Fabric R Equirements

Key West Tank

Fabric R equirements:

58” width fabric **Additional fabric may be required to match stripes or one way designs.

Recommended Fabrics and Notions: Fabric - (Stretch fabric with at least 35% stretch) Cotton Lycra, Jersey, Cotton Interlock, Scuba, Liver- pool, Poly Blends, Rayon Spandex, Light/Medium-Thick Knits. (Pre-wash your fabric).

Binding fabric must be at least 50% stretch with good recovery.

Size Chart and Finished Measurements:

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 2 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 3 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Stretch Gauge:

Tips for Sewing with Knits: • Use a ball point needle or jersey needle in your serger or sewing machine.

• If you’re not using a serger, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. It will look like this:

• If your sewing machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, use the zigzag stitch and lower the width to 1 mm.

• To allow for a greater amount of stretch on your stitch, lower your tension by one number; if you usually have your tension set at a 5, lower it to a 4.

• When sewing with knits it is important to not stretch the fabric as you sew. If you’re experiencing wavy seams, try adjusting the your presser foot to a lighter pressure.

• When using a serger, set your differential feed to 1.5 with a stitch length of 2.5 for medium weight knits, 1.0 with a 2.0 stitch length for light weight knits and 2.0 with a 3.0 stitch length for thick knits. (All sergers are different, use this as a guide- line.)

• For knits that roll at the edge, press with starch.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine for greater stretch and tunneling issues from a double needle. This also works well with a straight stitch for top-stitching, not hemming.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the upper looper of your serger for fabrics with a great amount of stretch.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 4 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Printing Instructions: To print the pattern, make sure page scaling is set to none and landscape is selected. Print off the page with the 2” test box (page 19) and adjust settings as needed to match size. Print off the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern together with the numbers in sequence to make this:

Leave page numbers, text, and paper size selected.

When taping the no trim pages together, each page will have a border on the bottom and right side. Overlap the adjoining pages to these bor- ders. There will be a small gap that won’t print.

Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain. The grain will be the length of your fabric.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 5 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Cutting the Tank: Tank: • Cut 1 Front piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Back piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Pocket (Optional). • Cut 1 Neck Binding on the Fold. • Cut 2 Arm Binding pieces on the fold (standard or racer back, clean finish or bands).

Crop Top: • Cut 1 Front piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Back piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Pocket (Optional). • Cut 1 Neck Binding on the Fold. • Cut 2 Arm Binding pieces on the fold (standard or racer back, clean finish or bands).

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 6 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Pocket: Seam Allowance is 3/8” unless otherwise stated.

• Take the Pocket piece and fold the top of the pocket under 3/4” and edge stitch in place.

• Now fold the bottom and sides under 3/8”. Press.

• Using the pocket placement guide on the pattern piece, pin the pocket to the front of the bodice. Edge stitch in place along the sides and bottom.

Sewing the Tank: • Place the Front and Back tank pieces right sides together, aligned at the shoulders. Stitch the shoulders in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 7 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Sewing the Bands: • Take the Neck Binding piece and place it right sides together lengthwise. Sew the ends together.

• Now fold the bands together lengthwise, right sides out and mark the center.

• Place the binding around the neck of the right side of the shirt, raw edges together. Match the center front and the center back of the shirt with the center front and back neckline. Stretch the binding to fit and stitch in place.

• (Optional) Press the seam allowance away from the neckline and top stitch in place.

• Place the bodices right sides together, align the sides and stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 8 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Bands Continued: • Take the Arm Binding piece and place it right sides together lengthwise. Sew the ends together.

• Now fold the bands together lengthwise, right sides out.

• Place the binding around the arm- hole of the right side of the shirt, raw edges together. Match the binding seam with the armpit seam. Stretch the binding to fit and stitch in place.

• (Optional) Press the seam allowance towards the inside of the tank and top stitch in place.

• Repeat with the other side.

Clean Finish Binding: • Take the Neck Binding piece and place it right sides together lengthwise. Sew the ends together.

• Now fold the bands together lengthwise, right sides out and mark the center.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 9 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Clean Finish Binding Continued: • Place the binding around the neck of the right side of the shirt, raw edges together. Match the center front and the center back of the shirt with the center front and back neckline. Stretch the binding to fit and stitch in place.

• Fold the binding under to the wrong side of the shirt. Press and edge stitch in place. (If all the lay- ers end up being really thick, trim the seam allowance to 1/8” before folding under.)

• Take the Arm Binding piece and place it right sides together lengthwise. Sew the ends together.

• Now fold the bands together lengthwise, right sides out.

• Place the binding around the arm- hole of the right side of the shirt, raw edges together. Match the binding seam with the armpit seam. Stretch the binding to fit and stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 10 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 • Fold the binding under to the wrong side of the shirt. Press and edge stitch in place. (If all the lay- ers end up being really thick, trim the seam allowance to 1/8” before folding under.

