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The Direction of Stretch Knit Fabrics Stretch Horizontally and Vertically, So That Presents Challenges When You’Re Set to Sew

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The Direction of Stretch Knit Fabrics Stretch Horizontally and Vertically, So That Presents Challenges When You’Re Set to Sew Circle 4 on Free Info Card or visit www.stitches.com/freeinfo Info Card 4 on Free Circle technically speaking : learn to stitch on difficult fabrics By Deborah Jones The Direction of Stretch Knit fabrics stretch horizontally and vertically, so that presents challenges when you’re set to sew. Learn how to make that stretch work for you. stitches.com/deborah efore you even start embroidery on a stretchy mate- In the companion video to “Technically Speaking,” rial, you need to see which direction it stretches. This Deborah Jones shows will help you determine your hooping procedure and you how to properly B hoop stretchy fabrics, possibly the direction that you’ll stitch your design. including how to stabilize them for shift-free DEBORAH JONES has been involved in the computerized embroidery embroidery. industry for the last 30 years. Recently, Jones has devoted much of her time to developing educational videos for embroiderers and writing the book, Machine Embroidery on Difficult Materials. Contact: djones@ embroiderycoach.com. Digitizing Pointers The underlay on patterns for stretch fabrics should tack the face fabric to the stabilizer securely to help avoid shifting. When you’re placing a large design on a knit fabric, consider slightly lengthening fill stitches for softer, loftier embroidery. Avoid overly long satin stitches, which can cause a soft knit to be pulled inward. STEP 1 Test for stretch. To test a garment for stretch, gently pull on the fabric to see if it gives most in the horizontal or vertical direction. The majority of sportswear garments, such as golf shirts and sweatshirts, stretch most horizontally. At least one well-known supplier manufacturers a sweatshirt that’s cut on the cross-grain of the fabric, placing the stretch in the opposite direction. These sweatshirts have a knit gusset inset on each side to accommodate the need for additional stretch. These shirts were made this way to reduce the lengthwise shrinkage factor. So, always test first if you haven’t previously worked with a particular stretch garment type. If one direction is particularly stretchy, consider hooping or rotat- ing the design so that the predomi- nant fill stitches stitch in the oppo- site direction. In other words, avoid having the fill stitches running in the same direction as the stretch, which could cause pooching. Of course, your underlay should also tack the stretch fabric to the stable base of stabilizer to help minimize this tendency. 34 FEBRUARY 2010 --- stitches.com STEP 2 Get ready to hoop. When hooping standard stretch fabrics, I pull gently in the direction of the least stretch, which is generally the vertical direc- tion (see Figure 1). This puts a slight tension on the fabric, which helps prevent the stretchy fabric from being pushed around by the presser foot. It’s imperative that you hoop a continuous piece of stabilizer completely in the hoop, extending from all edges. Avoid placing two pieces of stabilizer in the hoop to cover the needed area, although two pieces of stabilizer may be layered (see Figure 2). Proper support for an unstable fabric depends on the stabilizer being hooped securely and completely. If it isn’t, you’ll likely experience undesirable stitching, including outlines that are off-track and fabric that bubbles. If it helps, imagine that you’re actually embroidering the stabilizer and that the top fabric is just in the way. ▲ Figure 1. The vertical direction usually offers the least amount of stretch on knit garments. ▲ Figure 2. Don’t place two pieces of stabilizer in the hoop to cover the needed area. See the complete selection of Value Line styles in the 2010 Outdoor Cap Outdoor Cap Introduces Our “Value” Cap Line Headwear catalog! Value = Quality Product, Competitive Price, Great Service BCT-600 & BCT-662 6 Panel, Brushed Cotton Twill BCT-600 Structured Pre-curved Visor Mid to Low Profile Adjustable Hook/Loop Tape Closure Closure Matches Crown One Size Fits Most BCT-600 Available Colors: Black, Dk.Green, Khaki, Loden, Navy, Putty, Red, Royal, Khaki/Black, Khaki/Dk.Green, Khaki/Navy Circle 