14 7 m. from BhanchTorquay; Railway 11 m. (vidfrom North Totnea, Bovey) 9J m. from Moreton Hampstead; and The vale or hollow in which Ashburton, an ancient stan- u 162 DARTSIOOK SECTION. nary and market-town, is situated, opens northward upon the desolate waste of Dartmoor and the upper waters of the Dart. Consequently, the rambles to he enjoyed in its vicinity are numerous, broadly distinct in character, and redundant in picturesque beauty. In the town itself all that is of interest may he seen in about an hour. There is the shop, formerly the Mermaid Inn, which was the headquarters of Fairfax in 1646 ; the Oratory, with its carved work in oak, in Mr. Parham’s house in West Street; and the modernised Perpendicular Church, with its tower 90 feet high, and its monument commemorative of Dunning, first Lord Ashburton. The town has given birth to two illustrious men:— John Dunning, eminent as a lawyer and parliamentary orator, created Baron Ashburton in 1782; and William Gifford, born in 1756, poet and reviewer, translator, and man of letters. His father, a painter and glazier, died while his son was still a child, and young Gifford had consequently to struggle against many years of crushing poverty. To Mr. Cookesley, a surgeon at Ashburton, he was at length indebted for his emancipation. From 1808 to 1824 he was the editor of the Quarterly Review. He died December 31, 1826. The country round Ashburton is beautifully wooded, and many delightful rambles may be taken through it. (1) Hey Tor Rocks, 5 m. N., see p. 158. (2) Buckland-on-the-Moor, m. N.W., and Holne Chace, 3 m. W., see p. 155. These two, as well as Buck- land Beacon, are conveniently included in one excursion of about 10 m. (3) Buckfastleigh (2| m. S. by rail), and Dean Court, ij m. farther, see pp. 99, 100. The carriage route across Dartmoor by Holne Chace is described the reverse way on p. 155. NORTH DEVON SECTION.

This section treats of the coast of the between Lynton, Ilfracombe, Barnstaple, Bideford, and Hartland, and comprises that part of Exmoor which is contained in the county of Devon. 164 NORTH DEVON SECTION. APPROACHES TO NORTH DEVON. There are many ways of reaching this district by rail and coach. The following is a list of the most convenient (for coaching information see “ Coach Routes,” below) :— 1. By L. and S.-W. Ry. to Ilfracombe, by Exeter. 2. By G.-W. Ry. to Barnstaple (change at Taunton), and thence to Ilfracombe by the G. -W. Ry. Go’s. 4-horse brakes. 3. By L. and S.-W. Ry. to Barnstaple (by Exeter), and coach to Lynton from Barnstaple (Junction Station), in connection with the railway; or by G.-W. Ry. (change at Taunton) to Barnstaple, and thence by coach to Lynton. In this case time must be allowed at Barnstaple for reaching the coach office from the G.-W. Station (Fortescue Street), half a mile distant 4. By L. and S.-W. Ry. to Bideford (by Exeter), and coach to and Hartland, in connection with the railway. 5. The following route is available in the summer only ; the and Lynton Coach commences running about 1st May, and is taken off about the middle of October. By G.-W. Ry. to Minehead (change at Taunton), and coach (in connection with the railway) to Lynton, and thence next day on to Ilfra- combe by coach. By sea, also, Ilfracombe may be reached : from Swansea all the year round,—in summer four or five times a week, in winter once a fortnight ; from Portishead (Bristol), during summer only,—in June three times a week, after 1st July, daily. The steamers from Portishead to Ilfracombe call, going and return- ing, off Lynton, weather permitting. The landing is by small boats, and, owing to the exposed nature of the beach at Lyn- mouth, is often difficult and sometimes impracticable. Coach Routes, Summer and Winter. 1. Barnstaple to Ilfracombe.—Brakes run daily in connection with trains on the G.-W. Ry., from London and all parts, vi& Taunton. At Barnstaple, from the G.-W. Ry. Station; at Ilfracombe, from the Clock-Tower Office, High Street. Dis- tance, 12 miles; time, 2 hours. The route is inland, and, though pretty and varied, is not in any way striking. APPROACHES TO NORTH DEVON. 165 2. Barnstaple to Lyrdon.—Coaches run in connection with trains on the L. and S.-W. Ry. from London, etc., mA Exeter. In winter three times a week ; daily during the tourist season. At Barnstaple, from Barnstaple Junction Station (L. and S. -W. Ry.); at Lynton, from Booking-Office, Churchill House. Distance, 18 miles. The route is pretty, and in parts wild. A few miles after leaving Barnstaple, the road mounts a long ascent, and reaches a height of about 1000 feet. In fact, though not called so, the ground traversed forms the western borders of Exmoor. After a sharp drop to Paracombe village, and another long climb, the way descends to Mill in the valley of the "West Lyn, which it follows to Lynton and . Good views over wild and rather desolate-looking moorlands are obtained between Paracombe and Lynton,—in the direction of Ilfracombe, Barrow (1500 feet high), and the sea beyond. Shortly before reaching Lynton there are one or two exquisite peeps of the sea at the extremity of the wooded gorge of the West Lyn. Available in Summer only. 3. Minehead to Lynton and Ilfracombe.—Between Lynton and Minehead the coach commences running about 1st May, three times a week. From the middle of July it commences running daily, and continues to do so up to the middle of October. It starts from the Royal Castle Hotel at Lynton, and the G.-W. Ry. Station at Minehead, and goes through . Distance from Minehead to Porlock, 6£ miles; to Lynton, 18 miles. This coach runs in connection with the G.-W. Ry. at Minehead, and at Lynton connects with the Ilfracombe coach (when running); see No. 4, p. 166. Starting from Minehead, the road, after following the course of a richly-wooded valley for 5 miles, opens upon the beautiful vale of Porlock, upwards of a mile in width, but brought to an abrupt end southwards by the deeply-combed slopes which culminate in Duxkery Beacon (1700 ft.) Beyond Porlock (Inn: The Ship) the coach road climbs by a long and very steep hill to the summit-level of Exmoor. There is a newer road, considerably longer, which passes through West Porlock, and then zigzags through the NORTH DEVON SECTION. woods to the top of the moor, rejoining the old road 3 miles west of Porlock. At County Gate, 5 m. short of Lynmouth, the road enters Devonshire. The narrow and beautiful East Lyn valley lies several hundred feet below on the left, and a view is obtained up the , a tributary stream, into which, on its western side, descends the tiny streamlet of the famous Doone Valley. The descent to Lynmouth commences at the village of Coun- tisbury, 3£ miles beyond County Gate, and is included in the description of Lynmouth itself on page 167. 4. Between Ilfracombe and Lynton.—A coach runs from about the middle of July up to the middle of October, going and returning on alternate days. From the Royal Clarence Hotel, Ilfracombe; the Booking-Office is immediately opposite—109 High Street. Distance, 17 miles. This coach is especially meant for passengers with luggage going to Lynton m& Ilfracombe, or through between Minehead and Ilfracombe. It runs in connec- tion with the Lynton and Minehead Coach (p. 165), affording through communication between Minehead and Ilfracombe. This route, however, involves staying the night at Lynton on the way. Besides this, two Excursion Coaches run daily there and back in the day between Ilfracombe and Lynton, from the first week in May to the middle of October. Time, 3 to 3J hours each way. The route is by Watermouth Castle, Combe Martin, and Paracombe, and though not to be compared with the magni- ficent Lynton and Minehead drive, is fine in parts, especially between Ilfracombe and Combe Martin, the road keeeping close above the sea the greater part of the way. The rest of the route followed is inland, over somewhat bare and desolate downs; from which, however, the views in descending, either to Combe Martin or Lynton, are very fine. 5. Bideford to Glovelly and Hartland.—Coaches run daily during the summer in connection with the mail trains to and from London, etc., vi& Exeter, from Bideford Ry. Station, leav- ing Bideford in the morning for Clovelly and Hartland, and returning from Hartland and Clovelly in the afternoon, arriving at Bideford in the evening. Distance from Bideford to Clovelly, 11 miles; to Hartland, 13|. This is a charming drive. The LYNTON AND LYNMODTH. 167 —here broad and tidal—is crossed by the famous Bideford Bridge, to which Kingsley devotes a whole chapter in Westward Ho Then, climbing by steep and narrow streets out of the town, our road keeps for several miles along high ground, every now and then revealing glimpses of the sea. After passing Fairy Cross and the turning to the beautiful Hobby Drive, the coach reaches the cross-roads at Clovelly Dikes, and a very steep descent is made into Clovelly. Hart- laud6. isBideford reached to from Clovelly Clovelly. and Bade.—ADikes is coachanother runs 3J miles.to Clovelly and Bude in connection with the L. and S.-W. By. at Bideford, three times a week, commencing about 25th June. Starts from L. and S.-W. By. Station at Bideford ; from the Falcon Hotel, Bude Haven. This coach from Bude connects with the North Cornwall Coach between , , and , vi& Boscastle, and affords a convenient means of visiting Bos- castle and Tintagel from North Devon. . Hotels at Lynton: The Royal Castle, attached to which is The Lynton grounds,Cottage; andand The are Valley beautifully of Rocks. situated Both ofon these high hotelsground have overlooking pleasure- Hotels at Lynmouth: The Lyndale, and The Bath. The approach to Lynmouth and Lynton by the high road from Porlock and Minehead is a most striking one. Unfortunately the majority of visitors, arriving by coach from Barnstaple or Ilfracombe, enter by a road giving a comparatively poor idea of the marvellously picturesque situation of the twin villages. The tourist is strongly advised to choose the first-mentioned route, either walk- ing or by the coach (see p. 165) running from Mine. l The village and golfing links of Westward Ho (p. 192), lie off the road canaway always to the be right. hired; There the distance is an omnibus from Bideford service, isand 2J privatemiles. conveyances 168 NORTH DEVON SECTION. head to Lynton in connection with the Great-Western Kailway. The best coup d’ce.il is obtained a few minutes after passing Countisbury. At this point the road, after traversing the high moorlands of Oare Hill at an eleva- tion ranging from 1000 to 1400 feet,—and at some little distance from, and only occasionally within sight of, the sea,—strikes the cliff-side, and descends a long and steep hill, cut in the slope of the cliff, and affording a fine view of hill, wood, and water. The length of this descent is Ij mile from Countisbury, 900 feet high, to the sea-level. At the foot lies Lynmouth, the most romantic little village in the west, with its two brawling streams—the East and West Lyns. These two streams tumble down two deep valleys or gorges, which start, as it were, from one common point, but diverge eastward and westward as they recede from the coast. The valley of West Lyn is clothed with trees, while on either hand the rocks rise in fantastic forms to an extraordinary altitude; and the river leaps and eddies, and whirls and seethes and frets, down its rocky bed. The valley of East Lyn is still more romantic in its character, and the stream falls in a succession of shimmering cascades among ferny depths, and in the shadow of magnificent trees. Southey speaks of Lynmouth as “the finest spot, except Cintra and the Arrabida ” which he had ever seen. “ Two rivers,” he writes, “join at Lynmouth. . . . Each of these flows down a combe, rolling over huge stones like a long water- fall ; immediately at their junction they enter the sea, and the river and the sea make but one sound of uproar. Of these combes, the one is richly wooded, the other runs between two high, bare, stony hills. From the hill between the two is a

LYNTOJf AND LTNMOUTH. 169 prospect most magnificent—on either hand combes, and the river before the little village. . . . This alone would constitute a view beautiful enough to repay the weariness of a long journey; but to complete it there is the blue and boundless sea.” Shelley resided for a time in 1812 at Lynmouth, where he was visited by William Godwin. The visitor to these parts should read, if he has not already done so, Blackmore’s novel, Lorna Doom, which contains many capital descrip- tions of North Devon, and especially Exmoor, scenery. The two streams of the East and West Lyn uniting form the tiny harbour, where a few fishing-boats are usually to be seen lying, their brown sails spread out on the quaint little pier of rough stones. The houses, amongst which are many pretty and comfortable lodging- houses, cluster round the bridges spanning the Lyns, and line the west side of the harbour. If Lynmouth has a defect as a seaside resort, it is the want of a good, smooth, sandy beach. In lieu of this, at low water, there is an expanse of rough black boulders, affording excellent scrambling, but rendering bathing somewhat difficult. Closely overlooking Lynmouth, and more than 400 feet above it, stands Lynton itself, on a sort of platform of high ground, half-way to the- top of the huge pointed hill forming the western promontory of the bay. The road mounts to it from the bottom of the valley by a series of zigzags carried up the side of the hill. The distance by this road is only half a mile between the two places, but it is a stiff ascent for either man or horse. On reaching the summit the tourist finds himself in the centre of Lynton, the pretty little Church and church- yard being on his right. On the same side are the two chief hotels. The path leading to the famous North 170 NORTH DEVON SECTION. Walk turns off to the right between the churchyard- wall and The Valley of Rocks Hotel. The Post-Office and most of the shops lie on the opposite side, down the steep lane facing the Church, and leading to the quaint entanglement of narrow up-and-down streets forming the village. Both at Lynton and also at Lynmouth there is a convenient small reading-room, to which the visitor is admitted on payment of a moderate sum. The Parish Church at Lynton is dedicated to St. Mary ; the tower is Perpendicular in style, but the nave has been twice rebuilt, whilst the chancel is modem. Besides this there is a new Church at Lynmouth. Before leaving Lynton and Lynmouth, it will be well to note some of the best of the many charming walks of one, two, or three miles, diverging in all directions. Starting from Lynmoitth. 1. Countisbury Hill by road, returning by footpath.—2i miles there and back. Follow the Porlock Road almost to the top of the long hill leading to Countisbury. A little more than a mile from Lynmouth, and some half mile short of Countis- bury, a cart-road will be noticed quitting the road at a sharp angle to the right. This, after, passing through an interesting camp on the top of the hill, with ditch and rampart still quite distinguishable, leads by a pleasant grass path down the slope again to Lynmouth, keeping 200 feet or so above the high road, and joining it again a quarter of a mile before the Lyn Bridge is reached. This walk keeps the sea in view the whole way. By continuing along the high road two or three hundred yards beyond the turning leading to the camp, towards Countisbury, an excellent view will also be obtained to the right—inland, up the deep valley of the East Lyn to Watersmeet. 2. To Wringcliffe Bay.—mile each way. Less than half- way up the Countisbury Hill above mentioned, we should turn LYNTON AND LYNMODTH. 171 out of the road to the left through a small swing-gate. At this point begins a footpath lately constructed, and carried along the side of the cliff in the same way as the more famous North Walk on the opposite side of the bay at Lynton. After keep- ing almost level for half a mile, it descends by a series of zigzags to the beach at Wringcliffe Bay. 3. Up the East Lyn valley to Watersmeet.—3| miles there and back ; 3J going or returning by footpath. Turning to the right past the Lyndale Hotel, the road should he followed by the side of the East Lyn. The road soon mounts to a consider- able height above the stream, and is carried terrace-wise along the side of the valley. It affords the most charming views of the winding wooded gorge and rapid tumbling river below. Watersmeet itself, at the meeting-place of two streams, is one of the most romantic spots in Devonshire. The way may be varied by crossing the Lyn at the first bridge—an ornamental wooden one—after leaving Lynmouth, and keeping a footpath, which winds along through the woods close to the stream, and on the side opposite to the road. The latter is rejoined a quarter of a mile before Watersmeet by recrossing the river by a small stone bridge, and mounting by a steep track up the side of the valley to the high road. There are no sea views in this walk, but nothing can be more charming in the way of mountain-stream and woodland scenery. Starting from Lynton. 1. The North Walk.—1J mile each way. The'Lynton walk par excellence is that along the North Walk. This is a path cut along the steep and rocky seaward slope of the hill forming the west side of Lynmouth Bay, and behind which nestles the village of Lynton. It is 430 feet above the sea, whilst above itreach the thesummit North of Walk the hill from rises Lynton, to about the the turning same toheight. the rightTo should be taken between the churchyard-wall and the Valley of Rocks Hotel; from Lynmonth it may be reached, without passing through Lynton, by either of the two footpaths which, besides the high road, connect the two villages, described on p. 173. The walk may be extended beyond the conspicuous 172 NORTH DEVON SECTION. conical crag — the Castle Rock—as far as the entrance-gate leading to the Lee Abbey grounds. The return can he made by the Yalley of Rocks. By entering Lee Abbey Park, through which there is a right of way, and adding a short half mile to the walk, Lee Abbey, with its picturesque gateway-tower and ivy-clad walls, may be included. 2. Valley of Rocks.—mile each way. Leave Lynton by the road passing the Church and the Yalley of Rocks Hotel. The return may be made by the North Walk, turning to the right at the end of the Yalley of Rocks where it opens to the sea, under the Castle Rock; or the road may be followed as far as Lee Abbey, as before. Just outside the boundaries of the Lee Abbey grounds, and beyond the Castle Rock, there is a charming little rock-bound cove, which should not be missed. It is reached by a path which zigzags down the cliffs to the beach. As for the much bepraised Yalley of Rocks, we venture to think that the visitor may he somewhat disappointed with its actual aspect, although he will be delighted with the beauty of the North Walk, and the views it affords. Barbrook3. The Mill,West Lyn1£ mile. Road.—To Leaving the Lynton first bridge, by the f roadof a miledescend- ; to ing to Lynmouth, this should be quitted at the angle of the first zigzag, keeping the road which continues on the level up the valley of the Lyn. The road is pretty and the valley richly wooded ; the scenery resembles that of the East Lyn valley in general character, but is not on the same scale. Three-quarters of a mile from Lynton, a small stone bridge to the left—a hundred yards above a pretty mill—crosses the stream, carrying the road to . Just over the bridge a footpath strikes off through the woods to the left, leading to Summerhouse Hill. three-quartersThe walk may ofbe aextended mile farther by following to Barbrook the directMill. roadThe areturn short may be varied by taking the upper road into Lynton, branching off the high road to the left. This is, in the main, a river and valley walk, but offers some beautiful peeps of the sea seen through the trees, closing the view down the valley. 4. To Summerhouse Hill.—3 miles- there and back. This is the same as the last walk as far as the first bridge, where the LYNTON AND LYNMODTH. 173 pedestrian should cross and take the lower footpath to the left. The path climbs the hillside in a slanting direction, at first through woods, and finally lands us on the open grassy top of Summerhouse Hill. This is the steep and rocky hill which divides the East and West Lyn valleys. A fine view of sea and hill, valley and stream, rewards the exertion of the climb. The village of Lynmouth and harbour are seen right below. 5. Footpaths between Lynton and Lynmouth.—Besides the regular road between Lynton and Lynmouth, there are two footpaths connecting the villages. Both are charming, twisting steeply up the wooded hillside, for the most part within sight of the sea. They give, from many different points, lovely views of Lynmouth, with its stream and harbour lying below ; of the bay bounded by the huge Foreland ; and of the rich West Lyn valley. In several parts the banks on either side are literally covered with the hart’s-tongue fern. Both are reached from Lynton by the footpath between the Church and the Valley of Rocks Hotel, which leads to the North Walk. In a hundred yards or so the first turns out of this to the right, rapidly descending the hill by a series of zigzags. It joins the main road a hundred yards from the bottom, just before the bridge is reached crossing the West Lyn. The other—if possible, the more picturesque of the two—leaves the first a short distance after its commencement, turning sharply to the left, and keeping close above the sea in its descent. It comes out at the entrance of the harbour, passing the pretty row of cottages by the quay- side, and terminating at the pier. BRANCH ROUTES. Lynton and Lynmouth are good headquarters for two longer expeditions of much interest,—to Glenthorne and to the famed Doone Glen. 1. Glenthorne, by coast path, returning by high road, about 14 miles. To reduce the walking distance one half, it will be well to hire to Glenthome, and return by the coast path.—The Porlock Road should be departed from at Countisbury, passing close by the Church, and entering a grass path beyond it. This path winds round the hill, leaving the Foreland considerably 174 NORTH DEVON SECTION. on the left. Then either a sharp drop into Countisbury Cove and a corresponding climb on the far side must be made, or a wide circuit taken to the right. After this the path continues at a considerable height above the sea, ever and anon sweeping round to the right, so as to avoid the combes which sink abruptly to the shore. The scenery is alternately bare and richly wooded. The path enters the grounds of Glenthorne by a wicket-gate, and shortly after joins the carriage-drive, passing under an ornamental archway. The house of Glenthorne is not shown to visitors, but the owner—W. H. Halliday, Esq.— allows them to wander freely about the grounds. The glen is small, but abounds in shrubs and trees, and is watered by a pretty streamlet. So steep is the ascent from the house to the Porlock and Lynton Road that the drive is 3 miles long, though a good-winded pedestrian may halve the distance by cutting off zigzags. 2. The Doone Glen, by the East Lyn and Rockford Inn, 8J miles, returning by Porlock Road and Countisbury, 7i miles; 16 miles in all.—Leaving Lynmouth by the East Lyn Road, at a quarter of a mile before reaching Watersmeet the road should be left by a track descending sharply to the left, and the river crossed by the rustic stone bridge seen below. Or the Lyn may be crossed by the first bridge—an ornamental wooden one—out of Lynmouth, and the footpath on the other (north) side of the water followed all the way. The track continues from the stone ofbridge the streamon the asnorth far asbank the Rockfordof the Lyn, Inn and (2J follows miles to the Watersmeet windings fromfront Lynmouthof the inn ; crosseson tothe Rockford). river once Hereagain, a andplank we bridge join thein road from -Brendon to Oare, which continues up the valley by the waterside, 2| miles more, to Farm, passing, a short mile beyond Rockford Inn, the little hamlet of Millslade, whereat is another small but good inn, The Staghunters’, also known as Millslade Abbey. At Malmsmead (6J miles from Lyn- mouth) turn off to the right along the lane leading up the valley by the side of the Badgworthy Water. In half a mile, opposite the last house in the valley—a small farmstead—the lane be- comes a footpath, winding along the bank of the stream. About EXMOOR. 175 1J mile beyond Malmsmead is the entrance to the famous Doone Glen, which strikes off1 to the right (westwards) into the recesses of Badgworthy Wood. Returning by the same way,—down the Badgworthy Valley and past Malmsmead, where modest refresh- ment may be had,—we arrive at Millslade. Here we should turn to the right and cross the bridge over the river. The road mounts steeply, and a mile farther joins the Porlock and Lynton Road high up on the downs, less than a mile from Countisbury ; thence by the high road home. Or the Doone Glen may be reached by the West Lyn Road and Brendon ; the distance is the same—Lynton to Brendon, 3J miles; Brendon to Rockford Inn, half a mile.—The Brendon Road is the first turning to the left out of the West Lyn Road, less than three-quarters of a mile from Lynton, crossing the river by the stone bridge where the Summerhouse Hill footpath branches off. From here to Brendon Church—standing alone by the wayside, and overlooking the country far and wide—is 24 miles of very up-and-down travelling. After a descent of half a mile more the Rockford Inn is reached, whence the way is as before. Exmoor.—Exmoor may be conveniently explored from Lynton or Lynmouth as a starting-point Although the greater part of this wild upland district lies in Somerset, it may be convenient here to indicate the chief points of interest, and the best walking-routes across the Forest to and from Lynton. The highest point of Exmoor is Ditnkery Beacon, 4 miles inland and southwards of Porlock ; 14 miles by road from Lyn- mouth. The best way of visiting it from there is to take coach 1 Of the Doone houses, or rather hovels, little remains hut a few rude timesquare can foundations, they have and been a piece anything of stonework but the resemblingsmallest and an oven.roughest At noof lawlessresidences. robbers The who Doones infested themselves Exmoor were at the a familybeginning of utterly of the lastreckless century, and theyand were drove not the got neighbourhood rid of until, by to a exasperation. peculiarly barbarous For aU murder the facts, at Exford,and no referredsmall amount to Blackmore’s of fiction, Loma about Doone. these people, the tourist need hardly be 176 NORTH DEVON SECTION. to Porlock, thence to the top, and walk hack—a hard day’s work. The road back to Lynton passes the tiny Church of Stoke Pero, and joins the high road 2£ miles Lynton wards of Porlock. The walking distances are—Porlock to the top of Dunkery, 5 miles (by road); Dunkery Beacon to junction with Porlock and Lynton Road, 4|; thence to Lynmouth, 9J ; in all, 19 miles. The Beacon is 1707 feet high ; there is nothing of the mountain-peak about it—only a gently-rounded, swelling, heather-clad hill—but the view from the top is well worth the climb. It embraces to the east the Brendon, and beyond them the Quantock Hills, the sea northwards, the rolling downs of Exmoor to the west, with a peep of the Dartmoor Tors far away southwards. On a clear day it is even possible to see the Malvern Hills in the north-east, and the Cornish heights of Brown Willy and Row Tor in the opposite direction. Exford and Winsford lie to the southward of Dunkery Beacon. They are both on the Exe, the former 4J miles higher up stream from the latter. Both are pleasant rustic villages, and afford excellent fishing-quarters, each possessing a comfort- able inn. Exford is 14, Winsford 17, miles from Lynton, by . Simonsbath and Withypoole are also favourite fishing resorts. They are situated on the , a branch of the Exe. Withypoole is 4 miles from Winsford ; 2J' from Exford ; whilst Simonsbath is 5£ miles up stream from Withypoole. There is a small inn at Withypoole, and another, with a wine license, at Simonsbath. The distances from Lynton are—9j miles to Simonsbath, 15 to Withypoole. The former—Simons- bath—may be visited in the day by a good walker from Lynton. He should return by Mole’s Chamber (7 m. from Lynton), the scene—it is no more, for the bog has been long drained—of the death of an (perhaps mythical) Exmoor farmer, Mole by name, who rode his horse for a wager into the redoubtable morass, and was swallowed up incontinently, man and horse. The round— starting by Brendon Road, returning by Mole’s Chamber and West Lyn Road—is 19 miles; or Simonsbath may be reached in about 5 miles by continuing over hill and valley almost due south from the Doone Glen. EXMOOR. 177 Three or four routes across Exmoor are added for the benefit of pedestrians:— 1. South Molton Ey. Station (G.-W. Ry. from Taunton to Barnstaple), by Mole’s Chamber, to Lynton, 15 miles.—A good way of reaching Lynton on foot, though hardly Exmoor itself. The road crosses the borders of the moor, and is an open breezy walk. 2. Ry. Station (G.-W. Ry. from Taunton to Barn- staple), by Withypoole and Simonsbath, to Lynton. To Dul- verton town, 2 miles; Withypoole, 8 ;• Simonsbath, 5£ ; Lyn- ton, 9£,—25 miles in all. An omnibus runs from the station at Dulverton to the town, a distance of 2 miles. There are good inns both at the station and in the town.—This is a fine walk, mostly over high open moors, following the general direction of the Barle, but only touching it—after Dulverton is once left well behind—at Withypoole, and again at Simonsbath. It gives a good idea of the Exmoor country. Lynton is entered by the Brendon Road, Brendon itself being passed, half a mile off the route, to the right. 3. Dulverton Ry. Station, by Winsford (or by Withypoole), to Exford ; thence over Lucott Hill (1512 feet), and by Porlock road, to Lynton. Station to town, 2 miles; Winsford, 5J ; Exford, 4J (Withypoole, 8 miles; Exford, 2J); Lucott Hill, 3£; junction with Porlock and Lynton Road, 2; Lynmouth, delightful8J,—in all, walk, 26 miles traversing ; by Withypoole, the heart ofhalf Exmoor, a mile andfarther.—A passing Exford. The highest points are at Winsford Hill, if the Withy- way is taken,—the Dulverton and Withypoole Road fol- lows the summit ridge,—and Lucott Hill, over 1500 feet high. The return route by the Porlock and Lynton Road crosses Oare Hill, and enters Lynmouth by Countisbury. 4. Dulverton Ry. Station, by Winsford and Dunkery Beacon village,(1707 feet) 2 miles; and Winsford,Porlock Road, 5J; top to ofLynmouth. Dunkery, 5; ToPorlock Dulverton road, 4J (top of Dunkery to Porlock is 5 miles); Lynton, 9J—in all, 26i miles. There is- no difficulty in finding the way to the top of the Beacon. The road crosses the ridge within a third of a mile of the summit; the cairn is plainly seen to the right hand. Front the top to where the Porlock to Lynton high road is joined—a N 178 NORTH DEVON SECTION. mile and a half out of Porlock—is 4J miles of up-and-down lanes, the way winding round the heads of several deep combes. Stoke Pero, with its tiny Church, is passed on the way. This is Ifa magnificent it be taken day’s in the walk, reverse giving direction—making the cream of Exmoor Lynton scenery. the starting-point—the coach may be utilised, either as far as the point where the road diverges for Dunkery—a mile and a half short of Porlock—or to Porlock itself. The walking distance is thus diminished to 16J miles in the former case, and 17 in the latter. 5. Combe Eow ( Mineral Ry. ; change at from G.-W., Taunton to Minehead Line), over and Dunkery Beacon, to Lynmouth. Combe Row to Raleigh’s Cross, half a mile; Barrow, 5 ; top of Dunkery Beacon, 6J; Porlock Road, 4J ; Lynmouth, 9£,—in all, 26 miles. From Combe Row Station a sharp mount of half pedestriana mile straight to Raleigh’s up the hillsideCross; hereacross the country road is willentered bring which the keeps along the summit ridge of the Brendon Hills for 7 miles. At Cutcombe Barrow (5 miles) begins the long and gradual descent; then comes a final climb to the top of Dunkery, 12 miles from Raleigh’s Cross. From Dunkery Beacon the pedes- trian may proceed, as in Ho. 4, to the Porlock Road, and so to Lynmouth and Lynton. MAIN ROUTE—Continued. Lynton to Ilfracombe, passing Combe Martin.—Lynton to Combe Martin, 11J miles; to Ilfracombe, 17. The coacfi road keeps inland as far as Combe Martin, and is somewhat uninteresting in character. Those who are independent of the coach are advised to take the coast- road (posting or on foot) in preference, described on p. 180. Or those on foot may keep the coast all the way by road and footpath ; see “ Pedestrian Coast Tour,” p. 200. Rather less than half-way between Lynton and Combe Martin the quaint little village of Paracombe is passed, COMBE MARTIN. 179 lying in a deep hollow. The Paracomhe stream is the same which, four miles lower down, enters the sea at Heddon’s Mouth, after cutting its way through the deep and romantic Paracombe Gorge between and Trentishoe, in which, about a mile from the sea, lies the well known Hunters’ Inn. Combe Martin (ll£ miles from Lynton) lies prettily in a well-wooded valley. The village street is more than a mile in length, and opens on the rock-bound hay form- ing the harbour for the fishing-boats. In the middle of the village stands St. Peter’s Church, built of red stone and Perpendicular in style. It contains a marble monu- ment and effigy to Dame Hancock, who died in 1637, and a richly-worked rood-screen. A mine of’ silver was worked in this neighbourhood during the reign of the Plantagenets, and a cup made of the native metal was presented by one Sir Richard Bulmer to Queen Elizabeth. Attempts were made to revive the work in 1813, and again in 1835. A new smelting-house was erected in 1845, but three years later the mine was closed. There are a few small lodging-houses in the village, and visitors in search of quietness may pass a very pleasant time at Combe Martin. There is a good bathing-place in the first cove westwards of the bay, and walks in all directions—westwards along the Ilfracombe Road, and to Berry Narbor, southwards to the top of Berry Down; whilst over the downs rising on the east side of the village there are numberless charming rambles to be enjoyed, especially to the magnificent hills overlooking the sea— the Little Hangman (1083 feet), and Great Hangman (1200 feet): From Combe Martin onwards to Ilfracombe (5j miles) 180 NORTH DEVON SECTION. the road is carried along the cliff-side and close to the sea as far as Watermouth Castle. At several points it rises several hundred feet above the sea, and affords most ex- quisite downward peeps into rocky inaccessible coves, where the waves are breaking far below. Watermouth Castle (C. H. Basset, Esq.), picturesque and ivy-covered, lies low, at the head of Watermouth Cove. Widemouth Head, Rillage and Helesborough Points are passed, and the pretty elm-girdled village of Hele, and Ilfracombe itself is reached (17 miles from Lynton). BRANCH ROUTE. Lynton to Combe Martin, by Valley of Rocks, Martin- hoe, Hunters’ Inn (Heddon’s Mouth), and Trentishoe. This is a more varied and picturesque route than the coach road. The distance is no greater—Lynton to Hunters’ Inn, 5j fair,m.; thoughHunters’ steep. Inn toThe Combe start Martin, from Lynton 6 m.,—and is made the through roads very the Valley of Rocks and past Lee Abbey. The way is through woods, clothing the slopes of the downs above the sea as far as Woodabay, where the road strikes inland and upwards to Martinhoe, a tiny village perched high up on the hill-top. Thence is a mile and a half descent to the Hunters’ Inn, where the Paracombe Water is crossed. Here a halt should be made, and Heddon’s Mouth—the little rock-bound bay at the foot of the Paracombe Gorge— visited. The walk from the Inn to the Mouth is a mile by foot- path through woods and by the side of the stream. The path diverges close to the Inn. The sloping sides of the Gorge are steep and close, rising to 1000 feet on either side. The lonely little bay, where the stream forces its way through the pebbly beach to the sea, is charming. Prom Hunters’ Inn the road continues, climbing steeply for a mile through woods, to Trentishoe, with its little church;