• Repeat with the other side. Hemming: • Fold the bottom of the tank under 1/2” and edge stitch in place.

And you’re done! Thank you for purchasing my pattern. If you have any questions email me at [email protected]

Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 11 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 Glossary: • Backstitch: To stitch in reverse; usually over the beginning and end of a seam to prevent the stitches from becoming loose and fabric pulling apart.

• Baste: To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily during construction and fitting.

• Bias: A line diagonal to the grain of a fabric; a line at a 45 degree angle to the selvage often uti- lized in the cutng of garments for smoother fittt.

• Clipping: A technique that involves cutng slits into the seam allowance of outward curves to permit the edges of the seam to spread and lie smooth. Take great care not to cut into the seam stitching.

• Dart: A triangular shape sewn onto a flat piece of fabric, allowing the fabric to conform to the contours of the body.

• Edge stitch: Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim, or outer edge. It secures seam allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and supports the fabric.

• Fabric Stretch Gauge: The guide printed on the back of the pattern envelope to gauge the appro- priate fabric stretch required for the garment design to fittt properly.

• Fold: The edge formed by doubling the fabric when the selvage edges meet or are parallel.

• Gathering: A long running stitch that is used to pull fabric together to create a smaller surface area of fabric. Applications of the gathering stitch can be found at the waistline, cuffs, yoke, and in the construction of ruffles.

• Hem: A border of a cloth article doubled back and stitched down

• Right Side: The outside or topside of fabric; it is usually softer or smoother.

• Seam Allowance: The amount of fabric between the stitching or seam line and the fabric edge.

• Top stitch: Machine stitches done from the right side of a garment for either a decorative effect or for functional reasons, or sometimes for both at the same time. Top stitching gives a garment a more tailored look.

• Under stitching: A line of straight stitching, either by hand or machine, applied along certain seam lines such as neckline facing seams. Its purpose is to keep the facing and seam allowances laying flat in a particular direction.

• Wrong side: Usually the inside of a garment or the backside of fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Pocket Cutting Guide Binding Sewing Tips Bands Hemming Main Pg. 12 Girls Key West Tank © New Horizons Designs 2016 16

13 12

8 2016 Designs Horizons New by Tank West Key © Girls

6 5T © Girls Key West Tank by New Horizons Designs 2016 5T

6 16

7 12

10 8 14 8

10 7

5T 12 4T 3T 18-24m 2T

14 12-18m

Grain Line 16

Racer Back Arm Band Clean Finish Binding Cut 2onFold Binding Racerback Arm Girls KeyWestTank

3/4”Hem SeamAllowance 3/8” Cut 1(Optional) Pocket Girls KeyWestTank

3/8” Seam Allowance3/8” 18-24m Grain Line 12-18m 2T 3T 4T 5T 6 7 8 10 Place on Fold 12 14 16 7

6 5T

5T 4T

1/2” Hem 1/2”

Tank Cut Line Cut Tank 3T 2T

18-24m 12-18m

18-24m

12-18m

1/2” Hem 1/2”

15Line Cut Top Crop

4T 3T

2016 Designs Horizons New by Tank West Key © Girls 2T

Grain Line

18-24m 12-18m

Place on Fold Place

6 5T

16 4T 14 12 10 8 7 6 5T 4T 3T 2T 18-24m

12-18m

8 7

6 16 5T 2016 Designs Horizons New by Tank West Key © Girls 2T

Grain Line

18-24m

12-18m

Racer Back Racer

Cut here for here Cut

Armholes

Standard Standard

Cut here for for here Cut Shorten/Lengthen Here Shorten/Lengthen

Place on Fold Place

3/8” Seam Allowance Seam 3/8”

Cut 1 on Fold on 1 Cut Back Bodice Back Girls Key West Tank 17West Key Girls

10 PlaceFold on Pocket Placement

Shorten/Lengthen Here

Girls Key West Tank 12-18m Front Bodice

18-24m Cut 1 on Fold

Grain Line Grain 3/8” Seam Allowance 2T

4T 18 Crop Top Cut Line 1/2” Hem 5T

12-18m

18-24m

14 16 4T

2”194cm 7

12 12-18m

12-18m 18-24m

18-24m 2T

Tank Cut Line 1/2” Hem 3T

3T 4T

7 8

10 20

5T 21 4T 3T 2T 18-24m

12-18m

Grain Line Cut 2onFold StandardBinding Arm Girls KeyWestTank

3/8” Seam Allowance3/8” 16

StandardBand Arm Clean Finish Binding

14 12

Place on Fold Place on Fold on Place Cut 1on Fold Neck Binding Girls KeyWestTank 16

12 10

7 6

18-24m

12-18mLine Grain

Neck Band Neck

Clean Finish Binding Finish Clean 3/8” 3/8” Allowance Seam

Cut 1 on Fold Cut

Neck Binding Neck Girls Key West Tank Girls Key West