36 on Free Info Card or visit www.stitches.com/freeinfo Info Card 36 on Free Circle BCT-662 Available Colors: Black, Burgundy, Dk.Green, Khaki, Loden, Navy, Putty, Red, Royal, White, Khaki/Black, Khaki/Dk.Green, Khaki/Navy BCT-662 Unstructured Visit us at: Low Profile ISS Long Beach Booth #2018 ASI Dallas Booth #514 P: 800.826.6047 • F: 800.200.0329 • [email protected] • WWW.OUTDOORCAP.COM stitches.com --- FEBRUARY 2010 35 01.08.2010 10:00 technically speaking STEP 3 It’s time to stabilize. You should almost always use a cutaway stabilizer with stretch fabrics. Rare excep- tions could include a light stitch count on a smooth knit that has substantial body, such as a sweatshirt. If you choose to embroider a sweatshirt with a cutaway, select one that has a soft, rather than crisp, hand. A soft tearaway variety won’t perforate as completely as a more paper-like crisp tearaway. Many stretchy fabrics are lightweight and most have a sup- ple hand. While a heavy cutaway stabilizer will likely support the embroidery, it’ll detract from the qualities that make knits soft and comfortable to wear. For this reason, I prefer to use a no-show mesh stabilizer variety, sometimes called Polymesh, for most of my knit embroidery. One exception is when I embroider on bulky knits. Bulky knits have a tendency to allow the stabilizer to show through the knit. In this instance, I like to use matching polyester organza. ▲ Figure 3. Polyester organza is soft and stable, and show-through isn’t A favorite of old-time manual machine embroidery artists, this noticeable because of its matching color. material is very soft yet stable and any show-through isn’t noticeable because of its matching color (see Figure 3). I keep It can be helpful even on lightweight knits, such as the popular several basic colors on hand. tissue knits. With textured knits, the topping creates a smooth I use water-soluble topping with many types of stretchy fabrics. stitching surface, helping to achieve clear lettering and detail. When used in combination with lightweight knits, the topping helps avoid the fabric being pushed around during the stitching process. Circle 12 on Free Info Card or visit www.stitches.com/freeinfo Info Card 12 on Free Circle The topping can also avoid hoop marks on delicate knits. When hooping a delicate knit, avoid pulling on the fabric after it’s in the hoop because holes can appear easily in lightweight knit fabrics. Consider wrapping the hoop or using a tissue-paper buffer. This is helpful to avoid hoop marks on dark-colored knits and knits with a distressed finish. The majority of sportswear garments, such as golf shirts and sweatshirts, stretch most horizontally. STEP 4 Set your embroidery speed. Your stitching speed should be kept to a reasonable level when stitch- ing on stretchy fabrics. The fabric needs time to recover from the last needle penetration before the next one is applied. You might find that you can stitch faster on large fill-stitched areas, but get better result with a lower speed on satin stitches and outlines. 36 FEBRUARY 2010 --- stitches.com 01.11.2010 11:14 SWAtcH WAtcH: Eucalyptus STEP 5 Choose your needle. Use a ballpoint needle with stretchy fabrics to avoid Eucalyptus is a hot new neutral color in cutting the yarn and destroying the interlocking structure of the knit. knits for 2010 that keeps cool as a fashion- Keep in mind that the size of the ballpoint is designed to correlate to the size of the forward and environmentally friendly color yarn that it’s pushing aside. For this reason, when you’re embroidering stretchy fab- trend. A little bit of rics made with bulky yarn, green meets a touch you may consider using a of gray and just medium ballpoint, often a hint of khaki to designated by the letters create eucalyptus, “SUK” (see Figure 4). a color that evokes Light Ballpoint the eco-friendly movement with its earthy, leafy tones and excels in practicality as a neutral that can be ▲ Figure 4. Consider using paired with any other shade for a corporate Medium Ballpoint a medium ballpoint when or casual look. Decorators can emulate the you’re embroidering stretchy popularity of this signature shade with khaki, fabrics made with bulky yarn. olive or other muted, neutral green-brown shades. Circle 67 on Free Info Card or visit www.stitches.com/freeinfo Info Card 67 on Free Circle stitches.com --- FEBRUARY 2010 37.
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