ILFRACOMBE. 181 thence over wild open moorlands along the flank of Trentishoe Barrow, and between it and the Great Hangman—the two highest hills about here, and conspicuous in all the westward views from Lynton and its neighbourhood,—finally descending (Hi miles from Lynton) to Combe Martin. The coast may he kept still more closely between Woodabay and the Hunters’ Inn by pedestrians, passing Heddon’s Mouth on the way. (See Pedestrian Coast Tour, p. 200). ILFRACOMBE. HotelsRoyal s The Britannia; Ilfracombe, Queen’s;—in with grounds the mainof 5 street,acres; etc. The (Pop.Royal 6043).Clarence; Steamers plyseason regularly to Clovelly, to Swansea and occasionally and Portishead to (Bristol), Island. and in the Several craggy heights or tors, 400 feet high, bound its harbour westward, the most notable of which is the Cap- stone, a conical elevation of shale, along the side of which the Parade has been constructed. From the Capstone, a pier (850 feet in length) stretches partly across an inlet of the sea, and so encloses a basin sheltered from tempestu- ous winds, and of sufficient depth of water to admit vessels of considerable burthen. To the eastward this inlet is protected by the lofty elevation of Helesborough (500 feet), whilst on the western side, above the pier-head, rises Lantern Hill (100 feet in height), crowned by the picturesque Chapel of St. Nicholas, now used as a light- house. The beaches of Ilfracombe consist of shingle, and are not very comfortable for bathers. The principal bathing-places are situate behind the Baths. They are approached by a series of tunnels. At the ladies’ beach there is a rock-bound pool well adapted for bathing. In addition to the hotels, there are many good lodging- houses in Ilfracombe. For the summer visitor it com- 182 NORTH DEVON SECTION. bines many advantages. It is easily accessible, whether by train, coach, or steamer; good drives may be had on all sides, whilst the town itself is clean and bright. There is no lack of the ordinary watering-place amuse- ments during the season. In winter the climate is wonderfully mild and equable, making Ilfracombe a favourite resort for invalids.; in summer, if there is a defect, it is on the side of too much hot weather. The town consists in the main of one long street running down a tolerable declivity, from the church to the harbour, for about a mile. The best houses, however, are to be found in Coronation and Helesborough terraces, stretching along the slopes of the Eunnacleaves at the east end, and at the Tors on the west. The Church of the Holy Trinity was built in the twelfth century, but greatly enlarged in the fifteenth. It consists of a nave, chancel, north and south aisles, 115 feet long by 61 broad. The font is Norman ; the pulpit dates from the reign of James I. The principal memorial is the sarcophagus of Captain Richard Bowen, E.N., slain in Nelson’s unsuccessful attack upon Teneriffe, July 24, 1797. The Church of Sts. Philip and James was built from the designs of Mr. Hayward in 1855. The Pier was first constructed in 1731 at the expense of the Bourchiers, Lords Fitzwarine ; repaired in 1761 ; and enlarged in 1829 by Sir Bourchier Wrey, who erected a new pier and landing-stage. The Baths are placed at the mouth of a tunnel, which leads under the Eunnacleaves to the Crookhorn Cavern, dry at low water, but filled by the tide except for three months in the year. The tradition runs that here, during one of these periods of three months, and immediately after Thomas a Becket’s murder, ILFRACOMBE. 183 Sir William Tracy Md himself for a fortnight, and was fed by his daughter. The manor of Ilfracombe, included in the barony of Barnstaple, descended from the Tracys to the Martins and Audleys, reverted to the Crown, passed to. the Bour- chiers, and from them to their descendant, Sir Bourchier Wrey. A market was granted to it in 1278 by Edward I. It contributed 6 ships and 82 mariners to the expe- dition destined against Calais in 1346. In September 1644 it was seized for King Charles by Sir Philip Doddington, but soon afterwards regained by the Parlia- mentarians. Colonel Wade and others, fugitives from the lost field of Sedgmoor (1685), seized a barque here, and attempted to put out to sea, but a man-of-war hove in sight, and compelled them to return. In the pretty cove of Wildersmouth the Ilfracombe Hotel has been built; while below the Seven Tors Road is White-pebble Bat, so named from its beach of white quartz pebbles. A rock here is known as Lover’s Leap. The chief walk in the vicinity of Ilfracombe is called the Tors Walk, which skirts the sea. It was formed by a Company, and a charge of one penny is made at the entrance, which is at the west end of the town. It affords some fine views of the Bristol Channel. SHORT WALKS FROM ILFRACOMBE. 1. To Hole and Helesborough.—:3 miles there and back. Leave Ilfracombe by the Barnstaple Road; very soon quit it by a footpath crossing the fields to the left. A quarter of a mile short of Hele the footpath joins the Combe Martin Road, which descends to Hele—lying prettily in its wooded hollow— and a quarter of a mile farther still to the sea, at the little bay 184 NORTH DEVON SECTION. where Hele Brook joins the sea. Half a mile more along the road from brings the visitor to Billage Point, and another half mile to within sight of Watermouth Castle. The return may be varied by climbing Helesborough Hill (500 feet high), crowned by some ancient earthworks, and affording a fine view of the sea and Ilfracombe itself, rejoining the footpath in the hollow two or three hundred yards from its junction with the Barnstaple Road. 2. The Barnstaple Hoad affords a pleasant, if unexciting, walk. It passes the Runnacleaves, and continues through rustic country by the side of a small stream. 3. The Old Barnstaple Road to Winsom Farm, returning by the Cemetery.—2J miles. This road, which leaves Ilfracombe main street 300 yards below the Church, should be followed as far as Winsom on the right hand, turning off through the farm- yard and then by a footpath, returning by the Cemetery. Both these two last are purely inland walks. 4. By the Road to Slade Down.—3 miles there and back. Turning to the right by the Church, the pedestrian should follow the road leading to Lee Bay and . Three- quarters of a mile after leaving Ilfracombe the road comes within sight of the sea, keeping high up along the seaward slope of the Down. Turning out of the road to the left, and climbing Slade Down (666 feet), a splendid sea view is the reward ; a mile farther along the road is Lee Bat. The return may be made by descending the opposite side of the hill, keep- ing over the open ground in a S. E. direction to Slade hamlet, and thence by road, entering Ilfracombe past the Railway Station. This will add a mile to the walk. Ilfracome to Barnstaple.—12 miles. The road passes the village and Church of , and, a mile and a half before reaching Barnstaple, Raleigh House. The present house stands on the site of the old one, which was the mansion of the Raleigh family, though Sir Walter Raleigh himself was born (in 1552) at Hayes Barton Farm, near East Budleigh, in the valley of the Otter in South Devon (see p. 18). The house stands to the left of the road to one entering Barnstaple, on a pleasant slope above the River Yeo. Just short of Barnstaple, ILFRACOMBE TO MORTEHOE. 185 the village of Pilton—only separated from the town by the branches of the Yeo river—is traversed. Here is an ancient Church, noticeable for its pulpit and the iron stand for the hour-glass by which the preachers measured the length of their discourses ; also for the doggerel inscribed on one of its bells :— “ Recast■Who the by best Thomas prize Taylorfor Church-bells and Son, won AtIn London,the Great l-S-5 Ex-hi-bi-ti-on and one.” BRANCH ROUTE. Ilfracombe to Mortehoe, Morte Bay, ' Sands, and Baggy Point. The village of Mortehoe is 5 miles from Ilfracombe. It stands on high ground at the back of Morte Point, one mile from the extremity^ and within a quarter of a mile of the beginning of the sands of Morte Bay, which it overlooks. The broadest and best expanse of sand, however,—Woolacombe Sands,—begins a mile southwards of Mortehoe, at the farmhouse and small hamlet of Woolacombe Tracy. There are numerous conveyances running regularly from Ilfracombe to Morte Bay during the season (a favourite excursion). Mortehoe Station— 34 miles by rail from Ilfracombe—is within a two miles’ walk of Mortehoe, and rather less to Woolacombe. There is an inn— The Fortescue Arms—at the station. The whole length of the sands from Mortehoe to Baggy Point is 3 miles. William Tracy (died 1322), a former vicar of the parish, is buried here; the tomb-slab is carved with figures of a priest in priestly robes, and holding a chalice in his hand, and of St. Catherine and St. Mary Magdalene, to whom the Church is dedi- cated. William de Tracy—one of the four knightly murderers of Thomas h Becket—is said also to be buried here. Close to the seashore at Woolacombe stands an old farmhouse—Woolacombe Tracy—which, local tradition declares, marks the spot where the holy Becket’s murderer lived in dreary exile, “ when wind and weather turned against him.” The popular rhyme runs :— “ TheHave Tracys always the wind in their faces." 186 NORTH DEVON SECTION. Southwards stretch the Woolacombe Sands, “remarkable as being the only sands along the north coast, and as presenting a pure and driven expanse for some miles. Here—so runs the legend—he was banished ‘to make bundles of the sand, and binds (wisps) of the same ’ ” (Dean Stanley, Historical Memorials of Canterbury),—a doom which recalls the tales about Michael Scott, the great north-country wizard. Moete Bay well deserves its reputation. A finer sweep of broad, smooth, firm sand—wind-driven, and beaten by the long roll of the open Atlantic—does not exist. The bay is enclosed by bold headlands at either extremity ; on the north by Morte Point, with its black, jagged cliffs, here rising to the height of 800 feet; on the south by Baggy Point, of yellow sandstone, and a favourite resort of sea-birds. Under the cliffs of Morte Point lies Barkicane Creek, rich in shells ; whilst out to sea the waves dash fiercely over the ill-famed Morte Stone, fatal to many a gallant vessel. No place is more attractive to bathers than Morte Bay ; but the tide runs with immense force, and in many places obliquely to the shore. No one, however strong a swimmer, should bathe alone here. Baggy Point is a difficult place to get at, except for a fair walker. There and back is a good 20 miles’ drive from Ilfra- combe, and the same from Barnstaple. From Mortehoe Station it is quite 7 miles to the extremity of the Point; from Station, 6. The last is the best route from Barnstaple. From Mortehoe Village it is a 44 miles’ walk, going along Morte Bay and 'Woolacombe Sands; 34 from Woolacombe Tracy. The view is magnificent, extending northwards over the sands and Morte Point to the distant coast of South Wales beyond, and including Lundy Island, out to sea; southwards, past the estuary of the Taw and Torridge, to the rich coast-line by Clovelly and Hartland. For the pedestrian route from Ilfracombe to Barnstaple, keep- ing the coast all the way, and passing Mortehoe, Woolacombe, and Baggy Point, see Pedestrian Coast Tour, p. 200. BARNSTAPLE. 187 BARNSTAPLE. Inna:Distance: Golden Lion, 208 m.Fortescue from London. Arms, King’s Arms,Population, Fleece 12,282.and Angel. ThereFortescue are three Street, Railway half aStations mile from here. the centreThe Great-Western of the town, is theStation station at forJunction Taunton, Station, Bristol, on andthe thefarther North, side Bath, of the and river, London. is the Barnstaplestation for ExeterBideford and and the Torrington South-Western in the Lineother. to BarnstapleLondon in Quayone direction, (also South- for town,Western) though is the of coursestation the for trains Ilfracombe start from nearest the Junction.to the centre of the Barnstaple is tlie capital of North Devon, a parliamentary borough returning two members, and a town of consider- able antiquity, finely situated on a broad land-locked river, and in the bosom of gentle hills. At the division of England among the Conqueror’s adherents the manor fell into the hands of one Judhael de Totneis, who rebuilt the Saxon castle, and founded a priory which he dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. Of the former the Keep-mound remains; the memory of the latter is preserved in Maudlyn Rock Close. Barnstaple Bridge, originally erected in the thirteenth century, but enlarged and restored in the nineteenth, here spans the river on 16 arches. It is now supplemented by the railway bridge. To the west runs Queen Anne’s Walk, a piazza, rebuilt in 1798, which was designed to serve as a “West-country” Exchange. It is adorned with a statue of “ the good queen ” in whose reign it was originally erected. The Church, dedicated to Sts. Peter and Paul, has a remarkable spire, struck by lightning in 1816. On each side of the altar stands a life-size marble statue—one of Moses, the other of Aaron. The Albert Memorial, situ- ated near the square, consists of an elegant clock-tower, 188 NORTH DEVON SECTION. with drinking fountains at its base. A pleasant tree- bordered promenade on the river-bank is called the North Walk. When the tide is full and the sunset falls in purple glory upon the wooded hills, a stroll in this direc- tion is much to be approved of. A promenade, above the town and adjoining the river, called the South Walk, adds to the amenity of the town. The Almshouses in Litchdon Street are of some interest, architecturally. They were founded by John Penrose, mayor of the town in 1627, and have not suffered alter- ation since. The houses, 20 in number, are built in the form of a quadrangle, with a sort of cloister, wooden- roofed, and supported on granite columns, opening out on the road. The chapel, which contains a portrait of the founder by Janssen, is at one end of the cloister, and the council-room at the other. When in Litchdon Street, a visit may also be paid to the Art Pottery, where the so-called Barum ware is made. It somewhat resembles Doulton ware, with figures of birds, flowers, etc., cut into it like Italian Sgraffito. Barnstaple Fair (on* the last Wednesday but one of September) is the Saturnalia of North Devon, and marked by observances which cannot fail to amuse and interest the stranger. MAIN ROUTE—Continued. Barnstaple to Bideford.—8 miles; road by Freming- ton and , 9 miles. Road or rail. The direct road is inland ; that passing Fremington and Instow—the more interesting route—keeps by the side of the broad estuary BARNSTAPLE TO BIDEFORD. 189 of the Taw river ; and, after passing Instow,—Appledore is directly opposite on the other side of the water,— ascends the bank of the Torridge to Bideford Bridge. These broad and winding tidal rivers, surrounded by gently undulating hills and rich woods, are characteristic of Devonshire scenery. At Fremington (3 miles from Barnstaple) the Taw gets clear of its sandbanks, and deepens into an arm of the sea. Three miles further comes Instow, and, just beyond, Instow Quay,—both of which occupy a fine position at the meeting-point of the two rivers, the Taw and the Torridge, and enjoy such a varied prospect of sea and land and river, of sandy tracts, and broad green meadows, as few towns in England can boast of. There are stations both at Fremington and Instow Quay. The latter is a small watering-place, and possesses some lodging-houses. Its Church, dedicated to St. John, is a good specimen of Perpendicular. On the other side of the Taw lies the quaint old sea- town of Appledore, so often referred to and so lovingly described by Canon Kingsley in his novel of Westward So / It stands on the point of land jutting out into the broad estuary of the Taw, just at its junction with the Torridge, and within two miles of the open sea. Between the village and the sea lies the great sandhill tract known as Northam Borrows. Northam village lies to the south, mile—half-way—on the road to Bideford. It has a pretty Church, St. Margaret’s. Northam Burrows is some 1000 acres in extent, a wide expanse of turf, fenced off from the Atlantic by the Pebble Ridge, a natural wall of gray boulders, slate, and sandstone, 2 miles in length, and 20 feet in height. Beyond the Burrows, south-west- wards, is the new watering-place of Westward Ho (see NORTH DEVON SECTION. p. 192). Appledore is built close down to the water’s edge, and is a pleasant, white-washed, old-fashioned village. From Instow Quay to Bideford is 3 miles more, com- pleting 9 in all from Barnstaple. On the way are passed, —on the left, the grounds of Tapeleigh, and, just beyond, —on the same side,—the village of Westleigh, standing a little off on the high road, on rising ground. BIDEFORD (HotelsDistance: s Tauton’s 216 m.Family from Hotel, London. The New Population,Inn, Newfoundland. 6512) was once a wealthy and important seaport town ; and in the reign of Queen Bess none were more forward, even amongst the intrepid men of Devon, than they of Bide- ford, in voyages of discovery and adventure. Kingsley describes “the little white town of Bideford, sloping upwards from its broad tide-river, paved with yellow sands, and many-arched old bridge, where salmon wait for autumn floods, toward the pleasant upland on the west. Above the town the hills close in, cushioned with deep oak woods, through which juts here and there a crag of fern-fringed slate : below they lower, and open more and more in softly-rounded knolls, and fertile squares of red and green, till they sink into the wide expanse of hazy flats, rich salt marshes, and rolling sand-hills, where Torridge joins her sister Taw, and both together flow quietly toward the broad surges of the bar, and the ever- lasting thunder of the long Atlantic’s swell. Pleasantly the old town stands there, beneath its soft Italian sky, fanned day and night by the fresh ocean breeze, which forbids alike the keen winter frosts and the fierce thunder BIDEFORD. 191 heats of the midland ; and pleasantly it has stood there for now, perhaps, 800 years, since the first Grenvil, cousin of the Conqueror, returning from the conquest of South Wales, drew round him trusty Saxon serfs, and free Norse rovers, with their golden curls, and dark Silurian Britons from the Swansea shore, and all the mingled blood which still gives to the seaward folk of the next county their strength and intellect, and, even in these levelling days, their peculiar beauty of face and form.”—(Westward Ho!). The town and manor remained with the Grenville, Gren- vil, or Grenaville family until 1734. Its streets are broad, and slope towards the beach; hut few of the houses have any architectural pretensions. St. Mart’s Church was built early in the fourteenth century, but has been rebuilt; its western tower is 70 feet high. It contains a circular Norman font, and the tomb and figure of Sir Thomas Graunfyld (died 1513), the only monument of the Grenvilles, though the family were patrons of the Church. The death of the naval hero’s widow is thus entered in the parish register :— “The Ladie Mary Grenvile, daughter unto the Right honour- able Sir John St. Leger, Knight, deceased, and wife to that famous Warrior Sir Richard Grenvile, Knight, also deceased, beinge in his life time the Spaniard’s terror ; She was buried in theNovember, Grenvile’s A.D. Isle 1623.”—(Polwhele’s in the Church of Bediford,History of the Devon). fifthe daie of The Quay, fronting the town and bordering the water- side, is 1200 feet in length. But the glory of Bideford is its Bridge, consisting of twenty-four arches, and being 677 feet in length. “Every one who knows Bideford” (we again quote from Kingsley) “ cannot but know Bide- ford Bridge ; for it is the very omphalos, cynosure, and 192 NORTH DEVON SECTION. soul around which the town, as a body, has organised itself; but all do not know the occult powers which have advanced and animated the same wondrous bridge for now 500 years, and made it the chief wonder.”—(Westward Ho f) The trusts of the bridge, amounting to upwards of £400 per annum, are vested in eighteen feoffees, for whose use a hall was built in 1758. Within 2| miles of Bideford is the rising watering- place of Westward Ho. Conveyances can be hired from Bideford at any time, and omnibuses meet the trains at Bideford Station. It is the same distance from Apple- dore, and lies at the southern extremity of the great ex- panse of the Northam Burrows; here are the “ links,” which make Westward Ho the great English rival of St. Andrews as a playing-ground for the “ royal and ancient ” game of golf. The whole place is new, and still has something of a bare unfinished look ; whilst the amuse- ments are confined to golf. At the same time there is the best of air, a fine beach, and an open sea. The lodgings are good, clean, and comfortable. Two miles down the Torridge from Bideford is the Hubba- stone, indicating the grave of the Danish Hubba, who, with the crews of his twenty-three ships, was defeated and slain by the men of Devon, a thousand years ago, a.d. 878 ; and “there was taken that war-flag which they called the Raven. ” BKANCH ROUTE. Bideford to Annery, Wear Gifford, and Torrington. From Bideford also may most conveniently be visited the charm- ing inland town of Torrington (6 miles), where dwelt “the Rose of Torridge.’’ It is a place of some size, with a fine Church, and stands beautifully on rising ground above a bend CLOVELLY. 193 of the Torridge, 10 miles from the mouth of the river. It may be reached by train from Barnstaple and Bideford, the L. and S.-W. line from Exeter terminating here. By road there are two ways of reaching it from Bideford; the more picturesque is that leaving Bideford at the south end of the town, without crossing the bridge, and following the windings of the river. Three miles along the road, and a mile after passing Lancross Church on the left side, lying a quarter of a mile to the right, is Annery, so famous in the pages of Westward Ho / On the other side of the Torridge, and half a mile farther, lie Wear Gifford Village and House (Earl Fortescue), with its noble oak groves. Tourists should not fail to visit this fine old manor-house, about whose tapestried chambers and antique hall the presence of the Elizabethan heroes still seems to linger.

MAIN ROUTE—Continued. Bideford to Clovelly and Hartland.—To Clovelly, 11 miles ; to Hartland, 13|. From Hartland to Hart- land Point, 3 miles; to Hartland Quay, 2|. After issu- ing from the steep streets of Bideford, the road to Clovelly keeps along pleasant heights within a mile or so of the sea for the ten miles to Clovelly Dikes, the point where the high road is left, one mile from Clovelly itself. The more picturesque way of approach, however, is by leaving the main road a quarter of a mile after passing the eighth milestone from Bideford. Here is the eastern entrance to the famous “ Hobby ” Drive, constructed by a former owner of the great house of the neighbourhood, Clovelly Court. This winds through lovely woods overhanging the sea for 2| miles, and finally opens into the village street about the middle, a quarter of a mile above the harbour. o 194 NORTH DEVON SECTION. Clovelly (New Inn and Red Lion) may be considered as a village occupying a position of peculiar difficulties. From its beginning, where its principal street first plunges down from the high road to its end at the pier below, there is not 50 yards of level ground. The slope in parts is almost precipitous, and is varied every here and there by steps. The only patch of level is a sort of landing in the street-staircase, two thirds of the way down, commanding a view of the harbour. Which forms a village-centre and eyrie for the local mariners. Pretty cottages line the street on either side, here two or three together, there standing apart, almost all with gardens, perched on every coign of vantage, and turned at every sort of angle to the winding way. At one point the village seems to end abruptly, till the stranger discovers that the road is literally carried through a house, which blocks the way, by means of an archway. A little below this the tiny harbour is reached, with its quaint little rustic pier, sheltering its red-sailed fishing- boats, while the whole—hill-slopes, street, and houses— is embowered and half-hidden in trees. The views from many points on this winding street- staircase are picturesque in the extreme, the sea below often appearing enclosed, as it were, in a framework of oak- leaves. Half-way down the village and on the left hand stands the small New Inn. The visitor will be attracted by its collection of china, although here, as elsewhere, caveat emptor is a good piece of advice. The Red Lion is also a comfortable house of entertainment. The stone pier was built by George Carey in the reign of Richard II., and was enlarged about the beginning of this century. From the pier-head a characteristic view of the village and cliffs is obtained. The inhabitants CLOYELLT. 195 are chiefly employed in the herring, sole, and mackerel fisheries. Exquisite walks may be found in all directions round Clovelly. 1. Eastwards: the Hobby Drive extends for 2| miles to its junction with the high road, 2£ to the point where it finally turns inland away from the sea. 2. Inland: to Clovelly Dikes (Ditchen Hills), 3 miles there and back. Climbing the main street and turning to the left along the high road at the top, at the junction-point of this latter with the main Bideford and Hartland Road, will be found the exten- sive circular British Camp, known as Ditchen Hills, otherwise Clovelly Dikes, occupying a lofty position within a mile of the sea. The three trenches vary from 18 to 20 feet in depth ; the diameter of the outer trench is 1300 feet, the inner one forms a parallelogram of about 360 by 300 feet. A return may be made taking in part of the Hobby Drive. The pedestrian should turn to the left from the Dikes eastwards along the Bideford Road ; and again to the left at right angles at the second turn- ing on that side, 200 yards before reaching the ninth milestone from Bideford. This lane joins the Hobby Drive one mile out of Clovelly. This lengthens the whole walk to 3| miles. 3. dovelly Court (Sir J. H. Williams, Bart.) is situate half a mile to the west of the village. It is a handsome Georgian mansion, erected in 1780. Close by stands the Church. The grounds are open to the visitor by the favour of the owner. They are of great beauty, the paths winding by lichen-covered rocks, and through leafy glens and ferny combes opening sud- denly upon the sea. The park was once famous for its hawks. —“A Clovelly hawk against the world !” 4. Gallantry Bower and Mouth Mill, through Clovelly Court grounds.—To Gallantry Bower, 1J mile; a short half mile farther to Mouth Mill, Gallantry Bower is the name given to a steep and lofty cliff, which overlooks a glorious panorama of sea on the one side and richly-wooded country on the other. It is 380 feet in height, and 1 mile, as the crow flies, westwards along the coast from 196 NORTH DEVON SECTION. Clovelly Harbour. To reach it the way is through the grounds of Clovelly Court; then striking down to the coast, and for the last half mile keeping the ridge of the cliffs,—returning the same way. Mouth Mill, a pretty combe, where two streams unite, opening to the sea, is reached by continuing along the same track half a mile farther. Off the headland forming the eastern boundary of the little bay are the curious detached Black Church Rocks, worn by the Atlantic waves into large natural arches, through which a boat may safely pass in calm weather. From Mouth Mill the return may be varied by follow- ing the cart-road up the western branch of the combe for half a mile ; then taking the first turning to the left, which mounts the hillside and rejoins the Gallantry Bower route near Clovelly Court, returning past it again to Clovelly. This round alto- gether makes up not much less than 4 miles. Prom the cross-roads at Clovelly Dikes to Hartland is 3 J miles farther along the main Bideford Road ; 4| from Clovelly itself. Prom Hartland to Hartland Point is 3 miles, through charming rustic country-lanes. The Point is a magnificent headland of dark rock, jutting out into the Atlantic and forming the extreme N.W. corner of this part of Devonshire. It is 350 feet high and carries a lighthouse. At Hartland Quay there is a rock-bound harbour and pier. It is miles beyond Hartland, and terminates the main road from Bideford, being 16 miles distant from that town. Between Hartland and Hartland Quay the village of Stoke is passed, with its pretty old Church and churchyard; and the stately mansion of Hartland Abbey (Sir G. Stukeley, Bart.), reposing amid luxuriant woods on a green and pleasant valley-slope. Of the ancient monastery,—founded by the Countess Elgitha in grateful commemoration of the escape of her husband, Earl Godwin, from shipwreck, and dedicated to St. Nectan, in whose interposition she believed,—the present mansion embodies the Decorated arched cloister, built by Abbot John of Exeter. The CLOVELLY. 197 effigy of a Crusader is also preserved. The family of Stukeley has long been established in this part of Devon. and Marsland Modth, from Hartland.— Five and a half miles from Hartland, and close to the Cornish border, lies the picturesque village of Welcombe, a mile and a half inland from the little bay of Welcombe Mouth. A mile and a half farther (7 m. from Hartland) and on the actual border-line —the brook that here enters the sea divides the counties—is Marsland Mouth, a characteristic combe, opening upon the sea. It is the scene of the interview in Westward Ho l between the fair “ Rose of Torridge ” and “ the White Witch.” Within 2 miles over the border in Cornwall is Morwinstow, mounted high on the cliffs above the wild coast, a name indis- solubly connected with that of its late rector, the Rev. W. Hawker, the poet. Farther along the same coast, and 15 miles from Hartland, is Bude. The whole of the coast scenery in this part, from Morwinstow round Hartland Point, and as far as Clovelly, is of the most magnificent description,—an iron- bound shore, with towering cliffs, exposed to the full fury of the ocean.

NORTH DEVON COAST. Lynton to Haetland. Table of Main and Beanch Routes. Distance in Miles. Lynmouth and Lynton—Barbrick Mill—Paracombe. Combe Martin, 11. Watennouth Castle—Hele—Ilfracombe, 16. Lynmouth to Glenthorne, 7. ,,„ to DooneExmopr Glen, ; Dunkery 7® Beacon, 14; Exford, 14; Winsford, Mole’s18 ; Simonsbath, Chamber, 7;8; SouthWithypoole, Molton, 14;16. Dulverton, 23; Lynton Martinhoe—Hunters’ -Valley of Rocks—Lee Inn (forAbbey—Woodabay. Heddon’s Mouth, one mile), 5. IlfracombeTrentishoe—Trentishoe (as above), 16.Barrow—Combe Martin, 11. Ilfracombe—Bittadon—Raleigh House— Pilton—Barnstaple, 10. Ilfracombe—Lee Bay—Mortehoe and Bay, 5. toWoolacombe Baggy Point, Tracy 10. and Sands, 6. Barnstaple—Bideford, 8. Barnstaple——Fremington—InstowTapeleigh—Bideford, 9. and Instow Quay, 6. Ilfracombe—Barnstaple, 10—Bideford, 18. Bideford—Fairy Cross—Hobby Drive—Clovelly, 11. Clovelly Dikes—Hartland, 16. Bideford—Northam—Appledore, S£. „ to WestwardLancross—Annery—Wear Ho, 8. Gifford, SJ—Torrington, 7. Hartland„ toto StokeHartland and Point,Hartland 3. Abbey—Hartland Quay, 2). „ to Stoke—Welcombe,Marsland Mouth, 5£.7. 200 PEDESTRIAN NORTH-COAST TOUR. PEDESTRIAN NORTH-COAST TOUR. Minehcad, by Lynton, to Ilfracombe (2 days).—For pedestrians Coastwith ais limitedstrongly time recommended. before them, Thea walk following along theroute North from DevonMine- advantages.head (Somersetsiiire), It is only by a Lynton,two days’ to expeditionIlfracombe, in combinesitself, but many may beand extended Baggy Point, to three to Barnstapleby continuing or Bideford, along the and coast, to fiveby Mortehoeby going strikingon as far inland as Clovelly from Lynton,or Hartland, Exmoor and may thence be included.to Bude ; Thelastly, track by partfollowed of itkeeps footpath close alongto the thesea sidenearly of thethe wholecliffs, — distance,—a 40 miles of great the fectmost halting-placeromantic coast-line — Lynton—midway, in England. Theredividing is, themoreover, journey a per-into ingtwo anddays’ finishing work of point about have 20 milestheir eachrailway ; whilst, station. finally, ■ both start- is 1422From feet),Minehead passing to Porlock;Oare and Porlock, the Doone over Glen Oare on Hill left, (highest Glenthorne point mouthWoods andsloping Lynton—19 to the sea miles on right, in all. to Countisbury;The road keeps and on sohigh to Lyn-open ground—beingsea much of the partway. of ThereExmoor, is alsoin fact—anda way from within Minehead sight toof Por- the inlock distance, by cart-road and superior over the in North views, Hillbut (1000somewhat feet), difficult about the to samefind. TurningNorth Hill, up pastby Bossington the Church village, at Minehead, to Porlock. the wayThe descendsroute may from also keepingbe varied on between through PorlockPorlock andQuay, Lynton thence in through several theways—(1) grounds By of bone,Ashley where Combe is one (Earl of theLovelace)—small numerous smallest fee to Churches gatekeeper—to in England Col- ; to(2) Brendon, By descending and by from the valleyOare Hillof the upon West the Lyn village to Lynton of Oare, ; (3)thence By TheseOare and last the two East digressions Lyn valley, miss passing the sea, Watersmeet, but include to Lynmouth.valley and theriver entrance scenery ;to the the road Doone passes Glen, Badgworthy and Rockford Wood, Inn within ; or a (4)mile the of onwardscoast may from be ,kept closely through all thethe wildway bygrounds taking (free the tocliff-path visitors) neckof Glenthorne, of the Foreland, and past and Glenthornejoining the LynmouthHouse, finally Road crossing at Countis- the bury.Sleep at Lynton ; next day proceed to see Abbey, either by theWoodabay, North Walkto Heddon’s or through Mouth,—by Valley of cliff-path Rocks ; thence,onwards passing from LYNTON TO HARTLAND. 201 Woodabay.Paracombe GorgeFrom to Hunters’Heddon’s InnMouth ; from the there path the windsroad climbsup the to Trentishoe,1000 feet), anddescends crossing to theCombe shoulder Martin. of TreutishoeThe road Barrow still keeps(over theIlfracombe. coast, past Watermouth Castle and the village of Hele, to Miles. Digressions. Culbone,Porlock, PorlockOare Hill Quay. (1). Porlock.Culbone, Glenthome, Countisbury,mouth (4). Lyn- Countisbury.Lymuouth. 3Jij WestOareHill, Lyn Oare,Road, Brendon. Lynton EastOare Hill,LyiWpath), Oare. Lyn- Lynton. Lynton. Lee Abbey. Hunters’Heddon’s Inn.Mouth. P MartinhoeHunters’ Inn. (inland). CombeTrentishoe. Martin. 6 i Watermouth 21 Ilfracombe. 21 161 to BarnstapleIlfracombe, andby Mortehoe, Bideford Woolacombe(1 day).—From Sands, Ilfracombe, and Baggy by Point, road, toWoolacombe Mortehoe, Sands5, and (2 Woolacombemiles long) toTracy, Baggy 6, Point, miles 10 ; thenmiles alongfrom Ilfracombe.Braunton, 6 milesThe way ; thence is then by by high country road lanesto Barnstaple through (11 miles to ingfrom Heanton Baggy Point),Court. followingThe train up may the beestuary taken of (Ilfracombe the Taw, and to Barn-pass- distancestaple, L. by and 5 uninteresting S.-W. Line) miles.at Braunton, Also, fromshortening Barnstaple the towalking Bide- fordis that may by veryFremington well be doneand Instowby train. Quay If (9walking, miles). the prettier road days).—TheBy Clovelly, road to from Eartland, Bideford Mar to Clovelly stand Mouth, keeps onand high Bude ground (2 withinstone out a mile of Bideford, or so of thea lane sea. shouldSoon beafter taken passing to the the right, eighth leading mile- toapproached the beautiful (11 milesHobby from Drive Bideford). (3 miles long),From Clovelly,by which GallantryClovelly is 202 PEDESTRIAN NORTH-COAST TOUR. Bower(13J miles and fromMouth Bideford, Mill should5 from be Clovelly), visited, andHartland from Point,Hartland 3, andWelcombe Hartland is Quay, miles 2£, miles.from Hartland, 6 J from Clovelly; a mile andMarsland a half Mouth,beyond—turning where the streamto the dividingright out Devon of the and village—is Cornwall beenters missed. the sea.Thence It is toa charmingBude is close little upon bay, 8and miles should more by ; no15 meansin all visitorfrom Hartland, should also 16 visitfrom MorwinstowClovelly. If andhe canChurch afford (on the the time, Cornish the sideBude, of coaches the border), run to a Holsworthymile out of inhis connection road to the with right. the L.From and fiveS.-W. days’ By. walking-tourto Exeter and on Waterloo; the lines hereand alsosuggested to Launceston. includes theA wholemade—being North Coastin Somersetshire, of Devonshire Bude (Minehead—whence in Cornwall), and embracesthe start anis ingextent character. of wild and beautiful sea-coast scenery of the most interest- INDEX Anchor Stonk, 90. Bicton Church, 18. Anstey’sAnnery, 192,Cove, 193. 80, 81. Bideford,Bicton Lodge, 190, 191.17. Appledore,Anthony House, 189, 190. 133. BigburyBideford Bay,Bridge, 104,106. 167,191. AshburyAshburton, House, 101,161,162 65. Bishop'sBittadon, Tawton, 184. 62. AstonAshe House, CasUe, 3.61. BlachfordBlack Church Viaduct, Rocks, 109. 195. AvetonAtherington, Gilford, 61. 133. Blackpool,Black Down 91. Hills, 5L Awliscombe,Awns and Dendles, 10. 109. BoltBolbury Head, Down, 105, 105.103. Axminster.Axmouth, 5. 2, 3. BoltBottor, Tail, 158. 106, 103. BabbacombeBay, 80, 82. BoveyBovisand Tracey, Fort, 158.132. BaggyBadgworthy Point, Water, 186. 174. BowBow, Creek,60. 91. Bampton,Bail-down Tor,55. 150. BradleyBrad field Woods, Hall, 51. 74. BarbrickBantham, Mill, 106. 165. BramfordBradninch Speke, House, 49. 50. Barnstaple,Barnstaple Old62, 187,188.Eoad, 184. Braunton,Branscombe, 186. 6. BarricaneBarnstaple Creek, Road, 186.184, 186. Brent Station,Tor, 146, 102.147, 151. BattisburrowBeechwood House, Cross, 110. 106. BridestoweBrixham, 85, Station, 86. 150. Beetor Cross, 157. BroadBrown Clyst,Willy, 48.65. BelliverBelstone, Tor, 154. 156. BuckfastleighBuckfastleigh, Abbey,99,162. 100. BelvedereBelstone Tor, Tower, 63. 42. Buckland Abbey,Beacon, 137.155. Berry Head,Down, 84,179. 86. BucklandBuckland-on-the-Moor, Monacborum, 155, 137. 162. Berry Harbor,Pomeroy 179. Castle, 83. BudleighBude, 66, Salterton,197. 47. Bickleigh,Bickleigh Vale,58. 136. Burlcscombe,Bull’s Hole, 105. 51. 204 INDEX. Cadbury Castle, 58. Dean Burn, 101. Cargreen,Calstock, 135,134. 146. DenburyDean Court, Down, 100. 75. Castle Roek,Hill (S. 172. Molten), 61. DennabridgeDennabridge, Pound,155. 155. CawsandCatwater, Beacon, 126. 63,154, 161. Devonport,Den ridge, 60. 121, 122. Chagford,Cawsaml (Plymouth), 62, 160, 161. 129. DitchenDewerstone, Hills, The, 195 136. Charlton,Chapel ton 92.Station, 61. Dolbury,Dittisham, 58. 90. Chudleigh,Chittlehampton 42. Church, 61. Downes,Doone Glen, 57. 166, 174, 175. Chulmleigh,, 60.103. DowrishDrewsteignton, House, 161.57. Clam,Churston The, Station, 146. 85. DumpdonDulverton Hill,Station, 10. 177. Clovelly,Clifford Bridge, 167. 161. DunkeryDuncannon, Beacon, 91, 98. 165, 177. Cockington,Clovelly Court, 83. 193, 195. Dunkeswell,Dunkeswell Abbey,10. 52. Coleridge,Colebrook Church,60. 59. DunsfordDunscombe Bridge, Cliff, 8.161 CollipriestColleton Barton, House, 61. 59. East Budleioh, 18. Colyton,Colyford, 4. 5. EddystoneEast Eyn, 166, Lighthouse, 168, 169. 131 CombeCombe, Martin,73. 179. Elfordleigh,Eggesford Station, 110. 60. ComptonCombe Row Castle, Station, S3. 178. Ermington,Erme River, 107. 106, 108. CotheleCorawood, House, 108,109. 135. Exe Bridge,Estuary, 55. 18. CountisburyCountisbury, Hill,166. 170. Exeter, 21,Queen 22, St.23, Station,161. 55. CranmereCounty Gate, Pool, 166. 154. Exford,Exeter, St.176. David’s Station, 56. Crediton,Cranbrook 56. Castle, 160. Exminster,Exmoor, 43, 68. 165,175. CreedyCrediton Park, Manor, 57. 57. Exmouth, 43, 45, 69. Crowndale,Crockern Tor, 146. 140. Fardell,Fairy Cross, 109. 167. CudlippCullompton, Town, 50. 146. FingleFarway, Bridge, 11. 62, 161 Culme Bridge,Valley, 51. Foweliscombe,Ford Abbey, 4. 103. CutCutcombe Hill, 140. Barrow, 178. Fremington,Fox Tor 152. 188. Dainton Tunnel, 94. Fur Tor, 146. DartmeetDartington, Bridge, 96. 154. GaimptonGallantry Creek, Bower, 90. 195. Dartmoor,Dartmoor Quarries,64, 140. 152. Gittisham,Gidleigh Park, 10. 161. Dartmouth,Dartmoor Prison, 87, 88. 152. Goodamoor’House, 109. Dawlish,Dart River, 41, 68,69. 94. Great Hangman,Haldon, 158. 179. INDEX. 205 Great Mis Tor, 151. Kenton, 69. Griinspound,Greenway House, 156. 90. KeyhamKent’s Cavern, Lake, 127.79. Guunislake, 146. Killerton,’’’orthy, 49. 145. Halberton,Haccomee House,52. 75. Kingsbridge„ibridge, Estuary,92,103. 92. ,Farm, 41,43. 15S. Kingswear,Kingsbridge 86, Road, 87. 102. Hamoaze,Hamildon 127,Down, 133. 156. Kitley,Kingswear 133. Castle, 90. HarewoodHam Stone, House, 105. 146. Kitt's Fall, 149. HarpfordHarford Bridge, Wood, 153.14. LairaLadram Bridge, Bay, 10617. Hartland,Hartland Abbey,167. 196. LakeheadLandulph, Pound, 134. 156 Hartland Quay,Point, 196.196. Lapford,Langstone 60. Point, 69. Hatherleigh,Hartland Tor, 64. 156. Lee Bay,Abbey, 184. 172.' HayesHawksdown, Barton 5.Farm, 18. Lidford,Leigh House, 147. 61. Heddon’s Mouth, 179, 200. Lidford Cascade,Bridge, 148. 149. HelesboroughHele, 49. Hill, 184. Lifton,Littleham, 149. 47. Hembury Castle,Fort, 10. 100. Little Haldon,Hangman, 73. 179. Hemyock,Hemerdon 51.House, 110. Loddiswell,Lover’s Leap, 103. 183. Hennock,Hessary Tor, 158. 152. LucottLukesland, Hill, 153. 177. HighHey Tor Peak Rocks, Hill, 158,17. 162. Luscombe,Lustleigh, 158.70. HillHighweek Bridge, Church, 146. 74. Lympstone,Lyme Regis, 45. 6. KingstonHobby Drive, Down, 167. 146. Lyuinouth,Lyn Bridge, 168,170. etc. Hoe,Holne The, Bridge, 116. 155. Lynton, 167, etc. Holne Chace,Village, 154, 155. 155, 162. MalmsmeadManaton, 158. Farm, 175. Holsworthy, 65. Marlborough,Marley Tunnel, 104. 101. HopeHorrabridge, Cove, 106. 108, 136, 137. MarslandMarsh Mills, Mouth, 110. 197. Hunters’Howard House, Inn, 180. 60. Marystow,Martinhoe, 149.ISO. Ilfracombe, 164, 166, 181. MerripitMeavy, 108. Hill, 156. Instow, 188. MerrivaleMew atone, Bridge, 105, 126. 15L IvyInstow Bridge, Quay, 107. 189, 201. Millslade,Milber Down, 174. 75. Jacobstowe, 64. Minehead,Modbury, 107.166. Kennford, 43. ModburyMole’s Chamber, Court, 107.176. INDEX. Molt,Morchard The, Bishop, 105. 60. PortsmouthPortlemouth, Arms, 104. 61. MorehathMorchard Station,Road, 60. 55. PostPowderhain Bridge, Castle,156. 68. MorteMoreton Bay, Hampstead, 185, 186. 157. PrestonPrawle Point, Berry 104.Castle, 160. MorteMortehoe Point, Station, 185, 186.185. Princetown,Pudcombe Cove, 108, 86.152. MorwellhamMorte Stone, Quay,186. 135. Pynes House, 48, 56. Morwell Tunnel,Rock, 135. 146. Queen Anne’s Battery, 127. Morwinstow, 197. Raleigh House, 184. Mount Batten,Edgcumbe, 132. 127, 128. Raleigh’s Cross, 178. Mount Tavy, 145. Ralph’sRamillies’ Hole, Cove, 106. 106. Musbury,Mouth Mill, 3. 195. Revelstoke, 106. Netherton Hall, 11. RillageRickham, Point, 104. 184. New Bridge, 155. RockfordRoyal Albert Inn, Bridge, 174. 133. NewnhamNew House, Park, 156. 110. Newton Abbot,Ferrers, 42, 106. 74. St. Mary Tavy, Church, 146. 73, 82. Northam,Newton St. 189. Cyres, 56. St. NicholasPeter Tavy, Island, 146. 126. NorthamNorth Tawton, Burrows, 63. 189. Salcombe,Salcombe Hill,104. 7. NorthNutwell Walk. Court, 171. 45. Saltram,Salcombe 129. Regis, 7. Oare, 174, 200. Sampford Courtenay,Peverill Church, 63. 52. Offwell,Oare Hill, 10. 168. SandsSandridge, Hotel, 99. The, 92. Okehampton,Okehampton Hall,63,161. 64. SawSeaton, Mill 5. Cove, 105. Oreston,Otterton, 130.17. Sharpham,Shaldon, 73. 91, 98. OtteryOtter Valley, St. Mary, 48. 11,16. SharpShaugh Tor, Bridge, 153. 136. Paignton, 84. SbellShaugh Top, Prior 109. Church, 136. ParacombeParacombe, Gorge,165, 178. ISO. ShobrookeShilstone Farm, Park, 161.57. ParsonPebble andRidge, Clerk 189. Rocks, 71. Shute,Sidbury 4. Castle, 16. - PetitPentillie Tor, Castle, 82. 134 SilvertonSidmouth, Park, 7, 14. 49. Pidley,Pilton, 185.60. SladeSimonsbath, Down, 176.184. Plymouth,Pinhoe, 48. 111. SlaptonSlade Viaduct, Lea^91^ 109. Plymouth Sound,Breakwater, 125. 125. Slapton Village, 92. Plympton St.Earle, Mary, 110. 109. South Brent,Hams, 101.101. Porlock,Plymtree. 165. 49. South MoltouMolton, Station,61. 177. INDEX. 207 StapleStaddon Tors, Heights, 151. 132. Upottery,Umberleigh 11. Station, 61. Starcross,Start Bay, 69.91. Valley of Rooks, 172. StavertonStockley Pomeroy, Bridge, 97. 58. VixenVitterfer Tor, Mine, 151. 156. StokeStoke, Carron,73. 49. Walk, The, 145. Stoke DamerellFleming, 90.Church, 122. Walkhampton,Walkhampton Church,108. 137. Stoke Gabriel,Pero, 178. 91, 98. ■WalreddonWalla River, House, 145. 145. StokenhamStoke Point, Church, 106. 92. WarberryWarren, The, Hill, 69. 83. Stratton,Stonehouse 66. Pool, 127. Watersineet,Watermouth 171.Castle, 166, 180. SummerhouseSutton Pool, 127. Hill, 173. Wear Gifford,Gifford House,192. 193. Tamar River, 133, 134. WeirWear Head,House, 135, 44. 146. Tavistock,Tapeleigh, 190.108,141. Welcombe,Wellington, 197. 52. Tavistock Canal,Abbey, 135.142. WellingtonWest Alvington, Monument, 104. 48. TavyTavistock Cleave, Church, 146. 144. WestWestleigh, Lyn, 165,190. 168. TavyTaw River,River, 63.146. WestWeston Lyn Mouth, Road, 8.172. TawstockTeign, 62. Court, 61. WhimpleWestward Station, Ho, 167,189, 48. 191. TeignTeignmouth, River, 161.41, 71. WhyddonWhite-Pebble Park, Bay, 160. 183. ThorieyTeigu Valley, Hall, 158.109. WWiddecombe-in-the-Moor, id worthy, 9. 156. ThreeThurlestone Barrows, Rock, 153. 108. Winsford,Wildersmouth, 176. 183. Topsham,Tiverton, 53.44, 68. WWistman’s istlade, 43. Wood, 155. Torbay,Torbay Road,83. 75. WithycombeWithycoinbe RaleighRaleigh, Church, 47. 47. Tor-Mohun,Torquay, 76, SO.etc. Withypoole,Woodabay, 181,200. 176. Torre Abbey,Sta ion, 79. 75. Wolborough,Woolacombe Sands,74. 188. Tor Cross,Cross Hotel,91. 92. Worlington,Woolacombe East,Tracy, 61. 185. TorriilgeTorrington, River, 192. 141. Worlington,Wooston Castle, West, 161. 61. TorsTotnes, Walk, 94, S3.183. Wriugeliffe Bay, 170. Townstall,Tracey House, 89. 10. Yealmpton,Yealm Bridge, 132. 133. TwoTrentislioe Bridges, Barrow, 146,153. 165. Yealm Valley,River, 106.109. Uffculme, 51. YesYeoford Tor, Junction,140,154 59, 62, 161.

PnliHsiipa ~w a z. r

TIDYEI^ISEIIJEI^S Hotels Arranged Alphabetically according to Locality.

THORNTON & CO. Patektees and Manufacturers of REGISTERED WATERPROOFS. For TOURISTS, SPORTSMEN, LADIES. The Celtic” Ventilating 'Waterproof. Wear,Registered, 25s- Cool and Comfortable to ‘ The Waverley ” Fishing Stockings. ThoroughlyWatertight, 16b-Tested and Warranted “ The MariePerfect ” Ladies’in Shape, Waterproof. 25s. “ The Pocket ” Waterproof. For Tourists,from Cyclists, 10s. Sportsmen, “ ClothThe Hold-alland Canvas, ” in from Waterproof- 17s. 6d. “ Thein Check Edinburgh Waterproof, ” Knapsack, 12s- 6d. Specialties in Waterproof, Game, and Cartridge Bags, Gun Covers, Carriage and Dog-Cart Aprons. GOLD MEDAL, International Exhibition, Edinburgh, 1886, For Excellence in Manufacture of Waterproof Fishing Outfits. GOLD MEDAL, International Fisheries Exhibition, 1882, For Excellence in Manufacture of Waterproof Goods. EDINBURGH, 78 PRINCES STREET, (OPPOSITE THE MOUND). A 2 ABERDEEN.

IMPERIAL HOTEL (NEAREBT FIRST-GLASS HOTEL TO THE RAILWAY STATION) ABEKDEEN.

Princess Beatrice, Prince and Princess Christian, Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia, and other distinguished Visitors. The only one in Aberdeen expressly built from the Foundation as a First-Class Hotel, and for which purpose the entire Building is expressly occupied. THE IMPERIAL HAS LATELY BEEN ENLARGED AND REFURNISHED. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL is well known for its home comforts, and is without exception the only First-class Hotel in Aberdeen. Address—The Manager. To Anglers.—Gentlemen are Boarded at Moderate Rates dwing the Spring and Autumn Fishing Season. ABERDEEN. 3

PALACE HOTEL, Union Street and Bridge Street, ABERDEEN. One Hundred Yards from the Station and overlooking the Open and Ornamental space of Denburn Gardens. One of the largest, most recently erected, and best appointed Hotels in Scotland. Hotel Omnibusof all and through Porter Trains. attend the arrival HANDSOMELY FURNISHED DRAWING-ROOM, WITH CHIGKERING GRAND PIANO. (Under the Patronage of the Courts of Europe) CHARLES MANN, Proprietor

DEESIDE HEATHCOT,HYDROPATHIC near ABERDEEN.ESTABLISHMENT, rpHE1 entClimate have ofthe Deeside privilege Is ofthe preserved healthiest Salmon m Scotland. and Trout Residents Fishing atin thisthe RiverEstablish Dee, Them ^Titrkishns through6 and the other Estates Baths of _Heathcot are Athcot constructed and Ardoe, with a distanceall the oioflatest twotwo umcs.improvements ne Post andPOSTING Teleqraph OfficesIN ALLwithin twoITS minutes BRANCHES. walk oj the Hotel. ABERFELDT ABERGAVENNY ABERYSTWITH. 5 ABEEFELDY. BREADALBANE ARMS HOTEL, One minute’s walk from the Station. QITUATED at the entrance to the Glen and Falls of Moness, and ^ Birks of Aberfeldy, this Hotel is the best centre from which to visit the most magnificent scenery in Scotland. Coaches run daily in connection with Loch Tay Steamers. Post Horses and Carriages of all descriptions. Salmon and Trout Fishing on a beautiful stretch of the Tay, and Trout Fishing on Loch-na-Craig, both with use of Boat Free. OMNIBUS AWAITS ALL TRAINS. Orders hy Post or Telegraph punctually attended to. ALEXANDER NICOL, Lessee. ABERGAVENNY. ANGEL FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. FISHINGmiles of onprivate three excellentmiles of theSalmon river and Usk Trout Free water to Visitors. near town. Also Daytwo tickets—troutLlanthoney Abbey, 2s. 6d., Brecon, salmon Crickhowell, 10s. per day. Sugar Charming Loaf and drivesother mountains.to Kaglan, SuitesExcellent of Rooms Hotel and accommodation. Billiards. All kindsRe-furnished. of Posting. Spacious Coffee-Room. JOHN PRICHARD, Proprietor. ABERYSTWITH. QUEEFS HOTEL. THIS Hotel is situated on the Marine Terrace, facing the sea, and con- Room,tains Library, several and Private all its SittingBedrooms Rooms, are pleasantly Coffee Rooms, situated. Ladies’ Drawing Table d’Hote at 6.30 o’clock during the Season. ArrangementsTARIFF ON made APPLICATION. for Families. W. H. PALMER, Proprietor. ASHBURTON BANAVIE. ASHBURTON, DEVON. EH LION HOTEL E. JNO. SAWDYE, Proprietor. rPHIS Hotel, the principal one in the Town, is replete with every convenience for the comfort of Tourists and Travellers. It contains spacious Suites of Private Apartments, has an extensive Garden attached, and is in the immediate neighbourhood of the finest of the Dartmoor Tors, Rock, the Buckland and Holne Chase Drives, the upper reaches of the celebrated , and some of the most picturesque of the world-famed Devonshire Scenery. Post Horses and Carriages of every description. Excellent Trout and Salmon Fishing may be had in the neighbourhood on payment of a small fee. Particulars can be obtained on application to the Proprietor of the Hotel. BANAVIE, N.B. LOCHIEL ARMS HOTEL. Western Terminus of Caledonian Canal Steamers. JOHN MENZIES, Proprietor. “ BanavieEndless is the Walks great andStopping-place Drives.”—Truth, between August Oban 11,and 1887. Inverness. Ben Nevis.—Only Hotel whose windows possess a full view of the Mountain. "One of theFISHING best Salmon RiversON inRIVER Scotland.”—Sportsman’s LOCHY. Guide. BOARDING.Over 100 BedsBILLIARDS. can be made up.TENNIS. TELEGRAMS-" MENZIES, BANAVIE.” CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. POSTING. N.B.—Passengers from South leave Steamer at Corpach only. BALLATER BATH BEAULY. 7 BALLATEE. INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT In connection with the Invercanld Anns Hotel, Braemar. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. COACH TO BRAEMAR DAILY ON AND AFTER 1st MAY. (By Special Appointment Posting Master to the Queen.) M‘GREGOR. BATH. CASTLE HOTEL. The Oldest Established and most Central for Families, Private and Commercial Gentlemen. NIGHT PORTER. JOHN RUBIE, Proprietor. AND IMPERIALWESTON-SUPER-MARE. HOTEL, YORK HOUSE, BATH. THIS firshclass Hotel for Families and Gentlemen is most centrally situated, close to the Post-Office, the Parks, Assembly Rooms, Mineral Water Baths, etc. Table d’hote at separate tables. Public Rooms; also Suites for Families. Tariff moderate. L. ASHCROFT, Proprietor. Also at St. Vincent’s Rocks Hotel, Clifton. BEAULY. LOVAT ARMS HOTEL. rpHE Proprietor has muchTen pleasureMiles Northin informing of Inverness. Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, midst-L and of thethe Publicloveliest that scenery this elegant in the andNorth commodious of Scotland, Establishment and within ais few situated miles ofin the wildfamous and FaUs unrivalled of Kilmorich, Glen Affrick, the Driem, Glen and Strathfarar, the mountainous and Glen scenery Cannich, of Strathglass,Guisachan, andthe otherNature beautiful from all localitiesCountries. frequented by Tourists, Sportsmen, Artists, and Lovers of Afifrick,Parties Glen staying Strathfarar, at the and Hotel back can in onearrange day. an ExcursionW. H.to STATHAM,the unrivalled Leasee. Glen 8 BLAIK-ATHOLE.

BLAIR-ATHOLE. ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL. Adjoining the Railway Station. NOW one of the largest and best appointed Hotels in the Highlands. The Situation is unequalled as a centre from which to visit the finest Scenery of the Perthshire Highlands, comprising Killiecrankie ; Lochs Tummel and Kannoch ; Glen Tilt ; Braemar ; the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; Dunkeld ; Taymouth Castle and Loch Tay ; the Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. This is also the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. Table d’H6te daily during the season in the well-known magni- ficent Dining Hall, with which is connected en suite a spacious and elegantly furnished Drawing Room. Special terms forTariff Board onby theApplication. week, except during August. ExperiencedThe Posting Guides Department and Ponies is thoroughly for Glen well Tilt, equipped. Braemar, and Mountain Excursions. Telegraphic Address—Hotel,D. MACDONALD Blairathole. & SONS, Proprietors. BELFAST BERWICK BETTWS-T-COED—BLAIRGOWRIE. B E LEAS T. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. BEST SITUATION. Omnibuses meet ail Trains and Steamers. W. J. JURY, Proprietor. BERWICK-ON-TWEED. KING’S ARMS FAMILY & COMMERCIAL HOTEL. The Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains from 8 a.m. till 9 p.m. Posting in all its Branches. WITHINvisit Holyeasy distanceIsland, Tweeddale,of and the naturalWark, Twizel,headquarters Coldstream, from whence Norham to byCastle, Sir WalterFlodden Scott. Field, St. Abb’s Head, and JOHNthe district CARR, rendered Proprietor. classic BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES. WATERLOO HOTEL. Close to the Waterloofrom the Bridge, Railway and Station. a few minutes’ walk Posting.Lawn Excellent Tennis. StablingBilliards. and -up Fishing.Coach-Houses. 'THEJ- and Proprietor Beddgelert. runs Seatsthe Daily can Returnbe secured Coaches at thebetween Waterloo Bettws-y-Coed, and Gwydyr Llanberis, Hotels, Hotel,Bettws-y-Coed, Beddgelert. the PadamA well-appointed Villa and Dolbadam Omnibus Hotels, attends Llanberis, all Trains. and the Royal Goat Tariff of Charges onL. ApplicationB. McCULLOCH, to Proprietor. BLAIRGOWRIE, iTHEand above Improved, long-established so that Families, and first-class Tourists, Hotel and Commercial has recently Gentlemen been much will enlarged find in itBraemar every comfort and Balmoral, and attention. the drive Blairgowrie to which isIs onvery the grand, shortest passing and most CraighaU direct (Generalroute to Clerk-Rattray),Horses and Carriages one of of the every most description, picturesquely-situated with careful Drivers. mansions in Scotland. Post Coaches to BraemarCharges early in July.strictly Passengers Moderate. booked at the Hotel. OrdersAn byOmnibus Post or waits Telegram aU Trains. for Rooms, Carriages, or CoachD. M‘DONALD, seats, carefully Proprietor. attended to. 12 BRAEMAR BRAY.

THE INVERCAULD ARMS, The finest Hotel situation in Scotland. Recently re-erected after Plans by J. T. Wimpebis, Esq., Sackville St., London. MAGNIFICENT DINING HALL, ELEGANT LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM, ANDPOSTING NUMEROUS IN ALL SUITES ITS BRANCHES. OF APARTMENTS. BYCoaches SPECIAL during APPOINTMENT the Season to Blairgowrie,POSTING-MASTER Dunkeld, TO and THE Ballater. QUEEN. ExcellentLetters Salmon and Telegrams Fishing in Punctually connection withattended the Hotel. to. A. M'GREGOR. (IRELAND) INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, BRAY, County Wicklow. mHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is situated near the Railway Station, Sea- County-L beach, of Wicklow. and Esplanade, central to all the far-famed Scenery of the repleteVisitors with to every this comfort,fashionable and place the willCuisine find and The Wines International of the best quality. Hotel All Charges are fixed and moderate. Boarding Terms per week may be had on application to the Manager. C. DUFRESNE, Proprietor. BRECHIN BRIDGE OF ALLAN. 13 BRECHIN, FORFARSHIRE. COMMERCIAL HOTEL. Oldest Established First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel. LARGE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. ’BUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ALEXANDER PIRIE. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. CARMICHAEL’S HOTEL. TEMPERANCE. Within easy access of Callander, the Trossachs, and Loch Lomond. Terms, including all charges, 45s. per week. Posting in all its Branches. Hotel ’Bus attends all trains. BRIDGE OF ALLAN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, NEAR STIRLING. ■J^EAUTIFULLY situated and sheltered by the Ochils, on a dry and porous soil. The House is replete with every comfort and convenience. Elegant Suite of Baths, including Turkish, Russian, Vapour, Spray, &c., all on the most approved principles. Terms, £2 :12 : 6 per week. Applications to be addressed to Mr. M'KAY, House Superintendent. 14 BRIDGE OP ALLAN . BRIDGE OF ALLAN. PHILP’S ROYAL HOTEL. RENOVATED and refurnished. Excellent accommodation and beautifully laid out grounds. Charges moderate. Most convenient to break the journey for the Trossachs, Oban, and other parts of the Highlands. An extensive Posting Establishment. Hotel ’Bus attends all Trains, R. PHILP, Proprietor. BUXTON. ST. ANN’S HOTEL. First-class, for Families and Gentlemen. A COLONNADE TO THE BATHS, WELLS, & GARDENS. HARRISON & LE GROS, Proprietors. Also of the GREAT LIVERY STABLES. Telephonic Communication between the Hotel and Stables. THE BUXTON HYDROPATHIC AND WINTER RESIDENCE (MALVERN HOUSE) DERBYSHIRE. Overlooking the Pavilion and Public Gardens. Central and sheltered situation, close to the celebrated Mineral Baths. The Establishment is heated throughout by Hot Water, and in every way made comfortable for Invalids and Visitors. Postal and Telegraphic Address—“Hydro, Buxton.” TABLE D’HOTE AT 6 O’CLOCK. FOB TERMS, ETC., APPLY TO THE PROPRIETOR. BUXTON CALLANDER—CARDIFF CHEPSTOW. 15 BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. GROSVENO R PRIVATE HOTEL, BROAD WALK. THISBates) High-Class stands in House the most (carried charming, on many convenient, years by and the central late Mr. situation Brian into the Town,Mineral adjoining Wells and and Baths. overlooking the celebrated Gardens, and close ReducedComfortable Terms from SmokingOctober 1st toRoom. April 30th. CALLANDER. CALEDONIAN TEMPERANCE HOTEL IS now the most comfortable Hotel in Callander. Tea, Bed, and Breakfast from 5s. to 6s. Attendance 9d. Board per Week, £2 :12 : 6. Hot and Cold Baths. TICKETS FOR THE TROSSACHS. Coaches to be had at this Hotel. W. A BIGGS, Proprietor. CARDIFF. THE ROYAL HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS, FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. OMNIBUS MEETS TRAINS. E. D. WILLIAMS, Proprietor. CHEPSTOW. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL. A Nof Old-Established the Railway Station, First-class Castle, Family and River Hotel, Wye. within two minutes’ walk Ladies’ Coffee Room 60 feet by 30. Billiard Room. Omnibuses and Carriages meet all trains. The BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, Tintern Abbey, conducted by the same Proprietress. Night Porter. E. GARRETT. 16 CHESTER CLIFTON. CHESTER. THE GROSVENOR HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS.other objects ofSituated interest. in the centre of the City, close to the Cathedral and LadiesLarge and Coffee Families. and Reading Rooms ; also Ladies’ Drawing Room for the conyenience of OmnibusesOpen and close attend Carriages, the Trains and for Posting the use in ofall Visitors its Branches. to the HoteL Tariff to he had on application. A Night Porter in attendance. DAVID FOSTER, Manager. CLIFTON. CLIFTON-DOWN HOTEL, rPHE popularity of this HotelFacing has the compelled Suspension the Proprietors Bridge. to extend the accommo- Apartmentsdation byfor theWedding addition Breakfasts, of several Ball Bedrooms, Suppers, Ladies’

THE GRESHAM HOTEL, UPPER SACKYILLE STREET. ISO Bedrooms, Suites of Apartments far Families, Ladies’ Coffee-Room and Drawing-Room. Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Tariff fixed and moderate. PROPRIETORS-THE GRESHAM HOTEL CO., LIMITED. DUBLIN DUNBLANE. 21 DUBLIN. PRINCE OP WALES HOTEL, LOWER SACKVILLE STREET. (Next the General Post Office.) Central. Convenient. Moderate Charges. JURY BROTHERS, Proprietors. DUBLIN. FRANKLIN’S HOTEL, 11 COLLEGE GREEN. MOST CENTRAL. Very Moderate Charges. Extreme Cleanliness and Comfort. RESTAURANT ADJOINING. Dinners from 1 o’clock to 7 o’clock p.m. NIGHT PORTER. E. FRANKLIN, Proprietor. DUBLIN. EDINBURGH TEMPERANCE HOTEL (LATE BILTON HOTEL), 56 UPPER SACKVILLE STREET- DUBLIN. R. G. MACKAY, Proprietor. DUNBLANE. STIRLING ARMS HOTEL. gEAUTIFULLY SITUATED on the River Allan, near to the Cathedral. One minute’s walk from Station. Charges Strictly Moderate. MRS. MARSHALL, Proprietress. 22 DUNKELD DUNDEE DUNOON FISHER’S ROYAL HOTEL. Under the Patronage of the Royal Family. -■VTR.LT-L Establishment FISHER begs areto statenow completedand,that the additions having and alterations been redecorated to this andlarge refurnished first-class andin an Elegant elegant Dining style, Saloon,it will he with found Ladies’ equal Drawing-Room to any in the North(jm mite). of Scotland. Private SuitesA Large of Apartments,The only Coachand Spacious for Braemab Billiard andand Balmoral,Smoking Saloon. via Blairgowrie, starts from the CoachHotel, Seats,where or seats Carriages for the punctually above can attended only be to. secured. Omnibuses Telegrams from thefor HotelApartments, attend DUNKELD. THE DUKE OF ATHOLE’S ARMS HOTEL •"THIS Hotel, fromD. itsROBERTSON, situation close toProprietor the beautiful (late BridgeGrant’s). of Duhkeld (and also nificentclose scenery to the on gates either of theside Cathedral),of the river commands Tay. The an Apartments, unrivalled view both of Public the mag- and ofPrivate, her Life are in elegantly the Highlands, furnished has and been well graciously aired. Her pleased Majesty to take the noticeQueen, of in this her HotelJournal as ofbeing the very French, clean, with and herhaving Son suchthe Princea charming Imperial, view fromalso thevisited windows. this Hotel, The Empressand was ispleased paid toto expressthe Comfort her entire of Visitors.approval ofJob all andthe Postarrangements. Horses, with CarefulEvery Drivers. Attention An thisOmnibus Hotel awaits for thethe arrivalBraemar and Coach. departure of all the Trains. Seats can be seoured at DUNDEE. Q U E E N’S HOTEL, 160 NETHERGATE. j^/JAGNIFICENT Views of the River and Tay Bridge. Hand- some Billiard, Smoking, and Stock Rooms. A ’Bus from the Hotel awaits the arrival of all Trains. Stabling. DUNOON. fPHE mostARGYLL Commodious and Comfortable Hotel,HOTEL. close to the Pier, cofnmanding a opportunitymagnificent of visiting view of all the the Firth following of Clyde. places Visitors of interest staying and at returning this Hotel to will Hotel have same the day,etc., viz.per Ayr,‘Lord Arran, of the Kyles Isles’; of LochBute, Lomond,per Steamer Loch ‘ ColumbaKatrine, ’;Trossachs, Inveraray, Gairloeh, Loch Fyne, etc. InverarayCoaches leave and Oban.the Hotel Dunoon daily isfor certainly Loch Eck, the bestwhich centre is the from favourite which tonew make route excur- for dailysions, atand 6.30 Tourists p.m. wouldSpecial be reduced wise in selectingrates for itParties as their staying headquarters. a week or longer.Tjable d’hoteThis comfortHotel is ofnow Visitors. under NewSplendid Management, Sea Fishing. and Bootsparticular waits attention arrival of will all Steamers.be paid to the EDENSOR EDINBURGH. 23 CHATSWORTH HOTEL, EDENSOR, DERBYSHIRE. rofIS theHotel princely is beautifully residence situated of the Dukein Chatsworth of Devonshire. Park, and within ten minutes’ walk Station,The Hotelon the is Midland the largest Railway, in the affords neighbourhood, every facility and to its Tourists promnity desirous to the of Rowsley visiting the Omnibusesbeauties of from Haddon the Hall,Hotel Matlock,meet all thethe principalMines at Castloton,trains at Rowsley Dove Dale, Station. etc. Post-horses,A spacious Coffee-Room etc. for Ladies. Private Sittingjmd well-appointed Bedrooms.' IN CONNECTIONHENRY WITH HARRISON, ST. ANN’S Proprietor HOTEL, BUXTON. ; Railway Station,Day Rowsley.Tickets for thePostal Chatsworth address & Fishery—TroutTelegram Office, Edensor, and Grayling near Bakeweli..

Adjoining the Station and overwoKmg NO INTOXICATING LIQUORS. JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor 24 CRANSTON'S

WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTELS. Uniform Charges at all the Waverleys, viz.— PublicBreakfast Dinner or Tea Is. 3d., Is. 6d.,2 2s.s. PrivateBedroom Parlours I3s. 6d.s. ServiceStock Booms, from 2s. 8d. per day, according toI Size.s. THE OLD WAVERLEY, 42, 43, 44, 45, & 46 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. ■pOBEHT CRANSTON begs to return his sincere thanks to his Patrons and theXv above the PublicHotel hasfor beentheir entirelyfavours duringrebuilt, the and last is nowforty inferior years, toand none has into theintimate City. thatThe increased,whole of theincluding internal a arrangementsmost spacious have Dining-room been remodelled, and a Ladies’ the accommodation Drawing-room, andgreatly the comfortentire building and convenience fitted up in of the his latest Patrons. and mostIs the approved largest manner,Temperance with aHotel view into the chargesKingdom. will Notwithstandingremain as formerly. the great expense attending the reconstruction, the THE NEW WAVERLEY, Has been enlarged andWATERLOO improved, and PLACE,to meet the EDINBURGH, great demand a number of commodi- Commercialous well-lighted Gentlemen. Stock BoomsIt has alsowere a addedLarge Hall,last year,seated affording for upwards special of 700 facilities persons. to THE LONDON WAVERLEY, KING STREET, CHEAPSIDE (Established upwards of 33 years), TrumpHas recently Street, been which more has than afforded doubled greatly in size increased by the addition accommodation; of an entire and division from itsof tounrivalled persons visitingposition London,in the commercial either on business centre of or the on city, pleasure. it offers Theexceptional Guildhall, advantages Corpora- tionOmnibuses Offices, pass and the the door various every Law minute Courts for everyare in district King Street, and Railway adjoining Station the inHotel, London. and THE GLASGOW WAVERLEY, Streetwas removed was acquiredto 172 Sauchiehall by the Glasgow Street, Underground in 1884, whenRailway. the buildingNeither in Mr. Buchanan CRAN- BuchananSTON nor Street,any member in which of hishis FamilyBusiness have was formerlyany connection conducted. with Thethe namehouse, and185 hisBusiness Daughter, of Mr. M. CRANSTON'S R. CRANSTON, WAVERLEY and is nowHOTEL carried in Glasgowon under was her transferredown personal to faresmanagement in the atcity, 172 and Sauchiehall in close proximity Street, toone the of theRailway finest Stations and most and central Steamboat of thorongh- Piers. TheWaverleys. Business is carried on upon the same principles and at the same rates as the other questedCAUTION.—Parties to see that they goingare taken to theto CRANSTON’S. GLASGOW WAVERLEY are particularly re- EDINBURGH.

ROYAL HOTEL DONALD MACGREGOR, Proprietor, 53 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 2%e Royal Hotel is within a hundred yards of Railway Terminus, and LA S occupies the finest position in the City. P 8™ . ^INTERESTh gh Asse blSEENHal1 FROM HOTEL :-Arthur’s Seat, over al/ w l T5nnces • “treey - Calton Hill. Edinburgh Castle Assemblv ifra if P S t Gardens. Free Church College and SalTsScSr^,,*7 n^ 8?; ^yalRo Gilesal ScottishObservatory s Cathedral. SirParliament Walter Scott'sHouse. MonumentThe Roval AnHrmif ' ^U e Um y FT, m t0W rAcademy of Hotel andare seenNational the Gallery. The iourfourHassCw^ or nvefive of theLomT neighbouring?'n ,d ’ Corstorphine,n counties.f and Pentland HiUs, Firth and ofa ^partForth! of Charges Moderate. Rooms from 2s. 6d. Passenger Elevator. Night Porters. see that they core taken there,intendin as mistakes9 * Put have UP occurredthe Royal causing must greathe cwreful disap. to 26 EDINBURGH. REND CVA °JV h \ FACING THE CASTLE AND PRINCES STREET GARDENS. ^ This Hotel is noted for 5 minutes’ its home walk from comforts and either moderate Station. charges. EDINBURGH, 104, 106 PRINCES STREET. EDINBURGH. DARLING’S REGENT HOTEL, 20 WATERLOO PLACE. (PRINCES STREET.) opposite the Post Office, and few minutes’ from General Terminus. This is admitted to be one of the best Temper- ance Hotels in Scotland. Special Terms for Board during the Winter Months. BmUBUROB. 27 EDINBURGH. WINDSOR HOTEL, 100 PRINCES STREET. (Opposite the Castle.) A. M. THIEM, PROPRIETOR. THISrefurnished old-established in the mostHotel, elegant one ofmanner, the finest offers in superior Edinburgh, accommodation entirely rebuilt and com-and andfort. sparesThe Proprietorno pains to is render especially their cognisant sojourn with of the him needs agreeable. of the Nobility and Gentry, BEDFORD HOTEL, 83 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. Under the personalUnsurpassed superintendence for comfort, of economy, Mme. Dejay and (latequietness. of Dejay’s Hotel). Most moderate Terms. Cuisine d la fran^aise. Coffee Room and Ladies’ Drawing Room. a goodThis viewHotel of is the situated Castle. in theOn parlebest part frantpis. of Princes Street, and commands ROXBURGHE HOTEL, CHARLOTTE SQUARE, EDINBURGH. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. In Connection with the above is CHRISTIE’S PRIVATE HOTEL. Apartments en suite, and Board on Moderate Terms. J. CHRISTIE, Proprietor. THE LONDON HOTEL, ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH. T^AMILIES and Gentlemen will find the Hotel most Central, quiet and great-I- comfortable.attraction. The spacious Square in front (open to Visitors) is a Wines and Cuisine Excellent. CHARGES MODERATE. COOK’S AND OTHER COUPONS ACCEPTED. J. J. MEPHIUS, Proprietor. EDINBURGH. EDINBURGH. CALEDONIAN HOTEL, 115, 116, & 117 PRINCES STREET, and 1, 3, & 5 CASTLE STREET. Established 60 Tears. (Exactly opposite the Castle.) R B. Moore. Late J. Burnett. THE ALBERT HOTEL, 23 and 25 HANOVER STREET, EDINBURGH. rPHIS Central Hotel affords first-class accommodation to Tourists and others visiting the City. Every home comfort. BILLIARD AND SMOKE ROOMS. Terms Strictly Moderate. Tariff on Application. D. ROBERTSON, Proprietor. THE PALACE HOTEL. LTjUNEST Public Site Gardens. in Edinburgh. First-class ImmediatelyHouse. opposite the Castle, overlooking the SAME PROPRIETORSHIP THE EDINBURGH HOTEL. The nearest and most convenient to the Railway, and the most central for Visitors justseeing been the made. attractions An American of the City. Elevator, Large onadditions the newest and structuraland most approvedimprovements principle, have strictlyby Otis moderate. Brothers of New York, has been introduced. First-classJOHN FERGUSON.House. Charges THE DOUGLAS HOTEL, 27 PRINCES STREET. [Opposite the Waverley Station.) FIRST-CLASSModem Appliances Hotel forfor Familiesthe Comfort and ofGentlemen. Visitors. PassengerFurnished Elevator. with all Moderate Tariff. Cuisine Recherchee. G. RIETZ, Proprietor. EDINBURGH. THE RUTLAND HOTEL. West end of PrincesRailway Street, Station.adjoining the Caledonian rpHIS well known First-Class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen is Splendidreplete views with from every every comfort, window while of the the Hotel. charges are strictly moderate. EXCELLENT CUISINE. PERSONAL SUPERINTENDENCE. JAMES M‘GREGOR, Proprietor. THE CAFE, 129 PRINCES(Adjoining STREET, University Club).)EDINBURGH FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANTGENTLEMEN. FOR LADIES AND Breakfasts, Luncheons, and Dinners. Tea, Coffee, Fancy Pastry, and Cakes. MAGNIFICENT SALOONS, FREE FROM ALL COOKING SMELLS. EDINBURGH CAFE COMPANY, 70 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. High-Class Restaurant for Ladies and Gentlemen. BREAKFASTS,FANCY LUNCHEONS, PASTRY, DINNERS, CAKES, Ac. TEA, COFFEE, ELEGANT SALOON FOR LADIES.—CLOAK-ROOMS, &c. WEDDINGCOLD BREAKFASTS, COLLATIONS BALL CONTRACTED SUPPERS, DINNERS, FOR. AND FERGUSON’S EDINBURGH ROCK. The Best Present from Edinburgh. MANUFACTURED ONLY AND DAILY BY ALEX. FERGUSON, CONFECTIONER TO THE QUEEN & H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH 1 MELBOURNE(Near PLACE, the Castle.) EDINBURGH. 30 EDINBURGH ELGIN. ROBERT MDOWELL & SONS’ UNRIVALLED Biscuits, Shortbread, and Cakes. Entire Wheaten. Chester. Cracknel. Small Abemethy. Albert. Milk. Small Captains. Plain Wine. &c., &c. SCOTCH CAKES Sultana. Seed. Madeira. Plum. Alexandra. Rose. Cocoanut. Orange. Tivoli. Rice. Carraway. Tennis. Genoa. Lemon. Chocolate. Duchess. SCOTCH BUN (Christmas). SCOTCH SHORTBREAD AND PITCAITHLY BANNOCKS. SCOTCH OATCAKES. 60 George Street, i9 Frederick Street, & 1 Wemyss Place, Edinburgh. ELGIN. STATION HOTEL. rjlHIS first-class Family and Commercial Hotel occupies one of the best sites in the town, close to the Railway Stations, about five minutes’ walk from the Cathedral, and within easy drive of the beautiful and romantic Pluscarden Abbey and other places of interest in the neighbourhood. The Bedroom accommodation is first-class. Large Coffee Room, Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms, &c. &c. Also Billiard, Smoking, and Hot and Cold Bath Rooms. Hiring. Table d’Hote daily. WILLIAM CHRISTIE, Lessee. Also of the Station Hotel, Lossiemouth. EXETfilt FORRES. 31 EXETEE. ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL, FACING GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY. Quiet and Comfort of Country Mansion. Moderate Tariff. J. HEADON STANBURY, Proprietor. Also of the HALF MOON HOTEL, FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. Most Centrally Situated. Replete vnth Every Comfort. Moderate Charges. Ladies’ Coffee Room. Eight Spacious Stock Rooms. Night Porter. Omnibuses and Cabs meet all Trains. EXETER. PO RLE’S NEW LONDON HOTEL, FOB FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. fTHISadjoining Hotel Northemhaycontains all Park,the appointments within three foundminutes’ in walkFirst-class of the Establishments,Cathedral, and homeopposite with the fixed New moderate General charges.Post Office. A Ladies’Visitors Coffee will Room. find the Night comfort Porter. and attentionOmnibuses of Hotel,and Cabs Newton to every Abbot. Train. Posting in all its branches. Also Proprietor of the Globe FORRES, MORAYSHIRE, N.B. CLUNY HILL HYDROPATHIC. On Highland Railway, 24 miles south of Inverness. STANDSThese areon clothedone of thewith beautiful pine woods eminences and intersected known as bythe aboutCluny 5 Hills.miles ■ Tennisof Walks. and otherAir DryAmusements. and Bracing. Possesses Finest every River home scenery comfort. in Scotland. Charges in Summer 8s. 6d. per day, or £2 :12 :6 per week. N.B.—Six miles of Salmon, Orilse, and Trout Fishing. 32 forres—fort-william (see also p. 34). FORRES, CAMPBELL’S STATION HOTEL Adjoining the Railway Platform, Forres, N.B. STANDING(Patronised WITHIN by ITS the RoyalOWN FamilyGROUNDS and Leading AND BEAUTIFUL Members of the GARDEN. APARTMENTS ENNobility SUITE. and AristocracySPACIOUS of Europe.)BILLIARD & SMOKING ROOM. Boots inSalmon attendance Fishing at all on Trains. Findhorn JAS.River—within CAMPBELL, ten minutes' Lessee

THE PARADE, FO RT-W LLI AM. GARELOCH. 33 SHANDON HYDROPATHIC. On the Shoresof Glasgow of the for Oareloeh, Daily Travel.near Hdensburgh. First Class, Within 1/10 ; ConvenientReturn, 3/. Distance The Best CentreScenery for Excursions of the Clyde to Lochand WestLomond Coast. and the Beautiful

THE SHANDON HYDROPATHIC. UNEQUALLED IN SCOTLAND. REPLETE WITH EVERY COMFORT. andInvigorating LocL In theMountain Beautiful Air—Sea Grounds Breezes—Splendid which surround Viewsthe House of Mountain there is 23eveiy Feet. Variety Turkish, of Scenery. Russian, Magnificent and other Baths.Sea-water Excellent Swimming Billiard Bath, Room. 43 x DailyTERMS: Excursions. 1016 per Day, or 63/ per Week; Two in one Room, 9/6 per Day, or 55/ per week. Prospectuses(Inclusive may of be Free obtained Use of Baths,from Messrs.Library, David Bowling, Bryce and Tennis& Son, Courts). Booksellers, 129 ad(lressBuchanan Street, Glasgow; Mr. George Clark, MANAGER,38 George Street, SHANDON, Edinburgh; N.B. or 34 fort-william (see also p. 32)—giant’s causeway. FORT-WILLIAM. WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL, DIRECTLY ABOVE STEAMBOAT PIER. Excellent Accommodation. I A n l r r. Breakfast, from Is.Bedrooms, 6d. Dinner, from from2s. Is.Attendance 6d. to 2s. 6d. 6d. Tea, from Is. GUIDES AND PONIES FOR BEN NEVIS-J. M'GILYRAY. GIANT’S CAUSEWAY.

CAUSEWAY HOTEL AND ELECTRIC TRAMWAY. THISElectkic beautifully Tramway. situated HotelIt is the is workedmost central in connection spot for Tourists with the visiting Giant’s the Causeway district, andbeing Carrick-a-Rede close to the inGiant’s the immediate Causeway, neighbourhood. and with Dunluce Castle, Dunseverick Castle, withinThe theHotel last stands four years in its toown meet grounds the growing of 40 Acres, popularity and has of thebeen Establishment, three times enlarged which willTennis be Courtfound andmost Kiosk. comfortable, The Hotel and theis lighted charges throughout moderate. withThere the is Electric an Asphaltt Light. Lawn Guides,Electric Boats,Tram Carsand Postingleave Portrush are attached Station to onthe the Hotel arrival with of fixed all trains, scale ofwith charges. through bookingmills to tothe the Causeway Causeway is HoteLnow open The and extension Tourists of arethe landedElectric in Tramway the Hotel from grounds Bush- Electricwithout Tramany troubleCars on or the change Tramway of Cars.during There the summerwill be months, an increased and the service Antrim of coastStation service at Walkmills will be can entirely be obtained remodelled. at the Hotel.Orders to view the Electric Generating PostalNote.—Always and Telegraph ask Address—The for through Railway MANAGER, Tickets Causeway to the Giant’s Hotel, Causeway. Bushmills. GATEHOUSE OF FLEET—GLASGOW. 35 GATEHOUSE OF FLEET, N.B. MURRAY ARMS HOTEL HAS comfortable accommodation for Families and Tourists at very moderate terms. South Theof Scotland, Drives, Walks,embracing and asScenery they do in thethe scene neighbourhood of Scott's “ areGuy unsurpassed Mannering.” in the on theVisitors Loch have for their fishing sole in use. Loch Whinyeon and the River Fleet free, a boat being kept POSTING. LETTERS, ETC., PROMPTLY ANSWERED. GEORGE McMICHAEL, Proprietor. GLASGOW. PHILFS COCKBURN HOTEL, rpHIS large new Hotel141 is especiallyBATH STREET. everyA planned Modem andImprovement constructed to meetwith theHotel. requirements Situation unsurpassed.of a First-Class In anand elevatedconvenient and part quiet of the but City; central with- Stationsin easy access and ofSteam-Ship the different Landings. Railway toStreet all parts Cars ofpass the withinCity. a few yards TurkishPassenger Baths and Elevator. Billiard Rooms. The home of American* in Glasgow. MODERATE CHARGES. During Exhibition PHILP’S HOTEL Annex. 218 Bath Street. Telephone No. 50. Handsome public rooms; large airyHigh-Class bedrooms, newly Temperance furnished throughout. House. CRANSTON’S WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL, GLASGOW, Is now removed to 172 SAUCHIEHALL STREET (For particulars see Advertisement, p. 24). Old”new address) . 17243 SAUCHIEHALLPRINCES STREET. STREET. New” . 3716 WATERLOOKING STREET, PLACE. Cheapside. CAUTION I No connection with any other Waverley Hotel in Glasgow. 36 GLENBURN (ROTHESAY).

ROTHESAY. Recently Purchased from the Representatives of the late Dr. PATERSON by Mr. A. PHILP, of the COCKBURN HOTELS, EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW. ROTHESAY, with its lovely Bay, is already famous as a Winter and lent inSpring this Residencecountry. forMr. those Philp, who being suffer solefrom proprietor, the east winds, and unfettered so preva- byCompanies, colleagues, will as bein alwaysmost similaranxious establishments to adopt any managed improvement by Limited calcu- latedGlenburn. to secure the greater Comfort and Enjoyment of the Visitors to Resident Physician—Dt. PHILP, formerly of the Conishead Priory. Prospectuses may be had on application to “The Manager,” or at PHILP’S COCKBURN HOTEL, 141 Bath Street, Glasgow. Also at the well-known COCKBURN HOTEL, EDINBURGH. Only One how and, a half from Glasgow. BATHS FREE. 37

GLASGOW. HiS LORDSHIP’S LARDER AND HOTEL, 10 ST. ENOCH SQUARE, GLASGOW. {Opposite St. Enoch Station Boohing Office.) mo ensure economy consistent with comfort, Visitors cannot do better BedroomJ- than included, live at this from most 7s. tocentral 8s. per House. day. Breakfast, Dinner, Tea, and T. WHITE, Proprietor. GLASGOW. STEEL’S HOTEL, 5 QUEEN STREET, GLASGOW. FAMILY & COMMERCIAL. {Corner qf Argyle Street) The Most toCentral Exhibition, in Town. and allTram Parts Cars of startthe City. from the Door CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. LaJteWM. of CafiANDERSON, Royal Hotel, Proprietor. Edinburgh. 38 GLASGOW. GLASGOW. CITY COMMERCIAL RESTAURANT, 54 AND 60 UNION STREET, GLASGOW. rpnEand most Teas extensive served andwith comfortable comfort, economy, Dining Room and despatch.in Scotland. Bill Breakfasts, of Fare— Dinners, Extra Moderate. LADIES' PRIVATE DINING ROOM AND LAVATORY. GENTLEMEN'SNo Gratuities toLAVATORIES. Waiters. MATTHEW WADDELL, Proprietor. GLASGOW. MACLEAN’S HOTEL, ST. VINCENT STREET. FIRST CLASS. 120 APARTMENTS. MODERATE CHARGES. Close to Railway Stations and Exhibition. JOHN FORRESTER (of 7 Gordon Street), Lessee. SMITH SONS, AND IMJGHtAND, SILK MERCERS, FAMILY DRAPERS, COMPLETE OUTFITTERS, GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN, Carpet Merchants and Household Furnishers, 78 to 82 UNION STREET, GLASGOW, Have always a Large, Choice, fully Assorted Stock; and Novelties are added to each Department as they appear. GLASGOW. 39 TOURISTS AND STRANGERS VISITING GLASGOW WILL FIND A LARGE AND WELL-SELECTED VARIETY OF VIEWS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY, GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, &e. &c. AT REID’S TOURIST EMPORIUM, 144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. O" Fourth Shop West of Buchanan Street. Speciality.—White-Wood Goods with views of Scottish Scenery—very suitable as Souvenirs of Scotland—from 6d. and upwards. GLASGOW. “SCORER” FIELD GLASS, AsValue represented ! ! ! Price by inengraving, Sling Case is Unrivalled35s. ; or with for mate,Best Dull41s. LeatherSecond Case, suitable to None. for any Cli- BROWN’S Optical Wonder Field or21s., Opera 25s. Glasses, 10s. 6d., 14s. Magic Lanterns from Is. 6d. to £26. The Lecturer’s Magicmade, Lantern 84s. is the best value OithoscopicGlass or Lenses, Correct in Vision Steel Frames,Spectacles, 4s. 6d.with finest Ditto, with finest Pebble Lenses, 7s. 6d. BROWN, Oculist Optician, 76 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow. 40 GLASGOW GLENELG—GLENORCHV. GLASGOW. ALEXANDRA HOTEL 148 BATH STREET, Entirely under New Management. J. FRITZ RUPPRECHT. GLENELG. GLENELG HOTEL, STROME FERRY.

GLENORCHY. INVERORAN HOTEL, ARGYLLSHIRE. mEN miles from the Railway Station Tyndrum. Duncan A. -L Forbes begs respectfully to intimate that he has taken a lease of the above Hotel, which has been newly and otherwise greatly added to and improved. Tourists and gentlemen staying at the Hotel are allowed the privilege of Fishing (free of charge) in the beautiful River Orchy, one of the best Salmon Rivers in the West of Scotland. Splendid Trout Fishing on different Waters, Loch and part of the River Raw. Passengers are booked at this Hotel in connection with the Coaches to and from Glencoe and Tyndrum. First-Glass Post Horses and Carriages Boats on Loch Tulla. Gloucester—qolspie—greenock. 41 GLOUCESTER. THE BELL HOTEL, SITUATELeading in Hotel the forcentre Families of the and City, Gentlemen. near the Cathedral, and is the EXCELLENT STABLING. POST HORSES AND CARRIAGES. Full Funeral Equipments. Omnibuses to and from every Train. Night Porter. Miss CORNER, Manageress. GLOUCESTER. THISSPREAD Old-Established First-Class EAGLE Family Hotel will be foundHOTEL. by Visitors replete with Bicycleevery Touring comfort. Club. Well-ventilatedHandsome Coffee Bed Room. and Sitting Hot andRooms Cold en Baths. suite. HeadquartersAll the latest sanitaryStabling andarrangements Loose Boxes complete. for Hunters, First-rate Ac. An Cuisine Elegant and and choice Spacious Wines, Ballroom &c. toGood be letFlys, for Ac., Balls, on hire.Concerts, Dinners, Meetings,Omnibus Sales, meets Ac. all Tariff Trains. on application. Posting. A NIGHT PORTER ALWAYS IN ATTENDANCE. HENRY CHARLES GROGAN, Proprietor. GOLSPIE. ROYAL SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL ■"DEAUTIFULLYLf of which are open situated to the within Public. a mileFree of DunrobinTrout Fishing Castle, on theLoch Grounds Brora for parties staying at the Hotel. Five minutes’ walk from sea-shore. Horses and Carriages on Hire. An Omnibus meets Trains. Charges moderate. JAMES MITCHELL, Proprietor. GREENOCK. TONTINE HOTEL. THE ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL IN TOWN. (Nearly opposite the Caledonian Railway Station). Magnificent Billiard Room. New Luncheon Bar and Dining Room. Mrs. BUCHANAN, Proprietrix. (Late of the White Hart Hotel.) 42 GUERNSEY HARROGATE. THE ISLAND OF GUERNSEY. GARDNER’S ROYAL HOTEL, FAMILY & COMMERCIAL HOUSE, ESPLANADE, GUERNSEY. Established 50 Years.

HIGH HARROGATE. GASCOIGNE’S FIRST-CUSS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.

HARROGATE. ROYAL HOTEL. WILLIAM KEIGHLEY, Proprietor. THIS first-class Family Hotel is most pleasantly and healthily situated, and is replete with every comfort for families. Within BILLIARD ROOM. HARROGATE HELENSBURGH . 43 HAKROGATE. “THE GRANBY,” HIGH HARROGATE, FACING THE STRAY. THIS First-Class Family Hotel stands in its own extensive grounds, and is beautifully tions situatedhave lately in thebeen best made part in ofthe Harrogate. House, and GoodVisitors Lawn-Tennis will find in Court.it every Greatconvenience. altera- fromCarriages the Station.to the WellsFor Terms,and Baths &c., everyapply morning free W.of charge.H. MILNER, Ten minutes’ Proprietor. walk ■ Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire- HARROGATE. THE IMPERIAL HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. AOpposite HYGIENIC the homeRoyal for Pump-Room visitors and invalids,and adjoining and especially the new for Publicthe treatment Gardens. of all suitable complaintsTerms by Medical moderate. Electricity. Prospectus free. Electricity in Disease.—How:Illustrated. Post free, to use 2s. it andCloth what boards, it will 3s. accomplish. By J. R. author,Tunmer, or M.R.C.S.E., Mr. E. W. Allen,&c. Ac., Publisher, Resident Ave Medical Maria Superintendent. Lane, London, E.C.To be obtained of the HELENSBURGH. THE Finest Watering-Place in the West of Scotland. Trains and Boats to Loch meet-I- Lomond the “ Iona” and Trossachs,for the Highlands and Steamer by that every most morningcelebrated to Route—Ardrishaig,Dunoon at 8.45, in Crinan,time to HOTELand Oban, are to now Staffs completed, and Iona. and Thethe Suitesalterations of Apartments and improvements for Families at cannotthe QUEEN’S be sur- arranged.passed. The A viewmagnificent of the ClydeCoffee andRoom. Lake Smoking is most andmagnificent. Billiard Room. Tourists conveniently All Charges strictly Moderate. Omnibuses and Carriages to all Steamers and Trains. A WILLIAMSON, Proprietor. HELSTON. ANGEL HOTEL, FOR THE LIZARD AND KYNANCE COVE. THISand Hotel is especially affords everyadapted Accommodation for Excursionists. for Families Twenty and minutes’ Gentlemen, walk fromLizard the daily celebrated (Sundays excepted) Pool. Postingduring thein allSeason. its branches. Brake to the W. BLACKWELL, Proprietor. 44 Hunter’s quay—Ilfracombe {seep. 45)—ilkley {seep. 46). HUNTER’S QUAY, HOLY LOCH. THE ROYAL MARINE HOTEL, TJEADQUARTERS of ROYAL CLYDE YACHT CLUB. Situated close to Hunter’s walk Quay,of Kim at Pier.which PierThe SteamersHotel has call lately serera! been times considerably a day, and enlarged, is within andten minutes’is most Chargescomfortably strictly furnished, moderate. offering Visitors superior boarded accommodation by day or week.for Families Coaches and pass Gentlemen. daily by DunoonLoch Eck and Route Sandbank to and byfrom brakes. Inveraray. Hot, Cold,There Spray, is frequent and Douche communication Baths. Carriagesbetween and Boats for hire. OSCAR TROEGER, Manager. ILFRACOMBE. ROYAL CLARENCE FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. T) EPLETEnumber withof Bedrooms, every Home has comfort.recently beenA spacious added. Ladies’Moderate Coffee Charges. Room, withTariff large on application.First-Class Billiard Room. Omnibus meets every Train. CHARLES Ed. CLEMOW, Proprietor. In connection with Anderton’sRoyal, Hotel, Boston, Fleet Line.Street, London, and Peacock and ILKLEY, YORKSHIRE. MIDDLETON HOTEL, FACING THE MOORS. HIS First-Class Family Hotel stands in its own extensive grounds on the banks of the picturesque River Wharfe, six miles from the famous Bolton Woods. Spacious Dining, Drawing, and Coffee Rooms. Billiard and Smoke Rooms. Suites of Apartments, &c. TABLE D’HOTE, 6.45-SEPARATE TABLE. T.ENNTS COURTS. GOOD STABLING. TARIFF ON APPLICATION TO The Manageress. ilfkacombe (see also p. 44). 45

THE ILFRACOMBE HOTEL. NEWLY DECORATED AND FURNISHED. Rooms.250 Apartments.Reading Room. Magnificent Large Billiard Salle ARoom. Manger. Comfortable Elegant SmokingDrawing EightRoom. LawnOrnamental Tennis Courts. Grounds of Five Acres, extending to the Sea. Table d’H6te Dinner at Separate Tables, daily from 6 to 8 o'clock. There is attached to the Hotel one of the largest Swimming Baths in England. Also Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. THEhood attractions point to of it Ilfracombe, as the natural and centre the places to be of chosen interest by in the the Tourist neighbour- who whichdesires Northto see Devonwith comfort affords. allThere the beauties is also easyof Coast access and into Inland South Scenery Devon andRoad, Cornwall. and Steamboat The meansare most of complete.communication with Ilfracombe by Rail, Tourist Ticketsat all to Ilfracombethe principal for Railway two months Stations are issuedin England. during the Season Full descriptive TariffNorth ofDevon. MANAGER, Ilfracombe, 46 ilkley (see also p. 44)—ixveraray—Inverness. ILKLEY, WHARFEDALE, vid LEEDS, YORKSHIRE. TROUTBECK HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND SANATORIUM. Physician—THOMASProprietor and Manager—JOHN SCOTT, M.D., DOBSON. M.R.C.S.E. and0f mostthe best beautiful Health of Resorts the Yorkshire in the kingdom.dales. A HomeThe finest for theair, theInvalid purest requiring water, treatment,famed for being or the one Visitor of the in most search compact of health and andcomfortable change. inThis Ilkley; establishment whilst the isgrounds justly open on to Rombald’sFor Moor, full affording Prospectus, picturesque address—JOHN walks for miles.DOBSON, as above. INVERARAY. ST. CATHERINE’S HOTEL, LOCH FYNE, FACING INVERARAY. DONALD SUTHERLAND, Proprietcrr. GOOD Shooting, Grouse, Black Game, &c., for Visitors; also Stream start fromand Lochand stop Fishing. at St. Catherine’s.Coaches in connectionPosting. withCarriages Glasgow on Hire.Steamers Moderate Charges. INVERNESS. THE VICTORIA HOTEL. Nearest First-Class Hotel to Canal Steamers.

rPHE VICTORIA is the most modern and best situated Hotel in Inverness, being opposite the Castle, close to the Cathedral, and overlooking the River Ness. 47 48 INVERNESS.

INVERNESS. THE ROYAL HOTEL. Opposite the entrance to the Railway Station. J. S. Christie begs to solicit the attention of the travelling Public to this large well-known First-class Hotel, which has been greatly enlarged, and now comprehends, besides extensive First-class Bed- room accommodation, a SPACIOUS and LOFTY LADIES’ and GENTLEMEN’S DINING SALOON, with handsome DRAWING ROOM en suite, and several elegant and handsomely furnished SUITES of PRIVATE ROOMS ; also SMOKING ROOM, HOT, COLD, and SHOWER BATH ROOMS, etc. Though immediately opposite and within a few yards of the Railway Station entrance, the Hotel is entirely removed from the bustle, noise, and other disturbing influences which usually affect the comfort of Hotels situated in close proximity to the Railway. Table d’HSte daily, and Dinners A la Carte. The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of all trains, and an Omnibus attends the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Posting. INVERNESS. 49 MACBEAN’S IMPERIAL HOTEL, INVERNESS. The most central toFirst-class the Railway Hotel Station. in Town, and opposite Billiard Boom with Two Tables, Hot and Cold Baths, and upwards of 60 Rooms. The Hotel OmnibusWINES attends AND allLIQUORS Steamers, OF and SUPERIOR Porters await QUALITY. the arrival of Trains. INVERNESS. THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY COMPANY’S STATION HOTEL. Frequently Patronised by the Royal Family. A PRIVATEattend the entrance Trains, fromand anthe Omnibus platform theunder Caledonian cover. TheCanal Hotel Steamers. Porters POSTING. VERY MODERATE TARIFF. EDWARD CESARI, Manager. WHEN YOU ARE IN THE HIGHLANDS VISIT SHANKLIN, ISLE OF WIGHT. rpHIS old-established, high-class Family Hotel, standing -L in its own Grounds, at the head of the Chine and close to the Esplanade, is now under entirely new and improved Management, containing numerous Suites of small and large I elegant Apartments. Visitors will meet with every HOME f COMFORT, and special arrangements are made with Families for lengthened periods. TABLE D’HOTE AT 7 O’CLOCK. DINNERS A LA CARTE. As per Order. POST HORSES AND CARRIAGES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Reduced Winter Terms. CROQUET GROUNDS. LAWN TENNIS. E. G.Proprietor. BOEHME, JOSEPHManager.' ROTTER, ISLE OP WIGHT. 51 ISLE OF WIGHT. DROVER’S MARINE HOTEL, PARADE, WEST COWES.

JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR.

PLEASANTLY SITUATED, FACING TEE SEA. The Comfort of Visitors stvdied in every way. N.B.—Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. SHANKLIN FOR SUNSHINE. HINTON’S ROYAL SPA HOTEL, Facing the Sea and under the Cliffs in the ISLE OF WIGHT. A SHELTERED AND SEQUESTERED NOOK. DRAWING-ROOM, CONSERVATORY, FLOWERS, & BIRDS. Table d’hote at 7. Separate Tables. 50 Bed and Sitting Rooms. Billiards Free of Charge and constant Amusements for Families residing in the Hotel 52 ISLE OP WIGHT KILLARNEY. Situate in its own Extensive Grounds close to CHINE and BEACH GOOD SEA VIEWS.

I LAWN TENNIS. Spacious Coffee & Billiard Room. Table d’hdte at 7 o’clock. On parle Francais. Man sprich Deutsch. L. H. COLENUTT, Proprietor. freshwater BAY, ISLE OF WIGHT. ALBION HOTEL AND BOARDING HOUSE. Facing due South, close to the Sea, and commanding unrivalled Sea Views. Every Comfort combined with Moderate Charges. Miss M. DUKE, Proprietress. KILLARNEY LAKE DISTRICT. THE MUCKROSS HOTEL, Railway Station, at which the hotel ’bus attends. Surrounded by pleasant walks and desirabledrives, many place objects to spend of agreat few daysinterest or weeks. and beauty, this Hotel will be found a most ing.Angling.—The There is also good Proprietor Salmon hasand arrangedTrout Pishing for the on use the of lakes,Visitors which good are Salmon Free, Fish- and Anglers can have boatsTariff from and the other Proprietor particulars without on charge. application. ROSSPlease HOTEL. be particular to observe the ’bus you enter bears the name, THE MUCK- KILLARNEY (set also p. 55). 53 Kl LLARN EY By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission. THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL (Open throughout the Year.) SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF THE LOWER LAKE. PatronisedDUKE byOF H.R.H.CONNAUGHT THE PRINCE ; by the OF Royal WALES; Families by of H.R.H.France, the Belgium,and Ireland&c. ; the ; andNobility Leading and AmericanGentry of Families. Great Britain Hotel is situated on the shore of the Lower Lake, lacing the far-famed Island of Innisfallen, within ten minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the Gap of Dunloe. TABLE D’HOTE DURING THE SEASON. Boarding terms from October to June inclusive. Postal Telegraph Office in the House. JOHN O’LEARY, Proprietor. LAKES OF KILLARNEY. THE LAKE HOTEL.” The only Hotel in Killamey situated on the Lake Shore. It is essentialestablishment to apprise Tourists called “THEthat there LAKE is HOTEL.”at Killamey hut one IT Loweris situate Lake, in inthe the Bay centre of Casslelough,of the varied on scenery the Eastern of the Lakes,Shore withinof the tenroad minutes’ where GlengarrifF drive of the Tourist Railway Car Station, takes up and and two puts minutes’ down travellers.walk of public tinctiveThe waterstitle, “The of the Lake Lake Hotel.”approach the Hall Door, and hence the dis- Boats andBILLIARDS. Vehicles of every descriptionBATHS. supplied atLAWN fixed and TENNIS. Moderate Prices. ampleNo wagesGratuities by the allowed Proprietor. to Drivers, Boatmen, etc., as they are paid HTroinc!The Lake Hotel Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of the 0 Toomies,o* . DunloeJr , ‘"“o'* Gap, and"Aaugoiwu, Carranthual, aupu, and concentratesh DiesL, XUin I-pie one muuiibaiu,view all thatvjieiiii. is Hand-Book,"graceful, picturesque, page 382. and sublime in the scenery of KiUuniey."—Bradshaw’s “ Tourists 54 KILLIN KINGSTOWN (KINROSS, See LOCH LEVEN, p. 58). LOCH TAY, PERTHSHIRE. KILLIN HOTEL.

■ f s: 2ssst5i5as«w-

KINGSTOWN. ROYAL MARINE HOTEL. THIS Magnificent Hotel, one of the largest in Ireland, unrivalled in extensivesituation, views ofopposite the Bay the of Dublin,Royal Mailis replete Packet with Pier, every and modern commanding comfort. LADIES’ COFFEE ROOM. BILLIARD ROOM, &c. WITHIN TWELVE MINUTES OF DUBLIN BY BAIL. LUGGAGE SHOULD BE LABELLED FOR “KINGSTOWN PIER.” Sir C. A. Cameron, Chief Officer of Health, City of Dublin, has bycertified Messrs. that Maguire the sanitary and arrangementsSon, of Dublin, recently are most carried perfect. out in the Hotel PROPRIETORS: The Royal Marine Hotel Company of Kingstown, Limited. For Apartments address The Manager. KILL ARNEY (seep. 53) KIRKWALL LANARK LEAMINGTON. 55 LA.KES OF KILLARNEY. DORAN’S LAKE VIEW HOTEL. COMMANDSMountain Scenery.the loveliest It isand within most a extensivefew minutes’ views walk of theof theLake Lower and fall.Lake, VisitorsMuckross will Abbey find and this demesne, Hotel mostand ancomfortable. easy distance Tariff, of Tore 7s. Water-6d. to 10s. 6d. per day. Omnibus attends all Trains. KIRKWALL—ORKNEY ISLES. THE KIRKWALL HOTEL. WILLIAM DUNNET, Proprietor, begs to intimate that the Hotel has been recently Billiard,'' enlarged, and Smoking thus affording Rooms. additional Private accommodation, Parlours, with comprising comfortable, Coffee, well-aired, Commercial, and adornedspacious withBedrooms. large trees, The which Pleasure shade Grounds, the Bowling, adjoining Croquet, the andHotel, Quoit are Greens. beautifully The CathedralHotel is situated and Bishop’s within Palace.a few minutes’ Conveyances walk of wait the Pier,arrival and of inDaily close Mail proximity Steamer to from the charge.Thurso. PostingGentlemen in all staying its departments. at this Hotel may enjoy Shooting and Fishing free of LANARK (FALLS OF CLYDE). CLYDESDALE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND TOURIST. Posting in all its Branches. Omnibus awaits all Trains. Tickets of Admission to Falls supplied at the Hotel. W. CRICHTON, Proprietor. LEAMINGTON. ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA. FIRST-CLASSMANOR for Families andHOUSE Gentlemen. Surrounded HOTEL. by its most magnificently closelaid-out proximity grounds, to both sloping Railway to the Stations—thus River Leam, facing making the it Pump-Room one of the prettiestGardens, andplaces in ofall resortmodern in thecomforts. Kingdom. Handsome The Hotel Coffee has andbeen Ladies’ considerably Drawing enlarged, Rooms, furnished Ac. French with and EnglishPOSTING, Cuisine. Table&c. SPLENDIDd’Hote at Seven NEW o’clock. BOXES FOR HUNTERS. (And of the Pavilion Hotel,ROBERT Scarhoro’, LAMPLOUGH,late White Hart Hotel, Proprietor. Harrogate.) 56 'LLANDUDNO LLANGOLLEN LOCH AWE. LLANDUDNO. THE IMPERIAL FAMILY HOTEL (centre of bat.) THIS1872, First-Class and is now Hotel one has of thetwice Finest been andenlarged Largest since in Northit was Wales.opened in Apartments en mite. Special Terms for Families. Excellent Stabling. Private Omnibus for the exclusive use of Visitors to the Hotel. JOHN CHANTItEY, Proprietor. LLANGOLLEN. EDWAKDS’ HAND HOTEL. Unequalled for the Beauty of its Situation on the Banks of the Dee. suitSeveral the requirementsBedrooms and of Sitting Families Rooms visiting have this been delightful added Neighbourhood.to the House to TABLE D’HOTE, 6.30. BILLIARDS. Omnibuses from this Hotel meet all Trains. LOCH AWE. FREE TROUT, SALMON, AND SALMO-FEROX FISHING ON LOCH AWE. FTAYCRECCANIRST-CLASS HOTEL forHOTEL, Families and NORTH Anglers, close PORTSONACHAN. to Loch Awe at Portsonachan, Station.half anReplete hour’s with sail every from convenience.Loch Awe Station, Is the and nearest one hour’s First-class drive Hotelfrom Taynuiltto Loch withinAwe, Loch easy Avich, walking Loch distance, Nant, andand tensome other of which Hill Lochs, have beenall Free stocked to Visitors with Lochand mostly Leven Pier.Trout, andA Coach can only in heconnection fished by with staying the atSteamer this Hotel. “Countess All Steamers of Breadalbane” call at the leavesHotel nuilt,Hotel Oban,daily inHead the ofseason, Loch runningEtive, and through Loch Awe,Glen viaNant. Pass Passengersof Brander. booked Baths. for GoodTay- Boats.Telegraph Best Fishing Address—Taycregqan, Tackle. Post Horses. Looh Awe.Families Boarded. A.Lawn & A. Tennis. MUNRO. THE LOCH AWE AND DALMALLY HOTELS, ARGYLLSHIRE. THE scenery round these well-known Hotels is certainly the finest in tourists.the Highlands.Numerous delightfulSituations Excursions unsurpassed. by coach, The rail, great and centressteamer. for Capital Salmon and Trout Fishing, Boating, Tennis, Billiards, etc. excursions.Visitors to Exhibition will find these Hotels central for numerous DUNCAN ERASER, Proprietor. LOCH AWE LOCH EARN (see also X>. 58) LOCH ERICHT. 57 PORTSONACHAN HOTEL (LOCH AWE, ARGYLLSHIRE, N.B.), T S beautifully situated (half an hour’s sail from Loch Awe Station), and is the best ■*- Theangling Hotel station was lately on the rebuilt, Lake. and is now replete with every comfort. The fishing, able.which Theis first Hotel class, Steamer is free. plys Commodious three times boatsdaily toand Station. experienced Numerous boatmen daily always excursions avail- from Hotel by Coach and Steamer. HotelTHOMAS Tariff CAMERON, free on application. Proprietor. Telegraphic Address—“ Portsonachan Hotel, Loch Awe."

,O'HIS we' 1 Newadapted and for Commotliot Families and Tourists. St. |Fillans is on„„ „„„ „ , bepass met daily with during anywhere. the summer Boats months. for Fishing and Carriages for Hire. Caledonianluv A.Ies DAVIE.place8 Coaches LOCH ERICHT. LOCH ERICHTn kr0 HOTEL, DALWHINNIE. "’®8tat- > 'H,Rh,a™ and commodiousn Hotel, within a few minutes’ walk of the Dal- f thTm^r i 0°r f, t ,'J Ra'^ay, is situated in the midst of Higiiland scenery ?Wh FViJhtf description Mfi T T ; and Families,has recently Tourists, been furnished and,Ch Anglers. andtl,e fitted Excellent up with Fishingevery con- on theMas thethe^ver Loch, River and Tniimrruim.supplied Partieswtth Boats staying free atof charge.the HotelV have* ™ the ’'•’ighbourhood,privilege of Fishing as Swell on LochThe Laggan. above isPosting the nearest in ail Stationits branches. from e South on the road to Fort-William v Dalwhinnie. JOHN MCDONALD, Lessee. 58 loch barn (see also p. 57)—loch ptne—loch leven. LOCH EARN HEAD. LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL, BALQUHIDDER, PERTHSHIRE. 12 miles by rail from Callander. [Under Royal Patronage. Twice visited by the Queen.) HCHISFamilies Hotel, andwhich Tourists, has been with longevery established, comfort and has quiet, excellent lies highaccommodation and dry, andfor finecharmingly views of sheltered the surrounding at the foot Hills of theand Wild Loch, Glen the Ogleold Castle(the Kyber of Glenample, Pass). It the commands scenery Lochof the Voil, Legend Loch of Doine,Montrose, and Lochin the Luhnaig, neighbourhood with many of Benfine Voirlich,drives and Rob walks. Roy's Posting Grave, andfor the Carriages. Trains during Boats Summer. for Fishing Coaches and Rowing to and free. from A Crieff ’Bus todaily and infrom Summer. the Hotel An Episcopal Church. R. DAYTON. canThe proceed Callander next morningand Oban with Railway greater iscomfort. now open. Parties breaking the journey here LOCH FYNE. CAIRNDOW HOTEL, HEAD OP LOCH PYNE. PARTIES staying at the Hotel can have excellent Salmon and Trout pages Fishing,188 and free184 of charge,The Sportsman’s on the River and Kinglass Tourist's and Guide. Loch Restal.The Tarbet, See Inveraray, and ObanHORSES Coaches AND pass CARRIAGES the Hotel dailyON HIRE. during the season. WILLIAM JONES, Proprietor. KINROSS, LOCH LEYEN. KIRKLANDS HOTEL. fpHIS-1- years old-established proprietor of Hotel Queen’s (having Hotel, been Perth), leased is by now Peter equal Henry to any sen., first-class nearly nineteen Hotel. halfKirklands way between Hotel is Kinross well known Railway for convenience, Station and accommodation,Loch Leven. The and proprietor central situation; from his inexperience assuring ofvisitors the trade, that andhe is careful fully able selection to meet of allwines, reasonable liqueurs, commands. etc., has no hesitation Posting in all its Branches. ’Bus awaitsPETER arrival HENRY, of all Proprietor.Trains. 59

rooms, &c. Croquet. Lawn Tennis. A. H. MACPHERSON, Proprietor. LOCH LOMOND. OTEUSNAID HOTEL. rpHIS Hotel is centrally situated in the Scottish .Lake District amidst unrivalled scenery. In the neighbourhood are many places of interest, such as Rob Roy’s Cave, the islands on Loch Lomond, on some of which are the remains of feudal strongholds, and within a few yards of the Hotel, Inversnaid Falls, rendered famous by Wordsworth in his poem “ To a Highland Girl.” Coaches to and from Loch Katrine in connection with all the sailings of the steamer there to and from the Trossachs. LAWN TENNIS. BOATS. BILLIARDS, &c. TROUT FISHING ON THE LOCH FREE. Parties Boarded by Week or Month, except in August. ROBERT BLAIR, Proprietor. 60 LOCH LOMOND LOCH MAKER (p. 62) LOCH NESS. LOCH LOMOND. BALLOGH HOTEL, FOOT OF LOCH LOMOND. THE above Hotel is beautifully situated at the foot of the “Queen of Scottish Lakes,” fort,and combined within twowith minutes' moderate walk charges. of the Railway Station. Visitors will find every com- PartiesFirst-class purposing Billiard to proceed Room, by Smoking first Steamer Room, up Hot Loch and Lomond Cold Baths, would

DALLAS’S DRUMNADROCHIT HOTEL, GLEN UKQUHART, INVERNESS-SHIRE. THISfirst-class old-established scale, having and well-known now Thirty Hotellarge Bedrooms,was entirely splendid rebuilt Coffeesix years and agoDrawing on a HouseBooms, was besides specially Parlours, built forSmoking an Hotel, Room, and Bathis newly Room, and and elegantly all conveniences. furnished in Thethe tion,most combinedmodem style, with and comfort Families and quiet,and Visitors at moderate are now charges. afforded first-class accommoda- andThe extent, Walks while and in Drives the immediate around Dramnadrochitvicinity is scenery are made unrivalled famous forby Phillips,beauty, variety,Millais, Castle,Shirley FallsBrooks, of Dhivach,John Bright, Dog andFalls, others. and the Within famous convenient Glen Affric distances and Strathglass. are Urquhart canVisitors be had instaying the neighbourhood. at the Hotel have liberty to fish in Loch Ness, and other Fishing Posting complete in all Departments, and Conveyances, on Intimation, LETTERS AND TELEGRAMS CAREFULLYD. D. MACDONALD,ATTENDED TO. Lessee. Drumnadrochit Post and Telegraph Office within, Two Minute? walk of Hotel. MR. MACBRAYNE’S STEAMERS CALL AT TEMPLE PIER DAILY. 62 LOCH MAREE LOCHSHIEL (LOCH TAY, See. p. 54) LONDON. LOCH MAREEROSS-SHIRE. HOTEL, rPHIS Hotel,Lately beautifully Her situated Majesty’s in the West centre Highlandof the Loch ResidenceMaree District, and over- the-1- Managementlooking the ofLoch, Miss is M'Aluster. now leased by Mr. T. S. M'Allister, Inverness, and under N.B.—ASeason Coach to convey awaits Passengers the arrival to of Loch all MacBrayne'sMaree Hotel direct,Steamers eight at Gairlochmiles distant. during the Visitors can Boatshave Salmonand Tackle and Trout supplied Fishing fromFree, overthe Hotel.20 sq. m. of Loch. POST ANDPOSTING. TELEGRAPH CHARGES OFFICE ADJOINSMODERATE. THE HOTEL. LOCHSHIEL. LOCHSHIEL FISHINGS. Parties wishing to fish Lochshiel can now be accommodated at DALEALEA HOUSE. These Premises, beautifully situated, and within the immediate vicinity of the Loch, give ready access to the best and most favourite fishing grounds. They have been recently FITTED UP WITH A SPECIAL VIEW TO THE COMFORT OF ANGLERS. For Fishing Terms and Board, etc., apply to RICHARD BABES, DALEALEA HOUSE. Best Route: Railway to Oban, thence per Steamer to Salen-Suinart. LONDON. RESIDENTIAL CLUB—THRALE HALL, STREATHAM, S.W., -LIT ONDON’Sresidence healthiestwith comfort suburb, and elegancewith purest, on very bracing, moderate yet termsbalmy, by air.the dayBoard or week. and warmedNoble Reception, in winter. Reading, Smoking, Billiard, and Recreation Rooms. Corridors Hotel Breakfast,Table 7.45 d’Hbte, HU under9.S0 o.m. experienced Hot Luncheon, “ chef" (6 1or p.m. 7 courses) Tea, at A.SO, 7 p.m. and unequalled Enjoyable Entertainments, Frequent Dances, Lawn and Asphalte Tennis Courts 63

rpHIS Magnificent Hotel, situate in Northumberland Avenue and White- ResidentsJ- hall Place,every possibleTrafalgar convenience Square, is and arranged comfort. and In furnished addition toto a affordlarge apartments,number of single and mostand doubleluxurious Bedrooms, general rooms.there are elegant suites of private Highest class Cuisine, finest Wines, and very best Attendance. The Mdtropole Table d’Hote Dinner, 6 to 8.30, Sundays and Is available for LadiesWeek-days, and Gentlemen price not 5s., residing in the Hotel. Separate Tables, for large or small Parties, may be engaged in advance. 64 LONDON.

HOTEL VICTORIA, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, W.C.,

ONE OF THE MOST MAGNIFICENT HOTELS IN EUROPE- 500 Rooms Superbly Furnished, Unsurpassed for Comfort, Convenience, and Elegance. LIGHTED BY ELECTRICITY THROUGHOUT. PASSENGER LIFTS TO EACH FLOOR. THE TABLE D’HOTE, Open to Non-residents from 6 to 8.30 p.m. Price 5s, The most Perfect Dinner in London. HENRY LOGAN, Manager. LONDON. LONDON. UPPER NORWOOD. CLOSE TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE THE QUEEN’S HOTEL. rTlHIS unique establishment stands unrivalled for the exquisite picturesqueness and beauty of its situation, its command- ing and 'central position, its magnificent gardens and grounds of over five acres, and the commodiousness and completeness of its general arrangements. Delicate persons, to whom a light bracing air, charming scenery, close vicinity to the Crystal Palace and its amusements, and quiet seclusion would be an invalu- able boon, will find, in this establishment, their wishes fully real- ised. New stables have lately been added to the Hotel, giving every accommodation for gentlemen’s horses and carriages. “The Queen’s Hotel, at Upper Norwood, is like a Private Royal Residence, managed with marvellous quietness, and is replete with all domestic comforts and appliances, being a veritable home for individuals as well as families. Lately there have been added some new rooms of magnificent proportions, suitable for balls, wedding breakfasts, public dinners, &c. Ladies and gentlemen can make use of a most delightful coffee-room for meals, overlooking the beautiful grounds. For gentlemen there are billiard and smoking rooms. It deserves the special attention of the nobility and gentry, and their families, who may be seeking the means of restoration to health, both of mind and body, without going far from London.”—From the Court Journal. SPECIAL NOTICE OF WINTER ARRANGEMENTS AND TERMS AT THE ABOVE HOTEL. The Patrons of this establishment are respectfully informed that Tourists, Families, and others are received on most reasonable terms for the Winter months—which season has many enjoyments for Visitors at the itsQueen’s convenient Hotel, vicinity owing toto itsthe elevated, Crystal dry,Palace and and salubrious the Winter situation, Garden, and whilst it commands by Rail easy access to the West End, the City, &c. 66 LONDON. HOTELS, HOME FROM HOME. TURKISH LONDON & FAULKNER’S BATHS, BRIGHTON. ESTABLISHMENTS. Newgate St. CITT CENTRAL HOTEL, NEWGATE ST., and PANYER ALLEY FAULKNER’S HOTEL, VILLIERS ST., STRAND. GARDEN HOTEL, MIDDLE(50 Yards ST., from BRIGHTON, the Sea). LARGE GARDEN. CENTRAL, QUIET, AND MODERATE CHARGES. Tariff on application at 50 Newgate St. and at any Branch in London or Country. HAIR-CUTTIN Gr SALOONS, Hats, Brushes,BATHS (ALL Cutlery, KINDS), Bags,LAVATORIES, Perfumery, AND DRESSING-ROOMS.Hosiery, and General and Emigrants’and all ArticlesOutfitting, required Beds, onBedding, board Ship,Tin andetc., Earthenware, etc. 50 Newgate St, and 3, 4, and 5 Panyer Alley, E.C.; 26 and 2T Villiers St, alongside Station;Charing CrossThe Colonnade,Station; LittleRamsgate Bridge Sands; St, Ludgateand at Hill;Liverpool Fenchurch St Station, St. Railway G. E. St.Railway; Pancras, Broad and allSt. PrincipalStation, N. Stations L. Railway; on the WaterlooMidland Railways.Station, L. and S. W. Railway; ARMFIELD’S SOUTH PLACE HOTEL, FINSBURY, LONDON, EG, IS Unsurpassed for its Central Position and Easy Access from all parts of years.the KingdomIt has been and recentlyMetropolis. enlarged, With decorated,a high reputation and refurnished, for over thirty and asnow a First-classaffords increased Temperance efficiency Hotel. with modern comforts at a moderate tariff, The Apartments, which are cheerful and comfortably furnished, con- well-appointedsist of Coffee, Commercial, and Airy Bedrooms. and Private Ladies’ Sitting Drawing Rooms, withRoom about select. Seventy furnishedWell-ventilated by Burroughes Smoking & Watts. and Billiard Rooms, for the use of Visitors, Telephone 140. A Night Porter. Telegraph Armfield’s, London. Terms, &c., per return of post on applicationJOSEPH ARMFIELDto the Proprietors, & SON. Three minutes' walk fromMoorgate Broad Stations, Street, Liverpool Street, and LONDON. 67 THE SARACEN’S HEAD HOTEL, SNOW HILL, HOLBORN VIADUCT, LONDON, E.C. Opposite the Snow Hill Station of the L. C.

THE THE PERFECT PERFECT EMPTY FITTED BAG. BAG. AND THE BEST BAG EVER INVENTED FOR CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING. LIGHT, STRONG, SECURE. Catalogues Post Free. JAMES BENSON, Trunk, Portmanteau and Leather Bag Manufacturer. LADIES’ DRESS TRUNKS, From 7s. 6d. TravellingLeather Bags. Bags. ElasticRailway Stockings. Rugs, Ladies’Ladies' Boxes.Bags. DrivingWaterproof Aprons. Beds. Ladies'perials. Dress Im- OverlandIndia and trunks all parts for Waterproofings. Sheet- India-Rubberof the world. Toys. Ladies’Capes. Waterproof Overshoes,Leggings AllStraps. kinds of leather STRONG AND PORTMANTEAUS, From 8s. 6d. PRICE LIST FREE. A large number of Second-handPortmanteaus Travelling and Truidcs. Bags, Ladies’ Dress Baskets, 3, 4, & 263 Tottenham Court Road, & 1 Great Russell Street, London. LONDON LONDONDERRY LYNTON. 69 TRANTER’S HOTEL, LONDON. T7TSITORS will find comfortable bed-rooms for 2s. per night, with use ' of sitting-rooms, etc., at Tranter’s Temperance Hotel, 7, 8, 9, Sip, Barbican, near St. Paul’s Cathedral, G.P.O., and all places of interest, and two minutes from Aldersgate Street Station. Established 1859. Tariff and “ A Week’s Guide to London,” free on application. No charge for attendance. RECENTLY ENLARGED. JURY’S HOTEL, LONDONDERRY. rpOURISTS, Families, and Commercial Gentlemen visiting the North oi combined-L Ireland with will moderate find the charges. above Hotel replete with every accommodation, A NIGHT PORTER ALWAYS IN ATTENDANCE. Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of all Trains and Steamers. GEORGE J. JURY, Proprietor.

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by TheH.R.H. finest the Prince sea and of Wales land and views other in Members the world. of the Royal Family. THISabove Hotel, the levelstanding of the in sea,its ownoverlooking ornamental the Bristolgrounds Channel, of about commands 70 acres, uninter-500 feet ruptedCountisbury views Hills, of the The Valleys Tors, theof theVillage East of and Lynmouth, West Lynn, the Foreland, Lynn Cliff, the BrendonWelsh Coast, and andProprietor the far-famed nearly 50Valley years, of the Rocks. Hotel Havinghas been been recently under and the extensively management enlarged of the presentto meet the requirementsconveniences of modema first-class society, Hotel. and Elegantcombines Suites the comforts of Private of aApartments. private house Table with Season,d’Hflte, NewCoffee and Room, Commodious and Ladies’ Smoking Drawing and Billiard Room,—to Rooms, which all facing have the been sea. added,Excellent this Cuisine.at the Hotel Moderate only. In Charges. connection Shooting with this(Blackcock Hotel, andand other in the game) same for delightful Gentlemen grounds, staying istion a PRIVATEfor Families HOTEL visiting and this BOARDING charming neighbourhood. HOUSE, which offers excellent accommoda- Post Horses and CarriagesSALMON of AND every TROUT description. FISHING. First-class Stabling- Coaches in the Season to Barnstaple, Ilfracombe, and Minehead. EXMOOR PONIES FOR SALE. TARIFFTHOMAS ON BAKER!APPLICATION. Proprietor. 70 LYNTON MALVERN . LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE VALLEY(ESTABLISHED OF ROCKS 1800). HOTEL TVELIGHTFULLYIn situated every respectin extensive First-Glass ornamental and Grounds Complete. 500 feet above the level Lynns,of Ac.the Ac.Sea, withElegant a full Suites view of of Apartments, it, also the Foreland,also Spacious the Torrs,Table d’Hotethe valleys and ofCoffee the toRooms, secure Reading home comforts, Rooms, andgood Ladies’ fare, and Drawing prompt Room. attention. The mostHandsomely-fitted modern conveniences Billiard RoomCHARGES open during MODERATE. the Season for ResidentsTARIFF in FORWARDED the Hotel only. ON APPLICATION. Post Horses and Carriages.JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. MALVERN. THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL “ rpHE first time(Patronised we visited by Malvern,the Royal when Family). shown into an upper WeJ- can chamberhardly say in morethe than‘Foley that Arms,’ the prospect we were struck literally us as takenfar finer aback. than articlefrom the in terrace"Blackwood,” over the August Thames 188Jf. at Richmond, etc., etc.”—Extract from Coffee-Room and Drawing-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. EDWARD ARCHER, Proprietor. Miss YOUNGER, Manageress. MALVERN. THE ABBEY HOTEL, IN EXCELLENT SITUATION. MOST COMFORTABLE .FAMILY HOTEL. Coffee-Room, Reading-Room, and Drawing-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. L. ARCHER, Proprietor. Miss SCHNEIDER, Manageress. MANCHESTER. GRAND HOTEL COMPANY OF MANCHESTER, LIMITED. AYTOUN STREET. PORTLAND STREET. The Best Hotel inFirst-Class the City. CuisineEvery andmodem Cellar. convenience. Lift. Apply to the MANAGER. MATLOCK BRIDGE MATLOCK BATH. 71 SMEDLEY’S HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. Matlock Bridge, Derbyshire. Physicians: W. B. HUNTER, M.D., &c.; J. G. G. CORKHILL, M.B., M.R.C.S.Eng. &c. TURKISH and RUSSIAN BATHS have been built specially adapted in Generalventilation Bath Houses and otherwisehave been tocompletely the requirements reconstructed, of Invalids. the Bedroom The accommodationoffices and in the increased, Public andRoom considerable accommodation, improvements the Grounds, in the andentrance the generalAs amanagement WINTER effected.RESIDENCE, this place is specially adapted for affordingsufferers warmfrom Chestand well-ventilated and Digestive Public Disorders, Rooms, Rheumatism, Bedrooms, andCorridors, Gout, coveredlarge Billiard Balconies, Room, permitting with two opentables, - air and exercise Smoking in all Room. weathers; Hydraulic and a PassengerThe numbers Hoist toduring the Bedroom the Winter flights. Months average from 100 to 150. For full particulars see the Prospectus, to be had onTHE application MANAGER. to MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE. TYACK’S NEW BATH HOTEL, Recently enlarged and newly furnished, adjoining the Pavilion Grounds. Affords every comfort and convenience of a first-class modern Hotel, and has Pleasure Grounds extending to 12 acres, commanding some of the finest views of Derbyshire. It has been long patronised by the best English and American Families. Private Sitting Rooms, Drawing Room, Smoke, and Billiard Rooms. A large Swimming Bath, Hot and Cold Baths. Lawn Tennis, 5 miles of Fishing in the Derwent. Balls weekly during the Season. Posting, Stabling. ’BUS MEETS EACH TRAIN. Terms Strictly Moderate, for which apply to the Proprietor, T. TYACK. Public conveyances daily to Chatsworth, , Castle- ton, , Wingfield Manor, 72 MATLOCK BATH MELROSE MOFFAT. MATLOCK BATH. THE ROYAL HOTEL {LATE OLD BATS) AND HYDROPATHIC BATHS. J. A. HINTON, Proprietor. THE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY GATE, AND GEORGE AND ABBOTSFORD HOTEL,

G. HAMILTON, Proprietor. MELROSE. THE WAVERLEY HYDROPATHIC. QNE hour from Edinburgh, one and a half from Carlisle. Terms from £2 : 2s. per week. Summer, from £2 : 9s. Baths, Billiards, Bowling, Lawn Tennis, Trout Pishing in Tweed included. First-class Table. For Prospectus apply to FRANK DUNK, Manager. MOFFAT SPA. ANNANDALE ARMS HOTEL.

OMNIBUSES^PLY^TO THE WELL EVERY MORNING- i, Proprietor. MONMOUTH NAIRN. 73 MONMOUTH. VALLEY OF THE WYE. THE KING’sllEAD HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. FTIHIS old-established Hotel, situate in Agincourt Square, the centre of the town, is replete with every accommodation for Families and Tourists, at Moderate Charges. A SPACIOUS LADIES’ COFFEE ROOM, AND A SUPERIOR BILLIARD ROOM. An Omnibus meets every Train. JOHN THOMAS, Proprietor. NAIRN ROYAL MARINE HOTEL Patronised(Fifteen miles by Souththe Hoyal of Inverness). Family. THE “BRIGHTON OF THE NORTH.” A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Tourists at Moderate Rates. ough Theand extensiveHouse was Repair, specially and built is newly for an and Hotel, elegantly and has Furnished undergone in the a thor-most Ladies’modem andstyle, Gentlemen’s and contains Dining numerous Saloon, Suiteswith Drawing of Private Room Rooms, ; also includingSmoking Room,The Billiard Climate Room, of Nairn &c. is wellOver known70 Beds to can be bethe made best up. in Scotland, and is becomingTourists from yearly all moreparts andof the more Kingdom. a favourite It resortis also of in the high Upper repute Classes with andthe leadingincreasing Physicians numbers toof securethe country, the benefits who ofinvariably the dry and recommend bracingair their of the patients district. in a powerfulSuperior Steam Hot Engineand Cold direct Salt from Water the sea. Baths in the Hotel, supplied by willAn be Omnibusdone in first-class awaits the style, arrival and of will all betrains. carefully Posting attended in all to. its branches (LateJOHN Lessee MACDONALD, of the Station Hotel, Proprietor Inverness). THE STATION HOTEL FIRST CLASS. NEAREST RAILWAY STATION AND PIER. VIEWS UNSURPASSED. C. CAMPBELL, Proprietrix. OBAN. 75

OBAN. THE ALEXANDRA FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, ON THE ESPLANADE, OBAN.

Stands within its own Grounds, & commands the Finest View in Oban. NEW BILLIARD ROOM. ’BUS FREE OF CHARGE. L. G. M£ARTHUR, Proprietor. 76 OBAN. OBAN. KING’S ARMS HOTEL JJASsteamboat a commanding wharf; sea and view; possesses is adjacent home tocomforts, the railway combined station withand moderateLadies’ charges. Drawing Room. Billiard, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Tariff 011 application.Boots Parties waits the boarded arrival onof Trainsmoderate and terms.Steamers. Table d’Hdte daily. GentlemenTelegraphic staying at address,this Hotel “ canM'TAVISH,” have good Oban.Trout Fishing. OBAN. SUTHERLAND’S GREAT WESTERN HOTEL LARGEST AND LEADING HOTEL IN THE WEST HIGHLANDS. An Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of Trains and Steamers. Visitors conveyed to and from the Hotel free of Charge. OBAN. VICTORIA HOTEL. First-Class Temperance—the only High-class in close proximity to Railway Station, Pier, and Post Office. 60 Bedrooms at disposal. Bedrooms Is. 6

QUEEN’S HOTEL. ON THE ESPLANADE. THISIt IsHotel the principalhas a frontage and largest of over in 170Penzance. feet, all Forthe roomsFamilies, of whichLadies, overlook and Gentlemen the sea. theonly. mildness Penzance of standsits climate unrivalled is admirably for the variety adapted and to quiet invalids. beauty Apartments of its scenery, m whilstmite. ColdLadies' Baths. Drawing, Table Beading, d'Hfite. and Coffee Booms,' Billiard and Smoking Booms, Hot and An Omnibus meets every Train. PORTING IN ALL ITS BEANCHES. ALEX. H. HOE A, Proprietor. PENZANCE. MOUNT’S BAY HOTEL, ON THE ESPLANADE. TPHISx Old-Established Hotel has an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of Mount’s Suites of Apartments.Bay andLadies’ St. Michael's Coffee Mount. and Drawing Rooms. Hot and Cold Baths. Table d’Hote. Omnibus and Porter meet all Trains. Charges strictly Moderate. SPECIAL TERMS FOR WINTER MONTHS. Tariff on Application to C. BALL, Proprietor. 80 pitlochrie (see also p. 82).

PITLOCHRIE. pr SHIR’S HO TIL. FIRST-CLASS ANDFAMILY HOTEL POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. PARTIES wishing to see the magnificent Scenery in this part of the been made)Scottish most Highlands convenient, will findfor in this One Hotel Drive (to they which can large visit additions the have FaHs of Tummel, the Queen’s View of Loch Tummel; TheGlen Far-Famed Tilt; The Pass FaHs of of KiUiecrankie; Bruar, &c. Pitlochrie is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spital of Glen- sheeTummel and Bridge.Braetfiar; and to Taymouth Castle and Kinloch-Rannoch,, ,,by LochsSalmon in the and neighbourhood. Trout Fishing on the Rivers Tummel and Garry, and on the leave the Hotel daily duringEXCURSION the summer COACHES season for Pass of Killiecrankie,.. Tilt,Falls &c.of Braar,Seats Queen’ssecured Viewat the onHotel. Loch FaresTummel, moderate. Kinloch-Rannoch, Glen Job and PostBy Horsesthe Day, and Week, Carriages or Month. of every hind. ORDERS BY TELEGRAPHPUNCTUALLY FOR ROOMS, ATTENDED CARRIAGES, TO. OR COACH SEATS, Two Lines of Railway from London and the North of England to Plymouth, viz.- THE ROYALHOTEL,PLYMOUTH. SPACIOUS GENERALCOFFEE ROOM.RETIRING

Good Smoking BoomforGentlemenstaying intheHotel. Great-Western and London and South-Western. Plymouth (seealsop.82). FOR LADIES. S„ PEARSE, Proprietor

EXTENSIVE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. 81 82 PITLOCHBIE PLYMOUTH {see also p. 81}—RHYL—RIPON. ATHOLE HYDROPATHIC. PITLOCHRIE, PERTHSHIRE. THIS Palatial Establishment, after extensive alterations, extension of on theTennis 25th May,Courts, &c., will be reopened for the reception of Visitors UNDER THE PERSONAL SUPERVISION OP THE Proprietor, W. MACDONALD,Perth Station, Hoyal Refreshment Rooms, WHO WILL FORWARD PROSPECTUSES ON APPLICATION. PLYMOUTH. GRAND HOTEL. (ON THE HOE.) THE ONLY HOTEL WITH SEA VIEW. Facing Sound, Breakwater, Eddystone. MAIL STEAMERS ANCHOR IN SIGHT. Public Rooms and Sitting Rooms, with Balconies. JAMES BOHN, Proprietor. EHYL—NORTH WALES. WESTMINSTEH HOTEL. COLWYN BAY—NORTH WALES. IMPERIAL HOTEL. RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY. UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. Patronised by H. R. H. PRINCE of WALES. ONE of the Oldest Established Hotels in the North of England, and muchthe enlarged principal and inimproved. Ripon. To meet requirements it has been lately Orders by Post punctually attended to. R. E. COLLINSON, Wine and Spirit Merchant, Proprietor. bothesay (see alsop.36)—sx. fillans (seep.57)—Salisbury. 83 ROTHESAY, ISLE OF BUTE. (Opposite the Pier.) • THE BUTE ARMS HOTEL. (UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.) THISmodation Old-Established for Families, and Tourists, First-Class and HotelCommercial affords Gentlemen. excellent accom- PARTIES ChargesBOARDED Strictly BY THE Moderate. WEEK OR MONTH. ROBERT SMITH, Proprietor. SALISBURY.

THE WHITE HART HOTEL. The Largest and Principal Hotel in the City. A N old-established and well-known first-class Family Hotel, ■L*- nearly opposite Salisbury Cathedral, and within a pleasant drive of Stonehenge. This Hotel is acknowledged to be one of the most comfortable in England. Table d’Hote at separate Tables from 6.30 to 8.30 p.m. daily. A Ladies’ Coffee Room, a Coffee Room for Gentlemen, and first-class Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Carriages and Horses of every description for Stonehenge and other places of interest. Excellent Stabling. Loose Boxes, etc. Posting-Masters to Her Majesty. Tariff on application to H. T. BOWES, Manager. STEWARDS ANGLER. THE PRACTICAL ANGLER, or, The Art of Trout Fishing more particularly applied to Clear Water. Eighth Edition, revised, l2mo. Price 3s. 6d. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 84 SCARBOROUGH SELKIRK SHEFFIELD SKIPTON. SCARBOROUGH (One Hour only from York). THE GRAND HOTEL. THIS is one of the finest and best appointed Hotels in Europe, replete menadewith and all commands modern comforts,magnificent situated Land andat the Sea entrance Views. toFrench the Spa Cuisine. Pro- PurePostal Water and Telegraph from an Office, Artesian &c. WellThe Hotelof its isown. supplied Rooms with exceptionallyfrom 2s. 6d. Trains.Boarding System adopted. The Hotel OmnibusD. DE LEIDI,meets the Manager. Principal Late of (he Grand Hotel, Paris, and the Cosmopolitan, Mice. SELKIRK. COUNTY HOTEL, SELKIRK. TfIRSX-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. Excellent Billiard Room. KodonoX Coach Hotel “Flower and Tibbie of Yarrow" Shiels’, everyleaves Tuesday,Hotel and Thursday, Railway and Station Saturday, at 8.30 in a.in.connec- for Singletion with Fare, “Ettrick 3s., Return, Shepherd” 5s; Coachman’s Coach to andFee—Single, from Moffat, lid., Return,from June Is. tillParties September. often orStation, more 3s.Edinburgh, 6d. each. toParties St. Mary’s can bookand throughback. Every by County description Hotel Coach of Wines, from Brandies,Waverley Trains.and Whiskies . of the finest Brands. Job, Post, and JAMESHunting MERCER,Horses. ’Bus Proprietor. meets all SHEFFIELD. THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL, OTAND1NGStation, has in recentlylarge open been space, extensively adjoining altered Great and Northern redecorated, and M. and S. fitted & L. withRailway Lift Theand everyBilliard other Room, requisite, with two making tables, it onehas ofbeen the fitted most upcomfortable with every Hotels convenience, in the country. regard- lessselected of expense,with great and care, is oneand ofare the of thefinest highest in the quality. Provinces. VJsitors The toWines this haveHotel beenwill nd every comfort arid attention. Hotel Porter meets allJ. C.trains. MEYER, J'roprietress. SKIPTON. THE DEVONSHIRE HOTEL. A^-abhshed>artes ’First-class Family and Commercial Hotel, in the centre of the distance - 4 1 ' visiting “Bolton Abbey” will find this Hotel within an easy Conveyances’* 1/68 ' allcomfort, kinds onsuperior hire. accommodation, and moderate charges combined. BiUiards and Bowling Green. AN 10TEL OMNIBUS MEETS THE TRAINS. ANNA 8. WRIGLEY, Proprietress. SKIPTON SKYE SLIGO STIRLIN G. 85 SKIPTON. BREAK YOUR JOURNEY AND STAY AT THE MIDLAND HOTEL, Opposite the Railway Station,

SLIGACHAN HOTEL, Nearest House to Loch Coruisk. BEAUTIFULLYliving in the Hotelsituated have at the the Privilege foot of ofthe good Coolin Sea-trout Hills. fishing Parties on charge.the river Boatmen,Sligachan; 4s. also per goodday. LochParties and landingSea fishing. at Coruisk Boats can free have of poniesCoruisk, or hy guides sending sent letter to meet or telegram them atthe Camasunary, day previous. or the Hill above POSTING. WM. SHARP, Lessee. SLIGO. VICTORIA HOTEL. J. A. HALL, Proprietor (late Miss Allingham).

STIRLING. EOYAL HOTEL. THIS old-established First-Class Hotel is conveniently situated for minutes’Families, walk Tourists,of the Railway and CommercialStation. Gentlemen, being within three Carriages of every description kept at the Hotel. Omnibus awaits all Trains. A. CAMPBELL, Proprietor. 86 STRATHPEFFER. THE HIGHLAND SULPHUR SPA, STRATHPEFFER, ROSS-SHIRE. These unrivalledWaters are in amongGreat Britainthe strongest in the treatmentin Europe, of and are CHRONIC RHEUMATISM, GOUT, AND DISEASESAND OF THE SKIN, AFFECTIONS OF THE LIVER AND KIDNEYS. Superior Effervescing Chalybeate Spring, UNIQUE IN THIS COUNTRY. SULPHUR BATHS AHD DOUCHES HEATED ON THE MOST APPROVED SYSTEM. EXTENSIVE IMPROVEMENTS AND ALTERATIONS EFFECTED SINCE LAST SEASON. SPLENDID PAVILION FOR BALLS, CONCERTS, ETC. Resident Physician—Dr. FORTESCUE FOX. See Late Dr. MANSON'S Book, 5th Edition. IMPKOVED DRAINAGE AND WATER SUPPLY. THE PRINCIPAL HOTEL AT THE SPA. THE BEN WYVIS Two Minutes' walk from Railway Station and MINERAL WELLS AND BATHS, CONTAINS SPLENDID NEW DRAWING AND DINING ROOMS, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE APARTMENTS {En Suite), BILLIARD AND RECREATION ROOMS, BOWLING AND TENNIS GREENS, Stands in its own grounds and amidst Scenery Unsurpassed in Scotland. NEAR POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. CHARGES MODERATE. POSTING. APPLY-THE MANAGER. STRATHPEFFER. 87 STRATHPEFFER.

NOTE 1 fTlHIS Old Established Hotel occupies the highest situation in Strathpeffer (400 feet above sea level), now considered the most popular Health Resort in the Country, within 5 minutes from the Spa Mineral Wells, Pavilion, Post-Office, &c. It stands within its own Grounds, commands a particularly fine view of the beautiful scenery of the Strath, and is secluded enough to ensure to visitors the privacy and quiet of an ordinary Country Residence. It contains a Billiard Room, Spacious Dining Hall, also Handsome Drawing Room, Conservatories, Library, Luxurious Smoking Room, Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Bathrooms, in the most modern style, while thirty extra Bedrooms have been added this season, &c. The Grounds have been beautifully laid out with Sheltered Walks and Tennis Lawns, &c. The Hotel is well known as a First-Class house, is noted for the Excellence of its Cuisine, and unrivalled for cleanliness and comfort. Omnibus and Boots attend all Trains. Telephone communication hetvjeen Hotel and Strathpeffer Station. VISITORS CONVEYED FREE OF CHARGE TO AND FROM WELLS. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Charges Strictly Moderate. A. WALLACE, Proprietor Telegraphic Address— Wallace, Strathpeffer. 88 8TRATHPEFFER TAUNTON TATNUILT TENBY (see also J). 91). STRATHPEFFER. WAVERLEY HOTEL, STRATHPEFFER. THIS First-Class Hotel is now open for the Season. It is within one minute’s walk from the Station and the Pump-Room. Parties Boarded by the Day or "Week. A. D. WHYTE, Lessee. TAUNTON. CASTLE HOTEL. For FAMILIES and GENTLEMEN. MostComplete centrally situated,Incandescent and replete Electrical vnth every Installation. Home Comfort. FAMILIESjourneys willto and find from this North the most Devon convenient and Cornwall. place forOmnibus breaking to theirmeet all Trains. The above is under the personal managementJOHN . of the Proprietor, A well-appointed Billiard Boom has just been added to this Hotel.

TAYNUILT HOTEL. THIS Hotel is situated near Loch Etive, within two minutes’ walk from the Taynuilt Station on the Callander and Oban Railway. Visitors have the privilege of Salmon and Trout Fishing on the River Awe. JAMES_ . MURRAY, Proprietor._ Post Horses, Carriages, &c. TENBY. ROYAL GATE HOUSE HOTEL. IMMEDIATELY OVERLOOKING THE SEA. Under the Distinguishedand Patronagelords of the of Admiralty.H.B H the Duke of Connaught PENSION FROM TWO & A HALF GUINEAS PER WEEK. TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. Bath Room. Liveky Stables. Billiards. Omnibus to all Trains. Manageress—Miss BRIGHT. TENBY TINTERN TORQUAY TOTLAND BAY. 89 TENBY. THE COBOTJRG HOTEL. UNRIVALLED POSITION. FACING THE SEA. Ladies’ Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms, Hot and Cold Bath Rooms.Special TermsGood forLivery Winter Stables. Season. Tariff—FromOmnibus to Threeall Trains. Guineas per week. JOHN B. HUGHES, Proprietor. TINTERN ABBEY. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, TINTERN. A CHARMING First-Class Hotel, delightfully situated in its own Grounds, directly facing the noble Ruins of the Abbey. Carriages meet aU Trains at Tintern Station. EMMA GARRETT, Proprietress { ^ f^ £™w. THE TORQUAY GRANVILLE MANSIONS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT AND PENSION. LATE THE HYDROPATHIC. rpHIS-1- Visitors ESTABLISHMENT may require. Table is conducted d’hote at with 6.30. a 40view large to give Bedrooms. every home The comfort situation that is Torbay,healthy, overfree fromwhich fogs, there rarely are anyvery snow extensive or frost views, seen. equalIts altitudeto Italian is Scenery.250 feet aboveThe CuisineBilliard-Room is good, and all Reading-Room provisions being supplied supplied with from daily the papers. Home Farms.Torquay Aand spacious Neigh- Thebourhood Establishment in the months is patronised of April, May,by the June, Medical September, Men October,of Torquay are andsimply District, delightful. and is under the careful supervision of two well-qualifiedW. Ladies. BENNET For DAW, prospectus Proprietor. apply TOTLAND BAY, near Alum Bay and Freshwater, Isle of Wight. TOTLAND BAY HOTEL. MAGNIFICENT SEA VIEWS. QOMFORT with Moderate Charges. Billiard Room. Bracing air, excellent Sands and Promenade Pier. Good Boating and Bathing. Apply to Manager. 90 teossachs (see also p. 91).

THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, LOCH KATRINE. R. BLAIR, Proprietor, rpHIS First-Class Hotel is beautifully situated in the midst of the classic scenery of Scott’s “ Lady of the Lake,” and is the ONLY HOTEL in the Trossachs. Parties staying for not less than a week can be boarded on SPECIAL TERMS, excepting from 15th July to 15th Sept. During the season Coaches run from Callander Railway Station to the Trossachs, in connection with all Trains, and in connection with all Steamers on Loch Katrine. These Coaches all stop at this Hotel; giving passengers time to Lunch. Excellent Fishing in Lochs Katrine and Achray. Boats en- gaged at the Hotel, and at the Boathouse Loch Katrine Pier. BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS. Address THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, Loch Katrine, R. BLAIR, Proprietor. By CALLANDER, N.B. TROSSACHS TOTNES TYNDRUM WESTON-SDPER-MARE. 91 TROSSACHS. STRONACHLACHER(HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE.) HOTEL. TAONALDextensive FERGUSON alterations andbegs additionsto intimate to histhat Hotel, he has and lately that completed it will be tionhis constant to Tourists endeavour, and others as heretofore,favouring him to secure with theirevery patronage. comfort andIt atten-is the bestreadiness. Fishing-Station, During the and Season Boats, Coacheswith experienced run to and Boatmen, from Inversnaidare always in connection with SteamersCarriages onand Lochother ConveyancesKatrine and kept Loch for Hire. Lomond. TOTNES. THE SEYMOUR FAMILY HOTEL And Posting House. ON THE BANKS OF THE DART. Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Omnibus meets ail Trains and Steamboats. G. & F. MITCHELL, Proprietors. XYNDRUM. ROYAL HOTEL. JOSEPHof the aboveSTEWART, First-Class of Crianlarich Hotel, which, Hotel, having begs to been intimate built withinthat he the has last taken few a years, lease containsexcellent superiorPublic Roomsaccommodation, and Private having Parlours, large andBilliard lofty Room,Bedrooms, Smoking Baths, Room, etc., withetc. fortableThe whole and house healthful has been resorts beautifully in the furnishedHighlands. anew, First and rate forms Cuisine. one of theTable most d’Hote com- outdoorBreakfasts attractions and Dinners. include Wines,splendid Spirits, Lawn-Tennis and Malt Court, Liquors with netsof best and qualities. all appliances. The FishingSplendid free Salmon of charge Fishing in inLoch River Nabea, Orchy, Loch Fine Dochart,Pools, Beautiful and River Fish. Fillan. Excellent Boats Trout and branches.Boatmen inWithin attendance. three minutes’Parties walk boarded of Railway by week Station. or month. Posting in all its

The Brightest and Healthiest Seaside Place in the West. POPULATION 15,000. 92 YORK WELLS COACHES. YORK. HARKEE/S YORK HOTEL, ST. HELEN’S SQUARE. THIS long-established First-Class Hotel occupies the most central and best Situation in the City, being nearest to the Minster, the Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, and other objects of interest; is within five minutes’ walk of Station and free from noise of Trains. P. MATTHEWS, Proprietor. WELLS, SOMERSET. THE SWAN HOTEL, FACING, AND PRIVATE WALK TO, THE CATHEDRAL. For Tariff of Charges, see the “ Swan Hotel 'Visitors’ Guide to Wells,” price 6d., or to LYNTON, LYNMOUTH, AND BARNSTAPLE. COACHES RAILWAYS. 93 NORTH DEVON. LYNTON AND MINEHEAD. The Well-appointed Fast Four-Horse Coach “LORNA DOONE ” CommencedApril between running Railway for Station,the Season Minehead, on the 30thand andRoyal Bills. Castle Hotel, Lynton. For particularsTHOMAS seeBAKER G. W. Jun.,Railway Proprietor. Time Tables Private Hotel, Lynton, 1888. THE BRAEIHAti, DUNKELD, BUIRSOWRIE, AND GLEfiSHEE COACHES WILL COMMENCE RUNNING ON 1st. JULY, Leaving Braemar at 8 a.m., Dunkeld at 9 a.m., Blairgowrie at 11 a.m., every lawful day. Fifb Arms Hotel, Braemar, April 1888 LONDON & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, WATERLOO STATION, LONDON. The Shortest, Quickest, and most direct Route to the South-West and West of England, EXETER, BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD (“Westward Ho!”), ILPRACOMBE, NORTH and SOUTH DEVON, BUDE vid Holsworthy, TAVISTOCK, LAUNCES- TON, PLYMOUTH, DEVONPORT, WEYMOUTH, SWAN- AGE, CASTLE, BOURNEMOUTH, SOUTHAMP- TON, PORTS MOUTH, STOKES BAY,and ISLE OF WIGHT. FAST EXPRESSES AT ORDINARY FARES, AND FREQUENT FAST TRAINS. CHEAPAll TrainsTOURIST convey AND Third-Class EXCURSION Passengers. TICKETS. GreatThrough Northern, Tickets and inMidland connection Railways. with theRegular London Mail and Steam-Ships, North-Western, vid Southampton,GUERNSEY. toAlso and Fast from Steam-Ships the CHANNEL for Havre, ISLANDS, Rotten, andJERSEY, Paris, andSt. ShipsMalo, are Cherbourg, not surpassed Granville, in Speed or and Accommodation Honfleur. byThe any Company’s Channel Vessels. Steam- TheIsle ofquickest Wight. and best route toCHARLES and from LondonSCOTTER, and PortsmouthGeneral Manager. and the 94 MIDLAND RAILWAY. ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, “Via Settle and Caelisle.” AN IMPROVED SERVICE OF EXPRESS AND FAST TRAINS Passengershas been established between London,between theEdinburgh, Midland andSystem Glasgow and Scotland are conveyed by this inroute. Through BrakeCarriages and of all the the most most improved approved description, modem fittedappliances, with an and efficient Through continuous Guards accompany Automatic in Englandprincipal and trains Stations In charge in Scotland of Passengers’ are available luggage. for OneReturn Calendar Tickets Month. between Stations andLONDON.—A also from Glasgow Morning and EdinburghExpress Train to London, runs from with London a Drawing to Edinburgh Room Saloon and Glasgow, Carriage Expres. 3 places, with SALOON SLEEPINGWEST OF CARRIAGES ENGLAND.—For attached. the convenience of Passengers to and from the West lishedof England to and and from Scotland, Bristol, aBath, New Gloucester,Service of ExpressCheltenham, Passenger Worcester, Trains and has Birmingham, been estab- in connectionDINING ARRANGEMENTS.—The with the Through Service Up between and Down London Day and Express Edinburgh Trains and stop Glasgow. half-an- havinghourat Normantonbeen provided. to enable Table Passengers d'Hote of to five dine, Courses a spacious with andDessert, comfortable 2s. 6d. each—no Dining Room fees. LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER. s been established between London and by this rc te pass through the mostin (viapicturesque Dekby andportion Matlock). of the PeakPassengers of Derbyshire travelling and theDRAWING Vale of Matlock. ROOM SALOON CARRIAGES are attached to the Day Express Trains Passengersand SLEEPING holding SALOON First-Class CARRIAGES Tickets are allowedto the Night to ride Express in the Drawing trains byRoom this Saloons route. attachedSaloons a tosmall the extraDay chargeExpress is Trainsmade inwithout addition extra to thepayment. First ClassFor fares.Berths ii LondonA DINING (St. Pancras) SALOON at 5 CARRIAGEp.m. for Manchester is also and attached Liverpool; to the and Express Manchester Trains (Central) leaving atSaloon 5 p.m. Carriages for London. from ManchesterPassengers atleaving Derby. Liverpool No extra at charge 4.40 p.m.beyond can thejoin sum the payable Dining foror OMNIBUSES.—SmaZimethe DinnerJslminer is made.maae. Tableiao(eOmnibuses,

GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. WEEKLY CIRCULAR TOUR. rpHE Favourite Steamer DUNARA CASTLE se

application to Street, Glasgow. CIRCULAR TOURS. GLASGOW 85 THE OUTER HEBRIDES.

JOHN M'CALLUM & CO., 12 A STEAMERS. 105 DOBLIN & GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY. ster,The Company’s Lord Clyde, splendid Lord Saloon Gough, and theSteamships—Ddke new Screw Steamer of Argyll, General Ddke Gordon, of Lein- or andother from Steamers, Glasgow are intended& Dublin, to calling Sail, unless at Greenock. prevented by any unforeseen occurrence, to SAILINGS AS PER MONTHLY BILLS.

HENRY LAMONT, 93 Hope Street, adjoining Central Station, and A. TAYLOR, Dublin, Secretary.Broomielaw, Glasgow.B. MANN, Dublin, General Manager. LOCH LOMOND SALOON(COMMENCING steamers. 1st JUNE.) Loch Lomond.—Leave Balloch Pier, daily about 9 a.m., 10.40 A.M., 12.30 p.m., and 5 p.m., and on Saturdays only at 3.10 p.m. Head of Loch on Mondays at 6.15 a.m.; daily (except Monday) at 8.25 a.m.; daily at 10.55 a.m., 1.20, and 4.10 p.m. and on Saturdays only at 6.10 p.m. THOMAS MeLEAN, Manager, 99 Main Street, Alexandria, N.B. 106 STEAMERS.

LEITH AND LONDON. THE LONDON & EDINBURGH SHIPPING COMPANY’S SPLENDID FAST-SAILING SCREW-STEAMSHIPS METEOR, IONA, MALVINA, MARMION, MORNA, OR OTHER OF(Lighted THE byCOMPANY’S Electricity), STEAMERS Sail from Victoria Dock, Leith, every Wednesday, Friday, and Satur- day afternoon ; and from Hermitage Steam Wharf, London, every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday morning. For Rates of Freight and Fares, apply to Thomas Aitken, 8 & 9 Commercial Street, Leith. ABERDEEN AND LONDON. THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIGATION CO.'S STEAMSHIPS BAN-RIGH,will CITY be despatched OF LONDON, (weather, oretc., CITY permitting)— OF ABERDEEN, FromFrom LONDON, ABERDEEN, Aberdeen 87 WaterlooWharf, Limehouse, Quay, every every Wednesday Wednesday and and Saturday. Satunlay. onThe Deck—Electric Steamers are Light fitted throughout—Time up in First-Class style—Ladies’on Passage 36 hours.Saloon, and Smoking Room forThe the Company’s purpose ofsteam conveying tender ‘ PassengersIch Dien ’ attends to the theTemple Steamers Pier, on Thames their arrival Embankment; in London passengersshe also leaves only tothat the Pier Aberdeen one hour Steamers before free the ofadvertised charge. Friendstimes of of passengerssailing, conveying wishing Company’sto accompany Agent. them Portersto the Steamers, will be in may attendance do so on to gettingcarry the written Luggage permission on board. from the Fares—PrivatePrivate CabinsCabins, accommodating if occupied by fewerfour passengers than four passengers.... . £6.£5. SingleReturn Tickets—1st Tickets—available Cabin, SOs.;for six 2dmonths—45s. Cabin, 15s.; and Children 25s.; Children,under 14 years,25s. and 15s. 15s. and 10s. Berths securedA Stewardess and further carried information in both Firstobtained and Secondon application Cabins. to John A. atClinkskill, 102 Queen Agent,Victoria The Street, Aberdeen E.C., LondonSteam Navigation: or to Co.’s Wharf, Limehouse; and CHARLES Manager,SHEPHERD, Aberdeen. STEAMERS. 107 TO TOURISTS. LEITH AND ABERDEEN TO NORWAY. Full particulars (and Hand-Book, 3d.) of the Tourist Service by the Splendid New Steamships St. Sunniya and St. Rogn- vat/T) to the West Coasts and Fiords of Norway may be obtained at the Offices mentioned below. STEAM FROM LEITH TO ABERDEEN, CAITHNESS, ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. The North of Scotland and Orkney and Shetland Steam Navigation Company’s Royal Mail Steamships “Sr. Magnus,” “St. Nicholas,” “St. Clair,” and “Queen,” sail from Albert Dock, Leith, to Aberdeen .... Daily (except Sunday). Caithness .... Twice a week. Orkney and Shetland . Three times a week. Bills of Sailings, Plans of Cabins, Maps of Routes, Guide Books, etc., to be had on application to Charles Merrylees, Manager, Aberdeen ; or George Hourston, Agent, 64 Constitution Clicit, Leith, and 18 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh. Berths secured at 18 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh. GRANTON TO FAROE ISLES AND ICELAND, Theunder royal during Danish 1888 mail steamers “laura” and “thyra," wui si Granton to Faroe16th July, and 18th Iceland.—23d Aug., 10th* Sept., April, 4th 9th* Oct, May, 12th 6thNov. June, 4th* July Iceland to Faroe27th July, and 7th Granton.—14thSept, 2nd* Oct, 19thMay, Oct, 2nd* 29th*June, Nov.26th June, 29th* July, For Freight* These or Voyages Passage the apply Steamers to sail round Iceland, calling at the Chief Ports. AgentsGEO. for V. theTURNBULL United Steamship & CO., Company Leith and of Copenhagen.Granton, 108 STEAMERS MISCELLANEOUS. STEAM BETWEEN SCOTLAND AND ICELAND. TheNOTICE LEITH TO andTOURISTS, ICELAND ANGLERS, Steam Shipping & SPORTSMEN. Companies’ (unlessSteamers prevented are intended by unforeseento leave LEITH circumstances) for ICELAND fort- Tourists, Anglers, and Sportsmennightly am excellent during opportunity the Summer of visitingand Autumn, that interesting affording Country,First itsCabin, Geysers, £5 ; BurningReturn Mountains,Ticket (available famous Salmonfor the Rivers,Season), Reindeer £8. Separate Grounds, State &c. Is.Rooms 2d.), mayand furtherbe had informationby special agreement.apply to For Sailing R.Bills, & D.(Guide SLIMON, Books, Leith.5s. and TO HER MAJESTY. ALFRED BURGOINE, Yacht, Steam Launch, Boat, and Builder, High Street, Kingston-on-Thames, and Hampton Wick. GOLD AND BRONZE MEDALS, FISHERIES, 1883. SILVERGOLD MEDAL,MEDAL, EDINBURGH,INVENTIONS, 1886. 1885. GOLDSILVER MEDAL, MEDAL, GLASGOW, HAVRE, 1886-7.1887. P. & J. H AG G A R T, ManufactureBreadalbane HOME-GROWN Mills andWOOL Keltney into their Burn well-known Mills, Aberfeldy,make of BREADALBANE N.B., MIXTURES,DEER-STALKING suitable and for other Moor TWEEDS or Loch, inand stylish every-day checks, wear. and aThey variety also of manufacture HEATHER GenuineLADIES’ Scotch COSTUME Blankets TWEEDS, in Highland in Saxony and orCheviot Home ,Wools. Bedcovers,Winceys, PetticoatCrumbcloths Stuffs, or Sheeting.Druggets (72Plaiding. in. wide), The in correct plain graysets ofor thefancy leading checks, Clan made Tartans up tofor any Kilting size orrequired. Ladies’ Clans.Dresses, Reversible in Cheviot Wraps. and Saxony Socks Wools. and Knickerbocker Plaids. Travelling Hose, hand-knitted,Wraps in Tweed-Patterns, to size; Home- or Tweeds.spun Stocking Specimens Yams inof marls,Manufacture mixtures, on andExhibit native at dyes.International Caps and Exhibition, Hats of Home-spun Glasgow, No.on application. 940, Court 12. Any length cut. Suit or Dress lengths by Parcels Post. Patterns By Special Royal Appointment. SPEARMAN’S SERGES AND FANCY WEAVINGS. PURE WOOL ONLY. FOE ALL SEASONS OF THE YEAR. PLAIN COLOURS,For Ladies’ CHECKS, Wear AND... MIXTURES. Is. 6d.STRONG! to 4s. 6d. USEFUL!the yard. DURABLE! For OilGentlemen's Receipt of Instructions Suits' . Samples. 2s. willlid. be to sent 10s. Post 6d. Free.the yard. N.B.—Any length cut andONLY carriage ADDRESS—NO paid to principal AGENTS: stations in the , SPEARMAN.PLYMOUTH. SPEARMAN. MISCELLANEOUS. 109 yjVl HOT SUN tot ^rq? and dust should frequently be soothed by the applicationie of ‘Rowlands’ rcalgdor which is a delightfully soothing and emollient preparation for the skin and tan, freckles, roughnessREMOVES and redness of theSUNBURN, skin, soothes insect stings, irritation producesand all other a beautifully cutaneous fair affections, and renders the skin soft, smooth and delicate, and DELICATE COMPLEXION. half-sizedLadies cannot bottles do without2f ,'1 it who value their complexion. Bottles 4s. 6d. and 8s. Gd.; becomingROWLANDS’ dry during summer.MACASSAR Asfi anywhere OIL fo:I FRY’S COCOA.

TRADE MARK. FRY’SPrepared by PUREa new and special CONCENTRATED scientific process, securing extreme ,COCOA and Sib C. A. Cameron,developing M.D., President the finest of |flavourW. H. of theB. Stanley,Cocoa. M.D.—‘ I consider the—‘ IRoyal have neverCollege tasted of Surgeons, Cocoa that Ireland, I like etc. so Concentrated,it a very rich delicious and therefore Cocoa. Iteconomical is highly well,substitute and Ifor strongly tea fi»r youngrecommend persons.’ it as a I forchildren,as a family food. and givesIt is the no troublejndrink par excellencemaking.’ 36 PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED TO THE FIRM. 110 MISCELLANEOUS. By Appointment to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. ALLENS PORTMANTEAUS AND STRONG DRESS BASKETS, NEW37 ILLUSTRATED. WEST CATALOGUE STRAND,OF RE6ISTERED AND PATENTED LONDON. ARTICLES, POST FREE. MISCELLANEOUS. Ill

MOURNING FOR FAMILIES.

Messrs. JAY'S experienced DRESSMAKERSand travelMILLINERS to any part of the free Kingdom,of expense to Theypurchasers. take with them and millinery,dresses besides patternsat Is. perof yardMaterials, and all markedupwards, in plain figures, and atpurchased the same at price the as if WarehouseReasonable inestimates Regent areSt. Householdalso given Mourning, for at a orgreat small saving families. to large Funerals conducted at stated charges in London or Country. REGENT STREET, LONDON. 112 MISCELLANEOUS. 2^ TO ANGLERS. GILES LITTLE & CO. Manufacturers of Superior Salmon and Trout Rods, Reels, Lines, Artificial Baits, etc. Little's Far-Famed Split Cane Salmon and Trout Rods, Flics Parts of for all the World. WALKING STICK FLY-RODS, A SPECIALITY. Little’sinner sleeves21s. Improvedetc., a marvel Waterproof of cheapness. Angler’s Sample Jacket,of material ventilated free. New Illustrated Catalogue forwarded free to any address. GILES LITTLE & CO. By special appointment{late) Prince to T.R.H.Consort, the H.I.M. Prince {late) and Napolpon Princess ofIII. Wales, H.R.H. Wholesale, Retail, and Export. 63 HAYMARKET, LONDON, S.W. TO ANGLING TOURISTS. THE HIGHEST CLASS OF

Manufactured for the SALMON, TROUT, AND GRAYLING FISHER. W. J. CUMMINS, Fishing Tackle Manufactory, BISHOP AUCKLAND (), i The Finest andsent most to any complete Address Angling free of Guidecharge. and Catalogue MISCELLANEOUS. 113 THE NORTH BRITISH RUBBER COMPANY (LIMITED), Indiarubber & Waterproof Manufacturers, 106 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH, AND 106 BUCHANAN ST., GLASGOW. Large Stock to select from, and being bona-fide Manufacturers, their products can be warranted first quality. Coats and Capes. WATERPROOF Walking Coats. Driving Coats. WATERPROOF Fishing Coats. WATERPROOF Shooting Coats. Fishing Trousers. WATERPROOF Fishing Stockings. Brogues. WATERPROOF Gaiters. WATERPROOF Sea Boots. PRICES STRICTLY MODERATE. Note Addresses— EDINBURGH: 106 PRINCES ST. (2nd shop west from Arcade) Works—Castle Mills. GLASGOW: 106 BUCHANAN STREET. 114 MISCELLANEOUS.

Dr. Browne coined the word Chlorodyne wherewith to j designate his discovery, consequently to apply the word j to other compounds is as dishonest as it is absurd. MISCELLANEOUS. 115 RECENTLY PUBLISHED. THE TARTANS OF THE CLANS OF SCOTLAND. Portrait in colours of His RoyalCONTENTS. Highness The Duke oe Rothesay in Highland ofDress each (Evening Clan, by Costume),James Grant, by J. Author B. M‘Donald, of The Bomance R.S.A. ofPreface. War, Ac. HistoricalArmorial BearingsAccount ofand the Marches Chief ofof eachthe Clans. Clan, illuminatedMap of the inHighlands Gold and of Colours.Scotland dividedThe Badges, into Clans. War-Cries, LIST OF TARTANSMacIntyre. REPRESENTED. Menzies. Cameron, ErrachtLochieh MacEenzie. Murray,Monro. Athole. Campbell, Argyll.Breadal- MacAlister. MacLachlan.MacKinnon. Murray,dine. Tullibar- Oampbell, Cawdor. MacDonald.MacAulay. MacLaren.MacLean of Duart. RobOgilvie. Roy. Chisholm.Campbell, Loudoun. MacDonald,ranald. Clan- Maclaine of Loch- Ross.Robertson. Colquhoun.Clergy. MacDonald,garry. Glen- MacLeod.MacNab. Sinclair. Drummond.Cumin. MacDonald, Slate.Staffs. MacNeil.MacNaughton. Stewart, Hunting.Dress. Farquharson.Fergusson. MacDuff.MacDougal. MacPherson,MacPherson. Hunt- Stewart, Old.Prince Fraser.Forbes. MacGillivray.MacFarlane. MacQuarrie. Stewart, Royal. Graham.Gordon. Macintosh.MacGregor. Malcolm.MacRae. CONDITIONSMacintosh, Chief. OF Matheson.PUBLICATION. landThe illuminated Work, in Imperialin metals Quarto, and colours. is Full-Bound Of this Cloth, issue having there theare Royal900 copies, Arms andof Scot- the Ericea this £2 edition : 2s. An the Edition Tartans de are Luxe mounted is published on tinted in Imperial Boards Folio,and varnished limited to; the100 volumecopies. Theis Full-Bound price is £8:8s. Morocco, Gilt Each copyBeviews. is numbered and signed by the Publishers. withal“Sumptuous of sound inhistorical outward information, appearance, atfinished once curious,with exquisite interesting, taste and inside, accurate, and full no such work concerning the ‘ Garb of Old Gaul ’ has ever been issued ata all approachingenterprising truth, a splendid volun press.”—Obanquisitely finished Times. in if every possible detail, that has e------be desired in the matter either ofn the engraveddelicacy displayedand coloured in the plates illustrations, or the accompanying and the great letterpress. taste and effectiveness The skill, beauty,of the large and majority“ Preciseness of the patterns in such can a matterbe freely is, commended.”—Theof course, all important, Scotsman. and the great merit of patternsMessrs. Johnston’sand colours volumeof the historicalwill consist Tartans in fixing, of Scotland, in a permanentfor the use form, of present the exact and future“ Nothing generations.”—TA« can excel the Bookseller. accuracy and beauty with which the cloth, both in colour byand a texture,few notes has on been the imitated clan to whichin these the plates. particular Each tartanplate, moreover,appertains."—Chambers's is accompanied Journal.EDINBURGH: W.EDINA & A. K.WORKS, JOHNSTON, EASTER ROAD, and LONDON: 5 16WHITE SOUTH HART ST. ANDREWSTREET, WARWICKSTREET. LANE, E.C. 116 MISCELLANEOUS. IMPORTANT TO TOURISTS. A Painless Cure for CornsA byNEW a few DISCOVERT. Applications, and at a small Cost.

,n safely state that this is the surest remedy yet discovered for relief,- ^and protects— - theis cornof the from feet. friction, When it used dries to immediately, the diseased and part, does it gives not prevent speedy for a momentSold inthe Bottles use of at the Is. stocking.l£d. each, {Post free for 14 stamps) by the Proprietors. HENRY 3THORBURN NEWGATE STREET, & BISHOPSON, AUCKLAND.Family Chemists, CAUTION.—ItIf you are troubled, having come procure to the a knowledge Bottle at ofonce, the Proprietorsand save yourthat unscrupulous temper. the i .re1 Thorburn’s imitatingthisPrepai'ation, Corn Paint ’’ are intendingon each label, purchasers and a cut would similar do well to thetoseethat above. WM. WOOLLAMSORIGINAL MAKERS, & CO., NON-ABSENICAL WALL-PAPERS. m w i Show Rooms:London, 110 High W. Street,(Sole Address.) Manchester Square, Of all Decorators.Health. SeventeenExhibition, Medals, and Edinburgh. including Gold Medals, I.B.—Especially adapted to Mansions, Institutions, and Hotels. THE MUSHET IRONWORKS. HEAD OFFICES . DALKEITH, MIDLOTHIAN. EdinburghWorks ... Warehouse .At. 7 St. Dalkeith Giles’ Street. and Granton. Makers of the celebrated “MIDLOTHIAN” CONVERTIBLEMANTEL OPEN ANDPIECES, CLOSE OVER-MANTELS. FIRE KITCHEN RANGE. TileRailings, and Register Entrance Grates suitable Gates, for Verandahs, all classes of &c., buildings. &c. ALL SUITABLE FOR EXPORT TRADE. MISCELLANEOUS. 117

COX & YEMAN, BILLIARD TABLE MAKERS, 184 BROMPTON ROAD, LONDON, S.W. HIGHEST AWARD INTERNATIONAL INVENTIONS EXHIBITION 1885. MEDAL, EDINBURGH EXHIBITION. CONTRACTORS TO

Mar ©fgce anU &tmuraIt|L BY APPOINTMENT TO H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, K.G., March 1886. PATRONISED BY H.M. THE KINO OF SIAM, H.M. THE KINO OF SAXONY, AND ALL THE CHAMPION PLAYERS FOR 29 YEARS. TABLES AND LAMPS Made expressly for India and Extreme Climates. REGIMENTS AND MESSES SUPPLIED. WORKMANSHIP AND BEST GOODS GUARANTEED. SOLE MAKERS TO JOHN ROBERTS, JUNIOR, CHAMPION OF THE WORLD. 118 MISCELLANEOUS INSURANCE. VALENTINE & SON’S FHOTOGRAFHS OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, WALES, AND NORWAY, Comprising over 20,000 Views of the finest Scenery and Places of Interest May be had in all styles from the Principal Dealers and Agents throughout the World. MANUFACTURERS OF LANTERN SLIDES. Wholesale and for Export ONLY at WORKS—152 & 154 PERTH ROAD, DUNDEE. Lancashire Insurance Company, MANCHESTER. HEAD133 WESTOFFICE GEORGE FORSTREET, SCOTLAND: GLASGOW.

Alex. Crum, Esq., Thomlie- TheLevernholm, Hon. Sir JamesLord King,Provost of Hugh Brown, Esq., ... Andrewverness. Dougall, Esq., In- Sirof KennethGlasgow. J. Matheson, D.and S. Cargill,Ceylon. Esq., Glasgow JamesWm. Forbes,Esq., Keyden, Esq., ofMedwyn. Glasgow. AlexanderBt., of Ardross Ross, and Esq., Lochalsh. Inver- Henry Cowan, Esq., HiUhead.Resident Richard Secretary, Kidston, CHARLES Esq., Glasg.STEWART. EdinburghResident Office: 12 Secretary, YORK BUILDINGS,Frederic J. Hallows. QUEEN STREET. InvemessOffice:Resident Secretary, ACADEMY C. C. Ballingali, STREET. IVFITAIj —THREE MILLIONS STERLING-. Annual Income upwards of £800,000. INSURANCE. 119 Commercial Union Assurance Company, SLimiteti. FIRE—LIFE—MARINE. Capital fully Subscribed £2,500,000 LifeOther Fund Funds in Special. . Trust. for. Life. Policyholders. . . £1,300,000£1,070,000 TOTAL INVESTED FUNDS, TWO AND A HALF MILLIONS. Total Net Annual Income £1,160,000 WESTHEAD END OFFICE:—19 OFFICE: —8& 20 PALL CORNHILL, MALL, LONDON,LONDON, E.C.8.W. HOME BRANCHES:—Manchester,Birmingham, Norwich, Bristol, Liverpool, Dublin, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Edinburgh, and Leeds,Glasgow. Nottingham,

Secretary—Geo. Lyon Bennett. Prospectusesany and of the all Company’sinformation Offices needful or for Agencies effecting throughout Assurances the may World. be obtained at FIRE DEPARTMENT. UndoubtedManager—E. Security Roger guaranteed Owen. by the fullyAssistant subscribed Manager—Geo. Capital and C. large Morant. invested Moderatefunds andRates income. of Premium, Special terms for long period insurances. Rates quoted Claimsand liberallySurveys andmade promptly free of charge. settled. LIFE DEPARTMENT. The Life Funds are investedActuary—E. in the names of Young, Special B.A. Trustees as Security for Claims otheron this large Branch, funds audof the Life Company. Policyholders possess, in addition, the Security of the Four-Fifthsof Participating of the Entire Policies. Life At Profits the last are division every five the years Cash distributed Return to amongPolicyholders holders The wasAssured the large are undersum of no Twenty-five liability in per respect cent ofon thethe engagementspremiums paid of thein the Company. five years. The SettlementExpenses toof a Management,moderate percentage exclusive on theof Premiumcommission, income. are limited by Deed of ClaimsLiberal are Surrender paid immediately Values are on guaranteed,proof of death and and the title. guarantee is endorsed upon the MarriedPolicies Women’s themselves. Property Act (1882)—Policies are issued to husbands for the duty,benefit or of legal their assistance, wives and achildren, Family thusSettlement, creating, which without creditors trouble, cannot expense, touch. stamp NewNaval, Policies or Seafaringfor Life persons)and Endowment are, after Assurancesthree years, (notexempt on fromthe lives extra of premiums Military, beenfor foreign abroad. residence, travel, and occupation if the Assured is thirty, and has not MARINE DEPARTMENT. Rates for Marine Risks on Underwriter—J.application. Carr Saunders. steamers. “ANCHOR LINE.’’ AMERICA, INDIA^AND MEDITERRANEAN. GLASGOW and NEW YORK. Every THURSDAY. S.S. Anchoria, 4167 Tons, j S.S. Circassia, 4272 Tons. J S.S/Devonia, 45 NEW YORK TO GLASGOW, Every SATURDAY. Fares to New York, Boston, or Philadelphia—Saloon, £9 : 9s. and upwards; SecondSpecial Cabin. Terms£6 : 6s.; to SteerageTourists andat Reduced Parties. Rates. UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS. LIVERPOOL AND NEWSeason YORK 1888. EXPRESS SERVICE, The “AnchorPower, Line” carryingSteamship the CITY British OF andROME, American 8144 Tons, Mails. 12,000 Horse-

MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE.

GLASGOW AND LIVERPOOL TO BOMBAY AND CALCUTTA,

BLACK’S GUIDE-BOOKS Alton Towers and Dovedale, Is Belfast and Giant’s Causeway, Is Brighton, Is Buxton, Is Channel Islands (, Guernsey, Alderney), 3s 6d Cheltenham and Bath, Is Cornwall (and Scilly Isles), 2s 6d Derbyshire (Buxton, Matlock, Chatsworth), 2s 6d Devonshire (Torquay, Plymouth, Exeter), 2s 6d Dorsetshire (, Weymouth, &c.), Is 6d Dublin and Wicklow, Is Edinburgh, 6d England (with Plans of Towns), 10s 6d English Lakes (Flintoft’s& Foster’s Illustrations), 3s 6d Cheap Edition, Is Galway, Connemara, and the Shannon, Is Glasgow and Environs, Is Gloucestershire, 2s 6d Guernsey (St. Peter Port, &C.), Is Black’s Guide-Books—continued. Hampshire (Bournemouth, Portsmouth, &c.) 2s 6d Harrogate, Is Hereford and Monmouth, 2s 6d Ireland, 5s Isle of Man, 2s 6d Isle of Wight, Is 0d Jersey (St. Helier’s, &c.), Is Kent (Dover, Kamsgate, Margate), 3s 0d Killarney Lakes, Is Leamington and Environs, Is Leicester and Rutland, 2s 0d Liverpool and Birkenhead (with Environs), Is London and Environs, 3s 0d Manchester and Salford, Is Moffat Spa (Dumfriesshire), Is Nottinghamshire, 3s 0d Scarborough and Whitby, Is Scotland (Twenty-seventh Edition), 8s 0d Scotland, Shilling Edition, Is Surrey, 2s 0d Sussex (Brighton, Hastings, Eastbourne), 2s 0d Trosachs and Loch Lomond, Is Wales (complete in 1 vol.), 5s I Do. North, 3s 0d Do. South, 2s 0d Do. Shilling Edition, Is Warwickshire (Birm., Leamington, Stratford), 2s 0d Where shall we Go ? (Watering-Places) 2s 0d; cloth 3s Yorkshire (with Map), 5s